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Date: Sat, 1 Aug 1998 06:10:01 -0400
From: John S Gwynne <jsg@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  1 12:18:30 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Bench ecms
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 1998 12:21:13 -0400
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OK this morning applied P/N Switch signal, and VSS, and things work
fine with the 747ecm..  Flipped connectors for the 165, and installed
the ASBX  memcal.  LEDs flickering about what I'd expect, but only
get error message "No DATA".    When I wired up the ALDL, I
included the "M" serial data "jumper".  The scanner I'm using is 
from 1986, so it "Should? Work? RIGHT?"........ The ASBX is the
Holden 808 memcal that is 160 baud, same as the 747 right?.
Or does it use the 8192 in a 1227165?.

The "M" terminal is below the "A", right?....

Anybody have a clue why when I set all the malfunction flags to 0,
the scanner can't see the engine rpm?.

PS I also tried entering things as a 85 S-10 4 cyl TBI which was also
a 1227165 application.

What am I doing wrong??????.......

Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  1 12:33:57 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Holden 808 ??s
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 1998 12:36:57 -0400
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When shorting the two pins together for getting any trouble codes
with a Holden 808 (v-8), key on engine off, should you have a code
22?.   
    Does anyone know for sure if the trouble codes are the same,
between the 808+165 ?.

Cheers
Bruce


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From: "Mark Romans" <romans@pacbell.net>
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Subject: Re: Bench ecms
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 09:46:12 -0700
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Bruce:   808's don't do data,  remember, no data for the 808,  use a memcal
from an 87-89 vette.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Saturday, August 01, 1998 9:29 AM
Subject: Bench ecms


>OK this morning applied P/N Switch signal, and VSS, and things work
>fine with the 747ecm..  Flipped connectors for the 165, and installed
>the ASBX  memcal.  LEDs flickering about what I'd expect, but only
>get error message "No DATA".    When I wired up the ALDL, I
>included the "M" serial data "jumper".  The scanner I'm using is
>from 1986, so it "Should? Work? RIGHT?"........ The ASBX is the
>Holden 808 memcal that is 160 baud, same as the 747 right?.
>Or does it use the 8192 in a 1227165?.
>
>The "M" terminal is below the "A", right?....
>
>Anybody have a clue why when I set all the malfunction flags to 0,
>the scanner can't see the engine rpm?.
>
>PS I also tried entering things as a 85 S-10 4 cyl TBI which was also
>a 1227165 application.
>
>What am I doing wrong??????.......
>
>Cheers
>Bruce
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  1 21:00:42 1998
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Date: Fri, 31 Jul 1998 19:31:19 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Vance Rose <javer96@snowcrest.net>
Subject: 165 question
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Hi All	

	In 165 ecm noticed that there were two set of temps settings for cooling
fan.  Pin C1 controls cooling fan. Wondered if there was a second output
pin for fan control? Wanted to have two fans in pu that came on at
different temps. Have some minor drivabilty problems in really hot weather
- hope to have ecm do controlling of fans instead of wiring to have come
with eng running.


TIA Vance

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  1 21:03:32 1998
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Subject: Re: Motronic 1.0.  Volumetric meter-air mass meter conversion
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> From:          Luquette@aol.com
> Date:          Thu, 30 Jul 1998 23:35:58 EDT
> To:            DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:       Motronic 1.0.  Volumetric meter-air mass meter conversion
> Reply-to:      diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

> Does anyone have experience/information on doing an air mass meter retro fit
> on a Motronic 1.0 system?  The car is a 1985 BMW 745 with the clunky flapper
> plate style volumetric meter.  I'm doing some upgrades and want to try to get
> more accurate air flow readings.  
> Also, I spoke to Jim C about the ECU in this car some time ago.  Is he still
> on this Digest?  I still have those Motronic papers from SAE.
> THe M1.0 system in this car is different from the system in the regular BMWs
> of the same time.  The 745i was a factory turbo car (3.5L I-6 with K-27 turbo)
> and had a couple extra chips on the board and for this fact, I was told it
> would be close to impossible to decode.  Any changes?
> 
You might try some type of intercept system.  I made one for L-jet 
system to modify airflow signal based on O2 sensor.  I put 256K of
EEPROM on it, but have not worked on it in a while to adapt to a user
programable performance device.
I also have collection of SAE papers, it would be nice to archive the
numbers, titles and brief abstract of some of the more uefull 
classics.
Alex  

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  1 21:03:42 1998
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Subject: Re: Diacom plus on Pentium laptops
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> Date:          Wed, 29 Jul 1998 09:04:09 -0400
> From:          Ken Kelly <kenkelly@lucent.com>
> Organization:  Lucent Technologies
> To:            diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:       Re: Diacom plus on Pentium laptops
> Reply-to:      diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

> TBK,
>  
>  I believe you are correct on the 4 interfaces that Rinda is
>  compatible with, but the Diacom cable would have to have a
>  -10 to -12 volt supply to be able to create an RS-232
>  signal. The Maxim chips now make that easy, but I don't
>  think they were available when Rinda started the Diacom. Do
>  you really think the Rinda cable attempts to actively shift
>  levels? I thought the circuitry just shifted the pinouts
>  around for the various standards.
>                  Ken
>  
It is a well known undocumented hacker fact that rs232 chips 
will recieve the rs232 negative high level as anything under about
positive 1 V  and rs232 low over about 2.5 V, thus you do
not need a negative supply.  You would need a inverter to recognize
the start and stop bits.  Most people do not recommend useing over
10 feet, I have transmitted over 100ft for several days at 9600 baud 
in a automotive test envirnoment.
Last year I was looking at some Dodge OBD2 data at 8192 baud using
this method, also developed scan tool for OBD2 ISO9141 10400 baud
using rs232 inverted logic. 
It is a good idea to buffer the parallel port inputs.
You might search Jan Axelson for parallel port interfacing and 
current specs.
alex

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  1 21:04:04 1998
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> Date:          Tue, 28 Jul 1998 18:07:57 +0000
> From:          Ron Tyler <dcmckenna@worldnet.att.net>
> Organization:  T. Engineering
> To:            DIY_EFI <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Subject:       Occilliscope
> Reply-to:      diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

> Hey All,
> 
>     Does anybody know where I could get a cheap (read simple) used scope
> that'd work well for reading a GM cam angle sensor (0-5v)
> 
I lent out my $ 100 dollaris Rad Shack scope probe to a co-hurt, to 
do this, but he returned it saying he needed 2 chan. to see the 
relation with RPM sensor.
alex 

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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 165 question
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 1998 22:30:16 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Vance Rose <javer96@snowcrest.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Saturday, August 01, 1998 9:23 PM
Subject: 165 question


>Hi All 
>
> In 165 ecm noticed that there were two set of temps settings for cooling
>fan.  Pin C1 controls cooling fan. Wondered if there was a second output
>pin for fan control? 

I show a D11 as Fan Press A/C.  No where do I see a second 
reference to a 2nd cooling fan.   Let, me know if that works,please
Cheers
Bruce

Wanted to have two fans in pu that came on at
>different temps. Have some minor drivabilty problems in really hot weather
>- hope to have ecm do controlling of fans instead of wiring to have come
>with eng running.
>
>
>TIA Vance
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  1 22:46:34 1998
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Date: Sat, 01 Aug 1998 22:46:18 -0400
From: mrvette <mrvette@bellsouth.net>
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the second cooling fan, if so equipped is usually controlled by a second
straight mechanical switch/temp sensor direct wired into the cyl head....turned
on at ~230 degrees...GENE

Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vance Rose <javer96@snowcrest.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Saturday, August 01, 1998 9:23 PM
> Subject: 165 question
> 
> >Hi All
> >
> > In 165 ecm noticed that there were two set of temps settings for cooling
> >fan.  Pin C1 controls cooling fan. Wondered if there was a second output
> >pin for fan control?
> 
> I show a D11 as Fan Press A/C.  No where do I see a second
> reference to a 2nd cooling fan.   Let, me know if that works,please
> Cheers
> Bruce
> 
> Wanted to have two fans in pu that came on at
> >different temps. Have some minor drivabilty problems in really hot weather
> >- hope to have ecm do controlling of fans instead of wiring to have come
> >with eng running.
> >
> >
> >TIA Vance
> >

-- 


                                ____________
Fun under the sun in          //~~~~~~~~~~~~\\
Jacksonville, Fl.  :-)))     //______________\\
                       /~~~---~   |      |   ~---~~~\
                      /|    /______\____/______\    |\
                    (( | /      |          |      \ | ))   
     Mako 'Vettes    | \============================/ |   
 Shift better with   |\ \\[  ]    |mrvette|   [  ]// /|
     Automatics      | \/+========================+\/ |
                     |~==============================~|
                     |_____|                    |_____|
-------------------------------------------------------------------

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  1 23:10:18 1998
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Date: Sat, 1 Aug 1998 23:09:20 EDT
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Tom,

I'm just picking up on this conversation but can offfer the following
guidance.  
Virtually all industrial instrumentation will operate on 12 Vdc. Many just
barely.  For the  most part if you use a 250 ohm resistor in series with the
unit connected to 12Vdc the unit will perform the function of restricting the
current between  4 and 20 mA.  This will provide the  range of 1- 5 Vdc drop
across the resistor representing 0-100 % of the calibrated range of the
instrument.  Rather than buying a new instrument there are a number of
companies that offer refurbished instruments for reasonable costs.  A new one
for a 30 "WC differential pressure transmitter costs around $1100.  
In terms of the flow; volumetric flow is a function of the square root of the
pressure drop across any known restriction.  Air temperature and static
pressure can have dramatic effects on the readings.  Formulas are readily
available from a number of sources.  Check for Miller, Shinsky or any Crane
catalog.
In past experimentation building a flow bench to port heads I used an orfice
of a known  bore versus pipe i.d. (beta) (try to keep this ratio around 70% as
the pressure recovery after the orfice drops of quite quickly when you drop
below 70%) and used the air temp, statiic pressure and pressure drop accross
the orfice to calculate flow.  It works well and is relatively simple to
construct using a powerful shop vac, orfice, temp gauge, and two  inclined
manometers (one static pressure and one pressure drop accross the orfice.    

Food for thought, 
AJL



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  1 23:30:26 1998
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> Date:          Wed, 29 Jul 1998 11:01:26 -0700 (PDT)
> From:          andy quaas <realsquash@yahoo.com>
> Subject:       Re: Diacom Cable 
> To:            diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Reply-to:      diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

A written desription in ..../crack.html said you need the
other half of the cable.(WARNING: Offensive language used)
alex p.
 
> I wired up that exact diagram and found it to not work.  The laptop
> detects the interface, but that's as far as i ever got with that
> design.  I am trying to communicate with my 7730 ecm.  I fooled with
> it a bit last night and gave up.  
> 
> 
> 
> ---Raymond Brantley <gt40@home.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hey guys I found this while surfing around. Don't know if it will
> answer any
> > questions....
> > http://www.coil.com/~apollo/diacom/schem1.jpg
> > 
> > 
> > Ray
> > 
> > 
> 
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
> 
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  1 23:30:21 1998
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> From:          "alex nicu" <nicualex@hotmail.com>
> To:            diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:       web page
> Date:          Thu, 30 Jul 1998 23:53:57 PDT
> Reply-to:      diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

> http://home.onestop.net/nalex

Hello Romania.  What type of micro do you use for fuel control?
This first time I saw schematic of a O2 indicator, also being more 
microprocessor oriented it seems feasible to use a PIC 74 and drive 
32 Led's. so the schematic will down load faster.
I work, thou not often, on the Romanian Aro Truck that is trying to 
be certified here for sale.
Alex P.    

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  1 23:30:43 1998
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Ron 

Check with local ham radio operators about their next swap meet or if 
you have ham repeaters in the area they often have a swap net.  In 
the Phx area its every mon. pm and covers most of arizona and a lot 
of southern ca.

Bob McKnight
PhxAZ


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  2 00:57:01 1998
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Date: Sun, 02 Aug 1998 14:56:42 +1000
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From: Kristofer Allan <allankf@ruralnet.net.au>
Subject: Injectors
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Hi all,
	  Can someone help me to work out what injectors I have bought to suit my
350 TPI motor.  They will fit but I got them secondhand and have been told
that they came off a car that was sold here in Australia.  Can anyone tell
me what they are off and most importantly, what size they are?  The number
on the side reads, 280 150 775,  There is a bosch symbol on the side.  I
found a site that lists a lot of bosch injectors but it didnt list the ones
I have.
		Thanks in advance,  Kris Allan.


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  2 02:12:24 1998
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Kristofer Allan wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
>           Can someone help me to work out what injectors I have bought to suit my
> 350 TPI motor.  They will fit but I got them secondhand and have been told
> that they came off a car that was sold here in Australia.  Can anyone tell
> me what they are off and most importantly, what size they are?  The number
> on the side reads, 280 150 775,  There is a bosch symbol on the side.  I
> found a site that lists a lot of bosch injectors but it didnt list the ones
> I have.
>                 Thanks in advance,  Kris Allan.

Kristofer,
here's a couple of pages I found. They don't have your injectors listed
but it might be worth a call.

http://www.fuelinjection.com/portinj.htm
http://www.tpis.com/pg5-8.html

 good luck,
  Walter

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  2 02:12:24 1998
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Kristofer Allan wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
>           Can someone help me to work out what injectors I have bought to suit my
> 350 TPI motor.  They will fit but I got them secondhand and have been told
> that they came off a car that was sold here in Australia.  Can anyone tell
> me what they are off and most importantly, what size they are?  The number
> on the side reads, 280 150 775,  There is a bosch symbol on the side.  I
> found a site that lists a lot of bosch injectors but it didnt list the ones
> I have.
>                 Thanks in advance,  Kris Allan.

Kristofer,
here's a couple of pages I found. They don't have your injectors listed
but it might be worth a call.

http://www.fuelinjection.com/portinj.htm
http://www.tpis.com/pg5-8.html

 good luck,
  Walter

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  2 10:10:06 1998
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unsuscribe diy-efi
unsuscribe efi332
unsuscribe diy_efi


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  2 20:34:37 1998
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Date: Sun, 02 Aug 1998 17:33:53 -0700
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At 10:30 PM 8/1/98 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Vance Rose <javer96@snowcrest.net>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Saturday, August 01, 1998 9:23 PM
>Subject: 165 question
>
>
>>Hi All 
>>
>> In 165 ecm noticed that there were two set of temps settings for cooling
>>fan.  Pin C1 controls cooling fan. Wondered if there was a second output
>>pin for fan control? 
>
>I show a D11 as Fan Press A/C.  No where do I see a second 
>reference to a 2nd cooling fan.   Let, me know if that works,please
>Cheers
>Bruce
>
>Wanted to have two fans in pu that came on at
>>different temps. Have some minor drivabilty problems in really hot weather
>>- hope to have ecm do controlling of fans instead of wiring to have come
>>with eng running.
>>
>>
>>TIA Vance
>>
>
>Hi Bruce


	Thanks for reply - D11 is for pressure switch that senses high pressure in
A/C. When pressure reaches 160 psi - coolant fan comes on no matter what
temp. Will wire up fan to come on manually. Just hoping.

Thanks Vance

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  2 21:14:13 1998
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Date: Sun, 02 Aug 1998 20:08:06 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Joe Boucher <jboucher@ctelcom.net>
Subject: 700R4 rebuild manual?
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I've been gone for awhile.  Was the rebuild manual for the 700R4 ever
posted to the FTP site?


Joe Boucher
'70 RS/SS Camaro  '81 TBI Suburban

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  2 21:59:21 1998
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Not yet.  I'm still working on a worthy manual.  It's great right now but
I don't want it to be judged as a final product.  I'm still working on
getting the different 700R4's up to top stocker specs then up to Race /
Heavy Duty specs.  I'm still trying to get time.  Sorry I've been way
busy but I need to be getting with it soon.

Brian Hartman

Joe Boucher wrote:

> I've been gone for awhile.  Was the rebuild manual for the 700R4 ever
> posted to the FTP site?
>
> Joe Boucher
> '70 RS/SS Camaro  '81 TBI Suburban




From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  2 22:05:16 1998
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In a message someone wrote:

>>Wanted to have two fans in pu that came on at
>>>different temps. Have some minor drivabilty problems in really hot weather
>>>- hope to have ecm do controlling of fans instead of wiring to have come
>>>with eng running.
>>>

It dosn't have to that complicated (searching for a ecm output and table ).
Look in a auto parts catalog for a water temp switch used for a hot light.
Many have a small screw covered by paint or sealer. Most of the older Ford
sensors have a threaded stud with a flat on one side.

Clean off the paint, then turn the screw two turns clockwise. Most engines
have extra pluged holes in the intake or cylinder heads. Connect the switch to
the relay for the second fan.  Run the engine and adjust the screw to the temp
you desire.

Simple, easy and cheap. 

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  2 23:03:49 1998
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Hi All

I am interested in replacing a Bosch style Vane  air flow meter (MAF) with a
MAP sencor and a MAT sencor. This will allow me to remove the crappy
standard air duct and box and install a better air filter and cold air
intake. The car is using a BOSCH LE jettronic ECU so I will have to do a few
tricks with the voltage to get it right.

Has anyone done this. If so I would be interested to talk top them.


Regards 

Stuart Bunning



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  2 23:09:16 1998
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In a message dated 98-08-02 22:09:17 EDT, you write:

<< Not yet.  I'm still working on a worthy manual.  It's great right now but
 I don't want it to be judged as a final product.  I'm still working on
 getting the different 700R4's up to top stocker specs then up to Race /
 Heavy Duty specs.  I'm still trying to get time.  Sorry I've been way
 busy but I need to be getting with it soon. >>
 

 Please post when that manual is up I would love to see it

Al

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 01:58:34 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Drew Skinner <drews@texas.net>
Subject: Re: Diacom Cable 
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At 11:01 AM 7/29/98 -0700, you wrote:
>I wired up that exact diagram and found it to not work.  The laptop
>detects the interface, but that's as far as i ever got with that
>design.  I am trying to communicate with my 7730 ecm.  I fooled with
>it a bit last night and gave up.  

Hmmm, I wired up the schematic on Sean's website and I'm having the same
problems. Mainly, it lists pinouts on the ALDL that aren't on my 165 ALDL.
I just haven't had enough time to research the proper substitutes for my
application. It almost works, diacom recognizes it and the SES light
flashes quickly(open loop) but doesn't quite link up. I really hate to
waste all that time I spent soldering. :-/


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 03:36:36 1998
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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 08:39:28 +0100
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Some manufacturers use this system I know  the UK  Rover use it in the higher
performance turbo and V6 models in the 800 range. If you want to take the
electronic route  you could do it several ways using a temperature sensor  (such
as  a thermistor or LM335 sensor) connected to a simple voltage comparator (you
would also need some kind of timer bassed on 555 chip)   or  a better one chip
solution in the form of the Analog Devices  TMP12FP chip  which is designed for
use in Pentium PC and actually  measures airflow and temperature.

Andy MacFadyen

AL8001@aol.com wrote:

> In a message someone wrote:
>
> >>Wanted to have two fans in pu that came on at
> >>>different temps. Have some minor drivabilty problems in really hot weather
> >>>- hope to have ecm do controlling of fans instead of wiring to have come
> >>>with eng running.
> >>>
>
> It dosn't have to that complicated (searching for a ecm output and table ).
> Look in a auto parts catalog for a water temp switch used for a hot light.
> Many have a small screw covered by paint or sealer. Most of the older Ford
> sensors have a threaded stud with a flat on one side.
>
> Clean off the paint, then turn the screw two turns clockwise. Most engines
> have extra pluged holes in the intake or cylinder heads. Connect the switch to
> the relay for the second fan.  Run the engine and adjust the screw to the temp
> you desire.
>
> Simple, easy and cheap.




From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 04:31:32 1998
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From: "Matt Tomlins" <mattpw@ozemail.com.au>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 808 Fault Codes
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 18:27:20 +1000
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Bruce
The fault code 22 you saw was TPS voltage too low.
My manual says that this code is set if TPS voltage falls below 0.15V

Here is a list of all 808 Fault codes.

12    System Functioning OK
13    Oxygen sensor Open Circuit
14    CTS low ( <0.7V)
15    CTS High (>4.65)
21    TPS High (>2.5V and MAP <60kPa fot 2 secs)
22    TPS Low (<0.15V)
23    MAT High (>4.9V)
24    VSS Error
25    MAT Low (<0.3V)
33    MAP High 
34    MAP Low
41    No Refrence Pulse
42    EST Failure
43    Knock Sensor open or shorted
44    Oxygen sensor low (<0.25V, >20Sec)
45    Oxygen sensor high (>0.45V, >20Sec)
51    MEMCAL Error
55    A to D error (>5.5V)

Hope that this helps
Cheers
Matt





From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 05:09:42 1998
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Hi,
Anyone know how to make an astra GTE digital dash rev counter read 6
cylinders?

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 06:04:10 1998
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> When shorting the two pins together for getting any trouble codes
> with a Holden 808 (v-8), key on engine off, should you have a code
> 22?.
>     Does anyone know for sure if the trouble codes are the same,
> between the 808+165 ?.
> 
> Cheers
> Bruce


with no errors only a code 12 should be present

Juz!

do you have diacom for the gmh vehicles???

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 07:48:06 1998
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To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 808 Fault Codes
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 07:50:46 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Tomlins <mattpw@ozemail.com.au>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, August 03, 1998 4:58 AM
Subject: 808 Fault Codes


Thanks
Bruce

>
>Bruce
>The fault code 22 you saw was TPS voltage too low.
>My manual says that this code is set if TPS voltage falls below 0.15V
>
>Here is a list of all 808 Fault codes.
>
>12    System Functioning OK
>13    Oxygen sensor Open Circuit
>14    CTS low ( <0.7V)
>15    CTS High (>4.65)
>21    TPS High (>2.5V and MAP <60kPa fot 2 secs)
>22    TPS Low (<0.15V)
>23    MAT High (>4.9V)
>24    VSS Error
>25    MAT Low (<0.3V)
>33    MAP High 
>34    MAP Low
>41    No Refrence Pulse
>42    EST Failure
>43    Knock Sensor open or shorted
>44    Oxygen sensor low (<0.25V, >20Sec)
>45    Oxygen sensor high (>0.45V, >20Sec)
>51    MEMCAL Error
>55    A to D error (>5.5V)
>
>Hope that this helps
>Cheers
>Matt
>
>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 08:12:21 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Pulldown resistors for TPS MAP
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 08:15:28 -0400
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Now, that we know there is pull down resistors, what do I do with
the 5K pots that I've been using for TPS and MAP signal inputs?.
I'm over my head here so I need a item by item explaination.
ie., a lot more specific than saying, buffing the output with an op-amp.
Thanks
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 08:53:05 1998
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From: Terry <thartman@gte.net>
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Subject: Re: 808 Fault Codes
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Matt Tomlins wrote:

> Here is a list of all 808 Fault codes.
> 
> 12    System Functioning OK
> 13    Oxygen sensor Open Circuit
> 14    CTS low ( <0.7V)
> 15    CTS High (>4.65)
> 21    TPS High (>2.5V and MAP <60kPa fot 2 secs)
> 22    TPS Low (<0.15V)
> 23    MAT High (>4.9V)
> 24    VSS Error
> 25    MAT Low (<0.3V)
> 33    MAP High
> 34    MAP Low
> 41    No Refrence Pulse
> 42    EST Failure
> 43    Knock Sensor open or shorted
> 44    Oxygen sensor low (<0.25V, >20Sec)
> 45    Oxygen sensor high (>0.45V, >20Sec)
> 51    MEMCAL Error
> 55    A to D error (>5.5V)


So does the 808 NOT have any EGR codes?  Does Oz require some sort of
emissions standards conformance?

thanks,

T.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 10:52:53 1998
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Subject: Re: Pulldown resistors for TPS MAP
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What signals and signal range do these inputs require? I don't
know diddley about these ECUs but am interested. Probably can
tell you how to fake em once I know what's required... Promise
not to buff anything.

Regards, Jack

Bruce Plecan wrote:
> Now, that we know there is pull down resistors, what do I do with
> the 5K pots that I've been using for TPS and MAP signal inputs?.
> I'm over my head here so I need a item by item explaination.
> ie., a lot more specific than saying, buffing the output with an op-amp.


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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Pulldown resistors for TPS MAP
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-----Original Message-----
From: goflo@pacbell.net <goflo@pacbell.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, August 03, 1998 11:31 AM
Subject: Re: Pulldown resistors for TPS MAP


>What signals and signal range do these inputs require? I don't
>know diddley about these ECUs but am interested. Probably can
>tell you how to fake em once I know what's required... Promise
>not to buff anything.

The ecm supplies a 5v signal to the TPS, and MAP.  The MAP is
a strain guage type device with a couple transistors.  What is inside
a TPS, I don't know.  The TPS needs to return a signal from .5v to
4.9v (.5 being idle). to the ecm.  The map at engine off is like
4.9, idle 2.v ish..
Appreciate a hand
Bruce
>
>Regards, Jack
>
>Bruce Plecan wrote:
>> Now, that we know there is pull down resistors, what do I do with
>> the 5K pots that I've been using for TPS and MAP signal inputs?.
>> I'm over my head here so I need a item by item explaination.
>> ie., a lot more specific than saying, buffing the output with an op-amp.
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 13:49:37 1998
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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 13:59:11 -0400
From: Jason Weir <jweir@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Timing in ref to TDC
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I read a thread a while ago that talked about timing in reference to TDC
when using the 747.  As I recall the 5.7 V8 had a 6 degree advance at
the distributor while the 4.3 was timed at 0 at the distributor.  My
question is, If I timed the motor at 0 degrees and then added the extra
6 degrees to every value in the timing table, what will be the
difference.  I understand that the ECM will still think that there is 6
degrees advance at the dist but where will I see this.. what will it
affect.  The reason I ask, is it would be simpler for me to have all the
advance in one place, (the timing table) rather than some here and some
there...Thanks again.... JW

--
Jason Weir
88 Wrangler - 258 Chevy TBI
Fayetteville, North Carolina
http://home.att.net/~jweir
mailto:jweir@worldnet.att.net



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 14:18:11 1998
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From: T Hergen <thergen@svn.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Pulldown resistors for TPS MAP
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I haven't tested the following on an ecm.  It's based on
input from other list members.  Comments, corrections,
etc. invited.
 
Another member (Peter) has indicated the a number of gm ecms
switch in different pullups on the temperature sensor(s).
The advantage of this is to give the ecm better temperature
measuring resolution over a particular temperature range.
Compare this to switching to the 2 volt scale on your
digital multimeter when trying to measure the O2 sensor
voltage (wouldn't make sense use the 200 volt scale).
 
The stock temperature sensor is a two wire device where
one end is connected to ground and the other to the ecm
temperature input.
 
(Use fixed width font to view)
 
Stock temp sensor:
 
     ----- to ecm CTS or MAT input
     |
     /
     \
     /  resistance varies with  temperature
     \
     /
     \
     |
     |
 gnd--
 
 
How to hook up a temperature sensor 'simulator'
 
 
  nc--  (nc = not connected)
     |
     /
     \
     /<---- to ecm CTS or MAT input
  ?k \
     /
     \
     |
     |
 gnd--
 
The ecm will switch in a different pullup when it determines
that the temperature has entered a certain range.  This
'switch point' will correspond to a particular resistance
of the temperature sensor (there's probably some hysteresis
built into the switching algorithum).  After the switch
happens, the voltage across the sensor (or pot) changes.
Even though the voltage has changed, the resistance hasn't
and this still corresponds to the same temperature as
before the switch.

The value of the resistance range of the pot should be
large enough to cover the resistance range of the
sensor it is replacing.  I don't have a table for the
CTS or MAT sensor available at the moment, anyone want
to help with this?
 
The problem with wiring CTS/MAT like a TPS is that the
voltage before and after the switch will not change the
same way as it would if only two terminals of the pot
were used.
 
 +5---
     |    DON'T USE THIS!
     /
     \
     /<---- to ecm CTS or MAT input
  5k \
     /
     \
     |
     |
 gnd--
 
The Thevenin equivalent of the TPS style hookup is a
single resistor connected to some voltage between +5 and
ground which won't give the same results as a resistor
to ground.  Math left to the user:)
 
 
Tom


On Mon, 3 Aug 1998, Bruce Plecan wrote:

> Now, that we know there is pull down resistors, what do I do with
> the 5K pots that I've been using for TPS and MAP signal inputs?.
> I'm over my head here so I need a item by item explaination.
> ie., a lot more specific than saying, buffing the output with an op-amp.
> Thanks
> Bruce
> 


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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Timing in ref to TDC
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 14:39:53 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Weir <jweir@worldnet.att.net>
To: DIY_EFI <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, August 03, 1998 2:30 PM
Subject: Timing in ref to TDC


>I read a thread a while ago that talked about timing in reference to TDC
>when using the 747.  As I recall the 5.7 V8 had a 6 degree advance at
>the distributor while the 4.3 was timed at 0 at the distributor.  

snip

  The reason I ask, is it would be simpler for me to have all the
>advance in one place, (the timing table) rather than some here and some
>there...

What about cranking?, what about limp home mode?.  what about 
we don't even know of yet?
  Try small steps, then larger, don't try to reinvent the wheel first
outting.
Cheers
Bruce


Thanks again.... JW
>
>--
>Jason Weir
>88 Wrangler - 258 Chevy TBI
>Fayetteville, North Carolina
>http://home.att.net/~jweir
>mailto:jweir@worldnet.att.net
>
>
>


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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 13:46:32 -0500
From: Walter Petermann <corsaro@brokersys.com>
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Subject: Re: Pulldown resistors for TPS MAP
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Bruce,
what was wrong with using the pots? 
Ignore if this has been covered, just taking a few
minutes away from work (waiting for glue to dry...).

Walter

Bruce Plecan wrote:

> The ecm supplies a 5v signal to the TPS, and MAP.  The MAP is
> a strain guage type device with a couple transistors.  What is inside
> a TPS, I don't know.  The TPS needs to return a signal from .5v to
> 4.9v (.5 being idle). to the ecm.  The map at engine off is like
> 4.9, idle 2.v ish..
> Appreciate a hand
> Bruce

> >
> >Bruce Plecan wrote:
> >> Now, that we know there is pull down resistors, what do I do with
> >> the 5K pots that I've been using for TPS and MAP signal inputs?.
> >> I'm over my head here so I need a item by item explaination.
> >> ie., a lot more specific than saying, buffing the output with an op-amp.
> >
> >

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Subject: Re: Pulldown resistors for TPS MAP
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This is the most likely, and will give 0 to nearly 5V adj

        5V   ______
                   |
                   /  5K pot, linear taper 
                   \
                   /<------ Variable voltage to ECU input
                   \
                   /
                   |                   |
                   |
                 Ground

                          /*  less likely  */

5V pull-down  _____
voltage from       |                   
ECU                |
                   /  5K linear taper pot
                   \
                   /<---------/\/\/\-------- Ground
                   \            1K 
                   /            
                   |
                   |
               No connection
                 
This will give approx 1V to 5V adj. If you need less than 1V
( say .9V ) use a smaller current limiting resistor, but at 
least 500 ohms or so. This resistor prevents shorting the 5V 
input to ground at the high end of the pots travel ... If the 
ECU uses this scheme the current is probably internally limited
but we dont need to find out the hard way that it is'nt. It is
Monday, after all.

If this doesnt make sense describe the connections as fully as 
possible and we'll beat on it some more.

Regards, Jack


Bruce Plecan wrote:
> The ecm supplies a 5v signal to the TPS, and MAP.  The MAP is
> a strain guage type device with a couple transistors.  What is inside
> a TPS, I don't know.  The TPS needs to return a signal from .5v to
> 4.9v (.5 being idle). to the ecm.  The map at engine off is like
> 4.9, idle 2.v ish..
> Appreciate a hand

> >What signals and signal range do these inputs require? I don't
> >know diddley about these ECUs but am interested. Probably can
> >tell you how to fake em once I know what's required... Promise
> >not to buff anything.


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 15:43:47 1998
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From: "Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com>
To: "'DIY-EFI'" <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Audi Motronic Info
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 12:47:25 -0700 
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I recently purchased a 1991 Audi Quattro with a 32 valve 3.6 liter V8.  This
car has a Motronic control box ... I was wondering if there was anyone on
the list that might have information about the system; how it works, what
the timing maps control and where they're located, info about differences
between the US and European versions of the engine, etc ...

TIA!
Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 15:58:41 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Pulldown resistors for TPS MAP
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 16:01:36 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Walter Petermann <corsaro@brokersys.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, August 03, 1998 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: Pulldown resistors for TPS MAP


>Bruce,
>what was wrong with using the pots?
>Ignore if this has been covered, just taking a few
>minutes away from work (waiting for glue to dry...).

My concern is ruining the ecms.  Just I got a real budget, and this
could get expensive.   For the several minutes so far noting seems
wrong, but I plan I spending many long hours at this.
Cheers
Bruce
>
>Walter
>
>Bruce Plecan wrote:
>
>> The ecm supplies a 5v signal to the TPS, and MAP.  The MAP is
>> a strain guage type device with a couple transistors.  What is inside
>> a TPS, I don't know.  The TPS needs to return a signal from .5v to
>> 4.9v (.5 being idle). to the ecm.  The map at engine off is like
>> 4.9, idle 2.v ish..
>> Appreciate a hand
>> Bruce
>
>> >
>> >Bruce Plecan wrote:
>> >> Now, that we know there is pull down resistors, what do I do with
>> >> the 5K pots that I've been using for TPS and MAP signal inputs?.
>> >> I'm over my head here so I need a item by item explaination.
>> >> ie., a lot more specific than saying, buffing the output with an
op-amp.
>> >
>> >
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 16:11:34 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Pulldown resistors for TPS MAP
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-----Original Message-----
From: goflo@pacbell.net <goflo@pacbell.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, August 03, 1998 3:59 PM
Subject: Re: Pulldown resistors for TPS MAP


>This is the most likely, and will give 0 to nearly 5V adj
>
>        5V   ______
>                   |
>                   /  5K pot, linear taper 
>                   \
>                   /<------ Variable voltage to ECU input
>                   \
>                   /
>                   |                   |
>                   |
>                 Ground


This is what I have..
>
>                          /*  less likely  */
>
>5V pull-down  _____
>voltage from       |                   
>ECU                |
>                   /  5K linear taper pot
>                   \
>                   /<---------/\/\/\-------- Ground
>                   \            1K 
>                   /            
>                   |
>                   |
>               No connection

Where is the ecm connected?.  Or in this version just thru the 5K.

The Coolant temp sensor, and Intake Air Temp have two terminal
connectors, and the TPS, MAP have three terminal.  I verified that
there is 5v to them, a ground, and the sensor signal to ecm (unk)
Cheers
Bruce
>                 
>This will give approx 1V to 5V adj. If you need less than 1V
>( say .9V ) use a smaller current limiting resistor, but at 
>least 500 ohms or so. This resistor prevents shorting the 5V 
>input to ground at the high end of the pots travel ... If the 
>ECU uses this scheme the current is probably internally limited
>but we dont need to find out the hard way that it is'nt. It is
>Monday, after all.
>
>If this doesnt make sense describe the connections as fully as 
>possible and we'll beat on it some more.
>
>Regards, Jack
>



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 16:44:41 1998
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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 16:53:59 -0400
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Bruce Plecan wrote:

> What about cranking?, what about limp home mode?.  what about
> we don't even know of yet?
>   Try small steps, then larger, don't try to reinvent the wheel first

Thats what I wanted to know, thanks JW

--
Jason Weir
88 Wrangler - 258 Chevy TBI
Fayetteville, North Carolina
http://home.att.net/~jweir
mailto:jweir@worldnet.att.net



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 16:57:42 1998
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 13:57:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: T Hergen <thergen@svn.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Pulldown resistors for TPS MAP
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Here's some possible values...

Peter indicated the that some gm ecms switch in a 348 Ohm or 4 KOhm pullup
(see his 7/31/98 post).  Looking at the temp vs resistance tables for a
CTS and IAT, there is quite a range to cover.  Over 100K for very low
temps and about 177 Ohm around 100C.  The 348 Ohm resistor would likely be
switched in at the higher temps.

Given this range, a 100 KOhm log taper potentiometer would work.  Use only
two terminals, the wiper and the one that shows 100 KOhm at one end and
much less than 50 KOhm when the shaft is in the center position.

With a 100 KOhm pot it will be difficult to adjust the high temperature
end of the scale with any precision.  For this reason, it would be nice to
be able to switch in a 5 KOhm to 1 KOhm pot (again using only two
terminals) to cover this range. This "user" switching of pots is
independent of when the ecm decides to switch in a different pullup.

Adding a 100 Ohm resistor in series with the wire to the ecm temperature
input would reduce the peak current that could be drawn and reduce the
chance of damaging the ecm.

Does anyone know if the 730 or 165 ecms are ones that really do switch the
pullups?

Thanks,
Tom


On Mon, 3 Aug 1998, T Hergen wrote:

> I haven't tested the following on an ecm.  It's based on
> input from other list members.  Comments, corrections,
> etc. invited.
>  
> Another member (Peter) has indicated the a number of gm ecms
> switch in different pullups on the temperature sensor(s).
> The advantage of this is to give the ecm better temperature
> measuring resolution over a particular temperature range.
> Compare this to switching to the 2 volt scale on your
> digital multimeter when trying to measure the O2 sensor
> voltage (wouldn't make sense use the 200 volt scale).
>  
> The stock temperature sensor is a two wire device where
> one end is connected to ground and the other to the ecm
> temperature input.
>  
> (Use fixed width font to view)
>  
> Stock temp sensor:
>  
>      ----- to ecm CTS or MAT input
>      |
>      /
>      \
>      /  resistance varies with  temperature
>      \
>      /
>      \
>      |
>      |
>  gnd--
>  
>  
> How to hook up a temperature sensor 'simulator'
>  
>  
>   nc--  (nc = not connected)
>      |
>      /
>      \
>      /<---- to ecm CTS or MAT input
>   ?k \
>      /
>      \
>      |
>      |
>  gnd--
>  
> The ecm will switch in a different pullup when it determines
> that the temperature has entered a certain range.  This
> 'switch point' will correspond to a particular resistance
> of the temperature sensor (there's probably some hysteresis
> built into the switching algorithum).  After the switch
> happens, the voltage across the sensor (or pot) changes.
> Even though the voltage has changed, the resistance hasn't
> and this still corresponds to the same temperature as
> before the switch.
> 
> The value of the resistance range of the pot should be
> large enough to cover the resistance range of the
> sensor it is replacing.  I don't have a table for the
> CTS or MAT sensor available at the moment, anyone want
> to help with this?
>  
> The problem with wiring CTS/MAT like a TPS is that the
> voltage before and after the switch will not change the
> same way as it would if only two terminals of the pot
> were used.
>  
>  +5---
>      |    DON'T USE THIS!
>      /
>      \
>      /<---- to ecm CTS or MAT input
>   5k \
>      /
>      \
>      |
>      |
>  gnd--
>  
> The Thevenin equivalent of the TPS style hookup is a
> single resistor connected to some voltage between +5 and
> ground which won't give the same results as a resistor
> to ground.  Math left to the user:)
>  
>  
> Tom
> 
> 
> On Mon, 3 Aug 1998, Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> > Now, that we know there is pull down resistors, what do I do with
> > the 5K pots that I've been using for TPS and MAP signal inputs?.
> > I'm over my head here so I need a item by item explaination.
> > ie., a lot more specific than saying, buffing the output with an op-amp.
> > Thanks
> > Bruce
> > 
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 17:06:21 1998
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From: "richard vandervoort" <fastski@mailexcite.com>
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The OEMs purposely run rich at WOT because the engine
runs cooler.  Emission are not regulated and there 
isn't any effect on MPG numbers since they do not use 
WOT during fuel economy testing, so there isn't any 
penalty for running rich.  Someone has probably already answered this, but I couldn't find it in the archive.


Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
http://www.mailexcite.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 17:12:25 1998
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Subject: RE: Open loop at WOT???
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 14:11:53 -0700 
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Thanks for the response, Richard.  I suspected that that might be part of
it, but wasn't sure.  I guess the OEMs don't think their cooling systems are
up to the task at consistent WOT?  Or is it because detonation is more
likely at WOT?  

At any rate, thank you for the answer.

GR

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	richard vandervoort [SMTP:fastski@mailexcite.com]
> Sent:	Monday, August 03, 1998 2:06 PM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Cc:	george.reiswig@intel.com
> Subject:	Open loop at WOT???
> 
> The OEMs purposely run rich at WOT because the engine
> runs cooler.  Emission are not regulated and there 
> isn't any effect on MPG numbers since they do not use 
> WOT during fuel economy testing, so there isn't any 
> penalty for running rich.  Someone has probably already answered this, but
> I couldn't find it in the archive.
> 
> 
> Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
> http://www.mailexcite.com

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From: "Gregory A. Parmer" <gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Pulldown resistors for TPS MAP
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On Mon, 3 Aug 1998 goflo@pacbell.net wrote:
> This is the most likely, and will give 0 to nearly 5V adj
>         5V   ______
>                    |
>                    /  5K pot, linear taper 
>                    \
>                    /<------ Variable voltage to ECU input
>                    \
>                    /
>                    |                   |
>                    |
>                  Ground

As far as **I** know, this is just like an OEM TPS. I
did this for my MAP also. No smoke yet. As pointed
out...NOT FOR CTS...CTS doesn't need a Voltage, it 
needs a Resistance. In which case 2 leads of the pot 
will get you there. I have noticed that it doesn't
seem to be linear--now explained by the fact that
the ECM reads the resistance differently at different
temps. Thanks Peter, Tom, Walter and/or whoever else
has been repeating this...

Does anyone care if TPS and MAP have 50k or 200k 
pulldowns? Using a 5k pot makes the effect of the
pulldown very small, IMHO.  Movement of the pot is
so sensitive that a few % is the least of your
worries.

The fact that CTS doesn't change linearly has little
effect on anything either since this is a nearly constant
variable.

$0.02,
-greg                   w/ benched '7747


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 17:44:44 1998
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Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 14:44:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: T Hergen <thergen@svn.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Pulldown resistors for TPS MAP
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.3.96.980803134046.8449A-100000@svn.net>
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Of course, if I had read the subject line more carefully, I would have
realized I was off topic...

The comments I made apply to the temp sensors, not TPS and MAP...

Sorry for the confusion.

Tom

On Mon, 3 Aug 1998, T Hergen wrote:

> Here's some possible values...
> 
> Peter indicated the that some gm ecms switch in a 348 Ohm or 4 KOhm pullup
> (see his 7/31/98 post).  Looking at the temp vs resistance tables for a
> CTS and IAT, there is quite a range to cover.  Over 100K for very low
> temps and about 177 Ohm around 100C.  The 348 Ohm resistor would likely be
> switched in at the higher temps.
> 
> Given this range, a 100 KOhm log taper potentiometer would work.  Use only
> two terminals, the wiper and the one that shows 100 KOhm at one end and
> much less than 50 KOhm when the shaft is in the center position.
> 
> With a 100 KOhm pot it will be difficult to adjust the high temperature
> end of the scale with any precision.  For this reason, it would be nice to
> be able to switch in a 5 KOhm to 1 KOhm pot (again using only two
> terminals) to cover this range. This "user" switching of pots is
> independent of when the ecm decides to switch in a different pullup.
> 
> Adding a 100 Ohm resistor in series with the wire to the ecm temperature
> input would reduce the peak current that could be drawn and reduce the
> chance of damaging the ecm.
> 
> Does anyone know if the 730 or 165 ecms are ones that really do switch the
> pullups?
> 
> Thanks,
> Tom
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 17:44:45 1998
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On Mon, 3 Aug 1998, T Hergen wrote:
> Does anyone know if the 730 or 165 ecms are ones that really do switch the
> pullups?

The '7747 seems to and I thot it was the stupidest
ECM made.  :)   It doesn't need IAT...a value that
will undoubtedly make this more relavent. The log
taper pot looks like a fine idea, tho.

BTW--ya think it switches pullups or just the V?
Upping the voltage would have the same effect.

-greg



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 17:49:24 1998
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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 16:56:39 -0500
From: Walter Petermann <corsaro@brokersys.com>
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Subject: Re: Pulldown resistors for TPS MAP
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
...
> 
> >Bruce,
> >what was wrong with using the pots?
..
> My concern is ruining the ecms.  Just I got a real budget, and this
> could get expensive.   For the several minutes so far noting seems
> wrong, but I plan I spending many long hours at this.
> Cheers
> Bruce
> >

  Bruce,
  there's only a couple of ways I can think of that might damage
  the ecm (through MAP and TPS pots).
  i)  If the 5v for the pots does not come from the ecm and is
      on when the ecm power is off. 
  ii) If the 5v for the pots does come from the ecm, but is connected
      by mistake to the pot wiper. When you turn the wiper to
      ground you'd short out the ecm 5v source. ( done that! luckily
      damaged only the pot).
  
  For the ecms I work on (Lucas) there is internal protection for all 
  the above (up to a point..). I'm sure GM ecms are better.

  iii)Static discharge. Before touching any of the ecm wires touch the
      grouded ecm case. Don't know if this actually does anything, but it 
      makes me feel safer. 

  Following all the above, I've had only one mysterious 'death' in over
  600 repairs. 

    Walter

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 17:56:50 1998
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cybergate.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Open loop at WOT???
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 17:49:31 -0400
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The V-12 Mercedes engine originally ran rich for max power at WOT.  It was
recalibrated to remain in closed loop at WOT to reduce emissions.  The power
was reduced from 406 hp to 389.  Top speed was still governed to 155 mph.

I think warranty considerations cause most OEMs to set the fuel rich at WOT.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

-----Original Message-----


>Thanks for the response, Richard.  I suspected that that might be part of
>it, but wasn't sure.  I guess the OEMs don't think their cooling systems
are
>up to the task at consistent WOT?  Or is it because detonation is more
>likely at WOT?
>
>At any rate, thank you for the answer.
>
>GR
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: richard vandervoort [SMTP:fastski@mailexcite.com]
>> Sent: Monday, August 03, 1998 2:06 PM
>> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>> Cc: george.reiswig@intel.com
>> Subject: Open loop at WOT???
>>
>> The OEMs purposely run rich at WOT because the engine
>> runs cooler.  Emission are not regulated and there
>> isn't any effect on MPG numbers since they do not use
>> WOT during fuel economy testing, so there isn't any
>> penalty for running rich.  Someone has probably already answered this,
but
>> I couldn't find it in the archive.
>>
>>
>> Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
>> http://www.mailexcite.com


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 18:10:08 1998
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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 15:15:38 -0400
From: Scott Knight <sknight@mich.com>
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Hey Tom,

> I so far found that I can communicate with earlier ECM's.  However I still
> cannot talk to a 94 GM truck PCM, or my 95 OBD1 PCM in my Corvette.  I can
> talk to both PCM's while using a 486 slower computer.  Rinda tells me it's the
> clock speed of the CPU's conflicting with the communication rate of the
> ECM/PCM's.

You want wierd, I have a P5-133 Micron notebook and have tried about
everything except for the /f and cannot get it to link up to a 92 Park
Avenue, while it repeatedly links to my 95 Impala SS and 96 K3500
without problem.  96 Impala (OBDII) seems to be a problem, but my buddy
with a 486 notebook links to that car just fine.  Seems my problem is
exactly opposite of yours...I just figured it was time to sell the Park
Avenue <g>.

Later dates.
-- 
Scott Knight  mailto:sknight@mich.com
http://www.mich.com/~sknight IRC:SS396man ICQ:8353618
'95 Black Impala SS
'96 Black K3500 Extended Cab Duallie 7.4L Vortec
'94 Ducati 900SS CR


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 18:38:38 1998
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Subject: Re: Pulldown resistors for TPS MAP
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
 
> >This is the most likely, and will give 0 to nearly 5V adj
> >
> >        5V   ______
> >                   |
> >                   /  5K pot, linear taper
> >                   \
> >                   /<------ Variable voltage to ECU input
> >                   \
> >                   /
> >                   |                   |
> >                   |
> >                 Ground
> 
> This is what I have..
> >
> >                          /*  less likely  */
> >
> >5V pull-down  _____
> >voltage from       |
> >ECU                |
> >                   /  5K linear taper pot
> >                   \
> >                   /<---------/\/\/\-------- Ground
> >                   \            1K
> >                   /
> >                   |
> >                   |
> >               No connection
> 
> Where is the ecm connected?.  Or in this version just thru the 5K.

MAP connector is 5V, GND, & Signal so use schematic #1. You should be
able to ID the connections at the ECU - One will be 5V, one GND, and
the odd one out will be the signal input. Put the 5V to one side of 
the pot, GND to the other, and connect the pot wiper to the signal 
input.

My guess is TPS is the same deal.

 
> The Coolant temp sensor, and Intake Air Temp have two terminal
> connectors...

Hook one end of the pot to one & the wiper to the other. What 
Mr Hergen says about a log taper pot makes sense. If you have the
actual sensors try reading sensor resistance at ambient & at 212 F
(boiling water) with an ohmmeter. This'll give you an idea of what
range is required, independent of possible internal switching of
shunt resistances. Murphy being my constant companion, I'd freeze 
the damn sensors, measure resistance, and then put that value
resistance in series with the pot as a current-limiting precaution.
Or heat them and do likewise, if the tempco is negative. In other 
words whatever the lowest sensor resistance you can produce by
heating or cooling it. The series resistance does'nt need to be
exact.

> and the TPS, MAP have three terminal.  I verified that
> there is 5v to them, a ground, and the sensor signal to ecm (unk)
> Cheers
> Bruce
> >
> >This will give approx 1V to 5V adj. If you need less than 1V
> >( say .9V ) use a smaller current limiting resistor, but at
> >least 500 ohms or so. This resistor prevents shorting the 5V
> >input to ground at the high end of the pots travel ... If the
> >ECU uses this scheme the current is probably internally limited
> >but we dont need to find out the hard way that it is'nt. It is
> >Monday, after all.
> >
> >If this doesnt make sense describe the connections as fully as
> >possible and we'll beat on it some more.
> >
> >Regards, Jack
> >


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 19:13:25 1998
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Scott, 

That is weird, as Diacom is not even suspose to link to any OBD2 cars that I
know of.  From what Rinda tells me our software as delivered will not link to
anything newer than a 1995 OBD1 car.  That is very weird.

There are a couple other options that we can do to link up to OBD2 cars, and
that is to buy some new diagnostic software from Ease Simulation. However even
though it apears to do anything and everything we may want from this kind of
software it is very expensive when purchased with the data logging
capabilities.  For their consumer software without graphing and data logging
it goes for $300 with one (gm) interface, extra interfaces run at $200 each. 

Their pro version goes for oever $1200!, and that only comes with one
interface!  Here is their website if anyone is interested:

http://www.easesim.com:

Tom Wong

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 20:12:35 1998
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>That is weird, as Diacom is not even suspose to link to any
OBD2 cars that I
>know of.  From what Rinda tells me our software as delivered
will not link to
>anything newer than a 1995 OBD1 car.  That is very weird.


Some '96 GM's still support the old ALDL communications on
unused pins of the OBDII connector.  A subset(?) of the J1850
commands are available through these pins, although at a lower
bandwidth than the OBDII bus.  We have some info on this
available on our obdii site at www.obdii.com  - and, if I can
insert a shameless plug, a nice DOS-based OBDII GM scantool.

Some '96 f-bodies have the same dual-bus setup. ALDL appears to
have disappeared by '97.  Also, some '95's support the J1850 bus
in addition to ALDL. Sort of a transition period.

-mike
mfahrion@bb-elec.com


>There are a couple other options that we can do to link up to
OBD2 cars, and
>that is to buy some new diagnostic software from Ease
Simulation. However even
>though it apears to do anything and everything we may want from
this kind of
>software it is very expensive when purchased with the data
logging
>capabilities.  For their consumer software without graphing and
data logging
>it goes for $300 with one (gm) interface, extra interfaces run
at $200 each.
>
>Their pro version goes for oever $1200!, and that only comes
with one
>interface!  Here is their website if anyone is interested:
>
>http://www.easesim.com:
>
>Tom Wong



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 21:08:39 1998
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Date: Mon, 03 Aug 1998 20:08:57 -0500
From: Terry <thartman@gte.net>
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TWong29770@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Scott,
> 
> That is weird, as Diacom is not even suspose to link to any OBD2 cars that I
> know of.  From what Rinda tells me our software as delivered will not link to
> anything newer than a 1995 OBD1 car.  That is very weird.

Several people I know have had good luck linking with the '96 OBD2 cars by
entering the VIN as a '95 model...  This appears to only work for the '96
year models - '97+ don't work...

> 
> There are a couple other options that we can do to link up to OBD2 cars, 
> http://www.easesim.com:


There are some other lower priced alternatives too.

http://www.carcomp.com/
   and
http://www.obdii.com/autotap.html

hope this helps,

T.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 23:26:47 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Open loop at WOT???
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 20:23:22 -0700
Message-ID: <01bdbf57$3bab8b80$432b4cd1@xu300>
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I was told at WOT, Closed Loop values are used. It is pseudo-quasi open
loop.

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Reiswig, George <george.reiswig@intel.com>
To: 'richard vandervoort' <fastski@mailexcite.com>;
diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Cc: Reiswig, George <george.reiswig@intel.com>; Burleson, RandyX D
<randyx.d.burleson@intel.com>
Date: Monday, August 03, 1998 2:55 PM
Subject: RE: Open loop at WOT???


>Thanks for the response, Richard.  I suspected that that might be part of
>it, but wasn't sure.  I guess the OEMs don't think their cooling systems
are
>up to the task at consistent WOT?  Or is it because detonation is more
>likely at WOT?
>
>At any rate, thank you for the answer.
>
>GR
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: richard vandervoort [SMTP:fastski@mailexcite.com]
>> Sent: Monday, August 03, 1998 2:06 PM
>> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>> Cc: george.reiswig@intel.com
>> Subject: Open loop at WOT???
>>
>> The OEMs purposely run rich at WOT because the engine
>> runs cooler.  Emission are not regulated and there
>> isn't any effect on MPG numbers since they do not use
>> WOT during fuel economy testing, so there isn't any
>> penalty for running rich.  Someone has probably already answered this,
but
>> I couldn't find it in the archive.
>>
>>
>> Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
>> http://www.mailexcite.com
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  3 23:55:17 1998
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From: "Mark Romans" <romans@pacbell.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Open loop at WOT???
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 20:56:16 -0700
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I understand the "Learning" that the ecm does in closed loop is applied to
WOT values as well.  If it is necc to add fuel to get 14.7 afr in closed
loop it adds the same amount of fuel in WOT.  In wot it just goes to a
commanded AFR that is richer than 14.7-1.  My 87 vette stock commanded
11.97-1 at higher rpm's with the stock prom.  All fixed now though.  13.0 to
one commanded at higher r's,  12.5 at peak torque.  Pulls much better.  02
sensor says over 800mv at wot.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: TBK <terryk@foothill.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, August 03, 1998 8:37 PM
Subject: Re: Open loop at WOT???


>I was told at WOT, Closed Loop values are used. It is pseudo-quasi open
>loop.
>
>TK
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Reiswig, George <george.reiswig@intel.com>
>To: 'richard vandervoort' <fastski@mailexcite.com>;
>diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Cc: Reiswig, George <george.reiswig@intel.com>; Burleson, RandyX D
><randyx.d.burleson@intel.com>
>Date: Monday, August 03, 1998 2:55 PM
>Subject: RE: Open loop at WOT???
>
>
>>Thanks for the response, Richard.  I suspected that that might be part of
>>it, but wasn't sure.  I guess the OEMs don't think their cooling systems
>are
>>up to the task at consistent WOT?  Or is it because detonation is more
>>likely at WOT?
>>
>>At any rate, thank you for the answer.
>>
>>GR
>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: richard vandervoort [SMTP:fastski@mailexcite.com]
>>> Sent: Monday, August 03, 1998 2:06 PM
>>> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>>> Cc: george.reiswig@intel.com
>>> Subject: Open loop at WOT???
>>>
>>> The OEMs purposely run rich at WOT because the engine
>>> runs cooler.  Emission are not regulated and there
>>> isn't any effect on MPG numbers since they do not use
>>> WOT during fuel economy testing, so there isn't any
>>> penalty for running rich.  Someone has probably already answered this,
>but
>>> I couldn't find it in the archive.
>>>
>>>
>>> Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
>>> http://www.mailexcite.com
>>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug  4 00:22:33 1998
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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 00:17:19 -0400
From: Scott Knight <sknight@mich.com>
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TWong29770@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Scott,
> 
> That is weird, as Diacom is not even suspose to link to any OBD2 cars that I
> know of.  From what Rinda tells me our software as delivered will not link to
> anything newer than a 1995 OBD1 car.  That is very weird.

Well, it connects in 'legacy' mode which I understand the OE's are
required to provide for some time while we all get up and running with
comprehensive OBDII tools.  Back in 1996 when the OBDII cars came along,
I remember the local dealership not even having the OBDII software (if
they are really upgradeable) for the TECH-1.  It took Snap-On until
sometime late last year to get us the software for the scanner that
would read the OBDII properly.  My Diacom+ shipped with an OBDII
adapter, that while it plugs into the DLC, it reads the legacy terminal
only and ignores the OBDII signal altogether.  Bob Bailey does the same
thing with his Scanmaster for the OBDII LT1 engines (which I run all the
time).  What these tools can't do in legacy mode is read and reset
trouble codes and all the OBDII specific parameters are not reported as
well.  Hope this helps.

Later dates.
-- 
Scott Knight  mailto:sknight@mich.com
http://www.mich.com/~sknight IRC:SS396man ICQ:8353618
'95 Black Impala SS
'96 Black K3500 Extended Cab Duallie 7.4L Vortec
'94 Ducati 900SS CR


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug  4 01:05:08 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Pulll uups/downz
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 01:08:15 -0400
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Only at CSH, HQ..
The bench problem I was having, turns out to have been a bad pot.
30 oz Ball Peen took care of the recalibration.
Cheers
Bruce       The staff was just getting used to seeing LEDs flickering
                 and not having the fire department show up to turn them
off.





From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug  4 01:42:38 1998
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Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 01:42:01 EDT
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Subject: Re: Two cooling fans:  how about 1 - two speed fan?
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If space is a concern, a fan can be made for two speed running with two
different temp sensors and a resistor as well.  This setup saves space in
tight compartments.

Chrisotpher M Luquette

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug  4 03:15:05 1998
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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 00:56:39 -0600
From: Shannen Durphey <Shannen@mcn.net>
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Jason Weir wrote:
> 
> I read a thread a while ago that talked about timing in reference to TDC
> when using the 747.  As I recall the 5.7 V8 had a 6 degree advance at
> the distributor while the 4.3 was timed at 0 at the distributor. 

Actually, the majority of the 7747 controlled engines are
timed at zero deg.  Almost a standard to live by...if there
weren't so many other standards to choose from.

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug  4 03:29:57 1998
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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 08:32:50 +0100
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Subject: Two cooling fans very simple solution very  cascade control
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Most cooling fan switches are mounted  near the bottom of the rad on the
outlet side, this is the coolest part of the rad.
If a second identical switch is mounted higher up on the rad it will see
a higher temperature and therefore cut-in earlier and run longer





From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug  4 06:38:15 1998
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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 06:37:30 -0400
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Hey wait a minute....30 oz hammers are limited in their fine tuning ability,
they can get it only partially rite,  like on carbs.....:-)))

GENE

Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> Only at CSH, HQ..
> The bench problem I was having, turns out to have been a bad pot.
> 30 oz Ball Peen took care of the recalibration.
> Cheers
> Bruce       The staff was just getting used to seeing LEDs flickering
>                  and not having the fire department show up to turn them
> off.

-- 


                                ____________
Fun under the sun in          //~~~~~~~~~~~~\\
Jacksonville, Fl.  :-)))     //______________\\
                       /~~~---~   |      |   ~---~~~\
                      /|    /______\____/______\    |\
                    (( | /      |          |      \ | ))   
     Mako 'Vettes    | \============================/ |   
 Shift better with   |\ \\[  ]    |mrvette|   [  ]// /|
     Automatics      | \/+========================+\/ |
                     |~==============================~|
                     |_____|                    |_____|
-------------------------------------------------------------------

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug  4 11:01:08 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 1998 21:21:35 +0000
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Subject: Re: Diacom plus on Pentium laptops
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> Date:          Tue, 04 Aug 1998 00:17:19 -0400
> From:          Scott Knight <sknight@mich.com>
> Organization:  Creative Technologies
> To:            diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:       Re: Diacom plus on Pentium laptops
> Reply-to:      diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

I have not seen any 'legacy' requirements.
There is no legislated phase in period for protocol, there
is technolgy exemptions, especially for misfire problems. 
I developed a embedded  OBD2 VPW  scanner and module using the 
published  stand. J1976 codes in early 96. 
The only problem is it would not work if plugged into GM OBD2
car.  I had use of a Snap-On in late 96, that had what snap-on calls
'generic' which is J1976 for Euro cars.  So I made a module and 
scanner using ISO-9141.  In 97  I decoded a 97 C-3500 vortech using
a upgraded snap-on.  I found it used  J2190 data packs which seems
to be in violation of the Clean Air Act, since J1979 is required.
A 98 Dodge RAM used 8192 baud which is not even a OBD2 protocol.
A 98 Ford used differential PWM but have not yet attempted to 
decipher, some one the list, did say that the Ford manual gives info
about byte deciphering. 
I have not yet tried this years snap-on upgrade, it seems that
it might have the requrired legislated J1979  'generic' open
standard for all US cars? , this would make life much easier, thou 
data packets or fast.  This is prime example of the only people 
following US laws, are the the ones that don't live here..     
alex p

> Well, it connects in 'legacy' mode which I understand the OE's are
> required to provide for some time while we all get up and running with
> comprehensive OBDII tools.  Back in 1996 when the OBDII cars came along,
> I remember the local dealership not even having the OBDII software (if
> they are really upgradeable) for the TECH-1.  It took Snap-On until
> sometime late last year to get us the software for the scanner that
> would read the OBDII properly.  My Diacom+ shipped with an OBDII
> adapter, that while it plugs into the DLC, it reads the legacy terminal
> only and ignores the OBDII signal altogether.  Bob Bailey does the same
> thing with his Scanmaster for the OBDII LT1 engines (which I run all the
> time).  What these tools can't do in legacy mode is read and reset
> trouble codes and all the OBDII specific parameters are not reported as
> well.  Hope this helps.
> 

 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug  4 13:33:00 1998
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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 00:17:19 -0400
From: Scott Knight <sknight@mich.com>
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TWong29770@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Scott,
> 
> That is weird, as Diacom is not even suspose to link to any OBD2 cars that I
> know of.  From what Rinda tells me our software as delivered will not link to
> anything newer than a 1995 OBD1 car.  That is very weird.

Well, it connects in 'legacy' mode which I understand the OE's are
required to provide for some time while we all get up and running with
comprehensive OBDII tools.  Back in 1996 when the OBDII cars came along,
I remember the local dealership not even having the OBDII software (if
they are really upgradeable) for the TECH-1.  It took Snap-On until
sometime late last year to get us the software for the scanner that
would read the OBDII properly.  My Diacom+ shipped with an OBDII
adapter, that while it plugs into the DLC, it reads the legacy terminal
only and ignores the OBDII signal altogether.  Bob Bailey does the same
thing with his Scanmaster for the OBDII LT1 engines (which I run all the
time).  What these tools can't do in legacy mode is read and reset
trouble codes and all the OBDII specific parameters are not reported as
well.  Hope this helps.

Later dates.
-- 
Scott Knight  mailto:sknight@mich.com
http://www.mich.com/~sknight IRC:SS396man ICQ:8353618
'95 Black Impala SS
'96 Black K3500 Extended Cab Duallie 7.4L Vortec
'94 Ducati 900SS CR


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug  4 18:00:13 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
References: <933713F1FB7BD111AC2300A0C98F1AD10102BDEF@MILXPR06>
Subject: Re: Audi Motronic Info
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From: wenning.motorsport@t-online.de (Alexander Wenning)
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Buchholz, Steven schrieb:
> I recently purchased a 1991 Audi Quattro with a 32 valve 3.6 liter V8.  This
> car has a Motronic control box ... I was wondering if there was anyone on
> the list that might have information about the system; how it works, what
> the timing maps control and where they're located, info about differences
> between the US and European versions of the engine, etc ...

Hi Steven,

e-mail me the original chip directly (I´ll unsubscribe the list for two weeks) and I´ll send 
you the informations on 20.8.98 after my holiday.

Regards

Alex Wenning
wenning.motorsport@t-online.de


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug  4 18:53:45 1998
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Date: Tue, 04 Aug 1998 18:48:24 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Stephen Dubovsky <dubovsky@vt.edu>
Subject: Chrysler 2.5L timing?
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	Help! I've finally got my 83 jeep 2.5L running w/ EFI and now it's time to
attack the spark issue.  I've set the timing at 12deg BDC at 1200rpm per
the haynes manual/underhood sticker (w/o the vac advance line connected),
but what should the advance curve look like vs. RPM?  
	The adv. is mechanical I believe, but the old computer MIGHT have had a
role in it all (don't know, using an MSD-6 for spark and SDS EM-2D for EFI
now).  What should this thing go to?  Im new at tuning engines and assume
it should end up somewhere around 25 deg or so?  Whay do you guys/gals
think the curve should look like?

Tnx,
Stephen Dubovsky


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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------0E30115932049BF104CBAD03
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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A source in Forth

--------------0E30115932049BF104CBAD03
Content-Type: application/octet-stream; name="Gmcpatch.zip"
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UEsDBBQAAAAIAC4P6SSYU+sHcQMAADQKAAAMAAAAR01DUEFUQ0guNFRIlVbbbtNKFH235H/Y
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--------------0E30115932049BF104CBAD03--


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug  5 06:36:46 1998
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From: "Georg Faustmann" <powertune@dial.pipex.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Audi Motronic Info
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 11:34:48 +0100
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Steve,

If you can, read the Eprom in an Eprom programmer, and email the file to
these guys :-

http://www.racelogic.co.uk

they will be able to tell you timing maps, fuel maps etc. and can suggest
ways of changing them.

Georg

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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Program for Changing fuel mixture in a GMC C3 eprom
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 07:05:17 -0700
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Haven't used forth in years. Dup Dup Swap ....

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: TC <xxx@xxx.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, August 05, 1998 2:53 AM
Subject: Program for Changing fuel mixture in a GMC C3 eprom


>A source in Forth
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug  5 11:28:45 1998
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I pulled the Add_fuel_inj,zip from the archives, but am unable to 
read / print the schematic or board layout files. 

The readme states those files are preset for a LaserJet but Win95 
doesn't give me any sort of readable printer output. Win95 DOS 
doesn't support the "print" command so I'm somewhat at a loss.

Suggestions anyone?


Bob Cuda-65 - Angels Camp, Calif.
cudabob@workmail.com
http://www.goldrush.com/~rhuish/

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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: delco part numbers
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 11:04:05 -0500 
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I would like to use Delco  integrated circuits from salvaged computers in my
own injection designs. I have the C3 chipset
Pinouts, is there information on the later computers ? I also have the Delco
electro-mechanical cruise control module, is
A chipset list out there for it ?
 
Thanks   Don

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug  5 13:36:27 1998
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try :

"copy file.prn   lpt1 "   or whatever printer port the printer is
connected to

Chad Clendening




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug  5 14:25:29 1998
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Subject: Re: delco part numbers
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I, for one, would be VERY interested in the pinouts, descriptions, and data
for any chips used the Delco or Delphi stuff. No one else on this list
should be interested at all. ; )





Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com on 08/05/98 12:04:05 PM

Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

To:   diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc:    (bcc: Mike Turner/ENGR/HQ/KEMET/US)
Subject:  delco part numbers




I would like to use Delco  integrated circuits from salvaged computers in
my
own injection designs. I have the C3 chipset
Pinouts, is there information on the later computers ? I also have the
Delco
electro-mechanical cruise control module, is
A chipset list out there for it ?

Thanks   Don







From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug  5 15:15:24 1998
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Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 15:10:47 -0400
From: Ken Kelly <kenkelly@lucent.com>
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Subject: Re: Two cooling fans (was: 165 question)
References: <ce2f2750.35c51aae@aol.com> <35C56930.9E0E7DD8@post.almac.co.uk>
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The new camaro F body uses a variation of the two fan Theme.
When you reach the low temp fan limit the two fans are put
in series, so they both run at 1/2 the battery voltage
voltage, and speed. It makes them much quieter and more
effecient than running one on only a part of the radiator.
When the second temp limit is reached it uses relays to put
each fan accross the battery supply, so they both run at
high speed.

		Ken

Andrew W. Macfadyen wrote:
> 
> Some manufacturers use this system I know  the UK  Rover use it in the higher
> performance turbo and V6 models in the 800 range. If you want to take the
> electronic route  you could do it several ways using a temperature sensor  (such
> as  a thermistor or LM335 sensor) connected to a simple voltage comparator (you
> would also need some kind of timer bassed on 555 chip)   or  a better one chip
> solution in the form of the Analog Devices  TMP12FP chip  which is designed for
> use in Pentium PC and actually  measures airflow and temperature.
> 
> Andy MacFadyen
> 
> AL8001@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > In a message someone wrote:
> >
> > >>Wanted to have two fans in pu that came on at
> > >>>different temps. Have some minor drivabilty problems in really hot weather
> > >>>- hope to have ecm do controlling of fans instead of wiring to have come
> > >>>with eng running.
> > >>>
> >
> > It dosn't have to that complicated (searching for a ecm output and table ).
> > Look in a auto parts catalog for a water temp switch used for a hot light.
> > Many have a small screw covered by paint or sealer. Most of the older Ford
> > sensors have a threaded stud with a flat on one side.
> >
> > Clean off the paint, then turn the screw two turns clockwise. Most engines
> > have extra pluged holes in the intake or cylinder heads. Connect the switch to
> > the relay for the second fan.  Run the engine and adjust the screw to the temp
> > you desire.
> >
> > Simple, easy and cheap.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug  5 16:54:20 1998
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From: "Scott Feaver" <sfeaver@cgocable.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Add_fuel_inj
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 16:54:14 -0400
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Try this:

COPY FILENAME.PRN > LPT1



> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of
> rhuish@goldrush.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 1998 11:35 AM
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Add_fuel_inj
> 
> 
> I pulled the Add_fuel_inj,zip from the archives, but am unable to 
> read / print the schematic or board layout files. 
> 
> The readme states those files are preset for a LaserJet but Win95 
> doesn't give me any sort of readable printer output. Win95 DOS 
> doesn't support the "print" command so I'm somewhat at a loss.
> 
> Suggestions anyone?
> 
> 
> Bob Cuda-65 - Angels Camp, Calif.
> cudabob@workmail.com
> http://www.goldrush.com/~rhuish/
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug  5 17:26:49 1998
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Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 17:35:58 -0400
From: Jason Weir <jweir@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: Re: Program for Changing fuel mixture in a GMC C3 eprom
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Anyone have any problem compiling gmcpatch.4th  I get all kinds of
errors any idea what I am doing wrong?  What forth standard is used ANSI
or some other? Jason

--
Jason Weir
88 Wrangler - 258 Chevy TBI
Fayetteville, North Carolina
http://home.att.net/~jweir
mailto:jweir@worldnet.att.net



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug  5 17:41:22 1998
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From: "Chris Conlon" <synchris@ricochet.net>
Subject: two ignition ideas
Date: Wed, 05 Aug 98 17:38:42 PDT
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Hi eveyrone,

A couple of people (on my other lists) have mentioned various engines
with 2 plugs per cylinder. (Not even counting rotaries, diesels, etc.)
Apparently in some designs the second plug fires much later, and helps
reduce emissions significantly. This led me to a couple of weird ideas
for ignition systems.

First, take a basically stock ignition system, and build a small
inverter to supply 3kV-5kV at a few mA, and a HV capacitor of hopefully
several hundred mF. Using some HV diodes, wire this in parallel with
the existing ignition system. The idea is to have the main spark fire,
and then have the inverter/capacitor continue a lower-current, long
duration spark across the now-ionized gap. (You'd need one per cylinder,
or some kind of icky switch, etc etc.)  Hopefully you'd get more
complete combustion, reliable ignition, maybe a bit lower emissions.

Has anyone tried this? The idea seems simple enough that I imagine
it's been tried and discarded for some reason or other. (No major
benefits over a well-done normal ignition, would be my guess.)


Second, something made me think that it would be clever/cool to use
short-wave UV light to ignite the charge. It generates ozone, after
all, which ought to ignite things nicely. I'm not sure how you'd
make part of the cylinder head transparent (a quartz glass plug?),
or how you'd generate the UV pulses reliably. (Some kind of solid
state laser is probably the only thing reliable enough that I can
think of. Are there long-life UV flashlamps?)  A drawback or
benefit is that the charge would no longer be ignited from a single
point, but rather a whole region would be ignited. You could
control this somewhat by altering how the light shines through
the port in the head. Would it be good or bad to have the whole
charge ignite at once? I have no idea. A likely benefit is
very thorough ignition/combustion, which is where the idea came
from in the first place.

Anyway, just a couple of wild ideas to stir things up.

   Chris C.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug  5 19:41:20 1998
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Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 19:35:15 -0400
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: I'm looking at diagnosing problems with a L-Jetronic system
References: Conversation <85256657.00650264.00@smtpgw.kemet.com> with last message <85256657.00650264.00@smtpgw.kemet.com> <MAPI.Id.0016.00796e63687269733030303830303038@MAPI.to.RFC822>
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The ECU that controls my system doesn't have a diagnostic capacity. I'm
at a loss at how to figure out if the ECU is running the motor correctly
and if the mixture is realy what it should be. It seems rich. I'm
looking for a way to modify the lean rich mixture variable either by
taping into one of the sensors or adding a pot to the ECU. Does anyone
have a working knowledge of this injecting system?
Thanks for any help.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug  5 20:06:23 1998
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From: "Geoff & Sue Richards" <geoffsue@one.net.au>
To: "Diy_Efi" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 808
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 1998 02:44:10 +1000
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Could someone please tell me what model Holdens used the 808?
Also would anyone be able to point me in the right direction so I can learn
about this "Diacom" business and learn to use a home PC to talk to engine
management systems.(GMH)I have access to Tech 1 & 2 but would like my
own.Snap-On rep will sell scanner but cost is prohibitive
Thanks
geoffsue@one.net.au




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug  5 21:22:31 1998
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Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 11:22:26 +1000
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Steve Lamb <lambs@HOTBLK.dsto.defence.gov.au>
Subject: Re: 808
Cc: "Geoff & Sue Richards" <geoffsue@one.net.au>
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>Could someone please tell me what model Holdens used the 808?

VN, VP Commodes
JE Camiras
Some late Astra's (LD ??)


Steve Lamb
Department of Defence, DSTO
Aeronautical and Maritime Research Laboratory
506 Lorimer Street
Fishermans Bend  VIC 3207 Australia

Tel: +61 3 9626 7525
Fax: +61 3 9626 7089

IZCC #180



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug  5 21:56:03 1998
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Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 22:00:46 -0400
From: Lawrence King <lawrence@promobility.net>
Organization: Eh?
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Subject: Re: two ignition ideas
References: Conversation <85256657.00650264.00@smtpgw.kemet.com> with last message <85256657.00650264.00@smtpgw.kemet.com> <MAPI.Id.0016.00796e63687269733030303830303038@MAPI.to.RFC822>
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Hi:

Err, Ummm.... Ahhh. The few UV lasers I have worked with don't have
enough power output to ionize any significant amount of gas in the
available time, but you can always get a bigger laser. So if you
ignore that little problem, then you get to the next problem, these
lasers are really fragile, just bump the bench they are on and they
stop lasing, probably not good for a car, but you could build a more
rugged laser. So if you ignore that  little problem the next thing you
find out is a UV Laser costs about the same as a new Honda Civic. I
suspect that is why nobody has tried your idea.

	-Lawrence-

Chris Conlon wrote:
> 
> Hi eveyrone,
<snip> 
> Second, something made me think that it would be clever/cool to use
> short-wave UV light to ignite the charge. It generates ozone, after
> all, which ought to ignite things nicely. I'm not sure how you'd
> make part of the cylinder head transparent (a quartz glass plug?),
> or how you'd generate the UV pulses reliably. (Some kind of solid
> state laser is probably the only thing reliable enough that I can
> think of. Are there long-life UV flashlamps?)  A drawback or
> benefit is that the charge would no longer be ignited from a single
> point, but rather a whole region would be ignited. You could
> control this somewhat by altering how the light shines through
> the port in the head. Would it be good or bad to have the whole
> charge ignite at once? I have no idea. A likely benefit is
> very thorough ignition/combustion, which is where the idea came
> from in the first place.
> 
> Anyway, just a couple of wild ideas to stir things up.
> 
>    Chris C.

-- 
Lawrence King   lawrence@promobility.net    Ottawa Ontario Canada
70 Buick Wildcat,        71 Lotus Elan,          92 Nissan NX2000
I am a three car family (four if you count the Buick as two cars)

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug  5 22:51:14 1998
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Just copy the files to the printer port.
copy xxxxxxxx.xxx lpt1:
This worked for me.



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  6 00:42:09 1998
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From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
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Subject: RE: two ignition ideas
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 00:38:44 -0400
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BDC0D3.48B69680
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Hi,

Lawrence wrote:

> Err, Ummm.... Ahhh. The few UV lasers I have worked with don't have
> ...
> So if you ignore that  little problem the next thing you
> find out is a UV Laser costs about the same as a new Honda Civic. I
> suspect that is why nobody has tried your idea.

D'oh!! Oh well. It doesn't really have to be a laser, but the few short-
wave UV lamps I've worked with (a) were somewhat fragile, and (b) could
not be turned on and off quickly. (Not more than a couple times anyway!)

I was hoping it'd be possible to build something like a xenon flash
lamp, but with discharge in the far UV range. But even so, most flash
lamps don't seem to have a long life either.

Guess I should put my bets on the simpler idea. ;)

   Chris

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  6 03:14:58 1998
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From: "Helge Hafting" <helge.hafting@daldata.no>
Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 09:00:11 +0100
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Subject: Re: two ignition ideas
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In <MAPI.Id.0016.00796e63687269733030303830303038@MAPI.to.RFC822>, on
08/05/98 
   at 05:38 PM, "Chris Conlon" <synchris@ricochet.net> said:

>Hi eveyrone,

>A couple of people (on my other lists) have mentioned various engines
>with 2 plugs per cylinder. (Not even counting rotaries, diesels, etc.)
>Apparently in some designs the second plug fires much later, and helps
>reduce emissions significantly. This led me to a couple of weird ideas
>for ignition systems.
You don't need an extra plug if all you want is to fire twice.  There  are
ignition systems that fire the same plug several times.  Look at:
<http://www.msdignition.com/2mcpulse.htm>
for an example.  2 plugs in the same cylinder are usually fired 
simultaneously.  This ignites the charge in two places making it burn
faster.  This gives more pressure while the piston still is at the top,
making some more power.  Using 2 plugs may also allow a somewhat higher
compression without getting detonation.

Firing several times in one cycle avoids misfiring problems and make sure
everything is burned.  This gives less emissions and slightly more power. 
The effect is most noticeable at low speed/idle.  (There isn't much time
for multiple firing at high rpm's anyway.)

>First, take a basically stock ignition system, and build a small inverter
>to supply 3kV-5kV at a few mA, and a HV capacitor of hopefully several
>hundred mF. Using some HV diodes, wire this in parallel with the existing
>ignition system. The idea is to have the main spark fire, and then have
>the inverter/capacitor continue a lower-current, long duration spark
>across the now-ionized gap. (You'd need one per cylinder, or some kind of
>icky switch, etc etc.)  Hopefully you'd get more complete combustion,
>reliable ignition, maybe a bit lower emissions.

>Has anyone tried this? The idea seems simple enough that I imagine it's
>been tried and discarded for some reason or other. (No major benefits
>over a well-done normal ignition, would be my guess.)
Price is one thing - you are introducing a lot more components.  And will
it work at all?  The "ionized path" may very well be blown away by
combustion pressure stopping your low-current spark.

>Second, something made me think that it would be clever/cool to use
>short-wave UV light to ignite the charge. It generates ozone, after all,
>which ought to ignite things nicely. I'm not sure how you'd make part of
>the cylinder head transparent (a quartz glass plug?), or how you'd
>generate the UV pulses reliably. (Some kind of solid state laser is
>probably the only thing reliable enough that I can think of. Are there
>long-life UV flashlamps?)  A drawback or benefit is that the charge would
>no longer be ignited from a single point, but rather a whole region would
>be ignited. You could control this somewhat by altering how the light
>shines through the port in the head. Would it be good or bad to have the
>whole charge ignite at once? 
I guess igniting a region instead of a point will be like having several
plugs - you'll get a faster burn and that is usually an advantage. I
imagine igniting everything at once will be just like detonation - no
good.  You want a flame front that moves through the charge in a short
time, but not zero time.  One way of speeding it up is to start the fire
in several places.

Helge Hafting
-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------
helge.hafting@daldata.no
-----------------------------------------------------------


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  6 03:19:31 1998
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From: Tony Cooper <tony.cooper@virgin.net>
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TC wrote:

> A source in Forth
>
>   ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>                       Name: Gmcpatch.zip
>    Gmcpatch.zip       Type: Zip Compressed Data (application/x-zip-compressed)
>                   Encoding: base64

 Why the F*CK was this posted...........


--
Sent By Tony Cooper.
email: tony.cooper@virgin.net
Allow at least 10 working minutes for reply. ;)




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sad
asd
sad
sad

--MAB08730.902398829/gull.dockside.co.za--


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  6 08:56:22 1998
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Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 12:56:12 +0000 (UTC)
From: Jim Lill <jpl@vectorbd.com>
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Bosch EZK
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I'm looking for a source of info on the Bosch EZK ignition ECU. Things
like uP type, memory map, mods etc.

TIA


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Jim Lill         jpl@vectorbd.com
http://www.vectorbd.com/users/jpl
    wa2zkd@wb2psi.#wny.usa.na



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  6 09:45:58 1998
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Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 08:49:46 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Jim Zurlo <zurlo@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: two ignition ideas
In-Reply-To: <19980806070951984.AAA253.335@HELGES_PC>
References: <MAPI.Id.0016.00796e63687269733030303830303038@MAPI.to.RFC822>
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It's been done before.  Someone at GM ran a single cylinder CFR engine
using laser ignition.  I can't remember what type of laser was used, but
you could check it out by getting SAE paper 780329.
Jim Z.


>>Second, something made me think that it would be clever/cool to use
>>short-wave UV light to ignite the charge. It generates ozone, after all,
>>which ought to ignite things nicely. I'm not sure how you'd make part of
>>the cylinder head transparent (a quartz glass plug?), or how you'd
>>generate the UV pulses reliably. (Some kind of solid state laser is
>>probably the only thing reliable enough that I can think of. Are there
>>long-life UV flashlamps?)  A drawback or benefit is that the charge would
>>no longer be ignited from a single point, but rather a whole region would
>>be ignited. You could control this somewhat by altering how the light
>>shines through the port in the head. Would it be good or bad to have the
>>whole charge ignite at once? 



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  6 15:44:34 1998
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From: "Joni" <joni.mikkola@dlc.fi>
To: "DIY EFI" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: *** URGENT *** Bosch Motronic MP 1.7
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 22:44:49 +0300
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------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BDC18B.D1664F80
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Hello boys,

We have a BIG problem with our race car. We can't get it running. We =
don't get sparks. When we take four plugs (4 cyl Cosworth engine) out of =
the engine and put them on top of the camshaft cover and start the =
engine we can see sparks on all of the four plugs. But if put four =
replacement plugs into engine, and leave the four originals on top of =
the cam cover, and start the engine we can not see any sparks. ??????? =
WHY ???????

The MP 1.7 uses two symmetrical sectors on the flywheel with inductive =
crank sensor. Plus a hall sensor in the distributor (with only one =
"window" on the rotating part). We have checked and double checked the =
sensor synchronization, wires, connectors and the sensors themselves. =
The sensor output looks OK on the oscilloscope. When we try to start the =
engine the fuel pumps and start running and injectors firing.=20

We are out of the ideas. We have now tried to solve this problem for =
almost four days. Any ideas are more than welcome as we should be racing =
on Saturday.

Please visit our teams web pages at: =
http://www.bookmark.fi/cosworth/index.html

Appreciate your help,

Joni Mikkola

------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BDC18B.D1664F80
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
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<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hello boys,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>We have a BIG problem with our race =
car. We=20
can't get it running. We don't get sparks. When we take four plugs (4 =
cyl=20
Cosworth engine) out of the engine and put them on top of the camshaft =
cover and=20
start the engine we can see sparks on all of the four plugs. But if put =
four=20
replacement plugs into engine, and leave the four originals on top of =
the cam=20
cover, and start the engine we can not see any sparks. ??????? WHY=20
???????</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>The MP 1.7 uses two symmetrical =
sectors on the=20
flywheel with inductive crank sensor. Plus a hall sensor in the =
distributor=20
(with only one &quot;window&quot; on the rotating part). We have checked =
and=20
double checked the sensor <FONT color=3D#000000>synchronization</FONT>, =
wires,=20
connectors and the sensors themselves. The sensor output looks OK on the =
<FONT=20
color=3D#000000>oscilloscope</FONT>. When we try to start the engine the =
fuel=20
pumps and start running and injectors firing. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>We are out of the ideas. We have now =
tried to=20
solve this problem for almost four days. Any ideas are more than welcome =
as we=20
should be racing on Saturday.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Please visit our teams web pages at: =
<A=20
href=3D"http://www.bookmark.fi/cosworth/index.html">http://www.bookmark.f=
i/cosworth/index.html</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Appreciate your help,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Joni Mikkola</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BDC18B.D1664F80--


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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: *** URGENT *** Bosch Motronic MP 1.7
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 17:20:34 -0400
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   =20
    From: Joni <joni.mikkola@dlc.fi>
    Subject: *** URGENT *** Bosch Motronic MP 1.7
   =20
   =20
    We have a BIG problem with our race car. We can't get it running. We =
don't get sparks. When we take four plugs (4 cyl Cosworth engine) out of =
the engine and put them on top of the camshaft cover and start the =
engine we can see sparks on all of the four plugs. But if put four =
replacement plugs into engine, and leave the four originals on top of =
the cam cover, and start the engine we can not see any sparks. ??????? =
WHY ???????
   =20
    Did you use some thread anti-sieze, and used too much?.
    Is the cylinder head grounded?.
   =20
   =20
    Give it a shoot of starting fluid, and see if it catchs.  You sure =
you don't have the coils paks crossed?.
   =20
    Maybe a fuel problem, that is being mistaken for lack of spark.
   =20
    Cam Timing?.  Absolutely sure.
   =20
   =20
    =20
    Cheers
    Bruce
    =20
    Joni Mikkola

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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><BR><B>From: </B>Joni &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:joni.mikkola@dlc.fi">joni.mikkola@dlc.fi</A>&gt;<BR><B>Sub=
ject:=20
    </B>*** URGENT *** Bosch Motronic MP 1.7<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>We have a BIG problem with our =
race car. We=20
    can't get it running. We don't get sparks. When we take four plugs =
(4 cyl=20
    Cosworth engine) out of the engine and put them on top of the =
camshaft cover=20
    and start the engine we can see sparks on all of the four plugs. But =
if put=20
    four replacement plugs into engine, and leave the four originals on =
top of=20
    the cam cover, and start the engine we can not see any sparks. =
??????? WHY=20
    ???????</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Did you use some thread anti-sieze, and used too =

    much?.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Is the cylinder head grounded?.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Give it a shoot of starting fluid, and see if it =

    catchs.&nbsp; You sure you don't have the coils paks =
crossed?.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Maybe a fuel problem, that is being mistaken for =
lack of=20
    spark.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Cam Timing?.&nbsp; Absolutely sure.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Cheers</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT =
size=3D2>Bruce</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Joni =
Mikkola</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0043_01BDC15E.8530DAE0--


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I concur with Bruce: it sounds like a ground problem if fuel is truly
present and sparks appear on the covers. Ground the plug body and retry
firing. Another trick is to use the inductive pickup to see if spark is
present. No current, no circuit.



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  6 17:49:33 1998
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From: "Kurek, Larry" <LKurek@ocfexch2.ocf.anl.gov>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: *** URGENT *** Bosch Motronic MP 1.7
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 16:52:17 -0500 
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Sounds like you might have a voltage drop problem. When you crank the
engine without the plugs in, it is under a light load and the starter
doesn't pull a lot of current, so your battery voltage stays high. Once
you slap the plugs in, the compression of the engine causes a greater
voltage drop, and you are probably losing enough power to fire the
plugs. Just a guess...but I have seen that before.

TTYL!

Larry

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Joni [SMTP:joni.mikkola@dlc.fi]
> Sent:	Thursday, August 06, 1998 2:45 PM
> To:	DIY EFI
> Subject:	*** URGENT *** Bosch Motronic MP 1.7
> 
> Hello boys,
>  
> We have a BIG problem with our race car. We can't get it running. We
> don't get sparks. When we take four plugs (4 cyl Cosworth engine) out
> of the engine and put them on top of the camshaft cover and start the
> engine we can see sparks on all of the four plugs. But if put four
> replacement plugs into engine, and leave the four originals on top of
> the cam cover, and start the engine we can not see any sparks. ???????
> WHY ???????
>  
> The MP 1.7 uses two symmetrical sectors on the flywheel with inductive
> crank sensor. Plus a hall sensor in the distributor (with only one
> "window" on the rotating part). We have checked and double checked the
> sensor synchronization, wires, connectors and the sensors themselves.
> The sensor output looks OK on the oscilloscope. When we try to start
> the engine the fuel pumps and start running and injectors firing. 
>  
> We are out of the ideas. We have now tried to solve this problem for
> almost four days. Any ideas are more than welcome as we should be
> racing on Saturday.
>  
> Please visit our teams web pages at:
> <http://www.bookmark.fi/cosworth/index.html>
>  
> Appreciate your help,
>  
> Joni Mikkola

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  6 19:04:45 1998
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Date: Wed, 05 Aug 1998 21:55:32 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Joe Boucher <jboucher@ctelcom.net>
Subject: Re: Pulll uups/downz
In-Reply-To: <35C6E46A.D31EEFFF@bellsouth.net>
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In my younger days I knew a friend of a friend called the Beast.  It was
because of his beast fits.  One involved a hammer and the valve train on an
engine he was trying to adjust the valves on.  Another one involved a drill
motor.  It started with a complete drill and when the fit was over he was
standing with the power cord in his hand and all that was left was the
brushes and the trigger switch.

Other than that, he was an okay guy.

Joe Boucher
'70 RS/SS Camaro  '81 TBI Suburban

At 06:37 AM 8/4/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Hey wait a minute....30 oz hammers are limited in their fine tuning ability,
>they can get it only partially rite,  like on carbs.....:-)))
>
>GENE
>
>Bruce Plecan wrote:
>> 
>> Only at CSH, HQ..
>> The bench problem I was having, turns out to have been a bad pot.
>> 30 oz Ball Peen took care of the recalibration.
>> Cheers
>> Bruce       The staff was just getting used to seeing LEDs flickering
>>                  and not having the fire department show up to turn them
>> off.
>
>-- 
>
>
>                                ____________
>Fun under the sun in          //~~~~~~~~~~~~\\
>Jacksonville, Fl.  :-)))     //______________\\
>                       /~~~---~   |      |   ~---~~~\
>                      /|    /______\____/______\    |\
>                    (( | /      |          |      \ | ))   
>     Mako 'Vettes    | \============================/ |   
> Shift better with   |\ \\[  ]    |mrvette|   [  ]// /|
>     Automatics      | \/+========================+\/ |
>                     |~==============================~|
>                     |_____|                    |_____|
>-------------------------------------------------------------------
>
Joe Boucher
'70 RS/SS Camaro  '81 TBI Suburban

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  6 19:26:31 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Bench ecms
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 19:29:40 -0400
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I had been told the sensor grounds on a gm ecm floated in reference to the
chassis ground, well that doesn't appear to be correct, everything is just a
couple tenths of an ohm from true ground.
With no displayed voltage drops across grounds.
While still seperated, does it really matter if sensor grounds go to
chassis, on an actual car?.    If so then where Have I strayed to having
had sensor ground problems????....


For coolant temp, and intake air temps, I was just going to share
resistances.  Tieing grounds together.

For TPS, and MAP I was going to tie the grounds together, use the
+5 from one ecm, and then share the sensor's output.
YES/NO??????..

Cheers
Bruce        RPM signals applied to both ecms, and powered up
                  leds flashed and no problems today.
                  The cat has grown boarded with the flashing LEDs,
                  but the staff is acting like their inna stupor.


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  6 20:19:06 1998
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Dear Bruce

You have to look at ground analysis.
With no current draw from accessories engine starter ect
eng ground is ecm ground.
Turn something on and engine ground might measure -3volts
which is evil in ecm terms.

Also signal noise analysis.
An improper ground would let noise into the ecm.

Thus sensor ground shall always be used for sensors, O2 gnd fer
O2, and power ground for power ground, as well as injector returns
should go to back of engine block

Have a gun one.

:peter

At 07:29 PM 8/6/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I had been told the sensor grounds on a gm ecm floated in reference to the
>chassis ground, well that doesn't appear to be correct, everything is just a
>couple tenths of an ohm from true ground.
>With no displayed voltage drops across grounds.
>While still seperated, does it really matter if sensor grounds go to
>chassis, on an actual car?.    If so then where Have I strayed to having
>had sensor ground problems????....
>
>
>For coolant temp, and intake air temps, I was just going to share
>resistances.  Tieing grounds together.
>
>For TPS, and MAP I was going to tie the grounds together, use the
>+5 from one ecm, and then share the sensor's output.
>YES/NO??????..
>
>Cheers
>Bruce        RPM signals applied to both ecms, and powered up
>                  leds flashed and no problems today.
>                  The cat has grown boarded with the flashing LEDs,
>                  but the staff is acting like their inna stupor.
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  6 20:37:29 1998
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Subject: Re: Bench ecms
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I'd try tying the two ecms power supply grounds together at a single point
(keep the ground wire between them short)  and leave the sensor grounds
unattached.  Tying the grounds together at multiple points results in
ground loops which may cause problems.  If you do tie the grounds together
in multiple places, make sure you like the resulting problems better than
the ones your solving:)

The couple tenths of an ohm in resistance should not make much difference
since the sensors draw very little current (for the TPS pot: 
I=V/R=5v/5k=5ma). 5ma across 0.2 ohms isn't much.  So, the sensor ground
should be very close to the same potential as the ecm ground.

Measure the voltage between the two ecm sensor grounds and the two sensor
+5v supplies.  Any significant difference means the two ecms may come up
with different answers for the same sensor. 

Since you're driving LEDs, not high current loads like injectors, the
ground potential of each ecm should stay close.  This is a good thing
since it's then more likely that both ecms will come up with the same
answer for sensor voltage measurements.

That's my opinion.  There are other ways of doing it.

Tom


On Thu, 6 Aug 1998, Bruce Plecan wrote:

> I had been told the sensor grounds on a gm ecm floated in reference to the
> chassis ground, well that doesn't appear to be correct, everything is just a
> couple tenths of an ohm from true ground.
> With no displayed voltage drops across grounds.
> While still seperated, does it really matter if sensor grounds go to
> chassis, on an actual car?.    If so then where Have I strayed to having
> had sensor ground problems????....
> 
> 
> For coolant temp, and intake air temps, I was just going to share
> resistances.  Tieing grounds together.
> 
> For TPS, and MAP I was going to tie the grounds together, use the
> +5 from one ecm, and then share the sensor's output.
> YES/NO??????..
> 
> Cheers
> Bruce        RPM signals applied to both ecms, and powered up
>                   leds flashed and no problems today.
>                   The cat has grown boarded with the flashing LEDs,
>                   but the staff is acting like their inna stupor.
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  6 20:38:56 1998
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Subject: Electromotive v Haltech v Accel v Home Brew
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Hi, it's me again...I am still looking to add a good FI system to a
turbo 429 that is in the works.  I would like some impartial opinions on
the different type of controllers available.  One thing I noticed on the
E-motive is that it has the capability to electrically control the
wastegate.  This seems to be a good idea because I could have it
fail-safe open and could also leave it open for normal driving to bypass
the flow restrciction of the turbine.  I would also like to have it
driveable enough that my grandmother could be comfortable in it, and
fuel efficient (as fuel efficient as a 429 can be) during normal
driving.  This is where I think the home brew system may fall short but
I don't know much about it.  Also, do any of these have adaptive learn
or am I just asking way too much of an aftermarket system?

Thanks,
Birken

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  6 21:21:13 1998
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Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 20:29:56 -0500
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One of your hall sensors might be set too far away. It could be generating
enough signal when the motor is cranking fast (no plugs), but falling
just short when cranking speed is lower. Try moving one or the other 
closer. Also, I second the low battery voltage suggestion.

 Walter

> Joni wrote:
> 
> Hello boys,
> 
> We have a BIG problem with our race car. We can't get it running. We
> don't get sparks. When we take four plugs (4 cyl Cosworth engine) out of
> the engine and put them on top of the camshaft cover and start the engine
> we can see sparks on all of the four plugs. But if put four replacement
> plugs into engine, and leave the four originals on top of the cam cover,
> and start the engine we can not see any sparks. ??????? WHY ???????
> 
...

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  6 21:48:14 1998
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Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 21:52:39 -0400
From: Lawrence King <lawrence@promobility.net>
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Hi:

Ideally for any measurement system there is just one point which is
defined to be ground. All sensors should have seperate wires which
lead from this single point (called the star ground). The star ground
should be really close to the ECM (in fact it would be even better if
the star ground was inside the ECM). The same applies to the +5V. Do
not share powers and grounds between sensors. Do not use the frame as
a return path.

The frame may have only 0.010 ohms resistance, but when you crank the
starter it draws hundreds of amps. V=IR in this case R=0.010 and
I=100, hence the voltage drop (V) across the frame is 1 volt, this is
a very significant voltage to your sensors (ie 20% error). Go to the
effort of sopplying seperate pairs (or triples) of wires to each
sensor, it will save you a lot of grief.

		-Lawrence-

Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> I had been told the sensor grounds on a gm ecm floated in reference to the
> chassis ground, well that doesn't appear to be correct, everything is just a
> couple tenths of an ohm from true ground.
> With no displayed voltage drops across grounds.
> While still seperated, does it really matter if sensor grounds go to
> chassis, on an actual car?.    If so then where Have I strayed to having
> had sensor ground problems????....
> 
> For coolant temp, and intake air temps, I was just going to share
> resistances.  Tieing grounds together.
> 
> For TPS, and MAP I was going to tie the grounds together, use the
> +5 from one ecm, and then share the sensor's output.
> YES/NO??????..
> 
> Cheers
> Bruce        RPM signals applied to both ecms, and powered up
>                   leds flashed and no problems today.
>                   The cat has grown boarded with the flashing LEDs,
>                   but the staff is acting like their inna stupor.

-- 
Lawrence King   lawrence@promobility.net    Ottawa Ontario Canada
70 Buick Wildcat,        71 Lotus Elan,          92 Nissan NX2000
I am a three car family (four if you count the Buick as two cars)

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  6 21:54:24 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Bench ecms
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 21:57:34 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: peter paul fenske <ffnsp955@bcit.bc.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, August 06, 1998 9:13 PM
Subject: Re: Bench ecms


Geez, makes perfect sense.
Thanks
Bruce


>Dear Bruce
>
>You have to look at ground analysis.
>With no current draw from accessories engine starter ect
>eng ground is ecm ground.
>Turn something on and engine ground might measure -3volts
>which is evil in ecm terms.
>
>Also signal noise analysis.
>An improper ground would let noise into the ecm.
>
>Thus sensor ground shall always be used for sensors, O2 gnd fer
>O2, and power ground for power ground, as well as injector returns
>should go to back of engine block
>
>Have a gun one.
>
>:peter
>
>At 07:29 PM 8/6/98 -0400, you wrote:
>>I had been told the sensor grounds on a gm ecm floated in reference to the
>>chassis ground, well that doesn't appear to be correct, everything is just
a
>>couple tenths of an ohm from true ground.
>>With no displayed voltage drops across grounds.
>>While still seperated, does it really matter if sensor grounds go to
>>chassis, on an actual car?.    If so then where Have I strayed to having
>>had sensor ground problems????....
>>
>>
>>For coolant temp, and intake air temps, I was just going to share
>>resistances.  Tieing grounds together.
>>
>>For TPS, and MAP I was going to tie the grounds together, use the
>>+5 from one ecm, and then share the sensor's output.
>>YES/NO??????..
>>
>>Cheers
>>Bruce        RPM signals applied to both ecms, and powered up
>>                  leds flashed and no problems today.
>>                  The cat has grown boarded with the flashing LEDs,
>>                  but the staff is acting like their inna stupor.
>>
>>
>>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  6 22:00:48 1998
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Subject: Re: *** URGENT *** Bosch Motronic MP 1.7
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It must be a voltage drop causing the lack of spark, I doubt that the
voltage drop is causing the coils to not work, It is more likely that the
ECU shuts down with the low voltage.
Some people didn't read the post correctly judging by the replies.

Wayne.



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  6 22:33:29 1998
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Subject: Re: I'm looking at diagnosing problems with a L-Jetronic system
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> Date:          Wed, 05 Aug 1998 19:35:15 -0400
> From:          Victor Tomanov <vtomanov@home.com>
> Organization:  @Home Network
> To:            diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:       I'm looking at diagnosing problems with a L-Jetronic system
> Reply-to:      diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

> The ECU that controls my system doesn't have a diagnostic capacity. I'm
> at a loss at how to figure out if the ECU is running the motor correctly
> and if the mixture is realy what it should be. It seems rich. I'm
> looking for a way to modify the lean rich mixture variable either by
> taping into one of the sensors or adding a pot to the ECU. Does anyone
> have a working knowledge of this injecting system?
> Thanks for any help.
> 
1.) check for vac. leaks.
2)Locate the airflow meter
3.) Look for a blue round cap plug, with 1/4" screw driver gently
tap down on one side and pull out with needle nose.
Take a 6mm allen wrench and turn screw out to lean.   
3)Take a pair of large water pump pliers and pop the black cover off,
(some beemer's the air box is upside down, so remove the  3 10mm
mounting nuts loosen the hose clamps and turn it)
Take a scribe and mark the position of the spring clip on plastic
cogged wheel.  Also note relative tension, in case spring flies 
loose. Use a 1/4" screw driver and turn cogged wheel to tighten
the spring, to lean.  It varies with cars, try increments of 10 
clicks max. 
4)Use a phillips screw driver and loosen the wiper arm.
turn very slightly ccw to lean, on some cars if you go to for
lean you will not activate the fuel pump during starting.
5)I have never tried puting a pot in the line.
The lines you can try or air temp. water temp or aiflow
6)I have made a micro computer intercept box, which allows
rich or lean adjustments, if you are intersested.
alex

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  6 23:02:53 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: ALDLing Bench ecms
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 23:06:00 -0400
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If I'm running two ecms with 8192 ALDLs, would I be able to use a
SPDT switch to flip from one to the other for the scanner, assuming
I'd used a remote resistor for closing A-B, on each of the ecms.
Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug  7 01:04:59 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: ALDLing Bench ecms
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 22:01:35 -0700
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It should work. It will just resync on the unit when you switch. However,
you should be running the same or similar eproms or the order of the data
may be different and Diacom will show things like Idle RPM of 6000. I think
most P4's are spewing data all of the time.

The answer is generally yes with a few potential gotcha's.

TK


-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, August 06, 1998 8:14 PM
Subject: ALDLing Bench ecms


>If I'm running two ecms with 8192 ALDLs, would I be able to use a
>SPDT switch to flip from one to the other for the scanner, assuming
>I'd used a remote resistor for closing A-B, on each of the ecms.
>Cheers
>Bruce
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug  7 06:49:26 1998
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Howdy! I guess I got kicked off for awhile. It sure is refreshing to 
be back amongst you nut balls.

  BRUCE! Nice that you two are a real Hammer enthusiast too. I've been
known to go after carburetors with 3 foot screwdrivers and 12# hammers.
Sometimes if I think a particular rig is going to be obstininent I set
a sledge hammer out on the ground in front of it to let it know who's
going to win. So far I've never lost one yet. I call it disiplinary
purposes, it's been known to change customers attitudes too.

Do I maybe qualify for a hat yet????:-)

Just for grins, has any other people around here bye chance figured
out a good cheap way of coming up with a reasonable priced way of
coming up with a non-centrifugal blower???

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug  7 07:17:18 1998
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Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 07:20:14 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
From: Jim Lill <jpl@vectorbd.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Bosch EZK
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I'm looking for info on Bosch EZ200K ignition modules. uP type, ROM Maps
etc. 

TIA

-Jim




From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug  7 08:29:43 1998
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From: Jim Lill <jpl@vectorbd.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Bosch
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Those working with Bosch might find this page interesting:

http://www.vectorbd.com/peugeot/bosch.html


-Jim Lill  http://www.vectorbd.com/users/jpl




From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug  7 08:31:15 1998
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I am assuming you are a EE candidate at a minimun, so I shouldn't have to say
anything more than that the engine block is the ground for all sensors,  Not the
body of the car....your starting sequence and the crazy currents through the
battery circuit and etc. could/would drive the computer crazy....and the use of
several grounds/+5volt wires is for the obvious ground/feed loop problems, if
you consider the various possibilities of inductive feedback from other
hi-current wires...you can get my drift.....at any rate, wire it like it says in
the wiring diagrams from your local GM dealer's copy machine....they been very
good to me, when asked nicely.....GENE

Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> I had been told the sensor grounds on a gm ecm floated in reference to the
> chassis ground, well that doesn't appear to be correct, everything is just a
> couple tenths of an ohm from true ground.
> With no displayed voltage drops across grounds.
> While still seperated, does it really matter if sensor grounds go to
> chassis, on an actual car?.    If so then where Have I strayed to having
> had sensor ground problems????....
> 
> For coolant temp, and intake air temps, I was just going to share
> resistances.  Tieing grounds together.
> 
> For TPS, and MAP I was going to tie the grounds together, use the
> +5 from one ecm, and then share the sensor's output.
> YES/NO??????..
> 
> Cheers
> Bruce        RPM signals applied to both ecms, and powered up
>                   leds flashed and no problems today.
>                   The cat has grown boarded with the flashing LEDs,
>                   but the staff is acting like their inna stupor.

-- 


                                ____________
Fun under the sun in          //~~~~~~~~~~~~\\
Jacksonville, Fl.  :-)))     //______________\\
                       /~~~---~   |      |   ~---~~~\
                      /|    /______\____/______\    |\
                    (( | /      |          |      \ | ))   
     Mako 'Vettes    | \============================/ |   
 Shift better with   |\ \\[  ]    |mrvette|   [  ]// /|
     Automatics      | \/+========================+\/ |
                     |~==============================~|
                     |_____|                    |_____|
-------------------------------------------------------------------

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From: "Mike Turner" <MikeTurner@kemet.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Subject: Re: Pulll uups/downz
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Sounds like a classic case of (Bob) Widlerizing.





Joe Boucher <jboucher@ctelcom.net> on 08/05/98 10:55:32 PM

Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

To:   diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc:    (bcc: Mike Turner/ENGR/HQ/KEMET/US)
Subject:  Re: Pulll uups/downz




In my younger days I knew a friend of a friend called the Beast.  It was
because of his beast fits.  One involved a hammer and the valve train on an
engine he was trying to adjust the valves on.  Another one involved a drill
motor.  It started with a complete drill and when the fit was over he was
standing with the power cord in his hand and all that was left was the
brushes and the trigger switch.

Other than that, he was an okay guy.

Joe Boucher
'70 RS/SS Camaro  '81 TBI Suburban

At 06:37 AM 8/4/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Hey wait a minute....30 oz hammers are limited in their fine tuning
ability,
>they can get it only partially rite,  like on carbs.....:-)))
>
>GENE
>
>Bruce Plecan wrote:
>>
>> Only at CSH, HQ..
>> The bench problem I was having, turns out to have been a bad pot.
>> 30 oz Ball Peen took care of the recalibration.
>> Cheers
>> Bruce       The staff was just getting used to seeing LEDs flickering
>>                  and not having the fire department show up to turn them
>> off.
>
>--
>
>
>                                ____________
>Fun under the sun in          //~~~~~~~~~~~~\\
>Jacksonville, Fl.  :-)))     //______________\\
>                       /~~~---~   |      |   ~---~~~\
>                      /|    /______\____/______\    |\
>                    (( | /      |          |      \ | ))
>     Mako 'Vettes    | \============================/ |
> Shift better with   |\ \\[  ]    |mrvette|   [  ]// /|
>     Automatics      | \/+========================+\/ |
>                     |~==============================~|
>                     |_____|                    |_____|
>-------------------------------------------------------------------
>
Joe Boucher
'70 RS/SS Camaro  '81 TBI Suburban







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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Bench ecms
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 10:33:18 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: mrvette <mrvette@bellsouth.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, August 07, 1998 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: Bench ecms


>I am assuming you are a EE candidate at a minimun

Nope, total EE education is radio shack, and reading Forret Mimms.
As of late reading some other stuff.

, so I shouldn't have to say
>anything more than that the engine block is the ground for all sensors,
Not the
>body of the car....your starting sequence and the crazy currents through
the
>battery circuit and etc. could/would drive the computer crazy....and the
use of
>several grounds/+5volt wires is for the obvious ground/feed loop problems,
if
>you consider the various possibilities of inductive feedback from other
>hi-current wires...you can get my drift.....at any rate, wire it like it
says in
>the wiring diagrams from your local GM dealer's copy machine....they been
very
>good to me, when asked nicely.....GENE

>From your post the other day, (I think it was you), I thought you were
saying just divide them up, and tie them to the intake.  I've been a
follower of how the manual says to do it.
Cheers
Bruce
>
>Bruce Plecan wrote:
>>
>> I had been told the sensor grounds on a gm ecm floated in reference to
the
>> chassis ground, well that doesn't appear to be correct, everything is
just a
>> couple tenths of an ohm from true ground.
>> With no displayed voltage drops across grounds.
>> While still seperated, does it really matter if sensor grounds go to
>> chassis, on an actual car?.    If so then where Have I strayed to having
>> had sensor ground problems????....
>>
>> For coolant temp, and intake air temps, I was just going to share
>> resistances.  Tieing grounds together.
>>
>> For TPS, and MAP I was going to tie the grounds together, use the
>> +5 from one ecm, and then share the sensor's output.
>> YES/NO??????..
>>
>> Cheers
>> Bruce        RPM signals applied to both ecms, and powered up
>>                   leds flashed and no problems today.
>>                   The cat has grown boarded with the flashing LEDs,
>>                   but the staff is acting like their inna stupor.
>
>--
>
>
>                                ____________
>Fun under the sun in          //~~~~~~~~~~~~\\
>Jacksonville, Fl.  :-)))     //______________\\
>                       /~~~---~   |      |   ~---~~~\
>                      /|    /______\____/______\    |\
>                    (( | /      |          |      \ | ))
>     Mako 'Vettes    | \============================/ |
> Shift better with   |\ \\[  ]    |mrvette|   [  ]// /|
>     Automatics      | \/+========================+\/ |
>                     |~==============================~|
>                     |_____|                    |_____|
>-------------------------------------------------------------------
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug  7 10:40:55 1998
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Ok, I'll bite. I know who Bob Widler is, but the reference
escapes me.

Regards

Mike Turner wrote:
> 
> Sounds like a classic case of (Bob) Widlerizing.


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug  7 11:48:47 1998
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Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 11:47:35 -0400
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What I am trying to say, is  do it the factory wiring way....reguardless of the
wiring position in the car....they did it a certain way for ground loop reasons,
and stray currents (starting etc)   I'd hate to second guess another mans cost
driven design,  especially one that is proven to work.....:-)))        GENE

Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mrvette <mrvette@bellsouth.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Friday, August 07, 1998 9:12 AM
> Subject: Re: Bench ecms
> 
> >I am assuming you are a EE candidate at a minimun
> 
> Nope, total EE education is radio shack, and reading Forret Mimms.
> As of late reading some other stuff.
> 
> , so I shouldn't have to say
> >anything more than that the engine block is the ground for all sensors,
> Not the
> >body of the car....your starting sequence and the crazy currents through
> the
> >battery circuit and etc. could/would drive the computer crazy....and the
> use of
> >several grounds/+5volt wires is for the obvious ground/feed loop problems,
> if
> >you consider the various possibilities of inductive feedback from other
> >hi-current wires...you can get my drift.....at any rate, wire it like it
> says in
> >the wiring diagrams from your local GM dealer's copy machine....they been
> very
> >good to me, when asked nicely.....GENE
> 
> >From your post the other day, (I think it was you), I thought you were
> saying just divide them up, and tie them to the intake.  I've been a
> follower of how the manual says to do it.
> Cheers
> Bruce
> >
> >Bruce Plecan wrote:
> >>
> >> I had been told the sensor grounds on a gm ecm floated in reference to
> the
> >> chassis ground, well that doesn't appear to be correct, everything is
> just a
> >> couple tenths of an ohm from true ground.
> >> With no displayed voltage drops across grounds.
> >> While still seperated, does it really matter if sensor grounds go to
> >> chassis, on an actual car?.    If so then where Have I strayed to having
> >> had sensor ground problems????....
> >>
> >> For coolant temp, and intake air temps, I was just going to share
> >> resistances.  Tieing grounds together.
> >>
> >> For TPS, and MAP I was going to tie the grounds together, use the
> >> +5 from one ecm, and then share the sensor's output.
> >> YES/NO??????..
> >>
> >> Cheers
> >> Bruce        RPM signals applied to both ecms, and powered up
> >>                   leds flashed and no problems today.
> >>                   The cat has grown boarded with the flashing LEDs,
> >>                   but the staff is acting like their inna stupor.
> >
> >--
> >
> >
> >                                ____________
> >Fun under the sun in          //~~~~~~~~~~~~\\
> >Jacksonville, Fl.  :-)))     //______________\\
> >                       /~~~---~   |      |   ~---~~~\
> >                      /|    /______\____/______\    |\
> >                    (( | /      |          |      \ | ))
> >     Mako 'Vettes    | \============================/ |
> > Shift better with   |\ \\[  ]    |mrvette|   [  ]// /|
> >     Automatics      | \/+========================+\/ |
> >                     |~==============================~|
> >                     |_____|                    |_____|
> >-------------------------------------------------------------------
> >

-- 


                                ____________
Fun under the sun in          //~~~~~~~~~~~~\\
Jacksonville, Fl.  :-)))     //______________\\
                       /~~~---~   |      |   ~---~~~\
                      /|    /______\____/______\    |\
                    (( | /      |          |      \ | ))   
     Mako 'Vettes    | \============================/ |   
 Shift better with   |\ \\[  ]    |mrvette|   [  ]// /|
     Automatics      | \/+========================+\/ |
                     |~==============================~|
                     |_____|                    |_____|
-------------------------------------------------------------------

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug  7 11:54:16 1998
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From: "Mike Turner" <MikeTurner@kemet.com>
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Subject: Widlerizing
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Bob Pease in a recent issue of Electronic Design relates the Widlerizing
much better than I can but the gist was that Bob would take a failed
component that had caused him unusual grief to a vise, place the offending
component on the anvil part, and proceed to reduce it to very very very
small fragments using the proverbial pi pound hammer. This provided him
both some sense of retribution and assurance that that particular component
could never appear again to plague his designs. I will admit that this has
worked for me personally and that failure to Widlerize or throw away a bad
part almost guarantees its resurrection at some inopportune future date.
Unfortunately, universal application of Widlerizing to all offending
components in my universe seems to be frowned upon by the authorities.



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug  7 13:49:16 1998
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Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 18:52:11 +0100
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I recently had a case in reverse, I built a 2 rail voltage regulator and
negative supply generator, it worked fine when I tested it on battery but when
I connected to a mains adapter I forgot to allow for the peak ripple  --- the
7660 negative supply generator chip literally blew up ! with one hell of a
crack.

Mike Turner wrote:

> Bob Pease in a recent issue of Electronic Design relates the Widlerizing
> much better than I can but the gist was that Bob would take a failed
> component that had caused him unusual grief to a vise, place the offending
> component on the anvil part, and proceed to reduce it to very very very
> small fragments using the proverbial pi pound hammer. This provided him
> both some sense of retribution and assurance that that particular component
> could never appear again to plague his designs. I will admit that this has
> worked for me personally and that failure to Widlerize or throw away a bad
> part almost guarantees its resurrection at some inopportune future date.
> Unfortunately, universal application of Widlerizing to all offending
> components in my universe seems to be frowned upon by the authorities.




From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug  7 22:01:13 1998
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Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 21:09:08 -0500
From: Walter Petermann <corsaro@brokersys.com>
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Ok, so after trying to sound like the voice of experience responding to 
some of Bruce's questions what do I do?
I bought a GM map sensor and hooked it up to 12 volts! I was trying
to get output voltage vs vac input hoping to use it in my Jag ecms.
It took about 2 secs to notice the output reading over 8volts and figure
out why. I hooked it to 5v and was able to get a nice linear response.
Can I trust this or should I get a new one?

  Walter

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug  7 22:32:01 1998
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Date: Fri, 07 Aug 1998 21:43:21 -0500
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I did the same thing  when connecting a engine to a ECM. I had a GM 1 bar
sensor.   I connected the +5 volt wire to +12.  I didn't know it till the
engine didn't run well with a load.

The sensor worked fine after this ... for a  few days.  Then it shorted +5v
to the output.

The mistake did, however fry the ECM to PC cable instantly.


Chad



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To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject:  Motorola Phone Number
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 11:55:25 -0400
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After countless tries this worked for me to get a "pink book".


It's part of a forward.
Cheers
Bruce


It's proper "name" is M68HC11 Reference Manual, and its number is
M68HC11RM/AD. Mine is revision 3, but there may be a later one available.

In lieu of that, here is a toll-free number for the Literature Distribution
Department at Motor Roller:

 1-800-441-2447          (303-675-2140 non-toll free)

I gave'em a "business name", but I'm not entirely sure that's necessary.
Took less'en a week to get it to me too.



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  8 13:01:58 1998
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Date: Sat, 08 Aug 1998 12:09:43 -0500
From: Walter Petermann <corsaro@brokersys.com>
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Subject: Re: I'm looking at diagnosing problems with a L-Jetronic system
References: Conversation <85256657.00650264.00@smtpgw.kemet.com> with last message <85256657.00650264.00@smtpgw.kemet.com> <MAPI.Id.0016.00796e63687269733030303830303038@MAPI.to.RFC822> <35C8EC33.31CBBB1B@home.com>
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Hi Victor,
does the system have a working O2 sensor?
 
 Walter

Victor Tomanov wrote:
> 
> The ECU that controls my system doesn't have a diagnostic capacity. I'm
> at a loss at how to figure out if the ECU is running the motor correctly
> and if the mixture is realy what it should be. It seems rich. I'm
> looking for a way to modify the lean rich mixture variable either by
> taping into one of the sensors or adding a pot to the ECU. Does anyone
> have a working knowledge of this injecting system?
> Thanks for any help.

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  8 14:19:43 1998
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Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 14:22:36 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
From: Jim Lill <jpl@vectorbd.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: I'm looking at diagnosing problems with a L-Jetronic system
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I have a Bosch page that might help...

http://www.vectorbd.com/peugeot/bosch.html



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  8 14:45:31 1998
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From: "Zack" <zubenubi@inetport.com>
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Sorry for the digression, but does anybody else find Motorola's web 
site INCREDIBLY annoying and useless??  The vast majority of their 
spec sheets do not appear to be in any downloadable form whatsoever, 
and can only be obtained via their "fax on demand" system or as paper 
literature.  I really amazes me that they would rather spend money 
supporting the latter two rather than put all their stuff in the form 
of PDF's so people could obtain them via download at a cost to them 
of...  I would think, pennies on the dollar.
	 I guess I just wish everyone had a web site as useful and 
rationally organized as National Semiconductor's!


> From:          "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
> To:            <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Subject:       Motorola Phone Number
> Date:          Sat, 8 Aug 1998 11:55:25 -0400
> Reply-to:      diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

> After countless tries this worked for me to get a "pink book".
> 
> 
> It's part of a forward.
> Cheers
> Bruce
> 
> 
> It's proper "name" is M68HC11 Reference Manual, and its number is
> M68HC11RM/AD. Mine is revision 3, but there may be a later one available.
> 
> In lieu of that, here is a toll-free number for the Literature Distribution
> Department at Motor Roller:
> 
>  1-800-441-2447          (303-675-2140 non-toll free)
> 
> I gave'em a "business name", but I'm not entirely sure that's necessary.
> Took less'en a week to get it to me too.
> 
> 
> 
**************
To every difficult question there is a simple, easy to explain wrong answer.

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  8 15:57:09 1998
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Date: Sat, 08 Aug 1998 17:54:26 +0100
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To: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: In a state of Euphoria 
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I have just started to use the shareware Euphoria language for grabing
data from my data logger via the parrallel port, I am very impressed it
is very  very fast for a high level language and has good library
rountines written by users  for grabing, clearing and setting both bytes
and individual bits.
Running as either a compiled or interpreted language Euphoria exists in
both DOS and Win32 forms and the support from other users is very good.
For more info and download the web site is
http://members.aol.com/FilesEu/



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  8 18:13:41 1998
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Date: Sat, 08 Aug 1998 18:14:26 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Kenneth Bailey <iflyrc@bellsouth.net>
Subject: [rx-7] ECU
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Sorry guys, I'm not to sure how you set the subject in this group. If I
have done it incorrectly please show me the way :)

Ok, I want to reprogram the 86 RX-7 ECU for power and so fourth. Can you
please help me or point me to some one who can. 

Please don't sent me to a 3-400.00 some body else sell's the chip.

I'm cheap and want to DIM ...


Ken

86 Candy Apple Red

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  8 20:16:23 1998
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Subject: Need help with Mallory Unilite distributor
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Anyone have the wiring diagram for a Mallory Unilite distributor? The
harness has 3 wires: brown, green, red...I _think_ it was brown, got
kinda dark when I was looking underhood. BTW it's a mech-advance unit
for a Pontiac motor.

-Ed

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  8 21:09:58 1998
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Date: Sat, 08 Aug 1998 21:11:10 -0400
From: Daniel & Laura Burk <ws6transam@voyager.net>
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There's too much flaming on this list.
I'm gone.

--- Cheers,
                Dan


--
Daniel & Laura      email:     ws6transam@voyager.net
     Burk           Web site:  http://www.isthq.com/~dan
  Haslett,MI        Car stuff: http://www.isthq.com/~dan/fcar.html

Dan's current interests:
'84 Pontiac Trans Am L69/WS6 (The sun car)
'89 Honda VTR 250 Interceptor(Commuter bike)
 The ultimate garage (Due some time in the fall?)
Baby girl! Julia Burk: Born on the 25th of June. See the home page-



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  8 21:13:05 1998
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> Just for grins, has any other people around here bye chance figured
> out a good cheap way of coming up with a reasonable priced way of
> coming up with a non-centrifugal blower???

take a turbo from a mack truck (they give them away at some truck repair
shops and junkyards) which is toasted.. or good. sometimes the only
problem is the exhaust housing is cracked, which is OK. remove the exhaust
housing and cut the exhaust turbine down into a cylinder shape of a small
diameter using a die grinder and bench grinder; but dont grind all the way
into the "hub" just cut away all the fins, leaving a smooth surface where
the fins protruded (the turbine is iron). using quality bearings like
those found in a skateboard (or those found in a skateboard) support the
nub on its end. you'll have to build a stout bracket for this. basically,
you want to make the exhaust side of the turbo look like the business end
of an OEM starter, that is with the "gear" supported from both ends.
using a drill (to spin the impeller) and a die grinder and steady hand (to
cut grooves) cut grooves into the turbine nub to match serpentine belts.
not the toothed kind mind you, the multi-V groove used to drive
accessories. these are flat on one side and have grooves running the
length of the belt on the other. 

mount the assembly on your engine and connect a belt to it. carry spares.

-jake



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  8 21:15:12 1998
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oops that was a centifugal blower. you wanted a non centrifugal blower.

okay, take apart 144 oil pumps from PRV V6 engines...


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  8 22:36:08 1998
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Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 22:35:29 EDT
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Subject: Re: Need help with Mallory Unilite distributor
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Hi Folks I'm back,
     Red goes to coil +       Green to coil -        brown to ground
after starting it check to see that coil + shows 7-9 volts if it's higher you
will need a ballast resistor.  The voltage can be higher with a stock gm coil,
most aftermarket coils are wound different and let too much current through to
the - side of coil and smokes the unilite module, thus the need for a ballast
resistor.....the red wire can actually handle the 12-14 volts but it is the
green/trigger wire that has to be controlled. Again the ballast goes on the
coil + wire between your ign switch and coil +......hope that helps
-Carl Summers

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  8 23:19:03 1998
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In a message dated 8/8/98 9:24:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ws6transam@voyager.net writes:

> There's too much flaming on this list.
>  I'm gone.

Hey! wait! Before you go, you gonna be need'n that Nomex suit?
Mike V
smores anyone?

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  8 23:27:29 1998
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Re: non-centrifugal blowers
1. Try the original source for the original hot-rodders: All Detroit Diesel
2 cycle engines use a Roots type blower. Size varies with the sixe and
number of cylinders in the particular engine. E.G.: 3-53 up to 16-92 (or
larger). The first number us the number of cylinders, the second is the CID
per cylinder. Used Jimmy diesels are as common as  belly buttons in the
right graveyards.
2. Try used air compressor (dry-type, screw-type) air ends.
3. For new, try talking to Kobelco compressors in IN about a dry, screw
type compressor.
4. Blower Drive Service catalogue will give you an idea as to the
displacement per revolution of various Jimmy blowers.



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  8 23:28:49 1998
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Date: Sat, 08 Aug 1998 19:21:19 -0500
From: Steve Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
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Subject: Re: Need help with Mallory Unilite distributor
References: <89a507d9.35cd0af2@aol.com>
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Hi Carl

Nice to see you back with the group.

Steve

EFISYSTEMS@aol.com wrote:

> Hi Folks I'm back,
>      Red goes to coil +       Green to coil -        brown to ground
> after starting it check to see that coil + shows 7-9 volts if it's higher you
> will need a ballast resistor.  The voltage can be higher with a stock gm coil,
> most aftermarket coils are wound different and let too much current through to
> the - side of coil and smokes the unilite module, thus the need for a ballast
> resistor.....the red wire can actually handle the 12-14 volts but it is the
> green/trigger wire that has to be controlled. Again the ballast goes on the
> coil + wire between your ign switch and coil +......hope that helps
> -Carl Summers




From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug  8 23:44:00 1998
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Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 23:53:30 -0400
From: Jason Weir <jweir@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject: BMW M3 Chip
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Just by any chance does anyone know what kind of chip the newer BMW M3's
Use?  For example the GM 747 uses a 2732A EPROM  I need to know what the
M3 uses?  Thanks Jason

--
Jason Weir
88 Wrangler - 258 Chevy TBI
Fayetteville, North Carolina
http://home.att.net/~jweir
mailto:jweir@worldnet.att.net



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 00:56:42 1998
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From: "Tony" <amexon@ozemail.com.au>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Ford EEC IV Computers
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 14:44:27 +1000
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Does anyone know if all EEC IV computers as fitted to Ford vehicles are the
same (interchangeable)?
Do they all have the same part number?
Do they have different part numbers for different vehicles?

I believe mine might be faulty and as my model of vehicle (1986 5.0 litre
F150) is uncommon in Australia, I would like to know whether or not I can
just take one from another Ford that uses an EEC IV.

Thanks in advance,
Tony


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 02:53:25 1998
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Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 00:56:10 -0600
From: Shannen Durphey <Shannen@mcn.net>
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Subject: programming 101 and checksum
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Memory location 0x004 is listed as the checksum enable for
7747 ecm. This value is $42 in my factory files.  Does
anyone know what the value is to disable checksum?  Also,
this location in 8747 ecm contains the value $4F.  Is it
safe to assume this is checksum enable for this ecm?
Thanks 

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 05:48:37 1998
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Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 19:54:32 +1000
From: Justin Albury <jalbury@tpgi.com.au>
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Subject: Subaru Dizzy ..?????
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Hi all

Has anyone had any experence with Subaru AE92 Turbo Dizzy's

Ive wired up the whole system (using an autronics system)

ok problem is:

with the dizzy in and cranking over I get the 4x trigger and no 1x (TDC)
trigger.....now the funny thing is that it i pull the dizzy out and spin
it around by hand it all works fine.....even with a earth strap hooked
up in the same location ......now explain that?????


any thoughts???

Juz!

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 06:58:11 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: programming 101 and checksum
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-----Original Message-----
From: Shannen Durphey <Shannen@mcn.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, August 09, 1998 3:13 AM
Subject: programming 101 and checksum


>Memory location 0x004 is listed as the checksum enable for
>7747 ecm. This value is $42 in my factory files.  Does
>anyone know what the value is to disable checksum? 

AA

 Also,
>this location in 8747 ecm contains the value $4F.  Is it
>safe to assume this is checksum enable for this ecm?

I don't know, could try a chip with AA entry and see

Bruce

>Thanks 
>
>Shannen
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 08:41:21 1998
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Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 08:44:17 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
From: Jim Lill <jpl@vectorbd.com>
To: DIY_EFI <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: BMW M3 Chip
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On Sun, 9 Aug 1998, Jason Weir wrote:

> Just by any chance does anyone know what kind of chip the newer BMW M3's
> Use?  For example the GM 747 uses a 2732A EPROM  I need to know what the
> M3 uses?  Thanks Jason
> 
 I believe it might be a 28F200 (big huh?).... you might want to look at: 

http://www.allcarracing.com/eng/kit03.htm



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 11:22:16 1998
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Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 10:21:34 -0500
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Donald Whisnant <dewhisna@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Motorola Phone Number
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>
>From: "Zack" <zubenubi@inetport.com>
>Date: Sat, 8 Aug 1998 13:53:04 -0600
>Subject: Re: Motorola Phone Number
>
>Sorry for the digression, but does anybody else find Motorola's web 
>site INCREDIBLY annoying and useless??  The vast majority of their 
>spec sheets do not appear to be in any downloadable form whatsoever, 
>and can only be obtained via their "fax on demand" system or as paper 
>literature.  I really amazes me that they would rather spend money 
>supporting the latter two rather than put all their stuff in the form 
>of PDF's so people could obtain them via download at a cost to them 
>of...  I would think, pennies on the dollar.
>	I guess I just wish everyone had a web site as useful and 
>rationally organized as National Semiconductor's!
>
>

Yes it is incredibly annoying and almost impossible to find anything...
There are actually a lot more PDF files on there than it leads you to
believe there are...  In fact the entire M68HC11 Reference Manual
(M68HC11RM/AD) aka "pink book" is on there as a PDF...  And so
are the series specific books like the "e-series", "n-series", etc of
the HC11...  ...  Don't ask me what the URL is, the last several
times I've been back on there looking for HC11 info I couldn't find
it again...  But keep looking, because they are on there...  You
almost have to click on every html link on the site to find anything...

Good luck...
Donald Whisnant
dewhisna@ix.netcom.com


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 12:36:35 1998
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Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 12:30:21 -0400
From: Victor Tomanov <vtomanov@home.com>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: I'm looking at diagnosing problems with a L-Jetronic system
References: Conversation <85256657.00650264.00@smtpgw.kemet.com> with last message <85256657.00650264.00@smtpgw.kemet.com> <MAPI.Id.0016.00796e63687269733030303830303038@MAPI.to.RFC822> <35C8EC33.31CBBB1B@home.com> <35CC8657.FB94B1ED@brokersys.com>
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I haven't found any specs on the sensor to test it. This is a Toyota
Supra. How would you test it with an ohm meter at hot and cold temp?

Walter Petermann wrote:
> 
> Hi Victor,
> does the system have a working O2 sensor?
> 
>  Walter
> 
> Victor Tomanov wrote:
> >
> > The ECU that controls my system doesn't have a diagnostic capacity. I'm
> > at a loss at how to figure out if the ECU is running the motor correctly
> > and if the mixture is realy what it should be. It seems rich. I'm
> > looking for a way to modify the lean rich mixture variable either by
> > taping into one of the sensors or adding a pot to the ECU. Does anyone
> > have a working knowledge of this injecting system?
> > Thanks for any help.

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 13:00:55 1998
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Subaru Dizzy ..?????
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>Hi all
>
>Has anyone had any experence with Subaru AE92 Turbo Dizzy's
>
>Ive wired up the whole system (using an autronics system)
>
>ok problem is:
>
>with the dizzy in and cranking over I get the 4x trigger and no 1x (TDC)
>trigger.....now the funny thing is that it i pull the dizzy out and spin
>it around by hand it all works fine.....even with a earth strap hooked
>up in the same location ......now explain that?????
>
>
>any thoughts???
>
>Juz!
I don't know poop about your particular engine--but it seems to me that
perhaps if your 4x trigger signal is coming from a sensor located elsewhere
than in the dizzy (flywheel?), and that mebbe the dizzy ain't being turned
when its installed in the motor? Have you checked this out? Might be time
to put away the crimpers and VOM and break out the spanners! If that isn't
it ??????????



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 13:34:50 1998
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Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 10:34:27 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Vance Rose <javer96@snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: programming 101 and checksum
In-Reply-To: <002301bdc385$00a4a9e0$48198fd1@nacelp>
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At 07:01 AM 8/9/98 -0400, you wrote:
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Shannen Durphey <Shannen@mcn.net>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Sunday, August 09, 1998 3:13 AM
>Subject: programming 101 and checksum
>
>
>>Memory location 0x004 is listed as the checksum enable for
>>7747 ecm. This value is $42 in my factory files.  Does
>>anyone know what the value is to disable checksum? 
>
>AA
>
> Also,
>>this location in 8747 ecm contains the value $4F.  Is it
>>safe to assume this is checksum enable for this ecm?
>
>I don't know, could try a chip with AA entry and see
>
>Bruce
>
>>Thanks 
>>
>>Shannen
>>
>
>Hi All

	If ya have time - just disassemble code. The checksum is usually early in
program section. Being a novice it was one of my first finds for 165 ecm.


Vance

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 13:35:18 1998
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From: "Jake Lindeke" <jlindeke@bsfh.org>
Organization: Supra Owners Group International
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 13:41:47 -0400
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Subject: Re: I'm looking at diagnosing problems with a L-Jetronic system
Priority: normal
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These questions would be better sent to the toyota supra mailing list 
www.supras.com

> I haven't found any specs on the sensor to test it. This is a Toyota
> Supra. How would you test it with an ohm meter at hot and cold temp?
> 
> Walter Petermann wrote:
> > 
> > Hi Victor,
> > does the system have a working O2 sensor?
> > 
> >  Walter
> > 
> > Victor Tomanov wrote:
> > >
> > > The ECU that controls my system doesn't have a diagnostic capacity.
> > > I'm at a loss at how to figure out if the ECU is running the motor
> > > correctly and if the mixture is realy what it should be. It seems
> > > rich. I'm looking for a way to modify the lean rich mixture variable
> > > either by taping into one of the sensors or adding a pot to the ECU.
> > > Does anyone have a working knowledge of this injecting system? Thanks
> > > for any help.

there is a vf1 signal on the diag port. if hook a multi meter to it. i cant rember 
what each voltage means but i think the range is 1v - 5v one meaning really 
lean, 2 kinda lean, 3 perfect, 4 kinda rich, 5 really rich.  this works for all toyota 
cars and trucks.  


--Jake Lindeke
--SOGI South-East Chapter Coordinator
--http://sesogi.bsfh.org

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 13:47:33 1998
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Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 13:50:31 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
From: Jim Lill <jpl@vectorbd.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: I'm looking at diagnosing problems with a L-Jetronic system
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do you wish to run richer for boost considerations?


-Jim Lill  http://www.vectorbd.com/users/jpl



On Sun, 9 Aug 1998, Victor Tomanov wrote:

> I haven't found any specs on the sensor to test it. This is a Toyota
> Supra. How would you test it with an ohm meter at hot and cold temp?
> 
> Walter Petermann wrote:
> > 
> > Hi Victor,
> > does the system have a working O2 sensor?
> > 
> >  Walter
> > 
> > Victor Tomanov wrote:
> > >
> > > The ECU that controls my system doesn't have a diagnostic capacity. I'm
> > > at a loss at how to figure out if the ECU is running the motor correctly
> > > and if the mixture is realy what it should be. It seems rich. I'm
> > > looking for a way to modify the lean rich mixture variable either by
> > > taping into one of the sensors or adding a pot to the ECU. Does anyone
> > > have a working knowledge of this injecting system?
> > > Thanks for any help.
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 13:58:51 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Benching ecms
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 14:01:50 -0400
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With both ecms "running" having the +5v for the sensors tied together
seems to generate "No Smoke". 

Next question, does this only work with both ecms powered up?.
  Can I have them wired like this and be running only one at a time?.
Seems like there is enough internal resistance to the off ecm not 
to hurt things, but I only did this momentarily.

Would the real answer be using ganged pots?.  I've tried looking in
my digi-key, and a couple other catalogs, but turned up no sources.

When doing pulse generators, is it better to use a 558, and use a
4017 for getting low rpm signals?.   For those veiwing from afar
the reason is that I need to get accurate 200 rpm steps.  The gms
from what I read do interpolation from one step to the next for
timing etc, so I gots to be close, to read changes accurately.

Much more and it seems like a commercial used freguency generator
will be the answer.  So if ya got a working gen please e-mail me.

Thanks again 
Bruce               nacelp@bright.net


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 14:48:17 1998
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Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 13:46:41 -0500
From: Roger Heflin <rah@horizon.hit.net>
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Subject: Replaced Dist ign system with SDI system, and computer running very different
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Hey,

I have a 93 Z28 LT1.  I have a custom computer reprogram.   I replaced
the stock (probably worn out) OPTIspark (basically distributor with some optical sensors
for better timing) with a SDI ignition system.  The SDI system has 1 coil per 2
cylinders.  

Before the SDI system:

Idleing out of gear:
	Learns: 113/124   Integrators: 108/114
	Injectors 2.1 +- .1 or so.  
	O2 sensors are cycling pretty regularly. 150-950 mv

Idleing in gear:
	Learns: 128/129   Integrators: 122/122
	Injectors: 2.5 +- .1 or so.
	O2 sensors are cycling pretty regularly. 150-950mv

After the SDI:

Idleing out of gear:
	Learns: 108/108   Integratros: 1/1
	Injectors 1.7 (not really changing)
	O2 sensors are mostly rich.  Some cycling.

Idleing in Gear:
	Learns:  108/108  Integrators: 110/70
	Injectors: 2.1 +- 1 
	O2 sensors less rich than above, cycling is 
	lower frequency than before the sdi, but there
	is cycling.

I do have the before and after diacom runs.

The learns seem to stop at 108, my guess is that at idle before I
was having alot of missfires from a aged ign. system, and now that
is no longer the case.  Originally the guy doing the reprogramming
adjusted the injector (I had new bigger injectors) until the block
learns looked reasonable.  Now with the new ign system, things are 
running significantly different, so it did change something.  Also before the gas mileage
was really poor, 4-5 mph off what I thought
it should have been, it will take about a week or so for me to get enough miles to
determine if the gas mileage has changed.  Is this a reasonable conclusion given the
data?   And if it is a reasonable conclusion does anyone know the address and format of
the injector size in a 93 Z28 GM prom?  I have the necessary tools if I knew where the
injector size was.

			Thanks
			Roger Heflin
			93 Z28
			rah@horizon.hit.net

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 14:49:43 1998
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Subject: Re: Benching ecms
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What you're looking for is called a function generator.
If you've got a scope to keep an eye on freq you can jive 
one together with a 555 for practically nothing. Rat Shack 
has timer how-to. CMOS COOKBOOK also covers 555 apps.

Regards, Jack


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 16:18:50 1998
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Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 16:18:05 -0400
From: Thomas Matthews <tmatthew@stny.lrun.com>
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Can a 90-92 7730 ECM run a early LT1? Specifically, can it understand
the ignition system without any extra programming? I would swap this
engine into my 3rd gen Bird which has TPI, this way I could keep the
orig harness and not have to learn how to program the later ECM's...
Don't the 92-94 LT1's have something different than the 95-up Optispark?
TIA
Tom

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 16:48:56 1998
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Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 14:51:11 -0600
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Vance Rose wrote:
> 
> At 07:01 AM 8/9/98 -0400, you wrote:
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Shannen Durphey <Shannen@mcn.net>
> >To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> >Date: Sunday, August 09, 1998 3:13 AM
> >Subject: programming 101 and checksum
> >
> >
> >>Memory location 0x004 is listed as the checksum enable for
> >>7747 ecm. This value is $42 in my factory files.  Does
> >>anyone know what the value is to disable checksum?
> >
> >AA
> >
> > Also,
> >>this location in 8747 ecm contains the value $4F.  Is it
> >>safe to assume this is checksum enable for this ecm?
> >
> >I don't know, could try a chip with AA entry and see
> >
> >Bruce
> >
> >>Thanks
> >>
> >>Shannen
> >>
> >
> >Hi All
> 
>         If ya have time - just disassemble code. The checksum is usually early in
> program section. Being a novice it was one of my first finds for 165 ecm.
> 
> Vance

Ummm, you make it sound so easy, I wish I knew what you
meant.  I've looked at disassembled code on Ludis' site, and
it's pretty much Greek to me.  So where's a guy to go to
learn more?

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 17:40:27 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Replaced Dist ign system with SDI system, and computer running very different
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 17:43:43 -0400
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From: Roger Heflin <rah@horizon.hit.net>
Subject: Replaced Dist ign system with SDI system, and computer running very
different


  Now with the new ign system, things are
>running significantly different, so it did change something.
 Is this a reasonable conclusion given the
>data?
Is this a stock cam??..

If a non-stock cam, then seems like the plug firing at overlap might be
and emission aid.

Amazing results,  were the plugs changed?.   Was this just coils, and
wires (plus electronics)?.

Wonder if the gm is limiting the coil output somehow on the the oem
coil or if there was a RFI problem with a good coil

  And if it is a reasonable conclusion does anyone know the address and
format of
>the injector size in a 93 Z28 GM prom?  I have the necessary tools if I
knew where the
>injector size was.
>
> Thanks
> Roger Heflin
> 93 Z28
> rah@horizon.hit.net
>

Thanks for the results
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 17:46:01 1998
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Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 17:44:30 -0400
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Subject: Re: LT1 swap
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I am told from the vette-net that the Lt1 and opti-crap have a differant
computer interface than a normal computer HEI  such as talkes to a L98  or
1227730 computer.....
You MAY be able to install another distr. from an earlier model into the late
Lt1  but I'm not sure of this....at a minimum you may have to drill a hole into
the intake manifold.....GENE

Thomas Matthews wrote:
> 
> Can a 90-92 7730 ECM run a early LT1? Specifically, can it understand
> the ignition system without any extra programming? I would swap this
> engine into my 3rd gen Bird which has TPI, this way I could keep the
> orig harness and not have to learn how to program the later ECM's...
> Don't the 92-94 LT1's have something different than the 95-up Optispark?
> TIA
> Tom

-- 


                                ____________
Fun under the sun in          //~~~~~~~~~~~~\\
Jacksonville, Fl.  :-)))     //______________\\
                       /~~~---~   |      |   ~---~~~\
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                    (( | /      |          |      \ | ))   
     Mako 'Vettes    | \============================/ |   
 Shift better with   |\ \\[  ]    |mrvette|   [  ]// /|
     Automatics      | \/+========================+\/ |
                     |~==============================~|
                     |_____|                    |_____|
-------------------------------------------------------------------

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 17:55:28 1998
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Subject: Re: LT1 swap
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All LT1's use the Opticrap ignition. They did change the computer in 94.  94 to
97 LT1's used the 8051 PCM. and include sequential injection & control of the
4L60E trans. The 92 & 93 used an earlier Batch fire computer with a 700R4. I
don't know the Code for this ECM, but the LT1 definitly included an OptiSpark.

		Ken

Thomas Matthews wrote:
> 
> Can a 90-92 7730 ECM run a early LT1? Specifically, can it understand
> the ignition system without any extra programming? I would swap this
> engine into my 3rd gen Bird which has TPI, this way I could keep the
> orig harness and not have to learn how to program the later ECM's...
> Don't the 92-94 LT1's have something different than the 95-up Optispark?
> TIA
> Tom

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 19:11:57 1998
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It's an 82. These cars made in Japan did not have the Diagnostic side of
the Computer installed nor did it come with a check engine light. It's
the most frusterating part of the car. I used to be on the Supra list
but now need a wizard to pick mail relevant to what I'm interested in.
Until then I just goto the Web page for info. The car doesn't cold start
and I'm sure it's to do with air, (cold start injector fires fine) the
Idle air bypass is what I'm looking at as a problem but I would love to
talk to someone who has played with these devices and know how to check
them beond what the books say. Info like flow through valve and percent
close when cold would be great. I'll get back on the Supra List and see
if anyone has any ideas.
Thanks, VIc.

Jake Lindeke wrote:
> 
> These questions would be better sent to the toyota supra mailing list
> www.supras.com
> 
> > I haven't found any specs on the sensor to test it. This is a Toyota
> > Supra. How would you test it with an ohm meter at hot and cold temp?
> >
> > Walter Petermann wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Victor,
> > > does the system have a working O2 sensor?
> > >
> > >  Walter
> > >
> > > Victor Tomanov wrote:
> > > >
> > > > The ECU that controls my system doesn't have a diagnostic capacity.
> > > > I'm at a loss at how to figure out if the ECU is running the motor
> > > > correctly and if the mixture is realy what it should be. It seems
> > > > rich. I'm looking for a way to modify the lean rich mixture variable
> > > > either by taping into one of the sensors or adding a pot to the ECU.
> > > > Does anyone have a working knowledge of this injecting system? Thanks
> > > > for any help.
> 
> there is a vf1 signal on the diag port. if hook a multi meter to it. i cant rember
> what each voltage means but i think the range is 1v - 5v one meaning really
> lean, 2 kinda lean, 3 perfect, 4 kinda rich, 5 really rich.  this works for all toyota
> cars and trucks.
> 
> --Jake Lindeke
> --SOGI South-East Chapter Coordinator
> --http://sesogi.bsfh.org

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 19:28:51 1998
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-> (M68HC11RM/AD) aka "pink book" is on there as a PDF...  And so
-> are the series specific books like the "e-series", "n-series", etc of

 PDFs are absolutely useless to me.  As far as I can tell they're just
pictures, like .GIFs or .JPEGs.  I can view a PDF in Adobe's fat, slow
picture viewer thing, or I can print it, but I can't extract any data to
cut and paste into my notes or source code.  I suppose I could dump a
PDF to the printer, scan it, OCR it, and proofread it, but I'd just as
soon find a vendor that knows how to provide data in a normal ASCII
format.
                                                                                                                             

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 20:05:14 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, amexon@ozemail.com.au
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Subject: Re: Ford EEC IV Computers/Intel- Motorola # ?
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In a message dated 98-08-09 01:03:48 EDT, amexon@ozemail.com.au writes:

>Does anyone know if all EEC IV computers as fitted to Ford vehicles are the
>same (interchangeable)?
>Do they all have the same part number?
>Do they have different part numbers for different vehicles?
>
>I believe mine might be faulty and as my model of vehicle (1986 5.0 litre
>F150) is uncommon in Australia, I would like to know whether or not I can
>just take one from another Ford that uses an EEC IV.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Tony
>
>

Not all Ford EEC- IV computers are the same. Ford uses a soldered in prom so
every engine/trans/ body has a different #.  Though there are basic series of
computers with different part # and the same computer board.

Look on the sticker in the area that says " EEC-IV" near by there will be a
fuel system code. Also heat stamped( not the molded connecter # ) on the ECM
connecter there will be a engineering # , this should be the base un programed
ECM #.  

You may be able to get a ECM that is more common then swap your PROM

 From my stack of Ford computers come these codes:

Code on
sticker               Car                            Engineering #
Part #

CFI-SD         86 LTD V6 T body inj       E4LB-14A624-BB
E4VF-12A650-E1A
                    Map system

EFI-TC5       85 XR4Ti 2.3 Turbo          E5ZB-14A624-AA
E5ZF-12A650-K1A
                   Multi port inj Bosch
                   L Jet flap air meter

FBC-DLX5   85 Ranger Tk 2.8 V6         E4LB-14A624-AC
E57F-12A650-C1A

CFI-SD11   88 Escort 1.9 T body         E6D8-14A624-MA          E7EF-12A650-BC
                 inj MAP air flow

EFI-MA35G  90 Explorer V6                E9AF-14A624-AA
F07F-12A650-ABB

Now for my question. Anyone have a interchange for a Intel Prom or Motorola
chips?  ( I tried the Intel web page, all they show are PC CPU chips and the
Motorola page didnot show  a 81C61A chip).  I'm mostly interested in the
Merkur chip info.

The Escort ECM has a windowed Prom "D8763-1     N73120FRN    S56014"  With a
big dotted " i " to the left. Intel?  The sticker on the outside of the ECM
says 32K Prom.   The CPU is a Motorolla 81C61-A,  A Motor web search showed
nothing.

The Merkur XR4Ti  has a silk screened rectangle around the outside of one
chip, ( enough room that a socket could be installed and still show the notch
for chip orientation).      No window on the chip " 6128B-1895   8001EN083"
With a big " T " on the left.   There is also another chip "78001FEN085" with
a big " i " to the left, Intel? the chip also says " ( symbol for copyright)
Fo Mo Co "  and " (symbol for copyright) ' 80.

The Ranger ECM has the "78001FEN085" Intel chip. The silk screened rectangle
chip says " 8001EN063 < not my typo)  8430A C251353   NCR 6093800062 "

The Explorer ECM  has a "87C 66  480   N74130FEC " windowed PROM  and a 81C62A
chip.

Thanks

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 20:12:14 1998
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Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 19:11:40 -0500 (CDT)
From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Replaced Dist ign system with SDI system, and computer running very different
In-Reply-To: <011f01bdc3de$c897f5c0$66198fd1@nacelp>
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On Sun, 9 Aug 1998, Bruce Plecan wrote:
> From: Roger Heflin <rah@horizon.hit.net>
> Subject: Replaced Dist ign system with SDI system, and computer running very
> different
> 
>   Now with the new ign system, things are
> >running significantly different, so it did change something.
>  Is this a reasonable conclusion given the
> >data?
> Is this a stock cam??..
> 
> If a non-stock cam, then seems like the plug firing at overlap might be
> and emission aid.

Non-stock cam.  The cam I have is a bit larger.

> 
> Amazing results,  were the plugs changed?.   Was this just coils, and
> wires (plus electronics)?.
> 

The plugs only had about 5k on them.  The whole system (ign) was replaced,
including wires.  It went from dist to 1 coil/2 cylinders.  The optispark
(dist) had 110k on it.  On other LT1 cars these things have been wearing
out in much less than that, so it could be the reason why my gas mileage
has continually dropped since the car was new.  


> Wonder if the gm is limiting the coil output somehow on the the oem
> coil or if there was a RFI problem with a good coil
> 

I am going to have to see what the gas mileage.  Does anyone know if 
having the timing changed would cause this kind of differences in fuel
usage?   The car sounds the same, and I did some tests, and power is
pretty close to the same.

			Roger


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 20:18:56 1998
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Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 19:18:09 -0500 (CDT)
From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: LT1 swap
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On Sun, 9 Aug 1998, Thomas Matthews wrote:

> Can a 90-92 7730 ECM run a early LT1? Specifically, can it understand
> the ignition system without any extra programming? I would swap this
> engine into my 3rd gen Bird which has TPI, this way I could keep the
> orig harness and not have to learn how to program the later ECM's...
> Don't the 92-94 LT1's have something different than the 95-up Optispark?
> TIA
> Tom
> 

They all have optisparks.  The 95+ have a vacuum host added to evacuate
the optispark and hopefully keep it dry.  I have just installed a fully
electronic ignition system that tricks the computer into thinking it works
like the optispark.  I am still uncertain how well it is working.  It
siginficantly changed how the car was running, in terms of how much fuel
the car was used at idle.    The web page for it is:
www.electromotive-inc.com.   The price for it is $799 (with the hardware
to fool the optispark computer).  Without the optispark fooler is is
somewhat cheaper.  I will update everyone on how well my work with this
thing goes.

			Roger 
			93 Z28


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 21:15:02 1998
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Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 21:17:48 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
From: Jim Lill <jpl@vectorbd.com>
To: Victor Tomanov <vtomanov@home.com>
cc: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: I'm looking at diagnosing problems with a L-Jetronic system
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Bosch supplies a few replacement parts but they do not list Toyota ECU's. 

Watson lists Toyota as a L-Jet user in his book but no specifics.

No L-Jet that I know of that was used in a US-spec euro-car has any form
of diagnostics and as the ECU has no uProcessor, it would be tough for it
to have any. 

Do you access to Watson's nook ISBN 0-87938-570-7 ? He has a good
section on L-Jet repair etc.

-Jim Lill  http://www.vectorbd.com/users/jpl




From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 21:15:45 1998
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Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 17:08:36 -0500
From: Steve Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
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Subject: Re: Ford EEC IV Computers/Intel- Motorola # ?
References: <45c3d30a.35ce3900@aol.com>
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The chip is non-standard  and they normally use a add-on board to change  the
table values and plugs into the service plug on the side of box .

Steve

AL8001@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 98-08-09 01:03:48 EDT, amexon@ozemail.com.au writes:
>
> >Does anyone know if all EEC IV computers as fitted to Ford vehicles are the
> >same (interchangeable)?
> >Do they all have the same part number?
> >Do they have different part numbers for different vehicles?
> >
> >I believe mine might be faulty and as my model of vehicle (1986 5.0 litre
> >F150) is uncommon in Australia, I would like to know whether or not I can
> >just take one from another Ford that uses an EEC IV.
> >
> >Thanks in advance,
> >Tony
> >
> >
>
> Not all Ford EEC- IV computers are the same. Ford uses a soldered in prom so
> every engine/trans/ body has a different #.  Though there are basic series of
> computers with different part # and the same computer board.
>
> Look on the sticker in the area that says " EEC-IV" near by there will be a
> fuel system code. Also heat stamped( not the molded connecter # ) on the ECM
> connecter there will be a engineering # , this should be the base un programed
> ECM #.
>
> You may be able to get a ECM that is more common then swap your PROM
>
>  From my stack of Ford computers come these codes:
>
> Code on
> sticker               Car                            Engineering #
> Part #
>
> CFI-SD         86 LTD V6 T body inj       E4LB-14A624-BB
> E4VF-12A650-E1A
>                     Map system
>
> EFI-TC5       85 XR4Ti 2.3 Turbo          E5ZB-14A624-AA
> E5ZF-12A650-K1A
>                    Multi port inj Bosch
>                    L Jet flap air meter
>
> FBC-DLX5   85 Ranger Tk 2.8 V6         E4LB-14A624-AC
> E57F-12A650-C1A
>
> CFI-SD11   88 Escort 1.9 T body         E6D8-14A624-MA          E7EF-12A650-BC
>                  inj MAP air flow
>
> EFI-MA35G  90 Explorer V6                E9AF-14A624-AA
> F07F-12A650-ABB
>
> Now for my question. Anyone have a interchange for a Intel Prom or Motorola
> chips?  ( I tried the Intel web page, all they show are PC CPU chips and the
> Motorola page didnot show  a 81C61A chip).  I'm mostly interested in the
> Merkur chip info.
>
> The Escort ECM has a windowed Prom "D8763-1     N73120FRN    S56014"  With a
> big dotted " i " to the left. Intel?  The sticker on the outside of the ECM
> says 32K Prom.   The CPU is a Motorolla 81C61-A,  A Motor web search showed
> nothing.
>
> The Merkur XR4Ti  has a silk screened rectangle around the outside of one
> chip, ( enough room that a socket could be installed and still show the notch
> for chip orientation).      No window on the chip " 6128B-1895   8001EN083"
> With a big " T " on the left.   There is also another chip "78001FEN085" with
> a big " i " to the left, Intel? the chip also says " ( symbol for copyright)
> Fo Mo Co "  and " (symbol for copyright) ' 80.
>
> The Ranger ECM has the "78001FEN085" Intel chip. The silk screened rectangle
> chip says " 8001EN063 < not my typo)  8430A C251353   NCR 6093800062 "
>
> The Explorer ECM  has a "87C 66  480   N74130FEC " windowed PROM  and a 81C62A
> chip.
>
> Thanks




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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Replaced Dist ign system with SDI system, and computer running very different
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 21:35:12 -0400
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From: Roger Heflin <rah@horizon.hit.net>
Subject: Re: Replaced Dist ign system with SDI system, and computer running
very different


>I am going to have to see what the gas mileage.  Does anyone know if
>having the timing changed would cause this kind of differences in fuel
>usage?

If the improvements are enough to be reflected inna lower cruise
TPS, then I'd expect to see a change.  Now, with that being said,
if the BL/INT changes alot then it may not be so much.  Low cruise
gets quite complicated when ya mix in BL/INT IAC counts.

Your setup, does it use a crank attached disc?
With Hall effect switches?,
Does the module look to be a gm unit like off a v-8 caddy?.
Matter of fact are there any numbers showing on things?.
Curious minds and all
Cheers
Bruce

  The car sounds the same, and I did some tests, and power is
>pretty close to the same.
>
> Roger
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 22:03:22 1998
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Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 22:04:08 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Kenneth Bailey <iflyrc@bellsouth.net>
Subject: [rx-7] ECU
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>Date: Sat, 08 Aug 1998 18:14:26 -0400
>To: diy
>From: Kenneth Bailey <iflyrc@bellsouth.net>
>Subject: [rx-7] ECU
>
>Sorry guys, I'm not to sure how you set the subject in this group. If I
have done it incorrectly please show me the way :)
>
>Ok, I want to reprogram the 86 RX-7 ECU for power and so fourth. Can you
please help me or point me to some one who can. 
>
>Please don't sent me to a 3-400.00 some body else sell's the chip.
>
>I'm cheap and want to DIM ...
>
>
>Ken
>
>86 Candy Apple Red

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 22:10:27 1998
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Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 21:09:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Replaced Dist ign system with SDI system, and computer running very different
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On Sun, 9 Aug 1998, Bruce Plecan wrote:

> From: Roger Heflin <rah@horizon.hit.net>
> Subject: Re: Replaced Dist ign system with SDI system, and computer running
> very different
> 
> >I am going to have to see what the gas mileage.  Does anyone know if
> >having the timing changed would cause this kind of differences in fuel
> >usage?
> 
> If the improvements are enough to be reflected inna lower cruise
> TPS, then I'd expect to see a change.  Now, with that being said,
> if the BL/INT changes alot then it may not be so much.  Low cruise
> gets quite complicated when ya mix in BL/INT IAC counts.
> 
> Your setup, does it use a crank attached disc?
> With Hall effect switches?,
> Does the module look to be a gm unit like off a v-8 caddy?.
> Matter of fact are there any numbers showing on things?.
> Curious minds and all
> Cheers
> Bruce

There were not numbers showing on the thing.  It is a crank trigger, with 
a magnetic sensor.  The trigger has slots every 6 degrees, and it has a
area where there are no slots for 4-6 teeth.  You can see a picture of
the wheel in question at:  http://www.electromotive-inc.com/Camaro.htm
There is a picture of exactly the wheel I have in these directions.  This
is also the full directions for the installation of the part.

I found some stock injector idle runs.  Stock the car was idling with
2.5-2.6 ms on a 22 lb injector.  The current injectors are rated to be 30 
lb at 39 psi (the old were 22@45) so at 45 the current injectors should
be rated around 34.5 lb/hr.  Before my idle was running 2.1 at idle which 
is more gas than I was using with the old injectors, so something was
off.   Quick calculations (2.1*22/34.6 = 1.3 so based on this to have the 
same amount of fuel it would need 1.3 with the current injectors rather
than the 2.1 I had.  The idle is boosted over what it was so it probably
needs more than 1.3, and the computer seems sure it needs less than 1.7
which is I guess about right.  With the block learns and integrators where
they are need to work on the computer.  The gas mileage should be better
with it running that much less gas.   I should know by the end of the week
if the mileage is better.

			Roger
			93 Z28


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 22:31:57 1998
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Ok, but are you determined to use Forth?

Kenneth Bailey wrote:
 >Sorry guys, I'm not to sure how you set the subject in this group. If
I
> have done it incorrectly please show me the way :)
> >
> >Ok, I want to reprogram the 86 RX-7 ECU for power and so forth. Can you
> please help me or point me to some one who can.


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 23:03:23 1998
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Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 22:04:14 -0500
From: Terry <thartman@gte.net>
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Roger Heflin wrote:

> There were not numbers showing on the thing.  It is a crank trigger, with
> a magnetic sensor.  The trigger has slots every 6 degrees, and it has a
> area where there are no slots for 4-6 teeth.  You can see a picture of
> the wheel in question at:  http://www.electromotive-inc.com/Camaro.htm
> There is a picture of exactly the wheel I have in these directions.  This
> is also the full directions for the installation of the part.

Roger - does your tach seem to work correctly with the SDI unit
in place?  The above URL mentions that a tach adapter might be
necessary for correct operation....

thanks,

T.

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  9 23:26:03 1998
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Date: Sun, 9 Aug 1998 22:25:24 -0500 (CDT)
From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Replaced Dist ign system with SDI system.......
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On Sun, 9 Aug 1998, Terry wrote:

> Roger Heflin wrote:
> 
> > There were not numbers showing on the thing.  It is a crank trigger, with
> > a magnetic sensor.  The trigger has slots every 6 degrees, and it has a
> > area where there are no slots for 4-6 teeth.  You can see a picture of
> > the wheel in question at:  http://www.electromotive-inc.com/Camaro.htm
> > There is a picture of exactly the wheel I have in these directions.  This
> > is also the full directions for the installation of the part.
> 
> Roger - does your tach seem to work correctly with the SDI unit
> in place?  The above URL mentions that a tach adapter might be
> necessary for correct operation....
> 

You have not been reading.  No it does not work.  I did make it work, by
bypassing the tach filter on the car, but then the engine did not seem to
run good at all.  Even without the filter was bypassed the engine won't
idle (or stop/start) exactly right with their tach signal.   Right now the
car is running pretty reasonable, at idle it is running rich with less gas
than before, so something is different.

				Roger


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 01:05:33 1998
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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 01:06:17 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Kenneth Bailey <iflyrc@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: [rx-7] ECU
In-Reply-To: <35CE5C5C.65AD@pacbell.net>
References: <3.0.3.32.19980809220408.006b3af8@mail.lig.bellsouth.net>
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At 07:35 PM 8/9/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Ok, but are you determined to use Forth?
>
>Kenneth Bailey wrote:
> >Sorry guys, I'm not to sure how you set the subject in this group. If
>I
>> have done it incorrectly please show me the way :)
>> >
>> >Ok, I want to reprogram the 86 RX-7 ECU for power and so forth. Can you
>> please help me or point me to some one who can.
>



Sorry that was a typo, although I do know the language. No I just want to
put it where it will perform.. Can  you help ?

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 07:08:56 1998
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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 21:15:00 +1000
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Subject: Re: Subaru Dizzy ..?????
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Greg Hermann wrote:
> 
> >Hi all
> >
> >Has anyone had any experence with Subaru AE92 Turbo Dizzy's
> >
> >Ive wired up the whole system (using an autronics system)
> >
> >ok problem is:
> >
> >with the dizzy in and cranking over I get the 4x trigger and no 1x (TDC)
> >trigger.....now the funny thing is that it i pull the dizzy out and spin
> >it around by hand it all works fine.....even with a earth strap hooked
> >up in the same location ......now explain that?????
> >
> >
> >any thoughts???
> >
> >Juz!
> I don't know poop about your particular engine--but it seems to me that
> perhaps if your 4x trigger signal is coming from a sensor located elsewhere
> than in the dizzy (flywheel?), and that mebbe the dizzy ain't being turned
> when its installed in the motor? Have you checked this out? Might be time
> to put away the crimpers and VOM and break out the spanners! If that isn't
> it ??????????


no but thanks for the input.......1 dizzy 2 pickups ......same setup as
a nissan efi.....   and it spinning!

Juz!

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 09:58:55 1998
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Date: Thu, 06 Aug 1998 09:12:22 -0700
From: "Jose  Rodriguez" <JRodriguez@impcotechnologies.com>
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Injector Driver Module
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  I am designing an injector driver module. I would like your input, to see if my calculations are correct, particularly in my assumption that all eight injectors could be on at the same time, for up to 85% duty cycle. Thanks in advance for your answers!

  The current specs I have are:

  Eight injectors.
  Injector coil resistance: 1.5 ohms (it could also be 2.3 ohms)
  Injector current: 4A peak, 1A hold.
  Duty cycle: up to 80..85%
  Operating ambient temp: -40C..125C
  Operating voltage: 4.5V to 16V.

  I did some calculations, to estimate how much power would I need to dissipate, worst case, ASSUMING ALL EIGHT INJECTORS COULD BE ON, FOR 85% OF THE TIME (is this assumption correct?)

  First, I set Vbatt=14V. In order to have 4A circulating, the driver's output voltage would be (14-4*1.5)=8V. Injector's coil voltage = (14-8) = 6V.
  Instantaneous power at the driver: (8V)*(4A) = 32W. Instantaneous power thru injector's coil: (6V)*(4A) = 24W.
  The 4A will only circulate for a brief period of time, so average power over one cycle will be much less.

  One amp, sustaining, automatically means (14*1)=14W have to be dissipated between the injector driver and the injector coil (100% duty cycle).
  In order to have the 1A sustaining, the driver's output voltage would be (14-1*1.5)=12.5V. Injector's voltage =(14-12.5) = 1.5V.
  Inst. power at driver: (12.5V)*(1A) = 12.5W. Inst power at injector: (1.5V)*(1A) = 1.5W. (total=14W, as predicted).

  Thus, since the Duty Cycle can be up to 85%, and disregarding the initial 4A power peak, and the switching power losses, then the average power for each injector driver is (12.5W)*(0.85) = 10.625W. The average power for each injector coil is (1.5W)*(0.85)=1.275W.

  If all 8 injectors could be on 85% of the time, then the maximum average power at Vbatt=14V (again, disregarding some power losses) would be (8)*(10.625W) = 85W at the injector driver side. Obviously, at 16V the power dissipation would be higher (98.6W!).

  As you can imagine, dissipating 98.6W+ into an under-the-hood ambient of 125C, with no expected air flow, is a formidable task. The heatsink's surface temperature should not be allowed to go above 150C; that would mean the thermal resistance from the heatsink to ambient would be (150-125)/98.6 = 0.25C/W. I can not see any feasible heatsink doing that, without the need for forced cooling.




From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 10:19:45 1998
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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 10:18:24 -0400
From: mrvette <mrvette@bellsouth.net>
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Subject: Re: Injector Driver Module
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IF   I read your analysis correctly....you forgot that is a 4 cycle engine...so
the on time is only ~40%  on a real time basis....NO?   GENE

Jose Rodriguez wrote:
> 
>   I am designing an injector driver module. I would like your input, to see if my calculations are correct, particularly in my assumption that all eight injectors could be on at the same time, for up to 85% duty cycle. Thanks in advance for your answers!
> 
>   The current specs I have are:
> 
>   Eight injectors.
>   Injector coil resistance: 1.5 ohms (it could also be 2.3 ohms)
>   Injector current: 4A peak, 1A hold.
>   Duty cycle: up to 80..85%
>   Operating ambient temp: -40C..125C
>   Operating voltage: 4.5V to 16V.
> 
>   I did some calculations, to estimate how much power would I need to dissipate, worst case, ASSUMING ALL EIGHT INJECTORS COULD BE ON, FOR 85% OF THE TIME (is this assumption correct?)
> 
>   First, I set Vbatt=14V. In order to have 4A circulating, the driver's output voltage would be (14-4*1.5)=8V. Injector's coil voltage = (14-8) = 6V.
>   Instantaneous power at the driver: (8V)*(4A) = 32W. Instantaneous power thru injector's coil: (6V)*(4A) = 24W.
>   The 4A will only circulate for a brief period of time, so average power over one cycle will be much less.
> 
>   One amp, sustaining, automatically means (14*1)=14W have to be dissipated between the injector driver and the injector coil (100% duty cycle).
>   In order to have the 1A sustaining, the driver's output voltage would be (14-1*1.5)=12.5V. Injector's voltage =(14-12.5) = 1.5V.
>   Inst. power at driver: (12.5V)*(1A) = 12.5W. Inst power at injector: (1.5V)*(1A) = 1.5W. (total=14W, as predicted).
> 
>   Thus, since the Duty Cycle can be up to 85%, and disregarding the initial 4A power peak, and the switching power losses, then the average power for each injector driver is (12.5W)*(0.85) = 10.625W. The average power for each injector coil is (1.5W)*(0.85)=1.275W.
> 
>   If all 8 injectors could be on 85% of the time, then the maximum average power at Vbatt=14V (again, disregarding some power losses) would be (8)*(10.625W) = 85W at the injector driver side. Obviously, at 16V the power dissipation would be higher (98.6W!).
> 
>   As you can imagine, dissipating 98.6W+ into an under-the-hood ambient of 125C, with no expected air flow, is a formidable task. The heatsink's surface temperature should not be allowed to go above 150C; that would mean the thermal resistance from the heatsink to ambient would be (150-125)/98.6 = 0.25C/W. I can not see any feasible heatsink doing that, without the need for forced cooling.

-- 


                                ____________
Fun under the sun in          //~~~~~~~~~~~~\\
Jacksonville, Fl.  :-)))     //______________\\
                       /~~~---~   |      |   ~---~~~\
                      /|    /______\____/______\    |\
                    (( | /      |          |      \ | ))   
     Mako 'Vettes    | \============================/ |   
 Shift better with   |\ \\[  ]    |mrvette|   [  ]// /|
     Automatics      | \/+========================+\/ |
                     |~==============================~|
                     |_____|                    |_____|
-------------------------------------------------------------------

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 11:07:47 1998
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From: "Kurek, Larry" <LKurek@ocfexch2.ocf.anl.gov>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: LT1 swap
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 10:10:32 -0500
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Won't work.

The Optispark ignition has both a high res and low res signal going to
the ECM. You could probably convert the car with an Electromotive DIS
system and run it...but that would be an interesting project. The 93
doesn't have the MAF sensor, just a MAP, while the 94+ has both. Oh
yeah, the LT1 also has two O2 sensors, not the one of the L98.

TTYL!

Larry

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Thomas Matthews [SMTP:tmatthew@stny.lrun.com]
> Sent:	Sunday, August 09, 1998 3:18 PM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	LT1 swap
> 
> Can a 90-92 7730 ECM run a early LT1? Specifically, can it understand
> the ignition system without any extra programming? I would swap this
> engine into my 3rd gen Bird which has TPI, this way I could keep the
> orig harness and not have to learn how to program the later ECM's...
> Don't the 92-94 LT1's have something different than the 95-up
> Optispark?
> TIA
> Tom

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 11:27:13 1998
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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 15:27:19 +0000 (UTC)
From: Jim Lill <jpl@vectorbd.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Bosch Help
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I hunting for any Bosch info beyond what is in books like Bosch's own,
Probst's, and Watson's. I have a webpage going with a lot of what I've
found so far at http://www.vectorbd.com/peugeot/bosch.html I'm mostly
looking for earlier stuff like L-Jet, LH-Jet, EZK Ignition. If you know of
any webpages or other mailing lists that might be of help, please let me
know. Many thanks in advance! 

-Jim
 


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 11:52:30 1998
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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 10:54:11 -0500
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Donald Whisnant <dewhisna@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Motorola Phone Number
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>From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
>Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 11:58:00 -0500
>Subject: Re: Motorola Phone Number
>
> PDFs are absolutely useless to me.  As far as I can tell they're just
>pictures, like .GIFs or .JPEGs.  I can view a PDF in Adobe's fat, slow
>picture viewer thing, or I can print it, but I can't extract any data to
>cut and paste into my notes or source code.  I suppose I could dump a
>PDF to the printer, scan it, OCR it, and proofread it, but I'd just as
>soon find a vendor that knows how to provide data in a normal ASCII
>format.
>
                                                  

Uhh...  You do know that you can just cut and paste right of
Adobe's acrobat reader don't you??   Select the little icon on the
tool bar that has "abc" with a dotted box around it...  That will put it
in the selection mode...  Then highlight the section you want and
hit ctrl-insert to copy it to the clipboard...  Then simply paste it
(as ASCII) into the document of your choice...  ...  I think you can
also cut/paste the pictures as well...  ...  PDF files are vector
graphics files (not raster like .jpg, .gif, etc)...  Therefore, you have
a lot more flexibility and control -- it is kind of like having a
MS Word doc or something...  Hence the name "portable document
format" or PDF...

Donald


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 12:04:45 1998
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Subject: Re: Injector Driver Module
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Howday

Try running the injectors in series parallel arrangement.

later:peter

At 09:12 AM 8/6/98 -0700, you wrote:
>  I am designing an injector driver module. I would like your input, to see
if my calculations are correct, particularly in my assumption that all eight
injectors could be on at the same time, for up to 85% duty cycle. Thanks in
advance for your answers!
>
>  The current specs I have are:
>
>  Eight injectors.
>  Injector coil resistance: 1.5 ohms (it could also be 2.3 ohms)
>  Injector current: 4A peak, 1A hold.
>  Duty cycle: up to 80..85%
>  Operating ambient temp: -40C..125C
>  Operating voltage: 4.5V to 16V.
>
>  I did some calculations, to estimate how much power would I need to
dissipate, worst case, ASSUMING ALL EIGHT INJECTORS COULD BE ON, FOR 85% OF
THE TIME (is this assumption correct?)
>
>  First, I set Vbatt=14V. In order to have 4A circulating, the driver's
output voltage would be (14-4*1.5)=8V. Injector's coil voltage = (14-8) = 6V.
>  Instantaneous power at the driver: (8V)*(4A) = 32W. Instantaneous power
thru injector's coil: (6V)*(4A) = 24W.
>  The 4A will only circulate for a brief period of time, so average power
over one cycle will be much less.
>
>  One amp, sustaining, automatically means (14*1)=14W have to be dissipated
between the injector driver and the injector coil (100% duty cycle).
>  In order to have the 1A sustaining, the driver's output voltage would be
(14-1*1.5)=12.5V. Injector's voltage =(14-12.5) = 1.5V.
>  Inst. power at driver: (12.5V)*(1A) = 12.5W. Inst power at injector:
(1.5V)*(1A) = 1.5W. (total=14W, as predicted).
>
>  Thus, since the Duty Cycle can be up to 85%, and disregarding the initial
4A power peak, and the switching power losses, then the average power for
each injector driver is (12.5W)*(0.85) = 10.625W. The average power for each
injector coil is (1.5W)*(0.85)=1.275W.
>
>  If all 8 injectors could be on 85% of the time, then the maximum average
power at Vbatt=14V (again, disregarding some power losses) would be
(8)*(10.625W) = 85W at the injector driver side. Obviously, at 16V the power
dissipation would be higher (98.6W!).
>
>  As you can imagine, dissipating 98.6W+ into an under-the-hood ambient of
125C, with no expected air flow, is a formidable task. The heatsink's
surface temperature should not be allowed to go above 150C; that would mean
the thermal resistance from the heatsink to ambient would be (150-125)/98.6
= 0.25C/W. I can not see any feasible heatsink doing that, without the need
for forced cooling.
>
>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 12:10:45 1998
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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 09:09:03 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Vance Rose <javer96@snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: programming 101 and checksum
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At 02:51 PM 8/9/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Vance Rose wrote:
>> 
>> At 07:01 AM 8/9/98 -0400, you wrote:
>> >
>> >-----Original Message-----
>> >From: Shannen Durphey <Shannen@mcn.net>
>> >To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>> >Date: Sunday, August 09, 1998 3:13 AM
>> >Subject: programming 101 and checksum
>> >
>> >
>> >>Memory location 0x004 is listed as the checksum enable for
>> >>7747 ecm. This value is $42 in my factory files.  Does
>> >>anyone know what the value is to disable checksum?
>> >
>> >AA
>> >
>> > Also,
>> >>this location in 8747 ecm contains the value $4F.  Is it
>> >>safe to assume this is checksum enable for this ecm?
>> >
>> >I don't know, could try a chip with AA entry and see
>> >
>> >Bruce
>> >
>> >>Thanks
>> >>
>> >>Shannen
>> >>
>> >
>> >Hi All
>> 
>>         If ya have time - just disassemble code. The checksum is usually
early in
>> program section. Being a novice it was one of my first finds for 165 ecm.
>> 
>> Vance
>
>Ummm, you make it sound so easy, I wish I knew what you
>meant.  I've looked at disassembled code on Ludis' site, and
>it's pretty much Greek to me.  So where's a guy to go to
>learn more?
>
>Shannen
>
>Hi Shannen

	Easy - nooo!! If your learning it's actaully vverry boring. Kinda like
watching paint dry. Have to really want to do the work. In my file have
only commented about 20 pages, about 145 to finish that one file. Do that
work in winter evening when rhere is nothing else to tinker with. 

	A good start would be the pink motorola book for 68hc11. There has been
recent post about source for it.

Vance

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 12:23:51 1998
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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 09:18:54 -0700
From: "Jose  Rodriguez" <JRodriguez@impcotechnologies.com>
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Injector Driver Module
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Gene, thanks for your response.
  How did you obtain the ~40% number? Was that by doing (0.5)*(0.85)=42.5%?

  Even if I use 40% instead of 85%, I am still in trouble. Power per driver (at 16V) is (14.5W)*(0.4) = 5.8W; total for eight injector drivers: 46.4W.

  I just can not see how the OEM manufacturers can dissipate that much heat. I have seen an injector module from Ford, that I estimate would not be able to dissipate more than 20W (at 125C ambient), so there must be something else I am missing here.

  Does anyone have a number of the power dissipation of a typical peak and hold injector module? (4A peak, 1A hold, 8 injectors).


mrvette wrote:
>IF   I read your analysis correctly....you forgot that is a 4 cycle engine...so
the on time is only ~40%  on a real time basis....NO?   GENE

Jose Rodriguez wrote:
> 
>   I am designing an injector driver module. I would like your input, to see if my calculations are correct, particularly in my assumption that all eight injectors could be on at the same time, for up to 85% duty cycle. Thanks in advance for your answers!
> 
>   The current specs I have are:
> 
>   Eight injectors.
>   Injector coil resistance: 1.5 ohms (it could also be 2.3 ohms)
>   Injector current: 4A peak, 1A hold.
>   Duty cycle: up to 80..85%
>   Operating ambient temp: -40C..125C
>   Operating voltage: 4.5V to 16V.
> 
>   I did some calculations, to estimate how much power would I need to dissipate, worst case, ASSUMING ALL EIGHT INJECTORS COULD BE ON, FOR 85% OF THE TIME (is this assumption correct?)
> 
>   First, I set Vbatt=14V. In order to have 4A circulating, the driver's output voltage would be (14-4*1.5)=8V. Injector's coil voltage = (14-8) = 6V.
>   Instantaneous power at the driver: (8V)*(4A) = 32W. Instantaneous power thru injector's coil: (6V)*(4A) = 24W.
>   The 4A will only circulate for a brief period of time, so average power over one cycle will be much less.
> 
>   One amp, sustaining, automatically means (14*1)=14W have to be dissipated between the injector driver and the injector coil (100% duty cycle).
>   In order to have the 1A sustaining, the driver's output voltage would be (14-1*1.5)=12.5V. Injector's voltage =(14-12.5) = 1.5V.
>   Inst. power at driver: (12.5V)*(1A) = 12.5W. Inst power at injector: (1.5V)*(1A) = 1.5W. (total=14W, as predicted).
> 
>   Thus, since the Duty Cycle can be up to 85%, and disregarding the initial 4A power peak, and the switching power losses, then the average power for each injector driver is (12.5W)*(0.85) = 10.625W. The average power for each injector coil is (1.5W)*(0.85)=1.275W.
> 
>   If all 8 injectors could be on 85% of the time, then the maximum average power at Vbatt=14V (again, disregarding some power losses) would be (8)*(10.625W) = 85W at the injector driver side. Obviously, at 16V the power dissipation would be higher (98.6W!).
> 
>   As you can imagine, dissipating 98.6W+ into an under-the-hood ambient of 125C, with no expected air flow, is a formidable task. The heatsink's surface temperature should not be allowed to go above 150C; that would mean the thermal resistance from the heatsink to ambient would be (150-125)/98.6 = 0.25C/W. I can not see any feasible heatsink doing that, without the need for forced cooling.



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 12:38:32 1998
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Subject: Re: Injector Driver Module
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>IF   I read your analysis correctly....you forgot that is a 4 cycle engine...so
>the on time is only ~40%  on a real time basis....NO?   GENE
>
>Jose Rodriguez wrote:
>>
>>   I am designing an injector driver module. I would like your input, to
>>see if my calculations are correct, particularly in my assumption that
>>all eight injectors could be on at the same time, for up to 85% duty
>>cycle. Thanks in advance for your answers!
>>
>>   The current specs I have are:
>>
>>   Eight injectors.
>>   Injector coil resistance: 1.5 ohms (it could also be 2.3 ohms)
>>   Injector current: 4A peak, 1A hold.
>>   Duty cycle: up to 80..85%
>>   Operating ambient temp: -40C..125C
>>   Operating voltage: 4.5V to 16V.
>>
>>   I did some calculations, to estimate how much power would I need to
>>dissipate, worst case, ASSUMING ALL EIGHT INJECTORS COULD BE ON, FOR 85%
>>OF THE TIME (is this assumption correct?)
>>
>>   First, I set Vbatt=14V. In order to have 4A circulating, the driver's
>>output voltage would be (14-4*1.5)=8V. Injector's coil voltage = (14-8) =
>>6V.
>>   Instantaneous power at the driver: (8V)*(4A) = 32W. Instantaneous
>>power thru injector's coil: (6V)*(4A) = 24W.
>>   The 4A will only circulate for a brief period of time, so average
>>power over one cycle will be much less.
>>
>>   One amp, sustaining, automatically means (14*1)=14W have to be
>>dissipated between the injector driver and the injector coil (100% duty
>>cycle).
>>   In order to have the 1A sustaining, the driver's output voltage would
>>be (14-1*1.5)=12.5V. Injector's voltage =(14-12.5) = 1.5V.
>>   Inst. power at driver: (12.5V)*(1A) = 12.5W. Inst power at injector:
>>(1.5V)*(1A) = 1.5W. (total=14W, as predicted).
>>
>>   Thus, since the Duty Cycle can be up to 85%, and disregarding the
>>initial 4A power peak, and the switching power losses, then the average
>>power for each injector driver is (12.5W)*(0.85) = 10.625W. The average
>>power for each injector coil is (1.5W)*(0.85)=1.275W.
>>
>>   If all 8 injectors could be on 85% of the time, then the maximum
>>average power at Vbatt=14V (again, disregarding some power losses) would
>>be (8)*(10.625W) = 85W at the injector driver side. Obviously, at 16V the
>>power dissipation would be higher (98.6W!).
>>
>>   As you can imagine, dissipating 98.6W+ into an under-the-hood ambient
>>of 125C, with no expected air flow, is a formidable task. The heatsink's
>>surface temperature should not be allowed to go above 150C; that would
>>mean the thermal resistance from the heatsink to ambient would be
>>(150-125)/98.6 = 0.25C/W. I can not see any feasible heatsink doing that,
>>without the need for forced cooling.
>
>--
>
>
>                                ____________
>Fun under the sun in          //~~~~~~~~~~~~\\
>Jacksonville, Fl.  :-)))     //______________\\
>                       /~~~---~   |      |   ~---~~~\
>                      /|    /______\____/______\    |\
>                    (( | /      |          |      \ | ))
>     Mako 'Vettes    | \============================/ |
> Shift better with   |\ \\[  ]    |mrvette|   [  ]// /|
>     Automatics      | \/+========================+\/ |
>                     |~==============================~|
>                     |_____|                    |_____|
>-------------------------------------------------------------------
        Depending on how universally applicable you want your driver board
to be, you might want to consider what would happen to the driver power
dissipation if it were to be applied to the same injectors at the same peak
and hold current levels, but powered from a (nominal) 24 v. electrical
system.
        You may also want to consider that there is much unexplored
potential for better BSFC in using two sets of staged injectors, neither of
which exceeds about a 25% to 30% duty cycle (the length of the intake
stroke on a four cycle engine). The primary set needs to provide enough
flow for about 50% more than cruising power (at a 25% duty cycle); the
second enough flow to get the rest of the way to maximum power (at the same
25% duty cycle). With this kind of s set-up, the primaries would be plenty
small enough to give truly repeatable flow at idle.
        I have been giving very serious consideration to building an engine
with this kind of a set-up, with the additional twiddle of putting the
primary injectors in something like a BG "venturi fuel injection" (four
barrel) body. Each (of the four) primary injectors would then be called
upon to perform TWO (up to) 25% duty cycle squirts (net 50% duty cycle for
each injector) every two engine revolutions. (Fire the injector closest to
the runner drawing mixture at the time.) The purpose of these gymnastics is
intended to be to take advantage of the graealy inproved fuel atomization
available at light loads from a set-up like the BG venturi body.
        I would suggest that anyone who doubts the positive impact of
better fuel atomization on BSFC (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption, or units
of fuel consumed in order to produce a unit of work--it relates directly to
fuel mileage) take a look at dyno BSFC numbers on an engine run with Weber
DCOE or IDA type carbs vs. the same engine run with different carbs or port
injectors at the same power levels. The idea of getting to a shorter duty
cycle on the secondary (port) injectors is pointed in the same direction:
Don't vaporize (quite a distinct process from "atomize") the fuel by
cooling parts in the intake port (that's what the cooling system is for).
Get (most of) the atomized droplets of liquid fuel into the cylinder where
their (heat of) vaporization can absorb some of the heat of compression
during the compression stroke, thus improving net output and BSFC and
allowing a higher compression ratio (for still more power and still better
BSFC) and/or better fuel tolerance.
        I didn't mean for this to turn into a lecture or speach. I'm new
here :). So far I find myself wishing I had even a third of the knowlege
I've seen demonstrated about the electronic side of things, and so I'm here
primarily to learn. However, meanwhile, if I may contribute a little
perspective as to what we're all trying to get the electronics to do for
us, I'm willing to try to contribute that if you all are willing to listen.
                                       Glad to meetcha, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 12:47:00 1998
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On Thu, 6 Aug 1998, Jose  Rodriguez wrote:
>   I am designing an injector driver module.

If you haven't do so already, you should compare
your design to the EFI332 one at
http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/efi332/hardware.html


>   Injector coil resistance: 1.5 ohms (it could also be 2.3 ohms)
<snip...>
>   If all 8 injectors could be on 85% of the time, then the maximum 
<snip...>

A few more quick thoughts. GENE already pointed out that for a 4cycle
engine you're talking about half of 85%. Also, I think most
OEM port injectors have a higher resistance (15+ ohms?).
This makes your power consumption figures look **much** better.
Also, mounting your module in the car interior as most OEMs
do helps your underhood heat problem.

When's the prototype scheduled?   :)
-greg


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 13:15:39 1998
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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 19:09:58 +0000 (GMT)
From: pisa <pisa@waltz.felk.cvut.cz>
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Hi Everybody,

             I am working as postgraduate student on some project related
to engine management and I will be very pleased, if somebody can
advice me some good articles and URLs about engine models.
Matlab and simulink models will be great too.

----------------------------------------------------------------------
What we have already done :

We have designed ignition control with 80C552 processor.
All parameters and maps can be changed from on-board
portable PC. Values of actual pressure, RPM, temperature etc.
can be read and stored on HD and then analyzed.

Our prototype was tested for 6 months on Skoda Forman car.
Czech company Magneton is testing this prototype on
city bus reconstructed for methane gas.

Our actual research goal is optimization of engine cycle on road.
We wanted to measure engine torque. This is little problematic,
it means to cut some shaft and add tensometric torque sensor.
So we decided to try measure cylinder pressure and reconstruct
P-V diagram, torque and effectiveness. We have drill hole into one cylinder.
We are relatively poor, so we have decided to try design our own
pressure piezoelectric sensor. We are waiting now, if it can work ????
If it will, I will announce it construction to everybody interested in it. 

We are thinking about 68376 for future projects.
----------------------------------------------------------------------

Again, I need some good engine model.
If you have seen good one,  say me about it, please.

		Thank in advance 
				Pavel Pisa
				pisa@cmp.felk.cvut.cz

PS: Please CC reply to my e-mail too.


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 13:39:49 1998
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In a message dated 98-08-10 11:38:48 EDT, jpl@vectorbd.com writes:

> hunting for any Bosch info beyond what is in books like Bosch's own,
>Probst's, and Watson's. I have a webpage going with a lot of what I've
>found so far at http://www.vectorbd.com/peugeot/bosch.html I'm mostly
>looking for earlier stuff like L-Jet, LH-Jet, EZK Ignition. 

Try this area, look at the bottom of the page

http://www.students.tut.fi/~k124775/Alfa.html

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 13:40:16 1998
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-----Original Message-----
From: Vance Rose <javer96@snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: programming 101 and checksum


20 Pages out of 145,   145 pages is for one bin file?.
Cheers
Bruce


 Being a novice it was one of my first finds for 165 ecm.
>>>
>>> Vance
>>
  So where's a guy to go to
>>learn more?
>>
>>Shannen
>>
>>Hi Shannen
>
> Easy - nooo!! If your learning it's actaully vverry boring. Kinda like
>watching paint dry. Have to really want to do the work. In my file have
>only commented about 20 pages, about 145 to finish that one file. Do that
work in winter evening when rhere is nothing else to tinker with.
>
> A good start would be the pink motorola book for 68hc11. There has been
>recent post about source for it.
>
>Vance
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 13:43:30 1998
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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 13:42:13 -0400
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Well all modern DPFI systems seem to use 16 ohm injectors....not 1.5-2 ohm...and
the older ones used a peak-hold driver?   some such variance...I'm not sure of
the term anymore...been a while....GENE

Jose Rodriguez wrote:
> 
> Gene, thanks for your response.
>   How did you obtain the ~40% number? Was that by doing (0.5)*(0.85)=42.5%?
> 
>   Even if I use 40% instead of 85%, I am still in trouble. Power per driver (at 16V) is (14.5W)*(0.4) = 5.8W; total for eight injector drivers: 46.4W.
> 
>   I just can not see how the OEM manufacturers can dissipate that much heat. I have seen an injector module from Ford, that I estimate would not be able to dissipate more than 20W (at 125C ambient), so there must be something else I am missing here.
> 
>   Does anyone have a number of the power dissipation of a typical peak and hold injector module? (4A peak, 1A hold, 8 injectors).
> 
> mrvette wrote:
> >IF   I read your analysis correctly....you forgot that is a 4 cycle engine...so
> the on time is only ~40%  on a real time basis....NO?   GENE
> 
> Jose Rodriguez wrote:
> >
> >   I am designing an injector driver module. I would like your input, to see if my calculations are correct, particularly in my assumption that all eight injectors could be on at the same time, for up to 85% duty cycle. Thanks in advance for your answers!
> >
> >   The current specs I have are:
> >
> >   Eight injectors.
> >   Injector coil resistance: 1.5 ohms (it could also be 2.3 ohms)
> >   Injector current: 4A peak, 1A hold.
> >   Duty cycle: up to 80..85%
> >   Operating ambient temp: -40C..125C
> >   Operating voltage: 4.5V to 16V.
> >
> >   I did some calculations, to estimate how much power would I need to dissipate, worst case, ASSUMING ALL EIGHT INJECTORS COULD BE ON, FOR 85% OF THE TIME (is this assumption correct?)
> >
> >   First, I set Vbatt=14V. In order to have 4A circulating, the driver's output voltage would be (14-4*1.5)=8V. Injector's coil voltage = (14-8) = 6V.
> >   Instantaneous power at the driver: (8V)*(4A) = 32W. Instantaneous power thru injector's coil: (6V)*(4A) = 24W.
> >   The 4A will only circulate for a brief period of time, so average power over one cycle will be much less.
> >
> >   One amp, sustaining, automatically means (14*1)=14W have to be dissipated between the injector driver and the injector coil (100% duty cycle).
> >   In order to have the 1A sustaining, the driver's output voltage would be (14-1*1.5)=12.5V. Injector's voltage =(14-12.5) = 1.5V.
> >   Inst. power at driver: (12.5V)*(1A) = 12.5W. Inst power at injector: (1.5V)*(1A) = 1.5W. (total=14W, as predicted).
> >
> >   Thus, since the Duty Cycle can be up to 85%, and disregarding the initial 4A power peak, and the switching power losses, then the average power for each injector driver is (12.5W)*(0.85) = 10.625W. The average power for each injector coil is (1.5W)*(0.85)=1.275W.
> >
> >   If all 8 injectors could be on 85% of the time, then the maximum average power at Vbatt=14V (again, disregarding some power losses) would be (8)*(10.625W) = 85W at the injector driver side. Obviously, at 16V the power dissipation would be higher (98.6W!).
> >
> >   As you can imagine, dissipating 98.6W+ into an under-the-hood ambient of 125C, with no expected air flow, is a formidable task. The heatsink's surface temperature should not be allowed to go above 150C; that would mean the thermal resistance from the heatsink to ambient would be (150-125)/98.6 = 0.25C/W. I can not see any feasible heatsink doing that, without the need for forced cooling.

-- 


                                ____________
Fun under the sun in          //~~~~~~~~~~~~\\
Jacksonville, Fl.  :-)))     //______________\\
                       /~~~---~   |      |   ~---~~~\
                      /|    /______\____/______\    |\
                    (( | /      |          |      \ | ))   
     Mako 'Vettes    | \============================/ |   
 Shift better with   |\ \\[  ]    |mrvette|   [  ]// /|
     Automatics      | \/+========================+\/ |
                     |~==============================~|
                     |_____|                    |_____|
-------------------------------------------------------------------

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 13:44:44 1998
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Can't, the variation between ijectors performance would vary greatly......

peter paul fenske wrote:
> 
> Howday
> 
> Try running the injectors in series parallel arrangement.
> 
> later:peter
> 
> At 09:12 AM 8/6/98 -0700, you wrote:
> >  I am designing an injector driver module. I would like your input, to see
> if my calculations are correct, particularly in my assumption that all eight
> injectors could be on at the same time, for up to 85% duty cycle. Thanks in
> advance for your answers!
> >
> >  The current specs I have are:
> >
> >  Eight injectors.
> >  Injector coil resistance: 1.5 ohms (it could also be 2.3 ohms)
> >  Injector current: 4A peak, 1A hold.
> >  Duty cycle: up to 80..85%
> >  Operating ambient temp: -40C..125C
> >  Operating voltage: 4.5V to 16V.
> >
> >  I did some calculations, to estimate how much power would I need to
> dissipate, worst case, ASSUMING ALL EIGHT INJECTORS COULD BE ON, FOR 85% OF
> THE TIME (is this assumption correct?)
> >
> >  First, I set Vbatt=14V. In order to have 4A circulating, the driver's
> output voltage would be (14-4*1.5)=8V. Injector's coil voltage = (14-8) = 6V.
> >  Instantaneous power at the driver: (8V)*(4A) = 32W. Instantaneous power
> thru injector's coil: (6V)*(4A) = 24W.
> >  The 4A will only circulate for a brief period of time, so average power
> over one cycle will be much less.
> >
> >  One amp, sustaining, automatically means (14*1)=14W have to be dissipated
> between the injector driver and the injector coil (100% duty cycle).
> >  In order to have the 1A sustaining, the driver's output voltage would be
> (14-1*1.5)=12.5V. Injector's voltage =(14-12.5) = 1.5V.
> >  Inst. power at driver: (12.5V)*(1A) = 12.5W. Inst power at injector:
> (1.5V)*(1A) = 1.5W. (total=14W, as predicted).
> >
> >  Thus, since the Duty Cycle can be up to 85%, and disregarding the initial
> 4A power peak, and the switching power losses, then the average power for
> each injector driver is (12.5W)*(0.85) = 10.625W. The average power for each
> injector coil is (1.5W)*(0.85)=1.275W.
> >
> >  If all 8 injectors could be on 85% of the time, then the maximum average
> power at Vbatt=14V (again, disregarding some power losses) would be
> (8)*(10.625W) = 85W at the injector driver side. Obviously, at 16V the power
> dissipation would be higher (98.6W!).
> >
> >  As you can imagine, dissipating 98.6W+ into an under-the-hood ambient of
> 125C, with no expected air flow, is a formidable task. The heatsink's
> surface temperature should not be allowed to go above 150C; that would mean
> the thermal resistance from the heatsink to ambient would be (150-125)/98.6
> = 0.25C/W. I can not see any feasible heatsink doing that, without the need
> for forced cooling.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >

-- 


                                ____________
Fun under the sun in          //~~~~~~~~~~~~\\
Jacksonville, Fl.  :-)))     //______________\\
                       /~~~---~   |      |   ~---~~~\
                      /|    /______\____/______\    |\
                    (( | /      |          |      \ | ))   
     Mako 'Vettes    | \============================/ |   
 Shift better with   |\ \\[  ]    |mrvette|   [  ]// /|
     Automatics      | \/+========================+\/ |
                     |~==============================~|
                     |_____|                    |_____|
-------------------------------------------------------------------

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 13:47:37 1998
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Subject: RE: Injector Driver Module
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I'm working on an  injector driving module also. If you are going to fire
the injectors sequentially, then one injector would be on at a time in the
firing order sequence (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 GM V-8)  If you are going to batch
fire the injectors
Then only 4 would be on at a time.  The factory heat sinks on the driver
transistors are not that big so I doubt that the power dissipated is very
high.  The duty cycle is a combination of on time and off time, so even at
85% the injector would
Only be on for less than half of the time. The frequency of the injector
pulse needs to be known, at 6000 rpm the ignition
 pulses are 400 HZ. I would guess that the injector pulses would be the same
frequency for sequential firing and half of that for batch firing.  So far
my bench setup is a batch fire with  2msec on time at idle  and 10 msec at
wot. Any advice would be appreciated.

 
Thanks Don


	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Jose  Rodriguez [SMTP:JRodriguez@impcotechnologies.com]
	Sent:	Thursday, August 06, 1998 11:12 AM
	To:	DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
	Subject:	Injector Driver Module

	  I am designing an injector driver module. I would like your input,
to see if my calculations are correct, particularly in my assumption that
all eight injectors could be on at the same time, for up to 85% duty cycle.
Thanks in advance for your answers!

	  The current specs I have are:

	  Eight injectors.
	  Injector coil resistance: 1.5 ohms (it could also be 2.3 ohms)
	  Injector current: 4A peak, 1A hold.
	  Duty cycle: up to 80..85%
	  Operating ambient temp: -40C..125C
	  Operating voltage: 4.5V to 16V.

	  I did some calculations, to estimate how much power would I need
to dissipate, worst case, ASSUMING ALL EIGHT INJECTORS COULD BE ON, FOR 85%
OF THE TIME (is this assumption correct?)

	  First, I set Vbatt=14V. In order to have 4A circulating, the
driver's output voltage would be (14-4*1.5)=8V. Injector's coil voltage =
(14-8) = 6V.
	  Instantaneous power at the driver: (8V)*(4A) = 32W. Instantaneous
power through injector's coil: (6V)*(4A) = 24W.
	  The 4A will only circulate for a brief period of time, so average
power over one cycle will be much less.

	  One amp, sustaining, automatically means (14*1)=14W have to be
dissipated between the injector driver and the injector coil (100% duty
cycle).
	  In order to have the 1A sustaining, the driver's output voltage
would be (14-1*1.5)=12.5V. Injector's voltage =(14-12.5) = 1.5V.
	  Inst. power at driver: (12.5V)*(1A) = 12.5W. Inst. power at
injector: (1.5V)*(1A) = 1.5W. (total=14W, as predicted).

	  Thus, since the Duty Cycle can be up to 85%, and disregarding the
initial 4A power peak, and the switching power losses, then the average
power for each injector driver is (12.5W)*(0.85) = 10.625W. The average
power for each injector coil is (1.5W)*(0.85)=1.275W.

	  If all 8 injectors could be on 85% of the time, then the maximum
average power at Vbatt=14V (again, disregarding some power losses) would be
(8)*(10.625W) = 85W at the injector driver side. Obviously, at 16V the power
dissipation would be higher (98.6W!).

	  As you can imagine, dissipating 98.6W+ into an under-the-hood
ambient of 125C, with no expected air flow, is a formidable task. The heat
sink's surface temperature should not be allowed to go above 150C; that
would mean the thermal resistance from the heat sink to ambient would be
(150-125)/98.6 = 0.25C/W. I can not see any feasible heat sink doing that,
without the need for forced cooling.

	

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 14:17:00 1998
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Say what?  at 6000 rpm.....ign. pulses are 100 hz....and so are injector pulses
in sequential......if batch it's dviided by 4     not the pulse width, but the
rate.....GENE

Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com wrote:
> 
> I'm working on an  injector driving module also. If you are going to fire
> the injectors sequentially, then one injector would be on at a time in the
> firing order sequence (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 GM V-8)  If you are going to batch
> fire the injectors
> Then only 4 would be on at a time.  The factory heat sinks on the driver
> transistors are not that big so I doubt that the power dissipated is very
> high.  The duty cycle is a combination of on time and off time, so even at
> 85% the injector would
> Only be on for less than half of the time. The frequency of the injector
> pulse needs to be known, at 6000 rpm the ignition
>  pulses are 400 HZ. I would guess that the injector pulses would be the same
> frequency for sequential firing and half of that for batch firing.  So far
> my bench setup is a batch fire with  2msec on time at idle  and 10 msec at
> wot. Any advice would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> Thanks Don
> 
>         -----Original Message-----
>         From:   Jose  Rodriguez [SMTP:JRodriguez@impcotechnologies.com]
>         Sent:   Thursday, August 06, 1998 11:12 AM
>         To:     DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>         Subject:        Injector Driver Module
> 
>           I am designing an injector driver module. I would like your input,
> to see if my calculations are correct, particularly in my assumption that
> all eight injectors could be on at the same time, for up to 85% duty cycle.
> Thanks in advance for your answers!
> 
>           The current specs I have are:
> 
>           Eight injectors.
>           Injector coil resistance: 1.5 ohms (it could also be 2.3 ohms)
>           Injector current: 4A peak, 1A hold.
>           Duty cycle: up to 80..85%
>           Operating ambient temp: -40C..125C
>           Operating voltage: 4.5V to 16V.
> 
>           I did some calculations, to estimate how much power would I need
> to dissipate, worst case, ASSUMING ALL EIGHT INJECTORS COULD BE ON, FOR 85%
> OF THE TIME (is this assumption correct?)
> 
>           First, I set Vbatt=14V. In order to have 4A circulating, the
> driver's output voltage would be (14-4*1.5)=8V. Injector's coil voltage =
> (14-8) = 6V.
>           Instantaneous power at the driver: (8V)*(4A) = 32W. Instantaneous
> power through injector's coil: (6V)*(4A) = 24W.
>           The 4A will only circulate for a brief period of time, so average
> power over one cycle will be much less.
> 
>           One amp, sustaining, automatically means (14*1)=14W have to be
> dissipated between the injector driver and the injector coil (100% duty
> cycle).
>           In order to have the 1A sustaining, the driver's output voltage
> would be (14-1*1.5)=12.5V. Injector's voltage =(14-12.5) = 1.5V.
>           Inst. power at driver: (12.5V)*(1A) = 12.5W. Inst. power at
> injector: (1.5V)*(1A) = 1.5W. (total=14W, as predicted).
> 
>           Thus, since the Duty Cycle can be up to 85%, and disregarding the
> initial 4A power peak, and the switching power losses, then the average
> power for each injector driver is (12.5W)*(0.85) = 10.625W. The average
> power for each injector coil is (1.5W)*(0.85)=1.275W.
> 
>           If all 8 injectors could be on 85% of the time, then the maximum
> average power at Vbatt=14V (again, disregarding some power losses) would be
> (8)*(10.625W) = 85W at the injector driver side. Obviously, at 16V the power
> dissipation would be higher (98.6W!).
> 
>           As you can imagine, dissipating 98.6W+ into an under-the-hood
> ambient of 125C, with no expected air flow, is a formidable task. The heat
> sink's surface temperature should not be allowed to go above 150C; that
> would mean the thermal resistance from the heat sink to ambient would be
> (150-125)/98.6 = 0.25C/W. I can not see any feasible heat sink doing that,
> without the need for forced cooling.
> 
> 

-- 


                                ____________
Fun under the sun in          //~~~~~~~~~~~~\\
Jacksonville, Fl.  :-)))     //______________\\
                       /~~~---~   |      |   ~---~~~\
                      /|    /______\____/______\    |\
                    (( | /      |          |      \ | ))   
     Mako 'Vettes    | \============================/ |   
 Shift better with   |\ \\[  ]    |mrvette|   [  ]// /|
     Automatics      | \/+========================+\/ |
                     |~==============================~|
                     |_____|                    |_____|
-------------------------------------------------------------------

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 Thanks for your response, Greg.

  I have looked at the EFI332 design, but I have not been able to find any info on the injector driver's design other that they use National's injector driver IC, and some other electronic parts.
  That does not help me a lot, since the power dissipation on the injector driver, using a peak and hold driver, is not dependant upon the driver IC itself, but on the system voltage, the hold current, duty cycle, and the injector coil's resistance.

  There are mainly two types of injector coils: the saturated and the peak-and-hold ones.
  The saturated coils typically have 16 ohms resistance and yes, if I used them the power dissipation would be greatly reduced on the injector driver side, specially since I could saturate my drivers, so the power would be negligible.

  If most OEM coils are saturated, that would explain why they can do it with such small heatsinks. I wish I could put the module in the interior, but that is not an option.

  Unfortunately, I am currently being forced to use the peak and hold coils (1.5..2.3 ohms), because the injectors are to deliver a very high mass flow, and work over -40..125C. I am told the saturated coils can not reliably work under those conditions.

  The prototype schedule, as you might have guessed, is for Yesterday. :-(

>>> "Gregory A. Parmer" <gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu> 08/10/98 09:46AM >>>

On Thu, 6 Aug 1998, Jose  Rodriguez wrote:
>   I am designing an injector driver module.

If you haven't do so already, you should compare
your design to the EFI332 one at
http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/efi332/hardware.html 


>   Injector coil resistance: 1.5 ohms (it could also be 2.3 ohms)
<snip...>
>   If all 8 injectors could be on 85% of the time, then the maximum 
<snip...>

A few more quick thoughts. GENE already pointed out that for a 4cycle
engine you're talking about half of 85%. Also, I think most
OEM port injectors have a higher resistance (15+ ohms?).
This makes your power consumption figures look **much** better.
Also, mounting your module in the car interior as most OEMs
do helps your underhood heat problem.

When's the prototype scheduled?   :)
-greg



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 14:39:28 1998
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One thing I forgot to mention is that when a power transistor is turned on
the voltage drop across the transistor is around
.7 to 1.5 volts. The  V drop *  current is the power dissipation. 1.5v*1 Amp
= 1.5 watts. Since the injector is typically 16 ohms most of the voltage
drop and dissipation is in the injector. 16 volts*1 amp = 16 watts. With a
low resistance injector the majority of power is still dissipated in the
injector and not the driver transistor.
 
Take care     
 
Don      


-----Original Message-----
	From:	Gregory A. Parmer [SMTP:gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu]
	Sent:	Monday, August 10, 1998 11:47 AM
	To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
	Subject:	Re: Injector Driver Module


	On Thu, 6 Aug 1998, Jose  Rodriguez wrote:
	>   I am designing an injector driver module.

	If you haven't do so already, you should compare
	your design to the EFI332 one at
	http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/efi332/hardware.html


	>   Injector coil resistance: 1.5 ohms (it could also be 2.3 ohms)
	<snip...>
	>   If all 8 injectors could be on 85% of the time, then the maximum

	<snip...>

	A few more quick thoughts. GENE already pointed out that for a
4cycle
	engine you're talking about half of 85%. Also, I think most
	OEM port injectors have a higher resistance (15+ ohms?).
	This makes your power consumption figures look **much** better.
	Also, mounting your module in the car interior as most OEMs
	do helps your underhood heat problem.

	When's the prototype scheduled?   :)
	-greg

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 15:11:58 1998
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Which pulses were we discussing?  6000 RPM=100 cps, but
takes 2 crank revs to fire 8 cylinders.  So, each plug wire
fires 50times/sec, and coil or coil wire is 400 (50*8)
times/second.  Also, during synchronous firing, one primary
side coil pulse=one injector pulse.  With 8 injectors tied
together, is 400hz.  Split into two banks of four, is 200hz
each.  Sequential is 50hz each.  

mrvette wrote:
> 
> Say what?  at 6000 rpm.....ign. pulses are 100 hz....and so are injector pulses
> in sequential......if batch it's dviided by 4     not the pulse width, but the
> rate.....GENE
> 
> Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com wrote:
> >
> > I'm working on an  injector driving module also. If you are going to fire
> > the injectors sequentially, then one injector would be on at a time in the
> > firing order sequence (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 GM V-8)  If you are going to batch
> > fire the injectors
> > Then only 4 would be on at a time.  The factory heat sinks on the driver
> > transistors are not that big so I doubt that the power dissipated is very
> > high.  The duty cycle is a combination of on time and off time, so even at
> > 85% the injector would
> > Only be on for less than half of the time. The frequency of the injector
> > pulse needs to be known, at 6000 rpm the ignition
> >  pulses are 400 HZ. I would guess that the injector pulses would be the same
> > frequency for sequential firing and half of that for batch firing.  So far
> > my bench setup is a batch fire with  2msec on time at idle  and 10 msec at
> > wot. Any advice would be appreciated.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 15:27:01 1998
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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 12:21:59 -0700
From: "Jose  Rodriguez" <JRodriguez@impcotechnologies.com>
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Don, thanks for your reply.

  I am going to fire them sequentially, like you indicate below. Yes, I also see that the factory heatsinks on the driver transistors are not big, and that is what surprises me.
  The only explanation I have so far is that the injectors used by the OEM modules are the saturated type (16 ohms, and the driver is not working on the linear region, but saturated, and hence very little power is dissipated there). Unfortunately, I need to drive peak-and-hold injectors (1.5..2.3 ohms).
  Over the 360 crank degrees, the injectors will be fired approximately like this:
#1 (0 degrees), #8 (45 deg), #4 (90), #3 (135), #6 (180), #5 (225), #7 (270), #2 (315).

  Every driver would be on up to 85% of the time, so no matter what the timing sequence is, every power driver will conduct the Hold current (1 amp) for 85% of the time, so the average power dissipated on the driver module box is:
  [ (Battery Voltage)-(Hold Current)*(Coil Resistance) ]*(Hold Current)*(Duty Cycle)*(number of injectors) =
  so assuming worst case (Maximum battery voltage):
  [ (16)-(1)*(1.5) ]*(1)*(0.85)*(8) = 98.6W!

  How much power is being dissipated in your module?

>>> <Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com> 08/10/98 10:47AM >>>
I'm working on an  injector driving module also. If you are going to fire
the injectors sequentially, then one injector would be on at a time in the
firing order sequence (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 GM V-8)  If you are going to batch
<snip>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 15:44:28 1998
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your rite,,,,I screwed it up myself.....oh well.....GENE

Shannen Durphey wrote:
> 
> Which pulses were we discussing?  6000 RPM=100 cps, but
> takes 2 crank revs to fire 8 cylinders.  So, each plug wire
> fires 50times/sec, and coil or coil wire is 400 (50*8)
> times/second.  Also, during synchronous firing, one primary
> side coil pulse=one injector pulse.  With 8 injectors tied
> together, is 400hz.  Split into two banks of four, is 200hz
> each.  Sequential is 50hz each.
> 
> mrvette wrote:
> >
> > Say what?  at 6000 rpm.....ign. pulses are 100 hz....and so are injector pulses
> > in sequential......if batch it's dviided by 4     not the pulse width, but the
> > rate.....GENE
> >
> > Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm working on an  injector driving module also. If you are going to fire
> > > the injectors sequentially, then one injector would be on at a time in the
> > > firing order sequence (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 GM V-8)  If you are going to batch
> > > fire the injectors
> > > Then only 4 would be on at a time.  The factory heat sinks on the driver
> > > transistors are not that big so I doubt that the power dissipated is very
> > > high.  The duty cycle is a combination of on time and off time, so even at
> > > 85% the injector would
> > > Only be on for less than half of the time. The frequency of the injector
> > > pulse needs to be known, at 6000 rpm the ignition
> > >  pulses are 400 HZ. I would guess that the injector pulses would be the same
> > > frequency for sequential firing and half of that for batch firing.  So far
> > > my bench setup is a batch fire with  2msec on time at idle  and 10 msec at
> > > wot. Any advice would be appreciated.

-- 


                                ____________
Fun under the sun in          //~~~~~~~~~~~~\\
Jacksonville, Fl.  :-)))     //______________\\
                       /~~~---~   |      |   ~---~~~\
                      /|    /______\____/______\    |\
                    (( | /      |          |      \ | ))   
     Mako 'Vettes    | \============================/ |   
 Shift better with   |\ \\[  ]    |mrvette|   [  ]// /|
     Automatics      | \/+========================+\/ |
                     |~==============================~|
                     |_____|                    |_____|
-------------------------------------------------------------------

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 16:16:45 1998
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Bruce Plecan wrote:

> The inputs are, intake air temp, coolant emp, MAP, TPS, distributor
> reference pulse, tranny 4th gear, park neutral switch, vss signal.
> 
> The coolant temp/intake air temp are easy.
> 
> Having something that reacts to TPS is another matter.
>   MAP is high, engine off, and then drops at engine run.
>   MAP varies with little with TPS,
>   High rpm, MAP is almost atmospheric like at start up.
> 
> At 40 mph low tps have a 4th gear engaged signal, so ecm can
>   apply TCC.
> 
> Would be nice to introduce an engine miss option at idle to see
> what the ecm does about it.
> 
> Having O2 feedback would be a nice option.  Sudden change in
> pulse width high O2.

**********************************************************************

Intake air temp:  What is the range of the sensor? 
                  
                  Is tempco positive or negative? 
                  IOW, does resistance go up or down 
                  as temp goes up? 
                  
                  What voltage does the ECU apply to 
                  the sensor? (Disconnect the sensor 
                  and measure across the ECU terminals.)

Coolant temp:     Likewise.

MAP:              0-5V, 1 bar is 5V approx. Correct?

TPS:              0-5V, throttle closed to WOT. Yes?

Dist. ref pulse:  How many pulses per rev? 
                  Amplitude? (5V?) 
                  When does it occur? (TDC?) 

4th gear switch:  Is it a switch? 
                  How many wires go to it?      

neutral/park sw:  Ditto.

VSS:              What is it?

TCC:              What is it?  

O2 sensor:        Conventional O2 sensors put out 0-1 V. Is this
                  the input to the ECU? 

What is the max rate of change of engine rpm?

What kind of PC do you have?

Hang with me on this. I know its a pain, but I can't read your mind.
This way you get what you want instead of what I think you want.

Regards, Jack


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 16:19:50 1998
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From: Mike Morrin <mikem@southern.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Injector Driver Module
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At 11:17 AM 8/10/98 -0700, Jose  Rodriguez wrote:
>  There are mainly two types of injector coils: the saturated and the
peak-and-hold ones.
>  The saturated coils typically have 16 ohms resistance and yes, if I used
them the power dissipation would be greatly reduced on the injector driver
side, specially since I could saturate my drivers, so the power would be
negligible.
>
>  If most OEM coils are saturated, that would explain why they can do it
with such small heatsinks. I wish I could put the module in the interior,
but that is not an option.
>
>  Unfortunately, I am currently being forced to use the peak and hold
coils (1.5..2.3 ohms), because the injectors are to deliver a very high
mass flow, and work over -40..125C. I am told the saturated coils can not
reliably work under those conditions.

I thought I saw somewhere a circuit which generated the hold current by PWM
of the injector current, so the drivers were always saturated or off.  I
cannot remeber where I saw it, or whether it just used the internal
iductance of the injector, or an extra external inductor.

regards,

Mike

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 16:21:44 1998
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>  Thanks for your response, Greg.

>   I have looked at the EFI332 design, but I have not been able to find any info on the injector driver's design other that they use National's injector driver IC, and some other electronic parts.
>   That does not help me a lot, since the power dissipation on the injector driver, using a peak and hold driver, is not dependant upon the driver IC itself, but on the system voltage, the hold current, duty cycle, and the injector coil's resistance.

Find the datasheet on the National part (LM1949).  It has a section on
power dissipation including how to use it as a switching driver.
The tradeoff is you end up generating lots of RFI.  They claim a
fourfold reduction in power dissipation in the power transistor in
their tests.

Orin.

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Subject: Re: Injector Driver Module
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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In-Reply-To: <D3286A3F9D0ED111A2C40080D8700D98101894@cccntxch02.ceco.com> from "Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com" at Aug 10, 98 12:47:12 pm
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> Then only 4 would be on at a time.  The factory heat sinks on the driver
> transistors are not that big so I doubt that the power dissipated is very
> high.  The duty cycle is a combination of on time and off time, so even at
> 85% the injector would
> Only be on for less than half of the time. The frequency of the injector
> pulse needs to be known, at 6000 rpm the ignition

Nope, sorry, 85% duty cycle means on 85% of the time, off 15% of the time.

Orin.

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From: Kevin Vannorsdel <kv@us.ibm.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Ignition Problem (sorta related)
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 This is a tad off-topic..... but may still be of interest.


My VW motor (OK- engine) has this problem that it only runs decent if I pull a
few of the spark plug wires out of the dist cap a bit...    actually-  it only
runs good when I pull it out far enough that it starts arching from the cap to
the wire...

If I make a good snug electrical connection... the cylinder never fires (and
the bug runs real crummy)

I am sure this is a common problem and must have something to do with the
voltage built up by the coil... can anyone comment...?  Maybe off-line is best
since this is not directly EFI.

Thanks for the bandwidth.

KV.


________________________________________________
  Kevin Vannorsdel     IBM Arm Electronics Development
    408-256-6492                Tie 276-6492     kv@us.ibm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 16:42:33 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Injector Driver Module
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 15:42:03 -0500
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I got the spark info from the 2nd edition bosch handbook . spark rate per
min = 8cyl.* 6000 RPM/2=24000 sparks per min24000/60=400sparks per second.
Or if you don't like that formula    Frequency = 8 cyl *6000 rpm/120 = 400
HZ
These pulses would be on the TACH terminal of the coil. 
 
Don
	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Shannen Durphey [SMTP:Shannen@mcn.net]
	Sent:	Monday, August 10, 1998 2:15 PM
	To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
	Subject:	Re: Injector Driver Module

	Which pulses were we discussing?  6000 RPM=100 cps, but
	takes 2 crank revs to fire 8 cylinders.  So, each plug wire
	fires 50times/sec, and coil or coil wire is 400 (50*8)
	times/second.  Also, during synchronous firing, one primary
	side coil pulse=one injector pulse.  With 8 injectors tied
	together, is 400hz.  Split into two banks of four, is 200hz
	each.  Sequential is 50hz each.  

	mrvette wrote:
	> 
	> Say what?  at 6000 rpm.....ign. pulses are 100 hz....and so are
injector pulses
	> in sequential......if batch it's dviided by 4     not the pulse
width, but the
	> rate.....GENE
	> 
	> Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com wrote:
	> >
	> > I'm working on an  injector driving module also. If you are
going to fire
	> > the injectors sequentially, then one injector would be on at a
time in the
	> > firing order sequence (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 GM V-8)  If you are going
to batch
	> > fire the injectors
	> > Then only 4 would be on at a time.  The factory heat sinks on
the driver
	> > transistors are not that big so I doubt that the power
dissipated is very
	> > high.  The duty cycle is a combination of on time and off time,
so even at
	> > 85% the injector would
	> > Only be on for less than half of the time. The frequency of the
injector
	> > pulse needs to be known, at 6000 rpm the ignition
	> >  pulses are 400 HZ. I would guess that the injector pulses would
be the same
	> > frequency for sequential firing and half of that for batch
firing.  So far
	> > my bench setup is a batch fire with  2msec on time at idle  and
10 msec at
	> > wot. Any advice would be appreciated.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 16:42:33 1998
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Subject: Re: Injector Driver Module
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In-Reply-To: <Pine.SO4.4.02.9808101103220.18561-100000@bert> from "Gregory A. Parmer" at Aug 10, 98 11:46:56 am
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> A few more quick thoughts. GENE already pointed out that for a 4cycle
> engine you're talking about half of 85%. Also, I think most

Type of engine 2/4 stroke is irrelevant.  You can inject fuel into the
intake port at any point in the cycle and for however long you want,
as long as you get all the fuel needed injected between say the intake
valve closing in one intake cycle and it closing in the next intake cycle
(an arbitrary point).  This time is what you have to inject your fuel.
It's just a time period.  2/4 stroke doesn't matter.  You could use
all of it if the injectors would let you and didn't have the 85%
rule of thumb max. on time.

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 17:22:55 1998
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cybergate.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Ignition Problem (sorta related)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 17:15:23 -0400
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Your plugs or wires are leaking voltage to ground which prevents enough
voltage buildup to jump the plug gap.  When you pull the wires a little, no
voltage gets to the wires or plugs until a spark jumps the wire to cap gap.
At that point there is enough voltage to also jump the plug gap.  Install
new plugs and wires.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Vannorsdel <kv@us.ibm.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, August 10, 1998 4:48 PM
Subject: Ignition Problem (sorta related)


>
> This is a tad off-topic..... but may still be of interest.
>
>
>My VW motor (OK- engine) has this problem that it only runs decent if I
pull a
>few of the spark plug wires out of the dist cap a bit...    actually-  it
only
>runs good when I pull it out far enough that it starts arching from the cap
to
>the wire...
>
>If I make a good snug electrical connection... the cylinder never fires
(and
>the bug runs real crummy)
>
>I am sure this is a common problem and must have something to do with the
>voltage built up by the coil... can anyone comment...?  Maybe off-line is
best
>since this is not directly EFI.
>
>Thanks for the bandwidth.
>
>KV.
>
>
>________________________________________________
>  Kevin Vannorsdel     IBM Arm Electronics Development
>    408-256-6492                Tie 276-6492     kv@us.ibm.com


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 17:27:04 1998
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From: Mike Morrin <mikem@southern.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Ignition Problem (sorta related)
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At 04:26 PM 8/10/98 -0400, Kevin Vannorsdel wrote:
>
>My VW motor (OK- engine) has this problem that it only runs decent if I
pull a
>few of the spark plug wires out of the dist cap a bit...    actually-  it
only
>runs good when I pull it out far enough that it starts arching from the
cap to
>the wire...
>
>If I make a good snug electrical connection... the cylinder never fires (and
>the bug runs real crummy)

Normally this is a sign of fouled or shorted spark plugs (does your engione
burn oil?).  You can simulate the cure all the time by filing the end of
the distributor rotor to give a gap of 1mm or so. 

regards,

Mike

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 17:28:39 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Injector Driver Module
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 16:27:53 -0500
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Jose'  Thanks for the info you have posted, I need all the help I can get
with my driver project.

	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Jose  Rodriguez [SMTP:JRodriguez@impcotechnologies.com]
	Sent:	Monday, August 10, 1998 2:22 PM
	To:	DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
	Subject:	Re: Injector Driver Module

	Don, thanks for your reply.

	  I am going to fire them sequentially, like you indicate below.
Yes, I also see that the factory heatsinks on the driver transistors are not
big, and that is what surprises me.
	  The only explanation I have so far is that the injectors used by
the OEM modules are the saturated type (16 ohms, and the driver is not
working on the linear region, but saturated, and hence very little power is
dissipated there). Unfortunately, I need to drive peak-and-hold injectors
(1.5..2.3 ohms).
	  Over the 360 crank degrees, the injectors will be fired
approximately like this:
	#1 (0 degrees), #8 (45 deg), #4 (90), #3 (135), #6 (180), #5 (225),
#7 (270), #2 (315).

	  Every driver would be on up to 85% of the time, so no matter what
the timing sequence is, every power driver will conduct the Hold current (1
amp) for 85% of the time, so the average power dissipated on the driver
module box is:
	  [ (Battery Voltage)-(Hold Current)*(Coil Resistance) ]*(Hold
Current)*(Duty Cycle)*(number of injectors) =
	  so assuming worst case (Maximum battery voltage):
	  [ (16)-(1)*(1.5) ]*(1)*(0.85)*(8) = 98.6W!

	  How much power is being dissipated in your module?

	>>> <Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com> 08/10/98 10:47AM >>>
	I'm working on an  injector driving module also. If you are going to
fire
	the injectors sequentially, then one injector would be on at a time
in the
	firing order sequence (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 GM V-8)  If you are going to
batch
	<snip>

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 17:41:26 1998
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Subject: Re: Open loop at WOT???
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> From:          "Gary Derian" <gderian@cybergate.net>
> To:            <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Subject:       Re: Open loop at WOT???
> Date:          Mon, 3 Aug 1998 17:49:31 -0400
> Reply-to:      diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

The rev limiter is a little scary, i thought i lost it a few times.
alex
> The V-12 Mercedes engine originally ran rich for max power at WOT.  It was
> recalibrated to remain in closed loop at WOT to reduce emissions.  The power
> was reduced from 406 hp to 389.  Top speed was still governed to 155 mph.
> 
> I think warranty considerations cause most OEMs to set the fuel rich at WOT.
> 
> Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> 
> >Thanks for the response, Richard.  I suspected that that might be part of
> >it, but wasn't sure.  I guess the OEMs don't think their cooling systems
> are
> >up to the task at consistent WOT?  Or is it because detonation is more
> >likely at WOT?
> >
> >At any rate, thank you for the answer.
> >
> >GR
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: richard vandervoort [SMTP:fastski@mailexcite.com]
> >> Sent: Monday, August 03, 1998 2:06 PM
> >> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> >> Cc: george.reiswig@intel.com
> >> Subject: Open loop at WOT???
> >>
> >> The OEMs purposely run rich at WOT because the engine
> >> runs cooler.  Emission are not regulated and there
> >> isn't any effect on MPG numbers since they do not use
> >> WOT during fuel economy testing, so there isn't any
> >> penalty for running rich.  Someone has probably already answered this,
> but
> >> I couldn't find it in the archive.
> >>
> >>
> >> Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
> >> http://www.mailexcite.com
> 
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 17:43:21 1998
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Subject: Ignition Problem (sorta related)
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Back in my Enduro days this was a "known" trick among us riders to get a 2
Stroke Motor to fire after fouling a plug. Funny back then I always
wondered what phenomenon was causing it. My WAG ( Wild Ass Guess )  is the
voltage going across the plug gap will be higher because the coil now will
have to store a higher voltage to over come the two gaps in series. The
higher voltage punches through the gasoline and air making the carbon
resistor on the insulator ( due to carbon fouling ) a higher resistance
than the ionised fuel mixture. To the list, am I even close ???

Regards
Gorden



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 17:56:19 1998
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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 17:59:19 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
From: Jim Lill <jpl@vectorbd.com>
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Thanks... I've looked at that... in fact I have a link to it from my own
L-Jet/Bosch page

http://www.vectorbd.com/peugeot/bosch.html


-Jim Lill  http://www.vectorbd.com/users/jpl




From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 18:05:17 1998
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Funny Gorden, 

That old trick still works in todays modern two stroke motocrossers.  We ride
KTM big bores here in NM and sometimes because of altitudes we ride in the
plug may sometimes foul.  I just reach up and remove the plug wire and set it
on the plug and kick it few times, sometimes it fires sometimes I have to
replace the plug.

The coil only applies as much voltage as is required to jump the gap, and yes
it will require a little more to jump two gaps.  The average coil in the end
will only have so much on hand to meter out to jump the gaps, but within
reason it will have ample voltage and current to jump a couple .060 gaps with
relative ease.

Tom Wong

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 18:08:57 1998
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From: "Jose  Rodriguez" <JRodriguez@impcotechnologies.com>
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Subject: Re: Injector Driver Module
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Mike, thanks for the response.

  Yes, there is the method of doing PWM to hold the injector current. And that solves the power dissipation problem.

  But it creates a HUGE problem with electromagnetic radiation (EMI), since the injector coil's current will be switched on/off, creating 6A peaks and big inductor spikes.

  In order to reduce the EMI, shielded cables, etc etc would be needed, that could make the module very expensive or not practical.

  Regards,

Jose

>>> Mike Morrin <mikem@southern.co.nz> 08/10/98 01:20PM >>>
At 11:17 AM 8/10/98 -0700, Jose  Rodriguez wrote:
>  There are mainly two types of injector coils: the saturated and the
peak-and-hold ones.
>  The saturated coils typically have 16 ohms resistance and yes, if I used
them the power dissipation would be greatly reduced on the injector driver
side, specially since I could saturate my drivers, so the power would be
negligible.
>
>  If most OEM coils are saturated, that would explain why they can do it
with such small heatsinks. I wish I could put the module in the interior,
but that is not an option.
>
>  Unfortunately, I am currently being forced to use the peak and hold
coils (1.5..2.3 ohms), because the injectors are to deliver a very high
mass flow, and work over -40..125C. I am told the saturated coils can not
reliably work under those conditions.

I thought I saw somewhere a circuit which generated the hold current by PWM
of the injector current, so the drivers were always saturated or off.  I
cannot remeber where I saw it, or whether it just used the internal
iductance of the injector, or an extra external inductor.

regards,

Mike


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 18:19:15 1998
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> With both ecms "running" having the +5v for the sensors tied together
> seems to generate "No Smoke".
> 
> Next question, does this only work with both ecms powered up?.
>   Can I have them wired like this and be running only one at a time?.
> Seems like there is enough internal resistance to the off ecm not
> to hurt things, but I only did this momentarily.
> 
> Would the real answer be using ganged pots?.  I've tried looking in
> my digi-key, and a couple other catalogs, but turned up no sources.
> 
> When doing pulse generators, is it better to use a 558, and use a
> 4017 for getting low rpm signals?.   For those veiwing from afar
> the reason is that I need to get accurate 200 rpm steps.  The gms
> from what I read do interpolation from one step to the next for
> timing etc, so I gots to be close, to read changes accurately.
> 
> Much more and it seems like a commercial used freguency generator
> will be the answer.  So if ya got a working gen please e-mail me.
> 
> Thanks again
> Bruce               nacelp@bright.net

I think you'll find that the 'ON' ECM will try to power the 'OFF' ECM. 
Not usually a good thing, considering that the 5v regs in the 'ON' ECM
is not meant to supply that much current.
				Scott...

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 18:23:33 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Injector Driver Module
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Orin,  According to  Haynes techbook, fuel injection 1986-1996 (10220) "The
duty cycle is the ratio of injector on- time to total on-and- off time. In
other words, it's a variable % of one complete injector operating cycle" .
2msec on 1msec off
Equals  3msec total injector time 2/3= 66% duty cycle.  At high RPM the
Pulse width (on time) will  be  say 10 to 20 msec then off about 5 msec  20
+5 = 25  complete cycle. 20 msec on time / 25 = 80% duty cycle . We need to
know what rpm and what pulse width the on-off times will be. I still believe
the switching transistors voltage drop (Vsat)  Frequency of operation  and
current through the transistor will give you the heat that needs to be heat
sinked. 

 
Just my .02 cents
                               
 
Don 





	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Orin Eman [SMTP:orin@wolfenet.com]
	Sent:	Monday, August 10, 1998 3:23 PM
	To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
	Subject:	Re: Injector Driver Module


	> Then only 4 would be on at a time.  The factory heat sinks on the
driver
	> transistors are not that big so I doubt that the power dissipated
is very
	> high.  The duty cycle is a combination of on time and off time, so
even at
	> 85% the injector would
	> Only be on for less than half of the time. The frequency of the
injector
	> pulse needs to be known, at 6000 rpm the ignition

	Nope, sorry, 85% duty cycle means on 85% of the time, off 15% of the
time.

	Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 19:46:15 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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-----Original Message-----
From: goflo@pacbell.net <goflo@pacbell.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, August 10, 1998 4:52 PM
Subject: Re: programming 101 and checksum


>Bruce Plecan wrote:
>
>> The inputs are, intake air temp, coolant emp, MAP, TPS, distributor
>> reference pulse, tranny 4th gear, park neutral switch, vss signal.
>> 
>> The coolant temp/intake air temp are easy.
>> 
>> Having something that reacts to TPS is another matter.
>>   MAP is high, engine off, and then drops at engine run.
>>   MAP varies with little with TPS,
>>   High rpm, MAP is almost atmospheric like at start up.
>> 
>> At 40 mph low tps have a 4th gear engaged signal, so ecm can
>>   apply TCC.
>> 
>> Would be nice to introduce an engine miss option at idle to see
>> what the ecm does about it.
>> 
>> Having O2 feedback would be a nice option.  Sudden change in
>> pulse width high O2.
>
>**********************************************************************
>
>Intake air temp:  What is the range of the sensor? 

-40dC to 100dC    100,700ohms at -40, to 185 ohms at 100dC
>                  
>                  Is tempco positive or negative? 
>                  IOW, does resistance go up or down 
>                  as temp goes up? 

Resistance goes down as temp goes up
>                  
>                  What voltage does the ECU apply to 
>                  the sensor? (Disconnect the sensor 
>                  and measure across the ECU terminals.)

5v
>
>Coolant temp:     Likewise.

Exactly the same as Intake air
>
>MAP:              0-5V, 1 bar is 5V approx. Correct?

Engine off 4.9ish, idle like 2+, WOT slightly less than key on engine off
>
>TPS:              0-5V, throttle closed to WOT. Yes?

In general .5v at idle, 4.8 WOT fine.
>
>Dist. ref pulse:  How many pulses per rev? 

v-8, 4   v-6, 3

>                  Amplitude? (5V?) 

I've been using the voltage drop across a LED to the module as
the rpm signal.

>                  When does it occur? (TDC?) 

Base timing varies per application, 0-10d BTDC
>
>4th gear switch:  Is it a switch? 

Yes

>                  How many wires go to it?      

One grounded when applied.
>
>neutral/park sw:  Ditto.

One wire, grounded in gear.
>
>VSS:              What is it?

Vehicle Speed Sensor,  2000 pulses per mile.  12V
>
>TCC:              What is it?  

Torque Converter Clutch,  ecm grounds a solenoid to apply.
>
>O2 sensor:        Conventional O2 sensors put out 0-1 V. Is this
>                  the input to the ECU? 

Yes
>
>What is the max rate of change of engine rpm?

600-6000 rpm in 2 sec.s in first gear.
>
>What kind of PC do you have?

IBM Comp.   Windoze 98. 
>
>Hang with me on this. I know its a pain, but I can't read your mind.
>This way you get what you want instead of what I think you want.

Very Kewl, no problems here
Cheers
Bruce
>
>Regards, Jack
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 19:56:52 1998
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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 15:49:39 -0500
From: Steve Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
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Good luck on project . I was looking at those 1000 + buck sensors and noticed
the short life they had , maybe they now have a longer life one . Wanted to
build one with strain gauge and compensate for temp. with the temp comp. version
. I also have torsion version of  the strain gauge . Larson Hall Labs sell under
or over etched gauges for a buck each and you can adjust the value by using a
electric high speed drill  and a qtip chucked up then dip in auto body leveling
compound and buff till the desired resistance is achieved . Very much interested
in your sensors results. Sorry bit off the EFI path .

Steve

pisa wrote:

> Hi Everybody,
>
>              I am working as postgraduate student on some project related
> to engine management and I will be very pleased, if somebody can
> advice me some good articles and URLs about engine models.
> Matlab and simulink models will be great too.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> What we have already done :
>
> We have designed ignition control with 80C552 processor.
> All parameters and maps can be changed from on-board
> portable PC. Values of actual pressure, RPM, temperature etc.
> can be read and stored on HD and then analyzed.
>
> Our prototype was tested for 6 months on Skoda Forman car.
> Czech company Magneton is testing this prototype on
> city bus reconstructed for methane gas.
>
> Our actual research goal is optimization of engine cycle on road.
> We wanted to measure engine torque. This is little problematic,
> it means to cut some shaft and add tensometric torque sensor.
> So we decided to try measure cylinder pressure and reconstruct
> P-V diagram, torque and effectiveness. We have drill hole into one cylinder.
> We are relatively poor, so we have decided to try design our own
> pressure piezoelectric sensor. We are waiting now, if it can work ????
> If it will, I will announce it construction to everybody interested in it.
>
> We are thinking about 68376 for future projects.
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Again, I need some good engine model.
> If you have seen good one,  say me about it, please.
>
>                 Thank in advance
>                                 Pavel Pisa
>                                 pisa@cmp.felk.cvut.cz
>
> PS: Please CC reply to my e-mail too.




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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Mike Morrin <mikem@southern.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Injector Driver Module
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At 03:04 PM 8/10/98 -0700, Jose  Rodriguez wrote:
>Mike, thanks for the response.
>
>  Yes, there is the method of doing PWM to hold the injector current. And
that solves the power dissipation problem.
>
>  But it creates a HUGE problem with electromagnetic radiation (EMI),
since the injector coil's current will be switched on/off, creating 6A
peaks and big inductor spikes.
>
>  In order to reduce the EMI, shielded cables, etc etc would be needed,
that could make the module very expensive or not practical.
>

You would have a much smaller EMI problem if you used an inductor on your
driver pcb, with flywheel and smoothing so that the current to the
injectors was DC.

I suspect though that heatsinks are cheaper than inductors.

regards,

Miek

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 22:01:27 1998
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Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 22:04:01 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <clare.snyder.on.ca@ibm.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Ignition Problem (sorta related)
References: <5030050017524930000002L502*@MHS>
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Kevin Vannorsdel wrote:
> 
>  This is a tad off-topic..... but may still be of interest.
> 
> My VW motor (OK- engine) has this problem that it only runs decent if I pull a
> few of the spark plug wires out of the dist cap a bit...    actually-  it only
> runs good when I pull it out far enough that it starts arching from the cap to
> the wire...
> 
> If I make a good snug electrical connection... the cylinder never fires (and
> the bug runs real crummy)
> 
> I am sure this is a common problem and must have something to do with the
> voltage built up by the coil... can anyone comment...?  Maybe off-line is best
> since this is not directly EFI.
> 
> Thanks for the bandwidth.
> 
> KV.
> 
> ________________________________________________
>   Kevin Vannorsdel     IBM Arm Electronics Development
>     408-256-6492                Tie 276-6492     kv@us.ibm.com
sounds like bad plugs.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B

                       ISP trouble again!!!
                I am now clare.snyder.on.ca@ibm.net
              Hopefully Snyder.on.ca will be back up soon

                           Clare Snyder
                         Waterloo, Ontario

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 10 23:06:36 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Ignition Problem (sorta related)
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>Funny Gorden,
>
>That old trick still works in todays modern two stroke motocrossers.  We ride
>KTM big bores here in NM and sometimes because of altitudes we ride in the
>plug may sometimes foul.  I just reach up and remove the plug wire and set it
>on the plug and kick it few times, sometimes it fires sometimes I have to
>replace the plug.
>
>The coil only applies as much voltage as is required to jump the gap, and yes
>it will require a little more to jump two gaps.  The average coil in the end
>will only have so much on hand to meter out to jump the gaps, but within
>reason it will have ample voltage and current to jump a couple .060 gaps with
>relative ease.
>
>Tom Wong
        What's really going on here is that oil fouling on the plug is a
conductor of sorts. If the oil leaks current too fast (faster than the rise
rate of the coil can build voltage) the plug never fires. A second gap in
the secondary circuit (prior to the one where you want the fire) prevents
any charge from leaking across the fouled gap. When the spark jumps the
first gap, you get a much faster voltage rise across the one in the hole
than you would directly from the coil. "R' type plugs are built to do
exactly this full time. If you doubt me, buy an R type plug, break it, and
observe the gap in the center electrode! Yep, you get a lower voltage spark
across the gap in the hole, but the faster rise rate is often enough to
make it fire, even when it won't do so otherwise.
                                        Regards, Greg :)



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug 11 00:00:48 1998
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From: "Matt Watts" <mwatts@cs.utah.edu>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Bipolar Injectors
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 1998 22:48:57 -0500
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Here's one for you injector specialists...

Standard fuel injectors are not bipolar right?
Meaning that they will open regardless of which direction
you apply the current.

Does any known company manufacture a bipolar injector that,
opens when current is applied in one directions and that
is electrically slammed shut when the voltage is reverse?
The reason that I ask is that I have a peek-hold-reverse solenoid
driver circuit for this type of inductor that would in effect
allow someone to push the injector over the magical 85% duty
cycle with predictable (useable) results--probably closer to
94% in WOT applications.

Always curious,

Matt
____________



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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Injector Driver Module
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>Mike, thanks for the response.
>
>  Yes, there is the method of doing PWM to hold the injector current. And
>that solves the power dissipation problem.
>
>  But it creates a HUGE problem with electromagnetic radiation (EMI),
>since the injector coil's current will be switched on/off, creating 6A
>peaks and big inductor spikes.
>
>  In order to reduce the EMI, shielded cables, etc etc would be needed,
>that could make the module very expensive or not practical.
>
>  Regards,
>
>Jose
>
>>>> Mike Morrin <mikem@southern.co.nz> 08/10/98 01:20PM >>>
>At 11:17 AM 8/10/98 -0700, Jose  Rodriguez wrote:
>>  There are mainly two types of injector coils: the saturated and the
>peak-and-hold ones.
>>  The saturated coils typically have 16 ohms resistance and yes, if I used
>them the power dissipation would be greatly reduced on the injector driver
>side, specially since I could saturate my drivers, so the power would be
>negligible.
>>
>>  If most OEM coils are saturated, that would explain why they can do it
>with such small heatsinks. I wish I could put the module in the interior,
>but that is not an option.
>>
>>  Unfortunately, I am currently being forced to use the peak and hold
>coils (1.5..2.3 ohms), because the injectors are to deliver a very high
>mass flow, and work over -40..125C. I am told the saturated coils can not
>reliably work under those conditions.
>
>I thought I saw somewhere a circuit which generated the hold current by PWM
>of the injector current, so the drivers were always saturated or off.  I
>cannot remeber where I saw it, or whether it just used the internal
>iductance of the injector, or an extra external inductor.
>
>regards,
>
>Mike
I don't care at all if it's more expensive, or harder to design (to avoid
EMI problems). The PWM approach is really the only way to fly on drivers
meant to run peak and hold injectors!
>From an old racer's point of view:
1. I would want the @#$% thing designed to take a 100% duty cycle, plus
about a 25 or 50% service factor. The injector drivers just shouldn't be
one of the parts which has the potential to bring you to a stop. Period.
2. A PWM type driver (on a board which is designed to quiet things down and
ground DC from the injector) could be completely programmable as to BOTH
opening current and holding current, as well as to duration of the opening
current. It could be programmed to let a jerk like me who wants to run a
straight 24 volt electrical system simply program the thing to deal with
it, rather than worry about the size of the heat sinks with a non-standard
voltage. It would also let a body do some development work to see what
opening and holding currents the injectors could really live with without
coming apart or frying.
3. Now that I'm getting warmed up, the really cool approach would be to set
the board up so that it feeds back to the CPU what the opening and holding
currents are for control and correction. Of course, this would be a more
stable control loop if the CPU were also looking at supply voltage and
pre-adjusting injector PWM signals accordingly. Anyone want to make book on
how many cold start problems would go away with this kind of an approach?
4. Why in @#$%^ would we have chosen to design a unit using a -332 based
CPU if the objective was to be like Detroit and only be elegant at saving
pennies?
5. On the duty cycle thing: there is only one way to see where you are.
Multiply WOT horsepower per cylinder by expected BSFC (for the purposes of
this calculation, use .5 lbs./BHP-hour for a naturally aspirated motor, .55
for a turbo motor, and .6 for a supercharged motor.) This will give you the
required flow, in lbs. per hour required for each injector. Dividing this
number by the rated flow of the injectors to be used will give you the duty
cycle (% of real time that the injector must be open in order to flow
enough fuel to make the power required. Period.
6. Since a high performance engine has a wider dynamic power range than a
stocker,(bigger ratio of maximum power to minimum power) it necessarily
needs a bigger turndown ratio on its injectors than a stocker (or it will
have a soggy, lumpy, messy rich idle, (or fried pistons) among other
things.
7. If anyone out there can make really decent power out of a motor, and
als
