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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 06:16:54 1998
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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Renault F1 V10
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 20:14:34 +1000
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Hi all,

All this talk about where injectors should go reminded me of a video I have. It's about the Renault F1 V10 engine.
It's about the engine development Renault conducted for the Williams team back in '96.

Anyway, there is a section which has the engine running on a dyno, and a close up of it showed what looked like the injectors sitting on top of the trumpets, spraying fluid into the trumpets. Amazing stuff, but they never explained why these injectors were positioned above the trumpets instead of the usual place. 

Viz: 10 trumpets and 10 injectors positioned above, complete with fuel rail.

Note: I am assuming it was injecting fuel, as there were no other injectors I could see below the trumpets.

Anyone want to take a guess?

Ants.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 07:38:17 1998
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Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 07:39:03 -0500
From: Robert Gallant <gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Cc: efi335@hotmail.com
Subject: Re: boost presser  and power gain
References: <19980831195035.19605.qmail@hotmail.com>
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> What interdependence is between boost presser  and power gain?
> If not turbo engine is 100 hp, what power growth will obtain by 2 bar
> (absolute) boost? And how march reduction of compression ratio will
> needed?
> 
> If anyone has these formulas,  please let me know!


Here's the equations from the old book Street Supercharging.


Pr = (Pa + Pb) / Pa
Y = (Pr^.283) - 1
dTi = Y(T + 460)   Note:  adding 460 changes temp to deg Rankine.
dTa = dTi / Ea
Td = dTa + T
Dr = Pr(T + 460)/(Td + 460)


dTa = Actual temp increase
dTi = Ideal temp increase due to increasing pressure
Dr  = Density ratio
Ea  = Adiabatic efficiency
Pa  = Atmospheric Pressure (14.7 psia)
Pb  = Boost Pressure (psig)
Pr  = Pressure Ratio
T   = Intake air temp in deg F
Td  = Discharge temp

Here are some numbers as a check:

Adiabatic effic = .68
Atmos Pressure = 14.7 psia
Temperature = 80 F
Boost Pressure = 8 psig

Td = 183.9 F
Dr = 1.295

Multiply unboosted HP by DR to get a rough guesstimate of boosted HP.

Remember this is only a guesstimate!!  It doesn't account for the HP
required to turn the supercharger (-), the superchargers ability to
overcome intake inefficiencies (+), ...

If you want to see the effect of an intercooler just modify Td for the
temp drop across the intercooler and Dr for the pressure drop across the
intercooler.

I don't have any advice about compression.  I'm running a supercharged
'86 Rx7 (roots type supercharger) with stock compression 9.4:1 at 11 psi
of boost on 94 octane fuel, and 15 deg of timing retard.

BTW:  If anyone is interested, I put the equations into a MatLAB script.

-- 
Rob
MailTo:gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 07:52:39 1998
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cybergate.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Injector Sizing: not dumb questions at all
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 07:51:46 -0400
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In my opinion, I think the Oberg injectors are just the ticket for a 2
stroke where you have to inject fuel after the exhaust port closes.  On a 4
stroke, however, the gains will be small if any because there is ample time
to mix during the compression stroke.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

>For something that impressed me as very much as being a peek into the
>future, take a peek at the web site that Stuart Baly called our attention
>to over the weekend, amid the smoke. "www.orbeng.com.au". Their stuff would
>appear to offer the best yet. Their financial data appear to indicate that
>people like Siemens, Daimler, and Bosch agree with this assessment. The
>neatest thing about it is that I see no reason not to stab the Orbital air
>assisted injectors (the actual fuel injectors, which, in turn, plug into
>them,  are standard stuff) into the existing bungs on an existing TPI
>engine and go from there. One would have twice as many drivers, (one for
>fuel injectors, one for air valves) but hey--I hear Sandy already has some
>grey hairs! Orbital claims maximum droplet size of 8 microns coming out of
>the injector. Obviously, if these units can direct inject, they are quick
>enough to match injection with inhale in a TPI system without resorting to
>staged injectors. The Orbital air injectors are in production in Michigan,
>and available through the Mercury Marine parts system, as (that) Merc has
>had engines (their DFI-200) in production using them for two years!!!!!
>(All I know SO FAR!!)
>
>Anybody out there care to place a wager on how much improvement in: torque,
>power, and BSFC would be seen with this type of a conversion on an
>otherwise same TPI engine???? (Tom--I've got first dibs on any bets against
>improvements.)
>
>Regards, Greg
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 08:07:23 1998
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From: Michael Kasimirsky <mtk@tmc.astm.cmri.cmu.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Renault F1 V10
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 08:06:42 -0400 
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> All this talk about where injectors should go reminded me of 
> a video I have. It's about the Renault F1 V10 engine.
> It's about the engine development Renault conducted for the 
> Williams team back in '96.

First off, I would LOVE to see that video...  Care to get in the video
rental business?  :-)  
Where did you get this video?  I'd really like to get my hands on a copy
of this.

Can you see the throttle assemblies?  I'd like to see the barrel
throttles that
are used on F1 engines.
 
> Anyway, there is a section which has the engine running on a 
> dyno, and a close up of it showed what looked like the 
> injectors sitting on top of the trumpets, spraying fluid into 
> the trumpets. Amazing stuff, but they never explained why 
> these injectors were positioned above the trumpets instead of 
> the usual place. 

>From what I understand, the injectors are mounted in that location to
try and 
improve the quality of the mixture.  An F1 engine turns 17,000 rpm and
consequently
has very little time for injection of fuel and atomization of same.  So
they mount the 
injectors above the intake velocity stack to give the fuel some extra
time and distance to
get mixed with the incoming air.

Michael Kasimirsky            1990 Yamaha FZR400 Superbike Racer
Loki Motorsports              1993 Kawasaki ZX1100D1 Streetbike Rider
FASTTRAX & WERA Novice #22  Sponsored by Loki Motorsports, Bridgestone, 
mtk@tmc.astm.cmri.cmu.edu        Street & Competition, and AGV.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 08:10:20 1998
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Date: Mon, 31 Aug 1998 10:40:30 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
From: John Hess <johnhess@cris.com>
Subject: Re: Kalmaker
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First of all, Kalmaker is not just software.  It also has an emulator that
plugs into the MEMCAL slot in the computer.  It "talks" to this emulator
via the ALDL port on your car.  I have one on order (from TPIS) and hope to
be able to tell you more about it at a later date.

At 01:36 PM 8/13/98 +1000, Geoff & Sue Richards wrote:
>Opinions wanted on Kalmaker software (any good?)What is real-time
>programming?
>If these questions are not applicable to group anybody point me to the right
>archives or private
>e-mail
>Thanks
>Geoff
>
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 08:21:23 1998
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Might be something do with air velocity -- outside the trumpet the air velocity will be slower.
It could also be some to with the cloud of fuel mist stand-off you always get around the entrance trumpets.

ants wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> All this talk about where injectors should go reminded me of a video I have. It's about the Renault F1 V10 engine.
> It's about the engine development Renault conducted for the Williams team back in '96.
>
> Anyway, there is a section which has the engine running on a dyno, and a close up of it showed what looked like the injectors sitting on top of the trumpets, spraying fluid into the trumpets. Amazing stuff, but they never explained why these injectors were positioned above the trumpets instead of the usual place.
>
> Viz: 10 trumpets and 10 injectors positioned above, complete with fuel rail.
>
> Note: I am assuming it was injecting fuel, as there were no other injectors I could see below the trumpets.
>
> Anyone want to take a guess?
>
> Ants.




From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 08:40:27 1998
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From: "Geoff & Sue Richards" <geoffsue@one.net.au>
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Has the list gone down?
geoffsue@one.net.au
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/6724/
http://www2.one.net.au/~geoffsue
If you have ICQ you can message me. My ICQ#:15292841
Like This Internet Resource? Click to Recommend-It (tm)
<http://recommend-it.com/l.z.e?s=186829>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 08:58:06 1998
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On Mon, 31 Aug 1998, Sandy wrote:
> Ok, I need to get a programmer that will burn Bipolar 82SXXX and 74SXXX
> proms. Who has a low cost one that can toast the old Bipolar relics without
> a multi-mega-dollar adapter board?

Ya might ask the folks at General Device Instr if they've
got a used dust collector. 2 programmers may be cheaper than 1
in this case.
www.generaldevice.com

-greg


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 09:17:50 1998
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Injector Sizing: REALLY dumb question
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>> For these reasons I've heard (unconfirmed rumours) that F1 cars
>> heat the fuel to 300deg before injection. No droplets at all - all
>> vapour. You can't argue with 900HP from 3L normally aspirated.
>>
>This sounds like the famous Pouge carburetor in the 1930's
>would get over 100 mpg by vaporizing all the fuel
>alex

Another collorary of Marphy's Law: There's nothing new under the sun!!

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 09:19:49 1998
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>I'm non-commital on the subject of leather, discipline, etc, Greg.
>Was hoping to concentrate on FI fundamentals....Of course mention
>of fundaments will rile up some segments of the community...
>
>Regards, Jack

Do tell---- Greg
>
>Greg Hermann wrote:
>> A lot to be said for that prof's (nick-named "Black Bart") saying that
>> "every engineering student who signs up for a class has the God given right
>> to flunk it!"  Do I finally get the fun of being on the other side of that
>> one???? Will there be whips and leathers and chains involved???



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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: Renault F1 V10
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-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew W. Macfadyen <am018@post.almac.co.uk>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 9:16 AM
Subject: Re: Renault F1 V10


Also, might consider the fact that that stuff has almost nothing
in common with what we think of as gasoline.  Last quote I
heard was that it was like $35 per liter.  Also, extremely toxic.
If ya can look at the breathing gear the refueler wears.
Cheers
Bruce


>Might be something do with air velocity -- outside the trumpet the air
velocity will be slower.
>It could also be some to with the cloud of fuel mist stand-off you always
get around the entrance trumpets.
>
>ants wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> All this talk about where injectors should go reminded me of a video I
have. It's about the Renault F1 V10 engine.
>> It's about the engine development Renault conducted for the Williams team
back in '96.
>>
>> Anyway, there is a section which has the engine running on a dyno, and a
close up of it showed what looked like the injectors sitting on top of the
trumpets, spraying fluid into the trumpets. Amazing stuff, but they never
explained why these injectors were positioned above the trumpets instead of
the usual place.
>>
>> Viz: 10 trumpets and 10 injectors positioned above, complete with fuel
rail.
>>
>> Note: I am assuming it was injecting fuel, as there were no other
injectors I could see below the trumpets.
>>
>> Anyone want to take a guess?
>>
>> Ants.
>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 10:11:32 1998
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Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 09:11:26 -0500
From: Joe Boucher <BoucherJC@lmtas.lmco.com>
Subject: Re: Injector Sizing: REALLY dumb question
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
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> > For these reasons I've heard (unconfirmed rumours) that F1 cars
> > heat the fuel to 300deg before injection. No droplets at all - all
> > vapour. You can't argue with 900HP from 3L normally aspirated.
> >
> This sounds like the famous Pouge carburetor in the 1930's
> would get over 100 mpg by vaporizing all the fuel
> alex

I thought it was 200 mpg?

Joe Boucher
'70 RS/SS Camaro  '81 TBI Suburban


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 10:46:13 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: PROM Programmers
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 09:44:17 -0500 
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I have a circuit for a 82S23 fuse link prom programmer that is easy to
build. Since it is only 32 bits it doesn't take long to program. I also have
a Data I/O 29A programmer that should handle your parts. I have spare 82S23
proms that I would program for you if you sent the address and data info.
 
Take care 
 
Don  

	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Sandy [SMTP:sganz@wgn.net]
	Sent:	Monday, August 31, 1998 9:39 PM
	To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
	Subject:	PROM Programmers

	Ok, I need to get a programmer that will burn Bipolar 82SXXX and
74SXXX
	proms. Who has a low cost one that can toast the old Bipolar relics
without
	a multi-mega-dollar adapter board?

	Sandy

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 10:50:36 1998
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> Ignoring the issue of detonation, how ignitable are lean mixtures? Or
> rather, how lean can you make the mixture and still be able to ignite
> it? What if you allow for a seriously powerful ignition, and/or bump
> the CR up a lot? It seems a bit weird to me that lean mixtures are
> more prone to detonation (which indicates to me a mixture near
> optimum, or near one of perhaps 2 optimums) and also considered to
> be hard to ignite - or is that only at a *much* leaner A/F ratio?
> 
I have heard reports of 26:1;  If your engine is still running above 
20:1 the extra air will prevent detonation.  The Japaneese have
production engines, I am not sure if used yet in states.
This is one of the reasons for the development of the wide range
O2 sensor.
alex

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 10:50:42 1998
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> More like infamous.
> Ever hear of the "fish" (or some variation) carburetor?
> 
Yes, do you still have your weird and strange carb. book of forgotten
patents or something, I lost mine many moons ago.
Warning to inventors on this list
One of these inventors did a Jimmy Hoffa.
GM rules.
alex 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 11:02:31 1998
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 01 Sep 1998 08:00:34 -0700
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 08:00:34 -0700
From: Adrian Teo <adrian.teo@asu.edu>
Subject: Re: Renault F1 V10
In-reply-to: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net> <"Re: Renault F1 V10"@asu.edu>
 (Sep 1, 9:25)
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On Sep 1,  9:25, Bruce Plecan wrote:
> Also, might consider the fact that that stuff has almost nothing
> in common with what we think of as gasoline.  Last quote I
> heard was that it was like $35 per liter.  Also, extremely toxic.
> If ya can look at the breathing gear the refueler wears.


....hope you don't mind me interjecting...

According to F1 regulations, the gasoline used in F1 cars is pump quality
petrol and to be legal for use, has to be sold at the pump. Since no after-pump
additives are allowed, this is usually 108 octane or better UNLEADED gasoline.

The pit crew are so dressed not because of toxic fumes but for safety measures.
There have been many a time where fuel ignites (due to some problem or
otherwise) during pitstops. The breathing gear increases the crew member's
surviability.

...anyway, back to the main discussion.

Having had the opportunity to have seen/handled the Renault V10 RS6 and RS7
first hand, the injectors are so placed (along a rail above the throttle body
stacks) for optimal A/F mix.

These engines are designed to be operated in excess of 15000 rpm and hence to
maximize the intake efficiency the intake stacks are very short. However higher
RPM's also mean that the fast moving air has less time to mix with the fuel.
Hence, the injectors are made to spray directly into the intake stack from a
distance to allow the A/F charge to mix properly. Also, since these engines are
hardly operated at part-throttle situations, the presence of the throttle
plates downstream of the injectors do not cause that much fuel condensation...

-AT

-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Adrian Teo                               e-mail: adrian.teo@asu.edu
System Administator                              
Instruction Support, Arizona State University                           
Ph: 602.965.9411                         http://hybrid.asu.edu
Fx: 602.965.2724     Pg:602.204.1831     e-page: adrian@falcon.asu.edu
------------------------------------------------------------------------

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 11:21:18 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: PROM Programmers
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I think the MODEMPU from JDR at $129 may be the ticket, finally found out
they can do bipolars, and a ton of other things. Good price too!

Sandy

At 07:58 AM 9/1/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>On Mon, 31 Aug 1998, Sandy wrote:
>> Ok, I need to get a programmer that will burn Bipolar 82SXXX and 74SXXX
>> proms. Who has a low cost one that can toast the old Bipolar relics without
>> a multi-mega-dollar adapter board?
>
>Ya might ask the folks at General Device Instr if they've
>got a used dust collector. 2 programmers may be cheaper than 1
>in this case.
>www.generaldevice.com
>
>-greg
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 11:26:11 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: RE: PROM Programmers
In-Reply-To: <D3286A3F9D0ED111A2C40080D8700D981018AD@cccntxch02.ceco.com
 >
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the 82S23 will not quite do it. I also have a simple parallel port hack for
the bipolars, but the software is stuck in some other program that I can't
really work with. 

Thanks, any-a-ways!

Sandy

At 09:44 AM 9/1/98 -0500, you wrote:
>I have a circuit for a 82S23 fuse link prom programmer that is easy to
>build. Since it is only 32 bits it doesn't take long to program. I also have
>a Data I/O 29A programmer that should handle your parts. I have spare 82S23
>proms that I would program for you if you sent the address and data info.
> 
>Take care 
> 
>Don  
>
>	-----Original Message-----
>	From:	Sandy [SMTP:sganz@wgn.net]
>	Sent:	Monday, August 31, 1998 9:39 PM
>	To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>	Subject:	PROM Programmers
>
>	Ok, I need to get a programmer that will burn Bipolar 82SXXX and
>74SXXX
>	proms. Who has a low cost one that can toast the old Bipolar relics
>without
>	a multi-mega-dollar adapter board?
>
>	Sandy
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 11:33:29 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Injector Sizing: REALLY dumb question
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 11:36:34 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Boucher <BoucherJC@lmtas.lmco.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 10:54 AM
Subject: Re: Injector Sizing: REALLY dumb question


>> > For these reasons I've heard (unconfirmed rumours) that F1 cars
>> > heat the fuel to 300deg before injection. No droplets at all - all
>> > vapour. You can't argue with 900HP from 3L normally aspirated.
>> >
>> This sounds like the famous Pouge carburetor in the 1930's
>> would get over 100 mpg by vaporizing all the fuel
>> alex
>
>I thought it was 200 mpg?

Actually I was under the impression the Pouge was what used on the
P-38's of WW11.  Was a variable venturri, lastest form the Predator.
Gotta admit thou, designing a carb to work inverted is a trick.
Had neat little round cork floats, as I recall.  BTW, I saw a P-38
carb installed onna jeep once, kinda neat, really.  The fuel pump
looked like a coffee thermos (2 quart size)..

Cheers
Bruce    Doc spent most of the morning trying to fill his coffee
              mug while it was here.
>
>Joe Boucher
>'70 RS/SS Camaro  '81 TBI Suburban
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 12:15:00 1998
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From: "Stowe, Ted-SEA" <StowT@PerkinsCoie.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Retrofit TBI to MGB
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 09:14:23 -0700 
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isn't an L-Jettronic a 4 cyl FI, (4 injectors) ? 
with an mgb head and the Siamesed intake ports, wouldn't that be an issue ?

is there an electronic TBI from bosch ? I know the D-Jetronic was FI also.

thanks, Ted.

-----Original Message-----
From: bearbvd@sni.net [mailto:bearbvd@sni.net]
Sent: Monday, August 31, 1998 4:52 PM
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Retrofit TBI to MGB


>Hi all, I have decided to take up a project to install fuel injection in
>my MGB.  It has a 1.8L, in-line four cylinder with siamesed intake for
>cylinders 1,2 and 3,4.  I have done a small amount of study and have
>concluded that a throttle body injection system would be the easiest to
>implement.
>
>Basically, I'm looking for advice about conversion.  Am I crazy to try to
>take on such a project?
>
>I am considering air flow flap vs. MAP sensor.  Any comments?  I realize
>that the air flow valve can restrict flow, but we are talking about an
>engine that is only 95 HP or so, not a fire-breathing behemoth.
>I am looking for an existing fuel injection system from a more modern auto
>with a similar sized displacement and HP.  If I just use a fuel injection
>system, with regular mechanical distributor, would I need to consider any
>other factors?
>
>I'm hoping that I can find a system from a Ford, GM, or European auto with
>Bosch system.  Can anyone recommend systems to consider or avoid?
>
>Lastly, what literature would you guys recommend I get.  I'm a civil
>engineer by schooling, but I can understand some electronics.  My goal, if
>I can get a system to work, would be to eventually work on a system which
>would allow tuning of the computer.  Therefore, I'd like a book that is
>thorough in basic theory, but also covers the workings of the computers.
>Is there such an all-encompassing book?
>
>
>Thanks for your time
>
>Jay

Jay-- try a Bosch L-Jetronic off a Volvo B-21

Regards, Greg
>
>
>***********************************************
>Jurgen Hartwig, Civil Engineering, Georgia Tech
>
>When you were born you cried
>and the world rejoiced
>Try to live your life so that
>when you die you will rejoice
>and the world will cry.


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 12:35:00 1998
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Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 12:36:58 -0400
Subject: Re: air-assisted injectors, sort of
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Actually, for all intents and purposes the mixtures at the extreme A/F
ratios aren't mixtures at all.  The direct injection allows stratified
charging, actually close to stoich at the spark plug - pure air in the rest
of the cylinder.  The low load conditions where DI is most advantageous
actually inject after BDC on compression stroke (4- and 2-stroke) to avoid
mixing.  The heat rejection with highly lean mixtures at low load increases
efficiency to get fuel economy up.

John Bucknell


                                                                  
 (Embedded                                                        
 image moved   xxalexx@ix.netcom.com                              
 to file:      08/31/98 05:07 PM                                  
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Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

To:   diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc:
Subject:  Re: air-assisted injectors, sort of





> Ignoring the issue of detonation, how ignitable are lean mixtures? Or
> rather, how lean can you make the mixture and still be able to ignite
> it? What if you allow for a seriously powerful ignition, and/or bump
> the CR up a lot? It seems a bit weird to me that lean mixtures are
> more prone to detonation (which indicates to me a mixture near
> optimum, or near one of perhaps 2 optimums) and also considered to
> be hard to ignite - or is that only at a *much* leaner A/F ratio?
>
I have heard reports of 26:1;  If your engine is still running above
20:1 the extra air will prevent detonation.  The Japaneese have
production engines, I am not sure if used yet in states.
This is one of the reasons for the development of the wide range
O2 sensor.
alex


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 12:46:30 1998
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Good point. I'm contemplating a similar situation - FI'ing a
single-port VW bus app. The dual-ports breathe better, but the
single-port heads don't crack ...

Regards, Jack

Stowe, Ted-SEA wrote:
> 
> isn't an L-Jettronic a 4 cyl FI, (4 injectors) ?
> with an mgb head and the Siamesed intake ports, wouldn't that be an issue ?


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 13:18:32 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: Retrofit TBI to MGB
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-----Original Message-----
From: goflo@pacbell.net <goflo@pacbell.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 1:06 PM
Subject: Re: Retrofit TBI to MGB


>Good point. I'm contemplating a similar situation - FI'ing a
>single-port VW bus app. The dual-ports breathe better, but the
>single-port heads don't crack ...

That's why they invented turbos
Bruce
>
>Regards, Jack
>
>Stowe, Ted-SEA wrote:
>>
>> isn't an L-Jettronic a 4 cyl FI, (4 injectors) ?
>> with an mgb head and the Siamesed intake ports, wouldn't that be an issue
?
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 13:38:35 1998
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I like it :)

Regards, Jack

Bruce Plecan wrote:

> >Good point. I'm contemplating a similar situation - FI'ing a
> >single-port VW bus app. The dual-ports breathe better, but the
> >single-port heads don't crack ...
> 
> That's why they invented turbos


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 13:42:45 1998
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: air-assisted injectors, sort of
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>> Ignoring the issue of detonation, how ignitable are lean mixtures? Or
>> rather, how lean can you make the mixture and still be able to ignite
>> it? What if you allow for a seriously powerful ignition, and/or bump
>> the CR up a lot? It seems a bit weird to me that lean mixtures are
>> more prone to detonation (which indicates to me a mixture near
>> optimum, or near one of perhaps 2 optimums) and also considered to
>> be hard to ignite - or is that only at a *much* leaner A/F ratio?
>>
>I have heard reports of 26:1;  If your engine is still running above
>20:1 the extra air will prevent detonation.  The Japaneese have
>production engines, I am not sure if used yet in states.
>This is one of the reasons for the development of the wide range
>O2 sensor.
>alex


I believe the limit of flammability is at about 17 or 18:1 for gasoline in
air. Leaner than that and homogenous, it simply won't light, period. To run
any leaner average micture, one needs a stratified charge. A diesel burns
because the charge is rich enough to burn close to the droplets from the
injector. Orbital is achieving their burn with direct injection down to
80:1 AVERAGE af ratio or whatever due to stratification of the charge. With
a stratified charge, therre is no mixture to detonate in the "end" gas
(further reaches of the chamber.

Regards, Greg



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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Renault F1 V10
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>According to F1 regulations, the gasoline used in F1 cars is pump quality
>petrol and to be legal for use, has to be sold at the pump. Since no after-pump
>additives are allowed, this is usually 108 octane or better UNLEADED gasoline.
>
And if you believe that, I have this bridge in Brooklyn that is for
sale---- The ways that these guys invent to cheat could even make the old
Curtis  (Pops) Turner/ Smokey Yunick team look like they just fell of the
turnip truck.
Once watched a pal pour twe GI cans of left over F1 go juice into his Olds
Cutlass (350) Vista Cruiser at Watkins Glen after  the race, cuz he was too
low on gas to make it back home to Ithaca. Results: car made about 25% more
power on way home; car's mileage dropped by about 60%; by two days later,
car's engine (previously good) sounded loose as a goose and worn out.
Hmmmm.
Bill raced a Mini-Cooper at the time, and had also liberated two more
fivers of the same stuff for use therein. After listening to the way the
Olds sounded after its experience. we conducted a small experiment: threw a
splash of the stuff into a glass beaker of brand new Valvoline racing oil.
Within about three minutes, the sample of new motor oil had separated into
five or six layers!! Needless to say, the rest of the fuel never went into
the Mini! Never seen anything like that occur if tried with pump gas!!---Go
figure! By the way,, the F1 rules read about the same at that time as they
do now as to fuel composition.

My conclusion: F1 fuel guys are mad chemists, even in comparison to top
fuel drag racers, but at least the drag guys admit to their addictions and
weaknesses.
>
Regards, Greg
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Adrian Teo                               e-mail: adrian.teo@asu.edu
>System Administator
>Instruction Support, Arizona State University
>Ph: 602.965.9411                         http://hybrid.asu.edu
>Fx: 602.965.2724     Pg:602.204.1831     e-page: adrian@falcon.asu.edu
>------------------------------------------------------------------------



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 14:09:47 1998
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Subject: Re: air-assisted injectors, sort of
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>Actually, for all intents and purposes the mixtures at the extreme A/F
>ratios aren't mixtures at all.  The direct injection allows stratified
>charging, actually close to stoich at the spark plug - pure air in the rest
>of the cylinder.  The low load conditions where DI is most advantageous
>actually inject after BDC on compression stroke (4- and 2-stroke) to avoid
>mixing.  The heat rejection with highly lean mixtures at low load increases
>efficiency to get fuel economy up.
>
>John Bucknell

Amen. Plus, the wider throttle opening relative to load serves to decrease
pumping work, and thus boost BSFC.

Regards, Greg
>
>
>



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 14:12:41 1998
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Retrofit TBI to MGB
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>Good point. I'm contemplating a similar situation - FI'ing a
>single-port VW bus app. The dual-ports breathe better, but the
>single-port heads don't crack ...
>
>Regards, Jack
>
>Stowe, Ted-SEA wrote:
>>
>> isn't an L-Jettronic a 4 cyl FI, (4 injectors) ?
>> with an mgb head and the Siamesed intake ports, wouldn't that be an issue ?

First reaction---OOOOPPS!
Second reaction--might could be able to put two injectors in each port and
make it work pretty durn well.

Regards,  Greg



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From: Michael Kasimirsky <mtk@tmc.astm.cmri.cmu.edu>
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Subject: RE: Renault F1 V10
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 14:17:46 -0400 
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> >According to F1 regulations, the gasoline used in F1 cars is 
> pump quality
> >petrol and to be legal for use, has to be sold at the pump. 
> Since no after-pump
> >additives are allowed, this is usually 108 octane or better 
> UNLEADED gasoline.

While this may be the regs, I don't think it's reality.  For example, a
top-line AMA or WSB-spec Superbike (750cc, 4-cylinder) uses about
40 degrees of ignition advance to get power out of the engine at 14,000
rpm
or so.  Now optimum power comes with 10 degrees or so of ignition 
timing, but you can't do this with "normal" gasoline.

Now the F1 guys have developed fuel, called "gasoline," that allows them
to run
10-12 degrees of advance at 17,000 rpm and make piles of power.  My
understanding
is that it's a concoction of Benzene, Tolulene, etc. and other nasty
stuff that isn't usually
a large part of pump gas.

It may be lead-free, but it's not pump gas.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 14:57:34 1998
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One low #/hr and 1 high #/hr injector per port would be interesting -
Custom ECU required, of course - Injection timing in a siamesed port
is something to think about...

Regards, Jack


Greg Hermann wrote:
> First reaction---OOOOPPS!
> Second reaction--might could be able to put two injectors in each port and
> make it work pretty durn well.

Jack Wrote: 
> >Good point. I'm contemplating a similar situation - FI'ing a
> >single-port VW bus app. The dual-ports breathe better, but the
> >single-port heads don't crack ...
> >
> >Regards, Jack

Stowe, Ted-SEA wrote:
> >>
> >> isn't an L-Jettronic a 4 cyl FI, (4 injectors) ?
> >> with an mgb head and the Siamesed intake ports, wouldn't that be an issue ?
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 15:15:57 1998
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Subject: Re: air-assisted injectors, sort of
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>Presumably this means that these injectors have a minimum usable
>"on" time a good bit lower than the usual 1-2 msec or so? (Or does
>the engine have a fairly low ratio of power at WOT to power at idle?)

More like the injector has a rather longer time to fill the pre-chamber
with a metered amount of fuel, then the compressed air takes the
(pre-metered amount of) fuel past the air valve quite quickly. The actual
amount of air used for this is not that critical, so higher flow rates and
shorter duty cycles are ok for the air valves.
>
>There are still several relationships and effects that I'm curious
>about:
>
>Does a decreased droplet size lower the "effective" octane of a fuel
No.
>(by increasing flame speed,

no effect

Or is it all vapor by TDC anyway, regardless of droplet
>size?

With progressively larger droplets, not all are necessarily vaporized or
burned.  Leading to HC emissions and less fuel economy. It is a proven fact
that larger fuel droplets can survive the combustion process intact.
>
>To what extent is the fuel/air really homogeneous by TDC? On one hand
>you have "stratified charge" engines, and OTOH your residual volume
>is fairly small in an average-CR engine.

Combustion chamber design and charge stratification is a whole nother
(closely related) topic.
>
>Ignoring the issue of detonation, how ignitable are lean mixtures? Or
>rather, how lean can you make the mixture and still be able to ignite
>it?

17 or 18 to 1 is the limit of flammability for a homogeneous mixture, no
matter how hot the spark.


I just wonder if any of those efficiencies can be brought to a TPI setup.

I wasn't thinking of bringing the lean mixture efficiencies to a TPI
setup--you need the stratified charge effect for that. All I would hope for
is the improved fuel economy and power due to better fuel atomization and
reduction of compression work by evaporating a higher percentage of the
fuel during the compression stroke. I think that both gains would be
significant--and, although this is unexplored territory, no-one has come
forward with any wagers against it yet.
>

>My experience there left me with a few good rules of thumb; I'm sure
>some of them apply here but doubt that they all do:
>
As to your thoughts on detonation:

My SUBJECTIVE feelings on it are that there is a critical P-T-mixture ratio
for any given fuel above which detonation will occur, but that there is
also a (material and conditions specific) time delay involved. Once you get
the mixture above the critical point, the countdown starts, then after a
certain time , it detonates. This feel is based on a lot of engine tuning.
Also a bit of (field) experience working with explosives (is the FBI still
in the wings wondering about our 747's??).

My experience with engines seems to indicate that if you can get the burn
over with quickly (as a result of short flame travel, mixture motion, and
mixture turbulence, as opposed to fast flame travel) the chances of getting
detonation are VASTLY reduced,  the need for ignition advance is also
reduced, and BSFC is improved.

I have actually worked with an 11.5 : 1  C.R. engine whose chambers were
conducive to the above mentioned things happening, and I observed the
following: It would run on 101 octane (unleaded) with 45 degrees of total
advance with no detonation whatsoever, but it made its best power with only
32 degrees of total advance. Otherwise the same, but with different chamber
shapes, the same engine did not make as much power, and could knock its
brains out on 104 octane. Power was still increasing with increasing
advance with more than 40 degrees, but detonation prevented going any
further whilst looking for more power.

Does your experience working with explosives back up any of what I have
(kind of lamely) tried to say here?

Regards, Greg



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Compressed natural gas has an octane rating around 120 +

turbocharging an engine using natural gas makes sense
because natural gas costs about 35-40 cents per "gallon"
in your home and about 65 cents per "gallon" at a gas station
(if you don't have a 3600 PSI pump at your house).

many cities in the US offer a rebate to convert your vehicle
to natural gas, like Austin, texas.  here, i can convert for
free.

(* a "gallon" of compressed natural gas is the amount of CNG with
the equivalent energy of a gallon of gasoline)


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Message-ID: <35EC497F.6F4D@ibm.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 15:22:39 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <clare.snyder.on.ca@ibm.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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Stowe, Ted-SEA wrote:
> 
> isn't an L-Jettronic a 4 cyl FI, (4 injectors) ?
> with an mgb head and the Siamesed intake ports, wouldn't that be an issue ?
> 
> is there an electronic TBI from bosch ? I know the D-Jetronic was FI also.

Yes, it has 4 injectors. With the D Jet I would drill the head for the
injectors - just stay away from water jackets and oil galleries. As it
is CFI you could also just put 2 injectors into each manifold runner.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B

                 Looks like we've finally fixed it!!!
                I am still clare.snyder.on.ca@ibm.net
                 Snyder.on.ca is BACK ON THE NET!!!
        With any luck, I will be Clare@snyder.on.ca real soon!!!

                           Clare Snyder
                         Waterloo, Ontario

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 15:20:49 1998
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>I like it :)

Ah Ha!! another power crazed , environmentally careless profligate!!
Someone call the thought police!!

I'll bet you actually like sex, and were a juvenile delinquent , to boot!!

Regards, Greg
>
>Regards, Jack
>
>Bruce Plecan wrote:
>
>> >Good point. I'm contemplating a similar situation - FI'ing a
>> >single-port VW bus app. The dual-ports breathe better, but the
>> >single-port heads don't crack ...
>>
>> That's why they invented turbos



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 15:28:28 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: RE: Renault F1 V10
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>> >According to F1 regulations, the gasoline used in F1 cars is
>> pump quality
>> >petrol and to be legal for use, has to be sold at the pump.
>> Since no after-pump
>> >additives are allowed, this is usually 108 octane or better
>> UNLEADED gasoline.
>
>While this may be the regs, I don't think it's reality.  For example, a
>top-line AMA or WSB-spec Superbike (750cc, 4-cylinder) uses about
>40 degrees of ignition advance to get power out of the engine at 14,000
>rpm
>or so.  Now optimum power comes with 10 degrees or so of ignition
>timing, but you can't do this with "normal" gasoline.
>
>Now the F1 guys have developed fuel, called "gasoline," that allows them
>to run
>10-12 degrees of advance at 17,000 rpm and make piles of power.  My
>understanding
>is that it's a concoction of Benzene, Tolulene, etc.

Don't forget the Xylene--the nastiest and most carcinogenic of the bunch,
unless, of course some or all of the above are nitrated to one degree and
percentage or another!!! Then there are other neat things like hydrazine.
Try reading a book about the things Werner Von Braun put into V-2's and
some of his later rockets. Also try reading some stuff about torpedo motor
fuels. Neat, but don't sniff it.

Regards, Greg

and other nasty
>stuff that isn't usually
>a large part of pump gas.
>
>It may be lead-free, but it's not pump gas.



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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net>
Subject: RE: Renault F1 V10


<snip>
 Also try reading some stuff about torpedo motor
>fuels. Neat, but don't sniff it.

Where would one look for material on such issues?.  Other than
finding a retired U-Boat captain/weaponeer?.
>
>Regards, Greg
>



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 16:51:23 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Anybody know where some one can buy this brand of chips?.
Looking for prices on some SRAM.  
TIA
Bruce      Staffers all inna flurry at the mention of torpedos after
                skiing incident.   Doc ain't been right since the trooper
                explained how dangerous skiing behind a boat being
                towed onna dirt road could be..  


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 16:56:31 1998
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Der U-Bootwaffen Archiv ist:  http//u-boat.net

Regards, Jack

Bruce Plecan wrote:

> Where would one look for material on such issues?.  Other than
> finding a retired U-Boat captain/weaponeer?.


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 17:10:00 1998
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Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 14:02:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mike Macpherson <mike760@yahoo.com>
Subject: Motronic 0261 200 XXX EPROM 
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Does nayone have a copy of an eprom from any BMW with lambdasond, and
bosch number:
 0 261 200 XXX if anyone does, could they please send it as an atached
file to  

    <Volvo764ti@aol.com>

cheers
mike
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 17:12:37 1998
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DS will do small quantity direct sales w/ credit card.

http://www.dalsemi.com/Sales/credit_card.html

Mouser has decent prices on NEC SRAM. 800 346 6873
Whacha upto?

Regards, Jack

Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> Anybody know where some one can buy this brand of chips?.
> Looking for prices on some SRAM.


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 18:05:57 1998
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This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

------ =_NextPart_001_01BDD5F4.9C16BA30
Content-Type: text/plain


>Anybody know where some one can buy this brand of chips?.
>Looking for prices on some SRAM.  

Bruce,
Check their website at http://www.dalsemi.com .  If you let me know
where you are I can give you the phone # of their nearest dealer.  My
1996 phone # of their support is (214) 450-0448.

alex samson

------ =_NextPart_001_01BDD5F4.9C16BA30
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<BR>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">&gt;</FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" =
SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">Anybody know where some one can buy this brand =
of chips?.</FONT>
<BR><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">&gt;Looking for =
prices on some SRAM.&nbsp; </FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">Bruce,</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">Check their website at<U> =
</U></FONT><U><FONT COLOR=3D"#0000FF" SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial"><A =
HREF=3D"http://www.dalsemi.com" =
TARGET=3D"_blank">http://www.dalsemi.com</A></FONT></U><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial"> .&nbsp; If you let me know where you are I can give you =
the phone # of their nearest dealer.&nbsp; My 1996 phone # of their =
support is (214) 450-0448.</FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">alex samson</FONT>
</P>

</BODY>
</HTML>
------ =_NextPart_001_01BDD5F4.9C16BA30--

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 18:31:34 1998
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Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 00:32:19 +0200
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Motronic 0261 200 XXX EPROM 
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At 14.02 01/09/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Does nayone have a copy of an eprom from any BMW with lambdasond, and
>bosch number:
> 0 261 200 XXX if anyone does, could they please send it as an atached
>file to  
>
>    <Volvo764ti@aol.com>
>
>cheers
>mike
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>

Hi Mike, I have lot of eprom which the same number, please can You specify
which type of car do You need ?

Best Regards.

Fabrizio Palumbo
EFI Technologies

http://www.axa.it/ame
E-Mail : ame@axa.it

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From: "Ross Myers" <ponty@axis.jeack.com.au>
To: "EFI List" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Impedance of TBI's.
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998 22:52:16 +1000
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Hi All,

Damn I wish I'd followed some of the discussions on this group more
closely....
Here's a question I'm sure has been answered recently, I'm after the
Impedance of the Injectors used on the Cross Fire TBI setup.

Do you think the 1227165 / 808 would drive these lower impedance injectors?
Also how would it handle parallel IAC motors like the C.F setup has?.

Regards

Ross Myers


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 20:57:05 1998
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-----Original Message-----
From: Ross Myers <ponty@axis.jeack.com.au>
To: EFI List <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 8:38 PM
Subject: Impedance of TBI's.


>Hi All,
>
>Damn I wish I'd followed some of the discussions on this group more
>closely....
>Here's a question I'm sure has been answered recently, I'm after the
>Impedance of the Injectors used on the Cross Fire TBI setup.

About 2 ohms each.
>
>Do you think the 1227165 / 808 would drive these lower impedance injectors?

Yes, but there are better ecms, the 1227747 is the "right choice".
The 747 fires one injector every ignition pulse.  The 808 fires
all injectors every 4th pulse.

>Also how would it handle parallel IAC motors like the C.F setup has?.

Been running them just fine off the 1227747 in my car for years.
747 is a single IAC application.

Cheers
Bruce
>
>Regards
>Ross Myers
>



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 21:48:03 1998
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>>Greg Hermann wrote:
>>
>>> Thermo 301 class will convene in three weeks. Tuition will be high.
>>> Prerequisites are knowing that F=ma and that you can't push a rope.

You can push a rope if you know the proper technique.

Step 1: Get the rope wet

Step 2: Subject the rope to temperatures below 273.15 K

step 3: Push to your heart's delight!


Ray

_____________________________________________________________________
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Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
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To: diy_efi <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
From: Steve Lamb <lambs@HOTBLK.dsto.defence.gov.au>
Subject: Non-GM knock sensor Q
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As some of you are aware, myself and a friend are currently attempting to
adapt an 808 ECM to run a Nissan FJ20 (DOHC 4, NA version) using the
Kalmaker gear.   Now, the FJ20 has a knock sensor installed in the block
and the Kal software gives access to all the knock variables, but the
question is: will the output from the Nissan sensor be suitable for direct
input to the Delco ECM ??  I have all the wiring diagrams, so know which
pin-outs to use.  Any opinion/input greatly appreciated.

TIA

Steve Lamb
Department of Defence, DSTO
Aeronautical and Maritime Research Laboratory
506 Lorimer Street
Fishermans Bend  VIC 3207 Australia

Tel: +61 3 9626 7525
Fax: +61 3 9626 7089

IZCC #180



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 22:32:52 1998
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Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 22:42:31 -0400
From: Jason Weir <jweir@worldnet.att.net>
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Steve Lamb wrote:

> As some of you are aware, myself and a friend are currently attempting
> to
> adapt an 808 ECM to run a Nissan FJ20 (DOHC 4, NA version) using the
> Kalmaker gear.   Now, the FJ20 has a knock sensor installed in the
> block
> and the Kal software gives access to all the knock variables, but the
> question is: will the output from the Nissan sensor be suitable for
> direct
> input to the Delco ECM ??  I have all the wiring diagrams, so know
> which
> pin-outs to use.  Any opinion/input greatly appreciated.

I can't answer your question but, I wondered the same thing when I did
my swap, I wanted to use the stock sensor but I didn't know if it would
work so I just swapped to the GM sensor it works great, it not perfect
because if I add lots of timing I can hear a few knocks before the ECM
retards timing but under normal conditions it senses knock way before
you hear it...I guess all that talk about knock sensors, and the ESC
module filtering out engine specific frequencies is questionable because
you will never convince me that the acoustic and knock properties of a
4.3 V6 GM motor and a straight 6 AMC motor are the same...Or maybe I
just go lucky, I don't really care cause it works.... JTW
--
Jason Weir
88 Wrangler - 258 Chevy TBI
Fayetteville, North Carolina
http://home.att.net/~jweir/tbi/inject.htm  --- TBI Installation Page
http://home.att.net/~jweir/resume.htm      --- My Resume
mailto:jweir@worldnet.att.net



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 22:35:35 1998
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You need a screen filter to keep the big crap out of the pump. Mine plugged
with silicone seal from the sender unit install.

xxalexx@ix.netcom.com wrote:

> > Date:          Thu, 27 Aug 1998 21:14:58 -0700 (PDT)
> > From:          James Weiler <james@brc.ubc.ca>
> > To:            diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> > Subject:       Re: pre-fuel filter advice needed
> > Reply-to:      diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>
> > Uhmmm I guess I don't understand how this would help.  It sounds like a
> > small container.  With the flow of fuel it should just swirl
> > up the crap and bring it into the pump.  I think you're going to have to
> > explain what a seperator is in more detail.
> > thanks
> > jw
> It would get rid of water, airplanes use this, drain the bottom of
> bowl before take off.  Cars used to have glass bowl filters, take out
> the filter and you have nice trap.
> alex




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Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 22:06:19 -0500
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Just a couple of observations. I have seen 400 SBCs with alcohol Holleys and more
cam than I have idle like a John Deere garden tractor without stand-off, that's
why I picked a 109 DEG center cam. It has a very broad torque curve, cruses at 15"
vacuum and gets 25+ MPG. It just won't idle....

2. BSFC is a measure of combustion efficiency and is affected by intake/exhaust
tuning and anything that affects the combustion process, including particle
(droplet) size (atomization?), turbochargers, EFI, Carb boosters(Webber), C/R, and
temperature (density?). Smokey U. had a twin turbo, carburated 2.5L Fiero with
heated fuel that ran 400 deg. intake temps to increase fuel vaporization. The
Turbo was required to force the hot mixture into the combustion chamber. No Knock,
great power, & teriffic BSFC numbers. I don't remember all the details, but it ate
exhaust valves every 10K miles. Detroit was looking at his prototype.

3. The heat loss problem can be improved with ceramic coatings. More on those
later.
I swear by them. Everything Tech Line says is true.

Greg Hermann wrote:

> >10-4 but it all depends upon RPM. Each duration (overlap) value has a
> >different scavenge RPM and when you are under it (or turbocharged) all kjinds
> >of unpleasant things happen. I have seen fuel haze "standing" on top of a
> >carburator from this..  Tom.
> >
> Tom-- I suspect you of a plot to keep me up late. I've tuned many Webers
> from scratch. seen fuel standoff too. It's why Weber will sell you extended
> boosters for IDA's and DCOE's. But the headers are still wrapped around the
> cam grinder's neck. Fuel standoff is primarily due to standing (sound)
> waves in the intake ports, which happen when the i valves are closed, not
> to self egr. When it happens, you can put the extended boosters in, and, by
> keeping the fuel that's way out there from falling onto the floor, you
> bring the BSFC right back into line. Too bad Passini's books are out of
> print, and somebody thought they need mine more than I did!
>
> I will admit that if you are trying to run a cam that has no business
> turning slower than 4 K on the street, you can get some burble,
> particularly on a single plane manifolded V-8, but I thought that modern
> valve spring materials and cam ramp rates had pretty much cured that crap.
> The other side of that is that I can and have set up 1649 cc , 4 cyl.
> (naturally aspirated) Alfas (80x82, 2mm over 1600) with cams that wouldn't
> make any power below about 5000, with 11.5 compression and two 45 DCOE's
> with 36mm chokes so they would make about 185-190 HP, and yet idle smoothly
> at 700 RPM, and pull smoothly (if only about as hard as a clapped out 1300)
> if you floored them at 1500 rpm in 5th gear. (P.S. Still only a single plug
> head, but made best power with only 33 degrees total advance--go ahead,
> ask!) Yeah, there was some fuel standoff, but I don't think much self egr.
>
> Regards, Greg




From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 23:19:53 1998
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Jayson,

I am a professional programmer and am interested in writing my own EGI
program. Look into reverse engineering the xxx chips.  Good Luck  Tom S.

Jason Weir wrote:

> I just made what I think is a big discovery, but you know what they say
> about one man's treasure or something like that,
>
> Ok, I was checking out the following bins
>
> AJUK
> ABUL
> ACSW
> AKAL
> ASDU
> A 4.3 V6 chip that I got from Howell EFI
> A 4.3 V6 chip that I got from Bruce
>
> As we all know on the prom data is from 0x000 through 0x616 and code is
> from 0x617 through 0xfff,   I checked the above files with Hex Workshop,
> with it you are able to compare files byte, by byte so I started
> checking the code (from 0x617 on) from the above files, I found them all
> to be exactly the same.  So that means that the code is not different
> from a V6 to a V8 so Bruce was correct that the cylinder select is in
> the data somewhere... Maybe if we find it, a 7747 could be installed on
> a 4 cylinder someday???
>
> Did everybody already know this an I am just finding out? Boy would that
> make me feel dumb.. ;)  later, Jason
>
> oh yeah you can find Hex Workshop at  http://www.bpsoft.com
> --
> Jason Weir
> 88 Wrangler - 258 Chevy TBI
> Fayetteville, North Carolina
> http://home.att.net/~jweir/tbi/inject.htm  --- TBI Installation Page
> http://home.att.net/~jweir/resume.htm      --- My Resume
> mailto:jweir@worldnet.att.net




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-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Lamb <lambs@HOTBLK.dsto.defence.gov.au>
To: diy_efi <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, September 01, 1998 10:22 PM
Subject: Non-GM knock sensor Q


>As some of you are aware, myself and a friend are currently attempting to
>adapt an 808 ECM to run a Nissan FJ20 (DOHC 4, NA version) using the
>Kalmaker gear.   Now, the FJ20 has a knock sensor installed in the block
>and the Kal software gives access to all the knock variables, but the
>question is: will the output from the Nissan sensor be suitable for direct
>input to the Delco ECM ??  I have all the wiring diagrams, so know which
>pin-outs to use.  Any opinion/input greatly appreciated.

What I did (do), is get a catalog such as Standard Ignition Parts
Catalog.  In there they give module numbers, and interchange
numbers.  On the ecm I used it turns out the were like 3 knock
sensors, and 4 or 5 ESC modules.  Being the lazy, cheap person
that I am,  I took the catalog to a wreckers, and poked around
till I gathered the modules.  $5 a piece. then tried each one to find
the limits of it's detection, and then worked the timing curves
around till no knock triggered, heard, or seen in plug cuts.  
Turns out my v-8 SBC uses a 350 SBC sensor, and a Buick
v-6 ESC Module.  Works fine thankyou very much.
  Same ascoutic footprint?, I don't know.  Do I care?, no.  Bottom line
is that it works as it should.
Cheers
Bruce

>
>TIA
>
>Steve Lamb
>Department of Defence, DSTO
>Aeronautical and Maritime Research Laboratory
>506 Lorimer Street
>Fishermans Bend  VIC 3207 Australia
>
>Tel: +61 3 9626 7525
>Fax: +61 3 9626 7089
>
>IZCC #180
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 23:38:50 1998
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Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 22:40:06 -0500
From: Tom Sharpe <twsharpe@mtco.com>
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Subject: Re: GM Cross Fire Injection For Sale
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I have one of these also and they work good. You might want to consider
upgrading the injectors to 2" bore (Holley, I think) for 350-383-400 CI. or
use it as is on a 305-327-350. Just a thought. More is better.  Tom

Kevin Crain wrote:

> Swapping a TPI system into my 1982 Chevy Camaro Z-28, the factory Cross
> Fire Injection system is up for sale.  This is a dual-TBI system, intake
> designed such that each TBI feeds the opposite cylinder bank on a V-8.
> Long runners, lotsa low-end grunt.
>
> This is a complete system, including the factory ECM (stock and Hypertech
> chips), Electronic Spark Control module, distributor, engine
> compartment wiring harness, in-tank fuel pump, TBIs, intake manifold for
> small-block Chevy, air filter housing, and all sensors and relays.  It
> works great, is currently pushing my Z to/from work daily.  Will pull the
> top plate and TBIs so as to leave them balanced, ready to bolt up and run.
>
> Throwing in two brand-new GM rebuild kits for the TBIs, bought last year
> when I was prepping to do a Bruce Plecan hop-up on it, cost me $35 each.
> System will be available for shipment Sep 18th.  Asking $200 US or best
> offer.
>
> -Kevin Crain
> -Knoxville, TN




From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 23:42:18 1998
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Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 22:43:34 -0500
From: Tom Sharpe <twsharpe@mtco.com>
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Jake Sternberg wrote:

> it would suck to get aho there are a couple wide-range
> oxygen sensors and their

Go Jake     ... Tom


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  1 23:55:34 1998
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Date: Tue, 01 Sep 1998 22:56:48 -0500
From: Tom Sharpe <twsharpe@mtco.com>
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Subject: Re: boost presser  and power gain
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More later Sergey........  Tom Sharpe

Tom's Turbo Tips:

These are the results of my experience with a T04B V2 trim on a 350 SBC
with adapters from Accel. It was quite a while ago so and my memory is
not as good as it used to be. The math is for us ten finger users, if you
need a calculator, you need better formulas.... As always, your results
may vary..........

My 350 example engine is capable of 350 HP @ 5250 rpm, if yours is not
capable of 1 hp/Cu.In. then adjust accordingly.
Horsepower = Torque @ 5250 RPM.  Start thinking torque.
........Compressor maps.........
Calculate air flow @ 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000, 6000 RPM. Assume a VE of ??
(I used 95%)
350*5000/12/12/12/2*.95=CFM=481   @4500@13lbs boost = 850CFM
Calculate the same @ 1 1/3, 1 2/3, 2, 2 1/3 PR. (5, 10, 15, 20 lbs. boost
(gauge)).
(Multiply by 1.3333, 1.6667 etc.) As pressure goes up, VE goes down, but
only a few %.
You should now have 25 points.
An engine capable of 1 Hp/CuIn will deliver approximately 1.333 Hp/CuIn @
1.333 PR, 1.666 Hp/CuIn @ 1.667 PR, etc.
An engine capable of X torque will produce 1.333 X torque @ 5 lbs. boost
................ .is the light on yet??
How much Torque do you want to produce???? At what RPM ????? Will the
short block stand it?? Will the heads stand the airflow??

Plot and connect the rpm points @ 1.3 PR on the compressor map.
You should have a line from the bottom center to the middle right (or
there abouts)
Repeat for the 1.67, 2, and 2.3 PR lines. You should be adding lines up
and down, left of the first.
The idea is for the line to go through the center of the compressor
efficiency island. Stall is generally to the left and above the island
(compressor too small).
You should now know if you have chosen the correct compressor. Indy car
compressors are most efficient at high boost 30-45 lbs. gauge or 3-4 PR.
Others are lower.
Turbochargers are just air pumps... just like an piston pump (engine) and
the compressor map describes it's capacity which can be expressed in
Lbs./min. CFM, or horsepower. A T04B is capable of 450-500 HP, on a 302
Ford, that’s 13 lbs. Boost @ 5250 rpm, more at lower rpm (Think Torque).
On a 122 CI Pinto (2L), it is 30 lbs. boost @ 8000 RPM. On a 502 BBC,
it's a soda straw in the intake and a cork in the exhaust.
The turbine housing ratio can be thought of as Blower pulleys. Smaller
numbers cause the compressor to spin faster and produce more boost and
torque at lower RPM (until it runs out of capacity). Larger numbers lower
boost and raise RPM potential (and Horsepower) (again until it runs out
of capacity).
Turbochargers have a "range", usually from X RPM to 2X RPM..... any more
requires a wastegate.

The vehicle was a 2800 LB Jeep CJ5 w/ 350 SBC and 350 Turbohydro w/ a
HoleShot Converter. The short block was stock w/ 8.5 CR. & cast pistons
and crankshaft. I used an Accel suck through setup with a 650 Holley and
no intercooler with 3.5" exhaust to twin 2.5" turbo mufflers. The Turbo
was an Air Research T04B V2 trim with .96 Turbine housing. I was slightly
restricted on both the intake and exhaust sides to control Boost. No
other boost control was used. From a standing start, I could not get
boost in low gear (turbo 350) because of the relatively stock 12"
converter and poor brakes to load the motor. Second gear was like low all
over again. With the exhaust open, the 15 lb. boost gauge would slap the
stop (chipped the red paint on the needle) with the shift, then drift
back to 13 lbs.

Once rolling, it was like the boost gauge was connected to the gas pedal,
instant response. It had a tremendous amount of torque. You never had to
downshift. Roll into the throttle at 50 MPH in high and 80 was a blink
away. Just a whoosh like a small jet aircraft taking off. No fuss, just
pushes you back in the seat. At 4000 RPM, it started to tail off, 4500
was time to shift, and 5000 RPM was ALL DONE, like a potato in the
exhaust, boy did it wheeze.

I went through two crankshafts before I learned to control DETONATION.
Keep spark @ 30-32 deg over 3000 RPM, retard spark from 2000-3000 a lot.
Added water injection, (a pressurized tank and windshield washer tubing
and squirter into the turbine inlet--- .080 hole) which helped a lot.
Most engines will not detonate over 3000 rpm, but less advance is needed
because of the increased fuel density. The short block was a stock 8.5 CR
w/ cast pistons and crankshaft.




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 00:11:37 1998
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Subject: Re: Renault F1 V10
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In a message dated 98-09-01 08:47:32 EDT, you write:

<< Subj:	 RE: Renault F1 V10
 Date:	98-09-01 08:47:32 EDT
 From:	mtk@tmc.astm.cmri.cmu.edu (Michael Kasimirsky)
 Sender:	owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 Reply-to:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 
 > All this talk about where injectors should go reminded me of 
 > a video I have. It's about the Renault F1 V10 engine.
 > It's about the engine development Renault conducted for the 
 > Williams team back in '96.
 
 First off, I would LOVE to see that video...  Care to get in the video
 rental business?  :-)  
 Where did you get this video?  I'd really like to get my hands on a copy
 of this.
 
 Can you see the throttle assemblies?  I'd like to see the barrel
 throttles that
 are used on F1 engines.
  
 > Anyway, there is a section which has the engine running on a 
 > dyno, and a close up of it showed what looked like the 
 > injectors sitting on top of the trumpets, spraying fluid into 
 > the trumpets. Amazing stuff, but they never explained why 
 > these injectors were positioned above the trumpets instead of 
 > the usual place. 
 
 From what I understand, the injectors are mounted in that location to
 try and 
 improve the quality of the mixture.  An F1 engine turns 17,000 rpm and
 consequently
 has very little time for injection of fuel and atomization of same.  So
 they mount the 
 injectors above the intake velocity stack to give the fuel some extra
 time and distance to
 get mixed with the incoming air.
 
 Michael Kasimirsky            1990 Yamaha FZR400 Superbike Racer
 Loki Motorsports              1993 Kawasaki ZX1100D1 Streetbike Rider
 FASTTRAX & WERA Novice #22  Sponsored by Loki Motorsports, Bridgestone, 
 mtk@tmc.astm.cmri.cmu.edu        Street & Competition, and AGV.
  >>


Yes I would love to see this video also....whats the rental fee??????
-Carl Summers

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 00:12:20 1998
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Sorry for the late reply. Here's another $.02. If I can get a faster flame
front, I can reduce timing and torque loss from compressing burning gasoline
BTDC. I might even be able to reduce detonation.......If I could make the
charge burn really fast (not detonate), I could time the engine ATDC.....
You guys seem way ahead of me, so keep us all posted... Tom.

Chris Conlon wrote:

> Greg wrote:
>
> > The neatest thing about it is that I see no reason not to stab the
> > Orbital air assisted injectors (the actual fuel injectors, which,
> > in turn, plug into them,  are standard stuff) into the existing
> > bungs on an existing TPI engine and go from there.
> > ...
> > Orbital claims maximum droplet size of 8 microns coming out of
> > the injector. Obviously, if these units can direct inject, they
> > are quick enough to match injection with inhale in a TPI system
> > without resorting to staged injectors.
>
> Presumably this means that these injectors have a minimum usable
> "on" time a good bit lower than the usual 1-2 msec or so? (Or does
> the engine have a fairly low ratio of power at WOT to power at idle?)
>
> There are still several relationships and effects that I'm curious
> about:
>
> Does a decreased droplet size lower the "effective" octane of a fuel
> (by increasing flame speed, leading to an increased chance of
> detonation)? Or is it all vapor by TDC anyway, regardless of droplet
> size?
>
> To what extent is the fuel/air really homogeneous by TDC? On one hand
> you have "stratified charge" engines, and OTOH your residual volume
> is fairly small in an average-CR engine.
>
> Ignoring the issue of detonation, how ignitable are lean mixtures? Or
> rather, how lean can you make the mixture and still be able to ignite
> it? What if you allow for a seriously powerful ignition, and/or bump
> the CR up a lot? It seems a bit weird to me that lean mixtures are
> more prone to detonation (which indicates to me a mixture near
> optimum, or near one of perhaps 2 optimums) and also considered to
> be hard to ignite - or is that only at a *much* leaner A/F ratio?
>
> (I realize this is heading towards a diesel or GDI engine, I just
> wonder if any of those efficiencies can be brought to a TPI setup.)
>
> Also I'd really love to find some reference that maps flame speed
> and the detonation line, flame temperature, charge density and A/F
> ratio for gasoline over a wide range. (Not just near stoich.)  In
> the past I was involved in making explosives, and all this kind of
> data was easy to find, but this was mostly for solid and some liquid
> explosives. I did get to make some air-fuel explosives, but not many,
> and never really had nice complete data as for more conventional
> systems.
>
> My experience there left me with a few good rules of thumb; I'm sure
> some of them apply here but doubt that they all do:
>
> Fine grain size (in a mixture) increases flame speed. Grain shape
> (in a composite) will have a profound effect on flame speed, and
> often on an explosive's tendency to detonate. (We probably only
> get one grain shape, spherical, which is regressive-burning, i.e.
> the burn rate slows as it goes.)
>
> Almost anything that burns really well can be made to detonate if
> you have enough of it, under enough pressure, hot enough, and with
> a strong enough initiation. Gas in an engine is obviously not too
> very far from this limit under normal conditions.
>
> There's a grey area (of pressure, density, temperature, flame speed)
> within which an explosive might burn or it might detonate. Some
> explosives easily go from burning to detonation, some do not. Pressure
> helps make this transition. (Gas engines, again, are often in this
> grey area.) Sometimes this grey area may be a very wide area indeed.
> A very strong initiation (shock wave) can decisively ensure that the
> explosive will detonate, not burn.
>
> In a mixture, mixtures close to stoich are usually *in the neighborhood
> of* the most-easily-detonated mixture.
>
> Ok if you've suffered my post this far I'll give up my silly/brilliant
> idea for people to poke holes in or run with:
>
> Take the engine of your choice
> Add the air-assisted injectors, or outright LPG injection. You're
>   gonna need all the octane you can get
> Raise the CR way way up
> Have your chosen head-work Guru redo the head, bearing in mind
>   the high CR.
> Run the hottest ignition you can find or build (probably build)
> Ceramic coat the piston/bore/head
> Run the engine way lean
> Run water/methanol injection to control detonation / EGT / NOx formation
>
> I like the idea of squeezing a lot out of a given displacement, and out
> of a given amount of fuel... what I don't know is if this is at all
> workable. Maybe I'll have to wait for GDI after all.
>
>    Comments appreciated,
>    Chris C.




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Subject: Re: Non-GM knock sensor Q
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<snip>
> that I am,  I took the catalog to a wreckers, and poked around
> till I gathered the modules.  $5 a piece. then tried each one to find
> the limits of it's detection, and then worked the timing curves
> around till no knock triggered, heard, or seen in plug cuts.  
> Turns out my v-8 SBC uses a 350 SBC sensor, and a Buick
> v-6 ESC Module.  Works fine thankyou very much.
>   Same ascoutic footprint?, I don't know.  Do I care?, no.  Bottom line
> is that it works as it should.
> Cheers
> Bruce
> 

I'm intrigued by the phrase "or seen in plug cuts"; what does a plug 
shown when there's been knocking?


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From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
To: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: air-assisted injectors, sort of
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 01:51:05 -0400
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Greg wrote:

> >Presumably this means that these injectors have a minimum usable
> >"on" time a good bit lower than the usual 1-2 msec or so? (Or does
> >the engine have a fairly low ratio of power at WOT to power at idle?)
> 
> More like the injector has a rather longer time to fill the pre-chamber
> with a metered amount of fuel, then the compressed air takes the
> (pre-metered amount of) fuel past the air valve quite quickly. The actual

But doesn't the issue of power ratio (or turndown ratio) still apply
here? How is it that these direct-injection devices can supply enough
fuel for WOT in 1 or 2 strokes out of 4 (max 50% duty cycle) and still
be able to open briefly enough to produce a good idle? Or am I
misunderstanding the injection-window for GDI engines?


> >Ignoring the issue of detonation, how ignitable are lean mixtures? Or
>
> 17 or 18 to 1 is the limit of flammability for a homogeneous mixture, no
> matter how hot the spark.

Does this depend on CR? I would expect a very hot, high pressure mixture
to sustain burning better than a cooler, lower pressure mixture at the
same A/F ratio. (I could see it being a lot harder to ignite, though.)


> > I just wonder if any of those efficiencies can be brought to a TPI setup.
> 
> I wasn't thinking of bringing the lean mixture efficiencies to a TPI
> setup--you need the stratified charge effect for that. All I would hope for
> is the improved fuel economy and power due to better fuel atomization and
> reduction of compression work by evaporating a higher percentage of the
> fuel during the compression stroke. I think that both gains would be
> significant--and, although this is unexplored territory, no-one has come
> forward with any wagers against it yet.

I do agree with you that there are gains to be made in these areas. I
have no real idea how to *calculate* what these gains might be though.

My own line of questioning is pointing down a different road; I think
there may be a lean operating point (with water injection) which could
give even better BSFC and still low emissions.


> As to your thoughts on detonation:
>
> My SUBJECTIVE feelings on it are that there is a critical
> P-T-mixture ratio for any given fuel above which detonation will occur,
> but that there is also a (material and conditions specific) time delay
> involved. Once you get the mixture above the critical point, the
> countdown starts, then after a certain time , it detonates. This feel
> is based on a lot of engine tuning. Also a bit of (field) experience
> working with explosives

I'd say this is pretty close, but I'd amend it a little bit. The
pressure and temp will be going up (mostly) during combustion, and
IMO the shape and peak of this P-T graph is mostly what pushes the
engine into detonation. The shape of the combustion chamber can
have a big effect because of the burning rate curve - look at how
the flame front expands through the charge, and see *how much*
mixture is burning at any one time, and see how the *amount* of
flame front area changes over time. This is the gas engine equivalent
of "grain shape" that I didn't realize last night.

Anyway my experience is that pressure and temperature by themselves
can be enough to cause detonation, and that the temp/pressure rise as
combustion progresses is mostly responsible for detonation due to
high CR or advanced timing.

One example is smokeless powder (modern gunpowder) in a gun barrel.
It has to burn; detonation is as bad for a gun as an engine. But if
the projectile should get jammed in the barrel, the rapid pressure
rise can cause the powder to go from burning to detonation, with
often disastrous results. 


> My experience with engines seems to indicate that if you can get the burn
> over with quickly (as a result of short flame travel, mixture motion, and
> mixture turbulence, as opposed to fast flame travel) the chances of getting
> detonation are VASTLY reduced,  the need for ignition advance is also
> reduced, and BSFC is improved.
>
> I have actually worked with an 11.5 : 1  C.R. engine whose chambers were
> conducive to the above mentioned things happening, and I observed the
> following: It would run on 101 octane (unleaded) with 45 degrees of total
> advance with no detonation whatsoever, but it made its best power with only
> 32 degrees of total advance. Otherwise the same, but with different chamber
> shapes, the same engine did not make as much power, and could knock its
> brains out on 104 octane. Power was still increasing with increasing
> advance with more than 40 degrees, but detonation prevented going any
> further whilst looking for more power.

Eeeeh... part of me wants to say that if you look at the pressure
profiles in each chamber, you'll find that the bad chamber had a
higher pressure (static or dynamic) due to the shape, or increased
timing advance, and that pushed the mix over into detonation. But
OTOH you could be exactly right, it may be that if the flame front
(which probably does not burn all the fuel) moves very quickly through
the mix, the residual A/F mix (which is still burning, really) is much
less able to be detonated even at a higher pressure/temp.

It would be very interesting to see pressure vs. time profiles for
each of those 2 head designs, and figure out the burn rate profile
as well. It sounds to me like the good chamber burned so quickly
the peak pressure lined up well with the optimum time to "push" on
the piston, and the bad chamber burned more slowly so more advance
was needed to try and get peak pressre at the optimum time.

> Does your experience working with explosives back up any of what I
> have (kind of lamely) tried to say here?

Yes, or at least it gives us more parts of the puzzle. Unfortunately
explosives makers are more interested in reliable, repeatable, definite
detonation, rather than the grey area where a mixture might burn or
might trip over into detonation.

I can tell you, though, that *shock* is 1000x better at causing
detonation that heat or static pressure. Nitroglycerin, in the open,
will simply burn, as will a great many explosives. But add
confinement, sometimes even the slight confinement of a largish pile
of the substance, and it may trip over into detonation. (This
depends greatly on the explosive; I'm sure you've heard of soldiers
using TNT or C4 to heat their food.)  Anyway this suggests that
if the mixture is burning while it's still being compressed, this
might cause more detonation than igniting the mixture at a
higher (but stable or decreasing) pressure. Aka too much ignition
advance.

Huh... think I'll call my head-work Guru and see what he has to say
about burn rate vs. knock resistance. Very interesting.

   Chris C.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 03:18:13 1998
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From: "West, David" <djwest@subcorp.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: temperature sensors
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 16:43:42 +0930
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Hello all,

Does any know if there is there is a kit available that enables you to 
measure temperature.

I want to measure both inlet and outlet temperature through my 
intercooler but don't really want to pay AUS$150 for a dual 
thermo-couple readout unless there is no other alternative.

I just built a EGO meter and that works rather well. I am keen to see 
if there is a temp kit similar.

Kind regards,

David West



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 05:53:16 1998
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From: "Roland Johansson" <scirocco@mail.bip.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: SV: temperature sensors
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 11:43:51 +0200
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At least after the IC a cheap home termometer with a wire to
outdoor sensor could be working. They have a temperature range
of -30 -> +80 degrees Celsius and hopefully you wont be running
hotter air. Might not be 100% accurate but show close to. Try
one before the IC to, if it burns you haven't lost much money.



Roland Johansson
Scirocco 1,6l TIC -82


> 
> Hello all,
> 
> Does any know if there is there is a kit available that
enables you to 
> measure temperature.
> 
> I want to measure both inlet and outlet temperature through my

> intercooler but don't really want to pay AUS$150 for a dual 
> thermo-couple readout unless there is no other alternative.



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 06:14:02 1998
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Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 02:59:16 -0800
From: Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
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Here's some info about the Honda sensor gleaned from a troubleshooting
and repair manual:

One position of the 8 pin connector isn't used.  Two positions go to
[each end of] the heater element.  These are not connected to any of the
other wires.  Another two positions go to [both ends of] the calibration
resistor.  These also do not connect to any other wires.  The last three
connections go to the sensor/pump elements - one to a common junction,
one to the sensor, and one to the pump.

None of the five calibration and sensor connections are interconnected. 
Also, none of them are grounded or connected to a constant power
supply.  The expected voltage range at any of these points is probably 0
to 5 volts.

The heater element seems to be operated on 7 volts.  One end is grounded
via the wiring harness.  The ECM sources 7 volts into the other end.
This is different than all the other Honda HEGO applications.  The other
HEGOs are all connected to the battery voltage (nominally 12 volts) with
the ECM sinking to ground, presumably to measure the current to set a
malfunction flag.

The resistance specs for the heater, compared to regular HEGOs, confirm
that it should be run on something like 7 volts.  (Assuming that all
heaters need to be about the same wattage.)  I can only come up with two
possible reasons for the 7 volts:

  A high power quick heatup cycle.  However, the trouble shooting flow
  chart did not attempt to exclude any such cycles when checking for the
  7 volts.

  A need to have a fully heated and operating sensor even during
  cranking and when the battery is very low.

A caution: the troubleshooting guide did not specify how each circuit
was supposed to operate.  It merely listed the minimum number of checks
needed to identify the bad component.  Deducing the operation required
reading between the lines.

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 06:48:18 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: Non-GM knock sensor Q
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-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Bryant <Tony.Bryant@psc.fp.co.nz>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, September 02, 1998 1:37 AM
Subject: Re: Non-GM knock sensor Q


><snip>
>> that I am,  I took the catalog to a wreckers, and poked around
>> till I gathered the modules.  $5 a piece. then tried each one to find
>> the limits of it's detection, and then worked the timing curves
>> around till no knock triggered, heard, or seen in plug cuts.  
>> Turns out my v-8 SBC uses a 350 SBC sensor, and a Buick
>> v-6 ESC Module.  Works fine thankyou very much.
>>   Same ascoutic footprint?, I don't know.  Do I care?, no.  Bottom line
>> is that it works as it should.
>> Cheers
>> Bruce
>> 
>
>I'm intrigued by the phrase "or seen in plug cuts"; what does a plug 
>shown when there's been knocking?
>
>
Looks like little tiny fly turds on the center porcelan.  Just about 
need a magnifier/jeweler's loupe to see em.  May also look
kinda like pepper flakes, real fine.  
Cheers
Bruce


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>First off, I would LOVE to see that video...  Care to get in the video
>rental business?  :-)  
>Where did you get this video?  I'd really like to get my hands on a copy
>of this.

Opps, I forgot to mention I am from Australia.

Anyway, the video is called (roughly translated from french):
"438 seconds for the title" although it's narrated in English
I think it's 1994 vintage (has it been that long...)
and it runs for 17mins. and it's PAL format.

It's also got the Williams factory with demos of the Active suspension and sequential gearbox.

It came about when Channel 9's (Aust. TV network) Wide World of Sport showed this after a GP, and was inundated with calls as to where they could get a copy or if they could replay it again.

Well they ended up marketing it through (of all people) Volvo Marketing, and we could buy it for $25.00

So you see, I think I would be violating copyright if I digitize this for everyone to see, or if I make copies of it.
I can't see how I could rent it out to the U.S:)

Maybe if a return envelope with a tape in it finds it's way into my mailbox....

Anthony. (just bought up this thread for a potential new location of injectors).

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 07:47:57 1998
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cybergate.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: air-assisted injectors, sort of
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 07:46:41 -0400
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Faster burn rate will help those things but at some point, too fast a burn
rate makes the engine run rough.  Running really lean to reduce pumping
losses helps economy but so does a taller gear that causes the engine to
operate at low rpm and low vacuum.  Its good to have more than one way to
reduce pumping loss.

NASCAR restrictor plate engines, used at Talledega and Daytona, have
considerable vacuum in the intake manifold at full throttle.  A lot of
engine development work is directed at reducing the backflow into the intake
when the intake valve opens.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

From: Tom Sharpe <twsharpe@mtco.com>


>Sorry for the late reply. Here's another $.02. If I can get a faster flame
>front, I can reduce timing and torque loss from compressing burning
gasoline
>BTDC. I might even be able to reduce detonation.......If I could make the
>charge burn really fast (not detonate), I could time the engine ATDC.....
>You guys seem way ahead of me, so keep us all posted... Tom.



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From: "Andrew F. Gunnesch" <afgun@mongoose.dearborn.sgi.com>
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Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 08:25:33 -0400
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: ignition miss
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I have a 1989 TransAm GTA with the 5.7L MAF TPI.  I believe it's
a 165 ECM, right?  :)

well, having a problem...  the other day I re-timed my car.  set
the timing back about 3-4 degrees to make the pinging go higher in the
RPM band (it worked).  Now, however, I'm getting an intermittent
ignition problem:  It cuts out on me occasionally, like once a second
for several seconds in a row.  I fear that I might have caused an
intermittent open in one of the wires (reference lead maybe?) as the
tach drops when I get the miss.

Today on my way to work the car was really bad...  it was doing a lot
of cutting out, frustrating me greatly.

Today the tach was NOT dipping, but the speedometer was jumping up.
If I put the car in neutral and floor it, it revs up to about 6500
(won't go any higher now, used to easily hit over 7000) and the
speedometer jumps up to 140.

So, do I have a failing ECM?  VSS buffer?  Something else?

None of the other gauges seem affected by this, and the SES light does
not come on.  No codes are set, either.

If I get the miss at idle or while just starting from idle, the
engine dies and I have to re-start.

*sigh*

suggestions?

Thanks!

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 08:57:17 1998
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From: Frank F Parker <fparker@umich.edu>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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> >I'm intrigued by the phrase "or seen in plug cuts"; what does a plug 
> >shown when there's been knocking?
> >
> >
> Looks like little tiny fly turds on the center porcelan.  Just about 
> need a magnifier/jeweler's loupe to see em.  May also look
> kinda like pepper flakes, real fine.  
> Cheers
> Bruce
> 
Bruce,

Is this true for unleaded gas- in other words are the flakes lead
deposits?

regards,
frank



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 09:40:03 1998
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Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 09:49:43 -0400
From: Jason Weir <jweir@worldnet.att.net>
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Frank F Parker wrote:

> > >I'm intrigued by the phrase "or seen in plug cuts"; what does a
> plug
> > >shown when there's been knocking?
> > >
> > >
> > Looks like little tiny fly turds on the center porcelan.  Just about
>
> > need a magnifier/jeweler's loupe to see em.  May also look
> > kinda like pepper flakes, real fine.
> > Cheers
> > Bruce
> >
> Bruce,
>
> Is this true for unleaded gas- in other words are the flakes lead
> deposits?

Melted pieces of the piston sticking on the plug,  .... Not you see why
detonation is bad... couple that with a lean mixture and poof you have
burned piston.... JTW

--
Jason Weir
88 Wrangler - 258 Chevy TBI
Fayetteville, North Carolina
http://home.att.net/~jweir/tbi/inject.htm  --- TBI Installation Page
http://home.att.net/~jweir/resume.htm      --- My Resume
mailto:jweir@worldnet.att.net



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 10:18:40 1998
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I thought the flakes were pieces of the piston, and when you
see them it's almost too late.

		Ken

Frank F Parker wrote:
> 
> > >I'm intrigued by the phrase "or seen in plug cuts"; what does a plug
> > >shown when there's been knocking?
> > >
> > >
> > Looks like little tiny fly turds on the center porcelan.  Just about
> > need a magnifier/jeweler's loupe to see em.  May also look
> > kinda like pepper flakes, real fine.
> > Cheers
> > Bruce
> >
> Bruce,
> 
> Is this true for unleaded gas- in other words are the flakes lead
> deposits?
> 
> regards,
> frank

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 11:17:54 1998
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> I want to measure both inlet and outlet temperature through my 
> intercooler but don't really want to pay AUS$150 for a dual 
> thermo-couple readout unless there is no other alternative.
> 
> David West

you could take two GM intake air temp sensors (three wire devices i
think? 5v supply?)  and mount one before and one after, then use a
digital multimeter with a switch.  voltages translate linearly to
temperatures, but you'd have to figure out two temperatures to figure
out actual degrees.

on the upside, there is no cheaper way to do it.  oh, you can use
water temp gauges for the readouts too, but their range is not necessarily
what you're looking for.  GM air temp and coolant temp sensors (on modern
vehicles) have the same connector and same voltage-temperature map.

-jake


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 11:47:29 1998
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Hi David

I use a Cyberdyne gauge/sensors and switch to read my I/C in/out temps.
Avail from JCW or direct.

TurboDave 

At 04:43 PM 9/2/98 +0930, you wrote:
>Hello all,
>
>Does any know if there is there is a kit available that enables you to 
>measure temperature.
>
>I want to measure both inlet and outlet temperature through my 
>intercooler but don't really want to pay AUS$150 for a dual 
>thermo-couple readout unless there is no other alternative.
>
>I just built a EGO meter and that works rather well. I am keen to see 
>if there is a temp kit similar.
>
>Kind regards,
>
>David West
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 12:07:52 1998
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Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 08:11:03 -0700
From: Jon <jona@earthworld.com>
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Do you mean the NV SRAMs? Several people make them. They are readily
available in the US. Whaday want?    TVR Jon

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 14:07:04 1998
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Kits I don't know about, but thermistors are cheap (>$2 USD).
Be a good diy design project. If you need more info ask.

Regards, Jack

West, David wrote:

> I want to measure both inlet and outlet temperature through my
> intercooler but don't really want to pay AUS$150 for a dual
> thermo-couple readout unless there is no other alternative.



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 14:39:13 1998
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xxalexx@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> 
> > More like infamous.
> > Ever hear of the "fish" (or some variation) carburetor?
> >
> Yes, do you still have your weird and strange carb. book of forgotten
> patents or something, I lost mine many moons ago.
> Warning to inventors on this list
> One of these inventors did a Jimmy Hoffa.
> GM rules.
> alex
I have some stuff... I keep copies of things like this.
Urban legends claimed that the "fish" was built near an area where I
lived, and one of the people involved was the father of a local hardware
and lumber man.  Never tracked it down, though.  Supposedly one of those
guys pulled a "vanishing act", too.

You know how local legends can be, though.
Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 14:55:25 1998
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From: "Dupree, Robert A." <rdupree@Sidley.com>
To: "DIY_EFI (E-mail)" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: EFI on Single Piston Engine?
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 13:55:20 -0500 
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I've been wondering if anyone (private or manufacturer) has built an EFI
system for single piston small displacement engines?  I'm looking for
something to work with small Briggs&Stratton engines (5-10hp) all the way up
to maybe a 125cc watercooled motorcylce engine.

Let Me Know
	Bob Dupree

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 15:50:47 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Non-GM knock sensor Q//Plug Readings
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 15:53:43 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Frank F Parker <fparker@umich.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, September 02, 1998 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: Non-GM knock sensor Q


>> >I'm intrigued by the phrase "or seen in plug cuts"; what does a plug 
>> >shown when there's been knocking?
>> >
>> >
>> Looks like little tiny fly turds on the center porcelan.  Just about 
>> need a magnifier/jeweler's loupe to see em.  May also look
>> kinda like pepper flakes, real fine.  
>> Cheers
>> Bruce
>> 
>Bruce,
>
>Is this true for unleaded gas- in other words are the flakes lead
>deposits?

Actually it's aluminum, off the piston dome.   I heard a real good
explaination of it one time, but the ole gray matter is sufferin some,
BUT, the world ionization was mentioned several times........

With lots of practice ya can read it in any common fuel.  Did some
Alky motor stuff, and it showed up there to.  FWIW, some fuels 
make it harder to see, ie Shell, with the Mangese, if they still use
that stuff (pinkish tones to center porcelian).  Might also look for
corners of the center electrode rounding quickly (Autolite's seem
to least have this problem).
Cheers
Bruce            Ya can't get Bashful outta the car when he hears the 
                      words High Gear Plug Cuts.  Usually rough things
                      out in 1:1, and then go final in OD.  
>
>regards,
>frank
>



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 18:08:02 1998
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   Is there software available for modifying the fuel map of a GM type TPI
fuel injection system?  Are there any books, articles etc discribing how to
connect a laptop to a GM type fuel injection system via parallel port or
serial port in lieu of PROM to change(tune) operating parameter map?? I am
trying to adapt a salvaged GM TPI system to a six cylinder engine which has
spent all its life carburated. I am sure with all the clever guys out there
subscribing to this site someone must have already accomplished this feat. Any
help appreciated.

   Paul

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 18:07:38 1998
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   Is there software available for modifying the fuel map of a GM type TPI
fuel injection system?  Are there any books, articles etc discribing how to
connect a laptop to a GM type fuel injection system via parallel port or
serial port in lieu of PROM to change(tune) operating parameter map?? I am
trying to adapt a salvaged GM TPI system to a six cylinder engine which has
spent all its life carburated. I am sure with all the clever guys out there
subscribing to this site someone must have already accomplished this feat. Any
help appreciated.

   Paul

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 19:21:54 1998
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From: Tom Sharpe <twsharpe@mtco.com>
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Greg Hermann wrote:

>  My
> >understanding
> >is that it's a concoction of Benzene, Tolulene, etc.
>
> Don't forget the Xylene--the nastiest and most carcinogenic of the bunch,
> unless, of course some or all of the above are nitrated to one degree and
> percentage or another!!! Then there are other neat things like hydrazine.
> Try reading a book about the things Werner Von Braun put into V-2's and
> some of his later rockets. Also try reading some stuff about torpedo motor
> fuels. Neat, but don't sniff it.
>
> Regards, Greg
>
> and other nasty
> >stuff that isn't usually
> >a large part of pump gas.
> >
> >It may be lead-free, but it's not pump gas.

  I have some experience with Hydrazine in gasoline.... in nitro, it breaks
the chem. bonds and after 15 min in the sun, turns into a class A explosive.
In Gas, it acts like a combustion catalyst... 10cc/gal is plenty and it works.
just watch the tach.. broken rods are expensive..
regards  Tom





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Jake Sternberg wrote:

> Compressed natural gas has an octane rating around 120 +
>
> turbocharging an engine using natural gas makes sense
> because natural gas costs about 35-40 cents per "gallon"
> in your home and about 65 cents per "gallon" at a gas station
> (if you don't have a 3600 PSI pump at your house).
>
> many cities in the US offer a rebate to convert your vehicle
> to natural gas, like Austin, texas.  here, i can convert for
> free.
>
> (* a "gallon" of compressed natural gas is the amount of CNG with
> the equivalent energy of a gallon of gasoline)

Good points except that street cars are generally "crusing" where turbos
don't helpBSFC, however very high compression does....... then you can't
run as dual fuel.Regards  Tom





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Try Tech America   1-800-442-7221

Bruce Plecan wrote:

> Anybody know where some one can buy this brand of chips?.
> Looking for prices on some SRAM.
> TIA
> Bruce      Staffers all inna flurry at the mention of torpedos after
>                 skiing incident.   Doc ain't been right since the trooper
>                 explained how dangerous skiing behind a boat being
>                 towed onna dirt road could be..





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Jake Sternberg wrote:

> Compressed natural gas has an octane rating around 120 +
>
> turbocharging an engine using natural gas makes sense
> because natural gas costs about 35-40 cents per "gallon"
> in your home and about 65 cents per "gallon" at a gas station
> (if you don't have a 3600 PSI pump at your house).
>
> many cities in the US offer a rebate to convert your vehicle
> to natural gas, like Austin, texas.  here, i can convert for
> free.
>
> (* a "gallon" of compressed natural gas is the amount of CNG with
> the equivalent energy of a gallon of gasoline)

Good points except that street cars are generally "crusing" where turbos
don't helpBSFC, however very high compression does....... then you can't
run as dual fuel.Regards  Tom





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Greg Hermann wrote:

> >Good point. I'm contemplating a similar situation - FI'ing a
> >single-port VW bus app. The dual-ports breathe better, but the
> >single-port heads don't crack ...
> >
> >Regards, Jack
> >
> >Stowe, Ted-SEA wrote:
> >>
> >> isn't an L-Jettronic a 4 cyl FI, (4 injectors) ?
> >> with an mgb head and the Siamesed intake ports, wouldn't that be an issue ?
>
> First reaction---OOOOPPS!
> Second reaction--might could be able to put two injectors in each port and
> make it work pretty durn well.
>
> Regards,  Greg

The old 1600 DP EFI VW had ?? circuits.....You could reverse the wires to the
injectors and it always ran the same... even side to side. I built a lo...ong
intake with a Ford 2bbl where the tubes met in the middle like a header collector.
It would RPM and still eat clutches. Best running (stock) VW I ever saw.

Regards  Tom




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 20:23:33 1998
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From: Alex Samson <asamson@orausa.com>
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE Software for modifying GM TPI Fuel Map
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 1998 17:22:52 -0700 
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On Sept 1, Paul said:
>  Is there software available for modifying the fuel map of a GM type
TPI
> fuel injection system?  Are there any books, articles etc discribing
how to

Personally, I find it better to start from scratch and build a new ECU
from ground up because I do not get boxed in by the limited information
available.  One could also use some off-the-shelf industrial
microcontroller with your choice of CPU and full documentation.
Wouldnt it be great if we could actually review the software source
codes for those GM boxes? Likewise, I think it takes too much trouble to
decompile the firmware to produce the source code.  Whaa?  The guy just
wants to change a carburetor, and we are talking software??  Sometimes,
I miss the good old days when we had a collection of main jets for a
hobby.  

Cheers,
alex samson 


------ =_NextPart_001_01BDD6D0.FDDF6D40
Content-Type: text/html
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<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dus-ascii">
<META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version =
5.5.1960.3">
<TITLE>RE Software for modifying GM TPI Fuel Map</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<BR>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">On Sept 1, Paul said:</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">&gt;</FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" =
SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">&nbsp; Is there software available for =
modifying the fuel map of a GM type TPI</FONT>
<BR><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">&gt; fuel injection =
system?&nbsp; Are there any books, articles etc discribing how =
to</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">Personally, I find it better to start =
from scratch and build a new ECU from ground up because I do not get =
boxed in by the limited information available.&nbsp; One could also use =
some off-the-shelf industrial microcontroller with your choice of CPU =
and full documentation.&nbsp;&nbsp; Wouldnt it be great if we could =
actually review the software source codes for those GM boxes? Likewise, =
I think it takes too much trouble to decompile the firmware to produce =
the source code.&nbsp; Whaa?&nbsp; The guy just wants to change a =
carburetor, and we are talking software??&nbsp; Sometimes, I miss the =
good old days when we had a collection of main jets for a hobby.&nbsp; =
</FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">Cheers,</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">alex samson </FONT>
</P>

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------ =_NextPart_001_01BDD6D0.FDDF6D40--

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Look into thermistors, Omega engineering handbook has some circuits
and app notes.  All you need is reference voltage and voltmeter.
A possible circuit is inlet outlet difference.
alex
> >Does any know if there is there is a kit available that enables you to 
> >measure temperature.
> >
> >I want to measure both inlet and outlet temperature through my 
> >intercooler but don't really want to pay AUS$150 for a dual 
> >thermo-couple readout unless there is no other alternative.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 20:29:53 1998
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I use unleaded gas and get little specs on the porcelan,
as Bruce describes when I have deto from too much boost,
so I don't think it is lead (at least in my case)..
 How did he get the flies to......
MV

In a message dated 9/2/98 9:15:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time, fparker@umich.edu
writes:
> > Looks like little tiny fly turds on the center porcelan.  Just about 
>  > need a magnifier/jeweler's loupe to see em.  May also look
>  > kinda like pepper flakes, real fine.  
>  > Cheers
>  > Bruce
>  > 
>  Bruce,
>  
>  Is this true for unleaded gas- in other words are the flakes lead
>  deposits?
>  

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 20:40:18 1998
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Dallas NV or not cheap, you might try a 3V battery backup from
Genovies and a SRAM
alex 
> > Anybody know where some one can buy this brand of chips?.
> > Looking for prices on some SRAM.
> > TIA

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 20:43:33 1998
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-----Original Message-----
From: PFMaxin@aol.com <PFMaxin@aol.com>
To: DIY_EFI (E-mail) <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, September 02, 1998 6:27 PM
Subject: Software for modifying GM TPI Fuel Map


>   Is there software available for modifying the fuel map of a GM type TPI
>fuel injection system?

The Turbo Shop, owner Steve Cole, So Calif, phone # archives.

Are there any books, articles etc discribing how to
>connect a laptop to a GM type fuel injection system via parallel port or
>serial port in lieu of PROM to change(tune) operating parameter map??

Kalmaker, australia, they do have a web site.

 I am
>trying to adapt a salvaged GM TPI system to a six cylinder engine which has
>spent all its life carburated. I am sure with all the clever guys out there
>subscribing to this site someone must have already accomplished this feat.
Any
>help appreciated.
>
>   Paul
>
Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 21:31:12 1998
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Renault F1 V10
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>Greg Hermann wrote:
>
>>  My
>> >understanding
>> >is that it's a concoction of Benzene, Tolulene, etc.
>>
>> Don't forget the Xylene--the nastiest and most carcinogenic of the bunch,
>> unless, of course some or all of the above are nitrated to one degree and
>> percentage or another!!! Then there are other neat things like hydrazine.
>> Try reading a book about the things Werner Von Braun put into V-2's and
>> some of his later rockets. Also try reading some stuff about torpedo motor
>> fuels. Neat, but don't sniff it.
>>
>> Regards, Greg
>>
>> and other nasty
>> >stuff that isn't usually
>> >a large part of pump gas.
>> >
>> >It may be lead-free, but it's not pump gas.
>
>  I have some experience with Hydrazine in gasoline.... in nitro, it breaks
>the chem. bonds and after 15 min in the sun, turns into a class A explosive.
>In Gas, it acts like a combustion catalyst... 10cc/gal is plenty and it works.
>just watch the tach.. broken rods are expensive..
>regards  Tom

Hi Guys---

After a bit more research, the mad chemist returns.. At the very least, ELF
(a very common banner in F1) Racing fuel contains Propylene Oxide-- big
time motorcycle racers have been disqualified for running Elf cuz it
contains the stuff. Someone who knows told me that you need to go at least
two jet sizes richer on a bike to run it. His comment was yeah, it's pump
gas, allright, the question is , which pump? After all, it's a liquid, so
you can pump it---isn't that what the rule means????

Some of the other goodies are as follows (who knows what is in current vogue):
Analine (the middle name that goes with GAF, (the nice film people's
initials) was the fuel used in buzz bombs.
Hydrazine hydride
UDMH (Unsymetrical DiMethyl Hydrazine)
TEA (Tri-Ethyl Aluminium)
Brown fuming Nitric Acid

Most of these are unspeakably nasty stuff, most or all have gone into
rocket motors, and probably more than a couple into torpedo motors. U-boat
waffen commanders be damned, our own Navy guys didn't learn to call rot-gut
whiskey "torpedo juice" from the Germans, they learned that one from our
own guys who wear the dolphins on their chests!!
Somehow, I don't think the Navy wants the EPA or others of their way of
thinking to have any clue what kind of fish food they have been dumping
into the drink, so torpedo fuels is kind of a quiet subject, even decades
later.

Yo Bruce-- hows the FBI doin' with those 747's--think we've distracted 'em
yet??? I hope Timmy McVeigh hasn't found a way to get on this list, either!

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 21:39:20 1998
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Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 21:42:57 -0400
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>Most of these are unspeakably nasty stuff, most or all have gone into
>rocket motors, and probably more than a couple into torpedo motors. 

Actually, I prefer Triptane for really high boost.

TurboDave


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 21:54:26 1998
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Yep. In days of yore some tweaker pulled into my shop with a Type 3
D-jet
he had "converted" to carburation by mounting a 34PICT-1 on the plenum.
Barely ran, blowing gas everywhere - He had 32 psi going to the carb...
Put a 3 psi pump on it - Ran like a Swiss watch. Could'nt believe it.
Best
part was this guy was convinced he had beat the system... We wanted to
screw
him by hooking the FI back up, of course... He's probably still telling
folks
how he got over on us crooks...

Regards, Jack

Tom Sharpe wrote:

> The old 1600 DP EFI VW had ?? circuits.....You could reverse the wires to the
> injectors and it always ran the same... even side to side. I built a lo...ong
> intake with a Ford 2bbl where the tubes met in the middle like a header collector.
> It would RPM and still eat clutches. Best running (stock) VW I ever saw.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 21:54:43 1998
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Bruce Plecan wrote:

> Looks like little tiny fly turds on the center porcelan.  Just about
> need a magnifier/jeweler's loupe to see em.  May also look
> kinda like pepper flakes, real fine.
> Cheers
> Bruce

PS  Those are pieces of spark plug electrode/ground, head, valve, and/or
piston!  Regards Tom



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 22:01:37 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: RE Software for modifying GM TPI Fuel Map
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>On Sept 1, Paul said:
>>  Is there software available for modifying the fuel map of a GM type
>TPI
>> fuel injection system?  Are there any books, articles etc discribing
>how to
>
>Personally, I find it better to start from scratch and build a new ECU
>from ground up because I do not get boxed in by the limited information
>available.  One could also use some off-the-shelf industrial
>microcontroller with your choice of CPU and full documentation.
>Wouldnt it be great if we could actually review the software source
>codes for those GM boxes? Likewise, I think it takes too much trouble to
>decompile the firmware to produce the source code.  Whaa?  The guy just
>wants to change a carburetor, and we are talking software??  Sometimes,
>I miss the good old days when we had a collection of main jets for a
>hobby.
>
>Cheers,
>alex samson
>
Doncha know it's all a plot by the EPA to weld all of our hoods shut??
Hillary's been holding secret hearings on it for three years now (with Al
in second chair muttering "the ice is melting, the ice is melting!". Cuz
she's been so busy with it, that's why Bill had to seek comfort in Monica's
lips. We, the only ones who know how to circumvent their wiles, should
consider ourselves "La Resistance"!!!!

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 22:47:49 1998
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Alex Samson wrote:

>
>
> On Sept 1, Paul said:
> >  Is there software available for modifying the fuel map of a GM type
> TPI
> > fuel injection system?  Are there any books, articles etc discribing
> how to
>
> Personally, I find it better to start from scratch and build a new ECU
> from ground up because I do not get boxed in by the limited
> information available.  One could also use some off-the-shelf
> industrial microcontroller with your choice of CPU and full
> documentation.   Wouldnt it be great if we could actually review the
> software source codes for those GM boxes? Likewise, I think it takes
> too much trouble to decompile the firmware to produce the source
> code.  Whaa?  The guy just wants to change a carburetor, and we are
> talking software??  Sometimes, I miss the good old days when we had a
> collection of main jets for a hobby.
>
> Cheers,
> alex samson

10-4, Lets do it.. If someone sends me the code from a 68HC11 EFI unit,
I'll start translating it.....Maps too... Regards  Tom




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Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 21:58:52 -0500
From: Tom Sharpe <twsharpe@mtco.com>
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Does anyone have a set of 34 lb/hr injectors for sale (cheap)?. What's
the price??? Anyone want to trade for a set of 30's??? I feel the need
for speed!

TIA  Tom

PS I have a Edelbrock ProFlow w/ 68HC11 processor and 4 channel,
sequential injection. It uses GM sensors and a Ford IAC unit on a 4BBl
air valve. I think that it could be reasonably easy to "clone" this
unit, including the software.......Has anyone done any work on
these????  TAgain


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 23:05:34 1998
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I don't think there is just a thing.  I know ord sells them as 30's and 
GM as 32's but I think that is mostly due to the difference in fuel rail 
pressure between th two manufactures...GM have a 45psi regulator and ford 
using 40psi.

What regulator are you using and can you get what you need by going to a 
GM regulator or one of those adjustable units.
later
jw


On Wed, 2 Sep 1998, Tom Sharpe wrote:

> Does anyone have a set of 34 lb/hr injectors for sale (cheap)?. What's
> the price??? Anyone want to trade for a set of 30's??? I feel the need
> for speed!
> 
> TIA  Tom
> 
> PS I have a Edelbrock ProFlow w/ 68HC11 processor and 4 channel,
> sequential injection. It uses GM sensors and a Ford IAC unit on a 4BBl
> air valve. I think that it could be reasonably easy to "clone" this
> unit, including the software.......Has anyone done any work on
> these????  TAgain
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 23:06:32 1998
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Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 23:16:21 -0400
From: Jason Weir <jweir@worldnet.att.net>
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Tom Sharpe wrote:

> Does anyone have a set of 34 lb/hr injectors for sale (cheap)?. What's
>
> the price??? Anyone want to trade for a set of 30's??? I feel the need
>
> for speed!
>
> TIA  Tom
>
> PS I have a Edelbrock ProFlow w/ 68HC11 processor and 4 channel,
> sequential injection. It uses GM sensors and a Ford IAC unit on a 4BBl
>
> air valve. I think that it could be reasonably easy to "clone" this
> unit, including the software.......Has anyone done any work on
> these????  TAgain

might this be a clone of the GM system? I have been looking at the
disassemblies over at Ludis's site and the 7747 disassembly mentions the
68hc11 as processor???

--
Jason Weir
88 Wrangler - 258 Chevy TBI
Fayetteville, North Carolina
http://home.att.net/~jweir/tbi/inject.htm  --- TBI Installation Page
http://home.att.net/~jweir/resume.htm      --- My Resume
mailto:jweir@worldnet.att.net



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  2 23:36:22 1998
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Iam befuddled!  I have a Range Rover with O2 sensors that drift downwards in
voltage.  Just warmed up the sensors cycle from 800mv to 0mv.  As the engine
gets to operating temperature the cycling range drops to 600mv (hi) to minus
300mv. (low) with a mean of around 100mv sometimes even below 0!

What's wrong with this picture?  What could be causing this?

I have added an extra ground to the sensors and I have changed both of them
and I have substituted another ecm.

I am going to unplug the alternator and retest.  Please give me the benefit of
your opinion if you have a theory or if you have experience in this area

Thanks
Alan Briggs
FCECLtd@aol.com

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From: Bruce Robertson <bruce_robertson@MAIL.TAIT.CO.NZ>
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Subject:  Fuel Curves
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Hello,

What would an ideal plot of manifold vacuum versus injected fuel
quantity look like? I am still on the job of tuning my Lucas mechanical
injection - last night I measured the fuel curve and it seems a bit dodgy to
me (although my opinion is not very qualified). At low vac the fuel
delivery is high, and it drops very rapidly (and linearly) until it reaches
about one third of its original quantity, and then it changes slope and
linearly decreases until it gets to max vac. This means that about the first
10% of the total vac increase reduces the fuel quantity by about 66%
and the last 90% of vac reduces it by 33% (the two parts of the graph
are both linear of course because it relies on springs to derive the
curve). Does this seem good/bad/otherwise to anybody who knows?

Any comments gratefully recieved.

Regards

Bruce Robertson
Lucas injected Bond Equipe Sufferer - New Zealand


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-----Original Message-----
From: ECMnut@aol.com <ECMnut@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Non-GM knock sensor Q


>I use unleaded gas and get little specs on the porcelan,
>as Bruce describes when I have deto from too much boost,
>so I don't think it is lead (at least in my case)..
> How did he get the flies to......

Gives me something to do while the Feds are here.  One
thing nice about being off the paved road by 45 miles is
that they kick up so much dust ya know when they are 
coming.  Or when Dopey is late for work.
Cheers
Bruce

BTW, Tip in detonation will leave the same specks as when
doing WOT Blasts.
Darn, I didn't mean to let that out <g>.


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-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Robertson <bruce_robertson@MAIL.TAIT.CO.NZ>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, September 03, 1998 12:44 AM
Subject: Fuel Curves


>Hello,
>
>What would an ideal plot of manifold vacuum versus injected fuel
>quantity look like?

Some folks tend to beleive therir are some genertic versions 
that will work on anything, and for a mild stock engine that is
close.  But, the second you have tinkered with anything that's
about meaningless.
  In 332 incoming the are some tune-up docs. that I tried to
explain some of what things might look like, for a modified 
engine.  
  It's not about what the table looks like, it's about how it runs.
Cheers
Bruce
>Regards
>
>Bruce Robertson
>Lucas injected Bond Equipe Sufferer - New Zealand
>
>


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-----Original Message-----
From: GRUMPYNOMO@aol.com <GRUMPYNOMO@aol.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, September 02, 1998 11:51 PM
Subject: How good are you at recognizing abnormal O2 sensor beavior


>Iam befuddled!

We must be related

 I have a Range Rover with O2 sensors that drift downwards in
>voltage.  Just warmed up the sensors cycle from 800mv to 0mv.  As the
engine
>gets to operating temperature the cycling range drops to 600mv (hi) to
minus
>300mv. (low) with a mean of around 100mv sometimes even below 0!
>
>What's wrong with this picture?

Sounds about right to me.

 What could be causing this?

Normal warm procedure.  Think of it as the choke on, and the
the engine warms up, and leans out..  The ecm hunts for the
perfect mixture, so the O2v floats around.  At WOT, the exhaust
flow is such a large volume, that it appears to be a rather
steady reading.
>
>I have added an extra ground to the sensors and I have changed both of them
>and I have substituted another ecm.
>
>I am going to unplug the alternator and retest.  Please give me the benefit
of
>your opinion if you have a theory or if you have experience in this area
>
>Thanks
>Alan Briggs
>FCECLtd@aol.com
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 04:03:53 1998
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 This is probably off topic for here, but I plead for pity...
  I've quite accidently become a Ford owner, and am pretty much in a
fog on them. I've got fuel through injector,(85 tempo) replaced everything
in fuel and ign system except o2 sensor and brain. It used to run, but
oly with major vacuum lines disconnected, and when it would idle it
was horrible. IT WOULD DRIVE AND RUN ON ALL CYLINDERS, occasionally.
One day while idling it died, and has yet to ever re-light. I've
checked for obvious bad connections, but admit not knowing where to look.
Any of you Ford guys got some tricks up your sleeve I don't know??

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 04:49:19 1998
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> 
> > Just a forward seems, reasonable.
> > >I have no interest in Circuit Design except that they are still there
> 
> It's been more than 3 weeks and still waiting,
> I would recommend advanced reservations.
> Please do not tell too many, untill they expand. 
> I did see a similiar place in Nuts Volts which I hope eases
> the work load.  
> My  first batch, the holes and cutting were not exactly close 
> tolerance, but the board work, and for me easier and cheaper than
> DIY.  Is any one intersested in a etching tank, exposure bulb 
> and other materials?
> Also who does photo transparency locally, Kinkos?
> maybe less than $8
> alex
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 07:38:33 1998
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From: "Andrew F. Gunnesch" <afgun@mongoose.dearborn.sgi.com>
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Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 07:37:07 -0400
In-Reply-To: Robert Gallant <gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
        "Re: ignition miss" (Sep  2,  9:04am)
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To: third-gen@f-body.org, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Subject: Re: ignition miss
> I have a 1989 TransAm GTA with the 5.7L MAF TPI.  I believe it's
> a 165 ECM, right?  :)
>
> well, having a problem...  the other day I re-timed my car.  set
> the timing back about 3-4 degrees to make the pinging go higher in the

Ok, here's some more data points...  today on the way to work the miss
was very mild, almost non-existant for the most part.

However, the speedometer was still doing the wild thang, jumping up
every few seconds.  As an experiment I engaged the cruise control and
the car went crazy with the speedometer's movement.

So...  it looks like a problem with the VSS buffer box or VSS input is
part of my likely culprit.  To get some more information, what does the
ECM in my car use VSS for?  Maybe it's thinking that somehow the car is
going past the speed cutoff and cutting out my ignition or injectors?
That would explain a lot...  anybody know how much a VSS buffer box
from a wrecking yard would be?

I'm hopefully going to get a diacom this weekend from my buddy so that I
can do some investigation before I just go blindly swapping parts :-/

Thanks for your input,

--andrew

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 08:48:42 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew F. Gunnesch <afgun@mongoose.dearborn.sgi.com>
To: third-gen@f-body.org <third-gen@f-body.org>;
diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, September 03, 1998 8:23 AM
Subject: Re: ignition miss


>Subject: Re: ignition miss
>> I have a 1989 TransAm GTA with the 5.7L MAF TPI.  I believe it's
>> a 165 ECM, right?  :)
>>
>> well, having a problem...  the other day I re-timed my car.  set
>> the timing back about 3-4 degrees to make the pinging go higher in the

Try setting everything to stock, and see how it runs.  Check fuel
pressure, at idle, and WOT.  Of course follow safety guide.
>
>However, the speedometer was still doing the wild thang, jumping up every
few seconds.  As an experiment I engaged the cruise control and the car went
crazy with the speedometer's movement.
So...  it looks like a problem with the VSS buffer box or VSS input is
part of my likely culprit.  To get some more information, what does the ECM
in my car use VSS for?  Maybe it's thinking that somehow the car is going
past the speed cutoff and cutting out my ignition or injectors?

Disconnect the connector at the trans, and see if the problem goes
away.   Would at least rule the vss in or out.
If no difference, try unplugging MAF.

That would explain a lot...  anybody know how much a VSS buffer box from a
wrecking yard would be?
>
>I'm hopefully going to get a diacom this weekend from my buddy so that I
>can do some investigation before I just go blindly swapping parts :-/
>
>Thanks for your input,
>
>--andrew
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 09:10:33 1998
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Injectors
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Regardless of what is available, I believe that ALL injectors are nominally
rated at 3 bar fuel pressure delta from rail to manifold--44.07 psi.

Regards, Greg


>I don't think there is just a thing.  I know ord sells them as 30's and
>GM as 32's but I think that is mostly due to the difference in fuel rail
>pressure between th two manufactures...GM have a 45psi regulator and ford
>using 40psi.
>
>What regulator are you using and can you get what you need by going to a
>GM regulator or one of those adjustable units.
>later
>jw
>
>
>On Wed, 2 Sep 1998, Tom Sharpe wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have a set of 34 lb/hr injectors for sale (cheap)?. What's
>> the price??? Anyone want to trade for a set of 30's??? I feel the need
>> for speed!
>>
>> TIA  Tom
>>
>> PS I have a Edelbrock ProFlow w/ 68HC11 processor and 4 channel,
>> sequential injection. It uses GM sensors and a Ford IAC unit on a 4BBl
>> air valve. I think that it could be reasonably easy to "clone" this
>> unit, including the software.......Has anyone done any work on
>> these????  TAgain
>>
>>



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 10:15:16 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Turbocharging a natural gas engine
References: <Pine.GSO.3.96.980901141401.273A-100000@piglet.cc.utexas.edu> <35EDD0E8.9FC12989@mtco.com>
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Guess I'm turning into a crank in my old age, but "free" means
somebody else is paying for it. Guess who?

> Jake Sternberg wrote:

> > many cities in the US offer a rebate to convert your vehicle
> > to natural gas, like Austin, texas.  here, i can convert for
> > free.



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 10:22:26 1998
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Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 09:22:11 -0500
From: Joe Boucher <BoucherJC@lmtas.lmco.com>
Subject: ESC diagnostic
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
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I don't think my ESC module is working.  I was experiencing knocking, so I retarded my timing.  Then I thought, that ain't the way this is supposed to work.  So, I dug in the factory manual, and
found some diagnostics.

I thought the system worked by grounding a wire from the ESC module through the knock sensor.  The one in the Suburban was new when I installed the engine.  The diagnostics said to disconnect
the knock sensor and hook that wire "momentarily" to a 12 volt source while watching the timing mark.  Well, I tried both ways, 12 volt and grounding,  and didn't notice any difference in the
timing.

There was voltage at the ECS module, so it is powered.

I forgot to hook the knock sensor up and the next day the check engine light came on.  I rehooked the wire up and started the engine and the light was out.  I was rushed and didn't use the ALDL
to look for trouble codes.  I'm assuming the ECM somehow figured out the wire was disconnected, but how if the module isn't working?

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Joe (Looking for fly turds) Boucher
'70 RS/SS Camaro  '81 TBI Suburban


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 10:23:00 1998
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From: "Andrew W MacFadyen" <am018@post.almac.co.uk>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: temperature sensors
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 00:02:19 +0100
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If your temperatures are less than 110c the  LM35CZ will give linear
results and is much  easier to use than thermistor as it has positive
temperature coefficient and a higher output change per degree.  In the UK
as well as selling digital thermometers at rock bottom prices Maplin
Eleconics sell DIY modules for doing this sort of thing.

> From: West, David <djwest@subcorp.com.au>
> To: 'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'
> Subject: temperature sensors
> Date: Wednesday, September 02, 1998 8:13 AM
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> Does any know if there is there is a kit available that enables you to 
> measure temperature.
> 
> I want to measure both inlet and outlet temperature through my 
> intercooler but don't really want to pay AUS$150 for a dual 
> thermo-couple readout unless there is no other alternative.
> 
> I just built a EGO meter and that works rather well. I am keen to see 
> if there is a temp kit similar.
> 
> Kind regards,
> 
> David West
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 10:31:55 1998
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Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 09:31:47 -0500
From: Joe Boucher <BoucherJC@lmtas.lmco.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V3 #410
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
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> From: talltom@espace.dcl.com
> Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 01:03:38 PDT
> Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V3 #409
>
>  This is probably off topic for here, but I plead for pity...
>   I've quite accidently become a Ford owner, and am pretty much in a
> fog on them. I've got fuel through injector,(85 tempo) replaced everything
> in fuel and ign system except o2 sensor and brain. It used to run, but
> oly with major vacuum lines disconnected, and when it would idle it
> was horrible. IT WOULD DRIVE AND RUN ON ALL CYLINDERS, occasionally.
> One day while idling it died, and has yet to ever re-light. I've
> checked for obvious bad connections, but admit not knowing where to look.
> Any of you Ford guys got some tricks up your sleeve I don't know??

Your post is a bit confusing to me.  But this sounds serious enough that you need
to start from the basics.  You need fuel, compression and spark for an engine to
run.

Run a compression test, see if you have spark and fuel squirting when you try to
start the engine, then get back to us.

The only thought I have is your timing belt is messed up.  Does this car have one?

Joe (GM to the bone) Boucher
'70 RS/SS Camaro  '81 TBI Suburban


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 10:50:56 1998
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From: Mike Pitts <mpitts@netspeak.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Injectors
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 10:49:01 -0400 
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> Does anyone have a set of 34 lb/hr injectors for sale (cheap)?. 

Bosch blue top injectors, from the Merkur XR4TI, are rated at 
36 lb/hr.  If you're lucky, you may be able to find some in the 
junkyard.

-Mike

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 11:02:37 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: Injectors
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-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, September 03, 1998 9:57 AM
Subject: Re: Injectors


>Regardless of what is available, I believe that ALL injectors are nominally
>rated at 3 bar fuel pressure delta from rail to manifold--44.07 psi.

Trouble is there is no "Standard".
Great marketing ploy, raise the PSI a little and act like your selling
a bigger injector.  Several aftermarket companies do that.  When
buying injectors, be sure to get the PSI they are rated at!.
Cheers
Bruce
>
>Regards, Greg
>
>
>>I don't think there is just a thing.  I know ord sells them as 30's and
>>GM as 32's but I think that is mostly due to the difference in fuel rail
>>pressure between th two manufactures...GM have a 45psi regulator and ford
>>using 40psi.
>>
>>What regulator are you using and can you get what you need by going to a
>>GM regulator or one of those adjustable units.
>>later
>>jw
>>
>>
>>On Wed, 2 Sep 1998, Tom Sharpe wrote:
>>
>>> Does anyone have a set of 34 lb/hr injectors for sale (cheap)?. What's
>>> the price??? Anyone want to trade for a set of 30's??? I feel the need
>>> for speed!
>>>
>>> TIA  Tom
>>>
>>> PS I have a Edelbrock ProFlow w/ 68HC11 processor and 4 channel,
>>> sequential injection. It uses GM sensors and a Ford IAC unit on a 4BBl
>>> air valve. I think that it could be reasonably easy to "clone" this
>>> unit, including the software.......Has anyone done any work on
>>> these????  TAgain
>>>
>>>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 11:37:02 1998
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Subject: Re: Turbocharging a natural gas engine
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 11:38:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <35EDD0E8.9FC12989@mtco.com> from "Tom Sharpe" at Sep 2, 98 06:12:40 pm
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> 
> > Compressed natural gas has an octane rating around 120 +
> >
> > turbocharging an engine using natural gas makes sense
> > because natural gas costs about 35-40 cents per "gallon"
> > in your home and about 65 cents per "gallon" at a gas station
> > (if you don't have a 3600 PSI pump at your house).
> >
> > many cities in the US offer a rebate to convert your vehicle
> > to natural gas, like Austin, texas.  here, i can convert for
> > free.
> >
> > (* a "gallon" of compressed natural gas is the amount of CNG with
> > the equivalent energy of a gallon of gasoline)
> 
> Good points except that street cars are generally "crusing" where turbos
> don't helpBSFC, however very high compression does....... then you can't
> run as dual fuel.Regards  Tom


some turbo cars are under boost at cruise
even 5 lbs will give a 30 % increase in power
so a 8:! motor behaves like a 10:1
which does help BSFC

Clive 

> 
> 
> 
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 11:44:36 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: ESC diagnostic
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 11:47:42 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Boucher <BoucherJC@lmtas.lmco.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, September 03, 1998 11:17 AM
Subject: ESC diagnostic


>I don't think my ESC module is working.  I was experiencing knocking, so I
retarded my timing.  Then I thought, that ain't the way this is supposed to
work.  So, I dug in the factory manual, and
>found some diagnostics.

Pausing here for a moment to state the following is for what I assume is a
gm system!?..,:;';.>.
>
>I thought the system worked by grounding a wire from the ESC module through
the knock sensor.

Nope, the sensor is pezaioelectric  doodad, so it developes a
voltage when shaken, not stirred.

  The one in the Suburban was new when I installed the engine.  The
diagnostics said to disconnect
>the knock sensor and hook that wire "momentarily" to a 12 volt source while
watching the timing mark.  Well, I tried both ways, 12 volt and grounding,
and didn't notice any difference in the
>timing.

Should have like a 7v signal to ecm, sensed knock drops it down,
from there.   If ya'all want I have some 555 circuits that you can
use in leiu of a knock sensor to trigger and hole the esc in a knock
mode.  The output on these is 12v.  If you hook a speaker to em them, they
even sound like a pinging car sorta.
>
>There was voltage at the ECS module, so it is powered.
>
>I forgot to hook the knock sensor up and the next day the check engine
light came on.  I rehooked the wire up and started the engine and the light
was out.

Ecm does a 1st engine "on" diagnostic, and then a while driving
down the street test.  "on" test to look for power on pin something,
and then run test adds a couple hundered degrees for an instant
to see if the knock sensor hears it.  Hundred degrees means a
far amount (40ish)..

  I was rushed and didn't use the ALDL
>to look for trouble codes.  I'm assuming the ECM somehow figured out the
wire was disconnected, but how if the module isn't working?
>
>Any suggestions?

Don't invest in the stock market.
Don't try to train flies, their life span is so short they don't get
to use the education very long..
>
>Thanks,
>
>Joe (Looking for fly turds) Boucher
>'70 RS/SS Camaro  '81 TBI Suburban
>
Hey Joe we got some over here.
Cheers
Bruce       Bashful had a beer with dinner last night and spent the
                 rest of the evening sitting on a 1227747, and making
                 his own sounds effects while using  a flight stimulator.
                 Poor boy can't hold a brew,  but he does have fun....


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 11:47:46 1998
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Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 11:51:23 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: David Piper <dapiper@one.net>
Subject: Re: Injectors
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I have just repl my 36 pph Bosch hose end inj.  Can you use these?

TurboDave

At 09:58 PM 9/2/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Does anyone have a set of 34 lb/hr injectors for sale (cheap)?. What's
>the price??? Anyone want to trade for a set of 30's??? I feel the need
>for speed!
>
>TIA  Tom
>
>PS I have a Edelbrock ProFlow w/ 68HC11 processor and 4 channel,
>sequential injection. It uses GM sensors and a Ford IAC unit on a 4BBl
>air valve. I think that it could be reasonably easy to "clone" this
>unit, including the software.......Has anyone done any work on
>these????  TAgain
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 11:51:39 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Fuel Curves
References: <s5eec1c7.082@MAIL.TAIT.CO.NZ>
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CFM = (displacement in cubic inches/1728 ) X RPM/2 X MAP/406.8

      where MAP is inches of water, 406.8 "H2O = 1 atmosphere
      RPM/2 because its a four-cycle (is'nt it?)

lbs/hour of air = CFM X 60min/hr X .0805 lb_cu_ft
      
      so

lbs/hour of fuel = lbs/hour of air/ desired air-fuel ratio

Reality, as ever, is more complicated, but it's a place to start.

Regards, Jack

Bruce Robertson wrote:
> What would an ideal plot of manifold vacuum versus injected fuel
> quantity look like?


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 11:51:54 1998
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From: Alex Samson <asamson@orausa.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re Abnormal O2 reading
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 08:51:30 -0700 
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This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

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On 9/2/98, Alan Briggs said:
>I am befuddled!  I have a Range Rover with O2 sensors that drift
downwards >in voltage.  Just warmed up the sensors cycle from 800mv to
0mv.  As the >engine

I've seen this before on a Range Rover.  From what I saw, the owner
merely kept using the rover until the situation eventually got worse
with time, the engine would just eventually quit for no apparent reason.
Was a weak fuel pump dying.  The O2 sensor normally fluctuates like how
you described as the ECU tunes the mix in normal use but if it seems to
loose the battle and the O2 keeps reading 0, then it could signal
something bad developing.  

Cheer,
alex samson


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<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">On 9/2/98, Alan Briggs said:</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">&gt;</FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" =
SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">I am befuddled!&nbsp; I have a Range Rover with =
O2 sensors that drift downwards &gt;in voltage.&nbsp; Just warmed up =
the sensors cycle from 800mv to 0mv.&nbsp; As the &gt;engine</FONT></P>

<P><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">I've seen this =
before on a Range Rover.&nbsp; From what I saw, the owner merely kept =
using the rover until the situation eventually got worse with time, the =
engine would just eventually quit for no apparent reason.&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Was a weak fuel pump dying.&nbsp; The O2 sensor normally fluctuates =
like how you described as the ECU tunes the mix in normal use but if it =
seems to loose the battle and the O2 keeps reading 0, then it could =
signal something bad developing.&nbsp; </FONT></P>

<P><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">Cheer,</FONT>
<BR><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">alex samson</FONT>
</P>

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 11:58:07 1998
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Subject: eec-iv high idle problem
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Lurker here...have a problem with ford ranger, 90ish, eec-iv, idle speed is
high.  Any reccs on what to check?

Thanks.

Ed Hilker aka "Chief"
'84 SS - 700R4, RPM Q-jet, duals, Flows, 2050 cam, rumpity rumpity rumpity...
http://nersp.nerdc.ufl.edu/~ehilker/


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 12:05:10 1998
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> From:          Self <Single-user mode>
> To:            diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:       Re: Invaluable resource--inexpensive good quality pcbs for proto
> Date:          Wed, 2 Sep 1998 07:19:49

> 
> > 
> > > Just a forward seems, reasonable.
> > > >I have no interest in Circuit Design except that they are still there
> > 
> > It's been more than 3 weeks and still waiting,
> > I would recommend advanced reservations.
> > Please do not tell too many, untill they expand. 
> > I did see a similiar place in Nuts Volts which I hope eases
> > the work load.  
> > My  first batch, the holes and cutting were not exactly close 
> > tolerance, but the board work, and for me easier and cheaper than
> > DIY.  Is any one intersested in a etching tank, exposure bulb 
> > and other materials?
> > Also who does photo transparency locally, Kinkos?
> > maybe less than $8
> > alex
> > 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 12:25:31 1998
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Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 11:25:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Injectors
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On Thu, 3 Sep 1998, Bruce Plecan wrote:

> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Thursday, September 03, 1998 9:57 AM
> Subject: Re: Injectors
> 
> 
> >Regardless of what is available, I believe that ALL injectors are nominally
> >rated at 3 bar fuel pressure delta from rail to manifold--44.07 psi.
> 
> Trouble is there is no "Standard".
> Great marketing ploy, raise the PSI a little and act like your selling
> a bigger injector.  Several aftermarket companies do that.  When
> buying injectors, be sure to get the PSI they are rated at!.
> Cheers
> Bruce
> >
> >Regards, Greg
> >
> >
> >>I don't think there is just a thing.  I know ord sells them as 30's and
> >>GM as 32's but I think that is mostly due to the difference in fuel rail
> >>pressure between th two manufactures...GM have a 45psi regulator and ford
> >>using 40psi.
> >>
> >>What regulator are you using and can you get what you need by going to a
> >>GM regulator or one of those adjustable units.
> >>later
> >>jw
> >>
> >>
> >>On Wed, 2 Sep 1998, Tom Sharpe wrote:
> >>


There is not standard from what I have also heard.  Injectors from Ford are
supposed to be rated at 39psi, injectors from Chevy at 45psi, no idea how
close these numbers are to what the really are.   I guess to be safe you
would have to buy one and run it in a test setup and see what they flow.

				Roger


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 13:47:48 1998
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From: Alex Samson <asamson@orausa.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re Injectors
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 10:47:03 -0700 
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The old D-jetronic injectors have HUGE pintle valves.  One can see the
big  difference by just one glance. Those injectors flow so much more
fuel than modern multi port injectors I can imagine a definite
enrichment that would result by installing those to a modern
application. Probably the analogy of installing a bank of Del-ought-tos.


Cheers,
alex samson

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<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">The old D-jetronic injectors have HUGE =
pintle valves.&nbsp; One can see the big&nbsp; difference by just one =
glance. Those injectors flow so much more fuel than modern multi port =
injectors I can imagine a definite enrichment that would result by =
installing those to a modern application. Probably the analogy of =
installing a bank of Del-ought-tos. </FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">Cheers,</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">alex samson</FONT>
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 14:24:06 1998
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From: Jason Weir <jason_weir@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: eec-iv high idle problem
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---Chief <afn14222@afn.org> wrote:
>
> 
> Lurker here...have a problem with ford ranger, 90ish, eec-iv, idle
speed is
> high.  Any reccs on what to check?
> 
> Thanks.


Check for a vacuum leak, I just fixed my wife's 91 F-150 that decided
it wanted to idle at 1600 rpm... it was the gasket between the upper
and lower intake manifolds..... Jason 
==
I am on vacation, please don't reply to Yahoo.com
either hit reply or send mail to jweir@worldnet.att.net
Having Fun Rafting the Kennebec river in West Forks, Maine
First 2000 mile road trip to test out the new TBI swap on the 88 Wrangler



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 16:59:38 1998
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From: "Andrew F. Gunnesch" <afgun@mongoose.dearborn.sgi.com>
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Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 16:59:20 -0400
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To: third-gen@f-body.org, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: it's dead, jim
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Well, my '89 GTA died today.  It won't start.  It cranks and cranks and
occasionally I'll get a spark to one or two cylinders, but not enough
to sustain combustion in order to drive it home.

I don't have any diagnosing information right now, as the car's at work
and am I, and all my tools and manuals are at home.  *sigh*

Wish me luck.  I hope it's not my ECM.

--andrew

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 17:13:55 1998
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I assume this is a GM??  From what I've heard and experienced GM has a 
little problem with ignition modules.  This is seperate from your ECM.  
Cost is about $200 from a dealer.
HTH
jw


On Thu, 3 Sep 1998, Andrew F. Gunnesch wrote:

> Well, my '89 GTA died today.  It won't start.  It cranks and cranks and
> occasionally I'll get a spark to one or two cylinders, but not enough
> to sustain combustion in order to drive it home.
> 
> I don't have any diagnosing information right now, as the car's at work
> and am I, and all my tools and manuals are at home.  *sigh*
> 
> Wish me luck.  I hope it's not my ECM.
> 
> --andrew
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 17:49:05 1998
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De antemano les pido disculpas por escribir en Espa=F1ol, ya que mi =
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 18:38:33 1998
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I was browsing at my local libary (the grocery store) and was reading
a magazine called Import Performance or something.  Had a report
on trying to fix up a Ford Probe. They put all the usual stuff on
headers, new aircleaner maybe a cam?  and sent computer to JET
for programming.  Interesting results, because all the stuff dropped
HP and Torque drastically especially at low and mid.
First time I saw a mag report drops or no change for there 
advertiser products.  They made several runs removing and changing
trying to figure out what happened they didn't.
In there attempts they reported on trying a device called ARC-2 which 
will adapt any airflow meter to any engine including MAP to MASS
and 0-5V to 5-0V and has provisions for changing A/F at various 
flows.
alex

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 18:38:47 1998
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Fuel vs airflow is a bathtub curve for non emission cars.
You want smooth idle, good fuel economy and high power.
Thus A/F is rich, lean, rich 
alex
> 
> What would an ideal plot of manifold vacuum versus injected fuel
> quantity look like? I am still on the job of tuning my Lucas mechanical
> injection - last night I measured the fuel curve and it seems a bit dodgy to
> me (although my opinion is not very qualified). At low vac the fuel
> delivery is high, and it drops very rapidly (and linearly) until it reaches
> about one third of its original quantity, and then it changes slope and
> linearly decreases until it gets to max vac. This means that about the first
> 10% of the total vac increase reduces the fuel quantity by about 66%
> and the last 90% of vac reduces it by 33% (the two parts of the graph
> are both linear of course because it relies on springs to derive the
> curve). Does this seem good/bad/otherwise to anybody who knows?
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 18:53:17 1998
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 I am not a satisfied customer of JET...  bought a custom chip from them.
Customer service was terrible and expertice questionable  (IMHO).

________________________________________________
  Kevin Vannorsdel     IBM Arm Electronics Development
    408-256-6492                Tie 276-6492     kv@us.ibm.com



owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu on 09/03/98 03:51:14 PM
Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc:
Subject: ARC-2


I was browsing at my local libary (the grocery store) and was reading
a magazine called Import Performance or something.  Had a report
on trying to fix up a Ford Probe. They put all the usual stuff on
headers, new aircleaner maybe a cam?  and sent computer to JET
for programming.  Interesting results, because all the stuff dropped
HP and Torque drastically especially at low and mid.
First time I saw a mag report drops or no change for there
advertiser products.  They made several runs removing and changing
trying to figure out what happened they didn't.
In there attempts they reported on trying a device called ARC-2 which
will adapt any airflow meter to any engine including MAP to MASS
and 0-5V to 5-0V and has provisions for changing A/F at various
flows.
alex



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 19:04:21 1998
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-----Original Message-----
From: xxalexx@ix.netcom.com <xxalexx@ix.netcom.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, September 03, 1998 6:55 PM
Subject: ARC-2


I was browsing at my local libary (the grocery store) and was reading
a magazine called Import Performance or something.  Had a report
on trying to fix up a Ford Probe.

First time I saw a mag report drops or no change for there
advertiser products.  They made several runs removing and changing trying to
figure out what happened they didn't.
In there attempts they reported on trying a device called ARC-2 which will
adapt any airflow meter to any engine including MAP to MASS and 0-5V to 5-0V
and has provisions for changing A/F at various flows.
alex


Circle Track + Racing Technology some time ago did a reveiw of
plug wires, including the Nology $400 set.  Ya never read such
mumdlygook for a final answer when they didn't work.

Also, can't hurt Jet's reputation about now.

Cheers
Bruce


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James Weiler wrote:

> I assume this is a GM??  From what I've heard and experienced GM has a
> little problem with ignition modules.  This is seperate from your ECM.
> Cost is about $200 from a dealer.
> HTH
> jw
>
> On Thu, 3 Sep 1998, Andrew F. Gunnesch wrote:
>
> > Well, my '89 GTA died today.  It won't start.  It cranks and cranks and
> > occasionally I'll get a spark to one or two cylinders, but not enough
> > to sustain combustion in order to drive it home.
> >
> > I don't have any diagnosing information right now, as the car's at work
> > and am I, and all my tools and manuals are at home.  *sigh*
> >
> > Wish me luck.  I hope it's not my ECM.
> >
> > --andrew
> >

I don't think it's the ECM.  It's likely to be the ignition
coil.

Carmine


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From: "Ross Myers" <ponty@axis.jeack.com.au>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: GM Cross Fire Injection For Sale
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 18:02:32 +1000
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>I have one of these also and they work good. You might want to consider
>upgrading the injectors to 2" bore (Holley, I think) for 350-383-400 CI. or
>use it as is on a 305-327-350. Just a thought. More is better.  Tom


Tom did you ever try opening up the intake runners a bit, you know how at
the end they are WAY smaller than the head ports.

Also the 'swirl' plates at the bottom of the top plate, are these a
restriction or an aid.

I like/hate my CFI, somedays it runs so good, but somedays I reckon it's
down at least 40Hp, I'm sure it must be a vac leak or the ECU has lost the
plot.

Regards

Ross


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 19:40:04 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: GM Cross Fire Injection For Sale
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-----Original Message-----
From: Ross Myers <ponty@axis.jeack.com.au>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, September 03, 1998 7:24 PM
Subject: Re: GM Cross Fire Injection For Sale


>>I have one of these also and they work good. You might want to consider
>>upgrading the injectors to 2" bore (Holley, I think) for 350-383-400 CI.
or
>>use it as is on a 305-327-350. Just a thought. More is better.  Tom
>
>
>Tom did you ever try opening up the intake runners a bit, you know how at
>the end they are WAY smaller than the head ports.
>
>Also the 'swirl' plates at the bottom of the top plate, are these a
>restriction or an aid.
>
>I like/hate my CFI, somedays it runs so good, but somedays I reckon it's
>down at least 40Hp, I'm sure it must be a vac leak or the ECU has lost the
>plot.

Rewire it to use the gm truck ecm 1227747, and use the programming 101
info..  Ran mine for years like that, really nice.
Vanes are mandatory.  If you do anything, grind the egr tunnel out
add 1/4" spacer for the upper lid.  Use injectors off a 87-91 SBC
TBI pickup.
Cheers
Bruce
>
>Regards
>
>Ross
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 20:32:18 1998
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> Date:          Thu, 3 Sep 1998 11:04:43 -0500 (CDT)
> From:          Mail Delivery Subsystem <MAILER-DAEMON@ix.netcom.com>
> To:            <xxalexx@ix.netcom.com>
> Subject:       Returned mail: Host unknown (Name server: efi332.eng.ohio-state: host not found)

> The original message was received at Thu, 3 Sep 1998 11:04:37 -0500 (CDT)
> from smap@localhost
> 
>    ----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
> <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state>
> 
>    ----- Transcript of session follows -----
> 550 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state>... Host unknown (Name server: efi332.eng.ohio-state: host not found)
> 
>    ----- Original message follows -----
> 

> 
> > > > > 3) H2 concentrations are about 1/2 CO concentrations, at all 
> > > > > mixtures.
> > > > > 
> > > > > CO can be detected using IR spectrometry, but H20 has an 
> > > > > overlapping range, so exhaust gas must be dried to get an 
> > > > > accurate reading. This is obviously impractical for a view as you 
> > > > > drive type guage.  
> > > > > 
> > > > Modern instrument gradeCO NDIR analyzers are not sensitive to water 
> > > > vapor, typically less than 0.1% of FS using a CO2 water bubbler.
> > > > They are not designed for watervapor to condense in the cell, this
> > > > will create noise of up to +-10% FS
> > > > If you have a CO meter that is senstive to water vapor the standard
> > > > practice is to use a calcium carbonate desicant, a correction formula
> > > > is in 40 CFR 86.
> > > > There are also FTIR analyzers in use which can use
> > > > software correction for most interference conditions.
> > > > I have also tried mass spectrometry but there is a huge CO2 
> > > > overlap, so you must use special cryo trapping.  Horibia
> > > > just came out with a commercial  MS  system, but I have not reviewed 
> > > > it.  For exhaust sample water elimination at least 2 filters or 
> > > > needed Balston makes several grades of coaelesing filters for 
> > > > automotive use.
> > > > > But the question is, is H2 spectrometry doable in this case?
> > > > >  
> > > > This method was standard practice for many moon's, probably
> > > > since 30's? I used a Baily combustable A/F meter untill 77 at Carter
> > > > Carb. we then went to 5 gas analysis and in 78 to Horibia A/F meter
> > > > for faster response.
> > > > The Bailey unit burned 100% H2 gas and has I recall was not very
> > > > good  above 14.7.  Handheld portable H2 are widely used in chemistry
> > > > industry for flammable gas safety. very sensitive, we could detect
> > > > H2 gas from can of soda.  I was looking into the sensors about 10 yrs
> > > > ago, the price varies alot, handhelds under $200?, I did remember 
> > > > finding just sensor for about $30 somewhere.
> > > > alex  
> 
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 21:58:08 1998
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Will these fit into a GM TPI manifold?  How about the  plugs and the coil
impedance?

Any thoughts?

AJL

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 22:18:11 1998
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Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 22:19:46 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <clare.snyder.on.ca@ibm.net>
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Carmine wrote:
> 
> James Weiler wrote:
> 
> > I assume this is a GM??  From what I've heard and experienced GM has a
> > little problem with ignition modules.  This is seperate from your ECM.
> > Cost is about $200 from a dealer.
> > HTH
> > jw
> >
> > On Thu, 3 Sep 1998, Andrew F. Gunnesch wrote:
> >
> > > Well, my '89 GTA died today.  It won't start.  It cranks and cranks and
> > > occasionally I'll get a spark to one or two cylinders, but not enough
> > > to sustain combustion in order to drive it home.
> > >
> > > I don't have any diagnosing information right now, as the car's at work
> > > and am I, and all my tools and manuals are at home.  *sigh*
> > >
> > > Wish me luck.  I hope it's not my ECM.
> > >
> > > --andrew
> > >
> 
> I don't think it's the ECM.  It's likely to be the ignition
> coil.
> 
> Carmine
With waste fire ignition, there has been some problems with the coils
burning through the module, particularly on engines that have exhibited
a miss. A bad plug wire puts the voltage WAY up, and since it has to go
somewhere, the module (mounted under the coil, and between the coil and
the engine "ground" ends up taking the arc - and dying in the process.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B

                 Looks like we've finally fixed it!!!
                I am still clare.snyder.on.ca@ibm.net
                 Snyder.on.ca is BACK ON THE NET!!!
        With any luck, I will be Clare@snyder.on.ca real soon!!!

                           Clare Snyder
                         Waterloo, Ontario

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 22:55:07 1998
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	 Thu, 3 Sep 1998 19:54:51 -0700
From: "David" <david@gardener.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: GM Cross Fire Injection For Sale
Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 21:56:59 -0500
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I am sorry.  It appears I missed a post about the GM Cross Fire Injection
for sale.

Who is selling it?  And how much?

Thanks,

David Edwards

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Ross Myers
> Sent: Thursday, September 03, 1998 3:03 AM
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: GM Cross Fire Injection For Sale
>
>
>
>
> >I have one of these also and they work good. You might want to consider
> >upgrading the injectors to 2" bore (Holley, I think) for
> 350-383-400 CI. or
> >use it as is on a 305-327-350. Just a thought. More is better.  Tom
>
>
> Tom did you ever try opening up the intake runners a bit, you know how at
> the end they are WAY smaller than the head ports.
>
> Also the 'swirl' plates at the bottom of the top plate, are these a
> restriction or an aid.
>
> I like/hate my CFI, somedays it runs so good, but somedays I reckon it's
> down at least 40Hp, I'm sure it must be a vac leak or the ECU has lost the
> plot.
>
> Regards
>
> Ross
>
>



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  3 22:56:22 1998
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Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 21:33:36 -0500
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xxalexx@ix.netcom.com wrote:
...snip....
> In there attempts they reported on trying a device called ARC-2 which
> will adapt any airflow meter to any engine including MAP to MASS
> and 0-5V to 5-0V and has provisions for changing A/F at various
> flows.
> alex

Check out; http://www.splitsec.com/electronics.htm

for more info on this...   Seems like a crutch to me though....

T.(snake oil? no thanks - I'll pass)

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  4 00:04:49 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: ARC-2
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-----Original Message-----
From: Terry <thartman@gte.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, September 03, 1998 11:52 PM
Subject: Re: ARC-2


>xxalexx@ix.netcom.com wrote:
>...snip....
>> In there attempts they reported on trying a device called ARC-2 which
>> will adapt any airflow meter to any engine including MAP to MASS
>> and 0-5V to 5-0V and has provisions for changing A/F at various
>> flows.
>> alex
>
>Check out; http://www.splitsec.com/electronics.htm
>
>for more info on this...   Seems like a crutch to me though....
>
>T.(snake oil? no thanks - I'll pass)
>
One metered dose, $500.  Geez, I'm way too cheap for that.
Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  4 00:29:32 1998
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On Thu, 3 Sep 1998 18:52:24 +1000 "Javier Calle" <jcalle@adinet.com.uy>
writes:

>De antemano les pido disculpas por escribir en Espa=F1ol, ya que mi =
>ingl=E9s es mejor para leer que para redactar. =BFEs posible 
>suscribirse =
>a la lista de discusi=F3n, a=FAn cuando se escriba en espa=F1ol? =20
>Por el otro lado quiero decirles que en el sitio de Uds.. he 
>encontrado =
>el mejor material sobre inyecci=F3n electr=F3nica de toda la WEB.
>Javier Calle=20

Hola, Javier Calle! Somos Ray y Mary Drouillard de Ferndale, Michigan en
los Estados Unidos.  Tenemos nuestro Jeep desde Mayo, 1997.  En Enero de
1998, ponemos inyeccion electronico de gas y le divertimos nuestro Jeep
mucho mas por eso. Ray y su Padre se hicieron esto proyecto su mismo con
la ayuda de Holley Projection y Jacobs Electronics.  Mary se habla
Espan~ol y es una Enfermera Pediatria.  Ray es un programodor de
computadores (se escriba software de negocios) y se estudio para ser un
enginero electrical y se fue a Lawrence Technological University. ?Donde
vive Usted? ?Cual es su occupacion?  Nuestro Jeep es un 1989 Grand
Wagoneer y es el carro lo mas favorito de Ray por cierto.

Mary Drouillard      

_____________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  4 01:49:41 1998
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Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 23:50:25 -0600
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Subject: Re: it's dead, jim
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Hey, folks.  Unless there's some mod's been done, this car is Dizzy! 
But still could be ignition module burned out by HV arcing.  Don't know
where you checked for spark, but if it's remote coil, check for spark
there first. Look for grey/white area along side of coil where spark
arcs to frame.  If no spark there, substitute test light (or test coil)
for coil.  To use light, need to jumper pink/pink and connect light
pink/white (dist side).  Just gotta eliminate possibilites one at a
time.

BTW, this module is somewhere around $35-40, if memory serves. 
Shannen 
Clare Snyder wrote:
> 
> Carmine wrote:
> >
> > James Weiler wrote:
> >
> > > I assume this is a GM??  From what I've heard and experienced GM has a
> > > little problem with ignition modules.  This is seperate from your ECM.
> > > Cost is about $200 from a dealer.
> > > HTH
> > > jw
> > >
> > > On Thu, 3 Sep 1998, Andrew F. Gunnesch wrote:
> > >
> > > > Well, my '89 GTA died today.  It won't start.  It cranks and cranks and
> > > > occasionally I'll get a spark to one or two cylinders, but not enough
> > > > to sustain combustion in order to drive it home.
> > > >
> > > > I don't have any diagnosing information right now, as the car's at work
> > > > and am I, and all my tools and manuals are at home.  *sigh*
> > > >
> > > > Wish me luck.  I hope it's not my ECM.
> > > >
> > > > --andrew
> > > >
> >
> > I don't think it's the ECM.  It's likely to be the ignition
> > coil.
> >
> > Carmine
> With waste fire ignition, there has been some problems with the coils
> burning through the module, particularly on engines that have exhibited
> a miss. A bad plug wire puts the voltage WAY up, and since it has to go
> somewhere, the module (mounted under the coil, and between the coil and
> the engine "ground" ends up taking the arc - and dying in the process.
> --
>                                _/\_
>                        --|-----([])-----|--
>                          S    0/  \0    B
> 
>                  Looks like we've finally fixed it!!!
>                 I am still clare.snyder.on.ca@ibm.net
>                  Snyder.on.ca is BACK ON THE NET!!!
>         With any luck, I will be Clare@snyder.on.ca real soon!!!
> 
>                            Clare Snyder
>                          Waterloo, Ontario

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  4 01:55:32 1998
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Lessee, knock box maintains 5v on sensor line.  Sensor produces a/c
voltage, so any change from 5v within reason means knox.  Mebbee test
lamp to battery positive and sensor line, in rapid on/off fashion will
give desired results.  It's what I'd try...12V seems high.
Shannen

Joe Boucher wrote:
> 
> I don't think my ESC module is working.  I was experiencing knocking, so I retarded my timing.  Then I thought, that ain't the way this is supposed to work.  So, I dug in the factory manual, and
> found some diagnostics.
> 
> I thought the system worked by grounding a wire from the ESC module through the knock sensor.  The one in the Suburban was new when I installed the engine.  The diagnostics said to disconnect
> the knock sensor and hook that wire "momentarily" to a 12 volt source while watching the timing mark.  Well, I tried both ways, 12 volt and grounding,  and didn't notice any difference in the
> timing.
> 
> There was voltage at the ECS module, so it is powered.
> 
> I forgot to hook the knock sensor up and the next day the check engine light came on.  I rehooked the wire up and started the engine and the light was out.  I was rushed and didn't use the ALDL
> to look for trouble codes.  I'm assuming the ECM somehow figured out the wire was disconnected, but how if the module isn't working?
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Joe (Looking for fly turds) Boucher
> '70 RS/SS Camaro  '81 TBI Suburban

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  4 04:06:32 1998
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Joe, I'm kinda booked, and I'll get around to further testing this weekend.
On the compression, my ear tells me that there are 3 even ones, and one weaker
one. Expierience sez it seemed to hit on all of them fine when it would 
run and it was of a mind to. I suspect that all the starting attempts 
and rough idling when it died may have bled own the lifters/chain tensioner???
  It is a pushrod engine, so the chances of it being rubber drivex
  seem rather remote.

Thanks..

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  4 09:44:32 1998
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Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1998 08:44:26 -0500
From: Joe Boucher <BoucherJC@lmtas.lmco.com>
Subject: Re: it's dead, jim
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>
>
> From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
> Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 23:50:25 -0600
> Subject: Re: it's dead, jim
>

The GM HEI distributor rotor has a problem with burning through the bottom of the rotor.  The spark then jumps down instead of across to the plug wire post.  Maybe the smaller distributor will do this
also.  I don't know which is on this car.

Joe Boucher
'70 RS/SS Camaro  '81 TBI Suburban


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  4 09:48:44 1998
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Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 08:47:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kevin Crain <kevin@warpten.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: GM Cross Fire Injection For Sale
In-Reply-To: <001a01bdd7af$aef0b0a0$7a682499@default>
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It's me, I have agreed to an offer already but will re-post if the deal
falls thru.  System works great, nearly got me a speeding ticket on the
way to work this morning!

-Kevin

On Thu, 3 Sep 1998, David wrote:

> I am sorry.  It appears I missed a post about the GM Cross Fire Injection
> for sale.
> 
> Who is selling it?  And how much?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> David Edwards
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> > [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Ross Myers
> > Sent: Thursday, September 03, 1998 3:03 AM
> > To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> > Subject: Re: GM Cross Fire Injection For Sale
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >I have one of these also and they work good. You might want to consider
> > >upgrading the injectors to 2" bore (Holley, I think) for
> > 350-383-400 CI. or
> > >use it as is on a 305-327-350. Just a thought. More is better.  Tom
> >
> >
> > Tom did you ever try opening up the intake runners a bit, you know how at
> > the end they are WAY smaller than the head ports.
> >
> > Also the 'swirl' plates at the bottom of the top plate, are these a
> > restriction or an aid.
> >
> > I like/hate my CFI, somedays it runs so good, but somedays I reckon it's
> > down at least 40Hp, I'm sure it must be a vac leak or the ECU has lost the
> > plot.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Ross
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  4 09:50:00 1998
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From: Joe Boucher <BoucherJC@lmtas.lmco.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V3 #412
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>
>
> From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
> Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 23:56:16 -0600
> Subject: Re: ESC diagnostic
>
> Lessee, knock box maintains 5v on sensor line.  Sensor produces a/c
> voltage, so any change from 5v within reason means knox.  Mebbee test
> lamp to battery positive and sensor line, in rapid on/off fashion will
> give desired results.  It's what I'd try...12V seems high.
> Shannen
>

Yes, this is a GM and the one on my Suburban.

Well, guess I'll try setting up the test again and instead of just making a contact, I'll see how fast I can move my hand and make and break the contact to the battery while holding the timing light
with my other hand.

How's that for a mechanical solution to a 555 circuit?

Joe (Primitive) Boucher
'70 RS/SS Camaro  '81 TBI Suburban


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  4 10:31:58 1998
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I have several different versions of the 93 chip.  I also have several
version of my on chip (done by a tuner) that I know what was changed.

I found several of the tables and was able to determine what some of
it is.

I found a table 1x17 that should be the closed->open loop throttle
tables.  It has values starting at 70% (hex) up to 4000 rpm or so, and 
then slowly decreases to about 20% at high rpms.  I think this table
has steps of 500 rpm.  250 or 300 rpm would not give the table enough
range to even cover my cars stock operating area.  How high to the
gm tables generally go?  I am guessing since the computers are used in 
alot of different vehicles that it going to 8000 would not be odd, since
some of their other vehicles (which may use the same computer) may
get to some of those higher rpms.  Also where does the rpm start 0 or
the first value (500)?

I also found a table 16 rows x 17 columns.  I am guessing this is the 
part throttle table.  This table was identical on all of the aftermakert
chips and the stock GM chip I had (not my stock gm chip).  It was 
different on my custom chip (not a suprise I have bigger injectors). By
the length of 17 I am guessing the rpm step is 500, and the 16 is the
number of cells (diacom references 16 regions for the computer to be in).
Does anyone know what conditions that are used to decide which of 
the 16 cells are used?  This is a MAP car (no MAF).  I am guessing
that to check all the cells I may need to fabricate a throttle stop
to allow me to easily set the car in 1 region, or at least the same
sets of regions through a run.

I also found a table that I know is the WOT table.  I had the tuner
reduce my low end fuel, and found those reductions.  This table is 
1 row by more than 17 values (I don't know how many values), and since
the reductions are up to 17 (and we were not reducing high end) that
the step side is les than 500 (300 maybe, or 250?).

I also found another table that my car has changes of about the right
magnitude to adjust for bigger injectors.  This table is I belive 
somewhere around 1x16 or so, would this be the idle enrichment table?
Does idle use the part throttle cells above or does idle have its own
table.  By what diacom seems to say it looks like idle uses the part
throttle tables to govern it, which would make this the idle enrichment
table.

Some other questions.  What will the idle rpm/idle rpm in gear look 
like, I am assuming something like rpm/25 so it will fit in 1 hex
location.   I may be rpm/50 though.  The revlimiter is set to 6700 
so that would require it to be rpm/50 since rpm/25 >256, would that
mean that any rpms represented in the talbes would probably be
rpm/50 and not rpm/25?  I am going to have to try looking for
references to these locations in the code and try to figure out
how they are indexed.

				Roger Heflin
				93 Z28


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  4 10:38:12 1998
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> I am sorry.  It appears I missed a post about the GM Cross Fire Injection
> for sale.
> 
> Who is selling it?  And how much?
> 
> David Edwards

too late, i've already told him i'm buying it.

-jake



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  4 10:47:32 1998
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From: Mike Pitts <mpitts@netspeak.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Reversing the '8625
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 10:45:43 -0400 
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Hi all,
 
I've started the process of reversing the cal from an '8625 TBI PCM.  
This is from a '93 4.3L CPI "W" engine code Olds Bravada (same as 
Blazer, etc).  The PCM also controls the 4L60E transmission.  This 
same PCM is also used on some 5.7L TBI trucks of the '93-'94 time 
frame.
 
I've sent the file to a couple of list elders already, but thought that I 
should let the general list know in case someone else is interested 
whom I don't know about.
 
At any time you may find the reversed cal at:
http://www.emi.net/~mpitts/Bbnt.asm
 
I will update this file periodically as I make progress, which will no 
doubt be slow since I am *not* very good with assembler level code.  
I am sure this will be littered with bugs, but it's all that I have.  If 
you find any in the code I would want to know about, please let 
me know.  I can be reached at: mailto:mpitts@emi.net
 
The ultimate goal is to find the transmission, fueling and spark 
parameters so I can turbocharge the engine and alter the shifting 
characteristics.  This may be of interest to those who would want 
to add a supercharger to this engine as well.
 
Thanks,
-Mike
 

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  4 11:46:44 1998
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V3 #412 + CSH Diagnostic aid
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-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Boucher <BoucherJC@lmtas.lmco.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, September 04, 1998 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V3 #412


>> From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
>> Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 23:56:16 -0600
>> Subject: Re: ESC diagnostic
>> Lessee, knock box maintains 5v on sensor line.  Sensor produces a/c
voltage, so any change from 5v within reason means knox.  Mebbee test  lamp
to battery positive and sensor line, in rapid on/off fashion will  give
desired results.  It's what I'd try...12V seems high.
>> Shannen
>Yes, this is a GM and the one on my Suburban.
>Well, guess I'll try setting up the test again and instead of just making a
contact, I'll see how fast I can move my hand and make and break the contact
to the battery while holding the timing light
>with my other hand.
>How's that for a mechanical solution to a 555 circuit?

OK, for testing Distributor pick-up coils whatsa do?.  How about
holding your weller soldering gun right over it, and see if ya get
a spark.  Works best remote coil..
Cheers
Bruce    Doc likes running the above tests, cheaper than going to
              someone who knows what their doing for his electro-
              shock therapy
>
>Joe (Primitive) Boucher
>'70 RS/SS Camaro  '81 TBI Suburban
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  4 12:17:44 1998
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cybergate.net>
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Subject: Re:  Fuel Curves
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Those old Lucas FI systems were completely non-low emissions and ran rich at
low speeds.  You may need just a little tweeking to lean out the high vacuum
part of the curve.  Maybe a slightly softer second spring, or a different
angle on the ramp in that range.
Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>




>Hello,
>
>What would an ideal plot of manifold vacuum versus injected fuel
>quantity look like? I am still on the job of tuning my Lucas mechanical
>injection - last night I measured the fuel curve and it seems a bit dodgy
to
>me (although my opinion is not very qualified). At low vac the fuel
>delivery is high, and it drops very rapidly (and linearly) until it reaches
>about one third of its original quantity, and then it changes slope and
>linearly decreases until it gets to max vac. This means that about the
first
>10% of the total vac increase reduces the fuel quantity by about 66%
>and the last 90% of vac reduces it by 33% (the two parts of the graph
>are both linear of course because it relies on springs to derive the
>curve). Does this seem good/bad/otherwise to anybody who knows?
>
>Any comments gratefully recieved.
>
>Regards
>
>Bruce Robertson
>Lucas injected Bond Equipe Sufferer - New Zealand


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  4 14:56:13 1998
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Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1998 12:56:52 -0600
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Joe Boucher wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> > From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
> > Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 23:56:16 -0600
> > Subject: Re: ESC diagnostic
> >
> > Lessee, knock box maintains 5v on sensor line.  Sensor produces a/c
> > voltage, so any change from 5v within reason means knox.  Mebbee test
> > lamp to battery positive and sensor line, in rapid on/off fashion will
> > give desired results.  It's what I'd try...12V seems high.
> > Shannen
> >
> 
> Yes, this is a GM and the one on my Suburban.
> 
> Well, guess I'll try setting up the test again and instead of just making a contact, I'll see how fast I can move my hand and make and break the contact to the battery while holding the timing light
> with my other hand.
> 
> How's that for a mechanical solution to a 555 circuit?
> 
> Joe (Primitive) Boucher
> '70 RS/SS Camaro  '81 TBI Suburban

Just remember not to set the circuit timing so as to cause cramps.
Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  4 16:08:29 1998
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Does someone interested to exchange informations about Original Eprom
Images for European Cars and/or informations for addresses to the function
inside the same Eprom ?

My database is more than 1300 cars and I would like to have more
informations about the BOSCH Motronic series.

Thanks for Your attention.

Fabrizio Palumbo
EFI Technologies

http://www.axa.it/ame


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  4 16:24:17 1998
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Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1998 15:24:04 -0500
From: Dave Stinar <kahn@means.net>
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Subject: switching over carb to fi on ford 302.
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I'm currently rebuilding a boat that has a 302 ford engine is it.
What my question to all of you is, should I look at scavenging parts for
the FI off of a car or should I take a look at those after market kits?

The boating season will be gone here in MN before I'll even get a chance
to drop it in the water, so time is of no mater, I'm looking at factors
like: Price, Reliability, and ease of finding replacement parts.

Any help from you guys would be greatly appreciated.
Dave

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  4 17:35:11 1998
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Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 14:35:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mike Macpherson <mike760@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Motronic 0261 200 XXX EPROM 
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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---fpalumbo@rtmol.it wrote:
>
> At 14.02 01/09/98 -0700, you wrote:
> >Does nayone have a copy of an eprom from any BMW with lambdasond, and
> >bosch number:
> > 0 261 200 XXX if anyone does, could they please send it as an
atached
> >file to  
> >
> >    <Volvo764ti@aol.com>
> >
> >cheers
> >mike
> >_________________________________________________________
> >DO YOU YAHOO!?
> >Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> 
> Hi Mike, I have lot of eprom which the same number, please can You
specify
> which type of car do You need ?
> 
> Best Regards.
> 
> Fabrizio Palumbo
> EFI Technologies
> 
> http://www.axa.it/ame
> E-Mail : ame@axa.it

Basicly any one which which has 0261 200 XXX and was equiped with
lambdasond, i have a volvo 760 turbo which is 0261 200 012, it has
circuitry for an O2 sensor, because the boxes are all pretty much
identical, the idea is to take the part of the map assosiated with
lambdasond, so that the box will respond to the O2 sensor, whether it
will work or not i dont know, if you could send me a file from any
0261 200 box from a car with lambdasond i would be very very greatful.

cheers
mike

please reply to Volvo764ti@aol.com


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  4 18:24:07 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: switching over carb to fi on ford 302.
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 18:26:17 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Stinar <kahn@means.net>
Subject: switching over carb to fi on ford 302.


>I'm currently rebuilding a boat that has a 302 ford engine is it.
>What my question to all of you is, should I look at scavenging parts for
the FI off of a car or should I take a look at those after market kits?

Got paddles, aftermarket, OK.
I have yet to see a aftermarket offer a 50,000 mile warranty.
I'd suggest using a version of ecm used in the engine compartment,
if possible.
Simpler means more compromises
For more money they get consumer friendlier
If you want to use a laptop, and min your time investment the aftermarket is
a consideration.
A replacement ecm can run 4-500 dolars for aftermarket.  A
oem version, can be had for $50.
Down side is the Ford boxes aren't too well cracked for the DIYer.
So means running chevy, if ya want to say money.
Lots of things to think about.
Bruce
>
>The boating season will be gone here in MN before I'll even get a chance
>to drop it in the water, so time is of no mater, I'm looking at factors
>like: Price, Reliability, and ease of finding replacement parts.
>
>Any help from you guys would be greatly appreciated.
>Dave
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  4 20:31:11 1998
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Date: Fri, 04 Sep 1998 17:36:43 -0700
From: Matt Bossard <mbossard@bigfoot.com>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, mpitts@emi.net
Subject: Re: Reversing the '8625
References: <19980905000417.16254.rocketmail@send1e.yahoomail.com>
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Mike, I am very interested in your project.  I am also planning to reverse the
cal from a PCM out of a '95 TBI 5.7L truck.    The number on the the PCM was
not printed very well, but it looks like 0764700.   I wonder if this cal prom
will turn out to be similar to yours?

Did you start off with any knowledge of the contents of the prom to begin
with?  What has been your basic plan of attack?

Thanks for posting the link to the data.   I will be eager to see the progress
you make.

Thanks,
-Matt

> Hi all,
>
> I've started the process of reversing the cal from an '8625 TBI PCM.
> This is from a '93 4.3L CPI "W" engine code Olds Bravada (same as
> Blazer, etc).  The PCM also controls the 4L60E transmission.  This
> same PCM is also used on some 5.7L TBI trucks of the '93-'94 time
> frame.
>
> I've sent the file to a couple of list elders already, but thought that I
> should let the general list know in case someone else is interested
> whom I don't know about.
>
> At any time you may find the reversed cal at:
> http://www.emi.net/~mpitts/Bbnt.asm
>
> I will update this file periodically as I make progress, which will no
> doubt be slow since I am *not* very good with assembler level code.
> I am sure this will be littered with bugs, but it's all that I have.  If
> you find any in the code I would want to know about, please let
> me know.  I can be reached at: mailto:mpitts@emi.net
>
> The ultimate goal is to find the transmission, fueling and spark
> parameters so I can turbocharge the engine and alter the shifting
> characteristics.  This may be of interest to those who would want
> to add a supercharger to this engine as well.
>
> Thanks,
> -Mike




From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  4 22:24:26 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: switching over carb to fi on ford 302.
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>I'm currently rebuilding a boat that has a 302 ford engine is it.
>What my question to all of you is, should I look at scavenging parts for
>the FI off of a car or should I take a look at those after market kits?
>
>The boating season will be gone here in MN before I'll even get a chance
>to drop it in the water, so time is of no mater, I'm looking at factors
>like: Price, Reliability, and ease of finding replacement parts.
>
>Any help from you guys would be greatly appreciated.
>Dave

Hi Dave,

I have a buddy who has a seriously built 351 W which is without a current
home. It was always a carb motor, but likely could be converted to FI as
easily as a 302. But my thought was that just the 351 with a Holley might
well get you more for less, particularly if the 302 is stock and/or a bit
tired. Let me know if you want me to pursue it for you.

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  4 23:38:36 1998
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Message-ID: <35ED272B.23279F25@candw.lc>
Date: Wed, 02 Sep 1998 07:08:29 -0400
From: Martin Powlette <marquise@candw.lc>
Organization: Auto Service & Repairs Ltd.
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Subject: Synthetic Oil
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I am interested in a synthetic oil which brand is a better choice and
what are retail prices like ???  Here we pay almost $10 US per qt
Castrol Syntec.
Can you guys suggest bulk locations in the Miami area??
How good is Amsoil ??

Many thanks,
Martin


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep  5 01:24:05 1998
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From: "Gene" <jtvette@ww-interlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Reversing the '8625
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 1998 17:22:04 -0400
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mike have you thought that you may be reinventing the wheel gm has already
done this turbo thing to a 4.4 v6 blazer
-------- its called  a typhoon (blazer)  or syclone (s-10 pick-up)   why not
use their pcm
gene jones
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Pitts <mpitts@netspeak.com>
To: 'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, September 04, 1998 11:18 AM
Subject: Reversing the '8625


>Hi all,
>
>I've started the process of reversing the cal from an '8625 TBI PCM.
>This is from a '93 4.3L CPI "W" engine code Olds Bravada (same as
>Blazer, etc). The PCM also controls the 4L60E transmission. This
>same PCM is also used on some 5.7L TBI trucks of the '93-'94 time
>frame.
>
>I've sent the file to a couple of list elders already, but thought that I
>should let the general list know in case someone else is interested
>whom I don't know about.
>
>At any time you may find the reversed cal at:
>http://www.emi.net/~mpitts/Bbnt.asm
>
>I will update this file periodically as I make progress, which will no
>doubt be slow since I am *not* very good with assembler level code.
>I am sure this will be littered with bugs, but it's all that I have. If
>you find any in the code I would want to know about, please let
>me know. I can be reached at: mailto:mpitts@emi.net
>
>The ultimate goal is to find the transmission, fueling and spark
>parameters so I can turbocharge the engine and alter the shifting
>characteristics. This may be of interest to those who would want
>to add a supercharger to this engine as well.
>
>Thanks,
>-Mike
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep  5 02:20:16 1998
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Subject: Re: Reversing the '8625
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Hi Mike and all

Before someone gets serious bout this thing
can someone confirm the BBNT cal as being for
the 8625 PCM????

I have it as a cal for the
 16156930 ECM

Of course could be wrong

:peter

At 10:45 AM 9/4/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi all,
> 
>I've started the process of reversing the cal from an '8625 TBI PCM.  
>This is from a '93 4.3L CPI "W" engine code Olds Bravada (same as 
>Blazer, etc).  The PCM also controls the 4L60E transmission.  This 
>same PCM is also used on some 5.7L TBI trucks of the '93-'94 time 
>frame.
> 
>I've sent the file to a couple of list elders already, but thought that I 
>should let the general list know in case someone else is interested 
>whom I don't know about.
> 
>At any time you may find the reversed cal at:
>http://www.emi.net/~mpitts/Bbnt.asm
> 
>I will update this file periodically as I make progress, which will no 
>doubt be slow since I am *not* very good with assembler level code.  
>I am sure this will be littered with bugs, but it's all that I have.  If 
>you find any in the code I would want to know about, please let 
>me know.  I can be reached at: mailto:mpitts@emi.net
> 
>The ultimate goal is to find the transmission, fueling and spark 
>parameters so I can turbocharge the engine and alter the shifting 
>characteristics.  This may be of interest to those who would want 
>to add a supercharger to this engine as well.
> 
>Thanks,
>-Mike
> 
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep  5 03:04:50 1998
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Date: Sat, 05 Sep 1998 01:05:30 -0600
From: ShannenDurphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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Martin Powlette wrote:

> I am interested in a synthetic oil which brand is a better choice and
> what are retail prices like ???  Here we pay almost $10 US per qt
> Castrol Syntec.
> Can you guys suggest bulk locations in the Miami area??
> How good is Amsoil ??
>
> Many thanks,
> Martin

Not going to recommend brands, but I use Mobil One and the local bulk
distributors are selling it for $3.52/qt bottle.  Was in Wal-mart the
other day, 5qt bottle of the stuff costs $15.
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep  5 07:01:31 1998
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Try (lightly) hitting the block with hammer ner the sensor with engine idling on some systems  it will cause the idle speed to hunt.

Joe Boucher wrote:

> I don't think my ESC module is working.  I was experiencing knocking, so I retarded my timing.  Then I thought, that ain't the way this is supposed to work.  So, I dug in the factory manual, and
> found some diagnostics.
>
> I thought the system worked by grounding a wire from the ESC module through the knock sensor.  The one in the Suburban was new when I installed the engine.  The diagnostics said to disconnect
> the knock sensor and hook that wire "momentarily" to a 12 volt source while watching the timing mark.  Well, I tried both ways, 12 volt and grounding,  and didn't notice any difference in the
> timing.
>
> There was voltage at the ECS module, so it is powered.
>
> I forgot to hook the knock sensor up and the next day the check engine light came on.  I rehooked the wire up and started the engine and the light was out.  I was rushed and didn't use the ALDL
> to look for trouble codes.  I'm assuming the ECM somehow figured out the wire was disconnected, but how if the module isn't working?
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Joe (Looking for fly turds) Boucher
> '70 RS/SS Camaro  '81 TBI Suburban
>


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Mobile1 is the best but the price here in the UK it is 29UKP for 4 litres.


ShannenDurphey wrote:

> Martin Powlette wrote:
>
> > I am interested in a synthetic oil which brand is a better choice and
> > what are retail prices like ???  Here we pay almost $10 US per qt
> > Castrol Syntec.
> > Can you guys suggest bulk locations in the Miami area??
> > How good is Amsoil ??
> >
> > Many thanks,
> > Martin
>
> Not going to recommend brands, but I use Mobil One and the local bulk
> distributors are selling it for $3.52/qt bottle.  Was in Wal-mart the
> other day, 5qt bottle of the stuff costs $15.
> Shannen
>


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From: "Mike Pitts" <mpitts@mail.emi.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Reversing the '8625
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1998 11:05:31 -0400
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>>can someone confirm the BBNT cal as being for
>>the 8625 PCM

I can confirm it because I read the numbers right off the 
PCM and the mempak themselves.  I can pull the PCM 
box again and send a digital photo if you would like to 
see it (there were other numbers on the stickers too). 
The '8625 number was listed as the "service number".

BBNT is on the quartz window sticker, it's inkjet printed 
on the blue plastic portion of the mempak, and it's also 
part of some codes on the barcode stickers attached to 
the PCM.

>>I have it as a cal for the 16156930 ECM

Since you brought this up, what I would like to know is, 
are these two boxes interchangable?

Too bad they don't have the cal designation embedded 
in the EPROM in ASCII format...or maybe they do.

-Mike
==========================================
Mike Pitts
Delray Beach, FL
mpitts@emi.net
http://www.emi.net/~mpitts/mike.htm
==========================================



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep  5 11:21:46 1998
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Date: Sat, 05 Sep 1998 09:22:26 -0600
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Subject: Re: Reversing the '8625
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Nope.  BCC of BBNT/9734 fits 1993 s/t trucks, cpi. fed emissions,
16156930ecm which was superceded to 16197427.
Sounds like you have my kind of luck.  That's the only 1993 4.3W
application which does not use the 8625 ECM.
BTW, I show that the 16168625 ecm is superceded to part no. 16196395.

Shannen

peter paul fenske wrote:
> 
> Hi Mike and all
> 
> Before someone gets serious bout this thing
> can someone confirm the BBNT cal as being for
> the 8625 PCM????
> 
> I have it as a cal for the
>  16156930 ECM
> 
> Of course could be wrong
> 
> :peter
> 
> At 10:45 AM 9/4/98 -0400, you wrote:
> >Hi all,
> >
> >I've started the process of reversing the cal from an '8625 TBI PCM.
> >This is from a '93 4.3L CPI "W" engine code Olds Bravada (same as
> >Blazer, etc).  The PCM also controls the 4L60E transmission.  This
> >same PCM is also used on some 5.7L TBI trucks of the '93-'94 time
> >frame.
> >
> >I've sent the file to a couple of list elders already, but thought that I
> >should let the general list know in case someone else is interested
> >whom I don't know about.
> >
> >At any time you may find the reversed cal at:
> >http://www.emi.net/~mpitts/Bbnt.asm
> >
> >I will update this file periodically as I make progress, which will no
> >doubt be slow since I am *not* very good with assembler level code.
> >I am sure this will be littered with bugs, but it's all that I have.  If
> >you find any in the code I would want to know about, please let
> >me know.  I can be reached at: mailto:mpitts@emi.net
> >
> >The ultimate goal is to find the transmission, fueling and spark
> >parameters so I can turbocharge the engine and alter the shifting
> >characteristics.  This may be of interest to those who would want
> >to add a supercharger to this engine as well.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >-Mike
> >
> >
> >

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep  5 12:11:40 1998
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Mike-
can you give me the four numbers that go with the letters?  The GM
service software uses  the letter/number combination to give info. 
Possibly, there are two with same letters, different numbers.  

BTW, There must be something strange going on here, as I've checked two
different sources and come up with the same ECM#.  I'm sure you already
know that the service # is the one to check.  Possibly someone stuffed a
used pcm into your Bravada?

Just as a note, I've seen Olds cars come from the factory with the wrong
proms installed.  They were really good for that when they were making
the 3.0l carb'ed v-6.  The ecm and prom would be "wrong" for the car,
and they didn't match each other, either.  Yet the car ran fine, no
complaints. Haven't seen it too much with EFI, maybe a couple of times
with 2.8 proms in 3.1 cars, but I suspected the customers in those
cases.

Shannen

Mike Pitts wrote:
> 
> >>can someone confirm the BBNT cal as being for
> >>the 8625 PCM
> 
> I can confirm it because I read the numbers right off the
> PCM and the mempak themselves.  I can pull the PCM
> box again and send a digital photo if you would like to
> see it (there were other numbers on the stickers too).
> The '8625 number was listed as the "service number".
> 
> BBNT is on the quartz window sticker, it's inkjet printed
> on the blue plastic portion of the mempak, and it's also
> part of some codes on the barcode stickers attached to
> the PCM.
> 
> >>I have it as a cal for the 16156930 ECM
> 
> Since you brought this up, what I would like to know is,
> are these two boxes interchangable?
> 
> Too bad they don't have the cal designation embedded
> in the EPROM in ASCII format...or maybe they do.
> 
> -Mike
> ==========================================
> Mike Pitts
> Delray Beach, FL
> mpitts@emi.net
> http://www.emi.net/~mpitts/mike.htm
> ==========================================

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep  5 12:23:29 1998
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From: "Francois Dion" <francois@hyperreal.org>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>, <toyota-mods@cyberauto.com>
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1998 12:25:08 -0400
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> De : Martin Powlette <marquise@candw.lc>
> I am interested in a synthetic oil which brand is a better choice and
> what are retail prices like ???  Here we pay almost $10 US per qt
> Castrol Syntec.

That is highway robbery! A 5 quart container of Mobil 1 15w50 full
synthetic is $15 at walmart while a box with 6 one quart
is around $22. Syntec prices were similar except they dont have
the 5 quart bottle.

Ciao,
Francois Dion (francois@hyperreal.org)
--
Member: FLU #1722, PCNA
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/zagato/101/launch.html
Alfa Romeo, Fiat, Lancia, Peugeot, Volvo, Solex


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep  5 13:15:10 1998
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From: Adrian Teo <adrian.teo@asu.edu>
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil
In-reply-to: Francois Dion <francois@hyperreal.org>
 <"Re: Synthetic Oil"@asu.edu> (Sep 5, 12:25)
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On Sep 5, 12:25, Francois Dion wrote:

> That is highway robbery! A 5 quart container of Mobil 1 15w50 full
> synthetic is $15 at walmart while a box with 6 one quart
> is around $22. Syntec prices were similar except they dont have
> the 5 quart bottle.

Actually, that is the situation elsewhere in the world. We (in the US) pay one
of the lowest prices for motor oil, gas or similar petroleum products.

Average price of synthetic motor oil (M1, Shell Helix Ultra) in Asia : US$30
Average price of premium gas: $3.50-$4/gal

-AT

-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Adrian Teo                               e-mail: adrian.teo@asu.edu
System Administator                              
Instruction Support, Arizona State University                           
Ph: 602.965.9411                         
Fx: 602.965.2724     Pg:602.204.1831     e-page: adrian@falcon.asu.edu
------------------------------------------------------------------------

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep  5 13:43:30 1998
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everywhere else they tax the hell out of gas and oil....the cost of
production/pumping is less there than here, what with the EPA and all....

We just won't as a nation tolerate excessive taxes on petroleum products...we
need it to support the american lifestyle....GENE
-- 


                                ____________
Fun under the sun in          //~~~~~~~~~~~~\\
Jacksonville, Fl.  :-)))     //______________\\
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 Shift better with   |\ \\[  ]    |mrvette|   [  ]// /|
     Automatics      | \/+========================+\/ |
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                     |_____|                    |_____|
-------------------------------------------------------------------

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep  5 14:33:54 1998
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From: "Mike Pitts" <mpitts@mail.emi.net>
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Subject: Re: Reversing the '8625
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1998 14:33:21 -0400
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Okay, pulled the PCM again <phew>.  These trucks are 
somewhat rare, compared to the Blazers, so it's possible 
they use a different PCM.  This truck is also all-wheel-drive, 
and has the towing package option, so that may have a 
been a factor in PCM choice as well.

The sticker on the EPROM reads:

DELCO
4892
2303

I thought it had BBNT on the EPROM sticker but it didn't.  It 
*does* have BBNT printed on the outside of the blue mempak 
cover however, in the following format:

       DELCO
BBNT     9734

FWIW: The ESC filter board in the mempak has 1192307.

The labels on the outside of the PCM read:
----------------------------------------------
SERV. NO. 16168625     BBNT
{BARCODE}
*86BBNTK223160167*
----------------------------------------------
16179571               BBNT
{BARCODE}
*86BBNTK223160167*
----------------------------------------------

The PCM is the usual size with one red and one blue 
connector on the end.  Both connectors have 2 rows of 
16 pins each.

I *highly* doubt the PCM has been replaced at any time. 
I have all the service records (even the oil change receipts). 
And there is no sign that it was ever removed before I 
got my grubby little hands on it.  :)

Looking in through the access cover, the main board has 
"177A183  P5" etched on it.  Maybe this is a P5 PCM? <jk>

Regardless of whether it's wierd, it's the one it uses and 
therefore, the one I will be using.  With y'all's help, I've been 
making a fair amount of progress!

Thanks!
-Mike
==========================================
Mike Pitts
Delray Beach, FL
mpitts@emi.net
http://www.emi.net/~mpitts/mike.htm
==========================================



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep  5 15:38:22 1998
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From: "Gwyn Reedy" <mgr@mgrcorp.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: GM Cross Fire Injection For Sale
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1998 15:27:34 -0400
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I saw a later post saying you had accepted an offer and since I never got a
response to my message to you, I presume it was someone else.  If that deal
falls through, contact me please.

Gwyn Reedy
Brandon, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Crain <kevin@warpten.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Saturday, August 29, 1998 6:13 PM
Subject: GM Cross Fire Injection For Sale


>Swapping a TPI system into my 1982 Chevy Camaro Z-28, the factory Cross
>Fire Injection system is up for sale.  This is a dual-TBI system, intake
>designed such that each TBI feeds the opposite cylinder bank on a V-8.
>Long runners, lotsa low-end grunt.
>
>This is a complete system, including the factory ECM (stock and Hypertech
>chips), Electronic Spark Control module, distributor, engine
>compartment wiring harness, in-tank fuel pump, TBIs, intake manifold for
>small-block Chevy, air filter housing, and all sensors and relays.  It
>works great, is currently pushing my Z to/from work daily.  Will pull the
>top plate and TBIs so as to leave them balanced, ready to bolt up and run.
>
>Throwing in two brand-new GM rebuild kits for the TBIs, bought last year
>when I was prepping to do a Bruce Plecan hop-up on it, cost me $35 each.
>System will be available for shipment Sep 18th.  Asking $200 US or best
>offer.
>
>-Kevin Crain
>-Knoxville, TN
>


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From: "Stowe, Ted-SEA" <StowT@PerkinsCoie.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: L-Jetronic or LH-Jetronic for 77 mgb ? & ford tempo throtle body
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1998 13:53:55 -0700 
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howdy. I was recently forwarded a good article on putting a L-jetronic from
a renault fuego into a mgb from Dave Chu (thanks). and I was wondering if
anyone knew the merits of using a LH-Jetronic vs the L, the hot-wire system
in the LH appeals to me. however it does use a lamda or O2 sensor, (the L
does not), and I have read somewhere in the archives that the LH, idles very
lean, which is something I hear and see that the mgb is extremely happy
with. I believe but I'm not sure that the stock cam is still in the engine.


also, would anyone have or know of where I can get a ford tempo throttle
body ?
the one in the article has the fuel regulator build into it and according to
the article , works in any position, which sounds pretty neat, but it
doesn't state the year of car it came out of. the article came from england,
and what they call a ford tempo there might be a lot different here, or not
here at all.

or does anyone know of an easy to obtain (in the US), throttle body & intake
hardware, plenum ?
for a 1800cc size motor? if it has a bosch throttle positioning switch that
would be real nice.

thanks, Ted.

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep  5 17:03:51 1998
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Date: Sat, 05 Sep 1998 15:04:29 -0600
From: ShannenDurphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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Well, the calibration letters/numbers match up to what I have.  But with
BBNT on the ECM sticker, there is no doubt in my mind that the chip/pcm
are a factory original combo.  It's very possible that the dealer's
parts listing shows the same replacement pcm for both numbers.  The way
they change #'s is incredible.  

I have a pcm from a 93? pickup, 350/4l80e.  I'll have to check the BCC
in that against my references.  BTW, how did you read the eprom?

Shannen

Mike Pitts wrote:
> 
> Okay, pulled the PCM again <phew>.  These trucks are
> somewhat rare, compared to the Blazers, so it's possible
> they use a different PCM.  This truck is also all-wheel-drive,
> and has the towing package option, so that may have a
> been a factor in PCM choice as well.
> 
> The sticker on the EPROM reads:
> 
> DELCO
> 4892
> 2303
> 
> I thought it had BBNT on the EPROM sticker but it didn't.  It
> *does* have BBNT printed on the outside of the blue mempak
> cover however, in the following format:
> 
>        DELCO
> BBNT     9734
> 
> FWIW: The ESC filter board in the mempak has 1192307.
> 
> The labels on the outside of the PCM read:
> ----------------------------------------------
> SERV. NO. 16168625     BBNT
> {BARCODE}
> *86BBNTK223160167*
> ----------------------------------------------
> 16179571               BBNT
> {BARCODE}
> *86BBNTK223160167*
> ----------------------------------------------
> 
> The PCM is the usual size with one red and one blue
> connector on the end.  Both connectors have 2 rows of
> 16 pins each.
> 
> I *highly* doubt the PCM has been replaced at any time.
> I have all the service records (even the oil change receipts).
> And there is no sign that it was ever removed before I
> got my grubby little hands on it.  :)
> 
> Looking in through the access cover, the main board has
> "177A183  P5" etched on it.  Maybe this is a P5 PCM? <jk>
> 
> Regardless of whether it's wierd, it's the one it uses and
> therefore, the one I will be using.  With y'all's help, I've been
> making a fair amount of progress!
> 
> Thanks!
> -Mike
> ==========================================
> Mike Pitts
> Delray Beach, FL
> mpitts@emi.net
> http://www.emi.net/~mpitts/mike.htm
> ==========================================

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep  5 18:02:12 1998
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Date: Sat, 5 Sep 1998 18:05:49 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
From: Jim Lill <jpl@vectorbd.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: L-Jetronic or LH-Jetronic for 77 mgb ? & ford tempo throtle body
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On Sat, 5 Sep 1998, Stowe, Ted-SEA wrote:

> I was recently forwarded a good article on putting a L-jetronic from a
> renault fuego into a mgb from Dave Chu (thanks). and I was wondering if
> anyone knew the merits of using a LH-Jetronic vs the L, the hot-wire
> system in the LH appeals to me. however it does use a lamda or O2
> sensor, (the L does not)

I'd go with something *with* lambda. Downside is the need for unleaded,
upside is the closed loop will trim the mixture in.

L-Jet does not have lambda
LU-Jet is same w/lambda

Models of the AMC (Renault) Alliance had LU-Jet
Various Fiat had L-Jet w/lambda
BMW 318i up to 85 had LU-Jet

I'd think that the 318i would be an easy plug-n-play. I don't think
there's many LH-Jet systems for that small of motor.

Keep in mind that none of these, L, LU, LH, have uP based computers.
There'll all full analog.

The parts to make the L(U) don't all have to come from the 318i, you could
use pieces from the others I listed. The Peugeot ZDJL motor (2165cc) used
LU-Jet and was pretty low performance so it could be a source too. Nissan,
Subaru, and Toyota all used used L-Jet variants at some point too.

Probst's and Watson's books are good places to look.  


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep  5 22:43:06 1998
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Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1998 12:43:01 +1000 (EST)
From: Benjamin Marsh <bmarsh@turing.une.edu.au>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: L-Jetronic Air-flow sensor
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Hi All

Just wondering - The L-jet, being a common efi system does that mean I 
can remove the restrictive air-flow sensor from my subaru and replace it 
with a higher flowing nissan or toyota one from a model using L-jet 
without confusing the computer at all. Also if my computer were to die, 
could I just plug in a computer from a similar L-jet toyota???

Regards,

Ben Marsh

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep  5 23:17:33 1998
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No.

Benjamin Marsh wrote:
> 
> Hi All
> 
> Just wondering - The L-jet, being a common efi system does that mean I
> can remove the restrictive air-flow sensor from my subaru and replace it
> with a higher flowing nissan or toyota one from a model using L-jet
> without confusing the computer at all. Also if my computer were to die,
> could I just plug in a computer from a similar L-jet toyota???



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep  5 23:24:35 1998
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Date: Sat, 05 Sep 1998 21:25:12 -0600
From: ShannenDurphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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If posting a request for a GM broadcast code ID, it sure makes life
easier if you can include the four numbers from the eprom/calpack.  Some
of the newer cal's will have an 8 digit part no. (4 + 4) rather than a
BCC, but the BCC should be on the outside of the control no.

Thanks,
Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep  5 23:32:57 1998
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From: Jon <jona@earthworld.com>
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I've got my 5 liter eec4 controller running pretty good on my 3.5
olds/rover, but I have a few loose ends to clean up. I would say that it
runs as well as the 400 Carter, starts easier, and is probably a lot
cleaner. I've not been to the strip yet, I'll have to wait until spring.
1.  how does the controller use the VSS information?
2.  how is the NDS (neutral drive switch) connect to the controller
(from an A/T Crown Vic)? I measure 12 volts on the NDS wire (#30), I'm
tempted to ground it (use #46 SIG RET or chassis ground???) but I don't
want to lose another controller. I already cooked one and my u pull it
yards have no more. I get code 67 and I'd like to make the controller
happy, since so little seems to be known about how it works.
3.  Is there a way to force the controller into open loop at other than
WOT? But maybe I should be happy if I see the ~1 Hz seeking from the O2
sensor, assuming that the controller is dealing with my engine alright.
TVR Jon

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  6 00:38:04 1998
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From: "Zack" <zubenubi@inetport.com>
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Subject: Re: L-Jetronic Air-flow sensor
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Ben,

How are they less restrictive?  If you're talking about flapper door 
type airflow meters, the ones with the higher total measurement 
capacity are actually slightly more restrictive due greater tension 
in the clock spring.
	And anyway, the answer is no.  The internals of the flapper door 
meters on Japanese cars I know of (Mazda) are specific to the model 
of car, and may even differ among different models of the same car 
(i.e., turbo vs. non-turbo), so that the ECU will not be able to 
properly assess airflow if you plug an AFM which is not matched to 
the ECU.  On Mazda's in particular the first letter and three digits 
of the AFM part number match the ECU part code.  

Z


> Hi All
> 
> Just wondering - The L-jet, being a common efi system does that mean I 
> can remove the restrictive air-flow sensor from my subaru and replace it 
> with a higher flowing nissan or toyota one from a model using L-jet 
> without confusing the computer at all. Also if my computer were to die, 
> could I just plug in a computer from a similar L-jet toyota???
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Ben Marsh
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  6 03:40:13 1998
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From: "Jake Lindeke" <jlindeke@bsfh.org>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: L-Jetronic Air-flow sensor
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1998 03:39:45 -0400
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Accually this is not all true, yes there are many cases where the meter can
not be swaped, such as the 87-92 supra turbo and 86-92 supra Na but the mr-2
turbo meter will work on the 86-92 supra na or the other way around. also
the lexus V8(SE400 for example) meter will work on a 87-92 Supra turbo with
550cc injectors installed as well. so there are many cases where you can
swap the meters, but a better way around the ristriction problem is an HKS
VPC (vein pressure converter) they come programed for certin cars but can be
made to work on other cars the VPC removes the meter completly and takes
other info from the engine to 'guess' on what the reading should be there is
a small console that is mounted on the dash somewhere and is used to tune
the vpc.

I run a mr-2 turbo VPC on my non turbo supra. for racing all i have is a
valisity stack connected to my trottle body too keep the air flow smooth.
really confuses some people to see it like that.

also the spring on the meter can be adjusted to have less tension. on toyota
meters there is a large gear and a peace of metal hoilding it from turning
all you do is hold the metal back and turn the gear, this will add or remove
tension as you need. it really effects the proformance of the car.

--jake
>Ben,
>
>How are they less restrictive?  If you're talking about flapper door
>type airflow meters, the ones with the higher total measurement
>capacity are actually slightly more restrictive due greater tension
>in the clock spring.
>And anyway, the answer is no.  The internals of the flapper door
>meters on Japanese cars I know of (Mazda) are specific to the model
>of car, and may even differ among different models of the same car
>(i.e., turbo vs. non-turbo), so that the ECU will not be able to
>properly assess airflow if you plug an AFM which is not matched to
>the ECU.  On Mazda's in particular the first letter and three digits
>of the AFM part number match the ECU part code.
>
>Z
>> Hi All
>>
>> Just wondering - The L-jet, being a common efi system does that mean I
>> can remove the restrictive air-flow sensor from my subaru and replace it
>> with a higher flowing nissan or toyota one from a model using L-jet
>> without confusing the computer at all. Also if my computer were to die,
>> could I just plug in a computer from a similar L-jet toyota???
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Ben Marsh




From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  6 10:40:22 1998
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From: "Zack" <zubenubi@inetport.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1998 09:48:57 -0600
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Subject: Re: L-Jetronic Air-flow sensor
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> but a better way around the ristriction problem is an HKS
> VPC (vein pressure converter) they come programed for certin cars but can be
> made to work on other cars

Sounds like this VPC is basically a speed-density to air-flow 
convertor?  How much do they typically cost?  It seems like if you 
started with a suitable number of RPM / Manifold pressure / Air flow 
meter data points, this would be a very productive area for DIY 
fiddling.  

> 
> also the spring on the meter can be adjusted to have less tension. 

Yeah, I've cracked mine open before and had a look, the problem is I 
already know that my flow meter is maxing out before I reach peak 
power, so doing that for now is OK, but ultimately if I start making 
internal mods to my car's engine I need a better system with more 
measurement capacity to go along with bigger injectors.

Z

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  6 10:46:44 1998
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Hello all.  

I am new to the list and wanted to know if there was already a FAQ
somewhere that I could read.  I am interested in monitoring the various
sensors on my engine with a long term goal of replacing or modifing the
current ECU.  I would like to feed the sensor input into a notebook PC.  I
would imagine that other people on this list have already accomplished this
task and I would like to find out how the sensors are interfaced to the PC.  


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  6 11:03:51 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Does anyone have any clues about what made the Analog Devices
OP-496, so special other than being rail to rail?.

How about a clue about what Newark Electronics would carry,
that would be rare or so much easier to get than from someone else.

Cheers
Bruce         Doc's holding me hostage till I get some more info
                   on the above, or info that got with held on ION.  


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  6 11:45:58 1998
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Subject: Re: L-Jetronic Air-flow sensor
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-----Original Message-----
From: Zack <zubenubi@inetport.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, September 06, 1998 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: L-Jetronic Air-flow sensor


> but a better way around the ristriction problem is an HKS
> VPC (vein pressure converter) they come programed for certin cars but can
be
> made to work on other cars

Sounds like this VPC is basically a speed-density to air-flow
convertor?

Yep.

 How much do they typically cost?

$150-$500

  It seems like if you
started with a suitable number of RPM / Manifold pressure / Air flow
meter data points, this would be a very productive area for DIY
fiddling.

Been done here several times, but noone has shared the results.
MAP sensor-RPM input-Air Temp, feed to PIC/Stamp, send
to ecm.  Keeping it all analog seems thou that the following
would be easier.
To be totally universal, ecm input would need to be freq/voltage,
and range selectable.
Cheers
Bruce

>
> also the spring on the meter can be adjusted to have less tension.

Yeah, I've cracked mine open before and had a look, the problem is I
already know that my flow meter is maxing out before I reach peak
power, so doing that for now is OK, but ultimately if I start making
internal mods to my car's engine I need a better system with more
measurement capacity to go along with bigger injectors.

Z



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  6 11:46:55 1998
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Date: Thu, 3 Sep 1998 19:37:27 +0100
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Chris Morriss <crsm@oroboros.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Fuel Curves
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In message <s5eec1c7.082@MAIL.TAIT.CO.NZ>, Bruce Robertson <bruce_robert
son@MAIL.TAIT.CO.NZ> writes
>Hello,
>
>What would an ideal plot of manifold vacuum versus injected fuel
>quantity look like? I am still on the job of tuning my Lucas mechanical
>injection - last night I measured the fuel curve and it seems a bit dodgy to
>me (although my opinion is not very qualified). At low vac the fuel
>delivery is high, and it drops very rapidly (and linearly) until it reaches
>about one third of its original quantity, and then it changes slope and
>linearly decreases until it gets to max vac. This means that about the first
>10% of the total vac increase reduces the fuel quantity by about 66%
>and the last 90% of vac reduces it by 33% (the two parts of the graph
>are both linear of course because it relies on springs to derive the
>curve). Does this seem good/bad/otherwise to anybody who knows?
>
>Any comments gratefully recieved.
>
>Regards
>
>Bruce Robertson
>Lucas injected Bond Equipe Sufferer - New Zealand
>
I had a look at various published fuel curves for MAP systems when I did
my original analogue unit.  Most show a fairly linear increase in fuel
delivered per revolution up to about a MAP of 0.8 bar (or thereabouts)
as the MAP rises at WOT towards 1 bar, then the fuel delivery rate
increases a bit to get max power out of the engine.  Your measured break
point seems to be in the wrong place!

Does the Lucas mechanical system give a squirt every crank rev?  I used
to have a Mk2 Bond Equipe with the standard 2 litre engine.  It's now a
Moss kit-car.


-- 
Chris Morriss

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  6 11:48:39 1998
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Subject: GTA lives again
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Thanks for everyone's input on getting my GTA back on the road.
A refresher:

1989 TransAm GTA
5.7L TPI, MAF, '165 ECM

A couple of weeks ago I had retimed it.  A few days later it started getting
an intermittant miss/cut out on the road.  It would happen a few times per
day on my trips.  I meant to get to it this weekend...

Thursday at work the car got worse.  It refused to start after a little bit.
I had no time, so left it there for a couple of days.

Yesterday I went out to diagnose it.  Had I had a diacom or scan tool, it
would have been trivial, but...

anyways, after following a number of tests, I decided that the ECM wasn't
getting reference signals from the distributor, so the fuel injectors
weren't pulsing.  I took the 4-wire connector off of the distributor,
cleaned it and pinched down all of the connectors, hooked it back up, and
the car runs flawlessly again.

Apparently I had disloged the connector ever so slightly, or stretched one
of the wires, causing the intermittent no reference pulse symptom.  Now as
to why the speedometer would jump up, I have no idea...

Anyways, it's running great again.  I'm sorry to the Michigan guys that I
wasn't able to make the M3 event.  I was really looking forward to meeting
everybody.

For the DIY_EFI guys, if someone offers custom chip tuning for a '165 ECM,
please contact me offline, as there are some changes that I NEED to make
to mine to get rid of my detonation.

And if anybody has a set of 24 lb/hour injectors that DO NOT LEAK, I'm also
interested.

Thanks for "listening"

--andrew

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  6 12:00:12 1998
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Date: Sun, 06 Sep 1998 11:00:19 -0500
From: Steve Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
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It has a extended temp range and low noise chip .

Steve

Bruce Plecan wrote:

> Does anyone have any clues about what made the Analog Devices
> OP-496, so special other than being rail to rail?.
>
> How about a clue about what Newark Electronics would carry,
> that would be rare or so much easier to get than from someone else.
>
> Cheers
> Bruce         Doc's holding me hostage till I get some more info
>                    on the above, or info that got with held on ION.




From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  6 21:26:28 1998
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From: "Jake Lindeke" <jlindeke@bsfh.org>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: L-Jetronic Air-flow sensor
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1998 21:26:09 -0400
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>
>Sounds like this VPC is basically a speed-density to air-flow
>convertor?
>
>Yep.
>
> How much do they typically cost?
>
>$150-$500


I wish, mine was $720
If you could make one for around that range you should go into busness. and
certinley possable.

there is a large market for thins kind of thing for japanese proformance
cars, not sure about domestics.
--jake


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  6 21:28:20 1998
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From: "Jake Lindeke" <jlindeke@bsfh.org>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: L-Jetronic Air-flow sensor
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 1998 21:28:06 -0400
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what kind of car is this?
and what other modifications have been done?
--jake

Yeah, I've cracked mine open before and had a look, the problem is I 
already know that my flow meter is maxing out before I reach peak 
power, so doing that for now is OK, but ultimately if I start making 
internal mods to my car's engine I need a better system with more 
measurement capacity to go along with bigger injectors.

Z



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  6 22:32:16 1998
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To those people that have removed the cover from their l jet air flow meter. 

 The "circiut board" seems to have some tuneing resistors.  These are spaced
along the 1/2 moon wiper resistor and seem to be laser cut to give the air
meter the proper output curve.


When useing a larger air meter, how about useing  a few 10 turn pots to
replace the stock fixed tuneing resistors?  Something like this:  reduce the
low flow voltage output to match the stock meter, but allow the voltage to max
out when the vane is wide open. 
Or tune the larger AFM to match the flow = voltage of the smaller AFM then use
a extra injector to supply fuel once the computer is maxed out.  Re: wide open
small AFM = 3/4 open large AFM, extra fuel from spare injector when large AFM
is wide open.
 
Also it may be possible to alter a stock AFM so the mixture is leaned or
ritchened at various parts of the fuel curve.  

The most difficult part may be attaching the wires the the board.  It seems to
be  ceramic with film resistors "painted" on.  Soldering may not work,
drilling and useing small bolts might work it the creamic won't break.  A
final last ditch effort may be to use small coil springs on a plate to contact
the resistors.

Reprogramming the ECM would be a whole lot easier if the locations are known.
This would be for the weird un known cars.

I'd have to sit down and test/graph this stuff to see if it will work,  These
are just a few ideas that have been floating around.  Any thoughts?

Harold

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  7 00:19:44 1998
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From: "Zack" <zubenubi@inetport.com>
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Jake,

It's a 1987 Mazda RX-7.  Only mod's so far are headers, a decent 
exhaust, and a cone-filter type intake. 

Z


> From:          "Jake Lindeke" <jlindeke@bsfh.org>
> To:            <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Subject:       Re: L-Jetronic Air-flow sensor
> Date:          Sun, 6 Sep 1998 21:28:06 -0400
> Reply-to:      diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

> what kind of car is this?
> and what other modifications have been done?
> --jake
> 
> Yeah, I've cracked mine open before and had a look, the problem is I 
> already know that my flow meter is maxing out before I reach peak 
> power, so doing that for now is OK, but ultimately if I start making 
> internal mods to my car's engine I need a better system with more 
> measurement capacity to go along with bigger injectors.
> 
> Z
> 
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  7 01:10:24 1998
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Date: Sun, 06 Sep 1998 23:10:57 -0600
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Quinton McCombs wrote:
> 
> Hello all.
> 
> I am new to the list and wanted to know if there was already a FAQ
> somewhere that I could read.  I am interested in monitoring the various
> sensors on my engine with a long term goal of replacing or modifing the
> current ECU.  I would like to feed the sensor input into a notebook PC.  I
> would imagine that other people on this list have already accomplished this
> task and I would like to find out how the sensors are interfaced to the PC.

Hello, Quinton.

Sorry, but this list has no FAQ, although it has been discussed several
times, and would certainly be a great help to some of the
lurkers/newbies.  Generally people just post their questions then wait
to see what develops.

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  7 01:36:08 1998
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Date: Sun, 06 Sep 1998 22:39:31 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: Misc Questions
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I may have missed an earlier post (or just not read it yet), why do you ask?

Sandy

At 11:06 AM 9/6/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Does anyone have any clues about what made the Analog Devices
>OP-496, so special other than being rail to rail?.
>
>How about a clue about what Newark Electronics would carry,
>that would be rare or so much easier to get than from someone else.
>
>Cheers
>Bruce         Doc's holding me hostage till I get some more info
>                   on the above, or info that got with held on ION.  
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  7 01:42:38 1998
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Date: Sun, 06 Sep 1998 23:43:13 -0600
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Hee hee.  Too many times this type of thing happens.  Makes working on
some cars like open heart surgery.  You know, don't touch anything
except what you absolutely have to.
Glad to hear it's up and running.

Shannen
Andrew F. Gunnesch wrote:
> 
> Thanks for everyone's input on getting my GTA back on the road.
> A refresher:
> 
> 1989 TransAm GTA
> 5.7L TPI, MAF, '165 ECM
> 
> A couple of weeks ago I had retimed it.  A few days later it started getting
> an intermittant miss/cut out on the road.  It would happen a few times per
> day on my trips.  I meant to get to it this weekend...
> 
> Thursday at work the car got worse.  It refused to start after a little bit.
> I had no time, so left it there for a couple of days.
> 
> Yesterday I went out to diagnose it.  Had I had a diacom or scan tool, it
> would have been trivial, but...
> 
> anyways, after following a number of tests, I decided that the ECM wasn't
> getting reference signals from the distributor, so the fuel injectors
> weren't pulsing.  I took the 4-wire connector off of the distributor,
> cleaned it and pinched down all of the connectors, hooked it back up, and
> the car runs flawlessly again.
> 
> Apparently I had disloged the connector ever so slightly, or stretched one
> of the wires, causing the intermittent no reference pulse symptom.  Now as
> to why the speedometer would jump up, I have no idea...
> 
> Anyways, it's running great again.  I'm sorry to the Michigan guys that I
> wasn't able to make the M3 event.  I was really looking forward to meeting
> everybody.
> 
> For the DIY_EFI guys, if someone offers custom chip tuning for a '165 ECM,
> please contact me offline, as there are some changes that I NEED to make
> to mine to get rid of my detonation.
> 
> And if anybody has a set of 24 lb/hour injectors that DO NOT LEAK, I'm also
> interested.
> 
> Thanks for "listening"
> 
> --andrew

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  7 02:00:51 1998
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Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 14:07:59 +1000 (EST)
From: Benjamin Marsh <bmarsh@turing.une.edu.au>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: L-Jetronic Air-flow sensor
In-Reply-To: <007101bdd9fe$d6404a20$010200c0@dragon>
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The car is a 1987 Subaru RX Turbo MPFI I have been told that it is an 
L-jetronic system but every web site dedicated to this that has a afm pic 
it looks nothing like mine - my afm has Fuji cast marks on it. On the 
filter side it is square in cross section and the engine side it is round 
with a flap thing on the inside. I don't have the expertise to convert my 
computer to a MAP type input but think the afm design could be a little 
better I was also hoping for a round air filter side on the afm so I 
could attach a ram-pod type air filter and axe the standard filter box

Is the Subaru system a L-jet or is it a fuji designed system?

Thanks for your help

Ben

On Sun, 6 Sep 1998, Jake Lindeke wrote:

> what kind of car is this?
> and what other modifications have been done?
> --jake
> 
> Yeah, I've cracked mine open before and had a look, the problem is I 
> already know that my flow meter is maxing out before I reach peak 
> power, so doing that for now is OK, but ultimately if I start making 
> internal mods to my car's engine I need a better system with more 
> measurement capacity to go along with bigger injectors.
> 
> Z
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  7 09:09:43 1998
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From: "Ross Myers" <ponty@axis.jeack.com.au>
To: "EFI List" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: VATS Info
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 22:52:40 +1000
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Hi All,

Does anybody have any Bin's or Info on how to bypass the VATS on an 88 TPI
motor. It all comes about after a customer at work did an engine swap on his
84 Vette.

Any info appreciated.

Regards

Ross Myers



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  7 10:05:25 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Hi

Does anybody on the list regarding the Bosch Motronic 1.5 system as 
used in the Opel Kadett.

Any help will be appreciated.

Georg


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  7 10:56:14 1998
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There's some stuff in the archives about bypassing vats.  I'm curious,
what part of an engine swap would make it necessary to bypass VATS?
Shannen

Ross Myers wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Does anybody have any Bin's or Info on how to bypass the VATS on an 88 TPI
> motor. It all comes about after a customer at work did an engine swap on his
> 84 Vette.
> 
> Any info appreciated.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Ross Myers

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  7 11:04:01 1998
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Easiest way is to build a 30 Hz circuit and apply it to the vats input
terminal (not sure which one is on a Vette though). Otherwise, custom
chip time... Don't see why you also couldn't use a 87-8 F-bod chip which
doesn't have VATS... I think the 88 Vette uses a '165 ECM... I don't
think the f-bod line had it across the board until 89. Only f-bod BIN's
I have are 89's with VATS.
HTH's
Tom

Ross Myers wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Does anybody have any Bin's or Info on how to bypass the VATS on an 88 TPI
> motor. It all comes about after a customer at work did an engine swap on his
> 84 Vette.
> 
> Any info appreciated.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Ross Myers

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  7 11:07:06 1998
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Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 11:10:49 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
From: Jim Lill <jpl@vectorbd.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Bosch
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On Mon, 7 Sep 1998, Georg Lerm wrote:
> 
> Does anybody on the list regarding the Bosch Motronic 1.5 system as 
> used in the Opel Kadett.
> 

I can't help Georg, but if anyone does have any links to Bosch info, let
me know and I'll add them to:

http://www.vectorbd.com/peugeot/bosch.html



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Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 12:02:10 -0400
From: Thomas Matthews <tmatthew@stny.lrun.com>
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Subject: Re: VATS Info
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If you didn't want to cough up $40 for the lock and keys, and GM$ 100
for the module... 
Tom


Shannen Durphey wrote:
> 
> There's some stuff in the archives about bypassing vats.  I'm curious,
> what part of an engine swap would make it necessary to bypass VATS?
> Shannen
> 
> Ross Myers wrote:
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > Does anybody have any Bin's or Info on how to bypass the VATS on an 88 TPI
> > motor. It all comes about after a customer at work did an engine swap on his
> > 84 Vette.
> >
> > Any info appreciated.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Ross Myers

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  7 13:34:12 1998
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From: "Mike Pitts" <mpitts@mail.emi.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Tweaker musings
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 13:33:42 -0400
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Whislt browsing the archives I ran across the following from April '98.
(Before I joined the list)

>>Has anyone seen this Tweaker software...
>>if he has any plans of creating a tweaker for GM TBI/TPI?? 

The very belated answer to this is: I will probably create a version for 
the '93 CPI engine using an '8625 processor.  It may work for other 
TBI/CPI versions as well.  Time will tell.  This won't happen for quite 
awhile though since I've yet to reverse the code.  So far I've isolated 
the tables, but I don't know what the tables represent yet.

Ultimately, I would like to create a version that will operate the 
Intronics EPROM emulator directly.  <*sigh*>  Such high hopes...
so little time....

-Mike
==========================================
Mike Pitts
Delray Beach, FL
mpitts@emi.net
http://www.emi.net/~mpitts/mike.htm
==========================================



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  7 16:22:22 1998
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Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 14:22:53 -0600
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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Subject: Re: VATS Info
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Gotcha.  Dumb question, really.  Message said 84 'Vette, I read 89
Vette.  Good thing I'm not in encryption!
Shannen

Thomas Matthews wrote:
> 
> If you didn't want to cough up $40 for the lock and keys, and GM$ 100
> for the module...
> Tom
> 
> Shannen Durphey wrote:
> >
> > There's some stuff in the archives about bypassing vats.  I'm curious,
> > what part of an engine swap would make it necessary to bypass VATS?
> > Shannen
> >
> > Ross Myers wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi All,
> > >
> > > Does anybody have any Bin's or Info on how to bypass the VATS on an 88 TPI
> > > motor. It all comes about after a customer at work did an engine swap on his
> > > 84 Vette.
> > >
> > > Any info appreciated.
> > >
> > > Regards
> > >
> > > Ross Myers

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  7 16:46:49 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: VATS Info
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 13:45:03 -0700
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Try C014 (0014 in Eprom) #10
0001 0000
 Clear that bit. See if that works.

-----Original Message-----
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, September 07, 1998 1:39 PM
Subject: Re: VATS Info


>Gotcha.  Dumb question, really.  Message said 84 'Vette, I read 89
>Vette.  Good thing I'm not in encryption!
>Shannen
>
>Thomas Matthews wrote:
>>
>> If you didn't want to cough up $40 for the lock and keys, and GM$ 100
>> for the module...
>> Tom
>>
>> Shannen Durphey wrote:
>> >
>> > There's some stuff in the archives about bypassing vats.  I'm curious,
>> > what part of an engine swap would make it necessary to bypass VATS?
>> > Shannen
>> >
>> > Ross Myers wrote:
>> > >
>> > > Hi All,
>> > >
>> > > Does anybody have any Bin's or Info on how to bypass the VATS on an
88 TPI
>> > > motor. It all comes about after a customer at work did an engine swap
on his
>> > > 84 Vette.
>> > >
>> > > Any info appreciated.
>> > >
>> > > Regards
>> > >
>> > > Ross Myers
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  7 16:51:35 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: VATS Info
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 16:54:34 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, September 07, 1998 4:40 PM
Subject: Re: VATS Info

Send me a copy of the bin, I'll see what I can do
Cheers
Bruce       nacelp@bright.net


>Gotcha.  Dumb question, really.  Message said 84 'Vette, I read 89
>Vette.  Good thing I'm not in encryption!
>Shannen
>
>Thomas Matthews wrote:
>>
>> If you didn't want to cough up $40 for the lock and keys, and GM$ 100
>> for the module...
>> Tom
>>
>> Shannen Durphey wrote:
>> >
>> > There's some stuff in the archives about bypassing vats.  I'm curious,
>> > what part of an engine swap would make it necessary to bypass VATS?
>> > Shannen
>> >
>> > Ross Myers wrote:
>> > >
>> > > Hi All,
>> > >
>> > > Does anybody have any Bin's or Info on how to bypass the VATS on an
88 TPI
>> > > motor. It all comes about after a customer at work did an engine swap
on his
>> > > 84 Vette.
>> > >
>> > > Any info appreciated.
>> > >
>> > > Regards
>> > >
>> > > Ross Myers
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  7 22:02:00 1998
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Date: Sun, 06 Sep 1998 18:33:43 -0400
From: Martin Powlette <marquise@candw.lc>
Organization: Auto Service & Repairs Ltd.
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Subject: Code 42
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It me again and my luck with TBI 5.7 V8's . I checked the ignition
timing and set it to O TDC by specs, but there is code 42, ignition
wiring or faulty ign.module. If I clear the code it comes back as soon
as you start up and idle for even two minutes.  What do you guys think
?? The pick up coil 9K, leads,cap and rotor are ok  One other thing it
stalls right after hard braking or sudden slow down especially down
hill. Can I adjust the idle speed off the tamper proof plug??
Any quick tests.  What about the ign. coil??

Martin


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  7 22:39:39 1998
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From: "Ross Myers" <ponty@axis.jeack.com.au>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: VATS Info
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 12:37:32 +1000
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>Try C014 (0014 in Eprom) #10
>0001 0000
> Clear that bit. See if that works.

The value at Hex 14 is B4???

Regards

Ross



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  7 22:40:25 1998
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From: "Ross Myers" <ponty@axis.jeack.com.au>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: VATS Info
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 12:38:21 +1000
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>Easiest way is to build a 30 Hz circuit and apply it to the vats input
>terminal (not sure which one is on a Vette though). Otherwise, custom
>chip time... Don't see why you also couldn't use a 87-8 F-bod chip which
>doesn't have VATS... I think the 88 Vette uses a '165 ECM... I don't
>think the f-bod line had it across the board until 89. Only f-bod BIN's
>I have are 89's with VATS.
>HTH's
>Tom


I'd much rather do it in the PROM.

Regards

Ross Myers


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  7 23:23:22 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: VATS Info
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 1998 20:21:38 -0700
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yeh, so try changing it to A4!

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Ross Myers <ponty@axis.jeack.com.au>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, September 07, 1998 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: VATS Info


>
>
>>Try C014 (0014 in Eprom) #10
>>0001 0000
>> Clear that bit. See if that works.
>
>The value at Hex 14 is B4???
>
>Regards
>
>Ross
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  8 00:18:32 1998
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From: "Mike Pitts" <mpitts@mail.emi.net>
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Subject: Calling all gurus
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 00:17:55 -0400
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Hi all,

I'm to a point where I could use a wee bit of help.  First of all,=20
my mathmatical skills are weak, especially when it comes=20
to coefficients and lag filters.  (I never took calc).  Anyway,=20
I have a routine that I think is a lag filter, but it's different enough =

from the '7148 code that I'm not sure.  At a minumum, it's doing=20
a bit more than the '7148 version.

If anyone would care to explain the theory of lag filters/coefficients=20
to me, as well as tell me what the following routine does, I'd be=20
MUCH obliged.  BTW: I'll bet this same routine is in 90% of the=20
modern P4 ECUs.

You'll need a monospaced font for this

;**********************************************************
;*
;* Lag Filter Subroutine??
;*
;* Input example:
;* =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
;* LDAA $00A0 - Sometimes an A/D value
;* LDAB #$80  - Coefficient?
;* LDX  $0315 - The 16-bit storage of the filtered value?
;* LDY  #$5925- ???
;*
;* Result:
;* =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
;* 16-bit word in Accumulator D
;*
;**********************************************************

F047    3C          PSHX                ; Store X
F048    30          TSX                 ; X =3D (SP) + 1
F049    A3 00       SUBD        $00,x   ; D =3D D - X[0]
F04B    37          PSHB                ; store B
F04C    E6 00 25    LDAB        $00,y   ; B =3D Y[0]
F04F    25 03       BLO         $F054   ; if D < 0 goto $F054

F051    3D          MUL                 ; D =3D A * B
F052    20 04       BRA         $F058   ; goto $F058

F054    3D          MUL                 ; D =3D A * B
F055    A0 00 E3    SUBA        $00,y   ; A =3D A - Y[0]

F058    E3 00       ADDD        $00,x   ; D =3D D + X[0]
F05A    ED 00       STD         $00,x   ; X[0] =3D D
F05C    32          PULA                ; get A from stack (was B)
F05D    E6 00 3D    LDAB        $00,y   ; B =3D Y[0]
F060    3D          MUL                 ; D =3D A * B
F061    A9 01       ADCA        $01,x   ; A =3D A + X[1] + carry
F063    16          TAB                 ; B =3D A
F064    A6 00       LDAA        $00,x   ; A =3D X[0]
F066    89 00       ADCA        #$00    ; A =3D A + carry
F068    38          PULX                ; restore X
F069    39          RTS                 ; return

Thanks!!
-Mike
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Mike Pitts
Delray Beach, FL
mpitts@emi.net
http://www.emi.net/~mpitts/mike.htm
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D


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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2922.0"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Hi all,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I'm to a point where I could use a wee bit of help.&nbsp; First of =
all,=20
</DIV>
<DIV>my mathmatical skills are weak, especially when it comes </DIV>
<DIV>to coefficients and lag filters.&nbsp; (I never took calc).&nbsp; =
Anyway,=20
</DIV>
<DIV>I have a routine that I think is a lag filter, but it's different =
enough=20
</DIV>
<DIV>from the '7148 code that I'm not sure.&nbsp; At a minumum, it's =
doing=20
</DIV>
<DIV>a bit more than the '7148 version.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>If anyone would care to explain the theory of lag =
filters/coefficients=20
</DIV>
<DIV>to me, as well as tell me what the following routine does, I'd be =
</DIV>
<DIV>MUCH obliged.&nbsp; BTW: I'll bet this same routine is in 90% of =
the </DIV>
<DIV>modern P4 ECUs.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You'll need a monospaced font for this</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT=20
face=3DCourier>;*********************************************************=
*<BR>;*<BR>;*=20
Lag Filter Subroutine??<BR>;*<BR>;* Input example:<BR>;* =
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<BR>;*=20
LDAA $00A0 - Sometimes an A/D value<BR>;* LDAB #$80&nbsp; - =
Coefficient?<BR>;*=20
LDX&nbsp; $0315 - The 16-bit storage of the filtered value?<BR>;* =
LDY&nbsp;=20
#$5925- ???<BR>;*<BR>;* Result:<BR>;* =
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<BR>;* 16-bit word in=20
Accumulator=20
D<BR>;*<BR>;**********************************************************</F=
ONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DCourier></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DCourier>F047&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
3C&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
PSHX&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
; Store X<BR>F048&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
30&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
TSX&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
; X =3D (SP) + 1<BR>F049&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; A3=20
00&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
SUBD&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; $00,x&nbsp;&nbsp; ; D =3D =
D -=20
X[0]<BR>F04B&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
37&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
PSHB&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
; store B<BR>F04C&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; E6 00 25&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
LDAB&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; $00,y&nbsp;&nbsp; ; B =3D =

Y[0]<BR>F04F&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 25 03&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =

BLO&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; $F054&nbsp;&nbsp; ; =
if D=20
&lt; 0 goto $F054</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DCourier></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DCourier>F051&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
3D&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
MUL&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
; D =3D A * B<BR>F052&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 20 =
04&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
BRA&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; $F058&nbsp;&nbsp; ; =
goto=20
$F058</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DCourier></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DCourier>F054&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
3D&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
MUL&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
; D =3D A * B<BR>F055&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; A0 00 E3&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
SUBA&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; $00,y&nbsp;&nbsp; ; A =3D =
A -=20
Y[0]</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DCourier></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DCourier>F058&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; E3=20
00&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
ADDD&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; $00,x&nbsp;&nbsp; ; D =3D =
D +=20
X[0]<BR>F05A&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ED 00&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =

STD&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; $00,x&nbsp;&nbsp; ; =
X[0] =3D=20
D<BR>F05C&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
32&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
PULA&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
; get A from stack (was B)<BR>F05D&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; E6 00 =
3D&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
LDAB&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; $00,y&nbsp;&nbsp; ; B =3D =

Y[0]<BR>F060&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
3D&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
MUL&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
; D =3D A * B<BR>F061&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; A9 =
01&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
ADCA&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; $01,x&nbsp;&nbsp; ; A =3D =
A + X[1]=20
+ carry<BR>F063&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
16&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
TAB&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
; B =3D A<BR>F064&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; A6 =
00&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
LDAA&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; $00,x&nbsp;&nbsp; ; A =3D =

X[0]<BR>F066&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 89 00&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =

ADCA&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; #$00&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ; =
A =3D A +=20
carry<BR>F068&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
38&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
PULX&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
; restore X<BR>F069&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
39&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
RTS&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
; return</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks!!</DIV>
<DIV>-Mike<BR>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<BR>Mik=
e Pitts<BR>Delray=20
Beach, FL<BR><A href=3D"mailto:mpitts@emi.net">mpitts@emi.net</A><BR><A=20
href=3D"http://www.emi.net/~mpitts/mike.htm">http://www.emi.net/~mpitts/m=
ike.htm</A><BR>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  8 00:19:43 1998
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Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 22:20:10 -0600
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Code 42
References: <35F30DC6.590F9ACF@candw.lc>
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Martin Powlette wrote:
> 
> It me again and my luck with TBI 5.7 V8's . I checked the ignition
> timing and set it to O TDC by specs, but there is code 42, ignition
> wiring or faulty ign.module. If I clear the code it comes back as soon
> as you start up and idle for even two minutes.  What do you guys think
> ?? The pick up coil 9K, leads,cap and rotor are ok  One other thing it
> stalls right after hard braking or sudden slow down especially down
> hill. Can I adjust the idle speed off the tamper proof plug??
> Any quick tests.  What about the ign. coil??
> 
> Martin

This code *always* sets when you disconnect the 5V bypass (tan/blk)
connector to set the timing.  With it disconnected, the ecm has no way
to adjust timing from base.
Check it out.
Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  8 01:17:53 1998
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Date: Mon, 07 Sep 1998 22:17:19 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Vance Rose <javer96@snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: VATS Info
In-Reply-To: <35F3F42C.BA45A25A@mcn.net>
References: <000301bdda60$b9610220$787d18cb@mainpc>
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Hi Ross

	Address is 0014  95h enable 85h disable, also change  0008 to AAh to
bypass checksum.


GL Vance


At 08:56 AM 9/7/98 -0600, you wrote:
>There's some stuff in the archives about bypassing vats.  I'm curious,
>what part of an engine swap would make it necessary to bypass VATS?
>Shannen
>
>Ross Myers wrote:
>> 
>> Hi All,
>> 
>> Does anybody have any Bin's or Info on how to bypass the VATS on an 88 TPI
>> motor. It all comes about after a customer at work did an engine swap on
his
>> 84 Vette.
>> 
>> Any info appreciated.
>> 
>> Regards
>> 
>> Ross Myers
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  8 04:22:33 1998
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Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 00:40:46 +0200
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Bosch
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At 16.03 07/09/98 GMT-2, you wrote:
>Hi
>
>Does anybody on the list regarding the Bosch Motronic 1.5 system as 
>used in the Opel Kadett.
>
>Any help will be appreciated.
>
>Georg
>

Hi George,

Please give me the BOSCH CODE written on the ECU, I will find it on my
database.

Bye.


Fabrizio Palumbo

EFI Technologies
http://www.axa.it/ame
E-Mail : mailto://ame@axa.it



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  8 06:46:58 1998
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Message-ID: <35F32D92.314AB5A2@candw.lc>
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 1998 20:49:24 -0400
From: Martin Powlette <marquise@candw.lc>
Organization: Auto Service & Repairs Ltd.
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Code 42
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Yes, but I have reconnected that wire and cleared the code but it comes
right back after start up. Also the ign. coil's core is loose on the
laminated iron ring around it. What effect would that have??

Shannen Durphey wrote:

> Martin Powlette wrote:
> >
> > It me again and my luck with TBI 5.7 V8's . I checked the ignition
> > timing and set it to O TDC by specs, but there is code 42, ignition
> > wiring or faulty ign.module. If I clear the code it comes back as soon
> > as you start up and idle for even two minutes.  What do you guys think
> > ?? The pick up coil 9K, leads,cap and rotor are ok  One other thing it
> > stalls right after hard braking or sudden slow down especially down
> > hill. Can I adjust the idle speed off the tamper proof plug??
> > Any quick tests.  What about the ign. coil??
> >
> > Martin
>
> This code *always* sets when you disconnect the 5V bypass (tan/blk)
> connector to set the timing.  With it disconnected, the ecm has no way
> to adjust timing from base.
> Check it out.
> Shannen




From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  8 09:21:07 1998
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From: "Gregory A. Parmer" <gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu>
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On Sun, 6 Sep 1998, Quinton McCombs wrote:
> I am new to the list and wanted to know if there was already a FAQ
> somewhere that I could read.  I am interested in monitoring the various

The info you're looking for may be in the archives,
which are searchable from the website.  I started putting
together a FAQ for donation to the site, but it aint finished
and may never be. If someone else wants to run with the
ball or just check out what I've collected, see
 http://www.acesag.auburn.edu/~gparmer/efi/myfaq.htm

later,
-greg



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  8 09:23:51 1998
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Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 06:24:04 -0800
From: Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
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"Mike Pitts" <mpitts@mail.emi.net> wrote:
> as well as tell me what the following routine does
>
> F047    3C          PSHX                ; Store X
> F048    30          TSX                 ; X =3D (SP) + 1
> F049    A3 00       SUBD        $00,x   ; D =3D D - X[0]
> F04B    37          PSHB                ; store B
> F04C    E6 00 25    LDAB        $00,y   ; B =3D Y[0]
> F04F    25 03       BLO         $F054   ; if D < 0 goto $F054

> F051    3D          MUL                 ; D =3D A * B
> F052    20 04       BRA         $F058   ; goto $F058

> F054    3D          MUL                 ; D =3D A * B
> F055    A0 00 E3    SUBA        $00,y   ; A =3D A - Y[0]

> F058    E3 00       ADDD        $00,x   ; D =3D D + X[0]
> F05A    ED 00       STD         $00,x   ; X[0] =3D D
> F05C    32          PULA                ; get A from stack (was B)
> F05D    E6 00 3D    LDAB        $00,y   ; B =3D Y[0]
> F060    3D          MUL                 ; D =3D A * B
> F061    A9 01       ADCA        $01,x   ; A =3D A + X[1] + carry
> F063    16          TAB                 ; B =3D A
> F064    A6 00       LDAA        $00,x   ; A =3D X[0]
> F066    89 00       ADCA        #$00    ; A =3D A + carry
> F068    38          PULX                ; restore X
> F069    39          RTS                 ; return

typedef /*compiler dependent type goes here*/ int16;
typedef /*compiler dependent type goes here*/ int32;
typedef unsigned int16 uint16;

uint16 Blend(uint16 numD, uint16 numX, unsigned char *ratio)
    {
    unsigned int32 temp, portionD, portionX;

    portionD = *ratio;
    portionX = 256 - *ratio;

    temp = (numD * portionD) + (numX * portionX);
    return ((temp + 128) >> 8);
    }

Yes, really!  Now lets do a blow by blow analysis:


First, put the contents of X on the stack where it can be accessed
easier.  The address of where it is on the stack is placed into X so
that $00,x can be used to access the value.

    PSHX
    TSX

Now compute the difference between the X and D inputs.  Save the low
order byte on the stack for later.  Working on the difference means that
only one 8x16 multiply will be needed.

    SUBD  $00,x
    PSHB

If D >= X, in other words, if the difference is positive, multiply the
upper byte of the difference (in A) by the blend ratio.  Afterwards, the
value in D is aligned with bits 2^23 through 2^8 of the full 24 product
(of the difference and the blend ratio.)

    LDAB  $00,y
    BLO   @0
    MUL
    BRA   @1

If D < X, multiply the upper byte of the difference by the blend ratio. 
The subtract fixes the result of the unsigned multiply instruction to
account for the signed (negative) operand.  (Essentially, 256 is added
to A to make it positive, the multiply is performed on unsigned/positive
operands, and then 256 times the multiplier (old B) is subtracted to
arrive at the proper value.)

@0  MUL
    SUBA  $00,y

Sum the portion of the difference into the original X input.  This
effectively is doing a preemptive >>8 of the (yet) unfinished product
calculation.  If the original D >= X, then the value on the stack is
increased most of the way towards the final function result.  If the
original D < X, then the value on the stack is decreased to beyond the
final result - the final stage will increase it back up as needed.

@1  ADDD  $00,x
    STD   $00,x

Now multiply the (saved) lower byte of the difference by the ratio. 
This generates a result that needs to be added to bits 2^15 through 2^0
of the full 24 bit product.  Because this product will be >>8, only the
result in A is fully needed.  The low result byte in B will be used just
for rounding.  The 68HC11 will conveniently place this rounding info
into the C flag.

    PULA
    LDAB  $00,y
    MUL

Sum the rest of the product into the X number.  Rounding is rippled up
through the upper byte.

    ADCA  $01,x
    TAB
    LDAA  $00,x
    ADCA  #$00

Clear off the intermediate value stored on the stack, and return to the
caller.  Even though this looks like a restore of X, it isn't because
that stack location has been modified.  So, the function result is in D,
X has been trashed, Y has not been modified.

    PULX
    RTS


This function is likely used by loading a new 16 bit value into D, the
old filter contents into X, pointing Y at the blend ratio, invoking the
function, and then storing D into the filter.  A blend ratio number of 0
means that the "new" value is ignored, the filter value is never
changed.  A blend ratio of 128 moves the filter half way towards the
"new" value.

When filtering 8 bit numbers, it can be useful to make the filter have 8
fractional bits.  In that case, put the 8 bit value into A, zero out B
(or set it to 128 aka half), and then use the upper byte of the filter
value as the "output".

BTW, there are several ways to write this function.  The optimal
implementation depends a lot on the target processor, desired rounding,
and so on.  The 'HC11 is not an easy architecture for this function.  GM
probably "paid" $1000 to $2000 for this one function.

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  8 10:13:15 1998
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From: "Kurek, Larry" <LKurek@ocfexch2.ocf.anl.gov>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: VATS Info
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 09:16:01 -0500 
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Get a no-VATS chip burned by just about any programmer, or you can make
a 555 circuit that sends the correct freqency to the ECM....

TTYL!

Larry

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Ross Myers [SMTP:ponty@axis.jeack.com.au]
> Sent:	Monday, September 07, 1998 7:53 AM
> To:	EFI List
> Subject:	VATS Info
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Does anybody have any Bin's or Info on how to bypass the VATS on an 88
> TPI
> motor. It all comes about after a customer at work did an engine swap
> on his
> 84 Vette.
> 
> Any info appreciated.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Ross Myers
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  8 10:16:34 1998
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From: "BUTLER, Tom" <TEBUTLER@mccain.ca>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: L-Jetronic or LH-Jetronic for 77 mgb ? & ford tempo throtle b
	ody
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 11:19:41 -0300 
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Ted!!
	Any chance you could forward that article to others (ME!!!) who
might be able to make use of it??
Tom Butler

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Stowe, Ted-SEA [SMTP:StowT@PerkinsCoie.com]
> Sent:	Saturday, September 05, 1998 5:54 PM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	L-Jetronic or LH-Jetronic for 77 mgb ? & ford tempo throtle
> body
> 
> 
> howdy. I was recently forwarded a good article on putting a L-jetronic
> from
> a renault fuego into a mgb 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  8 10:24:39 1998
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References: <199809051623.MAA06797@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu> <9809051013.ZM6944@wiredev.asu.edu> <35F177AF.E2C89B0B@bellsouth.net>
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here,it's 31.95$ for a 6 pack of mobil 1 (1 quart each),CDN cash,for
USD,it's around 20$ (1.50$ CDN cash for each US 1$ currently).

Alain

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  8 10:31:19 1998
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Subject: Re: L-Jetronic or LH-Jetronic for 77 mgb ? & ford tempo throtle b
		ody
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I'm also interested - Perhaps you could post it to the list 
so it makes it into the archives?

TIA, Jack

BUTLER, Tom wrote:
> Ted!!
>         Any chance you could forward that article to others (ME!!!) who
> might be able to make use of it??

> > howdy. I was recently forwarded a good article on putting a L-jetronic
> > from
> > a renault fuego into a mgb


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-----Original Message-----
From: Gregory A. Parmer <gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, September 08, 1998 10:09 AM
Subject: Re: FAQ



Even if you don't have anything to ask, it's worth reading.  Just
my 02 cents worth
Cheers
Bruce

> http://www.acesag.auburn.edu/~gparmer/efi/myfaq.htm
>
>later,
>-greg
>
>



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  8 12:06:34 1998
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	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: L-Jetronic or LH-Jetronic for 77 mgb ? & ford tempo throtle b
	 ody
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sure.

you wouldn't know of any especially great throttle bodies for that project ?
the one in the article was from a ford tempo. unknown year

-----Original Message-----
From: BUTLER, Tom [mailto:TEBUTLER@mccain.ca]
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 1998 7:20 AM
To: 'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'
Subject: RE: L-Jetronic or LH-Jetronic for 77 mgb ? & ford tempo throtle
b ody


Ted!!
	Any chance you could forward that article to others (ME!!!) who
might be able to make use of it??
Tom Butler

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Stowe, Ted-SEA [SMTP:StowT@PerkinsCoie.com]
> Sent:	Saturday, September 05, 1998 5:54 PM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	L-Jetronic or LH-Jetronic for 77 mgb ? & ford tempo throtle
> body
> 
> 
> howdy. I was recently forwarded a good article on putting a L-jetronic
> from
> a renault fuego into a mgb 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  8 13:06:13 1998
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Thanks Greg. Good stuff.

Regards, Jack



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  8 13:46:24 1998
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Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 13:48:40 -0400
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu, homebrew-autos@xephic.dynip.com
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Alain Toussant
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My apologies to the list...

Alain, your email address appears to be invalid :(  Email me, I have a
question for ya.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

Wanted - RWD Buick Flywheel that fits the 3.8L / 4.1L!
-

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  8 15:27:44 1998
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Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 14:27:14 -0500
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To: diy_efi <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
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Subject: Test, and I'm back.
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Well, it's been an interesting several weeks.  My former employer went
from normal
