From diy_efi-owner  Sun Nov  1 04:27:13 1998
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From: "Geoff & Sue Richards" <geoffsue@one.net.au>
To: "Diy_Efi" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: where to find info
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 13:17:27 +1100
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Could someone be able to tell me of any books or web sites that can explain
the workings of a prom?
I have searched the archives in vain,any references to proms are for those
that already know how these work
I would like to understand addresses and maps etc
TIA
Geoff


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Nov  1 04:35:10 1998
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From: "Geoff & Sue Richards" <geoffsue@one.net.au>
To: "Diy_Efi" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: ftp
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 13:27:14 +1100
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Is this the correct address for the ftp site?

ftp://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/pub/efi332/
Cheers
GEoff


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Nov  1 06:10:02 1998
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Subject: [admin] List services (automated monthly post)

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Nov  1 07:10:19 1998
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Geoff,

You need to look at some of the semiconductor sites.  Intel, AMD,
National Semiconductor and more.  The generic term implies a
non-volitile memory device (doesn't loose it memory when the power is
removed).  Early versions 70' and '80s were based on UV-Erasable
technology (Ultaviolet light they have quartz windows in them) others
were EEPROM (Electronically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory). 
Flash memory came out in the early '90's which has generally replaced
the older EPROM and EEPROM is most devices.  The beauty of Flash and
older EEPROM is that it could be erased and reprogrammed while in a
device where as EPROM usually required removal.  Todays FLash devices
(Intel and AMD) have multiple sections where you can both store code and
variables, as well as keep the latest change data on the product.  AN
example on an ECC might be run the car and collect OBD-II data.  In many
cases engineers may combine Flash memory with a smaller EEPROM.  The
flash holds the program while the EEPROM holds the every day data
(OBD-II).  I hope this gets you started.

Ron Boley


Geoff & Sue Richards wrote:
> 
> Could someone be able to tell me of any books or web sites that can explain
> the workings of a prom?
> I have searched the archives in vain,any references to proms are for those
> that already know how these work
> I would like to understand addresses and maps etc
> TIA
> Geoff

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Nov  1 10:41:38 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor and high speed stumble UPDATE
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>But from the below convertsation  the question I have is...what affect does the
>capability of doing the block learn tables over driving time have o
>this...seems
>that the BLC would correct for any built in errors due to the changes....?
>rite? rong?   GENE

Hi Gene--

First, let me say that my assumption in writing the stuff below was that
the mfgrs would program their ecu's in a manner which would maximize
mileage and minimize emissions, so as to do the best job possible of
conforming to their CAFE and EPA restraints, no matter how foolish some of
those restraints might be. Perhaps this is a faulty assumption, but I would
be very surprised if it is--mostly because mfgr sales and profits depend
very heavily on meeting those rules!

Second, I will admit freely to the fact that I am groping for an answer
about the BLC's--I know about enough about them to be dangerous. My
perception of the BLC stuff is that it provides enough "self-learned"
variability in the ecu's tuning tables so that the ecu can compensate for
things like changes in leak-down rate as the mileage on an engine adds up
and natural variations in flow, crank indexing, cam timing and lobe
variation, compression, etc., between (non-blueprinted) production engines
in a given series. I THINK that the variability provided by the BLC stuff
extends over much too limited a range for it to be able to compensate for
such a drastic variation in conditions as turning off the EGR. I think that
you get a trouble code posted when something takes the BLC's to their outer
limits, unless a chip twiddler has turned that feature off.

Third, I believe that it would be fair to assume that the mfgrs did not
provide the BLC stuff out of the goodness of their hearts or to help out
the occasional hot-rodder. Far more likely, it was determined that is was
cheaper to provide them than it was to tighten up engine production
tolerances, or to build enough durability into their (also now required to
be built at a higher level of precision) engines to meet the (EPA required)
extended emission warranties without any need for manual tuning
adjustments! The automatic tuning adjustments provided by the BLC's is OK
per the terms of the EPA rules on the warranty, I do not believe that any
other approach would be.

 'Twould be fascinating to hear the level of mfgr squalling (and see the
hardware) that would result if the CAFE regs were changed to require a
warranty of the required fuel mileage over an extended period!!! Too bad
that bureaucrats' hunger for power is never matched by greater quantities
of wisdom or intelligence!!--Could it be that an increase in the latter two
qualities will always cause the first thing to grow smaller???!! (One could
point to Hitler as an example of one extreme, and Einstein as an example of
the opposite extreme!!)

(Never could understand why so many people are convinced that I have a very
dirty, sarcastic mind!!)

Regards, Greg


>
>Greg Hermann wrote:
>>
>> Hi--
>>
>> Good accurate info, in general.
>>
>> >The knock you are detecting at part throttle with the aftermarket chip is
>> >from lack of EGR... Guaranteed that the chip people only removed the EGR
>> >and didn't fix the EGR timing and fuel tables to make it run right without
>> >the EGR...
>>
>> Yep.
>>
>>  GM adds timing and leans the fuel during EGR so there is no loss
>> >of power from the EGR.
>>
>> As to this one, I have a bridge in Brooklyn you can buy!!
>>
>> Yes, they lean it so that CO and HC do not go up, on account of less total
>> air, and yes, they advance it so that they get back some of the response
>> and mileage screwed up by EGR (mixture diluents are a knock resister, so
>> they CAN get away with more advance when EGR is on), but NO WAY you do not
>> lose power at equal MAP levels with EGR on vs. off!!
>>
>>  Take away the EGR, and now the timing is way too
>> >high, and the fuel is too lean because the part of the combustion air that
>> >was recirculated exhaust is now air and it needs fuel.
>>
>> Yep.
>>
>> >This is why a lot of chip makers charge a fortune hoping no one knows what
>> >the tables contain... it shows they have no clue as to what they are doing.
>>
>> What?!?--people involved in the automotive aftermarket who would screw
>> their customers?? Where on earth did they learn such tricks--working for
>> auto manufacturers before they went into making aftermarket stuff??!??
>>
>> Regards, Greg
>
>--
>
>
>                                ____________
>Fun under the sun in          //~~~~~~~~~~~~\\
>Jacksonville, Fl.  :-)))     //______________\\
>                       /~~~---~   |      |   ~---~~~\
>                      /|    /______\____/______\    |\
>                    (( | /      |          |      \ | ))
>     Mako 'Vettes    | \============================/ |
> Shift better with   |\ \\[  ]    |mrvette|   [  ]// /|
>     Automatics      | \/+========================+\/ |
>                     |~==============================~|
>                     |_____|                    |_____|
>
>                     MESS NOT IN THE AFFAIRS OF SHARKS
>                 FOR THOU ART CRUNCHY, AND GOOD WITH CATSUP
>-------------------------------------------------------------------



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Nov  1 10:41:31 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor and high speed stumble UPDATE
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-----Original Message-----
From: Scot Sealander <Sealand@clarityconnect.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Saturday, October 31, 1998 11:43 PM
Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor and high speed stumble UPDATE


>David A. Cooley wrote:
>
>> The knock you are detecting at part throttle with the aftermarket >>chip
is from lack of EGR...
>>That could be true.  But maybe the 'part throttle' changes that the >>chip
maker claims to have made include more advance.
>> Guaranteed that the chip people only removed the EGR
>> and didn't fix the EGR timing and fuel tables to make it run right
>>without the EGR...


>Not a very good gaurantee.  This statement I doubt is true.  Just >because
of the algorithm used in the code.

Is this to say you have read all the algorithms, and understand them
all?.  Since noone here has seen the code, that may be in as much of an
error as anyone's guess fo far.
>
>> GM adds timing and leans the fuel during EGR so there is no >>loss of
power from the EGR.
>
>It can stand more timing with EGR, assuming you are not knock >limited.
Just less power lost.  The fuel is not really 'leaned'.

Then what does Block Learn reference to?.

> The 14.7 to one (stoich) is still met for the air that is in the cylinder.

If the above statement is meant to be applied to 3 way cat converter
equipped cars, then it is wrong.  They have to hunt between two ratios for
them to work.

> The job of the ECM is to measure (or calculate) the amount of air
>in the cylinder, then add the required amount of fuel at the desired
>AFR.  The measured amount of air in the cylinder does not include the EGR.
>
>
>> Take away the EGR, and now the timing is way too
>> high, and the fuel is too lean because the part of the combustion >>air
that was recirculated exhaust is now air and it needs fuel.
>
>This is only true (in this case) if your assumptions on how things are
>done are accurate, but they aren't.  The main table may have too >much
timing on purpose, or maybe it has been added.  One would >have to see the
file to know.
>
>
>> This is why a lot of chip makers charge a fortune hoping no one knows
what
>> the tables contain...
>
>Possibly.  After figuring this particular code out, I bought a used
aftermarket
>chip for this app.  I'm sure that they have to sell that one as "off-road"
>only.  The "part throttle" changes do not meet emission specs, and the WOT
>changes may actually result in lower gas mileage.  I haven't actually
>tried it to see.
>
>
>> it shows they have no clue as to what they are doing.
>
>Not unusual.  But do YOU know what the chip does?   It is easy to call them
>incompetent.  You have made some assumptions that just aren't true.

I think your carring things too the nenth degree.  Does one need to
know the exact chemical process that an egg goes thru to be cooked and taste
good??, NO.   Knowing how much fuel needs to be where, and the right amount
of timing are what matters.
>
>Scot Sealander   Sealand@clarityconnect.com
>
>
>> If you want a chip that will make the car run better, try a reputable
name
>> like Z Industries... Ron Zimmer has friends in the automotive
manufacturer
>> industry that supply info and his chips are actual dyno tested units...
>
>I trust this kind the least!  I trust people who reverse the code, forcing
>them to understand how things get accomplished.  Having a "friend" means
>that you really don't understand what the code does.  Would WOT dyno
testing
>find the part throttle ping?

Can also be said that I've seen several of the really good guys make
a booboo, in what they saw.

What counts is what's in the car.  If you want to reverse engineer it
fine, if you want to pic it apart fine.  But, the only true test is when you
use it in a car.
Bruce
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Nov  1 12:26:30 1998
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From: Jemison Richard <JemisonR@tce.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: where to find info
Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 12:26:17 -0500 
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If I could elaborate a bit here.  PROM is actually (P)rogrammable (R)ead
(O)nly (M)emory and refers as is described below to a non-volatile memory.
However, it was based on tiny fuses which were (1)s if you left them alone
and (0)s if you blew them (you could also get reverse logic proms).

The prom was laid out in a matrix of addresses of a specific word length.
To program them you specified an address and the "value" or the word.  Every
bit which was a 1, the programmer would blow the fuse.

These were very cheap compared to EPROMS but were definitely one shot
devices.  Programming changes required new PROM chips.  Hope that helps.

Rick

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	ron.boley [SMTP:ron.boley@worldnet.att.net]
> Sent:	Sunday, November 01, 1998 7:11 AM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: where to find info
> 
> Geoff,
> 
> You need to look at some of the semiconductor sites.  Intel, AMD,
> National Semiconductor and more.  The generic term implies a
> non-volitile memory device (doesn't loose it memory when the power is
> removed).  Early versions 70' and '80s were based on UV-Erasable
> technology (Ultaviolet light they have quartz windows in them) others
> were EEPROM (Electronically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory). 
> Flash memory came out in the early '90's which has generally replaced
> the older EPROM and EEPROM is most devices.  The beauty of Flash and
> older EEPROM is that it could be erased and reprogrammed while in a
> device where as EPROM usually required removal.  Todays FLash devices
> (Intel and AMD) have multiple sections where you can both store code and
> variables, as well as keep the latest change data on the product.  AN
> example on an ECC might be run the car and collect OBD-II data.  In many
> cases engineers may combine Flash memory with a smaller EEPROM.  The
> flash holds the program while the EEPROM holds the every day data
> (OBD-II).  I hope this gets you started.
> 
> Ron Boley
> 
> 
> Geoff & Sue Richards wrote:
> > 
> > Could someone be able to tell me of any books or web sites that can
> explain
> > the workings of a prom?
> > I have searched the archives in vain,any references to proms are for
> those
> > that already know how these work
> > I would like to understand addresses and maps etc
> > TIA
> > Geoff

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Nov  1 13:20:40 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: EGR and BLMs, was Oxygen sensor....
References: <v01510100b26102890929@[204.132.128.2]> <363BCD0C.1F267170@bellsouth.net>
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mrvette wrote:
 
> But from the below convertsation  the question I have is...what affect 
> does the capability of doing the block learn tables over driving time 
> have o this...seems that the BLC would correct for any built in errors
> due to the changes....?  rite? rong?  

Right, Gene.

The block learn can easily add the necessary fuel.  It is within range, 
but is only needed if you disable EGR by external means.  That is, if you
use an EGR block-off plate, or otherwise defeat EGR mechanically, and the 
ECM thinks that EGR is really on when it is defeated, it needs to add 
fuel, and it will.

If you turn EGR off in the ECM, such as the PWM to the EGR is zero, then
the ECM knows that there is no EGR, and it has the fueling right to start 
with.

The spark *in-this-case* is a little more complex.  One would have to see
what the cal tables look like to really know, and not guess at what is 
going on.  Tuning by long distance can be very difficult....  ;-)

Scot Sealander     Sealand@clarityconnect.com


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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@idirect.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Hunting Idle
Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 14:03:51 -0800
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Any help with this would be appreciated...........I am working with a =
mild MPFI 427 big-block project.  The engine and cam are fairly =
conservative,  the induction system is from Accel,  the injectors are 30 =
#/HR SVO saturated units, the computer is a 16197427 with BCC AUJP.   =
Despite much effort, we cannot get a stable warm idle.  The idle speed =
hunts up/down excessively, and the rush of air through the IAC sounds =
like a large household vacuum cleaner.  The IAC is responding to the =
computer.   With a carb,  the engine used to idle nicely at 800 RPM with =
around 16 "Hg.   Learned IAC counts are about 40, and current IAC counts =
swing wildly.  More throttle blade minimum airflow does not seem to help =
much.

Thanks.


------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE05A0.74415EE0
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Any help with this would be appreciated...........I =
am working=20
with a mild MPFI 427 big-block project.&nbsp; The engine and cam are =
fairly=20
conservative,&nbsp; the induction system is from Accel,&nbsp; the =
injectors are=20
30 #/HR SVO saturated units, the computer is a 16197427 with BCC=20
AUJP.&nbsp;&nbsp; Despite much effort, we cannot get a stable warm =
idle.&nbsp;=20
The idle speed hunts up/down excessively, and the rush of air through =
the IAC=20
sounds like a large household vacuum cleaner.&nbsp; The IAC is =
responding to the=20
computer.&nbsp;&nbsp; With a carb,&nbsp; the engine used to idle nicely =
at 800=20
RPM with around 16 &quot;Hg.&nbsp;&nbsp; Learned IAC counts are about =
40, and=20
current IAC counts swing wildly.&nbsp; More throttle blade minimum =
airflow does=20
not seem to help much.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Nov  1 14:28:24 1998
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In a message dated 98-11-01 14:15:56 EST, you write:

<< Any help with this would be appreciated...........I am working with a mild
MPFI 427 big-block project.  The engine and cam are fairly conservative,  the
induction system is from Accel,  the injectors are 30 #/HR SVO saturated
units, the computer is a 16197427 with BCC AUJP.   Despite much effort, we
cannot get a stable warm idle.  The idle speed hunts up/down excessively, and
the rush of air through the IAC sounds like a large household vacuum cleaner.
The IAC is responding to the computer.   With a carb,  the engine used to idle
nicely at 800 RPM with around 16 "Hg.   Learned IAC counts are about 40, and
current IAC counts swing wildly.  More throttle blade minimum airflow does not
seem to help much.
 
 Thanks. >>


Vacum leak???

Christopher

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Nov  1 14:37:53 1998
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Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 14:41:54 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: David Piper <dapiper@one.net>
Subject: DynoJet Dynamometer for sale
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Is there anybody out there?
Who wants a great performance tuning tool, that is.

This is Dynojet's model 248H chassis dyno with lube oil style hydraulic lift
suitable for above ground installations.  Includes computer, printer, latest
SW upgrade, tie downs and many spares.

Unit includes CDS data acquisition system which can measure any pressure,
temperature or flow on the engine simultaneously, while measuring HP and
torque.  For example; boost, fuel press and flow, EGT, exh back press,
turbine back press, intercooler in/out temps, Lambda (O2 sensor) and intk
charge temp and press.

Use the latest tool for quantifying the performance of aftermarket parts for
your customer's satisfaction.  Substantiate the improvements of your ECU
chip reprogramming business.  Perform development work for race teams with
the official licensed dyno of NASCAR. 

Price is $30K outright, or $10K and take over lease payments of $705/mo.
Relocation forces sale.

For info on the DynoJet, see dynojet.com web site or call anytime.

Contact:

David Piper, owner
Performance Chassis Dyno
239 Beverly Road
Greeenville, SC 29609
864-322-2737
dapiper@one.net 


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Nov  1 14:48:55 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Hunting Idle
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    Well as far as I know that ecm is for a 512 prom, and the aujp is a =
256
    some time ago tried running a 128K where a 256 was supposed to go, =
and it had about the same problem.  Might try double loading the the=20
    256 on the 512 prom.
    Bruce =20
   =20
    Any help with this would be appreciated...........I am working with =
a mild MPFI 427 big-block project.  The engine and cam are fairly =
conservative,  the induction system is from Accel,  the injectors are 30 =
#/HR SVO saturated units, the computer is a 16197427 with BCC AUJP.   =
Despite much effort, we cannot get a stable warm idle.  The idle speed =
hunts up/down excessively, and the rush of air through the IAC sounds =
like a large household vacuum cleaner.  The IAC is responding to the =
computer.   With a carb,  the engine used to idle nicely at 800 RPM with =
around 16 "Hg.   Learned IAC counts are about 40, and current IAC counts =
swing wildly.  More throttle blade minimum airflow does not seem to help =
much.
    =20
    Thanks.
    =20

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style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Well as =
far as I know=20
    that ecm is for a 512 prom, and the aujp is a 256</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>some time =
ago tried=20
    running a 128K where a 256 was supposed to go, and it had about the =
same=20
    problem.&nbsp; Might try double loading the the </FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>256 on the 512 prom.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Bruce&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Any help with this would be =
appreciated...........I am=20
    working with a mild MPFI 427 big-block project.&nbsp; The engine and =
cam are=20
    fairly conservative,&nbsp; the induction system is from Accel,&nbsp; =
the=20
    injectors are 30 #/HR SVO saturated units, the computer is a =
16197427 with=20
    BCC AUJP.&nbsp;&nbsp; Despite much effort, we cannot get a stable =
warm=20
    idle.&nbsp; The idle speed hunts up/down excessively, and the rush =
of air=20
    through the IAC sounds like a large household vacuum cleaner.&nbsp; =
The IAC=20
    is responding to the computer.&nbsp;&nbsp; With a carb,&nbsp; the =
engine=20
    used to idle nicely at 800 RPM with around 16 &quot;Hg.&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Learned=20
    IAC counts are about 40, and current IAC counts swing wildly.&nbsp; =
More=20
    throttle blade minimum airflow does not seem to help =
much.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Nov  1 15:06:50 1998
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Subject: O2 sensor
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Anyone know of 4-wire sensor that is preferred due to its resistance to lead
poisoning?  Search of local parts store turned up several Bosch P/N's LSH
22, 25 and 64.  They all appear the same, except for lead length and
termination style.  Are there any other differences?   I heard the NTK used
for Fords is especially resistant.  Where can I get these?

Thanks
TurboDave


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Nov  1 15:17:34 1998
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Subject: Re: Hunting Idle
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Hi Walter

Hunting idle is fun.

AUJP I thought was a 730 calibration? It works then it works..

One thing to try is reversing one of the pairs of leads to one of the IAC
coils.
Sometimes  these end up wrong.

Also try increasing min air. Get your counts around 1 or 2

Pintle shape is also critical. A blunt pintle makes for oscillating idle
A more tapered one is better.

gl:peter



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Nov  1 15:17:58 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: EGR and BLMs, was Oxygen sensor....
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-----Original Message-----
From: Scot Sealander <Sealand@clarityconnect.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, November 01, 1998 2:50 PM
Subject: Re: EGR and BLMs, was Oxygen sensor....


>mrvette wrote:
> 
>> But from the below convertsation  the question I have is...what affect 
>> does the capability of doing the block learn tables over driving time 
>> have o this...seems that the BLC would correct for any built in errors
>> due to the changes....?  rite? rong?  
>
>Right, Gene.
>
>The block learn can easily add the necessary fuel.  It is within range, 
>but is only needed if you disable EGR by external means.  That is, if you
>use an EGR block-off plate, or otherwise defeat EGR mechanically, and the 
>ECM thinks that EGR is really on when it is defeated, it needs to add 
>fuel, and it will.

Not all the time, might add the fuel and set SES light.
Cheers
Bruce
>
>If you turn EGR off in the ECM, such as the PWM to the EGR is zero, then
>the ECM knows that there is no EGR, and it has the fueling right to start 
>with.
>
>The spark *in-this-case* is a little more complex.  One would have to see
>what the cal tables look like to really know, and not guess at what is 
>going on.  Tuning by long distance can be very difficult....  ;-)
>
>Scot Sealander     Sealand@clarityconnect.com
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Nov  1 15:23:33 1998
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To: David Piper <dapiper@one.net>
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I didn't know there was such a thing as a lead resistant O2 sensor.  The 
ford ones are available through ford motorsport, up here in canada a pair 
will set you back about $200 (~$130 US).
HTH
jw


On Sun, 1 Nov 1998, David Piper wrote:

> Anyone know of 4-wire sensor that is preferred due to its resistance to lead
> poisoning?  Search of local parts store turned up several Bosch P/N's LSH
> 22, 25 and 64.  They all appear the same, except for lead length and
> termination style.  Are there any other differences?   I heard the NTK used
> for Fords is especially resistant.  Where can I get these?
> 
> Thanks
> TurboDave
> 
> 

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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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-----Original Message-----
From: David Piper <dapiper@one.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, November 01, 1998 3:29 PM
Subject: O2 sensor


Just my two cents, it really doesn't matter much.  If your racing the heat +
lead
will get to them, but if for a once inna while thing no big deal.
Considering
some countries just went to unleaded, and have been running o2 for years.
As long as the are driven some with unleaded, while the life is probably
shortened some, no big deal.  If for pure racing then the penalty is short
life,
and I can't see one ceramic being that much different even thou some
manufacturers would like you to think so.  There is just so many things they
add to gas to make it so, getting a 50K is a wonder it itself.
Bruce



>Anyone know of 4-wire sensor that is preferred due to its resistance to
lead
>poisoning?  Search of local parts store turned up several Bosch P/N's LSH
>22, 25 and 64.  They all appear the same, except for lead length and
>termination style.  Are there any other differences?   I heard the NTK used
>for Fords is especially resistant.  Where can I get these?
>
>Thanks
>TurboDave
>


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In a message dated 98-11-01 14:45:57 EST, you write:

<< Is there anybody out there?
 Who wants a great performance tuning tool, that is.
 
 This is Dynojet's model 248H chassis dyno with lube oil style hydraulic lift
 suitable for above ground installations.  Includes computer, printer, latest
 SW upgrade, tie downs and many spares >>


Man,  if only I could convince my wife to give up her side of the garage!

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Nov  1 16:35:23 1998
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Hunting Idle
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>Hi Walter
>
>Hunting idle is fun.
>
Yeah, but elk meat tastes a whole lot better----

--Greg



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-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, November 01, 1998 5:09 PM
Subject: Re: Hunting Idle


>>Hi Walter
>>Hunting idle is fun.
>Yeah, but elk meat tastes a whole lot better----
>--Greg


Beg to differ when aged the idle is much better.
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Nov  1 19:20:32 1998
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Chris,

thank you an awful lot for the information. I will keep digging for more
information on the subject. I think that I will also self-educate with the
68HC11 regarding ignition and mixture management, this information seems to be
well covered. When I am more up to the current level of knowledge I will try
my best to spread the word with Toyota/Nissan/Mazda lovers :) :).

Later,

Chris Conlon wrote:
> 
> Helene V. wrote:
> 
> > Hey, funny, when I subscribed to diy_efi I asked the same about
> > microcontroller programming... (got no answer)
> 
> Oops, I figured someone would have answered that.
> 
> The only thing I've ever really seen to let you tweak the on-chip code in
> Toyota ECUs is the Techtom stuff that G-Force (and others?) use(s). I
> think it's similar to something another poster mentioned recently: you
> use a feature of the microcontroller to read out the onboard rom, modify
> the code, and the program an EPROM version of the same microcontroller
> with your new code. (And/or make an adapter board, and force the existing
> micro to read the code & data from an external EPROM.)
> 
> Techtom apparently even offer training classes for tuning various ECUs,
> once you buy their $$$ setup.
> 
> As the other fellow said, it could be a fun project, but it's gonna be
> a fair bit more work than downloading a bin file, burning an EPROM and
> swapping it in.
> 
> I seem to remember hearing that the ECU in question was an 8051 or variant,
> but I could be totally wrong here. I used to have URLs for a little bit
> of Techtom & G-Force info, I can dig for them if you're interested in
> going this route. Also the MR2 list is in the middle of a big group buy
> on G-Force upgrades for the SW20, and it seems like the G-Force people
> aren't *too* tight-lipped about the tech details.
> 

-- 
Helene V.
___________________
"If it ain't broke, make it faster"
Check out our mondo Toyota page at http://www.students.tut.fi/~k124476
and stay tuned for just how many miles on a 5M-GE before it dies (now 235 000)

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Nov  1 19:40:27 1998
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From: "<GJC> Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: EGR and BLMs, was Oxygen sensor....
Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 19:40:21 -0500
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Hello List,

Hi, I'm Gary Couse. In searching the web over trying to find info on
injecting both 403 and 455 Olds, I came acrost a reference to this list.

I am currently building a prototype for the CC-IROC-SS conversion product
line. Based on the '82-'86 Oldsmobile Cutlass G-body. I will offer 3
different drive lines. The interest that brings me here is EFI for the top 2
power plants.

Anyone having practical physical experience, info, or links to info about
injecting the Olds 403, (455 will come later), please respond directly. It
might help you out to understand the fledgling project site. I just created
the site This site is not open to the public yet. Click on the Couse Customs
link below to be transported to "Quincy", The prototype. You'll also have
the chance at delve a little deeper into the CC-IROC-SS conversion.

	Bottom line; Does the Olds 403ci have a bolt on  EFI system available? Am I
into hand fabrication? I really want a dual rail port injection with turbo.
I can accomplish all the turbo aspects.


-----Regards,

   G.J.C
Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
Rt-1, Box-615
 Bailey Road
Purling, N.Y.
 12470-9709

ICQ# 5209322
 CC-IROC-SS
518-622-0376
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

Couse Custom Cutlass,
'86 CC-IROC-SS-#1 = "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/~cousecustoms/


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Nov  1 19:50:24 1998
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From: "WILMAN" <wilman@hkabc.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Ford OBD II -> PC interface
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1990 11:21:30 +0800
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----------
> From: Mark Wilcutts <markw@vehicle.me.berkeley.edu>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: Ford OBD II -> PC interface
> Date: Saturday, October 31, 1998 10:06 PM
> 
> >From their website it appears they don't produce a product compatible
with
> the PWM implementation of the OBDII standard, the versions they have are
> for the VPW and ISO implementations. Do you have other information?
> 
> thanks-
> 
> --
> Mark Wilcutts
> 
> On Wed, 10 Jan 1990, WILMAN wrote:
> 
> > 	Try carcomp.com. Their OBD II software is about $300.
> > 
> > Wilman

Try to send Mr Grable of Carcomp an e-mail. He is at grable@smithville.net.








> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Nov  1 20:04:48 1998
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From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Hunting Idle
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I prefer mine smoked

At 05:16 PM 11/1/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Sunday, November 01, 1998 5:09 PM
>Subject: Re: Hunting Idle
>
>
>>>Hi Walter
>>>Hunting idle is fun.
>>Yeah, but elk meat tastes a whole lot better----
>>--Greg
>
>
>Beg to differ when aged the idle is much better.
>Bruce
> 
===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

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I do not know if you can only get leaded gas but i can get more HP out of
unleaded race gas in short track work with the small carb rules and i would
think that HP would be the same with the big carbs. Then tune with O2 meter
readings.

Steve

Bruce Plecan wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Piper <dapiper@one.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Sunday, November 01, 1998 3:29 PM
> Subject: O2 sensor
>
> Just my two cents, it really doesn't matter much.  If your racing the heat +
> lead
> will get to them, but if for a once inna while thing no big deal.
> Considering
> some countries just went to unleaded, and have been running o2 for years.
> As long as the are driven some with unleaded, while the life is probably
> shortened some, no big deal.  If for pure racing then the penalty is short
> life,
> and I can't see one ceramic being that much different even thou some
> manufacturers would like you to think so.  There is just so many things they
> add to gas to make it so, getting a 50K is a wonder it itself.
> Bruce
>
> >Anyone know of 4-wire sensor that is preferred due to its resistance to
> lead
> >poisoning?  Search of local parts store turned up several Bosch P/N's LSH
> >22, 25 and 64.  They all appear the same, except for lead length and
> >termination style.  Are there any other differences?   I heard the NTK used
> >for Fords is especially resistant.  Where can I get these?
> >
> >Thanks
> >TurboDave
> >




From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 03:39:25 1998
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In a message dated 10/29/98 10:52:22 AM Pacific Standard Time,
afgun@mongoose.dearborn.sgi.com writes:

<< > Hi,
 >       Try a Mass Air Sensor for a 99 Chev Truck.....It supposedly can pass
 > enough air for 525 hp (according to a GM guy)...and get this I can buy them
 at
 > the dealer for $40. I think GM has their pricing wrong....btw they also
have
 > an air temp sensor built in.......hth's
 
 But I'm assuming that this is probably a frequency output device, not a
 voltage differential, right?
  >>
Yes you are correct,,,,it outputs frequency,
-Carl Summers

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 05:12:36 1998
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<snip>

>The prom was laid out in a matrix of addresses of a specific word length.
>To program them you specified an address and the "value" or the word.
Every
>bit which was a 1, the programmer would blow the fuse.

This is what I want to find out about  have seen maps etc but no idea how to
read 'em
Any books recommended
need to be basic

>These were very cheap compared to EPROMS but were definitely one shot
>devices.  Programming changes required new PROM chips.  Hope that helps.
Cheers
Geoff


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 07:56:28 1998
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I had something like this on mine, pinch off the hose to the MAP if 
it smooths out what you need is a restrictor in that line.  What 
fixed mine is using a factory long, thin (1/8" dia) plastic hose in 
place of 1/4" vacuum tubing.


> Any help with this would be appreciated...........I am working with a mild MPFI 427 big-block project.  The engine and cam are fairly conservative,  the induction system is from Accel,  the injectors> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
Randy Braun
'77 C-10 pick-up, DFI-Tuned Port, 350
'82 Firebird, DFI, ZZ3
'91 GTA, Stock

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 09:47:22 1998
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Subject: GM Trouble codes, Help Please
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I've finally got my '96 Impala SS engine running (with 4L60E
trans).  It is controlled by a '95 Camaro PCM (to avoid the 
OBD-II stuff).  It runs fairly well, but not nearly as smooth
as I'd expect.

I put a scanner on the ALDL and got the following codes:

26 Quad Driver Module 1 Fault
29 EAS Electrical Fault QDM
97 4k pulses/mile Fault QDM

These codes don't show up immediately, but after the engine has
been running for a short while (say 30 seconds).
I've got a list of the data/codes coming out of the PCM, but it
simply lists these codes.  I've got the complete diagnostic shop
manuals for the '96 engine, but they don't match the '95.  I've 
read the manual for the scanner, but it doesn't help much.

My questions:

1.  What the heck is the EAS????  I can't find it documented 
anywhere!

2.  Where can I find more info about Quad Data Module (QDM) 
number 1?

3.  I'm suspicious about the Vehicle Speed Sensor.  The '95 
wiring harness connector didn't mate with the VSS on the
'96 transmission.  I did wire them together without the plugs.
Are these different?  

The only faults I've found so far with the engine are some
bad (fouled?) injectors.  This engine sat in my garage on a
pallet for one and a half years.  When I first fired it up it
barely ran.  I found 2 injectors weren't doing anything.  I might
have a couple more bad injectors, but at $66 a pop, I want to
be sure before I spend money on them.  Anyone know a way to 
'repair' fouled/plugged/bad injectors????


I'm sure there are experts out there who know the differences
between the '95 and '96, and understand the details of these
codes.  

The Snap-On scanner is going back to the shop I borrowed it from,
but I'm on my way to wiring up my own ALDL-to-PC circuit, and
the software to drive it, so I should have my own personal
scanner soon.

Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks,
Dave Hempstead
'34 Ford Tudor Sedan (at the body shop)

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 10:30:14 1998
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Subject: Z Industries
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Where do we find Z Industries?


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 10:36:52 1998
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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 10:36:42 -0500 
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Geoff,

Don't suppose you'd have one of those maps in electronic format (or if you
could scan one) and pop it off.  Might be easier if I explained what the
sucker was trying to say.  I can't think of a book on PROMs specifically
right now.  I'm no expert, but I might be able to read your map.  FWIW.  

Rick

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Geoff & Sue Richards [SMTP:geoffsue@one.net.au]
> Sent:	Sunday, October 25, 1998 6:00 AM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: where to find info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> <snip>
> 
> >The prom was laid out in a matrix of addresses of a specific word length.
> >To program them you specified an address and the "value" or the word.
> Every
> >bit which was a 1, the programmer would blow the fuse.
> 
> This is what I want to find out about  have seen maps etc but no idea how
> to
> read 'em
> Any books recommended
> need to be basic
> 
> >These were very cheap compared to EPROMS but were definitely one shot
> >devices.  Programming changes required new PROM chips.  Hope that helps.
> Cheers
> Geoff

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 10:58:35 1998
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From: "Bill the arcstarter" <arcstarter@hotmail.com>
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It was written:

><< > Hi,
> >       Try a Mass Air Sensor for a 99 Chev Truck.....It supposedly 
can pass
<SNIP>
 
> But I'm assuming that this is probably a frequency output device, not 
a
> voltage differential, right?
>  >>
>Yes you are correct,,,,it outputs frequency,
>-Carl Summers

If your ECU requires a voltage-type input from the MAF, one way to deal 
with this might be to use National's Freq to Voltage converter chip, the 
LM2917 (or equivalent).

Some guy's using this for a tach/shift light controller at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/7415/shift.htm

-Bill


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 11:08:25 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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-----Original Message-----
From: EFISYSTEMS@aol.com <EFISYSTEMS@aol.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 5:28 AM
Subject: Re: EFI


Try a Mass Air Sensor for a 99 Chev Truck.....It supposedly can pass enough
air for 525 hp (according to a GM guy)...and get this I can buy them at the
dealer for $40. I think GM has their pricing wrong....btw they also have an
air temp sensor built in.......hth's
 But I'm assuming that this is probably a frequency output device, not a
voltage differential, right?
Yes you are correct,,,,it outputs frequency,
Carl Summers


Maybe a part number please?
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 12:05:51 1998
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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 09:09:17 -0800
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: PIC Questions
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I have a  questions on that cabapilites of the PIC line of processors, here
is what I'm looking to do hardware wise, might you think it can be done
with a PIC and some additional hardware.

LCD Display (probabally 4 bit interface)
RS232 Interface
16 Outputs (via 2 74HC595's)
8 Inputs (via 74HC165)
Input for a rotary encoder (2 inputs)
2K of  Data Storage User Programmable
(Maybe 93C86 or 24C16 Serial EEPROM)

What might I be looking at as far as PIC part. Looks like 3 serial devices,
and 2 Input pins, and 2 I/O for RS/232. Is a configuration like this
possible, comments etc.

Thanks, Sandy

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 12:19:11 1998
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From: Jim Velasquez <Jim_velasquez@partech.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Hunting idle
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 10:19:07 -0700 
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No, No, No... 
TIRES should be smoked;
Idle should be smooth like a fine wine...

>From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
>I prefer mine smoked

>>From: Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net>
>>>Hi Walter
>>>Hunting idle is fun.
>>Yeah, but elk meat tastes a whole lot better----
>>--Greg
>>Beg to differ when aged the idle is much better.
>>Bruce
>> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 13:15:19 1998
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In a message dated 11/2/98 7:39:22 AM Pacific Standard Time, dsagers@ci.west-
valley.ut.us writes:

<< Subj:	 Z Industries
 Date:	11/2/98 7:39:22 AM Pacific Standard Time
 From:	dsagers@ci.west-valley.ut.us (David Sagers)
 Sender:	owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 Reply-to:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 
 Where do we find Z Industries? >>
714-779-6680
-Carl Summers

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 13:26:40 1998
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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 13:22:35 -0500
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Organization: Arrow Electronics, Inc.
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Sandy wrote:
> 
> I have a  questions on that cabapilites of the PIC line of processors, here
> is what I'm looking to do hardware wise, might you think it can be done
> with a PIC and some additional hardware.
> 
> LCD Display (probabally 4 bit interface)
> RS232 Interface
> 16 Outputs (via 2 74HC595's)
> 8 Inputs (via 74HC165)
> Input for a rotary encoder (2 inputs)
> 2K of  Data Storage User Programmable
> (Maybe 93C86 or 24C16 Serial EEPROM)
> 
> What might I be looking at as far as PIC part. Looks like 3 serial devices,
> and 2 Input pins, and 2 I/O for RS/232. Is a configuration like this
> possible, comments etc.
> 
> Thanks, Sandy

Hi Sandy,

Try the PIC16C74A, it has 4K ROM (OTP), 192 bytes RAM, 33 I/O channels
(each w/ 25 ma source/sink), 2 input capture, USART/IIC/SPI, and
is 20 MHz.

- Bruce 
-- 
- Bruce

---------------------------------------------
             Bruce A. Bowling
         bbowling@earthlink.net
   http://home.earthlink.net/~bbowling 
---------------------------------------------

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 13:34:36 1998
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From: "John Thacker" <jrthack@globalnet.co.uk>
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Subject: Bosch
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 18:25:37 -0000
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The Alfa 75 t-spark is fitted with a Motronic 4.1 system it as a diagnostic
socket but no fault light.
how can I access the fault codes and what format will it take ?

I'm new to the list but have noticed a few posts about interfacing a PC with
the efi system, is this easily achieved and can anyone recommend a good
reference to get me started

thanks


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 13:58:01 1998
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Subject: Re: PIC Questions
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In-Reply-To: <363DF86B.377F@earthlink.com> from "Bruce Bowling" at Nov 2, 98 01:22:35 pm
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> Try the PIC16C74A, it has 4K ROM (OTP), 192 bytes RAM, 33 I/O channels
> (each w/ 25 ma source/sink), 2 input capture, USART/IIC/SPI, and
> is 20 MHz.

I'd look at the 16C76 as well.  No need for 33 I/O pins if you are
running the I/O off serial.  I'd suggest the '73A as well, but the
'76 has more modes on the SPI ('73 won't drive the MC145051 AtoD,
but the '76 should).

BTW: I have working code for driving LCD displays (4-bit)... unlike the
Microchip App note code which usually doesn't work.

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 14:43:15 1998
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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 11:46:50 -0800
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: PIC Questions
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That looks like it will do the trick, an it looks like actually room for
some code ;-)

Sandy

At 01:22 PM 11/2/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Sandy wrote:
>> 
>> I have a  questions on that cabapilites of the PIC line of processors, here
>> is what I'm looking to do hardware wise, might you think it can be done
>> with a PIC and some additional hardware.
>> 
>> LCD Display (probabally 4 bit interface)
>> RS232 Interface
>> 16 Outputs (via 2 74HC595's)
>> 8 Inputs (via 74HC165)
>> Input for a rotary encoder (2 inputs)
>> 2K of  Data Storage User Programmable
>> (Maybe 93C86 or 24C16 Serial EEPROM)
>> 
>> What might I be looking at as far as PIC part. Looks like 3 serial devices,
>> and 2 Input pins, and 2 I/O for RS/232. Is a configuration like this
>> possible, comments etc.
>> 
>> Thanks, Sandy
>
>Hi Sandy,
>
>Try the PIC16C74A, it has 4K ROM (OTP), 192 bytes RAM, 33 I/O channels
>(each w/ 25 ma source/sink), 2 input capture, USART/IIC/SPI, and
>is 20 MHz.
>
>- Bruce 
>-- 
>- Bruce
>
>---------------------------------------------
>             Bruce A. Bowling
>         bbowling@earthlink.net
>   http://home.earthlink.net/~bbowling 
>---------------------------------------------
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 14:46:26 1998
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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 11:49:57 -0800
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: PIC Questions
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Well, if the cost of the part is less then the extra interface chips they
can go. Also, the board realestate can be used for other things, less parts
is always better, unless the cost is really high.

May take you up on the display stuff. I am at a very early state for this
(yet another project)...

Sandy


At 10:57 AM 11/2/98 -0800, you wrote:
>
>> Try the PIC16C74A, it has 4K ROM (OTP), 192 bytes RAM, 33 I/O channels
>> (each w/ 25 ma source/sink), 2 input capture, USART/IIC/SPI, and
>> is 20 MHz.
>
>I'd look at the 16C76 as well.  No need for 33 I/O pins if you are
>running the I/O off serial.  I'd suggest the '73A as well, but the
>'76 has more modes on the SPI ('73 won't drive the MC145051 AtoD,
>but the '76 should).
>
>BTW: I have working code for driving LCD displays (4-bit)... unlike the
>Microchip App note code which usually doesn't work.
>
>Orin.
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 15:07:27 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 1227746 ECM
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 14:06:59 -0600 
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I found a 7746 ECM ( ACDW)  at the local U-Pull- IT .   The donor car was a
4.3L TBI 1987 Grand Prix this set up seems to be the same as a 1987 Astro
Van with a 7747 ECM  are the ECM's plug and play ? I would also appreciate
some help
With downloading Bin files, Can a PROM be burned from the data in the Bin's
?  
 
Thanks
 
Don 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 15:08:32 1998
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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 13:24:52 -0600
From: Joe Boucher <BoucherJC@lmtas.lmco.com>
Subject: [Fwd: [M] Knock Sensor testor]
To: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Here is an interesting circuit from the Merkur list:


A recent thread concerns the possibility of the knock sensor (KS)
getting
tripped inappropriately, before actual detonation is occurring, with a
resulting reduction in performance due to the engine management system
retarding the timing. The question came up of how to test the KS.

If anyone is interested, here's a little inexpensive circuit which will
flash an LED whenever the knock sensor is "tripped". Thus, you can check

out the operation of the KS under actual operating conditions while
driving
the car. It may be useful to get a sense of under what conditions the KS

starts getting tripped.


                                + 9V battery
                                    o
                                    |
              1.2K       10K        |
       |-----\/\/\/--o--/\/\/\------o
      ---            |              | 4
      ///            |         |----------|
      Gnd            |        3|          |
                     |-------->|          |    +     -
                               | LM324    |---->(LED)--|
                              2|          | 1          |
 From KS (+) >---------------->|          |            |
                               |----------|            |
                                    | 11               |
                                    o------------------|
                                    |
                                   ---
                                   /// Gnd

Parts: 1      10K  1/4W resistor 5%
       1      1.2K 1/4W resistor 5%
       1      Any LED (a "superbright' is easier to see)
       1      LM324 op-amp (Radio Shack)
       1      9V battery


All these parts are very common, and can be gotten at a Radio Shack.
Total
cost should be under $5. The battery will be the most expensive item.
The
numbers refer to pin numbers on the LM324. Unused pins are left
unconnected. The circuit can be built on a piece of "perfboard" or
similar
(Radio Shack) or the parts can be simply glued onto a piece of plastic
or
something and the connections made by soldering thin insulated wires
"point-to-point". The LM324 can be glued upside down on the plastic
(dead-bug technique).

On my XR4Ti the nominal voltage fed to the KS is about 2.5 volts. The
two
resistors will give about 1 volt to the LM324 at pin 3. Then, whenever
the
voltage on the knock sensor drops below 1 volt (KS activated), the LED
will
flash.

To use, keep the gizmo with you in the car, and run a long wire to the
(+)
terminal of the KS. Any wire will do, can be small gauge. The two
grounds
(Gnd) of the circuit should be connected together and also connected to
the
chassis ground of the car. So, you'll have two wires coming off the
circuit, one going to the KS, and the other going to chassis ground of
the
car. Now, while driving the LED will tell you when the KS is getting
tripped. A "superbright" LED will be easier to see in the daytime.

Disclaimer: I haven't built and used this circuit in my car yet. I
_have_
built it on the bench and it worked there. If anyone wants to try it
out,
I'll be happy to help out if there are any questions. Please email me
off-list. Thanks!

Steve

-------------------------------
Steve Roberts
sroberts@sunstroke.sdsu.edu
619 454 5234,  619 454 7008 FAX
-------------------------------



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Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 13:44:51 -0800
From: Stephen Roberts <sroberts@SUNSTROKE.SDSU.EDU>
Subject: [M] Knock Sensor testor
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A recent thread concerns the possibility of the knock sensor (KS) getting
tripped inappropriately, before actual detonation is occurring, with a
resulting reduction in performance due to the engine management system
retarding the timing. The question came up of how to test the KS.

If anyone is interested, here's a little inexpensive circuit which will
flash an LED whenever the knock sensor is "tripped". Thus, you can check
out the operation of the KS under actual operating conditions while driving
the car. It may be useful to get a sense of under what conditions the KS
starts getting tripped.


                                + 9V battery
                                    o
                                    |
              1.2K       10K        |
       |-----\/\/\/--o--/\/\/\------o
      ---            |              | 4
      ///            |         |----------|
      Gnd            |        3|          |
                     |-------->|          |    +     -
                               | LM324    |---->(LED)--|
                              2|          | 1          |
 From KS (+) >---------------->|          |            |
                               |----------|            |
                                    | 11               |
                                    o------------------|
                                    |
                                   ---
                                   /// Gnd

Parts: 1      10K  1/4W resistor 5%
       1      1.2K 1/4W resistor 5%
       1      Any LED (a "superbright' is easier to see)
       1      LM324 op-amp (Radio Shack)
       1      9V battery


All these parts are very common, and can be gotten at a Radio Shack. Total
cost should be under $5. The battery will be the most expensive item. The
numbers refer to pin numbers on the LM324. Unused pins are left
unconnected. The circuit can be built on a piece of "perfboard" or similar
(Radio Shack) or the parts can be simply glued onto a piece of plastic or
something and the connections made by soldering thin insulated wires
"point-to-point". The LM324 can be glued upside down on the plastic
(dead-bug technique).

On my XR4Ti the nominal voltage fed to the KS is about 2.5 volts. The two
resistors will give about 1 volt to the LM324 at pin 3. Then, whenever the
voltage on the knock sensor drops below 1 volt (KS activated), the LED will
flash.

To use, keep the gizmo with you in the car, and run a long wire to the (+)
terminal of the KS. Any wire will do, can be small gauge. The two grounds
(Gnd) of the circuit should be connected together and also connected to the
chassis ground of the car. So, you'll have two wires coming off the
circuit, one going to the KS, and the other going to chassis ground of the
car. Now, while driving the LED will tell you when the KS is getting
tripped. A "superbright" LED will be easier to see in the daytime.

Disclaimer: I haven't built and used this circuit in my car yet. I _have_
built it on the bench and it worked there. If anyone wants to try it out,
I'll be happy to help out if there are any questions. Please email me
off-list. Thanks!

Steve

-------------------------------
Steve Roberts
sroberts@sunstroke.sdsu.edu
619 454 5234,  619 454 7008 FAX
-------------------------------


--------------BF2E8DA14636A8017AD28935--


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 15:09:03 1998
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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 13:26:14 -0600
From: Joe Boucher <BoucherJC@lmtas.lmco.com>
Subject: [Fwd: [M] Knock Sensor testor (longish)]
To: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Here's a follow up:

UPDATE:   Since my earlier post, I built the tester, and tried it out on

the car ('89XR4Ti 5sp). It seems to work correctly. To connect up to the

knock sensor, I took an 8" length of 26 gauge insulated stranded wire.
Any
thin insulated wire would do. I pulled off the KS connector and inserted

the stripped end of the wire into the (+) socket of the KS connector.
The
(+) side can be determined with a voltmeter and the ignition on. The (+)

side will show about 2.5 volts. On my car the (+) KS wire seems to be
white
with a red stripe. I then pushed the connector back on, trapping the 8"
wire in the connector to the KS (+) terminal. Then I ran a longer wire
from
the end of my 8" wire to the inside of the car.

Inside the car I connected the circuit as per the previous post and
attached the 9V battery. The LED came on, showing that the KS sensor
terminal was below the 1V trip point of the circuit. I then turned on
the
ignition, and the LED went out, showing that the sensor wire was above
the
1V trip point. I then started the car.

I watched the LED while the car idled. Once in a while I saw it flicker
as
I briefly tapped the throttle, but mostly it stayed off. I then drove
the
car around on city streets, watching the LED. I saw sporadic flickers.
Sometimes when accelerating the LED would flicker on more. I tried to
get
detonation by applying throttle at low RPM, but didn't hear any
"pinging"
and did not get much activity on the LED. My static timing is set at 13
BTDC.

Anyway, the tester seems to indicate KS activity correctly. I found that

using a "superbright" LED is required, because the flickers are very
fast
and especially in daylight a normal LED can't really be seen very well.
I
used a superbright green LED, but a red one would work fine also. Radio
Shack has these. In any case, nighttime might be the best time to do
this,
and probably safer with someone riding along as well.

If you thought your performance were being compromised by the KS "coming

on" too soon, you could hook up the tester and see if at higher RPM's
under
load while accelerating the KS showed increased activity. This
additional
KS activity might be getting interpreted by the computer as detonation,
and
retarding the timing. Since we don't have access to the source code, we
don't know how the computer is programmed to react to the KS. Maybe a
lot
of little KS signals are disregarded, and only if the KS comes on for
longer periods of time is any action taken?

Anyway, there is it for what it is/isn't worth. If anyone wants to try
this
tester and needs some help, I'll be happy to help. email off list
please.

Steve

-------------------------------
Steve Roberts
sroberts@sunstroke.sdsu.edu
619 454 5234,  619 454 7008 FAX
-------------------------------




From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 15:16:04 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: RE: Hunting idle
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If the elk is aged a bit AFTER you shoot and hang it, NOT before, this is
what is best. Two or three year old cows are definitely the best eatin'.
Agree completely with the smooth fine wine part!! (and/or single malt.)
White tail venison NEEDS smoked, it's a waste of a real treat with elk
meat!

>No, No, No...
>TIRES should be smoked;
>Idle should be smooth like a fine wine...
>
>>From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
>>I prefer mine smoked
>
>>>From: Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net>
>>>>Hi Walter
>>>>Hunting idle is fun.
>>>Yeah, but elk meat tastes a whole lot better----
>>>--Greg
>>>Beg to differ when aged the idle is much better.
>>>Bruce
>>>



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 15:17:46 1998
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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 14:18:40 -0600
From: Thomas Martin <marttj@pcmail1.csg.mot.com>
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I have a 91 Bonneville with the Series I 3800.  I would like to put the older
larger MAF from a "3" or 3.8L V6 on my engine to increase airflow.  Eventually add
a turbocharger.

The MAF I have now is the Hitachi, and has a small 25 mm air passage.  It has a
small 10 mm (approx) port to sensor air for the MAF itself.

Can I swap these units?  What sort of output does the MAF has?  Is it a constant
voltage that varies with airflow, or is it a higher frequency output?

(should I drag out the O-Scope to view?)

Thanks!
Thomas Martin



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 16:27:48 1998
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From: "Bill the arcstarter" <arcstarter@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: O2 sensors at WOT?
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List,
 I've heard that most ECU's go into an open-loop condition while under 
WOT.  I've also heard this is because most O2 sensors read incorrectly 
under WOT conditions.

Why is that?  Does the increased gas flow cool the O2 sensor down too 
much or what?

Is the decision by the ECU to go open loop - based on TPS alone or on 
(what) else??

Someone else said that a heated O2 sensor will respond to hydrocarbon 
levels if it is not warmed up properly.  If this is true perhaps a poor 
man's gas analyzer could be constructed using one heated (to measure O2) 
and one unheated to measure hydrocarbons, etc???

Thanks!
-Bill

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 16:38:15 1998
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Does anyone know for sure which ecm connector pin is the cooling fan
actuator for the 1227165? I have three manuals, all with different
conflicting pinouts (D2, D12, C9,...???), and ecm which will not turn on
the fan. I'd like to try to repair the bad ecm and thought someone might
save me a few minutes of signal checking if they already knew the correct
answer. Car is 86 vette. : )



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 16:43:30 1998
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-----Original Message-----
From: Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com <Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 4:06 PM
Subject: 1227746 ECM


>I found a 7746 ECM ( ACDW)  at the local U-Pull- IT .   The donor car was a
>4.3L TBI 1987 Grand Prix this set up seems to be the same as a 1987 Astro
>Van with a 7747 ECM  are the ECM's plug and play ?

You really need to get a wiring diagram out, and look.  There are
sometimes small but meaningful changes from ecm to ecm.  They
are not the same.  In the passenger car versions they use a IAT.
Also, the tables will be moved around some I beleive.  If you want
to tinker with a 747 you need to have a 747.  Some of the advanced
guys can play some games with adapations, but if your just starting
out learn the baxics first.

I would also appreciate
>some help
>With downloading Bin files, Can a PROM be burned from the data in the
Bin's.

When the correct corresponding parts are used, yes.
>?
>
>Thanks
>
>Don
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 16:43:49 1998
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From: "<GJC> Cutlass IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
To: "Ohio-State. Edu" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 16:43:36 -0500
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Is there a digest version for this mailing list?

-----Regards,

   G.J.C
Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
Rt-1, Box-615
 Bailey Road
Purling, N.Y.
 12470-9709

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 16:52:35 1998
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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 15:52:25 -0600
From: Joe Boucher <BoucherJC@lmtas.lmco.com>
Subject: [Fwd: FW: Speeding Ticket Loophole!!!]
To: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        "MERKUR-OWNERS@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM" <MERKUR-OWNERS@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
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This sounds like the very best of jail house lawyering or Urban Myth
crap, but it's worth a try!!

THIS IS FOR USA ONLY

 I tried to pass this on to anyone I could think of. This procedure
works in
any state. Read it and try it, you have nothing to loose but the points
in
your license. If you get a speeding ticket or went through a red light
or
whatever  the case may be, and you are going to get points on your
license,
then there is a method to ensure that you DO NOT get any points.

 When you get your fine, send in the check to pay for it and if the fine
is
say $79, then make the check out for $82 or some small amount above the
fine.

 The system will then have to send you back a check for the difference,
but
here is the trick!          ---DO NOT CASH THE CHECK!! Throw it away!

 Points are not assessed to your license until all the financial
transactions are complete. If you do not cash the check, then the
transactions are not complete.  However the system has gotten its money
so
it is happy and will not bother you any more.










From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 16:55:09 1998
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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 15:54:22 -0600 (CST)
From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: O2 sensors at WOT?
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On Mon, 2 Nov 1998, Bill the arcstarter wrote:

> List,
>  I've heard that most ECU's go into an open-loop condition while under 
> WOT.  I've also heard this is because most O2 sensors read incorrectly 
> under WOT conditions.
> 
Yes.  Generally actually below wot, there are settings in the prom to
control what tps at what rpm will go open loop.

> Why is that?  Does the increased gas flow cool the O2 sensor down too 
> much or what?
> 
The O2 sensors are nonlinear, that is small changed in the output
value can be actual big changs in the real system.

> Is the decision by the ECU to go open loop - based on TPS alone or on 
> (what) else??
> 
Everything I am familiar with asys only TPS but differeent rpms take
fdifferent TPS to go open loop.


> Someone else said that a heated O2 sensor will respond to hydrocarbon 
> levels if it is not warmed up properly.  If this is true perhaps a poor 
> man's gas analyzer could be constructed using one heated (to measure O2) 
> and one unheated to measure hydrocarbons, etc???
> 

No.  What the report said (I read it) was that NO O2 sensor senses O2
at the temperatures that they operate at.  They sense hydrocarbons
only.  The temperature required for them to sense O2 was much higher
than the O2 sensor in a normal exhaust stream was supposed to be
getting (heated, or unheated).   So the claim was that O2 sensors
sense hydrocarbons, which should really work much the same as if it
senseed O2.  That also might be why (at least at the rich end) that
things go nonlinear, since it would be hard to detect more of what
you already have alot of. 

 >
Thanks! > -Bill > 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 17:35:08 1998
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In a message dated 11/2/98 4:51:54 PM Eastern Standard Time,
gjcouse@francomm.com writes:

<< Is there a digest version for this mailing list? >>

Yes, I believe the command is subscribe-digest GNTTYPE <youremail>

You can find out by sending mail to majordomo@gnttype.org with "help" in the
body of the message

Jim

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 17:36:44 1998
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oops! Wrong list! Sorry!

Jim

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 17:50:59 1998
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@idirect.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Hunting idle
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 17:50:15 -0800
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Glad to see that the DIY gang has a healthy sense of humour!......


-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 1:36 PM
Subject: RE: Hunting idle


>If the elk is aged a bit AFTER you shoot and hang it, NOT before, this is
>what is best. Two or three year old cows are definitely the best eatin'.
>Agree completely with the smooth fine wine part!! (and/or single malt.)
>White tail venison NEEDS smoked, it's a waste of a real treat with elk
>meat!
>
>>No, No, No...
>>TIRES should be smoked;
>>Idle should be smooth like a fine wine...
>>
>>>From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
>>>I prefer mine smoked
>>
>>>>From: Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net>
>>>>>Hi Walter
>>>>>Hunting idle is fun.
>>>>Yeah, but elk meat tastes a whole lot better----
>>>>--Greg
>>>>Beg to differ when aged the idle is much better.
>>>>Bruce
>>>>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 18:21:37 1998
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From: Benjamin Marsh <bmarsh@turing.une.edu.au>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        "MERKUR-OWNERS@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM" <MERKUR-OWNERS@HOME.EASE.LSOFT.COM>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: FW: Speeding Ticket Loophole!!!]
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Yeah but what happens in three years time when the infringement 
processing bureau gets an audit so they write off all bad transactions, 
including those ripped up cheques which then by default closes all 
transactions and adds all points to your license at once, too bad if 
there is enough there to lose your license, when if you had gotten the 
points when you were supposed to, three years ago, you would have them 
back by now and not lose your license...
Ben

On Mon, 2 Nov 1998, Joe Boucher wrote:

> This sounds like the very best of jail house lawyering or Urban Myth
> crap, but it's worth a try!!
> 
> THIS IS FOR USA ONLY
> 
>  I tried to pass this on to anyone I could think of. This procedure
> works in
> any state. Read it and try it, you have nothing to loose but the points
> in
> your license. If you get a speeding ticket or went through a red light
> or
> whatever  the case may be, and you are going to get points on your
> license,
> then there is a method to ensure that you DO NOT get any points.
> 
>  When you get your fine, send in the check to pay for it and if the fine
> is
> say $79, then make the check out for $82 or some small amount above the
> fine.
> 
>  The system will then have to send you back a check for the difference,
> but
> here is the trick!          ---DO NOT CASH THE CHECK!! Throw it away!
> 
>  Points are not assessed to your license until all the financial
> transactions are complete. If you do not cash the check, then the
> transactions are not complete.  However the system has gotten its money
> so
> it is happy and will not bother you any more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 18:42:43 1998
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Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 18:41:22 EST
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Hi,
I'm new to the list and I already have a question!

THe question is : what resistence should a GM tps read at full throttle
(turned @ 90 degrees)?

The reason I ask is that I spent the whole afternoon trying to adapt and
adjust a GM TPS to my throttle-body.  The manual I have says it should read
between .45 and .85 volts at idle.  The problem I had was I couldnt get it in
that range.  I would move it slightly but it would jump from .2v to 1.0v.
Also, It would read a different voltage every time the throttle came to its
stop.  Finally, I got it to read .55v, but when I gave it full throttle (90
degrees) it only read 1.98v instead of 4.5 - 5 v!
Anyway, before I throw this TPS out and buy another one I want to be sure its
not my wiring, ECM, rig, etc. by measuring the resistence directly at the
TPS(and not volts thru the ECM)
Thanks for any help,
Ted

PS  Its a GM throttle shaft driven TPS (not the lever type) if that makes a
difference.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 19:26:46 1998
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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 19:26:40 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: MAF
In-Reply-To: <363E13A0.9DCEFADA@pcmail1.csg.mot.com>
References: <4288569a.363d6f96@aol.com>
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Thomas,
The MAF is indeed a freq. generator.  After looking at my 95 LeSabre Series
I 3800, a bigger MAF isn't necessary and may cause driveability problems...
 I have my exhaust opened up to 2 1/2" dia and a gutted cat, no resonator
and a Walker Ultra-Flow.  At 5300 RPM and WOT in 1st gear, my MAF only
registers 170Gm/Sec airflow... 255 would be max for the unit.  If you were
to go with a bigger MAF, you'd require a re-write of your MAF tables
(Assuming it didn't measure the same exact freq per reading) to make it run
right.
For a turbocharger, contact Dave Buckshaw at EFIPERFORM@aol.com.
Later,
Dave



At 02:18 PM 11/2/98 -0600, you wrote:
>I have a 91 Bonneville with the Series I 3800.  I would like to put the older
>larger MAF from a "3" or 3.8L V6 on my engine to increase airflow.
Eventually add
>a turbocharger.
>
>The MAF I have now is the Hitachi, and has a small 25 mm air passage.  It
has a
>small 10 mm (approx) port to sensor air for the MAF itself.
>
>Can I swap these units?  What sort of output does the MAF has?  Is it a
constant
>voltage that varies with airflow, or is it a higher frequency output?
>
>(should I drag out the O-Scope to view?)
>
>Thanks!
>Thomas Martin
> 
===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

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> >The prom was laid out in a matrix of addresses of a specific word length.
> >To program them you specified an address and the "value" or the word.
> Every
> >bit which was a 1, the programmer would blow the fuse.
> 
> This is what I want to find out about  have seen maps etc but no idea how to
> read 'em
> Any books recommended
> need to be basic
> 
I have seemed to learn the most from the data sheets, go to some
semicond. manuf. web sites and down load.  Hands on
helps too.  For basic check out  basic stamp and there list.
If you get a burner, it should have detailed instructions.
alex 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 19:27:47 1998
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I was looking at some GM truck parts microfish, most models
have leaded parts for military and export, did not see any racing #'s 
In these situations a little brain damage is ok.
alex
> Anyone know of 4-wire sensor that is preferred due to its resistance to lead
> poisoning?  Search of local parts store turned up several Bosch P/N's LSH
> 22, 25 and 64.  They all appear the same, except for lead length and
> termination style.  Are there any other differences?   I heard the NTK used
> for Fords is especially resistant.  Where can I get these?
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 19:30:38 1998
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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 19:30:36 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: FW: Speeding Ticket Loophole!!!]
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Be careful... Some states/counties/cities can be hard-ass enough to
consider the extra money a bribe... Then you face a REALLY long jail
sentence.  How about traffic school?  Takes away the points *LEGALLY*


At 03:52 PM 11/2/98 -0600, you wrote:
>This sounds like the very best of jail house lawyering or Urban Myth
>crap, but it's worth a try!!
>
>THIS IS FOR USA ONLY
>
> I tried to pass this on to anyone I could think of. This procedure
>works in
>any state. Read it and try it, you have nothing to loose but the points
>in
>your license. If you get a speeding ticket or went through a red light
>or
>whatever  the case may be, and you are going to get points on your
>license,
>then there is a method to ensure that you DO NOT get any points.
>
> When you get your fine, send in the check to pay for it and if the fine
>is
>say $79, then make the check out for $82 or some small amount above the
>fine.
>
> The system will then have to send you back a check for the difference,
>but
>here is the trick!          ---DO NOT CASH THE CHECK!! Throw it away!
>
> Points are not assessed to your license until all the financial
>transactions are complete. If you do not cash the check, then the
>transactions are not complete.  However the system has gotten its money
>so
>it is happy and will not bother you any more.
> 
===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 19:34:02 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: TPS resistence
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-----Original Message-----
From: Tedscj@aol.com <Tedscj@aol.com>
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 7:19 PM
Subject: TPS resistence


The TPS is not just a variable resistor.  There are a couple components in
there.  +5 from ecm, dedicated groung to ecm, and sensor lead to ecm.
Don't share grounds or power other than as shown in the book.
Very careful if you need to bend the tang, to get the geometry right.
Cheers
Bruce


>I'm new to the list and I already have a question!
>THe question is : what resistence should a GM tps read at full throttle
>(turned @ 90 degrees)?
>The reason I ask is that I spent the whole afternoon trying to adapt and
>adjust a GM TPS to my throttle-body.  The manual I have says it should read
>between .45 and .85 volts at idle.  The problem I had was I couldnt get it
in
>that range.  I would move it slightly but it would jump from .2v to 1.0v.
>Also, It would read a different voltage every time the throttle came to its
>stop.  Finally, I got it to read .55v, but when I gave it full throttle (90
>degrees) it only read 1.98v instead of 4.5 - 5 v!
>Anyway, before I throw this TPS out and buy another one I want to be sure
its
>not my wiring, ECM, rig, etc. by measuring the resistence directly at the
>TPS(and not volts thru the ECM)
>Thanks for any help,
>Ted
>
>PS  Its a GM throttle shaft driven TPS (not the lever type) if that makes a
>difference.
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 19:54:37 1998
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Subject: Re: GM Trouble codes, Help Please
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>1.  What the heck is the EAS????  I can't find it documented
>anywhere!

    Got me.  The trouble code description in your shop manual should tell
you, though.

>2.  Where can I find more info about Quad Data Module (QDM)
>number 1?

    That's the "Quad Driver Module".  It is the part of the ECM that
actually controls outputs to such things as torque converter clutch, EGR
valve, etc.   There are several QDMs, each controlling four outputs (hence
the "Quad").  Sections 6 and 8 of your shop manual should contain the
information you are looking for, especially the pages devoted to those
particular trouble codes.

>3.  I'm suspicious about the Vehicle Speed Sensor.  The '95
>wiring harness connector didn't mate with the VSS on the
>'96 transmission.  I did wire them together without the plugs.
>Are these different?

    That would probably explain the "4k pulses per mile" code you are
getting.   The 96 B-body VSS may have different signal outputs than the 95
F-body.

  Anyone know a way to
>'repair' fouled/plugged/bad injectors????


    A cleaning/blueprinting may take care of it unless they are way too far
gone.


    I think it may be a pretty big task to get the OBDII engine to work well
with an unmodified non-OBDII computer.  I would suspect that many of the
sensors and output devices would have different values between the two
systems.

Soren Rounds


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 21:41:36 1998
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Bill the arcstarter wrote:

> List,
>  I've heard that most ECU's go into an open-loop condition while under
>
> WOT.  I've also heard this is because most O2 sensors read incorrectly
>
> under WOT conditions.

My 7747 stays closed loop at WOT but it does shut off learn mode at WOT
and during .80v and less TPS deceleration

--
Jason Weir
88 Wrangler - 258 Chevy TBI
Fayetteville, North Carolina
http://home.att.net/~jweir  --- Jeep Home Page
mailto:jweir@att.net



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 21:53:22 1998
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Thomas Martin wrote:
 
> I have a 91 Bonneville with the Series I 3800.  I would like to put the 
> older larger MAF from a "3" or 3.8L V6 on my engine to increase 
> airflow.  

Are you worried about the MAF's restriction?  Or measurement ability?
The '3' engine was NA wasn't it?  That MAF probably has limited 
measurement ability.  Never really looked at it's MAF tables.


> Eventually add a turbocharger.

Always fun.

 
> The MAF I have now is the Hitachi, and has a small 25 mm air passage.  
> It has a small 10 mm (approx) port to sensor air for the MAF itself.
> Can I swap these units? 

Not directly.  With MAF table and code mods you could.  Requires a lot
of understanding.  


> What sort of output does the MAF has?

It is a high freq MAF.  With a range about 400 to 10k Hz or so. (From 
memory...)  As I recall, the MAF tables max out at 170 gps.  Most all the
V-6 MAFs had similar peak airflows as I recall, except for the GN.

Scot Sealander    Sealand@clarityconnect.com


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 21:58:27 1998
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Will this '99 MAF work with a '165 ECM? 
I'm working on a 434 SBC (very over stroked 400 SBC). I'm concerned with the
flow capaciity  or ultimately the pressure drop accross the existing MAF which
came from a donor '87 350 Firebird.
Is the '165 a voltage or frequency output MAF?

Any suggestions?

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 22:33:29 1998
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: MAF
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>Thomas,
>The MAF is indeed a freq. generator.  After looking at my 95 LeSabre Series
>I 3800, a bigger MAF isn't necessary and may cause driveability problems...
> I have my exhaust opened up to 2 1/2" dia and a gutted cat, no resonator
>and a Walker Ultra-Flow.  At 5300 RPM and WOT in 1st gear, my MAF only
>registers 170Gm/Sec airflow... 255 would be max for the unit.  If you were
>to go with a bigger MAF, you'd require a re-write of your MAF tables
>(Assuming it didn't measure the same exact freq per reading) to make it run
>right.
>For a turbocharger, contact Dave Buckshaw at EFIPERFORM@aol.com.
>Later,
>Dave
>
170 Gm/sec works out to 300 cfm (and about 205 HP) (at sea level), which
works out to 84% or so VE--on the low side, which indicates a lot of
restriction from the MAF!  If the thing only has a 25 mm diameter throat,
your MAP at WOT can only get up to about 12.0 or 12.5 psia. (Basically ,
the MAF is throttling the engine!) Going to a much bigger MAF could
definitely help things, to the tune of another 6 to 12% power at the top
end. Doesn't much matter where you put corks in a system, things don't
really get freed up until you pull out the last cork. No way a 25 mm
orifice is NOT a serious CORK on a 3.8 l. engine---with one carb barrel per
cylinder (Webers) SIX 30 mm venturis would be pretty restrictive on a 3.8
l. 6 cyl.--I once built a Jag 4.2 (6) which ran FINE with SIX 42 (!) mm
chokes (one in each of the six bores of its 3 (48 mm throttle) Webers). If
one cannot run a MAF with a FAR bigger hole in it than this one (like at
least 60 mm) without getting "driveability problems", it is time to either
throw the  MAF's away and go with MAP injection, or go back to (GOOD)
carbs!!!>

Regards, Greg

>
>At 02:18 PM 11/2/98 -0600, you wrote:
>>I have a 91 Bonneville with the Series I 3800.  I would like to put the older
>>larger MAF from a "3" or 3.8L V6 on my engine to increase airflow.
>Eventually add
>>a turbocharger.
>>
>>The MAF I have now is the Hitachi, and has a small 25 mm air passage.  It
>has a
>>small 10 mm (approx) port to sensor air for the MAF itself.
>>
>>Can I swap these units?  What sort of output does the MAF has?  Is it a
>constant
>>voltage that varies with airflow, or is it a higher frequency output?
>>
>>(should I drag out the O-Scope to view?)
>>
>>Thanks!
>>Thomas Martin
>>
>===========================================================
>           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
>     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
>       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
>===========================================================



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xxalexx@ix.netcom.com wrote:

>  For basic check out  basic stamp and there list.

What/where is basic stamp???  Regards  Tom


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 23:43:08 1998
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While fiddling around with my ignition timing maps I've noted a
significant increase in the induction noise as I bring the timing up.
Over 3000r's, past the stock torque peak, the motor seems pretty
rattle-proof and I'm wondering if the timing is actually over advanced,
causing work to be done against the piston...

Timing at light load is up to 55 deg and WOT is no more than 40,
usually more like 34.

thanx,

MK


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 23:50:05 1998
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From: "soren" <soren@rio.com>
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>170 Gm/sec works out to 300 cfm (and about 205 HP) (at sea level), which
>works out to 84% or so VE--on the low side, which indicates a lot of
>restriction from the MAF!  If the thing only has a 25 mm diameter throat,
>your MAP at WOT can only get up to about 12.0 or 12.5 psia. (Basically ,
>the MAF is throttling the engine!)

    First of all, isn't the "95 3800 rated at about 205 HP? Second, after
working in a Buick garage for 4 years, I am pretty sure that MAF sensor is
not 25 mm in diameter!  I would say that any intake restrictions are mainly
the air filter box and intake runners.

Soren Rounds




From diy_efi-owner  Mon Nov  2 23:59:13 1998
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I'm trying to re-construct a 1991 GMC 2500 pickup with TBI.

The intake/TBI setup i bought for it (used) has the older
"lever type" TPS with the three-pins in a row connector,
same style as the MAP sensor connector (they look the same).

The harness i got from the dealer has the new-style (shaft
sticks into it) TPS with the three little pins in triangle
formation in a little round connector.

I looked through two service manuals (for vehicles with each
type of sensor) and wired on a connector for the kind of TPS
I have alongside the small connector.  the pins are ABC on
both connectors but the ref/signal/return pins were different.

I wired the new connector up properly as far as which signal
goes to which, but i need to know if the two sensors are
equivalent/compatible.  If the ECM is designed for the newer
style and i hook it up to the old style, will it work?
The old style has slotted screw holes for adjustment and
the new style TPS can't be adjusted.  Does anyone know?

thanks,
-jake
reply to: chickens@mail.utexas.edu


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 00:17:38 1998
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: MAF
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 22:18:55 -0700
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I have an 83mm ProM airmeter in a 3.0L Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 (twin turbo).
It is supposedly calibrated for 1000 cfm.  I also have larger blowers (404
cfm @15 psi each) but drivability (primarily off boost of course) is not an
issue.  20 psi boost performance is astounding.  The stock MAS was much much
smaller and with the new one I am sure that other areas are now the
restriction.

I would think that if this 3.8 will ultimately see a turbo a larger MAF is
doable.  75mm-77mm is being done on 2.0L DSMs mind you they are running much
higher boost.

The trick is being able to tune for it.  I am using the TRE MASC for this
purpose http://www.teamrip.com.  Works great so far.  The MASC comes in two
flavors, just the computer (adjusts frequency of the input signal from the
factory MAS) or computer + ProM airmeter.  In the latter configuration it
converts the voltage from the ProM to a frequency the stock ECU can
understand and adjusts the frequency to affect mixture changes.


Regards,

Barry
Not affililated with TRE other than as a customer ;)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Greg
> Hermann
> Sent: Monday, November 02, 1998 8:20 PM
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: MAF

> 170 Gm/sec works out to 300 cfm (and about 205 HP) (at sea level), which
> works out to 84% or so VE--on the low side, which indicates a lot of
> restriction from the MAF!  If the thing only has a 25 mm diameter throat,
> your MAP at WOT can only get up to about 12.0 or 12.5 psia. (Basically ,
> the MAF is throttling the engine!) Going to a much bigger MAF could
> definitely help things, to the tune of another 6 to 12% power at the top
> end. Doesn't much matter where you put corks in a system, things don't
> really get freed up until you pull out the last cork. No way a 25 mm
> orifice is NOT a serious CORK on a 3.8 l. engine---with one carb
> barrel per
> cylinder (Webers) SIX 30 mm venturis would be pretty restrictive on a 3.8
> l. 6 cyl.--I once built a Jag 4.2 (6) which ran FINE with SIX 42 (!) mm
> chokes (one in each of the six bores of its 3 (48 mm throttle) Webers). If
> one cannot run a MAF with a FAR bigger hole in it than this one (like at
> least 60 mm) without getting "driveability problems", it is time to either
> throw the  MAF's away and go with MAP injection, or go back to (GOOD)
> carbs!!!>
>
> Regards, Greg


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 00:21:28 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: loud motor = happy motor?
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 Michael Kent <mkent@polymail.cpunix.calpoly.edu>
To: diy_efi list <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 12:09 AM
Subject: loud motor = happy motor?


Such amounts of timing on a gas engine can really be hard
on ring lands and headgaskets, rod bearings.  
Bruce
Nice long set of velocity stacks on em + we called em cop callers.
>While fiddling around with my ignition timing maps I've noted a
>significant increase in the induction noise as I bring the timing up.
>Over 3000r's, past the stock torque peak, the motor seems pretty
>rattle-proof and I'm wondering if the timing is actually over advanced,
>causing work to be done against the piston...
>
>Timing at light load is up to 55 deg and WOT is no more than 40,
>usually more like 34.
>
>thanx,
>
>MK
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 00:25:15 1998
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Subject: Re: EFI
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-----Original Message-----
From: AJLegere@aol.com <AJLegere@aol.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 10:57 PM
Subject: Re: EFI


>Will this '99 MAF work with a '165 ECM?

Might be a whole lot less work to just change over to a 90-92 MAP.
Could go MAP with the 165 using the aussie 808 info..
Bruce

>I'm working on a 434 SBC (very over stroked 400 SBC). I'm concerned with
the
>flow capaciity  or ultimately the pressure drop accross the existing MAF
which
>came from a donor '87 350 Firebird.
>Is the '165 a voltage or frequency output MAF?
>
>Any suggestions?
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 00:31:22 1998
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Subject: Re: [Fwd: FW: Speeding Ticket Loophole!!!]
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On Mon, 2 Nov 1998, David A. Cooley wrote:

> Be careful... Some states/counties/cities can be hard-ass enough to
> consider the extra money a bribe... Then you face a REALLY long jail
> sentence.  How about traffic school?  Takes away the points *LEGALLY*
> 
> 
Pretty unlikely scenario, IMO. Dont forget, the gummint operates on the
expectation that people are at least as stupid as the gummint, so they
would hardly expect someone to be able to accomplish a task like this
logically. They are stupid, but not so stupid as to alienate their likely
supporters...



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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: TPS sensor compatibility???
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-----Original Message-----
From: Jake Sternberg <chickens@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 12:30 AM
Subject: TPS sensor compatibility???


Unless there is a three style I don't know about they will work.
Bruce    Easy check .4v idle >4.2v WOT should about do it.
>I'm trying to re-construct a 1991 GMC 2500 pickup with TBI.
>
>The intake/TBI setup i bought for it (used) has the older
>"lever type" TPS with the three-pins in a row connector,
>same style as the MAP sensor connector (they look the same).
>
>The harness i got from the dealer has the new-style (shaft
>sticks into it) TPS with the three little pins in triangle
>formation in a little round connector.
>
>I looked through two service manuals (for vehicles with each
>type of sensor) and wired on a connector for the kind of TPS
>I have alongside the small connector.  the pins are ABC on
>both connectors but the ref/signal/return pins were different.
>
>I wired the new connector up properly as far as which signal
>goes to which, but i need to know if the two sensors are
>equivalent/compatible.  If the ECM is designed for the newer
>style and i hook it up to the old style, will it work?
>The old style has slotted screw holes for adjustment and
>the new style TPS can't be adjusted.  Does anyone know?
>
>thanks,
>-jake
>reply to: chickens@mail.utexas.edu
>


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At 04:34 PM 11/2/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
>Does anyone know for sure which ecm connector pin is the cooling fan
>actuator for the 1227165? I have three manuals, all with different
>conflicting pinouts (D2, D12, C9,...???), and ecm which will not turn on
>the fan. I'd like to try to repair the bad ecm and thought someone might
>save me a few minutes of signal checking if they already knew the correct
>answer. Car is 86 vette. : )
>
>
>Hi 

	86 Camaro has fan on D2


Vance

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 01:21:53 1998
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 01:19:25 -0500
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Probably want to look into a micro controler that has much of that built in.
Take a look at Motorola's 68HC11 or a 68HC705 micro or National Semi's Cops
processor line.  They have many additional drivers/interface chips that allow
easy intergration of those functions without a rat's nest of wireing.

Derek Catterfeld

Sandy wrote:

> I have a  questions on that cabapilites of the PIC line of processors, here
> is what I'm looking to do hardware wise, might you think it can be done
> with a PIC and some additional hardware.
>
> LCD Display (probabally 4 bit interface)
> RS232 Interface
> 16 Outputs (via 2 74HC595's)
> 8 Inputs (via 74HC165)
> Input for a rotary encoder (2 inputs)
> 2K of  Data Storage User Programmable
> (Maybe 93C86 or 24C16 Serial EEPROM)
>
> What might I be looking at as far as PIC part. Looks like 3 serial devices,
> and 2 Input pins, and 2 I/O for RS/232. Is a configuration like this
> possible, comments etc.
>
> Thanks, Sandy


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 01:29:08 1998
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Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 22:32:47 -0800
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: PIC Questions
In-Reply-To: <363EA06D.4F7EBEF1@eos.ncsu.edu>
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Was looking at the HC11' but the PIC is lower cost and easier to get. Just
not needing the power of the HC11, just the i/o. Seems that several PIC's
have the same I/O capability so that makes is easy.

Sandy

At 01:19 AM 11/3/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Probably want to look into a micro controler that has much of that built in.
>Take a look at Motorola's 68HC11 or a 68HC705 micro or National Semi's Cops
>processor line.  They have many additional drivers/interface chips that allow
>easy intergration of those functions without a rat's nest of wireing.
>
>Derek Catterfeld
>
>Sandy wrote:
>
>> I have a  questions on that cabapilites of the PIC line of processors, here
>> is what I'm looking to do hardware wise, might you think it can be done
>> with a PIC and some additional hardware.
>>
>> LCD Display (probabally 4 bit interface)
>> RS232 Interface
>> 16 Outputs (via 2 74HC595's)
>> 8 Inputs (via 74HC165)
>> Input for a rotary encoder (2 inputs)
>> 2K of  Data Storage User Programmable
>> (Maybe 93C86 or 24C16 Serial EEPROM)
>>
>> What might I be looking at as far as PIC part. Looks like 3 serial devices,
>> and 2 Input pins, and 2 I/O for RS/232. Is a configuration like this
>> possible, comments etc.
>>
>> Thanks, Sandy
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 02:52:14 1998
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From: Mark Wilcutts <markw@vehicle.me.berkeley.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: O2 sensors at WOT?
In-Reply-To: <19981102212519.4737.qmail@hotmail.com>
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On Mon, 2 Nov 1998, Bill the arcstarter wrote:

>  I've heard that most ECU's go into an open-loop condition while under 
> WOT.  I've also heard this is because most O2 sensors read incorrectly 
> under WOT conditions.
> 
> Why is that?  Does the increased gas flow cool the O2 sensor down too 
> much or what?

Might be because WOT enrichment pegs the O2 sensor to the rich side.


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 03:20:24 1998
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> Was looking at the HC11' but the PIC is lower cost and easier to get. Just
> not needing the power of the HC11, just the i/o. Seems that several PIC's
> have the same I/O capability so that makes is easy.

I've looked at HC11 vs PIC too... kept coming back to the PIC.
I also looked at the PIC with more IO vs one with less IO with
some latches... the bigger PIC won easily (pin count!).  I have a PIC16C73
based data aquisition board... drives a character LCD and RS232.
I _didn't_ use the on-board AtoD, but used a Motorola 145051 10 bit
chip instead.  I had to do the serial by hand (but the assembler
macro capability is good - I should post the code).  Used the
interrupt on change inputs to aquire ignition timing - interesting
since this feature is buggy on the 16C73.  Picked up a couple
of duty cycles using the capture inputs...

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 03:59:03 1998
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 00:57:36 -0800
From: "jesse o'buzz" <tobuzz@jps.net>
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i'd like to say 'hello' from modesto ca and i look forward to being on
this list! my goal is to change the fuel injection [Bosch CIS] on my
volvo turbo to a GM sunbird turbo EFI...any ideas send a line!
-- 
-jesse o'buzz

1982 Volvo Estate GLT
     Cut muffler off / Air Box Mod
     Electric Fan    / lowered
     Alarm           / poly swaybar bushings
     Alpine Coax,2x10"JL subs, Kenwood cd & 3 Kenwood amps
     924 KYB rear Shocks [shorter]
     --- parts that i have, not on car  ---
     Intercooler
     Bilsteins IPD sport valved [need to be rebuilt]
     IPD lowering Springs
     16x7 BBS wheels / IPF driving lights
     740 intake      / 740 CBV
     Intercooler     / SAAB APC
     Grant Aero body kit
     Stainless steel brake lines
     '79GT Braces    / More Stereo Equip
     Side marker lights [AUDI]
     other stuff that i need to dig out

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 04:02:22 1998
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Subject: volvo turbo CIS ->Sunbird Turbo EFI?!
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hello,
  well i'd sure love it if someone would send me info on the turbo
sunbird ecm and wiring diagrams [or what-ever] i'd also like to know if
this car has a crank/cam postition sensor? and sensor locations and bar
on the MAP sensor, the throttle position resistance at WOT and other
info needed to transfer this ECM into my volvo [great car, can't stand
the CIS fuel injection!]


-- 
-jesse o'buzz

1982 Volvo Estate GLT
     Cut muffler off / Air Box Mod
     Electric Fan    / lowered
     Alarm           / poly swaybar bushings
     Alpine Coax,2x10"JL subs, Kenwood cd & 3 Kenwood amps
     924 KYB rear Shocks [shorter]
     --- parts that i have, not on car  ---
     Intercooler
     Bilsteins IPD sport valved [need to be rebuilt]
     IPD lowering Springs
     16x7 BBS wheels / IPF driving lights
     740 intake      / 740 CBV
     Intercooler     / SAAB APC
     Grant Aero body kit
     Stainless steel brake lines
     '79GT Braces    / More Stereo Equip
     Side marker lights [AUDI]
     other stuff that i need to dig out

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 04:25:45 1998
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References: <Pine.HPX.4.03.9811022028540.21727-100000@monet.artisan.calpoly.edu>
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As a genral rule as taught to me by my grandfather who was setting
ignitions by ear at the start of this century an over advanced ignition
always sounds more powerfull -- this could be partially explained (I think)
by the fact that it will pick up revs more quickly when reved out of gear.
On few cars I have come across (Lotus Elans which had only 20 crank
degrees of mechanical advance)   retarded igntion has caused pinking ---- I
suspect due to hot spots forming from excess rejected heat.




Michael Kent wrote:

> While fiddling around with my ignition timing maps I've noted a
> significant increase in the induction noise as I bring the timing up.
> Over 3000r's, past the stock torque peak, the motor seems pretty
> rattle-proof and I'm wondering if the timing is actually over advanced,
> causing work to be done against the piston...
>
> Timing at light load is up to 55 deg and WOT is no more than 40,
> usually more like 34.
>
> thanx,
>
> MK


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 04:37:33 1998
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Anyone have url for Diacom please
Thanks
Geoff


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 04:37:37 1998
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hello
maybe I been askin' wrong questions to learn 'bout proms
I got prom in my hand comes from same vehicle as mine (Australian)
What tools do I need to read what's in this?
What tools do I need to modify this?
the prom I have spare was replaced in service 'cause of a standard DTC
under warranty so I scored it PCM No 16176424
If I can just have a look inside this I'll have a starting point
TIA
Geoff


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 04:40:26 1998
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I was always told to regard 43 crank degrees as the absolute maxiumim
advance for the same reasons.
Andy MacF



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 06:00:32 1998
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Subject: RE: Diacom
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I do not have the address, but am also interested, more so in the =
physical interface module between the car and the PC serial port. Does =
anybody have a handdrawn schematic??

-----Original Message-----
From:	Geoff & Sue Richards [SMTP:geoffsue@one.net.au]
Sent:	Monday, November 02, 1998 4:27 PM
To:	Diy_Efi
Subject:	Diacom

Anyone have url for Diacom please
Thanks
Geoff

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UkU6IAAAAAADAA00/TcAADcD

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 06:06:50 1998
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From: "Roland Johansson" <scirocco@mail.bip.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: SV: PIC Questions
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 12:03:23 +0100
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Should be interesting if it is possible to get the codes for lcd
driver. I'm recently started to build an add-on-fueler to begin
with and don't want a pc for programming if it doesn't need.
Could be nice to programm it in car with a few buttons and a
lcd.



Roland Johansson
Scirocco 1,6l TIC -82
Http://hem.passagen.se/toker
scirocco@mail.bip.net


> BTW: I have working code for driving LCD displays (4-bit)...
unlike the
> Microchip App note code which usually doesn't work.
> 
> Orin.


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 06:50:19 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: MAF
In-Reply-To: <002d01be06e5$62895f40$5d7889d0@soren>
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At 08:49 PM 11/2/98 -0800, you wrote:
>
>    First of all, isn't the "95 3800 rated at about 205 HP? Second, after
>working in a Buick garage for 4 years, I am pretty sure that MAF sensor is
>not 25 mm in diameter!  I would say that any intake restrictions are mainly
>the air filter box and intake runners.

Mine's rated 170 HP... 95 LeSabre Vin L
I thought about it... 25mm is 1 inch... Never seen a MAF that small!
===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 07:40:21 1998
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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 07:39:25 EST
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Subject: Re: volvo turbo CIS ->Sunbird Turbo EFI?!
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Hi Jesse,
Ya probably wanna check out syty.org (download section) and get
Richard's PromGrammer software.  It is specifice to the Turbo sunbird,
Syclone & Typhoon...   The above cars use a two bar sensor, but
syty list members have been debugging a 3 bar chip that looks 
encouraging, if you like >16 psi..  You didn't mention an interrcooler.
HTH
Mike V.
>  well i'd sure love it if someone would send me info on the turbo
>  sunbird ecm and wiring diagrams [or what-ever] i'd also like to know if
>  this car has a crank/cam postition sensor? and sensor locations and bar
>  on the MAP sensor, the throttle position resistance at WOT and other
>  info needed to transfer this ECM into my volvo [great car, can't stand
>  the CIS fuel injection!]

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 08:18:27 1998
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 08:10:52 -0500
From: Francois Dion <francois@hyperreal.org>
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soren wrote:

> >170 Gm/sec works out to 300 cfm (and about 205 HP) (at sea level), which
> >works out to 84% or so VE--on the low side, which indicates a lot of
> >restriction from the MAF!  If the thing only has a 25 mm diameter throat,
> >your MAP at WOT can only get up to about 12.0 or 12.5 psia. (Basically ,
> >the MAF is throttling the engine!)
>
>     First of all, isn't the "95 3800 rated at about 205 HP? Second, after
> working in a Buick garage for 4 years, I am pretty sure that MAF sensor is
> not 25 mm in diameter!

He prolly meant 25mm radius... 50mm sounds about right on a car putting around
200hp.

Ciao,
Francois Dion (francois@hyperreal.org)
--
Member: FLU #1722, PCNA
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/zagato/101/launch.html
Alfa Romeo, Fiat, Lancia, Peugeot, Volvo, Solex



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 08:19:51 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: BEGINNER HELP
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-----Original Message-----
From: Geoff & Sue Richards <geoffsue@one.net.au>
To: Diy_Efi <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 6:01 AM
Subject: BEGINNER HELP


You need a prom editor "burner",  with that then once you 
find out what chip you have you can read it into a file.
In binfile will look like something like
           00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 0A 0B 0C 0D 0E 0F
0000  00 BD49 43 69 82 19 58 37 97 AA BD EF0F BB CC
0001
0002
There's mor on that in the archives in programming 101
Cheers
Bruce

>maybe I been askin' wrong questions to learn 'bout proms
>I got prom in my hand comes from same vehicle as mine (Australian)
>What tools do I need to read what's in this?
>What tools do I need to modify this?
>the prom I have spare was replaced in service 'cause of a standard DTC
>under warranty so I scored it PCM No 16176424
>If I can just have a look inside this I'll have a starting point
>TIA
>Geoff
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 08:31:09 1998
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Subject: Re: volvo turbo CIS ->Sunbird Turbo EFI?!
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-----Original Message-----
From: jesse o'buzz <tobuzz@jps.net>
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 4:32 AM
Subject: volvo turbo CIS ->Sunbird Turbo EFI?!


>  well i'd sure love it if someone would send me info on the turbo
>sunbird ecm and wiring diagrams [or what-ever] i'd also like to know if
>this car has a crank/cam postition sensor?

Use the 1227749 gm ecm

The programing info you want is at www.syty.com or org I get them
mixed up.  Uses a Dissy, diagrams are at 332 FTP.

 and sensor locations and bar
>on the MAP (2 some folks working on 3) sensor, the throttle position
resistance at WOT  (not resistance voltage) and other
>info needed to transfer this ECM into my volvo [great car, can't stand
>the CIS fuel injection!]
>--
>-jesse o'buzz
>
>1982 Volvo Estate GLT
>     Cut muffler off / Air Box Mod
>     Electric Fan    / lowered
>     Alarm           / poly swaybar bushings
>     Alpine Coax,2x10"JL subs, Kenwood cd & 3 Kenwood amps
>     924 KYB rear Shocks [shorter]
>     --- parts that i have, not on car  ---
>     Intercooler
>     Bilsteins IPD sport valved [need to be rebuilt]
>     IPD lowering Springs
>     16x7 BBS wheels / IPF driving lights
>     740 intake      / 740 CBV
>     Intercooler     / SAAB APC
>     Grant Aero body kit
>     Stainless steel brake lines
>     '79GT Braces    / More Stereo Equip
>     Side marker lights [AUDI]
>     other stuff that i need to dig out
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 08:43:38 1998
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From: "ron.boley" <ron.boley@worldnet.att.net>
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Geoff,

There are a few problems that you need to surmount to get at your data
tables.  The location of data (Tables) in a EEPROM, EPROM or FLASH
device is dependent on the designer of the controller.  While these
devices have address lines (the number varies with the device size: 2 to
n power) engineers do not have to use them sequentially (A0, A1, A2,
A3...).  Some may break the device into sections to keep their code or
functionality seperate.

You'll have to located the data sheets for the device(s) that you are
trying to read.  I would suspect that these are have been manufactured
in bulk for the controller manufacturer and have their part numbers and
identification logo'd on them.  Makes it hard to know what you've got...

I would initially assume that the controller designer used the
EEPROM/EPROM/FLASH device in a logical fashion so there are no
partitions or segments.  Then you'd need to dump the contents and look
it over hoping to find sections/data that made sense to you. 

Overall its not intuitive but a big guessing game.  Pays to get
assistance from those who have been there before.

Ron

Geoff & Sue Richards wrote:
> 
> <snip>
> 
> >The prom was laid out in a matrix of addresses of a specific word length.
> >To program them you specified an address and the "value" or the word.
> Every
> >bit which was a 1, the programmer would blow the fuse.
> 
> This is what I want to find out about  have seen maps etc but no idea how to
> read 'em
> Any books recommended
> need to be basic
> 
> >These were very cheap compared to EPROMS but were definitely one shot
> >devices.  Programming changes required new PROM chips.  Hope that helps.
> Cheers
> Geoff

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 08:47:35 1998
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From: "Jim Sloan" <leroy@sunflower.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Diacom
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 07:47:32 -0600
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http://www.mcs.net/~rinda/auto.htm

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Geoff & Sue
> Richards
> Sent: Monday, November 02, 1998 8:27 AM
> To: Diy_Efi
> Subject: Diacom
> 
> 
> Anyone have url for Diacom please
> Thanks
> Geoff
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 09:09:19 1998
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In a message dated 11/3/98 4:10:36 AM Eastern Standard Time, tobuzz@jps.net
writes:

<< k/cam postition sensor? and sensor locations and bar
 on the MAP sensor, the throttle position resistance at WOT and other
 info needed to transfer this ECM into my volvo [great car, can't stand
 the CIS fuel injection!] >>

I'm not sure what year car you have but if its a 240 by chance, thats a
chrysl;er derived ECM and maybe theres software you can modify thaere.

Jim

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In a message dated 11/3/98 8:04:49 AM Eastern Standard Time,
n5xmt@bellsouth.net writes:

<<     First of all, isn't the "95 3800 rated at about 205 HP? Second, after
 >working in a Buick garage for 4 years, I am pretty sure that MAF sensor is
 >not 25 mm in diameter!  I would say that any intake restrictions are mainly
 >the air filter box and intake runners.
 
 Mine's rated 170 HP... 95 LeSabre Vin L
 I thought about it... 25mm is 1 inch... Never seen a MAF that small! >>

Actually, if you look inside, the sampling area is only that large. The hot
wire is in its own "tunnel" If thats what the guy meant.

Jim

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 09:26:20 1998
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Is there an inexpensive way to make a PC simulate a chip, say a prom reader
that passes through a PC on the way to the ECM. You load the rom code into the
PC, and the PC simulates a prom., that you could modify parameters to see what
they do in real time, then when you get something you like, save the profile
and burn it back at the shop? I guess this is kind of like DFi with out the
DFI? You know what I'm asking? Cuz I'm no programmer, and would LIKE to learn,
just not guessing on a value and burning a new chip every 10 minutes just to
see what a mod will do.

Jim

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Tom Sharpe wrote:
> 
> xxalexx@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> 
> >  For basic check out  basic stamp and there list.
> 
> What/where is basic stamp???  Regards  Tom

http://www.parallaxinc.com

Jack



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-> this list! my goal is to change the fuel injection [Bosch CIS] on my
-> volvo turbo to a GM sunbird turbo EFI...any ideas send a line!

<scratches head>

 Uh, did I miss the joke?  Why would you want to do that?

- Dave "K-Jetronic" Williams
                                                                               

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 09:57:56 1998
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        "RE: Diacom" (Nov  3, 12:59pm)
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It actually uses the parallel port, not serial, and the interface is
proprietary.  That's how they achieve their copy protection as well.

On Nov 3, 12:59pm, Carlo Putter wrote:
> Subject: RE: Diacom
>
> [ text/plain
>   Encoded with "quoted-printable" ] :
>
> I do not have the address, but am also interested, more so in the physical
interface module between the car and the PC serial port. Does anybody have a
handdrawn schematic??
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Geoff & Sue Richards [SMTP:geoffsue@one.net.au]
> Sent:	Monday, November 02, 1998 4:27 PM
> To:	Diy_Efi
> Subject:	Diacom
>
> Anyone have url for Diacom please
> Thanks
> Geoff
>
> [ Attachment (application/ms-tnef): 2797 bytes
>   Encoded with "base64" ]
>-- End of excerpt from Carlo Putter



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        "Diacom" (Nov  3,  1:27am)
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http://www.mcs.net/~rinda/home.html

On Nov 3,  1:27am, Geoff & Sue Richards wrote:
> Subject: Diacom
> Anyone have url for Diacom please
> Thanks
> Geoff
>-- End of excerpt from Geoff & Sue Richards



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------ =_NextPart_000_01BE074B.CCC29B40
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
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Hi

Basically what you need is an EPROM programmer (and reader) to read an =
EPROM. Another feature of most of these programmers is that they can =
program/read the code in microcontrollers like the Microchip PICs and =
ATMEL chips.

I have seen some kits/projects on building an EPROM programmer in the =
ETI magazine, Electronics Austrailia magazine, and most proberly any =
elctronics magazine has featured an EPROM programmer/reader/simulator.

In order to reprogram an EPROM you have to erase it. This is done by =
means of Ultra violet light. (EPROM eraser).

If you actually want to modify the data in the chip you first of all =
have to read it. Secondly you have to know what you want to modify and =
where this data is situated in the EPROM. If you kow all this data you =
have to figure out what each of the values mean. Then you can edit the =
EPROM data with an HEXadecimal editor. Finaly you can reprogram the =
erased EPROM and see whether you have created an explosion.

Hope this solves most of your questions.

Cheers
Carlo Putter
Stellenbosch
South Africa

-----Original Message-----
From:	Geoff & Sue Richards [SMTP:geoffsue@one.net.au]
Sent:	Monday, November 02, 1998 6:02 PM
To:	Diy_Efi
Subject:	BEGINNER HELP

hello
maybe I been askin' wrong questions to learn 'bout proms
I got prom in my hand comes from same vehicle as mine (Australian)
What tools do I need to read what's in this?
What tools do I need to modify this?
the prom I have spare was replaced in service 'cause of a standard DTC
under warranty so I scored it PCM No 16176424
If I can just have a look inside this I'll have a starting point
TIA
Geoff

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 11:08:42 1998
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	 Tue, 3 Nov 1998 17:08:25 +0100
From: "Roland Johansson" <scirocco@mail.bip.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: SV: [Fwd: FW: Speeding Ticket Loophole!!!]
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 15:02:03 +0100
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Seems like this story goes thruu several mailing lists at the
moment. Have seen it twice before in last week. Might work for
you in US, have no idea but might be more like a e-mail virus.



Roland Johansson
Scirocco 1,6l TIC -82
Http://hem.passagen.se/toker


> This sounds like the very best of jail house lawyering or
Urban Myth
> crap, but it's worth a try!!
> 
> THIS IS FOR USA ONLY
> 
>  I tried to pass this on to anyone I could think of. This
procedure
> works in
> any state. Read it and try it, you have nothing to loose but
the points
> in
> your license. If you get a speeding ticket or went through a
red light
> or
> whatever  the case may be, and you are going to get points on
your
> license,
> then there is a method to ensure that you DO NOT get any
points.
> 
>  When you get your fine, send in the check to pay for it and
if the fine
> is
> say $79, then make the check out for $82 or some small amount
above the
> fine.
> 
>  The system will then have to send you back a check for the
difference,
> but
> here is the trick!          ---DO NOT CASH THE CHECK!! Throw
it away!
> 
>  Points are not assessed to your license until all the
financial
> transactions are complete. If you do not cash the check, then
the
> transactions are not complete.  However the system has gotten
its money
> so
> it is happy and will not bother you any more.



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 11:22:19 1998
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From: "Bill the arcstarter" <arcstarter@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Beginner's links
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It was written:
>If you actually want to modify the data in the chip you first of all 
have 
>to read it. Secondly you have to know what you want to modify and 
>where this data is situated in the EPROM. If you kow all this data 
>you have to figure out what each of the values mean. Then you can 
>edit the EPROM data with an HEXadecimal editor. Finaly you can 
>reprogram the erased EPROM and see whether you have created 
>an explosion.

Yes.  Two links off the diy_efi page have some excellent introductory 
information on this process.  I learned a lot by reading through these 
links:

http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/diy_efi/oem/gm/prog_101.html
http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/diy_efi/oem/gm/tunetip.html

Also -be advised there may be a checksum calculation to be performed and 
programmed into the eprom prior to running it.  One of the above links 
has info on that too!

-Bill


______________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 11:27:17 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: PIC Questions
In-Reply-To: <199811030820.AAA10227@gonzo.wolfenet.com>
References: <199811030629.WAA28648@mail.wgn.net>
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Another reason for the PIC is that I have not done one yet! So I have an
easy project and can get with it now...

Sandy

At 12:20 AM 11/3/98 -0800, you wrote:
>
>> Was looking at the HC11' but the PIC is lower cost and easier to get. Just
>> not needing the power of the HC11, just the i/o. Seems that several PIC's
>> have the same I/O capability so that makes is easy.
>
>I've looked at HC11 vs PIC too... kept coming back to the PIC.
>I also looked at the PIC with more IO vs one with less IO with
>some latches... the bigger PIC won easily (pin count!).  I have a PIC16C73
>based data aquisition board... drives a character LCD and RS232.
>I _didn't_ use the on-board AtoD, but used a Motorola 145051 10 bit
>chip instead.  I had to do the serial by hand (but the assembler
>macro capability is good - I should post the code).  Used the
>interrupt on change inputs to aquire ignition timing - interesting
>since this feature is buggy on the 16C73.  Picked up a couple
>of duty cycles using the capture inputs...
>
>Orin.
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 11:27:37 1998
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From: "soren" <soren@rio.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: MAF
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 08:27:18 -0800
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 I am pretty sure that MAF sensor is
> >not 25 mm in diameter!
>
> Mine's rated 170 HP... 95 LeSabre Vin L
> I thought about it... 25mm is 1 inch... Never seen a MAF that small! >>
>
>Actually, if you look inside, the sampling area is only that large. The hot
>wire is in its own "tunnel" If thats what the guy meant.



    The gentelman who posted the question about the Buick "25mm" MAF sensor
actually mentioned the size of the sampling area as well; I don't believe
that could be anywhere close to 25 mm, though.  Aren't the sampling tunnels
usually less than 10mm?

Soren


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 11:32:18 1998
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From: "Bill the arcstarter" <arcstarter@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: weird question I think
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Jim wrote:
>Is there an inexpensive way to make a PC simulate a chip, say a prom 
reader
>that passes through a PC on the way to the ECM. You load the rom code 
into the
>PC, and the PC simulates a prom., that you could modify parameters to 
see what

Yea, look for something called a ROM emulator.  Its a box with a cable 
coming out one end which attaches to your ECU (or whatever).  You 
download the ROM code image into this box and off you go!  But I'm not 
sure how much time this will actually save, and they usually aren't too 
cheap either.

-Bill

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 11:32:46 1998
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From: "soren" <soren@rio.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: volvo turbo CIS ->Sunbird Turbo EFI?!
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 08:32:28 -0800
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 Turbo sunbird,
>Syclone & Typhoon...   The above cars use a two bar sensor, but
>syty list members have been debugging a 3 bar chip that looks
>encouraging, if you like >16 psi

    Some fellow Isuzu owners were looking for a 3 bar conversion for their
17psi Impulses (Delco ECM).  If you can tell me where to go to get
information specific to this 3 bar setup, I would appreciate it.

Soren Rounds


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 11:40:43 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: 1227746 ECM
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 10:40:09 -0600 
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Thanks for the advice, I'll stick with the 7747. Where could I get a 350
auto PROM for a 7747, I'm helping convert a 1981 
Chevy truck to TBI. The ECM I have now is a 7747 ATKX from a 1990 Astro Van
4.3L V6 . 

 
Thanks for the help. 
 
Don










	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Bruce Plecan [SMTP:nacelp@bright.net]
	Sent:	Monday, November 02, 1998 3:46 PM
	To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
	Subject:	Re: 1227746 ECM


	-----Original Message-----
	From: Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com <Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com>
	To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
	Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 4:06 PM
	Subject: 1227746 ECM


	>I found a 7746 ECM ( ACDW)  at the local U-Pull- IT .   The donor
car was a
	>4.3L TBI 1987 Grand Prix this set up seems to be the same as a 1987
Astro
	>Van with a 7747 ECM  are the ECM's plug and play ?

	You really need to get a wiring diagram out, and look.  There are
	sometimes small but meaningful changes from ecm to ecm.  They
	are not the same.  In the passenger car versions they use a IAT.
	Also, the tables will be moved around some I beleive.  If you want
	to tinker with a 747 you need to have a 747.  Some of the advanced
	guys can play some games with adapations, but if your just starting
	out learn the baxics first.

	I would also appreciate
	>some help
	>With downloading Bin files, Can a PROM be burned from the data in
the
	Bin's.

	When the correct corresponding parts are used, yes.
	>?
	>
	>Thanks
	>
	>Don
	>

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 11:54:18 1998
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From: "Dupree, Robert A." <rdupree@Sidley.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: NO EFI Content - Looking for other aftermarket steering wheel com
	panies asside from MOMO
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 10:53:37 -0600 
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Anyone out there got WWW sites or manufacturer names for companies producing
aftermarket steering wheels asside from MOMO?  Need to get rid of the
pizza-dish inside both the Audi, and the Volvo.

Bob Dupree

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 12:09:49 1998
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 11:09:33 -0600
From: Steve Ravet <steve.ravet@arm.com>
Organization: ARM, Inc.
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Geoff & Sue Richards wrote:
> 
> Is this the correct address for the ftp site?
> 
> ftp://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/pub/efi332/
> Cheers
> GEoff

That's one address.  Most of the "stuff" on the ftp site is in
/incoming.  As I get time, I look at what's in there and move it to
someplace in /pub/diy_efi or /pub/efi332 as appropriate.  I also add it
to the ftp site index to make it easier to see what's been uploaded.  ie
all the .bin files have been moved to /pub/diy_efi

The only directory that stuff can be uploaded to is /incoming.  The
others are read-only.

--steve

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 12:24:18 1998
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From: Kevin Vannorsdel <kv@us.ibm.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: TPS Idle Voltage
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 I recently had to replace my TPS on a TBI 350  (1227747).

Got an aftermarket TPS from Tomco.  This thing is real nice because it has
slotted mounting holes allowing for easy adjustment!

It cost me 45 bucks.

KV@us.ibm.com


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 13:36:25 1998
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: MAF
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>soren wrote:
>
>> >170 Gm/sec works out to 300 cfm (and about 205 HP) (at sea level), which
>> >works out to 84% or so VE--on the low side, which indicates a lot of
>> >restriction from the MAF!  If the thing only has a 25 mm diameter throat,
>> >your MAP at WOT can only get up to about 12.0 or 12.5 psia. (Basically ,
>> >the MAF is throttling the engine!)
>>
>>     First of all, isn't the "95 3800 rated at about 205 HP? Second, after
>> working in a Buick garage for 4 years, I am pretty sure that MAF sensor is
>> not 25 mm in diameter!
>
>He prolly meant 25mm radius... 50mm sounds about right on a car putting around
>200hp.

I would agree--that amount of air-flor through a 25 mm hole would not be
particularly within the realm of possibility for making 200 HP.-- But I
will maintain that a 60 or 65 mm diameter MAF should give a substantial
boost in top end performance over a 50mm (if that is what it really is) for
an engine of this size with the other stated flow enhancements (bigger
exhausts, etc.) If the available MAF instruments are not sensitive enough
to give usable and repeatable readings with this much of a size increase,
they DO deserve to be on the junk pile!!

Another, possibly dangerous, thought: has anyone thought of running TWO
throttle bodies (acting in progression, like the primaries and secondaries
of a four-barrel carb, with TWO MAF's?? (maybe even a stock size primary,
and a larger secondary one?? This would indeed be an interesting electronic
project--come up with a way to combine the outputs from two, progressively
used MAF's into an input which a (nearly) stock ecu would accept as if it
had come from a stock single MAF sensor!! No deterioration at all in bottom
end response or mixture control, and gobs more airflow whenever one cared
to ask for it!!

Regards, Greg
>
>Ciao,
>Francois Dion (francois@hyperreal.org)
>--
>Member: FLU #1722, PCNA
>http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/zagato/101/launch.html
>Alfa Romeo, Fiat, Lancia, Peugeot, Volvo, Solex



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 13:39:33 1998
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Subject: Re: SV: [Fwd: FW: Speeding Ticket Loophole!!!]
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>Seems like this story goes thruu several mailing lists at the
>moment. Have seen it twice before in last week. Might work for
>you in US, have no idea but might be more like a e-mail virus.
>
So maybe the Gummint will catch it, with hopefully bad effects!>
>
>> This sounds like the very best of jail house lawyering or
>Urban Myth
>> crap, but it's worth a try!!
>>



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 13:52:14 1998
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From: "Stowe, Ted-SEA" <StowT@PerkinsCoie.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 747 ecm ? Vs 1226867
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 10:52:22 -0800 
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howdy.

I am putting around putting the pieces together to put my 85 sunbird TBI in
my mg, however I worry about the fact that I see more dialog here about the
'747 ECU than the one I have, 1226867(4cyl). should I scrap my ECU and go
find a 747 and have someone program a prom for me for 4 cyl  ? or stand pat
with what I have ? I liked the illusion of safety in that it came from a 1.8
liter engine and I now have the manual trans eprom in it. I would think the
'747 wouldn't know about my particular throttle body ?

thanks, Ted Stowe

-----Original Message-----
From: Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com [mailto:Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 8:40 AM
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: 1227746 ECM


Thanks for the advice, I'll stick with the 7747. Where could I get a 350
auto PROM for a 7747, I'm helping convert a 1981 
Chevy truck to TBI. The ECM I have now is a 7747 ATKX from a 1990 Astro Van
4.3L V6 . 

 
Thanks for the help. 
 
Don










	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Bruce Plecan [SMTP:nacelp@bright.net]
	Sent:	Monday, November 02, 1998 3:46 PM
	To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
	Subject:	Re: 1227746 ECM


	-----Original Message-----
	From: Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com <Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com>
	To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
	Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 4:06 PM
	Subject: 1227746 ECM


	>I found a 7746 ECM ( ACDW)  at the local U-Pull- IT .   The donor
car was a
	>4.3L TBI 1987 Grand Prix this set up seems to be the same as a 1987
Astro
	>Van with a 7747 ECM  are the ECM's plug and play ?

	You really need to get a wiring diagram out, and look.  There are
	sometimes small but meaningful changes from ecm to ecm.  They
	are not the same.  In the passenger car versions they use a IAT.
	Also, the tables will be moved around some I beleive.  If you want
	to tinker with a 747 you need to have a 747.  Some of the advanced
	guys can play some games with adapations, but if your just starting
	out learn the baxics first.

	I would also appreciate
	>some help
	>With downloading Bin files, Can a PROM be burned from the data in
the
	Bin's.

	When the correct corresponding parts are used, yes.
	>?
	>
	>Thanks
	>
	>Don
	>

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 13:54:35 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 1227746 ECM
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 13:57:49 -0500
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-----Original Message-----
From: Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com <Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 1:06 PM
Subject: RE: 1227746 ECM


>Thanks for the advice, I'll stick with the 7747. Where could I get a 350
>auto PROM for a 7747,

While waiting to get the chip burning stuff, just go to gm and ask
for a prom that is about close to what you have.
Bruce

 I'm helping convert a 1981
>Chevy truck to TBI. The ECM I have now is a 7747 ATKX from a 1990 Astro Van
>4.3L V6 .
>
>
>Thanks for the help.
>
>Don
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Plecan [SMTP:nacelp@bright.net]
> Sent: Monday, November 02, 1998 3:46 PM
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: 1227746 ECM
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com <Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
><diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 4:06 PM
> Subject: 1227746 ECM
>
>
> >I found a 7746 ECM ( ACDW)  at the local U-Pull- IT .   The donor
>car was a
> >4.3L TBI 1987 Grand Prix this set up seems to be the same as a 1987
>Astro
> >Van with a 7747 ECM  are the ECM's plug and play ?
>
> You really need to get a wiring diagram out, and look.  There are
> sometimes small but meaningful changes from ecm to ecm.  They
> are not the same.  In the passenger car versions they use a IAT.
> Also, the tables will be moved around some I beleive.  If you want
> to tinker with a 747 you need to have a 747.  Some of the advanced
> guys can play some games with adapations, but if your just starting
> out learn the baxics first.
>
> I would also appreciate
> >some help
> >With downloading Bin files, Can a PROM be burned from the data in
>the
> Bin's.
>
> When the correct corresponding parts are used, yes.
> >?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Don
> >
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 14:24:48 1998
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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 14:23:58 EST
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In a message dated 11/3/98 12:45:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, soren@rio.com
writes:

>   Some fellow Isuzu owners were looking for a 3 bar conversion for their
>  17psi Impulses (Delco ECM).  If you can tell me where to go to get
>  information specific to this 3 bar setup, I would appreciate it.
>  
I believe the person(s) involved want to thouroughly test the chip before
considering any website release..  The 7749 ECM is different from the 
Isuzu box... I'm sure of that..
Mike V

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 14:29:51 1998
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From: Steve Ravet <steve.ravet@arm.com>
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References: <199811030629.WAA28648@mail.wgn.net> <199811031627.IAA09703@mail.wgn.net>
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Sandy wrote:
> 
> Another reason for the PIC is that I have not done one yet! So I have an
> easy project and can get with it now...

Sandy, the digikey catalog usually has a good chart that lists how many
uarts, a/ds, io lines, etc. each PIC part has.

Digikey also sells two cheapo programming kits.  Stay away from them,
and get the picstart-plus kit instead.  The cheapo ones are only for a
few specific PICs, and the software is ancient.  The new picstart
software is great, but it won't talk to the cheapo programmers.  I
started a project a while back with a PIC, first real hardware project
ever, and was really surprised at how well it all worked.  I'm sold on
PICs.

--steve

> 
> Sandy
> 
> At 12:20 AM 11/3/98 -0800, you wrote:
> >
> >> Was looking at the HC11' but the PIC is lower cost and easier to get. Just
> >> not needing the power of the HC11, just the i/o. Seems that several PIC's
> >> have the same I/O capability so that makes is easy.
> >
> >I've looked at HC11 vs PIC too... kept coming back to the PIC.
> >I also looked at the PIC with more IO vs one with less IO with
> >some latches... the bigger PIC won easily (pin count!).  I have a PIC16C73
> >based data aquisition board... drives a character LCD and RS232.
> >I _didn't_ use the on-board AtoD, but used a Motorola 145051 10 bit
> >chip instead.  I had to do the serial by hand (but the assembler
> >macro capability is good - I should post the code).  Used the
> >interrupt on change inputs to aquire ignition timing - interesting
> >since this feature is buggy on the 16C73.  Picked up a couple
> >of duty cycles using the capture inputs...
> >
> >Orin.
> >

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 14:31:41 1998
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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 14:30:42 EST
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I don't show another intercangable ECM for that number..
Mike V

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 15:05:22 1998
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 14:05:01 -0600
From: Joe Boucher <BoucherJC@lmtas.lmco.com>
Subject: [Fwd: [M] [M} IC Thermodynamics]- Part 3
To: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
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I have some more design thoughts on the SVO/TC Intercooler.  Allan
Slocam was
kind enough to provide me with a couple of papers that Ford submitted to
the
SAE back in the mid 80's.  One of them makes a SWAG statement that 70%
intercooler effectiveness was assumed.  The other one states that "The
final
intercooler design resulted in a unit that showed the lowest induction
temperatures during WOT acceleration and the fastest recovery to
stabilized
temperatures".

Basically my thoughts are "What a crock!"  Ford intended for the
intercooler
to work in a surge mode.  Now, I know that doesn't come as shock to any
of us
performance minded 2.3 Turbo owners.  However, I have continued my work
on
modeling the thermodynamic performance of the TC/SVO IC's and , indeed,
I
can't see any way for it to work short of being a thermal mass.

One of the major issues is the amount of air flow to the unit.  On an
87-88
TC, the hood scoop openings are approximately 1" x 5" and there are 2 of
them.
This gives about 10 square inches of opening.  If we base this on a car
going
45 mph or 66 ft/sec then with no entrance or duct work losses, the max
air
flow through the IC is only 275 cfm.

This is important because of cross flow correction to the LMTD.  This
may also
be difficult to explain.  If you refer to my post on October 19, I
calculated
inlet and outlet air temps for both sides of the unit assuming discharge

manifold air was cooled to 120F.  (One unfortunate problem with doing
heat
exchanger design by the methods of 20 years ago is that you have to
assume
temps and then back calculate to see if you can get there,-- Its called
an
iterative solution).

My October 19 post used 500cfm air flow to the IC and got a corrected
Log Mean
Temperature Difference of 61.36F.  Redoing that for an outside air flow
of 275
cfm generates some very different answers.

Compressor side:

Inlet Temp = 302F   T1
Exit Temp  = 120F   T2

Air Side

Inlet Temp = 80F   t1
Exit temp  = 260F  t2

LMTD = ((T1-t2)-(T2-t1))/ln((T1-t2)/(T2-t1))

T1-t2 =42
T2-t1 =40
t2-t1 =180
T1-t1 =222

LMTD = (42-40)/ln(42/40) = 41F

Correcting for unmixed crossflow
S= (t2-t1)/(T1-t1) = .81
R= (T1-T2)/(t2-t1) = 1.01
The correction curves in figure 16.17 in Process Heat Transfer By Donald

Kearns don't have this point on the charts.  The charts only go down to
a .6
correction factor and the curves go vertical as they approach this
point.  The
correction factor probably is in the neighborhood of .3.  That would
give us
an LMTD of 12.3F.

I know, Can I say that in English?  Gonna Be tough.

With that driving temperature difference, and CFM flowrate, the
intercooler
would have to be about the size of the engine compartment.  The assumed
heat
rejection is too high for 275 cfm air side flow.  We need to choose a
different operating point.

To make a long story short, I think that the TC/SVO IC with 275 cfm air
flow
will only cool the intake charge to approximately 200F on an 80F day.
Remember, that is based on 18 psi boost and 20.24 lb/min air flow.  The
saving
grace is the thermal mass of the intercooler.  If we assume a thermal
mass of
5lbs, then the temperature of the unit will increase by approximately
70F
during a 7 second 0-60 run.  The air flow to the unit will only allow it
to
recover from a 0-60 burst over several minutes.

I am not showing the calculations for heat transfer coefficients because
they
occupy several pages and I doubt that very many people have the
background to
understand them.  They are also heavily based on charts and curves in my
heat
exchanger design books.  Email me privately if you want them.

I'm really not saying anything new here.  The TC/SVO IC is in a horrible
place
for cooling of an air to air unit.  No amount of ducting or fans can
change
the performance of the unit appreciably.  Please, no flames saying that
everyone already know this.  I took on this project to do an Engineering

evaluation of the stock TC intercooler versus a front mounted air to air

versus a liquid to air.  I'm still working on the others.

Obviuosly, an Air to Air unit MUST be placed where it can get good air
flow.

Obviously, the liquid to air rejection unit must be placed where it can
get
EVEN MORE air flow.

More to come later.

Don




From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 15:15:06 1998
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To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 747 ecm ? Vs 1226867
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-----Original Message-----
From: Stowe, Ted-SEA <StowT@PerkinsCoie.com>
To: 'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 2:53 PM
Subject: 747 ecm ? Vs 1226867


>howdy.
>
>I am putting around putting the pieces together to put my 85 sunbird TBI in
>my mg, however I worry about the fact that I see more dialog here about the
>'747 ECU than the one I have, 1226867(4cyl). should I scrap my ECU and go
>find a 747 and have someone program a prom for me for 4 cyl  ? or stand pat
>with what I have ?

There is no 4 cyl application of the 7747 ecm.  No wiring diagram
of what it would look like.  The 730+165 have been used in 4 cyl
TBI but use 128+256K proms.  Long term is probably best with
what ya have.

 I liked the illusion of safety in that it came from a 1.8
>liter engine and I now have the manual trans eprom in it. I would think the
>'747 wouldn't know about my particular throttle body ?
>
>thanks, Ted Stowe
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com [mailto:Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 8:40 AM
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject: RE: 1227746 ECM
>
>
>Thanks for the advice, I'll stick with the 7747. Where could I get a 350
>auto PROM for a 7747, I'm helping convert a 1981
>Chevy truck to TBI. The ECM I have now is a 7747 ATKX from a 1990 Astro Van
>4.3L V6 .
>
>
>Thanks for the help.
>
>Don
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Plecan [SMTP:nacelp@bright.net]
> Sent: Monday, November 02, 1998 3:46 PM
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: 1227746 ECM
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com <Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
><diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 4:06 PM
> Subject: 1227746 ECM
>
>
> >I found a 7746 ECM ( ACDW)  at the local U-Pull- IT .   The donor
>car was a
> >4.3L TBI 1987 Grand Prix this set up seems to be the same as a 1987
>Astro
> >Van with a 7747 ECM  are the ECM's plug and play ?
>
> You really need to get a wiring diagram out, and look.  There are
> sometimes small but meaningful changes from ecm to ecm.  They
> are not the same.  In the passenger car versions they use a IAT.
> Also, the tables will be moved around some I beleive.  If you want
> to tinker with a 747 you need to have a 747.  Some of the advanced
> guys can play some games with adapations, but if your just starting
> out learn the baxics first.
>
> I would also appreciate
> >some help
> >With downloading Bin files, Can a PROM be burned from the data in
>the
> Bin's.
>
> When the correct corresponding parts are used, yes.
> >?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Don
> >
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 15:16:04 1998
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 12:04:24 -0800
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: PIC Questions
In-Reply-To: <363F598C.15BC4F8@arm.com>
References: <199811030629.WAA28648@mail.wgn.net>
 <199811031627.IAA09703@mail.wgn.net>
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Funny that you bring it up I am looking at the Digikey cat right now!

Thanks
Sandy

At 01:29 PM 11/3/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Sandy wrote:
>> 
>> Another reason for the PIC is that I have not done one yet! So I have an
>> easy project and can get with it now...
>
>Sandy, the digikey catalog usually has a good chart that lists how many
>uarts, a/ds, io lines, etc. each PIC part has.
>
>Digikey also sells two cheapo programming kits.  Stay away from them,
>and get the picstart-plus kit instead.  The cheapo ones are only for a
>few specific PICs, and the software is ancient.  The new picstart
>software is great, but it won't talk to the cheapo programmers.  I
>started a project a while back with a PIC, first real hardware project
>ever, and was really surprised at how well it all worked.  I'm sold on
>PICs.
>
>--steve
>
>> 
>> Sandy
>> 
>> At 12:20 AM 11/3/98 -0800, you wrote:
>> >
>> >> Was looking at the HC11' but the PIC is lower cost and easier to get.
Just
>> >> not needing the power of the HC11, just the i/o. Seems that several
PIC's
>> >> have the same I/O capability so that makes is easy.
>> >
>> >I've looked at HC11 vs PIC too... kept coming back to the PIC.
>> >I also looked at the PIC with more IO vs one with less IO with
>> >some latches... the bigger PIC won easily (pin count!).  I have a PIC16C73
>> >based data aquisition board... drives a character LCD and RS232.
>> >I _didn't_ use the on-board AtoD, but used a Motorola 145051 10 bit
>> >chip instead.  I had to do the serial by hand (but the assembler
>> >macro capability is good - I should post the code).  Used the
>> >interrupt on change inputs to aquire ignition timing - interesting
>> >since this feature is buggy on the 16C73.  Picked up a couple
>> >of duty cycles using the capture inputs...
>> >
>> >Orin.
>> >
>
>-- 
>Steve Ravet
>steve.ravet@arm.com
>Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
>www.arm.com
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 15:18:39 1998
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 12:22:20 -0800
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: PIC Questions
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Are the PIC16C6X the same as the 16C7X except for the lack of the A/D
converter? 

Sandy



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Howday all

I have used all 3 tps interchangeably.

Just make sure the right wires go to the right place.

Also the large adjustable TPS is the best.
Only thing is you should set it regardless whether or
not the ecm autozeros.

:peter



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 17:00:08 1998
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From: Jemison Richard <JemisonR@tce.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 16:59:56 -0500 
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Thanks Bill.  Very helpful sites.  Spent much of the afternoon looking both
them over.  It's gonna take another reread ...... or two. ha!

Rick


> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Bill the arcstarter [SMTP:arcstarter@hotmail.com]
> Sent:	Tuesday, November 03, 1998 11:22 AM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Beginner's links
> 
> It was written:
> >If you actually want to modify the data in the chip you first of all 
> have 
> >to read it. Secondly you have to know what you want to modify and 
> >where this data is situated in the EPROM. If you kow all this data 
> >you have to figure out what each of the values mean. Then you can 
> >edit the EPROM data with an HEXadecimal editor. Finaly you can 
> >reprogram the erased EPROM and see whether you have created 
> >an explosion.
> 
> Yes.  Two links off the diy_efi page have some excellent introductory 
> information on this process.  I learned a lot by reading through these 
> links:
> 
> http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/diy_efi/oem/gm/prog_101.html
> http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/diy_efi/oem/gm/tunetip.html
> 
> Also -be advised there may be a checksum calculation to be performed and 
> programmed into the eprom prior to running it.  One of the above links 
> has info on that too!
> 
> -Bill
> 
> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 17:38:14 1998
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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 17:40:41 -0500
Subject: Re: SV: [Fwd: FW: Speeding Ticket Loophole!!!]
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All I know is that my local gummint states "No Refunds"





"Roland Johansson" <scirocco@mail.bip.net> on 11/03/98 09:02:03 AM

Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
                                                              
                                                              
                                                              
 To:      diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu                   
                                                              
 cc:                                                          
                                                              
                                                              
                                                              
 Subject: SV: [Fwd: FW: Speeding Ticket Loophole!!!]          
                                                              








Seems like this story goes thruu several mailing lists at the
moment. Have seen it twice before in last week. Might work for
you in US, have no idea but might be more like a e-mail virus.



Roland Johansson
Scirocco 1,6l TIC -82
Http://hem.passagen.se/toker


> This sounds like the very best of jail house lawyering or
Urban Myth
> crap, but it's worth a try!!
>
> THIS IS FOR USA ONLY
>
>  I tried to pass this on to anyone I could think of. This
procedure
> works in
> any state. Read it and try it, you have nothing to loose but
the points
> in
> your license. If you get a speeding ticket or went through a
red light
> or
> whatever  the case may be, and you are going to get points on
your
> license,
> then there is a method to ensure that you DO NOT get any
points.
>
>  When you get your fine, send in the check to pay for it and
if the fine
> is
> say $79, then make the check out for $82 or some small amount
above the
> fine.
>
>  The system will then have to send you back a check for the
difference,
> but
> here is the trick!          ---DO NOT CASH THE CHECK!! Throw
it away!
>
>  Points are not assessed to your license until all the
financial
> transactions are complete. If you do not cash the check, then
the
> transactions are not complete.  However the system has gotten
its money
> so
> it is happy and will not bother you any more.






From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 17:57:59 1998
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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: PIC Questions
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 17:57:46 -0500 
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For us novices, could you briefly explain what a PIC is exactly and describe
(manufacturer / model / part#) the board you mention.  Also a brief
explanation of why you would prefer the PIC board to the HC11 (assuming you
could find an HC11 board).

Thanks

Rick

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Orin Eman [SMTP:orin@WOLFENET.com]
> Sent:	Tuesday, November 03, 1998 3:20 AM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: PIC Questions
> 
> 
> > Was looking at the HC11' but the PIC is lower cost and easier to get.
> Just
> > not needing the power of the HC11, just the i/o. Seems that several
> PIC's
> > have the same I/O capability so that makes is easy.
> 
> I've looked at HC11 vs PIC too... kept coming back to the PIC.
> I also looked at the PIC with more IO vs one with less IO with
> some latches... the bigger PIC won easily (pin count!).  I have a PIC16C73
> based data aquisition board... drives a character LCD and RS232.
> I _didn't_ use the on-board AtoD, but used a Motorola 145051 10 bit
> chip instead.  I had to do the serial by hand (but the assembler
> macro capability is good - I should post the code).  Used the
> interrupt on change inputs to aquire ignition timing - interesting
> since this feature is buggy on the 16C73.  Picked up a couple
> of duty cycles using the capture inputs...
> 
> Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 18:42:49 1998
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The diameter of the engine code "C" throttle body valve (Not the overall MAF) is
about 25 mm, maybe 35 mm at the max.  The sampling area is rather small, guess is
10 mm, may be smaller, can't get my finger into it (assuming one would
try....<g>).  Very small.  My old 1991 Lumina 3.1L ("T") had a MUCH larger throttle
body valve.  It was the same as the Q-Jet secondary.  Not MAF, Speed Density.  3800
would eat it alive in the top end, but the 3.1L would hold its own 0-50.

The "L" engine is very different on the top end, the intake is the "Tuned Port FI",
the "C" is the deviant like the "3" and the GN motors.  The "C" engine has the
newer heads.  (Like the Turbo 3.8L Trans AM??)

I know it is the Hitachi MAF, and it seem to me very small.  I will try to get an
accurate measurement of it tonight.  My motor is the 165 hp version.  Last year for
the 3800 "C".  The "L" motor showed up in Buick in 91, and the rest of the carlines
that used it in 92.  Then in 1995, the 3800 Series II (205 hp) showed up.  I drove
one, very sweet!  Leave mine behind!

Thomas Martin

Greg Hermann wrote:

> >soren wrote:
> >
> >> >170 Gm/sec works out to 300 cfm (and about 205 HP) (at sea level), which
> >> >works out to 84% or so VE--on the low side, which indicates a lot of
> >> >restriction from the MAF!  If the thing only has a 25 mm diameter throat,
> >> >your MAP at WOT can only get up to about 12.0 or 12.5 psia. (Basically ,
> >> >the MAF is throttling the engine!)
> >>
> >>     First of all, isn't the "95 3800 rated at about 205 HP? Second, after
> >> working in a Buick garage for 4 years, I am pretty sure that MAF sensor is
> >> not 25 mm in diameter!
> >
> >He prolly meant 25mm radius... 50mm sounds about right on a car putting around
> >200hp.
>
> I would agree--that amount of air-flor through a 25 mm hole would not be
> particularly within the realm of possibility for making 200 HP.-- But I
> will maintain that a 60 or 65 mm diameter MAF should give a substantial
> boost in top end performance over a 50mm (if that is what it really is) for
> an engine of this size with the other stated flow enhancements (bigger
> exhausts, etc.) If the available MAF instruments are not sensitive enough
> to give usable and repeatable readings with this much of a size increase,
> they DO deserve to be on the junk pile!!
>
> Another, possibly dangerous, thought: has anyone thought of running TWO
> throttle bodies (acting in progression, like the primaries and secondaries
> of a four-barrel carb, with TWO MAF's?? (maybe even a stock size primary,
> and a larger secondary one?? This would indeed be an interesting electronic
> project--come up with a way to combine the outputs from two, progressively
> used MAF's into an input which a (nearly) stock ecu would accept as if it
> had come from a stock single MAF sensor!! No deterioration at all in bottom
> end response or mixture control, and gobs more airflow whenever one cared
> to ask for it!!
>
> Regards, Greg
> >
> >Ciao,
> >Francois Dion (francois@hyperreal.org)
> >--
> >Member: FLU #1722, PCNA
> >http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/zagato/101/launch.html
> >Alfa Romeo, Fiat, Lancia, Peugeot, Volvo, Solex


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 19:47:23 1998
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Sandy and other EFIers,

Take a look at the Circuit Cellar website
[http://www.circuitcellar.com/].  It is a magazine dedicated to embedded
control.  I can be found on larger magazine stands.  They focus on PIC's
and other microcontrollers.  There are projects, programs and tools in
each issue.  Although its not automotive focused it might be a source of
tools and education for some.

Ron

Sandy wrote:
> 
> Another reason for the PIC is that I have not done one yet! So I have an
> easy project and can get with it now...
> 
> Sandy
> 
> At 12:20 AM 11/3/98 -0800, you wrote:
> >
> >> Was looking at the HC11' but the PIC is lower cost and easier to get. Just
> >> not needing the power of the HC11, just the i/o. Seems that several PIC's
> >> have the same I/O capability so that makes is easy.
> >
> >I've looked at HC11 vs PIC too... kept coming back to the PIC.
> >I also looked at the PIC with more IO vs one with less IO with
> >some latches... the bigger PIC won easily (pin count!).  I have a PIC16C73
> >based data aquisition board... drives a character LCD and RS232.
> >I _didn't_ use the on-board AtoD, but used a Motorola 145051 10 bit
> >chip instead.  I had to do the serial by hand (but the assembler
> >macro capability is good - I should post the code).  Used the
> >interrupt on change inputs to aquire ignition timing - interesting
> >since this feature is buggy on the 16C73.  Picked up a couple
> >of duty cycles using the capture inputs...
> >
> >Orin.
> >

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 19:51:51 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: RE: PIC Questions
In-Reply-To: <5D6B33A38300D211AC9B00609748B226FF4B68@tceis3.indy.tce.com
 >
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The PIC is a very simple RISC processor that is good for lots of control type
of applications (lots of other things to). They are inexpensive, and the tools
are low cost. Lots of I/O depending on the model. Limitations in my mind are
memory and not having a traditional 'Bus'. The bad also makes them very good
for smaller projects. The HC11 is a more traditional CPU, lots of I/O easy to
add boat loads of memory, but has the added expense of having too! PIC's are
finding their way into everything, and seem like easy to gets started. The PIC
and HC11 boards are pretty plentyful, with a bit lower cost to the PIC. The
choice would have to be based on cost, size, and how much memory. Their are
lots of addon's for the PIC, but they sort of defeat the simpicity of it.
So my
choice would be base on can I do it with just the PIC by itself, if I have to
get a bunch of special addons' I would go with the HC11. Both have similar on
chip functionality, I think the HC11 has some more advanced subsystems
available, supports interrupts, can run a rtos, etc.

2 Cent...


Sandy

At 05:57 PM 11/3/98 -0500, you wrote:
>For us novices, could you briefly explain what a PIC is exactly and describe
>(manufacturer / model / part#) the board you mention.  Also a brief
>explanation of why you would prefer the PIC board to the HC11 (assuming you
>could find an HC11 board).
>
>Thanks
>
>Rick
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Orin Eman [SMTP:orin@WOLFENET.com]
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 3:20 AM
>> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>> Subject: Re: PIC Questions
>> 
>> 
>> > Was looking at the HC11' but the PIC is lower cost and easier to get.
>> Just
>> > not needing the power of the HC11, just the i/o. Seems that several
>> PIC's
>> > have the same I/O capability so that makes is easy.
>> 
>> I've looked at HC11 vs PIC too... kept coming back to the PIC.
>> I also looked at the PIC with more IO vs one with less IO with
>> some latches... the bigger PIC won easily (pin count!).  I have a PIC16C73
>> based data aquisition board... drives a character LCD and RS232.
>> I _didn't_ use the on-board AtoD, but used a Motorola 145051 10 bit
>> chip instead.  I had to do the serial by hand (but the assembler
>> macro capability is good - I should post the code).  Used the
>> interrupt on change inputs to aquire ignition timing - interesting
>> since this feature is buggy on the 16C73.  Picked up a couple
>> of duty cycles using the capture inputs...
>> 
>> Orin.
>  

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 20:13:11 1998
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Michael Kent wrote:

> While fiddling around with my ignition timing maps I've noted a
> significant increase in the induction noise as I bring the timing up.
> Over 3000r's, past the stock torque peak, the motor seems pretty
> rattle-proof and I'm wondering if the timing is actually over advanced,
> causing work to be done against the piston...
>
> Timing at light load is up to 55 deg and WOT is no more than 40,
> usually more like 34.
>
> thanx,
>
> MK

  I see 45-48 at light cruse but 34 at WOT and my system is on the ragged
edge of detonation. EGR may allow more advance...

Regards  Tom


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 20:18:37 1998
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From: "Bill the arcstarter" <arcstarter@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: PIC Questions
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It was written:
>For us novices, could you briefly explain what a PIC is exactly and 
describe
>(manufacturer / model / part#) the board you mention.  Also a brief
>explanation of why you would prefer the PIC board to the HC11 (assuming 
you
>could find an HC11 board).

PICs are made by Microchip Technologies, url = http://www.microchip.com 
.  They are usually small cheap simple RISC-ish processors which include 
onboard ram, timers, uarts, etc.  Not all models have all options.

Most PICs have no external address/data us, but are instead chock full 
of i/o lines which can be used for all sorts of things.

I've been fooling with these critters for a couple of years, and I can 
only summarize them by saying that "They are neat"!

For the beginner, the typical part to choose would be the 16C84 or 
16F84.  These guys have some eeprom (64 bytes) on the inside and the 
program memory is completely flash.  Typical home-style development 
involves "crash and burn", where the chip is pulled from the target 
board, reprogrammed (takes about 20 secs) and reinserted for a try.  
This part also has an on-board timer, interrupts, watchdog, low power 
sleep mode, 13 i/o lines (any combo of input/output), anti-pilfer code 
protection, in-circuit programming and other stuff like that.

The assembly language is a bit cryptic, but not bad for a person already 
experienced in that particular art.  All instructions (except for 
branches) execute in exactly 1 clock cycle.  "C" and/or BASIC 
development systems are available but I don't know where.  You can clock 
the little beggars up to (I think) 10-20 Megahertz.  Not bad for a $6 
part!  Digikey sell them too.

Anyone out there using any decent in-circuit emulators, other than 
microchip's $3000 Pro-Mate system?  I'm looking for something to help me 
develop for other non-flash parts, and I hate the UV-erase technique...  
There was some sort of ICE-PIC box - which would supposedly let you 
program and run in-circuit at realtime clock rates.  Anyone seen or 
using one of these systems?

Of course the Atmel AVRs are rather equivalent and fully flash... :)

Thanks.
-Bill



______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 20:45:06 1998
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Subject: Re: PIC Questions
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> For us novices, could you briefly explain what a PIC is exactly and describe

This has now been well covered!

> (manufacturer / model / part#) the board you mention.  Also a brief

Manufacturer: me
Model: "the data aq board"
Part #: don't have one ;)

It's an Audi 5 cylinder turbo engine specific board, though it could
be adapted to other Bosch engine management systems.  It aquires
ignition timing, a couple of duty cycles, 3 temperatures via
thermocouples and some analog values.  These are displayed on
an LCD (2x20) and dumped to serial.

> explanation of why you would prefer the PIC board to the HC11 (assuming you
> could find an HC11 board).

Advantage to the PIC is that you need no external components other than
a crystal and a couple of caps to make it run.  HC11 needs RAM at least
(onboard probably not enough) and probably EPROM for final program.
Thats two 28 pin or so chips as well as the CPU.  Yes, there are HC11s
with onboard EEPROM, but it is too small to be really useful for code.

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 20:45:40 1998
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 20:45:36 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: 95 LeSabre PCM
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Well, Uploaded a better version of the .jpg of my PCM to the Incoming
directory...
It's still called GM-P6-PCM.jpg, but I added labels with delco part numbers
to the chips.
I'm going to try to look at pinouts and see where address and data lines
all go and see if I can't identify them better that way.  I found a
gentleman at Delco that says he may be able to get descriptions of what
each chip is, but I'm not counting on it... So far all other questions to
them have been answered with "That's none of your business, that's all
proprietary technology".
Later,
Dave

===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 20:51:34 1998
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FWIW, Microchip periodically puts the Picstart Plus on sale for
~ $150, usually in conjunction with their seminars. Check their
site for dates.
Digi-Key had them on sale last Xmas for $150.
Additionally there are people 
selling previous revision units for ~ $100. You can upgrade them by
purchasing a 17C4X/JW ($15), and downloading the latest software from
Microchip's site.

Jack

Steve Ravet wrote:

> and get the picstart-plus kit instead.



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 21:21:09 1998
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Thanks Sandy.  Could you give me a couple of PIC types to get me started and
a supplier?

Rick

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Sandy [SMTP:sganz@wgn.net]
> Sent:	Tuesday, November 03, 1998 7:56 PM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	RE: PIC Questions
> 
> The PIC is a very simple RISC processor that is good for lots of control
> type
> of applications (lots of other things to). They are inexpensive, and the
> tools
> are low cost. Lots of I/O depending on the model. Limitations in my mind
> are
> memory and not having a traditional 'Bus'. The bad also makes them very
> good
> for smaller projects. The HC11 is a more traditional CPU, lots of I/O easy
> to
> add boat loads of memory, but has the added expense of having too! PIC's
> are
> finding their way into everything, and seem like easy to gets started. The
> PIC
> and HC11 boards are pretty plentyful, with a bit lower cost to the PIC.
> The
> choice would have to be based on cost, size, and how much memory. Their
> are
> lots of addon's for the PIC, but they sort of defeat the simpicity of it.
> So my
> choice would be base on can I do it with just the PIC by itself, if I have
> to
> get a bunch of special addons' I would go with the HC11. Both have similar
> on
> chip functionality, I think the HC11 has some more advanced subsystems
> available, supports interrupts, can run a rtos, etc.
> 
> 2 Cent...
> 
> 
> Sandy
> 
> At 05:57 PM 11/3/98 -0500, you wrote:
> >For us novices, could you briefly explain what a PIC is exactly and
> describe
> >(manufacturer / model / part#) the board you mention.  Also a brief
> >explanation of why you would prefer the PIC board to the HC11 (assuming
> you
> >could find an HC11 board).
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Rick
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Orin Eman [SMTP:orin@WOLFENET.com]
> >> Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 3:20 AM
> >> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> >> Subject: Re: PIC Questions
> >> 
> >> 
> >> > Was looking at the HC11' but the PIC is lower cost and easier to get.
> >> Just
> >> > not needing the power of the HC11, just the i/o. Seems that several
> >> PIC's
> >> > have the same I/O capability so that makes is easy.
> >> 
> >> I've looked at HC11 vs PIC too... kept coming back to the PIC.
> >> I also looked at the PIC with more IO vs one with less IO with
> >> some latches... the bigger PIC won easily (pin count!).  I have a
> PIC16C73
> >> based data aquisition board... drives a character LCD and RS232.
> >> I _didn't_ use the on-board AtoD, but used a Motorola 145051 10 bit
> >> chip instead.  I had to do the serial by hand (but the assembler
> >> macro capability is good - I should post the code).  Used the
> >> interrupt on change inputs to aquire ignition timing - interesting
> >> since this feature is buggy on the 16C73.  Picked up a couple
> >> of duty cycles using the capture inputs...
> >> 
> >> Orin.
> >  

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From: Jemison Richard <JemisonR@tce.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: PIC Questions
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 21:21:30 -0500 
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Thanks Ron.  I'll check that out.

rick

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	ron.boley [SMTP:ron.boley@worldnet.att.net]
> Sent:	Tuesday, November 03, 1998 7:47 PM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: PIC Questions
> 
> Sandy and other EFIers,
> 
> Take a look at the Circuit Cellar website
> [http://www.circuitcellar.com/].  It is a magazine dedicated to embedded
> control.  I can be found on larger magazine stands.  They focus on PIC's
> and other microcontrollers.  There are projects, programs and tools in
> each issue.  Although its not automotive focused it might be a source of
> tools and education for some.
> 
> Ron
> 
> Sandy wrote:
> > 
> > Another reason for the PIC is that I have not done one yet! So I have an
> > easy project and can get with it now...
> > 
> > Sandy
> > 
> > At 12:20 AM 11/3/98 -0800, you wrote:
> > >
> > >> Was looking at the HC11' but the PIC is lower cost and easier to get.
> Just
> > >> not needing the power of the HC11, just the i/o. Seems that several
> PIC's
> > >> have the same I/O capability so that makes is easy.
> > >
> > >I've looked at HC11 vs PIC too... kept coming back to the PIC.
> > >I also looked at the PIC with more IO vs one with less IO with
> > >some latches... the bigger PIC won easily (pin count!).  I have a
> PIC16C73
> > >based data aquisition board... drives a character LCD and RS232.
> > >I _didn't_ use the on-board AtoD, but used a Motorola 145051 10 bit
> > >chip instead.  I had to do the serial by hand (but the assembler
> > >macro capability is good - I should post the code).  Used the
> > >interrupt on change inputs to aquire ignition timing - interesting
> > >since this feature is buggy on the 16C73.  Picked up a couple
> > >of duty cycles using the capture inputs...
> > >
> > >Orin.
> > >

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 21:30:48 1998
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Subject: Re: [Fwd: [M] [M} IC Thermodynamics]- Part 3
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 18:30:26 -0800
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>Obviuosly, an Air to Air unit MUST be placed where it can get good air
>flow.
>
>Obviously, the liquid to air rejection unit must be placed where it can
>get
>EVEN MORE air flow.
>
>More to come later.


    It sounds like you have this whole thing thought out very well, so I
hestitate to make my meager suggestion.  A friend of mine who owns an Isuzu
Impulse (which has a top-mounted intercooler) has rigged up a device to
spray ice water onto the IC.  There is a switch mounted on the shifter used
to energize the pump when he is deep into the boost; he says there is a
noticeable difference in power when using it (probably due to less pinging),
especially going uphill.
    Obviously this solution doesn't work too well for long-distance driving,
but at the dragstrip or at a hillclimb it seems to be an economical solution
to the low airflow problem.

Soren


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 21:33:08 1998
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 20:34:16 -0600
From: Tom Sharpe <twsharpe@mtco.com>
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Joe Boucher wrote:

> I have some more design thoughts on the SVO/TC Intercooler

> I'm really not saying anything new here.  The TC/SVO IC is in a horrible
> place for cooling of an air to air unit.  No amount of ducting or fans can
>
> change the performance of the unit appreciably.  Please, no flames saying
> that
> everyone already know this.  I took on this project to do an Engineering
> evaluation of the stock TC intercooler versus a front mounted air to air
> versus a liquid to air.  I'm still working on the others.
>
> Obviuosly, an Air to Air unit MUST be placed where it can get good air
> flow.
>
> Obviously, the liquid to air rejection unit must be placed where it can
> get
> EVEN MORE air flow.
>
> More to come later.
>
> Don

Keeping the engine inlet air under 200 deg. under steady state conditions
with high boost requires a huge a/a intercooler and more air than you can
imagine... more than the radiator.  Using water and a heat sink in an a/w
intercooler reduces the size requirements as long as you don't need full
throttle for very long. If you can live with 200+ degrees air temp, engine
water can be used effectively, just double the radiator capacity. Just look
at an 18 wheeler with a 3406.

A more cost efficient use (cheap) is to cool the turbo with water/alcohol
injection into the turbo inlet. The turbo really atomizes the liquid,
causing it to evaporate rapidly, absorbing a lot of heat and volume, thus
reducing boost, which the turbo promptly replaces. This is very efficient
for street thrillers that don't need more than 10 seconds worth of WOT.

Net result is that if you need continuous boost, you need an air to water
intercooler. If not, you are just spinning your wheels (at least I hope so).

Regards  Tom


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 21:39:41 1998
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From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
To: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: O2 sensors at WOT?
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 21:40:43 -0500
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> > man's gas analyzer could be constructed using one heated (to measure O2) 
> > and one unheated to measure hydrocarbons, etc???
> 
> No.  What the report said (I read it) was that NO O2 sensor senses O2
> at the temperatures that they operate at.  They sense hydrocarbons
> only.  The temperature required for them to sense O2 was much higher
> than the O2 sensor in a normal exhaust stream was supposed to be

I had always heard, but never tested, that the O2 sensor reads *lean*
under conditions of a rich misfire, due to lots of O2 in the exhaust.
Sounds like this would be an easy test to see if the O2 sensor is
really responding to O2 or HC. Comments? Maybe I need to go yank off
a plug wire...

   Chris C.


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 21:41:39 1998
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>> Points are not assessed to your license until all the financial
transactions are complete. If you do not cash the check, then the
transactions are not complete.  However the system has gotten its money so
it is happy and will not bother you any more.

Bull.

The points go on the record as soon as the final date passes without the
payment being received and DEPOSITED AND CLEARED in the bank...and then a
WARRANT for your arrest goes out, too!

Steve


--------------E6F09F74467D4007094569E6--


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 21:43:25 1998
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From: Jemison Richard <JemisonR@tce.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: PIC Questions
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 21:43:15 -0500 
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I've had a quick look out on the micromint page and they've got some
neat stuff out there.  A couple of elementary questions.  They have
"modules" like Domino and Picstix
then they have RTC (stackable board level systems like the RTC-HC11 with a
clock speed of 8mhz.

Will an 8mhz hc11 like this do the job of diy efi along with electronic
ignition / timing control?  Are these
items I'm describing the PICs you are talking about (or at least similar)?

Sorry for the elementary questions but you have to start somewhere!

Rick

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Sandy [SMTP:sganz@wgn.net]
> Sent:	Tuesday, November 03, 1998 7:56 PM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	RE: PIC Questions
> 
> So my
> choice would be base on can I do it with just the PIC by itself, if I have
> to
> get a bunch of special addons' I would go with the HC11. Both have similar
> on
> chip functionality, I think the HC11 has some more advanced subsystems
> available, supports interrupts, can run a rtos, etc.
> 
> 2 Cent...
> 
> 
> Sandy
> 
> At 05:57 PM 11/3/98 -0500, you wrote:
> >For us novices, could you briefly explain what a PIC is exactly and
> describe
> >(manufacturer / model / part#) the board you mention.  Also a brief
> >explanation of why you would prefer the PIC board to the HC11 (assuming
> you
> >could find an HC11 board).
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Rick
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 21:47:56 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 95 LeSabre PCM
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-----Original Message-----
From: David A. Cooley <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 9:24 PM
Subject: 95 LeSabre PCM


Dam fine craftmanship
Bruce


>Well, Uploaded a better version of the .jpg of my PCM to the Incoming
>directory...
>It's still called GM-P6-PCM.jpg, but I added labels with delco part numbers
>to the chips.
>I'm going to try to look at pinouts and see where address and data lines
>all go and see if I can't identify them better that way.  I found a
>gentleman at Delco that says he may be able to get descriptions of what
>each chip is, but I'm not counting on it... So far all other questions to
>them have been answered with "That's none of your business, that's all
>proprietary technology".
>Later,
>Dave
>
>===========================================================
>           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
>     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
>       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be
approximated.
>===========================================================
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 21:47:56 1998
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In a message dated 11/3/98 9:37:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, twsharpe@mtco.com
writes:

> A more cost efficient use (cheap) is to cool the turbo with water/alcohol
>  injection into the turbo inlet. The turbo really atomizes the liquid,
>  causing it to evaporate rapidly, absorbing a lot of heat and volume, thus
>  reducing boost, which the turbo promptly replaces. This is very efficient
>  for street thrillers that don't need more than 10 seconds worth of WOT.
>  
I went this route several year ago, and had problems with the alchohol/water
mix having an "abrasive" effect on the compressor wheel.  I would not do it 
again.  BUT I have never seen pistons so sparking clean at teardown time,
as with water injection.
HTH
Mike V.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 21:57:12 1998
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From: "Jon" <Galadar@worldnet.att.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: EFI
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    This is an idea I had some time back. How much is known about the 808?
Enough to tune for a mild 350? Any ideas on a pinout at the ecm (ie what
changes need to be made to MAF harness)? I DON'T have a eprom burner or the
skills to burn my own chips (yet), but am willing to learn, and I have a
project car begging for this conversion. Thanks for ANY input.
Jon

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 1:31 AM
Subject: Re: EFI


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: AJLegere@aol.com <AJLegere@aol.com>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 10:57 PM
>Subject: Re: EFI
>
>
>>Will this '99 MAF work with a '165 ECM?
>
>Might be a whole lot less work to just change over to a 90-92 MAP.
>Could go MAP with the 165 using the aussie 808 info..
>Bruce
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 22:02:11 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: RE: PIC Questions
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 >
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Check out the microchip site and you will see all that is made. I was just
up and downloaded the datasheets for the16c63 series. They have an overview
of each part so you can browse around and see what each has.

Sandy

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 22:05:32 1998
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Only problem with the micromint is they are expensive. Check out NMIX (I
think) they have a bunch of low cost HC11 boards, I have one that has lots
of good stuff, keyboard ctrl, lcd interface, RS232/422, prototype area,
software. Around 129 buck as I recall. Also check nuts and volts or other
electronic rags, lots of em'.

Sandy

At 09:43 PM 11/3/98 -0500, you wrote:
>I've had a quick look out on the micromint page and they've got some
>neat stuff out there.  A couple of elementary questions.  They have
>"modules" like Domino and Picstix
>then they have RTC (stackable board level systems like the RTC-HC11 with a
>clock speed of 8mhz.
>
>Will an 8mhz hc11 like this do the job of diy efi along with electronic
>ignition / timing control?  Are these
>items I'm describing the PICs you are talking about (or at least similar)?
>
>Sorry for the elementary questions but you have to start somewhere!
>
>Rick
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From:	Sandy [SMTP:sganz@wgn.net]
>> Sent:	Tuesday, November 03, 1998 7:56 PM
>> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>> Subject:	RE: PIC Questions
>> 
>> So my
>> choice would be base on can I do it with just the PIC by itself, if I have
>> to
>> get a bunch of special addons' I would go with the HC11. Both have similar
>> on
>> chip functionality, I think the HC11 has some more advanced subsystems
>> available, supports interrupts, can run a rtos, etc.
>> 
>> 2 Cent...
>> 
>> 
>> Sandy
>> 
>> At 05:57 PM 11/3/98 -0500, you wrote:
>> >For us novices, could you briefly explain what a PIC is exactly and
>> describe
>> >(manufacturer / model / part#) the board you mention.  Also a brief
>> >explanation of why you would prefer the PIC board to the HC11 (assuming
>> you
>> >could find an HC11 board).
>> >
>> >Thanks
>> >
>> >Rick
>> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 22:16:15 1998
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From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: weird question I think
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On Tue, 3 Nov 1998, Bill the arcstarter wrote:

> Jim wrote:
> >Is there an inexpensive way to make a PC simulate a chip, say a prom 
> reader
> >that passes through a PC on the way to the ECM. You load the rom code 
> into the
> >PC, and the PC simulates a prom., that you could modify parameters to 
> see what
> 
> Yea, look for something called a ROM emulator.  Its a box with a cable 
> coming out one end which attaches to your ECU (or whatever).  You 
> download the ROM code image into this box and off you go!  But I'm not 
> sure how much time this will actually save, and they usually aren't too 
> cheap either.
> 
> -Bill

They would not save any time.  If you actually knew enough about the
car to make an accurate simluator of the entire engine, then you know
enough to get pretty close to it the first time.  The guy that burned
my prom got it pretty close in 4 tries.  Considering that I can
replace the prom in  about 5 minutes and burn it in about 5 minutes,
with the car testing probably you could get it down to less than 30
minutes a version.  That is with practice.

				Roger


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 22:18:01 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: O2 sensors at WOT?
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 22:21:09 -0500
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-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 10:03 PM
Subject: RE: O2 sensors at WOT?


>> > man's gas analyzer could be constructed using one heated (to measure
O2)
>> > and one unheated to measure hydrocarbons, etc???
>> No.  What the report said (I read it) was that NO O2 sensor senses O2
>> at the temperatures that they operate at.  They sense hydrocarbons
>> only.  The temperature required for them to sense O2 was much higher
>> than the O2 sensor in a normal exhaust stream was supposed to be
>
>I had always heard, but never tested, that the O2 sensor reads *lean*
>under conditions of a rich misfire, due to lots of O2 in the exhaust.
>Sounds like this would be an easy test to see if the O2 sensor is
>really responding to O2 or HC. Comments? Maybe I need to go yank off
>a plug wire...

I'd suggest a good going over the archives, there are several reports
and documents all with slightly different takes on the situations.
>From CARB_EPA_SAE all have points and counter points.
Some of the older documents don't even mention thermally compensated
sensors.  Then are you all talking about just the
switch type, and or the wide ratio.  Also is the way the sensors
react to different gases as they heat up
Cheers
Bruce

>
>   Chris C.
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 22:21:44 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: [Fwd: [M] [M} IC Thermodynamics]- Part 3
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-----Original Message-----
From: ECMnut@aol.com <ECMnut@aol.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 10:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Fwd: [M] [M} IC Thermodynamics]- Part 3


A more cost efficient use (cheap) is to cool the turbo with water/alcohol
>>  injection into the turbo inlet. The turbo really atomizes the liquid,
>>  causing it to evaporate rapidly, absorbing a lot of heat and volume,
thus
>>  reducing boost, which the turbo promptly replaces. This is very
efficient
>>  for street thrillers that don't need more than 10 seconds worth of WOT.
>>
>I went this route several year ago, and had problems with the
alchohol/water
>mix having an "abrasive" effect on the compressor wheel.  I would not do it
>again.  BUT I have never seen pistons so sparking clean at teardown time,
>as with water injection.

A SECOND I WOULDN"T DO THAT.    The cetrifical force blows it
to the walls anyway.  Use lots of pressure downstream of the the turbo.
Bruce

>HTH
>Mike V.
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 22:37:44 1998
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Subject: Re: EFI
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-----Original Message-----
From: Jon <Galadar@worldnet.att.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 10:28 PM
Subject: Re: EFI


>    This is an idea I had some time back. How much is known about the 808?

Lots, trouble is some of it's locked into a drive that is waiting attention.
Go thru the archives there is alot out, and the diagrams
are at 332 incoming

>Enough to tune for a mild 350? Any ideas on a pinout at the ecm (ie what
>changes need to be made to MAF harness)? I DON'T have a eprom burner or the
>skills to burn my own chips (yet), but am willing to learn, and I have a
>project car begging for this conversion. Thanks for ANY input.
>Jon
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 1:31 AM
>Subject: Re: EFI
>
>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: AJLegere@aol.com <AJLegere@aol.com>
>>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>>Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 10:57 PM
>>Subject: Re: EFI
>>
>>
>>>Will this '99 MAF work with a '165 ECM?
>>
>>Might be a whole lot less work to just change over to a 90-92 MAP.
>>Could go MAP with the 165 using the aussie 808 info..
>>Bruce
>>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 22:42:14 1998
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From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: [Fwd: [M] [M} IC Thermodynamics]- Part 3
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On Tue, 3 Nov 1998, Bruce Plecan wrote:

> 
> A more cost efficient use (cheap) is to cool the turbo with water/alcohol
> >>  injection into the turbo inlet. The turbo really atomizes the liquid,
> >>  causing it to evaporate rapidly, absorbing a lot of heat and volume,
> thus
> >>  reducing boost, which the turbo promptly replaces. This is very
> efficient
> >>  for street thrillers that don't need more than 10 seconds worth of WOT.
> >>
> >I went this route several year ago, and had problems with the
> alchohol/water
> >mix having an "abrasive" effect on the compressor wheel.  I would not do it
> >again.  BUT I have never seen pistons so sparking clean at teardown time,
> >as with water injection.
> 
> A SECOND I WOULDN"T DO THAT.    The cetrifical force blows it
> to the walls anyway.  Use lots of pressure downstream of the the turbo.
> Bruce
> 
To add to the comments, I remember being told that if you get your
steam too cold and doplets form it is really really hard on the
turbine, and I would expect the same thing for a turbo.  At the kind
of speeds those things run at water is an effective abrasive.  If you
were going to do water injection put it on the other side of the
compressor before the inlet, the effect should be pretty similar.

				Roger


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 23:02:33 1998
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From: "Jon" <Galadar@worldnet.att.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: EFI
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 23:08:29 -0500
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    Thanks, I'll check it out. Any chance they used an 808 on a 350? Or is
it 305(7?) applications only? Thanks Again,
Jon

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 10:42 PM
Subject: Re: EFI


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jon <Galadar@worldnet.att.net>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 10:28 PM
>Subject: Re: EFI
>
>
>>    This is an idea I had some time back. How much is known about the 808?
>
>Lots, trouble is some of it's locked into a drive that is waiting
attention.
>Go thru the archives there is alot out, and the diagrams
>are at 332 incoming
>
>>Enough to tune for a mild 350? Any ideas on a pinout at the ecm (ie what
>>changes need to be made to MAF harness)? I DON'T have a eprom burner or
the
>>skills to burn my own chips (yet), but am willing to learn, and I have a
>>project car begging for this conversion. Thanks for ANY input.
>>Jon
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
>>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>>Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 1:31 AM
>>Subject: Re: EFI
>>
>>
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: AJLegere@aol.com <AJLegere@aol.com>
>>>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>>>Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 10:57 PM
>>>Subject: Re: EFI
>>>
>>>
>>>>Will this '99 MAF work with a '165 ECM?
>>>
>>>Might be a whole lot less work to just change over to a 90-92 MAP.
>>>Could go MAP with the 165 using the aussie 808 info..
>>>Bruce
>>>
>>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 23:12:30 1998
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From: "Barry E. King" <kingb@sprintmail.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: [Fwd: [M] [M} IC Thermodynamics]- Part 3
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 21:14:03 -0700
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You should be injecting the water/alcohol just before the t/b well after the
turbine has compressed inlet air.

Why was water hitting the compressor wheel?  Do you mean the turbine (hot
side)?

I know people using this technique and it works great.  Indy cars of past
years didn't use any sort of air charge cooler BUT water injection.


Regards,

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of
> ECMnut@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 7:47 PM
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: [Fwd: [M] [M} IC Thermodynamics]- Part 3
>
>
> In a message dated 11/3/98 9:37:53 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> twsharpe@mtco.com
> writes:
>
> > A more cost efficient use (cheap) is to cool the turbo with
> water/alcohol
> >  injection into the turbo inlet. The turbo really atomizes the liquid,
> >  causing it to evaporate rapidly, absorbing a lot of heat and
> volume, thus
> >  reducing boost, which the turbo promptly replaces. This is
> very efficient
> >  for street thrillers that don't need more than 10 seconds worth of WOT.
> >
> I went this route several year ago, and had problems with the
> alchohol/water
> mix having an "abrasive" effect on the compressor wheel.  I would
> not do it
> again.  BUT I have never seen pistons so sparking clean at teardown time,
> as with water injection.
> HTH
> Mike V.
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 23:12:49 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: weird question I think
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-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Heflin <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: weird question I think


If your changing a relatively few items a emulator ain't a big deal.
However, if you redesigning something from the bottom up then it is.
Bruce


>> Jim wrote:
>> >Is there an inexpensive way to make a PC simulate a chip, say >>a prom
reader that passes through a PC on the way to the ECM. >>You load the rom
code into thePC, and the PC simulates a prom., >>that you could modify
parameters to see what Yea, look for >>something called a ROM emulator.  Its
a box with a cable
>> coming out one end which attaches to your ECU (or whatever).  >>You
download the ROM code image into this box and off you go!  >>But I'm not
sure how much time this will actually save, and they >>usually aren't too
cheap either.
>> Bill
>
>They would not save any time.  If you actually knew enough about the car to
make an accurate simluator of the entire engine, then you know enough to get
pretty close to it the first time.  The guy that burned my prom got it
pretty close in 4 tries.  Considering that I can
>replace the prom in  about 5 minutes and burn it in about 5 minutes, with
the car testing probably you could get it down to less than 30 minutes a
version.  That is with practice.
> Roger



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 23:18:05 1998
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> Take a look at the Circuit Cellar website
> [http://www.circuitcellar.com/].  It is a magazine dedicated to embedded
> control.  I can be found on larger magazine stands.  They focus on PIC's
> and other microcontrollers.  There are projects, programs and tools in
> each issue.  Although its not automotive focused it might be a source of
> tools and education for some.
> 
They have had some automotive, A SAE formula challenge
fuel injection system for a motorcycle engine 2 issues.
The motorolla VPW OBD-2 controllers.
alex 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 23:18:15 1998
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> From:          Carlo Putter <cputter@sed.sun.ac.za>
> To:            "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
>                <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Subject:       RE: Diacom
> Date:          Tue, 3 Nov 1998 12:59:31 +0200
> Reply-to:      diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

 I do not have the address, but am also interested, more so in the 
physical interface module between the car and the PC serial port. 
Does anybody have a handdrawn schematic??

Here is a  previous post from archives
alex
> 
> http://www.coil.com/~apollo/diacom/crack.html
> > 
> > A written desription in ..../crack.html said you need the
> > other half of the cable.(WARNING: Offensive language used)
> > alex p.
> >  
> > > I wired up that exact diagram and found it to not work.  The
> > > laptop detects the interface, but that's as far as i ever got
> > > with that design.  I am trying to communicate with my 7730 ecm. 
> > > I fooled with it a bit last night and gave up.  
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > ---Raymond Brantley <gt40@home.com> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hey guys I found this while surfing around. Don't know if it
> > > > will
> > > answer any
> > > > questions....
> > > > http://www.coil.com/~apollo/diacom/schem1.jpg

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Nov  3 23:39:36 1998
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From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: weird question I think
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If you were changing code the emulator would be a bit help.  Running
new virturally untested code on a running car would make me a bit
nervious.  Having something wrong could damage certain important
expensive parts.

Changing tables would seem to be pretty minor.   I am tempted to write
am emulator.  I really does not sound that hard, there aren't that
many commands.  The real difficulty would not be getting the
instructions to work, so much as getting the simulated inputs to be
correct and meaningful.   

				Roger

On Tue, 3 Nov 1998, Bruce Plecan wrote:

> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Heflin <rah@horizon.hit.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 10:44 PM
> Subject: Re: weird question I think
> 
> 
> If your changing a relatively few items a emulator ain't a big deal.
> However, if you redesigning something from the bottom up then it is.
> Bruce
> 
> 
> >They would not save any time.  If you actually knew enough about the car to
> make an accurate simluator of the entire engine, then you know enough to get
> pretty close to it the first time.  The guy that burned my prom got it
> pretty close in 4 tries.  Considering that I can
> >replace the prom in  about 5 minutes and burn it in about 5 minutes, with
> the car testing probably you could get it down to less than 30 minutes a
> version.  That is with practice.
> > Roger
> 
> 
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 00:03:06 1998
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From: Stuart Bunning <stuart@kenelec.com.au>
Subject: shift light on 808/165 or spare digital output triggered at a
  RPM
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Hi all

I want my 808 to control something at a given RPM.
I have heard of some Delco 808/165's having a shift light option. This
sound's like what I want.


Does anyone know what pin is used and/or if i was to connect a light would
it work or would I need a different memcal. If anyone has a memcal for a 808
with a shift light option I would like a copy if they are willing to give it
to me. I don't actually want to know when to shift I want to control
something at a given RPM but that is a different story...






Best Regards,

STUART BUNNING
SALES ENGINEER
KENELEC PTY LTD

23-25 REDLAND DRIVE
MITCHAM VICTORIA 3132
AUSTRALIA

PHONE:  61 3 9873 1022
FAX:    61 3 9873 0200
EMAIL:  stuart@kenelec.com.au
WEB:    http://www.kenelec.com.au/


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 00:08:03 1998
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Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 21:14:30 -0800
Subject: Halp! Allen Engine Analyzer
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Hi Gang

I was wondering if any one could help me with a Allen 16-000 series
engine analyzer. Having probs with scope. Does any one out there
have schematics or service info

Tnx all :Peter



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 00:18:55 1998
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In a message dated 11/3/98 1:41:07 AM Pacific Standard Time,
am018@post.almac.co.uk writes:

<< As a general rule as taught to me by my grandfather who was setting
 ignitions by ear at the start of this century an over advanced ignition
 always sounds more powerful -- this could be partially explained (I think)
 by the fact that it will pick up revs more quickly when reved out of gear.
 On few cars I have come across (Lotus Elans which had only 20 crank
 degrees of mechanical advance) retarded ignition has caused pinking ---- I
 suspect due to hot spots forming from excess rejected heat.
  >>
Well, to be truthful, you will never see full advance curves on a motor revved
out of gear. You simply cannot achieve any sort of vacuum to run the advance,
so in reality, you are revving the motor with retarded timing. Ignition timing
is a factor dictated by today's gasoline. You simply cannot run the amount of
ignition advance today that you used to 10 to 20 years ago. The "more is
better" rule also does not apply. You can easily go too far, and lose
performance (and the motor, under extreme conditions). The idea of ignition
timing is to start the ignited fuel's flame front early enough so that the
largest explosive force occurs when the piston/rod combination is on it's way
down on the combustion stroke. If ignition timing is retarded, (closer to Top
Dead Center), the maximum flame front will occur too late, and a loss of
potential power will occur. If the ignition timing is too far advanced,
(farther before TDC), the maximum flame front will occur too early, and the
piston will actually fight the flame front on it's travel upward, causing a
pressure spike, and that pressure causing the actual secondary ignition (and
flame front) of the remaining fuel. As the two flame fronts meet in the
cylinder, a harmonic clashing occurs (audible ping), and instead of the one
flame front propagating throughout the cylinder, and creating power, both
flame fronts collapse, and power diminishes, along with the real possibility
of extensive engine damage! 
You must also keep in mind that all engines are different. For example, a
stock Chevy small block will run with a static timing of 4 deg. advance, and a
total of 40 to 44 deg advance at full power. A Pontiac engine, on the other
hand, runs with a static timing of 12 to 16 degrees, and 36 to 38 deg of
advance at full power. Also keep in mind that if you change an engine's
combination of parts (a new cam, heads, etc.) the ignition timing demands will
change. Other things that will change an engine's demand for more or less
timing is ambient air temp. and density, altitude, humidity, gas quality, load
(towing, etc.), and state of tune.
Hope this answers your question!
PMDRACER@aol.com  

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 00:20:49 1998
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From: "Mark Romans" <romans@pacbell.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: O2 sensors at WOT?
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 21:21:59 -0800
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The engine actually stays in closed loop at WOT,  it just won't learn and
ignores the 02 sensor and goes to a richer "Commanded" air fuel ratio.  Per
PP Fenske,  it the engine has learned to add more fuel via block learn and
integrator it will add these same amounts at wot,  however if it is pulling
fuel out, it will go to 128.  If you have diacom it shows what the commanded
afr is.  My 87 Vette shows 11.91 to one commanded at the higher rpms with
the stock chip.  GM keeps it safe by keeping it rich.  If your engine flows
a lot more air than stock and has headers and a modified map you will
probably want to add more fuel otherwise before I put the headers on it ran
better with less fuel than stock.  After headers I had to go richer than
stock.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Wilcutts <markw@vehicle.me.berkeley.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 12:14 AM
Subject: Re: O2 sensors at WOT?


>On Mon, 2 Nov 1998, Bill the arcstarter wrote:
>
>>  I've heard that most ECU's go into an open-loop condition while under
>> WOT.  I've also heard this is because most O2 sensors read incorrectly
>> under WOT conditions.
>>
>> Why is that?  Does the increased gas flow cool the O2 sensor down too
>> much or what?
>
>Might be because WOT enrichment pegs the O2 sensor to the rich side.
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 00:39:36 1998
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Subject: DAEWOO NUBIRA MEMCAL WANTED
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I am after a Bin from a daewoo nubira. 
The Daewoo Nubira has a 2litre 4 cylinder. I assume it is a delco p4 ECU not
sure but
looking under the bonnet it has standard GM/DELCO IAC Valve TPS and single
wire o2 sencor all with familuar color coding. Apparently the Daewoo Ciello
has a 808 ECU so I assume they all do.

any help would be appreciaed.



Best Regards,

STUART BUNNING
SALES ENGINEER
KENELEC PTY LTD

23-25 REDLAND DRIVE
MITCHAM VICTORIA 3132
AUSTRALIA

PHONE:  61 3 9873 1022
FAX:    61 3 9873 0200
EMAIL:  stuart@kenelec.com.au
WEB:    http://www.kenelec.com.au/


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 00:44:50 1998
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Another idea that I have been part of is to use either Nitrous Oxide injection
into the turbo (cooling effect) or to inject propane into the turbo. The
propane gives a cooling effect, and it's octane rating is 120+. PLEASE NOTE!
This was done on a Bonneville salt flats race car. I CANNOT EMPHASIZE ENOUGH.
DO NOT DO THIS ON THE STREET!!! PROPANE IS EXPLOSIVE, AND A SERIOUS EXPLOSION
CAN OCCUR.
Just in case you are wondering, the introduction of propane into our dual-
turbo 468 cid 3800 lb vehicle increased trap speed by 27.83 MPH at the end of
the flying 5 mile marker.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 00:51:45 1998
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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 21:57:09 -0800
From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
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Subject: Re: O2 sensors at WOT?
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Mark Wilcutts wrote:

> Might be because WOT enrichment pegs the O2 sensor to the rich side.

And then the 02 sensor would try to trigger the ECM/U to lean the mixture
which, presumably, you wouldn't want.  Hence the open loop at WOT ?

Jeremy



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 01:01:50 1998
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In a message dated 11/3/98 9:56:08 PM Pacific Standard Time, bartlett@slip.net
writes:

<<  Might be because WOT enrichment pegs the O2 sensor to the rich side.
 
 And then the 02 sensor would try to trigger the ECM/U to lean the mixture
 which, presumably, you wouldn't want.  Hence the open loop at WOT ?
 
 Jeremy >>

Actually, the ECU is progtrammed to IGNORE the O2 input at WOT. The ECU is
programmed to err on the rich side. A rich mixture is necessary for max power,
but a rich mixture will not do internal engine damage like that of a lean
mixture will.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 01:21:49 1998
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Subject: Re: PIC Questions
To: s2193387@cse.unsw.edu.au
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 22:21:45 -0800 (PST)
Cc: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu (DIY EFI List)
In-Reply-To: <Pine.GSO.3.95.981104134142.7780D-100000@mozart.orchestra.cse.unsw.EDU.AU> from "Mos" at Nov 4, 98 03:49:43 pm
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> Re: the LCD code - are you freeling distributing that code? If so, would
> you be able to send it to me please?
> This is mainly to keep for reference as I have no specific application for
> it at the moment, but many possible projects.

I just put the whole thing out on:

ftp://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/incoming/dataaq.zip

The lcd code is in lcd.asm.  You are welcome to the lcd code, subject
to the fact that it is a derivative of the Microchip application note
and various LCD faqs.

The math routines are derived from Microchip application notes too,
so they aren't very interesting.

Original code is mine and you are welcome to the AtoD serial bit-banging.

The whole thing is posted for educational purposes - enjoy.

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 01:27:52 1998
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In-Reply-To: <199811040302.TAA03120@mail.wgn.net> from "Sandy" at Nov 3, 98 07:05:50 pm
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> Check out the microchip site and you will see all that is made. I was just
> up and downloaded the datasheets for the16c63 series. They have an overview
> of each part so you can browse around and see what each has.

Pay special attention to the errata!  The A versions are usually better...

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 01:34:31 1998
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Subject: Re: O2 sensors at WOT?
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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In-Reply-To: <01BE0772.9F2634E0@mg-20425422-195.ricochet.net> from "Chris Conlon" at Nov 3, 98 09:40:43 pm
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> I had always heard, but never tested, that the O2 sensor reads *lean*
> under conditions of a rich misfire, due to lots of O2 in the exhaust.
> Sounds like this would be an easy test to see if the O2 sensor is
> really responding to O2 or HC. Comments? Maybe I need to go yank off
> a plug wire...

Absolutely.  An ignition miss will force the mixture rich and
can foul up the plugs mighty fast.

The O2 sensor really is reacting to oxygen... misfire means
lots of oxygen left along with unburnt fuel, but the sensor
doesn't care about the fuel and signals lean.

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 03:11:08 1998
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: [Fwd: [M] [M} IC Thermodynamics]- Part 3
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>>Obviuosly, an Air to Air unit MUST be placed where it can get good air
>>flow.
>>
>>Obviously, the liquid to air rejection unit must be placed where it can
>>get
>>EVEN MORE air flow.
>>
>>More to come later.
>
>
>    It sounds like you have this whole thing thought out very well, so I
>hestitate to make my meager suggestion.  A friend of mine who owns an Isuzu
>Impulse (which has a top-mounted intercooler) has rigged up a device to
>spray ice water onto the IC.  There is a switch mounted on the shifter used
>to energize the pump when he is deep into the boost; he says there is a
>noticeable difference in power when using it (probably due to less pinging),
>especially going uphill.

Nahhh--not less pinging, although that likely happens, due to higher
density of cooler air in the intake manifold.

Regards, Greg

>    Obviously this solution doesn't work too well for long-distance driving,
>but at the dragstrip or at a hillclimb it seems to be an economical solution
>to the low airflow problem.
>
>Soren



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 03:17:48 1998
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: [Fwd: [M] [M} IC Thermodynamics]- Part 3
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>On Tue, 3 Nov 1998, Bruce Plecan wrote:
>
>>
>> A more cost efficient use (cheap) is to cool the turbo with water/alcohol
>> >>  injection into the turbo inlet. The turbo really atomizes the liquid,
>> >>  causing it to evaporate rapidly, absorbing a lot of heat and volume,
>> thus
>> >>  reducing boost, which the turbo promptly replaces. This is very
>> efficient
>> >>  for street thrillers that don't need more than 10 seconds worth of WOT.
>> >>
>> >I went this route several year ago, and had problems with the
>> alchohol/water
>> >mix having an "abrasive" effect on the compressor wheel.  I would not do it
>> >again.  BUT I have never seen pistons so sparking clean at teardown time,
>> >as with water injection.
>>
>> A SECOND I WOULDN"T DO THAT.    The cetrifical force blows it
>> to the walls anyway.  Use lots of pressure downstream of the the turbo.
>> Bruce
>>
>To add to the comments, I remember being told that if you get your
>steam too cold and doplets form it is really really hard on the
>turbine, and I would expect the same thing for a turbo.  At the kind
>of speeds those things run at water is an effective abrasive.  If you
>were going to do water injection put it on the other side of the
>compressor before the inlet, the effect should be pretty similar.
>
>				Roger

Plus you will avoid the compressor work (and volume capacity) involved in
compressing the evaporated portion of the H2O.

Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 03:27:03 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: loud motor = happy motor?
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 You simply cannot achieve any sort of vacuum to run the advance,
>so in reality, you are revving the motor with retarded timing. Ignition timing
>is a factor dictated by today's gasoline. You simply cannot run the amount of
>ignition advance today that you used to 10 to 20 years ago. The "more is
>better" rule also does not apply.

More knowlege as to how to design chamber shape and turbulence has at least
as much, and likely a whole lot more to do with this than fuel!! I have
built engines which would run with no ping at 12 to 14 degrees MORE advance
that what made best power! (Lotsa squish, very short flame travel, central
plug.)


You can easily go too far, and lose
>performance

See above statement.

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 04:03:07 1998
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Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 01:03:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Mark Wilcutts <markw@vehicle.me.berkeley.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: O2 sensors at WOT?
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On Wed, 4 Nov 1998 PMDRACER@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 11/3/98 9:56:08 PM Pacific Standard Time, bartlett@slip.net
> writes:
> 
> <<  Might be because WOT enrichment pegs the O2 sensor to the rich side.
>  
>  And then the 02 sensor would try to trigger the ECM/U to lean the mixture
>  which, presumably, you wouldn't want.  Hence the open loop at WOT ?
>  
>  Jeremy >>
> 
> Actually, the ECU is progtrammed to IGNORE the O2 input at WOT. The ECU is
> programmed to err on the rich side. A rich mixture is necessary for max power,
> but a rich mixture will not do internal engine damage like that of a lean
> mixture will.

Yep. Another reason for the richer mixture at WOT is to reduce the exhaust
temperature (compared to stoich) thus preventing damage to the O2 sensor
and catalyst.



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From: Mark Wilcutts <markw@vehicle.me.berkeley.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: O2 sensors at WOT?
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Question: if the ECM ignores the O2 sensor, in what sense do you mean it
stays in closed loop? How can it have added to the block learns if it's
ignoring the sensor?

On Tue, 3 Nov 1998, Mark Romans wrote:

> The engine actually stays in closed loop at WOT,  it just won't learn and
> ignores the 02 sensor and goes to a richer "Commanded" air fuel ratio.  Per
> PP Fenske,  it the engine has learned to add more fuel via block learn and
> integrator it will add these same amounts at wot,  however if it is pulling
> fuel out, it will go to 128.  If you have diacom it shows what the commanded


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 04:37:48 1998
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It is also due to the lag built into a mechanical advance system because of
friction and inertia  durring very sharp acceleration a mechanical system the
actual advance will always lag  behind the steady  speed setting --- a small
ammount but it will always be there. Equally well a mechanical system will always
overshoot by a small about if the throttle is lifted suddenly.

Any engine that needs a lot of advance is signaling  it needs work on the
combustion chamber shape to get more power,


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 07:55:51 1998
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Barry E. King wrote:

> You should be injecting the water/alcohol just before the t/b well after the
> turbine has compressed inlet air.
>
> Why was water hitting the compressor wheel?  Do you mean the turbine (hot
> side)?
>
> I know people using this technique and it works great.  Indy cars of past
> years didn't use any sort of air charge cooler BUT water injection.
>
> Regards,
>
> Barry

I used a sealed tank , tubing, and an .080 orifice, pressurized by the intake,
kind of self regulating, with no ill effects. I only averaged 10k per motor
(cast pistons and crank) but the turbo is still working in a Pantera....

Regards  Tom



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Greg Hermann wrote:

>  You simply cannot achieve any sort of vacuum to run the advance,
> >so in reality, you are revving the motor with retarded timing. Ignition timing
> >is a factor dictated by today's gasoline. You simply cannot run the amount of
> >ignition advance today that you used to 10 to 20 years ago. The "more is
> >better" rule also does not apply.
>
> More knowlege as to how to design chamber shape and turbulence has at least
> as much, and likely a whole lot more to do with this than fuel!! I have
> built engines which would run with no ping at 12 to 14 degrees MORE advance
> that what made best power! (Lotsa squish, very short flame travel, central
> plug.)
>
> You can easily go too far, and lose
> >performance
>
> See above statement.
>
> Regards, Greg

10-4.... Squish usually always helps. With a SBC, run steel rods, .04x gaskets and
.000 deck. (you always have to cut the block)  Then look at the piston tops and
combustion chambers when you tear it down.  Amazing...  Regatds  Tom


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References: <199811040302.TAA03120@mail.wgn.net> from "Sandy" at Nov 3, 98 07:05:50 pm
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> Pay special attention to the errata!  The A versions are usually better...
This is a brown out reset, was added to most 16C7Cx chips a few years
ago.  Could be yousfull for low crank voltage.
For non asm. LCD drivers, there is code in BASIC stamp app. book
also CCS C compiler has functions.  These could be posted at there
web sites?  Also make sure to get the Hitachi LCD data sheet, it is
written in rather broken english. Depending on your app. you
could delete some routines, such as reading memory and checking
for ack.
alex 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 08:41:34 1998
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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: PIC Questions
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Thanks Sandy,

Just found the chip directory doing a search on NMIX.  I'm going to check
needhams for the datasheets.  Also the page mentions New Micros selling NMIT
and NMIX boards for approx $100  (68hc11 based).  Thanks.

Rick

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Sandy [SMTP:sganz@wgn.net]
> Sent:	Tuesday, November 03, 1998 10:06 PM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	RE: PIC Questions
> 
> Check out the microchip site and you will see all that is made. I was just
> up and downloaded the datasheets for the16c63 series. They have an
> overview
> of each part so you can browse around and see what each has.
> 
> Sandy

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 08:45:42 1998
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	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Thanks Bill,

Found the site and am taking a cyber stroll as we speak!

Rick

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Bill the arcstarter [SMTP:arcstarter@hotmail.com]
> Sent:	Tuesday, November 03, 1998 8:18 PM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	RE: PIC Questions
> 
> It was written:
> >For us novices, could you briefly explain what a PIC is exactly and 
> describe
> >(manufacturer / model / part#) the board you mention.  Also a brief
> >explanation of why you would prefer the PIC board to the HC11 (assuming 
> you
> >could find an HC11 board).
> 
> PICs are made by Microchip Technologies, url = http://www.microchip.com 
> .  They are usually small cheap simple RISC-ish processors which include 
> onboard ram, timers, uarts, etc.  Not all models have all options.
> 
> Most PICs have no external address/data us, but are instead chock full 
> of i/o lines which can be used for all sorts of things.
> 
> I've been fooling with these critters for a couple of years, and I can 
> only summarize them by saying that "They are neat"!
> 
> For the beginner, the typical part to choose would be the 16C84 or 
> 16F84.  These guys have some eeprom (64 bytes) on the inside and the 
> program memory is completely flash.  Typical home-style development 
> involves "crash and burn", where the chip is pulled from the target 
> board, reprogrammed (takes about 20 secs) and reinserted for a try.  
> This part also has an on-board timer, interrupts, watchdog, low power 
> sleep mode, 13 i/o lines (any combo of input/output), anti-pilfer code 
> protection, in-circuit programming and other stuff like that.
> 
> The assembly language is a bit cryptic, but not bad for a person already 
> experienced in that particular art.  All instructions (except for 
> branches) execute in exactly 1 clock cycle.  "C" and/or BASIC 
> development systems are available but I don't know where.  You can clock 
> the little beggars up to (I think) 10-20 Megahertz.  Not bad for a $6 
> part!  Digikey sell them too.
> 
> Anyone out there using any decent in-circuit emulators, other than 
> microchip's $3000 Pro-Mate system?  I'm looking for something to help me 
> develop for other non-flash parts, and I hate the UV-erase technique...  
> There was some sort of ICE-PIC box - which would supposedly let you 
> program and run in-circuit at realtime clock rates.  Anyone seen or 
> using one of these systems?
> 
> Of course the Atmel AVRs are rather equivalent and fully flash... :)
> 
> Thanks.
> -Bill
> 
> 
> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 08:47:23 1998
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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Thank Orin,

You're right.  Lots of folks jumped in a helped me out.  Thank you all.
Now, back to school.......

rick

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Orin Eman [SMTP:orin@wolfenet.com]
> Sent:	Tuesday, November 03, 1998 8:40 PM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: PIC Questions
> 
> 
> > For us novices, could you briefly explain what a PIC is exactly and
> describe
> 
> This has now been well covered!
> 
> > (manufacturer / model / part#) the board you mention.  Also a brief
> 
> Manufacturer: me
> Model: "the data aq board"
> Part #: don't have one ;)
> 
> It's an Audi 5 cylinder turbo engine specific board, though it could
> be adapted to other Bosch engine management systems.  It aquires
> ignition timing, a couple of duty cycles, 3 temperatures via
> thermocouples and some analog values.  These are displayed on
> an LCD (2x20) and dumped to serial.
> 
> > explanation of why you would prefer the PIC board to the HC11 (assuming
> you
> > could find an HC11 board).
> 
> Advantage to the PIC is that you need no external components other than
> a crystal and a couple of caps to make it run.  HC11 needs RAM at least
> (onboard probably not enough) and probably EPROM for final program.
> Thats two 28 pin or so chips as well as the CPU.  Yes, there are HC11s
> with onboard EEPROM, but it is too small to be really useful for code.
> 
> Orin.

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In a message dated 11/3/98 10:23:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rah@horizon.hit.net writes:

<< They would not save any time.  If you actually knew enough about the
 car to make an accurate simluator of the entire engine, then you know
 enough to get pretty close to it the first time.  The guy that burned
 my prom got it pretty close in 4 tries.  Considering that I can
 replace the prom in  about 5 minutes and burn it in about 5 minutes,
 with the car testing probably you could get it down to less than 30
 minutes a version.  That is with practice.
  >>

Well, unfortunatly for my I know d*ck about prom programming. Thats why I'm
here. I want to sdit behind the lines and learn. Only prob is most of the info
passed is already over my head. And there apparenntly arent any "kid rated"
sites/books to learn. I do NOT know assembler which makes it all worse. I can
get software from a friend of mine, (its DOS based, but does the hex
conversions by itself) but it only does 86-7 Grand nationals and I dont want
to be limited to them only. I've downloaded some prom images, but they dont
mean anything to me since other than knowing EFI from a driveability point of
view, I dont know what could be changed and the consequences of changing it.
If I'm making sense. Anyone wanna hold my hand and teach me?? :-P

Jim

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Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 07:38:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [Fwd: [M] [M} IC Thermodynamics]- Part 3
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059
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-> into the turbo (cooling effect) or to inject propane into the turbo.
-> The propane gives a cooling effect, and it's octane rating is 120+.
-> PLEASE NOTE! This was done on a Bonneville salt flats race car. I
-> CANNOT EMPHASIZE ENOUGH. DO NOT DO THIS ON THE STREET!!! PROPANE IS
-> EXPLOSIVE, AND A SERIOUS EXPLOSION CAN OCCUR.

 Propane is not an explosive, and feeding it ahead of the turbo won't
hurt a thing.  Lots of Diesels do just that as a power booster, and
then there are all those cars (and a few motorcycles, like the semi-
factory ATP Kawasakis) with carburetors upstream of the turbo.  Now
under certain circumstances you could generate a truly impressive
backfire, but that's not the same as an explosion.

 I just love gratuitous safety slobber.  Shoelaces!  Did you know if
your shoelace came untied, you could trip and fall, and your head would
split open like a rotten cantaloupe because you weren't wearing a crash
helmet?!  Shoelaces are only for the use of trained professionals...

==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?
=================================== http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm
                           

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<snip>
>170 Gm/sec works out to 300 cfm (and about 205 HP) (at sea level), which
>works out to 84% or so VE--

Could you elaborate on the math??

Thanks



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Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 14:32:44 +0000
From: am018 <am018@post.almac.co.uk>
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Subject: Re: shift light on 808/165 or spare digital output triggered at a
	  RPM
References: <199811040503.PAA03035@host.kenelec.com.au>
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Alternatively you can make  a very simple single chip RPM switch using a
National Semiconductor  LM2917 N frequency to voltage convertor.
The datasheet for this IC gives example circuits.

Andy Mcf

Stuart Bunning wrote:

> Hi all
>
> I want my 808 to control something at a given RPM.
> I have heard of some Delco 808/165's having a shift light option. This
> sound's like what I want.
>
> Does anyone know what pin is used and/or if i was to connect a light would
> it work or would I need a different memcal. If anyone has a memcal for a 808
> with a shift light option I would like a copy if they are willing to give it
> to me. I don't actually want to know when to shift I want to control
> something at a given RPM but that is a different story...
>
> Best Regards,
>
> STUART BUNNING
> SALES ENGINEER
> KENELEC PTY LTD
>
> 23-25 REDLAND DRIVE
> MITCHAM VICTORIA 3132
> AUSTRALIA
>
> PHONE:  61 3 9873 1022
> FAX:    61 3 9873 0200
> EMAIL:  stuart@kenelec.com.au
> WEB:    http://www.kenelec.com.au/


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Who is your friend?  Can I get a copy?

In a message dated 11/4/98 9:14:21 AM Eastern Standard Time,
JTesta1966@aol.com writes:
> . I can
>  get software from a friend of mine, (its DOS based, but does the hex
>  conversions by itself) but it only does 86-7 Grand nationals and I dont
want
>  to be limited to them only. I've downloaded some prom images

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  Barry E. King wrote: 
 > You should be injecting the water/alcohol just before the t/b well after 
   the
 > turbine has compressed inlet air.
 >
 > Why was water hitting the compressor wheel?  Do you mean the turbine (hot
 > side)?
==========================
Hi Barry, 
I was definitely referring to compressor wheel probs..
 I agree with injection AFTER the turbo (and Intercooler).....
The thread originally mentioned injecting water/alky into
the turbo inlet... wait, I'll snip Tom S's original message:

=====>>>>>>>>  snip <<<<<<<=========
> A more cost efficient use (cheap) is to cool the turbo with water/alcohol
> injection into the turbo inlet. The turbo really atomizes the liquid,
=====>>>>>>> snip <<<<<<<<==========

True some indy cars made use of the squirt into the turbo inlet,
but they replaced compressor wheels often.  They were the "poster
child" example, used by turbo books, as for why you shouldn't do it.
HTH Mike V

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Subject: Re: [Fwd: [M] [M} IC Thermodynamics]- Part 3
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>    It sounds like you have this whole thing thought out very well, so I
>>hestitate to make my meager suggestion.  A friend of mine who owns an
Isuzu
>>Impulse (which has a top-mounted intercooler) has rigged up a device to
>>spray ice water onto the IC.  There is a switch mounted on the shifter
used
>>to energize the pump when he is deep into the boost; he says there is a
>>noticeable difference in power when using it (probably due to less
pinging),
>>especially going uphill.
>
>Nahhh--not less pinging, although that likely happens, due to higher
>density of cooler air in the intake manifold.


    When the knock sensor detects pinging, the ECM retards timing and lowers
boost, resulting in a noticeable loss of power (at least in Isuzu/Geo
vehicles).

Soren


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Subject of propane injectors has come up several times - Anyone
found info/sources?

Regards, Jack

Dave Williams wrote:

>  Propane is not an explosive, and feeding it ahead of the turbo won't
> hurt a thing.  Lots of Diesels do just that as a power booster, and
> then there are all those cars (and a few motorcycles, like the semi-
> factory ATP Kawasakis) with carburetors upstream of the turbo.  Now
> under certain circumstances you could generate a truly impressive
> backfire, but that's not the same as an explosion.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 11:37:11 1998
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From: "Barry E. King" <kingb@sprintmail.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: [Fwd: [M] [M} IC Thermodynamics]- Part 3
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 09:38:53 -0700
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Thanks for the clarification.  I definitely "mist" (groan) that portion of
the original post.

I can definitely see where spraying the compressor wheel directly or
upstream of it would cause premature wear.  I have never tried that.  I know
from experience injecting downstream of the compressor works very well,
however, without apparent ill-effects.


Regards,

Barry

> Hi Barry,
> I was definitely referring to compressor wheel probs..
>  I agree with injection AFTER the turbo (and Intercooler).....
> The thread originally mentioned injecting water/alky into
> the turbo inlet... wait, I'll snip Tom S's original message:
>
> =====>>>>>>>>  snip <<<<<<<=========
> > A more cost efficient use (cheap) is to cool the turbo with
> water/alcohol
> > injection into the turbo inlet. The turbo really atomizes the liquid,
> =====>>>>>>> snip <<<<<<<<==========
>
> True some indy cars made use of the squirt into the turbo inlet,
> but they replaced compressor wheels often.  They were the "poster
> child" example, used by turbo books, as for why you shouldn't do it.


> HTH Mike V



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 11:58:09 1998
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Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 08:59:50 -0800 (PST)
From: andy quaas <realsquash@yahoo.com>
Subject: Haltech ECMs
To: diy efi <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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I went to www.haltech.com.au and found this e6gm ecm.  Supposedly a
plug-in replacement for certain GM ecms.  Any idea which ones?  I
searched the archives and found little information.  Any experiences
with haltech?

Andy Q




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 12:52:41 1998
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cybergate.net>
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Subject: Re: loud motor = happy motor?
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Revving an engine out of gear will show max advance.  You will have full
centrifugal and vacuum advance.  Flame fronts do not collide as you
describe, the end gas detonates and creates a shock wave.  Modern Chevys run
best at 32 to 34 degrees.
Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>
>  >>

snip
>Well, to be truthful, you will never see full advance curves on a motor
revved
>out of gear. You simply cannot achieve any sort of vacuum to run the
advance,
>so in reality, you are revving the motor with retarded timing. Ignition
timing
>is a factor dictated by today's gasoline.
snip
. If the ignition timing is too far advanced,
>(farther before TDC), the maximum flame front will occur too early, and the
>piston will actually fight the flame front on it's travel upward, causing a
>pressure spike, and that pressure causing the actual secondary ignition
(and
>flame front) of the remaining fuel. As the two flame fronts meet in the
>cylinder, a harmonic clashing occurs (audible ping), and instead of the one
>flame front propagating throughout the cylinder, and creating power, both
>flame fronts collapse, and power diminishes, along with the real
possibility
>of extensive engine damage!
>You must also keep in mind that all engines are different. For example, a
>stock Chevy small block will run with a static timing of 4 deg. advance,
and a
>total of 40 to 44 deg advance at full power. A Pontiac engine, on the other
>hand, runs with a static timing of 12 to 16 degrees, and 36 to 38 deg of
>advance at full power. Also keep in mind that if you change an engine's
>combination of parts (a new cam, heads, etc.) the ignition timing demands
will
>change. Other things that will change an engine's demand for more or less
>timing is ambient air temp. and density, altitude, humidity, gas quality,
load
>(towing, etc.), and state of tune.
>Hope this answers your question!
>PMDRACER@aol.com


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 13:23:27 1998
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How does this list work? How often do you get postings? does everyone =
get a copy of this? I was refered here by some guys on the Ferrari list. =
My interest is converting a Bosch KJetronic mech.FI'd motor to an EFI'd =
EEM'd motor, and looking for input....

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 13:44:42 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: [Fwd: [M] [M} IC Thermodynamics]- Part 3
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>
> Propane is not an explosive, and feeding it ahead of the turbo won't
>hurt a thing.  Lots of Diesels do just that as a power booster, and
>then there are all those cars (and a few motorcycles, like the semi-
>factory ATP Kawasakis) with carburetors upstream of the turbo.  Now
>under certain circumstances you could generate a truly impressive
>backfire, but that's not the same as an explosion.
>
No it is not. but (Thermo 101 and Fluids !01) gaseous fuel, whether
evaporated gasoline or propane, in the intake tract before the intake valve
closes, displaces air (oxygen, the stuff you use to burn the fuel to make
the power). The lighter the molecular weight of a given gaseous fuel, the
higher the percentage of air it displaces, and the more it reduces the
power available (at any given final manifold density). Squirting "Happy
Juice" in as a coolant  is a different story---because a higher percentage
of nitrous' molecular weight is in oxygen than is true for air. Therefore,
although it displaces air too, it replaces it with MORE oxygen, therefore
you can burn more fuel, therefore you go faster.

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 13:58:18 1998
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Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 18:35:27 +0000
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References: <541251.7.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us>
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No but Propane air mixture is explosive if ignited within the explosive
range   as is petrol vapour. Even lube oil  mist can be explosive in the
right (but extreme) circumstances crankcase explosions are a major hazard
on large (ie: meter bore) slow speed marine diesels.

---Just a  thought  small ammounts of butane are disolved in pump petrol
for easy of cold starting could normal roadside gasolene be doped by
bubbling camping gas through it.

Andy McF

Dave Williams wrote:

> -> into the turbo (cooling effect) or to inject propane into the turbo.
> -> The propane gives a cooling effect, and it's octane rating is 120+.
> -> PLEASE NOTE! This was done on a Bonneville salt flats race car. I
> -> CANNOT EMPHASIZE ENOUGH. DO NOT DO THIS ON THE STREET!!! PROPANE IS
> -> EXPLOSIVE, AND A SERIOUS EXPLOSION CAN OCCUR.
>
>  Propane is not an explosive, and feeding it ahead of the turbo won't
> hurt a thing.  Lots of Diesels do just that as a power booster, and
> then there are all those cars (and a few motorcycles, like the semi-
> factory ATP Kawasakis) with carburetors upstream of the turbo.  Now
> under certain circumstances you could generate a truly impressive
> backfire, but that's not the same as an explosion.
>
>  I just love gratuitous safety slobber.  Shoelaces!  Did you know if
> your shoelace came untied, you could trip and fall, and your head would
> split open like a rotten cantaloupe because you weren't wearing a crash
> helmet?!  Shoelaces are only for the use of trained professionals...
>
> ==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
> I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
> my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?
> =================================== http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 14:05:31 1998
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: MAF
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><snip>
>>170 Gm/sec works out to 300 cfm (and about 205 HP) (at sea level), which
>>works out to 84% or so VE--
>
>Could you elaborate on the math??
>
>Thanks

454 grams = 1 lb. (conversion constant)
.075 lbs./cubic foot = typical sea level density of air at a reasonable
temperature

(1) therefore 170 grams per second /454 grams/ lb. = .374 lbs./sec

(2) therefore, .374 lbs./sec. x 60 seconds/minute  = 22.47 lbs./min. (of
air, number used in (3) & (4) below)

(3) therefore 22.47 lb/min. / .075 lbs./cubic ft. = 299.6 cubic feet/min.
(cfm) of air.

(4) therefore, 22.47 lbs./ min. x 60 min/hour = 1348 lbs/hour of air.

(5) therefore 1348 lbs./ hour / 13.5 (typical WOT a/f ratio for an NA
engine) =  99.87 lbs./hour of fuel

(6) therefore 99.87 lbs./ hour of fuel/ .48 lbs. fuel/ brake horsepower
hour ( a pretty typical brake specific fuel consumption figure for an NA
engine) = 208 Horsepower.

(NA = naturally aspirated)

Regards, Greg




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 14:07:51 1998
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Subject: Re: [Fwd: [M] [M} IC Thermodynamics]- Part 3
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>>    It sounds like you have this whole thing thought out very well, so I
>>>hestitate to make my meager suggestion.  A friend of mine who owns an
>Isuzu
>>>Impulse (which has a top-mounted intercooler) has rigged up a device to
>>>spray ice water onto the IC.  There is a switch mounted on the shifter
>used
>>>to energize the pump when he is deep into the boost; he says there is a
>>>noticeable difference in power when using it (probably due to less
>pinging),
>>>especially going uphill.
>>
>>Nahhh--not less pinging, although that likely happens, due to higher
>>density of cooler air in the intake manifold.
>
>
>    When the knock sensor detects pinging, the ECM retards timing and lowers
>boost, resulting in a noticeable loss of power (at least in Isuzu/Geo
>vehicles).

When you start changing more than one variable at once, it will INVARIABLY
confuse ANY issue!!

Are you too wise to have ever tried to argue with a woman?? That is how
they always win!!

Regards, Greg
>
>Soren



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 14:45:12 1998
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Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 14:44:23 EST
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Subject: Isuzu Turbo
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Anyone have a bin from one of these Isuzu turbos?
Thx
Mike V

>      When the knock sensor detects pinging, the ECM retards timing and
lowers
>  boost, resulting in a noticeable loss of power (at least in Isuzu/Geo
>  vehicles).
>  

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 15:47:18 1998
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Subject: CALPAK for smallblock V8
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Does anyone have a P4 style calpak/memcal/whatever you call it for
a smallblock chevy V8 engine that they're not using?

I don't care what the ROM in it is, i'm replacing that with a
socket, but i need the correct ESC and knock circuitry for a V8.

Thanks,
-Jake


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 16:00:58 1998
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Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 07:54:29 +1000
From: Richard Wakeling <kojab@ar.com.au>
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Hi Andy,
	I know the E6GM was made to be compatable with the Aussie 808.
I dont believe it will ever be as good as the original GM but I am
biased of course.

Cheers Richard.

andy quaas wrote:
> 
> I went to www.haltech.com.au and found this e6gm ecm.  Supposedly a
> plug-in replacement for certain GM ecms.  Any idea which ones?  I
> searched the archives and found little information.  Any experiences
> with haltech?
> 
> Andy Q
> 
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 17:01:02 1998
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From: "Falb, John" <John.Falb@Unisys.Com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Easy question
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 16:52:49 -0500 
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I have a circuit diagram for a DIY shift light that I am going to make.
It is based on a LM2927 and LM358N. There are circuits that look like
this but I don't know what they are. Can you name that circuit?

_______||_____________   
       ||                
     0.1 uF     



Thanks for the help. No flames please
john falb

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 17:01:33 1998
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From: "Falb, John" <John.Falb@Unisys.Com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Easy question
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 16:52:49 -0500 
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I have a circuit diagram for a DIY shift light that I am going to make.
It is based on a LM2927 and LM358N. There are circuits that look like
this but I don't know what they are. Can you name that circuit?

_______||_____________   
       ||                
     0.1 uF     



Thanks for the help. No flames please
john falb

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 17:02:25 1998
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From: "Bill the arcstarter" <arcstarter@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: [Fwd: [M] [M} IC Thermodynamics]- Part 3
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It was written:

>Subject of propane injectors has come up several times - Anyone
>found info/sources?
>
>Regards, Jack

No, not yet, but I'm looking for them frantically!

I *will* have more to say about this very soon... heh heh heh

-Bill the arcstarter
Starting arcs in Cinci, OH
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/6160


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

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At 12:23 PM 29/10/98 -0800, you wrote:
>me too.  Thanks.
>
>>  >I have at home GM specs on the knock sensors for the 4, 6 and 8 cyl GM
>>  >cars/trucks from the past 15 years, they all are designed
>> around specific
>>  >frequency's.
>>  >
>>  >I can send the data for the sensors and part numbers if anyone is
>>  >interested.
>>  >
>>  >Basically, use the correct sensor for you type of engine if you
>> are adding
>>  >knock sensing.
>
>
>


Best Regards,

STUART BUNNING
SALES ENGINEER
KENELEC PTY LTD

23-25 REDLAND DRIVE
MITCHAM VICTORIA 3132
AUSTRALIA

PHONE:  61 3 9873 1022
FAX:    61 3 9873 0200
EMAIL:  stuart@kenelec.com.au
WEB:    http://www.kenelec.com.au/


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 17:47:53 1998
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From: andy quaas <realsquash@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Easy question
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Looks like a capacitor of .1 microfarads (sp?).

andy Q

---"Falb, John" <John.Falb@Unisys.Com> wrote:
>
> I have a circuit diagram for a DIY shift light that I am going to
make.
> It is based on a LM2927 and LM358N. There are circuits that look like
> this but I don't know what they are. Can you name that circuit?
> 
> _______||_____________   
>        ||                
>      0.1 uF     
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help. No flames please
> john falb
> 

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Easy question
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 15:53:25 -0700
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Oh.  I know this one.  That would be a 0.1 micro-Farad ceramic (likely)
capacitor.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----

> I have a circuit diagram for a DIY shift light that I am going to make.
> It is based on a LM2927 and LM358N. There are circuits that look like
> this but I don't know what they are. Can you name that circuit?
>
> _______||_____________
>        ||
>      0.1 uF
>
>
>
> Thanks for the help. No flames please

Flames?  On a list?

> john falb



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 18:22:05 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: weird question I think
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-----Original Message-----
From: JTesta1966@aol.com <JTesta1966@aol.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 9:29 AM
Subject: Re: weird question I think


There is a whole series of stuff about starting at ground zero.
Start at the DIY_EFI Home Page, and 332 incoming and get
everything related to programming 101+808, research the
archives for tables map fuel and spark.
Lots of Data
Bruce

>Well, unfortunatly for my I know d*ck about prom programming. Thats why I'm
>here. I want to sdit behind the lines and learn. Only prob is most of the
info
>passed is already over my head. And there apparenntly arent any "kid rated"
>sites/books to learn. I do NOT know assembler which makes it all worse. I
can
>get software from a friend of mine, (its DOS based, but does the hex
>conversions by itself) but it only does 86-7 Grand nationals and I dont
want
>to be limited to them only. I've downloaded some prom images, but they dont
>mean anything to me since other than knowing EFI from a driveability point
of
>view, I dont know what could be changed and the consequences of changing
it.
>If I'm making sense. Anyone wanna hold my hand and teach me?? :-P
>
>Jim
>


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Subject: Re: Haltech ECMs
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-----Original Message-----
From: andy quaas <realsquash@yahoo.com>
To: diy efi <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 1:28 PM
Subject: Haltech ECMs


>I went to www.haltech.com.au and found this e6gm ecm.  Supposedly a
>plug-in replacement for certain GM ecms.  Any idea which ones?  I
>searched the archives and found little information.  Any experiences
>with haltech?

There is a demo software at there site, answers alot of FAQ.
MAP types.  TBI/TPI.  Minor repinning for use with anything.
1-3bar MAP sensors.  Something like 22x32 tables.  
No prom R+Rs.  3 gen F-Body GP til 11/16.  Some outfit outta
florida (Force-EFI?), Rob has the answers.  90 warranty.  
Bruce 
>
>Andy Q
>
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 19:05:52 1998
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I talked to Performance Resource today and they have reprogrammed a portion
of the chip where I was having a severe ping with my 90 Vette.  They stated
that they pulled out 3 degrees of advance and richened the mixture.  My
question is, this is a low speed problem, i.e., pulling at 1/3 to /12
throttle from 25 mph to 35 mph.  If the engine is closed loop, how can you
alter the mixture so it is richer.  Is there a table for desired AF ratio
to match the BLM numbers?  They also want me to move my MAT sensor from
where I re-located it (intake tubing) to the stock location in the TPI
plenum.  This will signal the ECM that the air is warmer.  Wouldn't this
tend to lean out the mixture?  I am not sure what they are trying to
accomplish with these changes as they don't make much sense to me.  Does
anyone see the logic in these changes?

Bob T

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 19:15:32 1998
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Propane is not an explosive???  Go back to elementary school young man.  Or,
at least back to basic Jr.  High chemistry!  Propane IS an explosive.  My
proof is the 4200 lb van sitting in my driveway that runs on the stuff.  If
you are still not convinced, turn on the gas (propane) to your barbecue for a
few seconds, lean over the grill, and light a match underneath it.  You should
then be able to witness firsthand whether or not Propane is explosive.  That
is of course if your mommy lets you play with matches.  As for the safety
slobber remark - they make special helmets for people like you, (complete with
face masks for that complete "I'm a moron" look), that cannot tie their
shoelaces and trip on them constantly.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 19:20:39 1998
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Excellent questions! Took the words out of my mouth!  Any suggestions on MAF
to MAP conversion and the flexibility of the '808?

AJL

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 19:22:51 1998
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From: "Curtis Mittong" <poohbear@twd.net>
To: <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: the new guy
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 19:23:27 -0500
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Just a brief intro.  My name is Curtis and I've been restoring (translated:
making a daily driver of) my 66 Bonneville.  I was turned on to the list by
visiting Tom Matthew's page.  I know alot about mechanics of engines, but
I'm afraid I'm short on knowledge in the EFI areas.  I learn very quickly
though and hopefully I can offer useful information instead of just sapping
you folks!  I am a 25-year old student of music at Indiana University of PA,
in Indiana, PA; and my other car is a 96 Impala SS.  Looking forward to much
info!

Curtis Mittong



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From: "ron.boley" <ron.boley@worldnet.att.net>
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Bruce,

Can you advise where one can see these archives (CARB,EPA,SAE)?  Does
one have to belong to these organizations to get access?

Thanks Ron

Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 10:03 PM
> Subject: RE: O2 sensors at WOT?
> 
> >> > man's gas analyzer could be constructed using one heated (to measure
> O2)
> >> > and one unheated to measure hydrocarbons, etc???
> >> No.  What the report said (I read it) was that NO O2 sensor senses O2
> >> at the temperatures that they operate at.  They sense hydrocarbons
> >> only.  The temperature required for them to sense O2 was much higher
> >> than the O2 sensor in a normal exhaust stream was supposed to be
> >
> >I had always heard, but never tested, that the O2 sensor reads *lean*
> >under conditions of a rich misfire, due to lots of O2 in the exhaust.
> >Sounds like this would be an easy test to see if the O2 sensor is
> >really responding to O2 or HC. Comments? Maybe I need to go yank off
> >a plug wire...
> 
> I'd suggest a good going over the archives, there are several reports
> and documents all with slightly different takes on the situations.
> >From CARB_EPA_SAE all have points and counter points.
> Some of the older documents don't even mention thermally compensated
> sensors.  Then are you all talking about just the
> switch type, and or the wide ratio.  Also is the way the sensors
> react to different gases as they heat up
> Cheers
> Bruce
> 
> >
> >   Chris C.
> >

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 20:04:08 1998
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-----Original Message-----
From: ron.boley <ron.boley@worldnet.att.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 7:53 PM
Subject: Re: O2 sensors at WOT?



DIY_EFI Homepage,  Click on Search the archives, go by subject or content.
lots of reading
Bruce

>Bruce,
>
>Can you advise where one can see these archives (CARB,EPA,SAE)?  Does
>one have to belong to these organizations to get access?
>
>Thanks Ron
>
>Bruce Plecan wrote:
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
>> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>> Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 10:03 PM
>> Subject: RE: O2 sensors at WOT?
>>
>> >> > man's gas analyzer could be constructed using one heated (to measure
>> O2)
>> >> > and one unheated to measure hydrocarbons, etc???
>> >> No.  What the report said (I read it) was that NO O2 sensor senses O2
>> >> at the temperatures that they operate at.  They sense hydrocarbons
>> >> only.  The temperature required for them to sense O2 was much higher
>> >> than the O2 sensor in a normal exhaust stream was supposed to be
>> >
>> >I had always heard, but never tested, that the O2 sensor reads *lean*
>> >under conditions of a rich misfire, due to lots of O2 in the exhaust.
>> >Sounds like this would be an easy test to see if the O2 sensor is
>> >really responding to O2 or HC. Comments? Maybe I need to go yank off
>> >a plug wire...
>>
>> I'd suggest a good going over the archives, there are several reports
>> and documents all with slightly different takes on the situations.
>> >From CARB_EPA_SAE all have points and counter points.
>> Some of the older documents don't even mention thermally compensated
>> sensors.  Then are you all talking about just the
>> switch type, and or the wide ratio.  Also is the way the sensors
>> react to different gases as they heat up
>> Cheers
>> Bruce
>>
>> >
>> >   Chris C.
>> >
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 20:24:17 1998
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From: Marc Piccioni <mpiccioni@attcanada.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: EFI
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 22:57:02 -0700
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No suggestions, sorry but I'm interested in your progress as I am also building a 434 SBC. 

----------
From: 	AJLegere@aol.com[SMTP:AJLegere@aol.com]
Sent: 	November 2, 1998 7:56 PM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: EFI

Will this '99 MAF work with a '165 ECM? 
I'm working on a 434 SBC (very over stroked 400 SBC). I'm concerned with the
flow capaciity  or ultimately the pressure drop accross the existing MAF which
came from a donor '87 350 Firebird.
Is the '165 a voltage or frequency output MAF?

Any suggestions?


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3``$````%````4D4Z( ````!+)0`'
`
end


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 20:35:56 1998
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Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 20:35:48 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Update on L-98 Pinging
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At 06:56 PM 11/4/98 -0500, you wrote:
>I talked to Performance Resource today and they have reprogrammed a portion
>of the chip where I was having a severe ping with my 90 Vette.  They stated
>that they pulled out 3 degrees of advance and richened the mixture.  My
>question is, this is a low speed problem, i.e., pulling at 1/3 to /12
>throttle from 25 mph to 35 mph.  If the engine is closed loop, how can you
>alter the mixture so it is richer.  Is there a table for desired AF ratio
>to match the BLM numbers?  They also want me to move my MAT sensor from

They probably made the ECM go to Power Enrichment sooner...

>where I re-located it (intake tubing) to the stock location in the TPI
>plenum.  This will signal the ECM that the air is warmer.  Wouldn't this
>tend to lean out the mixture?  

It mainly affects timing... The warmer the MAT, the less timing the ECM
gives...
This may be how they remove 3 degrees of timing!

Later,
Dave

===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 20:52:47 1998
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Bruce,

I may be missing something but the archives just list references to the
papers.  I'd like to see the actual papers....  How does one do that?

Ron


Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ron.boley <ron.boley@worldnet.att.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 7:53 PM
> Subject: Re: O2 sensors at WOT?
> 
> DIY_EFI Homepage,  Click on Search the archives, go by subject or content.
> lots of reading
> Bruce
> 
> >Bruce,
> >
> >Can you advise where one can see these archives (CARB,EPA,SAE)?  Does
> >one have to belong to these organizations to get access?
> >
> >Thanks Ron
> >
> >Bruce Plecan wrote:
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
> >> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> >> Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 10:03 PM
> >> Subject: RE: O2 sensors at WOT?
> >>
> >> >> > man's gas analyzer could be constructed using one heated (to measure
> >> O2)
> >> >> > and one unheated to measure hydrocarbons, etc???
> >> >> No.  What the report said (I read it) was that NO O2 sensor senses O2
> >> >> at the temperatures that they operate at.  They sense hydrocarbons
> >> >> only.  The temperature required for them to sense O2 was much higher
> >> >> than the O2 sensor in a normal exhaust stream was supposed to be
> >> >
> >> >I had always heard, but never tested, that the O2 sensor reads *lean*
> >> >under conditions of a rich misfire, due to lots of O2 in the exhaust.
> >> >Sounds like this would be an easy test to see if the O2 sensor is
> >> >really responding to O2 or HC. Comments? Maybe I need to go yank off
> >> >a plug wire...
> >>
> >> I'd suggest a good going over the archives, there are several reports
> >> and documents all with slightly different takes on the situations.
> >> >From CARB_EPA_SAE all have points and counter points.
> >> Some of the older documents don't even mention thermally compensated
> >> sensors.  Then are you all talking about just the
> >> switch type, and or the wide ratio.  Also is the way the sensors
> >> react to different gases as they heat up
> >> Cheers
> >> Bruce
> >>
> >> >
> >> >   Chris C.
> >> >
> >
> >

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 21:24:54 1998
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From: "Bill the arcstarter" <arcstarter@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: [Fwd: [M] [M} IC Thermodynamics]- Part 3
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Hello Dave.
 Just a short note.
 
> Propane is not an explosive, and feeding it ahead of the turbo won't
>hurt a thing.  Lots of Diesels do just that as a power booster, and


This is good to know.  I plan on doing some sort of propane EFI project 
in the very near future, if I can find the proper (or even the wrong) 
injectors for the job...


> I just love gratuitous safety slobber.  Shoelaces!  Did you know if
>your shoelace came untied, you could trip and fall, and your head would
>split open like a rotten cantaloupe because you weren't wearing a crash
>helmet?!  Shoelaces are only for the use of trained professionals...

Geez.  Next you're going to tell me that you actually DRIVE your car 
around...  How wreckless...

>==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
>I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
>my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?

Domo ari gato Mr. Roboto!

-Bill

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

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Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 20:15:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [Fwd: [M] [M} IC Thermodynamics]- Part 3
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059
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-> Propane is not an explosive???  Go back to elementary school young
-> man.  Or, at least back to basic Jr.  High chemistry!  Propane IS an
-> explosive.  My proof is the 4200 lb van sitting in my driveway that
-> runs on the stuff.  If you are still not convinced, turn on the gas
-> (propane) to your barbecue for a few seconds, lean over the grill,
-> and light a match underneath it.  You should then be able to witness
-> firsthand whether or not Propane is explosive.

 Proof?  All your demonstration proves is that propane is flammable.

 Look up the difference between "flammable" and "explosive."  There is a
difference.

==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?
=================================== http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm
                   

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Nov  4 22:15:22 1998
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Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 22:15:13 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: GM P6 PCM
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Well,
Making progress with the P6 PCM from my 95 LeSabre...
Delco came back and said the 16156598 chip is the GMP6 CPU and it is a
variant of the Motorola MC68HC11F1 (Though GM/Delco discontinued it...).
I've been tracing address lines and data lines...
Data Lines D0 thru D7 go to: pins 42-35 on the 16056597 chip (52 Pin PLCC),
Pins 43,42,39-34 on the 16072449 chip (68 pin PLCC) and pins 5-2 & 67-63 on
the 16066285 chip (68 pin PLCC).
Address lines A0-A15 all go to the Memcal (27C512 chip), but A0-A10 only go
to pins 53 & 51-42 of the 16066285 chip... None of the address lines go to
any of the other large chips on the board.
Not sure if this helps anyone or not, and hopefully will have a little more
info from Delco on the rest of the chips in the next day or so.

Thanks,
Dave


===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

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