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Date: 01 Jan 99 21:13:41 +1200
From: "Tom Parker" <tparker@nznet.gen.nz>
Subject: Re: oops... (was Re: Nology)
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Bill the arcstarter <arcstarter@hotmail.com> wrote:

[killing speed camera photos]

>Oh - that sounds nice.  I had thought about a constant IR lamp blaring
>on the plate to fog the film.  Possibly via infrared leds/diode
>modules...  Most b/w film is sensitive to IR or so I'm told...

This might work, but I would think you would need a rather powerful source.
In order to completely burn out the film  you need a huge amount of light, I
have got usable images from film overexposed by 3 or 4 stops.

I imagine a flash aimed at the number plate would be most effective. If the
flash is pointing at the camera, and is near the plate, you might have some
luck, but the camera will be doing its best to keep the light from the flash
in the area of the film where the flash is, not where the plate is. You would
only get light that is scattered inside the camera going from the flash to the
image of the number plate.

At least, this is how I see it.

The other problem with slave flash units is that they are very sensitive. If
they see any kind of very fast rising light source, they go off.
Photographers have problems with slaves triggering off strobes in shop windows
far away from where they are photographing...

The local police claimed that the idea would not work. They didn't give any
convincing reasons for it. They went on about how fast the shutter is, but the
flash is much much faster...

--
Tom Parker - tparker@nznet.gen.nz
           - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/


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From: Mos <s2193387@cse.unsw.edu.au>
To: Bill the arcstarter <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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An option I have been exploring was to use an LCD panel infront of the
number plate which turns opaque when it detects a flash. I've seen things
like that used on welding goggles, but I'm wondering whether it would be
fast enough to activate in the case of a flash? How fast are the slave
flash units? Would they activate before the light from the flash reaches
the camera?
The LCD would in reality need to activate before the light reached the
number plate. If the sensor is mounted on the bumper, considering light
travels at around 3e+8m/s it doesn't leave much time for the LCD to
activate, but since it's been done with welding goggles I guess it could
work...
Just a thought..
Mos.
Oh yeah, Happy New Year  :)

On 1 Jan 1999, Tom Parker wrote:

M>Bill the arcstarter <arcstarter@hotmail.com> wrote:
M>
M>[killing speed camera photos]
M>
M>>Oh - that sounds nice.  I had thought about a constant IR lamp blaring
M>>on the plate to fog the film.  Possibly via infrared leds/diode
M>>modules...  Most b/w film is sensitive to IR or so I'm told...
M>
M>This might work, but I would think you would need a rather powerful source.
M>In order to completely burn out the film  you need a huge amount of light, I
M>have got usable images from film overexposed by 3 or 4 stops.
M>
M>I imagine a flash aimed at the number plate would be most effective. If the
M>flash is pointing at the camera, and is near the plate, you might have some
M>luck, but the camera will be doing its best to keep the light from the flash
M>in the area of the film where the flash is, not where the plate is. You would
M>only get light that is scattered inside the camera going from the flash to the
M>image of the number plate.
M>
M>At least, this is how I see it.
M>
M>The other problem with slave flash units is that they are very sensitive. If
M>they see any kind of very fast rising light source, they go off.
M>Photographers have problems with slaves triggering off strobes in shop windows
M>far away from where they are photographing...
M>
M>The local police claimed that the idea would not work. They didn't give any
M>convincing reasons for it. They went on about how fast the shutter is, but the
M>flash is much much faster...
M>
M>--
M>Tom Parker - tparker@nznet.gen.nz
M>           - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/
M>

--
+----------------------------------------------------+
|           Jealousy is a lifelong curse...          |
|     Reality is the only obstacle to happiness.     |
|              Taciturnity is aurous.                |
+----------------------------------------------------+
| Lukasz Szymanski,                       /\/\OSFET  |
| 3rd Yr, BE(Comp)/MBiomedE                       |--+
| The University of New South Wales            __||<-+
| Email: s2193387@cse.unsw.edu.au                 |--|
| Web: http://www.cse.unsw.edu.au/~s2193387/         |
+----------------------------------------------------+


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  1 05:39:24 1999
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From: "Geoff Richards" <geoffsue@one.net.au>
To: "Diy_Efi" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Power ground
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 11:43:00 +1100
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Anyone have time to explain the difference between 'ground' and
'powerground'?
TIA
Geoff


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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  1 09:38:14 1999
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In a message dated 12/31/98 6:16:23 PM Central Standard Time,
cosmic.ray@juno.com writes:

<< egulator that will supply 12-16v (@ up to 40a >>
If all you want is 16v the cars alternator can supply that easily
But a performance pump would be the one to go

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  1 11:18:49 1999
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From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Chemical warfare
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>Um... Mr Breitwieser?  Are you the type who likes to put old CDs in the
>microwave for ten seconds or so?  Did you ever make Estes rockets when

Ray, simple answer : Yes, when I was younger :)  Now, I just detonate
engines ;)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
1973 Lincoln Continental (460cid)
1975 Dodge D200 3/4 ton Club Cab
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

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On 01 Jan 99 21:13:41 +1200 "Tom Parker" <tparker@nznet.gen.nz> writes:
>Bill the arcstarter <arcstarter@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>[killing speed camera photos]
>
>>Oh - that sounds nice.  I had thought about a constant IR lamp blaring
>>on the plate to fog the film.  Possibly via infrared leds/diode
>>modules...  Most b/w film is sensitive to IR or so I'm told...
>
>This might work, but I would think you would need a rather powerful
source.
>In order to completely burn out the film  you need a huge amount of
light, I
>have got usable images from film overexposed by 3 or 4 stops.
>
>I imagine a flash aimed at the number plate would be most effective. If
the
>flash is pointing at the camera, and is near the plate, you might have
some
>luck, but the camera will be doing its best to keep the light from the
flash
>in the area of the film where the flash is, not where the plate is. You
would
>only get light that is scattered inside the camera going from the flash
to the
>image of the number plate.
>
>At least, this is how I see it.
>
>The other problem with slave flash units is that they are very
sensitive. If
>they see any kind of very fast rising light source, they go off.
>Photographers have problems with slaves triggering off strobes in shop
windows
>far away from where they are photographing...
>
>The local police claimed that the idea would not work. They didn't give
any
>convincing reasons for it. They went on about how fast the shutter is,
but the
>flash is much much faster...
>
>--
>Tom Parker - tparker@nznet.gen.nz
>           - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/
>

I would point the flash at my plate to avoid being accused of blinding
other drivers.  Also, since my plate is blue with white letters, I would
put a blue filter on the flash to reduce the contrast between the letters
and the background.  Another option would be to project an image on the
plate with the flash.  If it is lit with blue light that has a mottled
"texture", it would be extremely difficult to read.  You wouldn't need to
use enough brute power to wash out the film, that way.  Just obscure the
image.

Ray

___________________________________________________________________
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EE designers like to separate all grounds digital, analog and
power.  This can avoid transient voltage spikes on one ground
line affecting another ground line, or any voltage differences on
ground lines.  There are some design schemes to reconnect the 
grounds such as the Starr, found in alot of A/D reports   
alex
> Anyone have time to explain the difference between 'ground' and
> 'powerground'?
> TIA
> Geoff
 

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I like your idea of an LCD screen similar to the expensive welding hoods. The
opaquing action would not have to outrun the light, only go dark before the camera
lens had collected sufficient light. Anybody know the shutter speed used?

Maybe, instead of going completely opaque, we can display large text, light on a
dark background... the camera could be induced to record some appropriate expletive,
instead of the license number ;-}

Mos wrote:

> An option I have been exploring was to use an LCD panel infront of the
> number plate which turns opaque when it detects a flash. I've seen things
> like that used on welding goggles, but I'm wondering whether it would be
> fast enough to activate in the case of a flash? How fast are the slave
> flash units? Would they activate before the light from the flash reaches
> the camera?
> The LCD would in reality need to activate before the light reached the
> number plate. If the sensor is mounted on the bumper, considering light
> travels at around 3e+8m/s it doesn't leave much time for the LCD to
> activate, but since it's been done with welding goggles I guess it could
> work...
> Just a thought..
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  1 14:42:09 1999
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Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 11:46:05 -0800
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: oops... (was Re: Nology)
In-Reply-To: <32C96662.D0AE7A42@ptialaska.net>
References: <Pine.GSO.3.95.990101201128.1644A-100000@mozart.orchestra.cse.unsw.EDU.AU>
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You would sell a lot in Scottsdale Arizona ;-). I was there on business,
and they had the Photo Radar BS things all over the place. I think they got
me in my rental car, just havent seen the ticket yet.  Really pissed me of
the more I thought about the whole thing, next thing you know I'll have a
camera on my front door making sure my socks match and then a printer at
the end of the walkway to pick up my fine.

Sandy

At 10:15 AM 12/31/96 -0900, you wrote:
>I like your idea of an LCD screen similar to the expensive welding hoods. The
>opaquing action would not have to outrun the light, only go dark before the 
>camera
>lens had collected sufficient light. Anybody know the shutter speed used?
>
>Maybe, instead of going completely opaque, we can display large text, light 
>on a
>dark background... the camera could be induced to record some appropriate 
>expletive,
>instead of the license number ;-}
>
>Mos wrote:
>
>> An option I have been exploring was to use an LCD panel infront of the
>> number plate which turns opaque when it detects a flash. I've seen things
>> like that used on welding goggles, but I'm wondering whether it would be
>> fast enough to activate in the case of a flash? How fast are the slave
>> flash units? Would they activate before the light from the flash reaches
>> the camera?
>> The LCD would in reality need to activate before the light reached the
>> number plate. If the sensor is mounted on the bumper, considering light
>> travels at around 3e+8m/s it doesn't leave much time for the LCD to
>> activate, but since it's been done with welding goggles I guess it could
>> work...
>> Just a thought..
>>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  1 15:02:17 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: oops... (was Re: Nology)
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-----Original Message-----
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, January 01, 1999 2:50 PM
Subject: Re: oops... (was Re: Nology)

Everthing was fine till ya mentioned socks, now Grumpy, Doc, Sleepy, and
Dopey
are all PO'd.  I hate when that happens, last time weapons cleaning took
place
shortly there after.
Happy Hew Year's from CSH, HQ
Bruce, and the Staff


>You would sell a lot in Scottsdale Arizona ;-). I was there on business,
>and they had the Photo Radar BS things all over the place. I think they got
>me in my rental car, just havent seen the ticket yet.  Really pissed me of
>the more I thought about the whole thing, next thing you know I'll have a
>camera on my front door making sure my socks match and then a printer at
>the end of the walkway to pick up my fine.
>
>Sandy
>
>At 10:15 AM 12/31/96 -0900, you wrote:
>>I like your idea of an LCD screen similar to the expensive welding hoods.
The
>>opaquing action would not have to outrun the light, only go dark before
the
>>camera
>>lens had collected sufficient light. Anybody know the shutter speed used?
>>
>>Maybe, instead of going completely opaque, we can display large text,
light
>>on a
>>dark background... the camera could be induced to record some appropriate
>>expletive,
>>instead of the license number ;-}
>>
>>Mos wrote:
>>
>>> An option I have been exploring was to use an LCD panel infront of the
>>> number plate which turns opaque when it detects a flash. I've seen
things
>>> like that used on welding goggles, but I'm wondering whether it would be
>>> fast enough to activate in the case of a flash? How fast are the slave
>>> flash units? Would they activate before the light from the flash reaches
>>> the camera?
>>> The LCD would in reality need to activate before the light reached the
>>> number plate. If the sensor is mounted on the bumper, considering light
>>> travels at around 3e+8m/s it doesn't leave much time for the LCD to
>>> activate, but since it's been done with welding goggles I guess it could
>>> work...
>>> Just a thought..
>>>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  1 15:31:25 1999
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Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 15:30:40 EST
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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If it has a Pontiac 350 V8, Summit Racing (Akron, Ohio, USA) lists
headers with .049" mandrel bent tubes, blah-blah-blah..
 for US$79.50   Summit Part# SUM-G9020
Chevy V8 is # SUM-G9005
Do you know which V8 you have?
Plugs below manifolds=Chev
Plugs above manifolds=Pontiac
HTH
Mike V
>  I am tunning a Pontiac Firebird with a 350 Gm engine and am seeking 
> information on exhaust headers.  Anybody recomend a type or supplier for 
> these please, bearing in mind i have relocated the oil filter. 
>  

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  1 15:48:35 1999
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From: bob@bobthecomputerguy.com (Robert Harris)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, fanglers@xephic.dynip.com
Subject: Random thoughts
Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 20:47:59 GMT
Organization: Bob - the Computer Guy
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Water injection and corrosion and other such concerns.  You do understand that
the combustion of the hydrogen component of fuel with oxygen results in water
and that that's typically about two gallons of water for every gallon of
gasoline burned. Adding water is kinda like peeing in a river - not gonna
change much ( as far as corrosion goes )

Acetone.  Octane about 120 or so.  Primary use as an anti-phase separation
agent at about 10%.  Extreme affinity with water.  Blends with alcohol, water,
gasoline, nitromethane and most other fluids.  Auto ignition temp from about
that of methanol alcohol to over 1000F depending on who and how its tested.
Stoic about 9.5 to 1, heat energy higher that of ethanol, but lower that
gasoline.  Used since moby dick was a minnow to blend various fuel components
that are subject to phase separation together.  Low flash point in comparison
to Nitromethane and Alcohol is helpful in igniting such mixtures easier.

Model fuel.   Typically a blend of Lubricant ( Castor Oil or synthetic castor
oil), methanol and nitromethane.   Nitro percentage ranges from zero to 60 %.
Price varies on percentage.   Model boat fuel - 60% nitro runs about 35$ US
per gallon.  Synthetic castor oil preferred by the modelers.  Note - adding
acetone to this would make it blendable in a water injection system.

Nitromethane and gasoline.  Up to 10% nitromethane can be blended with
gasoline by preblending the nitromethane with equal parts nitro and acetone.
Nitropropane or Nitrobenzene preferred as they blend much better and can be
used at higher ratios.   Higher amount of nitro really should be introduced as
separate BI-FUEL system if you intend to keep burning gasoline.

H2O2 - Hydrogen peroxide.  8% max over the counter.  33% max industrial.
Higher % require special handling included full body suits.  An unpleasant
side effect of neat H2O2 is that it will virtually instantaneously dissolve
human flesh to the bone.  Be careful of any joy juice you make that involves
H2O2  - Hydrazine for example, explodes ( not burns!) on contact with H2O2.
Many other nitrogen based compounds have greatly accelerated burn
characteristics around H2O2.  Note - H2O2 is an early combustion product and
some sources seem to suggest that the addition of some amount of these
products such as formaldehyde or H2O2 will spike the combustion and result in
faster combustion during the induction period.  One of the reasons hydrazine
results in big power boosts in very small percentages is that it adds free
hydrogen and large amounts of energy in the early induction period. This
greatly assists in the tearing apart of the HC molecule and making its energy
available faster.

Mono propellants - be very wary.  Any fuel either a blend of chemicals, or a
true chemical monopropellent  ( Mono - latin for one - one chemical as a
propellent - not a blend mix or whatever ), is subject to flash back.  I.E.
once ignited, it needs no outside source of oxygen or ignition to keep burning
- you don't want it to start traveling back to the storage tank do you.  

Ammonia Nitrate - commercially available as fertilizer.  Totally dissolves in
water.  Minerals drop out.  You may seriously consider using the resultant
stew as water injection. Solves the problem of not being blendable with
petroleum based fluids nicely. 

Just some catching up thoughts - was out of the PDRC for a couple of weeks.

The Luddites were RIGHT!!

Habaneros - not just for breakfast anymore

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  1 16:48:12 1999
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In a message dated 12/31/98 4:54:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
pfenske@bcit.bc.ca writes:

>  To set the cy select insert $00 not FF for V8
>  This allows the code to bypass the scaling

 I'm always getting in over my head..
Uh, what is this scaling you write about??
Please tell me more..
Thanks,
Mike V

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  1 16:58:31 1999
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--------------02BC8155D03A4C2BCB9EEA49
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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Oh yea - one more thing - you don't need to trigger the LCD from a camera flash, just
drive it from a RADAR detector. Pick the signal off the red LED, and throw in a 10
second delay before the LCD is allowed to return to normal.

Now we have :
                        LCD hood - $250
                        RADAR detector : $100
                        555 delay timer    : $.50     555 design

Remember - Never build it if you can buy it...



--------------02BC8155D03A4C2BCB9EEA49
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
&nbsp;
<p>Oh yea - one more thing - you don't need to trigger the LCD from a camera
flash, just drive it from a RADAR detector. Pick the signal off the red
LED, and throw in a 10 second delay before the LCD is allowed to return
to normal.
<p>Now we have :
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
LCD hood - $250
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
RADAR detector : $100
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
555 delay timer&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; : $.50&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <a href="http://www.schematica.com/Free/Free.htm">555
design</a>
<p>Remember - Never build it if you can buy it...
<br>&nbsp;
<br>&nbsp;</html>

--------------02BC8155D03A4C2BCB9EEA49--


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  1 17:47:56 1999
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Subject: Re: Has anyone looked at this
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APPY NEUVE YAR ( My head still hurts but )

Gm ecms(ECU) read time in ticks between ref pulses. The time between
ref pulses for a 4 cyl is twice as long as for a V8.

So for a 4 cyl we scale by ($80/256) for a V6 by ($C0/256)

This gives up the same ticks/rpm we would get for a V8 application

So we can use the same code..

Tell Bruce to make sure the M0 M1 decode is right for the
calpak used.

:peter





ECMnut@aol.com on 01/01/99 01:47:12 PM

Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
                                                              
                                                              
                                                              
 To:      diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu                   
                                                              
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 Subject: Re: Has anyone looked at this                       
                                                              








In a message dated 12/31/98 4:54:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
pfenske@bcit.bc.ca writes:

>  To set the cy select insert $00 not FF for V8
>  This allows the code to bypass the scaling

 I'm always getting in over my head..
Uh, what is this scaling you write about??
Please tell me more..
Thanks,
Mike V




From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  1 18:16:03 1999
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-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Fenske <pfenske@bcit.bc.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, January 01, 1999 6:02 PM
Subject: Re: Has anyone looked at this


OK, what's the M0 M1 decode, 
I was working with a memcal from a 89 F-Body 1227165 ecm.
My head hurts, just wish it was from the bubbly.  
Bruce      M Stewart failed to show for X-Mas, New Years Eve, and
              New Year's Day she just might find herself off the CSH. HQ
              auto invite list..............      

>
>
>APPY NEUVE YAR ( My head still hurts but )
>Gm ecms(ECU) read time in ticks between ref pulses. The time between
>ref pulses for a 4 cyl is twice as long as for a V8.
>So for a 4 cyl we scale by ($80/256) for a V6 by ($C0/256)
>This gives up the same ticks/rpm we would get for a V8 application
>So we can use the same code..
>Tell Bruce to make sure the M0 M1 decode is right for the
>calpak used.
>:peter
>
>
> Subject: Re: Has anyone looked at this                       
>pfenske@bcit.bc.ca writes:
>>  To set the cy select insert $00 not FF for V8
>>  This allows the code to bypass the scaling
> I'm always getting in over my head..
>Uh, what is this scaling you write about??
>Please tell me more..
>Thanks,
>Mike V



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  1 20:01:47 1999
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Date: 02 Jan 99 13:45:01 +1200
From: "Tom Parker" <tparker@nznet.gen.nz>
Subject: Re: oops... (was Re: Nology)
To: "Ronald T. Webb" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
In-Reply-To: <32C96662.D0AE7A42@ptialaska.net>
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Ronald T. Webb <rwebb@ptialaska.net> wrote:

>I like your idea of an LCD screen similar to the expensive welding hoods. The
>opaquing action would not have to outrun the light, only go dark before the
>camera lens had collected sufficient light. Anybody know the shutter speed
>used?

There are two sources of light used to expose the film. First is the flash
from the speed camera, the second is the ambient light hanging around. The
shutter speed is likely to be around 1/125 to 1/250 of a second, certainly no
faster than 1/500. Camera flahes have very short durations. I don't know how
quickly the light builds up from the flash, but any trigger circuit would need
to detect the flash building up and get the LCD opaque before enough light had
arived.

The effect of the ambient light would be interesting, since this light is
always there, and the flash is triggered somewhere in the middle of the
exposure. The shutter opens fully, then the flash fires, and the shutter
closes. Depending on the power of the flash and the distance from the camera
to the car, ambient light would probably have no real effect on the image.

--
Tom Parker - tparker@nznet.gen.nz
           - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  1 21:49:20 1999
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From: Jemison Richard <JemisonR@tce.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: oops... (was Re: Nology)
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 21:49:06 -0500 
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Do you have a source for this LCD Hood?   This is starting to get
interesting!

Rick

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Ronald T. Webb [SMTP:rwebb@ptialaska.net]
> Sent:	Tuesday, December 31, 1996 4:58 PM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: oops... (was Re: Nology)
> 
>   
> 
> Oh yea - one more thing - you don't need to trigger the LCD from a camera
> flash, just drive it from a RADAR detector. Pick the signal off the red
> LED, and throw in a 10 second delay before the LCD is allowed to return to
> normal. 
> 
> Now we have : 
>                         LCD hood - $250 
>                         RADAR detector : $100 
>                         555 delay timer    : $.50     555 design
> <http://www.schematica.com/Free/Free.htm> 
> 
> Remember - Never build it if you can buy it... 
>   
>  

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  1 21:57:44 1999
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Those hoods are available at any welding supply house.

Jemison Richard wrote:

> Do you have a source for this LCD Hood?   This is starting to get
> interesting!


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  1 23:40:54 1999
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>Water injection and corrosion and other such concerns.
>
>Ammonia Nitrate - commercially available as fertilizer.  Totally dissolves in
>water.  Minerals drop out.  You may seriously consider using the resultant
>stew as water injection. Solves the problem of not being blendable with
>petroleum based fluids nicely.
>
ERRHM--

"Minerals drop out"--?? You mean something precipitates out when you
dissolve the prell in water?? Any idea what?? Or what is usual??

Got any data handy on  the effect of % by weight NH4-NO3  dissolved in H2O
on freexing temperature of the H2O??

Sounds to me like this might well out-do alky as a practical antifreeze for
an H2O injection system!!!  Might even be available in, say, Baja!!---- :-)
(Not that one should expect to need antifreeze there, but you know how it
is!)

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  1 23:49:28 1999
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>Oh yea - one more thing - you don't need to trigger the LCD from a camera
>flash, just
>drive it from a RADAR detector. Pick the signal off the red LED, and throw
>in a 10
>second delay before the LCD is allowed to return to normal.
>
Great thinkin' as to how to turn on any such countermeasures!!

Mebbe a mottled pattern high intensity light, filtered to match a plate
color and aimed at the plate would work better (and cheaper) than an LED
screen. (Plus it would, technically, not be "obscuring" the plate.) Make it
a thirty second delay, and add a light for the rear plate just to be sure!

Nest question--what do we use to trigger (turn on) the same lights in the
presence of one of the roadside smog sniffers (which I think are infra-red
based.)

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 01:21:40 1999
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From: "Ross Myers" <ponty@axis.jeack.com.au>
To: "EFI List" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: S19 Files
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 17:25:10 +1100
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I've noticed some people have posted up ROM Dumps as Motorola S19 files.
Does anybody have or know where to get an S19 - Bin converter?.

Regards

Ross Myers


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 03:57:37 1999
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> I've noticed some people have posted up ROM Dumps as Motorola S19 files.
> Does anybody have or know where to get an S19 - Bin converter?.

http://www.mcu.motsps.com/freeweb/pub/ibm/s2bin.exe

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 05:54:28 1999
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Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 04:55:43 -0600
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How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that
capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.???

Regards  Tom

BossOz@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 12/31/98 6:16:23 PM Central Standard Time,
> cosmic.ray@juno.com writes:
>
> << egulator that will supply 12-16v (@ up to 40a >>
> If all you want is 16v the cars alternator can supply that easily
> But a performance pump would be the one to go




From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 08:43:02 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Sharpe <twsharpe@mtco.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 6:07 AM
Subject: Re: Voltage regulator

My thoughts on the Big Pump are using a PWM scheme, anything below
x amount of TPS, or x MAP, and it goes on.  Really early in the timing of
events so as to have time to be up to speed, for big demand.  Popular
Electronics had a Motor Speed Contoller Article within the last 2 years
that gave some details about freq for the PWM, and used a couple 555
to run a Power MOSFET, which could be ganged for big outputs.
Cheers
Bruce      Doc is Happy we got like a foot of snow overnight,  and he
               wants to go skiing.  Time to get the boat and trailer out..
              


>How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that
>capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.???
>
>Regards  Tom
>
>BossOz@aol.com wrote:
>
>> In a message dated 12/31/98 6:16:23 PM Central Standard Time,
>> cosmic.ray@juno.com writes:
>>
>> << egulator that will supply 12-16v (@ up to 40a >>
>> If all you want is 16v the cars alternator can supply that easily
>> But a performance pump would be the one to go
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 09:56:46 1999
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In a message dated 1/1/99 5:56:37 PM Eastern Standard Time, pfenske@bcit.bc.ca
writes:

>  Tell Bruce to make sure the M0 M1 decode is right for the
>  calpak used.

And just what the heck is THAT?   8~)
Thanks,
MikeV

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Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 09:02:35 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Barry Tisdale <btisdale@cybersol.com>
Subject: Voltage regulator
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Thanks to all who responded to my question on the fuel pump voltage booster.

Replacing the stock pump w/ a higher output unit just became mandatory for me, however.  I was getting a code 'rich' and found the fuel pressure reg stuck @ 90psi, with leakback thru the pressure line.  Replaced the regulator, but apparently working @ 90+psi caused something in the tank (pump? pulsator?) to spring a leak.  Project for next weekend!

Thanks - Barry	 	

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 11:24:27 1999
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From: Dodge1979@webtv.net (Roger Anderson)
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 10:24:25 -0600 (CST)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: conversion....
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anyone know how to convert inches(mg?) manifold pressure (aviation) to
psi?
thanks,
rog


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 11:32:42 1999
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Voltage regulator
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>How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that
>capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.???
>
>Regards  Tom
>
Oh Yeah, it will!!!

Regards, Greg



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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Didn't someone upload the fit.zip file that went with the injector
flowbench article from PE magazine?  I thought so, but I can't find it. 
Anyway, if someone has it, or knows where it is on the FTP site, please
let me know so I can help this person, and add a link in the FTP site
index.  thanks

--steve


--
Steve Ravet
sravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, INC
www.arm.com
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Subject: EFI software
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Steve Ia am having trouble find a site to download the file (fit.zip) that
is talked about in Members nd Projects section.  It is in the article from
the Performance Engineering Magazine on building a injector flow bench.
I have tried to get in touch with John De Armond the author, but have no
success.  If you could give me a hint as where I might be able to download
this file it would be a big help.  Thanks Randy Calley



--------------6075ED02A33B765A2D5EF048--


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 11:55:35 1999
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Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 11:54:46 EST
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Subject: Re: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters
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In a message dated 1/2/99 11:38:18 AM Eastern Standard Time, bearbvd@sni.net
writes:

> >How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that
>  >capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.???

Some Buick & Syphoon turbo blokes use a *staged* pump
arrangement that allows you to pre-set the boost level at which
a second in-tank pump is switched on.  The kit includes a 30amp
relay and wire harness, etc   I believe one such kitt is available from ATR
Some users of this setup report a 2-5 psi jump in pressure when the 
extra fuel volume, from a second Walbro 308 pump, hits the FP regulator .
 I only wish to own/operate such a thirsty beast in my lifetime.  8~)
    Mike V

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 12:01:05 1999
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Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 12:01:48 -0500
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Bill the arcstarter wrote:
> 
> Greg wrote:
> >And, while I am straying off list subjects--has anyone else seen the
> >news about a British photographer having applied for a patent for
> >using what is known in his trade as a "slave flash unit" for many
> >non-photographic applications, one of which was mounting such a unit
> >as one would mount either a driving and/or a back-up light for the
> >purpose of completely washing out the film image in a photo-radar
> >camera???? :-) (I happen to hate big brother stuff every bit as much
> >as I hate snake oil!!)
> 
> Oh - that sounds nice.  I had thought about a constant IR lamp blaring
> on the plate to fog the film.  Possibly via infrared leds/diode
> modules...  Most b/w film is sensitive to IR or so I'm told...
> 
> -Bill
> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
But video tape is not? Digital photography allows them to "lift" numbers
from dirty plates etc by changing Gamma correction.

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 12:14:03 1999
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Geoff Richards wrote:
> 
> Anyone have time to explain the difference between 'ground' and
> 'powerground'?
> TIA
> Geoff
I'll give it a crack.
In a DC power system on a car, the negative(usually) terminal uses a
"chassis ground" for power "return".This is your "power ground". It can
have a voltage drop of up to .1 volt across it for accessory and
charging loads, and up to one volt for starter loads.
For signal circuits, such as sensors, sometimes the .1 volt drop across
the frame ground could cause calibration errors, so a "signal ground" is
provided. Sometimes the signal can even "float" above chassis ground, as
through a protection diode with a, say, .6 volt forward voltage drop.
Can't use chassis ground return for such a signal.
Hope this helps understand it.

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 12:55:35 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Ravet <steve.ravet@arm.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 11:59 AM
Subject: [Fwd: EFI software]

Numerous folks have looked for fit., but I haven't heard of anyone finding
it.
Bruce


>Didn't someone upload the fit.zip file that went with the injector
>flowbench article from PE magazine?  I thought so, but I can't find it.
>Anyway, if someone has it, or knows where it is on the FTP site, please
>let me know so I can help this person, and add a link in the FTP site
>index.  thanks
>
>--steve
>
>
>--
>Steve Ravet
>sravet@arm.com
>Advanced Risc Machines, INC
>www.arm.com


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 12:56:38 1999
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Tom Sharpe wrote:
> 
> How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that
> capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.???
> 
> Regards  Tom
> 
Already been done by Paxton.
"The Brain Pump Computer automatically reduces your high output fuel
pump's flow during street operation for improved efficiency. With the
flip of a switch, it creates a 2.4 voltage drop, reducing fuel flow and
allowing the pump to run cooler during street operation enhancing its
longlevity. Flip the switch back, and the pump returns to its normal
high volume flow."
Could be trigered by TPS or MAP.
Summit Racing part nu. pax-8002048 $119.95


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 13:01:55 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Voltage regulator
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At 04:55 AM 1/2/99 -0600, you wrote:
>How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that
>capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.???
>

That would be almost as bad as overvoltage...  Under voltage can kill them
as well.
===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

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-----Original Message-----
From: David A. Cooley <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Voltage regulator

Hence, the proper answer of PWM.
Bruce


>>How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that
>>capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.???
>
>That would be almost as bad as overvoltage...  Under voltage can kill them
>as well.
>===========================================================
>           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
>     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
>       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be
approximated.
>===========================================================
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 13:55:04 1999
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters
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>In a message dated 1/2/99 11:38:18 AM Eastern Standard Time, bearbvd@sni.net
>writes:
>
>> >How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that
>>  >capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.???
>
>Some Buick & Syphoon turbo blokes use a *staged* pump
>arrangement that allows you to pre-set the boost level at which
>a second in-tank pump is switched on.  The kit includes a 30amp
>relay and wire harness, etc   I believe one such kitt is available from ATR

Who and where is ATR??

>Some users of this setup report a 2-5 psi jump in pressure when the
>extra fuel volume, from a second Walbro 308 pump,

See the comment below, but this jump is simply demonstrating what I am
talking about below in terms of accuracy of pressure regulation. The port
in the regulator used is not big enough, plus it needs time to react.

Who is Walbro, where are they.??

Basically, I am looking for sources for good quality, large volume, but
really don't have to be high pressure, submersible fuel pumps.
Controlled voltage to a pump is still more elegant than staging, since
varying voltage to a DC motor varies its speed (and therefore the volume
output) infinitely.  Hence the desire for variable speed pump drive. Tom is
RIGHT! Running a big pump at lower voltage/speed most of the time will do
the job, and increase pump life IMPRESSIVELY!
If one wants to get seriously complicated, it is very feasible to vary the
speed of one pump, and then stage in a second, constant speed pump for big
loads. (The first, variable speed, pump slows back down when the second
pump first comes on, then speeds back up as load increases further.)

 hits the FP regulator .

It is way easier (and much more efficient and accurate) to regulate
pressure precisely if flow through the pressure regulator is fairly
constant.

> I only wish to own/operate such a thirsty beast in my lifetime.  8~)

The output would certainly be nice, but maybe with about 10% less thirst
would be even nicer!! :-)

Regards, Greg
>    Mike V



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 14:01:21 1999
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>anyone know how to convert inches(mg?) manifold pressure (aviation) to
>psi?
>thanks,
>rog

29.92 inches of mercury = 14.69 psia=1 atmosphere.

So, 1 inch of HG =  .491 psi.

Going on memory of the numbers, this is plenty accurate for engine work,
but DO NOT use it for calibrating an altimeter which might be depended upon
to keep you from flying into the ground (As in SPLAT :-(  !!! )

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 14:25:26 1999
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<< >Some Buick & Syphoon turbo blokes use a *staged* pump
> >arrangement that allows you to pre-set the boost level at which
> >a second in-tank pump is switched on.  The kit includes a 30amp
> >relay and wire harness, etc   I believe one such kitt is available from ATR
 
> Who and where is ATR?? >>
Sorry, about that
Applied Technologies and Research, Inc (ATR)
17040 S. Hwy 11
Fair Play, SC 29643
(864) 972 3800
(864) 972 4900 FAX

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 14:27:22 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: Voltage regulator
In-Reply-To: <368DFB2F.2668343E@mtco.com>
References: <2e357e33.368cdda5@aol.com>
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Someone, might be barry grant ties the engine rpm to a controller that cuts
the voltage to the pump. Would be pretty easy to make with  a couple of parts. 

Sandy

At 04:55 AM 1/2/99 -0600, you wrote:
>How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that
>capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.???
>
>Regards  Tom
>
>BossOz@aol.com wrote:
>
>> In a message dated 12/31/98 6:16:23 PM Central Standard Time,
>> cosmic.ray@juno.com writes:
>>
>> << egulator that will supply 12-16v (@ up to 40a >>
>> If all you want is 16v the cars alternator can supply that easily
>> But a performance pump would be the one to go
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 14:31:52 1999
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Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 13:32:13 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Clarence Wood <clarencewood@centuryinter.net>
Subject: Re: Power ground
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  I have a 1982 280ZX turbo with the Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection.  I have been told that after modifying timing, etc. the battery ground should be disconnected for a period of time in order to reset the ECM.  I have also been told that both, negative and positive, terminals should be disconnected.  The time interval has been anywhere from 5 min to overnight.  Does the power ground,  as described below, explain why both terminals should be disconnected to reset the ECM??  Or am I reading to much into what is being said?  Could someone please tell me the correct way to reset the ECM?

At 12:14 PM 1/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Geoff Richards wrote:
>> 
>> Anyone have time to explain the difference between 'ground' and
>> 'powerground'?
>> TIA
>> Geoff
>I'll give it a crack.
>In a DC power system on a car, the negative(usually) terminal uses a
>"chassis ground" for power "return".This is your "power ground". It can
>have a voltage drop of up to .1 volt across it for accessory and
>charging loads, and up to one volt for starter loads.
>For signal circuits, such as sensors, sometimes the .1 volt drop across
>the frame ground could cause calibration errors, so a "signal ground" is
>provided. Sometimes the signal can even "float" above chassis ground, as
>through a protection diode with a, say, .6 volt forward voltage drop.
>Can't use chassis ground return for such a signal.
>Hope this helps understand it.
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 14:40:33 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters
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At 11:52 AM 1/2/99 -0700, you wrote:

>>Some Buick & Syphoon turbo blokes use a *staged* pump
>>arrangement that allows you to pre-set the boost level at which
>>a second in-tank pump is switched on.  The kit includes a 30amp
>>relay and wire harness, etc   I believe one such kitt is available from ATR
>
>Who and where is ATR??
>

Applied Technologies and Research in Fairplay, SC


>
>Who is Walbro, where are they.??
>

Walbro is a pump manufacturer... they make a lot of the AC/Delco pumps and
the aftermarket replacements.


===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 14:41:46 1999
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Subject: Re: Voltage regulator
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At 01:55 PM 1/2/99 -0500, you wrote:

>
>Hence, the proper answer of PWM.

Exactly!
The pump still sees full voltage, it just has it for a limited time!

===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 14:43:00 1999
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>At 04:55 AM 1/2/99 -0600, you wrote:
>>How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that
>>capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.???
>>
>
>That would be almost as bad as overvoltage...  Under voltage can kill them
>as well.

NO. For a shunt would DC motor, Voltage relates to speed, Current to
torque. Field current and voltage want to be pretty constant for correct
excitation.

Too high a current (cooks the insulation with heat) or a voltage high
enough to break down the insulation are the two failure modes for motor
windings (this applies to all types of motors.)

For series wound DC motors, more complex, but voltage control of speed
still works, and without hurting durability, as long as you do not stall
one (with an overload) with too high a current going through it. You just
cannot expect to get full rated torque at lower applied voltages, cuz you
will not have enough excitation.  Even so, with a liquid cooled motor, like
most fuel pumps are, it is pretty hard to cook one this way.

What you need to watch with a PWM scheme for lowering the voltage to a DC
motor is to have good filtering/smoothing on the output to the motor--the
high frequencies from the PWM switching can be quite hard on the windings
from a mechanical standpoint.

Regards, Greg
>===========================================================
>           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
>     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
>       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
>===========================================================



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Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 14:43:57 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Power ground
In-Reply-To: <3.0.3.32.19990102133213.006b7718@mail.ot.centuryinter.net>
References: <368E5406.5A6E@ibm.net>
 <001901be2bb1$b3ff2080$620365cb@holden>
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At 01:32 PM 1/2/99 -0600, you wrote:
>  I have a 1982 280ZX turbo with the Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection.  I 
>have been told that after modifying timing, etc. the battery ground should 
>be disconnected for a period of time in order to reset the ECM.  I have also 
>been told that both, negative and positive, terminals should be 
>disconnected.  The time interval has been anywhere from 5 min to overnight.  
>Does the power ground,  as described below, explain why both terminals 
>should be disconnected to reset the ECM??  Or am I reading to much into what 
>is being said?  Could someone please tell me the correct way to reset the ECM?

The memory of the computer is stored in RAM that is fed by the car battery
(thru the appropriate regulators etc).
Due to the low current drain of the RAM, you'll need to disconnect one
battery terminal (not both) and probably leave them off for 5 minutes for
all capacitors in the ECM to fully discharge.
Later,
Dave

===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

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Subject: Re: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters
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In a message dated 1/2/99 2:02:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, bearbvd@sni.net
writes:

> 
>  Who is Walbro, where are they.??
>  
They make fuel pumps..Not sure where they are located..
There are often "group purchases" going on on the 
Buick and Syclone/Typhoon lists to buy there products..
The pump I was referring to is an in-tank unit that produces 
255 litres per hour at 38 psi..  GroupPurchase prices are 
generally around US$100 or maybe a little less.. 
Mike V.

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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Sensor Sampling Rates
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Does anyone know the sampling rate of each of the sensors?

specifically '90 L98 (350 V8)


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 15:52:45 1999
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From: Marc Piccioni <mpiccioni@attcanada.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 13:37:13 -0700
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Any know of a source for these pumps?

----------
From: 	ECMnut@aol.com[SMTP:ECMnut@aol.com]
Sent: 	January 2, 1999 9:54 AM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters

In a message dated 1/2/99 11:38:18 AM Eastern Standard Time, bearbvd@sni.net
writes:

> >How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that
>  >capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.???

Some Buick & Syphoon turbo blokes use a *staged* pump
arrangement that allows you to pre-set the boost level at which
a second in-tank pump is switched on.  The kit includes a 30amp
relay and wire harness, etc   I believe one such kitt is available from ATR
Some users of this setup report a 2-5 psi jump in pressure when the 
extra fuel volume, from a second Walbro 308 pump, hits the FP regulator .
 I only wish to own/operate such a thirsty beast in my lifetime.  8~)
    Mike V


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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 15:52:54 1999
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From: Marc Piccioni <mpiccioni@attcanada.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 13:54:24 -0700
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Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

Any contact info for Walbro ?

----------
From: 	David A. Cooley[SMTP:n5xmt@bellsouth.net]
Sent: 	January 2, 1999 12:40 PM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters

At 11:52 AM 1/2/99 -0700, you wrote:

>>Some Buick & Syphoon turbo blokes use a *staged* pump
>>arrangement that allows you to pre-set the boost level at which
>>a second in-tank pump is switched on.  The kit includes a 30amp
>>relay and wire harness, etc   I believe one such kitt is available from ATR
>
>Who and where is ATR??
>

Applied Technologies and Research in Fairplay, SC


>
>Who is Walbro, where are they.??
>

Walbro is a pump manufacturer... they make a lot of the AC/Delco pumps and
the aftermarket replacements.


===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================


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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 15:52:35 1999
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From: Marc Piccioni <mpiccioni@attcanada.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: oops.......... smog patrol ........
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 13:33:42 -0700
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If you are running headers with a low restriction exhaust system a properly 
placed air inlet tube in the vicinity of the collectors will draw in fresh 
air or could be connected to a compressed air tank. Drag racers have been 
using this method for years to evacuate the oil pan ( neg. pressure) to 
help seal the rings. A few year ago Car Craft ran an article on a 455 
Pontiac race motor and getting it to pass the '92 standards IM240 emission 
test. They used this method to introduce 02 upstream of the cat's. You need 
an low differential pressure anti-reversion valve typically used in late 
'70 early '80's AIR systems. Sure wish that my wife didn't through out that 
edition. The article ran Aug. '95 or Aug. '96.

----------
From: 	Greg Hermann[SMTP:bearbvd@sni.net]
Sent: 	January 1, 1999 9:49 PM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: oops... (was Re: Nology)

>Oh yea - one more thing - you don't need to trigger the LCD from a camera
>flash, just
>drive it from a RADAR detector. Pick the signal off the red LED, and throw
>in a 10
>second delay before the LCD is allowed to return to normal.
>
Great thinkin' as to how to turn on any such countermeasures!!

Mebbe a mottled pattern high intensity light, filtered to match a plate
color and aimed at the plate would work better (and cheaper) than an LED
screen. (Plus it would, technically, not be "obscuring" the plate.) Make it
a thirty second delay, and add a light for the rear plate just to be sure!

Nest question--what do we use to trigger (turn on) the same lights in the
presence of one of the roadside smog sniffers (which I think are infra-red
based.)

Regards, Greg





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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 16:02:07 1999
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From: Marc Piccioni <mpiccioni@attcanada.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 14:04:43 -0700
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http://www.walbro.com/product/auto_pro/el_fpump.htm



----------
From: 	ECMnut@aol.com[SMTP:ECMnut@aol.com]
Sent: 	January 2, 1999 12:54 PM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters

In a message dated 1/2/99 2:02:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, bearbvd@sni.net
writes:

> 
>  Who is Walbro, where are they.??
>  
They make fuel pumps..Not sure where they are located..
There are often "group purchases" going on on the 
Buick and Syclone/Typhoon lists to buy there products..
The pump I was referring to is an in-tank unit that produces 
255 litres per hour at 38 psi..  GroupPurchase prices are 
generally around US$100 or maybe a little less.. 
Mike V.


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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 16:05:48 1999
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Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 16:05:43 -0500
From: "Clarence L.Snyder" <clare.snyder.on.ca@ibm.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Voltage regulator
References: <2e357e33.368cdda5@aol.com> <4.1.19990102130103.00951650@mail.lig.bellsouth.net>
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David A. Cooley wrote:
> 
> At 04:55 AM 1/2/99 -0600, you wrote:
> >How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that
> >capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.???
> >
> 
> That would be almost as bad as overvoltage...  Under voltage can kill them
> as well.
> ===========================================================
>            David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
>      Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
>        I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
> ===========================================================
Actually, no. An AC motor is definitely sensitive to low voltage, for
various reasons. A DC motor does NOT suffer this way. A 24 volt motor
will run on 12 volts virtually forever, as long as the load placed on it
does not cause it to overload and overheat, or most dangerous, stall.
Using PWM control is better yet, as it does NOT reduce the peak
voltage/torque at all - it just modulates it. PWM control on a DC type
motor reduces speed without APPRECIABLY reducing torque.This "chopper"
type control, with feedback, could be used to control fuel pressure as
accurately as the current vacuum modulated spring type regulators - if
you can also control "bypass" to avoid vapour problems.

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 16:16:36 1999
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Clarence Wood wrote:
> 
>   I have a 1982 280ZX turbo with the Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection.  I have been told that after modifying timing, etc. the battery ground should be disconnected for a period of time in order to reset the ECM.  I have also been told that both, negative and positive, terminals should be disconnected.  The time interval has been anywhere from 5 min to overnight.  Does the power ground,  as described below, explain why both terminals should be disconnected to reset the ECM??  Or am I reading to m
>
Most (japanese) ECUs have several power supplies - at least one of which
is full time, non switched, to maintain non-volatile memory (it's
volatile with power disconnected) On a Toyota, for instance, there was
both an ECU 1 and an ECU 2 fuse. Removing the right one would reset the
codes on the ECU in about 15 seconds - unless you had the brake pedal
depressed, in which case enough voltage filtered through to maintain the
memory. Removing both terminals will definitely ensure the memory is
dumped, but will also, in all likelihood, loose all settings on your
radio etc.
Remember, CMOS memory is basically a whole slew of capacitors which hold
a voltage to indicate o logic one, and no voltage for logic zero (unless
you are running negative logic, where it is reversed) Virtually vo
"power" or current flow is required - so ANY voltage applied to the
circuit can prevent resetting.

 
> At 12:14 PM 1/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >Geoff Richards wrote:
> >>
> >> Anyone have time to explain the difference between 'ground' and
> >> 'powerground'?
> >> TIA
> >> Geoff
> >I'll give it a crack.
> >In a DC power system on a car, the negative(usually) terminal uses a
> >"chassis ground" for power "return".This is your "power ground". It can
> >have a voltage drop of up to .1 volt across it for accessory and
> >charging loads, and up to one volt for starter loads.
> >For signal circuits, such as sensors, sometimes the .1 volt drop across
> >the frame ground could cause calibration errors, so a "signal ground" is
> >provided. Sometimes the signal can even "float" above chassis ground, as
> >through a protection diode with a, say, .6 volt forward voltage drop.
> >Can't use chassis ground return for such a signal.
> >Hope this helps understand it.
> >
> >

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 16:18:37 1999
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@idirect.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters
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Just a thought..............How about running two parallel in-tank pumps &
socks, at full voltage, all of the time, and installing two bypass
regulators in the return side of the fuel recirculating loop so as to avoid
non-linear pressure response?  This could ensure ample flow, adequate
control, and less electronic gadgetry?

Both Bosch and Walbro have some hefty, in-tank, submersible pumps that in
tandem can feed well beyond 1000 Hp!




-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters


>>In a message dated 1/2/99 11:38:18 AM Eastern Standard Time,
bearbvd@sni.net
>>writes:
>>
>>> >How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that
>>>  >capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.???
>>
>>Some Buick & Syphoon turbo blokes use a *staged* pump
>>arrangement that allows you to pre-set the boost level at which
>>a second in-tank pump is switched on.  The kit includes a 30amp
>>relay and wire harness, etc   I believe one such kitt is available from
ATR
>
>Who and where is ATR??
>
>>Some users of this setup report a 2-5 psi jump in pressure when the
>>extra fuel volume, from a second Walbro 308 pump,
>
>See the comment below, but this jump is simply demonstrating what I am
>talking about below in terms of accuracy of pressure regulation. The port
>in the regulator used is not big enough, plus it needs time to react.
>
>Who is Walbro, where are they.??
>
>Basically, I am looking for sources for good quality, large volume, but
>really don't have to be high pressure, submersible fuel pumps.
>Controlled voltage to a pump is still more elegant than staging, since
>varying voltage to a DC motor varies its speed (and therefore the volume
>output) infinitely.  Hence the desire for variable speed pump drive. Tom is
>RIGHT! Running a big pump at lower voltage/speed most of the time will do
>the job, and increase pump life IMPRESSIVELY!
>If one wants to get seriously complicated, it is very feasible to vary the
>speed of one pump, and then stage in a second, constant speed pump for big
>loads. (The first, variable speed, pump slows back down when the second
>pump first comes on, then speeds back up as load increases further.)
>
> hits the FP regulator .
>
>It is way easier (and much more efficient and accurate) to regulate
>pressure precisely if flow through the pressure regulator is fairly
>constant.
>
>> I only wish to own/operate such a thirsty beast in my lifetime.  8~)
>
>The output would certainly be nice, but maybe with about 10% less thirst
>would be even nicer!! :-)
>
>Regards, Greg
>>    Mike V
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 16:26:20 1999
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Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 15:20:15 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Clarence Wood <clarencewood@centuryinter.net>
Subject: Re: Voltage regulator
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 <368DFB2F.2668343E@mtco.com>
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  In case you want to salvage a unit off of a junker:  1982 Nissan Turbo units have a Fuel Pump Control Modulator that "monitors engine conditions (engine rpm, cylinder head temp, injector operating pulse width, etc.) and controls the voltage supplied to the fuel pump."  The pumps draws battery voltage when: engine cranking, above 3,200 rpm, injector pulse width above 3.5 m sec, cylinder head temp of 100 deg C (212 deg F), battery voltage below 9.8V:  other than those conditions it draws 9.8V.  The unit can be found just above the ECCS control unit on drivers side, inside car. 

At 07:43 PM 12/31/98 +0200, you wrote:
>Tom Sharpe wrote:
>> 
>> How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that
>> capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.???
>> 
>> Regards  Tom
>> 
>Already been done by Paxton.
>"The Brain Pump Computer automatically reduces your high output fuel
>pump's flow during street operation for improved efficiency. With the
>flip of a switch, it creates a 2.4 voltage drop, reducing fuel flow and
>allowing the pump to run cooler during street operation enhancing its
>longlevity. Flip the switch back, and the pump returns to its normal
>high volume flow."
>Could be trigered by TPS or MAP.
>Summit Racing part nu. pax-8002048 $119.95
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 17:37:37 1999
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I have a 92 Camaro that had a v-6 in it, I recently purchased a 92 Corvette
LT-1 motor with both computers (the ECM, and the CCM ). My big problem is
figuring out how to wire the new motor. I know of a few aftermarket companies
that sell wiring harnesses, but they are pretty expensive and I don't know if
I really need them because I have the stock Corvette harness. I am also
curious if I need to disable the VATS or can I wire it up to the module
currently in my 92 Camaro? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 17:50:46 1999
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From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters
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I'll check and see

At 01:54 PM 1/2/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Any contact info for Walbro ?
>
>----------
>From: 	David A. Cooley[SMTP:n5xmt@bellsouth.net]
>Sent: 	January 2, 1999 12:40 PM
>To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject: 	Re: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters
>
>At 11:52 AM 1/2/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>>>Some Buick & Syphoon turbo blokes use a *staged* pump
>>>arrangement that allows you to pre-set the boost level at which
>>>a second in-tank pump is switched on.  The kit includes a 30amp
>>>relay and wire harness, etc   I believe one such kitt is available from ATR
>>
>>Who and where is ATR??
>>
>
>Applied Technologies and Research in Fairplay, SC
>
>
>>
>>Who is Walbro, where are they.??
>>
>
>Walbro is a pump manufacturer... they make a lot of the AC/Delco pumps and
>the aftermarket replacements.
>
>
>===========================================================
>           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
>     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
>       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
>===========================================================
>
>
>
>

===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 17:58:51 1999
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ECMnut@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Hi Steve,
> sorry to bother you without the answer you seek...
> Is this injector flowbench article online ???
> I'd love to see it..
> Thanks,
> Mike V
> Chardon, Ohio

Yes, the flowbench article is on the diy_efi WWW page, under the members
and projects link.  It's 20 jpeg images that were scanned from the
magazine.  If anyone can OCR those to text files please step forward.

--steve

--
Steve Ravet
sravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, INC
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 18:25:37 1999
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From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread
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>Go for the stage II. You want to be able to accelerate from 100 to 150 like a
>CanAm car.  Most transmissions are limited by torque in low gear (&
second) on

Naaaah, I won't be pounding on it that much, since the vehicle weight is
not enough to support the power level, unless there is enough downforce.  I
won't be at that point on the street hopefully, if I am, something is
seriously wrong (or my radar detector is working <G>).  Seriously, I am
gravely concerned about the power/weight ratio, and might add extra weight
in the form of making the sprung weight (i.e. roll cage) much stronger,
thicker, better triangulated.

>racer) will hook up), it will last for ever. if you are worried, just use a
>marginal clutch and replace it every year or so. (Or just keep your foot
out of
>it in low).

I don't mind replacing clutches, if that saves the transmission.

>about the Porsche more than the Audi as the Porsche is designed for high
RPM HP
>and the Audi more for street torque. What is the Torque output of the

Not sure what the specs of either are as rated from the Factory.  Kennedy
Engineering, who makes various adaptors for the Porsche & VW Bug transaxles
to other engines (chevy 350 for example) rate the Porsche unit (G50-50) to
700 HP.  I for one think that's in 5th gear, at 200 MPH.  I can't see 1st
gear taking that.  Like you said, the Porsche's make their power at the
mid/top ends, not at 1500 RPM for the most part.

The Audi 016 transaxle which is the one I have (or is it 013, I forget), is
rated to 400 HP, but again, its at the higher RPMs.  A friend of mine has a
5 cyl turbo motor that was dyno'd at 450 HP (at the flywheel), and has
shredded 1st gear when popping the clutch at higher RPMs.  Of course, this
car is not designed for what he's using it for (german made 4-door sleeper)

>Porsche?)  Look at the diameter of the output shafts (pinion shafts) and
>bearings, pick the larger.

Good advice, thank you :)

>One more thing about Turbo motors.  If your motor sounds funny and you
pull the
>pan off an there are a dozen pieces of piston skirt laying in the bottom
of the
>pan, it's detonation. Been there, done that, won that T-shirt.

Yes, been there done that.  However I didn't get a T-Shirt Tom, who gave
you yours? <grin>


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
1973 Lincoln Continental (460cid)
1975 Dodge D200 3/4 ton Club Cab
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread
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>Do you have any pictures of your monster engine, I would love to hear more 
>details.Very impressing acomplishment .

I have them, unfortunately they are on a laptop that I dropped. The drive
is okay, I just need to transplant it into something that works, since the
display/systemboard is garbage :)

The homemade manifold does look pretty cool.  Picture dinosour rib cage
with injectors all over it :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
1973 Lincoln Continental (460cid)
1975 Dodge D200 3/4 ton Club Cab
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 18:25:37 1999
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From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread
Cc: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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>Have you ever considered going with an AWD setup?  Perhaps the Audi setup
>would work.  They split the torque between the front and rear wheels
>using a Zexel Torsen type differential.  That way, all four wheels will
>grab, but the front will not tend to spin out and rob power from the rear
>when the front end starts to get light.

Nope, can't say that I have. I spent a lot of time trying to "fangle" or
fabricate such a system, and unless I mounted the engine behind the rear
axle, aka VW Bug, I didn't see a way of doing it with OEM/Junkyard parts.

I did however come up with two solutions - one require extensive
fabrication, one not.

The first would be to go rear-engine, and use a 180 degree rotated subaru
manual tranny (AWD), and go from there.

The second would be to tap the ring gear in a FWD Eldorado transmission
(early 80's), also mounted upside down.  Neither appealed to me out of
effort, weight, and putting the engine behind the rear axle. a 50/50 weight
distribution really excites me :)

>What does Lambroghini use for its Diablo?  Could one of those transfer
>cases be obtained for less than a mint?  Does Porsche have any AWD
>models?

Not sure about the Lambo, but I believe Porsche does have a AWD vehicle,
but if I do remember correctly, its rear-mounted engine wise.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
1973 Lincoln Continental (460cid)
1975 Dodge D200 3/4 ton Club Cab
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

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Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 18:35:32 EST
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Hi Folks,
        I have used an RPM activated switch from Mallory(I am sure MSD's would
work too) to turn on the Boost a Pump from Kenne Bell or Whipple.....You can
insert a resistor (has built in 2 way weatherpack)to control how much you want
the boost a pump to increase the voltage...no resistor = 21.5 volts  2k
resistor = 17 volts.....also can use the rpm switch activated from the MAF
meter instead so at a certain airflow the pump is squeezed on, then use
another to shut a solenoid in the return line if even more fuel is required at
a higher MAF.....just some thoughts....
-Carl Summers

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 18:44:03 1999
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>At 01:55 PM 1/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>>
>>Hence, the proper answer of PWM.
>
>Exactly!
>The pump still sees full voltage, it just has it for a limited time!

C'mon--the PWM switch LOWERS the AVERAGE voltage by switching teh FULL
voltage on and off rapidly. As I said, you want good smoothing of the
output, cuz the rapid pulsing IS what will dissassemble the windings!

Regards, Greg
>
>===========================================================
>           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
>     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
>       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
>===========================================================



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>David A. Cooley wrote:
>>
>> At 04:55 AM 1/2/99 -0600, you wrote:
>> >How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that
>> >capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.???
>> >
>>
>> That would be almost as bad as overvoltage...  Under voltage can kill them
>> as well.
>> ===========================================================
>>            David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
>>      Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
>>        I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
>> ===========================================================
>Actually, no. An AC motor is definitely sensitive to low voltage, for
>various reasons.

An AC motor will make full torque below its rated speed if the
voltage/frequency ratio given to it is the same as at its rated speed. At
any given frequency and speed, the voltage which an AC motor needs to
produce a given fraction of its rated torque is the same proportion of its
rated voltage as the torque load is of the motor's rated torque. Feeding
the motor more than the required voltage when it is loaded to less than its
rated torque (as is commonly done) results in an efficiency loss due to an
increase in the IR loss in the windings.

A DC motor does NOT suffer this way. A 24 volt motor
>will run on 12 volts virtually forever, as long as the load placed on it
>does not cause it to overload and overheat, or most dangerous, stall.

The current/load/speed/torque characteristics for a shunt wound DC motor
were outlined in an earlier post.

A series wound DC motor's characteristic is a hyperbolic curve: very high
torque at low speed, very low torque at very high speed. As long as your
particular torque/speed requirement is not above this curve, it will do the
job. If you overload it with too much torque, it will slow down, or even
stall, trying to meet the load. Stalling IS NOT detrimental to a series
wound motor so long as it has enough cooling to dissipate the heat produced
by the IR loss in its windings by the applied current (which, of course, is
a function of the applied voltage). Said cooling can be produced by any
combination of the following, even if the motor is stalled: adequate frame
size, submersion in a liquid, or a separately driven cooling fan.
Naturally, a cooling fan driven by the motor shaft will not give any
cooling if the motor is stalled.

Consider the following: diesel-electric railroad locomotives use DC
traction motors. they have switchable windings, but in starting to move a
train from rest, the traction motors are put in a series wound
configuration. And they are most certainly asked to produce a VERY high
torque while stalled, and then while running at a VERY low speed!! (At
higher speeds, locomotive motors are switched through various combinations
of series/shunt and into full shunt at high speeds.)

The moral of this story is that ADEQUATE HEAT DISSIPATION of IR losses in
the windings and eddy current losses in the core is the key to making any
electric motor live a long, happy life. (As long as you do not act like a
racer, and spin it fast enough to make its windings fly apart!!)  8-)

>Using PWM control is better yet, as it does NOT reduce the peak
>voltage/torque at all - it just modulates it. PWM control on a DC type
>motor reduces speed without APPRECIABLY reducing torque.

To claim that there is not enough inductance in the motor windings to
smooth out the highs and lows of the PWM voltage notches is living in
dreamland or a sign of having ingested too much egg-nog!!

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 18:45:02 1999
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Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 18:44:25 EST
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In a message dated 1/2/99 2:47:23 PM Pacific Standard Time, ChvyRs92@aol.com
writes:

<< Subj:	 92 Corvette LT-1
 Date:	1/2/99 2:47:23 PM Pacific Standard Time
 From:	ChvyRs92@aol.com
 Sender:	owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 Reply-to:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 To:	DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 
 I have a 92 Camaro that had a v-6 in it, I recently purchased a 92 Corvette
 LT-1 motor with both computers (the ECM, and the CCM ). My big problem is
 figuring out how to wire the new motor. I know of a few aftermarket companies
 that sell wiring harnesses, but they are pretty expensive and I don't know if
 I really need them because I have the stock Corvette harness. I am also
 curious if I need to disable the VATS or can I wire it up to the module
 currently in my 92 Camaro? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
Hello,
     In my opinion I think it would be best to get the GM service manuals for
both vehicles so you have an accurate schematic for both wiring
harness'....then start cutting.......If you have a prom reader/burner  I'm
sure one of us on this list could give you the address info to eliminate your
VATS....otherwise you might want to spend a couple of bucks and send it to one
of us willing to do some custom work on the chip for you.....Hypertech,JET and
others can do this also..........hth's
-Carl Summers

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In a message dated 1/2/99 3:59:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mpiccioni@attcanada.net writes:

> Any know of a source for these pumps?
>  
Ron Gregory, who sometimes lurks this list,
runs group purchase activities for the Syclone/Typhoon list.
The 255 lph pump was under $100 US (with install kit) when I 
bought one through him in May.  His email is 
           rgregory@chrysalis.org
255 lph is supposed to be enough for 700hp.
Never been there..Works great with my 350hp V6.. 
HTH
Mike V

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 18:48:01 1999
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From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Power ground
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On Sat, 2 Jan 1999, Clarence L.Snyder wrote:

> > Anyone have time to explain the difference between 'ground' and
> > 'powerground'?
> > TIA
> > Geoff
> I'll give it a crack.
> In a DC power system on a car, the negative(usually) terminal uses a
> "chassis ground" for power "return".This is your "power ground". It can
> have a voltage drop of up to .1 volt across it for accessory and
> charging loads, and up to one volt for starter loads.
> For signal circuits, such as sensors, sometimes the .1 volt drop across
> the frame ground could cause calibration errors, so a "signal ground" is
> provided. Sometimes the signal can even "float" above chassis ground, as
> through a protection diode with a, say, .6 volt forward voltage drop.
> Can't use chassis ground return for such a signal.
> Hope this helps understand it.
> 

So in other words, high amperage and low amperage devices should have
seperate ground paths to the battery??


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Subject: Re: 92 Corvette LT-1
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On Sat, 2 Jan 1999 EFISYSTEMS@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 1/2/99 2:47:23 PM Pacific Standard Time, ChvyRs92@aol.com
> writes:
> 
> Hello,
>      In my opinion I think it would be best to get the GM service manuals for
> both vehicles so you have an accurate schematic for both wiring
> harness'....then start cutting.......If you have a prom reader/burner  I'm
> sure one of us on this list could give you the address info to eliminate your
> VATS....otherwise you might want to spend a couple of bucks and send it to one
> of us willing to do some custom work on the chip for you.....Hypertech,JET and
> others can do this also..........hth's
> -Carl Summers
> 

I am working on reverse engineering the addresses for a 93 Z28 LT1 A4
which I believe uses the same computer and probably almost the same
prom for both 92/93.  If you have a prom burner you might send me a
copy and I will see how different it is.  

Mine is an A4 so if yours came from a non-A4 there might be some
differences there.

			Roger


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 18:55:51 1999
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Pete Fenske can tell you about the VATS.  I faced a similar wiring
problem when I put a V8 in my S-10 Blazer (replaced the 2.8 which is
probably exactly what you did also).  Anyway, if you have the ECM and
engine harness then you are 90% there.  The only things that pass
through the bulkhead connector are sensors that drive dash gauges, A/C
controls, wiper controls, fused and unfused power and ground, fuel pump
power, and some other things like that.  If you look at the pinout of
the bulkhead connectors for both the engine and the car, you'll see that
they are mostly the same wires.  You just need to connect them
appropriately.  Here's what I did:

I wanted to keep the old engine intact as much as possible, so I went to
a junkyard and bought a bulkhead connector that matched the one in my
truck.  If you go buy one get one that is close to your model including
year and options.  That way you'll get all the right wires in all the
right colors.  Cut the wires as long as possible.  Or you can cut up
your bulkhead connector if you don't care about it.

Cut off the LT1 bulkhead connector, you won't be using it.  Cut it also
so that the wires are as long as possible.  Wire by wire, connect
matching wires from the LT1 bulkhead to the Camaro bulkhead.  Having the
schematics for both helps trememdously.  At first, twist and tape them,
using bright green or red tape.  Then start the car to see if it runs
OK.  If it seems OK, use good crimp on connectors to permanently connect
the wires, and solder them after crimping.  The bright tape helps
locating the connections.

Put the wires back into the black plastic loom that they were in, and
cut the wires to a sensible length so they run in a nice bundle.  I know
this isn't very specific, but every swap like this is unique.  write me
back if you have more questions.

--steve

ChvyRs92@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I have a 92 Camaro that had a v-6 in it, I recently purchased a 92 Corvette
> LT-1 motor with both computers (the ECM, and the CCM ). My big problem is
> figuring out how to wire the new motor. I know of a few aftermarket companies
> that sell wiring harnesses, but they are pretty expensive and I don't know if
> I really need them because I have the stock Corvette harness. I am also
> curious if I need to disable the VATS or can I wire it up to the module
> currently in my 92 Camaro? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

--
Steve Ravet
sravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, INC
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 19:04:39 1999
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  An engine swap can be a rewiring career. I bought a book from Steve Smith
Autosports that impresses me. It is written by a couple of very experienced
guys who try to educate you on how to do --what you are doing , with
installing an injected motor into your Camero.
  My book is out on loan. Steve is in Orange or Santa Ana California.

   Jerry 

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 19:16:28 1999
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In a message dated 99-01-02 18:49:42 EST, bearbvd@sni.net writes:

>The current/load/speed/torque characteristics for a shunt wound DC motor
>were outlined in an earlier post.
>
>A series wound DC motor's characteristic is a hyperbolic curve: very high
>torque at low speed, very low torque at very high speed. 

It's good to know shunt/ series motor theory.  Though it's full effect is lost
on the original app discussed ( running a OEM fuel pump at a < or > voltage)
Most if not all OEM intank or external pumps are permanent magnet style.  The
Holley Blue or Red pump may have field coils as well as some other aftermarket
pumps.

As for running a pump at reduced voltage.  The ~85 Merkur XR4Ti 2.3 Turbo (
same engine as a SVO Mustang) uses a resistor wire simillar to a ignition
resistor.  The ~ 86 Reanult Alliance ( ala American Motors) used a regular
ingition ballast resistor in series with the pump.   

I seem to remember some make of car using a resistor to reduce pump noise as
low throttle openings. Then bypassing the resistor near WOT to insure adequate
fuel flow.

I think late model Chryslers use a variable (most likely PWM ) fuel pump on
their single line EFI systems.  They have eliminated the return line on some
engines.

Harold

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 19:17:54 1999
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Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread
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References: <19981231.015309.4798.6.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
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At 06:25 PM 1/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>Have you ever considered going with an AWD setup?  Perhaps the Audi setup
>>would work.  They split the torque between the front and rear wheels
>>using a Zexel Torsen type differential.  That way, all four wheels will
>>grab, but the front will not tend to spin out and rob power from the rear
>>when the front end starts to get light.
>
>Nope, can't say that I have. I spent a lot of time trying to "fangle" or
>fabricate such a system, and unless I mounted the engine behind the rear
>axle, aka VW Bug, I didn't see a way of doing it with OEM/Junkyard parts.
>
>I did however come up with two solutions - one require extensive
>fabrication, one not.
>
>The first would be to go rear-engine, and use a 180 degree rotated subaru
>manual tranny (AWD), and go from there.
>

Not sure if the Porsche 930 is AWD, but it's transaxle can handle a VERY
modified Chevy 350...
Guy in Los Angeles had a Porsche 911 with an honest 450 HP 350 V8 and a 930
transaxle... Went for a ride once that scared even me!

===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 19:29:27 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: fuel pumps
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All my info on burning out fuel pumps came from listening to the guys that
race GN's...  Guess I should have listened to my electronics theory instead!
There is something to be said for running a larger guage wire from the
battery to a relay and the relay to the pump, switching the relay from the
old pump supply wire... The GN list did a test a while back... Voltage at
the pump while running (13.6V at the battery) was only 11 volts or so with
the factory wiring... adding the "hot wire" as they called it bumped
voltage to 13.2 or so and the volume of the pump increased considerably.
The GN web page has some charts one of the guys made relating voltage to
fuel volume on several different pumps.
http://www.gnttype.org/gnttype/www 
and look in Tech Info
Later,
Dave


===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 19:36:58 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 19:40:12 -0500
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If the original poster writes me, I'll send a 555 circuit for trial.
Include our address in text, please.
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 19:40:13 1999
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  This bit of information MAY be of interest to thoes of us who want to
homebrew a DC motor control by reducing its voltage input.
  Put forward biased diodes in series with the motor to lower its received
voltage. Each diode will lower the  voltage to the motor by about 3/4 volts. 
  The locked shaft (or stall) torque is greatly improved when diodes are used
in place of resistors. 
  
    Jerry

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 19:40:38 1999
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References: <2e357e33.368cdda5@aol.com> <4.1.19990102130103.00951650@mail.lig.bellsouth.net> <368E8A27.5175@ibm.net>
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Clarence L.Snyder wrote:
> 
> David A. Cooley wrote:
> >
> > At 04:55 AM 1/2/99 -0600, you wrote:
> > >How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that
> > >capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.???
> > >
> >
> > That would be almost as bad as overvoltage...  Under voltage can kill them
> > as well.
> > ===========================================================
> >            David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
> >      Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
> >        I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
> > ===========================================================
> Actually, no. An AC motor is definitely sensitive to low voltage, for
> various reasons. A DC motor does NOT suffer this way. A 24 volt motor
> will run on 12 volts virtually forever, as long as the load placed on it
> does not cause it to overload and overheat, or most dangerous, stall.
> Using PWM control is better yet, as it does NOT reduce the peak
> voltage/torque at all - it just modulates it. PWM control on a DC type
> motor reduces speed without APPRECIABLY reducing torque.This "chopper"
> type control, with feedback, could be used to control fuel pressure as
> accurately as the current vacuum modulated spring type regulators - if
> you can also control "bypass" to avoid vapour problems.

The Carrol supecharging company has a unit capable of this.Its called a
Superpumper.They say " Electronicaly regulates fuel pump pressure in
response to manifold pressure. Replaces FMU on supercharged Mustangs,
Camaros and other vehicles for more power. Adjust your fuel curve from
inside the cockpit. Can actually increse the fuel pump's output by 20%
more."
Sounds interesting for forced induction applications but has the same
rerstrictions as FMU(rising rate fuel pressure regulators-usually 6:1
ratio of fuel press. increse over manifold press. increase when manifold
press. positive.). Boost limit is around 10 psi. At least I wouldnt like
driving injectors at over 90psi for any length of time.
For anyone interested their phone is +12018351660.


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On Sat, 02 Jan 1999 18:25:33 -0500 Frederic Breitwieser
<frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com> writes:
>>Have you ever considered going with an AWD setup?  Perhaps the Audi
setup
>>would work.  They split the torque between the front and rear wheels
>>using a Zexel Torsen type differential.  That way, all four wheels will
>>grab, but the front will not tend to spin out and rob power from the
rear
>>when the front end starts to get light.
>
>Nope, can't say that I have. I spent a lot of time trying to "fangle" or
>fabricate such a system, and unless I mounted the engine behind the rear
>axle, aka VW Bug, I didn't see a way of doing it with OEM/Junkyard
parts.
>
>I did however come up with two solutions - one require extensive
>fabrication, one not.
>
>The first would be to go rear-engine, and use a 180 degree rotated
subaru
>manual tranny (AWD), and go from there.
>
>The second would be to tap the ring gear in a FWD Eldorado transmission
>(early 80's), also mounted upside down.  Neither appealed to me out of
>effort, weight, and putting the engine behind the rear axle. a 50/50
weight
>distribution really excites me :)
>
>>What does Lambroghini use for its Diablo?  Could one of those transfer
>>cases be obtained for less than a mint?  Does Porsche have any AWD
>>models?
>
>Not sure about the Lambo, but I believe Porsche does have a AWD vehicle,
>but if I do remember correctly, its rear-mounted engine wise.
>
>
>Frederic Breitwieser
>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>
>Homebrew Automotive Website:
>http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
>
>1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>1989 HMMWV
>1973 Lincoln Continental (460cid)
>1975 Dodge D200 3/4 ton Club Cab
>2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

Without knowing the details of your vehicle, I can't be sure what would
fit.  I was thinking along the lines of a standard front
engine/tranny/t-case assembly mounted in the middle of the vehicle
backwards.  This would leave you with the task of dealing with an offset
rear driveshaft, but that won't cause much trouble if you going with
four-wheel independant suspension.

Ray Drouillard

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 20:21:13 1999
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From: "Bill the arcstarter" <arcstarter@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Voltage regulator
Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 17:20:40 PST
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It was written:

>>Using PWM control is better yet, as it does NOT reduce the peak
>>voltage/torque at all - it just modulates it. PWM control on a DC 
>>type motor reduces speed without APPRECIABLY reducing torque.
>
>To claim that there is not enough inductance in the motor windings to
>smooth out the highs and lows of the PWM voltage notches is living in
>dreamland or a sign of having ingested too much egg-nog!!

Actually you can (and will) instantaneously change the voltage across an 
inductor (motor winding) w/o an instantaneous change in the current.  
Nothing in physics says otherwise.

I suppose the question is one of *what* damages the motor - rapid force 
oscillations (caused by rapid changes in current - something which is 
limited/prevented by the self-inductance of the windings) or some form 
of (?) dielectric breakdown across the windings caused by rapid voltage 
fluctuations... ?

The big boys do use specially insulated magnet wire on the larger (1-10 
hp) motors designed specifically for use with chopper drives.  I'm not 
sure if a smaller motor (like a fuel pump) would care one way or the 
other.

If you build such a chopper - be sure to include a flyback or snubber 
circuit to prevent your fet/transistor from going POOF due to the 
inductive kickback. :-)

-Bill
(building a 10000 watt phase controlled SCR driver for my stick welder)
Wanna know how to turn OFF an SCR?  See my page:
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/6160/hvtank/hvtank.html


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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 20:22:08 1999
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From: Dodge1979@webtv.net (Roger Anderson)
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 19:22:05 -0600 (CST)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: corvairs?????
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Anbody know of someone who might have adapted an efi system for a
corvair engine?
rog

bucks, we just ran out of time...


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 20:27:50 1999
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Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 20:27:48 -0500
From: "Clarence L.Snyder" <clare.snyder.on.ca@ibm.net>
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Greg Hermann wrote:
> 
> >At 01:55 PM 1/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>Hence, the proper answer of PWM.
> >
> >Exactly!
> >The pump still sees full voltage, it just has it for a limited time!
> 
> C'mon--the PWM switch LOWERS the AVERAGE voltage by switching teh FULL
> voltage on and off rapidly. As I said, you want good smoothing of the
> output, cuz the rapid pulsing IS what will dissassemble the windings!
> 
> Regards, Greg
> >
> >===========================================================
> >           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
> >     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
> >       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
> >===========================================================
DC motors designed for PWM control are of the "universal" variety, with
laminated cores - capable of running on AC as well as DC - or permanent
magnet field with laminated armatures. Yes, the inductance DOES tend to
smooth out the peaks - but try running two identical motors at the same
reduced "average" voltage - one with a pwm and one with a resistor. You
know what you will find. Right, the PWM controlled motor will have
significantly more torque, assuming the pwm controller is properly built
and designed. Just try out an electronic controlled variable speed drill
vs a resistance controlled variable speed drill.

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 20:29:18 1999
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Jim Davies wrote:
> 
> On Sat, 2 Jan 1999, Clarence L.Snyder wrote:
> 
> > > Anyone have time to explain the difference between 'ground' and
> > > 'powerground'?
> > > TIA
> > > Geoff
> > I'll give it a crack.
> > In a DC power system on a car, the negative(usually) terminal uses a
> > "chassis ground" for power "return".This is your "power ground". It can
> > have a voltage drop of up to .1 volt across it for accessory and
> > charging loads, and up to one volt for starter loads.
> > For signal circuits, such as sensors, sometimes the .1 volt drop across
> > the frame ground could cause calibration errors, so a "signal ground" is
> > provided. Sometimes the signal can even "float" above chassis ground, as
> > through a protection diode with a, say, .6 volt forward voltage drop.
> > Can't use chassis ground return for such a signal.
> > Hope this helps understand it.
> >
> 
> So in other words, high amperage and low amperage devices should have
> seperate ground paths to the battery??
Not necessarily:
but devices that are VOLTAGE SENSITIVE, particularly at low voltages,
should have their own ground circuit.

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-----Original Message-----
From: Bill the arcstarter <arcstarter@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Voltage regulator

Looks like the beginning for a good ignition set-up, cordin to Doc.
Bruce


snip
>
>-Bill
>(building a 10000 watt phase controlled SCR driver for my stick welder)
>Wanna know how to turn OFF an SCR?  See my page:
>http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/6160/hvtank/hvtank.html
>
>



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 20:57:44 1999
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Jerry,
Thanks. Let me know the name of the book when you find out. So you are from
Ca. too?
Jeff

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 21:36:25 1999
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From: "Bill the arcstarter" <arcstarter@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu, frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com
Subject: Re: EFI on a Dodge 318
Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 18:35:52 PST
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Frederic Breitwieser wrote:

>>Sounds like an A-833 trans.  Ever had one apart?  Mine needs 
>>synchros... 
>
>Nope, just had the top cover off and peered inside, and can visually 
>see the bent forks.  its that bad.  but, it shifts, and hopefully its
>repairable without too much effort.  If the forks/syncro's are not
>available, which they should be considering how many years this 
>tranny was available, I might go syncro-less.  Though it is a truck, 
>not a race car.

Any chance you just need forks?  The forks can be replaced w/o pulling 
the trans apart!

>I've found that to be with Chryslers in general.  I've found ZERO 
>dodge trucks in the five or six junkyards that I frequent - and on a 
>trip to Raleigh in the beginning of the month I found a few and 
>scavanaged parts I needed - like the brake cables for the parking 
>brake.

Yea, same here.  I got my bellhousing from Binghamton, NY and I live in 
Ohio.  The yards around here had ZERO and the best they could do was get 
one via locator for $250!  Robbery!  I ended up paying $60 for the one 
from NY.  I consider myself lucky at that price.

Apparently there are yards in the New England area with loads of 
moparts...

-Bill

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 21:42:12 1999
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From: "Bill the arcstarter" <arcstarter@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu, pfenske@bcit.bc.ca
Subject: Re: EFI on a Dodge 318
Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 18:41:39 PST
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Peter Fenske wrote:

>Trannys cont.
>
>Had a 833 apart when young. Did  manage to get it back together
>
>The trick was to fab a dummy shaft so to fit the counter shaft into 
>the case. The dummy shaft needs to be a few thou less in dia
>so it will slip out the back whilst you put in the shaft from the 
>front.

Yea, thats what the guys down at the shop suggested.  One guy had a 
piece of (!) broomhandle which he claimed was workable in a bind...

>Mucho better than trying to use grease to put in the counter
>shaft bearings. The darn things always fall out

One guy used floorwax to retain the needles.  To each his own.

>Oh yes Mopar Perf has a special pilot bushing just for auto.
>No machining needed.

Oh?  I was told the auto-only motors had no hole at all - ie - the pilot 
journal on the input shaft would hit the end of the crank where the hole 
should be.

But I could be wrong on this.  I haven't seen an auto-only crank.  The 
one I pulled off of an auto had the proper pilot hole.  A bit of 
de-rusting, a new pilot bushing and all was well.

-Bill

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 22:10:09 1999
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  Jeff Jeff JEFF
  The Chev - late model engine - swapping book is titled  Chevrolet TPI & TBI
Engine Swapping . I bought mine from Steve Smith at hit office in the city of
Orange.
  I just recently loaned mine to a young friend who is thinking of swapping.
  I live in Los Alamitos Ca ( near Long Beach ) . My travels take me to many
parts of LA.
If you have any interest (and patience) , I may drop it off for youto see
within a month , if you are in the L A area.

    Jerry

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 22:34:14 1999
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Voltage regulator
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>
>It's good to know shunt/ series motor theory.  Though it's full effect is lost
>on the original app discussed ( running a OEM fuel pump at a < or > voltage)
>Most if not all OEM intank or external pumps are permanent magnet style.  The
>Holley Blue or Red pump may have field coils as well as some other aftermarket
>pumps.
>
>As for running a pump at reduced voltage.  The ~85 Merkur XR4Ti 2.3 Turbo (
>same engine as a SVO Mustang) uses a resistor wire simillar to a ignition
>resistor.  The ~ 86 Reanult Alliance ( ala American Motors) used a regular
>ingition ballast resistor in series with the pump.
>
>I seem to remember some make of car using a resistor to reduce pump noise as
>low throttle openings. Then bypassing the resistor near WOT to insure adequate
>fuel flow.
>
>I think late model Chryslers use a variable (most likely PWM ) fuel pump on
>their single line EFI systems.  They have eliminated the return line on some
>engines.
>

Ahem--well, a motor with a PM field has a rather constant level of
excitation, so it seems pretty safe to say that it would act pretty much
like a shunt wound motor--speed will vary with voltage, and torque will
vary with current. Your examples prove the point that low voltage will not
hurt them. Setting fuel pressure too high will, because it would require
enough torque (current) to cause meltdown.

Regards, Greg

>Harold



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 22:54:59 1999
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>Greg Hermann wrote:
>>
>> >At 01:55 PM 1/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>> >
>> >>
>> >>Hence, the proper answer of PWM.
>> >
>> >Exactly!
>> >The pump still sees full voltage, it just has it for a limited time!
>>
>> C'mon--the PWM switch LOWERS the AVERAGE voltage by switching teh FULL
>> voltage on and off rapidly. As I said, you want good smoothing of the
>> output, cuz the rapid pulsing IS what will dissassemble the windings!
>>
>> Regards, Greg
>> >
>> >===========================================================
>> >           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
>> >     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
>> >       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
>> >===========================================================
>DC motors designed for PWM control are of the "universal" variety, with
>laminated cores - capable of running on AC as well as DC - or permanent
>magnet field with laminated armatures. Yes, the inductance DOES tend to
>smooth out the peaks - but try running two identical motors at the same
>reduced "average" voltage - one with a pwm and one with a resistor. You
>know what you will find. Right, the PWM controlled motor will have
>significantly more torque, assuming the pwm controller is properly built
>and designed. Just try out an electronic controlled variable speed drill
>vs a resistance controlled variable speed drill.

OK--voltage relates to speed--current relates to torque. same as a shunt
wound DC motor. The PWM reduces the (average) voltage, but does not limit
the (average) current the way a resistor does. The picture is now coming
into focus a bit clearer! I still say a smoothing filter on the motor lead
side of the PWM switching device is very good for the motor. Likewise, a
filter upstream of the PWM switching device is good for everything else in
the neighborhood. (Like digital devices of one sort or another!) :-)

A couple of loops of power and motor, and even control leads around
(separate) ferrite cores is also not a bad idea, if you want to get serious
about reducing the noise.

Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 23:24:34 1999
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From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread
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>Without knowing the details of your vehicle, I can't be sure what would
>fit.  I was thinking along the lines of a standard front

Its a mid-engined chassis from scratch engine behind drivers, in front of
axle, using the FWD audi transaxle (for now). THe porsche G50-50 unit is
identical in regards to axle height/distance from bellhousing, though
weights 4 lbs more.

>rear driveshaft, but that won't cause much trouble if you going with
>four-wheel independant suspension.

Vette IRS in the front, and custom in the back, IRS 4-link, much like the
original GT-40 hopefully with better math associated with it :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
1973 Lincoln Continental (460cid)
1975 Dodge D200 3/4 ton Club Cab
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 23:29:37 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: EFI on a Dodge 318
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>Any chance you just need forks?  The forks can be replaced w/o pulling 
>the trans apart!

Not sure, I haven't ripped it out yet.  Hoping that's the case.

>Yea, same here.  I got my bellhousing from Binghamton, NY and I live in 
>Ohio.  The yards around here had ZERO and the best they could do was get 

Really?  I haven't found dodge anything up here.  THough I now have a
bellhousing that my transmission supposively will fit into.  We'll find out
for sure when the engine is yanked out.

I will be EFI-ing this engine, and probably going one large turbo, or two
small turbos.  I've learned a lot from my radical V6 experimentation, and
will be duplicating some of the lessons learned on this 383 B block.  Just
had it overbored .030, linebored, and its in great, great shape.

>Apparently there are yards in the New England area with loads of 
>moparts...

Really?  I haven't found one yet.  Everyone here in CT squish dodges faster
than they can get them in !!!!!


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
1973 Lincoln Continental (460cid)
1975 Dodge D200 3/4 ton Club Cab
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 23:29:39 1999
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        pfenske@bcit.bc.ca
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: EFI on a Dodge 318
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>Oh?  I was told the auto-only motors had no hole at all - ie - the pilot 
>journal on the input shaft would hit the end of the crank where the hole 
>should be.

This is true, nothing a 3/4 bit on a milling machine can't fix :)  Just
that centering it will be a challenge.  I haven't found out how deep it
needs to be, but maybe I can measure this off the length of the input shaft
once I get the tranny out.  I'd really like to shove in a 6-speed or a
5-speed.  4000 RPM at 70 MPH is a bit much.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
1973 Lincoln Continental (460cid)
1975 Dodge D200 3/4 ton Club Cab
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

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        pfenske@bcit.bc.ca
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: EFI on a Dodge 318
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>Oh?  I was told the auto-only motors had no hole at all - ie - the pilot 
>journal on the input shaft would hit the end of the crank where the hole 
>should be.

This is true, nothing a 3/4 bit on a milling machine can't fix :)  Just
that centering it will be a challenge.  I haven't found out how deep it
needs to be, but maybe I can measure this off the length of the input shaft
once I get the tranny out.  I'd really like to shove in a 6-speed or a
5-speed.  4000 RPM at 70 MPH is a bit much.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
1973 Lincoln Continental (460cid)
1975 Dodge D200 3/4 ton Club Cab
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: EFI on a Dodge 318
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>Any chance you just need forks?  The forks can be replaced w/o pulling 
>the trans apart!

Not sure, I haven't ripped it out yet.  Hoping that's the case.

>Yea, same here.  I got my bellhousing from Binghamton, NY and I live in 
>Ohio.  The yards around here had ZERO and the best they could do was get 

Really?  I haven't found dodge anything up here.  THough I now have a
bellhousing that my transmission supposively will fit into.  We'll find out
for sure when the engine is yanked out.

I will be EFI-ing this engine, and probably going one large turbo, or two
small turbos.  I've learned a lot from my radical V6 experimentation, and
will be duplicating some of the lessons learned on this 383 B block.  Just
had it overbored .030, linebored, and its in great, great shape.

>Apparently there are yards in the New England area with loads of 
>moparts...

Really?  I haven't found one yet.  Everyone here in CT squish dodges faster
than they can get them in !!!!!


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
1973 Lincoln Continental (460cid)
1975 Dodge D200 3/4 ton Club Cab
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 23:40:04 1999
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Jerry, 
	I work in Pacoima Ca., but I don't want to make you waste your time driving
to loan a book to a stranger. If you think the book is worth it I will order
it from a catalogue so I can have a copy of it for my small, but growing
library of car stuff. I am currently waiting for a couple of books I ordered
from Summit Racing. One of them is from JTR (Jaguars That Run) I guess they
specialize in that sort of thing too. I appreciate the offer though (and if I
can't find one I might take you up on it after all).
Jeff

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 23:46:20 1999
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From: "Mike Pilkenton" <mpilkent@ptw.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 92 Corvette LT-1
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 20:42:30 -0800
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Jeff, is this you?  Welcome to the efi list.

Mike Pilkenton

-----Original Message-----
From: ChvyRs92@aol.com <ChvyRs92@aol.com>
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 3:24 PM
Subject: 92 Corvette LT-1


>I have a 92 Camaro that had a v-6 in it, I recently purchased a 92 Corvette
>LT-1 motor with both computers (the ECM, and the CCM ). My big problem is
>figuring out how to wire the new motor. I know of a few aftermarket
companies
>that sell wiring harnesses, but they are pretty expensive and I don't know
if
>I really need them because I have the stock Corvette harness. I am also
>curious if I need to disable the VATS or can I wire it up to the module
>currently in my 92 Camaro? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  2 23:56:12 1999
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From: "Mike Pilkenton" <mpilkent@ptw.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: fuel pumps
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 20:52:24 -0800
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All this talk on fuel pumps brings up a question I have had.  Where can I
find an aftermarket fuel pump for FI.  All the ones I have seen are for
carb. engines.  I need one that puts out about 50 psi for the 3.1L V6 motor
and can be mounted outside the tank.

Mike
(3.1L V6 Opel GT conversion)



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 00:35:19 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Clarence Wood <clarencewood@centuryinter.net>
Subject: Re: Voltage regulator
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  Following this thread with great interest!  What is PWM??

At 08:27 PM 1/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Greg Hermann wrote:
>> 
>> >At 01:55 PM 1/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>> >
>> >>
>> >>Hence, the proper answer of PWM.


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From: "Geoff Richards" <geoffsue@one.net.au>
To: "Diy_Efi" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: GM V6
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 02:48:31 +1100
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Am interested in info on 3.8l V6 as fitted to Holden vehicles (Aus)
I believe they are Buick engines but do not understand the 
relationship between them and GM.
Would someone be able to enlighten me to this and what other
vehicles used this engine in the States so when reading different posts
I can understand a little better :-)
What is the GN type site referred to as read on this list?
If this is what I am lookin' for could I have the address please
Thanks
Geoff


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 01:00:41 1999
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In a message dated 99-01-03 00:46:41 EST, you write:

<< Am interested in info on 3.8l V6 as fitted to Holden vehicles (Aus)
 I believe they are Buick engines but do not understand the 
 relationship between them and GM.
 Would someone be able to enlighten me to this and what other
 vehicles used this engine in the States so when reading different posts
 I can understand a little better :-)
 What is the GN type site referred to as read on this list?
 If this is what I am lookin' for could I have the address please
 Thanks
 Geoff >>


Buick 3.8 liter engines have the same bolt patterns as Oldsmobiles and
Pontiacs.  Chevy's had a diffrent bolt pattern.  GM in its infinite wisdom
couldnt consolidate things enough to make life simple.  The GN engines are
turbocharged engines found in upscale Buick regals.  Hope this tidbit of info
helps
Al

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 03:14:36 1999
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Roger Anderson wrote:

> Anbody know of someone who might have adapted an efi system for a
> corvair engine?
> rog
>
> bucks, we just ran out of time...

Er, check some 'Vair pages on the web...I've seen one that was turbo'd,
intercooled etc.
If you want to go big money, try TWM - they have throttle bodies in the
Weber IDA-3 pattern.
Porsche Bosch componentry might also be available slightly cheaper(?) if
you can find used.

Good Luck!

Aaron


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Geoff Richards wrote:

> Am interested in info on 3.8l V6 as fitted to Holden vehicles (Aus) I
> believe they are Buick engines but do not understand the relationship
> between them and GM.

Geoff,
   GM is the parent company, and Chevrolet, Buick, Pontiac, Cadillac,
Oldsmobile, and GMC Truck are their divisions.  Oh, and so is Saturn -
almost forgot them. Mostly they just build the same basic cars in different
styles for various target consumer groups, and have since before WWII.
   Back in the early '70s GM started allowing the different divisions to
trade engines back and forth so that the Olds you got might have a Chevy V8
or a Buick V6 in it...or your Pontiac Trans Am might have a 403 Olds...it
can get pretty confusing, but basically the Buick V6 has been around since
the early '60s and is a child of the aluminum Buick 215 cum Rover 3.5 V8.
It has been sold in Jeeps, passenger cars in probably all of GM's
divisions, etc. The turbo versions are available in Buick Regals (of which
a Grand National is one), primarily, with a few going into GMC
Syclone/Typhoon trucklets (would that make them utelets to you? :-) and
Anniversary Edition Trans Ams. There are probably others that got the
turbo.
   Engine is still produced, I believe, and is available in supercharged
form in the Pontiac Grand Prix.

Now will you please explain Australia's muscle car era to me?

Aaron


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><< Am interested in info on 3.8l V6 as fitted to Holden vehicles (Aus)
> I believe they are Buick engines but do not understand the
> relationship between them and GM.
> Would someone be able to enlighten me to this and what other
> vehicles used this engine in the States so when reading different posts
> I can understand a little better :-)
> What is the GN type site referred to as read on this list?
> If this is what I am lookin' for could I have the address please
> Thanks
> Geoff >>
>Buick 3.8 liter engines have the same bolt patterns as Oldsmobiles and
>Pontiacs.  Chevy's had a diffrent bolt pattern.  GM in its infinite wisdom
>couldnt consolidate things enough to make life simple.  The GN engines are
>turbocharged engines found in upscale Buick regals.  Hope this tidbit of
info
>helps
>Al

    From my experience with Buick engines and minimal research on Holden
vehicles, I believe that the Holden 3800 is fairly similar to the GM series
II 3800.  I have found that the naturally aspirated Holden 3800 actualy puts
out about the same stock HP as the supercharged SII 3800.  It is found in
various modern (1996 and up) Buick vehicles including the Regal, Riviera and
Park Avenue, as well as the Pontiac Grand Prix. The older (1980s) Buick
Grand National had a 3800 but it was in a rear-wheel drive setup and had
different electronics and was, of course, turbo'd.

Soren Rounds



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 06:39:33 1999
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First it didn't show up in my mind but when thinking of this
idea a drawback appeared to me. All the welding helmets I been
looking thruu (two) are having a big green filter, looks like
that might be a problem. But why not have a LCD showing the
plate number and turning it off when a flash appear?
Hm, have to go to my fathers house and make a close examination
of his helmet in the evening



Roland Johansson
Scirocco 1,6l TIC -82
> >I like your idea of an LCD screen similar to the expensive
welding hoods. The
> >opaquing action would not have to outrun the light, only go
dark before the
> >camera lens had collected sufficient light. Anybody know the
shutter speed
> >used?
> 
> There are two sources of light used to expose the film. First
is the flash
> from the speed camera, the second is the ambient light hanging
around. The
> shutter speed is likely to be around 1/125 to 1/250 of a
second, certainly no
> faster than 1/500. Camera flahes have very short durations. I
don't know how
> quickly the light builds up from the flash, but any trigger
circuit would need
> to detect the flash building up and get the LCD opaque before
enough light had
> arived.
> 
> The effect of the ambient light would be interesting, since
this light is
> always there, and the flash is triggered somewhere in the
middle of the
> exposure. The shutter opens fully, then the flash fires, and
the shutter
> closes. Depending on the power of the flash and the distance
from the camera
> to the car, ambient light would probably have no real effect
on the image.
> 
> --
> Tom Parker - tparker@nznet.gen.nz
>            - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 07:33:31 1999
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Date: 04 Jan 99 01:05:30 +1200
From: "Tom Parker" <tparker@nznet.gen.nz>
Subject: Re: Voltage regulator
To: "Greg Hermann" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net> wrote:

>>At 01:55 PM 1/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>Hence, the proper answer of PWM.
>>
>>Exactly!
>>The pump still sees full voltage, it just has it for a limited time!

>C'mon--the PWM switch LOWERS the AVERAGE voltage by switching teh FULL
>voltage on and off rapidly. As I said, you want good smoothing of the
>output, cuz the rapid pulsing IS what will dissassemble the windings!

Won't the smoothing system turn it into a lower constant voltage? If you have
enough capacatance across it, it will just average out the pulses.

Or do you mean not this much smoothing, but enough to take the sharp edges of
the transitions between on and off?


--
Tom Parker - tparker@nznet.gen.nz
           - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 10:08:29 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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-----Original Message-----
From: Clarence Wood <clarencewood@centuryinter.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, January 03, 1999 12:49 AM
Subject: Re: Voltage regulator

Pulse Width Modulation.  On time measured as a %.  Depending on application
the frquency can be taylored to application.  So you wind up picking a
frequency
of how fast, and how long to apply power.
Bruce


>  Following this thread with great interest!  What is PWM??
>
>At 08:27 PM 1/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>Greg Hermann wrote:
>>>
>>> >At 01:55 PM 1/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>> >
>>> >>
>>> >>Hence, the proper answer of PWM.
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 10:19:05 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: fuel pumps
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-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Pilkenton <mpilkent@ptw.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, January 03, 1999 12:14 AM
Subject: Re: fuel pumps

A/C Delco, has a book that shows all their pumps vital specs., and what they
look like.  Remember when doing an intank, that means a tank R+R for any
pump work.  Personally while not as silent, I like a big dumb noisy one I
can
fix with out a hoist, and 2 friends.  Twice I've wound up changing pump
brushes on the side of the road (less than 20 mins)..  I also carry a spare
ignition module,
cap rotor some long plug wires, fuel filter  and only once been towed home,
in
many years/miles of driving.
Bruce


>All this talk on fuel pumps brings up a question I have had.  Where can I
>find an aftermarket fuel pump for FI.  All the ones I have seen are for
>carb. engines.  I need one that puts out about 50 psi for the 3.1L V6 motor
>and can be mounted outside the tank.
>
>Mike
>(3.1L V6 Opel GT conversion)
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 10:38:09 1999
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  Jeff

  I think that you will like the 'late model Chevy' engine transplant book. I
dont get up as far as Pacoima very often anyway. Still, my original offer
stands.
  Just in case you get more interested -- The book is # S 195
                  They show their Web address:WWW.ssapubl.com
                                                           714 639 7681

   Jerry

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>  Following this thread with great interest!  What is PWM??
>
>At 08:27 PM 1/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>Greg Hermann wrote:
>>>
>>> >At 01:55 PM 1/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>> >
>>> >>
>>> >>Hence, the proper answer of PWM.

Pulse Width Modulation--rapid on/off switching --the % of time on
determines the average % of supply voltage delivered.

Greg



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>Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net> wrote:
>
>>>At 01:55 PM 1/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>Hence, the proper answer of PWM.
>>>
>>>Exactly!
>>>The pump still sees full voltage, it just has it for a limited time!
>
>>C'mon--the PWM switch LOWERS the AVERAGE voltage by switching teh FULL
>>voltage on and off rapidly. As I said, you want good smoothing of the
>>output, cuz the rapid pulsing IS what will dissassemble the windings!
>
>Won't the smoothing system turn it into a lower constant voltage? If you have
>enough capacatance across it, it will just average out the pulses.
>
>Or do you mean not this much smoothing, but enough to take the sharp edges of
>the transitions between on and off?

As far as I am concerned, the smoother the better!

Greg
>
>
>--
>Tom Parker - tparker@nznet.gen.nz
>           - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/



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Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 10:02:48 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Clarence Wood <clarencewood@centuryinter.net>
Subject: Re: fuel pumps
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JEG'S 1-800-345-4545

At 08:52 PM 1/2/99 -0800, you wrote:
>All this talk on fuel pumps brings up a question I have had.  Where can I
>find an aftermarket fuel pump for FI.  All the ones I have seen are for
>carb. engines.  I need one that puts out about 50 psi for the 3.1L V6 motor
>and can be mounted outside the tank.
>
>Mike
>(3.1L V6 Opel GT conversion)
>
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 11:45:18 1999
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From: "Jon Fedock" <Galadar@worldnet.att.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: fuel pumps
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BMW, Ford (some), and VW/Audi all use external high pressure pumps. I am
using one from a VW on my TPI Trans Am with no starvation problems. YMMV

Jon

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Pilkenton <mpilkent@ptw.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, January 03, 1999 12:14 AM
Subject: Re: fuel pumps


>All this talk on fuel pumps brings up a question I have had.  Where can I
>find an aftermarket fuel pump for FI.  All the ones I have seen are for
>carb. engines.  I need one that puts out about 50 psi for the 3.1L V6 motor
>and can be mounted outside the tank.
>
>Mike
>(3.1L V6 Opel GT conversion)
>
>
>


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--WebTV-Mail-298361717-268
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Bosch offers several efi fuel pumps-


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JEG'S 1-800-345-4545

At 08:52 PM 1/2/99 -0800, you wrote:
>All this talk on fuel pumps brings up a question I have had.  Where can I
>find an aftermarket fuel pump for FI.  All the ones I have seen are for
>carb. engines.  I need one that puts out about 50 psi for the 3.1L V6 motor
>and can be mounted outside the tank.
>
>Mike
>(3.1L V6 Opel GT conversion)
>
>
>

--WebTV-Mail-298361717-268--

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 12:08:59 1999
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>JEG'S 1-800-345-4545
>
>At 08:52 PM 1/2/99 -0800, you wrote:
>>All this talk on fuel pumps brings up a question I have had.  Where can I
>>find an aftermarket fuel pump for FI.  All the ones I have seen are for
>>carb. engines.  I need one that puts out about 50 psi for the 3.1L V6 motor
>>and can be mounted outside the tank.
>>
>>Mike
>>(3.1L V6 Opel GT conversion)
>>
>>
>Kinsler Fuel Injection, Troy,  Michigan, (248) 362-1145 stocks a wide
>variety of them.

Greg >



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 12:57:59 1999
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Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 11:57:55 -0600
From: "Robert W. Hughes" <rwhughe@hal-pc.org>
Organization: BackYard Engineering
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>  In my opinion I think it would be best to get the GM service manuals for
> both vehicles so you have an accurate schematic for both wiring
> harness'....then start cutting......

If this idea appeals to you check out Alldata on the web.
(http://www.alldata.com/) They offer a CD with service information
mostly derived from the Helms manuals and one disc with coverage of two
cars would cost about $50 as opposed to $80-$120 each for the Helms.
They also have the advantage of being able to print pages of the
drawings which you can then mark up without destroying your expensive
manuals.
-- 
Robert W. Hughes (Bob)
BackYard Engineering
Houston, Texas
rwhughe@hal-pc.org

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 13:04:07 1999
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In a message dated 1/2/99 9:49:17 PM Pacific Standard Time, mpilkent@ptw.com
writes:

<< All this talk on fuel pumps brings up a question I have had.  Where can I
 find an aftermarket fuel pump for FI.  All the ones I have seen are for
 carb. engines.  I need one that puts out about 50 psi for the 3.1L V6 motor
 and can be mounted outside the tank.
 
 Mike
 (3.1L V6 Opel GT conversion) >>

I was at The NBAA (business jets and such) convention and talked to some
people from Weldon Pump. They make some used on both normally aspirated and
injected motors. They have a Motorsports Calogue, and have a number of big
name racers running them.  How about 180 gph at 100 psi? Very nice people to
talk with. I talked with one of the engineers and he was saying that the big
guys were running up around 200 psi for some of the efi racing systems. It was
about a year and a half ago, but they are a big name in Aviation and other
pumps. Rebuildable too. Hope the Area Codes are still good. But the address
should be good. Might be a group buy situation in the making. 
My contact was  

Robert F. Milar
Special Accounts Manager
po box 46479
640 Golden Parkway
Oakwood Village, Ohio 44146
Tel 904-797-7787
Fax 904-797-0205

Good luck, I had a 383 Opel Kadett years ago.
Fred Harmon
Fred Harmon Precision Machining.

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In a message dated 1/2/99 10:16:02 PM Pacific Standard Time,
clarencewood@centuryinter.net writes:

<< Following this thread with great interest!  What is PWM?? >>

PMW is Pulse Width Modulation. In motor control it is fantastic. It is used
for controlling speed and torque on motors. It is the backbone of the
machining industry. We have motors with encoders that control the velocity of
the tables on milling machines at exact speed to acurracies of 0.0001 inch or
less and can achieve velocities from 0 to over 1000 inches a minute without
losing position. Computer control allows three or more to be used to contour
with accuracies stated before. All this with constantly varying load for the
cut and the weight of the parts. Also used in printers and plotters.
it is an on/off switch of the power at a constant (usually) voltage kind of
like if you using a thermostat to keep a constant temperature in your house.
Just a thermostat for speed or in this case, pressure. Simple idea but the
control can be fantastic in use. Has anyone started on a pressure switch
controlled PMW drive. I would love to play with it. Maybe even machine some
parts if need be.

Fred Harmon
Fred Harmon Precision Machining

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 15:06:49 1999
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Subject: Re: 92 Corvette LT-1
References: <c95a08df.368e9f6f@aol.com> <368EB4D7.8C21A6DF@arm.com>
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I know you're not supposed to followup your own posts, but I forgot to
mention a couple things:

For sure you'll want the schematics for both cars.  I'd recommend buying
both factory service manuals from Helm.  Expensive, but not much
compared with what you've already got in it (and what's left to
spend...)  I have an Alldata CD and personally I'm not impressed.  If I
were doing it again I'd put the money towards a Helm manual.  Other
people like the Alldata CD, though.

Also, you may want to look at the TPI/TBI engine swapping manual from
Jags that run (www.jagsthatrun.com)  It's aimed at putting EFI engines
into older non-EFI cars but it has some good words on wiring.

Some good advice that the JTR book had was make the engine think it's in
the original car as much as possible.  That means using all the
accessories and sensors from the original car (even things like the
charcoal cannister).  That reduces the amount of hacking you have to do
on the harness.

Sit down with both schematics and figure out all the wiring in advance. 
I typed it all into a spreadsheet.  Then take it outside and start
cutting.

--steve

> > I have a 92 Camaro that had a v-6 in it, I recently purchased a 92 Corvette
> > LT-1 motor with both computers (the ECM, and the CCM ). My big problem is
> > figuring out how to wire the new motor. I know of a few aftermarket companies
> > that sell wiring harnesses, but they are pretty expensive and I don't know if
> > I really need them because I have the stock Corvette harness. I am also
> > curious if I need to disable the VATS or can I wire it up to the module
> > currently in my 92 Camaro? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

--
Steve Ravet
sravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, INC
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 15:18:40 1999
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From: "Stowe, Ted-SEA" <StowT@PerkinsCoie.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: corvairs?????
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 12:18:05 -0800 
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funny you mention this, I am thinking of buying a 67' corvair and I was
thinking about this.
there are the tube manifold adapters that would allow you to run a tbi
system. otherwise you might need the '140 hp heads and then you might be
able to drill holes for injectors.

Clark's sells 140 heads as well as I think corvair underground.


I would think a gm v-6 system would do the trick. something of the same or
slightly larger displacement.

Ted.

-----Original Message-----
From: Aaron Willis [mailto:darkmonahue@awwwsome.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 1999 12:11 AM
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: corvairs?????




Roger Anderson wrote:

> Anbody know of someone who might have adapted an efi system for a
> corvair engine?
> rog
>
> bucks, we just ran out of time...

Er, check some 'Vair pages on the web...I've seen one that was turbo'd,
intercooled etc.
If you want to go big money, try TWM - they have throttle bodies in the
Weber IDA-3 pattern.
Porsche Bosch componentry might also be available slightly cheaper(?) if
you can find used.

Good Luck!

Aaron

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 15:25:49 1999
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This is way off topic so if you can help me please reply privately.  I'm
helping my brother-in-law with a project using PIC microcontrollers
along with X-10 home automation stuff.  Specifically I want to use a PIC
to control a TW523 interface module.  I know there are PIC experts and
probably X-10 experts here, if you're one please get back to me. 
Thanks,

--steve

--
Steve Ravet
sravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, INC
www.arm.com

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Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 13:59:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Voltage regulator
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On Sat, 02 Jan 1999 17:20:40 PST "Bill the arcstarter"
<arcstarter@hotmail.com> writes:
>It was written:
>
>>>Using PWM control is better yet, as it does NOT reduce the peak
>>>voltage/torque at all - it just modulates it. PWM control on a DC 
>>>type motor reduces speed without APPRECIABLY reducing torque.
>>
>>To claim that there is not enough inductance in the motor windings to
>>smooth out the highs and lows of the PWM voltage notches is living in
>>dreamland or a sign of having ingested too much egg-nog!!
>
>Actually you can (and will) instantaneously change the voltage across an

>inductor (motor winding) w/o an instantaneous change in the current.  
>Nothing in physics says otherwise.
>
>I suppose the question is one of *what* damages the motor - rapid force 
>oscillations (caused by rapid changes in current - something which is 
>limited/prevented by the self-inductance of the windings) or some form 
>of (?) dielectric breakdown across the windings caused by rapid voltage 
>fluctuations... ?
>
>The big boys do use specially insulated magnet wire on the larger (1-10 
>hp) motors designed specifically for use with chopper drives.  I'm not 
>sure if a smaller motor (like a fuel pump) would care one way or the
other.
>
>If you build such a chopper - be sure to include a flyback or snubber 
>circuit to prevent your fet/transistor from going POOF due to the 
>inductive kickback. :-)
>
>-Bill
>(building a 10000 watt phase controlled SCR driver for my stick 
>welder)
>Wanna know how to turn OFF an SCR?  See my page:
>http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/6160/hvtank/hvtank.html

I would take a lesson from the switching regulater designs.  Put a diode
across the source that'll be reverse biased when the "chopper" transister
is on.  When the transister turns off, the energy stored in the inductor
would forward bias the diode.  That way, the current will decay more
slowly and not produce the inductive "kick".

Also, I would use a high frequency.  That way, the current wouldn't decay
much when the transister is turned off.  This would reduce the amplitude
of the mechanical vibrations.

Ray Drouillard

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 16:14:17 1999
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Subject: Re: fuel pumps
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 13:14:14 -0800 (PST)
In-Reply-To: <006d01be3739$37730160$ae184d0c@king> from "Jon Fedock" at Jan 3, 99 11:50:25 am
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> BMW, Ford (some), and VW/Audi all use external high pressure pumps. I am
> using one from a VW on my TPI Trans Am with no starvation problems. YMMV

Only some Audi.  The 5000/200 series use an in-tank pump (it _can_
be R&R'd from the trunk tho').

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 16:44:16 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: todd israels <israels@MNSi.Net>
Subject: Re: Voltage regulator
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At 01:17 PM 1/3/99 EST, you wrote:
>In a message dated 1/2/99 10:16:02 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>clarencewood@centuryinter.net writes:
>
><< Following this thread with great interest!  What is PWM?? >>
>
>PMW is Pulse Width Modulation. In motor control it is fantastic. It is used
>for controlling speed and torque on motors. It is the backbone of the
>machining industry. We have motors with encoders that control the velocity of
>the tables on milling machines at exact speed to acurracies of 0.0001 inch or
>less and can achieve velocities from 0 to over 1000 inches a minute without
>losing position. Computer control allows three or more to be used to contour
>with accuracies stated before. All this with constantly varying load for the
>cut and the weight of the parts. Also used in printers and plotters.
>it is an on/off switch of the power at a constant (usually) voltage kind of
>like if you using a thermostat to keep a constant temperature in your house.
>Just a thermostat for speed or in this case, pressure. Simple idea but the
>control can be fantastic in use. Has anyone started on a pressure switch
>controlled PMW drive. I would love to play with it. Maybe even machine some
>parts if need be.
>
>Fred Harmon
>Fred Harmon Precision Machining
>
>
	I have also been following this thread.  Yes PWM is a great way to control
a motor, especialy if accuracy in speed or position is required.  This
would be of great advantage if the return line to the tank can be
eliminated by using PWM and a presure sensor.  
	There was a control modual mentioned that droped 2.4 volt at low throtel
openings and could be made very simply with 3 or 4 rectifier diodes in
series and a NC (so failure wont cause fule starvation) relay contact.
Energize relay at low throtel openings.  To activate use a microcontroler
or a simple opamp 1:1 for isolation and low load and a second opamp as a
comparitor to trigger.  
	On an unEFI note Fred do you have a simple motor speed controler that has
PWM output and +10,-10 volt signal input?  This is for personel
experimentation with a Galil Motion card(scraped due to bad axis) and cheap
DC motors and surplus encoders.  Simple and cheap are the main objectives,
to leave more resources availabe for program development.  

				Todd Israels
 



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Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 16:56:13 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: todd israels <israels@MNSi.Net>
Subject: Re: EFI on a Dodge 318
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	Did Dodge not use EFI on late 80's pickups and cant that be put on an
older engige or swap entire engine?  I dont know Dodge maybe you do have to
reinvent the wheel.  If you have room to the front of the engine you can
swap in a Viper engine?(yes I know VERY $$ and hard to find at least in
Ontario Canada)


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 17:14:03 1999
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Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 17:13:38 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: EFI on a Dodge 318
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At 04:56 PM 1/3/99 -0500, you wrote:
>	Did Dodge not use EFI on late 80's pickups and cant that be put on an
>older engige or swap entire engine?  I dont know Dodge maybe you do have to
>reinvent the wheel.  If you have room to the front of the engine you can
>swap in a Viper engine?(yes I know VERY $$ and hard to find at least in
>Ontario Canada)
>

The problem with Chrysler EFI is the computers are potted and sealed... No
chip to replace... Makes it kind of hot-rodder or custom unfriendly.
Not sure if the 383 was ever injected though... (or what, if any, EFI parts
would swap from a 360 or 318)

===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 17:19:16 1999
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Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 17:24:08 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: todd israels <israels@MNSi.Net>
Subject: Re: Chemical warfare
In-Reply-To: <4.1.19981231120524.00937140@mail.lig.bellsouth.net>
References: <3.0.3.32.19981231104035.006adaec@mail.ot.centuryinter.net>
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At 12:12 PM 12/31/98 -0500, you wrote:
>At 10:40 AM 12/31/98 -0600, you wrote:
>>  The FBI has set up a system where they scan all, I repeat, ALL, e-mail 
>>messages looking for *key words*.  When their system finds one of the key 
>>words they begin an investigation of the individual who sent the e-mail, as 
>>well as those who received the mail.  As an aside note: when the *hackers* 
>>found out about this, they liberated the key word list from the FBI and 
>>flooded the net with messages that contained one or more of the key words.
>
>Actually, the FBI has better things to do with their time.

>
>As for EFI content, I now have a 68HC11EVB sitting here...  any suggestions
>on where to start to make it a controller? (Maybe for a lawnmower first
>then work my way up to the bigger stuff!)
>
>Later,
>DAve
>
>===========================================================
>           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
>     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
>       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
>===========================================================
>
	This has been done by several aftermarket ECM manufacturers including a
member in Australia that designed and sold a system of this type.
Unfortunetly I doubt they will share much helpful information but they
might since these systems are getting old and have or will be replaced with
a new generation.  
	On a more helpful note assighen I/O to devices and sensors, T chosen
sensors to exsisting ones and monitor and data log these devices.  I perfer
Boneyard sensors that are easily replaceable at any parts store.  This step
is optional but should provied a good learning experince, Write your
software and compare under driving conditions with factory EFI system.  
	When all is done and working a simple batch fire or throtle body system
simmaler to GM up to about 93 should be possible. I first got my 68HC11
Board for this purpose but got impatiant to drive the car and a Quadrajet
was so easy and quick.  
	Please keep me and most probably the rest of the list updated on your
progress.  

				Todd Israels

	


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 18:06:02 1999
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Date: 04 Jan 99 12:00:02 +1200
From: "Tom Parker" <tparker@nznet.gen.nz>
Subject: Re: SV: oops... (was Re: Nology)
To: "Roland Johansson" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Roland Johansson <scirocco@mail.bip.net> wrote:

>First it didn't show up in my mind but when thinking of this
>idea a drawback appeared to me. All the welding helmets I been
>looking thruu (two) are having a big green filter, looks like
>that might be a problem. But why not have a LCD showing the
>plate number and turning it off when a flash appear?
>Hm, have to go to my fathers house and make a close examination
>of his helmet in the evening

That's a good idea! However, in this part of the world, I would expect to get
nicked for it. The police won't be very impressed with a number plate that
obviously isn't reflective and is probably designed to avoid them...

--
Tom Parker - tparker@nznet.gen.nz
           - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/


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>>
>	I have also been following this thread.  Yes PWM is a great way to control
>a motor, especialy if accuracy in speed or position is required.  This
>would be of great advantage if the return line to the tank can be
>eliminated by using PWM and a presure sensor.
>
>				Todd Israels
>
There was a thread a couple of months ago, on this subject--some auto
mfgrs. are now beginning to do exactly this, although, I am quite certain,
mostly in the interest of less parts and less fuel line, together with
lower evap emissions potential, rather than in the interest of a better
system.

I would maintain that it would be BEST to use PWM control of the fuel pump
TOGETHER WITH a mechanical pressure regulator. Belt AND suspenders
approach, but it would maintain some circulation of fuel through the system
(so as to keep it cool and purged of any vapor) as well as allowing
extremely accurate, consistent function of the mechanical fuel pressure
regulator.

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 18:30:16 1999
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Subject: Re: EFI on a Dodge 318
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>	Did Dodge not use EFI on late 80's pickups and cant that be put on an
>older engige or swap entire engine?  I dont know Dodge maybe you do have to
>reinvent the wheel.  If you have room to the front of the engine you can
>swap in a Viper engine?(yes I know VERY $$ and hard to find at least in
>Ontario Canada)

I think he's already up to using a 383 ("B" big block). These and the "RB"s
(raised deck) went away I think in '76 or so, before EFI. A 383 (or better
yet a 413/426/440 RB) is so far superior to a 318/340/360 as to be almost
funny.  Have not heard a lot of noise one way or the other yet, but I have
not heard of many V-10's in things like boats yet. Nor have I seen any
Moparts aftermarket advertising for  V-10's. The fact that the same folks
are resurrecting the elephant (426 Hemi) prolly speaks pretty powerfully to
which block is the better one!! I would almost bet that you could acquire a
new Hemi for the same money as a low mileage Viper motor!! May well be
close to the same story for a low mileage V-10 truck motor!!

And I know EXACTLY how I would choose to spend the loot if it were me doing
it!!!

If nothing else is at hand, I am sure that Blower Drive Service could
whistle up an intake set up for (port) injectors for a B (or an RB) engine.
But watch it, the manifold for an RB is wider on account of the higher
decks. Yes, manifold spacers are commonly available.  But I have never seen
any "unspacers"!! Maybe someone who specializes in rescuing and
deprogramming "Moonies" could help with this, though! :-)

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 19:26:07 1999
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Subject: Re: SV: oops... (was Re: Nology)
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>Roland Johansson <scirocco@mail.bip.net> wrote:
>
>>First it didn't show up in my mind but when thinking of this
>>idea a drawback appeared to me. All the welding helmets I been
>>looking thruu (two) are having a big green filter, looks like
>>that might be a problem. But why not have a LCD showing the
>>plate number and turning it off when a flash appear?
>>Hm, have to go to my fathers house and make a close examination
>>of his helmet in the evening
>
>That's a good idea! However, in this part of the world, I would expect to get
>nicked for it. The police won't be very impressed with a number plate that
>obviously isn't reflective and is probably designed to avoid them...

Nope, I like the idea of shining a light, filtered through a filter same
color as one of the major plate colors, and mottled, at the plate, and
triggering the light on, plus a delay on, either with a radar detector or a
the flash, or maybe the flash detection as a back-up to the radar detector
(belt and suspenders again)!
Might not need the mottling of the light if, for instance with a white on
green plate, the filtered light could make the white numbers look just as
green as the green field of the plate to the black and white film in the
camera! But it seems as though if you mottled the light in the two colors
of the plate, it would get virtually impossible to read the numbers off the
film! Maybe  a light filtered with a rotating filter giving alternation
between the two colors. or two alternating strobes, one filtered to match
each of the major colors of the plate could wash out the film the best.

Regards, Greg
>
>--
>Tom Parker - tparker@nznet.gen.nz
>           - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 20:00:37 1999
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From: H Villemure <memvive@globetrotter.qc.ca>
Organization: Memoire Vive
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	 <3.0.5.32.19981229232502.00917100@localhost> <4.1.19981230004618.00958c90@mail.lig.bellsouth.net>
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Thank you Dave,

this is pretty impressive on a V engine with single turbo. Did they come
with T03 turbos? What turbine and compressor trims? Also, I would like
to know if they had a symmetric exhaust manifold? Else I would not put
big money on the car's lifetime?

> A Stock (FACTORY) Grand national will whip out mid 13's in 70 degree
> weather on factory tires... this is on 17PSI boost
> They are 3.8L (231 CI)
> Factory rated them at 245 HP, 330 Lb/Ft torque... A factory car on a dyno
> was putting 245HP at the rear wheels!
> That made crank HP about 300.
> For very few dollars (Bypass the catalytic converter, new chip and better
> tires) the GN's would nail high 12 second 1/4 mile times at 106-107MPH...
> For $1000, you could have low 12's.
> This is all with a 3500 Lb car!!!
> 
> Lawrence Conley of Humble, TX took his 86GN and got it running 9.90's.
> Factory block, forged pistons, ported/polished heads, bigger cam, bigger
> turbo etc... And it was as streetable as the day it was bought (Except
> getting in and out of the roll cage was a pain!)
> His last TR, an 83 regal with a stage II 4.1L V6 was 1200+ HP, and ran a
> best of 7.83 @ 178MPH in the 1/4 mile... all on a single turbo, no Nitrous,
> and on 117 octane VP C16 racing fuel.
> 
> Later,
> Dave

-- 
Helene V.
___________________
"If it ain't broke, make it faster"
Celica Supra 1982 & 1983
Owners of the great Celica Supra cars welcome to mk2@onelist.com  :)



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 20:42:47 1999
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In a message dated 1/3/99 8:06:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
memvive@globetrotter.qc.ca writes:

> 
>  this is pretty impressive on a V engine with single turbo. Did they come
>  with T03 turbos? What turbine and compressor trims? Also, I would like
>  to know if they had a symmetric exhaust manifold? Else I would not put
>  big money on the car's lifetime?
>  

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 20:53:10 1999
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Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 17:47:08 -0800
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Vance Rose <javer96@snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: Engine book
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At 11:39 PM 1/2/1999 EST, you wrote:
>Jerry, 
>	I work in Pacoima Ca., but I don't want to make you waste your time driving
>to loan a book to a stranger. If you think the book is worth it I will order
>it from a catalogue so I can have a copy of it for my small, but growing
>library of car stuff. I am currently waiting for a couple of books I ordered
>from Summit Racing. One of them is from JTR (Jaguars That Run) I guess they
>specialize in that sort of thing too. I appreciate the offer though (and if I
>can't find one I might take you up on it after all).
>Jeff
>
>Hi All

	Jtr has several book available. Can order direct. They also have a webb
page with info on their books. Just do a webb search for jtr.

Vance

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 20:55:53 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Yep, don't have one, but have played with chips for a number of
friends, and It's very impressive when a 3700 lb family car with air 
conditioning, power windows, power sunroof (you get the idea)
can drive to the drag strip, bolt on a set of stickies and turn 10's.
That's with a big turbo, bigger intercooler and injectors, but that's 
still pretty impressive.  The Buick V6 (pushrod, 2 valve) engine is
really a work horse.  BTW, they have a 'sort of' stainless tube 
header arrangement.  .I believe the stock turbo was a T3..
The web site has tons of info at: 
                  http://ni.umd.edu/gnttype/www/
Mike V

> 
>  this is pretty impressive on a V engine with single turbo. Did they come
>  with T03 turbos? What turbine and compressor trims? Also, I would like
>  to know if they had a symmetric exhaust manifold? Else I would not put
>  big money on the car's lifetime?
>  

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 21:08:10 1999
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Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 17:45:54 -0800
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Al Lipper <Efi@cardozo.org>
Subject: Plans for complete EFI system now online (ECU6)
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have recently completed a near-final phase of a throttle-body EFI system. It is
a complete adaptive learning system for which I have 
provided schematics, PC board layout and software. I'm also interested in
other's feedback and ideas. Anyway, you can check it out at: 
http://members.aol.com/ALIPPER/
Al


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 21:38:58 1999
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Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 21:38:37 -0500
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From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread
In-Reply-To: <368FF2E1.5DBB0942@globetrotter.qc.ca>
References: <3.0.6.32.19900106215359.0079fdc0@xephic.dynip.com>
 <3.0.5.32.19981229232502.00917100@localhost>
 <4.1.19981230004618.00958c90@mail.lig.bellsouth.net>
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At 05:44 PM 1/3/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Thank you Dave,
>
>this is pretty impressive on a V engine with single turbo. Did they come
>with T03 turbos? What turbine and compressor trims? Also, I would like
>to know if they had a symmetric exhaust manifold? Else I would not put
>big money on the car's lifetime?
>

I think the factory was a variant of the T03, but can't remember for sure.
I believe the exhaust housing was a .60 or .62 A/R.
The exhaust manifolds were "kind of" tubular headers...
Fairly equal length runners.  In stock trim and modified with chips, boost
cranked up, cooler thermostat etc, they will run 150,000 miles with no
problems (If they are well maintained)... According to the man that
designed the GN engine (Bernard Santavy) the engine was built to handle
600HP reliably.
Later,
Dave

===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 21:47:30 1999
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Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 22:48:46 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Pedro Haynes <edwards@mail.sunbeach.net>
Subject: TurboS
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I am truing to find some Nissan Zparts

Any one know where to find the Z18 turbo, or the head manifolds, and turbo
or the whole engine?

Pedro.


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 21:59:01 1999
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From: Marc Piccioni <mpiccioni@attcanada.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Voltage regulator
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 19:10:21 -0700
Encoding: 39 TEXT, 58 UUENCODE
X-MS-Attachment: WINMAIL.DAT 0 00-00-1980 00:00
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Industrial speed controller are available off the shelf that have an analog 
input to control output speed. If anyone is interested I could get the 
part/model #'s, we use them at work to control a 24Vdc blower motor but 
they work just fine @ 14V.

----------
From: 	Clarence L.Snyder[SMTP:clare.snyder.on.ca@ibm.net]
Sent: 	January 2, 1999 2:05 PM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: Voltage regulator

David A. Cooley wrote:
>
> At 04:55 AM 1/2/99 -0600, you wrote:
> >How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that
> >capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.???
> >
>
> That would be almost as bad as overvoltage...  Under voltage can kill 
them
> as well.
> ===========================================================
>            David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
>      Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
>        I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be 
approximated.
> ===========================================================
Actually, no. An AC motor is definitely sensitive to low voltage, for
various reasons. A DC motor does NOT suffer this way. A 24 volt motor
will run on 12 volts virtually forever, as long as the load placed on it
does not cause it to overload and overheat, or most dangerous, stall.
Using PWM control is better yet, as it does NOT reduce the peak
voltage/torque at all - it just modulates it. PWM control on a DC type
motor reduces speed without APPRECIABLY reducing torque.This "chopper"
type control, with feedback, could be used to control fuel pressure as
accurately as the current vacuum modulated spring type regulators - if
you can also control "bypass" to avoid vapour problems.



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From: Marc Piccioni <mpiccioni@attcanada.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: EFI on a Dodge 318
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 19:46:39 -0700
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Try Liberty Gear just outside Detroit for A833 parts, Joe carries parts for just about any 4 spd. 

----------
From: 	Bill the arcstarter[SMTP:arcstarter@hotmail.com]
Sent: 	January 2, 1999 7:35 PM
To: 	diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu; frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com
Subject: 	Re: EFI on a Dodge 318

Frederic Breitwieser wrote:

>>Sounds like an A-833 trans.  Ever had one apart?  Mine needs 
>>synchros... 
>
>Nope, just had the top cover off and peered inside, and can visually 
>see the bent forks.  its that bad.  but, it shifts, and hopefully its
>repairable without too much effort.  If the forks/syncro's are not
>available, which they should be considering how many years this 
>tranny was available, I might go syncro-less.  Though it is a truck, 
>not a race car.

Any chance you just need forks?  The forks can be replaced w/o pulling 
the trans apart!

>I've found that to be with Chryslers in general.  I've found ZERO 
>dodge trucks in the five or six junkyards that I frequent - and on a 
>trip to Raleigh in the beginning of the month I found a few and 
>scavanaged parts I needed - like the brake cables for the parking 
>brake.

Yea, same here.  I got my bellhousing from Binghamton, NY and I live in 
Ohio.  The yards around here had ZERO and the best they could do was get 
one via locator for $250!  Robbery!  I ended up paying $60 for the one 
from NY.  I consider myself lucky at that price.

Apparently there are yards in the New England area with loads of 
moparts...

-Bill

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com


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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 22:37:04 1999
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In a message dated 1/3/99 9:51:16 PM Eastern Standard Time,
edwards@mail.sunbeach.net writes:

<< 
 Any one know where to find the Z18 turbo, or the head manifolds, and turbo
 or the whole engine? >>
Yep... are you near Cleveland, Ohio, USA?
Have friend that sells used import engines.. 
Usually has the Nissan turbo stuff in stock..
What year is it??
Mike

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  3 23:07:43 1999
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cybergate.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 22:39:13 -0500
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A couple thoughts:

Transmissions only see  torque.  Power ratings are not technically correct.
If someone is rating a trans for power, find out the rpm range and calculate
the torque they really mean.  The only effect power has is to heat up the
lube.  An oil cooler can fix that problem.  Usually its the output side that
breaks when in 1st gear due to the torque multiplication.

Intercoolers are great for cooling compressed intake air resulting in higher
mass flow.  Water injection is great for its anti-detonation qualities.  Use
both!

A heavy flywheel absorbs torque when the car is accelerating, especially in
the lower gears.  This reduces the stress in the transmission.  It also
smooths the torque which also helps.  But don't dump the clutch, here the
flywheel weight hurts the trans.  I think a soft clutch is a great way to
save transmissions.

180 degree headers on a V-6?  Wouldn't routing each bank into a turbo (3
into 1) result in 120 deg and every other pulse into each turbo?  Same for
intake.

AWD is really great for low traction conditions and year-round driving.
Rear wheel drive with a mid engine and sticky tires should be nearly as good
on dry pavement with way less complexity.  How and where do you drive?

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 00:55:11 1999
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread
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>A couple thoughts:
>
>Transmissions only see  torque.  Power ratings are not technically correct.
>If someone is rating a trans for power, find out the rpm range and calculate
>the torque they really mean.  The only effect power has is to heat up the
>lube.  An oil cooler can fix that problem.  Usually its the output side that
>breaks when in 1st gear due to the torque multiplication.
>
>Intercoolers are great for cooling compressed intake air resulting in higher
>mass flow.  Water injection is great for its anti-detonation qualities.  Use
>both!
>
>A heavy flywheel absorbs torque when the car is accelerating, especially in
>the lower gears.  This reduces the stress in the transmission.  It also
>smooths the torque which also helps.  But don't dump the clutch, here the
>flywheel weight hurts the trans.  I think a soft clutch is a great way to
>save transmissions.
>
>180 degree headers on a V-6?  Wouldn't routing each bank into a turbo (3
>into 1) result in 120 deg and every other pulse into each turbo?  Same for
>intake.
>
>AWD is really great for low traction conditions and year-round driving.
>Rear wheel drive with a mid engine and sticky tires should be nearly as good
>on dry pavement with way less complexity.  How and where do you drive?
>
>Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

All true, in theory, but what I said about using a light flywheel and crank
stands, especially if you are using sticky tires, and especially for
racing. Most tranny failures are caused by impact loading, which happens
when flywheel inertia hits the gears against good traction on the other end
of things if the driver is the least bit careless with the clutch.

A soft clutch can keep you from finishing--and would therefore be a poor
choice, at least in my estimation. Plus, a lightweight flywheel  and crank
means a MUCH quicker car, which is what racing is all about!

If you doubt the bit about inertia loading being the thing which will break
a driveline, try driving a semi with a lowboy trailer with a piece of heavy
equipment on board sometime--with a GCVW in the 100K range.
A Cummins 855, and even more emphatically a KT-6 or a Cat 3406 could never
be accused of being low rotating inertia engines, there are obvious gobs of
traction available in this sort of a case, and it is as easy as sneezing to
shuck teeth off of ring gears or shear a driveline on this kind of a rig!

To the point that most competent drivers of such rigs only touch the clutch
when starting out from rest, and never touch the throttle when touching the
clutch! It is just way too easy to get real expensive repair bills any
other way!!

Regards, Greg



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--------------50B958DAB5410CD9DA92E805
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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Gary Derian wrote:

> A couple thoughts:
>
> Transmissions only see  torque.  Power ratings are not technically correct.
> If someone is rating a trans for power, find out the rpm range and calculate
> the torque they really mean.  The only effect power has is to heat up the
> lube.  An oil cooler can fix that problem.  Usually its the output side that
> breaks when in 1st gear due to the torque multiplication.
>
>

Just a note: considering the torque curve of your engine might not be a bad idea
when selecting a transmission.  When BMC (or whoever they were at that point)
converted the old (!) B-series engine for diesel use, they began breaking
transmissions due to the high cyclic torque output of the engine - in other
words, the torque was powerful enough at low RPM to break things because it was
applied in a few strong, slow, individual pulses, not in many weaker pulses as a
gasoline engine would to produce the same torque output at a higher RPM.

Just my two cents

Aaron

--------------50B958DAB5410CD9DA92E805
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML>
&nbsp;
<P>Gary Derian wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>A couple thoughts:
<P>Transmissions only see&nbsp; torque.&nbsp; Power ratings are not technically
correct.
<BR>If someone is rating a trans for power, find out the rpm range and
calculate
<BR>the torque they really mean.&nbsp; The only effect power has is to
heat up the
<BR>lube.&nbsp; An oil cooler can fix that problem.&nbsp; Usually its the
output side that
<BR>breaks when in 1st gear due to the torque multiplication.
<BR>&nbsp;
<BR>&nbsp;</BLOCKQUOTE>
Just a note: considering the torque curve of your engine might not be a
bad idea when selecting a transmission.&nbsp; When BMC (or whoever they
were at that point) converted the old (!) B-series engine for diesel use,
they began breaking transmissions due to the high <U>cyclic</U> torque
output of the engine - in other words, the torque was powerful enough at
low RPM to break things because it was applied in a few strong, slow, individual
pulses, not in many weaker pulses as a gasoline engine would to produce
the same torque output at a higher RPM.
<P>Just my two cents
<P>Aaron</HTML>

--------------50B958DAB5410CD9DA92E805--


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I've searched the archives but could not find anything relevant. I am 
interested to make my own injector duty monitor..sort of like the 
air/fuel ratio..Can this be done? I am not very familiar with 
electronics, but I've seen similar products. Therefore, I hope that 
anyone of you super geniuses can help me. In Malaysia, I couldn't find 
such a product. And to import it in would cost me an arm and leg due to 
the import duties. Thank you.

Regards
tkkhoo@hotmail.com

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 04:09:59 1999
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I have not tried but would be interested in the results.

You can get digital multimeters that have a duty cycle input this should
work and not cost much.
Some multimeters have a dwell for  checking ignition dwell/points gap which
may work for injectors????

If anyone has this type of multimeter one could they try it for us..


At 11:38 PM 3/1/99 PST, you wrote:
>I've searched the archives but could not find anything relevant. I am 
>interested to make my own injector duty monitor..sort of like the 
>air/fuel ratio..Can this be done? I am not very familiar with 
>electronics, but I've seen similar products. Therefore, I hope that 
>anyone of you super geniuses can help me. In Malaysia, I couldn't find 
>such a product. And to import it in would cost me an arm and leg due to 
>the import duties. Thank you.
>
>Regards
>tkkhoo@hotmail.com
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>


Best Regards,

STUART BUNNING
SALES ENGINEER
KENELEC PTY LTD

23-25 REDLAND DRIVE
MITCHAM VICTORIA 3132
AUSTRALIA

PHONE:  61 3 9873 1022
FAX:    61 3 9873 0200
EMAIL:  stuart@kenelec.com.au
WEB:    http://www.kenelec.com.au/


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 05:17:44 1999
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From: dhigh@hitachi-eu.com (David-HMSE Higham)
Subject: Re[2]: Drive by wire and the wish to survive the experience.
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     Some general points/ideas.
     
     Sensor diagnostics - 
     Generally sensor failures are detected either hi and lo range, when 
     out of range a fail count is started. When this count equals a defined 
     limit then a sensor hard fault is set, and a default value is 
     substituted. If the sensor value goes back into range then a recovery 
     count is started, when this equals a limit then the sensor has 
     recovered, the hard fault is cleared and sensor value is used again. 
     Other features are usually incorporated such as limiting the number of 
     hard faults per mission and storing faults to E2PROM etc.
     
     DBW safety - 
     The 5v to wiper seems like a good idea, I will give that a try!
     
     On a DBW (Drive By Wire), the ECU would have calc'd the demanded 
     throttle position. If the TPS is deemed failed, then I assume the ECU 
     would enter some limp home mode (reduced power etc), and as stated 
     below, would uses MAF and RPM to estimate TPS for continued safety 
     checking. 
     
     Just to confirm DBW uses a Driver demand signal from the pedal, uses 
     this to calc throttle position set via a stepper motor, with TPS used 
     as feedback. (No throttle cable present.)??????
     
     Sensor Sampling - 
     Somebody inquired general sensor sampling rates. The sensors can be 
     slip into fast and slow sampling (posibly medium also.) Coolant temp 
     for example would be a slow sample >100ms where as MAF and MAP would 
     be much faster <10ms (could be speed dependant). It generally depands 
     on the control loop within which these sensors are used.
     
     Any comments?
     
     Cheers,
     
     Dave


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Drive by wire and the wish to survice the experience.
Author:  "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net> at Internet-hel
Date:    31/12/98 15:48


At 03:36 PM 12/31/98 -0500, you wrote:
>It would kill both sides, but your control circuit would know 
>*immediately* that there was a failure. Any setup, with any >number 
of levels of redundancy, can *still* fail. The key point >then is 
that you be able to *know* it's failed. An ordinary TPS >setup gives 
you no such luxury; this slight change does, with >almost no extra 
hardware. There's nothing to stop you from running >dual (triple, 
quad, etc) TPSs as well, depending how much >redundancy you need, as 
opposed to failsafe, which is what I said >this trick does. (Though 
personally I'd consider an LVDT on the >throttle cable as backup 
instead, in my experience they're more >reliable.)
     
Actually, the TPS does have a way of knowing there is a failure...
In the cal, they program max hi and min low voltages that are valid... If 
the TPS input falls outside this range, it disables TPS, and estimates TPS 
from MAF or MAT and RPM etc.
Later,
Dave
     
===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 05:22:48 1999
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From: "Georg Lerm" <georg@redxch.wcape.gov.za>
Organization: RED CROSS CHILDRENS HOSPITAL
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 12:20:52 GMT-2
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Hi 

I have some time ago posted a file to the ftp site in the incoming 
directory.The name of the file is pwmeter.zip

It  measures the on time of the injector in milliseconds to 0.1 ms 
resolution if I remember correctly.Resolution could be increased.

If somebody is willing to give me some idea or specification or an 
example of what needs to be measured, I could change the code to do
this.
Is this referenced to rpm or is it just the on versus off time 
of the injector.

Regards
Georg
Georg Lerm
Chief Technician
Clinical Engineering
Red Cross Hospital
Cape Town
South Africa
Tel. +27 21 658-5120
Fax. +27 21 658-5120

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 05:29:46 1999
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From: "Roland Johansson" <scirocco@mail.bip.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: SV: fuel pumps
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 10:34:34 +0100
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The european Audis use both an intank pump to feed and a high
pressure pump outside the tank. Might have been changed for
later cars.



Roland Johansson
Scirocco 1,6l TIC -82
> > BMW, Ford (some), and VW/Audi all use external high pressure
pumps. I am
> > using one from a VW on my TPI Trans Am with no starvation
problems. YMMV
> 
> Only some Audi.  The 5000/200 series use an in-tank pump (it
_can_
> be R&R'd from the trunk tho').
> 
> Orin.


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 06:22:28 1999
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Hi !

I´m looking for a good and cheap scematic program, I have noticed in
some of uploaded files that there are a lot differet schematic programs
ourund, so what do you suggest ?? Anything running under Linux maybe?

/ Janne

-- 
-----------------------------------------
Janne Wännman 

http://www.navigate.se/~janne/janne.htm
_________________________________________

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 08:42:58 1999
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From: Wen Yen Chan <chanwe@ecf.utoronto.ca>
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Hello,

In most of the DC motor drive circuits I've played with the only filtering
between the controller and the motor was there to cut down the RFI. 
Generally the inductance of the motor coils and the inertia of the rotor
is enough to smooth out the pulsations. Due to the coil inductance and the
freewheeling diodes the current through the motor is fairly constant (at a
given setting) even though the input voltage may be turning on and off. The
average current through the motor's coils is roughly (the average input
voltage - the back EMF)/(DC coil resistance). The magnitude of the ripple
(pk-pk) is roughly ((Peak input voltage)-(back EMF)-(average current)*(DC
coil resistance))/(2*(switching freq)*inductance). The back EMF is
proportional to speed and motor flux.


On Sun, 3 Jan 1999, Tom Parker wrote:

> Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net> wrote:
> 
> >>At 01:55 PM 1/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >>
> >>>
> >>>Hence, the proper answer of PWM.
> >>
> >>Exactly!
> >>The pump still sees full voltage, it just has it for a limited time!
> 
> >C'mon--the PWM switch LOWERS the AVERAGE voltage by switching teh FULL
> >voltage on and off rapidly. As I said, you want good smoothing of the
> >output, cuz the rapid pulsing IS what will dissassemble the windings!
> 
> Won't the smoothing system turn it into a lower constant voltage? If you have
> enough capacatance across it, it will just average out the pulses.
> 
> Or do you mean not this much smoothing, but enough to take the sharp edges of
> the transitions between on and off?
> 
> 
> --
> Tom Parker - tparker@nznet.gen.nz
>            - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/
> 
> 


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Hello,

Jacobs electronics manufactures a product called the AccuVolt. I think
they have a model rated @ 100 A with an adjustable output (9-16 volts).
The device is a regulated switching p.s.



On Thu, 31 Dec 1998, Barry Tisdale wrote:

> Any electronics gurus out there familiar w/ voltage boosters / regulators?  There's a manufacturer out there specializing in aftermarket parts for turbo cars that sells an adjustable voltage regulator that will supply 12-16v (@ up to 40a) from a battery source of 8-12v, to boost the stock fuel pump output.
> 
> Any idea what circuitry is involved?  The price of this gadget is $250 or so, which probably means you could put it together for $50 (?).  If the stock pump is not up to the needs of a hopped up engine, this seems like a neat gadget.
> 
> Barry
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 09:02:27 1999
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Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 09:02:23 -0500
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread
In-Reply-To: <3.0.6.32.19900106215359.0079fdc0@xephic.dynip.com>
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On Sat, 6 Jan 1990, Frederic Breitwieser wrote:

> Date: Sat, 06 Jan 1990 21:53:59 -0500
> From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Water Injection Thread
> 
> Greetings,
> 

BIG snip of very interesting stuff

> 
> A cheesy knock sensor schematic leached off the web fed a third input to
> the op-amp circuit so if the engine knocked, it alky'd itself just to be
> sure detonation was squashed, squashed, squashed.


do you rememberwhere to find this schematic ??


> 
> Frederic Breitwieser
> Fairfield County CT
> http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
> 1989 500cid Twin-Turbo HMMV
> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> 1973 460cid Lincoln Continental
> 1975 Dodge D200 3/4 Ton Club Cab
> 2000 Buick Twin-Turbo GTP (in progress)
> 
> "Forced Induction as a Way of Life!"
> 
> 
> 

Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8


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Header tuning is done to help scavenge the cylinder and ensure a clean fresh
charge.  Turbo charging does the same thing by increasing the pressure at
the intake side.  The turbine on the exhaust side represents a restriction.
If it didn't the turbine wouldn't turn!  As such, no tuning of the exhaust
is going to help move the gases through the pipes any faster or better.  You
could make the turbine less restrictive but this is tuning the turbo to
higher rpms with more lag time on the bottom end.

Most turbine kits have fairly short runs to maintain as much heat as
possible (the realm of turbos is the realm of thermodynamics).  It is the
energy of the exhaust gases that drives the turbine.  So, short runs, even
insulate the pipes to retain as much heat as possible.  On the back side of
the turbo, make the exhaust pipe as large as you like! 

Also turbine housings determine the characteristics of the turbo.  Larger
housings produce higher HP by passing more exhaust gas allowing the
compressor charge to purge the cylinder but can leave a hole on the bottom
end as there is a lag in changing the speed of the turbo.  Smaller turbine
housings are much more responsive and can change compressor speed much more
quickly but can become restrictive at higher rpms.  this is the reason some
cars have multiple turbos.  To cover holes on the bottom while providing the
necessary volume at the top end.  

If your application can produce max hp with a single turbo while at the same
time not experiencing lag on the bottom end, money spent on multiple turbos
is wasted money.  On the other hand, if you can only obtain max volume with
a setup that leaves a lag at the bottom end, it is possible the only
recourse will be 2 (or more) turbos.

Quick recap:  A good turbine combination is the marriage of the right
compressor with the right turbine housing.
	compressor must be large enough to supply sufficient volume of air
required at max rpm
	The turbine determines how fast the compressor spins. 
	Bigger turbine housings will flow more exhaust gases but will take
longer to change the speed of the turbo (expecially at low 
		low rpms)
	Smaller turbine housings will flow less exhaust gas but will spin up
much faster (no bottom end hole). 
	There is no advantage to be gained by trying to "tune" the exhaust
by either pipe length or pipe matching at collectors.

Good luck!

Rick

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Gary Derian [SMTP:gderian@cybergate.net]
> Sent:	Sunday, January 03, 1999 10:39 PM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: Water Injection Thread
> 
> A couple thoughts:
> 
> Transmissions only see  torque.  Power ratings are not technically
> correct.
> If someone is rating a trans for power, find out the rpm range and
> calculate
> the torque they really mean.  The only effect power has is to heat up the
> lube.  An oil cooler can fix that problem.  Usually its the output side
> that
> breaks when in 1st gear due to the torque multiplication.
> 
> Intercoolers are great for cooling compressed intake air resulting in
> higher
> mass flow.  Water injection is great for its anti-detonation qualities.
> Use
> both!
> 
> A heavy flywheel absorbs torque when the car is accelerating, especially
> in
> the lower gears.  This reduces the stress in the transmission.  It also
> smooths the torque which also helps.  But don't dump the clutch, here the
> flywheel weight hurts the trans.  I think a soft clutch is a great way to
> save transmissions.
> 
> 180 degree headers on a V-6?  Wouldn't routing each bank into a turbo (3
> into 1) result in 120 deg and every other pulse into each turbo?  Same for
> intake.
> 
> AWD is really great for low traction conditions and year-round driving.
> Rear wheel drive with a mid engine and sticky tires should be nearly as
> good
> on dry pavement with way less complexity.  How and where do you drive?
> 
> Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 09:32:01 1999
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>Gary Derian wrote:
>
>> A couple thoughts:
>>
>> Transmissions only see  torque.  Power ratings are not technically correct.
>> If someone is rating a trans for power, find out the rpm range and calculate
>> the torque they really mean.  The only effect power has is to heat up the
>> lube.  An oil cooler can fix that problem.  Usually its the output side that
>> breaks when in 1st gear due to the torque multiplication.
>>
>>
>
>Just a note: considering the torque curve of your engine might not be a
>bad idea
>when selecting a transmission.  When BMC (or whoever they were at that point)
>converted the old (!) B-series engine for diesel use, they began breaking
>transmissions due to the high cyclic torque output of the engine - in other
>words, the torque was powerful enough at low RPM to break things because it was
>applied in a few strong, slow, individual pulses, not in many weaker
>pulses as a
>gasoline engine would to produce the same torque output at a higher RPM.
>
>Just my two cents
>
>Aaron
>
Betcha they made the flywheel heavier , among other parts of the conversion!

Greg



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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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-----Original Message-----
From: Georg Lerm <georg@redxch.wcape.gov.za>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, January 04, 1999 5:44 AM
Subject: Re: Injector Duty Monitor

Which reminds me when I try to look at anything, I get a drop down box, and
asked what viewer,  what do I select?.    The options are like excel, cs,
cdphoto,
etc..
Thanks
Bruce


Hi

I have some time ago posted a file to the ftp site in the incoming
directory.The name of the file is pwmeter.zip

It  measures the on time of the injector in milliseconds to 0.1 ms
resolution if I remember correctly.Resolution could be increased.

If somebody is willing to give me some idea or specification or an
example of what needs to be measured, I could change the code to do
this.
Is this referenced to rpm or is it just the on versus off time
of the injector.

Regards
Georg
Georg Lerm
Chief Technician
Clinical Engineering
Red Cross Hospital
Cape Town
South Africa
Tel. +27 21 658-5120
Fax. +27 21 658-5120



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 09:47:21 1999
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Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 09:47:45 -0500
From: "Clarence L.Snyder" <clare.snyder.on.ca@ibm.net>
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Clarence Wood wrote:
> 
>   Following this thread with great interest!  What is PWM??
> 
> At 08:27 PM 1/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >Greg Hermann wrote:
> >>
> >> >At 01:55 PM 1/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >> >
> >> >>
> >> >>Hence, the proper answer of PWM.
Pulse Width Modulation, or a "chopper"

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 09:47:51 1999
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On Tue, 31 Dec 1996, Ronald T. Webb wrote:

M>
M>
M>Oh yea - one more thing - you don't need to trigger the LCD from a camera flash, just
M>drive it from a RADAR detector. Pick the signal off the red LED, and throw in a 10
M>second delay before the LCD is allowed to return to normal.

Ahh, but the point here is to only obscure the number plate when the
picture is being taken, so there is no way a cop can see the plate being
obscured.. Yes, in Australia you do get chase cars accompanying car
mounted speed cameras, and they will look funny at something that wlooks
weird for ten seconds (If you're gonna display a different number, remember
it wont look normal unless u only do things like change U's to O's, or F's
to E's.. u still need the reflective crap to show thru).
What about painting the reflective stuff with opaque paint? Still the same
colour, just much less reflective.
On another note.. If you get a radar detector.. Why the hell would you need
to cover ur plate??? Oh yeah, do shadow detectors in US really cost only
$100???

M>Now we have :
M>                        LCD hood - $250
M>                        RADAR detector : $100
M>                        555 delay timer    : $.50     555 design
M>
M>Remember - Never build it if you can buy it...

What??? ;ppp

Cheers, Mos.

M>
M>
M>

--
+----------------------------------------------------+
|           Jealousy is a lifelong curse...          |
|     Reality is the only obstacle to happiness.     |
|              Taciturnity is aurous.                |
+----------------------------------------------------+
| Lukasz Szymanski,                       /\/\OSFET  |
| 3rd Yr, BE(Comp)/MBiomedE                       |--+
| The University of New South Wales            __||<-+
| Email: s2193387@cse.unsw.edu.au                 |--|
| Web: http://www.cse.unsw.edu.au/~s2193387/         |
+----------------------------------------------------+


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 10:52:17 1999
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From: bob@bobthecomputerguy.com (Robert Harris)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Water vs Intercooler
Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 15:51:41 GMT
Organization: Bob - the Computer Guy
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Now that all the theoretical discussions are winding down and everyone is
reconvinced they were right and Corky Bell is GOD, I thought perhaps a very
small minority of you might want to  look at the results someone got actually
testing water injection in the later half of the twentieth century.  

http://home.ccci.org/Key_Information/MerkurPage.htm



The Luddites were RIGHT!!

Habaneros - not just for breakfast anymore

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 10:56:06 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: more on schematic program
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I found a number of schematic and routing programs at
http://www.industry.net/c/mn/_swcircuits

I have yet to try any of them out.  I need to create a smalle
(20-30 components) board.  Does anyone have any suggestions or
recommendations of any of these utilities?

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 11:00:23 1999
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Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread
References: <19981231.015309.4798.6.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
	 <3.0.6.32.19900106215359.0079fdc0@xephic.dynip.com>
	 <3.0.5.32.19981230182356.0091ed30@localhost> <4.1.19990102191618.009588c0@mail.lig.bellsouth.net>
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>

The Porsche 930 is a 4 speed 2WD transaxel.  It is very strong.A friend of mine
used one with a 650HP (actual dyno reading)
3.4 liter a 1.4 bar.  The transmission had no problems at all.


> Not sure if the Porsche 930 is AWD, but it's transaxle can handle a VERY
> modified Chevy 350...
> Guy in Los Angeles had a Porsche 911 with an honest 450 HP 350 V8 and a 930
> transaxle... Went for a ride once that scared even me!




From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 11:01:32 1999
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Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 11:03:28 -0500 (EST)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <5D6B33A38300D211AC9B00609748B226FF507C@tceis3.indy.tce.com> from "Jemison Richard" at Jan 4, 99 09:30:47 am
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> 
> Header tuning is done to help scavenge the cylinder and ensure a clean fresh
> charge.  Turbo charging does the same thing by increasing the pressure at
> the intake side.  The turbine on the exhaust side represents a restriction.
> If it didn't the turbine wouldn't turn!  As such, no tuning of the exhaust
> is going to help move the gases through the pipes any faster or better.  You
> could make the turbine less restrictive but this is tuning the turbo to
> higher rpms with more lag time on the bottom end.

totally wrong
because turbo exhausts are operating under higher pressures
they are even more responsive to exhaust tuning than NA cars
properly designed headers befroe a turbo cna make massive power gains

Clive 

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From: "Kurek, Larry" <lkurek@anl.gov>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Need H_elp with an 89 MPFI 2.8 V6 (Need MAF...)
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 10:08:40 -0600 
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Guys:

I am having a slight problem with the 2.8 MPFI motor I put in my S10 in
place of the old carb motor with the hole in the side of the block :)

I was driving home last night and it started cuting out at anything between
off idle to about half throttle...kind of like it was running out of gas,
but it wasn't since I JUST filled up the tank. The fuel pump is new, and is
getting great pressure, so I don't think it is a fuel problem. However...the
motor seemed to fix itself and run great again. No SES light either. Once I
got home, I decided to check the obvious....coil connectors, wires, etc
etc...all seemed fine. However, after a quick test drive, I popped the hood
and it almost died out on me.. came back, and set an SES light...code 34,
low MAF reading. So, I backprobed the MAF connector and all was OK, I
checked for any loose connections and didn't see any either, so i reset the
ECM and it seemed OK. Well, on the drive to work this morning, same damn
thing. Again, a code 34. One of the causes for this code is a leak between
the MAF and the throttle body. I checked this as well, and the only thing
that MAY be a problem, is the temperature sensor bung I siliconed into the
elbow. The silicone looks to have pulled back just a bit and there may be a
SLIGHT opening into the elbow. Could this be enough to cause a problem? I
can't emphasize enough how small of a leak this may be. Are these MAF
sensors that sensitive? FWIW, I am also running an open element K&N filter,
and it has recently gotten quite cold here (Chicago area). 

Sooo....any ideas?  How do I go about testing the MAF itself? Like I
mentioned above...the connector checks out fine with +B, ground, and +5v. 

Does anyone have a spare MAF that they would be willing to part with? This
is a three wire MAF out of an 89 Camaro 2.8 V6. It isn't the hot wire
variety, but seems to use a thermistor instead?

Finally, I did note that the lights on the car dim on occasion for a few
seconds at a time. Could this be a bad alternator? Could this cause the
problems with the MAF? I'm stretching here guys...I don't want to get
stranded in sub-zero temperatures in the middle of nowhere...

Thanks!


Larry

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 11:13:40 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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In a message dated 1/2/99 9:05:10 PM Pacific Standard Time, mpilkent@ptw.com
writes:

<< Subj:	 Re: fuel pumps
 Date:	1/2/99 9:05:10 PM Pacific Standard Time
 From:	mpilkent@ptw.com (Mike Pilkenton)
 Sender:	owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 Reply-to:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 
 All this talk on fuel pumps brings up a question I have had.  Where can I
 find an aftermarket fuel pump for FI.  All the ones I have seen are for
 carb. engines.  I need one that puts out about 50 psi for the 3.1L V6 motor
 and can be mounted outside the tank.
 
 Mike
 (3.1L V6 Opel GT conversion)
  >>
Mallory 4060 FI   (good for approx 300hp)  or if your really making some power
use a 5110 FI (good for approx 1150 hp)...usually $135 and $250
respectively.......
-Carl Summers

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 11:14:00 1999
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cybergate.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 11:05:28 -0500
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I think we agree about flywheel effects.  My point is that a heavy flywheel
will smooth out engine torque variation when the clutch is engaged but can
increase shock loads when starting out, a two edged sword.  My preference is
to have as light a flywheel as I can stand for driveability.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

>
>All true, in theory, but what I said about using a light flywheel and crank
>stands, especially if you are using sticky tires, and especially for
>racing. Most tranny failures are caused by impact loading, which happens
>when flywheel inertia hits the gears against good traction on the other end
>of things if the driver is the least bit careless with the clutch.
>
>A soft clutch can keep you from finishing--and would therefore be a poor
>choice, at least in my estimation. Plus, a lightweight flywheel  and crank
>means a MUCH quicker car, which is what racing is all about!
>
>If you doubt the bit about inertia loading being the thing which will break
>a driveline, try driving a semi with a lowboy trailer with a piece of heavy
>equipment on board sometime--with a GCVW in the 100K range.
>A Cummins 855, and even more emphatically a KT-6 or a Cat 3406 could never
>be accused of being low rotating inertia engines, there are obvious gobs of
>traction available in this sort of a case, and it is as easy as sneezing to
>shuck teeth off of ring gears or shear a driveline on this kind of a rig!
>
>To the point that most competent drivers of such rigs only touch the clutch
>when starting out from rest, and never touch the throttle when touching the
>clutch! It is just way too easy to get real expensive repair bills any
>other way!!
>
>Regards, Greg
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 11:14:30 1999
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Subject: Re: SV: oops... (was Re: Nology)
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On Sat, 2 Jan 1999, Roland Johansson wrote:

M>First it didn't show up in my mind but when thinking of this
M>idea a drawback appeared to me. All the welding helmets I been
M>looking thruu (two) are having a big green filter, looks like
M>that might be a problem. But why not have a LCD showing the
M>plate number and turning it off when a flash appear?

Because an LCD panel does not consitute a legal number plate. If you get
pulled over for anything, I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to work out
something funny is happening. I very much doubt an LCD panel showing the
numbers would be convincing. Also the welding mask LCD panels turn opaque 
entirely. You would need to obtain an LCD panel that has individual
sections in it to make up the differnet numbers and letters. 
In Australia you are allowed to have clear plastic number plate covers,
hence an LCD panel can be made to look like one of those.

Cheers, Mos.

M>Hm, have to go to my fathers house and make a close examination
M>of his helmet in the evening
M>
M>
M>
M>Roland Johansson
M>Scirocco 1,6l TIC -82
M>> >I like your idea of an LCD screen similar to the expensive
M>welding hoods. The
M>> >opaquing action would not have to outrun the light, only go
M>dark before the
M>> >camera lens had collected sufficient light. Anybody know the
M>shutter speed
M>> >used?
M>> 
M>> There are two sources of light used to expose the film. First
M>is the flash
M>> from the speed camera, the second is the ambient light hanging
M>around. The
M>> shutter speed is likely to be around 1/125 to 1/250 of a
M>second, certainly no
M>> faster than 1/500. Camera flahes have very short durations. I
M>don't know how
M>> quickly the light builds up from the flash, but any trigger
M>circuit would need
M>> to detect the flash building up and get the LCD opaque before
M>enough light had
M>> arived.
M>> 
M>> The effect of the ambient light would be interesting, since
M>this light is
M>> always there, and the flash is triggered somewhere in the
M>middle of the
M>> exposure. The shutter opens fully, then the flash fires, and
M>the shutter
M>> closes. Depending on the power of the flash and the distance
M>from the camera
M>> to the car, ambient light would probably have no real effect
M>on the image.
M>> 
M>> --
M>> Tom Parker - tparker@nznet.gen.nz
M>>            - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/
M>

--
+----------------------------------------------------+
|           Jealousy is a lifelong curse...          |
|     Reality is the only obstacle to happiness.     |
|              Taciturnity is aurous.                |
+----------------------------------------------------+
| Lukasz Szymanski,                       /\/\OSFET  |
| 3rd Yr, BE(Comp)/MBiomedE                       |--+
| The University of New South Wales            __||<-+
| Email: s2193387@cse.unsw.edu.au                 |--|
| Web: http://www.cse.unsw.edu.au/~s2193387/         |
+----------------------------------------------------+


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 11:56:02 1999
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From: Jemison Richard <JemisonR@tce.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: SV: oops... (was Re: Nology)
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 11:55:52 -0500 
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I've followed this thread with some interest (as I hate the concept of
ticket by pix) but I haven't heard a convincing solution yet.  What ever
happened to just covering up the plate with plastic, a hinged panel, etc?  I
only blast through these things at night when no ones around.  That being
the case, no one is going to be following me to see what my plate looks
like.  I'm just starting to think, maybe low tech is the way to go here, ha!

Rick

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Mos [SMTP:s2193387@cse.unsw.edu.au]
> Sent:	Monday, January 04, 1999 11:13 AM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: SV: oops... (was Re: Nology)
> 
> On Sat, 2 Jan 1999, Roland Johansson wrote:
> 
> M>First it didn't show up in my mind but when thinking of this
> M>idea a drawback appeared to me. All the welding helmets I been
> M>looking thruu (two) are having a big green filter, looks like
> M>that might be a problem. But why not have a LCD showing the
> M>plate number and turning it off when a flash appear?
> 
> Because an LCD panel does not consitute a legal number plate. If you get
> pulled over for anything, I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to work out
> something funny is happening. I very much doubt an LCD panel showing the
> numbers would be convincing. Also the welding mask LCD panels turn opaque 
> entirely. You would need to obtain an LCD panel that has individual
> sections in it to make up the differnet numbers and letters. 
> In Australia you are allowed to have clear plastic number plate covers,
> hence an LCD panel can be made to look like one of those.
> 
> Cheers, Mos.
> 
> M>Hm, have to go to my fathers house and make a close examination
> M>of his helmet in the evening
> M>
> M>
> M>
> M>Roland Johansson
> M>Scirocco 1,6l TIC -82
> M>> >I like your idea of an LCD screen similar to the expensive
> M>welding hoods. The
> M>> >opaquing action would not have to outrun the light, only go
> M>dark before the
> M>> >camera lens had collected sufficient light. Anybody know the
> M>shutter speed
> M>> >used?
> M>> 
> M>> There are two sources of light used to expose the film. First
> M>is the flash
> M>> from the speed camera, the second is the ambient light hanging
> M>around. The
> M>> shutter speed is likely to be around 1/125 to 1/250 of a
> M>second, certainly no
> M>> faster than 1/500. Camera flahes have very short durations. I
> M>don't know how
> M>> quickly the light builds up from the flash, but any trigger
> M>circuit would need
> M>> to detect the flash building up and get the LCD opaque before
> M>enough light had
> M>> arived.
> M>> 
> M>> The effect of the ambient light would be interesting, since
> M>this light is
> M>> always there, and the flash is triggered somewhere in the
> M>middle of the
> M>> exposure. The shutter opens fully, then the flash fires, and
> M>the shutter
> M>> closes. Depending on the power of the flash and the distance
> M>from the camera
> M>> to the car, ambient light would probably have no real effect
> M>on the image.
> M>> 
> M>> --
> M>> Tom Parker - tparker@nznet.gen.nz
> M>>            - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/
> M>
> 
> --
> +----------------------------------------------------+
> |           Jealousy is a lifelong curse...          |
> |     Reality is the only obstacle to happiness.     |
> |              Taciturnity is aurous.                |
> +----------------------------------------------------+
> | Lukasz Szymanski,                       /\/\OSFET  |
> | 3rd Yr, BE(Comp)/MBiomedE                       |--+
> | The University of New South Wales            __||<-+
> | Email: s2193387@cse.unsw.edu.au                 |--|
> | Web: http://www.cse.unsw.edu.au/~s2193387/         |
> +----------------------------------------------------+

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 12:12:57 1999
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Subject: Was Water Injection , now header impact on turbos
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First, let me say that I'd like to hear D. Cooley or 
 F.Breitwieser comment on this topic.

There are often exceptions to rules and trends, but
the following is mostly my opinion, formed while
playing with turbos (as a hobby) for 20 years:

Actually, with many *mild* turbo applications, 
there IS some performance to be gained
by altering primary tube size/length, but I *think* it has
more to do with volume of the tubes..  Turbo Buick
owners who install the popular Hooker headers often
report a loss of bottom end & midrange torque
as well as slower spool-up, while sometimes adding to 
the high RPM power levels.  The effect is similar 
to going to a larger AR turbine housing.  For milder 
applications, there is a thoery, that keeping the
primary tube as short (small volume) as possible
tends to more directly expose the turbine to desirable
low rpm exhaust pulses, which aid in spool-up or
possibly allow you to use a slightly larger turbine 
housing.   There are other factors, but the factory
header/manifold is a good example of the small 
volume exhaust tract, when compared to the Hooker 
Headers.  Just to counter the above argument, 
 when you employ a REALLY high flowing  
 manifold/cam/port arrangement, the advantages
of going *BIG all around* outweigh the pulse benifits
of the small volume headers.  The size of the exhaust
tract (tube ID & length) are a critical part of the total 
"package" that many Turbo racers stress, when 
 discussing and planning modifications to their turbo
cars & trucks.
Comments? yes? no? maybe?
Mike V.  Thread bender for a day..

In a message dated 1/4/99 9:51:53 AM Eastern Standard Time, JemisonR@tce.com
writes:

> 	The turbine determines how fast the compressor spins. 
>  	Bigger turbine housings will flow more exhaust gases but will take
>  longer to change the speed of the turbo (expecially at low 
>  		low rpms)
>  	Smaller turbine housings will flow less exhaust gas but will spin up
>  much faster (no bottom end hole). 
>  	There is no advantage to be gained by trying to "tune" the exhaust
>  by either pipe length or pipe matching at collectors.
>  

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 12:27:40 1999
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Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 11:27:36 -0600
From: "Robert W. Hughes" <rwhughe@hal-pc.org>
Organization: BackYard Engineering
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My welding helmet LCD filter is about 1 1/4 x 3 inches and cost $120. It
is a purple tint(dark) when turned off and green when on and not
triggered. It is much too dark at any time to put over a license plate
and have the plate be readable. There may be an internal filter
responsible for some of this opacity but I'm not going to tear it up to
find out - this is probably the best welding accessory ever made.
-- 
Robert W. Hughes (Bob)
BackYard Engineering
Houston, Texas
rwhughe@hal-pc.org

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Bruce Plecan wrote:

> 
> Which reminds me when I try to look at anything, I get a drop down box, and
> asked what viewer,  what do I select?.    The options are like excel, cs,
> cdphoto,
> etc..
> Thanks
> Bruce

Depends on the file type.  For most of the files on the FTP site, you
just select "save to disk" or something like that and tell it where to
save it.  Netscape asks you that when it sees a file type that it
doesn't know how to display (like .zip, .exe, others).  If you download
and install winzip (like from www.shareware.com) it'll "register" the
.zip extension, so the next time you click on a .zip file netscape will
know to run winzip for it.  Same with .pdf if you install acrobat
reader, etc.

As far as reading duty cycle, couldn't you make up a circuit with an
opamp buffer, and a resistor/capacitor to filter the signal, then read
the voltage with a digital voltmeter?  0v=0%, 12v=100%?

Or, just go buy a cheap analog voltmeter with a needle.  It's reading
will vary from 0-12 depending on duty cycle.

--steve

> 
> Hi
> 
> I have some time ago posted a file to the ftp site in the incoming
> directory.The name of the file is pwmeter.zip
> 
> It  measures the on time of the injector in milliseconds to 0.1 ms
> resolution if I remember correctly.Resolution could be increased.
> 
> If somebody is willing to give me some idea or specification or an
> example of what needs to be measured, I could change the code to do
> this.
> Is this referenced to rpm or is it just the on versus off time
> of the injector.
> 
> Regards
> Georg
> Georg Lerm
> Chief Technician
> Clinical Engineering
> Red Cross Hospital
> Cape Town
> South Africa
> Tel. +27 21 658-5120
> Fax. +27 21 658-5120

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 12:37:41 1999
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Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 11:37:37 -0600
From: "Robert W. Hughes" <rwhughe@hal-pc.org>
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> I would think a gm v-6 system would do the trick. something of the same or
> slightly larger displacement.

The system off of a 2.8L GMV6 should be just about perfect. The system
off of a Fiero V6 would probably be best since this was a high
performance unit with a MAP sensor. Even the PROM tables would probably
be very close except for engine temp (my Corvair used to run 300-400deg
head temp where my Fiero runs 195). The two engines are similar in bore
and stroke and camshaft timing and the 2.8 distributor is the small type
so its guts could probably be transplanted into the Corvair distributor,
The biggest problem would be the intake. Ideally you would mill off the
intake manifold and add 6 individual runners to a plenum mounted above
the fan with the throttle body mounted on this. This would require a
modified throttle linkage like the single four-barrel installation.
There would be a lot of detail changes but it would be a really neat car
when complete.
-- 
Robert W. Hughes (Bob)
BackYard Engineering
Houston, Texas
rwhughe@hal-pc.org

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 12:39:43 1999
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cybergate.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: GM V6
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 12:03:26 -0500
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The Syclone/Typhoon uses the Chevy 4.3 liter V-6, not the Buick 3.8 V-6.
The Buick is 3/4 of old 215 V-8 (stretched with a taller deck, longer
stroke, bigger bore) as you said.  The 4.3 Chevy V-6 is 3/4 of a 350 Chevy
V-8.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

<snip>
>can get pretty confusing, but basically the Buick V6 has been around since
>the early '60s and is a child of the aluminum Buick 215 cum Rover 3.5 V8.
>It has been sold in Jeeps, passenger cars in probably all of GM's
>divisions, etc. The turbo versions are available in Buick Regals (of which
>a Grand National is one), primarily, with a few going into GMC
>Syclone/Typhoon trucklets (would that make them utelets to you? :-) and
>Anniversary Edition Trans Ams. There are probably others that got the
>turbo.
>   Engine is still produced, I believe, and is available in supercharged
>form in the Pontiac Grand Prix.
>
>Now will you please explain Australia's muscle car era to me?
>
>Aaron


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 12:53:57 1999
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Subject: Re: Need H_elp with an 89 MPFI 2.8 V6 (Need MAF...)
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Howday

Best way to check a FM MAF is with a scope. Use a reg scope or
an ignition analyzer in the low volts position.

You should see a steady square wave which changes frequency with airflow

:peter



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 13:07:45 1999
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In a message dated 1/4/99 12:47:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
gderian@cybergate.net writes:

> The Syclone/Typhoon uses the Chevy 4.3 liter V-6, not the Buick 3.8 V-6.
>  The Buick is 3/4 of old 215 V-8 (stretched with a taller deck, longer
>  stroke, bigger bore) as you said.  The 4.3 Chevy V-6 is 3/4 of a 350 Chevy
>  V-8.

Gary is correct.. 4 of my friends have Turbo Buicks, and other than
the cigarete lighter, and some metric bolts, not much interchanges
with my Syclone.  Worth mentioning, is that the Buick has
stronger pistons, similar flowing ex-ports, 30-35% better intake ports,
Smoother idle and beter off-idle response (maybe due to SFI?)..
About the only thing they don't do better than the Syclone pickup is haul 
manure..  
HTH
Mike V

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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: Injector Duty Monitor
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-----Original Message-----
From: steve ravet <Steve.Ravet@arm.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, January 04, 1999 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: Injector Duty Monitor

Yes, but after you do the zip thing.........  He mentioned pwmeter, which is
zip,
ya fine, unzip, and I still can't see anything, other than a drop down
window.
Just for grins try something with a .asm file extension, on a windows
machine.
Some of us don't make a living with this stuff, and hit dead ends.
  Yes I do have the winzip, and that ain't the problem.  It's what comes
next......
Bruce
  Sorry but I've asked this a couple times and all I get is use winzip, and
that
has nothing to do with what I'm asking..



Depends on the file type.  For most of the files on the FTP site,

I'm not asking about most, I'm asking about pwmeter........

 you
>just select "save to disk" or something like that and tell it where to
>save it.  Netscape asks you that when it sees a file type that it
>doesn't know how to display (like .zip, .exe, others).  If you download
>and install winzip (like from www.shareware.com) it'll "register" the
>.zip extension, so the next time you click on a .zip file netscape will
>know to run winzip for it.  Same with .pdf if you install acrobat
>reader, etc.
>
>As far as reading duty cycle, couldn't you make up a circuit with an
>opamp buffer, and a resistor/capacitor to filter the signal, then read
>the voltage with a digital voltmeter?  0v=0%, 12v=100%?

Ya, I could if I wanted to study to be an EE.  So I just plug along with
a dwell meter...
  If I wanted that thou, I wouldn't ask for the other.  I'd really like to
read to at least .x, if not .xx, thou.........
>
>Or, just go buy a cheap analog voltmeter with a needle.  It's reading
>will vary from 0-12 depending on duty cycle.
>
>--steve
>
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> I have some time ago posted a file to the ftp site in the incoming
>> directory.The name of the file is pwmeter.zip
>>
>> It  measures the on time of the injector in milliseconds to 0.1 ms
>> resolution if I remember correctly.Resolution could be increased.
>>
>> If somebody is willing to give me some idea or specification or an
>> example of what needs to be measured, I could change the code to do
>> this.
>> Is this referenced to rpm or is it just the on versus off time
>> of the injector.
>>
>> Regards
>> Georg
>> Georg Lerm
>> Chief Technician
>> Clinical Engineering
>> Red Cross Hospital
>> Cape Town
>> South Africa
>> Tel. +27 21 658-5120
>> Fax. +27 21 658-5120
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 13:35:29 1999
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Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 12:00:32 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Clarence Wood <clarencewood@centuryinter.net>
Subject: Re: Turbo header tuning
Cc: clive@problem.tantech.com
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  Clive, have thought that pre-turbo tuning would help but everyone I have spoken to has claimed minimal benefits.  Would really like to hear more on the subject. 

At 11:03 AM 1/4/99 -0500, you wrote:
>> 
>> Header tuning is done to help scavenge the cylinder and ensure a clean fresh
>> charge.  Turbo charging does the same thing by increasing the pressure at
>> the intake side.  The turbine on the exhaust side represents a restriction.
>> If it didn't the turbine wouldn't turn!  As such, no tuning of the exhaust
>> is going to help move the gases through the pipes any faster or better.  You
>> could make the turbine less restrictive but this is tuning the turbo to
>> higher rpms with more lag time on the bottom end.
>
>totally wrong
>because turbo exhausts are operating under higher pressures
>they are even more responsive to exhaust tuning than NA cars
>properly designed headers befroe a turbo cna make massive power gains
>
>Clive 
>
>

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Wow, I go away for a few weeks, and look at this:

    Water injection
    PWM fuel pumps

    and
    
    My favorite: blowing up Buick engines (wish I was there).


Not only that, but I've not even caught up yet.

To the AZTY question guy, Sorry 'about not answering, but
I hope that Bruce summed it up well enough.


Now, on to what I've been doing. What, with the holidays
and all, had a little free time.

Have a working Bi-Phase stepper motor controller circuit
up and running. I'll be writing this up and putting it
into the 'incoming' area. (Oh, this is for control of GM
IAC's) Uses four chips, TTL/CMOS, real simple. Run/single
step, forward/reverse, and variable speed.


Also have a better write-up on how to modify GM TBI fuel
pressure regulators. I've modified one, so I figured I'd
do a write-up on it. Most likely will help out someone in
the future (if anything, after reading this, they may opt
out and just buy one).


About the PWM fuel pumps. If anyone's interested I have a 
circuit that I've used to control R/C electric motors and
I also used it for a HO model train engine controller.

I'll see if I can find it. The actual PWM creation circuit is
simple, just a comparator and some resistors and a capacitor.
Use this to drive whatever transistor, MOSFET, IGBT is suited
to cranking on the volts to the fuel pump.



BobR.

I guess you could say I've had a cone shaped hat on for a bit...
(had to remove it whence welding on the Wife's Buick, interfered
with the helmet).

--






From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 13:41:19 1999
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Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 10:42:20 -0800 (PST)
From: andy quaas <realsquash@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: fuel pumps
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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accel makes one.  Its expensive, but they make one.

Andy


---EFISYSTEMS@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 1/2/99 9:05:10 PM Pacific Standard Time,
mpilkent@ptw.com
> writes:
> 
> << Subj:	 Re: fuel pumps
>  Date:	1/2/99 9:05:10 PM Pacific Standard Time
>  From:	mpilkent@ptw.com (Mike Pilkenton)
>  Sender:	owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>  Reply-to:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>  To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>  
>  All this talk on fuel pumps brings up a question I have had.  Where
can I
>  find an aftermarket fuel pump for FI.  All the ones I have seen are
for
>  carb. engines.  I need one that puts out about 50 psi for the 3.1L
V6 motor
>  and can be mounted outside the tank.
>  
>  Mike
>  (3.1L V6 Opel GT conversion)
>   >>
> Mallory 4060 FI   (good for approx 300hp)  or if your really making
some power
> use a 5110 FI (good for approx 1150 hp)...usually $135 and $250
> respectively.......
> -Carl Summers
> 

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 14:11:47 1999
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Subject: Re: Turbo header tuning
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 14:13:17 -0500 (EST)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <3.0.3.32.19990104120032.006cbcd8@mail.ot.centuryinter.net> from "Clarence Wood" at Jan 4, 99 12:00:32 pm
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> 
>   Clive, have thought that pre-turbo tuning would help but everyone I have spoken to has claimed minimal benefits.  Would really like to hear more on the subject. 


read Hugh McInnes book on turbos
he recommends full header systems for turbo engines

Clive 
> 
> >> Header tuning is done to help scavenge the cylinder and ensure a clean fresh
> >> charge.  Turbo charging does the same thing by increasing the pressure at
> >> the intake side.  The turbine on the exhaust side represents a restriction.
> >> If it didn't the turbine wouldn't turn!  As such, no tuning of the exhaust
> >> is going to help move the gases through the pipes any faster or better.  You
> >> could make the turbine less restrictive but this is tuning the turbo to
> >> higher rpms with more lag time on the bottom end.
> >
> >totally wrong
> >because turbo exhausts are operating under higher pressures
> >they are even more responsive to exhaust tuning than NA cars
> >properly designed headers befroe a turbo cna make massive power gains
> >

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 14:43:21 1999
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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Need H_elp with an 89 MPFI 2.8 V6 (Need MAF...)
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I had a 2.8 with a bad MAF.  Rapping on the MAF with a screw driver (don't
smash it) would cause the car to stumble at idle.  I think the car had
about 20k miles on it at the time.

With a bad MAF, I found drivability was acceptable (not great) if I simply
disconnected the MAF.  There was a MAP only prom available (search the
TSBs) for my application that could be used instead of replacing a bad
MAF. 

At 115k miles, the alternator went bad (I think the six year old battery
contributed to its death).  It was the 100 amp model.  The diode bridge
was partially visible (remove plastic cover off back of alternator case)
and the diode's package looked blistered from heat.  It ran very hot
compared to the replacement unit.

Silicone may not have been the best choice for sealing the [air] temp
sensor.  The O2 sensor may be affected.  Anyone have comments on this?

The same vehicle could also develope an unstable idle after highway
driving while sitting at a stop light for an extended period.  It turns
out the O2 sensor was lazy, but no trouble codes were set.  Replacing the
O2 sensor fixed the problem.

Chicago huh?  Is your S10 4wd? I felt fortunate to get a plane out of
there after the holidays before the snow hit.

hth,
Tom


On Mon, 4 Jan 1999, Kurek, Larry wrote:

> Guys:
> 
> I am having a slight problem with the 2.8 MPFI motor I put in my S10 in
> place of the old carb motor with the hole in the side of the block :)
> 
> I was driving home last night and it started cuting out at anything between
> off idle to about half throttle...kind of like it was running out of gas,
> but it wasn't since I JUST filled up the tank. The fuel pump is new, and is
> getting great pressure, so I don't think it is a fuel problem. However...the
> motor seemed to fix itself and run great again. No SES light either. Once I
> got home, I decided to check the obvious....coil connectors, wires, etc
> etc...all seemed fine. However, after a quick test drive, I popped the hood
> and it almost died out on me.. came back, and set an SES light...code 34,
> low MAF reading. So, I backprobed the MAF connector and all was OK, I
> checked for any loose connections and didn't see any either, so i reset the
> ECM and it seemed OK. Well, on the drive to work this morning, same damn
> thing. Again, a code 34. One of the causes for this code is a leak between
> the MAF and the throttle body. I checked this as well, and the only thing
> that MAY be a problem, is the temperature sensor bung I siliconed into the
> elbow. The silicone looks to have pulled back just a bit and there may be a
> SLIGHT opening into the elbow. Could this be enough to cause a problem? I
> can't emphasize enough how small of a leak this may be. Are these MAF
> sensors that sensitive? FWIW, I am also running an open element K&N filter,
> and it has recently gotten quite cold here (Chicago area). 
> 
> Sooo....any ideas?  How do I go about testing the MAF itself? Like I
> mentioned above...the connector checks out fine with +B, ground, and +5v. 
> 
> Does anyone have a spare MAF that they would be willing to part with? This
> is a three wire MAF out of an 89 Camaro 2.8 V6. It isn't the hot wire
> variety, but seems to use a thermistor instead?
> 
> Finally, I did note that the lights on the car dim on occasion for a few
> seconds at a time. Could this be a bad alternator? Could this cause the
> problems with the MAF? I'm stretching here guys...I don't want to get
> stranded in sub-zero temperatures in the middle of nowhere...
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Larry
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 15:12:06 1999
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>>
>> Header tuning is done to help scavenge the cylinder and ensure a clean fresh
>> charge.  Turbo charging does the same thing by increasing the pressure at
>> the intake side.  The turbine on the exhaust side represents a restriction.
>> If it didn't the turbine wouldn't turn!  As such, no tuning of the exhaust
>> is going to help move the gases through the pipes any faster or better.  You
>> could make the turbine less restrictive but this is tuning the turbo to
>> higher rpms with more lag time on the bottom end.
>
>totally wrong
>because turbo exhausts are operating under higher pressures
>they are even more responsive to exhaust tuning than NA cars
>properly designed headers befroe a turbo cna make massive power gains
>
>Clive

OK--time for my $.02!!

Clive is absolutely right. I am becoming convinced as time goes by that
tube volume is the essential factor in the design of ANY header--it appears
to me that it wants to be about 125--140% of individual cylinder
displacement. Larger diameter, and shorter for higher rev ranges, smaller
diameter and longer for lower rev ranges, but always in the stated volume
range. MAYBE slightly larger diameter for headers on a turbo, cuz the gas
in them is denser, and therefore suffers more friction loss in flowing
through a given tube size. Sound velocity in a gas (of a given molecular
weight) varies ONLY with temperature, so tubes for a turbo motor may also
want to be a bit LONGER, cuz they are HOTTER.

The tricky part with turbo headers is that any turbine, at a given mass
flow rate, will make the same power at a lower pressure ratio if the inlet
temp to it is HIGHER. And, since the outlet pressure of the turbine is
predetermined by the atmosphere and the exhaust system, lower inlet temps
to the turbo mean more back-pressure on the engine, and therefore less net
output at the same boost level. Therefore, to make turbo headers work
properly, and to really see HOW MUCH GOOD they REALLY do for an engine's
performance, you DAMN WELL HAVE TO insulate them--(we all know how much
heat tube headers throw off!!) And , if you are going to insulate the
exhaust on a turbo motor, it had damn well better either be cast out of
duriron (very high nickel cast iron) or fabricated properly (spelled TIG
welding done with a full internal argon purge) out of 321 and/or 347
stainless steel. (If you want it to last for any length of time.)

I do not think that any of us think that Hooker fabricates their headers at
this level of technology. (And I kinda doubt that they have anybody who
would have a clue where to start!) The fact that headers made the right way
out of 321 SS work, and with extremely high reliability, has been well
proven on huge radials by people like Curtiss-Wright and Pratt & Whitney.
If you do not have the resources to do it yourself, Burns Stainless, for
one, can do whatever you might want, the right way, in 321 SS, or is quite
happy to sell you the bits and pieces with which to do it yourself. BUT, it
AIN"T cheap, even just to purchase the materials!!!

Now for the more sophisticated stuff. First of all, any turbine runs more
efficiently with a STEADY inlet pressure. Any engine runs more efficiently
with tube headers--turboed or not. How to reconcile these two things?? It
is known as a pressure recovery accumulator. If you have room, (a mighty
big if) run the header tubes into a typical, properly sized
convergent-divergent collector, and THEN  run the megaphone from the
collector into an accumulator chamber which feeds the gas to the turbine,
at a fairly steady pressure. This pressure will also be distinctly higher
than the pressure which the engine "sees" at the throuat of the collector
(you are now converting the velocity energy in the exhaust gasses back into
static pressure with a reasonable degree of efficiency!)

The next place where there is a LOT of unexplored potential (and less need
for room to explore it) is at the outlet of the turbine. The gas comes out
of the turbine in a tight spiral at a velocity of about Mach .75 in most
cases. Most downpipe designs just dump it into a way bigger pipe, creating
a jump to lower velocity, turbulent flow, an extremely inefficient process.
There is a lot of room for creative thinking in fabricating a downpipe
transition piece which would convert some of this (very significant amount
of) velocity  energy in the gasses back into static pressure as the gas
enters the downpipe! Why would this help?? cuz the turbine would now "see"
a static pressure at its outlet which might even be below the atmospheric
pressure at the end  of the tailpipe!! And because , at given temperature
and mass flow conditions, turbines make power depending on the absolute
pressure ratio across them, you would get the same turbine power output
with less backpressure on the engine, and, therefore, more power for free.
YES, you would need a bigger turbine wheel and housing, cuz the DENSITY of
the gas flowing through the turbine would be lower at the now lower
pressures even though the mass flow would be the same.

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 15:46:01 1999
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From: "Gregory A. Parmer" <gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu>
To: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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On Sat, 2 Jan 1999, Steve Ravet wrote:
> Didn't someone upload the fit.zip file that went with the injector
> flowbench article from PE magazine?  I thought so, but I can't find it. 
> Anyway, if someone has it, or knows where it is on the FTP site, please
> let me know so I can help this person, and add a link in the FTP site
> index.  thanks

I had been looking for it, then someone else posted it. Grab it
from "ftp://ftp.acesag.auburn.edu/pub/users/gparmer". Included are
"fit.zip" and "fitphoto.zip". I think fitphoto may be software
John (?) used to take pictures for the magazine.

Happy Testing,
-greg


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 15:51:01 1999
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: steve ravet <Steve.Ravet@arm.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Monday, January 04, 1999 12:46 PM
> Subject: Re: Injector Duty Monitor
> 
> Yes, but after you do the zip thing.........  He mentioned pwmeter, which is
> zip,
> ya fine, unzip, and I still can't see anything, other than a drop down
> window.
> Just for grins try something with a .asm file extension, on a windows
> machine.
> Some of us don't make a living with this stuff, and hit dead ends.
>   Yes I do have the winzip, and that ain't the problem.  It's what comes
> next......

OK.  In the case of pwmeter, you get these files:

 PWMETER.C
 AT892051.H
 PWMETER.HEX
 PWMETER.PS
 PWMETER.S01
 PWMETER.TXT


pwmeter.txt is a document that tells you what everything else is

pwmeter.c is a C program, along with at892051.h.  You need a C compiler
to use these, and it needs to be specific to the device that you are
going to put the program into (looks like an Atmel microcontroller,
similar to PIC).

pwmeter.hex is a hex file.  That's the end result of compiling the C
program, and the .hex file is ready to be read into a device programmer.

pwmeter.ps is a postscript file, can be read by the program
"ghostscript" or can be sent straight to a postscript printer.  Most
likely a schematic.  

pwmeter.s01 is a schematic that could be read by Tango schematic
software, if you had it.  Since you probably don't, just print out the
postscript file instead.

With that said, the pwmeter.txt is skimpy on details.  How exactly does
this thing tell you what the pulse width is?  I don't have ghostscript
installed so I can't read the .ps file.  Georg, got any more details?

--steve

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 16:07:00 1999
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cybergate.net>
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Good info, Greg.  One question, though.  Wouldn't the sound energy in the
exhaust from a tuned system direct more energy to the exhaust turbine?
Turbines may like to have a steady flow but shouldn't additional energy
help?  I thought that was the idea behind dual scroll exhaust housings.  A
megaphone would convert velocity into pressure but the exhaust ultimately
has to speed up again (and drop pressure) to flow through the exhaust
housing.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

>snip<
>Now for the more sophisticated stuff. First of all, any turbine runs more
>efficiently with a STEADY inlet pressure. Any engine runs more efficiently
>with tube headers--turboed or not. How to reconcile these two things?? It
>is known as a pressure recovery accumulator. If you have room, (a mighty
>big if) run the header tubes into a typical, properly sized
>convergent-divergent collector, and THEN  run the megaphone from the
>collector into an accumulator chamber which feeds the gas to the turbine,
>at a fairly steady pressure. This pressure will also be distinctly higher
>than the pressure which the engine "sees" at the throuat of the collector
>(you are now converting the velocity energy in the exhaust gasses back into
>static pressure with a reasonable degree of efficiency!)
>
>Regards, Greg
>


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OK, finally got it together. I finished the schematics and
the write-up on the stepper motor control circuit. It's all
been uploaded to the 'incoming' site.

Files:

Stepdrv.txt         The what/how/why and where.
StepDrv1.gif        Image, page 1 of schematics
StepDrv2.gif        Image, page 2 of schematics


Now, before anybody jumps up and down about the hand
drawn schematics, well, I'm a software guy. I almost
had to use a crayon ;) {the sharpest nearby items are
the corners on my keyboard}.

The purpose of this circuit/project is to be able to
control the IAC by itself. That is, you can extend or
retract the pintle at will. This is a stand-alone
controller.

Have fun, any questions, I'll be here for awhile. (At
least 'til next vacation/holiday).


BobR.

Who put silly-putty on the point of his cone shaped
hat 'lest I cut myself.


--



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 16:28:50 1999
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To: "Gregory A. Parmer" <gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu>,
        <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Cc: "Steve Ravet" <steve.ravet@arm.com>
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Thanks Greg and Steve,  I have it now and will look it over to see if it
may help me. Thankyou again. Randy
  

----------
> From: Gregory A. Parmer <gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Cc: Steve Ravet <steve.ravet@arm.com>; calley@ionet.net
> Subject: Re: [Fwd: EFI software]
> Date: Monday, January 04, 1999 12:45 PM
> 
> 
> On Sat, 2 Jan 1999, Steve Ravet wrote:
> > Didn't someone upload the fit.zip file that went with the injector
> > flowbench article from PE magazine?  I thought so, but I can't find it.

> > Anyway, if someone has it, or knows where it is on the FTP site, please
> > let me know so I can help this person, and add a link in the FTP site
> > index.  thanks
> 
> I had been looking for it, then someone else posted it. Grab it
> from "ftp://ftp.acesag.auburn.edu/pub/users/gparmer". Included are
> "fit.zip" and "fitphoto.zip". I think fitphoto may be software
> John (?) used to take pictures for the magazine.
> 
> Happy Testing,
> -greg
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 17:01:22 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Injector Duty Monitor
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-----Original Message-----
From: steve ravet <Steve.Ravet@arm.com>
To: diy_efi <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, January 04, 1999 4:01 PM
Subject: Re: Injector Duty Monitor

So it's still a matter of having the secret decoder ring to be able to use
it.
Bruce


>
> PWMETER.C
> AT892051.H
> PWMETER.HEX
> PWMETER.PS
> PWMETER.S01
> PWMETER.TXT
>
>
>pwmeter.txt is a document that tells you what everything else is
>
>pwmeter.c is a C program, along with at892051.h.  You need a C compiler
>to use these, and it needs to be specific to the device that you are
>going to put the program into (looks like an Atmel microcontroller,
>similar to PIC).
>
>pwmeter.hex is a hex file.  That's the end result of compiling the C
>program, and the .hex file is ready to be read into a device programmer.
>
>pwmeter.ps is a postscript file, can be read by the program
>"ghostscript" or can be sent straight to a postscript printer.  Most
>likely a schematic.
>
>pwmeter.s01 is a schematic that could be read by Tango schematic
>software, if you had it.  Since you probably don't, just print out the
>postscript file instead.
>
>With that said, the pwmeter.txt is skimpy on details.  How exactly does
>this thing tell you what the pulse width is?  I don't have ghostscript
>installed so I can't read the .ps file.  Georg, got any more details?
>
>--steve
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 17:25:27 1999
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From: mitcho <mitcho@netcom.com>
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At 02:19 PM 1/3/99 -0600, Steve Ravet wrote:

>Also, you may want to look at the TPI/TBI engine swapping manual from
>Jags that run (www.jagsthatrun.com)  It's aimed at putting EFI engines
>into older non-EFI cars but it has some good words on wiring.

The "Chevrolet TPI & TBI Engine Swapping" book advertised at Steve Smith
Autosports (http://www.ssapubl.com/prod06a.html) Jerry is talking about
*is* the manual mentioned above by Mike Knell of Jags That Run.  It is also
available from Summit and no doubt other folks.

It is an excellent book for someone who has never done this sort of thing
before.  My own plans include fuel injection for a variety of sixties V8
Chevrolets as well as a basic V8 conversion of a Jaguar XJ-6 Series I.

At the risk of making him hate me, I'll mention that Mike Knell's email
address is available at the JTR Webpage, and he does personally answer his
email.  For all I know he's a member of this mailing list.


Mitch

--------------------------------------------------------------------
Mitch Barrie's Chevelles:  http://www.employees.org/~ozyman/carstuff
Southern California Chevelle Caminos: http://www.chevelles.net/scccc


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 17:51:39 1999
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From: "Gregory A. Parmer" <gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Injector Duty Monitor
In-Reply-To: <19990104073832.9179.qmail@hotmail.com>
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On Sun, 3 Jan 1999, Khoo Teck-Khoon wrote:
> I've searched the archives but could not find anything relevant. I am 
> interested to make my own injector duty monitor..sort of like the 
> air/fuel ratio..Can this be done? I am not very familiar with 

For a relative sort of deal, see 
http://sura1.jlab.org/~bowling/fieye.html
It is a *very* simple idea.

For more accurate results, an analog voltmeter connected to the
ECM side of the injector should give reasonable data...as in 12v=0% 
duty cycle, 0v=100% duty cycle.

-greg


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 17:53:31 1999
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Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 16:54:58 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Clarence Wood <clarencewood@centuryinter.net>
Subject: Re: IAC controller circuit
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  Wonderful!  But, how do I access the 'incoming' site?

At 04:03 PM 1/4/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
>
>OK, finally got it together. I finished the schematics and
>the write-up on the stepper motor control circuit. It's all
>been uploaded to the 'incoming' site.
>
>Files:
>
>Stepdrv.txt         The what/how/why and where.
>StepDrv1.gif        Image, page 1 of schematics
>StepDrv2.gif        Image, page 2 of schematics
>
>
>Now, before anybody jumps up and down about the hand
>drawn schematics, well, I'm a software guy. I almost
>had to use a crayon ;) {the sharpest nearby items are
>the corners on my keyboard}.
>
>The purpose of this circuit/project is to be able to
>control the IAC by itself. That is, you can extend or
>retract the pintle at will. This is a stand-alone
>controller.
>
>Have fun, any questions, I'll be here for awhile. (At
>least 'til next vacation/holiday).
>
>
>BobR.
>
>Who put silly-putty on the point of his cone shaped
>hat 'lest I cut myself.
>
>
>--
>
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 18:09:04 1999
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Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 18:08:55 -0500
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From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Injector Duty Monitor
In-Reply-To: <Pine.SO4.4.02A.9901041634180.19599-100000@grover.acesag.au
 burn.edu>
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>http://sura1.jlab.org/~bowling/fieye.html
>It is a *very* simple idea.

Very simple idea, however I'd buffer the LED using a CMOS 4049 inverter or
possibly a 4011 quad nand wired as an inverter, as it accomplishes the same
thing, but doesn't allow the LED to draw ANY current off the injector.
Prolly wouldn't make a difference, but why waste current :)

Just a thought.

As far as using a meter, obviously an analog meter would be better, as the
response to things would be slower than a digital, even though digital
meters display every 1/4 or 1/8 of a second.  Just something about a needle
that I still like :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
1973 Lincoln Continental (460cid)
1975 Dodge D200 3/4 ton Club Cab
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 18:28:16 1999
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Gary Derian wrote---

Wouldn't the sound energy in the exhaust from a tuned system direct more
energy to the exhaust turbine?
>Turbines may like to have a steady flow but shouldn't additional energy
>help?

Additional energy is always good--I think the real question here is how
good you can make your convergent-divergent collector nozzle and how good
you  can make the convergent nozzle from the accumulator to the turbine--if
the gain in turbine efficiency from having a steady feed pressure and
velocity exceeds the nozzle losses, you will have won, if not, converging
the collector directly into the turbine nozzle might well do better.

Somehow, I think that building some stuff, and instrumenting it properly,
and testing it would be a whole lot easier than trying to do the calcs!!!

 I thought that was the idea behind dual scroll exhaust housings.

It kind of is, but I think the idea of the split housings is even more to
prevent interference between exhaust pulses from adjacent cylinders in the
firing order as they are fed into the turbine nozzle(s).

A megaphone would convert velocity into pressure but the exhaust ultimately
>has to speed up again (and drop pressure) to flow through the exhaust
>housing.

It sure does--but what calcs I HAVE done indicate that the gas velocity
coming out of the turbine feed nozzle(s) needs to about match the velocity
of the tips of the turbine blades for decent turbine efficiency to
happen--this velocity is again about Mach .75  AVERAGE in a typical case.
Get too much pulsation at this point, and you will begin to get Mach 1
(choked) flow--ain't no more gas gonna go through the nozzle--so things
will get seriously constipated during part of the pulse, and screw up the
header tuning. At Mach .75, it wouldn't really take much pulsation at all
to produce an increase in back pressure, either, even if you are not
pulsing it strongly enough to choke it.

Which is kinda why I think smoothing the flow out might be a net win, even
though there are losses through two more nozzles to make up for.

DO NOT misunderstand me, these wanderings are theoretical conjecture at
best--if I shut up and build something, test it, and it proves out, then I
would (and will!) be more forceful about it!
>
Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 18:37:25 1999
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@idirect.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Injector Duty Monitor
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 18:36:27 -0800
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Another thought..............how about an old "surplus" oscilloscope hooked
up to the injector circuit.  This would provide a pretty good
visual/graphical representation of duty cycle and phasing?

Various companies also manufacture "plug-n-play" notebook oriented
automotive oscilloscope modules.

Have fun;
Walt.



-----Original Message-----
From: Gregory A. Parmer <gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, January 04, 1999 3:25 PM
Subject: Re: Injector Duty Monitor


>
>On Sun, 3 Jan 1999, Khoo Teck-Khoon wrote:
>> I've searched the archives but could not find anything relevant. I am
>> interested to make my own injector duty monitor..sort of like the
>> air/fuel ratio..Can this be done? I am not very familiar with
>
>For a relative sort of deal, see
>http://sura1.jlab.org/~bowling/fieye.html
>It is a *very* simple idea.
>
>For more accurate results, an analog voltmeter connected to the
>ECM side of the injector should give reasonable data...as in 12v=0%
>duty cycle, 0v=100% duty cycle.
>
>-greg
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 19:01:31 1999
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To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Wayne Blair <wayneb@foxboro.com.au>
Subject: 460 EFI
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Could any of you send me a picture/image (or link to) of any factory (or
after market) EFI Intakes for 460/429 engines.

thanks



<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< bye >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
wayne
[Brisbane Australia]

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 19:13:07 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: IAC controller circuit
References: <3.0.3.32.19990104165458.006cf5a0@mail.ot.centuryinter.net>
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ftp://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/incoming

Clarence Wood wrote:
> 
>   Wonderful!  But, how do I access the 'incoming' site?
> 
> At 04:03 PM 1/4/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >OK, finally got it together. I finished the schematics and
> >the write-up on the stepper motor control circuit. It's all
> >been uploaded to the 'incoming' site.
> >
> >Files:
> >
> >Stepdrv.txt         The what/how/why and where.
> >StepDrv1.gif        Image, page 1 of schematics
> >StepDrv2.gif        Image, page 2 of schematics
> >
> >
> >Now, before anybody jumps up and down about the hand
> >drawn schematics, well, I'm a software guy. I almost
> >had to use a crayon ;) {the sharpest nearby items are
> >the corners on my keyboard}.
> >
> >The purpose of this circuit/project is to be able to
> >control the IAC by itself. That is, you can extend or
> >retract the pintle at will. This is a stand-alone
> >controller.
> >
> >Have fun, any questions, I'll be here for awhile. (At
> >least 'til next vacation/holiday).
> >
> >
> >BobR.
> >
> >Who put silly-putty on the point of his cone shaped
> >hat 'lest I cut myself.
> >
> >
> >--
> >
> >
> >

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 19:53:24 1999
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From: "Khoo Teck-Khoon" <tkkhoo@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Injector Duty Monitor
Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 16:52:51 PST
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>Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 16:51:37 -0600 (CST)
>From: "Gregory A. Parmer" <gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject: Re: Injector Duty Monitor
>
>
>For a relative sort of deal, see 
>http://sura1.jlab.org/~bowling/fieye.html
>It is a *very* simple idea.
>
>For more accurate results, an analog voltmeter connected to the
>ECM side of the injector should give reasonable data...as in 12v=0% 
>duty cycle, 0v=100% duty cycle.
>
>-greg
>

I've seen the diagram and still confused somewhat. Anyway, is it 
possible to wire a LED to the ECU side of the injector wire and just 
look at the amount of time the LED is lighted. Perhaps, a continuous on 
would indicate 100% injector duty or is it the other way? Would this 
load the circuit to the injectors as I only know the pin for injector 
no. 1 on the ECU?

Regards

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 20:05:08 1999
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread
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Hi again--

One more thing about insulating headers--

Already said the headers need to be made out of 321 SS if you are gonna
insulate them and want them to live for any length of time.

Another aspect of this is that once you have insulated the header tubes,
obviously, they will get hotter, and therefore experience a bunch more heat
expansion than uninsulated header tubes do. And stainless has a somewhat
higher coefficient of expansion than plain carbon steel, so you will be
fighting a double whammy with insulated 321 SS headers in terms of tube
growth from cold engine to fully hot, sustained WOT header tube operating
conditions.

Specifically, you had better allow for about .080" of growth in length per
foot of tube length. If you do not allow for it, this is MORE than enough
growth to cause things to disassemble themselves!!! (NASTY ways of doing
it, too, like breaking bolts off at the head, breaking flanges off of the
head, breaking turbine housings, breaking turbo mounting brackets, etc.!!
The 321 SS is tough, stiff, and strong enough at high temps, even in only
16 or 18 gauge thickness, to vent its wrath at captivity on almost anything
else foolish enough to be in its way!!

Also, cuz of the differential in thermal expansion between stainless and
plain steel and/or iron, the older boys have told me that the best plan is
to fab the header flanges out of carbon steel (min. 3/8" thick, I would be
inclined more toward 7/16" or 1/2"). They have also told me that the wire
of choice for welding the 321 SS tubing to the carbon flanges is 308 SS.
(347 wire for welding 321 tube to 321 tube.) These same older boys did not
mention what to use for header flanges meant to mate with them thar
new-fangled aluminium heads----

Now, as for the expansion joints that you are almost bound to need to make
the fool things work without breakin' sumthin':

Any creative thoughts on this subject are more than welcome!

Best idea I have come up with, so far, is to use a regular tube into the
second tube swedged larger slip joint, just like on stock exhaust pipe
joints--but no clamp, and be sure that the inner tube sticking into the
swedged part of the other tube is NOT QUITE bottomed  (1/8" clear end
play??) in the final assembly position.  Then weld a rolled bellows looking
device on over the outside of the slip joint to seal it. Such bellows are
available (IN 321 SS!!) in  an innumerable variety of appropriate sizes and
thicknesses (and with plain tube ends) from, for one,  an outfit by the
name of Hyspan.

This is all obviously a LOT of effort to get more out of a motor, but
hey--why do we spend our time here if not for just that reason???

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 20:23:36 1999
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From: Marc Piccioni <mpiccioni@attcanada.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Need H_elp with an 89 MPFI 2.8 V6 (Need MAF...)
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 18:17:57 -0700
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You maybe experiencing throttle blade icing. If the problem reoccurs remove 
the air filter and check for ice buildup. In the winter it's usually a good 
idea to run the stock air cleaner with the hot air pipe going to the 
exhaust manifold.

----------
From: 	Kurek, Larry[SMTP:lkurek@anl.gov]
Sent: 	January 4, 1999 9:08 AM
To: 	'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'
Subject: 	Need H_elp with an 89 MPFI 2.8 V6 (Need MAF...)

Guys:

I am having a slight problem with the 2.8 MPFI motor I put in my S10 in
place of the old carb motor with the hole in the side of the block :)

I was driving home last night and it started cuting out at anything between
off idle to about half throttle...kind of like it was running out of gas,
but it wasn't since I JUST filled up the tank. The fuel pump is new, and is
getting great pressure, so I don't think it is a fuel problem. 
However...the
motor seemed to fix itself and run great again. No SES light either. Once I
got home, I decided to check the obvious....coil connectors, wires, etc
etc...all seemed fine. However, after a quick test drive, I popped the hood
and it almost died out on me.. came back, and set an SES light...code 34,
low MAF reading. So, I backprobed the MAF connector and all was OK, I
checked for any loose connections and didn't see any either, so i reset the
ECM and it seemed OK. Well, on the drive to work this morning, same damn
thing. Again, a code 34. One of the causes for this code is a leak between
the MAF and the throttle body. I checked this as well, and the only thing
that MAY be a problem, is the temperature sensor bung I siliconed into the
elbow. The silicone looks to have pulled back just a bit and there may be a
SLIGHT opening into the elbow. Could this be enough to cause a problem? I
can't emphasize enough how small of a leak this may be. Are these MAF
sensors that sensitive? FWIW, I am also running an open element K&N filter,
and it has recently gotten quite cold here (Chicago area).

Sooo....any ideas?  How do I go about testing the MAF itself? Like I
mentioned above...the connector checks out fine with +B, ground, and +5v.

Does anyone have a spare MAF that they would be willing to part with? This
is a three wire MAF out of an 89 Camaro 2.8 V6. It isn't the hot wire
variety, but seems to use a thermistor instead?

Finally, I did note that the lights on the car dim on occasion for a few
seconds at a time. Could this be a bad alternator? Could this cause the
problems with the MAF? I'm stretching here guys...I don't want to get
stranded in sub-zero temperatures in the middle of nowhere...

Thanks!


Larry



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M-'!ADFQ"GW.FI'UOTFT$`%!R"X 3P1Z@/_U)/$8+@"5"<8,F`%C@+P'_PG=O
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M04CQ:&;_5Y"PH2919K&L9MG@(C&<T_LF\$0`+:C@R!&:R00@5.7=S(!D7.)2
MH:7P=Z'22/'G23QD@&0Q<R%)/ J%-)/W23]*3A5B,A*P+N8*A1;!`@#G4 ,`
M$! ``````P`1$ ````! ``<P`%*PZ4@XO@% ``@P`%*PZ4@XO@$>`#T``0``
/``4```!213H@`````'E0
`
end


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 20:47:35 1999
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From: Christian Hack <christianh@edmi.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Injector Duty Monitor
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 11:49:50 +1000
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For those who can't view the pwmeter.ps file i've put a GIF of the
schematic in /incoming for everyone

ftp://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/incoming/pwmeter.gif

It's pretty big though. If that still causes probs let me know and I'll
try some other tricks. The main problem is that it will difficult to read the text
if I decrease the resolution too much. A decent GIF viewer should let you scale
and view it yourself.

Christian Hack
christianh@edmi.com.au
EDMI Pty Ltd
Ph : (07) 3888 3066
FAX : (07) 3888 3583



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 21:07:27 1999
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Cc: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 21:47:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread
Message-ID: <19990104.220633.4734.7.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
References: <00d001be37fc$8a4a1630$657cbdc0@dilbert.nordson.com>
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From: cosmic.ray@juno.com (Raymond C Drouillard)
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On Mon, 4 Jan 1999 11:05:28 -0500 "Gary Derian" <gderian@cybergate.net>
writes:
>I think we agree about flywheel effects.  My point is that a heavy
flywheel
>will smooth out engine torque variation when the clutch is engaged but
can
>increase shock loads when starting out, a two edged sword.  My 
>preference is
>to have as light a flywheel as I can stand for driveability.
>
>Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

An engine with more cylinders will have a smoother output torque.  V8s
tend to be smooth.  V12s are even smoother (though I have to admit that I
don't know this by experience - yet).

Ray

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 21:08:42 1999
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Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 21:43:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Nology)
Message-ID: <19990104.220633.4734.6.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
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>Because an LCD panel does not consitute a legal number plate. If you get
>pulled over for anything, I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to work out
>something funny is happening. I very much doubt an LCD panel showing the
>numbers would be convincing. Also the welding mask LCD panels turn
opaque 
>entirely. You would need to obtain an LCD panel that has individual
>sections in it to make up the differnet numbers and letters. 
>In Australia you are allowed to have clear plastic number plate covers,
>hence an LCD panel can be made to look like one of those.
>
>Cheers, Mos.

How clear does it have to be?  Could it be designed similar to a HUD, or
perhaps have diffraction grating etched in?  It would be close to
invisible to the naked eye.

Better yet, how about etching or molding a very small corner reflector
pattern into the side closest to the plate?  This would cause a glare to
be reflected back at any strong light source (flash).

Standard reflectors, such as you see on bicycles, next to the freeway,
and on the back of cars use a corner reflector pattern.  That's what the
triangular pyramid pattern is for.

Totally passive - how's that for elegant?


Ray Drouillard

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 21:08:46 1999
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Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 21:16:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread
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>AWD is really great for low traction conditions and year-round driving.
>Rear wheel drive with a mid engine and sticky tires should be nearly as
good
>on dry pavement with way less complexity.  How and where do you drive?

If that's the case, why does the Lambroghini use AWD?

AWD is useful when traction is a problem.  This could mean moderate
speeds with a slippery surface, or high speeds and lateral acceleration
on a sticky surface.  It's just another way to have a bigger performance
envelope to push.

The main advantage of a mid engine is that the mass is near the center of
rotation when the vehicle is going around a corner.  This makes it more
maneuverable.  It also makes it easier to spin out.  Performance comes
with a price :)

Yes, it helps the designer achieve 50/50 weight distribution, but there
are other ways of doing it.  The Corvette engineers did it by putting the
engine in the front and the transmission in the back.

Another advantage of AWD is that all four wheels are pulling right from
the start.  With a 50/50 weight distribution, you will have twice the
ability to apply force to the pavement from a dead stop.  I know that
accelerating adds down force to the back wheels and removes it from the
front wheels, but AWD allows a forward force equal to the weight of the
car * the coefficient of friction, rather than some fraction of the
weight * the CF.

I know that dragsters are RWD, but that is a specialized application. 
Typically, the front wheels bear very little weight or lift right off the
ground.  Also, some of the acceleration force is used to add downward
force to the rear wheels.  Draw a vector diagram sometime if you have a
hard time imagining this :)

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 21:25:45 1999
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From: Jemison Richard <JemisonR@tce.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Injector Duty Monitor
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 21:25:39 -0500 
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Thank you, thank you!

Rick

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Christian Hack [SMTP:christianh@edmi.com.au]
> Sent:	Monday, January 04, 1999 8:50 PM
> To:	'diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu'
> Subject:	Re: Injector Duty Monitor
> 
> For those who can't view the pwmeter.ps file i've put a GIF of the
> schematic in /incoming for everyone
> 
> ftp://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/incoming/pwmeter.gif
> 
> It's pretty big though. If that still causes probs let me know and I'll
> try some other tricks. The main problem is that it will difficult to read
> the text
> if I decrease the resolution too much. A decent GIF viewer should let you
> scale
> and view it yourself.
> 
> Christian Hack
> christianh@edmi.com.au
> EDMI Pty Ltd
> Ph : (07) 3888 3066
> FAX : (07) 3888 3583
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 21:37:36 1999
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From: "West, David" <djwest@subcorp.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Old Thread - pulse width
Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 12:07:51 +0930
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Hello all and happy new year.

To all the people that had input on the pulse width and broken turbo 
discussion - thanks.

I finally fixed the car - out of the old 4 cylinder and back into the 
turbo - wahooo

I found the problem to be a faulty hot wire flow meter.

Unfortunately, I tested the flow meter on the bench and it was within 
GM Spec at the start of the investigation. This is also why the ECCM 
didn't flag it as a problem.

When I re-visited the flow meter, after checking everything else under 
the sun,  I found the dynamic spec (using vacuum cleaner) to be within 
spec but on the upper limit.

I then sourced a new meter and it fixed the problem after clearing a 
shit load of fuel out of the exhaust system.

I suppose the moral of this story is:

'Just because a component is within spec doesn't mean that it works 
correctly.'

Bye for now

David West







From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 21:53:25 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Injector Duty Monitor
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 21:56:29 -0500
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-----Original Message-----
From: Christian Hack <christianh@edmi.com.au>
To: 'diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, January 04, 1999 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: Injector Duty Monitor

I really must be losing it, I can't find it.  If someone sees it please send
it to me,
Bruce


>For those who can't view the pwmeter.ps file i've put a GIF of the
>schematic in /incoming for everyone
>
>ftp://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/incoming/pwmeter.gif
>
>It's pretty big though. If that still causes probs let me know and I'll
>try some other tricks. The main problem is that it will difficult to read
the text
>if I decrease the resolution too much. A decent GIF viewer should let you
scale
>and view it yourself.
>
>Christian Hack
>christianh@edmi.com.au
>EDMI Pty Ltd
>Ph : (07) 3888 3066
>FAX : (07) 3888 3583
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 22:05:24 1999
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From: "Mike Pilkenton" <mpilkent@ptw.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: fuel pumps
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 19:01:30 -0800
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Thanks everyone for the leads.  Got some research to do at the parts
counter.

Mike
(3.1L V6 Opel GT conversion)



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Raymond C Drouillard wrote:
> 
> >AWD is really great for low traction conditions and year-round driving.
> >Rear wheel drive with a mid engine and sticky tires should be nearly as
> good
> >on dry pavement with way less complexity.  How and where do you drive?
> 
> If that's the case, why does the Lambroghini use AWD?

For all the obvious reasons.  Last time I looked at them (little joke
ther) AWD was optional though.  There are plenty of people who prefer
the  more direct FEEL and pointability of RWD to the stability and
real-world traction of AWD.
   RWD has the potential for a bit more fun, but AWD is harder to lose
control of.  All depends on what you want to do with your car.

Just my two cents

Aaron
ICQ # 27386985

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 22:21:52 1999
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Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 22:15:58 EST
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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In a message dated 12/30/98 8:23:53 AM Pacific Standard Time, CEIJR@aol.com
writes:

<< I have encountered intermittent problems with an Electromotive TEC II in a
 couple of instances. Each time, the ECU has completely lost its place and
shut
 down because of spark wire interference with the pickup lead from the crank
 trigger. After being sure that installation gives maximum separation, the
only
 problems have been with "low resistance" wires. Best results have been with
 street rf suppression wires, where the ECU has been rock solid. It is
 predicted that those won't last as long as some others, but they have worked
 better than more expensive spiral wound, etc. 
 												Charlie Iliff >>
Electromotive has a new pickup to correct this problem. 
Ken

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 22:38:35 1999
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Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999 05:34:18 +0200
From: John Andrianakis <John.Andrian@usa.net>
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Khoo Teck-Khoon wrote:
> 
> I've searched the archives but could not find anything relevant. I am
> interested to make my own injector duty monitor..sort of like the
> air/fuel ratio..Can this be done? I am not very familiar with
> electronics, but I've seen similar products. Therefore, I hope that
> anyone of you super geniuses can help me. In Malaysia, I couldn't find
> such a product. And to import it in would cost me an arm and leg due to
> the import duties. Thank you.
> 
> Regards
> tkkhoo@hotmail.com
> 

You can find an injector duty cycle monitor with schematic at
http://sura1.jlab.org/~bowling/pwmeasure.html

Cheers
John Andrianakis


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  4 22:43:36 1999
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Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 21:44:55 -0600
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