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From: Stuart Bunning <stuart@kenelec.com.au>
Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
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Sounds Good But wouldn't this only work for OPEN LOOP mode?? 

Once you nail it of your car is cold and hasn't enable closed loop mode even
if the ECU still generated BLM's at WOT or cruise when cold based on O2
sencor voltage it doesn't alter fueling to try to stay at 14.7:1 anyway. or
am i wrong ????



>What about a control box which would take a UEGO signal, and perform an
>appropriate transform equation, and then export the resultant signal to an
>output port which one could connect to the O2 sensor pin of an OEM  MAP
>computer.    The goal would be to make an artificial setpoint (say 11.5:1
>A/F ratio) appear to the OEM computer as stoich.  If this were possible,
>then one could use the OEM computer to generate BLM's and iteratively (read
>this as safely) reach the perfect "MAP" while driving, or while on a chassis
>dyno.  Imagine, in one afternoon, you could do the work of several days.
>This would even help the normally aspirated guys.
>


Best Regards,

STUART BUNNING
SALES ENGINEER
KENELEC PTY LTD

23-25 REDLAND DRIVE
MITCHAM VICTORIA 3132
AUSTRALIA

PHONE:  61 3 9873 1022
FAX:    61 3 9873 0200
EMAIL:  stuart@kenelec.com.au
WEB:    http://www.kenelec.com.au/


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 02:29:01 1999
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WHAT OTHER LIST...  FEED ME. FEEEEEEEEEED ME 

At 06:21 PM 31/1/99 -0500, you wrote:
>On another list it was mentioned some of the blokes in Oz may have
>compared some IR Carb'd stuff to Plenum, EFI, using maybe even the
>same size runners.  Was curious if anyone around here was involved,
>or know directly what the results were....
>Cheers
>Bruce        
>
>


Best Regards,

STUART BUNNING
SALES ENGINEER
KENELEC PTY LTD

23-25 REDLAND DRIVE
MITCHAM VICTORIA 3132
AUSTRALIA

PHONE:  61 3 9873 1022
FAX:    61 3 9873 0200
EMAIL:  stuart@kenelec.com.au
WEB:    http://www.kenelec.com.au/


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 02:53:42 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Stuart Bunning <stuart@kenelec.com.au>
Subject: Re: Tweak your Delco's boys!!!!.
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As far as I know the KALMAKER will work in nearly all DELCO ecu in Australia
manufactured up intil about 1996 except the latest model cars the use the
newer generation ECU and MAF instead of MAP.

1227277,1227808,16183082 and 16206305 and the 16176424 PCM are about all the
p/n's
I know that will run KALMAKER 

Apart from the first two the 277 and 808 that need a extra chip installed to
enable the 8192 baud
ALDL they are all basically the same UNIT inside if you remove the cover as
the pinout is identical and memcal's can be swapped between them all except
PCM to ECM. 

The USA equivivent to the 808 is i believe the 1227165 (165) But I have also
plugged BIN's
from USA that I found into my bench ECU and they worked fine so I assume the
P4 ecu has
various partnumbers throught the world and KALMAKER should work perfectly on
the 165 at least.

What ECU does the 88 IROC with 350TPI have on it.


>>>
>>>The boys at KALMAKER are very switched on. But they may have zero
experience in the USA
>>>stuff...
>>>
>>>
>>>sorry, this is not possible. It is designed to work with a Holden Delco
>>>ECM...


Best Regards,

STUART BUNNING
SALES ENGINEER
KENELEC PTY LTD

23-25 REDLAND DRIVE
MITCHAM VICTORIA 3132
AUSTRALIA

PHONE:  61 3 9873 1022
FAX:    61 3 9873 0200
EMAIL:  stuart@kenelec.com.au
WEB:    http://www.kenelec.com.au/


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 05:26:45 1999
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From: "paul" <gem@alphalink.com.au>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 21:09:58 +1100
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Hi all,
        I checked out the motec site (autronics also sell one) but these
are too expensive for me .That is why I was hoping one could be built (even
as a kit) at a fraction of the cost.Motecs unit is just right with the
screen and sensor.
Some of us race people are on tight budgets!
PAUL

----------
> From: Ross Myers <ponty@axis.jeack.com.au>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff
> Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 1:27 PM
> 
> 
> 
> >Hi all,
> >        Any idea how much the EGOR would cost?
> >        In another message someone mentioned building something for
under
> >$200 .Would this be a wide range sensor and viewed on an LCD screen?
Could
> >a PIC be used to read the info and send it to the screen?
> >PAUL
> 
> 
> Just to add my bit, I know Motec sells a wide band monitoring device for
> over $1000, it also uses a 68332 Micro!!!, go here to view -
> http://www.motec.com.au/lambda.htm
> 
> Regards
> 
> Ross Myers
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 06:10:03 1999
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 06:25:14 1999
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Subject: Re: Tweak your Delco's boys!!!!.
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I spoke to the lads from efi direct at the summer nats last month about
kalmaker......well the bloke i spoke to reckons he or should i say they could
make kalmaker run on the holden stuff only but coul change the base program to
what ever they wanted....be it 1 or 2 bar boost or have exter I/O lines .......so
if this is the case one would think that they could make it run on the USA stuff
eh!! ....oh yeh ....you need lots of $$$$$$$ to get it running and then add extra
every time you want to do another car.....if you just burn a eprom of the file
then the car cuts out after a given time .....cute eh!!! (NO!)

Justin

Andrew Choset wrote:

> I became very interested in this when I saw the website, so I proceeded to
> e-mail the manufacturer, in order to find out if I could make use of the
> product in my 88 IROC with 350TPI.  Unfortunately, here's the reply I
> received:
>
> >sorry, this is not possible. It is designed to work with a Holden Delco
> ECM...
>
> >Cheers
>
> >Brad--
> >The Toy Shop Automotive Boutique
> >EFI DIRECT Pty Ltd
> >Technology  ~  Excellence
> >The Home of KalMaker Software
>
> Is this the case?  I'd appreciate any insight into the matter.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Andrew Choset
>
> >>  Most of the Aussies on the list will know about this company, but for the
> >>  other folks who don't they have some nice stuff.
> >>
> >>  http://www.efidirect.com.au/kalmakermenu.htm
> >>
> >




From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 06:35:56 1999
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yeh keep the address comming my way and i will dig out a hand full....

Justin

ECMnut@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 1/29/99 5:30:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> EFISYSTEMS@aol.com writes:
>
> >      While we're on the memcal subject....I am in need of approx 30 blue
> >  memcal covers....(I had some meet an unfortunate death) Does anyone know
> > where
> >  to buy these or does anyone have some to sell??????Thanks,
>
> Carl, don't say "buy", the wrong people get excited.. 8~)
> gimme a snail mail address offline.. I have 2 or 3..
> Maybe others have some....?
> MIke V




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FUELTRONICS also sell them

OZ! 0883632199.......cant think of URL .....getting late!
Justin!

paul wrote:

> Hi all,
>         I checked out the motec site (autronics also sell one) but these
> are too expensive for me .That is why I was hoping one could be built (even
> as a kit) at a fraction of the cost.Motecs unit is just right with the
> screen and sensor.
> Some of us race people are on tight budgets!
> PAUL
>
> ----------
> > From: Ross Myers <ponty@axis.jeack.com.au>
> > To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> > Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff
> > Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 1:27 PM
> >
> >
> >
> > >Hi all,
> > >        Any idea how much the EGOR would cost?
> > >        In another message someone mentioned building something for
> under
> > >$200 .Would this be a wide range sensor and viewed on an LCD screen?
> Could
> > >a PIC be used to read the info and send it to the screen?
> > >PAUL
> >
> >
> > Just to add my bit, I know Motec sells a wide band monitoring device for
> > over $1000, it also uses a 68332 Micro!!!, go here to view -
> > http://www.motec.com.au/lambda.htm
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Ross Myers
> >
> >




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Subject: Re: Tweak your Delco's boys!!!!.
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-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Choset <choset@cornell.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 2:11 AM
Subject: Re: Tweak your Delco's boys!!!!.

With some wiring changes, ie converting over to MAP.  You would have an
808.  The 165 has the "other chip".  While more clumbersome, a good editiong
program, and emulator get you there also.
Cheers
Bruce


>I became very interested in this when I saw the website, so I proceeded to
>e-mail the manufacturer, in order to find out if I could make use of the
>product in my 88 IROC with 350TPI.  Unfortunately, here's the reply I
>received:
>
>>sorry, this is not possible. It is designed to work with a Holden Delco
>ECM...
>
>>Cheers
>
>>Brad--
>>The Toy Shop Automotive Boutique
>>EFI DIRECT Pty Ltd
>>Technology  ~  Excellence
>>The Home of KalMaker Software
>
>Is this the case?  I'd appreciate any insight into the matter.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Andrew Choset
>
>
>
>
>
>>>  Most of the Aussies on the list will know about this company, but for
the
>>>  other folks who don't they have some nice stuff.
>>>
>>>  http://www.efidirect.com.au/kalmakermenu.htm
>>>
>>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 08:45:08 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 08:48:19 -0500
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-----Original Message-----
From: Walter Sherwin <wsherwin@idirect.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, January 31, 1999 9:13 PM
Subject: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)

This idea, just universally raises the entire table.  Seldon is what is
needed.
Playing with the coolant temp/MAT, and MAP signals all do the same thing.
There ain't no short cuts, reprogramming done right, takes time.
Bruce


>Sounds like there is a lot of pent up UEGO talent out there.  Here is an
>idea for a product that about half of us could really use right now  (I'd
>buy two if I could find such an animal).   Picture
>this........................................................you are working
>on a GM style MAP based system, that is to be converted to artificial
>aspiration.  Perhaps it was originally artificially aspirated, or perhaps
it
>was not.   Once the basic control "system" is in place, you and I are still
>faced with the challenge of remappping the open loop VE tables.   Remapping
>the VE's can be done labouriously, through data logging, and post hex
>editing.
>
>What about a control box which would take a UEGO signal, and perform an
>appropriate transform equation, and then export the resultant signal to an
>output port which one could connect to the O2 sensor pin of an OEM  MAP
>computer.    The goal would be to make an artificial setpoint (say 11.5:1
>A/F ratio) appear to the OEM computer as stoich.  If this were possible,
>then one could use the OEM computer to generate BLM's and iteratively (read
>this as safely) reach the perfect "MAP" while driving, or while on a
chassis
>dyno.  Imagine, in one afternoon, you could do the work of several days.
>This would even help the normally aspirated guys.
>
>Just food for thought.  If anyone comes up with one of these (or knows
where
>I can find one)  then let me know, please.
>
>
>
>Thanks;
>Walt.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 9:39 PM
>Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff
>
>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Raymond C Drouillard <cosmic.ray@juno.com>
>>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>>Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 11:39 PM
>>Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff
>>
>>Gee, sounds so easy.  Hmm, care to whip up a ION?.
>>I certainly hope you weren't making light of Steve's work.
>>Bruce
>>
>>
>>>I would buy one.  Of course, if I happen to "stumble" across a design
>>>before the kit is available, I would simply build it myself.  The
>>>circuitry on a UEGO isn't all that complicated.  In its most basic form,
>>>it is a single op-amp and a few discretes.  Add a few more components for
>>>a double-ended power supply, something to shut off the ion pump when it's
>>>not warm, something to regulate the heater, and you have it.
>>>
>>>Ray Drouillard
>>>
>>>
>>>On Sat, 30 Jan 1999 14:25:13 -0600 Steve Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
>>>writes:
>>>>If one would come as a kit for under $200.00 with sensor. How many
>>>>would
>>>>buy the kit ? No sense to design if one if no one was interested in a
>>>>wide O2 meter.
>>>>
>>>>Steve
>>>>
>>>>Mike Pitts wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Any interest?  Is this a waste of bandwidth?
>>>>>
>>>>> "This invention provides an self-calibrating buffer amplifier
>>>>> for a Universal Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor interface circuit
>>>>> which couples and processes a voltage signal proportional
>>>>> to pumping cell current to a level and reference voltage suitable
>>>>> for input to an A-to-D convertor. The goal of this invention is to
>>>>> increase the accuracy of air-to-fuel ratio control by continually
>>>>> correcting for the effects of offset quantities in the amplifier
>>>>> stage necessary to the interface circuitry. This goal is
>>>>accomplished
>>>>> by an approach which effectively generates and subtracts these
>>>>> offset quantities from the processed signal. "
>>>>>
>>>>> http://patent.womplex.ibm.com/details?pn=US05211154__
>>>>>
>>>>> -Mike
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>___________________________________________________________________
>>>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>>>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>>>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>>>
>>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 09:19:35 1999
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From: "Gustaf Ulander" <gustaf.ulander@bercoproduktion.se>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: SV: fuel pumps/reservoirs
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 15:13:48 +0100
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Hi all!

Long time no post...

----------
> Från: Mike Pilkenton <mpilkent@ptw.com>
> 
> Well I'm deep into my engine conversion project and need to install an
> electric fuel pump for the EFI engine (3.1L V6).  Question is do I have
to
> put the fuel pump back in the tank or can I install the pump up by the
> engine.  I know I need the high pressure type made for FI engines and not
> the carb (low pressure).  Mounting anaftermarket in-line pump up by the
> engine sure would be more convenient.  Any advice would be appreciated.
> 

I had a similar problem when converting my Capri (
http://www.look.at/Ford_Capri , BlackMagicCapri ) to Bosch K-jetronic.

Did as some described here, a small reservoir (0,7 liters) in the engine
compartment, fed by the standard mech. fuel pump. Low pressure (LP) in near
the bottom, outlet to the high pressure (HP) pump at the bottom. Return
line from K-jet at near the top, LP return to the gas tank at the top.

Seemed to work Ok except for a hesitation accelerating out of lefthanders
at the track. Probably because the mech fuel pump couldn't keep up.

Since I am about to redesign the reservoir to this season, I'd be
interested in any input on the design.

Regards

Gustaf Ulander, Sweden

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 09:37:28 1999
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From: Wen Yen Chan <chanwe@ecf.utoronto.ca>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
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Hello,

Checkout the Field SFC-VTEC controller. In addition to allowing you to
change the VTEC cut-over point it allows some adjustments (the transfer
function can be a non linear function of engine speed and map) to
be made to the fuel curves. 

On Mon, 1 Feb 1999, Bruce Plecan wrote:

> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Walter Sherwin <wsherwin@idirect.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Sunday, January 31, 1999 9:13 PM
> Subject: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
> 
> This idea, just universally raises the entire table.  Seldon is what is
> needed.
> Playing with the coolant temp/MAT, and MAP signals all do the same thing.
> There ain't no short cuts, reprogramming done right, takes time.
> Bruce
> 
> 
> >Sounds like there is a lot of pent up UEGO talent out there.  Here is an
> >idea for a product that about half of us could really use right now  (I'd
> >buy two if I could find such an animal).   Picture
> >this........................................................you are working
> >on a GM style MAP based system, that is to be converted to artificial
> >aspiration.  Perhaps it was originally artificially aspirated, or perhaps
> it
> >was not.   Once the basic control "system" is in place, you and I are still
> >faced with the challenge of remappping the open loop VE tables.   Remapping
> >the VE's can be done labouriously, through data logging, and post hex
> >editing.
> >
> >What about a control box which would take a UEGO signal, and perform an
> >appropriate transform equation, and then export the resultant signal to an
> >output port which one could connect to the O2 sensor pin of an OEM  MAP
> >computer.    The goal would be to make an artificial setpoint (say 11.5:1
> >A/F ratio) appear to the OEM computer as stoich.  If this were possible,
> >then one could use the OEM computer to generate BLM's and iteratively (read
> >this as safely) reach the perfect "MAP" while driving, or while on a
> chassis
> >dyno.  Imagine, in one afternoon, you could do the work of several days.
> >This would even help the normally aspirated guys.
> >
> >Just food for thought.  If anyone comes up with one of these (or knows
> where
> >I can find one)  then let me know, please.
> >
> >
> >
> >Thanks;
> >Walt.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
> >To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> >Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 9:39 PM
> >Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff
> >
> >
> >>
> >>-----Original Message-----
> >>From: Raymond C Drouillard <cosmic.ray@juno.com>
> >>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> >>Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 11:39 PM
> >>Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff
> >>
> >>Gee, sounds so easy.  Hmm, care to whip up a ION?.
> >>I certainly hope you weren't making light of Steve's work.
> >>Bruce
> >>
> >>
> >>>I would buy one.  Of course, if I happen to "stumble" across a design
> >>>before the kit is available, I would simply build it myself.  The
> >>>circuitry on a UEGO isn't all that complicated.  In its most basic form,
> >>>it is a single op-amp and a few discretes.  Add a few more components for
> >>>a double-ended power supply, something to shut off the ion pump when it's
> >>>not warm, something to regulate the heater, and you have it.
> >>>
> >>>Ray Drouillard
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>On Sat, 30 Jan 1999 14:25:13 -0600 Steve Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
> >>>writes:
> >>>>If one would come as a kit for under $200.00 with sensor. How many
> >>>>would
> >>>>buy the kit ? No sense to design if one if no one was interested in a
> >>>>wide O2 meter.
> >>>>
> >>>>Steve
> >>>>
> >>>>Mike Pitts wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Any interest?  Is this a waste of bandwidth?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> "This invention provides an self-calibrating buffer amplifier
> >>>>> for a Universal Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor interface circuit
> >>>>> which couples and processes a voltage signal proportional
> >>>>> to pumping cell current to a level and reference voltage suitable
> >>>>> for input to an A-to-D convertor. The goal of this invention is to
> >>>>> increase the accuracy of air-to-fuel ratio control by continually
> >>>>> correcting for the effects of offset quantities in the amplifier
> >>>>> stage necessary to the interface circuitry. This goal is
> >>>>accomplished
> >>>>> by an approach which effectively generates and subtracts these
> >>>>> offset quantities from the processed signal. "
> >>>>>
> >>>>> http://patent.womplex.ibm.com/details?pn=US05211154__
> >>>>>
> >>>>> -Mike
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>___________________________________________________________________
> >>>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> >>>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> >>>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
> >>>
> >>
> >
> 
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 10:20:37 1999
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff
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>FUELTRONICS also sell them
>
Gotta URL for FUELTRONICS???

Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 10:25:43 1999
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From: "Van Setten, Tim (AZ75)" <Tim.Van.Setten@CAS.honeywell.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Anyone trigger a electronic IG module with points?
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 08:19:13 -0700 
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> Subject: Anyone trigger a electronic IG module with points?
> 
	You might want to try a company called "Pertronix".   I did a search
on the net and found one site at:

	http://www.justbmws.com/pertronix.html

	We have used these point conversion electronic ignitions in our
sandrails with great success.  We run a lot of different engines and they
seem to make one for everything.  The best part is that just in case it does
screw up, you can still put the points back in and drive home!
	Good luck....Tim.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 10:48:30 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff
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-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff

Might try
www.fueltronics.com.au
Least that's what Doc says
Bruce


>>FUELTRONICS also sell them
>>
>Gotta URL for FUELTRONICS???
>
>Greg
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 10:56:27 1999
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James thanks.  Max RPM = 7000, but only in a serious race.  The car is mostly for fun and as a hotrod to build and admire.  Most of the driving will be on warm summer afternoons.

>>> James Ballenger <ballengerj@sprynet.com> 01/29 5:51 PM >>>


David Sagers wrote:

> The builder said that a short stroke engine will respond better to a turbo as it'll rev faster.  So I'm looking for someone with knowledge and experience with turbo engines.   Do I go with the shorter stoke that'll rev faster, or go with the 4" stroke that makes a lot of torque, especially in the low RPM ranges.  Low RPM torque seems to be important as this is going to be a street engine generally run in the lower RPM ranges.

I've thought about a twin turbo Poncho 400 ;^)  How high do you need to rev to get full boost?  The smaller stroke responding better would make sense.  With enough boost, you could get plenty of torque and good hp.  How high are you going to rev this engine?

James Ballenger




From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 11:04:18 1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: More UEGO stuff
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 09:04:31 -0700
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Their new addy is http://www.fueltronics.com.au/.


Regards,

Barry

> -----Original Message-----

> >FUELTRONICS also sell them
> >
> Gotta URL for FUELTRONICS???
> 
> Greg


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 11:19:35 1999
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From: bob@bobthecomputerguy.com (Robert Harris)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Cc: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams),
        Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>,
        tony.cooper@virgin.net
Subject: Wide Range EGO
Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 16:18:59 GMT
Organization: Bob - the Computer Guy
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Ray, others - if the parts are about 20 bucks cept the UEGO and a board first
off - small quantity -is about 50 bucks - I'll take up a collection and write
you a check for several as soon as you are ready.  Don't forget to include in
the price pizza and a bucket of beer.

Hell, all most of want is to:
A: Understand the technology - we think its neat (dating myself)
B: Use the technology for our thangs
C: Acquire it without domestic budget consent

Please don't misunderstand if some of us are very curious.  Saying its doable
affects some of us like showing up with a truck load of girl scout cookies at
a dirty old man in raincoats convention.   We NEED need need need want want
want pant pant oh oh oh - who's yor daddeeeeeee!!!!!  one.

A quick consensus says 0 - 5 volts output - fine for meters etc

O to 1 with Stoic about .5 makes it almost a drop in.

And the adjustable crossing point - pleeeeze.  And hopefully electronically
setable so a stamp can control it.

Most of us just want one, and if it turns into a viable commercial opportunity
for you, more power, just as long as C above applies.

Thanking you in advance for your none look up the patent - it will only be
available to those willing to Monica the developer attitude and approach.

1963 Ford C-600 Prison Bus Conversion "Home"
1971 Lincoln Continental 460 "Christine"
1972 "Whale" Mustang awaiting transplant
1978 Dodge Long Bed Peeek Up "Bundymobile"

Habaneros - not just for breakfast anymore

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 11:45:18 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: jsg@donet.com
Subject: Thoughts on a new list... proj101
Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 11:45:13 -0500
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I'm becoming more and more interested in understanding the
code (not just tables) of my 165. I would like to see
a forum were we could more openly share such information.
(is that possible?).

I would like your comments on setting up a third
mailing list that focuses on the project 101 material.
This list would complement diy_efi and efi332 and serve
to separate project 101 material into its own archive.
I would also like a volunteer to actively maintain a web
page for it (at the efi332 site).

Possible name: proj101@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

john gwynne

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 12:01:33 1999
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	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Different Strokes
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>>How high do you need to rev to get full boost?

This is a *common* misconception about turbocharged 
engines.  Boost is not RPM dependent, as it is with 
superchargers.  Boost is mostly a function of engine 
load.  IE: You can be driving down the highway at 
3000 RPM (for instance) with zero boost or even vacuum.  
But pulling a heavy trailer up a steep hill at the 
same, or even lower RPM, can yield full boost.

-Mike

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 12:20:57 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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-----Original Message-----
From: jsg@donet.com <jsg@donet.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 11:54 AM
Subject: Thoughts on a new list... proj101

I'd be all for it, with one big note, that it includes the basics, ie there
is some
talent to be called upon, who have the time, to read the code, but don't
have
the oportunity to go back to school to learn how.  I for one have been
trying to
figure it out, but that darn CSH keeps falling over my eyes.
  Also, I'd only agree to the 165 as a starting point.  The 730 is really
nice,
to work with.  If the intent is just to do one ecm, then I'd say picking one
that
is as versatile as possible, something like a 8625.
Cheers
Bruce        Doc, and Grumpy are already booting up their laptops



>
>I'm becoming more and more interested in understanding the
>code (not just tables) of my 165. I would like to see
>a forum were we could more openly share such information.
>(is that possible?).
>
>I would like your comments on setting up a third
>mailing list that focuses on the project 101 material.
>This list would complement diy_efi and efi332 and serve
>to separate project 101 material into its own archive.
>I would also like a volunteer to actively maintain a web
>page for it (at the efi332 site).
>
>Possible name: proj101@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>
>john gwynne
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 12:43:46 1999
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From: "Van Setten, Tim (AZ75)" <Tim.Van.Setten@CAS.honeywell.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Intake Runner Length
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 10:39:48 -0700 
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> Subject: Intake Runner Length
> 
> 
> 
> What for ecm?.
> 
	We ended up conjuring our own.  (Mainly by swiping circuits out of
every known ecm in the free world).  We wanted a box with knobs on it that
controls the basic fuel curve.  It's not a good idea to take a lap top out
into the sand dunes to change the fuel curve.
>  We want to try
> >different intake manifold combinations.
> 
> 
> For plenum, start at engine displacement, and going as high as 2x
> displacement wouldn't be a worry, as long as it worked.
> When I can I build the plenum, so I can add layers of spacers.
> I'd also, do that for runner lengths if I were you.
> Now, the runner diameters is a real nasty issue, ie lots of possibles.
> Stock Car Racing Mag several years ago had an article about them
> as I recall.
>   With a VW head aren't you rather limited in port diameter?.
> Bruce
> 
	Actually not, the after-market heads can get quite large.  I have
actually seen some valves that looked as big a Coke can.

	I made a trip to our local pick-n-pull junk yard here in Phx, and I
haven't done the numbers yet, but the average runner length is about  17
inches, and the plenums are about the same as engine displacement.  Here is
where it gets interesting:  The average daily driver car has round runners
about 1 1/4 or so in dia.  The go-fast cars (Ford Mustang 5.0, Honda V-tek,
etc.) usually have square or rectangle runners.  And the drag racers say the
"trick" runner shape should be like the letter "D".  I didn't expect so many
variations!
	Thanks for all the inputs.....Tim.


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 12:44:58 1999
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From: Teller.John@orbital.com
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 12:40:38 -0500
Subject: Throttle Body Fuel Pressure Regulator
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I'm in the process of rebuilding the carbon-fouled head on my Buick 2.5L 4,
and have taken apart the Throttle body for a thorough dunking in the can of
parts cleaner.  Of course, the regulator can't go in there because of the
rubber bits, but all the GM manuals explicitly state that it must not be
taken apart, even though it is attached to a very dirty bracket that ought
to go in the bath with the rest of the TB.

Is there something highly calibrated in there that would be destroyed if
the regulator were disassembled, or is the warning there because the thing
needs to be taken apart in a press and the spring pressure let out slowly?

--- John T.



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 12:58:43 1999
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From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Thoughts on a new list... proj101
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On Mon, 1 Feb 1999 jsg@donet.com wrote:

> 
> I'm becoming more and more interested in understanding the
> code (not just tables) of my 165. I would like to see
> a forum were we could more openly share such information.
> (is that possible?).
> 
> I would like your comments on setting up a third
> mailing list that focuses on the project 101 material.
> This list would complement diy_efi and efi332 and serve
> to separate project 101 material into its own archive.
> I would also like a volunteer to actively maintain a web
> page for it (at the efi332 site).
> 
> Possible name: proj101@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> 
> john gwynne
> 

I would probably try to add a generic understand and reversing
manufacturers ECM code list.    Alot of the code is very similar
between all of the different ECM's.  The code is different, but the
functions are very very similar.    Maybe call the list gmecm? or
something similar?

			Roger
			


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 13:12:10 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Throttle Body Fuel Pressure Regulator
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-----Original Message-----
From: Teller.John@orbital.com <Teller.John@orbital.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 12:53 PM
Subject: Throttle Body Fuel Pressure Regulator

I've taken them apart just using my hands to hold the spring collasped.
But, I do have a firm gripe (with my hands, now reality is another matter)
Bruce


>Is there something highly calibrated in there that would be destroyed if
>the regulator were disassembled, or is the warning there because the thing
>needs to be taken apart in a press and the spring pressure let out slowly?
>
>--- John T.
>
>


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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 10:34:59 -0800
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, twsharpe@mtco.com
From: Al Lipper <alipper@cardozo.org>
Subject: Re: ECU6 EFI system construction
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Tom, I'm almost ready to post the schematics for ECU7 - the latest
revision.  I'll let everyone know when they're up.  In the meantime, check
http://members.aol.com/ALIPPER/
for updates.

	Al



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 13:29:12 1999
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-----Original Message-----
From: Van Setten, Tim (AZ75) <Tim.Van.Setten@CAS.honeywell.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 12:53 PM
Subject: RE: Intake Runner Length


>> What for ecm?.
> We ended up conjuring our own.  (Mainly by swiping circuits out of
>every known ecm in the free world).  We wanted a box with knobs on it that
>controls the basic fuel curve.  It's not a good idea to take a lap top out
>into the sand dunes to change the fuel curve.


Care to give any details about the ecm?.

 and the plenums are about the same as engine displacement.  Here is
>where it gets interesting:  The average daily driver car has round runners
>about 1 1/4 or so in dia.  The go-fast cars (Ford Mustang 5.0, Honda V-tek,
>etc.) usually have square or rectangle runners.  And the drag racers say
the
>"trick" runner shape should be like the letter "D".  I didn't expect so
many
>variations!

The round vs rect, is really common American compared to Euro,
over the years this may be mellowing some.
   The D port is from what "chev" has done with the exhaust port,
probably some else did it first, it's just they are so common......
Bruce
> Thanks for all the inputs.....Tim.
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 13:37:40 1999
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There's a diaphragm and a spring inside. Be prepared for it, and all
will be fine. A press is probably overkill.  Consider a lawyer working
for GM.  "Take it apart?  What if it starts leaking fuel?  That could
be dangerous!"
At least that was the impression one of the GM instructors left me
with.
Shannen
Teller.John@orbital.com wrote:
> 
> I'm in the process of rebuilding the carbon-fouled head on my Buick 2.5L 4,
> and have taken apart the Throttle body for a thorough dunking in the can of
> parts cleaner.  Of course, the regulator can't go in there because of the
> rubber bits, but all the GM manuals explicitly state that it must not be
> taken apart, even though it is attached to a very dirty bracket that ought
> to go in the bath with the rest of the TB.
> 
> Is there something highly calibrated in there that would be destroyed if
> the regulator were disassembled, or is the warning there because the thing
> needs to be taken apart in a press and the spring pressure let out slowly?
> 
> --- John T.


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 13:39:24 1999
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From: "David Sagers" <dsagers@ci.west-valley.ut.us>
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Thanks all for the info, there are a lot of very bright people on this list, and I appreciate your help.

I'm calling the engine builder this afternoon and will build a 4" stroke SBC using a Rodeck alum block made for the 4' stroke.  In order to make this combination live for a long time I'll be using a 4340 non twisted crankshaft, 6" Carrillo rods and pistons from JE or Wiseco.  I'm also going to take the advice to have the pistons coated, both the crowns and the skirts, and I'm going to send the heads and exhaust manifolds in for the heat barrier coatings.

I also agree with ECMnut@aol.com when he said "I think your biggest headache will be traction."  (and yes, you are welcome to come over for a test ride!!)

Thanks again everyone!


>Carl Summers wrote:
>       It has been my experience that it does take less time for the >engine to accelerate with a shorter stroke,,,but like you said the >larger cu in will give more streetable torque and that would >probably be the trade off I would take if I already had the parts >as you do.....The biggest downfall of the 4" arm is the fact that >you have very little(if any...was this 350 mains or 400?) journal >overlap and if you are planning to make alot of hp(1000+) and/or >rpm,,expect this crank to crack probably after 30 1/4 mile >blasts.....just some experience....hth's
>-Carl Summers


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 13:54:11 1999
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References: <Pine.BSI.3.95.990129084435.7374B-100000@horizon.hit.net> <36B2EF2B.2A67@worldnet.att.net> <36B5218C.820D38B4@mtco.com>
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Tom Sharpe wrote:
> 

> 
> How do you PWM a 15 amp load??? Someone design a circuit please. Can the driver
> board be mase to work??
> 
> TIA  TOM
That's a good question.  How do they PWM the coolant fans? I know I
can hear the relay clicking away..
Shannen


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From: "Guenther,Max" <Mguenther@ASCO.COM>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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  Where is delco edit.  I looked in 332 incoming but can't find it.
Found gnuplot.exe. though.  Could someone e-mail it to me if its not
there anymore.  And if I'm blind please let me know!


It appears to me that # of cylinders does not determine the ECM.?  In
other words I might find a Grand Am with the same ECM as the Corvette?
1227727 I believe.  Just change the chip and away?
Thanks,
Max

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 14:08:04 1999
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Thanks Bruce...  The latest version of drag strip plus is in the
incoming directory at ftp://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, race406s.zip

--steve

Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> Ya wanna post this in place of the old one?.
> Thanks
> Bruce
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>                    Name: race406s.zip
>    race406s.zip    Type: Zip Compressed Data (application/x-zip-compressed)
>                Encoding: base64

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 14:08:51 1999
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James Weiler wrote:
> 
> gents,
> 
> Can somebody tell me why fusible links are all the rage now rather
> than a fuse?  Is there some niffty piece of info on these things that I'm
> missing?

Fusible links are designed to take a brief overloads without failing. 
They're great for things like fan motors, which have high initial
current draw.  According to a service bulletin, fuses can blow because
of expansion/contraction of the element due to quick high loads.  I'm
not making this up, they called it thermal fatigue.  And fuses need a
fuse holder and extra wiring. (Co$t)

> 
> Secondly, how do you convert fusible link guage to Amps?  i.e. 20 GA
> fusible link will blow at what amperage?
I don't know that, but a fusible link should be 2 AWG sizes smaller
than the wire it's attached to.  10 ga wire should have 14 ga fusible
link. Length should be kept to a minimum.
Shannen
> 
> thanks to all in advance
> jw


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James Weiler wrote:
> 
> gents,
> 
> Can somebody tell me why fusible links are all the rage now rather
> than a fuse?  Is there some niffty piece of info on these things that I'm
> missing?

Just from the couple cars I own, I see fusible links used between the
battery and the fuse box, but not after the fuse box, and not directly
to anything else.  Why they use them instead of inline fuses, I'm not
sure.

> 
> Secondly, how do you convert fusible link guage to Amps?  i.e. 20 GA
> fusible link will blow at what amperage?
> 
> thanks to all in advance
> jw

--steve

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On Mon, 1 Feb 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote:

> Tom Sharpe wrote:
> > 
> 
> > 
> > How do you PWM a 15 amp load??? Someone design a circuit please. Can the driver
> > board be mase to work??
> > 
> > TIA  TOM
> That's a good question.  How do they PWM the coolant fans? I know I
> can hear the relay clicking away..
> Shannen

My guess would be that you would need at least two stages, first a
small transistor to provide enougn current to drive the actual power
transistor.  I don't know what you would need for a power transistor.
I think the 2N3055 maxs out a 15 amps in a TO-3 case with a heat sink,
so you might need to look for something slightly bigger, and you would
probably have to watch the PWM on/off cycle to make sure the on/off
steps are not too fast for the power transistor.

			Roger


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-----Original Message-----
From: Guenther,Max <Mguenther@ASCO.COM>
To: 'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 2:04 PM
Subject: delco_edit

Name changed to Promedit, bottom half of page FTP
Bruce



>  Where is delco edit.  I looked in 332 incoming but can't find it.
>Found gnuplot.exe. though.  Could someone e-mail it to me if its not
>there anymore.  And if I'm blind please let me know!
>
>
>It appears to me that # of cylinders does not determine the ECM.?  In
>other words I might find a Grand Am with the same ECM as the Corvette?
>1227727 I believe.  Just change the chip and away?
>Thanks,
>Max
>


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References: <199902011645.LAA26145@jsgpc.mrcday.com>
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I think it's an excellent idea.  I agree with both Bruce's and Roger's
comments also, if it covered a half dozen GM ecms or so that'd be great.

Since I'm already on the diy_efi and efi_332 pages I can do the 101 page
also.

--steve



jsg@donet.com wrote:
> 
> I'm becoming more and more interested in understanding the
> code (not just tables) of my 165. I would like to see
> a forum were we could more openly share such information.
> (is that possible?).
> 
> I would like your comments on setting up a third
> mailing list that focuses on the project 101 material.
> This list would complement diy_efi and efi332 and serve
> to separate project 101 material into its own archive.
> I would also like a volunteer to actively maintain a web
> page for it (at the efi332 site).
> 
> Possible name: proj101@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> 
> john gwynne

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I can throw together a circuit to do this. I've used PWM for DC motor
control circuits before. How about a low side driver, it would be easier
to do. (This is a switch that grounds the motor).

For input control, just an analog 0-12V for stopped to full on, with
all speeds in-between.

I'll get it together and scanned hopefully before the week is out.

Oh, do fuel pumps really draw 15 Amps? Ouch.

One word of caution thou, PWM is electrically noisy. You will want to
put the controller close to the pump, as not to disrupt every electrical
device in your car.

BobR.



<snip>

Tom Sharpe wrote:

>How do you PWM a 15 amp load??? Someone design a circuit please. Can the driver
>board be mase to work??
>
>TIA  TOM
>
------------------------------



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> I would probably try to add a generic understand and reversing
> manufacturers ECM code list.    Alot of the code is very similar
> between all of the different ECM's.  The code is different, but the
> functions are very very similar.    Maybe call the list gmecm? or
> something similar?

I like this "gmecm" idea too. Much of the prog101 work has already been
done for certain ECMs.  For those of us who like the idea of a single
piece of software to edit several different ECMs, an ".ecu" file (for
promedit) for each known prom shouldn't be all that difficult.

Known ECMs I've seen detailed info about recently:
1) '7148 from a Turbo Regal/GN --
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/chips/gmprom.html
2) '7749 from Syclone/Typhoon --
www.syty.org (also http://gunther.infohwy.com/~rgregory/proms.html)
3) '7747 from '90 P/U
efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/diy_efi/oem/gm
4) 16159278 from '93 Z28
http://www.hit.net/~rah/disassnotes.html

I'd bet that the '165 from a TPI F-Body and several of the
'vette models have been hacked too, but I can't come up with
the URLs at the moment.

-greg


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Subject: RE: SV: fuel pumps/reservoirs
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I saw one several years ago (mid 80's). It was used on a Mechanical FI,
but IMO it should work fine here. Little John Buttera (built funny cars,
and an Indy car) did this for a street car. He used a small tank, with a
float bowl from a Holley carb mounted to the side for level control, and
ran the return line back to the original tank. I presume it was to keep
the fuel from sitting under the hood too long, and absorbing too much
heat (?). Just seems safer than 1 litter (however much that is) of fuel
under pressure that near a hot motor.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 16:21:25 1999
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Subject: 730 variations
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 12:40:12 -0800
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After several weeks of lurking, and reading through the archives, I have
a question. I am working on doing an IR Pontiac. It seems the ideal ECM
to use is the 730. I have read in several places that the best setup is
90-92. I have a feeling that just saying Camaro will double the price of
the parts, would one of the 6 cylinder applications be the same? Is the
difference in the ECM, or is it just the Memcal (or is that Mempack ?).

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 16:22:19 1999
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>   The D port is from what "chev" has done with the exhaust port,
>probably some else did it first, it's just they are so common......
>Bruce

IIRC, the exhaust ports on the Ford 427 FE "cammer" were the first to be D
shaped---with the flat on the short side of the curve. In other words,
round, except for where the flow would separate anywayz. Believe it was
claimed to help keep velocity up, and more importantly, turbulence down.

Regards, Greg

>> Thanks for all the inputs.....Tim.
>>



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>Tom Sharpe wrote:
>>
>
>>
>> How do you PWM a 15 amp load??? Someone design a circuit please. Can the
>>driver
>> board be mase to work??
>>
>> TIA  TOM
>That's a good question.  How do they PWM the coolant fans? I know I
>can hear the relay clicking away..
>Shannen

I believe it's (the actual switching) done with an SCR, but that is coming
from a total klutz in terms of electronics.

Regards, Greg



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-----Original Message-----
From: rauscher@icst.com <rauscher@icst.com>
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 3:26 PM
Subject: PWM driver

Might think about using two IRFZ20's
The surge on is big.  I think on a TRex pump we went to 25A fuses, once.
I'm no EE, but from what I looked at ganging some Power MOSFETs on the
output looked like the hot setup, then add or minus as ya want
Bruce


>
>
>I can throw together a circuit to do this. I've used PWM for DC motor
>control circuits before. How about a low side driver, it would be easier
>to do. (This is a switch that grounds the motor).
>
>For input control, just an analog 0-12V for stopped to full on, with
>all speeds in-between.
>
>I'll get it together and scanned hopefully before the week is out.
>
>Oh, do fuel pumps really draw 15 Amps? Ouch.
>
>One word of caution thou, PWM is electrically noisy. You will want to
>put the controller close to the pump, as not to disrupt every electrical
>device in your car.
>
>BobR.
>
>
>
><snip>
>
>Tom Sharpe wrote:
>
>>How do you PWM a 15 amp load??? Someone design a circuit please. Can the
driver
>>board be mase to work??
>>
>>TIA  TOM
>>
>------------------------------
>
>


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Subject: Re: Throttle Body Fuel Pressure Regulator
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Great!  By press I meant an arbor press, which I have used to press
insulation displacement connectors onto ribbon cables.  The regulator
housing and bracket are pretty filthy, so I think I will brave the GM
lawyers and disassemble the thing for cleaning...

Thanks!
--- John T.



                                                              
                                                              
                                                              
 To:      diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu                   
                                                              
 cc:      (bcc: John Teller/ORBVA)                            
                                                              
                                                              
                                                              
 Subject: Re: Throttle Body Fuel Pressure Regulator           
                                                              




There's a diaphragm and a spring inside. Be prepared for it, and all
will be fine. A press is probably overkill.  Consider a lawyer working
for GM.  "Take it apart?  What if it starts leaking fuel?  That could
be dangerous!"
At least that was the impression one of the GM instructors left me
with.
Shannen





From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 16:28:03 1999
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I've lurked long enough and watched all the discussion here and learned alot
. . . now I have some questions

I am building an ignition system for a one cylinder tractor, This will be
used on a 30 cid alcohol burning 1/4 scale pulling tractor. My plan after
reading all there is to read about ignitions in the archive is to use a GM
HEI coil. My system will be setup like this:

Homemade nylon/plastic collar with epoxied in metal trigger(steel or iron?)
attached to the crank, Ford distibutor coil pickup, (using the ford due to
size) hooked to the 4 pin GM module, which in turn will be hooked to the HEI
coil. In theory this appears to work, will it? Anyone do it yet?

Will a GM coil run a single cylinder up to 8000rpms? I saw some info saying
above 5000 rpms the coil drops off but that would be on a multiengine car
right, since u would have one trigger per rev not 4,6 or 8?

I realize that I will have a wasted spark on the exhaust stroke.  My advance
will be a manual cable that will rotate the pickup coil after the engine is
started. Might play with a vacuum advance/or electronic setup later on in
the season if this even works (anyone wanna help out I'm electronic stupid)?

After reading all the info here I kinda think that it wouldn't be all that
hard to put a GM (?) fuel injection system on this tractor, hardest part
would be a chip for a single cylinder I guess? Carb rules for this class
says must be normal aspiration so injection is legal, saw one guy running a
hilborn at the nationals this past weekend. 

Cost is a big factor in this design, I need to use "junk yard parts" since I
do not have alot to spend, besides it sure is alot better to beat the big
$$$ guys with "junk" Thanks in advance for any info, and if this wasn't a
good posting for this group sorry, but it is my first post in a year :)

Bruce

"advanced dealer in the great material continuum"


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 16:30:52 1999
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I pulled a 730 out of a really rusty '89 Cavalier Wagon about 2 weeks
ago. I paid about $100 for the whole *car*. ;^D

I plan on using the '90-92 TPI Camaro Memcal with it. Hopefully just the
Memcal won't be too much :)

Oh, and count me in on that "new" GM ECM list as well. Love to learn
more about my 165...

-Andrew

Eric Aos wrote:
> 
> After several weeks of lurking, and reading through the archives, I have
> a question. I am working on doing an IR Pontiac. It seems the ideal ECM
> to use is the 730. I have read in several places that the best setup is
> 90-92. I have a feeling that just saying Camaro will double the price of
> the parts, would one of the 6 cylinder applications be the same? Is the
> difference in the ECM, or is it just the Memcal (or is that Mempack ?).

-- 
***********************************************************************
I tell my son that there are 22 letters in the alphabet, and 4 verbs...
Be, see, tee, and pee...      Exist, look around, play golf, and pee...
Drives my wife crazy... ;^)                -Andrew

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 16:37:40 1999
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From: "Van Setten, Tim (AZ75)" <Tim.Van.Setten@CAS.honeywell.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Looking for injectors
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 14:34:56 -0700 
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> << What kind? Type, brand, flow rate, O-ring, Hose-barb?????
>   >>
> 24,27,32lb For GM TPI
> 
Can't help you there, however I do have some sources for port-style
injectors.
Sorry.....Tim.


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 16:59:38 1999
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From: "Van Setten, Tim (AZ75)" <Tim.Van.Setten@CAS.honeywell.com>
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Subject: RE: Intake Runner Length
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 14:56:18 -0700 
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> >> What for ecm?.
> > We ended up conjuring our own.  (Mainly by swiping circuits out of
> >every known ecm in the free world).  We wanted a box with knobs on it
> that
> >controls the basic fuel curve.  It's not a good idea to take a lap top
> out
> >into the sand dunes to change the fuel curve.
> 
> 
> Care to give any details about the ecm?.
> 
	The ecm started out using a 68HC11, but to make a very long story
short, we ended up making an analog system.  The digital stuff is a
nightmare.  You have to remember that this IS the most electrically noisy
environment around.  Magnesium engines, steel frames, aluminum do-dads, high
RF fields from radios, lots of emi from magneto's, (to really screw up a
ecm, watch what a MSD 7AL2 multi-spark does using solid core wires), but the
topper is when some of these village-idiots use a garden tractor battery to
try starting a 13:1 compression motor!
	Yes it can be done, and when we did this years ago, we were heading
for a box the size of a coffin to buffer, hold-up, condition, isolate, the
signals.  The killer was using methanol and trying to convince the O2 sensor
to stay alive.  When we went to a basic analog system, 99.99999% of the
problems went away. (No processor resets, endless loops, watch-dog timers,
etc..etc..).  
	Going to a speed-density system, (TPS and Tach), sequential-double
fire, we could use pot to trim overall curve, idle, mid, top end.  Adding a
MAP gave us the additional curve for the boost correction fuel.  I can't go
into schematics without giving up too many secrets, but I'll try to answer
questions.  (Hope I answered some of your questions Bruce).
	Tim.

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Subject: TC's and manual trans (was: Re: Smooth strategy)
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Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 15:06:51 -0700 (MST)
In-Reply-To: <36B0D7E0.E6F38F86@grolen.com> from "Shannen Durphey" at Jan 28, 99 04:34:24 pm
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Helicopter
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Shannen Durphey wrote:
> 
> If you have any chances to roll around some of the car shows with well
> restored examples from the early 40's to late 50's, you'll see that
> the upper scale cars were designed to be very smooth.  In the
> transmissions, there were vacuum powered clutches, variable speed
> transmissions, standard trans with torque converters. Even
                 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Oooh!, the magic words.  I was just about to ask about this.  Can 
anyone give me some info or point me to a source about torque convertors
and how exactly they work.  Are these tightly interdependant on an
automatic trans (because of the fluid used) or could they possibly be
used independantly?  I.e., adapted for use on a manual trans.

Forgetting for the moment about the specific machiningg, adapters, etc that
would be required to physically hook it up, is it possible or feasible 
to make it work outside of an automatic trans?  Is it's hydraulic fluid
supply sealed inside the convertor?  Could you fill the convertor and
seal it and expect it to work for very long or does it need a continuous
flow of fluid for cooling?  If so, would pressure need to be modulated
for any reason or does it just need a continuous flow?

thanks for any info
--Dan


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In a message dated 2/1/99 4:30:40 PM Eastern Standard Time, EOA@spartek.com
writes:

<< After several weeks of lurking, and reading through the archives, I have
 a question. I am working on doing an IR Pontiac. It seems the ideal ECM
 to use is the 730. I have read in several places that the best setup is
 90-92. I have a feeling that just saying Camaro will double the price of
 the parts, would one of the 6 cylinder applications be the same? Is the
 difference in the ECM, or is it just the Memcal (or is that Mempack ?).
 
  >>

 FYI,
The 727 is identical to 730 except it is designed to be mounted in the engine
compartment.  (possibly more convenient when doing a conversion).  You can get
a 727 and the entire harness and sensors from the engine compartment of any
late '80s or early '90s Pontiac Grand Prix with a v6 (I believe '88 to @ '91).
Then you just put a V8 Memcal in it.
Check this sight out:
 
http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/p4xref.html#1227727

I have the memcal I pulled from a 727('88 Grand Prix) running in my 730 right
now (I have an I6).
If I had known this from the beginning, I would not have had to drill a whole
in my firewall to run the harness, and I would now have more room in my glove
department (where my 730 now resides).

Ted

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 17:16:13 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: 730 variations
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-----Original Message-----
From: Eric Aos <EOA@spartek.com>
To: 'diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 4:39 PM
Subject: 730 variations

There are lots of late 80's FWD cars using the 730.  The memcal is the
difference, yes.  As long as the tag says 1227730 an the original board
is inside you'll be fine.
Bruce


>After several weeks of lurking, and reading through the archives, I have
>a question. I am working on doing an IR Pontiac. It seems the ideal ECM
>to use is the 730. I have read in several places that the best setup is
>90-92. I have a feeling that just saying Camaro will double the price of
>the parts, would one of the 6 cylinder applications be the same? 



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 17:16:22 1999
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cybergate.net>
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Subject: Re: fuel pumps
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 17:15:08 -0500
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Not only fires but locate it so that even in a severe crash, the tank and
lines will not get crushed or torn loose.  A tank under the back seat area
with the fuel pump nearby is a good location.  You don't need floats or
other stuff, feed a cone shaped tank tangentially at the bottom.  Vent the
top back to the main fuel tank, supply the high pressure pump from the
middle of the bottom.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

>
>I'm not being smart or a wise a--, but do you like fires?.
>Have as absolutely few as possible connections, even, under the hood.
>Use only AN Lines, and Fittings, and practice making a couple dozen lines
>before you try it for the final fitting.
>I've seen everything possible that could go wrong go wrong under the hood,
>and way too many fires.
>   Keeping the pump, filter, seperator, accumulator (mini storage tank) and
>as much misc fuel stuff by the tank and away from any heat source.
>Sorry to ramble I just hate engine fires
>Bruce
>
>
>>I will also be converting to EFI shortly and wonder if the following will
>>work:
>>
>>Use a low pressure electric pump mounted by the tank feeding forward to an
>>insulated fuel resovoir ( say 1 liter in size) mounted in the engine
>>compartment equipped with a float to keep the level constant. Then feed
the
>>high pressure pump locally from the bottom of the resovoir and route the
>>regulator bypass outlet back to the top of the resovoir. The only problem
>>that I can see is possibly vapour being trapped at the top of the tank.
>>
>>----------



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I think most newer cars have done away with fusible links and use high amp
fuses.  Fuse size is determined by the wire gauge it feeds, not necessarily
the circuit load.  Of course, the circuit load determines the wire gauge.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

>> gents,
>>
>> Can somebody tell me why fusible links are all the rage now rather
>> than a fuse?  Is there some niffty piece of info on these things that I'm
>> missing?
>
>Fusible links are designed to take a brief overloads without failing.
>They're great for things like fan motors, which have high initial
>current draw.  According to a service bulletin, fuses can blow because
>of expansion/contraction of the element due to quick high loads.  I'm
>not making this up, they called it thermal fatigue.  And fuses need a
>fuse holder and extra wiring. (Co$t)
>
>>
>> Secondly, how do you convert fusible link guage to Amps?  i.e. 20 GA
>> fusible link will blow at what amperage?
>I don't know that, but a fusible link should be 2 AWG sizes smaller
>than the wire it's attached to.  10 ga wire should have 14 ga fusible
>link. Length should be kept to a minimum.
>Shannen
>>
>> thanks to all in advance
>> jw


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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: Calling all Ignition gurus . . .
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-----Original Message-----
From: brucep@ptd.net <brucep@ptd.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 4:42 PM
Subject: Calling all Ignition gurus . . .

Ahhh pulling tractors
30CID Single?.
If you magnet/pickup will light a LED it'll fire the gm module.
An 8,000 rpm single, I can't off hand think of an answer for the ecm.
Bruce


>I've lurked long enough and watched all the discussion here and learned
alot
>. . . now I have some questions
>
>I am building an ignition system for a one cylinder tractor, This will be
>used on a 30 cid alcohol burning 1/4 scale pulling tractor. My plan after
>reading all there is to read about ignitions in the archive is to use a GM
>HEI coil. My system will be setup like this:
>
>Homemade nylon/plastic collar with epoxied in metal trigger(steel or iron?)
>attached to the crank, Ford distibutor coil pickup, (using the ford due to
>size) hooked to the 4 pin GM module, which in turn will be hooked to the
HEI
>coil. In theory this appears to work, will it? Anyone do it yet?
>
>Will a GM coil run a single cylinder up to 8000rpms? I saw some info saying
>above 5000 rpms the coil drops off but that would be on a multiengine car
>right, since u would have one trigger per rev not 4,6 or 8?
>
>I realize that I will have a wasted spark on the exhaust stroke.  My
advance
>will be a manual cable that will rotate the pickup coil after the engine is
>started. Might play with a vacuum advance/or electronic setup later on in
>the season if this even works (anyone wanna help out I'm electronic
stupid)?
>
>After reading all the info here I kinda think that it wouldn't be all that
>hard to put a GM (?) fuel injection system on this tractor, hardest part
>would be a chip for a single cylinder I guess? Carb rules for this class
>says must be normal aspiration so injection is legal, saw one guy running a
>hilborn at the nationals this past weekend.
>
>Cost is a big factor in this design, I need to use "junk yard parts" since
I
>do not have alot to spend, besides it sure is alot better to beat the big
>$$$ guys with "junk" Thanks in advance for any info, and if this wasn't a
>good posting for this group sorry, but it is my first post in a year :)
>
>Bruce
>
>"advanced dealer in the great material continuum"
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 17:59:40 1999
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From: "Van Setten, Tim (AZ75)" <Tim.Van.Setten@CAS.honeywell.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Calling all Ignition gurus . . .
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 15:54:53 -0700 
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> Homemade nylon/plastic collar with epoxied in metal trigger(steel or
> iron?)
> attached to the crank, Ford distibutor coil pickup, (using the ford due to
> size) hooked to the 4 pin GM module, which in turn will be hooked to the
> HEI
> coil. In theory this appears to work, will it? Anyone do it yet?
> 
	Yes, I have on my father's 1897 Fairbanks-Morris.  (The one with the
two big flywheels on it.  Used to have a moving-contact ignitor.  What a
pain in the ^&^%).  It now doing work on a home-made log splitter.  I used a
large bolt in one of the flywheels that goes past a Ford Magnetic Pick-up.
No advance needed because top RPM is around 450.

> Will a GM coil run a single cylinder up to 8000rpms? I saw some info
> saying
> above 5000 rpms the coil drops off but that would be on a multiengine car
> right, since u would have one trigger per rev not 4,6 or 8?
	Yes it will run a single cyl. past 8000 rpms.   We are using it now
on some 4-cyl. engines to over 8000 now!  Make sure that you use the GM HEI
coil.  They make a fender mount one that has a HV tower on it for hooking up
a coil wire to.
	Tim.



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 18:02:19 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: trinity@golden.net (Mike)
Subject: Re: 730 variations
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>After several weeks of lurking, and reading through the archives, I have
>a question. I am working on doing an IR Pontiac. It seems the ideal ECM
>to use is the 730. I have read in several places that the best setup is
>90-92. I have a feeling that just saying Camaro will double the price of
>the parts, would one of the 6 cylinder applications be the same? Is the
>difference in the ECM, or is it just the Memcal (or is that Mempack ?).
>

My old 1988 Cavalier Z24 had a '730 in it. I think any FWD MPFI 2.8 or 3.1L
V6 from about 1988 to 1991 or so had the '730 - Celebrity, Sunbird,
Cavalier, Lumina - ...they're as common as dirt.

The only thing to watch out for on older '730s is poor solder joints causing
stalling, hesitation etc. Later ECMs are better in this regard.

MEMCAL is the preferred term.

AFAIK, the ECMs are the same and only the MEMCAL changes. If you're going to
make use of the knock sensor, you need to make sure you get a MEMCAL from
the engine you're putting in the car (e.g. a 305 MEMCAL for a 305 engine) -
even if you change the PROM - because the knock filter assembly on the
MEMCAL is designed for each engine type and may not function well on other
engine lines.


--
 Mike


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 18:18:11 1999
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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 17:19:01 -0600
From: Tom Sharpe <twsharpe@mtco.com>
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Daniel Houlton wrote:

> Mike Pitts wrote:
> >
> > Some of you may remember my recent post about my desire to
> > build a rising rate pressure regulator to mount in the stock location.
> > Carl Summers informed me that he already has such a device.
>
> >
> > http://www.emi.net/~mpitts/reg.htm
> >
>
> Couple of questions:  How much or a rising rate do you get?  2:1,
> 3.2:1 , 5:1?  Is this amount adjustable?  How much was it?  I'm
> looking for one too and was planning on the Kenne Bell version.
> Kinda procrastinating because it's about $200.
>
> --Dan

How about a PWM controller with the Fuel pressure sensor under Love it and a
simple pic type of control that delivers say 25 psi at 0-2000 rpm and 75 psi
above 6000 rpm and a straight line  between the two points. Need a pressure
sensor and a tach lead.... simple.. replace the regulator with a small jet,
a-la mechanical fuel injection. Someone come up with the circuit and I'll
prototype it.

Regards   Tom



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 18:18:59 1999
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: TC's and manual trans (was: Re: Smooth strategy)
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>Shannen Durphey wrote:
>>
>> If you have any chances to roll around some of the car shows with well
>> restored examples from the early 40's to late 50's, you'll see that
>> the upper scale cars were designed to be very smooth.  In the
>> transmissions, there were vacuum powered clutches, variable speed
>> transmissions, standard trans with torque converters. Even
>                 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>
>Oooh!, the magic words.  I was just about to ask about this.  Can
>anyone give me some info or point me to a source about torque convertors
>and how exactly they work.  Are these tightly interdependant on an
>automatic trans (because of the fluid used) or could they possibly be
>used independantly?  I.e., adapted for use on a manual trans.
>
>Forgetting for the moment about the specific machiningg, adapters, etc that
>would be required to physically hook it up, is it possible or feasible
>to make it work outside of an automatic trans?  Is it's hydraulic fluid
>supply sealed inside the convertor?  Could you fill the convertor and
>seal it and expect it to work for very long or does it need a continuous
>flow of fluid for cooling?  If so, would pressure need to be modulated
>for any reason or does it just need a continuous flow?
>
>thanks for any info
>--Dan

Don't recall whatinell they called it, but for a while Porsche used a fluid
coupling AND a vacuum operated clutch (which was triggered by a microswitch
on the manual shift lever) in front of a manual tranny in the 911's. The
fluid coupling ran in engine oil, IIRC. (A fluid coupling does not multiply
torque, has only two elements, called pump and turbine.)

Easiest way to think of how one works (at least for me) is to think of a
centrifugal pump driving a centrifugal turbine--and then eliminate the two
housings, and all the attendant weight and inefficiencies, by just wrapping
the impeller and turbine wheels into a taurus shape, and mounting them face
to face.

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 18:25:41 1999
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From: "Ian Jones" <ian@cobi.demon.co.uk>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: New Binary editing s/w
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 23:23:27 -0000
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For peoples interest I have uploaded some DOS binary file editing software
to

ftp://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/incoming/EMUL16.ZIP


Ian Jones

Cobi Electronics



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 19:01:15 1999
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@idirect.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 18:59:48 -0800
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Not quite Bruce.  Picture the following "Remapping"
procedure...............................

Create a cal which defeats all of the A/F modifiers such as AE, EGR, ECT,
etc.   Also, disable open loop PE enrichment so that the computer stays in
closed loop under all conditions.  Basically, you would now have a VE driven
cal, with closed loop correction capability.   But, instead of "learning"
towards stoich, the system would learn towards a safe setpoint (of say
11.5:1) defined by the electronic gizmo I had proposed.   You could never
map a turbo/supercharged car to stoich, but 11.5 should be safe under most
conditions.

Warm the engine, and verify that it is indeed in closed loop.  Attach the
little gizmo and drive the vehicle.  As you drive, the computer will iterate
towards a set of BLM's.  Stop every once in awhile, and check that you have
covered all of the  BLM cells and  perhaps even massage some of the raw VE
tables in order to help speed up the process.  When you are done, you will
have a VE map of correct "shape", but incorrect "magnitude".

When you are happy with the BLM learning exercise, then you must  shift the
new VE map to reflect stoich rather than the atrificial setpoint.  This is
just a ratiometric number crunching exercise that is easily handled in
something like Exel, or Lotus, with data parsing.

After  the "new" map has been dumped into the cal, restore the A/F modifiers
and PE function, and PRESTO, you would have a pretty good baseline cal that
you can begin to fine tune.  This is similar to the procedure that I use for
remapping my MAP based projects, but that elusive little electronic gizmo
would make my life a lot easier and would eliminate a lot of iterative data
manipulation.

Any thoughts, suggestions, recommendations?   Again,  build a wide band A/F
meter that can emulate a zirconia oxygen sensor, and accommodate a user
setpoint, and much of the world could be at your doorstep.



Walt.


-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 6:16 AM
Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Walter Sherwin <wsherwin@idirect.com>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Sunday, January 31, 1999 9:13 PM
>Subject: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
>
>This idea, just universally raises the entire table.  Seldon is what is
>needed.
>Playing with the coolant temp/MAT, and MAP signals all do the same thing.
>There ain't no short cuts, reprogramming done right, takes time.
>Bruce
>
>
>>Sounds like there is a lot of pent up UEGO talent out there.  Here is an
>>idea for a product that about half of us could really use right now  (I'd
>>buy two if I could find such an animal).   Picture
>>this........................................................you are
working
>>on a GM style MAP based system, that is to be converted to artificial
>>aspiration.  Perhaps it was originally artificially aspirated, or perhaps
>it
>>was not.   Once the basic control "system" is in place, you and I are
still
>>faced with the challenge of remappping the open loop VE tables.
Remapping
>>the VE's can be done labouriously, through data logging, and post hex
>>editing.
>>
>>What about a control box which would take a UEGO signal, and perform an
>>appropriate transform equation, and then export the resultant signal to an
>>output port which one could connect to the O2 sensor pin of an OEM  MAP
>>computer.    The goal would be to make an artificial setpoint (say 11.5:1
>>A/F ratio) appear to the OEM computer as stoich.  If this were possible,
>>then one could use the OEM computer to generate BLM's and iteratively
(read
>>this as safely) reach the perfect "MAP" while driving, or while on a
>chassis
>>dyno.  Imagine, in one afternoon, you could do the work of several days.
>>This would even help the normally aspirated guys.
>>
>>Just food for thought.  If anyone comes up with one of these (or knows
>where
>>I can find one)  then let me know, please.
>>
>>
>>
>>Thanks;
>>Walt.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
>>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>>Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 9:39 PM
>>Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff
>>
>>
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: Raymond C Drouillard <cosmic.ray@juno.com>
>>>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>>>Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 11:39 PM
>>>Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff
>>>
>>>Gee, sounds so easy.  Hmm, care to whip up a ION?.
>>>I certainly hope you weren't making light of Steve's work.
>>>Bruce
>>>
>>>
>>>>I would buy one.  Of course, if I happen to "stumble" across a design
>>>>before the kit is available, I would simply build it myself.  The
>>>>circuitry on a UEGO isn't all that complicated.  In its most basic form,
>>>>it is a single op-amp and a few discretes.  Add a few more components
for
>>>>a double-ended power supply, something to shut off the ion pump when
it's
>>>>not warm, something to regulate the heater, and you have it.
>>>>
>>>>Ray Drouillard
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>On Sat, 30 Jan 1999 14:25:13 -0600 Steve Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
>>>>writes:
>>>>>If one would come as a kit for under $200.00 with sensor. How many
>>>>>would
>>>>>buy the kit ? No sense to design if one if no one was interested in a
>>>>>wide O2 meter.
>>>>>
>>>>>Steve
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike Pitts wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Any interest?  Is this a waste of bandwidth?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "This invention provides an self-calibrating buffer amplifier
>>>>>> for a Universal Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor interface circuit
>>>>>> which couples and processes a voltage signal proportional
>>>>>> to pumping cell current to a level and reference voltage suitable
>>>>>> for input to an A-to-D convertor. The goal of this invention is to
>>>>>> increase the accuracy of air-to-fuel ratio control by continually
>>>>>> correcting for the effects of offset quantities in the amplifier
>>>>>> stage necessary to the interface circuitry. This goal is
>>>>>accomplished
>>>>>> by an approach which effectively generates and subtracts these
>>>>>> offset quantities from the processed signal. "
>>>>>>
>>>>>> http://patent.womplex.ibm.com/details?pn=US05211154__
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -Mike
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>___________________________________________________________________
>>>>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>>>>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>>>>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>>>>
>>>
>>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 19:12:02 1999
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In a message dated 2/1/99 3:10:31 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
tc75918@hprs9.msc.az.boeing.com writes:

<< Forgetting for the moment about the specific machiningg, adapters, etc that
 would be required to physically hook it up, is it possible or feasible 
 to make it work outside of an automatic trans?  Is it's hydraulic fluid
 supply sealed inside the convertor?  Could you fill the convertor and
 seal it and expect it to work for very long or does it need a continuous
 flow of fluid for cooling?  If so, would pressure need to be modulated
 for any reason or does it just need a continuous flow?
 
 thanks for any info
 --Dan
  >>
you should expect to provide some cooling fluid flow depending on
the stall speed and if you will have a lockup converter you will need
to control that with fluid pressure.

Your best bet is to take a front pump and converter from a donor
tranmission.

James

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 19:25:47 1999
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@idirect.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 19:24:18 -0800
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The "gizmo",  would be used as part of a specific remapping procedure.  All
of the details are outlined in a response to Bruce's similar
question/statement.  You could not use this approach while the computer was
in open loop.  It has to be "forced" into artificial closed loop for tuning
purposes.  I am always interested in automating the recalibration process.
See the other message, and feel free if you have thoughts/comments.

Walt.


-----Original Message-----
From: Stuart Bunning <stuart@kenelec.com.au>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, January 31, 1999 11:51 PM
Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)


>
>Sounds Good But wouldn't this only work for OPEN LOOP mode??
>
>Once you nail it of your car is cold and hasn't enable closed loop mode
even
>if the ECU still generated BLM's at WOT or cruise when cold based on O2
>sencor voltage it doesn't alter fueling to try to stay at 14.7:1 anyway. or
>am i wrong ????
>
>
>
>>What about a control box which would take a UEGO signal, and perform an
>>appropriate transform equation, and then export the resultant signal to an
>>output port which one could connect to the O2 sensor pin of an OEM  MAP
>>computer.    The goal would be to make an artificial setpoint (say 11.5:1
>>A/F ratio) appear to the OEM computer as stoich.  If this were possible,
>>then one could use the OEM computer to generate BLM's and iteratively
(read
>>this as safely) reach the perfect "MAP" while driving, or while on a
chassis
>>dyno.  Imagine, in one afternoon, you could do the work of several days.
>>This would even help the normally aspirated guys.
>>
>
>
>Best Regards,
>
>STUART BUNNING
>SALES ENGINEER
>KENELEC PTY LTD
>
>23-25 REDLAND DRIVE
>MITCHAM VICTORIA 3132
>AUSTRALIA
>
>PHONE:  61 3 9873 1022
>FAX:    61 3 9873 0200
>EMAIL:  stuart@kenelec.com.au
>WEB:    http://www.kenelec.com.au/
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 19:31:10 1999
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@idirect.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
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Thank-you.  Where could I find more information regarding the "Field
SFC-VTEC" controller?

Walt.


-----Original Message-----
From: Wen Yen Chan <chanwe@ecf.utoronto.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 7:06 AM
Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)


>Hello,
>
>Checkout the Field SFC-VTEC controller. In addition to allowing you to
>change the VTEC cut-over point it allows some adjustments (the transfer
>function can be a non linear function of engine speed and map) to
>be made to the fuel curves.
>
>On Mon, 1 Feb 1999, Bruce Plecan wrote:
>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Walter Sherwin <wsherwin@idirect.com>
>> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>> Date: Sunday, January 31, 1999 9:13 PM
>> Subject: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
>>
>> This idea, just universally raises the entire table.  Seldon is what is
>> needed.
>> Playing with the coolant temp/MAT, and MAP signals all do the same thing.
>> There ain't no short cuts, reprogramming done right, takes time.
>> Bruce
>>
>>
>> >Sounds like there is a lot of pent up UEGO talent out there.  Here is an
>> >idea for a product that about half of us could really use right now
(I'd
>> >buy two if I could find such an animal).   Picture
>> >this........................................................you are
working
>> >on a GM style MAP based system, that is to be converted to artificial
>> >aspiration.  Perhaps it was originally artificially aspirated, or
perhaps
>> it
>> >was not.   Once the basic control "system" is in place, you and I are
still
>> >faced with the challenge of remappping the open loop VE tables.
Remapping
>> >the VE's can be done labouriously, through data logging, and post hex
>> >editing.
>> >
>> >What about a control box which would take a UEGO signal, and perform an
>> >appropriate transform equation, and then export the resultant signal to
an
>> >output port which one could connect to the O2 sensor pin of an OEM  MAP
>> >computer.    The goal would be to make an artificial setpoint (say
11.5:1
>> >A/F ratio) appear to the OEM computer as stoich.  If this were possible,
>> >then one could use the OEM computer to generate BLM's and iteratively
(read
>> >this as safely) reach the perfect "MAP" while driving, or while on a
>> chassis
>> >dyno.  Imagine, in one afternoon, you could do the work of several days.
>> >This would even help the normally aspirated guys.
>> >
>> >Just food for thought.  If anyone comes up with one of these (or knows
>> where
>> >I can find one)  then let me know, please.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >Thanks;
>> >Walt.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >-----Original Message-----
>> >From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
>> >To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>> >Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 9:39 PM
>> >Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff
>> >
>> >
>> >>
>> >>-----Original Message-----
>> >>From: Raymond C Drouillard <cosmic.ray@juno.com>
>> >>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>> >>Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 11:39 PM
>> >>Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff
>> >>
>> >>Gee, sounds so easy.  Hmm, care to whip up a ION?.
>> >>I certainly hope you weren't making light of Steve's work.
>> >>Bruce
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>>I would buy one.  Of course, if I happen to "stumble" across a design
>> >>>before the kit is available, I would simply build it myself.  The
>> >>>circuitry on a UEGO isn't all that complicated.  In its most basic
form,
>> >>>it is a single op-amp and a few discretes.  Add a few more components
for
>> >>>a double-ended power supply, something to shut off the ion pump when
it's
>> >>>not warm, something to regulate the heater, and you have it.
>> >>>
>> >>>Ray Drouillard
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>On Sat, 30 Jan 1999 14:25:13 -0600 Steve Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
>> >>>writes:
>> >>>>If one would come as a kit for under $200.00 with sensor. How many
>> >>>>would
>> >>>>buy the kit ? No sense to design if one if no one was interested in a
>> >>>>wide O2 meter.
>> >>>>
>> >>>>Steve
>> >>>>
>> >>>>Mike Pitts wrote:
>> >>>>
>> >>>>> Any interest?  Is this a waste of bandwidth?
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> "This invention provides an self-calibrating buffer amplifier
>> >>>>> for a Universal Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor interface circuit
>> >>>>> which couples and processes a voltage signal proportional
>> >>>>> to pumping cell current to a level and reference voltage suitable
>> >>>>> for input to an A-to-D convertor. The goal of this invention is to
>> >>>>> increase the accuracy of air-to-fuel ratio control by continually
>> >>>>> correcting for the effects of offset quantities in the amplifier
>> >>>>> stage necessary to the interface circuitry. This goal is
>> >>>>accomplished
>> >>>>> by an approach which effectively generates and subtracts these
>> >>>>> offset quantities from the processed signal. "
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> http://patent.womplex.ibm.com/details?pn=US05211154__
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> -Mike
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>
>> >>>___________________________________________________________________
>> >>>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>> >>>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at
http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>> >>>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >
>>
>>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 20:02:49 1999
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From: "Gwyn Reedy" <mgr@mgrcorp.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: TC's and manual trans (was: Re: Smooth strategy)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 19:57:53 -0500
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Take a WWII tank or a 40's Chrysler product with 'fluid drive' and you have
a fluid coupling with a standard transmission.

Gwyn Reedy
Brandon, Florida
mailto:mgr@mgrcorp.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Greg
> Hermann
> Sent: Monday, February 01, 1999 6:19 PM
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: TC's and manual trans (was: Re: Smooth strategy)
>
>
> >Shannen Durphey wrote:
> >>
> >> If you have any chances to roll around some of the car shows with well
> >> restored examples from the early 40's to late 50's, you'll see that
> >> the upper scale cars were designed to be very smooth.  In the
> >> transmissions, there were vacuum powered clutches, variable speed
> >> transmissions, standard trans with torque converters. Even
> >                 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> >
> >Oooh!, the magic words.  I was just about to ask about this.  Can
> >anyone give me some info or point me to a source about torque convertors
> >and how exactly they work.  Are these tightly interdependant on an
> >automatic trans (because of the fluid used) or could they possibly be
> >used independantly?  I.e., adapted for use on a manual trans.
> >
> >Forgetting for the moment about the specific machiningg,
> adapters, etc that
> >would be required to physically hook it up, is it possible or feasible
> >to make it work outside of an automatic trans?  Is it's hydraulic fluid
> >supply sealed inside the convertor?  Could you fill the convertor and
> >seal it and expect it to work for very long or does it need a continuous
> >flow of fluid for cooling?  If so, would pressure need to be modulated
> >for any reason or does it just need a continuous flow?
> >
> >thanks for any info
> >--Dan
>
> Don't recall whatinell they called it, but for a while Porsche
> used a fluid
> coupling AND a vacuum operated clutch (which was triggered by a
> microswitch
> on the manual shift lever) in front of a manual tranny in the 911's. The
> fluid coupling ran in engine oil, IIRC. (A fluid coupling does
> not multiply
> torque, has only two elements, called pump and turbine.)
>
> Easiest way to think of how one works (at least for me) is to think of a
> centrifugal pump driving a centrifugal turbine--and then eliminate the two
> housings, and all the attendant weight and inefficiencies, by
> just wrapping
> the impeller and turbine wheels into a taurus shape, and mounting
> them face
> to face.
>
> Regards, Greg
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 20:09:01 1999
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: injector flow 
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 02:09:41 +0100
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Check out this injector flow carts from Auto speed newsletter:
http://www.autospeed.com/A_0102/P_1/article.html
Espen

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 20:13:28 1999
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: injector flow 
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 02:09:41 +0100
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Check out this injector flow carts from Auto speed newsletter:
http://www.autospeed.com/A_0102/P_1/article.html
Espen

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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 20:57:24 -0500
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-----Original Message-----
From: Walter Sherwin <wsherwin@idirect.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)

This cal with everything turned off would be the first trick.
The only systems I have a clue about are gm so I speaking specifically about
them.
If your serious about even trying then I suggest you look at a
aussie 808 since it uses the least code, and has room to
write on the existing bin..

Would seem to me, just using a piggy back devise using the EGOR
would be the ticket.  Just use a Stamp/Pic and monitor the O2.
Reverse engineering a prom to disable it is alot of work, and I've
been warned that deleting to much can cause "routine" problems.
One thing I think would work is using a series of 555s for fuel,
and the oem box for timing.
Bruce


>Not quite Bruce.  Picture the following "Remapping"
>procedure...............................
>
>Create a cal which defeats all of the A/F modifiers such as AE, EGR, ECT,
>etc.   Also, disable open loop PE enrichment so that the computer stays in
>closed loop under all conditions.  Basically, you would now have a VE
driven
>cal, with closed loop correction capability.   But, instead of "learning"
>towards stoich, the system would learn towards a safe setpoint (of say
>11.5:1) defined by the electronic gizmo I had proposed.   You could never
>map a turbo/supercharged car to stoich, but 11.5 should be safe under most
>conditions.
>
>Warm the engine, and verify that it is indeed in closed loop.  Attach the
>little gizmo and drive the vehicle.  As you drive, the computer will
iterate
>towards a set of BLM's.  Stop every once in awhile, and check that you have
>covered all of the  BLM cells and  perhaps even massage some of the raw VE
>tables in order to help speed up the process.  When you are done, you will
>have a VE map of correct "shape", but incorrect "magnitude".
>
>When you are happy with the BLM learning exercise, then you must  shift the
>new VE map to reflect stoich rather than the atrificial setpoint.  This is
>just a ratiometric number crunching exercise that is easily handled in
>something like Exel, or Lotus, with data parsing.
>
>After  the "new" map has been dumped into the cal, restore the A/F
modifiers
>and PE function, and PRESTO, you would have a pretty good baseline cal that
>you can begin to fine tune.  This is similar to the procedure that I use
for
>remapping my MAP based projects, but that elusive little electronic gizmo
>would make my life a lot easier and would eliminate a lot of iterative data
>manipulation.
>
>Any thoughts, suggestions, recommendations?   Again,  build a wide band A/F
>meter that can emulate a zirconia oxygen sensor, and accommodate a user
>setpoint, and much of the world could be at your doorstep.
>
>
>
>Walt.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 6:16 AM
>Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
>
>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Walter Sherwin <wsherwin@idirect.com>
>>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>>Date: Sunday, January 31, 1999 9:13 PM
>>Subject: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
>>
>>This idea, just universally raises the entire table.  Seldon is what is
>>needed.
>>Playing with the coolant temp/MAT, and MAP signals all do the same thing.
>>There ain't no short cuts, reprogramming done right, takes time.
>>Bruce
>>
>>
>>>Sounds like there is a lot of pent up UEGO talent out there.  Here is an
>>>idea for a product that about half of us could really use right now  (I'd
>>>buy two if I could find such an animal).   Picture
>>>this........................................................you are
>working
>>>on a GM style MAP based system, that is to be converted to artificial
>>>aspiration.  Perhaps it was originally artificially aspirated, or perhaps
>>it
>>>was not.   Once the basic control "system" is in place, you and I are
>still
>>>faced with the challenge of remappping the open loop VE tables.
>Remapping
>>>the VE's can be done labouriously, through data logging, and post hex
>>>editing.
>>>
>>>What about a control box which would take a UEGO signal, and perform an
>>>appropriate transform equation, and then export the resultant signal to
an
>>>output port which one could connect to the O2 sensor pin of an OEM  MAP
>>>computer.    The goal would be to make an artificial setpoint (say 11.5:1
>>>A/F ratio) appear to the OEM computer as stoich.  If this were possible,
>>>then one could use the OEM computer to generate BLM's and iteratively
>(read
>>>this as safely) reach the perfect "MAP" while driving, or while on a
>>chassis
>>>dyno.  Imagine, in one afternoon, you could do the work of several days.
>>>This would even help the normally aspirated guys.
>>>
>>>Just food for thought.  If anyone comes up with one of these (or knows
>>where
>>>I can find one)  then let me know, please.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Thanks;
>>>Walt.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
>>>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>>>Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 9:39 PM
>>>Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>>From: Raymond C Drouillard <cosmic.ray@juno.com>
>>>>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>>>>Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 11:39 PM
>>>>Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff
>>>>
>>>>Gee, sounds so easy.  Hmm, care to whip up a ION?.
>>>>I certainly hope you weren't making light of Steve's work.
>>>>Bruce
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I would buy one.  Of course, if I happen to "stumble" across a design
>>>>>before the kit is available, I would simply build it myself.  The
>>>>>circuitry on a UEGO isn't all that complicated.  In its most basic
form,
>>>>>it is a single op-amp and a few discretes.  Add a few more components
>for
>>>>>a double-ended power supply, something to shut off the ion pump when
>it's
>>>>>not warm, something to regulate the heater, and you have it.
>>>>>
>>>>>Ray Drouillard
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>On Sat, 30 Jan 1999 14:25:13 -0600 Steve Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
>>>>>writes:
>>>>>>If one would come as a kit for under $200.00 with sensor. How many
>>>>>>would
>>>>>>buy the kit ? No sense to design if one if no one was interested in a
>>>>>>wide O2 meter.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Steve
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Mike Pitts wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Any interest?  Is this a waste of bandwidth?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> "This invention provides an self-calibrating buffer amplifier
>>>>>>> for a Universal Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor interface circuit
>>>>>>> which couples and processes a voltage signal proportional
>>>>>>> to pumping cell current to a level and reference voltage suitable
>>>>>>> for input to an A-to-D convertor. The goal of this invention is to
>>>>>>> increase the accuracy of air-to-fuel ratio control by continually
>>>>>>> correcting for the effects of offset quantities in the amplifier
>>>>>>> stage necessary to the interface circuitry. This goal is
>>>>>>accomplished
>>>>>>> by an approach which effectively generates and subtracts these
>>>>>>> offset quantities from the processed signal. "
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> http://patent.womplex.ibm.com/details?pn=US05211154__
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> -Mike
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>___________________________________________________________________
>>>>>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>>>>>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at
http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>>>>>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 21:05:41 1999
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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 21:00:35 -0500
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
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Subject: Re: TC's and manual trans (was: Re: Smooth strategy)
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Greg Hermann wrote:
> 
> >Shannen Durphey wrote:
> >>
> >> If you have any chances to roll around some of the car shows with well
> >> restored examples from the early 40's to late 50's, you'll see that
> >> the upper scale cars were designed to be very smooth.  In the
> >> transmissions, there were vacuum powered clutches, variable speed
> >> transmissions, standard trans with torque converters. Even
> >                 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> >
> >Oooh!, the magic words.  I was just about to ask about this.  Can
> >anyone give me some info or point me to a source about torque convertors
> >and how exactly they work.  Are these tightly interdependant on an
> >automatic trans (because of the fluid used) or could they possibly be
> >used independantly?  I.e., adapted for use on a manual trans.
> >
> >Forgetting for the moment about the specific machiningg, adapters, etc that
> >would be required to physically hook it up, is it possible or feasible
> >to make it work outside of an automatic trans?  Is it's hydraulic fluid
> >supply sealed inside the convertor?  Could you fill the convertor and
> >seal it and expect it to work for very long or does it need a continuous
> >flow of fluid for cooling?  If so, would pressure need to be modulated
> >for any reason or does it just need a continuous flow?
> >
> >thanks for any info
> >--Dan
> 
> Don't recall whatinell they called it, but for a while Porsche used a fluid
> coupling AND a vacuum operated clutch (which was triggered by a microswitch
> on the manual shift lever) in front of a manual tranny in the 911's. The
> fluid coupling ran in engine oil, IIRC. (A fluid coupling does not multiply
> torque, has only two elements, called pump and turbine.)
> 
> Easiest way to think of how one works (at least for me) is to think of a
> centrifugal pump driving a centrifugal turbine--and then eliminate the two
> housings, and all the attendant weight and inefficiencies, by just wrapping
> the impeller and turbine wheels into a taurus shape, and mounting them face
> to face.
> 
> Regards, Greg

1952 Dodge or Chrysler had TC+Manual.  In order to engage gears or
shift you used the clutch, but once you were in gear, you didn't have
to press the clutch again.  Pretty fragile, so say those in the know. 
Legendary Tucker had torque converter at either rear wheel.
Big difference between torque converter and fluid coupling is the
addition of the stator, which redirects fluid from the "turbine" above
back to the "pump" in the direction of pump rotation, multiplying the
effective torque of the engine.

Don't know many details about the Chrysler setup,(just some old
stories) but auto trans' TC gets fluid from the transmission, and when
there's a heavy load applied, there's a lot of heat generation going
on there.  Lotsa mechanics have seen overheated TCs that have become
discolored.  Those designs need sufficient cooling.  Vegas had holes
in the trans housing and a fan spot welded to the converter to
circulate air.

I'm looking at a reference book called "Automatic Transmissions", by
John C White, ISBN# 0-8273-2606-8, which has good torque converter
info.  There are past issues of "Cars and Parts" which discuss the old
Dodge transmissions pretty heavily, although there seem to be a few
variations on that one.

The reverse of this is a clutched automatic, which for racing would be
fully manual.
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 21:41:25 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Stuart Bunning <stuart@kenelec.com.au>
Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
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This sounds GREAT.

In my situation I am about to start my car for the first time with EFI.

I have used a stop watch and timed how long my car idled with just the fuel
in the fuel bowl of the carby until it stalled. I then measured the fuel
capacity of the fuel bowl in the carby. I have removed the carby and
installed the TBI and now (havn't done this yet) are going to keep altering
the VE table until the base pulse width for the injectors will supply the
same amount of fuel as my carby did at idle over the same time period.
Hopefully I will be able to start the car and it will idle. The problem is
if I change RPM or load of the engine ( touch the trottle ) I would
instantly go lean. If I was to set the entire VE map the same maybe your
approach will enable to use BLM numbers to adjust the rest of my map.  

Comments and criticism is appreciated....


>Create a cal which defeats all of the A/F modifiers such as AE, EGR, ECT,
>etc.   Also, disable open loop PE enrichment so that the computer stays in
>closed loop under all conditions.  Basically, you would now have a VE driven
>cal, with closed loop correction capability.   But, instead of "learning"
>towards stoich, the system would learn towards a safe setpoint (of say
>11.5:1) defined by the electronic gizmo I had proposed.   You could never
>map a turbo/supercharged car to stoich, but 11.5 should be safe under most
>conditions.


Best Regards,

STUART BUNNING
SALES ENGINEER
KENELEC PTY LTD

23-25 REDLAND DRIVE
MITCHAM VICTORIA 3132
AUSTRALIA

PHONE:  61 3 9873 1022
FAX:    61 3 9873 0200
EMAIL:  stuart@kenelec.com.au
WEB:    http://www.kenelec.com.au/


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 22:01:23 1999
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Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 22:06:25 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Todd Israels <israels@MNSi.Net>
Subject: Re: Different Strokes
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At 10:44 PM 1/31/99 -0600, you wrote:
>
>
>David Sagers wrote:
>
>> In a conversation with the machine shop this afternoon the engine
builder said I should consider going with a shorter stroke.  I can build a
4" stroke 434 ci, a 3.75" 406 ci, or a 3.48" stroke 355 ci engine.  The
block I have is already clearanced for the 4" stroke so the additional cost
of preparing the block isn't a factor.   I already own the 4" crank and
rods, and the crank can be traded out for a shorter stroke without any
additional cost.
>
>The SBC needs longer rods. The local 434 alcohol motors turn 7500+ and
make 675+ HP w/ a 4BBL and a Donovan aluminum block. The longer stroke
motors are hard on blocks and cranks, stock blocks won't last at all in a
432. 410s are now the rage. I have also seen a 355 (400 block 327 crank) at
11000 rpm. 383s, and 377s. Mine is a 6" rod 406. Turbo motors need
extremely strong bottom ends.  IMHO, the 432 will break the block a 6000
rpm w/ 15 lbs boost,
>and the crank will be gone too. Go with the 406 or smaller.   just another
$.02   Tom
>
>
>
	Just another thought on this subject I would think traction and
driveability at lower RPM would be important.  I would have the car run as
normal untill about 2000RPM then wake up and go like crazy to 5000RPM or
so.  This will give good driveability  in traffic and such and still run
strong.  This is the aproch I am using for my project A V8 Fiero.  I wont
be using a turbo but plan to use EFI to make a V8 run good off its cam and
light up when I need (want) it.  
	I drove a 355 Fiero and it started to drizzle, we could hardly leave a
light or turn a corner without the rear breaking losse.  The owner rarely
drives the car and says he liked the original 350 2Barrel from a pickup
better than the 355 monster it became.  
	Just a thought on what will make the better street car.  Good Luck with
your project.  
			Todd Israels



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Subject: Re: TC's and manual trans (was: Re: Smooth strategy)
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d houlton x0710 wrote:
> 
> Shannen Durphey wrote:
> >
> > If you have any chances to roll around some of the car shows with well
> > restored examples from the early 40's to late 50's, you'll see that
> > the upper scale cars were designed to be very smooth.  In the
> > transmissions, there were vacuum powered clutches, variable speed
> > transmissions, standard trans with torque converters. Even
>                  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> 
> Oooh!, the magic words.  I was just about to ask about this.  Can
> anyone give me some info or point me to a source about torque convertors
> and how exactly they work.  Are these tightly interdependant on an
> automatic trans (because of the fluid used) or could they possibly be
> used independantly?  I.e., adapted for use on a manual trans.
> 
> Forgetting for the moment about the specific machiningg, adapters, etc that
> would be required to physically hook it up, is it possible or feasible
> to make it work outside of an automatic trans?  Is it's hydraulic fluid
> supply sealed inside the convertor?  Could you fill the convertor and
> seal it and expect it to work for very long or does it need a continuous
> flow of fluid for cooling?  If so, would pressure need to be modulated
> for any reason or does it just need a continuous flow?
> 
> thanks for any info
> --Dan
Actually, the manual trans used a fluid coupling, not a torque
convrerter. Hy-Drive was one example, on the plymouth. The fluid
coupling is a 2 element design and does NOT amplify torque. This was
used on the original Powerglide and Hydramatic as well. Also called a
torus, the fluid coupling is basically two fans - one blowing at the
other. Using oil instead of air, and enclosing them in a housing
increases the effisiency - just a little bit. A split "guide ring" in
some models reduced the turbulence, helping efficiency a bit more. The
dual coupling hydramatic used two of these couplings, one large and one
small - which also acted as clutches for the automatic by running one
full and one empty.On later Hydramatics, there was a third member added
to the torus, called a multiplier. In these fluid couplings, the vanes
were basically straight, except fotr the bultiplier which had vanes at a
45 degree angle. This was ALMOST a torque converter. The torque
converter is a fluid coupling, with curved blades. The blades meet like
the treads on a tractor tire so the oil thrown off the drive
turbine(pump or impeller) gets caught in a "bucket" on the load turbine.
Efficiency is much higher with a torque converter. Very few torque
converters were two element, as the "stator", analogous to the
multiplier, was so much more effective with the curved blades. Instead
of the oil coming off the turbine trying to slow down the impeller, it
is redirected to the turbine, giving off more of it's energy the second
time round.
The ford-o-matic was one of the first to use a three member TQ, along
with later Powerglides,torque-flytes and cruise-o-matics..
Lockup TQs are nothing new - Studebaker used a 4 member TQ in the late
50s or early sixties with a direct drive clutch.The Dynaflow used a 4
member TQ - or twin turbine converter.Early PowerFlytes were also 4
unit. Some of these used a variable pitch turbine. The early Powerglide
and Turboglide used 5 member converters - two pumps, two stators, and
one turbine.
Just a "short" history and description of the Torque converter.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 22:35:46 1999
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Curious...........how do you "Remap" a GM MAP based system at CSH Central?

Walt.


-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Walter Sherwin <wsherwin@idirect.com>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 7:08 PM
>Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
>
>This cal with everything turned off would be the first trick.
>The only systems I have a clue about are gm so I speaking specifically
about
>them.
>If your serious about even trying then I suggest you look at a
>aussie 808 since it uses the least code, and has room to
>write on the existing bin..
>
>Would seem to me, just using a piggy back devise using the EGOR
>would be the ticket.  Just use a Stamp/Pic and monitor the O2.
>Reverse engineering a prom to disable it is alot of work, and I've
>been warned that deleting to much can cause "routine" problems.
>One thing I think would work is using a series of 555s for fuel,
>and the oem box for timing.
>Bruce
>
>
>>Not quite Bruce.  Picture the following "Remapping"
>>procedure...............................
>>
>>Create a cal which defeats all of the A/F modifiers such as AE, EGR, ECT,
>>etc.   Also, disable open loop PE enrichment so that the computer stays in
>>closed loop under all conditions.  Basically, you would now have a VE
>driven
>>cal, with closed loop correction capability.   But, instead of "learning"
>>towards stoich, the system would learn towards a safe setpoint (of say
>>11.5:1) defined by the electronic gizmo I had proposed.   You could never
>>map a turbo/supercharged car to stoich, but 11.5 should be safe under most
>>conditions.
>>
>>Warm the engine, and verify that it is indeed in closed loop.  Attach the
>>little gizmo and drive the vehicle.  As you drive, the computer will
>iterate
>>towards a set of BLM's.  Stop every once in awhile, and check that you
have
>>covered all of the  BLM cells and  perhaps even massage some of the raw VE
>>tables in order to help speed up the process.  When you are done, you will
>>have a VE map of correct "shape", but incorrect "magnitude".
>>
>>When you are happy with the BLM learning exercise, then you must  shift
the
>>new VE map to reflect stoich rather than the atrificial setpoint.  This is
>>just a ratiometric number crunching exercise that is easily handled in
>>something like Exel, or Lotus, with data parsing.
>>
>>After  the "new" map has been dumped into the cal, restore the A/F
>modifiers
>>and PE function, and PRESTO, you would have a pretty good baseline cal
that
>>you can begin to fine tune.  This is similar to the procedure that I use
>for
>>remapping my MAP based projects, but that elusive little electronic gizmo
>>would make my life a lot easier and would eliminate a lot of iterative
data
>>manipulation.
>>
>>Any thoughts, suggestions, recommendations?   Again,  build a wide band
A/F
>>meter that can emulate a zirconia oxygen sensor, and accommodate a user
>>setpoint, and much of the world could be at your doorstep.
>>
>>
>>
>>Walt.
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
>>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>>Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 6:16 AM
>>Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
>>
>>
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: Walter Sherwin <wsherwin@idirect.com>
>>>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>>>Date: Sunday, January 31, 1999 9:13 PM
>>>Subject: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
>>>
>>>This idea, just universally raises the entire table.  Seldon is what is
>>>needed.
>>>Playing with the coolant temp/MAT, and MAP signals all do the same thing.
>>>There ain't no short cuts, reprogramming done right, takes time.
>>>Bruce
>>>
>>>
>>>>Sounds like there is a lot of pent up UEGO talent out there.  Here is an
>>>>idea for a product that about half of us could really use right now
(I'd
>>>>buy two if I could find such an animal).   Picture
>>>>this........................................................you are
>>working
>>>>on a GM style MAP based system, that is to be converted to artificial
>>>>aspiration.  Perhaps it was originally artificially aspirated, or
perhaps
>>>it
>>>>was not.   Once the basic control "system" is in place, you and I are
>>still
>>>>faced with the challenge of remappping the open loop VE tables.
>>Remapping
>>>>the VE's can be done labouriously, through data logging, and post hex
>>>>editing.
>>>>
>>>>What about a control box which would take a UEGO signal, and perform an
>>>>appropriate transform equation, and then export the resultant signal to
>an
>>>>output port which one could connect to the O2 sensor pin of an OEM  MAP
>>>>computer.    The goal would be to make an artificial setpoint (say
11.5:1
>>>>A/F ratio) appear to the OEM computer as stoich.  If this were possible,
>>>>then one could use the OEM computer to generate BLM's and iteratively
>>(read
>>>>this as safely) reach the perfect "MAP" while driving, or while on a
>>>chassis
>>>>dyno.  Imagine, in one afternoon, you could do the work of several days.
>>>>This would even help the normally aspirated guys.
>>>>
>>>>Just food for thought.  If anyone comes up with one of these (or knows
>>>where
>>>>I can find one)  then let me know, please.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Thanks;
>>>>Walt.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>>From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
>>>>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>>>>Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 9:39 PM
>>>>Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>>>From: Raymond C Drouillard <cosmic.ray@juno.com>
>>>>>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
><diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>>>>>Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 11:39 PM
>>>>>Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff
>>>>>
>>>>>Gee, sounds so easy.  Hmm, care to whip up a ION?.
>>>>>I certainly hope you weren't making light of Steve's work.
>>>>>Bruce
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>I would buy one.  Of course, if I happen to "stumble" across a design
>>>>>>before the kit is available, I would simply build it myself.  The
>>>>>>circuitry on a UEGO isn't all that complicated.  In its most basic
>form,
>>>>>>it is a single op-amp and a few discretes.  Add a few more components
>>for
>>>>>>a double-ended power supply, something to shut off the ion pump when
>>it's
>>>>>>not warm, something to regulate the heater, and you have it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Ray Drouillard
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>On Sat, 30 Jan 1999 14:25:13 -0600 Steve Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
>>>>>>writes:
>>>>>>>If one would come as a kit for under $200.00 with sensor. How many
>>>>>>>would
>>>>>>>buy the kit ? No sense to design if one if no one was interested in a
>>>>>>>wide O2 meter.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Steve
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Mike Pitts wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Any interest?  Is this a waste of bandwidth?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> "This invention provides an self-calibrating buffer amplifier
>>>>>>>> for a Universal Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor interface circuit
>>>>>>>> which couples and processes a voltage signal proportional
>>>>>>>> to pumping cell current to a level and reference voltage suitable
>>>>>>>> for input to an A-to-D convertor. The goal of this invention is to
>>>>>>>> increase the accuracy of air-to-fuel ratio control by continually
>>>>>>>> correcting for the effects of offset quantities in the amplifier
>>>>>>>> stage necessary to the interface circuitry. This goal is
>>>>>>>accomplished
>>>>>>>> by an approach which effectively generates and subtracts these
>>>>>>>> offset quantities from the processed signal. "
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> http://patent.womplex.ibm.com/details?pn=US05211154__
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> -Mike
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>___________________________________________________________________
>>>>>>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>>>>>>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at
>http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>>>>>>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 22:38:23 1999
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Subject: wanted corvette transmission
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I am looking for super T10 parts or the complete trans. It's a 4+3 for a
corvette.
If anyone can help me with some parts or a complete trans that you might have
laying around, It would sure help me out. My # is 706-547-0052, if no answer
please leave a message.
Thanks,
DETROIT AMERSON

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 22:53:12 1999
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Given the fact that I have a DYNO torque curve of a motor over it entire RPM
range for WOT 
I should be able to convert torque to VE as they are essently the same thing.
I would first assume for arguement sake my moter is 100% efficient at max
torque to simplify calculations and tweek it later.

With the above results I should be able to build one column in my VE map in
my 808 ECU. 
Would it be possible to somehow via math's calculations to work out (roughly) 
The VE numbers for all other load conditions. 

For example if at 3000RPM I have maximum torque at WOT 100% efficient could
I assume
that at 50KPA it would we only 50% efficient,25KPA 25% etc...

Will this work ( for atleast a means to build a CRUDE!!! VE map so I can
atleast start and drive the car slowly???)

I am starting from scratch generation a VE as the motor I have put EFI on
never had it from the factory so I don't have a factory MEMCAL to tweek...









Best Regards,

STUART BUNNING
SALES ENGINEER
KENELEC PTY LTD

23-25 REDLAND DRIVE
MITCHAM VICTORIA 3132
AUSTRALIA

PHONE:  61 3 9873 1022
FAX:    61 3 9873 0200
EMAIL:  stuart@kenelec.com.au
WEB:    http://www.kenelec.com.au/


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On Mon, 1 Feb 1999 19:57:53 -0500 "Gwyn Reedy" <mgr@mgrcorp.com> writes:
>Take a WWII tank or a 40's Chrysler product with 'fluid drive' and you
have
>a fluid coupling with a standard transmission.
>
>Gwyn Reedy
>Brandon, Florida
>mailto:mgr@mgrcorp.com

Mercedes also uses it in their Unimog 4X4 and 6X6 trucks.

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I have been wanting one of those gizmos for a long time, too. 
Unfortunately, I don't have the time right now to develop one, although I
have done enough design work on it to know what it will look like.  I
would much rather have a tested circuit or, better yet, a PC board.

Garfield had gotten one working and was in the middle of testing it when
he was flamed off the board.  Too bad... lots of people really wanted
that circuit.  Now, it would appear that a few people are trying it
again.  I wish them success, and hope that they get some return for their
effort.

Ray Drouillard


On Mon, 01 Feb 1999 16:18:59 GMT bob@bobthecomputerguy.com (Robert
Harris) writes:
>Ray, others - if the parts are about 20 bucks cept the UEGO and a board
first
>off - small quantity -is about 50 bucks - I'll take up a collection and
write
>you a check for several as soon as you are ready.  Don't forget to
include in
>the price pizza and a bucket of beer.
>
>Hell, all most of want is to:
>A: Understand the technology - we think its neat (dating myself)
>B: Use the technology for our thangs
>C: Acquire it without domestic budget consent
>
>Please don't misunderstand if some of us are very curious.  Saying its
doable
>affects some of us like showing up with a truck load of girl scout
cookies at
>a dirty old man in raincoats convention.   We NEED need need need want
want
>want pant pant oh oh oh - who's yor daddeeeeeee!!!!!  one.
>
>A quick consensus says 0 - 5 volts output - fine for meters etc
>
>O to 1 with Stoic about .5 makes it almost a drop in.
>
>And the adjustable crossing point - pleeeeze.  And hopefully
electronically
>setable so a stamp can control it.
>
>Most of us just want one, and if it turns into a viable commercial
opportunity
>for you, more power, just as long as C above applies.
>
>Thanking you in advance for your none look up the patent - it will only
be
>available to those willing to Monica the developer attitude and
approach.
>
>1963 Ford C-600 Prison Bus Conversion "Home"
>1971 Lincoln Continental 460 "Christine"
>1972 "Whale" Mustang awaiting transplant
>1978 Dodge Long Bed Peeek Up "Bundymobile"
>
>Habaneros - not just for breakfast anymore
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 22:59:34 1999
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Anyone out there with some real numbers as to pulse width range on port
injected engines? Need to know real life idle vs full throttle numbers.
Also, any idea what the VE of an average engine is at idle?
enquiring mind wants to know.
I know the theory behind it - just need some real numbers and I don't
have a scanner to get them with.
TIA

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 23:08:27 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 23:11:14 -0500
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-----Original Message-----
From: Walter Sherwin <wsherwin@idirect.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 10:50 PM
Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)

If you down load the Tunetip (both parts) from FTP 332, I explain it all.
Bruce


>Curious...........how do you "Remap" a GM MAP based system at CSH Central?
>
>Walt.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 6:33 PM
>Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
>
>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Walter Sherwin <wsherwin@idirect.com>
>>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>>Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 7:08 PM
>>Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
>>
>>This cal with everything turned off would be the first trick.
>>The only systems I have a clue about are gm so I speaking specifically
>about
>>them.
>>If your serious about even trying then I suggest you look at a
>>aussie 808 since it uses the least code, and has room to
>>write on the existing bin..
>>
>>Would seem to me, just using a piggy back devise using the EGOR
>>would be the ticket.  Just use a Stamp/Pic and monitor the O2.
>>Reverse engineering a prom to disable it is alot of work, and I've
>>been warned that deleting to much can cause "routine" problems.
>>One thing I think would work is using a series of 555s for fuel,
>>and the oem box for timing.
>>Bruce
>>
>>
>>>Not quite Bruce.  Picture the following "Remapping"
>>>procedure...............................
>>>
>>>Create a cal which defeats all of the A/F modifiers such as AE, EGR, ECT,
>>>etc.   Also, disable open loop PE enrichment so that the computer stays
in
>>>closed loop under all conditions.  Basically, you would now have a VE
>>driven
>>>cal, with closed loop correction capability.   But, instead of "learning"
>>>towards stoich, the system would learn towards a safe setpoint (of say
>>>11.5:1) defined by the electronic gizmo I had proposed.   You could never
>>>map a turbo/supercharged car to stoich, but 11.5 should be safe under
most
>>>conditions.
>>>
>>>Warm the engine, and verify that it is indeed in closed loop.  Attach the
>>>little gizmo and drive the vehicle.  As you drive, the computer will
>>iterate
>>>towards a set of BLM's.  Stop every once in awhile, and check that you
>have
>>>covered all of the  BLM cells and  perhaps even massage some of the raw
VE
>>>tables in order to help speed up the process.  When you are done, you
will
>>>have a VE map of correct "shape", but incorrect "magnitude".
>>>
>>>When you are happy with the BLM learning exercise, then you must  shift
>the
>>>new VE map to reflect stoich rather than the atrificial setpoint.  This
is
>>>just a ratiometric number crunching exercise that is easily handled in
>>>something like Exel, or Lotus, with data parsing.
>>>
>>>After  the "new" map has been dumped into the cal, restore the A/F
>>modifiers
>>>and PE function, and PRESTO, you would have a pretty good baseline cal
>that
>>>you can begin to fine tune.  This is similar to the procedure that I use
>>for
>>>remapping my MAP based projects, but that elusive little electronic gizmo
>>>would make my life a lot easier and would eliminate a lot of iterative
>data
>>>manipulation.
>>>
>>>Any thoughts, suggestions, recommendations?   Again,  build a wide band
>A/F
>>>meter that can emulate a zirconia oxygen sensor, and accommodate a user
>>>setpoint, and much of the world could be at your doorstep.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Walt.
>>>
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
>>>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>>>Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 6:16 AM
>>>Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>>From: Walter Sherwin <wsherwin@idirect.com>
>>>>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>>>>Date: Sunday, January 31, 1999 9:13 PM
>>>>Subject: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
>>>>
>>>>This idea, just universally raises the entire table.  Seldon is what is
>>>>needed.
>>>>Playing with the coolant temp/MAT, and MAP signals all do the same
thing.
>>>>There ain't no short cuts, reprogramming done right, takes time.
>>>>Bruce
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Sounds like there is a lot of pent up UEGO talent out there.  Here is
an
>>>>>idea for a product that about half of us could really use right now
>(I'd
>>>>>buy two if I could find such an animal).   Picture
>>>>>this........................................................you are
>>>working
>>>>>on a GM style MAP based system, that is to be converted to artificial
>>>>>aspiration.  Perhaps it was originally artificially aspirated, or
>perhaps
>>>>it
>>>>>was not.   Once the basic control "system" is in place, you and I are
>>>still
>>>>>faced with the challenge of remappping the open loop VE tables.
>>>Remapping
>>>>>the VE's can be done labouriously, through data logging, and post hex
>>>>>editing.
>>>>>
>>>>>What about a control box which would take a UEGO signal, and perform an
>>>>>appropriate transform equation, and then export the resultant signal to
>>an
>>>>>output port which one could connect to the O2 sensor pin of an OEM  MAP
>>>>>computer.    The goal would be to make an artificial setpoint (say
>11.5:1
>>>>>A/F ratio) appear to the OEM computer as stoich.  If this were
possible,
>>>>>then one could use the OEM computer to generate BLM's and iteratively
>>>(read
>>>>>this as safely) reach the perfect "MAP" while driving, or while on a
>>>>chassis
>>>>>dyno.  Imagine, in one afternoon, you could do the work of several
days.
>>>>>This would even help the normally aspirated guys.
>>>>>
>>>>>Just food for thought.  If anyone comes up with one of these (or knows
>>>>where
>>>>>I can find one)  then let me know, please.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Thanks;
>>>>>Walt.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>>>From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
>>>>>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
><diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>>>>>Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 9:39 PM
>>>>>Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>>>>From: Raymond C Drouillard <cosmic.ray@juno.com>
>>>>>>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>><diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>>>>>>Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 11:39 PM
>>>>>>Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Gee, sounds so easy.  Hmm, care to whip up a ION?.
>>>>>>I certainly hope you weren't making light of Steve's work.
>>>>>>Bruce
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>I would buy one.  Of course, if I happen to "stumble" across a design
>>>>>>>before the kit is available, I would simply build it myself.  The
>>>>>>>circuitry on a UEGO isn't all that complicated.  In its most basic
>>form,
>>>>>>>it is a single op-amp and a few discretes.  Add a few more components
>>>for
>>>>>>>a double-ended power supply, something to shut off the ion pump when
>>>it's
>>>>>>>not warm, something to regulate the heater, and you have it.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Ray Drouillard
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>On Sat, 30 Jan 1999 14:25:13 -0600 Steve Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
>>>>>>>writes:
>>>>>>>>If one would come as a kit for under $200.00 with sensor. How many
>>>>>>>>would
>>>>>>>>buy the kit ? No sense to design if one if no one was interested in
a
>>>>>>>>wide O2 meter.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Steve
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Mike Pitts wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Any interest?  Is this a waste of bandwidth?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> "This invention provides an self-calibrating buffer amplifier
>>>>>>>>> for a Universal Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor interface circuit
>>>>>>>>> which couples and processes a voltage signal proportional
>>>>>>>>> to pumping cell current to a level and reference voltage suitable
>>>>>>>>> for input to an A-to-D convertor. The goal of this invention is to
>>>>>>>>> increase the accuracy of air-to-fuel ratio control by continually
>>>>>>>>> correcting for the effects of offset quantities in the amplifier
>>>>>>>>> stage necessary to the interface circuitry. This goal is
>>>>>>>>accomplished
>>>>>>>>> by an approach which effectively generates and subtracts these
>>>>>>>>> offset quantities from the processed signal. "
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> http://patent.womplex.ibm.com/details?pn=US05211154__
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> -Mike
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>___________________________________________________________________
>>>>>>>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>>>>>>>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at
>>http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>>>>>>>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 23:34:39 1999
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From: "Curtis Mittong" <poohbear@twd.net>
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Subject: Chevy ECMs
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 23:35:58 -0500
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I have a 96 Impala SS with an LT1.  I also have a bare LT1 block that I plan
to bore and stroke to 409.  I already know about all of the mechanical
pitfalls I will hit, but wondered how much HP will the stock PCM handle with
reprogramming and about #52 injectors?  Will I be able to do it?  If not,
what PCM should I use?

Curtis

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a 96 Impala SS with an =
LT1.&nbsp; I also=20
have a bare LT1 block that I plan to bore and stroke to 409.&nbsp; I =
already=20
know about all of the mechanical pitfalls I will hit, but wondered how =
much HP=20
will the stock PCM handle with reprogramming and about #52 =
injectors?&nbsp; Will=20
I be able to do it?&nbsp; If not, what PCM should I use?</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Curtis</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 23:40:50 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: pulse widths and ve questions
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-----Original Message-----
From: Clarence L.Snyder <clare.snyder.on.ca@ibm.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 11:17 PM
Subject: pulse widths and ve questions


>Anyone out there with some real numbers as to pulse width range on port
>injected engines? Need to know real life idle vs full throttle numbers.

Idle 1.7-2.5msec., WOT 3,000rpm 11ish  6,000 8.5msec
Any TPS/MAP accleration enrichment 100% duty cycle possible.
THESE NUMBERS ARE VERY GENERALIZED.  They happen to
be common among several calibrations I've looked at, your results
may vary.
Bruce

>Also, any idea what the VE of an average engine is at idle?
>enquiring mind wants to know.
>I know the theory behind it - just need some real numbers and I don't
>have a scanner to get them with.
>TIA
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 23:47:27 1999
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On Mon, 1 Feb 1999, Gwyn Reedy wrote:

> Take a WWII tank...

More info on this, please.



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  1 23:48:14 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: PWM driver
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Interesting article at
http://www.penton.com/ed/Pages/magpages/jan1199/ifd/0111id.htm that has a
blurb on a pwm DC motor control.  It's not directly applicable, but it
does go into detail on its intended application.

There's also a simple circuit do generate 23v if you want to do a high
side driver for your pwm at
http://www.penton.com/ed/Pages/magpages/oct1298/pease/1012bp.htm figure 2.

Tom

On Mon, 1 Feb 1999 rauscher@icst.com wrote:

> 
> 
> I can throw together a circuit to do this. I've used PWM for DC motor
> control circuits before. How about a low side driver, it would be easier
> to do. (This is a switch that grounds the motor).
> 
> For input control, just an analog 0-12V for stopped to full on, with
> all speeds in-between.
> 
> I'll get it together and scanned hopefully before the week is out.
> 
> Oh, do fuel pumps really draw 15 Amps? Ouch.
> 
> One word of caution thou, PWM is electrically noisy. You will want to
> put the controller close to the pump, as not to disrupt every electrical
> device in your car.
> 
> BobR.
> 
> 
> 
> <snip>
> 
> Tom Sharpe wrote:
> 
> >How do you PWM a 15 amp load??? Someone design a circuit please. Can the driver
> >board be mase to work??
> >
> >TIA  TOM
> >
> ------------------------------
> 
> 


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Walter Sherwin wrote:

> Not quite Bruce.  Picture the following "Remapping"
> procedure...............................
>
> Create a cal which defeats all of the A/F modifiers such as AE, EGR, ECT,
> etc.   Also, disable open loop PE enrichment so that the computer stays in
> closed loop under all conditions.  Basically, you would now have a VE driven
> cal, with closed loop correction capability.   But, instead of "learning"
> towards stoich, the system would learn towards a safe setpoint (of say
> 11.5:1) defined by the electronic gizmo I had proposed.
> >>

If we are learning, let's learn 11.5:1  < 10" vacuum (MAP???) stoich at 15"+
vacuum (could learn lean burn also) and a straight line between them. Come up
with "standard" correction factors for H20 (warm up) and Air Temp and you're
done.

It's not really that simple, but close.....   Tom


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 00:01:35 1999
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From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: TC's and manual trans (was: Re: Smooth strategy)
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On Mon, 1 Feb 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote:

> Lotsa mechanics have seen overheated TCs that have become
> discolored.

Used to see many mopar high stall TCs in copcars with the reman
paint burnt off in the center, like a donut hole...


> Don't know many details about the Chrysler setup,(just some old
> stories) but auto trans' TC gets fluid from the transmission, and when
> there's a heavy load applied, there's a lot of heat generation going
> on there.  

> Dodge transmissions pretty heavily, although there seem to be a few
> variations on that one.
> 
Yes, they played lotsa games with the idea. Some of the convertors were
filled and sealed, then they gave that one up. Some were tied into the
engine oil system rather than the trans. Some used a 4 speed trans that
was full synchro and/or slickshifted. They even had some that were used
with hemi V8s. Great for turning gasoline into hot oil ;-) 



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>On Mon, 1 Feb 1999 19:57:53 -0500 "Gwyn Reedy" <mgr@mgrcorp.com> writes:
>>Take a WWII tank or a 40's Chrysler product with 'fluid drive' and you
>have
>>a fluid coupling with a standard transmission.
>>
>>Gwyn Reedy
>>Brandon, Florida
>>mailto:mgr@mgrcorp.com

Early four speed Hydra Matics (up to '56) (Also the boxes which got B&M
hydro started, and which were made famous by folks like Big John Mazmanian
& his Hemi-Willys coupe in the old A-Gas  NHRA class) used a two element
fluid coupling, which only carried about 45% of the torque in the top two
gears. The post '56 four speed H-M units had a second, smaller fluid
coupling as well as the main one. Forget exactly what it did.

Greg
>
>Mercedes also uses it in their Unimog 4X4 and 6X6 trucks.
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 00:15:13 1999
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From: "Ward Spoonemore" <spoonie@deltanet.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: pulse widths and ve questions
Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 21:15:28 -0800
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Pulse width's typically range from 800 usec to 18-19 msec.
Ward

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
[mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Clarence
L.Snyder
Sent: Monday, February 01, 1999 8:00 PM
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: pulse widths and ve questions


Anyone out there with some real numbers as to pulse width range on port
injected engines? Need to know real life idle vs full throttle numbers.
Also, any idea what the VE of an average engine is at idle?
enquiring mind wants to know.
I know the theory behind it - just need some real numbers and I don't
have a scanner to get them with.
TIA


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From: "Ross Myers" <ponty@axis.jeack.com.au>
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Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 16:37:48 +1100
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>Hi all,
>        I checked out the motec site (autronics also sell one) but these
>are too expensive for me .That is why I was hoping one could be built (even
>as a kit) at a fraction of the cost.Motecs unit is just right with the
>screen and sensor.
>Some of us race people are on tight budgets!
>PAUL


I know what you are saying Paul, but my point was if they felt the need for
a 32bit micro to run the thing something must be tricky.

Regards

Ross Myers


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 00:46:20 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)
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-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Sharpe <twsharpe@mtco.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 12:09 AM
Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)

Tell ya what over at syty they have programmer, and a complete editor
how about just telling me what you think needs defeated to do this.  Then
what code changes to keep it closed loop, and have enough range for
your mixture corrections.
   I'd like to see how you treat the IAC.
I'm not saying it can't be done, but man whatta bunch of work.
Bruce


>Walter Sherwin wrote:
>> Create a cal which defeats all of the A/F modifiers such as AE, EGR, ECT,
>> etc.   Also, disable open loop PE enrichment so that the computer stays
in
>> closed loop under all conditions.

> It's not really that simple, but close.....   Tom



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 00:54:25 1999
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-----Original Message-----
From: Ross Myers <ponty@axis.jeack.com.au>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 12:46 AM
Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff


My favorite quote, from a very good programmer,   "we throw code at it till
it works".
Bruce

>
>>        I checked out the motec site (autronics also sell one) but these
>>are too expensive for me .That is why I was hoping one could be built
(even
>>as a kit) at a fraction of the cost.Motecs unit is just right with the
>>screen and sensor.
>>Some of us race people are on tight budgets!
>>PAUL
>I know what you are saying Paul, but my point was if they felt the need for
>a 32bit micro to run the thing something must be tricky.
>Regards
>Ross Myers



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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Chevy ECMs
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 01:32:44 -0500
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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    -----Original Message-----
    From: Curtis Mittong <poohbear@twd.net>
    To: diy_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu =
<diy_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
    Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 11:48 PM
    Subject: Chevy ECMs
   =20
    52x8=3D416    416lbs/hr     .5lbs/HP     832HP.
    That's one heck of an engine, or oops on the math.
    Bruce
   =20
   =20
    I have a 96 Impala SS with an LT1.  I also have a bare LT1 block =
that I plan to bore and stroke to 409.  I already know about all of the =
mechanical pitfalls I will hit, but wondered how much HP will the stock =
PCM handle with reprogramming and about #52 injectors?  Will I be able =
to do it?  If not, what PCM should I use?
    Curtis

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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3612.1700"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Curtis Mittong &lt;<A=20
    href=3D"mailto:poohbear@twd.net">poohbear@twd.net</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: =
</B><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:diy_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu">diy_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio=
-state.edu</A>=20
    &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:diy_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu">diy_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio=
-state.edu</A>&gt;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Monday, February 01, 1999 11:48 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Chevy=20
    ECMs</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>52x8=3D416&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
    416lbs/hr&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; .5lbs/HP&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
    832HP.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>That's one heck of an engine, or =
oops on the=20
    math.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Bruce<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a 96 Impala SS with an =
LT1.&nbsp; I=20
    also have a bare LT1 block that I plan to bore and stroke to =
409.&nbsp; I=20
    already know about all of the mechanical pitfalls I will hit, but =
wondered=20
    how much HP will the stock PCM handle with reprogramming and about =
#52=20
    injectors?&nbsp; Will I be able to do it?&nbsp; If not, what PCM =
should I=20
    use?</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2>Curtis</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 06:35:09 1999
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From: "Gwyn Reedy" <mgr@mgrcorp.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Smooth strategy)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 06:30:13 -0500
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In 1956 the Hydra-matic got the second fluid coupling. Oldsmobile called it
'Jet-a-way' Hydramatic. It was internal to the transmission and replaced the
bands for the 2-3 shift. Instead of clamping (or releasing)the band, they
just filled or emptied the small coupling.

I remember it well, although I might have the 2-3 shift thing wrong.
Something else tells me that the coupling got 'used' twice during a complete
shift sequence. Purpose was to add smoothness to the shifts. TV ads touted
the engineering skill required to fill or empty the coupling in just one
second.

Was a high school kid at the time and devoured car magazines. The 56 Olds
had a one second slower 0-60 time than the 55, yet had about 25 more
horsepower. Thus we figured the extra fluid coupling was costing between 1
to 2 seconds. There were kids in my class whose families had both 55 and 56
models, so it got discussed a lot.

Gwyn Reedy
Brandon, Florida
mailto:mgr@mgrcorp.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Greg
> Hermann
> Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 12:02 AM
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: Smooth strategy)
>
>
> >On Mon, 1 Feb 1999 19:57:53 -0500 "Gwyn Reedy" <mgr@mgrcorp.com> writes:
> >>Take a WWII tank or a 40's Chrysler product with 'fluid drive' and you
> >have
> >>a fluid coupling with a standard transmission.
> >>
> >>Gwyn Reedy
> >>Brandon, Florida
> >>mailto:mgr@mgrcorp.com
>
> Early four speed Hydra Matics (up to '56) (Also the boxes which got B&M
> hydro started, and which were made famous by folks like Big John Mazmanian
> & his Hemi-Willys coupe in the old A-Gas  NHRA class) used a two element
> fluid coupling, which only carried about 45% of the torque in the top two
> gears. The post '56 four speed H-M units had a second, smaller fluid
> coupling as well as the main one. Forget exactly what it did.
>
> Greg
> >
> >Mercedes also uses it in their Unimog 4X4 and 6X6 trucks.
> >
> >___________________________________________________________________
> >You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> >Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> >or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
>


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From: "Gwyn Reedy" <mgr@mgrcorp.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: TC's and manual trans 
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 06:30:17 -0500
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No substantial info - I only reference a WWII song (will get the name and
band if you really want it) about being inducted into the Army. Rhymes about
saluting and kp etc. One of the lines is ,"they give you a tank with fluid
drive."

Had many a ride in a 1950 Dodge (plus or minus a year) with fluid drive.
Some woman at the church used to pick me up in the summer to go to vacation
church school. I was about 8 or 9 years old and even then it bothered me to
see her start out in high gear. You had to use the clutch to stop, but when
ready to move, she just let out the clutch and pressed the accelerator. Very
slow acceleration. If you wanted to go faster (relative term in a 6 cyl
flathead) you could row through all the gears. I presume this was a
derivative of what was put into the tanks in wartime production.

Hydra-Matic came out before the war (1938?) but not sure if any other
automatic or semi-automatic did. I was under the impression that
Hydra-Matics were put into tanks as well. Maybe that was what the song was
referring to and they were just using 'fluid drive' to get a rhyme.

Drifting even farther off topic... It is interesting to study automotive
history regarding the introduction of new engineering features into
production vehicles. But looking at that alone is misleading. If you look at
racing or aircraft development, the production auto engineering looks quite
retarded. Guess that is what comes from having to meet a budget. An
example - there was recently a discussion about turbocharging on the early
60's Corvair and Olds 215 engine. From the '90s that sounds advanced.
Trouble is aircraft engines had been turbocharged for decades before - and
compound supercharged as well (turbo and mechanical).

Gwyn Reedy
Brandon, Florida
mailto:mgr@mgrcorp.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Jim Davies
> Sent: Monday, February 01, 1999 11:47 PM
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: RE: TC's and manual trans (was: Re: Smooth strategy)
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, 1 Feb 1999, Gwyn Reedy wrote:
>
> > Take a WWII tank...
>
> More info on this, please.
>
>


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From: "BUTLER, Tom" <TEBUTLER@mccain.ca>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: TC's and manual trans (was: Re: Smooth strategy)
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 08:55:53 -0400 
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> Don't recall whatinell they called it, but for a while Porsche used a
> fluid
> coupling AND a vacuum operated clutch (which was triggered by a
> microswitch
> on the manual shift lever) in front of a manual tranny in the 911's. The
> fluid coupling ran in engine oil, IIRC. (A fluid coupling does not
> multiply
> torque, has only two elements, called pump and turbine.)
> 
> Easiest way to think of how one works (at least for me) is to think of a
> centrifugal pump driving a centrifugal turbine--and then eliminate the two
> housings, and all the attendant weight and inefficiencies, by just
> wrapping
> the impeller and turbine wheels into a taurus shape, and mounting them
> face
> to face.
> 
> Regards, Greg
> 
	[BUTLER, Tom]  
	These were also fairly common in VW's

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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cybergate.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: TC's and manual trans 
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The first turbocharged engine was a stationary power plant engine in 1905 by
Brown Boveri and Co., predecessor to the current ABB.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>
>
>Drifting even farther off topic... It is interesting to study automotive
>history regarding the introduction of new engineering features into
>production vehicles. But looking at that alone is misleading. If you look
at
>racing or aircraft development, the production auto engineering looks quite
>retarded. Guess that is what comes from having to meet a budget. An
>example - there was recently a discussion about turbocharging on the early
>60's Corvair and Olds 215 engine. From the '90s that sounds advanced.
>Trouble is aircraft engines had been turbocharged for decades before - and
>compound supercharged as well (turbo and mechanical).
>
>Gwyn Reedy
>Brandon, Florida



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 08:07:22 1999
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From: "Ernst Denbroeder" <ernstd@nortelnetworks.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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> >That's a good question.  How do they PWM the coolant fans? I know I
> >can hear the relay clicking away..
> >Shannen
> 
> I believe it's (the actual switching) done with an SCR, but that is coming
> from a total klutz in terms of electronics.
> 
	Close... :)  SCR's are used for AC applications.  An SCR relys on
the 0V crossing to turn off.  And a TRIAC is two SCR's in parallel (sort
of).  :)

	Ernst.


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 08:08:03 1999
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cybergate.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: TC's and manual trans (was: Re: Smooth strategy)
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A torque converter must have at least three elements.  The extra torque
comes from the reaction at the stator.  Its the hydraulic equivalent to a
lever and fulcrum where the extra force comes from the fulcrum.  A torque
converter is not more efficient than a fluid coupling but it does multiply
torque when it is slipping adding an extra gear for starts.  At low slippage
(cruise conditions) the stator freewheels and a torque converter reverts to
a fluid coupling.  A 4 or 5 element converter would be the equivalent of a
compound lever.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

<snip>
>Efficiency is much higher with a torque converter. Very few torque
>converters were two element, as the "stator", analogous to the
>multiplier, was so much more effective with the curved blades. Instead
>of the oil coming off the turbine trying to slow down the impeller, it
>is redirected to the turbine, giving off more of it's energy the second
>time round.
>The ford-o-matic was one of the first to use a three member TQ, along
>with later Powerglides,torque-flytes and cruise-o-matics..
>Lockup TQs are nothing new - Studebaker used a 4 member TQ in the late
>50s or early sixties with a direct drive clutch.The Dynaflow used a 4
>member TQ - or twin turbine converter.Early PowerFlytes were also 4
>unit. Some of these used a variable pitch turbine. The early Powerglide
>and Turboglide used 5 member converters - two pumps, two stators, and
>one turbine.
>Just a "short" history and description of the Torque converter.


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From: "Curt Platteborze" <curtp@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Chevy ECMs
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 08:10:09 -0500
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Curtis,

The GM PCM will handle up to 30 LB injectors, I have heard a few 36 LB =
programs but with some problems running rich.

I assume you will be running a blower or NOS to get up over the 800 HP =
mark.

I am running two sets of injectors on a custom intake manifold on my 95. =
I plan to install the complete Electromotive system soon with the Crank =
trigger set up as well.

Hope this helps.

Curt
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Curtis Mittong <poohbear@twd.net>
    To: diy_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu =
<diy_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
    Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 11:48 PM
    Subject: Chevy ECMs
   =20
   =20
    I have a 96 Impala SS with an LT1.  I also have a bare LT1 block =
that I plan to bore and stroke to 409.  I already know about all of the =
mechanical pitfalls I will hit, but wondered how much HP will the stock =
PCM handle with reprogramming and about #52 injectors?  Will I be able =
to do it?  If not, what PCM should I use?
    =20
    Curtis

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Curtis,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The GM PCM will handle up to 30 LB injectors, I have =
heard a=20
few 36 LB programs but with some problems running rich.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I assume you will be running a blower or NOS to get =
up over=20
the 800 HP mark.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I am running two sets of injectors on a custom =
intake manifold=20
on my 95. I plan to install the complete Electromotive system soon with =
the=20
Crank trigger set up as well.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hope this helps.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Curt</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Curtis Mittong &lt;<A=20
    href=3D"mailto:poohbear@twd.net">poohbear@twd.net</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: =
</B><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:diy_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu">diy_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio=
-state.edu</A>=20
    &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:diy_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu">diy_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio=
-state.edu</A>&gt;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Monday, February 01, 1999 11:48 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Chevy=20
    ECMs<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a 96 Impala SS with an =
LT1.&nbsp; I=20
    also have a bare LT1 block that I plan to bore and stroke to =
409.&nbsp; I=20
    already know about all of the mechanical pitfalls I will hit, but =
wondered=20
    how much HP will the stock PCM handle with reprogramming and about =
#52=20
    injectors?&nbsp; Will I be able to do it?&nbsp; If not, what PCM =
should I=20
    use?</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2>Curtis</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0032_01BE4E83.7370B0C0--


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Are you sure you don't have an EE or something <g>, you scored
a direct hit on this one!

BobR.

Stay tuned for simple/effective circuit...

Bruce wrote:

>Might think about using two IRFZ20's
>The surge on is big.  I think on a TRex pump we went to 25A fuses, once.
>I'm no EE, but from what I looked at ganging some Power MOSFETs on the
>output looked like the hot setup, then add or minus as ya want
>Bruce




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Yup, good approach Bruce, 
 I bet Doc helped ya.. <| 8~)
While a lot depends on how radical the engine is, 
 if it is naturally aspirated, you should prolly start with
~32 #ers and take some vital signs under load..
Th GM ECM will be easier to tune with 32's than 52's.

32x8=256lbs/hr   >> CSH Calcs> ==>>       512HP
39x8 312lbs/hr    >> CSH Calcs> ==>>       624HP  
Mike V 

>      52x8=416    416lbs/hr     .5lbs/HP     832HP.
>      That's one heck of an engine, or oops on the math.
>      Bruce
      
>>  I have a 96 Impala SS with an LT1.  I also have a bare LT1 block 
>> that I plan to bore and stroke to 409.  I already know about all of 
>> the mechanical pitfalls I will hit, but wondered how much HP will 
>> the stock PCM handle with reprogramming and about #52 injectors? 
>>  Will I be able to do it?  If not, what PCM should I use?
>>     Curtis

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 08:59:40 1999
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Curtis,
	The 96 PCM is OBD-II compliant. It is much more sensative
to changes than the older units. It will set a lot of error
codes if you make engine changes. A 94-95 PCM (16188051)from
any LT1 will plug into your wiring harness and run the
engine. It will not have OBD-II and not use the aftercat O2
sensors. Be sure to change the Knock sensor in the engine to
match the original PCM application. Some people have had
success changing the Knock module in the PCM to the one from
the original PCM and not changing the KS.

		Ken

> Curtis Mittong wrote:
> 
> I have a 96 Impala SS with an LT1.  I also have a bare LT1
> block that I plan to bore and stroke to 409.  I already
> know about all of the mechanical pitfalls I will hit, but
> wondered how much HP will the stock PCM handle with
> reprogramming and about #52 injectors?  Will I be able to
> do it?  If not, what PCM should I use?
> 
> Curtis

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In a message dated 2/1/99 7:59:36 PM Pacific Standard Time,
cosmic.ray@juno.com writes:

<< On Mon, 1 Feb 1999 19:57:53 -0500 "Gwyn Reedy" <mgr@mgrcorp.com> writes:
 >Take a WWII tank or a 40's Chrysler product with 'fluid drive' and you
 have
 >a fluid coupling with a standard transmission.
 >
 >Gwyn Reedy
 >Brandon, Florida
 >mailto:mgr@mgrcorp.com
 
 Mercedes also uses it in their Unimog 4X4 and 6X6 trucks.
  >>
Yes, but why not go for a more violent type, and build a Clutchflite, or does
anyone recall the old clutch conversions for Torqueflites? Kind of a poor mans
Lenco. manual valve body and no missed shifts. They made versions of it in
TH400 too.
Fred

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Gary Derian wrote:
> 
> A torque converter must have at least three elements.  The extra torque
> comes from the reaction at the stator.  Its the hydraulic equivalent to a
> lever and fulcrum where the extra force comes from the fulcrum.  A torque
> converter is not more efficient than a fluid coupling but it does multiply
> torque when it is slipping adding an extra gear for starts.  At low slippage
> (cruise conditions) the stator freewheels and a torque converter reverts to
> a fluid coupling.  A 4 or 5 element converter would be the equivalent of a
> compound lever.
> 
> Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

Reference Wm Crouse - Automotive mechanics- fifth edition - Webster/Mc
Graw Hill.
Torque converters with only 2 elements DID exist. The definitive
difference between a fluid coupling and a TC is the shape of the vanes.
Note, a 3 element fluid coupling also existed.

You took auto mechanics in high school - I taught it :}
> 
> <snip>
> >Efficiency is much higher with a torque converter. Very few torque
> >converters were two element, as the "stator", analogous to the
> >multiplier, was so much more effective with the curved blades. Instead
> >of the oil coming off the turbine trying to slow down the impeller, it
> >is redirected to the turbine, giving off more of it's energy the second
> >time round.
> >The ford-o-matic was one of the first to use a three member TQ, along
> >with later Powerglides,torque-flytes and cruise-o-matics..
> >Lockup TQs are nothing new - Studebaker used a 4 member TQ in the late
> >50s or early sixties with a direct drive clutch.The Dynaflow used a 4
> >member TQ - or twin turbine converter.Early PowerFlytes were also 4
> >unit. Some of these used a variable pitch turbine. The early Powerglide
> >and Turboglide used 5 member converters - two pumps, two stators, and
> >one turbine.
> >Just a "short" history and description of the Torque converter.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 10:42:24 1999
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Ernst Denbroeder wrote:
> 
> > >That's a good question.  How do they PWM the coolant fans? I know I
> > >can hear the relay clicking away..
> > >Shannen
> >
> > I believe it's (the actual switching) done with an SCR, but that is coming
> > from a total klutz in terms of electronics.
> >
>         Close... :)  SCR's are used for AC applications.  An SCR relys on
> the 0V crossing to turn off.  And a TRIAC is two SCR's in parallel (sort
> of).  :)
> 
>         Ernst.
Also used (with commutation circuit) on DC controllers like the GE EV1
motor controller used on forklifts and some electric cars. REAL tricky
getting the suckers to turn off though!

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-----Original Message-----
From: rauscher@icst.com <rauscher@icst.com>
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 8:39 AM
Subject: Re: PWM driver

Actually was Doc's idea  (weird cackling laugh in background)
Bruce           Doc just has gone round the bend, since shoveling snow
                   out of the kitchen...   Which brings up the whole matter
                   of the last incident...

>Are you sure you don't have an EE or something <g>, you scored
>a direct hit on this one!
>BobR.
>Stay tuned for simple/effective circuit...
>Bruce wrote:
>>Might think about using two IRFZ20's
>>The surge on is big.  I think on a TRex pump we went to 25A fuses, once.
>>I'm no EE, but from what I looked at ganging some Power MOSFETs on the
>>output looked like the hot setup, then add or minus as ya want
>>Bruce



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 10:49:50 1999
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-----Original Message-----
From: Van Setten, Tim (AZ75) <Tim.Van.Setten@CAS.honeywell.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 5:26 PM
Subject: RE: Intake Runner Length

Brutual snippage


>> We wanted a box with knobs on it.  that controls the basic fuel
>>curve.   The digital stuff is a nightmare.   Magnesium engines, steel
>>frames, aluminum do-dads, high RF fields from radios, lots of emi >>from
magneto's, (to really screw up a ecm, watch what a MSD >>7AL2 multi-spark
does using solid core wires), but the topper is >>when some of these
village-idiots use a garden tractor battery to
>>try starting a 13:1 compression motor!
>>  When we went to a basic analog system, 99.99999% of the
>>problems went away. (No processor resets, endless loops, watch->>dog
timers, etc..etc..).
>> Going to a speed-density system, (TPS and Tach), sequential->>double
fire, we could use pot to trim overall curve, idle, mid, top >>end.  Adding
a MAP gave us the additional curve for the boost >>correction fuel.  I can't
go into schematics without giving up too >>many secrets, but I'll try to
answer questions.  (Hope I answered >>some of your questions Bruce).
>> Tim.


Would it be safe to say you used 555's?.
Would asking what for Op-Amps be OK?.
Just 4 pots?.
Bruce


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On Tue, 2 Feb 1999, Gwyn Reedy wrote:

> Something else tells me that the coupling got 'used' twice during a complete
> shift sequence. Purpose was to add smoothness to the shifts. TV ads touted
> the engineering skill required to fill or empty the coupling in just one
> second.
> 
It always seemed to be "in just one block"

The "engineering skill" was infact a variable displacement vane pump. This
fine piece of engineering returned in the TH125 and 700R4 in the 1980s.



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From: "Ernst Denbroeder" <ernstd@nortelnetworks.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Chevy ECMs
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Curious...

Is the 96 PCM a pre 96 with additional circuitry or is it a ground up
redesign?  


	Ernst.




> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Ken Kelly [SMTP:kenkelly@lucent.com]
> Sent:	Tuesday, February 02, 1999 9:02 AM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: Chevy ECMs
> 
> Curtis,
> 	The 96 PCM is OBD-II compliant. It is much more sensative
> to changes than the older units. It will set a lot of error
> codes if you make engine changes. A 94-95 PCM (16188051)from
> any LT1 will plug into your wiring harness and run the
> engine. It will not have OBD-II and not use the aftercat O2
> sensors. Be sure to change the Knock sensor in the engine to
> match the original PCM application. Some people have had
> success changing the Knock module in the PCM to the one from
> the original PCM and not changing the KS.
> 
> 		Ken
> 
> > Curtis Mittong wrote:
> > 
> > I have a 96 Impala SS with an LT1.  I also have a bare LT1
> > block that I plan to bore and stroke to 409.  I already
> > know about all of the mechanical pitfalls I will hit, but
> > wondered how much HP will the stock PCM handle with
> > reprogramming and about #52 injectors?  Will I be able to
> > do it?  If not, what PCM should I use?
> > 
> > Curtis

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 11:08:21 1999
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Several people have written me asking about the distributorless ignition
article that Tim Drury wrote.  There is a pointer to it on the DIY_EFI
page.  The article has been unavailable for some time now.  Does anyone
know the wherabouts of either Tim or his article?

--steve

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 11:36:35 1999
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Subject: Re: TC's and manual trans (was: Re: Smooth strategy)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 11:39:58 -0500 (EST)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
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> 
> > Don't recall whatinell they called it, but for a while Porsche used a
> > fluid
> > coupling AND a vacuum operated clutch (which was triggered by a
> > microswitch
> > on the manual shift lever) in front of a manual tranny in the 911's. The
> > fluid coupling ran in engine oil, IIRC. (A fluid coupling does not
> > multiply
> > torque, has only two elements, called pump and turbine.)


TipTronic

Clive 


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 12:20:37 1999
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cybergate.net>
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Subject: Re: TC's and manual trans (was: Re: Smooth strategy)
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I am defining a torque converter as a device that multiplies torque.  If
there are only 2 elements, where does the torque multiplication come from?
If one element is attached to the engine and the second element is attached
to the transmission, there is no way the second element can have more torque
than the first.  This two element thing you are describing may be a very
nice device and it may have been called a torque converter but it cannot
multiply torque.  For that, you need a reaction member.

I never took auto mechanics in high school.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>


>Gary Derian wrote:
>>
>> A torque converter must have at least three elements.  The extra torque
>> comes from the reaction at the stator.  Its the hydraulic equivalent to a
>> lever and fulcrum where the extra force comes from the fulcrum.  A torque
>> converter is not more efficient than a fluid coupling but it does
multiply
>> torque when it is slipping adding an extra gear for starts.  At low
slippage
>> (cruise conditions) the stator freewheels and a torque converter reverts
to
>> a fluid coupling.  A 4 or 5 element converter would be the equivalent of
a
>> compound lever.
>
>Reference Wm Crouse - Automotive mechanics- fifth edition - Webster/Mc
>Graw Hill.
>Torque converters with only 2 elements DID exist. The definitive
>difference between a fluid coupling and a TC is the shape of the vanes.
>Note, a 3 element fluid coupling also existed.
>
>You took auto mechanics in high school - I taught it :}



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> Also used (with commutation circuit) on DC controllers like the GE EV1
> motor controller used on forklifts and some electric cars. REAL tricky
> getting the suckers to turn off though!
> 
	Interesting...  never thought of an SCR in that context before.
Although I can see how you'd use it in that application.  

	Ernst.
	 



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Subject: Re: TC's and manual trans (was: Re: Smooth strategy)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 12:36:50 -0500 (EST)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
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> 
> << Forgetting for the moment about the specific machiningg, adapters, etc that
>  would be required to physically hook it up, is it possible or feasible 
>  to make it work outside of an automatic trans?  Is it's hydraulic fluid
>  supply sealed inside the convertor?  Could you fill the convertor and
>  seal it and expect it to work for very long or does it need a continuous
>  flow of fluid for cooling?  If so, would pressure need to be modulated
>  for any reason or does it just need a continuous flow?

there are industrial units that operate as dry stand alone selealed units
you could mount it sealed and have it enclosed by a box containinig some 
cooling liquid that is circulated though a rad etc.

> you should expect to provide some cooling fluid flow depending on
> the stall speed and if you will have a lockup converter you will need
> to control that with fluid pressure.
> 
> Your best bet is to take a front pump and converter from a donor
> tranmission.

maybe one with a tcc too
the Ford AOD has a solid shaft through the centre that is used as lock drive
for lockup mode, it inserts into splines machined into the converter housing

Clive 

> 
> James
> 


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From: "Van Setten, Tim (AZ75)" <Tim.Van.Setten@CAS.honeywell.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Intake Runner Length
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 10:57:43 -0700 
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> Subject: RE: Intake Runner Length
> 
	Massive Brutal snippage

> Would it be safe to say you used 555's?.
> Would asking what for Op-Amps be OK?.
> Just 4 pots?.
> Bruce
> 
Sorry, no 555's in sight.  The box is broke up into two basic parts.  One
for the injector timing, and the other for duty-cycle (pulse width for you
digital types).
Injector timing is done by converting the input pulses from the coil (freq.)
into a dc voltage.  Next step is using a dc-freq. converter (PLL) to set the
rep. rate for the inj. timing.  I found that when I run the inj. at approx.
8% faster than what the engine is running, the bottom end and mid range is
fantastic!  If it is set to 1:1, it stumbles or hesitates.  I can
momentarily speed up the freq. of the inj., and/or increase the duty-cycle
for an accel. pump action, but it's not the same.  An Accel pump seems to
kill the off idle transition in a port inj. design.  I can also slow down
the freq. of the inj. (to eng. freq.) to lean out the idle if the pulse
width gets to narrow. (Remember we are using anywhere from 32 lb/hr to 60
lb/hr, low impedance injectors).
The TPS input goes thru different op-amps that the gain is controlled by the
engine freq, thus the different ranges, idle, mid, and top or wide open.
Did I help at all, Bruce?
Tim

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 13:10:33 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Love This
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 12:10:29 -0600 
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PWM of cooling fans is done almost exactly the same way injectors are fired,
more or less duty cycle to a transistor. 

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Clarence L.Snyder [SMTP:clare.snyder.on.ca@ibm.net]
> Sent:	Tuesday, February 02, 1999 9:43 AM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: Love This
> 
> Ernst Denbroeder wrote:
> > 
> > > >That's a good question.  How do they PWM the coolant fans? I know I
> > > >can hear the relay clicking away..
> > > >Shannen
> > >
> > > I believe it's (the actual switching) done with an SCR, but that is
> coming
> > > from a total klutz in terms of electronics.
> > >
> >         Close... :)  SCR's are used for AC applications.  An SCR relys
> on
> > the 0V crossing to turn off.  And a TRIAC is two SCR's in parallel (sort
> > of).  :)
> > 
> >         Ernst.
> Also used (with commutation circuit) on DC controllers like the GE EV1
> motor controller used on forklifts and some electric cars. REAL tricky
> getting the suckers to turn off though!

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 13:22:04 1999
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Subject: Re: Intake Runner Length
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 13:25:28 -0500 (EST)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <v01510101b2db680cfa0e@[204.132.128.2]> from "Greg Hermann" at Feb 1, 99 02:22:15 pm
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> 
> 
> >   The D port is from what "chev" has done with the exhaust port,
> >probably some else did it first, it's just they are so common......
> >Bruce
> 
> IIRC, the exhaust ports on the Ford 427 FE "cammer" were the first to be D
> shaped---with the flat on the short side of the curve. In other words,
> round, except for where the flow would separate anywayz. Believe it was
> claimed to help keep velocity up, and more importantly, turbulence down.


actually what it does is slow the flow at the bottom of the port
more than the flow at the top
this helps the gases turn the corner

Clive 
> 
> Regards, Greg
> 
> >> Thanks for all the inputs.....Tim.
> >>
> 
> 


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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rauscher@icst.com <rauscher@icst.com>
> To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 8:39 AM
> Subject: Re: PWM driver
> 
> Actually was Doc's idea  (weird cackling laugh in background)
> Bruce           Doc just has gone round the bend, since shoveling snow
>                    out of the kitchen...   Which brings up the whole matter
>                    of the last incident...
> 
Another lesson in applied physics?
Shannen
> >Are you sure you don't have an EE or something <g>, you scored
> >a direct hit on this one!
> >BobR.
> >Stay tuned for simple/effective circuit...
> >Bruce wrote:
> >>Might think about using two IRFZ20's
> >>The surge on is big.  I think on a TRex pump we went to 25A fuses, once.
> >>I'm no EE, but from what I looked at ganging some Power MOSFETs on the
> >>output looked like the hot setup, then add or minus as ya want
> >>Bruce


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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Intake Runner Length
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-----Original Message-----
From: Van Setten, Tim (AZ75) <Tim.Van.Setten@CAS.honeywell.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 1:27 PM
Subject: RE: Intake Runner Length


> Massive Brutal snippage
>
>Injector timing is done by converting the input pulses from the coil
(freq.)
>into a dc voltage.  Next step is using a dc-freq. converter (PLL) to set
the
>rep. rate for the inj. timing.  I found that when I run the inj. at approx.
>8% faster than what the engine is running, the bottom end and mid range is
>fantastic!  If it is set to 1:1, it stumbles or hesitates.  I can
>momentarily speed up the freq. of the inj., and/or increase the duty-cycle
>for an accel. pump action, but it's not the same.  An Accel pump seems to
>kill the off idle transition in a port inj. design.  I can also slow down
>the freq. of the inj. (to eng. freq.) to lean out the idle if the pulse
>width gets to narrow. (Remember we are using anywhere from 32 lb/hr to 60
>lb/hr, low impedance injectors).
>The TPS input goes thru different op-amps that the gain is controlled by
the
>engine freq, thus the different ranges, idle, mid, and top or wide open.
>Did I help at all, Bruce?

Yep, but Doc, and Grumpy's eyes have glazed over.  This Phased
Locked Loop Stuff is like shuttle trajectory calculations, for them.
OK, us........
Bruce

>Tim
>


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Message-ID: <00a001be4ee9$6c88be40$07633acf@nacelp>
From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: "DIY_EFI" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: V-8  Datsun 240/260 owners   sorry no DIY_EFI yet 
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 15:20:04 -0500
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If you own one of these SBC conversions, please e-mail me,

nacelp@bright.net

Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 15:32:07 1999
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Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 14:33:24 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Clarence Wood <clarencewood@centuryinter.net>
Subject: RE: Love This
In-Reply-To: <D3286A3F9D0ED111A2C40080D8700D98101962@cccntxch02.ceco.com
 >
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  Could you, or someone, please explain PWM (assuming that PWM=Pulse Width Modulation) of cooling fans?  I thought that cooling fans worked on an on/off system.  Under what conditions would you want PWM control, and what is the pulse width that is being modulated?  You guys really know how to humble a guy; I thought I had a lock on cooling fans!(:<

Clarence  


At 12:10 PM 2/2/99 -0600, you wrote:
>PWM of cooling fans is done almost exactly the same way injectors are fired,
>more or less duty cycle to a transistor. 
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From:	Clarence L.Snyder [SMTP:clare.snyder.on.ca@ibm.net]
>> Sent:	Tuesday, February 02, 1999 9:43 AM
>> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>> Subject:	Re: Love This
>> 
>> Ernst Denbroeder wrote:
>> > 
>> > > >That's a good question.  How do they PWM the coolant fans? I know I
>> > > >can hear the relay clicking away..
>> > > >Shannen
>> > >
>> > > I believe it's (the actual switching) done with an SCR, but that is
>> coming
>> > > from a total klutz in terms of electronics.
>> > >
>> >         Close... :)  SCR's are used for AC applications.  An SCR relys
>> on
>> > the 0V crossing to turn off.  And a TRIAC is two SCR's in parallel (sort
>> > of).  :)
>> > 
>> >         Ernst.
>> Also used (with commutation circuit) on DC controllers like the GE EV1
>> motor controller used on forklifts and some electric cars. REAL tricky
>> getting the suckers to turn off though!
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 15:45:23 1999
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Subject: PWM motor controller
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Ok, have it done up. Find in the incoming directory
a couple of files:

    Pwm.txt Write up on circuit
    pwm1.gif    Image of schematic


Have fun, and let us know how your experiments work out!

BobR.


Any questions, just post...

--



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 16:13:20 1999
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From: "Van Setten, Tim (AZ75)" <Tim.Van.Setten@CAS.honeywell.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Intake Runner Length
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 14:11:35 -0700 
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> > IIRC, the exhaust ports on the Ford 427 FE "cammer" were the first to be
> D
> > shaped---with the flat on the short side of the curve. In other words,
> > round, except for where the flow would separate anywayz. Believe it was
> > claimed to help keep velocity up, and more importantly, turbulence down.
> 
> 
> actually what it does is slow the flow at the bottom of the port
> more than the flow at the top
> this helps the gases turn the corner
> 
	"Gasses"? Stay with me, I'm on a learning curve here.  I don't know
if it is important anymore between the "D" or "Square" shaped runners
anymore because it is only air going thru them.  I can understand air speed
in the runner, etc., but where it goes out the window for me is when you see
the runner, where it attaches to the plenum, is a square corner!  A lot of
plenum / runner combinations are shaped like a "T".  Believe me, I'm not
trying to make an issue out of this, just trying to understand and make the
best setup feasible.
	Thanks.....Tim.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 16:22:56 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Love This
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-----Original Message-----
From: Clarence Wood <clarencewood@centuryinter.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 4:11 PM
Subject: RE: Love This


>  Could you, or someone, please explain PWM (assuming that PWM=Pulse Width
Modulation) of cooling fans?

It all relates to the digitial world.  While resistors could be used to slow
a fan motor down, they give off heat, and thus waste energy.  PWM,
is full on but for short periods of time, lots less wasted heat.   Also,
infinitely variable speed controls are possible.
   While was mentioned for cooling fans, I was looking for a fuel pump
controller, but a motor issa motor.
Bruce

  I thought that cooling fans worked on an on/off system.  Under what
conditions would you want PWM control, and what is the pulse width that is
being modulated?  You guys really know how to humble a guy; I thought I had
a lock on cooling fans!(:<
>Clarence




From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 16:48:57 1999
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Subject: Re: PCM
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Howday all

Did some lookin round that Patent Web page Mike posted.

Patent 5,267,542 might be interesting for those lookin at gm PCMs
Bit of misinformation though

gl:peter



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 16:55:18 1999
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cybergate.net>
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Subject: Re: Love This
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Cooling fans are PWM controlled to minimize noise when full cooling is not
needed.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

>
>  I thought that cooling fans worked on an on/off system.  Under what
>conditions would you want PWM control, and what is the pulse width that is
>being modulated?  You guys really know how to humble a guy; I thought I had
>a lock on cooling fans!(:<
>>Clarence
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 17:05:23 1999
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>    While was mentioned for cooling fans, I was looking for a fuel pump
> controller, but a motor issa motor.

However, not all motors are the same :)

>   I thought that cooling fans worked on an on/off system.  Under what
> conditions would you want PWM control, and what is the pulse width that is
> being modulated?  You guys really know how to humble a guy; I thought I had
> a lock on cooling fans!(:<

To vary the speed of the fan :)  Faster at a standstill,
faster with the A/C on, slower or off otherwise :)

A lot of the day-time running lights work the same way, they
run at a 50% duty cycle rather than 100%.  Beats a large,
hot resistor like you said in the chopped out portion of
your post.

-- 
Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

http://www.xephic.dynip.com
1993 Superchaged Lincoln Continental
1989 500cid Turbocharged HWMMV
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab
2000 Buick GTP (twin turbo V6)

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 17:08:39 1999
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Yup, I agree.  Say 'hi' sometime offline.

Walt.


-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Sharpe <twsharpe@mtco.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 9:22 PM
Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA was(Re: More UEGO stuff)


>
>
>Walter Sherwin wrote:
>
>> Not quite Bruce.  Picture the following "Remapping"
>> procedure...............................
>>
>> Create a cal which defeats all of the A/F modifiers such as AE, EGR, ECT,
>> etc.   Also, disable open loop PE enrichment so that the computer stays
in
>> closed loop under all conditions.  Basically, you would now have a VE
driven
>> cal, with closed loop correction capability.   But, instead of "learning"
>> towards stoich, the system would learn towards a safe setpoint (of say
>> 11.5:1) defined by the electronic gizmo I had proposed.
>> >>
>
>If we are learning, let's learn 11.5:1  < 10" vacuum (MAP???) stoich at
15"+
>vacuum (could learn lean burn also) and a straight line between them. Come
up
>with "standard" correction factors for H20 (warm up) and Air Temp and
you're
>done.
>
>It's not really that simple, but close.....   Tom
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 17:33:15 1999
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@idirect.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: VE calculations from torque graph and manifold pressure.
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 17:31:46 -0800
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>Given the fact that I have a DYNO torque curve of a motor over it entire
RPM
>range for WOT
>I should be able to convert torque to VE



Assuming you have plugged in the appropriate constants for your engine's
displacement and injectors, then yes the shape of the WOT VE table will
closely resemble the shape of the WOT torque curve.  You might want to aim
for 80% VE at peak torque, just to give yourself some headroom to play
around in.



>With the above results I should be able to build one column in my VE map in
>my 808 ECU.
>Would it be possible to somehow via math's calculations to work out
(roughly)
>The VE numbers for all other load conditions.





To get close,  just use a ratio factor.  50 MAP would lead you to a VE of
50% of the WOT VE table value, at that engine speed.  You should be able to
start to tune with  such a Map.



Have Fun;
Walt.



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Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 14:37:22 -0800
From: gervais@rtrman.engr.sgi.com (Joe Gervais)
Message-Id: <9902021437.ZM828@rtrman.engr.sgi.com>
In-Reply-To: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
        "V-8  Datsun 240/260 owners   sorry no DIY_EFI yet" (Feb  2,  3:20pm)
References: <00a001be4ee9$6c88be40$07633acf@nacelp>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas???
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I've been quiet on this list for a while. I swapped a 93 LT1 into my early
Corvette, and thanks to this list and others, have enjoyed that swap and am
about to do a similar swap into a 69 Camaro with a 97 Z28 motor that I couldn't
pass up.

I know some of the high horsepower guys I know have swapped from OBD II to OBD
I PCMs due to difficulties of squeezing 600 HP out of an OBD II controlled
motor. For a stock, smog exempt OBD II swap, are there any pitfalls that I
should look out for? Anyone else on the list already done such a swap?

Joe

-- 
_________________________________________________________________________
Joe Gervais                   gervais@sgi.com
Product Line Manager          (650) 933-7479 voice
High Performance Networking   (650) 964-0811 fax
Silicon Graphics              www.sgi.com

2011 North Shoreline Blvd, Mail Stop 08L-855, Mountain View, CA 94043-1389

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 17:49:35 1999
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Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 16:49:30 -0600 (CST)
From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas???
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On Tue, 2 Feb 1999, Joe Gervais wrote:

> I've been quiet on this list for a while. I swapped a 93 LT1 into my early
> Corvette, and thanks to this list and others, have enjoyed that swap and am
> about to do a similar swap into a 69 Camaro with a 97 Z28 motor that I couldn't
> pass up.
> 
> I know some of the high horsepower guys I know have swapped from OBD II to OBD
> I PCMs due to difficulties of squeezing 600 HP out of an OBD II controlled
> motor. For a stock, smog exempt OBD II swap, are there any pitfalls that I
> should look out for? Anyone else on the list already done such a swap?
> 
> Joe
> 

If you are swapping in the standard stock unmodified engine you will
only need to fake out the sensors that you aren't using, such as the
additional O2 sensors behind the cats.  Also I believe there are some
things that detect a loose gas cap, this will need to be faked out
also, and probably several other sensors of the same sort.   That is I
believe why they generally put a 95 pcm in, they don't have to worry
about it.   The 96 + pcm does have some nice features, it will count
misfires, but this is supposed to get rather confused if you put a cam
that is too big in the car, and count alot of misfires and set SES
lights and such.   

If the engine is being modified then the misfire detection seems to be
the most troublesome thing, if you are staying in the same car.

There are supposed to be "O2" sensors to properly fake out the behind
the cat sensors inputs so the computer does not notice.  I think it
takes the front O2 sensor and makes up the rear signal based on that.

And I guess the other problem is not many companies know how to
program the 96+ cars, so that is really a problem.

			Roger


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 18:07:18 1999
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Gary Derian wrote:
> 
> Cooling fans are PWM controlled to minimize noise when full cooling is not
> needed.
> 
Electrical or acoustic?
Shannen

> Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>
> 
> >
> >  I thought that cooling fans worked on an on/off system.  Under what
> >conditions would you want PWM control, and what is the pulse width that is
> >being modulated?  You guys really know how to humble a guy; I thought I had
> >a lock on cooling fans!(:<
> >>Clarence
> >
> >


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 18:09:40 1999
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Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 15:10:16 -0800
From: Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
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Subject: Re: UEGO IDEA
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Stuart Bunning <stuart@kenelec.com.au> wrote:
> I have removed the carby and
> installed the TBI and now (havn't done this yet) are going to keep altering
> the VE table until the base pulse width for the injectors will supply the
> same amount of fuel as my carby did at idle over the same time period.
> Hopefully I will be able to start the car and it will idle. The problem is
> if I change RPM or load of the engine ( touch the trottle ) I would
> instantly go lean. If I was to set the entire VE map the same maybe your
> approach will enable to use BLM numbers to adjust the rest of my map.  

You won't go as lean as you think.  The MAP sensor is used to index into
the VE map.  But it normally is also multiplied into the fuel
calculation.  If you had a totally flat VE map, an increase in MAP would
still increase the fuel delivered.  (Further, an increase in RPM would
cause fuel to be injected more often - also increasing the total fuel
delivery over a unit of time.)

> For example if at 3000RPM I have maximum torque at WOT 100% efficient could
> I assume
> that at 50KPA it would we only 50% efficient,25KPA 25% etc...

I checked the VE table in a production PROM.  At most RPM values, there
was almost exactly a factor of two increase in VE from 20 KPa to 100
KPa.  (Once the MAP gets multiplied in, that means a factor of ten in
fuel from 20 KPa to 100 KPa.)  Across the RPM range, the highest and
lowest VEs varied by about a factor of 1.5.

The only exception was the idle "corner" of the table (low rpm, low MAP
/ high vacuum).  In this portion of the table, the VE dropped below what
would be predicted by the previous ratios.  Perhaps you should do your
carb measurement at a load other than idle - and use the results to set
an initial (flat) VE table.


Regarding tuning with a UEGO:  A wide range sensor allows the BLMs to be
determined almost instantly.  If the sensor indicated a ratio of 12.3
when the ECM wanted 14.6, a little bit of math can jump the BLM to very
close to the correct value for the next cylinder cycle.  There is no
need to bump the BLM (or INT) by one count, wait a while, and perhaps
repeat.  Of course these smart BLM changes would require a code change
in an ECM's program.  With appropriate software, the VE table could be
tuned fairly well on a dyno with just a quick sweep through the RPM
ranges at 10 or 20 different throttle positions.

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 18:11:45 1999
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Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 17:13:09 -0600
From: Tom Sharpe <twsharpe@mtco.com>
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Why not go all the way and adopt the Ferrari setup. Use the standard friction clutch
operated by a power steering pump and cylinder along with the finger switches on the
steerring wheel to up/down shift, all controlled by the computer. Copy the ratchet
shifter mechanism from a motorcycle. Just two pedals and no shifter.....

Let's see.... has anyone seen a Ferrari in the local U-Pull??          Tom


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 18:13:26 1999
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From: "Van Setten, Tim (AZ75)" <Tim.Van.Setten@CAS.honeywell.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Love This
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 16:10:36 -0700 
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> Subject: 	Re: Love This
> 
> >  Could you, or someone, please explain PWM (assuming that PWM=Pulse
> Width
> Modulation) of cooling fans?
> 
> Subject: RE: Love This
> 
> >  Could you, or someone, please explain PWM (assuming that PWM=Pulse
> Width
> Modulation) of cooling fans?
> 
> Here's my .03 cents worth... Look at it from this angle.  The light dimmer
> is your house uses PWM to control the intensity of the light.  The reason
> the "brightness" of the light changes is because the "average power"
> dissipated changes, ie. 1/2 bright, 50/50 duty cycle, full bright, 100%
> duty cycle.
> 
> In an electric motor, the start currents etc. are very high, so PWM is
> used to overcome most of these losses.  Again, the reason the motor runs
> at 1/2 speed at 50/50 duty cycle is because the average power dissipated
> is 1/2 of full power.
> 
> Hope this helps....Tim.
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 18:21:03 1999
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>In a message dated 2/1/99 7:59:36 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>cosmic.ray@juno.com writes:
>
><< On Mon, 1 Feb 1999 19:57:53 -0500 "Gwyn Reedy" <mgr@mgrcorp.com> writes:
> >Take a WWII tank or a 40's Chrysler product with 'fluid drive' and you
> have
> >a fluid coupling with a standard transmission.
> >
> >Gwyn Reedy
> >Brandon, Florida
> >mailto:mgr@mgrcorp.com
>
> Mercedes also uses it in their Unimog 4X4 and 6X6 trucks.
>  >>
>Yes, but why not go for a more violent type, and build a Clutchflite, or does
>anyone recall the old clutch conversions for Torqueflites? Kind of a poor mans
>Lenco. manual valve body and no missed shifts. They made versions of it in
>TH400 too.
>Fred

Yep. Good stuff!!

Greg



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Gary Derian wrote:

> Cooling fans are PWM controlled to minimize noise when full cooling is not
> needed.
>
> Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>
>

Has anyone reverse eng. the circuits?  Any parts available?  Tom


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 18:40:09 1999
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: TC's and manual trans (was: Re: Smooth strategy)
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>>
>> > Don't recall whatinell they called it, but for a while Porsche used a
>> > fluid
>> > coupling AND a vacuum operated clutch (which was triggered by a
>> > microswitch
>> > on the manual shift lever) in front of a manual tranny in the 911's. The
>> > fluid coupling ran in engine oil, IIRC. (A fluid coupling does not
>> > multiply
>> > torque, has only two elements, called pump and turbine.)
>
>
>TipTronic
>
>Clive

BINGO!!! Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 18:49:48 1999
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Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 17:49:44 -0600 (CST)
From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Love This
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On Tue, 2 Feb 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote:

> Gary Derian wrote:
> > 
> > Cooling fans are PWM controlled to minimize noise when full cooling is not
> > needed.
> > 
> Electrical or acoustic?
> Shannen
> 

I would say acoustical.  On high speed setting the fans on my car are
pretty loud.  They are pretty quiet on the lower speed.  

			Roger


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 18:54:48 1999
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Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 17:54:46 -0600 
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Actually an AC light dimmer delays the firing of a triac so that only a
portion of the sine wave goes to the lamp.
For Dim the triac is on for 30 degrees of the 180 degrees positive peak and
30 degrees for the negative peak.
PWM deals exclusively with square waves and DC applications. AC Motor
control usually are variable frequency drive types.
No harm intended.    

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Van Setten, Tim (AZ75) [SMTP:Tim.Van.Setten@CAS.honeywell.com]
> Sent:	Tuesday, February 02, 1999 5:11 PM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	RE: Love This
> 
> > Subject: 	Re: Love This
> > 
> > >  Could you, or someone, please explain PWM (assuming that PWM=Pulse
> > Width
> > Modulation) of cooling fans?
> > 
> > Subject: RE: Love This
> > 
> > >  Could you, or someone, please explain PWM (assuming that PWM=Pulse
> > Width
> > Modulation) of cooling fans?
> > 
> > Here's my .03 cents worth... Look at it from this angle.  The light
> dimmer
> > is your house uses PWM to control the intensity of the light.  The
> reason
> > the "brightness" of the light changes is because the "average power"
> > dissipated changes, ie. 1/2 bright, 50/50 duty cycle, full bright, 100%
> > duty cycle.
> > 
> > In an electric motor, the start currents etc. are very high, so PWM is
> > used to overcome most of these losses.  Again, the reason the motor runs
> > at 1/2 speed at 50/50 duty cycle is because the average power dissipated
> > is 1/2 of full power.
> > 
> > Hope this helps....Tim.
> > 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 20:13:56 1999
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Ludis Langens wrote:

>   Of course these smart BLM changes would require a code change
> in an ECM's program.  With appropriate software, the VE table could be
> tuned fairly well on a dyno with just a quick sweep through the RPM
> ranges at 10 or 20 different throttle positions.

That assumes you have a dyno..... Would probably also work on a chassi dyno....
Tom


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Is the A/F ratio table found at xC4FA (ASBX) in my memcal responsible for
part of the fuel supply multiplications that would be experienced even with
a totally
flat VE table?  As my initial thought was if VE was flat it would lean out
as load or RPM increased. 

The map below (hopefully your font it right or it will look like @$#@# )
changes the A/F ratio
based on MAP and RPM ...

My guess is that the VE table tells the ECU efficiency and the A/F table
below tells the mixtures it will try to generate based on the VE table ?????

Everyone talks about VE tables and ignition tables.. So what are the other
A/F ratio table actuall used for. By looking at them it's pretty obvious
14.7 would = 14.7:1 air/fule ratio and at the right as load starts to get
high we want power so the mixtures get righer?? But How mathimatically soes
this contribute to adding additional fuel compared to the VE tables.

SORRY IF THIS HAS BEEN COVERED !!!

I guess I could/will burn a prom with a flat VE and flat A/F ratio table and
hook it to my bench ecu and see what the CRO says as I change the MAP
voltage or RPM slowly..


xC4FA		DC.B	16,0,9
		DC.B	140,147,147,147,130,130,130,130,130
		DC.B	140,147,147,147,147,147,147,130,130
		DC.B	140,147,147,147,147,147,147,130,130
		DC.B	145,147,147,147,147,147,135,134,134
		DC.B	145,147,147,147,147,147,130,130,130
		DC.B	145,147,147,147,147,147,130,130,130
		DC.B	145,147,147,147,147,135,130,130,130
		DC.B	145,147,147,147,147,135,130,130,130
		DC.B	145,147,147,147,147,135,130,130,130
		DC.B	145,147,147,147,147,135,130,130,130
		DC.B	145,147,147,147,147,135,130,130,130
		DC.B	145,147,147,147,147,135,130,130,130
		DC.B	145,147,147,147,147,135,130,130,130
		DC.B	140,147,147,147,147,135,130,130,130
		DC.B	140,147,147,147,147,135,130,130,130
		DC.B	140,147,147,147,147,135,130,130,130






>
>You won't go as lean as you think.  The MAP sensor is used to index into
>the VE map.  But it normally is also multiplied into the fuel
>calculation.  If you had a totally flat VE map, an increase in MAP would
>


Best Regards,

STUART BUNNING
SALES ENGINEER
KENELEC PTY LTD

23-25 REDLAND DRIVE
MITCHAM VICTORIA 3132
AUSTRALIA

PHONE:  61 3 9873 1022
FAX:    61 3 9873 0200
EMAIL:  stuart@kenelec.com.au
WEB:    http://www.kenelec.com.au/


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 20:17:03 1999
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From: "Bill the arcstarter" <arcstarter@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu, clare.snyder.on.ca@ibm.net
Subject: RE: Love This
Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 17:16:31 PST
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Clarence L.Snyder wrote:

>>         Close... :)  SCR's are used for AC applications.  An SCR 
relys on
>> the 0V crossing to turn off.  And a TRIAC is two SCR's in parallel 
(sort
>> of).  :)
>>
>>         Ernst.
>Also used (with commutation circuit) on DC controllers like the GE 
>EV1 motor controller used on forklifts and some electric cars. REAL 
>tricky getting the suckers to turn off though!

Yup.  Anyone interested in this particular unnatural act (turning scrs 
off scrs) can see some scr commutation schemes on my page at:

http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/6160/hvtank/hvtank.html

(Not for the electrically faint of heart)

-Bill
'84 Dodge Ram w/ Rochester 2-G carb from a '72 Chevelle

______________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 22:03:47 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: Intake Runner Length
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-----Original Message-----
From: Van Setten, Tim (AZ75) <Tim.Van.Setten@CAS.honeywell.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 4:47 PM
Subject: RE: Intake Runner Length

I worked at an R+D shop, and for a while Ollie Morris (one of the great of
manifold designers), and find Smokey Yunick's quote of "square ain't as bad
as
it seems" (or words to that effect) meaningful.  While many ports look like
beautiful
sculptures, sometimes it's just better to take you licks, and be done with
it.
Specially with a dry manifold.  Considering at 6,000 rpm from butterfly to
intake valve the "air" is only in the intake for like .008 (and possibly
much lesss) of a sec. it ain't there long enough to estabish boundry
layers/laminar flow enough to matter (for other than all out race
applications).  Worry about the bowl, and valve,
the most.   Specialy if were still talking about a turbo VW.  Then we can
get to keeping the total valve diameters not to exceed 85% of the bore, or
shrouding
gets to be an issue (non-hemi heads)..  Sir Harry Ricardo, just realised I
hadn't mentioned him in two weeks.
Cheers
Bruce          Well, if the smoke alarm batteries fail, the Fire Dept is a
distant
                  second for a Food Timer.  Gotta teach Doc to use the
microwave.
                  Least we got new windows in the Kitchen outta the deal.


> I can understand air speed
>in the runner, etc., but where it goes out the window for me is when you
see
>the runner, where it attaches to the plenum, is a square corner!  A lot of
>plenum / runner combinations are shaped like a "T".  Believe me, I'm not
>trying to make an issue out of this, just trying to understand and make the
>best setup feasible.
> Thanks.....Tim.



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 22:26:46 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: PWM motor controller
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-----Original Message-----
From: rauscher@icst.com <rauscher@icst.com>
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 4:04 PM
Subject: PWM motor controller


Thanks
Bruce
>
>Ok, have it done up. Find in the incoming directory
>a couple of files:
>    Pwm.txt Write up on circuit
>    pwm1.gif    Image of schematic
>Have fun, and let us know how your experiments work out!
>BobR.



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On Tue, 2 Feb 1999 16:37:48 +1100 "Ross Myers" <ponty@axis.jeack.com.au>
writes:
>
>
>>Hi all,
>>        I checked out the motec site (autronics also sell one) but
these
>>are too expensive for me .That is why I was hoping one could be built
(even
>>as a kit) at a fraction of the cost.Motecs unit is just right with the
>>screen and sensor.
>>Some of us race people are on tight budgets!
>>PAUL
>
>
>I know what you are saying Paul, but my point was if they felt the need
for
>a 32bit micro to run the thing something must be tricky.
>
>Regards
>
>Ross Myers

Either that, or they want you to believe that it's tricky and pay the
$$$$.  Even if there is a pressure and thermal sensor, it wouldn't take
much processing power to calculate a true lambda reading from all of
that.  Even if they are doing data logging...

Ray

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Bruce says:

> 
> I worked at an R+D shop, and for a while Ollie Morris (one of the great of
> manifold designers), and find Smokey Yunick's quote of "square ain't as bad
> as
> it seems" (or words to that effect) meaningful.  While many ports look like
> beautiful
> sculptures, sometimes it's just better to take you licks, and be done with
> it.
> Specially with a dry manifold.  Considering at 6,000 rpm from butterfly to
> intake valve the "air" is only in the intake for like .008 (and possibly
> much lesss) of a sec. it ain't there long enough to estabish boundry
> layers/laminar flow enough to matter (for other than all out race
> applications).  Worry about the bowl, and valve,
> the most.   Specialy if were still talking about a turbo VW.  Then we can
> get to keeping the total valve diameters not to exceed 85% of the bore, or
> shrouding
> gets to be an issue (non-hemi heads)..  Sir Harry Ricardo, just realised I
> hadn't mentioned him in two weeks.
> Cheers

Speaking of shrouding issues, I've just finished porting a head for 
my EFI Datsun L20B (2 valve non crossflow head).

I made a cylinder sized pedestal extension for my flow bench, to 
attempt to simulate the shrouding effect of the cylinder walls (I have 
a 92% combined valve dia/bore ratio). 

To my amazement the flow went up as compared to the vastly 
unrealistic unshrouded situation I had before that. A quick 
investigation with the 'flow direction and velocity indicator' (a piece 
of sewing cotton tied to some welding wire), revealed that the flow 
patterns had changed from being concentrated on the ceiling, to 
being concentrated on the outside wall of the port, with the flow 
curling around the valve stem . 

I found the optimum port shape changed significantly. A completely 
different approach needed to be taken, than in my previous setup.

I had always heard and read about how ports set low in the head 
don't flow worth a damn, but now I'm not so sure; my small low 
rectangular exhaust ports almost outflow my high, round smooth 
intakes! 

I also have a theory that low intake ports add significant swirl to the 
incoming mixture, for very little cost in flow.

My 2c


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 23:05:50 1999
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From: "Ord Millar" <ord@aei.ca>
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Subject: Re: Intake Runner Length
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Bruce,

can you explain the 85% diameter thing?  It's not fitting into my brain too
well...

Ord

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 10:52 PM
Subject: Re: Intake Runner Length


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Van Setten, Tim (AZ75) <Tim.Van.Setten@CAS.honeywell.com>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 4:47 PM
>Subject: RE: Intake Runner Length
>
>I worked at an R+D shop, and for a while Ollie Morris (one of the great of
>manifold designers), and find Smokey Yunick's quote of "square ain't as bad
>as
>it seems" (or words to that effect) meaningful.  While many ports look like
>beautiful
>sculptures, sometimes it's just better to take you licks, and be done with
>it.
>Specially with a dry manifold.  Considering at 6,000 rpm from butterfly to
>intake valve the "air" is only in the intake for like .008 (and possibly
>much lesss) of a sec. it ain't there long enough to estabish boundry
>layers/laminar flow enough to matter (for other than all out race
>applications).  Worry about the bowl, and valve,
>the most.   Specialy if were still talking about a turbo VW.  Then we can
>get to keeping the total valve diameters not to exceed 85% of the bore, or
>shrouding
>gets to be an issue (non-hemi heads)..  Sir Harry Ricardo, just realised I
>hadn't mentioned him in two weeks.
>Cheers
>Bruce          Well, if the smoke alarm batteries fail, the Fire Dept is a
>distant
>                  second for a Food Timer.  Gotta teach Doc to use the
>microwave.
>                  Least we got new windows in the Kitchen outta the deal.
>
>
>> I can understand air speed
>>in the runner, etc., but where it goes out the window for me is when you
>see
>>the runner, where it attaches to the plenum, is a square corner!  A lot of
>>plenum / runner combinations are shaped like a "T".  Believe me, I'm not
>>trying to make an issue out of this, just trying to understand and make
the
>>best setup feasible.
>> Thanks.....Tim.
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 23:10:44 1999
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From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas???
In-Reply-To: <9902021437.ZM828@rtrman.engr.sgi.com>
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 <00a001be4ee9$6c88be40$07633acf@nacelp>
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At 02:37 PM 2/2/99 -0800, you wrote:
>I've been quiet on this list for a while. I swapped a 93 LT1 into my early
>Corvette, and thanks to this list and others, have enjoyed that swap and am
>about to do a similar swap into a 69 Camaro with a 97 Z28 motor that I
couldn't
>pass up.
>
>I know some of the high horsepower guys I know have swapped from OBD II to OBD
>I PCMs due to difficulties of squeezing 600 HP out of an OBD II controlled
>motor. For a stock, smog exempt OBD II swap, are there any pitfalls that I
>should look out for? Anyone else on the list already done such a swap?

You may want to go Pre-OBD_I as well...
All of the OBD_I PCM's from GM I have seen on V8's have a pre and post cat
O2 sensor...  Pre OBD_I didn't.

===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 23:15:47 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas???
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At 04:49 PM 2/2/99 -0600, you wrote:

>If you are swapping in the standard stock unmodified engine you will
>only need to fake out the sensors that you aren't using, such as the
>additional O2 sensors behind the cats.  Also I believe there are some
>things that detect a loose gas cap, this will need to be faked out
>also, and probably several other sensors of the same sort.   That is I
>believe why they generally put a 95 pcm in, they don't have to worry
>about it.   The 96 + pcm does have some nice features, it will count
>misfires, but this is supposed to get rather confused if you put a cam
>that is too big in the car, and count alot of misfires and set SES
>lights and such.   

I was on the Impala SS list for a while... The 94/5 pre-OBD_II pcm's still
have the dual O2 sensors for each bank, pre and post cat.
According to several list members, the 94/5 Vette and camaro/firebird also
had the pre-post cat O2 sensors.

===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 23:20:10 1999
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Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 22:21:34 -0600
From: Tom Sharpe <twsharpe@mtco.com>
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>     Pwm.txt Write up on circuit
>     pwm1.gif    Image of schematic
>
> Have fun, and let us know how your experiments work out!
>
> BobR.
>
> Any questions, just post...

I got out my rusty Tech America catalog and foundall the resistors and
capacitors. I'm not a EE so I need lots of help.

1. What is a 18-24v  1Watt Zenier (I think I know but I need a PN).

2. IRFZ44 (pg73) T220 or IRFP044 (pg74) 4 pin package and 180W - 57
amps.

3. IN4753A or IN4755A (pg62) 36v 7ma - 43v 6ma

4. 470 uf 25V -- only electrolytic ???

5. For the .1 uf and 3.3 uf cap, use electrolytic?  can't find disk cap.
What voltage?? 16?  How do you convert pf to uf??

6. I want to run it from a stamp computer (or possibly a HC11 SBC)
driven from a Fuel pressure sensor and the tach lead. What do I need to
change?? I think the input is 0-1 volt or 0-5 volts. Help

25 psi <= 2K rpm,
75 psi >= 6K rpm,
rising rate from 2K to 6K rpm

I could drive it directly from the 0-5V fuel pressure sensor. -------
the lights just went on again...

Thanks in advance - I will test it with a pot -  what wattage??? will a
small one work?

Tom Sharpe



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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Intake Runner Length
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-----Original Message-----
From: Ord Millar <ord@aei.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 11:20 PM
Subject: Re: Intake Runner Length

Cylinder Bore x .85= some dimension.  The sum of both valves head diameters
should about equal that.
4" borex .85= 3.4   1.9" intake, and a 1.5" exhaust would work very well.
None hemi type head.
Not an absolute, but a good guide.  Yates, and them NASCAR guys are now
getting around that.  But, they spend a ton of money to do it.  Angle
cutting
the heads to get the stems more parrael to the cyl bore works to.
Bruce


>Bruce,
>
>can you explain the 85% diameter thing?  It's not fitting into my brain too
>well...
>
>Ord
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 10:52 PM
>Subject: Re: Intake Runner Length
>
>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Van Setten, Tim (AZ75) <Tim.Van.Setten@CAS.honeywell.com>
>>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>>Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 4:47 PM
>>Subject: RE: Intake Runner Length
>>
>>I worked at an R+D shop, and for a while Ollie Morris (one of the great of
>>manifold designers), and find Smokey Yunick's quote of "square ain't as
bad
>>as
>>it seems" (or words to that effect) meaningful.  While many ports look
like
>>beautiful
>>sculptures, sometimes it's just better to take you licks, and be done with
>>it.
>>Specially with a dry manifold.  Considering at 6,000 rpm from butterfly to
>>intake valve the "air" is only in the intake for like .008 (and possibly
>>much lesss) of a sec. it ain't there long enough to estabish boundry
>>layers/laminar flow enough to matter (for other than all out race
>>applications).  Worry about the bowl, and valve,
>>the most.   Specialy if were still talking about a turbo VW.  Then we can
>>get to keeping the total valve diameters not to exceed 85% of the bore, or
>>shrouding
>>gets to be an issue (non-hemi heads)..  Sir Harry Ricardo, just realised I
>>hadn't mentioned him in two weeks.
>>Cheers
>>Bruce          Well, if the smoke alarm batteries fail, the Fire Dept is a
>>distant
>>                  second for a Food Timer.  Gotta teach Doc to use the
>>microwave.
>>                  Least we got new windows in the Kitchen outta the deal.
>>
>>
>>> I can understand air speed
>>>in the runner, etc., but where it goes out the window for me is when you
>>see
>>>the runner, where it attaches to the plenum, is a square corner!  A lot
of
>>>plenum / runner combinations are shaped like a "T".  Believe me, I'm not
>>>trying to make an issue out of this, just trying to understand and make
>the
>>>best setup feasible.
>>> Thanks.....Tim.
>>
>>
>>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  2 23:40:05 1999
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Subject: Re: TC's and manual trans (was: Re: Smooth strategy)
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Gary Derian wrote:
> 
> I am defining a torque converter as a device that multiplies torque.  If
> there are only 2 elements, where does the torque multiplication come from?
> If one element is attached to the engine and the second element is attached
> to the transmission, there is no way the second element can have more torque
> than the first.  This two element thing you are describing may be a very
> nice device and it may have been called a torque converter but it cannot
> multiply torque.  For that, you need a reaction member.
> 
> I never took auto mechanics in high school.
> 
> Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>
> 
> >Gary Derian wrote:
> >>
> >> A torque converter must have at least three elements.  The extra torque
> >> comes from the reaction at the stator.  Its the hydraulic equivalent to a
> >> lever and fulcrum where the extra force comes from the fulcrum.  A torque
> >> converter is not more efficient than a fluid coupling but it does
> multiply
> >> torque when it is slipping adding an extra gear for starts.  At low
> slippage
> >> (cruise conditions) the stator freewheels and a torque converter reverts
> to
> >> a fluid coupling.  A 4 or 5 element converter would be the equivalent of
> a
> >> compound lever.
> >
> >Reference Wm Crouse - Automotive mechanics- fifth edition - Webster/Mc
> >Graw Hill.
> >Torque converters with only 2 elements DID exist. The definitive
> >difference between a fluid coupling and a TC is the shape of the vanes.
> >Note, a 3 element fluid coupling also existed.
> >
> >You took auto mechanics in high school - I taught it :}
	Compared to a straight vane fluid coupling, it did a wonderful job
-redirected SOME of the oil back onto the turbine instead of colliding
with the pump. I always considered only the 3 element or more as torque
converters too, but the fact remains, two element "torque converters"
did exist - however few.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 00:52:19 1999
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>Gary Derian wrote:
>>
>> I am defining a torque converter as a device that multiplies torque.  If
>> there are only 2 elements, where does the torque multiplication come from?
>> If one element is attached to the engine and the second element is attached
>> to the transmission, there is no way the second element can have more torque
>> than the first.  This two element thing you are describing may be a very
>> nice device and it may have been called a torque converter but it cannot
>> multiply torque.  For that, you need a reaction member.
>>
>> I never took auto mechanics in high school.
>>
>> Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>
>>
>> >Gary Derian wrote:
>> >>
>> >> A torque converter must have at least three elements.  The extra torque
>> >> comes from the reaction at the stator.  Its the hydraulic equivalent to a
>> >> lever and fulcrum where the extra force comes from the fulcrum.  A torque
>> >> converter is not more efficient than a fluid coupling but it does
>> multiply
>> >> torque when it is slipping adding an extra gear for starts.  At low
>> slippage
>> >> (cruise conditions) the stator freewheels and a torque converter reverts
>> to
>> >> a fluid coupling.  A 4 or 5 element converter would be the equivalent of
>> a
>> >> compound lever.
>> >
>> >Reference Wm Crouse - Automotive mechanics- fifth edition - Webster/Mc
>> >Graw Hill.
>> >Torque converters with only 2 elements DID exist. The definitive
>> >difference between a fluid coupling and a TC is the shape of the vanes.
>> >Note, a 3 element fluid coupling also existed.
>> >
>> >You took auto mechanics in high school - I taught it :}
>	Compared to a straight vane fluid coupling, it did a wonderful job
>-redirected SOME of the oil back onto the turbine instead of colliding
>with the pump. I always considered only the 3 element or more as torque
>converters too, but the fact remains, two element "torque converters"
>did exist - however few.


No way--a two element torque converter is a violation of Newton's laws!!

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 03:51:23 1999
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It just so happens our next race event in 2 weeks is at the drags, will have
a play with timing and fuel then and see what happens.

Thanks for your input so far.

Dan     dzorde@soanar.com.au

-----Original Message-----
From:	Bruce Plecan [SMTP:nacelp@bright.net]
Sent:	Monday, February 01, 1999 3:52 AM
To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:	Re: RE:EFI Questions


Could it be due to the compression,   yes.
I still would first try to measure the performance, and see what changing
the
timing mixture does.
Gray, is soot, soot is lack of O2.  I don't know of anything contrary to
that.
Bruce



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 04:44:36 1999
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References: <"Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
	 <00a001be4ee9$6c88be40$07633acf@nacelp> <4.1.19990202230937.0094c4a0@mail.lig.bellsouth.net>
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David A. Cooley wrote:
> 
> At 02:37 PM 2/2/99 -0800, you wrote:
> >I've been quiet on this list for a while. I swapped a 93 LT1 into my early
> >Corvette, and thanks to this list and others, have enjoyed that swap and am
> >about to do a similar swap into a 69 Camaro with a 97 Z28 motor that I
> couldn't
> >pass up.
> >
> >I know some of the high horsepower guys I know have swapped from OBD II to OBD
> >I PCMs due to difficulties of squeezing 600 HP out of an OBD II controlled
> >motor. For a stock, smog exempt OBD II swap, are there any pitfalls that I
> >should look out for? Anyone else on the list already done such a swap?
> 
> You may want to go Pre-OBD_I as well...
> All of the OBD_I PCM's from GM I have seen on V8's have a pre and post cat
> O2 sensor...  Pre OBD_I didn't.
> 
> 
Pre OBD_I?  But that would mean using an ECM that's pre 1988.

Shannen
===========================================================
>            David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
>      Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
>        I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
> ===========================================================


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 07:51:43 1999
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Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 06:48:47 -0600
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They are probably using a digital control loop ( read the voltage with adc,
set the current with dac ). Regulating heater wattage also. Just another way
of controlling this sensor. When you have lots of margin dollars in the
product and a team working on it full time it would make sense .

Steve

Raymond C Drouillard wrote:

> On Tue, 2 Feb 1999 16:37:48 +1100 "Ross Myers" <ponty@axis.jeack.com.au>
> writes:
> >
> >
> >>Hi all,
> >>        I checked out the motec site (autronics also sell one) but
> these
> >>are too expensive for me .That is why I was hoping one could be built
> (even
> >>as a kit) at a fraction of the cost.Motecs unit is just right with the
> >>screen and sensor.
> >>Some of us race people are on tight budgets!
> >>PAUL
> >
> >
> >I know what you are saying Paul, but my point was if they felt the need
> for
> >a 32bit micro to run the thing something must be tricky.
> >
> >Regards
> >
> >Ross Myers
>
> Either that, or they want you to believe that it's tricky and pay the
> $$$$.  Even if there is a pressure and thermal sensor, it wouldn't take
> much processing power to calculate a true lambda reading from all of
> that.  Even if they are doing data logging...
>
> Ray
>
> ___________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 07:52:43 1999
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cybergate.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: AutoClutch and manual trans (was: Re: Smooth strategy)
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 07:51:16 -0500
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The Ferrari setup is WAY more complicated than that.  Also motorcycles are
non-synchro.  A car trans won't shift with a ratchet shifter.  But two
pedals and no shifter is definitely the way to go.  We have been shifting
with 3 pedals and a shift lever since the '20s or teens.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>


>Why not go all the way and adopt the Ferrari setup. Use the standard
friction clutch
>operated by a power steering pump and cylinder along with the finger
switches on the
>steerring wheel to up/down shift, all controlled by the computer. Copy the
ratchet
>shifter mechanism from a motorcycle. Just two pedals and no shifter.....
>
>Let's see.... has anyone seen a Ferrari in the local U-Pull??          Tom


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 07:57:51 1999
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cybergate.net>
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Subject: Re: Love This
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Acoustic noise.  Also reduces electric load.  As far as electric noise goes,
I don't know but it must not be a problem.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

>> Cooling fans are PWM controlled to minimize noise when full cooling is
not
>> needed.
>>
>Electrical or acoustic?
>Shannen



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From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas???
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On Wed, 3 Feb 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote:

> David A. Cooley wrote:
> > 
> > At 02:37 PM 2/2/99 -0800, you wrote:
> > >I've been quiet on this list for a while. I swapped a 93 LT1 into my early
> > >Corvette, and thanks to this list and others, have enjoyed that swap and am
> > >about to do a similar swap into a 69 Camaro with a 97 Z28 motor that I
> > couldn't
> > >pass up.
> > >
> > >I know some of the high horsepower guys I know have swapped from OBD II to OBD
> > >I PCMs due to difficulties of squeezing 600 HP out of an OBD II controlled
> > >motor. For a stock, smog exempt OBD II swap, are there any pitfalls that I
> > >should look out for? Anyone else on the list already done such a swap?
> > 
> > You may want to go Pre-OBD_I as well...
> > All of the OBD_I PCM's from GM I have seen on V8's have a pre and post cat
> > O2 sensor...  Pre OBD_I didn't.
> > 
> > 
> Pre OBD_I?  But that would mean using an ECM that's pre 1988.
> 

I think he means before pre-ODB-II which would be 93 or so.  I don't
thing anyone really has had any problems with the 94/95 f-body PCM's
in this area.   To the originaly person doing the swap, there is
1-2 on this list working on the disassembly of a 94/95 f-body PCM
and if you know assembly the person would probably be glad for any
help.  

One problem with going with an earlier ecm, is if you have the tranny
with the engine then there may be a problem, as the tranny is
electronically controlled and the electronic control was not done in
the computer before 94.

On the 93 ECM I have alot of the critical info already figured out.  I
have parts of the fuel system figured out, all of the TCC system is
figured out.
		
				Roger


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1N4749A  - 1 watt, 24V zener
1000 pF = 1nF, 1000 nF = 1uF
(.1uF is 100000 pF)
.1uF is easy to find in disk or ceramic monolithic, not electrolytic.
3.3uF can be found, should have a part number containing 335.



-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
[mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Tom Sharpe
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 12:22 AM
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: PWM motor controller


>     Pwm.txt Write up on circuit
>     pwm1.gif    Image of schematic
>
> Have fun, and let us know how your experiments work out!
>
> BobR.
>
> Any questions, just post...

I got out my rusty Tech America catalog and foundall the resistors and
capacitors. I'm not a EE so I need lots of help.

1. What is a 18-24v  1Watt Zenier (I think I know but I need a PN).

2. IRFZ44 (pg73) T220 or IRFP044 (pg74) 4 pin package and 180W - 57
amps.

3. IN4753A or IN4755A (pg62) 36v 7ma - 43v 6ma

4. 470 uf 25V -- only electrolytic ???

5. For the .1 uf and 3.3 uf cap, use electrolytic?  can't find disk cap.
What voltage?? 16?  How do you convert pf to uf??

6. I want to run it from a stamp computer (or possibly a HC11 SBC)
driven from a Fuel pressure sensor and the tach lead. What do I need to
change?? I think the input is 0-1 volt or 0-5 volts. Help

25 psi <= 2K rpm,
75 psi >= 6K rpm,
rising rate from 2K to 6K rpm

I could drive it directly from the 0-5V fuel pressure sensor. -------
the lights just went on again...

Thanks in advance - I will test it with a pot -  what wattage??? will a
small one work?

Tom Sharpe




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OK, lets see...

>I got out my rusty Tech America catalog and found all the resistors and
>capacitors. I'm not a EE so I need lots of help.

Don't have a Tech America cat around, but I'll do my best...

>1. What is a 18-24v  1Watt Zenier (I think I know but I need a PN).

1N4746 is an 18V, to 1N4749 being a 24V, DO-41 package.

>2. IRFZ44 (pg73) T220 or IRFP044 (pg74) 4 pin package and 180W - 57
>amps.

I use the TO-220 packages, cheaper and for this app you don't need the
higher dissipation capability of the TO-247 package (IRFP044).

>3. IN4753A or IN4755A (pg62) 36v 7ma - 43v 6ma

Ah yes, part number and volts I used don't match, either will work,
but I would tend to use the 36v, 1N4753. The best would be a TVS,
unidirectional, 33V @ 600W.  Spec number: P6KE33A, there are
normally more characters following, but appear to be manufacture
dependent.

>4. 470 uf 25V -- only electrolytic ???

Electrolytic is fine, and cheap.

>5. For the .1 uf and 3.3 uf cap, use electrolytic?  can't find disk cap.
>What voltage?? 16?  How do you convert pf to uf??

The .1uf should be at least 16v. Ceramic disc is OK, but for best
stability, use a film cap. Polyester or polypropylene are good.
This cap should only affect the freq of the PWM, but sometimes
there can be side effects. (cap on pin 2 of LM393).

The 3.3uf, electrolytic is fine, again, min 16v, 25 or 35v works.

pf to uf, lets see, 1000pf = 1nf = .001uf, thats pico, nano, micro farad.
I think thats correct, just keep shifting the decimal point 3 at a time.

>6. I want to run it from a stamp computer (or possibly a HC11 SBC)
>driven from a Fuel pressure sensor and the tach lead. What do I need to
>change?? I think the input is 0-1 volt or 0-5 volts. Help

The Vin voltage range will be from 0 to 12V, drat, just thought of a potential
problem. The duty cycle will vary with the power supply voltage. I keep
forgetting that the auto volts vary greatly (as I slap my forehead, knocking
my CSH askew).

OK, this can work to our advantage, the incoming control volts
also need to be stable. So, lets power the circuit from +5V, and have
the incoming control volts (Vin), go from 0v to 5v for control.

What we need to do, is to use a LM7805 3-terminal regulator to create
a +5V supply. Run everything except the 2N2907 emitter from that.
This should work, BUT, I'll breadboard it tonight and try it.

OK, I'll test this out, and make the additions to the schematic.


>25 psi <= 2K rpm,
>75 psi >= 6K rpm,
>rising rate from 2K to 6K rpm
>
>I could drive it directly from the 0-5V fuel pressure sensor. -------
>the lights just went on again...
>
>Thanks in advance - I will test it with a pot -  what wattage??? will a
>small one work?

Yep, just about any old pot will do, even a 1 or 2 K Ohm will
work. (Let's see, 5V / 1K Ohm = 5mA, 5Ma * 5V = 0.025W, which
is under a 10th watt and worst case here, and I'm already thinking
of using a 5v supply).

>
>Tom Sharpe

BobR.

--




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 09:35:42 1999
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Subject: Re: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas???
References: <"Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
	 <00a001be4ee9$6c88be40$07633acf@nacelp> <4.1.19990202230937.0094c4a0@mail.lig.bellsouth.net>
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David,
	If the 94, 95 camaro had aftercat sensors they were for
decoration only. I know a half dozen people using the 94, 95
LT1 computer in nearly stock configurations without Aftercat
O2 sensors. There are two O2 sensors, but it is one in each
bank, and they are both before the cats.

		Ken

David A. Cooley wrote:
> 
> At 02:37 PM 2/2/99 -0800, you wrote:
> >I've been quiet on this list for a while. I swapped a 93 LT1 into my early
> >Corvette, and thanks to this list and others, have enjoyed that swap and am
> >about to do a similar swap into a 69 Camaro with a 97 Z28 motor that I
> couldn't
> >pass up.
> >
> >I know some of the high horsepower guys I know have swapped from OBD II to OBD
> >I PCMs due to difficulties of squeezing 600 HP out of an OBD II controlled
> >motor. For a stock, smog exempt OBD II swap, are there any pitfalls that I
> >should look out for? Anyone else on the list already done such a swap?
> 
> You may want to go Pre-OBD_I as well...
> All of the OBD_I PCM's from GM I have seen on V8's have a pre and post cat
> O2 sensor...  Pre OBD_I didn't.
> 
> ===========================================================
>            David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
>      Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
>        I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
> ===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 09:41:19 1999
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Ernst,

I haven't disected a 96 unit, so I can't give you a direct
answer. They seem to be very similar in many respects. I
have my 95 apart, socketed the PCM, and I am building a
Flash prom editor for this beast. If someone with a 96 wants
to open his or hers we can compare notes.

		Ken

Ernst Denbroeder wrote:
> 
> Curious...
> 
> Is the 96 PCM a pre 96 with additional circuitry or is it a ground up
> redesign?
> 
>         Ernst.
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Ken Kelly [SMTP:kenkelly@lucent.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 9:02 AM
> > To:   diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> > Subject:      Re: Chevy ECMs
> >
> > Curtis,
> >       The 96 PCM is OBD-II compliant. It is much more sensative
> > to changes than the older units. It will set a lot of error
> > codes if you make engine changes. A 94-95 PCM (16188051)from
> > any LT1 will plug into your wiring harness and run the
> > engine. It will not have OBD-II and not use the aftercat O2
> > sensors. Be sure to change the Knock sensor in the engine to
> > match the original PCM application. Some people have had
> > success changing the Knock module in the PCM to the one from
> > the original PCM and not changing the KS.
> >
> >               Ken
> >
> > > Curtis Mittong wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a 96 Impala SS with an LT1.  I also have a bare LT1
> > > block that I plan to bore and stroke to 409.  I already
> > > know about all of the mechanical pitfalls I will hit, but
> > > wondered how much HP will the stock PCM handle with
> > > reprogramming and about #52 injectors?  Will I be able to
> > > do it?  If not, what PCM should I use?
> > >
> > > Curtis

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 10:03:15 1999
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Subject: PWM controller correction
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For those of you who didn't read through all of my response
to Tom's questions, there is a potential got'cha. I have
the 12v vehicle power being used to power up the PWM portion
of the circuit.

Vehicle volts vary greatly.

This will cause a change in duty cycle as the vehicle volts
change. Don't think we need this 'feature'.

But, the fix is easy, use a LM7805 3-terminal regulator to
create a stable 5 volt supply. Run the PWM portion (LM393),
from this supply. (Checked the data book, LM393 is spec'd
down to a 2V supply).

This will also change the Vin control voltage to 0 to 5 volts.
This should be better all around, as this will allow you to
create a more stable control voltage.

I'll breadboard this tonight, test it out, add the changes to
the schematic, add in missing component specs, and get it posted.

BobR.

Thank you for your patience, we now return
you to our normally scheduled program.

--



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 10:29:27 1999
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From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
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Subject: Re: Chevy ECMs
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On Wed, 3 Feb 1999, Ken Kelly wrote:

> Ernst,
> 
> I haven't disected a 96 unit, so I can't give you a direct
> answer. They seem to be very similar in many respects. I
> have my 95 apart, socketed the PCM, and I am building a
> Flash prom editor for this beast. If someone with a 96 wants
> to open his or hers we can compare notes.
> 
> 		Ken
> 

Ken,

I assume you have been looking at what I am doing on the 93's.  We
might want to get together in writing the flash prom editors.  I have
noticed that other editors don't do very well with some of the single
byte parameters.  Mine is being written in VB 4.0, and I will probably
need modules/screens for the TCC, fuel setup, spark setup, and misc
parameters, and probably on a 96 for the trannyu shifting setup.


			Roger


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 10:34:38 1999
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Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 10:31:03 -0500
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There's a virus (worm, actually), that attaches itself to your outgoing email w/o your knowing about it.  I got it & may have passed it to this group, or individual members.  Goes by the name HAPPY99.EXE - please check your drive - if you find it, do NOT run it, delete it.

If there IS a problem w/ it, contact me for the fix.

Sorry about that - Barry

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 10:40:18 1999
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From: "Van Setten, Tim (AZ75)" <Tim.Van.Setten@CAS.honeywell.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Intake Runner Length
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 08:38:38 -0700 
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> To my amazement the flow went up as compared to the vastly 
> unrealistic unshrouded situation I had before that. A quick 
> investigation with the 'flow direction and velocity indicator' (a piece 
> of sewing cotton tied to some welding wire), revealed that the flow 
> patterns had changed from being concentrated on the ceiling, to 
> being concentrated on the outside wall of the port, with the flow 
> curling around the valve stem . 
> 
> I found the optimum port shape changed significantly. A completely 
> different approach needed to be taken, than in my previous setup.
> 
> I had always heard and read about how ports set low in the head 
> don't flow worth a damn, but now I'm not so sure; my small low 
> rectangular exhaust ports almost outflow my high, round smooth 
> intakes! 
> 
> I also have a theory that low intake ports add significant swirl to the 
> incoming mixture, for very little cost in flow.
> 
> My 2c
> 
Exactly right!  We have been playing around with different porting schemes
and found that you don't want the air to tumble in around the valve,
instead, if you can make it swirl in (Vortec's idea?) you can get a lot more
in.  "Some" drag-racers claim that you want the swirl to go ccw also. (Why,
and for what purpose? I can't imagine).  We haven't got to playing with
square or rectangular runners yet.  Our cyl-to-bore ratio is 82%.  (It's
easier to turn up the boost to get more).
Good input, thanks.....Tim.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 11:12:45 1999
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  Thanks for the info!  I am planning to use the circuit for cooling fan control; will use water teperature sender instead of 5k pot; is there anything wrong with doing that?  

At 02:15 PM 2/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
>
>Ok, have it done up. Find in the incoming directory
>a couple of files:
>
>    Pwm.txt Write up on circuit
>    pwm1.gif    Image of schematic
>
>
>Have fun, and let us know how your experiments work out!
>
>BobR.
>
>
>Any questions, just post...
>
>--
>
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 11:30:00 1999
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From: "Kurek, Larry" <lkurek@anl.gov>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas???
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 10:30:15 -0600 
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Well, since I *have* a 94 Camaro, I can guarantee you that it does NOT have
post cat O2 sensors. These made their debut on 96+ OBDII cars. Mine is OBDI.
Other difference is that the F-body PCM uses only one knock sensor, whereas
the Y-body (vette) uses two. AFAIK, the ONLY time post cat O2's were used (Y
and F-body) was 96 up. 

Also, FWIW, there is a place called Casper electronics that makes the rear
O2 simulators. heard they work pretty well :)

TTYL!

Larry

> At 04:49 PM 2/2/99 -0600, you wrote:
> 
> >If you are swapping in the standard stock unmodified engine you will
> >only need to fake out the sensors that you aren't using, such as the
> >additional O2 sensors behind the cats.  Also I believe there are some
> >things that detect a loose gas cap, this will need to be faked out
> >also, and probably several other sensors of the same sort.   
> That is I
> >believe why they generally put a 95 pcm in, they don't have to worry
> >about it.   The 96 + pcm does have some nice features, it will count
> >misfires, but this is supposed to get rather confused if you 
> put a cam
> >that is too big in the car, and count alot of misfires and set SES
> >lights and such.   
> 
> I was on the Impala SS list for a while... The 94/5 
> pre-OBD_II pcm's still
> have the dual O2 sensors for each bank, pre and post cat.
> According to several list members, the 94/5 Vette and 
> camaro/firebird also
> had the pre-post cat O2 sensors.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 11:33:01 1999
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In a message dated 99-02-01 12:49:11 EST, Teller.John@orbital.com writes:

>Is there something highly calibrated in there that would be destroyed if
>the regulator were disassembled, or is the warning there because the thing
>needs to be taken apart in a press and the spring pressure let out slowly?
>
>

The fuel regulator can be disassembled without any problems, unless it has
high hours/ mileage.   The reg consists of a steel disc on a swivel attatched
to the diaphragm.  The seat is a tube with a square end. 

 The steel disc tends to get grooved by the tube, not a problem when the parts
are bolted together.  However, when you unbolt the diaphragm, it's imposible
to reassemble the reg in exactly the same location. This will cause low fuel
pressure.

Harold

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 11:33:30 1999
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Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 11:31:54 EST
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>James Weiler wrote:
>> 
>> gents,
>> 
>> Can somebody tell me why fusible links are all the rage now rather
>> than a fuse?  Is there some niffty piece of info on these things that I'm
>> missing?
>
>

Fusible links really aren't that new, the 73 Dodge Dart used a few.  The main
advantges I see are:

1 Low cost to use.

2 No fuse block required, they can be installed close to the source of power.
( this reduces the length of unprotected wireing)

3 Circuits can be split up into smaller zones so a failure dosn't takeout
vital systems.

4 No/ little chance of the fuse link wearing out. Yes wearing out.  As someone
has also posted, regular fuses that are used close to their rated capacity
will pop for no apparent reason.  This is from thermal cycleing.

5 I "think" fusible links have a lower resistance that a glass ( SFE 20) or a
ATC/ ATO plastic fuse.

It's posible to read a failed fuse, a silver spot usually means a dead short (
pinched wire) . A melted link is usually a overload ( fan motor with bad
bearings) or possibily a worn out fuse.

Other trivia.  Light bulbs do wear out before burning out.  Tunsgsten from the
hot filament coats the inside of the glass reducing the transmitted light and
the filament starts to develop thin spots.  If the glass looks black/silver or
the filament looks grainy black/ silver the bulb should be replaced.  

Mufflers do have bearings.

It's possible to walk up hill to school both ways.


Harold

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 11:39:53 1999
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Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 11:40:02 -0500
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: VIRUS alert....
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On Wed, 3 Feb 1999, Barry Tisdale wrote:

> Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 10:31:03 -0500
> From: Barry Tisdale <btisdale@cybersol.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: VIRUS alert....
> 
> There's a virus (worm, actually), that attaches itself to your outgoing email w/o your knowing about it.  I got it & may have passed it to this group, or individual members.  Goes by the name HAPPY99.EXE - please check your drive - if you find it, do NOT run it, delete it.
> 
> If there IS a problem w/ it, contact me for the fix.
> 
> Sorry about that - Barry
> 

do you have any other details? ( I'm not worried at work but, home mail 
is win.95) This sounds strang but if anyone catches this bug could you 
send it to me ( as a programming virii are interesting ) I have a zoo 
full of them 8-)


Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 12:39:00 1999
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Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 12:40:49 -0500
From: Ken Kelly <kenkelly@lucent.com>
Organization: Lucent Technologies
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Sounds Good. I just started mine. It is in VB5! I have the
basic structure working. I have implemented the basic
windows functions like Open & save as. I had a little
trouble with the binary files - I'm not a basic programmer,
but I have it all working now. I have read a file, checked
the data internally, and written the data out into another
file using Save as. The files are identicle. I am now coding
the scramble & unscramble chip function.  I expected to
actually start the edit parameters later this week. As you
know I have to deal with two chips, the event & the timer
side. My plan is to start with basic edit by name with some
reasonable scaling built in. I will add the fancy graphics
and block edits later.

	I would like to see how similar our data tables are. It
looks like I really have 0xFFF of data table in each chip.
Some of the items may be the same.

 Let's talk off list. I have your email, and you have mine.

		Ken

Roger Heflin wrote:
> 
> On Wed, 3 Feb 1999, Ken Kelly wrote:
> 
> > Ernst,
> >
> > I haven't disected a 96 unit, so I can't give you a direct
> > answer. They seem to be very similar in many respects. I
> > have my 95 apart, socketed the PCM, and I am building a
> > Flash prom editor for this beast. If someone with a 96 wants
> > to open his or hers we can compare notes.
> >
> >               Ken
> >
> 
> Ken,
> 
> I assume you have been looking at what I am doing on the 93's.  We
> might want to get together in writing the flash prom editors.  I have
> noticed that other editors don't do very well with some of the single
> byte parameters.  Mine is being written in VB 4.0, and I will probably
> need modules/screens for the TCC, fuel setup, spark setup, and misc
> parameters, and probably on a 96 for the trannyu shifting setup.
> 
>                         Roger

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 13:32:01 1999
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Subject: Re: PWM motor controller
References: <3.0.3.32.19990203101421.00710184@mail.ot.centuryinter.net>
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GM temp sensor senders aren't linear.  There are huge changes in
resistance when cold, decreasing as temp increases.  In fan country,
(210+ degrees), resistance goes from around 185 Ohms @ 210F to 55 at
260. Just a FWIW.
Shannen

Clarence Wood wrote:
> 
>   Thanks for the info!  I am planning to use the circuit for cooling fan control; will use water teperature sender instead of 5k pot; is there anything wrong with doing that?
> 
> At 02:15 PM 2/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >Ok, have it done up. Find in the incoming directory
> >a couple of files:
> >
> >    Pwm.txt Write up on circuit
> >    pwm1.gif    Image of schematic
> >
> >
> >Have fun, and let us know how your experiments work out!
> >
> >BobR.
> >
> >
> >Any questions, just post...
> >
> >--
> >
> >
> >


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 14:03:22 1999
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Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 13:02:06 -0600
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From: Clarence Wood <clarencewood@centuryinter.net>
Subject: Re: PWM motor controller
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At 09:30 AM 2/3/99 -0500, you wrote:
(snip)
>>4. 470 uf 25V -- only electrolytic ???
>
>Electrolytic is fine, and cheap.
>
(big snip)

  I am lost on this one!  The only 470 I can find on the schematic is a resistor.  Where is the 470 uf capacitor used?

Clarence

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 14:49:00 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: fusible link questions
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 13:49:12 -0600 
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GM shop manuals have a chart for fuse link applications and repair of blown
links. The manual indicates that the fuse link should be 4 wire sizes
smaller than the wire being protected. The only real problem with fuse links
is when the crimps become corroded and
heat up due to high resistance.   

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	AL8001@aol.com [SMTP:AL8001@aol.com]
> Sent:	Wednesday, February 03, 1999 10:32 AM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: fusible link questions
> 
> >James Weiler wrote:
> >> 
> >> gents,
> >> 
> >> Can somebody tell me why fusible links are all the rage now rather
> >> than a fuse?  Is there some niffty piece of info on these things that
> I'm
> >> missing?
> >
> >
> 
> Fusible links really aren't that new, the 73 Dodge Dart used a few.  The
> main
> advantges I see are:
> 
> 1 Low cost to use.
> 
> 2 No fuse block required, they can be installed close to the source of
> power.
> ( this reduces the length of unprotected wireing)
> 
> 3 Circuits can be split up into smaller zones so a failure dosn't takeout
> vital systems.
> 
> 4 No/ little chance of the fuse link wearing out. Yes wearing out.  As
> someone
> has also posted, regular fuses that are used close to their rated capacity
> will pop for no apparent reason.  This is from thermal cycleing.
> 
> 5 I "think" fusible links have a lower resistance that a glass ( SFE 20)
> or a
> ATC/ ATO plastic fuse.
> 
> It's posible to read a failed fuse, a silver spot usually means a dead
> short (
> pinched wire) . A melted link is usually a overload ( fan motor with bad
> bearings) or possibily a worn out fuse.
> 
> Other trivia.  Light bulbs do wear out before burning out.  Tunsgsten from
> the
> hot filament coats the inside of the glass reducing the transmitted light
> and
> the filament starts to develop thin spots.  If the glass looks
> black/silver or
> the filament looks grainy black/ silver the bulb should be replaced.  
> 
> Mufflers do have bearings.
> 
> It's possible to walk up hill to school both ways.
> 
> 
> Harold

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 16:16:35 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas???
In-Reply-To: <36B81947.E62CCD2@grolen.com>
References: <"Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
 <00a001be4ee9$6c88be40$07633acf@nacelp>
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At 04:39 AM 2/3/99 -0500, you wrote:

>> 
>> 
>Pre OBD_I?  But that would mean using an ECM that's pre 1988.

Actually, the 94/95 was more like OBD_I 1/2...  93 and earlier should work
without the rear sensor
===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

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Subject: Re: Chevy ECMs
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At 09:43 AM 2/3/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Ernst,
>
>I haven't disected a 96 unit, so I can't give you a direct
>answer. They seem to be very similar in many respects. I
>have my 95 apart, socketed the PCM, and I am building a
>Flash prom editor for this beast. If someone with a 96 wants
>to open his or hers we can compare notes.
>
Ken,
What car is your 95 PCM from?
I have an extra I'm dissecting for my 95 LeSabre...
Still has a mem-cal, but has EEprom as well (I think...)

===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

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"David A. Cooley" wrote:
> >Pre OBD_I?  But that would mean using an ECM that's pre 1988.
> 
> Actually, the 94/95 was more like OBD_I 1/2...  93 and earlier should work
> without the rear sensor

I'll give you the OBD 1 1/2 - I can't use a paper clip to flash SES
codes on my '94 Z28. However, there is *no* O2 sensor after the cat.
Know that for a fact. The stock exhaust is sitting in my garage storage
closet - and it butts right up to the cat...

Plus, the ALDL info available is significantly more for the '94/95 than
there was for the '93. Not that more is better, there's just more
there... ;)

-Andrew

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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 00:45:50 +1100
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I have a copy of the article and can scan/ocr it in if anyone needs it.

Wayne.

----------
From: 	steve ravet
Sent: 	Wednesday, February 03, 1999 3:05 AM
To: 	diy_efi
Subject: 	Tim Drury article

Several people have written me asking about the distributorless ignition
article that Tim Drury wrote.  There is a pointer to it on the DIY_EFI
page.  The article has been unavailable for some time now.  Does anyone
know the wherabouts of either Tim or his article?

--steve


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 16:37:06 1999
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Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 15:38:23 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Clarence Wood <clarencewood@centuryinter.net>
Subject: RE: fusible link questions
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 >
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  Just installed a 100 amp altenator and the guy at the shop who sold me the unit told me to run a line of fusible link (14 Ga) from the Bat. terminal on the alternator to the positive terminal of the batery.  The length of fusible link needed was about 4 ft. long.  Should I have ran a 3ft 9in wire of 10 Ga and then soldered in a 3 inch piece of 14 Ga fusible link?

Clarence

At 01:49 PM 2/3/99 -0600, you wrote:
>GM shop manuals have a chart for fuse link applications and repair of blown
>links. The manual indicates that the fuse link should be 4 wire sizes
>smaller than the wire being protected. The only real problem with fuse links
>is when the crimps become corroded and
>heat up due to high resistance.   
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From:	AL8001@aol.com [SMTP:AL8001@aol.com]
>> Sent:	Wednesday, February 03, 1999 10:32 AM
>> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>> Subject:	Re: fusible link questions
>> 
>> >James Weiler wrote:
>> >> 
>> >> gents,
>> >> 
>> >> Can somebody tell me why fusible links are all the rage now rather
>> >> than a fuse?  Is there some niffty piece of info on these things that
>> I'm
>> >> missing?
>> >
>> >
>> 
>> Fusible links really aren't that new, the 73 Dodge Dart used a few.  The
>> main
>> advantges I see are:
>> 
>> 1 Low cost to use.
>> 
>> 2 No fuse block required, they can be installed close to the source of
>> power.
>> ( this reduces the length of unprotected wireing)
>> 
>> 3 Circuits can be split up into smaller zones so a failure dosn't takeout
>> vital systems.
>> 
>> 4 No/ little chance of the fuse link wearing out. Yes wearing out.  As
>> someone
>> has also posted, regular fuses that are used close to their rated capacity
>> will pop for no apparent reason.  This is from thermal cycleing.
>> 
>> 5 I "think" fusible links have a lower resistance that a glass ( SFE 20)
>> or a
>> ATC/ ATO plastic fuse.
>> 
>> It's posible to read a failed fuse, a silver spot usually means a dead
>> short (
>> pinched wire) . A melted link is usually a overload ( fan motor with bad
>> bearings) or possibily a worn out fuse.
>> 
>> Other trivia.  Light bulbs do wear out before burning out.  Tunsgsten from
>> the
>> hot filament coats the inside of the glass reducing the transmitted light
>> and
>> the filament starts to develop thin spots.  If the glass looks
>> black/silver or
>> the filament looks grainy black/ silver the bulb should be replaced.  
>> 
>> Mufflers do have bearings.
>> 
>> It's possible to walk up hill to school both ways.
>> 
>> 
>> Harold
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 16:53:37 1999
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Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 16:53:21 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas???
In-Reply-To: <36B8BEFF.EE84C5D4@mindspring.com>
References: <"Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
 <00a001be4ee9$6c88be40$07633acf@nacelp>
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At 04:26 PM 2/3/99 -0500, you wrote:
>"David A. Cooley" wrote:
>> >Pre OBD_I?  But that would mean using an ECM that's pre 1988.
>> 
>> Actually, the 94/95 was more like OBD_I 1/2...  93 and earlier should work
>> without the rear sensor
>
>I'll give you the OBD 1 1/2 - I can't use a paper clip to flash SES
>codes on my '94 Z28. However, there is *no* O2 sensor after the cat.
>Know that for a fact. The stock exhaust is sitting in my garage storage
>closet - and it butts right up to the cat...
>
>Plus, the ALDL info available is significantly more for the '94/95 than
>there was for the '93. Not that more is better, there's just more
>there... ;)


Yep.. I've got a 95 LeSabre with the 3800 V6.  No 2nd O2, but there is a
temp probe in the exhaust immediately after the cat... 
I keep thinking the guys on the Impala SS list said there was a 2nd O2 on
each bank aftrer the cat, but I copuld be wrong...
(Won't be the first time!)

===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 16:53:43 1999
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Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 16:49:09 -0500
Subject: Groan... Not another VIRUS alert....
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I know. I know.  It isn't really EFI related, but... ;)

I don't usually forward virus warnings because they're usually hoaxes
but this one looks pretty dangerous, so a word to the wise....

IF YOU RECEIVE AN EMAIL ENTITLED "Badtimes", DELETE IT IMMEDIATELY!
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO OPEN OR READ IT. This one is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS.

It will not only erase everything on your hard drive, but it will
also delete anything on disks within 20 feet of your computer.

It demagnetizes the stripes on ALL of your credit cards.

It reprograms your ATM access code, screws up the tracking on your
VCR and uses subspace field harmonics to scratch any CD's you
attempt to play.

It will re-calibrate your refrigerator's coolness settings so all
your ice cream melts and your milk curdles.

It will reprogram your phone autodial to call only your
mother-in-law's number.

It will reverse the hot and cold water knobs on all your faucets.

This virus will mix antifreeze into your fish tank.

It will drink all your beer.

It will leave dirty socks on the coffee table when you are expecting
company.

Its radioactive emissions will cause your toe jam and bellybutton
fuzz (be honest, you have some) to migrate behind your ears.

It will replace your shampoo with Nair and your Nair with Rogaine,
all while dating your current boy/girlfriend behind your back and
billing their hotel rendezvous to your Visa card.

It will cause you to run with scissors and throw things in a way
that is fun until someone loses an eye.

It will give you Dutch Elm Disease and Tinnitus.

It will rewrite your backup files, changing all your active verbs
to passive tense and incorporating undetectable misspellings which
grossly change the interpretation of key sentences.

It will leave the toilet seat up and leave your hair dryer plugged
in dangerously close to a full bathtub.

It will not only remove the forbidden tags from your mattresses
and pillows, but it will also refill your skim milk with whole milk.

It will cause your sweaters to pill.

It will replace all your luncheon meat with Spam.

It is insidious and subtle.
It is awful and terrifying to behold.
Like Byron, it is mad, bad and dangerous to know.

These are just a few signs of infection.  I consider the bellybutton fuzz
warning to be very serious!

FORWARD THIS URGENT INFORMATION TO EVERYONE YOU KNOW IMMEDIATELY!!!

If you still don't think this is another hoax, I may have a bridge you may
be interested in!




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 17:23:29 1999
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Greg Hermann wrote:

> 
> No way--a two element torque converter is a violation of Newton's laws!!
> 
> Regards, Greg
Then what do you call a 3 element fluid coupling? The torque multiplier
in the early hydramatic did not make it a torque converter - it was
still a fluid coupling because it had tangential vanes. This was used
on  some Pontiac Hydros.
The curved vanes of the torque converter reroute the oil to the backside
of the pump instead of the front side - thereby increasing torque. The
addition of the stator in a torque converter is much more effective than
a multiplier in a fluid coupling for this reason.
Don't believe me - go get a good automotive mechanics text book -
preferably from the era when fluid couplings were not ancient history
and check it out.

An old fossil who's actually seen, driven, and worked on them.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 17:47:58 1999
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Subject: Re: TC's and manual trans (was: Re: Smooth strategy)
References: <01cd01be4ed0$199d5ce0$657cbdc0@dilbert.nordson.com> <36B7D338.1CE6@ibm.net>
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By the way, the fluid coupling was first used by Chrysler on the 1939
Custom Imperial 8. The unit was sealed with no external cooling.
The Olds Hydramatic of 1937 -1938 used engine oil in the transmission.
The Hudson of the same era used a wet disc clutch with "Hudsonite"
fluid.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 17:50:12 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Tim Drury article
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 16:50:25 -0600 
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Please send one my way...   Thanks Don

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	wmcdonal@hutch.com.au [SMTP:wmcdonal@hutch.com.au]
> Sent:	Wednesday, February 03, 1999 7:46 AM
> To:	'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'
> Subject:	RE: Tim Drury article
> 
> I have a copy of the article and can scan/ocr it in if anyone needs it.
> 
> Wayne.
> 
> 	----------
> 	From: 	steve ravet
> 	Sent: 	Wednesday, February 03, 1999 3:05 AM
> 	To: 	diy_efi
> 	Subject: 	Tim Drury article
> 
> 	Several people have written me asking about the distributorless
> ignition
> 	article that Tim Drury wrote.  There is a pointer to it on the
> DIY_EFI
> 	page.  The article has been unavailable for some time now.  Does
> anyone
> 	know the wherabouts of either Tim or his article?
> 
> 	--steve
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 17:53:39 1999
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Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 17:54:13 -0500
From: "Clarence L.Snyder" <clare.snyder.on.ca@ibm.net>
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Subject: Re: fusible link questions
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Clarence Wood wrote:
> 
>   Just installed a 100 amp altenator and the guy at the shop who sold me the unit told me to run a line of fusible link (14 Ga) from the Bat. terminal on the alternator to the positive terminal of the batery.  The length of fusible link needed was about 4 ft. long.  Should I have ran a 3ft 9in wire of 10 Ga and then soldered in a 3 inch piece of 14 Ga fusible link?
> 
> Clarence
 snipp
 
Most definitely!!! Actually, 10 gauge is light enough for a 100 amp
alternator. Usually the fusible link is nasty to solder too - it is
usually crimped.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 18:35:49 1999
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Subject: Re: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas???
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>
>Also, FWIW, there is a place called Casper electronics that makes the rear
>O2 simulators. heard they work pretty well :)
>



Please tell me more about Casper electronics.



Thanks;
Walt.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 19:06:11 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: TC's and manual trans (was: Re: Smooth strategy)
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>Greg Hermann wrote:
>
>>
>> No way--a two element torque converter is a violation of Newton's laws!!
>>
>> Regards, Greg
>Then what do you call a 3 element fluid coupling? The torque multiplier
>in the early hydramatic did not make it a torque converter - it was
>still a fluid coupling because it had tangential vanes. This was used
>on  some Pontiac Hydros.
>The curved vanes of the torque converter reroute the oil to the backside
>of the pump instead of the front side - thereby increasing torque. The
>addition of the stator in a torque converter is much more effective than
>a multiplier in a fluid coupling for this reason.
>Don't believe me - go get a good automotive mechanics text book -
>preferably from the era when fluid couplings were not ancient history
>and check it out.
>
>An old fossil who's actually seen, driven, and worked on them.

And how many legs does a cow have if you call it's tail a leg??

Correct answer is either one or five, depending on the level of abstraction!!

Very simply, there is no way to put more torque in to an output shaft whan
what comes into the input shaft unless some part of the "contraption" puts
a reaction torque into the case. PERIOD.

"Every action must have an equal and opposite reaction."

Not even Einstein altered that one!!

Regards, Greg



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Hmmm, I just soldered in a few last night and had no problems.  It 
soldered like regular wire does.  Have I missed something here?

jw

On Wed, 3 Feb 1999, Clarence L.Snyder wrote:

> Most definitely!!! Actually, 10 gauge is light enough for a 100 amp
> alternator. Usually the fusible link is nasty to solder too - it is
> usually crimped.
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 19:34:32 1999
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The Motec sensor is it the same as the LAF sensor that Honda uses. 
You know the one with pump cell control? In that case it should have
5 wires  Cell Volatge input, Pump Cell Control, and Ref. Voltage
those 3 for sensor part  + 2 wires for heater part???

Look at
http://www.splitsec.com/products/ego1/ego1ds.htm

If Motec uses the same unit it is nothing more than volatge mapped,
temperature compensated circuit with a fancier regular zirconium O2
sensor.


     Thanks Len

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 20:44:41 1999
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The fusable link is intended to protect the wiring harness from frying -
through out the vehicle. It is the weakest link in the wiring 'chain'. They
normally have a high temperature insulation that also protects any adjacent
wires from being burned.

It is not clear to me why you would need to put a fusible link in the wire
that runs from the alternator + to the battery +. You sure dont want to
"unload the alternator" while it is charging. And I asume that there are no
other wires in series with that charging wire. 

I'd be glad to discuss this with you further , if needed.

    Jerry   (some experience with charging systems) 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 21:03:25 1999
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From: Robert Scott Winnicki <bobw@WPI.EDU>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: any one played with MR2 superchargers?
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subject says it all....


specifically, anyone ever taken one of these off the MR@ and used it
somewhere else, like say a rotory.  From what I've read about them they
aren't to big, and have a very nice blowoff valve/SC bypass system built
in. Plus they have the electronic cultch built in the pully.  Any experts
on these guys?  my idea is to try to use one to spool up the turbo on a
RX7, try to give it a little more low end.  I have the SC it self (but
none of the hoese and manifoilds from the MR2, plus I think my SC is in
need of a rebuild.  (It was a gift)

any way... I'd like to talk to some one how knows them befor I go out and
try to find a another one with all the hoeses still there.  (plus from
what I've heard they are hard to find.)

bob  



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 21:20:51 1999
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>The Motec sensor is it the same as the LAF sensor that Honda uses.
>You know the one with pump cell control? In that case it should have
>5 wires  Cell Volatge input, Pump Cell Control, and Ref. Voltage
>those 3 for sensor part  + 2 wires for heater part???

Believe the MoTeC unit uses a Bosch sensor. Honda uses an NGK/NTK sensor.

Regards, Greg
>
>Look at
>http://www.splitsec.com/products/ego1/ego1ds.htm
>
>If Motec uses the same unit it is nothing more than volatge mapped,
>temperature compensated circuit with a fancier regular zirconium O2
>sensor.
>
>
>     Thanks Len



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 21:40:53 1999
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Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 19:07:41 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Barry Tisdale <btisdale@cybersol.com>
Subject: Re: Groan... Not another VIRUS alert....
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John & group -

Yeah, I know, nothing marks a newbie like forwarding a VIRUS ALERT!!!!

However, I'm not a newbie and I DID receive this one (4x copies); several members of a dental mailing list I'm on RAN it, not too bright, but they did.  Its technically not a virus, but a worm, that replicates itself till your hard disk has zero bytes left and performs other mayhem.  Attaches itself to any outgoing email w/o the sender's knowledge.

Interesting thing is that several of these folks have virus checkers running and *none* found anything amiss.  The dark side still prevails......

FWIW - Barry
At 04:49 PM 2/3/99 -0500, you wrote:
>I know. I know.  It isn't really EFI related, but... ;)
>
>I don't usually forward virus warnings because they're usually hoaxes
>but this one looks pretty dangerous, so a word to the wise....


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From: "Thomas Matthews" <tmatthew@stny.lrun.com>
To: <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Fuel injection cleaning tools
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 21:56:49 -0500
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Anyone have a source for these FI cleaning tools, the ones that have a
regulator valve and use a pressurized aerosol can? Summit used to sell
these, but they have since discontinued these...
TIA,
Tom


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From: "Jon Fedock" <Galadar@worldnet.att.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 808 Request
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Hello All,
    I have a request, hopefully someone here can help me out. I have 2
vehicles that I have transplanted TPI into. One is a 305/t-5 and the other
is a 350/700r. I have a bad MAF on the 305, and would like to use this as an
excuse to change over to a MAP style setup to eliminate some of my plumbing
nightmare. Since I am using the 165 ECM, I am thinking of using a 808
calibration (ASBX ?). As I understand it, ASBX was for a 5.0L motor, so it
should be pretty close? I can hadle the wiring differences. But not the
Eprom. This is where it gets tricky. I don't have (or have access to) an
EPROM burner. Would anyone on the list be willing to burn the required chip?
I will pay for time, shipping, the chip itself, etc.
    Or, would I be better off to just go and get a 730 and a Memcal for a
comparable Camaro/Firebird (More $$$)? My plan is to eventually put MAP on
the other car also, but I know the calibration is probably too far off. One
step at a time.
Thanks for any input or correction,
Jon Fedock


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 22:21:34 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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-----Original Message-----
From: Jon Fedock <Galadar@worldnet.att.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 10:10 PM
Subject: 808 Request

The info is out for editing what you need to do. All, you need is a burning
program,
eraser, some more reading and you can do your own.  At this stage a custom
is about the same as the materials for you so to all you want.
Bruce


>Hello All,
>    I have a request, hopefully someone here can help me out. I have 2
>vehicles that I have transplanted TPI into. One is a 305/t-5 and the other
>is a 350/700r. I have a bad MAF on the 305, and would like to use this as
an
>excuse to change over to a MAP style setup to eliminate some of my plumbing
>nightmare. Since I am using the 165 ECM, I am thinking of using a 808
>calibration (ASBX ?). As I understand it, ASBX was for a 5.0L motor, so it
>should be pretty close? I can hadle the wiring differences. But not the
>Eprom. This is where it gets tricky. I don't have (or have access to) an
>EPROM burner. Would anyone on the list be willing to burn the required
chip?
>I will pay for time, shipping, the chip itself, etc.
>    Or, would I be better off to just go and get a 730 and a Memcal for a
>comparable Camaro/Firebird (More $$$)? My plan is to eventually put MAP on
>the other car also, but I know the calibration is probably too far off. One
>step at a time.
>Thanks for any input or correction,
>Jon Fedock
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 22:31:07 1999
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Subject: Re: any one played with MR2 superchargers?
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 22:34:35 -0500 (EST)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <Pine.OSF.4.05.9902032057430.23288-100000@bert.WPI.EDU> from "Robert Scott Winnicki" at Feb 3, 99 09:03:11 pm
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> 
> specifically, anyone ever taken one of these off the MR@ and used it
> somewhere else, like say a rotory.  From what I've read about them they
> aren't to big, and have a very nice blowoff valve/SC bypass system built
> in. Plus they have the electronic cultch built in the pully.  Any experts
> on these guys?  my idea is to try to use one to spool up the turbo on a
> RX7, try to give it a little more low end.  I have the SC it self (but
> none of the hoese and manifoilds from the MR2, plus I think my SC is in
> need of a rebuild.  (It was a gift)
> 
> any way... I'd like to talk to some one how knows them befor I go out and
> try to find a another one with all the hoeses still there.  (plus from
> what I've heard they are hard to find.)


try asking this on the mr2 list (thnk its at mr2.com)
let me know what you find out
HKS does make a pulley for these that increases boost
they probably do not flow enough air for a rotary
you would need a charger large enough to feed a 5-6l engine to get a rotary to
respond while maintaining a reasonable speed at the blower pulley


but used chargers to fit a Mustang or GM Fbody are relatively easy to find
used

Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 22:33:58 1999
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Subject: Re: fusible link questions
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 22:37:27 -0500 (EST)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <293ab3f.36b8fa19@aol.com> from "KD6JDJ@aol.com" at Feb 3, 99 08:38:33 pm
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> 
> The fusable link is intended to protect the wiring harness from frying -
> through out the vehicle. It is the weakest link in the wiring 'chain'. They
> normally have a high temperature insulation that also protects any adjacent
> wires from being burned.
> 
> It is not clear to me why you would need to put a fusible link in the wire
> that runs from the alternator + to the battery +. You sure dont want to
> "unload the alternator" while it is charging. And I asume that there are no
> other wires in series with that charging wire. 
> 
> I'd be glad to discuss this with you further , if needed.


somtimes the diode pack will short out and drain the battery or start a fire

Clive 

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Clarence Wood wrote:
Yes.  In fact, I found a reference in a GM manual which says a maximum
length of 9" or no protection's afforded.  Also, some confusion on my
part as to 4 wire gauge sizes or 2, basically it's written different
ways in different books, but the end result is the same.  10 ga wire
gets 14 ga link.  Last but not least, GM manuals give wiring sizes in
metric, fusible links are available in AWG.  Handy conversion chart is
not so handily buried in the beginning of the electrical section of
the GM service manual. 
Shannen

>   Just installed a 100 amp altenator and the guy at the shop who sold me the unit told me to run a line of fusible link (14 Ga) from the Bat. terminal on the alternator to the positive terminal of the batery.  The length of fusible link needed was about 4 ft. long.  Should I have ran a 3ft 9in wire of 10 Ga and then soldered in a 3 inch piece of 14 Ga fusible link?
> 
> Clarence
> 
> At 01:49 PM 2/3/99 -0600, you wrote:
> >GM shop manuals have a chart for fuse link applications and repair of blown
> >links. The manual indicates that the fuse link should be 4 wire sizes
> >smaller than the wire being protected. The only real problem with fuse links
> >is when the crimps become corroded and
> >heat up due to high resistance.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 22:40:50 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: "DIY_EFI" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Injector Pulse Withs
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 22:43:40 -0500
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This is a bunch of work, so here it is.  An actual table of injector pulse
widths from a MAP 350 SBC, 92 MY auto  
 MAP  10  20  30  35  40  45  50  55  60  65  70  75  80  85  90  95
RPM
500     .4   .7    .7   .7   2.8.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
1000   .5   .7 1.3  1.7 2.2 1.9>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
1500   0  1.5 1.8  2.4 1.5>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
2000   0   0   2.0  2.4  1.3>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
2500   0   0   2.7  2.8  2.7>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
3000   0   .7  2.1  3.1  3.4>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
3500   .4  .8  2.1  2.8  3.5 4.3 4.9 5.5 .1 6.7 7.2 8.6 9.3 9.3 10.3 10.9
4000   same as above
 
This is a PE type program, so there is an adder VE that is applied at
WOT.
YOUR TABLE WILL LOOK DIFERENT then this, this is but one
view at a spec coolant temp at a specif ait.  
For someone who has nothing to start with this is something to look at.
Cheers
Bruce       


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 23:17:49 1999
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Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 23:18:26 -0500
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--
> > From: wmcdonal@hutch.com.au [SMTP:wmcdonal@hutch.com.au]
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 7:46 AM
> > To:   'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'
> > Subject:      RE: Tim Drury article
> >
> > I have a copy of the article and can scan/ocr it in if anyone needs it.
> >
> > Wayne.
> >
Send me one too, please.

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On Wed, 3 Feb 1999 17:06:08 -0700 bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann) writes:
>>Greg Hermann wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> No way--a two element torque converter is a violation of Newton's
laws!!
>>>
>>> Regards, Greg
>>Then what do you call a 3 element fluid coupling? The torque 
>multiplier
>>in the early hydramatic did not make it a torque converter - it was
>>still a fluid coupling because it had tangential vanes. This was used
>>on  some Pontiac Hydros.
>>The curved vanes of the torque converter reroute the oil to the
backside
>>of the pump instead of the front side - thereby increasing torque. The
>>addition of the stator in a torque converter is much more effective
than
>>a multiplier in a fluid coupling for this reason.
>>Don't believe me - go get a good automotive mechanics text book -
>>preferably from the era when fluid couplings were not ancient history
>>and check it out.
>>
>>An old fossil who's actually seen, driven, and worked on them.
>
>And how many legs does a cow have if you call it's tail a leg??
>
>Correct answer is either one or five, depending on the level of
abstraction!!
>
>Very simply, there is no way to put more torque in to an output shaft
whan
>what comes into the input shaft unless some part of the "contraption"
puts
>a reaction torque into the case. PERIOD.
>
>"Every action must have an equal and opposite reaction."

"The sum of the moments around any point is zero" to quote a basic
statics book.

>
>Not even Einstein altered that one!!
>
>Regards, Greg
>
>
>

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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 22:51:05 -0500
Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff
Message-ID: <19990203.002122.15886.2.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
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Well... I guess if your goal is to use extra parts, it makes sense. 
Truthfully, though, I can't think of any advantage to doing it that way. 
I'm not into Rube Goldberg devices.

Ray


On Wed, 03 Feb 1999 06:48:47 -0600 Steve Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
writes:
>They are probably using a digital control loop ( read the voltage with
adc,
>set the current with dac ). Regulating heater wattage also. Just another
way
>of controlling this sensor. When you have lots of margin dollars in the
>product and a team working on it full time it would make sense .
>
>Steve
>
>Raymond C Drouillard wrote:
>
>> On Tue, 2 Feb 1999 16:37:48 +1100 "Ross Myers" 
><ponty@axis.jeack.com.au>
>> writes:
>> >
>> >
>> >>Hi all,
>> >>        I checked out the motec site (autronics also sell one) but
these
>> >>are too expensive for me .That is why I was hoping one could be
built (even
>> >>as a kit) at a fraction of the cost.Motecs unit is just right with
the
>> >>screen and sensor.
>> >>Some of us race people are on tight budgets!
>> >>PAUL
>> >
>> >
>> >I know what you are saying Paul, but my point was if they felt the
need for
>> >a 32bit micro to run the thing something must be tricky.
>> >
>> >Regards
>> >
>> >Ross Myers
>>
>> Either that, or they want you to believe that it's tricky and pay the
>> $$$$.  Even if there is a pressure and thermal sensor, it wouldn't
take
>> much processing power to calculate a true lambda reading from all of
>> that.  Even if they are doing data logging...
>>
>> Ray
>>
>> ___________________________________________________________________
>> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
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>
>
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 23:27:13 1999
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Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 23:27:52 -0500
From: "Clarence L.Snyder" <clare.snyder.on.ca@ibm.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: TC's and manual trans (was: Re: Smooth strategy)
References: <v01510109b2de3200807f@[204.132.128.15]>
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Greg Hermann wrote:
> Very simply, there is no way to put more torque in to an output shaft whan
> what comes into the input shaft unless some part of the "contraption" puts
> a reaction torque into the case. PERIOD.
> 
> "Every action must have an equal and opposite reaction."
> 
> Not even Einstein altered that one!!
> 
> Regards, Greg

To which I reply:
Not everything is as it would seem it should be to others.
Just becauce YOU choose to call a cow a horse just because it can pull a
cart does not make it so - if the rest of the world calls it an ox.
The accepted definition is as I relayed it. I didn't make it up. I
didn't write the dictionary. I didn't write the text. Tell Wm Crouse to
his face that he and his team of experts are wrong - don't tell me.

That said, enough is enough so now let's get back to what this group is
(supposedly) all about and start squirting gas instead of passing it.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 23:28:05 1999
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Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 23:28:43 -0500
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: fusible link questions
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James Weiler wrote:
> 
> Hmmm, I just soldered in a few last night and had no problems.  It
> soldered like regular wire does.  Have I missed something here?
> 
> jw
> 
> On Wed, 3 Feb 1999, Clarence L.Snyder wrote:
> 
> > Most definitely!!! Actually, 10 gauge is light enough for a 100 amp
> > alternator. Usually the fusible link is nasty to solder too - it is
> > usually crimped.
> >
Some solder relatively well - some are almost unsolderable.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  3 23:42:10 1999
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Subject: Re: Injector Pulse Withs
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> This is a bunch of work, so here it is.  An actual table of injector pulse
> widths from a MAP 350 SBC, 92 MY auto
>  MAP  10  20  30  35  40  45  50  55  60  65  70  75  80  85  90  95
> RPM
> 500     .4   .7    .7   .7   2.8.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> 1000   .5   .7 1.3  1.7 2.2 1.9>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> 1500   0  1.5 1.8  2.4 1.5>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> 2000   0   0   2.0  2.4  1.3>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> 2500   0   0   2.7  2.8  2.7>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> 3000   0   .7  2.1  3.1  3.4>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> 3500   .4  .8  2.1  2.8  3.5 4.3 4.9 5.5 .1 6.7 7.2 8.6 9.3 9.3 10.3 10.9
> 4000   same as above
> 
>
Thanks Bruce!
The RPM and MS are clear - exactly what units were used for MAP?

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  4 00:43:27 1999
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Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 16:43:22 +1100 (EST)
From: Steve Sassine <n9480320@garbo.nepean.uws.EDU.AU>
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: fusible link questions
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On Wed, 3 Feb 1999, Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020 wrote:

> > 
> > The fusable link is intended to protect the wiring harness from frying -
> > through out the vehicle. It is the weakest link in the wiring 'chain'. They
> > normally have a high temperature insulation that also protects any adjacent
> > wires from being burned.
> > 
> > It is not clear to me why you would need to put a fusible link in the wire
> > that runs from the alternator + to the battery +. You sure dont want to
> > "unload the alternator" while it is charging. And I asume that there are no
> > other wires in series with that charging wire. 
> > 
> >
