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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 06:10:01 -0500
From: John S Gwynne <jsg@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 07:26:03 1999
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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 06:25:52 -0600
From: DC Smith <dcsmith@bytes.net>
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Finally got a couple of days off..
 With my work schedule, and maintaining/building the fleet of vehicles I
have in my driveway, (yes, they all run) :) I haven't had much time for
email lately. Soooo.. yesterday I FINALLY got a chance to update my web
page a little. I hadn't made any changes since the fall of 1997, and it
was severely outdated, as far as my car goes. The main page is pretty
much the same, but http://www.tetranet.net/users/morepoweral/mycar.htm
now has some pretty fair pictures of my turbo V-6 Buick motor. I took
the pictures last july while I was converting the car to the 86/7 Turbo
Regal setup. The parts, with the exception of the 3" downpipe and 36 lb
injectors, are all stock GM pieces. (this page is not for the modem
impaired) <smile>
 I have no dbouts this car would run high 11's in this cool air, since
it ran 12 teens in the 1/4 mile in 80 degree weather. The race track
opens here april 4th.. :) Keep in mind, I pieced this car together, one
bolt at a time.

 I also have a (rather large) picture someone sent me of the MAF
translator used to convert the MAF signal from a Delco LT-1 MAF to work
on the 7148 ECM in the 86/7 GN's and T's. This is at: 

http://www.tetranet.net/users/morepoweral/maftrans.htm

Check it out! (this page isn't linked anywhere)

 BTW, with my email address change, I keep getting 2 of all the list
posts. Could someone stop email from going to dcsmith@gnttype.org It's
been a few weeks since I unsubscribed that address.

 Thanks!

PS. If anything doesn't work, let me know, please.
 
***********************************************************************
Dan Smith      84 Regal   12.13@112     GSCA# 1459
St.Charles, Missouri 
mailto:dcsmith@bytes.net               
mailto:dcsmith@gnttype.org
mailto:morepoweral@bytes.net
mailto:morepoweral@gnttype.org
mailto:morepoweral@tetranet.net
mailto:smithd@fsi023.flightsafety.com
http://www.tetranet.net/users/morepoweral
***********************************************************************

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 08:10:34 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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I someone would send me a copy of this page I'd appreciate it.
I can't get there from here
Thanks
Bruce

> I also have a (rather large) picture someone sent me of the MAF
>translator used to convert the MAF signal from a Delco LT-1 MAF to work
>on the 7148 ECM in the 86/7 GN's and T's. This is at: 
>http://www.tetranet.net/users/morepoweral/maftrans.htm



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 08:54:11 1999
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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 14:54:12 +0100
From: Marcel <marcelb@casema.net>
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Clarence L.Snyder wrote:

> Partly right - partly wrong. It will work as you say untill the airflow
> maxes out the AFM - then it gets non-linear real fast.

But, when I have this offset adjustment tool, I can adapt
ANY natural log AFM to work well, including ones that flow enough!

Do different capacity AFM's max out at different voltages or do they
add a scaling factor to this "ln flow" formula to fit within the 0-5V
range?

I'd have to adjust that scaling factor too, if I want to adapt a
different AFM. That might make things a bit more complicated.

Anyone know at what hp level stock Toyota 4A-GE (redhat) AFM's
max out? I know the injectors will at about 140-150hp, but
when does the AFM?

Of course if I take care of all this and publish the details
with schematic, we'd have a nice universal mod package for
ppl who want to retain most factory stuff (like me) and still
get better mixture spread than with spring tension adjustments.

thanks,

Marcel

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 09:12:08 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Barry Tisdale <btisdale@cybersol.com>
Subject: Re: Newbie ALDL question
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Bill -

Managed to get the ALDL interface working quite well - are you still interested in this project?  I'm using a QuickBasic program to read the data - had no luck w/ GCAR.  BTW, in your last letter, you referenced using "4 diodes" in the MAX232 circuit - should those be transistors (2N3904)?  I used a MAX233 chip - no external caps; '04 inverter not needed.

Get *lots* of data out, now just have to correlate it w/ what my scan tool reads.

Any collaboration gladly accepted!

Barry

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 09:18:05 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Subject: ALDL project
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Anyone still currently working on the ALDL / PC project, or interested in it?  

Got the interface put together, works great, reading the ALDL data w/ QuickBasic program - just have to work out which numbers mean what.  I'm reading a '91 GM ECU (Syclone).  Anyone know what data is what?  I was thinking of pots or 555s on the various sensors, but maybe someone already has the answers.

Thanks - Barry





From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 09:44:37 1999
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> Anyone still currently working on the ALDL / PC project, or interested in it?

I haven't worked on it in a while, it went to the way side
as I'm doing up a Mopar block now, got sucked into a jeep
project, and about 400 other things.  I'm interested in it
without a doubt.

Can you send me a small sample of the data?  I'd like to
take a look if you don't mind...

-- 
Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

http://www.xephic.dynip.com
1993 Superchaged Lincoln Continental
1989 500cid Turbocharged HWMMV
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab (soon to be twin turbo 440)
2000 Buick GTP (twin turbo V6)

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 09:55:17 1999
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 09:54:53 -0500
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: EFI for Propane
In-Reply-To: <19990226.021106.15334.5.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
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On Fri, 26 Feb 1999, Raymond C Drouillard wrote:

> Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 01:57:27 -0500
> From: Raymond C Drouillard <cosmic.ray@juno.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: EFI for Propane
> 
> 
> >....What about cooling the lpg to a point where its liquid, then we
> >could use regular efi injectors, we dont have to create a box that must
> >regulate injection time for the variable pressure that temperature is
> doing
> >
> >for lpg fuel pressure.Can a Lucas disc type injector cope with the
> >pressure?
> >What about two injectors in series?One ontop of the other?
> >I have been thinking of just pumping twostroke oil into the lpg tank 
> >to get a mix.
> >Espen Hilde   
> 
> I was thinking of feeding the liquid into the injecter at perhaps 330
> PSI, and using something similar to a diesel injecter on the other end
> that opens at 300 PSI.  That way the injecter would see a 30 PSI

it may be more then 300psi require to keep the propane liquid, and a pump 
would be needed to get the liquid to the warm end of the fuel system  

> difference in pressures, and be dealing with a warm liquid.  The standard
> injecter would be used as a valve, and the propane would vaporize once it
> leaves the injecter (regulater or whatever you want to call it).
> 
> I would rather have an injecter that can handle the 300 PSI without such
> a jerry rig, though.

on the way home I was thinking about this and a major problem would be 
vapour lock the vapour pressure of gas is less then propane


just my $0.02 

> Ray
> 
> ___________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
> 

Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 10:18:17 1999
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From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Newbie ALDL question
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On Mon, 1 Mar 1999, Barry Tisdale wrote:

> Bill -
> 
> Managed to get the ALDL interface working quite well - are you still interested in this project?  I'm using a QuickBasic program to read the data - had no luck w/ GCAR.  BTW, in your last letter, you referenced using "4 diodes" in the MAX232 circuit - should those be transistors (2N3904)?  I used a MAX233 chip - no external caps; '04 inverter not needed.
> 
> Get *lots* of data out, now just have to correlate it w/ what my scan tool reads.
> 
> Any collaboration gladly accepted!
> 
> Barry
> 
I don't know about the syclone, but something useful, diacom appears
to store the data stream exactly as it comes of the interface in their
data files.    I have a ALDL spec for my car, and using that spec I
was able to get meaningful data out of the diacom data file.   Also,
there will be two bytes at the front of each data stream, that will be
the prom id, it will be repeated at the beginning of each set of data,
then there are typically several bytes of data that are error flags
(trouble codes, usually all zeros if everything is good).

There should be a spec for the syclone, someone did send me a spec for
my car (93 Z28), and it does seem to be correct, because I have been
able to decode meaningful data from the diacom data files (things that
weren't displayed, or not displayed accurate enough).

					Roger


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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 10:19:20 -0500
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Speed Sensor
In-Reply-To: <Pine.OSF.3.91.990301103647.16322A-100000@turing.une.edu.au>
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On Mon, 1 Mar 1999, Benjamin Marsh wrote:

> Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 10:41:44 +1100 (EST)
> From: Benjamin Marsh <bmarsh@turing.une.edu.au>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Speed Sensor
> 
> 
> The L-jet in my Soob is giving a fault code 33 which corresponds to
> a speed sensor in the workshop manual - I have pulled the dash out to
> try and find it. The closest thing I can find is a 3" long plastic
> strip with metal tabs at each end and a thing in the middle that kinda
> looks like a high voltage light bulb. Is this the speed sensor? ii so 

soobies tended to have the sensors in the speedo head but what you describe
sounds like the reed switch sensor they used


> will just replacing it fix the problem or is the speed sensor somewhere
> else that I haven't looked.
> 
> When driving at moderate load I can feel the car slightly shudder and
> then the ECS light comes on - is the speed sensor at fault or is it 
> a sort of limp home mode thing on the comp? The car feels to go a lot
> better when the ECS light is off rather than on...

is the car spfi ( throttle body ) if it is check the reluctor in the 
distributer, they had problems there otherwise I'd look at the afm

> 
> Car is a 1987 Leone RX Turbo

dooh then it's mpfi.

> Ben
> 

Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 10:58:58 1999
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"Jeffrey T. Birt" wrote:
> 
>     Yeah I've heard of people using it to replace freon.  I've also heard of AC
> systems BLOWING UP because of it.  Try it at your own risk.  Just my two-cents.

We've all heard of cars blowing up because of it.  Ever seen one? 
Besides the movies, I mean?  What do you suppose was used before freon
was invented?  Hydrocarbons and ammonia.  Does it bother you that you
carry 100 pounds of gasoline with you, complete with an electric pump
that can supply gallons per minute to an engine fire?  Just because the
EPA says it's bad, doesn't mean that it's bad.

--steve


-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 11:06:47 1999
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 09:11:01 -0700 (MST)
From: Terrill Yuhas <tyuhas@mail.arl.arizona.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: GM IAC
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First off, I want to thank all those who helped me with suggestions on my
rough idle/idle hunting problem with a GM 3.1L V6.  Turns out the IAC was
pretty varnished up.  After a good bead blasting :-) , all was assembled
and things are working much better.  Of course there was a tense moment
(pucker factor: 7), when while cleaning out the throttle body, I shot the
cleaner straw into the intake.  What's the minimum requirements for this
cone-shaped-hat club again?

Anyhow, my question is that the manuals I have (Haynes and the bigger
Chilton's model specific guide) mention an O-ring for the IAC.  I didn't
find any O-ring or gasket of any sort.  It was just plastic on aluminum.
Should this be the case?  I don't have the full story on how the IAC
functions but maybe this could explain the degradation at idle when the
engine is hot with the different material expansion rates.  Dunno...just
thinking out loud so sorry if that sounds really dumb.

Thanks!

Terrill


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 11:09:10 1999
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: EFI for Propane
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>On Fri, 26 Feb 1999, Raymond C Drouillard wrote:
>
>> Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 01:57:27 -0500
>> From: Raymond C Drouillard <cosmic.ray@juno.com>
>> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>> Subject: Re: EFI for Propane
>>
>>
>> >....What about cooling the lpg to a point where its liquid, then we
>> >could use regular efi injectors, we dont have to create a box that must
>> >regulate injection time for the variable pressure that temperature is
>> doing
>> >
>> >for lpg fuel pressure.Can a Lucas disc type injector cope with the
>> >pressure?
>> >What about two injectors in series?One ontop of the other?
>> >I have been thinking of just pumping twostroke oil into the lpg tank
>> >to get a mix.
>> >Espen Hilde
>>
>> I was thinking of feeding the liquid into the injecter at perhaps 330
>> PSI, and using something similar to a diesel injecter on the other end
>> that opens at 300 PSI.  That way the injecter would see a 30 PSI
>
>it may be more then 300psi require to keep the propane liquid, and a pump
>would be needed to get the liquid to the warm end of the fuel system
>
>> difference in pressures, and be dealing with a warm liquid.  The standard
>> injecter would be used as a valve, and the propane would vaporize once it
>> leaves the injecter (regulater or whatever you want to call it).

Trouble is, it will begin to vaporize (flash) on its way through the injector.

Greg
>>
>> I would rather have an injecter that can handle the 300 PSI without such
>> a jerry rig, though.
>
>on the way home I was thinking about this and a major problem would be
>vapour lock the vapour pressure of gas is less then propane
>
>
>just my $0.02
>
>> Ray
>>
>> ___________________________________________________________________
>> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>>
>
>Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
>QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
>(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews
>(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 11:14:42 1999
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 09:18:56 -0700 (MST)
From: Terrill Yuhas <tyuhas@mail.arl.arizona.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: ALDL project
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I'm interested in it.  This is the interface at
http://www.mindspring.com/~amattei/aldl.htm , right?

Terrill

On Mon, 1 Mar 1999, Barry Tisdale wrote:

> Anyone still currently working on the ALDL / PC project, or interested in it?  
> 
> Got the interface put together, works great, reading the ALDL data w/ QuickBasic program - just have to work out which numbers mean what.  I'm reading a '91 GM ECU (Syclone).  Anyone know what data is what?  I was thinking of pots or 555s on the various sensors, but maybe someone already has the answers.
> 
> Thanks - Barry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 11:17:46 1999
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Subject: Re: ALDL project
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Hey, Fredrick, hello again -

I'll have to xfer the data from my other computer - just have screen shots right now, will write the 'data save' maybe tonight.  Basically, lots of numbers - raw data; w/o the scaling factors applied, pretty meaningless.

Using Basic routines rather than assembly, seems fast enough.  Have to tweak the hardware a bit to do it this way, though.

TTYL - Barry

At 02:39 PM 3/1/99 +0000, you wrote:
>> Anyone still currently working on the ALDL / PC project, or interested in it?
>
>I haven't worked on it in a while, it went to the way side
>as I'm doing up a Mopar block now, got sucked into a jeep
>project, and about 400 other things.  I'm interested in it
>without a doubt.
>
>Can you send me a small sample of the data?  I'd like to
>take a look if you don't mind...
>
>-- 
>Frederic Breitwieser
>Bridgeport, CT 06606


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Subject: Re: Speed Sensor 
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<<The L-jet in my Soob is giving a fault code 33 which corresponds to
a speed sensor in the workshop manual - I have pulled the dash out to
try and find it. The closest thing I can find is a 3" long plastic
strip with metal tabs at each end and a thing in the middle that kinda
looks like a high voltage light bulb. Is this the speed sensor? ii so
will just replacing it fix the problem or is the speed sensor somewhere
else that I haven't looked.>>

There are three different types of "speed sensors" on most Euro cars. One is the
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), which is usually mounted to the tranny on FWD cars
(and sends pulsed signals to the ECU). This one is used for speedo readings, and
eliminates the need for a speedo cable. I doubt you car uses this!

The second type is the individual wheel speed sensor used on ABS equipped
vehicles. composed of a gapped wheel (or race) and a magnetic pick up. Every
wheel has this combo, if 4 channel ABS is present. Probably not applicable to
your car...

The third type often used is the engine speed sensor. This measures the engine
rpm (and can determine the angular timing of the crank, or position). Most are
composed of a 60 toothed wheel bolted to the crank, and a magnetic pick up
(sometimes an optical one is used). E30 model BMWs had a factory toothed crank
wheel/crank pulley that was outside the block. Late model VWs have an internal
toothed wheel bolted to the crank, inside of the block (flywheel end). VWs
happen to read TDC off of the trailing edge of the 13th tooth, other cars are
similar. This rpm signal goes to the ECU, get's processed...then the ECU sends a
different signal to the instrument cluster (Tachometer).

The engine speed sensor will be in the engine bay. If it's an internal crank
wheel, the sensor will be mounted into the block and will look like a knock
sensor...but will be mounted much lower in the block. If you have an external
crank wheel, it will be plainly visible off to the side of the crank pulley.

However, the L-Jetronic system might not have what I'm talking about. I'd have
to thumb through my Bosch FI book to figure that out. It's been awhile since I
owned one of those cars. =)

<<Car is a 1987 Leone RX Turbo>>

He he. Tell me more about this "Leone" car. Good name, I must say.

Jason
'93 SLC



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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 09:52:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Propane EFI
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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-> Yeah I've heard of people using it to replace freon.  I've also heard
-> of AC systems BLOWING UP because of it.  Try it at your own risk.
-> Just my two-cents.

 Ah, yes.  MACS propaganda, on the level of spontaneous human
combustion.

==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?
=================================== http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm
                                                         

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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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>What's the minimum requirements for this
>cone-shaped-hat club again?

If you repeat something silly 4-5 times before ya remember it, damage
something, or if you let the smoke out of three devices all at once that is
an
instant winner.
>
>Anyhow, my question is that the manuals I have (Haynes and the bigger
>Chilton's model specific guide) mention an O-ring for the IAC.  I didn't
>find any O-ring or gasket of any sort.  It was just plastic on aluminum.
>Should this be the case?

Some use gaskets, If there is one I use it, if not I don't go outta my way
to replace
it.
  The IAC is a stepper motor, and the ecm counts pulses sent to it for
up/down idle.  So if it get gummy and slows down in reaction to these pulses
the amount of air bypassed is wrong.
Bruce

  I don't have the full story on how the IAC
>functions but maybe this could explain the degradation at idle when the
>engine is hot with the different material expansion rates.  Dunno...just
>thinking out loud so sorry if that sounds really dumb.
>Thanks!
>Terrill



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 13:22:59 1999
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 13:22:57 -0500
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Speed Sensor 
In-Reply-To: <88256727.005D999A.00@GWSMTPSCLA02.mis.amat.com>
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On Mon, 1 Mar 1999 Jason_Leone@amat.com wrote:

> Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 09:01:11 -0800
> From: Jason_Leone@amat.com
> To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Cc: Benjamin Marsh <bmarsh@turing.une.edu.au>
> Subject: Re: Speed Sensor 
> 
> <<The L-jet in my Soob is giving a fault code 33 which corresponds to
> a speed sensor in the workshop manual - I have pulled the dash out to
> try and find it. The closest thing I can find is a 3" long plastic
> strip with metal tabs at each end and a thing in the middle that kinda
> looks like a high voltage light bulb. Is this the speed sensor? ii so
> will just replacing it fix the problem or is the speed sensor somewhere
> else that I haven't looked.>>
> 
> There are three different types of "speed sensors" on most Euro cars. One is the
> Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), which is usually mounted to the tranny on FWD cars
> (and sends pulsed signals to the ECU). This one is used for speedo readings, and
> eliminates the need for a speedo cable. I doubt you car uses this!

on subarus the vss is on the back of the speedometer ( even on the gl-10 
digital dash)

> 
> The second type is the individual wheel speed sensor used on ABS equipped
> vehicles. composed of a gapped wheel (or race) and a magnetic pick up. Every
> wheel has this combo, if 4 channel ABS is present. Probably not applicable to
> your car...

not on 87 sub's


> The third type often used is the engine speed sensor. This measures the engine
> rpm (and can determine the angular timing of the crank, or position). Most are
> composed of a 60 toothed wheel bolted to the crank, and a magnetic pick up
> (sometimes an optical one is used). E30 model BMWs had a factory toothed crank
> wheel/crank pulley that was outside the block. Late model VWs have an internal
> toothed wheel bolted to the crank, inside of the block (flywheel end). VWs
> happen to read TDC off of the trailing edge of the 13th tooth, other cars are
> similar. This rpm signal goes to the ECU, get's processed...then the ECU sends a
> different signal to the instrument cluster (Tachometer).

this sensor is in the distributor, try removing the dist cap and check 
the radial play on the dist. shaft. I think the dist on the 87 4x4 and turbos
was an optical interrupter if it is clean it out w/ brake cleaner and 
compressed air.

> 
> The engine speed sensor will be in the engine bay. If it's an internal crank
> wheel, the sensor will be mounted into the block and will look like a knock
> sensor...but will be mounted much lower in the block. If you have an external
> crank wheel, it will be plainly visible off to the side of the crank pulley.

it's in the dist

> 
> However, the L-Jetronic system might not have what I'm talking about. I'd have
> to thumb through my Bosch FI book to figure that out. It's been awhile since I
> owned one of those cars. =)
> 

from 84 to 90 I was a mechanic at a Subaru, Saab, bmw dealership in Kingston
( di you know bmw stands for broken motor works)

> <<Car is a 1987 Leone RX Turbo>>

the rx's were fun I wish I had one 8-(

> 
> He he. Tell me more about this "Leone" car. Good name, I must say.
> 

in Canada this was just called a subaru ( it was around this time the 
second model line was brought into canada ((the justy))) 

> Jason
> '93 SLC
> 
> 
> 

Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 13:33:17 1999
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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 13:33:12 -0500
From: Bryan Moody <bmoody@bellsouth.net>
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References: <199903011000.FAA14871@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu> <36DA9C04.821E7E46@casema.net>
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I like your idea.

Let me know how it works.



Marcel wrote:
> 
> Clarence L.Snyder wrote:
> 
> > Partly right - partly wrong. It will work as you say untill the airflow
> > maxes out the AFM - then it gets non-linear real fast.
> 
> But, when I have this offset adjustment tool, I can adapt
> ANY natural log AFM to work well, including ones that flow enough!
> 
> Do different capacity AFM's max out at different voltages or do they
> add a scaling factor to this "ln flow" formula to fit within the 0-5V
> range?
> 
> I'd have to adjust that scaling factor too, if I want to adapt a
> different AFM. That might make things a bit more complicated.
> 
> Anyone know at what hp level stock Toyota 4A-GE (redhat) AFM's
> max out? I know the injectors will at about 140-150hp, but
> when does the AFM?
> 
> Of course if I take care of all this and publish the details
> with schematic, we'd have a nice universal mod package for
> ppl who want to retain most factory stuff (like me) and still
> get better mixture spread than with spring tension adjustments.
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Marcel

-- 
Bryan Moody
Greensboro, NC
86 Concours
COG Southeast Area Director http://www.concours.org/se

IBA: BBG, CCC Gold

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 14:41:01 1999
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Subject: Re: Speed Sensor
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What you have found is likely a magnetic reed switch, which is often
used as a speed sensor, built more or less into the speedo. Put an
ohmmeter on it and turn the speedo cable, the ohmeter should go back and
forth between 0 ohms and infinity.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 15:49:02 1999
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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 12:49:38 -0800
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Subject: Re: 730 in a buick...
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David A. Cooley wrote:
> Looking to find any info on a 730 ECM in a 1987 Buick Somerset Regal, 2.5L
> 4cyl...

That's a strange combination.  The Somerset Regal is just a Grand Am (N
body), right?  If so, it should probably have a '748 with the 2.5.  The
'730 would imply a 2.8, or perhaps a 2.0.

> Any one have table locations etc?  My brother just bought one and wants me
> to help him pump it up a bit.

We need more information - a P4 ECM can have many different table
arrangements.  What is the 8th byte of the EPROM?

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 19:02:02 1999
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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 19:01:39 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Padgett 0sirius <padgett@gdi.net>
Subject: Re: GM IAC
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>Anyhow, my question is that the manuals I have (Haynes and the bigger
>Chilton's model specific guide) mention an O-ring for the IAC.  I didn't
>find any O-ring or gasket of any sort.  It was just plastic on aluminum.

Well is an air seal that does not get particularly hot so almost anything
will work. Once used a gasket made from a paper bag for a seal & it worked
fine. Will need to reset after installation.
      	A. Padgett Peterson, P.E. Cybernetic Psychophysicist
 Anti-Virus, Cryptographics, & Antique Radio Researcher
http://www.freivald.org/~padgett/index.html
 mailto:padgett@gdi.net     PGP 5.5 Key on request


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 19:46:43 1999
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Is anyone willing to email me a copy of that Qbasic program for 8192 aldl I
am about to start writing qbasic code to do the exact thing myself so i
though maybe someone is willing to share there eye bleeding hours of
programming with me for free??????


At 09:18 AM 1/3/99 -0600, you wrote:
>
>
>On Mon, 1 Mar 1999, Barry Tisdale wrote:
>
>> Bill -
>> 
>> Managed to get the ALDL interface working quite well - are you still
interested in this project?  I'm using a QuickBasic program to read the
data - had no luck w/ GCAR.  BTW, in your last letter, you referenced using
"4 diodes" in the MAX232 circuit - should those be transistors (2N3904)?  I
used a MAX233 chip - no external caps; '04 inverter not needed.
>> 
>> Get *lots* of data out, now just have to correlate it w/ what my scan
tool reads.
>> 
>> Any collaboration gladly accepted!
>> 
>> Barry
>> 
>I don't know about the syclone, but something useful, diacom appears
>to store the data stream exactly as it comes of the interface in their
>data files.    I have a ALDL spec for my car, and using that spec I
>was able to get meaningful data out of the diacom data file.   Also,
>there will be two bytes at the front of each data stream, that will be
>the prom id, it will be repeated at the beginning of each set of data,
>then there are typically several bytes of data that are error flags
>(trouble codes, usually all zeros if everything is good).
>
>There should be a spec for the syclone, someone did send me a spec for
>my car (93 Z28), and it does seem to be correct, because I have been
>able to decode meaningful data from the diacom data files (things that
>weren't displayed, or not displayed accurate enough).
>
>					Roger
> 
Best Regards,

STUART BUNNING
SALES ENGINEER
KENELEC SCIENTIFIC PTY LTD

23-25 REDLAND DRIVE
MITCHAM VICTORIA 3132
AUSTRALIA

PHONE:  61 3 9873 1022
FAX:    61 3 9873 0200
EMAIL:  stuart@kenelec.com.au
WEB:    http://www.kenelec.com.au/

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 20:00:59 1999
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Subject: Re: 730 in a buick...
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-----Original Message-----
From: Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
To: Diy_efi <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, March 01, 1999 4:03 PM
Subject: Re: 730 in a buick...

I thought that wasn't a valid way to ID proms.
Bruce


>> Looking to find any info on a 730 ECM in a 1987 Buick Somerset Regal,
2.5L
>> 4cyl...
>That's a strange combination.  The Somerset Regal is just a Grand Am (N
>body), right?  If so, it should probably have a '748 with the 2.5.  The
>'730 would imply a 2.8, or perhaps a 2.0.
>> Any one have table locations etc?  My brother just bought one and wants
me
>> to help him pump it up a bit.
>We need more information - a P4 ECM can have many different table
>arrangements.  What is the 8th byte of the EPROM?



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 20:50:37 1999
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From: "Mark Grady" <grady@bnin.net>
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 20:49:24 -0500
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Hope this question doesn't reveal my ignorance too much....

I have a '96 Chevy Lumina APV at work. It doesn't have the RF key fob remote
entry system. The owner's manual isn't with this van, never was.

The doors lock every single stinkin' time you shift out of park. You have to
manually unlock them to get out. This is rather annoying.

I have a '96 Pontiac version that does have remote entry, you can change the
mode of the Fort Knox lock option by holding the lock switch for 10 seconds,
then pressing the unlock button on the key fob. How and what you press
locks/unlocks the driver's door or none at all, etc. Does anyone know how to
perform this same re-programming trick if you don't have the remote?

Some other secret code? Turn signal on left, rear defroster on, right power
mirror moving left, seat reclining... something like that?

Mark

mailto:mgrady@bnin.net



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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Barry Tisdale <btisdale@cybersol.com>
Subject: ALDL, again
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Still working on the ALDL / PC thing.  I've gotten *several* copies of the GM paper on the diagnostic link; all are probably from the same source, way back when, as they all contain the same typos and inaccuracies.

Has anyone actually 'decoded' the actual data, i.e., converted the raw data into meaningful information?  Some of the calcs given in the GM paper are just plain wrong.  Lots of data acronyms have no references elsewhere in the paper; I can only guess @ what's intended.  Some are obvious, many are cryptic.

Anybody gone through this?  I'd like to help / collaborate w/ anyone on this; hardware to get the data from ALDL to COM port is easy, works well.  Software to capture & log the data doesn't require a genius (after all, I did it in QuickBasic).  Trouble is, "what do it all mean..."?

Any help *very* gladly accepted - thanks - Barry

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 22:56:48 1999
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From: "Ward Spoonemore" <spoonie@deltanet.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: ALDL project
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 19:57:17 -0800
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If you list the part number and Chip broadcast code perhaps we can find
something.
Ward

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
[mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Barry
Tisdale
Sent: Monday, March 01, 1999 6:17 AM
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: ALDL project


Anyone still currently working on the ALDL / PC project, or interested in
it?

Got the interface put together, works great, reading the ALDL data w/
QuickBasic program - just have to work out which numbers mean what.  I'm
reading a '91 GM ECU (Syclone).  Anyone know what data is what?  I was
thinking of pots or 555s on the various sensors, but maybe someone already
has the answers.

Thanks - Barry





From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 23:41:33 1999
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From: "Ward Spoonemore" <spoonie@deltanet.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: ALDL, again
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 20:42:01 -0800
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Most likely you are unaware that GM has around a hundred different diag data
standards, There are four different data xmission standards, including OBD
II. perhaps is you stated your needs ..... ECM P/N, and or broadcast code
...
Ward

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
[mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Barry
Tisdale
Sent: Monday, March 01, 1999 7:23 PM
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: ALDL, again


Still working on the ALDL / PC thing.  I've gotten *several* copies of the
GM paper on the diagnostic link; all are probably from the same source, way
back when, as they all contain the same typos and inaccuracies.

Has anyone actually 'decoded' the actual data, i.e., converted the raw data
into meaningful information?  Some of the calcs given in the GM paper are
just plain wrong.  Lots of data acronyms have no references elsewhere in the
paper; I can only guess @ what's intended.  Some are obvious, many are
cryptic.

Anybody gone through this?  I'd like to help / collaborate w/ anyone on
this; hardware to get the data from ALDL to COM port is easy, works well.
Software to capture & log the data doesn't require a genius (after all, I
did it in QuickBasic).  Trouble is, "what do it all mean..."?

Any help *very* gladly accepted - thanks - Barry


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 23:50:24 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 23:15:41 -0500
Subject: Re: EFI for Propane
Message-ID: <19990301.004934.13318.2.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
References: <01BE6254.94826120@d176-cg101h2-clgr-pdi.attcanada.net> <19990226.201942.4558.0.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
	<36D8BD5A.3FF7@ibm.net>
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>You don't need a pump if you take propane off the bottom of the tank -
>called liquid withdrawal. This is standard for automotive propane
>systems. It IS liquid when it hits the "evaporator" - you know, that
>water heated thingamagig used on "carbed" propane units. The pressure
>varies with tank(vapour) temperature - not with fuel level, so it would

The reason for increasing the pressure is that it is warmer under the
hood than at the tank.  The pressure in the tank would be insufficient to
keep the propane in a liquid state in the plumbing under the hood.  Even
a little bubbling would cause less fuel to be injected than is intended
by the ECU.


>not be hard to calibrate an EFI to use liquid propane. The problem I see
>is getting an injector to do the deed. Mabee try the electronic
>controlled injectors from something like a Ford Powerstroke or
>electronically managed Cummins or Mack. Not sure how they work, or if
>they require lubrication. Size the injector to flow 15% more fuel than
>you would use for gasoline to start because energy density of propane is
>about that much lower (If I remember correctly - my propane days go back
>a little while)
>The big problem, at least here in Ontario, would be getting the bugger
>certified so you would be allowed to re-fuel it. Lots of little things
>you would not think of, I'm sure.

Very good point!  Even here in Michigan, it would be a good idea to get
the documentation on the standards.  It makes good sense to build the
system to safety standards that were developed from exerience.  Some
experience is very costly...

Ray



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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  1 23:50:25 1999
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 00:29:32 -0500
Subject: Re: EFI for Propane
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>>> I was thinking of feeding the liquid into the injecter at perhaps 330
>>> PSI, and using something similar to a diesel injecter on the other
end
>>> that opens at 300 PSI.  That way the injecter would see a 30 PSI
>>
>>it may be more then 300psi require to keep the propane liquid, and a
pump
>>would be needed to get the liquid to the warm end of the fuel system
>>
>>> difference in pressures, and be dealing with a warm liquid.  The
standard
>>> injecter would be used as a valve, and the propane would vaporize
once it
>>> leaves the injecter (regulater or whatever you want to call it).
>
>Trouble is, it will begin to vaporize (flash) on its way through the 
>injector.
>
>Greg

The idea of the above scheme is to keep it in a liquid state on BOTH
sides of the injecter.  The injecter would be used as a valve.  The
liquid propane would be fed into the injecter at 330 (or whatever) PSI,
and exit at 300 (or whatever), which would result in a 30 PSI pressure
drop.

The LIQUID propane would then be piped to something that is similar to a
diesel injecter.  It would esentially be a pressure relief valve (like
that thingie on a pressure cooker) that would let enough liquid propane
out to keep the pressure at 300 PSI.  When the injecter is shut off, the
propane remains in the line at 300 PSI.  When the engine is started
again, propane is fed to the EFI injecter at 330 PSI, and the injecter
meters it.  It is then vended to the inside of the manifold by the relief
valve.

The relief valve would have to stand up to the vaporizing propane, but
the injecter would only see warm liquid at a 30 PSI pressure difference. 
What needs to be found is an injecter that is sturdy enough to withstand
330 PSI without bursting.

Ray

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 07:24:20 1999
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From: "Guenther,Max" <Mguenther@ASCO.COM>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: ALDL, again
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 07:17:54 -0500
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How do you get copies of GM's papers?  Are they on the web anywhere?
Thanks,
Max
>----------
>From: 	Barry Tisdale[SMTP:btisdale@cybersol.com]
>Reply To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Sent: 	Monday, March 01, 1999 10:23 PM
>To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject: 	ALDL, again
>
>Still working on the ALDL / PC thing.  I've gotten *several* copies of the GM
>paper on the diagnostic link; all are probably from the same source, way back
>when, as they all contain the same typos and inaccuracies.
>
>Has anyone actually 'decoded' the actual data, i.e., converted the raw data
>into meaningful information?  Some of the calcs given in the GM paper are
>just plain wrong.  Lots of data acronyms have no references elsewhere in the
>paper; I can only guess @ what's intended.  Some are obvious, many are
>cryptic.
>
>Anybody gone through this?  I'd like to help / collaborate w/ anyone on this;
>hardware to get the data from ALDL to COM port is easy, works well.  Software
>to capture & log the data doesn't require a genius (after all, I did it in
>QuickBasic).  Trouble is, "what do it all mean..."?
>
>Any help *very* gladly accepted - thanks - Barry
>

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 07:33:30 1999
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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 23:50:56 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Barry Tisdale <btisdale@cybersol.com>
Subject: RE: ALDL project
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1991 GMC Syclone 4.3 turbo
ECM# 1227749
Scan ID: 3971
Delco ID: AYBN 4175
GM part # 16164174

Actual chip being used is an aftermarket, but lookup table, open loop changes only.  Data xmitted by stock chip & aftermarket chip corresponds.

Thanks - Barry

At 07:57 PM 3/1/99 -0800, you wrote:
>If you list the part number and Chip broadcast code perhaps we can find
>something.
>Ward
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 08:48:46 1999
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To everyone with ALDL questions.
    I've got a 95 GM ECM running a 96 LT-1.  I received lots of help from others
on this list (and other lists), and now have an ALDL scanner running.  In fact I
used it last night to look at the desired idle speed.  
    Remember, nearly ECM uses a different command set, but if you are 
interested, you will find lots of info on my web page.  Check out:
    http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1624


    I've got a schematic for the ALDL to PC comm port.  I've got a description 
for MY ALDL commands.  
    I've got an executable for running on your Windows 95 (or 98 I think) 
laptop.  It lets you see all the raw data plus decoded data updated on the 
screen.
    I've got disassembled code from inside my ECM.

    Have fun.  Good luck.  

Dave Hempstead
dave_hempstead@hp.com


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 09:02:35 1999
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Subject: Propane
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Ray wrote:

>The relief valve would have to stand up to the vaporizing propane, but
>the injecter would only see warm liquid at a 30 PSI pressure difference.
>What needs to be found is an injecter that is sturdy enough to withstand
>330 PSI without bursting.

330 psi.... that is about 22 bar in christian units. Surely, that is a
fairly trivial pressure in the diesel world, where 30 bar is " normal ",
and equipment works up to about 3 MPa.

IMHO


Y'rs &c



John Warr

'75 XJ-S...  can pass anything on the road... except a petrol station.



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 09:51:53 1999
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Subject: Re: 730 in a buick...
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Yes, the Somerset is in fact a 2-door N body (aka Grand Am or Calais).  It
was only made for a few years -- 85 to 87 I think.  When Buick quit making
the X body Skylark, it started making a 4-door version of the Somerset
which it rebadged as Skylark.  My 85 Somerset has the 1226864 ECM with the
2.5L 4-cyl - currently undergoing a serious rebuild!





Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com> on 03/01/99 03:49:38 PM

Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
                                                              
                                                              
                                                              
 To:      Diy_efi <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>            
                                                              
 cc:      (bcc: John Teller/ORBVA)                            
                                                              
                                                              
                                                              
 Subject: Re: 730 in a buick...                               
                                                              




David A. Cooley wrote:
> Looking to find any info on a 730 ECM in a 1987 Buick Somerset Regal,
2.5L
> 4cyl...

That's a strange combination.  The Somerset Regal is just a Grand Am (N
body), right?  If so, it should probably have a '748 with the 2.5.  The
'730 would imply a 2.8, or perhaps a 2.0.

> Any one have table locations etc?  My brother just bought one and wants
me
> to help him pump it up a bit.

We need more information - a P4 ECM can have many different table
arrangements.  What is the 8th byte of the EPROM?

--
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/





From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 09:58:05 1999
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From: Jemison Richard <JemisonR@tce.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Propane
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 09:56:48 -0500 
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Hey John,

Catch me offline.  I'd love to hear about that bike!   I've got a few XSs!

rick

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	John_Warr-1@sbphrd.com [SMTP:John_Warr-1@sbphrd.com]
> Sent:	Tuesday, March 02, 1999 9:01 AM
> To:	DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Propane
> 
> Ray wrote:
> 
> >The relief valve would have to stand up to the vaporizing propane, but
> >the injecter would only see warm liquid at a 30 PSI pressure difference.
> >What needs to be found is an injecter that is sturdy enough to withstand
> >330 PSI without bursting.
> 
> 330 psi.... that is about 22 bar in christian units. Surely, that is a
> fairly trivial pressure in the diesel world, where 30 bar is " normal ",
> and equipment works up to about 3 MPa.
> 
> IMHO
> 
> 
> Y'rs &c
> 
> 
> 
> John Warr
> 
> '75 XJ-S...  can pass anything on the road... except a petrol station.
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 10:17:25 1999
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From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: EFI for Propane
In-Reply-To: <19990301.004934.13318.2.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
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On Sun, 28 Feb 1999, Raymond C Drouillard wrote:

> Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 23:15:41 -0500
> From: Raymond C Drouillard <cosmic.ray@juno.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: EFI for Propane
> 
> 
> Very good point!  Even here in Michigan, it would be a good idea to get
> the documentation on the standards.  It makes good sense to build the
> system to safety standards that were developed from exerience.  Some
> experience is very costly...
> 
> Ray

I'm in the middle of a move so it might be a while but I still have the 
Ontario lpg inpectors training manual. If I find it soon, I'll scan it 
and upload it ( I also did the installers course so manuals are around 
for that as well)

> 
> 
> 
> ___________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
> 

Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 15:30:05 1999
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From: andy quaas <realsquash@yahoo.com>
Subject: streetdyno software
To: diy efi <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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First, has anyone verified that this is at all accurate?  Second,
where would the best place for the recorder to be?  Under the hood?  

Andy




_________________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 15:54:56 1999
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Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 12:54:52 -0800 (PST)
From: "Eric J. Lilleness" <eric.j.lilleness@boeing.com>
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To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Holley 4D1
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I'm considering a Holley 4Di for a moderately built Ford 460, about 475 HP.

My main goal is passing emissions, but I would also like some of the other
features of EFI, such as not hitting 2500 RPM when I cold-start the damn thing
at 0530 to go to work.......

As an FYI, I had a shop to the actual motor R&R, but picked all the components
myself, as well as porting the heads, so feel free to send questions on big
Fords my way.

Questions:

(1) How will emissions on a Holley 4Di equipped engine compare to a factory EFI? 

(2) Is there a way to insure that (as an example) the front right injector
will always be the injector that fires during the #1 cylinder's intake stroke?
This would seem to require that the ECU "knows" what cylinder each ignition
pulse is intended for.
 
(3) If the answer to the above is "no", will emissions be about the same as, 
or worse than batch-fired port injection? 
 
(4) Is the timing of the injector firing progammable in a manner similar to 
ignition advance varying as a function of RPM? 
 
(5) Iv'e heard a few love/hate stories on Holley EFI; but how are their
current products, especially the 4Di?

		Thanks, Eric

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 16:13:38 1999
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Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 15:16:44 -0600
From: Daniel Ciobota <dciobota@hiwaay.net>
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Subject: Re: streetdyno software
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Andy et al.,

I'm not sure if I posted on the list that I already verified the street
dyno to be within 10hp of my last professional chassis dyno runs, and
that was before a few additional minor mods.  So, yes, I consider it to
be pretty accurate for tuning.

 I ran the voltage divider wire through the stock firewall plug and
drilled for an rca connector in a hidden spot on my center console.  I
wouldn't recommend running any kind of recording equipment under the
hood; the heat would destroy it pretty quickly.

 I was planning to do more street dyno runs, but, alas, I sold the
mustang and purchased a vette.  I'm in the process of learning more
about aldl, so you folks out there talking about it have a very
attentive audience...  I saw the laptop interface, and as soon as I have
the time I'll do some data dumps.  Btw, my vette is an 89 (L98 tpi
motor), anyone have experience with those?

Daniel



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 16:39:40 1999
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From: andy quaas <realsquash@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Holley 4D1
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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I had a 900cfm 4Di.  I just bought another one sunday.  They are great
for power and tuneability.  I don't know about emmisions, but they
should be just fine if tuned properly.  The injectors fire
sequentially.  Yes, all 4.  One injector fires, then the next, and so
on.

Andy


---"Eric J. Lilleness" <eric.j.lilleness@boeing.com> wrote:
>
> I'm considering a Holley 4Di for a moderately built Ford 460, about
475 HP.
> 
> My main goal is passing emissions, but I would also like some of the
other
> features of EFI, such as not hitting 2500 RPM when I cold-start the
damn thing
> at 0530 to go to work.......
> 
> As an FYI, I had a shop to the actual motor R&R, but picked all the
components
> myself, as well as porting the heads, so feel free to send questions
on big
> Fords my way.
> 
> Questions:
> 
> (1) How will emissions on a Holley 4Di equipped engine compare to a
factory EFI? 
> 
> (2) Is there a way to insure that (as an example) the front right
injector
> will always be the injector that fires during the #1 cylinder's
intake stroke?
> This would seem to require that the ECU "knows" what cylinder each
ignition
> pulse is intended for.
>  
> (3) If the answer to the above is "no", will emissions be about the
same as, 
> or worse than batch-fired port injection? 
>  
> (4) Is the timing of the injector firing progammable in a manner
similar to 
> ignition advance varying as a function of RPM? 
>  
> (5) Iv'e heard a few love/hate stories on Holley EFI; but how are
their
> current products, especially the 4Di?
> 
> 		Thanks, Eric
> 

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 16:44:14 1999
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> Still working on the ALDL / PC thing.  I've gotten *several* copies of the GM paper on the diagnostic link; all are probably from the same source, way back when, as they all contain the same typos an> 
> Has anyone actually 'decoded' the actual data, i.e., converted the raw data into meaningful information?  Some of the calcs given in the GM paper are just plain wrong.  Lots of data acronyms have no > 
> Anybody gone through this?  I'd like to help / collaborate w/ anyone on this; hardware to get the data from ALDL to COM port is easy, works well.  Software to capture & log the data doesn't require a> 
> Any help *very* gladly accepted - thanks - Barry
> 
I am looking at obd-2 data, some of the J2190 packet data could be 
similiar. I have made vehicle units to hook into scan tool to 
decode.  Have been looking at a 96 C-3500 which also sends out 8192.
I am still sorting thru the 1792 possible obd-2  J1979 open std 
messages.  I will work on ALDL and KWP2000 next and glad to help.
alex

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 17:12:59 1999
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In-Reply-To: <19990302202855.16588.rocketmail@send1e.yahoomail.com> from "andy quaas" at Mar 02, 1999 12:28:55 PM
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andy quaas wrote:
> 
> First, has anyone verified that this is at all accurate?  Second,
> where would the best place for the recorder to be?  Under the hood?  
> 
> Andy


OK, I haven't tried StreeDyno yet, but I have been using HomeDyno and
I can verify that it's right on.  I've got some charts to show the
results on http://www.inficad.com/~houlster/Amigo/Turbo/dynoruns.htm

Specifically, I've charted the HomeDyno with the chassis dyno (done
by ProDyno in Temp, AZ) results and they're just about right on.
http://www.inficad.com/~houlster/Amigo/Turbo/Images/dyno_preturbo_home_pro_composite.jpg

One caveat is that HomeDyno can only plot out to about 5000 rpm with
my recordings.  I'm not sure why, but I'm guessing that there's enough
noise that it confuses it at that rpm.  The voltage divider method of
StreetDyno might work better in that respect.  I only make runs to 5500
so I'm not too worried about it.

It could also be the inductive sensor I wired up as it doesn't seem to
be a common problem.

The point?  This is all just basic physics.  You have to know your weight
and gearing and guess pretty good at things like frontal area and drag
coeffiecient for this to be accurate.  If you've got a chassis dyno 
plot to compare against, it's pretty easy to figure the unknowns in.

I can only imagine that StreetDyno is capable of the same accuracy as
HomeDyno.


--Dan

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 18:00:26 1999
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The Echlin lab in Conn. is in transistion and possible for sale.
They have several engine dynos, CARB approved emission
lab, mileage acumulation and test facilities for duarability of fuel 
injectors, o2 sensors and brakes.
alex
> Hello Everyone,
> I am an engineer in China Automobile Technology Research Center.
> Granted by the Director of the center, we are going to build up a test
> center to control the quality of automobile control system including
> engine EFI subsystem. But I don't know where I should begin with. Is
> there any similar center in the states?
> What I want to know is:
> 1) Needed equipments and suppliers
> 2) Related standards
> 3) Related URLs.
> Thank you very much for your help!
> I would be very grateful if you send emails directly to me.
> 
> Best regards,
> Qiang Chen                       
> 
> 
> ==================================
> Qiang Chen
> 9-2-16,Nanjiang Xili, Jialing Rd.,
> Nankai District, Tianjin 300113,
> P.R.China
> Phone: 86(22)2769-3021
> Email: q_chen@usa.net
> 
> 
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 18:10:48 1999
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References: <19990302202855.16588.rocketmail@send1e.yahoomail.com> from "andy quaas" at Mar 02, 1999 12:28:55 PM
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> OK, I haven't tried StreeDyno yet, but I have been using HomeDyno and
> I can verify that it's right on.  I've got some charts to show the
> results on http://www.inficad.com/~houlster/Amigo/Turbo/dynoruns.htm
> 
> Specifically, I've charted the HomeDyno with the chassis dyno (done
> by ProDyno in Temp, AZ) results and they're just about right on.
> http://www.inficad.com/~houlster/Amigo/Turbo/Images/dyno_preturbo_home_pro_composite.jpg
> 
> One caveat is that HomeDyno can only plot out to about 5000 rpm with
> my recordings.  I'm not sure why, but I'm guessing that there's enough
> noise that it confuses it at that rpm.  The voltage divider method of
> StreetDyno might work better in that respect.  I only make runs to 5500
> so I'm not too worried about it.
> 
> It could also be the inductive sensor I wired up as it doesn't seem to
> be a common problem.
> 
> The point?  This is all just basic physics.  You have to know your weight
> and gearing and guess pretty good at things like frontal area and drag
> coeffiecient for this to be accurate.  If you've got a chassis dyno 
> plot to compare against, it's pretty easy to figure the unknowns in.
> 
> I can only imagine that StreetDyno is capable of the same accuracy as
> HomeDyno.
Would it help to calculate the road load HP by coast down?
These results 55 to 45 can be found in IM240 lookup table you can
down load(large) at EPA web site.  There is also a frontal area 
roadload HP correction formula in Code of Federal Register used for 
testing.
alex

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 19:05:13 1999
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From: "Ward Spoonemore" <spoonie@deltanet.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: ALDL project
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 16:07:02 -0800
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Your AYBN Calibration is a P4 series ECM using the ecm you listed, the
applications are:

my 1991 1/2	4.3l LB5 vin Z Syclone Truck
my 1992 	4.3l LB5 Vin Z 'T' truck
my 1992 	4.3l LB5 Vin Z 'T' truck

I suspect that this is a uneque series not used by other platforms.

8192 baud in a "handshake" modality.
There are 5 different Comm modes

Mode 1: Diagnostic data, 63 bytes long
Mode 2: A memory dump (64 contagious bytes at a time)
Mode 3: Selectable memory bump, may format and dump up to 8 bytes
Mode 4: Provides the ability to alter specific ECM function on the fly. AFR.
EGR SPK Etc.
Mode 7: Command mode, (restores normal operation)

All of these command require the issuance of a message request for each
occurrence of the desired mode.

I assume from your prior e-mail you are using mode one at this time is that
correct ?

and what else would you like to know ?

ard

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Barry
> Tisdale
> Sent: Monday, March 01, 1999 8:51 PM
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: RE: ALDL project
>
>
> 1991 GMC Syclone 4.3 turbo
> ECM# 1227749
> Scan ID: 3971
> Delco ID: AYBN 4175
> GM part # 16164174
>
> Actual chip being used is an aftermarket, but lookup table, open
> loop changes only.  Data xmitted by stock chip & aftermarket chip
> corresponds.
>
> Thanks - Barry
>
> At 07:57 PM 3/1/99 -0800, you wrote:
> >If you list the part number and Chip broadcast code perhaps we can find
> >something.
> >Ward
> >
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 20:43:13 1999
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Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 20:42:45 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Padgett 0sirius <padgett@gdi.net>
Subject: Re: ALDL, again
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Well just a quick look at my Fiero (1227170/APR0164) ALDL (C3) gives a
stream like this:
000 A4 00 2A 4D C5 00 38 3B 14 80 90 00 20 00 60 24
010 1A 87 90 01 4A 00 97 00 68 A0 00 2A 4B C5 00 37 
020 34 14 80 8F 00 20 00 60 25 1A 88 90 01 4A 00 97 
030 00 70 A0 00 2A 46 C5 00 36 33 14 80 8E 00 20 00 
040 60 24 1A 88 90 01 4A 00 97 00 6E
(then repeats for the next frame).

00 2a (42) is the reported PROM ID. Diacom software interprets as follows:

Engine Speed................... 1275 RPM
Vehicle Speed..................    0 MPH
Coolant Temperature............  224 F
Manifold Air Temperature.......  106 F
Throttle Sensor Voltage........ 0.40 VDC
MAP / Vacuum Sensor Voltage.... 1.08 VDC
Oxygen Sensor Voltage..........  628 mV
Oxygen Sensor Transitions......    1 #
Battery Voltage................ 13.6 VDC
Idle Air Position..............   70 #
Injector Pulse Width...........  1.7 mS
Spark Advance.................. 26.1 DEG
EGR Duty Cycle.................    0 %
Integrator.....................  128 #
Block Learn Multiplier.........  144 #
Closed Loop Status.............  Off
Fuel Mixture Status............ Rich
Battery Status................. Norm
Torque Converter Clutch........  Off
Park/Neutral Switch............  Off
Power Steering Switch..........  Off
EGR Diagnostic Switch..........  Off
Learn Control..................  Off
 
Using available data, it seems likely that the "A0" at offset 019h (sorry,
I find it easier to think in hex) is coolant temp (1.35*160-8), "33" at
offset 039h is the RPM (1275/4=51/33h), & 46h at offset 035h is IAC (70).
Suspect the rest can be decoded the same way once I get a chance to compare
several readings.

Or is all of this common knowlege /way off ? Am trying to come back up to
speed.
      	A. Padgett Peterson, P.E. Cybernetic Psychophysicist
 Anti-Virus, Cryptographics, & Antique Radio Researcher
http://www.freivald.org/~padgett/index.html
 mailto:padgett@gdi.net     PGP 5.5 Key on request


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 21:20:42 1999
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From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: ALDL, again
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On Tue, 2 Mar 1999, Padgett 0sirius wrote:

> Well just a quick look at my Fiero (1227170/APR0164) ALDL (C3) gives a
> stream like this:
> 000 A4 00 2A 4D C5 00 38 3B 14 80 90 00 20 00 60 24
> 010 1A 87 90 01 4A 00 97 00 68 A0 00 2A 4B C5 00 37 
> 020 34 14 80 8F 00 20 00 60 25 1A 88 90 01 4A 00 97 
> 030 00 70 A0 00 2A 46 C5 00 36 33 14 80 8E 00 20 00 
> 040 60 24 1A 88 90 01 4A 00 97 00 6E
> (then repeats for the next frame).
> 
> 00 2a (42) is the reported PROM ID. Diacom software interprets as follows:
> 
> Engine Speed................... 1275 RPM
> Vehicle Speed..................    0 MPH
> Coolant Temperature............  224 F
> Manifold Air Temperature.......  106 F
> Throttle Sensor Voltage........ 0.40 VDC
> MAP / Vacuum Sensor Voltage.... 1.08 VDC
> Oxygen Sensor Voltage..........  628 mV
> Oxygen Sensor Transitions......    1 #
> Battery Voltage................ 13.6 VDC
> Idle Air Position..............   70 #
> Injector Pulse Width...........  1.7 mS
> Spark Advance................... 26.1 DEG
> EGR Duty Cycle.................    0 %
> Integrator.....................  128 #
> Block Learn Multiplier.........  144 #
> Closed Loop Status.............  Off
> Fuel Mixture Status............ Rich
> Battery Status................. Norm
> Torque Converter Clutch........  Off
> Park/Neutral Switch............  Off
> Power Steering Switch..........  Off
> EGR Diagnostic Switch..........  Off
> Learn Control..................  Off
>  
> Using available data, it seems likely that the "A0" at offset 019h (sorry,
> I find it easier to think in hex) is coolant temp (1.35*160-8), "33" at
> offset 039h is the RPM (1275/4=51/33h), & 46h at offset 035h is IAC (70).
> Suspect the rest can be decoded the same way once I get a chance to compare
> several readings.
> 
> Or is all of this common knowlege /way off ? Am trying to come back up to
> speed.

>From my experience, your conclusions are correct.  And knowing this,
with a few more frames you should be able to decode all of the info
displayed by diacom.   There is probably some additional info that is
in the data stream but not displayed by diacom.  There are quite a few
bits of info I found about, and decoded, that were in the raw diacom
file but not displayed by diacom. 

				Roger


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 21:32:01 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: ALDL project
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Boy this mode 4 sounds neat,  any clues about how that's actually done..
Bruce

>Mode 1: Diagnostic data, 63 bytes long
>Mode 2: A memory dump (64 contagious bytes at a time)
>Mode 3: Selectable memory bump, may format and dump up to 8 bytes
>Mode 4: Provides the ability to alter specific ECM function on the fly.
AFR.
>EGR SPK Etc.
>Mode 7: Command mode, (restores normal operation)
>
>All of these command require the issuance of a message request for each
>occurrence of the desired mode.

>and what else would you like to know ?
>ard



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sorry,
I should read eevrything in the mailbox before I
start typing..
MV:

> 
>  my 1991 1/2	4.3l LB5 vin Z Syclone Truck
>  my 1992 	4.3l LB5 Vin Z 'T' truck
>  my 1992 	4.3l LB5 Vin Z 'T' truck
>  

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Allow me;
 GMC Syclone ECM, 1227749, 8192 baud, BC code is AYBM-4052 
I have the same .
HTH  Mike V

> Most likely you are unaware that GM has around a hundred different diag data
>  standards, There are four different data xmission standards, including OBD
>  II. perhaps is you stated your needs ..... ECM P/N, and or broadcast code
>  ...
>  Ward
>  
>  -----Original Message-----
>  From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>  [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Barry
>  Tisdale
>  Sent: Monday, March 01, 1999 7:23 PM
>  To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>  Subject: ALDL, again
>  
>  
>  Still working on the ALDL / PC thing.  I've gotten *several* copies of the
>  GM paper on the diagnostic link; all are probably from the same source, way
>  back when, as they all contain the same typos and inaccuracies.
>  
>  Has anyone actually 'decoded' the actual data, i.e., converted the raw data
>  into meaningful information?  Some of the calcs given in the GM paper are
>  just plain wrong.  Lots of data acronyms have no references elsewhere in
the
>  paper; I can only guess @ what's intended.  Some are obvious, many are
>  cryptic.
>  
>  Anybody gone through this?  I'd like to help / collaborate w/ anyone on
>  this; hardware to get the data from ALDL to COM port is easy, works well.
>  Software to capture & log the data doesn't require a genius (after all, I
>  did it in QuickBasic).  Trouble is, "what do it all mean..."?
>  
>  Any help *very* gladly accepted - thanks - Barry
>  

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 23:30:10 1999
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cybergate.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: EFI for Propane
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 21:37:17 -0500
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I was just at the SAE Exposition in Detroit (where else?)  There was an LPG
injection system on display.  The system was just like a non-return EFI
system, right down to the submerged fuel pump in the tank.  The injectors
were mounted in the port and were fed from a fuel rail.  The hoses were high
pressure, though.  The injectors were white and very large in diameter (the
coil part).

The engine was a Ford 5.4 Triton V8.  Next to the injectors was another
gismo that looked just like a really long injector but there was no fuel
line.  After scratching my head for a while and noticing a potted circuit
board in the top, I realized that this thing covered a spark plug.  It
appears to be an integral coil that clips right to the plug.  There is a 2
conductor connector for each one.

On another note, there was also a company, Adrenaline Research, selling a
combination plasma ignition and ion sensor.
http://www.adrenalineresearch.com/smartfire.htm

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 23:30:29 1999
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From: "Ezra Hall" <ehall@together.net>
To: "Bob Hale x594" <bob_hale@or.credence.com>
Cc: "Steve Gorkowski" <kb4mxo@mwt.net>, <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: UEGO bias (Heater requirements)
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 23:32:32 -0500
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Bob,
 Thanks for the info. I am interested in the schematics you have, any chance
you could scan them? Or fax them? I am particularly interested in any
information on protection of the pumping cell until proper temp has been
obtained, or any other conditions that might be using to determine when it
is safe to enable the feedback loop. The patents I have looked at do not
provide enough details, and I don't want to "blacken" my sensor...

 I made some measurements tonight on my UEGO sensor to determine the Thermal
Coef of resistivity for the heating element. I did this by measuring its
resistance at room temp, then at ~200DegC (heated the unit for 30minutes in
the oven). I fashioned a 10mA current source (calibrated to +-2%), and used
this to apply current to the heating element to more accurately measure
resistance. To measure temp, I placed a thermocouple in one of the holes on
the sensor tip, and wrapped the assembly tightly in Al foil. Here are the
measurements at various temps as it heated up. The last measurement was
after approx. 30 minutes in the oven.
Temp (C)     R (ohms)     Coef (Ohm/C)
25                 3.02             NA
165               4.39             0.0098
209               4.89             0.0102
220               4.95             0.0099
221               5.06             0.0104

I will use 0.01 Ohm/Deg C for simplicity, any idea what metal is used?

I then sampled heater current vs. time (2Hz sample rate) while applying 5
volts then 10 volts to the heater. Here are a few data points for reference:

Time        Amps    Volts   Ohms  Deg C
    0.00     1.23    4.90    3.98  121.37
   10.00    1.06    4.90    4.62  185.26
   20.00    1.01    4.90    4.85  208.15
   30.00    0.97    4.90    5.05  228.15
   40.00    0.94    4.90    5.21  244.28
   50.00    0.94    4.90    5.21  244.28
   60.00    0.93    4.90    5.27  249.88
   70.00    1.64    9.70    5.91  314.46
   80.00    1.40    9.70    6.93  415.86
   90.00    1.33    9.70    7.29  452.32
  100.00   1.29    9.70    7.52  474.94
  110.00   1.27    9.70    7.64  486.78

 Sitting in free air, this thing obviously is not going to reach 650 Deg C
with 9.7 volts to the heater in any reasonable amount of time. That would
explain all the patents on controlling the temp of these sensors by using
resistance as the feedback parameter of a simple control system...

I will CC the diy-efi list in case anyone else is interested in this info.
Steve Gorkowski sent me some pictures of current vs. time for his sensor, so
I know he will be interested. Let me know if you can send me any additional
info from the NTK documents.

Thanks,
 Ezra

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Hale x594 <bob_hale@or.credence.com>
To: ehall@together.net <ehall@together.net>
Date: Tuesday, March 02, 1999 4:20 PM
Subject: UEGO bias


>I saw your posting in the diy_efi archives regarding the heater voltage
>for the wide range Honda sensor.  I was looking for data on such sensors
>for my own purposes, and thought that I would forward what I have learned
>to you.
>
>I contacted NGK/NTK regarding wide range sensors and they eventually sent
>me some data.  They didn't want to acknowledge the Honda part number, but
>they did send me data on a sensor which appears to be identical to the
>Honda sensor, based on descriptions that I have read in the diy_efi
>archives.
>
>The NTK UEGO part number is TL-7111-W1, and NTK wants $600 plus an
>agreement to not sell it, to use it only on an engine, etc.  The
>companion interface box is another $400, and the cable is $60.
>
>The NTK data says that the heater supply voltage is 10.5 +- 0.5 volts,
>that the heater resistance is 2.9 to 3.4 ohms at room temperature,
>that the pumping current is 3.86 to 5.34 ma with 16% oxygen atmosphere.
>It also cautions that the user shouldn't have the sensor present in
>an exhaust system if the heater isn't powered up, and shouldn't
>install the heater in a low spot where liquid water could condense.
>Also, prohibitions on fuel that contains lead, phosphorous, sulfur,
>and silicon are in effect.  There is a conceptual schematic diagram
>of how to implement instrumentation around it (no component values).
>
>The sensor is a two-stage unit: the first stage is supplied with
>a current and that pumps oxygen into a chamber where the second
>stage reacts that oxygen with exhaust gas with a 450 mv bias present.
>The exhaust oxygen content is inferred by measuring the current in the
>second stage.
>
>I hope that this is useful to you.  Please feel free to make use
>of it as you see fit.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Bob Hale   bob_hale@credence.com


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 23:31:24 1999
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Yeah, I am still interested in the project, I must have mistated myself with
the diodes.  I did use 4 2n4400 transistors.  I have gotten some stuff out,
but it only seems to work if I plug the wire to the serial in while the
ignition is on.  I'd be interested in trying your Qbasic program if you get a
chance.  I am tentatively going to try and write something in Visual Basic but
am having problems with my new motherboard.  I believe my board is wired ok I
made 2 and they both sdo the same thing... (for all I know I made both
incorrectly)

Thanks
Bill

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  2 23:35:49 1999
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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Holley 4D1
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 20:35:46 -0800 
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I have a 700CFM 4Di on a 70 Mustang and it passes emmisions with no
problems.  Has anyone figured out all the fields in the download file?  BTW,
the eev21 software won't run, on my Thinkpad 600.  It gives a divide error
even when run from DOS. Any ideas?  me

-----Original Message-----
From: andy quaas [mailto:realsquash@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 1999 2:40 PM
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Holley 4D1


I had a 900cfm 4Di.  I just bought another one sunday.  They are great
for power and tuneability.  I don't know about emmisions, but they
should be just fine if tuned properly.  The injectors fire
sequentially.  Yes, all 4.  One injector fires, then the next, and so
on.

Andy


---"Eric J. Lilleness" <eric.j.lilleness@boeing.com> wrote:
>
> I'm considering a Holley 4Di for a moderately built Ford 460, about
475 HP.
> 
> My main goal is passing emissions, but I would also like some of the
other
> features of EFI, such as not hitting 2500 RPM when I cold-start the
damn thing
> at 0530 to go to work.......
> 
> As an FYI, I had a shop to the actual motor R&R, but picked all the
components
> myself, as well as porting the heads, so feel free to send questions
on big
> Fords my way.
> 
> Questions:
> 
> (1) How will emissions on a Holley 4Di equipped engine compare to a
factory EFI? 
> 
> (2) Is there a way to insure that (as an example) the front right
injector
> will always be the injector that fires during the #1 cylinder's
intake stroke?
> This would seem to require that the ECU "knows" what cylinder each
ignition
> pulse is intended for.
>  
> (3) If the answer to the above is "no", will emissions be about the
same as, 
> or worse than batch-fired port injection? 
>  
> (4) Is the timing of the injector firing progammable in a manner
similar to 
> ignition advance varying as a function of RPM? 
>  
> (5) Iv'e heard a few love/hate stories on Holley EFI; but how are
their
> current products, especially the 4Di?
> 
> 		Thanks, Eric
> 

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 00:05:01 1999
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For sale:

Lucas 370cc/min fuel injectors, Bosch small o-ring style, low impedence 

Balanced and blueprinted by RC engineering 

Used for dyno tuning and found to be insufficient for needs, new condition

Good for ~225hp at 80% duty cycle

Paid $80 each, sell all 4 for $200

If interested please e-mail  John Magnuson at turvovo@aol.com

Thanks.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 00:05:34 1999
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References: <3.0.5.32.19990302204245.00842290@gdi.net>
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If you go the the diy_efi WWW page, click on oem systems, then click gm,
then click programming 101 you'll see in there a list of "units", which
is how to get from the binary value you see in an PROM (or aldl stream,
I suppose) to a real world unit like temp, rpm, mph, map, etc.  That may
help you decode the stream.

--steve

Padgett 0sirius wrote:
> 
> Well just a quick look at my Fiero (1227170/APR0164) ALDL (C3) gives a
> stream like this:
> 000 A4 00 2A 4D C5 00 38 3B 14 80 90 00 20 00 60 24
> 010 1A 87 90 01 4A 00 97 00 68 A0 00 2A 4B C5 00 37
> 020 34 14 80 8F 00 20 00 60 25 1A 88 90 01 4A 00 97
> 030 00 70 A0 00 2A 46 C5 00 36 33 14 80 8E 00 20 00
> 040 60 24 1A 88 90 01 4A 00 97 00 6E
> (then repeats for the next frame).
> 
> 00 2a (42) is the reported PROM ID. Diacom software interprets as follows:
> 
> Engine Speed................... 1275 RPM
> Vehicle Speed..................    0 MPH
> Coolant Temperature............  224 F
> Manifold Air Temperature.......  106 F
> Throttle Sensor Voltage........ 0.40 VDC
> MAP / Vacuum Sensor Voltage.... 1.08 VDC
> Oxygen Sensor Voltage..........  628 mV
> Oxygen Sensor Transitions......    1 #
> Battery Voltage................ 13.6 VDC
> Idle Air Position..............   70 #
> Injector Pulse Width...........  1.7 mS
> Spark Advance.................. 26.1 DEG
> EGR Duty Cycle.................    0 %
> Integrator.....................  128 #
> Block Learn Multiplier.........  144 #
> Closed Loop Status.............  Off
> Fuel Mixture Status............ Rich
> Battery Status................. Norm
> Torque Converter Clutch........  Off
> Park/Neutral Switch............  Off
> Power Steering Switch..........  Off
> EGR Diagnostic Switch..........  Off
> Learn Control..................  Off
> 
> Using available data, it seems likely that the "A0" at offset 019h (sorry,
> I find it easier to think in hex) is coolant temp (1.35*160-8), "33" at
> offset 039h is the RPM (1275/4=51/33h), & 46h at offset 035h is IAC (70).
> Suspect the rest can be decoded the same way once I get a chance to compare
> several readings.
> 
> Or is all of this common knowlege /way off ? Am trying to come back up to
> speed.
>         A. Padgett Peterson, P.E. Cybernetic Psychophysicist
>  Anti-Virus, Cryptographics, & Antique Radio Researcher
> http://www.freivald.org/~padgett/index.html
>  mailto:padgett@gdi.net     PGP 5.5 Key on request

-- 
Steve Ravet
ARM, INC
steve.ravet@arm.com
www.arm.com

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Subject: RE: ALDL, again
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 21:06:51 -0800
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I think this ia s C3 ECM and your looking at it as async data ?

The ECM your looking at has a 25 byte output starting with the 2 byte EPROM
ID, this is the scan ID
the catch is that the data is syncronous at 160 baud. This data string
requires no stimulation it just chatters on endlessly.

Calib APR/0164 HAS A SCAN ID OF 0042
Following the 2 ID bytes are some interesting flag bytes, and so on.

Coolant si the 4th byte, to conversion is:
	COOLANT TEMPERATURE,  Deg c = (n * 0.75) - 40
	(n = the decimal values of the binary output)

WARD.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
[mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Roger
Heflin
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 1999 6:21 PM
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: ALDL, again




On Tue, 2 Mar 1999, Padgett 0sirius wrote:

> Well just a quick look at my Fiero (1227170/APR0164) ALDL (C3) gives a
> stream like this:
> 000 A4 00 2A 4D C5 00 38 3B 14 80 90 00 20 00 60 24
> 010 1A 87 90 01 4A 00 97 00 68 A0 00 2A 4B C5 00 37
> 020 34 14 80 8F 00 20 00 60 25 1A 88 90 01 4A 00 97
> 030 00 70 A0 00 2A 46 C5 00 36 33 14 80 8E 00 20 00
> 040 60 24 1A 88 90 01 4A 00 97 00 6E
> (then repeats for the next frame).
>
> 00 2a (42) is the reported PROM ID. Diacom software interprets as follows:
>
> Engine Speed................... 1275 RPM
> Vehicle Speed..................    0 MPH
> Coolant Temperature............  224 F
> Manifold Air Temperature.......  106 F
> Throttle Sensor Voltage........ 0.40 VDC
> MAP / Vacuum Sensor Voltage.... 1.08 VDC
> Oxygen Sensor Voltage..........  628 mV
> Oxygen Sensor Transitions......    1 #
> Battery Voltage................ 13.6 VDC
> Idle Air Position..............   70 #
> Injector Pulse Width...........  1.7 mS
> Spark Advance................... 26.1 DEG
> EGR Duty Cycle.................    0 %
> Integrator.....................  128 #
> Block Learn Multiplier.........  144 #
> Closed Loop Status.............  Off
> Fuel Mixture Status............ Rich
> Battery Status................. Norm
> Torque Converter Clutch........  Off
> Park/Neutral Switch............  Off
> Power Steering Switch..........  Off
> EGR Diagnostic Switch..........  Off
> Learn Control..................  Off
>
> Using available data, it seems likely that the "A0" at offset 019h (sorry,
> I find it easier to think in hex) is coolant temp (1.35*160-8), "33" at
> offset 039h is the RPM (1275/4=51/33h), & 46h at offset 035h is IAC (70).
> Suspect the rest can be decoded the same way once I get a chance to
compare
> several readings.
>
> Or is all of this common knowlege /way off ? Am trying to come back up to
> speed.

>From my experience, your conclusions are correct.  And knowing this,
with a few more frames you should be able to decode all of the info
displayed by diacom.   There is probably some additional info that is
in the data stream but not displayed by diacom.  There are quite a few
bits of info I found about, and decoded, that were in the raw diacom
file but not displayed by diacom.

				Roger


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 00:17:44 1999
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From: bob@bobthecomputerguy.com (Robert Harris)
To: fanglers@xephic.dynip.com, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Combustion - Third Edition by Irwin Glassman
Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 05:17:08 GMT
Organization: Bob - the Computer Guy
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It's here.  It's mine -all mine.   No more Inter Library Loan.  It's all mine.
Go ahead - gloat - but I got the word from on high about all that is needed to
be known about combustion - at least a readable primary source by someone who
is referenced by everyone in all papers.  

All you ever wanted to know about combustion - de mything most folk lore and
explaining what actually happens.  Mine - all mine.   Unfair advantage - I
love It!!!!.

	Clearly needing a life over enthusiastic bibliophile.

1963 Ford C-600 Prison Bus Conversion "Home"
1971 Lincoln Continental 460 "Christine"
1972 "Whale" Mustang awaiting transplant
1978 Dodge Long Bed Peeek Up "Bundymobile"

Habaneros - not just for breakfast anymore

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 00:18:39 1999
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From: "Ward Spoonemore" <spoonie@deltanet.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: ALDL project
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 21:19:09 -0800
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Yes mode 4 did sound interesting, but the problem, is that only P4 ECM have
this feature and virtualy erery one onf them require disfferent
interogation/response words. And the problem is the the changed taht you
woulds make don't blend in to the calibration very well.

For example you can alter the spark output at any given point, but this is a
global change, like tunring the distributer,
how do you translate this to a spark table. Very trickey, as a result after
if figured it out I never used it.

I have how ever used mode 2 and 3, my 1st download from a flash mem PCM was
done with mode 2, 64 bytes at a time.
Mode 3 letst you havwe na abreviated diagnostc of your own design that can
run up to a frame /


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
[mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Bruce
Plecan
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 1999 6:35 PM
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: ALDL project


Boy this mode 4 sounds neat,  any clues about how that's actually done..
Bruce

>Mode 1: Diagnostic data, 63 bytes long
>Mode 2: A memory dump (64 contagious bytes at a time)
>Mode 3: Selectable memory bump, may format and dump up to 8 bytes
>Mode 4: Provides the ability to alter specific ECM function on the fly.
AFR.
>EGR SPK Etc.
>Mode 7: Command mode, (restores normal operation)
>
>All of these command require the issuance of a message request for each
>occurrence of the desired mode.

>and what else would you like to know ?
>ard



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 04:04:43 1999
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Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 00:56:07 -0800
From: Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
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Subject: Re: ALDL, again
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Padgett 0sirius <padgett@gdi.net>
> Well just a quick look at my Fiero (1227170/APR0164) ALDL (C3) gives a
> stream like this:

> Using available data, it seems likely that the "A0" at offset 019h (sorry,
> I find it easier to think in hex) is coolant temp (1.35*160-8), "33" at
> offset 039h is the RPM (1275/4=51/33h), & 46h at offset 035h is IAC (70).
> Suspect the rest can be decoded the same way once I get a chance to compare
> several readings.
> 
> Or is all of this common knowlege /way off ? Am trying to come back up to
> speed.

The V6 Fiero ALDL frame content description was posted to diy_efi a
_long_ time ago.  An archive search should find it.  A slightly better
version is also available on the web - a listee typed in a GM document
describing lots of old C3 ALDL formats.  The URL is/was:
  http://www.isthq.com/~dan/aldl.htm

After looking at Dan's info, if you still have questions about what the
various flag bits in the frame do, I can provide all the gory details.

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 06:13:41 1999
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Subject: Over enthusiastic bibliophile.
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You might also like to add "Atomization & Sprays" by Arthur Lefebvre to
your book shelf.

Other empty spaces could be filled with Kuznetsov & Sabel'niko, and Norman
Chigier's "Combustion Measurements".... but if the books are expensive,
wait till you start pricing up the apparatus.


Y'rs &c



John Warr


"In my opinion, there's nothing in this world
Beats a 52 Vincent and a red headed girl."



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 08:23:15 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Barry Tisdale <btisdale@cybersol.com>
Subject: Re: ALDL, again
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Thanks to everyone who responded to my original post.  Have things pretty well sorted out now as to what the data means.  Now, just have to do some pretty bar graphs for real-time dash display & some data massagers for Excel display / graphing of relevant functions.

Thanks again - Barry

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Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 13:59:14 +0000
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Subject: Re: Holley 4D1
References: <0948C812BA5FD211AC3F00A0C96920CA40509C@fmsmsx46.fm.intel.com>
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> I have a 700CFM 4Di on a 70 Mustang and it passes emmisions with no
> problems.  Has anyone figured out all the fields in the download file?  BTW,
> the eev21 software won't run, on my Thinkpad 600.  It gives a divide error
> even when run from DOS. Any ideas?  me

Let me guess, PCDOS 6 or 7, right?  The solution is to load
"setver.exe" and add the Holley executable to the "setver
list" and force the version number of DOS as 5.0.  This
makes the issue go away.  You'll find that on a lot of
application specific DOS software with the Thinkpads...

You remember how to use setver, right? <grin>

-- 
Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

http://www.xephic.dynip.com
1993 Superchaged Lincoln Continental
1989 500cid Turbocharged HWMMV
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab (soon to be twin turbo 440)
2000 Buick GTP (twin turbo V6)

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 09:33:59 1999
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Subject: Fuel Pressure Error Amp, PWM
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As promised, I've uploaded the controller schematics for a feedback
circuit. This circuit, used in conjunction with a fuel pressure sensor
and the PWM controller, should complete a fuel pressure regulating
system.

Find in the 'incoming':

FPRERR.GIF  and   FPRERR.TXT

This circuit is an error amp/charge pump to control the PWM circuit.

I've tested it on the bench using simulated inputs and ouputs, so
it should work as a whole. Those that try this out, let me know how
it works. I'll be in the garage today finishing up intalling the EFI
harness and hopefully the throttle body. Seems I now have too much
time on my hands. (Anybody in SE PA looking for a good software guy?)


BobR.

--



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 09:41:55 1999
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Does anyone have a source for coated armature wire that is low resistance
and small diameter, similar to the wire used in EFI injectors? All the
wire Ihave been able to find is either small diameter/high resistance or
large diameter/ low resistance.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 10:20:46 1999
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Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 10:20:42 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RC fuel injectors for sale
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At 06:41 AM 3/3/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>Does anyone have a source for coated armature wire that is low resistance
>and small diameter, similar to the wire used in EFI injectors? All the
>wire Ihave been able to find is either small diameter/high resistance or
>large diameter/ low resistance.
>
Not sure what guage they use, but any enamel/formvar coated copper wire
should do the trick...
The resistance problem is related to wire guage... the larger the guage
number, the smaller diameter and higher resistance per foot.
===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated.
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 11:47:23 1999
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From: "Heinz Wittenbecher" <heinz@bytedesigns.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Am I in the right place?
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 08:49:35 -0800
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Apologies if I'm not.
It wasn't quite clear in the Charter on whether DIY means only DIYers that
build from scratch or whether perhaps it includes folks like myself that
converted his GMC motorhome's 455 Olds to ported fuel injection that's using
the Accel ECU. I recently added an engine monitor with individual egt's etc
and will be adding theAccel VIC unit in the next few days. Obviously I'm a
newbie to efi and really just an amateur technician that enjoys his GMC.

It's a learn by doing program and every once in a while I'm stuck and find
myself looking for help. I.e. setting up the EFI in general (using Accel's
Calmap software in realtime), not so much for dragstrip performance but
maximun reliability with reasonal fuel economy and performance. The engine
monitor has a datalogging function and I expect to be using Excel or some
other program to monitor the engine over time to hopefully pre-empt
breakdowns without wasting time left on engine.

If I'm in the wrong place, my apologies in advance and if so I'll scoot outa
here. If I am in the right place  I'd like to ask whether any information is
available for the proper mixture setting using EGT's. I did search the
archives but was not able to draw any conclusion. In my airplane days we
used to go peak and then enrichen 50-75 degrees. Would the same apply or can
each cylinder be run closer to peak? With the VIC I expect to be able to
adjust each injector so that no compromised setting has to be used.

TIA - Heinz
'76 GMC Classic MH
www.bytedesigns.com/gmc



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 12:52:54 1999
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Subject: Vehicle stats database
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<<The point?  This is all just basic physics.  You have to know your weight
and gearing and guess pretty good at things like frontal area and drag
coeffiecient for this to be accurate.  If you've got a chassis dyno
plot to compare against, it's pretty easy to figure the unknowns in.>>

You know, the "Car Test" program has over 900 cars in it's database. It has the
gear ratios, test weight, coefficient of drag, and the surface frontal area. It
can be a good program to compare/contrast different vehicles and their
performance.

Examples:
          '98 Chevy Camaro SS
          3510 lb. test weight (w/ driver)
          .34 Coefficient of Drag
          22 sq.ft. Frontal Area

          '92 VW Corrado SLC
          3000 lb. test weight (w/ driver)
          .32 Coefficient of Drag
          19.4 sq.ft. Frontal Area

          '97 BMW M3 Dinan
          3440 lb. test weight (w/ driver)
          .32 Coefficient of Drag
          20.2 sq.ft. Frontal Area

Jason
'93 SLC



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 12:52:48 1999
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Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 12:52:54 -0500
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Am I in the right place?
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On Wed, 3 Mar 1999, Heinz Wittenbecher wrote:

> Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 08:49:35 -0800
> From: Heinz Wittenbecher <heinz@bytedesigns.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Am I in the right place?
> 
> Apologies if I'm not.

welcome, sound like you do belong

> 
> If I'm in the wrong place, my apologies in advance and if so I'll scoot outa
> here. If I am in the right place  I'd like to ask whether any information is
> available for the proper mixture setting using EGT's. I did search the
> archives but was not able to draw any conclusion. In my airplane days we
> used to go peak and then enrichen 50-75 degrees. 

cool a lean roll using egt's I'd be curious  about this too, might be a 
way to double check optimal a/f ratio. Do you remember what a/f ratio 
this produced?

>Would the same apply or can
> each cylinder be run closer to peak? With the VIC I expect to be able to
> adjust each injector so that no compromised setting has to be used.
> 
> TIA - Heinz
> '76 GMC Classic MH
> www.bytedesigns.com/gmc
> 
> 
> 

Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 13:01:38 1999
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You're in the right place...  GMECM and EFI332 have specific charters,
but diy_efi is open to just about any kind of engine management topic.

Heinz Wittenbecher wrote:
> 
> Apologies if I'm not.
> It wasn't quite clear in the Charter on whether DIY means only DIYers that
> build from scratch or whether perhaps it includes folks like myself that
> converted his GMC motorhome's 455 Olds to ported fuel injection that's using
> the Accel ECU. I recently added an engine monitor with individual egt's etc
> and will be adding theAccel VIC unit in the next few days. Obviously I'm a
> newbie to efi and really just an amateur technician that enjoys his GMC.
> 
> It's a learn by doing program and every once in a while I'm stuck and find
> myself looking for help. I.e. setting up the EFI in general (using Accel's
> Calmap software in realtime), not so much for dragstrip performance but
> maximun reliability with reasonal fuel economy and performance. The engine
> monitor has a datalogging function and I expect to be using Excel or some
> other program to monitor the engine over time to hopefully pre-empt
> breakdowns without wasting time left on engine.
> 
> If I'm in the wrong place, my apologies in advance and if so I'll scoot outa
> here. If I am in the right place  I'd like to ask whether any information is
> available for the proper mixture setting using EGT's. I did search the
> archives but was not able to draw any conclusion. In my airplane days we
> used to go peak and then enrichen 50-75 degrees. Would the same apply or can
> each cylinder be run closer to peak? With the VIC I expect to be able to
> adjust each injector so that no compromised setting has to be used.
> 
> TIA - Heinz
> '76 GMC Classic MH
> www.bytedesigns.com/gmc

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 13:03:29 1999
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Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 17:58:36 +0000
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> It wasn't quite clear in the Charter on whether DIY means only DIYers that
> build from scratch or whether perhaps it includes folks like myself that
> converted his GMC motorhome's 455 Olds to ported fuel injection that's using
> the Accel ECU. I recently added an engine monitor with individual egt's etc

Do it Yourself in this list just means that you are
attaching FI to something.  That's been my take anyway.  A
lot of folks are dissecting OEM ECMs, some are adapting them
to other things (Like me, adapting a Chebby TPI to a Mopar
431 stroker), and others are actually building circuits from
scratch, either with the EFI332 team project here, or a
seperate system of their choosing.  Still others run the
Accell, Haltech, Holley or Electromotive systems, and some
are still installing.

And some are lurkers, which is just fine too :)

> and will be adding theAccel VIC unit in the next few days. Obviously I'm a
> newbie to efi and really just an amateur technician that enjoys his GMC.

I think it was the Jeff Hartman book that had an EFI buildup
for a twin-turbo'd system for a GMC Motorhome.  I loaned
someone my book so I can't verify it... but I didn't see it
in my Corky Bell "Maximum Boost" book, so I'm pretty sure
its in the Fuel Injection book. You might want to spend a
few bucks (like 20) and check out the book... there's a lot
of good information, and as I said, one of the buildups is a
GMC motorhome, though the coverage is light to say the
least.

> available for the proper mixture setting using EGT's. I did search the

If the system is lean, EGT's are much higher normally.


-- 
Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

http://www.xephic.dynip.com
1993 Superchaged Lincoln Continental
1989 500cid Turbocharged HWMMV
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab (soon to be twin turbo 440)
2000 Buick GTP (twin turbo V6)

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 14:07:26 1999
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What is the simplest way to drive a set of ford V8 injectors from a
digital signal ? I want something readily available (not unobtanium
plated special parts) and inexpensive, that is simple to implement,
test, and repair if necessary

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 14:26:37 1999
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Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 19:21:34 +0000
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References: <006301be6595$d236ece0$ab6334d1@bytedesigns.com> <36DD784C.FDAE12AA@xephic.dynip.com> <36DD870C.42E7@ibm.net>
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> What is the simplest way to drive a set of ford V8 injectors from a
> digital signal ? I want something readily available (not unobtanium

A mosfet with a diode in parallel with the mosfet facing the
wrong way to protect it from coil voltage spikes.  That's if
your interface/computer circuit handles the hold function
via software.  If its through hardware, you need something
limilar to the LM1949 chip which does peak and hold very
nicely.

-- 
Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

http://www.xephic.dynip.com
1993 Superchaged Lincoln Continental
1989 500cid Turbocharged HWMMV
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab (soon to be twin turbo 440)
2000 Buick GTP (twin turbo V6)

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 14:59:11 1999
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Thank you for confirming I'm at the right place (among tinkerers).

>> In my airplane days we
>> used to go peak and then enrichen 50-75 degrees.
>
>cool a lean roll using egt's I'd be curious  about this too, might be a
>way to double check optimal a/f ratio. Do you remember what a/f ratio
>this produced?

No idea on actual a/f ratios.
It was used only at cruise power and altitude. Basically adjusting fuel
(manually) to the amount of air available at the particular altitude.

I guess my main concern is burning of valves, etc. if running too lean,
hence the question as to how close to peak is feasable to run without doing
damage.

My plan is to do some data logging for the first few hundred or perhaps
first 1000 miles on my next trip to get a baseline of egt and other temp
readings for the Accell settings that have been in use for the last 10k and
then to start playing with the VIC. Perhaps it'll explain itself, i.e. if
I'm running several hundred degrees from peak even getting it to within a
hundred should be an improvement and not likely to hurt anything.

I'll pass on what I find. In the meantime I'll be a happy lurker.

Heinz

<snip>



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 15:00:11 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: injector drivers
References: <006301be6595$d236ece0$ab6334d1@bytedesigns.com> <36DD784C.FDAE12AA@xephic.dynip.com> <36DD870C.42E7@ibm.net> <36DD8BBE.44B459CA@xephic.dynip.com>
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> A mosfet with a diode in parallel with the mosfet facing the
> wrong way to protect it from coil voltage spikes.  That's if
> your interface/computer circuit handles the hold function

I entirely said that backwards.

Drive the mosfet, with a reverse-biased diode in parallel.

There, that makes more sense!


-- 
Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

http://www.xephic.dynip.com
1993 Superchaged Lincoln Continental
1989 500cid Turbocharged HWMMV
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab (soon to be twin turbo 440)
2000 Buick GTP (twin turbo V6)

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 15:12:40 1999
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Subject: Re: injector drivers
References: <006301be6595$d236ece0$ab6334d1@bytedesigns.com> <36DD784C.FDAE12AA@xephic.dynip.com> <36DD870C.42E7@ibm.net>
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Sandy designed a driver board that is useful for injectors or ignition
coils for the efi332 project.  There are probably some spares floating
around...  It incorporates a 1949 for peak/hold functions but works OK
as a saturated type driver as well.

--steve

"Clarence L.Snyder" wrote:
> 
> What is the simplest way to drive a set of ford V8 injectors from a
> digital signal ? I want something readily available (not unobtanium
> plated special parts) and inexpensive, that is simple to implement,
> test, and repair if necessary

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 15:13:53 1999
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Ive been trying to unsubscibe this list.  I was wondering if someone
could use laymens terms and syntax for the steps in this proceedure.




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 15:45:50 1999
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From: "Van Setten, Tim (AZ75)" <Tim.Van.Setten@CAS.honeywell.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: injector drivers
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 13:39:21 -0700 
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> What is the simplest way to drive a set of ford V8 injectors from a
> digital signal ? I want something readily available (not unobtanium
> plated special parts) and inexpensive, that is simple to implement,
> test, and repair if necessary
> 
First, what kind of injectors are you trying to drive?  Low impedance, high
impedance,  throttle-body, port?  Are you going to batch fire, alternate
banks, etc.?  Need more input.
Tim.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 15:49:42 1999
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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 09:48:48 +1300
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Mike Morrin <mikem@southern.co.nz>
Subject: Ignition lead inductive pickups wanted
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Hi,

I need a supply of a quntity of clip-on inductive pickups, similar to those
used on ignition timing lights.  I need a quantity of around 50.

Has anyone seen these for sale anywhere?

regards,

Mike Morrin

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 15:51:40 1999
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From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Am I in the right place?
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On Wed, 3 Mar 1999, Heinz Wittenbecher wrote:

> Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 12:01:32 -0800
> From: Heinz Wittenbecher <heinz@bytedesigns.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: Am I in the right place?
> 
> Thank you for confirming I'm at the right place (among tinkerers).
> 
> >> In my airplane days we
> >> used to go peak and then enrichen 50-75 degrees.
> >
> >cool a lean roll using egt's I'd be curious  about this too, might be a
> >way to double check optimal a/f ratio. Do you remember what a/f ratio
> >this produced?
> 
> No idea on actual a/f ratios.
> It was used only at cruise power and altitude. Basically adjusting fuel
> (manually) to the amount of air available at the particular altitude.

I'd guess probly around 12:1 ( for peak power??)

> 
> I guess my main concern is burning of valves, etc. if running too lean,
> hence the question as to how close to peak is feasable to run without doing
> damage.

I've been worried about my tracker the exhaust manifold gets red hot 
( I noticed it after running out of wiper fluid at night

> 
> My plan is to do some data logging for the first few hundred or perhaps
> first 1000 miles on my next trip to get a baseline of egt and other temp
> readings for the Accell settings that have been in use for the last 10k and
> then to start playing with the VIC. Perhaps it'll explain itself, i.e. if
> I'm running several hundred degrees from peak even getting it to within a
> hundred should be an improvement and not likely to hurt anything.
> 
> I'll pass on what I find. In the meantime I'll be a happy lurker.

this is a good place to learn

> 
> Heinz
> 
> <snip>
> 
> 
> 

Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 15:56:34 1999
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References: <006301be6595$d236ece0$ab6334d1@bytedesigns.com> <36DD784C.FDAE12AA@xephic.dynip.com> <36DD870C.42E7@ibm.net>
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Clarence L.Snyder wrote:
> 
> What is the simplest way to drive a set of ford V8 injectors from a
> digital signal ? I want something readily available (not unobtanium
> plated special parts) and inexpensive, that is simple to implement,
> test, and repair if necessary

Per Gar, take a look at Cherry Semi CS-452, CS-453. 

Jack


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 16:18:36 1999
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Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 13:19:27 -0800 (PST)
From: andy quaas <realsquash@yahoo.com>
Subject: Electronic advance problems...
To: diy efi <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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this is long....

Someone contacted me with a problem that they are having with their
projection 4Di.  They have it tuned up on a 454 with a 1988
remote-coil HEI distributor.  It will run for 43 minutes (every time),
no matter if its idling or driving down the road.  They are also using
the ESC module and knock sensor.  They tried a 1980's big-cap
electronic advance HEI and it did the exact same thing.  They were
running with a vacuum-advance HEI and it ran just fine until they
swapped in the new one.  Here's the weird part-The holley has a
separate tach wire that you use if you have the vacuum advance
distributor that doesn't get used when you use the elec. dist.  After
the thing dies, they disconnect the 4-wire connector from the dist.
and isntall the tach wire onto the negative side of the coil.  The
thing starts right up.  They shut it off immidiately and reconnect the
4-wire connector and it runs for another 43 minutes.  

Any ideas?  I told them to nix the ESC and try it.  

Andy




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 17:20:39 1999
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From: "Kurek, Larry" <lkurek@anl.gov>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: What ECM is Better...
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 16:21:15 -0600 
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Guys:

By a stroke of pure bad luck, I have a spare ECM that I can either keep, or
turn in as a core ($50). However, I have two choices...I have a 746 ECM and
the 302 that I replaced. Both are good....which is better to keep for future
use :)

FWIW, I ended up replacing a perfectly good ECM when it ended up being a bad
coil :(  I had a guy help me (first mistake) by hooking a scope up to the
injector harness...I had no pulses, yet I *did* have them at the ECM from
the distributor reference signal. So...I figured the ECM was shot. I now
have a set of NOID lights to test this in the future :)

TTYL!

Larry

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 17:20:24 1999
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To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Combustion - Third Edition by Irwin Glassman
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 23:20:28 +0100
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Hi!
Please ,cant you give us some input on your way throu the book?
Maybe to much to ask for......
Espen Hilde



----------
> From: Robert Harris <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
> To: fanglers@xephic.dynip.com; diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Combustion - Third Edition by Irwin Glassman
> Date: 3. mars 1999 06:17
> 
> It's here.  It's mine -all mine.   No more Inter Library Loan.  It's all
mine.
> Go ahead - gloat - but I got the word from on high about all that is
needed to
> be known about combustion - at least a readable primary source by someone
who
> is referenced by everyone in all papers.  
> 
> All you ever wanted to know about combustion - de mything most folk lore
and
> explaining what actually happens.  Mine - all mine.   Unfair advantage -
I
> love It!!!!.
> 
> 	Clearly needing a life over enthusiastic bibliophile.
> 
> 1963 Ford C-600 Prison Bus Conversion "Home"
> 1971 Lincoln Continental 460 "Christine"
> 1972 "Whale" Mustang awaiting transplant
> 1978 Dodge Long Bed Peeek Up "Bundymobile"
> 
> Habaneros - not just for breakfast anymore

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 17:22:34 1999
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-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Harris <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, March 03, 1999 12:31 AM
Subject: Combustion - Third Edition by Irwin Glassman

So ya gonna gloat all day or share a little,
Bruce


>It's here.  It's mine -all mine.   No more Inter Library Loan.  It's all
mine.
>Go ahead - gloat - but I got the word from on high about all that is needed
to
>be known about combustion - at least a readable primary source by someone
who
>is referenced by everyone in all papers.
>
>All you ever wanted to know about combustion - de mything most folk lore
and
>explaining what actually happens.  Mine - all mine.   Unfair advantage - I
>love It!!!!.
>
> Clearly needing a life over enthusiastic bibliophile.
>
>1963 Ford C-600 Prison Bus Conversion "Home"
>1971 Lincoln Continental 460 "Christine"
>1972 "Whale" Mustang awaiting transplant
>1978 Dodge Long Bed Peeek Up "Bundymobile"
>
>Habaneros - not just for breakfast anymore
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 17:44:44 1999
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From: "Ward Spoonemore" <spoonie@deltanet.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Vehicle stats database
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 14:46:33 -0800
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This is a good idea jason, and you are correct according to Newton.
I would like to know the URL for this dbase ? EPA is a pain, and are light
trucks on the same dbase ?
Ward

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of
> Jason_Leone@amat.com
> Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 1999 9:45 AM
> To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Vehicle stats database
>
>
> <<The point?  This is all just basic physics.  You have to know
> your weight
> and gearing and guess pretty good at things like frontal area and drag
> coeffiecient for this to be accurate.  If you've got a chassis dyno
> plot to compare against, it's pretty easy to figure the unknowns in.>>
>
> You know, the "Car Test" program has over 900 cars in it's
> database. It has the
> gear ratios, test weight, coefficient of drag, and the surface
> frontal area. It
> can be a good program to compare/contrast different vehicles and their
> performance.
>
> Examples:
>           '98 Chevy Camaro SS
>           3510 lb. test weight (w/ driver)
>           .34 Coefficient of Drag
>           22 sq.ft. Frontal Area
>
>           '92 VW Corrado SLC
>           3000 lb. test weight (w/ driver)
>           .32 Coefficient of Drag
>           19.4 sq.ft. Frontal Area
>
>           '97 BMW M3 Dinan
>           3440 lb. test weight (w/ driver)
>           .32 Coefficient of Drag
>           20.2 sq.ft. Frontal Area
>
> Jason
> '93 SLC
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 18:00:48 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: What ECM is Better...
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 18:03:47 -0500
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If it's a $20 core I'd say keep em both.   Too much more, then no,
depends on what your local market drives
Bruce


>By a stroke of pure bad luck, I have a spare ECM that I can either keep, or
>turn in as a core ($50). However, I have two choices...I have a 746 ECM and
>the 302 that I replaced. Both are good....which is better to keep for
future
>use :)
>
>FWIW, I ended up replacing a perfectly good ECM when it ended up being a
bad
>coil :(  I had a guy help me (first mistake) by hooking a scope up to the
>injector harness...I had no pulses, yet I *did* have them at the ECM from
>the distributor reference signal. So...I figured the ECM was shot. I now
>have a set of NOID lights to test this in the future :)
>
>TTYL!
>
>Larry
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 18:08:07 1999
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> This is a good idea jason, and you are correct according to Newton.
> I would like to know the URL for this dbase ? EPA is a pain, and are light
> trucks on the same dbase ?
> Ward
> 	
http://www.epa.gov/oms/im.htm
about half way down page
I have heard there is a bigger state one maybe texas?
alex


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 18:29:54 1999
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<<Jason-
Please tell me what the "Car Test" program is, and where I can get the table.
TIA
-Mark>>

Mark,

I did a quick search on the web to find it, and you can download it from here:

http://www.miata.net/bin/cartst.exe

I have nothing to do w/ the above site or organization...so scan it for viruses
before you install it.
Car Test is an MSDOS based program, but runs in the Win95 DOS shell though. It
takes a bit to figure out the correct "F"
keys to use, but once you get the hang of it...it's easy. Spend an hour on it,
and you'll have a blast (well, if you enjoy a few beers at the same time, he
he).
It's pretty funny doing drag races or track laps (w/ a pace car).

Jason
'93 SLC



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 19:30:24 1999
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Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 19:29:54 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Padgett 0sirius <padgett@gdi.net>
Subject: Re: ALDL, again
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>  A slightly better
>version is also available on the web - a listee typed in a GM document
>describing lots of old C3 ALDL formats.  The URL is/was:
>  http://www.isthq.com/~dan/aldl.htm

Thank you, I have that but it does not give a reference to the *order* of
the data stream which will take several frames to discover (and my day job
keeps me pretty busy designing PKI and my wife's '90 Bonneville lost a cam
bearing and...). For instance the integrator counts is 128 which is a 080h.
Problem is there are two bytes in the data stream with that value. Not
rocket science, just needs to be done.
      	A. Padgett Peterson, P.E. Cybernetic Psychophysicist
 Anti-Virus, Cryptographics, & Antique Radio Researcher
http://www.freivald.org/~padgett/index.html
 mailto:padgett@gdi.net     PGP 5.5 Key on request


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 20:43:11 1999
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Home dyno page has a source, IIRC. If you can't find it
e-mail me and I'll dig out the URL.

Jack

Mike Morrin wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I need a supply of a quntity of clip-on inductive pickups, similar to those
> used on ignition timing lights.  I need a quantity of around 50.
> 
> Has anyone seen these for sale anywhere?


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 23:14:18 1999
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>You're in the right place...  GMECM and EFI332 have specific charters,
>but diy_efi is open to just about any kind of engine management topic.
>


How does a person get hooked into the GMECM list?

Thanks;
Walt.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 23:17:16 1999
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Subject: Re: Am I in the right place?
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Hi Steve:  Is the GMECM list going yet?  I really want to be on that if
possible.   Thanks.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: steve ravet <Steve.Ravet@arm.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, March 03, 1999 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: Am I in the right place?


>You're in the right place...  GMECM and EFI332 have specific charters,
>but diy_efi is open to just about any kind of engine management topic.
>
>Heinz Wittenbecher wrote:
>>
>> Apologies if I'm not.
>> It wasn't quite clear in the Charter on whether DIY means only DIYers
that
>> build from scratch or whether perhaps it includes folks like myself that
>> converted his GMC motorhome's 455 Olds to ported fuel injection that's
using
>> the Accel ECU. I recently added an engine monitor with individual egt's
etc
>> and will be adding theAccel VIC unit in the next few days. Obviously I'm
a
>> newbie to efi and really just an amateur technician that enjoys his GMC.
>>
>> It's a learn by doing program and every once in a while I'm stuck and
find
>> myself looking for help. I.e. setting up the EFI in general (using
Accel's
>> Calmap software in realtime), not so much for dragstrip performance but
>> maximun reliability with reasonal fuel economy and performance. The
engine
>> monitor has a datalogging function and I expect to be using Excel or some
>> other program to monitor the engine over time to hopefully pre-empt
>> breakdowns without wasting time left on engine.
>>
>> If I'm in the wrong place, my apologies in advance and if so I'll scoot
outa
>> here. If I am in the right place  I'd like to ask whether any information
is
>> available for the proper mixture setting using EGT's. I did search the
>> archives but was not able to draw any conclusion. In my airplane days we
>> used to go peak and then enrichen 50-75 degrees. Would the same apply or
can
>> each cylinder be run closer to peak? With the VIC I expect to be able to
>> adjust each injector so that no compromised setting has to be used.
>>
>> TIA - Heinz
>> '76 GMC Classic MH
>> www.bytedesigns.com/gmc
>
>--
>Steve Ravet
>steve.ravet@arm.com
>Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
>www.arm.com
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 23:53:47 1999
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Message-Id: <199903040453.UAA23955@gonzo.wolfenet.com>
Subject: I'm Back... (fwd)
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu (DIY EFI List)
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 20:53:44 -0800 (PST)
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This bounced to me:

> From: rr <RRauscher@nni.com>
> Reply-To: RRauscher@nni.com
> X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.04 (Win16; I)
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: I'm Back...
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> List members, I managed to climb back from the edge of the earth. Please
> note
> the change of email address. My new address is rrauscher@nni.com.
> Anything
> sent to my old address since Feb 19th, I have not read. (I've just found
> out
> that address is still valid, don't know why, but it is).

> Good to be back....

> BobR

> P.S. More to come.

> --



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  3 23:59:26 1999
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Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 23:59:18 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: David Piper <dapiper@one.net>
Subject: Dynojet for sale/lease
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Is there anybody out there?
Who wants a great performance tuning tool, that is.

This is Dynojet's model 248H chassis dyno with lube oil style hydraulic lift
suitable for above ground installations.  Includes computer, printer, latest
SW upgrade, tie downs and many spares.

Unit includes CDS data acquisition system which can measure any pressure,
temperature or flow on the engine simultaneously, while measuring HP and
torque.  For example; boost, fuel press and flow, EGT, exh back press,
turbine back press, intercooler in/out temps, Lambda (O2 sensor) and intk
charge temp and press.

Use the latest tool for quantifying the performance of aftermarket parts for
your customer's satisfaction.  Substantiate the impriovements of your ECU
chip reprogramming business.  Perform development work for race teams with
the official licensed dyno of NASCAR. 

Price is $10K and take over lease payments of $705/mo.  There are 24
payments remaining.  Relocation forces sale.

For info on the DynoJet, see dynojet.com web site or call anytime.

Contact:

David Piper
Days 518-233-2499
Eves 518-237-4780
dapiper@one.net 


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 01:39:13 1999
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Subject: More bounces...
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu (DIY EFI List),
        efi332@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu (EFI332)
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 22:39:11 -0800 (PST)
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Got to keep that s*bscribe word out of the first few lines...

> Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 23:48:29 +0000
> From: steve ravet <steve.ravet@arm.com>
> X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (WinNT; U)
> X-Accept-Language: en
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> To: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
>         "efi332@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu" <efi332@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Subject: GM ECM list is up and running
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> I've gotten a few questions about the GM ECM list.  It is UP and RUNNING
> right now.  To subscribe, send an email to

> majordomo@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

> In the body, put

> subcribe gmecm


> Simple as that!



> -- 
> Steve Ravet
> ARM, INC
> steve.ravet@arm.com
> www.arm.com


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 02:01:36 1999
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From: James Weiler <james@brc.ubc.ca>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: aluminum intake cosmetics
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Sorry about the non-EFI question but it's sort of related. I need some advice
on how to best preserve the good looks of a freshly glass beaded intake
manifold.  Alot of people are saying stay away from clear coat as it will
chip and flake off, supposedly it doesn't stick well to aluminum.  (?)
I've also been told about powder coating but was wondering if there were
any pros or cons to that too?

Should I just leave it alone?  Polishing would be ideal but I
refuse to spend a couple $100 over cosmetics (spend a whole day doing it
myself is ok however).
As usual any and all advice is much appreciated.
cheers,
jw

P.S. If anybody can give me any tips on how to polish in the tight areas
of an intake then I might try my hand at it.  I assume I need I die
grinder (will a dremmel drill do?) but don't know what I need for buffing
pads or where to get them.

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 05:21:02 1999
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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 02:22:56 -0800
From: Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
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Padgett 0sirius <padgett@gdi.net> wrote:
>
> >  http://www.isthq.com/~dan/aldl.htm
> 
> Thank you, I have that but it does not give a reference to the *order* of
> the data stream which will take several frames to discover.
> For instance the integrator counts is 128 which is a 080h.
> Problem is there are two bytes in the data stream with that value.

It _does_ list the order - bytes 1 through 25, in that order.

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 05:48:15 1999
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From: bob@bobthecomputerguy.com (Robert Harris)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, fanglers@xephic.dynip.com
Subject: Combustion Third Edition
Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 10:47:37 GMT
Organization: Bob - the Computer Guy
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First perusal thoughts

Its a primary reference work - filled with many I and we's, meaning the author
did a lot of primary research.   This is definitely not a Doctoral Thesis
survey work.

Next, its written in understandable english - not acabuerocratic gobbledegook
- another sure sign the author understands the material and is actually trying
to convey his thoughts to the reader.

Also, the math is mostly algebra - readily understandable and actually
sometimes useful.  How dare the author actually give the reader a chance to
understand it?

Starts out with a somewhat clear explanation of combustion related
thermodynamics and builds on it thru out the book.  

Breaks down the combustion process for hydrogen, nitrogen and most small
hydrocarbons.   Did you know that methane (cow farts) is a primary combustion
product along with ethane to a lesser extend and this is the primary unburned
hydrocarbons that the EPA and the Enviro-Whackos have their panties in a bunch
about.

Talks about phases of combustion.  Differences between homogeneous and
heterogenous combustion.  Goes into droplet burning.  

Actually tries to lead you into understanding what happens in the fire.  Very
little auto-specific content - but major understanding of what and why.

Will toss tidbits as I read further.  

1963 Ford C-600 Prison Bus Conversion "Home"
1971 Lincoln Continental 460 "Christine"
1972 "Whale" Mustang awaiting transplant
1978 Dodge Long Bed Peeek Up "Bundymobile"

Habaneros - not just for breakfast anymore

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 08:10:49 1999
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From: Daniel Houlton <houlster@user2.inficad.com>
Message-Id: <199903041310.GAA26756@user2.inficad.com>
Subject: How do AICs work?
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu (EFI )
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 06:10:45 -0700 (MST)
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I have some questions about some AIC/AFC (Additional Injector/Fuel
Controllers) I'm hoping maybe someone here can answer.  I understand the
basis for these in that you somehow measure how much extra fuel you need
either through the MAF or MAP and some other sensors of your stock ECM
(temp, TPS, etc) and inject the required extra fuel through 1 or 2 extra
injectors.  This is presumably without the stock ECM knowing or caring
about it.

I'm wondering how this can be.  I've turbo'd my 4 cyl engine and I've
measured the duty cycle of my injectors with an automotive multimeter
and found that they reach 100% duty cycle @ 9 psi @ 5000 rpm.  Now supposing
I added an AIC that injected the extra fuel the boost requires.  Forget 
for now how the AIC figures out how much it needs to inject, just that it
does.

The stock ECM though is still reading directly how much air the engine is
ingesting.  My ECM has shown to be capable of injecting the correct amount
of fuel under boost up until the duty cycle of the injectors is maxed out.
It reads the air mass from the MAF and dumps the correct amount of fuel
for it.  My mixture at WOT (*above 3000 rpm) stays rich all the way to 
5K.

With the AIC also dumping fuel to make up for the boost I end up with an
extremely rich mixture.  At 3/4 throttle, closed-loop mode this would be
fine.  But once I hit WOT, the computer switches to open-open loop.

It doesn't know that my AIC is injecting fuel as well, and it isn't watching
the O2 sensor to know that the mixture is going rich.  So my WOT mixture is
going to be way too rich and my stock injectors duty cycle is still going
to max out at 5000 rpm assuming of course it'll rev that high from choking
on all the fuel.

None of the AICs I've seen seem to make the stock ECM compensate in open-
loop for the extra fuel being injected.  It seems like the AIC would also
have to either intercept and massage the signals from various sensors 
before reaching the ECM, or intercept the signal to the stock injectors
and chop them off so they don't fire as long.

So why is this apparently not a problem?  What am I missing?


thanks
--Dan


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 08:17:13 1999
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From: "John Hess" <johnhess@cris.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Am I in the right place?
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 07:17:08 -0600
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et moi, ici!

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Romans <romans@pacbell.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, March 03, 1999 10:46 PM
Subject: Re: Am I in the right place?


>Hi Steve:  Is the GMECM list going yet?  I really want to be on that if
>possible.   Thanks.
>Mark
>-----Original Message-----
>From: steve ravet <Steve.Ravet@arm.com>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Wednesday, March 03, 1999 10:06 AM
>Subject: Re: Am I in the right place?
>
>
>>You're in the right place...  GMECM and EFI332 have specific charters,
>>but diy_efi is open to just about any kind of engine management topic.
>>
>>Heinz Wittenbecher wrote:
>>>
>>> Apologies if I'm not.
>>> It wasn't quite clear in the Charter on whether DIY means only DIYers
>that
>>> build from scratch or whether perhaps it includes folks like myself that
>>> converted his GMC motorhome's 455 Olds to ported fuel injection that's
>using
>>> the Accel ECU. I recently added an engine monitor with individual egt's
>etc
>>> and will be adding theAccel VIC unit in the next few days. Obviously I'm
>a
>>> newbie to efi and really just an amateur technician that enjoys his GMC.
>>>
>>> It's a learn by doing program and every once in a while I'm stuck and
>find
>>> myself looking for help. I.e. setting up the EFI in general (using
>Accel's
>>> Calmap software in realtime), not so much for dragstrip performance but
>>> maximun reliability with reasonal fuel economy and performance. The
>engine
>>> monitor has a datalogging function and I expect to be using Excel or
some
>>> other program to monitor the engine over time to hopefully pre-empt
>>> breakdowns without wasting time left on engine.
>>>
>>> If I'm in the wrong place, my apologies in advance and if so I'll scoot
>outa
>>> here. If I am in the right place  I'd like to ask whether any
information
>is
>>> available for the proper mixture setting using EGT's. I did search the
>>> archives but was not able to draw any conclusion. In my airplane days we
>>> used to go peak and then enrichen 50-75 degrees. Would the same apply or
>can
>>> each cylinder be run closer to peak? With the VIC I expect to be able to
>>> adjust each injector so that no compromised setting has to be used.
>>>
>>> TIA - Heinz
>>> '76 GMC Classic MH
>>> www.bytedesigns.com/gmc
>>
>>--
>>Steve Ravet
>>steve.ravet@arm.com
>>Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
>>www.arm.com
>>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 09:40:23 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Electronic advance problems...
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 08:40:20 -0600 
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Sounds to me like the HEI module is over heating. See if it has heat sink
grease on it, that would explain the 43 min time out.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	andy quaas [SMTP:realsquash@yahoo.com]
> Sent:	Wednesday, March 03, 1999 3:19 PM
> To:	diy efi
> Subject:	Electronic advance problems...
> 
> this is long....
> 
> Someone contacted me with a problem that they are having with their
> projection 4Di.  They have it tuned up on a 454 with a 1988
> remote-coil HEI distributor.  It will run for 43 minutes (every time),
> no matter if its idling or driving down the road.  They are also using
> the ESC module and knock sensor.  They tried a 1980's big-cap
> electronic advance HEI and it did the exact same thing.  They were
> running with a vacuum-advance HEI and it ran just fine until they
> swapped in the new one.  Here's the weird part-The holley has a
> separate tach wire that you use if you have the vacuum advance
> distributor that doesn't get used when you use the elec. dist.  After
> the thing dies, they disconnect the 4-wire connector from the dist.
> and isntall the tach wire onto the negative side of the coil.  The
> thing starts right up.  They shut it off immidiately and reconnect the
> 4-wire connector and it runs for another 43 minutes.  
> 
> Any ideas?  I told them to nix the ESC and try it.  
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 09:46:43 1999
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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 14:41:53 +0000
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
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> Should I just leave it alone?  Polishing would be ideal but I
> refuse to spend a couple $100 over cosmetics (spend a whole day doing it
> myself is ok however).

Sandblast the manifold first... which will cost you 10-20
bucks depending on the machine shop, if you don't have a
sand blaster yourself.  My machine shop showed me aluminum
paint, which is a primer and a paint all in one... they have
it in black, silver, and red, and purchase it for 5 bucks a
can.  I looked at the can, and its generic, however they
said they get it from a local body shop.

Not a great lead, but maybe a well-equipped auto store can
turn you into the right direction.  Powder coating I think
would be acceptable, but I've never tried.  let me know how
you make out, because I'll be ready to paint my aluminum
Edelbrock in a few days!  I'll do the reverse too


-- 
Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

http://www.xephic.dynip.com
1993 Superchaged Lincoln Continental
1989 500cid Turbocharged HWMMV
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab (soon to be twin turbo 440)
2000 Buick GTP (twin turbo V6)

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 09:53:54 1999
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This is interesting, as I sent this message to the list. I checked the
archives and it's not there! Some others received the message as I got
a response from them. O'well.

BobR

>This bounced to me:
>
>> From: rr <RRauscher@nni.com>
>> Reply-To: RRauscher@nni.com
>> X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.04 (Win16; I)
>> MIME-Version: 1.0
>> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>> Subject: I'm Back...
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>>
>> List members, I managed to climb back from the edge of the earth. Please
>> note
>> the change of email address. My new address is rrauscher@nni.com.
>> Anything
>> sent to my old address since Feb 19th, I have not read. (I've just found
>> out
>> that address is still valid, don't know why, but it is).
>>
>> Good to be back....
>>
>> BobR

--



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 10:27:35 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Check again,  I found it.
Depending on what's going on with the big machine.  Might not be till much
later, or even days for the list to be up to date.  There have been times
when the archives have been down for days.
Bruce


>This is interesting, as I sent this message to the list. I checked the
>archives and it's not there! Some others received the message as I got
>a response from them. O'well.
>
>BobR
>
>>This bounced to me:
>>
>>> From: rr <RRauscher@nni.com>
>>> Reply-To: RRauscher@nni.com
>>> X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.04 (Win16; I)
>>> MIME-Version: 1.0
>>> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>>> Subject: I'm Back...
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>>>
>>> List members, I managed to climb back from the edge of the earth. Please
>>> note
>>> the change of email address. My new address is rrauscher@nni.com.
>>> Anything
>>> sent to my old address since Feb 19th, I have not read. (I've just found
>>> out
>>> that address is still valid, don't know why, but it is).
>>>
>>> Good to be back....
>>>
>>> BobR
>
>--
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 10:30:43 1999
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From: "soren" <soren@rio.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: How do AICs work?
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>It doesn't know that my AIC is injecting fuel as well, and it isn't
watching
>the O2 sensor to know that the mixture is going rich.  So my WOT mixture is
>going to be way too rich and my stock injectors duty cycle is still going
>to max out at 5000 rpm assuming of course it'll rev that high from choking
>on all the fuel.


>So why is this apparently not a problem?  What am I missing?


    Have the controller kick on under boost instead of WOT, say maybe at 6
psi right before your factory injectors max out.  Then just wick up the
boost until it is no longer slobbering rich.

Soren Rounds



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 10:35:00 1999
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Sorry if this isn't diy_efi related, but I have a question regarding
timing on a 5.0L HO 84 T/A.  The timing tab on the timing cover is
gone (replaced it with a new one due to a leaky seal).  How do I set
the correct timing without a tab indicator?  Will access to diacom
help?  Thanks

Carmine

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 10:38:45 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: aluminum intake cosmetics
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>> Should I just leave it alone?  Polishing would be ideal but I
>> refuse to spend a couple $100 over cosmetics (spend a whole day doing it
>> myself is ok however).
>
>Sandblast the manifold first... which will cost you 10-20
>bucks depending on the machine shop, if you don't have a
>sand blaster yourself.  My machine shop showed me aluminum
>paint, which is a primer and a paint all in one... they have
>it in black, silver, and red, and purchase it for 5 bucks a
>can.  I looked at the can, and its generic, however they
>said they get it from a local body shop.
>
>Not a great lead, but maybe a well-equipped auto store can
>turn you into the right direction.  Powder coating I think
>would be acceptable, but I've never tried.  let me know how
>you make out, because I'll be ready to paint my aluminum
>Edelbrock in a few days!  I'll do the reverse too

Send them to HPC guys---have them coated inside and out--look good, and
help performance too!

Regards, Greg
>
>
>--
>Frederic Breitwieser
>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>
>http://www.xephic.dynip.com
>1993 Superchaged Lincoln Continental
>1989 500cid Turbocharged HWMMV
>1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab (soon to be twin turbo 440)
>2000 Buick GTP (twin turbo V6)



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 10:53:53 1999
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From: Jemison Richard <JemisonR@tce.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 07:10:44 -0500 
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Test.  I'm just trying to see if my internet access is suspended.  Sorry for
the inconvenience.  No need to reply to this.



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 11:05:04 1999
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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 09:09:18 -0700 (MST)
From: Terrill Yuhas <tyuhas@mail.arl.arizona.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: MPFI and SFI
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I was looking at options when it comes time to replace my GM MPFI V6.  The
newer versions of this V6 are SFI so a couple of thoughts came to mind
(clearing out the cobwebs).  I also checked in the archives for some extra
info on the topic but essentially:

- From my understanding, SFI engines use a cam sensor to tell the ECM
where in the firing order it is so it sounds like most of the differences
are in the ECM.  Working on that (weak) theory, if one year the engine is
batch and the next it's sequential, you could drop in the sequential motor
and run it as MPFI?

- If I read this right in the archives, SFI is more of a driveability
enhancement than a "power adder" so if it produces 180hp SFI, then it
should produce the same batch-fired?

Just trying to get my EFI myths and legends straight!

Also, if George Dailey is still on the list I'd appreciate to hearing on
how his almost similar swap went about two years ago.  There wasn't a
"closure" post in the archives so I don't know if it ended in utter
failure or not.

Thanks,

Terrill


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 11:14:22 1999
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 4 Mar 1999 10:14:18 CDT
Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 10:03:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: aluminum intake cosmetics
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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-> Sandblast the manifold first... which will cost you 10-20
-> bucks depending on the machine shop, if you don't have a

 For $50 or so you can buy an inexpensive siphon feed sandblaster, and
then you'll have it for the next project.  Of course, you'll need a
compressor, but you probably wanted one anyway.  Then a nice garage to
keep the sandblaster and compressor in... hmm, might be better to just
have someone else do it.

==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?
=================================== http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm
                                                                                                              

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 12:19:16 1999
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To: Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net>
cc: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: aluminum intake cosmetics
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Who or what are they?  Got a 1-800 number or a web page?
thanks,
jw


On Thu, 4 Mar 1999, Greg Hermann wrote:

> Send them to HPC guys---have them coated inside and out--look good, and
> help performance too!
> 
> Regards, Greg
> >

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 13:07:38 1999
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>Who or what are they?  Got a 1-800 number or a web page?
>thanks,
>jw

High Performance Coatings--Salt Lake City, Okie City. Do not have number
handy, Let me know if 1-800 info cannot get it for you.

They do headers, pistons, manifolds, chambers, ports, you name it. (Several
different types of coatings.)

Greg
>
>
>On Thu, 4 Mar 1999, Greg Hermann wrote:
>
>> Send them to HPC guys---have them coated inside and out--look good, and
>> help performance too!
>>
>> Regards, Greg
>> >



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 13:19:50 1999
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Subject: Re: Holley 4D1
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 13:22:48 -0500 (EST)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <19990302214020.7949.rocketmail@send102.yahoomail.com> from "andy quaas" at Mar 2, 99 01:40:20 pm
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> 
> I had a 900cfm 4Di.  I just bought another one sunday.  They are great
> for power and tuneability.  I don't know about emmisions, but they
> should be just fine if tuned properly.  The injectors fire
> sequentially.  Yes, all 4.  One injector fires, then the next, and so
> on.


how tunable is this
also what approx cost are they going for used
I have a unique use for 1 
can you control which injector fires in which order or do they just cycle
around in a circle ( I guess I could switch wires around to get the firing order
I wanted)

Clive 

>
 
> Andy
> 
> 
> ---"Eric J. Lilleness" <eric.j.lilleness@boeing.com> wrote:
> >
> > I'm considering a Holley 4Di for a moderately built Ford 460, about
> 475 HP.
> > 
> > My main goal is passing emissions, but I would also like some of the
> other
> > features of EFI, such as not hitting 2500 RPM when I cold-start the
> damn thing
> > at 0530 to go to work.......
> > 
> > As an FYI, I had a shop to the actual motor R&R, but picked all the
> components
> > myself, as well as porting the heads, so feel free to send questions
> on big
> > Fords my way.
> > 
> > Questions:
> > 
> > (1) How will emissions on a Holley 4Di equipped engine compare to a
> factory EFI? 
> > 
> > (2) Is there a way to insure that (as an example) the front right
> injector
> > will always be the injector that fires during the #1 cylinder's
> intake stroke?
> > This would seem to require that the ECU "knows" what cylinder each
> ignition
> > pulse is intended for.
> >  
> > (3) If the answer to the above is "no", will emissions be about the
> same as, 
> > or worse than batch-fired port injection? 
> >  
> > (4) Is the timing of the injector firing progammable in a manner
> similar to 
> > ignition advance varying as a function of RPM? 
> >  
> > (5) Iv'e heard a few love/hate stories on Holley EFI; but how are
> their
> > current products, especially the 4Di?
> > 
> > 		Thanks, Eric
> > 
> 
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 13:36:19 1999
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From: "Falb, John" <John.Falb@Unisys.Com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net>
Subject: RE: aluminum intake cosmetics
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 12:36:09 -0600 
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also try
http://www.goracing.com/techline/cat-4.html

clear protective coating

-----Original Message-----
From: James Weiler [mailto:james@brc.ubc.ca]

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 13:53:56 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: "DIY_EFI" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Handheld O-Scope
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 13:56:56 -0500
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Just saw an ad for one in MCM flyer

Handheld O-Scope 5 Hz    $199
(800) 543-4330
Just passing this along
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 13:56:29 1999
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From: Jemison Richard <JemisonR@tce.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: aluminum intake cosmetics
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 13:54:02 -0500 
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Hi James.

I happen to have a lot of experience with home grown polishing.  You can
make yourself a polishing rig out of a dryer motor, a 2 x 12 (I clamp my
setup to the workbench - that way I can remove it when I'm not polishing), 2
- 2inch x 1/8" pieces of angle iron 20-24" long, 2 pillow block bearings
with 1/2 - 3/4" dia inside dia and a bar of steel (I'd suggest about 24 -28"
long).   

To make a long story short - basically you need to find someone with a lathe
to turn down the ends down to about 1/2" and thread the ends for you.    The
shaft goes through the bearings (which are bolted to the angle iron and
therefore the board.  The angle iron needs 4 slots (I made mine about 3
inches long each and used 7/16" hardware - so the slot needs to be 7/16" or
a smiggin' larger).  This allows adjustment for the fan belt that connects
the motor to the shaft.  Then you need (forgot to list 2 pulleys) - actually
I've got 4  - 2", 3", 4" and 6" which gives me a lot of different ratios.
Basically though I use 2 and 2   and 2 and 4 the most so 3 pulleys would get
you by.   

Buffs - I use 6" x 1/2", 8" x 1/2",  with widths of 1/2" and 1".   I use
almost exclusively spiral sewn cotton buffs.  I get what I want with them
and it saves me money.  I also mix compounds on the same buff - AHhhhh!
Yea, if you're independently wealthy then go a buff for each compound - I
can't afford it and I get the results I want (at least on aluminum and
stainless steel).  

Compounds, I use emery (the coarsest), stainless compound, tripoli, white
and red jeweler's rouge.   Over time I've whittled this down to stainless,
white and red.    I use emery for really terrible looking motorcycle cases.
cleans them up fast so I can get moving.

For your intake manifolds though - you need more.   I have a electric die
grinder (about 14" long and weighs about 3-4 pounds).  Sucker gets heavy as
you use it.   You use a mandrel and cotton cone buffs with this thing.   I
use white rouge and jewelers with this thing.  Anything coarser leaves a
finish that doesn't match the coloring I get with the other wheels (this
thing turns very fast).  You have to use this to get down in all those
little places.  Believe it or not, I do not have to use this anywhere to
polish the cases of any motorcycle case I've ever done.   Can do it all with
6" buffs!  So you picked a tough piece to learn on.

Hope it helps.  BTW, once you get the hang of it - it should take about 3
hours to have that intake manifold looking perfect!   Like a mirror!

I'm actually working on an article on how to make one of these setups on my
web page http://www.geocities.com/Pipeline/Dropzone/8979 but just haven't
quite got it done!   It should be out there in a month or so though.

rick

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	James Weiler [SMTP:james@brc.ubc.ca]
> Sent:	Thursday, March 04, 1999 2:01 AM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	aluminum intake cosmetics
> 
> 
> Sorry about the non-EFI question but it's sort of related. I need some
> advice
> on how to best preserve the good looks of a freshly glass beaded intake
> manifold.  Alot of people are saying stay away from clear coat as it will
> chip and flake off, supposedly it doesn't stick well to aluminum.  (?)
> I've also been told about powder coating but was wondering if there were
> any pros or cons to that too?
> 
> Should I just leave it alone?  Polishing would be ideal but I
> refuse to spend a couple $100 over cosmetics (spend a whole day doing it
> myself is ok however).
> As usual any and all advice is much appreciated.
> cheers,
> jw
> 
> P.S. If anybody can give me any tips on how to polish in the tight areas
> of an intake then I might try my hand at it.  I assume I need I die
> grinder (will a dremmel drill do?) but don't know what I need for buffing
> pads or where to get them.

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 14:37:55 1999
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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 14:39:40 -0500
From: Ken Kelly <kenkelly@lucent.com>
Organization: Lucent Technologies
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Subject: Re: aluminum intake cosmetics
References: <591429.7.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us>
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Dave,
	You were going down the right road. Why did you quit. I've
been traveling down that road for 30 years, and the end
isn't in site. I however, only have to finish the siding on
my new 5 car garage.

		Ken

Dave Williams wrote:
> 
> -> Sandblast the manifold first... which will cost you 10-20
> -> bucks depending on the machine shop, if you don't have a
> 
>  For $50 or so you can buy an inexpensive siphon feed sandblaster, and
> then you'll have it for the next project.  Of course, you'll need a
> compressor, but you probably wanted one anyway.  Then a nice garage to
> keep the sandblaster and compressor in... hmm, might be better to just
> have someone else do it.
> 
> ==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
> I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
> my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?
> =================================== http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm
>

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 14:46:23 1999
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From: James Weiler <james@brc.ubc.ca>
X-Sender: james@koala
To: Ken Kelly <kenkelly@lucent.com>
cc: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: aluminum intake cosmetics
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I think we should start a new mailing list that centers around flaming 
people with 5 car garages.  :)
Your the kind of guy I could grow to hate 
pretty fast.  Lucky bastard :)

cheers,
jw



On Thu, 4 Mar 1999, Ken Kelly wrote:

> Dave,
> 	You were going down the right road. Why did you quit. I've
> been traveling down that road for 30 years, and the end
> isn't in site. I however, only have to finish the siding on
> my new 5 car garage.
> 
> 		Ken
> 
> Dave Williams wrote:
> > 
> > -> Sandblast the manifold first... which will cost you 10-20
> > -> bucks depending on the machine shop, if you don't have a
> > 
> >  For $50 or so you can buy an inexpensive siphon feed sandblaster, and
> > then you'll have it for the next project.  Of course, you'll need a
> > compressor, but you probably wanted one anyway.  Then a nice garage to
> > keep the sandblaster and compressor in... hmm, might be better to just
> > have someone else do it.
> > 
> > ==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
> > I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
> > my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?
> > =================================== http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm
> >
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 15:33:27 1999
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Date: Thu, 04 Mar 1999 15:35:08 -0500
From: Ken Kelly <kenkelly@lucent.com>
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Subject: Re: aluminum intake cosmetics
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James,
	Not luck - Perseverence. I've been collecting for 30 years
- I'm in my 50's, and I pounded every last nail in the
thing. I carried every shingle up the ladder and nailed it
in place. Never give up. Even an old Fart like me can do it.
I even put in 11 foot ceilings. After I finish the garage I
will save for a lift. I responded to the original post
because it was going my way. I always buy the tool rather
than paying for labor. In the long run it pays. I may have
skinned a few knuckles, and had a few sprains, but the tools
go in my collection and I'll have them forever.

		Ken

James Weiler wrote:
> 
> I think we should start a new mailing list that centers around flaming
> people with 5 car garages.  :)
> Your the kind of guy I could grow to hate
> pretty fast.  Lucky bastard :)
> 
> cheers,
> jw
> 
> On Thu, 4 Mar 1999, Ken Kelly wrote:
> 
> > Dave,
> >       You were going down the right road. Why did you quit. I've
> > been traveling down that road for 30 years, and the end
> > isn't in site. I however, only have to finish the siding on
> > my new 5 car garage.
> >
> >               Ken
> >
> > Dave Williams wrote:
> > >
> > > -> Sandblast the manifold first... which will cost you 10-20
> > > -> bucks depending on the machine shop, if you don't have a
> > >
> > >  For $50 or so you can buy an inexpensive siphon feed sandblaster, and
> > > then you'll have it for the next project.  Of course, you'll need a
> > > compressor, but you probably wanted one anyway.  Then a nice garage to
> > > keep the sandblaster and compressor in... hmm, might be better to just
> > > have someone else do it.
> > >
> > > ==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
> > > I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
> > > my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?
> > > =================================== http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm
> > >
> >

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 15:59:09 1999
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> thing. I carried every shingle up the ladder and nailed it
> in place. Never give up. Even an old Fart like me can do it.
> I even put in 11 foot ceilings. After I finish the garage I
> will save for a lift. I responded to the original post

That's way kewl Ken, nice job!

As far as a lift goes, a friend of mine (well, aquantence
really) created a bridge crane by building his 3 car garage
with two I-Beams across the top of the cinder blocks on the
back and the front, and created an I-Beam pair of cross
pieces with large steel wheels.  This piece slides left and
right across the garage, and has a piece in the center that
moves across those movable I-Beams, so the crane can be
positioned where he wants.  He has a manual chain lift which
is pretty neat too.. he said the crane took many, many
weekends to build, and cost him about 2500 for all the
materials.

When I buy a house, I will be copying his design, it came
out really slick.

> skinned a few knuckles, and had a few sprains, but the tools
> go in my collection and I'll have them forever.

This is very true.  Unfortunately for me, I have a one car
garage, and having a place to PUT the tools is a big
problem!  I need to move, like, tomorrow.


-- 
Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

http://www.xephic.dynip.com
1993 Superchaged Lincoln Continental
1989 500cid Turbocharged HWMMV
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab (soon to be twin turbo 440)
2000 Buick GTP (twin turbo V6)

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 16:28:19 1999
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From: andy quaas <realsquash@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Holley 4D1
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The fuel, spark, and knock are completely programmable.  The fuel map
has 64 x 64 resolution.  Up to 41.8 degrees of ignition advance (can't
remember the resolution, but at least 10 x 10).  You can download the
software at my website (www.genevaonline.com/~efi/files/eev21. exe or
zip).  There is a map for acceleration and such, cold-start
compensation, and other little things (oxy trig, idle, etc).  Used I
would say around $600-800.  The injectors do fire in a circle.  There
are in fact 4 drivers in the ECM.

andy

---Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020
<clive@problem.tantech.com> wrote:
> how tunable is this
> also what approx cost are they going for used
> I have a unique use for 1 
> can you control which injector fires in which order or do they just
cycle
> around in a circle ( I guess I could switch wires around to get the
firing order
> I wanted)
> 
> Clive 
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Ya also tend to learn a couple things on the way, least for me that seems
true.
Bruce

> I always buy the tool rather
>than paying for labor. In the long run it pays. I may have
>skinned a few knuckles, and had a few sprains, but the tools
>go in my collection and I'll have them forever.
> Ken



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 16:42:18 1999
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Go to www.eastwoodco.com for all your polishing needs.

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 16:45:03 1999
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> I need to move, like, tomorrow.
> 
You mean , like YESTERDAY, Fred.

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On Thu, 4 Mar 1999, Ken Kelly wrote:

> James,
> 	Not luck - Perseverence. I've been collecting for 30 years
> - I'm in my 50's, and I pounded every last nail in the
> thing. I carried every shingle up the ladder and nailed it
> in place. Never give up. Even an old Fart like me can do it.
> I even put in 11 foot ceilings. After I finish the garage I
> will save for a lift. I responded to the original post
> because it was going my way. I always buy the tool rather
> than paying for labor. In the long run it pays. I may have
> skinned a few knuckles, and had a few sprains, but the tools
> go in my collection and I'll have them forever.
> 
Unless there is a divorce in your future...



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> You mean , like YESTERDAY, Fred.

Same thing, more or less LOL.

Actually, to move, I have too much stuff now.  First, the
jeep project has to go.  Its only taking a month longer than
it was supposed to.


-- 
Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

http://www.xephic.dynip.com
1993 Superchaged Lincoln Continental
1989 500cid Turbocharged HWMMV
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab (soon to be twin turbo 440)
2000 Buick GTP (twin turbo V6)

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 18:06:49 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: MPFI and SFI
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-----Original Message-----
From: Terrill Yuhas <tyuhas@mail.arl.arizona.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, March 04, 1999 11:20 AM
Subject: MPFI and SFI

Your terms are so general that I'm lost at what you mean.  Do you want to
change ecms, or
cars?.  If ecms what do you have?.
Bruce


>I was looking at options when it comes time to replace my GM MPFI V6.  The
>newer versions of this V6 are SFI so a couple of thoughts came to mind
>(clearing out the cobwebs).  I also checked in the archives for some extra
>info on the topic but essentially:
>
>- From my understanding, SFI engines use a cam sensor to tell the ECM
>where in the firing order it is so it sounds like most of the differences
>are in the ECM.  Working on that (weak) theory, if one year the engine is
>batch and the next it's sequential, you could drop in the sequential motor
>and run it as MPFI?
>
>- If I read this right in the archives, SFI is more of a driveability
>enhancement than a "power adder" so if it produces 180hp SFI, then it
>should produce the same batch-fired?
>
>Just trying to get my EFI myths and legends straight!
>
>Also, if George Dailey is still on the list I'd appreciate to hearing on
>how his almost similar swap went about two years ago.  There wasn't a
>"closure" post in the archives so I don't know if it ended in utter
>failure or not.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Terrill
>


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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: "DIY_EFI" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Dwell control vs timing control
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 18:25:18 -0500
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gm specific
I been thinking way to much on this, but, I'll stick my head out again, and
say
what your reading in the prom is timing corrections, and the stuff for being
a cylinder late in the computations.
  If the dwell controll, was in the prom, then disconnecting the distributor
from
the ecm would stop the engine from running.  So the dwell control is in the
module.
  So every thing in the prom would look the same from Dissy to DIS.  Just
a matter of when the timing starts, as set by est signal.
Thoughts anyone?.
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 18:56:04 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: "DIY_EFI" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 93+ gm truck ecms
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anyone know any details on the vss signal to the ecm?.
They read off of a buffer amplifier.
Bruce



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 19:24:33 1999
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In a message dated 3/4/99 6:24:52 PM Eastern Standard Time, nacelp@bright.net
writes:

> gm specific
>  I been thinking way to much on this, but, I'll stick my head out again, and
>  say
>  what your reading in the prom is timing corrections, and the stuff for
being
>  a cylinder late in the computations.
>    If the dwell controll, was in the prom, then disconnecting the
distributor
>  from
>  the ecm would stop the engine from running.  So the dwell control is in the
>  module.
>    So every thing in the prom would look the same from Dissy to DIS.  Just
>  a matter of when the timing starts, as set by est signal.
>  Thoughts anyone?.
>  Bruce
>  

According to the P4 Document, the module controls dwell in EST BYPSS mode, and
the ECM controls dwell in EST mode.  I know this is how Ford does it too,
according to some books I've read.  Also, you can see the dwell in the EST
signal, and the GM EST signal looks just like the Ford SPOUT signal that I've
seen in some books...Dwell control and all.  In short, based on everything
I've read and seen, I am about 99% certain that the ECM controls dwell under
NORMAL operating conditions.

But you are absolutely right that the EST signal for a DIS and a Dissy are
identical, it is just the TIMING that is off.
When I use the Dissy prom with my DIS, every thing is about 60 degrees too far
advanced.  What I don't understand is why when I changed the KREANGL (Spark
Reference Angle) in the SyTy .bin, absolutely NOTHING happens.
According to the P4 Document, KREFANGL is subtracted from the total timing
computed by the ECM.  This should fix the problem but it doesn't.  I can
detect no changes in spark angle no matter what value I put in there.  It
seems to have no effect whatsoever.

I guess this is why someone simply inverted the Reference Pulse  Because there
is no other way I can find to bring the timing back to where it should be.
There should be no reason to invert the EST signal.  It's the Reference Pulse
that is off.  If you get the ECM to read the Rising Edge instead of the
Falling edge (by inverting the signal) then everything should work alot
better.  Maybe still a few degrees off, but not 60 degrees off!

In short, Bruce, you were right that the solution is to invert the signal
(Reference Pulse).  I just wanted to try a few things in the Prom first, but
nothing worked.

Which brings me to a question:  How do you build a circuit that inverts a
signal? :)

Ted


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 20:32:52 1999
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From: "David Sagers" <dls2867@hotmail.com>
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Subject: GN/Ttype List
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Back in message #129 or there abouts, someone mentioned the GN/Ttype 
list.  Where do I find that list?

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 21:09:59 1999
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-----Original Message-----
From: David Sagers <dls2867@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, March 04, 1999 8:43 PM
Subject: GN/Ttype List

Should find it off of   http://www.gnttype.org
Bruce


>Back in message #129 or there abouts, someone mentioned the GN/Ttype 
>list.  Where do I find that list?
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 21:36:45 1999
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From: "Ward Spoonemore" <spoonie@deltanet.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Dwell control vs timing control
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 18:37:14 -0800
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The ECM controlled dwell and compensates to spark latency when the bypass is
connected, when bypass is open, or just starting up, dwell is controlled by
the Distributor module, (or spark module in direct ignition systems).

Some small anoint of spark advance is generated in the "open" bypass mode,
about 6-8 degrees.
Ward


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
[mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of
Tedscj@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 1999 4:23 PM
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Dwell control vs timing control


In a message dated 3/4/99 6:24:52 PM Eastern Standard Time,
nacelp@bright.net
writes:

> gm specific
>  I been thinking way to much on this, but, I'll stick my head out again,
and
>  say
>  what your reading in the prom is timing corrections, and the stuff for
being
>  a cylinder late in the computations.
>    If the dwell controll, was in the prom, then disconnecting the
distributor
>  from
>  the ecm would stop the engine from running.  So the dwell control is in
the
>  module.
>    So every thing in the prom would look the same from Dissy to DIS.  Just
>  a matter of when the timing starts, as set by est signal.
>  Thoughts anyone?.
>  Bruce
>

According to the P4 Document, the module controls dwell in EST BYPSS mode,
and
the ECM controls dwell in EST mode.  I know this is how Ford does it too,
according to some books I've read.  Also, you can see the dwell in the EST
signal, and the GM EST signal looks just like the Ford SPOUT signal that
I've
seen in some books...Dwell control and all.  In short, based on everything
I've read and seen, I am about 99% certain that the ECM controls dwell under
NORMAL operating conditions.

But you are absolutely right that the EST signal for a DIS and a Dissy are
identical, it is just the TIMING that is off.
When I use the Dissy prom with my DIS, every thing is about 60 degrees too
far
advanced.  What I don't understand is why when I changed the KREANGL (Spark
Reference Angle) in the SyTy .bin, absolutely NOTHING happens.
According to the P4 Document, KREFANGL is subtracted from the total timing
computed by the ECM.  This should fix the problem but it doesn't.  I can
detect no changes in spark angle no matter what value I put in there.  It
seems to have no effect whatsoever.

I guess this is why someone simply inverted the Reference Pulse  Because
there
is no other way I can find to bring the timing back to where it should be.
There should be no reason to invert the EST signal.  It's the Reference
Pulse
that is off.  If you get the ECM to read the Rising Edge instead of the
Falling edge (by inverting the signal) then everything should work alot
better.  Maybe still a few degrees off, but not 60 degrees off!

In short, Bruce, you were right that the solution is to invert the signal
(Reference Pulse).  I just wanted to try a few things in the Prom first, but
nothing worked.

Which brings me to a question:  How do you build a circuit that inverts a
signal? :)

Ted


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 22:18:59 1999
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Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 22:18:02 -0800
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Okay, what am I missing here?  Every time I send a message to
"Majordomo....."  it kicks it back.  I've tried various combinations, but to
no avail.  Exactly what syntax should I use for the title, and message body?

Thanks;
Walt.




-----Original Message-----
From: Orin Eman <orin@WOLFENET.com>
To: DIY EFI List <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>; EFI332
<efi332@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, March 04, 1999 12:05 AM
Subject: More bounces...


>Got to keep that s*bscribe word out of the first few lines...
>
>> Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 23:48:29 +0000
>> From: steve ravet <steve.ravet@arm.com>
>> X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (WinNT; U)
>> X-Accept-Language: en
>> MIME-Version: 1.0
>> To: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu"
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
>>         "efi332@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu"
<efi332@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>> Subject: GM ECM list is up and running
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
>> I've gotten a few questions about the GM ECM list.  It is UP and RUNNING
>> right now.  To subscribe, send an email to
>
>> majordomo@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>
>> In the body, put
>
>> subcribe gmecm
>
>
>> Simple as that!
>
>
>
>> --
>> Steve Ravet
>> ARM, INC
>> steve.ravet@arm.com
>> www.arm.com


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 23:02:07 1999
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Falb, John wrote:

> also try
> http://www.goracing.com/techline/cat-4.html
>
> clear protective coating

I used TechLine ceramics on my pistons, etc. recommend them.. Get an old
electric oven... & follow the instructions            Tom S


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Once i found a diagram of a sand blaster that you can build from an old
propane tank. If I am lucky enough to find it I will post the site.
    
    Pedro

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------  


>Dave,
>	You were going down the right road. Why did you quit. I've
>been traveling down that road for 30 years, and the end
>isn't in site. I however, only have to finish the siding on
>my new 5 car garage.
>
>		Ken
>
>Dave Williams wrote:
>> 
>> -> Sandblast the manifold first... which will cost you 10-20
>> -> bucks depending on the machine shop, if you don't have a
>> 
>>  For $50 or so you can buy an inexpensive siphon feed sandblaster, and
>> then you'll have it for the next project.  Of course, you'll need a
>> compressor, but you probably wanted one anyway.  Then a nice garage to
>> keep the sandblaster and compressor in... hmm, might be better to just
>> have someone else do it.
>> 
>> ==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
>> I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
>> my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?
>> =================================== http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm
>>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 23:40:15 1999
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From: Daniel Houlton <houlster@user2.inficad.com>
Message-Id: <199903050439.VAA08370@user2.inficad.com>
Subject: Re: How do AICs work?
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 21:39:46 -0700 (MST)
In-Reply-To: <001c01be6653$d085c920$6c7889d0@soren> from "soren" at Mar 04, 1999 07:29:36 AM
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soren wrote:
> 
> Dan H. wrote:
> >It doesn't know that my AIC is injecting fuel as well, and it isn't
> watching
> >the O2 sensor to know that the mixture is going rich.  So my WOT mixture is
> >going to be way too rich and my stock injectors duty cycle is still going
> >to max out at 5000 rpm assuming of course it'll rev that high from choking
> >on all the fuel.
> 
> >So why is this apparently not a problem?  What am I missing?
> 
> 
>     Have the controller kick on under boost instead of WOT, say maybe at 6
> psi right before your factory injectors max out.  Then just wick up the
> boost until it is no longer slobbering rich.
> 
> Soren Rounds


But that doesn't do anything about preventing the stock injectors from
maxing out.  They'll still hit 100% duty cycle and stay there for the
duration of max boost.  I know realisticaly that's only going to be a
few seconds, but isn't this extremely bad for them?  I thought exceeding
the 80% duty cycle very often or for very long burns them out in a hurry.

Also, what about the ECM?  What are the chances that it freaks out when
the injectors hit 100%?  Does it not care or will it assume something has
failed and go to fail safe mode?  

I ask this because it happened last week.  I had to slow way down for a
car turning in front of me.  After I got by, I nailed it but was in a
pretty low gear.  RPMs went to redline in a hurry and boost hit I think
about 9 psi.  It happened pretty fast and I wasn't watching carefully
enough.  Immediately after, my truck started coughing and sputtering,
barely running.  The engine light started flashing.

I was paranoid I blew a head gasket or something.  I pulled over and shut
down.  After a few minutes of checking under the hood and not finding
anything obvious I tried to restart.  It started and ran fine (so did my
heart BTW).  

When I got home, I checked the codes and there were two of them, both 
indicating faulty injectors(s).  I figured out it had gone into failsafe
mode.  I tested by pulling the MAF connector to force it into failsafe
and sure enough, it coughed and sputtered and ran just like it had on the
road.

I know now that the injectors max out at 9 psi and 5K rpm and I'm sure
I exceeded that.  How likely is it that the ECM switched to failsafe
because of this?

I'm beginning to think I will have to intercept the MAF signal and alter
it no matter how I do the extra fueling.  Neither additional injectors 
or a rising rate FPR by themselves will prevent the stock injectors from
hitting 100%.  Even intercepting the signal to the injectors to prevent
it from happening won't work because the ECM will still *think* they're
at 100%.

If I need to intercept and modify the MAF signal anyways, then I'd much
rather swap to larger injectors than run the rising rate FPR or plumb in
additional injectors.  It's much cleaner I think, doesn't have any bad
sides that I can see (so long as I don't go so big it won't idle) and 
it's much more stealthy.  I'll have a much better chance of sliding this
whole thing by the smog police if I don't have a huge regulator or extra
fuel lines and injectors running everywhere.

Any insight is appreciated.  

thanks
--Dan

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 23:42:58 1999
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From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: aluminum intake cosmetics
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On Fri, 5 Mar 1999, Pedro Haynes wrote:

> 
> Once i found a diagram of a sand blaster that you can build from an old
> propane tank. If I am lucky enough to find it I will post the site.
>     
A sandblast cabinet can be made from plywood, K3 board etc and will last a
long time if you do not sandblast the cabinet directly. Sears used to sell
a cheapo sandblaster that can be easily converted to use in the cabinet.
These units came with steel nozzles, but ceramic were available from Sears
for a reasonable  price [this was a few years ago...] Cheap, but
effective... Sand is pretty cheap by the sack. I usually used 20-30 for
sheet metal, cast iron or whatever. Glass beads are a lot more money and
often are a waste of time IMO. When the sand gets dirty, rounded off, etc
it stops working. At the price of sand, you can afford to dump it. Keep
the sand dry...




From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  4 23:47:47 1999
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From: Daniel Houlton <houlster@user2.inficad.com>
Message-Id: <199903050447.VAA08505@user2.inficad.com>
Subject: Re: Handheld O-Scope
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 21:47:41 -0700 (MST)
In-Reply-To: <024801be6670$c6ec5560$23633acf@nacelp> from "Bruce Plecan" at Mar 04, 1999 01:56:56 PM
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> Just saw an ad for one in MCM flyer
> 
> Handheld O-Scope 5 Hz    $199
> (800) 543-4330

How much use is this?  I don't know much about them other than the higher
the frequency, the higher the cost.  What's the minimum we should be looking
for to do EFI type stuff or just general circuit building?  Is this one
good enough to be useful or will it rapidly show it's limitations?  I've
seen 20, 30, 60 and up to 100 Hz scopes.  How much is really needed?

--Dan

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 00:01:02 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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-----Original Message-----
From: Daniel Houlton <houlster@user2.inficad.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, March 04, 1999 11:56 PM
Subject: Re: Handheld O-Scope

Please correct that to read 5Mhz
I've been told 20Mhz is more than enough for automotive use, but I'm still
getting up to speed
Bruce


>Bruce Plecan wrote:
>> Just saw an ad for one in MCM flyer
>> Handheld O-Scope 5 Hz    $199
>> (800) 543-4330
>How much use is this?  I don't know much about them other than the higher
>the frequency, the higher the cost.  What's the minimum we should be
looking
>for to do EFI type stuff or just general circuit building?  Is this one
>good enough to be useful or will it rapidly show it's limitations?  I've
>seen 20, 30, 60 and up to 100 Hz scopes.  How much is really needed?
>--Dan



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 00:01:33 1999
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From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Handheld O-Scope
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On Thu, 4 Mar 1999, Daniel Houlton wrote:

> Bruce Plecan wrote:
> > 
> > Just saw an ad for one in MCM flyer
> > 
> > Handheld O-Scope 5 Hz    $199
> > (800) 543-4330
> 
> How much use is this?  I don't know much about them other than the higher
> the frequency, the higher the cost.  What's the minimum we should be looking
> for to do EFI type stuff or just general circuit building?  Is this one
> good enough to be useful or will it rapidly show it's limitations?  I've
> seen 20, 30, 60 and up to 100 Hz scopes.  How much is really needed?
> 

You mean Mhz scopes.  From what I know, 1Mhz would be fine for all
automotive work, that is so long as you don't mess with the internals
of the computer, then you probably need 20Mhz-100Mhz+ depending on the
clock rate of the computer you are dealing with.  Most automotive
inputs are pretty low frequency, in fact so low that .5Mhz may be
enough for auto work.

				Roger


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 00:09:26 1999
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Subject: Re: Dwell control vs timing control
References: <039d01be6696$4510a980$23633acf@nacelp>
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My understanding of GM's dwell control is that it is in the distributor.
The module measures the coil drive current, once the current reaches
a certain level, the drive is reduced to maintain that level. It would
be
difficult for the ECM to control the max current level through the coil.
The 'ole Kettering systems used a ballest resistor to limit the max
current.

Let's see, Motorola has something on this, hang on a minute...
Weeelll, longer than a minute, but here it is:

"High Energy Ignition Circuits": MC3334P/MCC3334/MCCF3334, in the Linear
and Interface Circuits databook.

Typically peaks at 5.5Amps and holds there until coil fires. For some
reason,
I thought that this is the chip GM uses in their HEI modules. (This is
kinda
like the peak & hold injector drivers, except that the current is held
at max,
not ramped down at hold).

Even the off state duration is controlled to allow full coil discharge.

HTH

BobR

P.S.  Further reading, just before sending this, states (in the
databook),
that this device is designed to serve aftermarket Delco five terminal
ignition applications...

Hmmm, does make you wonder what GM is really doing in the seven terminal
distributors. (I can see some bench work to get the scoop on this one).

>gm specific
>I been thinking way to much on this, but, I'll stick my head out again, and
>say
>what your reading in the prom is timing corrections, and the stuff for being
>a cylinder late in the computations.
>  If the dwell controll, was in the prom, then disconnecting the distributor
>from
>the ecm would stop the engine from running.  So the dwell control is in the
>module.
>  So every thing in the prom would look the same from Dissy to DIS.  Just
>a matter of when the timing starts, as set by est signal.
>Thoughts anyone?.
>Bruce

--


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 00:13:42 1999
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From: Daniel Houlton <houlster@user2.inficad.com>
Message-Id: <199903050513.WAA09050@user2.inficad.com>
Subject: Voltage controller?
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu (EFI )
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 22:13:29 -0700 (MST)
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Hi.  Me again.  Sorry, but I've got more questions.  For my turbo, I don't
yet have an intercooler and don't know when I will.  In the meantime, I've
planned on building a water injection system using basically a boost
pressurized tank and a couple pumps to provide a pressure differential to
inject water after the turbo.

Instead though, it's very likely that I'll be getting an ERL AquaMist from
a friend to try out.  This is the $500 job I think.  Uses a high pressure
magnetic/diaphram pump or something.  I won't be getting the controller 
they sell for it, just the basic system.

I'm pretty sure I read on their page that the pump pressure is controlled
by a 0 - 12V signal.  It could be it's just driven by 0 - 12V, but I
thought it was a seperate signal.  Power is through a seperate 12V 
supply.  Maybe not though.  This is how their controller controlls it.
How would I produce this signal from a MAP sensor?

Say I get a 2 Bar sensor.  These are linear from 0 - 5V representing
vacuum - ~15 psi (over ambient) right?  Now if the MAP sensor put out 0 - 12V
instead and the pump took a 0 - 5V signal, I could just use a pot and
direct connect the sensor to the pump.  I need to go the other way though.
I need to step up the 0-5V MAP signal to a 0 - 12V signal for the pump.

Any suggestions how to do it?  What about if instead of a 0 - 12V signal
I need a 0 - 12V power (presumably much higher amps than the MAP can
supply) source?  What I need is something like a 30 amp relay that can
supply a variable voltage instead of full voltage or none.  I'm sure 
something like this exists, but I'm (obviously) not an EE so I don't know
what to look for.

Oooh!  What about an "electronic" pot?  Something that can control
resistance from a voltage signal instead of physically turning a dial?  I
could then provide full, high amp voltage to the pump through a relay and
run it through this "electronic" pot.  The pot would adjust the resistance
according to the MAP output.  Map signal goes up signalling pot resistance
to go down and the pump gets more voltage resulting in higher water 
pressure.

A seperate Hobbs switch could control the relay to arm the system at 
whatever boost pressure I want.  Is this totally off the wall or is it
doable?

thanks
--Dan

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 01:26:25 1999
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From: "soren" <soren@rio.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: How do AICs work?
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 22:25:10 -0800
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>If I need to intercept and modify the MAF signal anyways, then I'd much
>rather swap to larger injectors than run the rising rate FPR or plumb in
>additional injectors.  It's much cleaner I think, doesn't have any bad
>sides that I can see (so long as I don't go so big it won't idle) and
>it's much more stealthy.  I'll have a much better chance of sliding this
>whole thing by the smog police if I don't have a huge regulator or extra
>fuel lines and injectors running everywhere.
>
>Any insight is appreciated.


    I definitely agree that larger injectors are the way to go depending on
your budget.  The lack of extra plumbing is definitely a plus.  However, if
the ECM is reacting to the extra boost and going to 100% duty cycle on the
stock injectors but cannot react to the change in fuel mixture caused by an
additional injector (because it is in open loop), how could it react to the
change in fuel mixture caused by the larger injectors when the ECM commanded
100% d.c.(again in open-loop)?  It appears to me as if they would be similar
in actual function.

Soren Rounds



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 01:35:18 1999
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From: "Ward Spoonemore" <spoonie@deltanet.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: More bounces...
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 22:35:45 -0800
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-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
[mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Walter
Sherwin
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 1999 10:18 PM
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: More bounces...


Okay, what am I missing here?  Every time I send a message to
"Majordomo....."  it kicks it back.  I've tried various combinations, but to
no avail.  Exactly what syntax should I use for the title, and message body?

Thanks;
Walt.




-----Original Message-----
From: Orin Eman <orin@WOLFENET.com>
To: DIY EFI List <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>; EFI332
<efi332@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, March 04, 1999 12:05 AM
Subject: More bounces...


>Got to keep that s*bscribe word out of the first few lines...
>
>> Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 23:48:29 +0000
>> From: steve ravet <steve.ravet@arm.com>
>> X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (WinNT; U)
>> X-Accept-Language: en
>> MIME-Version: 1.0
>> To: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu"
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
>>         "efi332@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu"
<efi332@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>> Subject: GM ECM list is up and running
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
>> I've gotten a few questions about the GM ECM list.  It is UP and RUNNING
>> right now.  To subscribe, send an email to
>
>> majordomo@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>
>> In the body, put
>
>> subcribe gmecm
>
>
>> Simple as that!
>
>
>
>> --
>> Steve Ravet
>> ARM, INC
>> steve.ravet@arm.com
>> www.arm.com


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 01:39:17 1999
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From: "Ward Spoonemore" <spoonie@deltanet.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: ALDL, again
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 22:39:41 -0800
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Check out http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/9938/
Ward

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
[mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of
ECMnut@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 1999 7:44 PM
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: ALDL, again


Allow me;
 GMC Syclone ECM, 1227749, 8192 baud, BC code is AYBM-4052
I have the same .
HTH  Mike V

> Most likely you are unaware that GM has around a hundred different diag
data
>  standards, There are four different data xmission standards, including
OBD
>  II. perhaps is you stated your needs ..... ECM P/N, and or broadcast code
>  ...
>  Ward
>
>  -----Original Message-----
>  From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>  [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Barry
>  Tisdale
>  Sent: Monday, March 01, 1999 7:23 PM
>  To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>  Subject: ALDL, again
>
>
>  Still working on the ALDL / PC thing.  I've gotten *several* copies of
the
>  GM paper on the diagnostic link; all are probably from the same source,
way
>  back when, as they all contain the same typos and inaccuracies.
>
>  Has anyone actually 'decoded' the actual data, i.e., converted the raw
data
>  into meaningful information?  Some of the calcs given in the GM paper are
>  just plain wrong.  Lots of data acronyms have no references elsewhere in
the
>  paper; I can only guess @ what's intended.  Some are obvious, many are
>  cryptic.
>
>  Anybody gone through this?  I'd like to help / collaborate w/ anyone on
>  this; hardware to get the data from ALDL to COM port is easy, works well.
>  Software to capture & log the data doesn't require a genius (after all, I
>  did it in QuickBasic).  Trouble is, "what do it all mean..."?
>
>  Any help *very* gladly accepted - thanks - Barry
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 02:24:29 1999
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From: Marc Piccioni <mpiccioni@attcanada.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: aluminum intake cosmetics
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 19:34:54 -0700
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try getting the manifold clear anodized, the final appearance looks like magnesium - a light gray.

----------
From: 	James Weiler[SMTP:james@brc.ubc.ca]
Sent: 	March 3, 1999 4:00 PM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	aluminum intake cosmetics


Sorry about the non-EFI question but it's sort of related. I need some advice
on how to best preserve the good looks of a freshly glass beaded intake
manifold.  Alot of people are saying stay away from clear coat as it will
chip and flake off, supposedly it doesn't stick well to aluminum.  (?)
I've also been told about powder coating but was wondering if there were
any pros or cons to that too?

Should I just leave it alone?  Polishing would be ideal but I
refuse to spend a couple $100 over cosmetics (spend a whole day doing it
myself is ok however).
As usual any and all advice is much appreciated.
cheers,
jw

P.S. If anybody can give me any tips on how to polish in the tight areas
of an intake then I might try my hand at it.  I assume I need I die
grinder (will a dremmel drill do?) but don't know what I need for buffing
pads or where to get them.


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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 02:24:36 1999
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From: Marc Piccioni <mpiccioni@attcanada.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Timing
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 00:03:17 -0700
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Get a book titled basic cams and exhaust at any speed shop and read the 
procedure to find TDC, then fabricate a replacement point to indicate TDC 
and install a timing tape on the OD of the balancer.

----------
From: 	Carmine Nicoletta[SMTP:carmine@ibmoto.com]
Sent: 	March 4, 1999 8:34 AM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Timing

Sorry if this isn't diy_efi related, but I have a question regarding
timing on a 5.0L HO 84 T/A.  The timing tab on the timing cover is
gone (replaced it with a new one due to a leaky seal).  How do I set
the correct timing without a tab indicator?  Will access to diacom
help?  Thanks

Carmine



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0```%````4D4Z( ````"V3@`'
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end


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 07:34:48 1999
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From: Niinikoski Juha <juha.niinikoski@mikrolog.fi>
To: "'DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 4L80E / ALDL
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 14:44:45 +0200 
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Hi
I am new on the list and don't know if this is right place to start 4L80E
TCM thread ?

I have 97 N/A diesel Hummer with 4L80E electronic transmission. Some time
ago I decided to try to build a display unit with what you can watch few
most critical transmission parameters like temperature TCC slippage and
possible clutch slippage. So far I have managed to hack ALDL interface and
protocol. Of course this happened by the hard way. First I taught that
Hummer 97 Implementation where OBD-II because of OBD-II like connector but
it is ALDL 8192.

I have build couple of display prototypes. One with Motorola HC12 CPU and
4x40 LCD display.HC12 contains also 8-channell A/D converter. I have plan to
include some other measurements too.  Second one is really cheap build with
Microchip PIC16F84 "washing machine" processor and 2x20 LCD. If anybody is
interested I can provide more information about my projects.


Where I need help.
1.
 I am now stuck with decoding parameters what TCM provides. I have found
most easy / evident ones like RPMs, temperature, selector switches etc. Most
of the response data is still unknown for me. Do anyone have documents or
more information about 4L80E ALDL commands / responses ?

2.
What is the right way to start communication with TCM. I have figured out
that read parameters command is F5 57 01 00 B3 but you need to give command
twice first time. After ALDL bus have "woken up" you need only one command
to get response. If you do not issue new commands within about one second
bus goes to sleep mode again. Are there some sort of wake up procedure or is
this (sending first command two times) right way to do it ?

Juha Niinikoski
Espoo Finland
97 N/A Diesel Hummer


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 08:16:44 1999
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SFI at 6000RPM is 30CPS, ganged injectors (double fire) is 60CPS. That's
.06 Khz. Ford MAPs run something around 300Hz. I'd say a 5mhz should be
lots. The handhelds are nice, but like a scope-meter the display is
puny. Better to find one of the older diagnostic scopes (can't remember
the make, but I used to have one) that ran off the car battery for
in-shop use. There were several occaisions where it rode in the
passenger's seat with me in the back and the apprentice driving so I
could find out what was going on on the road.

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 08:27:34 1999
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Use a voltage to grequency conversion, then have the frequency output
drive a 555 oneshot. By tuning both the frequency output and the pulse
width you pwm control the pump.
I'm no engineer either, but both circuits are bretty simple. Could
likely use 555 for both stages, or even run one as a monostable with the
MAP connected to the control terminal - would give you roughly 2:1 ratio
range?

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 08:29:46 1999
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Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 07:27:39 -0600
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Subject: EEC Report
Cc: Andrew March <amarch@icenet.com.au>,
        Auburn Performance Equipment <GoAPE@tiac.net>,
        Eric Goehl <shftmstr@ultranet.com>
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As the list ole-timers know, I was a member of this list for a long
time  ..... but, I started a list dedicated specifically to the Ford
EEC-IV and "herding" the list has monopolized my "spare" time.


I have checked back in to report that we've been quite successful
(perhaps this has already been reported here ???   don't know).

The current status:

  . there is now source code for many eecs -- and some of those have
been partially disassembled

  . the engine control data parameters have (mostly) been identified
and found in memory

  . there are now at least three products available that will allow you
to take advantage of your EEC (here they are, in the order of their
"release" / introduction to the EEC list):

  1 - Andy's EECSUCKA PCB board allows reading the memory from any eec-iv
(cost, about $25 for bare PCB .... group buy now in progress, if you're
interested) ....  Andrew March <amarch@icenet.com.au>

	http://www.icenet.com.au/~amarch/eec.htm


  2 - Matt Happy at Auburn Performance Equipment has introduced his
product called the "SpeedBrain", which replaces the '87-'95 (I'm not
certain of the exact years) Mustang MAF EFI.  This is what most
folks are converting to when they do mods -- but, it leaves out
those who have the E4OD tranny.  Auburn Performance Equipment <GoAPE@tiac.net>

	http://www.tiac.net/users/goape/sb.htm


  3 - Eric Goehl <shftmstr@ultranet.com> has just completed an EEC
"adaptor board".  This is what the elusive "calibrator" was to have
been.  It plugs into your existing EEC computer (err, cornfuzer on
the BB list  ;-)   ...... and allows you to examine the memory and
to change any and all control parameters -- or to even substitute
a totally new / different program if you're clever enough !
  .... the beauty of this is it allows you to control _ANY_ eec-iv
on any vehicle (by saying eec-iv, I've excluded eec-v which, I think,
is on '96 and later trucks).  The disadvantage to Eric's unit is
the software exists but is not as good as we or Eric want it to
be, so it is still being worked on .... expect some really cool stuff
once the guys on the eec list get tired of arguing about which "platform"
to use   ;-)

	http://www.eec-tuner.com/


 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

cost of these units is (approximation only here .... I'm working with
a 'faded' cranial cornfuzer

  1 - eecsucka .... about $25  ..... but, it's purchase is complicated
by Andy being down under and there's a problem with converting to
Aussie funny-money  ;-)

  2 - SB costs about $700.

  3 - eec tuner from Eric is about $300 (once again, very reasonable
for what you get -- esp considering what it'd cost you to do it yourself).


Finally, if anyone is interested in the technical side of the EEC,
consider joining the EEC list  .....  and there is information posted
at various www and ftp sites.  Write me for info.


Tom Cloud <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 08:55:01 1999
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U> se a voltage to grequency conversion, then have the frequency output
> drive a 555 oneshot. By tuning both the frequency output and the pulse
> width you pwm control the pump.
> I'm no engineer either, but both circuits are bretty simple. Could
> likely use 555 for both stages, or even run one as a monostable with the
> MAP connected to the control terminal - would give you roughly 2:1 ratio
> range?
> 
Just thought of a possibly simpler method. Use a FORD MAP, which is a
variable frequency output, and run the one-shot off of it.

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 09:29:05 1999
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From: "Jim Yeagley" <jimyeagley@stratos.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: aluminum intake cosmetics
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 08:09:55 -0500
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About the sandblasters:

I seem to remember a while back buying a blaster for around $25 or $30 from
an auto body supply house.  It looked like the head of a paint gun, without
the cup, and had replaceable ceramic venturis.  The tube coming out of the
bottom where the cup would normally be simply had a hose attached, the other
end had another tube that could be shoved into the top of a bag of sand.
Attach air at the base of the handle and you're done.  The cabinet mentioned
before would be perfect to use with this gun, with some cheapo lexan panel
to view through.   The whole thing could probably be built for less than
$60.

But didn't the original post state that the intake was already blasted?  If
you want to powdercoat it, get the $99 kit from eastwood.  I think it's
eastwood.com, but you can surely get there from myclassiccar.com.  You need
around 10 psi air and a cheapo oven, and pretty soon you'll be coating all
kinds of parts for you and your buddies, and paying for the setup in no
time.  Anything you can fit into an oven can be done, including brackets,
alternator bodies, exhaust manifolds, mufflers, etc.

Like someone else already said, he buys the tools instead of paying the
labor, and I'd wager HPC would be charging more than $100 to coat your
intake.

Jim Yeagley
1996 Dodge Indy Ram
See it and many others at: www.indyram.org
1975 Pontiac Grandville Brougham Conv. (in baskets)
webmaster@indyram.org
jimyeagley@stratos.net




From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 09:52:11 1999
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From: Daniel Houlton <houlster@user2.inficad.com>
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Subject: Re: How do AICs work?
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 07:52:06 -0700 (MST)
In-Reply-To: <006301be66d0$ed542ce0$6c7889d0@soren> from "soren" at Mar 04, 1999 10:25:10 PM
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soren wrote:
> 
> >If I need to intercept and modify the MAF signal anyways, then I'd much
> >rather swap to larger injectors than run the rising rate FPR or plumb in
> >additional injectors.  It's much cleaner I think, doesn't have any bad
> >sides that I can see (so long as I don't go so big it won't idle) and
> >it's much more stealthy.  I'll have a much better chance of sliding this
> >whole thing by the smog police if I don't have a huge regulator or extra
> >fuel lines and injectors running everywhere.
> >
> >Any insight is appreciated.
> 
> 
>     I definitely agree that larger injectors are the way to go depending on
> your budget.  The lack of extra plumbing is definitely a plus.  However, if
> the ECM is reacting to the extra boost and going to 100% duty cycle on the
> stock injectors but cannot react to the change in fuel mixture caused by an
> additional injector (because it is in open loop), how could it react to the
> change in fuel mixture caused by the larger injectors when the ECM commanded
> 100% d.c.(again in open-loop)?  It appears to me as if they would be similar
> in actual function.
> 
> Soren Rounds


Regardless of how the extra fuel is added, the idea is to keep the ECM from 
commanding 100% d.c. by intercepting the MAF signal, changing (reducing) it,
and then passing it on to the ECM.  How much to reduce it is the tricky part
as the MAF output is not linear to the airflow through it.

In the case of the addition injector or higher fuel pressure, I'd have to 
figure houw much to reduce the MAF signal based on how much extra fuel the 
higher pressure or extra injectors will dump.  i.e. if the extra injectors are
dumping 30% of the total fuel, the MAF signal to the ECM would have to be 
reduced enough such that the ECM injects 30% less fuel.

With larger injectors that flow say 50% more fuel than stock, the MAF signal
would need to be reduced enough so that the ECM would inject only 66% of the
fuel it would of from the un-modified signal.

When it's in open-loop WOT, it reads the MAF directly and squirts an appropriate
amount of fuel.  The extra fuel from having larger injectors is offset by a
shorter pulsewidth (and therefore duty cycle) commanded by the ECM from seeing
a lower signal from the MAF.


--Dan

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 10:08:42 1999
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Dan,

If you wanted to convert the 5v MAP to a 12v signal, relative, use an
op-amp. Just use an amp with a gain of 2.4 (12 / 5). Use this in the
non-inverting configuration. The only problem with this is head-room,
most amps won't go to the plus rail.

A better approach might be PWM. Look in the 'incoming' directory for
the files: PWM2.gif  and PWM2.txt (not sure of the exact case).

These are the circuit diagram and writeup for a PWM controller that
can be used with any permanent magnet DC motor. This circuit can
be driven from the MAP with only an Op-amp buffer at the front end.

For more op-amp stuff (ideas), get ahold of a National Semi Linear
databook, or hit their web site for app notes. They have a ton of
stuff on practical uses of op-amps. (AN-20 & AN-31 are good ones).

BobR.

P.S. The files FprErr.gif & .txt also have some novel uses of op-amps.


Daniel Houlton wrote:
> 
> Hi.  Me again.  Sorry, but I've got more questions.  For my turbo, I don't
> yet have an intercooler and don't know when I will.  In the meantime, I've
> planned on building a water injection system using basically a boost
> pressurized tank and a couple pumps to provide a pressure differential to
> inject water after the turbo.
> 
> Instead though, it's very likely that I'll be getting an ERL AquaMist from
> a friend to try out.  This is the $500 job I think.  Uses a high pressure
> magnetic/diaphram pump or something.  I won't be getting the controller
> they sell for it, just the basic system.
> 
> I'm pretty sure I read on their page that the pump pressure is controlled
> by a 0 - 12V signal.  It could be it's just driven by 0 - 12V, but I
> thought it was a seperate signal.  Power is through a seperate 12V
> supply.  Maybe not though.  This is how their controller controlls it.
> How would I produce this signal from a MAP sensor?
> 
> Say I get a 2 Bar sensor.  These are linear from 0 - 5V representing
> vacuum - ~15 psi (over ambient) right?  Now if the MAP sensor put out 0 - 12V
> instead and the pump took a 0 - 5V signal, I could just use a pot and
> direct connect the sensor to the pump.  I need to go the other way though.
> I need to step up the 0-5V MAP signal to a 0 - 12V signal for the pump.
> 
> Any suggestions how to do it?  What about if instead of a 0 - 12V signal
> I need a 0 - 12V power (presumably much higher amps than the MAP can
> supply) source?  What I need is something like a 30 amp relay that can
> supply a variable voltage instead of full voltage or none.  I'm sure
> something like this exists, but I'm (obviously) not an EE so I don't know
> what to look for.
> 
> Oooh!  What about an "electronic" pot?  Something that can control
> resistance from a voltage signal instead of physically turning a dial?  I
> could then provide full, high amp voltage to the pump through a relay and
> run it through this "electronic" pot.  The pot would adjust the resistance
> according to the MAP output.  Map signal goes up signalling pot resistance
> to go down and the pump gets more voltage resulting in higher water
> pressure.
> 
> A seperate Hobbs switch could control the relay to arm the system at
> whatever boost pressure I want.  Is this totally off the wall or is it
> doable?
> 
> thanks
> --Dan


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 10:12:08 1999
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From: Jemison Richard <JemisonR@tce.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: aluminum intake cosmetics
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 10:09:45 -0500 
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Jim,

FWIW, I have one of these and it worked but not all that great.  And I had a
big compressor pushing it.   I got my job done but really had to work to get
it - took forever.   Haven't touched it since.  My son has it if he hasn't
pitched it!

rick

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Jim Yeagley [SMTP:jimyeagley@stratos.net]
> Sent:	Friday, March 05, 1999 8:10 AM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: aluminum intake cosmetics
> 
> About the sandblasters:
> 
> I seem to remember a while back buying a blaster for around $25 or $30
> from
> an auto body supply house.  It looked like the head of a paint gun,
> without
> the cup, and had replaceable ceramic venturis.  The tube coming out of the
> bottom where the cup would normally be simply had a hose attached, the
> other
> end had another tube that could be shoved into the top of a bag of sand.
> Attach air at the base of the handle and you're done.  The cabinet
> mentioned
> before would be perfect to use with this gun, with some cheapo lexan panel
> to view through.   The whole thing could probably be built for less than
> $60.
> Jim Yeagley
> 1996 Dodge Indy Ram
> See it and many others at: www.indyram.org
> 1975 Pontiac Grandville Brougham Conv. (in baskets)
> webmaster@indyram.org
> jimyeagley@stratos.net
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 10:13:39 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: How do AICs work?
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 10:16:32 -0500
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-----Original Message-----
From: Daniel Houlton <houlster@user2.inficad.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 10:04 AM
Subject: Re: How do AICs work?

While it's common practice not to exceed 85%, if your oem calibration does,
what makes you believe that for that application 100% is wrong?.
  You mention smog police, and steathy, ya really think they'll miss the
turbo?.
Did you ever figure out for sure if the MAF is voltage or freq?.
Bruce
>soren wrote:
>>
>> >If I need to intercept and modify the MAF signal anyways, then I'd much
>> >rather swap to larger injectors than run the rising rate FPR or plumb in
>> >additional injectors.  It's much cleaner I think, doesn't have any bad
>> >sides that I can see (so long as I don't go so big it won't idle) and
>> >it's much more stealthy.  I'll have a much better chance of sliding this
>> >whole thing by the smog police if I don't have a huge regulator or extra
>> >fuel lines and injectors running everywhere.
>> >
>> >Any insight is appreciated.
>>
>>
>>     I definitely agree that larger injectors are the way to go depending
on
>> your budget.  The lack of extra plumbing is definitely a plus.  However,
if
>> the ECM is reacting to the extra boost and going to 100% duty cycle on
the
>> stock injectors but cannot react to the change in fuel mixture caused by
an
>> additional injector (because it is in open loop), how could it react to
the
>> change in fuel mixture caused by the larger injectors when the ECM
commanded
>> 100% d.c.(again in open-loop)?  It appears to me as if they would be
similar
>> in actual function.
>>
>> Soren Rounds
>
>
>Regardless of how the extra fuel is added, the idea is to keep the ECM from
>commanding 100% d.c. by intercepting the MAF signal, changing (reducing)
it,
>and then passing it on to the ECM.  How much to reduce it is the tricky
part
>as the MAF output is not linear to the airflow through it.
>
>In the case of the addition injector or higher fuel pressure, I'd have to
>figure houw much to reduce the MAF signal based on how much extra fuel the
>higher pressure or extra injectors will dump.  i.e. if the extra injectors
are
>dumping 30% of the total fuel, the MAF signal to the ECM would have to be
>reduced enough such that the ECM injects 30% less fuel.
>
>With larger injectors that flow say 50% more fuel than stock, the MAF
signal
>would need to be reduced enough so that the ECM would inject only 66% of
the
>fuel it would of from the un-modified signal.
>
>When it's in open-loop WOT, it reads the MAF directly and squirts an
appropriate
>amount of fuel.  The extra fuel from having larger injectors is offset by a
>shorter pulsewidth (and therefore duty cycle) commanded by the ECM from
seeing
>a lower signal from the MAF.
>
>
>--Dan
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 10:32:26 1999
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At 08:18 AM 3/5/99 -0500, you wrote:
>SFI at 6000RPM is 30CPS, ganged injectors (double fire) is 60CPS. That's

anyone looking for scopes ??  I have two -- one an HP (don't have model
or BW, but suspect it's about 20 MHz) and the other, a Phillips PM-3055
with 60 MHz BW.  Both are benchtop scopes -- not handheld.  Also
have some other test equipment and a Weller WTCP soldering iron
in good condition, if anyone's interested.


Tom Cloud <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 10:32:41 1999
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Hi,
   A month or so ago, someone posted a document on a GM ECM from either the late
80's (88-89) or early 90's describing how that software worked, and a bunch of 
the ALDL commands.  It gave a very nice description of some of the filtering 
done on the signals, and how some of the engine settings were calculated.  
Unfortunately, I didn't keep an electronic copy, and have been asked for a copy 
of it.  Can anyone re-point me to this document???

THanks,
Dave Hempstead


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 10:38:25 1999
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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 08:42:38 -0700 (MST)
From: Terrill Yuhas <tyuhas@mail.arl.arizona.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: MPFI and SFI
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On Thu, 4 Mar 1999, Bruce Plecan wrote:

> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Terrill Yuhas <tyuhas@mail.arl.arizona.edu>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Thursday, March 04, 1999 11:20 AM
> Subject: MPFI and SFI
> 
> Your terms are so general that I'm lost at what you mean.  Do you want to
> change ecms, or
> cars?.  If ecms what do you have?.
> Bruce
> 

Sorry about that.  I found a nice 3400 V6 in a minivan.  The ECM had
already been pirated.  I wondered if the 1227730 that I currently have 
could still run the 3400 even though it is SFI and my injection system is
currently set up as batch fire.

Terrill


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 10:41:30 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: aluminum intake cosmetics (Sand Blasting)
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Let me second Jim's comment. Keep the sand Dry! I had a lot
of problems with my pressurized sandblaster clogging. It was
caused by moisture in the compressed air. I had a water trap
on the input to the sandblaster, but it didn't work in the
humid northeast summers. I moved the compressor to my
basement, and put 30 feet of copper tubing looped through my
Basement (usually 10 degrees cooler than the outside temp).
My water seperator really started to fill up, and my
sandblaster stopped clogging. Cooling the air really helped
seperate the water, and gave me dryer air.

		Ken

Jim Davies wrote:
> 
> On Fri, 5 Mar 1999, Pedro Haynes wrote:
> 
> >
> > Once i found a diagram of a sand blaster that you can build from an old
> > propane tank. If I am lucky enough to find it I will post the site.
> >
> A sandblast cabinet can be made from plywood, K3 board etc and will last a
> long time if you do not sandblast the cabinet directly. Sears used to sell
> a cheapo sandblaster that can be easily converted to use in the cabinet.
> These units came with steel nozzles, but ceramic were available from Sears
> for a reasonable  price [this was a few years ago...] Cheap, but
> effective... Sand is pretty cheap by the sack. I usually used 20-30 for
> sheet metal, cast iron or whatever. Glass beads are a lot more money and
> often are a waste of time IMO. When the sand gets dirty, rounded off, etc
> it stops working. At the price of sand, you can afford to dump it. Keep
> the sand dry...

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 11:10:12 1999
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In a message dated 3/5/99 10:35:35 AM Eastern Standard Time,
DAVE_HEMPSTEAD@HP-Andover-om3.om.hp.com writes:

> Hi,
>     A month or so ago, someone posted a document on a GM ECM from either the
> late
>  80's (88-89) or early 90's describing how that software worked, and a bunch
> of 
>  the ALDL commands.  It gave a very nice description of some of the
filtering 
> 
>  done on the signals, and how some of the engine settings were calculated.  
>  Unfortunately, I didn't keep an electronic copy, and have been asked for a 
> copy 
>  of it.  Can anyone re-point me to this document???
>  

http://members.home.com/syclone/Turbo_P4_Doc.pdf

Assuming the link still works.

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 11:19:06 1999
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>While it's common practice not to exceed 85%, if your oem calibration does,
>what makes you believe that for that application 100% is wrong?.



    Oh yeah I forgot to mention that apparently the injectors on my turbo
Impulse run at 98% duty cycle under boost in stock trim (Hitachi fuel
injection, 8 psi boost).  That figure is from some literature from Isuzu;
tested levels appear as 100% on my crappy multimeter duty cycle setting.
I've never had an injector lock up on me.

Soren Rounds



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 11:23:34 1999
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Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 16:18:29 +0000
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu
Subject: Re: EEC Report
References: <3.0.5.32.19990305072739.009e2a80@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>
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> Finally, if anyone is interested in the technical side of the EEC,
> consider joining the EEC list  .....  and there is information posted
> at various www and ftp sites.  Write me for info.

Hey Tom,

Thanks for posting the links and the write up... just
bookmarked all of them.  I recently aquired on the cheap a
nearly complete EFI system out of an 1988 Grand Marquis that
I was able to start and run at various RPMs before the
battery died that I have brought into the car (junk car
didn't have an alternator).  Anyway, the ecm says:

E8SF-AE1A
8KD

I have the injector harness, the sensor harness minus the O2
sensor portion, someone had already disconnected them
unfortunately, but I do have the MAF (I think its a MAF) the
throttle body/valve, and the IAC and all the connectors. 
I've had this for a few weeks now and debating for my Mopar
431 stoker that's coming down the pike very soon applying
this ECM to the hardware.  Originally, I was going GM TPI,
as I have a complete setup for this as well (1993 Camaro). 
For some reason, the Ford stuff was much easier to
get/obtain and much cheaper.

Anyway, I'm just updating ya :)

Do you have the links for the EEC-IV project website(s) as
well as the mailing list?  I was subscribed for a while, but
apparently no longer and am missing the links.

Would be appreciated!

-- 
Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

http://www.xephic.dynip.com
1993 Superchaged Lincoln Continental
1989 500cid Turbocharged HWMMV
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab (soon to be twin turbo 440)
2000 Buick GTP (twin turbo V6)

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 11:30:11 1999
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Subject: Re: Handheld O-Scope
References: <Pine.BSI.3.95.990304225918.2248A-100000@horizon.hit.net> <3.0.5.32.19990305092513.0085ea30@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>
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Hi Tom, didn't know you were still on the list.  I might be interested
in one of your scopes, what's your price range?

--steve

cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu wrote:
> 
> At 08:18 AM 3/5/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >SFI at 6000RPM is 30CPS, ganged injectors (double fire) is 60CPS. That's
> 
> anyone looking for scopes ??  I have two -- one an HP (don't have model
> or BW, but suspect it's about 20 MHz) and the other, a Phillips PM-3055
> with 60 MHz BW.  Both are benchtop scopes -- not handheld.  Also
> have some other test equipment and a Weller WTCP soldering iron
> in good condition, if anyone's interested.
> 
> Tom Cloud <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 11:38:15 1999
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From: Daniel Houlton <houlster@user2.inficad.com>
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Subject: Re: Voltage controller?
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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In-Reply-To: <36E01D0E.51F3@nni.com> from "rr" at Mar 05, 1999 10:06:06 AM
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rr wrote:
> 
> Dan,
> 
> If you wanted to convert the 5v MAP to a 12v signal, relative, use an
> op-amp. Just use an amp with a gain of 2.4 (12 / 5). Use this in the
> non-inverting configuration. The only problem with this is head-room,
> most amps won't go to the plus rail.
> 
> A better approach might be PWM. Look in the 'incoming' directory for
> the files: PWM2.gif  and PWM2.txt (not sure of the exact case).
> 

Thanks, I just found that on the ftp site this morning.  I think that'll
do what I want.  I got on the ERL site to do some more checking.  They
say the pump is controlled by varying frequency and duration of the controlling
pulse.  In the specs for the pump, they list an Input voltage of around 14V,
Input current of 8A, and a control input of 0-12V @ 5mA(digital).  This 
would be a PWM signal right?  Does the voltage in this case of the control
input matter?  Since the motor has a seperate power source wouldn't a particular
pulse frequency @ say 4V have the same result as the same pulse @ 8, 10 or
12V?

thanks
--Dan


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 11:59:24 1999
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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 08:52:04 -0800
Subject: Use larger inj. & dual -pots/SMOG
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<<If I need to intercept and modify the MAF signal anyways, then I'd much
rather swap to larger injectors than run the rising rate FPR or plumb in
additional injectors.  It's much cleaner I think, doesn't have any bad
sides that I can see (so long as I don't go so big it won't idle) and
it's much more stealthy.  I'll have a much better chance of sliding this
whole thing by the smog police if I don't have a huge regulator or extra
fuel lines and injectors running everywhere.>>

Damn skippy! That's how to do it. No aux injectors, no rising rate FPR, or any
band-aids like that. Go with larger injectors, and fab up the dual-pot MAF
sensor signal intercept. It's the cleanest low buck way to get the job done (in
your case). You can mount the pots in your glovebox if you want! No SMOG check
is going to get you if you make the wiring appear OEM (w/ OEM connectors,
tie-wraps, etc.).

I'm not so lucky. I'm in CA, and have to get the car SMOG checked every two
years. I'll have to remove the ENTIRE custom turbo set-up: Electromotive TEC II,
larger injectors, FPR, copper headgasket (have to raise the CR back up to 10:1),
3" exhaust & 3" downpipe, J-pipe, all plumbing, all TEC II wiring, install an
OEM wiring harness to the engine...ARRRGH!!!

I guess I could use it as an excuse to swap in a freshly bored out short block,
while I have the head off. Maybe upgrade to all forged pistons/rods. =)

Anybody go to a SMOG referee station to get their car exempted? I can dial the
emissions in to better than OEM w/ the TEC II and a laptop. Or, I could have a
"SMOG" program just for it, w/ the EGR functioning as well. CA SMOG test is
simple enough. They check the car at 900 rpm for 30 seconds, then 2500 rpm for
30 or 45 seconds, then check it again at 900 rpm. Visual inspection checks the
fuel filler flap (so the car can't use leaded), the Cat, the EGR vacuum pump
test, vacuum lines, and a watchful eye for any aftermarket goodies
(turbo/NOS/SC, etc.). Thoughts on the SMOG ref station? If I didn't pass, the
car would be VIN marked for life! =(

Jason
'93 SLC





From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 12:00:50 1999
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Subject: Re: How do AICs work?
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 10:00:45 -0700 (MST)
In-Reply-To: <00e301be671b$2cd6b8c0$39633acf@nacelp> from "Bruce Plecan" at Mar 05, 1999 10:16:32 AM
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Daniel Houlton <houlster@user2.inficad.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 10:04 AM
> Subject: Re: How do AICs work?
> 
> While it's common practice not to exceed 85%, if your oem calibration does,
> what makes you believe that for that application 100% is wrong?.

Because of everything I've read on fuel injecton and injectors say that a 
duty cycle that high will damage the injectors in short order.  Some say 80%
is the limit.  Some say 90%.  But they all agree that 100% is bad.

Also, I doubt my OEM calibration does exceed 80 or 85%.  The engine never
made enought hp stock to need it.  It's only hitting 100% I'm sure because 
of the extra hp the turbo is making.


>   You mention smog police, and steathy, ya really think they'll miss the
> turbo?.

Not sure.  I'm in AZ and I've found them to be somewhat liberal in what they'll
let pass as long as it looks safe and passes the sniffer.  I had an un-
certified header last time I went in, but it retained the EGR and O2 sensor
and passed the sniffer no problem so they didn't say a word.  I also called 
before putting the header on and spoke to one of the techs that do the tests.
He said as long as no smog equipment is removed and it passes the sniffer they
don't much care if the actual parts have an smog number on them or not.

My turbo actually looks very factory installed other than the induction hoses
which I plan to re-do by then to make it look cleaner and neater.  I do 
believe that unless I get one that know Amigos, they won't know it didn't 
come from the factory.  And even if they do, I doubt they'll flunk it unless
I mess with the smog equipment or it fails the sniffer.  The extra injectors
and lines just make it look less factory.

> Did you ever figure out for sure if the MAF is voltage or freq?.

It's definitely voltage.  Previously I had it only up to about 4.3 V, but I
hooked the meter back up to it last night and took it out on the freeway and
at high loads and boost, it got 5.7V out of it.  This was around 4500 rpm or 
so and about 8 psi of boost which isn't quite where the injectors maxed out 
yet.  The MAF has 3 wires: 12V power (regulated 12V I think, not battery 
voltage.), ground and the signal wire.  I really would like to get it flow
tested to plot the V out against the cfm it flows.  Can't find a place that 
can do it though.

I did check the manual for my automotive multimeter and it turns out it can
measure frequency from MAFs (RTFM right?) using one of the modes intended 
for measuring rpm.  Havent tried it yet though to see.


thanks
--Dan

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 12:04:29 1999
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Subject: Re: How do AICs work?
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 10:04:26 -0700 (MST)
In-Reply-To: <005001be6723$bcafb2a0$597889d0@soren> from "soren" at Mar 05, 1999 08:17:59 AM
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soren wrote:
> 
> 
> >While it's common practice not to exceed 85%, if your oem calibration does,
> >what makes you believe that for that application 100% is wrong?.
> 
> 
>     Oh yeah I forgot to mention that apparently the injectors on my turbo
> Impulse run at 98% duty cycle under boost in stock trim (Hitachi fuel
> injection, 8 psi boost).  That figure is from some literature from Isuzu;
> tested levels appear as 100% on my crappy multimeter duty cycle setting.
> I've never had an injector lock up on me.
> 
> Soren Rounds
> 

That's interesting.  Do you happen to know who makes them or what type they
are?  Bosch, Lucas, pintle, disc, etc?


--Dan

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 12:05:38 1999
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Any scope is better than no scope, but the rule of thumb
is that the scope BW oughta be 5X the signal of interest.

The scope will lie to you about the waveform otherwise.
Slow scopes won't show you hi-frequency noise/ringing/
oscillation riding your signal levels, for instance.
Frequently an issue, especially on breadboards.

There are lots of 100 Mhz Teks out there surplus,
typically $300-500. These can be very good value for money.
Don't buy an analog storage scope. (Unless you want one).
Different animal.

I've been using a 50 Mhz Tek 556 for years, a genuine 
dinosaur :) It's an awesome piece, but I keep thinking
about those 30-year-old electrolytics ...

Regards, Jack

Daniel Houlton wrote:
 
> Bruce Plecan wrote:
> > Just saw an ad for one in MCM flyer
> > Handheld O-Scope 5 Hz    $199
> > (800) 543-4330
 
> How much use is this?  I don't know much about them other than the higher
> the frequency, the higher the cost.  What's the minimum we should be looking
> for to do EFI type stuff or just general circuit building?  Is this one
> good enough to be useful or will it rapidly show it's limitations?  I've
> seen 20, 30, 60 and up to 100 Hz scopes.  How much is really needed?

Hi Dan.



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 12:09:21 1999
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From: Michael Kasimirsky <mtk@tmc.astm.cmri.cmu.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: aluminum intake cosmetics
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 13:35:56 -0500 
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> High Performance Coatings--Salt Lake City, Okie City. Do not 
> have number
> handy, Let me know if 1-800 info cannot get it for you.
> 
> They do headers, pistons, manifolds, chambers, ports, you 
> name it. (Several
> different types of coatings.)

I had the exhaust system on a Suzuki GSX-R750 coated by HPC
and I was not impressed.  It cost over $200 for the coating and
the pipe rusted in less than two years.  I've heard of people getting 
better results than I did, but they won't be getting any more money
from me to find out.  If anything, I'd use Jet Hot Coatings since
at least they offer a 3 year warrantee.  But in reality, I'll buy
stainless
pipes or get used to frequent reapplication of high-temp paint.

Michael Kasimirsky            1990 Yamaha FZR400 Superbike Racer
Loki Motorsports              1993 Kawasaki ZX1100D1 Streetbike Rider
FASTTRAX & WERA Expert #21  Sponsored by Loki Motorsports & Bridgestone
mtk@tmc.astm.cmri.cmu.edu        

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 12:14:41 1999
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From: esc <esc@firstnethou.com>
Subject: New to list, have a question.
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Hi everyone,
I'm Eric Comstock and I just joined this list.

I thought I would start by asking a question.  First my situation.

I am working on a Chevy 350 using a Holley Projection4 TBI.  This is one of
the origional analog units that used the MSD controller.  I also have the
closed loop kit (O2 only) installed. So it gets inputs from the throttle
position sensor, the distributor(RPM), the starter, coolent temperature,
and the O2 sensor.  I installed a shut-off switch on the Closed loop kit,
so that baseline adjustments can be easily made.

The closed loop kit intercepts the TPS voltage and adjusts it in order to
fool the computer into adjusting the fuel flow.

OK, everything worked fairly well until I installed a RAM-AIR system on the
car.  Now the difference between high speed on a cold night and low speeds
on a hot day is too much for the system to cope with.

I'm really not sure what to do about it.  The only thing that I have been
able to come up with so far is to build my own computer to run things.  I
am an experienced programmer, but that project would be a little outside of
my realm of experience.  

Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?

Should I just go buy the new Digital Projection system and hope it will
work better?

Thanks


Eric Comstock
esc@firstnethou.com

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 12:18:11 1999
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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 09:11:14 -0800
Subject: Grass roots Water Injection/ injectors
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 <<For my turbo, I don't
yet have an intercooler and don't know when I will.  In the meantime, I've
planned on building a water injection system using basically a boost
pressurized tank and a couple pumps to provide a pressure differential to
inject water after the turbo.Instead though, it's very likely that I'll be
getting an ERL AquaMist from a friend to try out.  This is the $500 job I think.
Uses a high pressure
magnetic/diaphram pump or something.  I won't be getting the controller
they sell for it, just the basic system.>>

Uhh, before blowing all that cash on the AquaMist set-up...PLEASE read this
page! It's what the doctor ordered. Grass roots water injection for
forced-induction.

http://home.ccci.org/Key_Information/MerkurPage.htm#H20

You also mentioned that your injectors were hitting the 100% duty cycle wall
under full boost (9psi), and that you heard anything over 80% was dangerous.
Well, it depends on a lot of variables, but running most Bosch injectors at 90%
is fine. They can handle it all day long. 95% is pushing it. 100% is
unacceptable. If you could tweak the injector pulse width values in the code,
you could swap in larger injectors and simply run the duty cycle at
significantly less at idle...and close the pulsewidth to the about the lowest
value the ECU can go (let's say 5ms). Then have normal values up top. That would
avoid running extremely rich at idle, but would be fine under boost. One of the
problems with my Motronic 2.9 version, is that it can't lower the pulsewidth
below about 4ms. When 440cc/min injectors were swapped in, it would run rich at
idle. The code couldn't be tweaked any further. Result? Plenty of fuel under
boost, but black smoke at idle. Kiss $35 worth of new NGK dual-electrode plugs
goodbye. Fouled beyond cleaning. Motronic out, Electromotive in. No more MAF
sensor troubles either. Speed Density and forced-induction is a match made in
hot rod heaven, IF...you have the right software. =)

Jason
'93 SLC



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>>     Oh yeah I forgot to mention that apparently the injectors on my turbo
>> Impulse run at 98% duty cycle under boost in stock trim (Hitachi fuel
>> injection, 8 psi boost).  That figure is from some literature from Isuzu;
>> tested levels appear as 100% on my crappy multimeter duty cycle setting.
>> I've never had an injector lock up on me.
>>
>> Soren Rounds
>>
>
>That's interesting.  Do you happen to know who makes them or what type they
>are?  Bosch, Lucas, pintle, disc, etc?

    They are peak & hold type, I think NGK, most likely pintle type.  Flow
225 cc/min @85% dc & 43 psi

Soren





From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 12:56:33 1999
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Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 12:56:32 -0500
From: Doug Mansfield <mansfield@cns.ohiou.edu>
To: Do-it-Yourself Fuel Injection Mailing List <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: DIS and DIST ref pulse
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I understand the DIS/IDI systems use a sync pulse each revolution of the
crank, but with Ted's recent SyTy experiments, it seems that the ECM does
not use this sync pulse?  Does the DIS module "consume" this pulse?

I guess what I am really getting at is what does the signal that goes to
the ECM look like from a DIS v. DIST system compared to the signal that
goes to the module.  Are they 5v?  When do they go high/go low?  Does the
module create the pulse for the ECM or does the reluctor?

Thanks for any insight.


Doug

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 13:04:57 1999
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-----Original Message-----
From: esc <esc@firstnethou.com>
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 12:29 PM
Subject: New to list, have a question.

Welcome aboard.
How about using a oem ecm to run the injectors?.
If you go to the home page, and oem systems, and parts, there might be some
info to help.
Also, going through the archives, and searching would help.
Bruce


>Hi everyone,
>I'm Eric Comstock and I just joined this list.
>
>I thought I would start by asking a question.  First my situation.
>
>I am working on a Chevy 350 using a Holley Projection4 TBI.  This is one of
>the origional analog units that used the MSD controller.  I also have the
>closed loop kit (O2 only) installed. So it gets inputs from the throttle
>position sensor, the distributor(RPM), the starter, coolent temperature,
>and the O2 sensor.  I installed a shut-off switch on the Closed loop kit,
>so that baseline adjustments can be easily made.
>
>The closed loop kit intercepts the TPS voltage and adjusts it in order to
>fool the computer into adjusting the fuel flow.
>
>OK, everything worked fairly well until I installed a RAM-AIR system on the
>car.  Now the difference between high speed on a cold night and low speeds
>on a hot day is too much for the system to cope with.
>
>I'm really not sure what to do about it.  The only thing that I have been
>able to come up with so far is to build my own computer to run things.  I
>am an experienced programmer, but that project would be a little outside of
>my realm of experience.
>
>Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
>
>Should I just go buy the new Digital Projection system and hope it will
>work better?
>
>Thanks
>
>
>Eric Comstock
>esc@firstnethou.com
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 13:13:53 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: RE: aluminum intake cosmetics
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>> High Performance Coatings--Salt Lake City, Okie City. Do not
>> have number
>> handy, Let me know if 1-800 info cannot get it for you.
>>
>> They do headers, pistons, manifolds, chambers, ports, you
>> name it. (Several
>> different types of coatings.)
>
>I had the exhaust system on a Suzuki GSX-R750 coated by HPC
>and I was not impressed.  It cost over $200 for the coating and
>the pipe rusted in less than two years.  I've heard of people getting
>better results than I did, but they won't be getting any more money
>from me to find out.  If anything, I'd use Jet Hot Coatings since
>at least they offer a 3 year warrantee.  But in reality, I'll buy
>stainless

Hmmmm--well if you did not go for the "extreme duty " HPC coating, but
needed it, that is the first problem. I can't buy stainless headers for my
current projects, so am fabricating them from 321 SS (not particularly easy
to buy headers in 321 SS anyway), which is the RIGHT stuff for headers.
THEN--gonna have HPC put their extreme duty coating on them, inside and out
for the thermal qualities--obviously not for corrosion prevention. Prolly
gonna insulate the tubes over the coating too, but that's another story.

Heat retention is the true purpose of these coatings, not necessarily
corrosion protection. And the thermal properties of the coatings were what
I was talking to the guys about---

Greg

>pipes or get used to frequent reapplication of high-temp paint.
>
>Michael Kasimirsky            1990 Yamaha FZR400 Superbike Racer
>Loki Motorsports              1993 Kawasaki ZX1100D1 Streetbike Rider
>FASTTRAX & WERA Expert #21  Sponsored by Loki Motorsports & Bridgestone
>mtk@tmc.astm.cmri.cmu.edu



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 13:18:06 1999
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From: Ron <httpd@graphic1.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: When you run out of pulsewidth...
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Please excuse if this is a naive question - I'm a very interested newbie.

The Jag V12's I like to putz with use a coldstart injector in the center
of the manifold. If you ran out of duty cycle could you just turn this on
to increase fuel volume? Or expand on this with more of a 'throttle body
injector' type of arrangement to keep the plumbing down? Got lots of
airflow at that time anyway.

Ron@graphic1.com


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 13:22:31 1999
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References: <199903051638.JAA16577@user2.inficad.com>
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I'm having some trouble following what you are saying. Can you post the
URL for the Aqua-mist site?

It sounds like the pump itself has some sort of controller built in,
that needs another controller to run?

As far as the 0-12v@5ma signal, and the level, it would depend upon
what the digital level detector's are set to, as to whether a lower
voltage would work or not.

BobR.


> 
> rr wrote:
> > 
> > Dan,
> > 
> > If you wanted to convert the 5v MAP to a 12v signal, relative, use an
> > op-amp. Just use an amp with a gain of 2.4 (12 / 5). Use this in the
> > non-inverting configuration. The only problem with this is head-room,
> > most amps won't go to the plus rail.
> > 
> > A better approach might be PWM. Look in the 'incoming' directory for
> > the files: PWM2.gif  and PWM2.txt (not sure of the exact case).
> > 

Dan wrote:
> 
> Thanks, I just found that on the ftp site this morning.  I think that'll
> do what I want.  I got on the ERL site to do some more checking.  They
> say the pump is controlled by varying frequency and duration of the controlling
> pulse.  In the specs for the pump, they list an Input voltage of around 14V,
> Input current of 8A, and a control input of 0-12V @ 5mA(digital).  This 
> would be a PWM signal right?  Does the voltage in this case of the control
> input matter?  Since the motor has a seperate power source wouldn't a particular
> pulse frequency @ say 4V have the same result as the same pulse @ 8, 10 or
> 12V?
> 
> thanks

--


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On Fri, 5 Mar 1999 cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu wrote:

> 
>   2 - Matt Happy at Auburn Performance Equipment has introduced his
> product called the "SpeedBrain", which replaces the '87-'95 (I'm not
> certain of the exact years) Mustang MAF EFI.  This is what most
> folks are converting to when they do mods -- but, it leaves out
> those who have the E4OD tranny.  Auburn Performance Equipment <GoAPE@tiac.net>
> 
> 	http://www.tiac.net/users/goape/sb.htm

A possible work-around for the E4OD would be to use a pre-PowerStroke
Diesel EECIV computer to control the trans, as that is all it does...


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 13:26:41 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: DIS and DIST ref pulse
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-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Mansfield <mansfield@cns.ohiou.edu>
To: Do-it-Yourself Fuel Injection Mailing List
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 1:10 PM
Subject: DIS and DIST ref pulse


>I understand the DIS/IDI systems use a sync pulse each revolution of the
>crank, but with Ted's recent SyTy experiments, it seems that the ECM does
>not use this sync pulse?

Sync pulse is for SEFI, batch fired don't use it.
Bruce

 Does the DIS module "consume" this pulse?
>I guess what I am really getting at is what does the signal that goes to
>the ECM look like from a DIS v. DIST system compared to the signal that
>goes to the module.  Are they 5v?  When do they go high/go low?  Does the
>module create the pulse for the ECM or does the reluctor?
>Thanks for any insight.
>Doug



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 13:38:11 1999
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From: Daniel Houlton <houlster@user2.inficad.com>
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Subject: Re: Grass roots Water Injection/ injectors
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 10:48:44 -0700 (MST)
In-Reply-To: <8825672B.005E781A.00@GWSMTPSCLA02.mis.amat.com> from "Jason_Leone@amat.com" at Mar 05, 1999 09:11:14 AM
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Jason_Leone@amat.com wrote:
> 
>  <<For my turbo, I don't
> yet have an intercooler and don't know when I will.  In the meantime, I've
> planned on building a water injection system using basically a boost
> pressurized tank and a couple pumps to provide a pressure differential to
> inject water after the turbo.Instead though, it's very likely that I'll be
> getting an ERL AquaMist from a friend to try out.  This is the $500 job I think.
> Uses a high pressure
> magnetic/diaphram pump or something.  I won't be getting the controller
> they sell for it, just the basic system.>>
> 
> Uhh, before blowing all that cash on the AquaMist set-up...PLEASE read this

Yeah I should have mentioned.  I'm not *buying* the AquaMist (not with money
anyways), I'm *getting* one, basically free from a friend.  I agree they're
way too expensive for me, but hey, I can't turn it down.

> page! It's what the doctor ordered. Grass roots water injection for
> forced-induction.
> 
> http://home.ccci.org/Key_Information/MerkurPage.htm#H20

Been there.  Excellent page with temp reduction results and everything.  This
is pretty much the system I was basing mine on.  FYI for those that haven't
been there yet, he got better temp reductions with the water injection (< $100)
then he did with his custom Spearco air/water IC (~$700).


> 
> You also mentioned that your injectors were hitting the 100% duty cycle wall
> under full boost (9psi), and that you heard anything over 80% was dangerous.
> Well, it depends on a lot of variables, but running most Bosch injectors at 90%
> is fine. They can handle it all day long. 95% is pushing it. 100% is
> unacceptable. If you could tweak the injector pulse width values in the code,
> you could swap in larger injectors and simply run the duty cycle at
> significantly less at idle...and close the pulsewidth to the about the lowest
> value the ECU can go (let's say 5ms). Then have normal values up top. That would
> avoid running extremely rich at idle, but would be fine under boost. One of the
> problems with my Motronic 2.9 version, is that it can't lower the pulsewidth
> below about 4ms. When 440cc/min injectors were swapped in, it would run rich at
> idle. The code couldn't be tweaked any further. Result? Plenty of fuel under
> boost, but black smoke at idle. Kiss $35 worth of new NGK dual-electrode plugs
> goodbye. Fouled beyond cleaning. Motronic out, Electromotive in. No more MAF
> sensor troubles either. Speed Density and forced-induction is a match made in
> hot rod heaven, IF...you have the right software. =)
> 
> Jason
> '93 SLC

Yeah, that's a big if.  If I had an aftermerked EFI I could do about anything I
wanted.  Too expensive though and I'm not willing to replace the stock ECM.  In
a sports car? yeah maybe.  But not worth it to me for my truck.  Even modifying 
the stock ECM is out since there's no scanners or chip makers for it that I'm
aware of.  Not sure I'd want to fork over the cash for a one-time chip anyways.
Too little bang for the buck.  I would go to a complete system like an Electromotive
unit before I did that.


--Dan


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 13:57:13 1999
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At 10:46 AM 3/5/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Hi everyone,
>I'm Eric Comstock and I just joined this list.
>
>I thought I would start by asking a question.  First my situation.
>
>I am working on a Chevy 350 using a Holley Projection4 TBI.  This is one of
>the origional analog units that used the MSD controller.  I also have the
>closed loop kit (O2 only) installed. So it gets inputs from the throttle
>position sensor, the distributor(RPM), the starter, coolent temperature,
>and the O2 sensor.  I installed a shut-off switch on the Closed loop kit,
>so that baseline adjustments can be easily made.
>
>The closed loop kit intercepts the TPS voltage and adjusts it in order to
>fool the computer into adjusting the fuel flow.
>
>OK, everything worked fairly well until I installed a RAM-AIR system on the
>car.  Now the difference between high speed on a cold night and low speeds
>on a hot day is too much for the system to cope with.


Eric,  I also have an early ProJection  ....  doesn't have the EGO
feedback though.  This is probably not going to be any real help
to you, but I thought I'd share some quick thoughts with you

  . the projection is an alpha-n controller -- only uses rpm and
tps to determine fuel flow

  . the temp input is, as best as I can determine, basically an
on-off kind of thing to enrich the mixture and energize the throttle
kicker, so I don't consider it a bona fide "input" for normal
operation

  . the "ego feedback" unit is only to keep the system closer to
stoic ......  a problem I constantly have is the unit always runs
rich .... it can be adjusted leaner, but then it will run entirely
too lean at certain points (I have a DPM watching an EGO, so I
get a little "feedback" myself  ;-)

... if you agree with the above (that the ego feeback is to try to
keep the unit from running so rich, and maybe to prevent the operating
points where it also runs too lean, and that it's not to really improve
on the operating characteristics of the unit ....)

  . then, consider that a MAP input might be more logical ??   I had
entertained the idea of either building my own ego feedback unit or
a map feedback unit -- or could actually sum the two together ??  All
that's needed is to sum the input from the tps with the conditioned
voltage(s) from the other devices.  To me, the map input makes more
sense and would elevate the unit from the status of simple alpha-n
controller to a simple speed-density unit (which their literature
claims it is anyway!).

Why haven't I done that?  The Bronco it's in is my "fun" truck and
doesn't get driven often and it has other needs first.  Second, I
am now collecting parts to put the oem ford maf setup on it.  This
will cost $1000 or more by the time I'm done, but it should work
without hiccups and I don't think any bandaid fix is ever going to
really fix the projection (not even their digital unit).

just some rambling thoughts on the ProJection ......

Tom Cloud <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 14:00:51 1999
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Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 14:02:27 -0500
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Subject: Re: Handheld O-Scope
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At 12:03 AM 3/5/99 -0500, Bruce Plecan wrote:

Bruce Plecan wrote:
> Just saw an ad for one in MCM flyer
> Handheld O-Scope 5 Hz    $199
> (800) 543-4330

I'm looking to get a handheld scope, and I wanted to know if people had
any other leads on where to look.

Places I've already looked:
Fluke / HP / Tek
Jameco
and the places mentioned a couple weeks back about multimeters and
such.

Mainly I'd like a better sense of what's out there before I buy.
Roughly I'd like 5MHz, dual trace, frequency counter and all the
usual multimeter functions, $500 or less. (Which unless I mug someone
pretty much rules out the big 3...)

   TIA,
   Chris C.


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 14:01:54 1999
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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 14:01:18 EST
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In a message dated 3/5/99 12:59:41 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mansfield@cns.ohiou.edu writes:

> I understand the DIS/IDI systems use a sync pulse each revolution of the
>  crank, but with Ted's recent SyTy experiments, it seems that the ECM does
>  not use this sync pulse?  Does the DIS module "consume" this pulse?
>  
>  I guess what I am really getting at is what does the signal that goes to
>  the ECM look like from a DIS v. DIST system compared to the signal that
>  goes to the module.  Are they 5v?  When do they go high/go low?  Does the
>  module create the pulse for the ECM or does the reluctor?
>  
>  Thanks for any insight.
>  
>  
>  Doug


My DIS module recieves a synced pulse from the magnetic pickup which is
reading a reluctor.  The wheel is a "6+1" wheel (actually a pulley that I
rigged up).
The DIS module DOES NOT send a synced pulse to the ECM.
However, there is an unused pin on the DIS module.  Perhaps this could be the
sync pulse.  But with my batchfire ECM (7730) that pin is unused and the plug
is molded in such a way that I can't get to it to see what it's doing.

Ted

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 14:06:49 1999
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From: esc <esc@firstnethou.com>
Subject: Re: New to list, have a question.
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At 01:07 PM 3/5/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: esc <esc@firstnethou.com>
>To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 12:29 PM
>Subject: New to list, have a question.
>
>Welcome aboard.
>How about using a oem ecm to run the injectors?.
>If you go to the home page, and oem systems, and parts, there might be some
>info to help.
>Also, going through the archives, and searching would help.
>Bruce
>
>
I'll take a look at the archives.
Would you have any suggestions as to what whould be a good (read easy to
reprogram) OEM ECM to work with?
I would basically be starting from scratch.  I do like the idea of being
able to write my own code to run things, but I don't have any idea what
would be involved on the hardware side of the problem.


Eric Comstock
esc@firstnethou.com

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References: <Pine.BSI.3.95.990304225918.2248A-100000@horizon.hit.net>
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At 10:28 AM 3/5/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Hi Tom, didn't know you were still on the list.  I might be interested
>in one of your scopes, what's your price range?
>
>--steve

I've not been on the list -- and intend to unsubscribe pretty soon.
Just joined to report on the eec list's progress.

I don't know what's fair for the scopes ......  the each list in Tucker
and other used equipment sources for $600 +  ..... the Philips because
of its bandwidth and the HP for its name.  (If bandwidth weren't
important, I still don't know which I would choose -- I have two
of the Philips and am keeping one for myself, but the HP is nice
and it may be easier to get parts for it if it breaks ???)

anyway, back to price .... I suppose $250 or so.  I'm also looking for
parts to do the ford efi on my bronco, so I'm needing lots of ford
parts, like a mustang sefi maf harness ('89-'95 mustang), throttle
body, injectors, etc, etc.  If you're interested in that, I have a
long list!

So, are you still in Austin ?


Tom Cloud <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 14:16:05 1999
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In-Reply-To: <36E04A7E.6135@nni.com> from "rr" at Mar 05, 1999 01:19:58 PM
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rr wrote:
> 
> I'm having some trouble following what you are saying. Can you post the
> URL for the Aqua-mist site?

Sorry, I meant to include that but forgot. 

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/sys1/sys1a.html#pump

That's the paragraph where they say it's controlled by frequency.  Follow
the "TECH-LINK" link at the end of the paragraph to get to the pump specs.


> It sounds like the pump itself has some sort of controller built in,
> that needs another controller to run?

That's the way it sounds.  Reading the paragraph more closely, it does
state that it uses an on-board electronic controller.  

The "TECH" page says "pressure and delivery rate is regulated by internal
hi-tech electronic circuitry".  Then the specs at the bottom say it takes
a 14V, 8A power source and a 0-12V, 5mA digital signal.  Maybe it does 
just take a 0-12V voltage signal and convert it to PWM internally?  That's
kinda what it's starting to look like again.

The word "digital" on the spec for the signal input is what made me think
is used a PWM signal.  Maybe it's just a buzz-word or marketing thing to
make it sound fancier and it just uses a plain analog voltage signal?


thanks
--Dan

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 14:44:41 1999
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-----Original Message-----
From: esc <esc@firstnethou.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 2:23 PM
Subject: Re: New to list, have a question.

The gm 1227747 might be a good candidate.  Some of it's been hacked and at
Programming 101.  But, some of the code is internal to the ecm.  A 1227165,
1227730, have all the program on the memcal.  The 747 uses 32K prom, the
others 128/256K..
Bruce



>>Welcome aboard.
>>How about using a oem ecm to run the injectors?.
>>If you go to the home page, and oem systems, and parts, there might be
some
>>info to help.
>>Also, going through the archives, and searching would help.
>>Bruce
>I'll take a look at the archives.
>Would you have any suggestions as to what whould be a good (read easy to
>reprogram) OEM ECM to work with?
>I would basically be starting from scratch.  I do like the idea of being
>able to write my own code to run things, but I don't have any idea what
>would be involved on the hardware side of the problem.
>Eric Comstock
>esc@firstnethou.com



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 15:58:17 1999
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> I'll take a look at the archives.
> Would you have any suggestions as to what whould be a good (read easy to
> reprogram) OEM ECM to work with?
> I would basically be starting from scratch.  I do like the idea of being
> able to write my own code to run things, but I don't have any idea what
> would be involved on the hardware side of the problem.

Eric, start at the diy_efi WWW page, click on OEM systems, then click
GM.  Read the "programming 101" article and the "tuning tips article". 
They're both about the 1227747 ECM, a TBI ECM used on GM trucks from '88
to '92 or something like that.

There won't be much code to write, but a lot of major tables have been
figured out so there's some table editing to make it match your
particular engine.

You can get an EPROM programmer and some junk ECMs a lot cheaper than
the holley system....

--steve

> 
> Eric Comstock
> esc@firstnethou.com

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 16:32:35 1999
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> I've been using a 50 Mhz Tek 556 for years, a genuine 
> dinosaur :) It's an awesome piece, but I keep thinking
> about those 30-year-old electrolytics ...
> 
Tell me about them! I've had two old scopes go "BANG" while I was using
them - durn near jumped out of my skin and filled my drawers both times.
Smoke and Kapok (or whatever the stuff was - looked like dandelion
fluff) all over the room too.

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 17:08:08 1999
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help ..

someone gave me the name of an online place from whom I got
LED and LCD DPMs for something line $6.00 each.  They had lots
of good stuff cheeeep!  Now I can't find their address (lost their
bookmark somehow).

I know about Newark, Digikey, Mouser, Hosfelt, MCM ...

(you can see my automotive and electronic links at
	http://www.austin.cc.tx.us./ESA/tc_auto.html )


thanks
Tom Cloud <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 17:13:25 1999
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Jim Yeagley wrote:

> About the sandblasters:
>
> I seem to remember a while back buying a blaster for around $25 or $30 from
> an auto body supply house.  It looked like the head of a paint gun, without
> the cup, and had replaceable ceramic venturis.  The tube coming out of the
> bottom where the cup would normally be simply had a hose attached, the other
> end had another tube that could be shoved into the top of a bag of sand.
> Attach air at the base of the handle and you're done.  The cabinet mentioned
> before would be perfect to use with this gun, with some cheapo lexan panel
> to view through.   The whole thing could probably be built for less than
> $60.
>

I have one of those things and it works, although it's very messy without a
sanding box.  Eastwood has a bunch of different sandblasting kits and
sandblasting boxes.  Some of them have another suction hose next to the
sandblasting tip to reclaim the sand.

Daniel



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 17:17:28 1999
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From: "Ward Spoonemore" <spoonie@deltanet.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: DIS and DIST ref pulse
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 14:19:19 -0800
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Generally the DIS to ECM/PCM signal is the same as a DRP, Distributor
Reference Pulse, active on the falling edge.

Engine starting is handled by the DIS module with out help form the ECM/PCM.
This is because of the very ling periods between DRP's.
Ward

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Bruce
> Plecan
> Sent: Friday, March 05, 1999 10:30 AM
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: DIS and DIST ref pulse
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Doug Mansfield <mansfield@cns.ohiou.edu>
> To: Do-it-Yourself Fuel Injection Mailing List
> <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 1:10 PM
> Subject: DIS and DIST ref pulse
>
>
> >I understand the DIS/IDI systems use a sync pulse each revolution of the
> >crank, but with Ted's recent SyTy experiments, it seems that the ECM does
> >not use this sync pulse?
>
> Sync pulse is for SEFI, batch fired don't use it.
> Bruce
>
>  Does the DIS module "consume" this pulse?
> >I guess what I am really getting at is what does the signal that goes to
> >the ECM look like from a DIS v. DIST system compared to the signal that
> >goes to the module.  Are they 5v?  When do they go high/go low?  Does the
> >module create the pulse for the ECM or does the reluctor?
> >Thanks for any insight.
> >Doug
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 17:17:31 1999
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From: "Ward Spoonemore" <spoonie@deltanet.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: New to list, have a question.
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 14:19:20 -0800
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Bruce, exllent idea, a GM 1227747 would be perferct, it well documented and
cheep.
Ward.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Bruce
> Plecan
> Sent: Friday, March 05, 1999 10:08 AM
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: New to list, have a question.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: esc <esc@firstnethou.com>
> To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 12:29 PM
> Subject: New to list, have a question.
>
> Welcome aboard.
> How about using a oem ecm to run the injectors?.
> If you go to the home page, and oem systems, and parts, there
> might be some
> info to help.
> Also, going through the archives, and searching would help.
> Bruce
>
>
> >Hi everyone,
> >I'm Eric Comstock and I just joined this list.
> >
> >I thought I would start by asking a question.  First my situation.
> >
> >I am working on a Chevy 350 using a Holley Projection4 TBI.
> This is one of
> >the origional analog units that used the MSD controller.  I also have the
> >closed loop kit (O2 only) installed. So it gets inputs from the throttle
> >position sensor, the distributor(RPM), the starter, coolent temperature,
> >and the O2 sensor.  I installed a shut-off switch on the Closed loop kit,
> >so that baseline adjustments can be easily made.
> >
> >The closed loop kit intercepts the TPS voltage and adjusts it in order to
> >fool the computer into adjusting the fuel flow.
> >
> >OK, everything worked fairly well until I installed a RAM-AIR
> system on the
> >car.  Now the difference between high speed on a cold night and
> low speeds
> >on a hot day is too much for the system to cope with.
> >
> >I'm really not sure what to do about it.  The only thing that I have been
> >able to come up with so far is to build my own computer to run things.  I
> >am an experienced programmer, but that project would be a little
> outside of
> >my realm of experience.
> >
> >Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
> >
> >Should I just go buy the new Digital Projection system and hope it will
> >work better?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >
> >Eric Comstock
> >esc@firstnethou.com
> >
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 17:17:32 1999
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From: "Ward Spoonemore" <spoonie@deltanet.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Use larger inj. & dual -pots/SMOG
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 14:19:22 -0800
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Jason, I don't think so, The hardware has to be OEM, ECM sensors etc, The
referee will by an engine swap if you swap a car engine into a car or
truck/truck, but you can't pick and choose. It has to be an identifiable OEM
configuration, else you don't get to the emission test part of the program,
you go to exit do not pass go.

This leaves using the OEM processor, generally a much better choice anyway,
but you need to hack the code or by commercial code mod programs, they are
amiable for a lot of applications.

And as for the 2 step test, If you have a heavy duty truck, you got it
right, otherwise its to the BAR97 Dyno test. The NOX portion usually gets
the hot car guys in California.

Of course you can sign up as a limited production car maker and start out
with EPA 75 emissions testing, shed test etc. The EPA 75's are $750 a pop.

Ward

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of
> Jason_Leone@amat.com
> Sent: Friday, March 05, 1999 8:52 AM
> To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Cc: Daniel Houlton
> Subject: Use larger inj. & dual -pots/SMOG
>
>
> <<If I need to intercept and modify the MAF signal anyways, then I'd much
> rather swap to larger injectors than run the rising rate FPR or plumb in
> additional injectors.  It's much cleaner I think, doesn't have any bad
> sides that I can see (so long as I don't go so big it won't idle) and
> it's much more stealthy.  I'll have a much better chance of sliding this
> whole thing by the smog police if I don't have a huge regulator or extra
> fuel lines and injectors running everywhere.>>
>
> Damn skippy! That's how to do it. No aux injectors, no rising
> rate FPR, or any
> band-aids like that. Go with larger injectors, and fab up the dual-pot MAF
> sensor signal intercept. It's the cleanest low buck way to get
> the job done (in
> your case). You can mount the pots in your glovebox if you want!
> No SMOG check
> is going to get you if you make the wiring appear OEM (w/ OEM connectors,
> tie-wraps, etc.).
>
> I'm not so lucky. I'm in CA, and have to get the car SMOG checked
> every two
> years. I'll have to remove the ENTIRE custom turbo set-up:
> Electromotive TEC II,
> larger injectors, FPR, copper headgasket (have to raise the CR
> back up to 10:1),
> 3" exhaust & 3" downpipe, J-pipe, all plumbing, all TEC II
> wiring, install an
> OEM wiring harness to the engine...ARRRGH!!!
>
> I guess I could use it as an excuse to swap in a freshly bored
> out short block,
> while I have the head off. Maybe upgrade to all forged pistons/rods. =)
>
> Anybody go to a SMOG referee station to get their car exempted? I
> can dial the
> emissions in to better than OEM w/ the TEC II and a laptop. Or, I
> could have a
> "SMOG" program just for it, w/ the EGR functioning as well. CA
> SMOG test is
> simple enough. They check the car at 900 rpm for 30 seconds, then
> 2500 rpm for
> 30 or 45 seconds, then check it again at 900 rpm. Visual
> inspection checks the
> fuel filler flap (so the car can't use leaded), the Cat, the EGR
> vacuum pump
> test, vacuum lines, and a watchful eye for any aftermarket goodies
> (turbo/NOS/SC, etc.). Thoughts on the SMOG ref station? If I
> didn't pass, the
> car would be VIN marked for life! =(
>
> Jason
> '93 SLC
>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 17:17:36 1999
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From: "Ward Spoonemore" <spoonie@deltanet.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: 4L80E / ALDL
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 14:19:26 -0800
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I thnk your project has merit, I also think the PIC chip is a winner for
this kind of application.
How bout dumping the data to a flash chip for use later, the real time
display is of limited use and you can eliminat all the junk in the the
truck.

I can probably help with the decoding, Ill check back.

Ward

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Niinikoski
> Juha
> Sent: Friday, March 05, 1999 4:45 AM
> To: 'DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'
> Subject: 4L80E / ALDL
>
>
> Hi
> I am new on the list and don't know if this is right place to start 4L80E
> TCM thread ?
>
> I have 97 N/A diesel Hummer with 4L80E electronic transmission. Some time
> ago I decided to try to build a display unit with what you can watch few
> most critical transmission parameters like temperature TCC slippage and
> possible clutch slippage. So far I have managed to hack ALDL interface and
> protocol. Of course this happened by the hard way. First I taught that
> Hummer 97 Implementation where OBD-II because of OBD-II like connector but
> it is ALDL 8192.
>
> I have build couple of display prototypes. One with Motorola HC12 CPU and
> 4x40 LCD display.HC12 contains also 8-channell A/D converter. I
> have plan to
> include some other measurements too.  Second one is really cheap
> build with
> Microchip PIC16F84 "washing machine" processor and 2x20 LCD. If anybody is
> interested I can provide more information about my projects.
>
>
> Where I need help.
> 1.
>  I am now stuck with decoding parameters what TCM provides. I have found
> most easy / evident ones like RPMs, temperature, selector
> switches etc. Most
> of the response data is still unknown for me. Do anyone have documents or
> more information about 4L80E ALDL commands / responses ?
>
> 2.
> What is the right way to start communication with TCM. I have figured out
> that read parameters command is F5 57 01 00 B3 but you need to
> give command
> twice first time. After ALDL bus have "woken up" you need only one command
> to get response. If you do not issue new commands within about one second
> bus goes to sleep mode again. Are there some sort of wake up
> procedure or is
> this (sending first command two times) right way to do it ?
>
> Juha Niinikoski
> Espoo Finland
> 97 N/A Diesel Hummer
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 19:05:20 1999
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From: Padgett 0sirius <padgett@gdi.net>
Subject: Re: Handheld O-Scope
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Have to agree, when accurate measurements are essential, go with quality
and the standards are Tek and HP. I have several Teks, all bought from
surplus. 900 series is nice to carry around but a 7603 onna cart won't lie.
I play with tube radios but tools are all solid state. 

At 10:00 AM 3/5/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Any scope is better than no scope, but the rule of thumb
>is that the scope BW oughta be 5X the signal of interest.

      	A. Padgett Peterson, P.E. Cybernetic Psychophysicist
 Anti-Virus, Cryptographics, & Antique Radio Researcher
http://www.freivald.org/~padgett/index.html
 mailto:padgett@gdi.net     PGP 5.5 Key on request


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 19:41:21 1999
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There's a place that specializes in surplus LCD displays, www.eio.com. 
Also some other surplus stuff, but mostly LCD.

--steve

cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu wrote:
> 
> help ..
> 
> someone gave me the name of an online place from whom I got
> LED and LCD DPMs for something line $6.00 each.  They had lots
> of good stuff cheeeep!  Now I can't find their address (lost their
> bookmark somehow).
> 
> I know about Newark, Digikey, Mouser, Hosfelt, MCM ...
> 
> (you can see my automotive and electronic links at
>         http://www.austin.cc.tx.us./ESA/tc_auto.html )
> 
> thanks
> Tom Cloud <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 20:40:30 1999
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From: "David Sagers" <dls2867@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Which Intake
Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 17:27:18 PST
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There are some pretty smart people on this list and I need some help.  
I'm building a 434 ci twin turbo small block chevy, waste gates set at 
12 psi, mild turbo cam, EFI, 8.5:1 compression and Brodix Track I heads, 
215cc intake ports.  It's going in a stock '81 Corvette, about 3,600 
lbs.

I was going to use some wildly ported Bowtie "101" heads and a matching 
intake, but the engine builder said the heads and intake were way too 
big for a streetable engine that needs lots of torque on the bottom end.  
He said the big ports and intake would kill throttle response in the 
lower (streetable) RPM range and that off idle would be clumsy.  

My question is then what kind of intake would anyone recommend.  I want 
a car that is fun to drive on the street by making gobs of low end 
torque, but still be be able to run with the big blocks on the top end.

I like the idea of using an existing EFI system as it saves me many $$ 
if I don't have to pay to have a manifold drilled, welded & converted to 
EFI, but building this right the first time is more important than 
saving money.

I've looked at the GM TPI system, but since it was designed for a 305 
ci, and runs out of breathing by 4500 RPM on a stock 305/350 small 
block, I figure it's way too small for 434ci.  I've also considered 
something like the Lingenfelter(sp)and the Accel TPI systems.  Most of 
these are suppose to be good for 5,800 RPM on a 350 SBC, and I wonder if 
they are big enough.  Are the bigger volumes in the after market systems 
enough to feed a 434 engine in the low RPM range with the turbos pushing 
enough air through the TPI system to run the engine up to 6,500 RPM?

Is there another system out there that I should consider?

Thanks for your help.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 20:41:52 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: injector drivers
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References: <006301be6595$d236ece0$ab6334d1@bytedesigns.com>
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Yes I have a very few left for emergency purposes, if you are in need send
me a mail off line.

Sandy

At 02:10 PM 3/3/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Sandy designed a driver board that is useful for injectors or ignition
>coils for the efi332 project.  There are probably some spares floating
>around...  It incorporates a 1949 for peak/hold functions but works OK
>as a saturated type driver as well.
>
>--steve
>
>"Clarence L.Snyder" wrote:
>> 
>> What is the simplest way to drive a set of ford V8 injectors from a
>> digital signal ? I want something readily available (not unobtanium
>> plated special parts) and inexpensive, that is simple to implement,
>> test, and repair if necessary
>
>-- 
>Steve Ravet
>steve.ravet@arm.com
>Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
>www.arm.com


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 21:10:43 1999
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Some time back, a group was working on the honda sourced, NTK sensor
electronics. Did it get finished?
I would like to swap all the [ info/software/circuit.design LSM11 ] stuff for
the NTK/Honda stuff, if it was finalised. 
The LSM11 stuff is mature and final - tested against Motec and Bosch LA1.

Thanks
Peter.

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 21:42:14 1999
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I just killed two memcals in one day pulling them out and putting them back in
and pulling them out .......etc.
Where do I get ZIF sockets and EPROMs so I can do this without ruining pins
and sockets?
Does anyone have any left over after buying in quantity?
Would anybody be interested in some if I have to buy a minimum order's worth?

Thanks for any direction,
Ted

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 23:23:37 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: "DIY_EFI" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 90  6cyl  bin
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 23:26:33 -0500
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Some time ago someone was looking for 730 type 6 cylinder bins.
well if you need ID #88 (at 0008) I got a couple.
Bruce 


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  5 23:40:36 1999
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-----Original Message-----
From: Tedscj@aol.com <Tedscj@aol.com>
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 9:51 PM
Subject: Wher to get ZIFs and EPROMs?

I'd try Digi-Key, or Newark
get the ZIF with the long leads, and don't worry about getting it under the
cover,
if you do lots of proms accesss is the word, IMHO
For used proms call Sherri at (407) 727-8817
Bruce


>I just killed two memcals in one day pulling them out and putting them back
in
>and pulling them out .......etc.
>Where do I get ZIF sockets and EPROMs so I can do this without ruining pins
>and sockets?
>Does anyone have any left over after buying in quantity?
>Would anybody be interested in some if I have to buy a minimum order's
worth?
>
>Thanks for any direction,
>Ted
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Mar  6 00:52:33 1999
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Date: Sat, 6 Mar 1999 16:52:26 +1100 (EST)
From: Benjamin Marsh <bmarsh@turing.une.edu.au>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Miss in 87 Subaru RX
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I have an 1987 subaru RX with the mpfi turbo engine.
The problem occurs when the engine is at normal operating
temperature but not always - driving along at moderate
loads and higher the car sometimes misses, backing off
doesn't fix the problem and the car eventually rolls to
a stop. If I wait until the car cools down sufficiently
it goes again just fine - until it heats up. There is also
a fair amount of fuel smoke associated with the car stopping
which leads me to believe it is an ignition problem.

Over the past 6 months this has happened three times.
1st I replaced the O2 sensor - problem went away.
2nd I replaced the O2 sensor - problem went away, until
that evening when it happened again - I replaced spark plugs
and again problem went away, that was about 6 weeks ago
now it has happened again...

I have a computer fault code of 33 which corresponds to
a speed sensor malfunction, no other fault codes show up
the SS fault shows up all the time, when the car misses though
the ECS light flashes on and off - the speed sensor is still the
only fault code shown. Last time it happened I had a boost gauge
in the car which showed that during the miss I was getting full
boost at full throttle even though the tach was showing at below
1000rpm this indicates I am still getting fuel into the engine
which is going through into the exhaust and spooling the turbo.

Does anybody have any idea what could possibly be causing this?

BTW my local Subaru dealer has no idea - he says he has less
of an idea than I do due to not having seen one of these cars
before I brought it to him...

Thank you for your help

Ben Marsh

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Mar  6 01:43:29 1999
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Date: Sat, 06 Mar 1999 01:34:45 -0500
From: Scott Schaaf <sschaaf@ERINet.com>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Miss in 87 Subaru RX
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I have heard that in some GM trucks, if the speed sensor is
disconnected,  the fuel mixture will go REAL rich.  I don't think that
it could go rich enough to kill the car,  but then again,,, who knows
for SURE!

  May want to take a good look at the speed sensor!

					Good Luck,
						Scott....


Benjamin Marsh wrote:
> 
> I have an 1987 subaru RX with the mpfi turbo engine.
> The problem occurs when the engine is at normal operating
> temperature but not always - driving along at moderate
> loads and higher the car sometimes misses, backing off
> doesn't fix the problem and the car eventually rolls to
> a stop. If I wait until the car cools down sufficiently
> it goes again just fine - until it heats up. There is also
> a fair amount of fuel smoke associated with the car stopping
> which leads me to believe it is an ignition problem.
> 
> Over the past 6 months this has happened three times.
> 1st I replaced the O2 sensor - problem went away.
> 2nd I replaced the O2 sensor - problem went away, until
> that evening when it happened again - I replaced spark plugs
> and again problem went away, that was about 6 weeks ago
> now it has happened again...
> 
> I have a computer fault code of 33 which corresponds to
> a speed sensor malfunction, no other fault codes show up
> the SS fault shows up all the time, when the car misses though
> the ECS light flashes on and off - the speed sensor is still the
> only fault code shown. Last time it happened I had a boost gauge
> in the car which showed that during the miss I was getting full
> boost at full throttle even though the tach was showing at below
> 1000rpm this indicates I am still getting fuel into the engine
> which is going through into the exhaust and spooling the turbo.
> 
> Does anybody have any idea what could possibly be causing this?
> 
> BTW my local Subaru dealer has no idea - he says he has less
> of an idea than I do due to not having seen one of these cars
> before I brought it to him...
> 
> Thank you for your help
> 
> Ben Marsh

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Mar  6 08:55:08 1999
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Date: Sat, 06 Mar 1999 08:46:07 -0800
From: rr <RRauscher@nni.com>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Voltage controller?
References: <199903051915.MAA18905@user2.inficad.com>
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OK, finally got into this site (it can be reeeaaallll slow). This is
an interesting pump. Basically, it is a solenoid driven pump. Figure
a bicycle pump with a magnetic solenoid pulling back the rod, then a
powerful spring returning the rod to the original position to pump.
The pump stroke is run at about 50Hz.

There are electronics built into the pump itself, no separate
controller.
According to the schematic, the input siganl is just an on/off as the
water is required. They use a pressure switch.

Bottom line,  Dan, I don't think that you need anything else to drive
this pump. It's all self-contained...

BobR.

Daniel Houlton wrote:
> 
> rr wrote:
> >
> > I'm having some trouble following what you are saying. Can you post the
> > URL for the Aqua-mist site?
> 
> Sorry, I meant to include that but forgot.
> 
> http://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/sys1/sys1a.html#pump
> 
> That's the paragraph where they say it's controlled by frequency.  Follow
> the "TECH-LINK" link at the end of the paragraph to get to the pump specs.
> 
> > It sounds like the pump itself has some sort of controller built in,
> > that needs another controller to run?
> 
> That's the way it sounds.  Reading the paragraph more closely, it does
> state that it uses an on-board electronic controller.
> 
> The "TECH" page says "pressure and delivery rate is regulated by internal
> hi-tech electronic circuitry".  Then the specs at the bottom say it takes
> a 14V, 8A power source and a 0-12V, 5mA digital signal.  Maybe it does
> just take a 0-12V voltage signal and convert it to PWM internally?  That's
> kinda what it's starting to look like again.
> 
> The word "digital" on the spec for the signal input is what made me think
> is used a PWM signal.  Maybe it's just a buzz-word or marketing thing to
> make it sound fancier and it just uses a plain analog voltage signal?
> 
> thanks
> --Dan



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Mar  6 08:55:16 1999
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Date: Sat, 06 Mar 1999 08:51:42 -0800
From: rr <RRauscher@nni.com>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Wher to get ZIFs and EPROMs?
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I've a bunch of EPROMS that I'll sell:

	NMC27C256Q-250

These are National Semiconductor 256's, CMOS, quartz windows, at
250ns access. They are pulls that I purchased from Astro Marketing.
If these will do, $1 @ plus ship. I have 30 that I can sell.

I'm posting this so that maybe someone can help as to the access time,
I don't know if these are correct for Ted's application.

Nationals Web site has all the programming algo's for their EPROMS.

BobR.


Tedscj@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I just killed two memcals in one day pulling them out and putting them back in
> and pulling them out .......etc.
> Where do I get ZIF sockets and EPROMs so I can do this without ruining pins
> and sockets?
> Does anyone have any left over after buying in quantity?
> Would anybody be interested in some if I have to buy a minimum order's worth?
> 
> Thanks for any direction,
> Ted


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Mar  6 09:37:23 1999
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From: "Ezra Hall" <ehall@together.net>
To: <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: DME EPROM Editor Software
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 1999 09:39:50 -0500
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Folks,
Check out the following URL:
http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com/dmeedit.html

I downloaded the demo software, and was able to view EPROM data from my
Motronic unit. The demo software doesn't allow saving of data. I have sent a
request for pricing info.

Enjoy!
Ezra Hall


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Mar  6 11:54:01 1999
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@oh.verio.com>
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I plumb an old car A/C condenser in the air line.  For painting cars, I put
a bag of ice on it.  It condenses all the liquid water out of the air.  The
two separators I have fill up quickly.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>


>Let me second Jim's comment. Keep the sand Dry! I had a lot
>of problems with my pressurized sandblaster clogging. It was
>caused by moisture in the compressed air.
