From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  8 14:53:05 1999
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From: Paul   Ko <pko@engr.ucdavis.edu>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Haltech, MSD, 13B-REW
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I have a set of baffling problems which I would like to ask this list.  
But let me start by describing my setup and some assumptions.

I have a rx7 rotary engine, 13B-REW, setup with a Haltech E6A management 
system.  I am using the stock factory rx7 magnetic trigger pickups on the 
E-shaft.  Two MSD "signal stabilizers" are used, one for the home 
magnetic pickup and one for the synchro.  These "signal stabilizers" 
changes the output of the magnetic pickup to a square-wave, which is the 
only input the E6A can use.
All three coils at fired by MSD spark boxes, one for each coil.  The MSD 
spark boxes are fired thru the white wire directly from the Haltech 
ignition output.  

Settings on Haltech:
Both input triggers: rising
Ignition output: rising
Output constant duty:   30%
trigger pickup 67 degrees BTC
multitooth    24
tooth offset    5

Problem:
I cannot get the timing light to fire at the timing mark on the pulley 
wheel.  I means the ignition is off, way off.  The mark is ~45 degrees 
before where it should be.  Strange thing with the rotary engine is that 
it still runs even if the timing is way off.  The car runs but 
inconsistently with misfires.

Assumptions:
1.  I am assuming the inductive pickup on the timing gun is correct.  
I've read somewhere that the inductive pickups on timing guns has 
problems reading a coil fired by a MSD spark box.  
2.  The MSD spark boxes fire from a rising edge thru the white wire.  I 
assumed this because the testing procedure for testing spark on the box 
is to ground the white wire and release it and the coil fires 
instantaneously on the release.
3.  The MSD 8509 signal stabilizer is getting and outputing the correct 
signals.  The instructions which came with this MSD 8509 is a joke.  I am 
assuming the 8509 inputs a rising magnetic trigger wave, ie, a sine wave 
with a fall, rise, fall signal where the trigger point is at the rise.  
The problem may be that the mazda signal is a falling wave, ie, rise, 
fall, rise signal where the trigger point is at the fall.  I've tried 
reversing these leads to the 8509 and still the timing gun is still ~40 
degrees off the mark.  So which one is right, because the engine runs 
either way the leads are hooked up.
I assumed the 8509 outputs a rising square-wave because thats what the 
unit is originally designed for, to fire a MSD spark box directly.
4.  I am assuming the setting on the Haltech timing numbers is right.  
Those numbers are supposed to be off another running 13B-REW.  However, I 
don't want to change these numbers until I know the correct setup of the 
8509 and MSD spark box triggers.

Thanks, your help is greatly appreciated.

Paul Ko
pko@mindspring.com
http://www.mindspring.com/~pko
 
Formula SAE UCDavis Team Captain 
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~fsae






From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  8 15:29:18 1999
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Subject: Re: Torque measurement
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 15:26:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <D3286A3F9D0ED111A2C40080D8700D980138488A@cccntxch02.ceco.com> from "Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com" at Apr 8, 99 01:09:52 pm
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> 
> Since the motor mounts are connected to the block , you need to rotate the
> block to compress the load cell not the crank.
> The hardest part with this method is figuring out the scale in foot pounds.
> Usually load cells are calibrated with certified weights hung from a known
> length, usually a 1 foot long bar, hence 'foot- pound'  I don't know how you
> could calculate the moment of movement that the block would place on the
> load cell. I would guess if you bolted a 1 foot bar on the engine at the
> center line of the crank and placed a 1 pound weight on the end of the bar,
> you would be able to calibrate the load cell out put for 1 foot Lb. Of
> course you would 
> want to cal it to 300 ft.Lbs or what you think the engine would put out. If
> you use a 2 foot bar then 1 pound on the end would apply a force of  2 foot
> Lbs. This would save some cal weight. Your idea is  excellent  and should
> give some good results. Another way to read the torque would be to connect a
> load cell to the block about where the front freeze plug is, and the other
> end to the frame. This will make a solid motor mount that might damage the
> Trans case if you torque it to hard. You might want to try this using the
> same cal procedure, and if it works go to the mount system.     


except the bar has weight
better to place it vertical and use a scale to get the weight required
a 5" bar and 80 lbs pull would be 400 ft lbs

Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  8 16:03:02 1999
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Subject: Re: 302 or 460 build up
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 15:01:01 -0500
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Gosh the 460 [actually a 7.5] is a little bit much for a "light" car! :)
Sure would be fun to drive though. The constant replacement of melted tires
would get expensive <laughing>.

Why not consider a 351? The 351 is a bit more durable than a 302, and the
last time I drove a 351 I sure noticed quite a bit more low end than a 302.



----- Original Message -----
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
To: diyefi <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 1999 11:53 AM
Subject: 302 or 460 build up


> Hi All;
>  This isn't strickly efi but efi will go on it so..
> I'm getting a 302 ( 5.0L) or a 460 (7.3L) to build for a light car
> Hp isn't what I'm after I want torque ( more fun, less tickets)
>
> what would you guys suggest for around 300hp and lotsa grunt( the 460 will
> be closer to 400hp)
>
> Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
> QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
> (613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews
> (613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  8 16:13:27 1999
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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 14:12:24 -0600 (MDT)
From: Matt Beaubien <mbeaubie@gpu.srv.ualberta.ca>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Engine load vs RPM and torque
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Greg,

> >I'd like to be able to input the weights of the piston and rod, and the
> >torque value to obtain their loadings. Most people will tell you the largest
> >loads are seen on the exhuast stroke at TDC,
> 
> This is in tension---
> 
>  but that doesn't explain why
> >those turbo Honda's start bending rods at 10 psi...
> 
> This is instability under compressive loading (column failure.

I realize the difference, even though my first year statics course was 5
years ago ;-). What I'm getting at is most references say that the tension
loads are so much greater that you don't have to worry about the compressive
loads. Not so when artificial aspiration or severe knock is encountered.

> Aluminium is not good for SUSTAINED high revs because of no fixed endurance
> limit in tension.

Drag racers sure can get away with a lot that OEM's or even oval/road racers
can't. Are you uncomfortable driving cars with Al suspension pieces due to
no endurance limit...?

Matt Beaubien
mbeaubie@ualberta.ca
3 x 510
1 x 300ZXT


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  8 16:29:58 1999
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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 13:28:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stuart Hastings <stuart@hal.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #216
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I'm interested in improving the performance of my boat.

The boat engine is a 1988-model Chevy 4.3L V6, with a 2bbl carburetor. 
This is an early 4.3L V6, with no balance shaft, and no roller tappets. 
Outboard Marine Corp, my engines' "marinizer," rated it at 175 crankshaft
HP or 160 propshaft HP. (Current practice is to rate boat engine HP at the
prop.)  OMC also offered this engine with a 4bbl carburetor, and claimed
205 crankshaft HP for it. I checked with OMC, and the carb/intake is the
ONLY difference between these engines. OMC has confirmed that the 4bbl
setup will add 30HP to my engine.  (I recall compression as
8.4:1(?unsure), and OMC specifies 89 octane gas.) My particular engine has
about 220 hours, and seems to have been well cared-for;  compression is
still about 165psi in all cylinders.

I've done some preliminary queries, and discovered I can buy a used 4bbl
carburetor + manifold for about $350, plus shipping and miscellaneous
expenses (gaskets, carb rebuild kit, new throttle linkage). Probably $450
total by the time I'm done.

I'm thinking if a lousy carburetor is so expensive, what about using EFI? 
I scanned the DIY-EFI archives for 4.3L, and discovered the preferred 4.3L
EFI is the extremely rare SFI used on the Syclone, and the almost-as-good
second-best is the CIS (one injector, six ports). However, the CIS system
seems to have an aluminum intake manifold, so I don't think I can use it
without the added expense of "fresh-water" cooling. Volvo and MerCruiser
sell V6 engines with TBI EFI, but these are much newer and rarer than
4bbls, so I haven't even bothered asking about junked ones. 

If you're not a boater, please understand that most cheap boats use
low-pressure lake water for cooling, and ignore the consequent slow
digestion of the iron block. Really. In the Real World, most boat engines
die of neglect long before they rust away anyway. A side-effect of
"raw-water" cooled engines is their use of very-low-temperature
thermostats; since the cooling water is almost unpressurized, a 160F
thermostat lessens the likelihood of steam bubbles and burned valves.

Another unique boat engine problem is the exhaust. Most marinized car
engines have water-jacketed exhaust manifolds, because anything as hot as
an exhaust manifold is a fire hazard on a boat. I think this means that an
EGO is pretty much out of the question on a boat engine, but I presume
most EFI systems can be made to run OK open-loop if I'm not concerned
about absolute maximum performance. Most sterndrive systems exhaust
underwater through the propeller hub because a) it's cool and safe, b)
it's quiet, c) water flow will vacuum exhaust from the engine while
running at speed. I don't think the boat exhaust system is a significant
restriction for this V6 engine; does anyone on the list know otherwise?

I presume that adding an aluminum CIS intake manifold to my
raw-water-cooled engine will turn it into a giant battery :-) with
accellerated galvanic corrosion.  It's possible to fit these engines with
a (misnamed)  "fresh-water cooling"  system, consisting of a heat
exchanger, extra plumbing, automotive coolant, and a 180F thermostat, but
that's another $300-$500 investment. The higher running temperature is
good for combustion efficiency, oil life, and engine durability, but many
such boat engines will require an oil cooler too (still more $$). This is
all a little extravagant for a motor that runs about 50 hours per year in
fresh (non-salt) water. 

I don't know what the Syclone/SFI manifold is made of, but I presume it's
rare enough in junkyards that it's not a realistic candidate. That brings
me to TBI. I gather (from reading the DIY-EFI archives &etc) that
balance-shaft V6 TBI systems are fairly common (read "cheap") in
junkyards; they were used in El Caminos, Caprices, and Astros. I haven't
actually seen one, so I don't know if the intake manifold is Aluminum or
Iron. Said donor vehicles probably all have balance shafts underneath
their intake manifolds, and roller camshafts for reduced friction.
However, I see no reason why a balance shaft manifold won't fit my ... 
"unbalanced" :-) V6 block and heads. Alas, the existing GM roller tappets
won't fit in my block; if I really wanted a roller cam, the easiest route
would be to marinize a "Vortec" engine myself. I'll guess there are a few
V6 aftermarket roller cams, and I'll guess they're pretty expensive too. 
In the long run, it would probably be more cost-effective to trade for a
newer boat. 

Currently-offered V6 sterndrives (MerCruiser & Volvo) are still Chevy V6s
with balance shafts, roller cams, 9.4:1 compression, and 2bbl/4bbl/TBI
fuel systems, and are rated at 190/205/210 propshaft HP when turning
4400/4600/4600 RPM. Assuming the 15HP crank-to-prop overhead in my own
sterndrive, this would suggest approximately 205/220/225 crankshaft HP for
these modern marinized V6s. For compaison, the 1988 non-balance-shaft V6s
had 2bbl/4bbl intakes, and were rated at 175/205 crankshaft HP when
turning 4400/4600 RPM. It also suggests the roller cam and newer heads
("Vortec"?) of the modern engines are worth 30HP all by themselves.

The MerCruiser TBI system claims to have a "water cooled fuel system"; I
don't know what that is, or why it's necessary on a boat (where under-hood
temps are probably much cooler than a typical car). Does anyone know what
this is, and why it's necessary (IMHO, Mercury wouldn't fit this if it
wasn't *absolutely* necessary). 

I'll interject something about my own capabilities here. I'm a programmer
by trade, and while it sounds fun to disassemble ROMs and tweak BL tables
with a laptop while under way, I don't have time for such a big project.
EFI for my boat is only feasible if I can get a stock system from a junked
car that will tolerate the marine environment and "bolt-up" readily.
Ideally, I'd like to buy a complete system from one donor car, including
distributor, intake, TBI, computer, sensors, and fuel pump.  I can
probably deal with some throttle bracket fabrication, new fuel lines, and
I think I can add a fuel pump to my boat's gas tank. However, if an EFI
project gets any bigger, I can't handle it at this stage of my life (I
have four kids, oldest is 8; they are why I have the boat :-). 

Since the point of this project is to increase HP, there's no point in
pursuing it unless the generic GM TBI system would supply 200+ crankshaft
HP from my unbalanced, non-roller-cam V6. 

1. Are GM 4.3L V6 TBI systems capable of 200+ HP?

2. Is the GM 4.3L V6 TBI manifold made of Aluminum or Iron (or Plastic?).

3. I presume the standard TBI in-tank pump needs some baffling; what
*exactly* is required? Can I swipe the tank-wall fitting (probably steel)
from a TBI car and modify it for my boats aluminum gas tank?

4. Automotive carburetors typically vent bowl fumes externally. Marine
carbs vent bowl fumes into the carb intake (above the butterflys), so
fumes don't collect in the bilge and explode. I presume that a
properly-installed TBI system won't leak gas or fumes into the bilge.
Correct? 

5. My Prestolite non-electronic "marine" distributor has fine metal
screening glued over the bottom vent holes. Can I "marinize" an electronic
TBI distributor by duplicating this screening? A distributorless system
elegantly avoids this, but then I presume I need the flywheel pickup that
may or may not fit my heavy, clutchless marine flywheel. And my marine
bellhousing probably doesn't have any provision for a crank sensor either.

6. Are there any blatant misconceptions in my thinking, outlined above?

7. If an appropriate TBI system exists (cheap, powerful,
marine-compatible), what donor cars should I look for?

8. Would I be smarter to grit my teeth and buy a used 4bbl for $450?

9. Would I be smarter yet to forget the whole project, because the
existing 2bbl works fine, and an additional 30HP (17%)  won't improve the
boat's performance by very much ;-) ?

My research so far has been a few Fuel Injection books, and the DIY-EFI
archives, and the DIY-EFI stuff is much more useful. I'm very impressed
with the depth of the technical discussions on this list; thus far, the
price of my research has been inversely proportional to its value :-)  . 

Thanks in advance,

stuart hastings
stuart@hastings.org






From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  8 16:59:22 1999
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From: "Jim Yeagley" <jimyeagley@stratos.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 302 or 460 build up
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 16:45:41 -0400
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Pat,

I wouldn't expect a whole lot of torque from the 302.  It's got a pretty
short stroke, 3" I think, and short stroke motors are typically made for
high revving, upper rpm horsepower.  Not to say you can't get low end from
it, but it would not be cost effective.

The 460 spells torque.  If you want to stick with the Windsor engine
family(302), why not go with a 351W?  It's pretty much a stroked 302,
slightly taller and wider, but most 302 bracketry will bolt right up.  Plus,
considering the popularity of the 5.0l Mustang, go fast goodies are
plentiful.

Jim Yeagley
1996 Dodge Indy Ram
See it and many others at: www.indyram.org
1975 Pontiac Grandville Brougham Conv. (in baskets)
webmaster@indyram.org
jimyeagley@stratos.net

-----Original Message-----


>Hi All;
> This isn't strickly efi but efi will go on it so..
>I'm getting a 302 ( 5.0L) or a 460 (7.3L) to build for a light car
>Hp isn't what I'm after I want torque ( more fun, less tickets)
>
>what would you guys suggest for around 300hp and lotsa grunt( the 460 will
>be closer to 400hp)



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  8 17:00:15 1999
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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 14:00:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andre Grandi <ferrariformulauno@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Ceramic turbocharger info source??
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Mike

The listing I have for CT-20 turbos does'nt tell me which ones are ceramic or not. 
Hope this helps,most of these are Japanese only cars:


All Toyota
85 Corolla
85 Corolla Diesel
85,86,87 4 Runner
85 Crown
85 Pickup
86,87 Camry
88 4X2 and 4x4
88 Sport Truck

Also check out the Japanese Lexus SC300, they made a twin turbo version of this
inline motor for Japan only that had 2 ceramic turbos..
Good luck!

--- ECMnut@aol.com wrote:
> Andre,
> please give me some details on the CT-20..  I have an EFI project
> that could benifit from it.  What engines/cars was it in?
> All I can find are CT-26's
> TIA
> Mike V
> 
> In a message dated 4/7/99 5:21:00 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
> ferrariformulauno@yahoo.com writes:
> 
> >  All the toyota CT-20/26's that I have seen and rebuilt were with steel 
> > shafts. We used to 
> >  make a T3 fit in a Toyota turbo since you cannot buy individual components 
> > from Toyota. They
> 
> 

===

Andre
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  8 18:06:52 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Torque measurement
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 17:05:35 -0500 
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You are correct. I should have said make the bar 2 foot long, drill a hole
dead center,bolt it center line with the crank,  then hang the weight on the
end in the direction of torque reaction.That way the bar weight is balanced
and does not affect the over all torque. 

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020
> [SMTP:clive@problem.tantech.com]
> Sent:	Thursday, April 08, 1999 2:27 PM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: Torque measurement
> 
> > 
> > Since the motor mounts are connected to the block , you need to rotate
> the
> > block to compress the load cell not the crank.
> > The hardest part with this method is figuring out the scale in foot
> pounds.
> > Usually load cells are calibrated with certified weights hung from a
> known
> > length, usually a 1 foot long bar, hence 'foot- pound'  I don't know how
> you
> > could calculate the moment of movement that the block would place on the
> > load cell. I would guess if you bolted a 1 foot bar on the engine at the
> > center line of the crank and placed a 1 pound weight on the end of the
> bar,
> > you would be able to calibrate the load cell out put for 1 foot Lb. Of
> > course you would 
> > want to cal it to 300 ft.Lbs or what you think the engine would put out.
> If
> > you use a 2 foot bar then 1 pound on the end would apply a force of  2
> foot
> > Lbs. This would save some cal weight. Your idea is  excellent  and
> should
> > give some good results. Another way to read the torque would be to
> connect a
> > load cell to the block about where the front freeze plug is, and the
> other
> > end to the frame. This will make a solid motor mount that might damage
> the
> > Trans case if you torque it to hard. You might want to try this using
> the
> > same cal procedure, and if it works go to the mount system.     
> 
> 
> except the bar has weight
> better to place it vertical and use a scale to get the weight required
> a 5" bar and 80 lbs pull would be 400 ft lbs
> 
> Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  8 19:26:31 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: RE: Torque measurement
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>Since the motor mounts are connected to the block , you need to rotate the
>block to compress the load cell not the crank.
>The hardest part with this method is figuring out the scale in foot pounds.
>Usually load cells are calibrated with certified weights hung from a known
>length, usually a 1 foot long bar, hence 'foot- pound'  I don't know how you
>could calculate the moment of movement that the block would place on the
>load cell. I would guess if you bolted a 1 foot bar on the engine at the
>center line of the crank and placed a 1 pound weight on the end of the bar,
>you would be able to calibrate the load cell out put for 1 foot Lb. Of
>course you would
>want to cal it to 300 ft.Lbs or what you think the engine would put out. If
>you use a 2 foot bar then 1 pound on the end would apply a force of  2 foot
>Lbs. This would save some cal weight. Your idea is  excellent  and should
>give some good results. Another way to read the torque would be to connect a
>load cell to the block about where the front freeze plug is, and the other
>end to the frame. This will make a solid motor mount that might damage the
>Trans case if you torque it to hard. You might want to try this using the
>same cal procedure, and if it works go to the mount system.
>
>Don
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From:	Ord Millar [SMTP:ord@aei.ca]
>> Sent:	Thursday, April 08, 1999 8:49 AM
>> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>> Subject:	Torque measurement
>>
>> I have some strain guages that I was thinking of attaching to my motor
>> mounts, the idea being to measure the torque output of the engine.  I want
>> to calibrate it by imobilizing the crank relative to the block, and then
>> using a torque wrench to apply a know torque in the oposite direction at
>> the
>> crank pulley bolt.
>>
>> Is there a reason why this won't work?  It seems too easy...

Well--you would be measuring the torque output of the TRANSMISSION, not the
engine--so you would need to calibrate the thing a fair amount higher for
the low gears. Look at the engine-tranny package as a black box to
visualize why this is so. And calibrating with a bar stuck through the
output yoke, with the tranny in gear, might be a lot easier approach.

Greg
>>
>>



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  8 20:09:15 1999
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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 18:07:38 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Engine load vs RPM and torque
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>Greg,
>
>> >I'd like to be able to input the weights of the piston and rod, and the
>> >torque value to obtain their loadings. Most people will tell you the largest
>> >loads are seen on the exhuast stroke at TDC,
>>
>> This is in tension---
>>
>>  but that doesn't explain why
>> >those turbo Honda's start bending rods at 10 psi...
>>
>> This is instability under compressive loading (column failure.
>
>I realize the difference, even though my first year statics course was 5
>years ago ;-). What I'm getting at is most references say that the tension
>loads are so much greater that you don't have to worry about the compressive
>loads. Not so when artificial aspiration or severe knock is encountered.
>
>> Aluminium is not good for SUSTAINED high revs because of no fixed endurance
>> limit in tension.
>
>Drag racers sure can get away with a lot that OEM's or even oval/road racers
>can't. Are you uncomfortable driving cars with Al suspension pieces due to
>no endurance limit...?
>

YES!! Also uncomfortable on ski lifts that use cast aluminium balancer arms
between sheaves on their towers!! Use a Ti alloy if weight is that big an
issue!! (Nothing beats cubic $$$$$!!)

Forged Al is OK in cyclic compressive loading (like a full floating wheel
hub), but, as much as I like the forged (6061 alloy) Alcoa wheels, even
they crack quite a lot in the wrong kind of service!

Regards, Greg

>Matt Beaubien
>mbeaubie@ualberta.ca
>3 x 510
>1 x 300ZXT



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  8 20:39:07 1999
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@oh.verio.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <Pine.A41.3.96.990407164018.92576A-100000@gpu4.srv.ualberta.ca>
Subject: Re: Engine load vs RPM and torque
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 19:42:54 -0400
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Inertia forces at TDC and BDC are easily calculated with a little trig.  Gas
pressure forces can be calculated by knowing compression and temperature
rise.  Also, knowing power, BMEP can be calculated and an indicator diagram
inferred.  It is generally accepted that maximum pressure occurs at 12 deg
ATDC.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>



> Hi all,
>
> This is a little off charter but is still related somewhat (especially to
> those with artificial aspiration.)
>
> I'm looking for some software or code (Matlab, Working Model etc...) that
> will allow me to calculate the loads seen by the piston, rod, etc for
> various torque/speed combinations. For instance, is it better to make 100
HP
> using 15 psi of boost at 5500 rpm or 100 HP at 6500 RPM using 7 psi of
> boost...
>
> I'd like to be able to input the weights of the piston and rod, and the
> torque value to obtain their loadings. Most people will tell you the
largest
> loads are seen on the exhuast stroke at TDC, but that doesn't explain why
> those turbo Honda's start bending rods at 10 psi...
>
> I have a small single cyl that I'm going to be putting a blower on. In
it's
> current configuration, the factory tells me additional revs will seriously
> comprimise reliability. OK, but with the blower, what is the ideal speed
for
> my desired HP?
>
> Repond off list if you feel compelled. Thanks.
>
>
> Matt Beaubien
> mbeaubie@ualberta.ca
> 3 x 510
> 1 x 300ZXT


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  8 20:39:07 1999
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References: <00a701be8200$c6995120$0100a8c0@jimyeagley>
Subject: Re: 302 or 460 build up
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 19:55:22 -0400
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How light?  I think a 460 will imbalance the car and spin tires at will.  It
won't make the car faster, unless light means 4500 lb.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
>
>
> >Hi All;
> > This isn't strickly efi but efi will go on it so..
> >I'm getting a 302 ( 5.0L) or a 460 (7.3L) to build for a light car
> >Hp isn't what I'm after I want torque ( more fun, less tickets)
> >
> >what would you guys suggest for around 300hp and lotsa grunt( the 460
will
> >be closer to 400hp)
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  8 20:38:55 1999
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Subject: Re: Torque measurement
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 19:39:07 -0400
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To apply a pure torque, use a T-handle.  Pull up on one side and push down
on the other.  Otherwise the force of the weight is also applied to the
engine.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>

Subject: Re: Torque measurement

>
>
> except the bar has weight
> better to place it vertical and use a scale to get the weight required
> a 5" bar and 80 lbs pull would be 400 ft lbs
>
> Clive


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  8 21:14:32 1999
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Subject: Re: Engine load vs RPM and torque
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In a message dated 4/8/99 8:11:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, bearbvd@sni.net 
writes:

> as much as I like the forged (6061 alloy) Alcoa wheels, even
>  they crack quite a lot in the wrong kind of service!
>  
>  Regards, Greg
>  

Well, I just HAVE to put my $.02 in!
When I was in the Army, we used two different types of wheels on our M60 
based tanks, steel and alum.  The steel wheels would bend frequently and need 
to be replaced when convenient, but the aluminum wheels ... they were 
constantly BREAKING and of course required immediate replacement if you 
didn't want to drive around on your hubs.
I have not been too fond of aluminum wheels ever since, no matter how 
'faddish' they may be.  ESPECIALLY on trucks.  I mean, what's the point?  Is 
the few pounds you save really going to help the handling with a live axle 
suspension?  But then most people with trucks (SUVs) these days won't ever 
see a dirt road, much less off-road, anyway.  But the idea of alum. wheels on 
a truck is stupid if you ask me.

Ted

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>>
>> Since the motor mounts are connected to the block , you need to rotate
the
>> block to compress the load cell not the crank.


My "plan" was to prevent the crank from rotating relative to the block, then
apply torque to the crank, and thus to the block.  Other than the fact that
my torque wrench is only good to +/- 2% or so, is there a problem with that?


>> The hardest part with this method is figuring out the scale in foot
pounds.
>> Usually load cells are calibrated with certified weights hung from a
known
>> length, usually a 1 foot long bar, hence 'foot- pound'  I don't know how
you
>> could calculate the moment of movement that the block would place on the
>> load cell. I would guess if you bolted a 1 foot bar on the engine at the
>> center line of the crank and placed a 1 pound weight on the end of the
bar,
>> you would be able to calibrate the load cell out put for 1 foot Lb. Of
>> course you would
>> want to cal it to 300 ft.Lbs or what you think the engine would put out.
If
>> you use a 2 foot bar then 1 pound on the end would apply a force of  2
foot
>> Lbs. This would save some cal weight. Your idea is  excellent  and should
>> give some good results. Another way to read the torque would be to
connect a
>> load cell to the block about where the front freeze plug is, and the
other
>> end to the frame. This will make a solid motor mount that might damage
the
>> Trans case if you torque it to hard. You might want to try this using the
>> same cal procedure, and if it works go to the mount system.
>

I think it would be extremely difficult to get a 2" long bar in the engine
bay with weights hanging on it, because there is not a lot of room.

>
>except the bar has weight
>better to place it vertical and use a scale to get the weight required
>a 5" bar and 80 lbs pull would be 400 ft lbs
>


That could work if I remove the hood.

I will try to glue one of the guages onto the mount, or onto the nut that
holds a mount, and see what kind of noise I get when the engine is running.
Calibration might be moot.



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  8 21:18:03 1999
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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 21:12:11 EDT
Subject: Re: 302 or 460 build up
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
>
>
> >Hi All;
> > This isn't strickly efi but efi will go on it so..
> >I'm getting a 302 ( 5.0L) or a 460 (7.3L) to build for a light car
> >Hp isn't what I'm after I want torque ( more fun, less tickets)
> >
> >what would you guys suggest for around 300hp and lotsa grunt( the 460
will
> >be closer to 400hp)
>

   Gary
  I want to cast my vote for a well built 302 rather than either a 351 or 460.
  A -- The 460 is too big and heavy for any light street car. 
  B -- The 351 is heavier and taller than the 302, and will get you about 17 
percent more HP than the 302.
  C -- The Windsor 351 heads can be installed on the 302. The block can be 
redrilled to accept the larger 351 stud diameter.
  D -- You can get a cam to provide you with the 'torque at RPM' that want. I 
bet that a stock cam , slightly advanced , will get you as much low RPM 
torque as any street machine you will ever try to impress.

   Just my 2 cents worth    Jerry


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  8 21:47:13 1999
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From: "David" <David_f_edwards@msn.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 302 or 460 build up
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 20:46:56 -0500
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Greetings,

I have to agree on the 351.  Look at the December 1998 issue of Hot Rod and
see the FI unit they built.

I would love to have this in my Lincoln.

David
-----Original Message-----
From: KD6JDJ@aol.com <KD6JDJ@aol.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 08, 1999 8:26 PM
Subject: Re: 302 or 460 build up


|Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
|>
|>
|> >Hi All;
|> > This isn't strickly efi but efi will go on it so..
|> >I'm getting a 302 ( 5.0L) or a 460 (7.3L) to build for a light car
|> >Hp isn't what I'm after I want torque ( more fun, less tickets)
|> >
|> >what would you guys suggest for around 300hp and lotsa grunt( the 460
|will
|> >be closer to 400hp)
|>
|
|   Gary
|  I want to cast my vote for a well built 302 rather than either a 351 or
460.
|  A -- The 460 is too big and heavy for any light street car.
|  B -- The 351 is heavier and taller than the 302, and will get you about
17
|percent more HP than the 302.
|  C -- The Windsor 351 heads can be installed on the 302. The block can be
|redrilled to accept the larger 351 stud diameter.
|  D -- You can get a cam to provide you with the 'torque at RPM' that want.
I
|bet that a stock cam , slightly advanced , will get you as much low RPM
|torque as any street machine you will ever try to impress.
|
|   Just my 2 cents worth    Jerry
|
|




From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  8 22:07:26 1999
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Matt Beaubien wrote:

> Greg,
>
> > >I'd like to be able to input the weights of the piston and rod, and the
> > >torque value to obtain their loadings. Most people will tell you the largest
> > >loads are seen on the exhuast stroke at TDC,
> >
> > This is in tension---
> >
> >  but that doesn't explain why
> > >those turbo Honda's start bending rods at 10 psi...
> >
> > This is instability under compressive loading (column failure.
>
> I realize the difference, even though my first year statics course was 5
> years ago ;-). What I'm getting at is most references say that the tension
> loads are so much greater that you don't have to worry about the compressive
> loads. Not so when artificial aspiration or severe knock is encountered.
>
> > Aluminium is not good for SUSTAINED high revs because of no fixed endurance
> > limit in tension.
>
> Drag racers sure can get away with a lot that OEM's or even oval/road racers
> can't. Are you uncomfortable driving cars with Al suspension pieces due to
> no endurance limit...?

I had a 440 Dodge that ate rod bearings over 7500 rpm. One rod came out bent in a
half moon shape, so short that the piston skirt was banging on the crank throws,
with 55 psi at idle. I also took many pieces of piston skirt out of a running turbo
motor after detonating. One set of full grove main bearings looked like they were
heated until putty like, then squeezed out by the crank.

My point is that rod failure can be caused by overloading the bearings... maybe the
Honda just doesn't have enough bearing surface area or crank diameter to handle the
power.

Sharpe


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  8 22:25:06 1999
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Pat Ford wrote:

> Hi All;
>  This isn't strickly efi but efi will go on it so..
> I'm getting a 302 ( 5.0L) or a 460 (7.3L) to build for a light car
> Hp isn't what I'm after I want torque ( more fun, less tickets)
>
> what would you guys suggest for around 300hp and lotsa grunt( the 460 will
> be closer to 400hp)

If you want something with "fear factor", go for a 512ci or so (stroked 460),
502ci FBC or 500ci HEMI. It keeps the women and children off the streets.
Raise the hood, start the motor, and crack the throttle - most people will run
for cover.

If you want a sleeper, the 302 blower/turbo  motors are lots of fun in a light
car, but the whistle/whine gives them away. 302 on a bottle is cheap, quiet,
and could be a money maker if they don't see the NOx bottle.

One of my personal favorites is an old 390 FE with dual quads, tell 'em it's a
427 and you won't have to run anybody. The other is the 412ci  351 Windsor
stroker. Tell 'em it's a 302, they'll think it's a 351 because of the deep
sound. Just get a good set of heads and don't win by more than a car length.

Last but not least is the 300ci 4"x4" 6 popper. it takes a lot of head work
(you can use cut up 351 heads) but it makes torque in spades and is almost
indestructable. Every UPS truck in the country has one. And they are
reasonably light.   I love to be different. Put a T04B on that!!!!

Sharpe


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Stuart Hastings wrote:

> I'm interested in improving the performance of my boat.
>
>
> I presume that adding an aluminum CIS intake manifold to my
> raw-water-cooled engine will turn it into a giant battery :-) with
> accellerated galvanic corrosion.

Have the manifold HPC coated inside and out !  TomS


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  8 22:48:37 1999
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From: "Ord Millar" <ord@aei.ca>
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-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 08, 1999 10:30 PM
Subject: RE: Torque measurement


<SNIP>

>
>Well--you would be measuring the torque output of the TRANSMISSION, not the
>engine--so you would need to calibrate the thing a fair amount higher for
>the low gears. Look at the engine-tranny package as a black box to
>visualize why this is so. And calibrating with a bar stuck through the
>output yoke, with the tranny in gear, might be a lot easier approach.
>
>Greg


Hmmmm(n).  I uderstand what you are saying, but if the transmission is in
neutral, and I open the throttle, the engine rotates oposite to the crank
direction.  There is no output from the transmission... Is this just the
energy that is being stored in the flywheel causing this oposite reaction,
or am I more lost than I think?

Ord



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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #216
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Stuart,
the Syclone & later vortec truck 4.3's had aluminum intakes. 
You can have'em coated though.  Also, the Syclone/Typhoon
V6 is MPFI, not SFI.  It fires all 6 injectors at once.  For
a port injection setup, you could use an intake manifold
and fuel injector hardware from a 93-99? 4.3 H.O. V6 which
 was a popular option in the S-trucks.   It has nice long 
torquey runners..  The EMC used in Syclones was the 87-90 
turbo sunbird (1227749) unit.  Can we talk you into a blower
or a turbo?  The chip already exists..  8-)
HTH
Mike V


>  I'm thinking if a lousy carburetor is so expensive, what about using EFI? 
>  I scanned the DIY-EFI archives for 4.3L, and discovered the preferred 4.3L
>  EFI is the extremely rare SFI used on the Syclone, and the almost-as-good
>  second-best is the CIS (one injector, six ports). However, the CIS system
>  seems to have an aluminum intake manifold, so I don't think I can use it
>  without the added expense of "fresh-water" cooling. Volvo and MerCruiser
>  sell V6 engines with TBI EFI, but these are much newer and rarer than
>  4bbls, so I haven't even bothered asking about junked ones. 


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr  8 23:26:30 1999
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Date: Thu, 08 Apr 1999 23:34:00 -0400
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Subject: parts parts parts
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	Okay fellas, I have been getting re-settled cause I changed ISP.  I have
beel wheelin' and dealin' with you guys for some time.  There are a few
loose ends I need to tie up.  I beleive I owe a couple of people some wire
pigtails. You know who you are, so drop me a line so we can square.
	For the rest of the list. I am still pulling from my local U-Pull-It yard.
 Most of the cars are everyday stuff up to 1992.  A while back I grabbed
bunch of 730 ecm's and harnesses cause I needed money for a trip to Bike
Week.  Thanks so much for the support.
	I ended up running out of time before I filled everyones orders.  Gosh.
This sounds like I could go into business.  Anyways, if anyone still wants
me to look for parts, I will.  This gives me an excuse to stay at the yard
all week, and look for the ever elusive 749!
	The deal remains, 730 ecm are going for $35, and harnesses are $100.  I do
on occasion run into some TBI SBC trucks. Sorry guys, no TPI and the sort.
I know the 727 ecm is getting popular but I don't have any yet.  The best I
can do is make a list of orders and send the stuff as I get it.

Thanks again,

Paul Tholey


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Stuart Hastings wrote:
> 
> I'm interested in improving the performance of my boat.
> 
<snip>
> Most marinized car
> engines have water-jacketed exhaust manifolds, because anything as hot as
> an exhaust manifold is a fire hazard on a boat. I think this means that an
> EGO is pretty much out of the question on a boat engine, 

Mount your sensor in the exhaust crossover of the intake.

 I gather (from reading the DIY-EFI archives &etc) that
> balance-shaft V6 TBI systems are fairly common (read "cheap") in
> junkyards; they were used in El Caminos, Caprices, and Astros. I haven't
> actually seen one, so I don't know if the intake manifold is Aluminum or
> Iron. 
Aluminum.

>Said donor vehicles probably all have balance shafts underneath
> their intake manifolds, and roller camshafts for reduced friction.
Worked on an early "Marinized" 4.3, roughly 88 vintage.  Had
aftermarket roller cam installed by Mercruiser.


> I'll interject something about my own capabilities here. I'm a programmer
> by trade, and while it sounds fun to disassemble ROMs and tweak BL tables
> with a laptop while under way, I don't have time for such a big project.
> EFI for my boat is only feasible if I can get a stock system from a junked
> car that will tolerate the marine environment and "bolt-up" readily.
> Ideally, I'd like to buy a complete system from one donor car, including
> distributor, intake, TBI, computer, sensors, and fuel pump.  I can
> probably deal with some throttle bracket fabrication, new fuel lines, and
> I think I can add a fuel pump to my boat's gas tank. However, if an EFI
> project gets any bigger, I can't handle it at this stage of my life (I
> have four kids, oldest is 8; they are why I have the boat :-).

Marine Holley system an option?

> 
 I presume that a
> properly-installed TBI system won't leak gas or fumes into the bilge.
> Correct?
EFI systems need a vapor handling system.  If hot fuel circulates back
to the tank, you get vapor build up.
Putting the return line close to the tank may cure this problem, but
may allow vapors to form in the TB supply system.
> 
> 5. My Prestolite non-electronic "marine" distributor has fine metal
> screening glued over the bottom vent holes. Can I "marinize" an electronic
> TBI distributor by duplicating this screening? A distributorless system
> elegantly avoids this, but then I presume I need the flywheel pickup that
> may or may not fit my heavy, clutchless marine flywheel. And my marine
> bellhousing probably doesn't have any provision for a crank sensor either.
> 
GM TBI as used on the 4.3 uses the distributor for the reference
signal, not a crank sensor

> 6. Are there any blatant misconceptions in my thinking, outlined above?
> 
> 7. If an appropriate TBI system exists (cheap, powerful,
> marine-compatible), what donor cars should I look for?

Pickups, S-10, Astro vans are the best choices IMHO.
Again, is aftermarket an option?
> 
> 8. Would I be smarter to grit my teeth and buy a used 4bbl for $450?
Ummm.. Do you really enjoy making changes to a working system?
> 
> 9. Would I be smarter yet to forget the whole project, because the
> existing 2bbl works fine, and an additional 30HP (17%)  won't improve the
> boat's performance by very much ;-) ?

Depends on your willingness to invest time, and your level of patience
if things don't work out as planned.

> 
> My research so far has been a few Fuel Injection books, and the DIY-EFI
> archives, and the DIY-EFI stuff is much more useful. I'm very impressed
> with the depth of the technical discussions on this list; thus far, the
> price of my research has been inversely proportional to its value :-)  .
> 
Somewhere around here there's an address to send donations. ; )



> Thanks in advance,
You're welcome.
Shannen
> 
> stuart hastings
> stuart@hastings.org


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  9 00:48:00 1999
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Engine load vs RPM and torque
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>In a message dated 4/8/99 8:11:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, bearbvd@sni.net
>writes:
>
>> as much as I like the forged (6061 alloy) Alcoa wheels, even
>>  they crack quite a lot in the wrong kind of service!
>>
>>  Regards, Greg
>>
>
>Well, I just HAVE to put my $.02 in!
>When I was in the Army, we used two different types of wheels on our M60
>based tanks, steel and alum.  The steel wheels would bend frequently and need
>to be replaced when convenient, but the aluminum wheels ... they were
>constantly BREAKING and of course required immediate replacement if you
>didn't want to drive around on your hubs.
>I have not been too fond of aluminum wheels ever since, no matter how
>'faddish' they may be.  ESPECIALLY on trucks.  I mean, what's the point?  Is
>the few pounds you save really going to help the handling with a live axle
>suspension?  But then most people with trucks (SUVs) these days won't ever
>see a dirt road, much less off-road, anyway.  But the idea of alum. wheels on
>a truck is stupid if you ask me.

On a semi truck, Alcoas can increase payload over 1000 lbs.!! That
translates to $$$, not better handling. They do also run a lot truer, thus
increasing tire life, and suspension parts life--which means more $$$$.
These are proven facts in big time fleet use--Even with replacing the
cracked ones, they PAY for themselves rather handsomely!!! Another factor
with 24.5" wheels is the much lower polar moment of the Alcoas, which helps
fuel economy a tad. The thing that brings on cracks in the Alcoas is lots
of tight, slow turns with a loaded truck. Straight down the interstate,
they last almost indefinitely. Fuel tankers going over Loveland Pass (no
hazardous loads through the tunnels under the divide on I-70) eat up Alcoas
at an impressive rate because of all the hairpin turns.

Greg
>
>Ted



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  9 02:57:50 1999
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Hi All

Thanks to David, Bruce and Mike as well as others for help with
the 2.0 mitsibushi..

Prob was a broken exhaust cam.. Cam sensor is driven off intake cam
broken halfway to be exact..

Well hope is not an interference engine..

Oh yes went to trade show today.. The auto xray guy showed me
their new up grade for the autoxray which will do both domestic
and foreign OBD11.. Price for the upgrade is 199$ can and 47 for
cable. I will believe when I get it.

:peter



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  9 09:08:01 1999
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>
>Mount your sensor in the exhaust crossover of the intake.
>

Is there enough flow there to get a good steady reading?





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Clive Apps Techno-Logicals 416 510 0020 wrote:
> 
> >
> > Since the motor mounts are connected to the block , you need to rotate the
> > block to compress the load cell not the crank.
> > The hardest part with this method is figuring out the scale in foot pounds.
> > Usually load cells are calibrated with certified weights hung from a known
> > length, usually a 1 foot long bar, hence 'foot- pound'  I don't know how you
> > could calculate the moment of movement that the block would place on the
> > load cell. I would guess if you bolted a 1 foot bar on the engine at the
> > center line of the crank and placed a 1 pound weight on the end of the bar,
> > you would be able to calibrate the load cell out put for 1 foot Lb. Of
> > course you would
> > want to cal it to 300 ft.Lbs or what you think the engine would put out. If
> > you use a 2 foot bar then 1 pound on the end would apply a force of  2 foot
> > Lbs. This would save some cal weight. Your idea is  excellent  and should
> > give some good results. Another way to read the torque would be to connect a
> > load cell to the block about where the front freeze plug is, and the other
> > end to the frame. This will make a solid motor mount that might damage the
> > Trans case if you torque it to hard. You might want to try this using the
> > same cal procedure, and if it works go to the mount system.
> 
> except the bar has weight
> better to place it vertical and use a scale to get the weight required
> a 5" bar and 80 lbs pull would be 400 ft lbs
> 
> Clive

Not if he puts an Identical bar on the other side.  That is how we
calibrate load cells on dyno's in our test cells.  we have mounts on the
dyno and we have bars that fit into them on each side at centerline of
the shaft.  The two bars are equal length and weight so that they
counter each other and put you back to zero.  Than we add the weight. 
Our bars, since we have the room, are to put us four feet from center so
that we use 25lb weights to calibrate every 100ftlbs.  We have used this
method for years.

Matt

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From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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On Thu, 8 Apr 1999, Stuart Hastings wrote:

> Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 13:28:51 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Stuart Hastings <stuart@hal.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #216
> 
> I'm interested in improving the performance of my boat.
> 
> The boat engine is a 1988-model Chevy 4.3L V6, with a 2bbl carburetor. 
> This is an early 4.3L V6, with no balance shaft, and no roller tappets. 
> Outboard Marine Corp, my engines' "marinizer," rated it at 175 crankshaft
> HP or 160 propshaft HP. (Current practice is to rate boat engine HP at the
> prop.)  OMC also offered this engine with a 4bbl carburetor, and claimed
> 205 crankshaft HP for it. I checked with OMC, and the carb/intake is the
> ONLY difference between these engines. OMC has confirmed that the 4bbl
> setup will add 30HP to my engine.  (I recall compression as
> 8.4:1(?unsure), and OMC specifies 89 octane gas.) My particular engine has
> about 220 hours, and seems to have been well cared-for;  compression is
> still about 165psi in all cylinders.
> 
> I've done some preliminary queries, and discovered I can buy a used 4bbl
> carburetor + manifold for about $350, plus shipping and miscellaneous
> expenses (gaskets, carb rebuild kit, new throttle linkage). Probably $450
> total by the time I'm done.

by boat standards that is cheap


> die of neglect long before they rust away anyway. A side-effect of
> "raw-water" cooled engines is their use of very-low-temperature
> thermostats; since the cooling water is almost unpressurized, a 160F
> thermostat lessens the likelihood of steam bubbles and burned valves.

any warmer and you start getting mineral deposits

> 
> Another unique boat engine problem is the exhaust. Most marinized car
> engines have water-jacketed exhaust manifolds, because anything as hot as
> an exhaust manifold is a fire hazard on a boat. I think this means that an
> EGO is pretty much out of the question on a boat engine, but I presume

on a 5.7 magnum I worked on on of the runners was un jacketed for about 4"
and an o2 sensor

> 
> I presume that adding an aluminum CIS intake manifold to my
> raw-water-cooled engine will turn it into a giant battery :-) with
> accellerated galvanic corrosion.

you can get away with al and fe if you add a zinc anode

>  It's possible to fit these engines with
> a (misnamed)  "fresh-water cooling"  system, consisting of a heat
> exchanger, extra plumbing, automotive coolant, and a 180F thermostat, but
> that's another $300-$500 investment. The higher running temperature is
> good for combustion efficiency, oil life, and engine durability, but many
> such boat engines will require an oil cooler too (still more $$). This is
> all a little extravagant for a motor that runs about 50 hours per year in
> fresh (non-salt) water.

it also extends the boating season

> 
> Since the point of this project is to increase HP, there's no point in
> pursuing it unless the generic GM TBI system would supply 200+ crankshaft
> HP from my unbalanced, non-roller-cam V6. 
> 
> 1. Are GM 4.3L V6 TBI systems capable of 200+ HP?
> 
> 2. Is the GM 4.3L V6 TBI manifold made of Aluminum or Iron (or Plastic?).
> 
> 3. I presume the standard TBI in-tank pump needs some baffling; what
> *exactly* is required? Can I swipe the tank-wall fitting (probably steel)
> from a TBI car and modify it for my boats aluminum gas tank?

how deep is the tank if it is tall you can get away with a fuel fitting
down low on the back

> 
> 4. Automotive carburetors typically vent bowl fumes externally. Marine
> carbs vent bowl fumes into the carb intake (above the butterflys), so
> fumes don't collect in the bilge and explode. I presume that a
> properly-installed TBI system won't leak gas or fumes into the bilge.
> Correct? 

yeap

> 
> 5. My Prestolite non-electronic "marine" distributor has fine metal
> screening glued over the bottom vent holes. Can I "marinize" an electronic
> TBI distributor by duplicating this screening? A distributorless system
> elegantly avoids this, but then I presume I need the flywheel pickup that
> may or may not fit my heavy, clutchless marine flywheel. And my marine
> bellhousing probably doesn't have any provision for a crank sensor either.

that screen is a flame arrestor, if you have an explosive bulge something
else is more likely to spark the bang

> 
> 6. Are there any blatant misconceptions in my thinking, outlined above?
> 
> 7. If an appropriate TBI system exists (cheap, powerful,
> marine-compatible), what donor cars should I look for?
> 
> 8. Would I be smarter to grit my teeth and buy a used 4bbl for $450?
> 
> 9. Would I be smarter yet to forget the whole project, because the
> existing 2bbl works fine, and an additional 30HP (17%)  won't improve the
> boat's performance by very much ;-) ?

can you get to hull speed? once at hull speed it takes huge power to get 
any real speed increase ( I don't remember the exact # but it was 
something along the line of %40 more power for %10 more speed) 

the added power would help getting a skier up 

> 
> My research so far has been a few Fuel Injection books, and the DIY-EFI
> archives, and the DIY-EFI stuff is much more useful. I'm very impressed
> with the depth of the technical discussions on this list; thus far, the
> price of my research has been inversely proportional to its value :-)  . 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> stuart hastings
> stuart@hastings.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  9 09:37:50 1999
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Subject: Re: 302 or 460 build up
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The 302 is a 4 inch bore with a 3" stroke. They are really not built for
high RPMs. Once you get them over about 3700 RPMs they start to sound like
they'd rather be at 2500. Torque is fairly good. You'll probably see 275-300
ft/lbs at around 2300-2600 RPMs.

I drive an F-150 w/ the 302 and it does quite fast. For a pretty bulky
truck, it goes quite fast. The stock camshaft of the 302 is quite good for
low end.. Is not suited to high RPMs though.

The 351 likes low RPMs even more and high RPMs even less. The nice thing
about the 302's is how commonplace they are. ALOT of people consider them
ford's best product, and as Jim was mentioning, the "go-fast" goodies for
mustangs bolt up easily. Now who could resist forced induction ?! Even a
Supercharger is commonly available and easy to install.

I'd definitly say the 302 is a great engine. I'd also agree with the posts
saying the 460 is just toooo much.

Unless you consider a full size pickup truck light (i dunno, maybe you drive
a freightliner usualy?!) light, you're probably going to want a good
shortblock engine. Dont forget the 302/351 can be cam-swapped,etc and you'll
get the torque where you want it.


----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Yeagley <jimyeagley@stratos.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 1999 3:45 PM
Subject: Re: 302 or 460 build up


> Pat,
>
> I wouldn't expect a whole lot of torque from the 302.  It's got a pretty
> short stroke, 3" I think, and short stroke motors are typically made for
> high revving, upper rpm horsepower.  Not to say you can't get low end from
> it, but it would not be cost effective.
>
> The 460 spells torque.  If you want to stick with the Windsor engine
> family(302), why not go with a 351W?  It's pretty much a stroked 302,
> slightly taller and wider, but most 302 bracketry will bolt right up.
Plus,
> considering the popularity of the 5.0l Mustang, go fast goodies are
> plentiful.
>
> Jim Yeagley
> 1996 Dodge Indy Ram
> See it and many others at: www.indyram.org
> 1975 Pontiac Grandville Brougham Conv. (in baskets)
> webmaster@indyram.org
> jimyeagley@stratos.net
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> >Hi All;
> > This isn't strickly efi but efi will go on it so..
> >I'm getting a 302 ( 5.0L) or a 460 (7.3L) to build for a light car
> >Hp isn't what I'm after I want torque ( more fun, less tickets)
> >
> >what would you guys suggest for around 300hp and lotsa grunt( the 460
will
> >be closer to 400hp)
>
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  9 10:01:23 1999
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Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 07:59:39 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: 302 or 460 build up
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HI--

Did anybody say a Clevor yet?? (351W block with 351C heads of the 2 barrel
persuasion.)

>Greetings,

>I have to agree on the 351.  Look at the December 1998 issue of Hot Rod and
>see the FI unit they built.
>
>I would love to have this in my Lincoln.
>
>David
>-----Original Message-----
>From: KD6JDJ@aol.com <KD6JDJ@aol.com>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Thursday, April 08, 1999 8:26 PM
>Subject: Re: 302 or 460 build up
>
>
>|Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
>|>
>|>
>|> >Hi All;
>|> > This isn't strickly efi but efi will go on it so..
>|> >I'm getting a 302 ( 5.0L) or a 460 (7.3L) to build for a light car
>|> >Hp isn't what I'm after I want torque ( more fun, less tickets)
>|> >
>|> >what would you guys suggest for around 300hp and lotsa grunt( the 460
>|will
>|> >be closer to 400hp)
>|>
>|
>|   Gary
>|  I want to cast my vote for a well built 302 rather than either a 351 or
>460.
>|  A -- The 460 is too big and heavy for any light street car.
>|  B -- The 351 is heavier and taller than the 302, and will get you about
>17
>|percent more HP than the 302.
>|  C -- The Windsor 351 heads can be installed on the 302. The block can be
>|redrilled to accept the larger 351 stud diameter.
>|  D -- You can get a cam to provide you with the 'torque at RPM' that want.
>I
>|bet that a stock cam , slightly advanced , will get you as much low RPM
>|torque as any street machine you will ever try to impress.
>|
>|   Just my 2 cents worth    Jerry
>|
>|



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  9 10:08:51 1999
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Torque measurement
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>-----Original Message-----
>From: Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Thursday, April 08, 1999 10:30 PM
>Subject: RE: Torque measurement
>
>
><SNIP>
>
>>
>>Well--you would be measuring the torque output of the TRANSMISSION, not the
>>engine--so you would need to calibrate the thing a fair amount higher for
>>the low gears. Look at the engine-tranny package as a black box to
>>visualize why this is so. And calibrating with a bar stuck through the
>>output yoke, with the tranny in gear, might be a lot easier approach.
>>
>>Greg
>
>
>Hmmmm(n).  I uderstand what you are saying, but if the transmission is in
>neutral, and I open the throttle, the engine rotates oposite to the crank
>direction.  There is no output from the transmission... Is this just the
>energy that is being stored in the flywheel causing this oposite reaction,
>or am I more lost than I think?
>
>Ord

Yep--in the situation you describe, it is the reaction to the rotational
inertia of the ratating assembly that makes the engine rock.

Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  9 10:27:24 1999
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Has anyone ever worked with the differences in the MAF for a Buick 3800 "C" and the
older Buick 3.8L GN or non turbo "3" engine?

I would like to change over to the older MAF if I can for cost and airflow
reasons.  The MAF on the 3800 is the Hitachi MAF, and said to have a different
frequency output than the older MAF.

Is there any repair work that can be done on the MAF's?  Mine gives no fault codes,
but it does seem to be working incorrectly.  My engine has poor power output when
ambient temp is above 60 Degrees F, excellent power around 45 F, and decent when
below 30F.  Temp sensor and O2 have been replaced, MAT has been replaced, and
nothing seems to affect it.

Any ideas on replacing MAF or repairing existing MAF?  Cost of the new MAF is near
$300, the GN MAF is $106.

Has anyone ever turbocharged a 3800?

Thanks!

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  9 12:09:34 1999
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	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Halp Diamond Star Motoring
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 09:08:19 -0700 
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Peter,

Unfortunately, it is an interference engine.  The timing belts have a habit
of breaking and taking a few (or many) valves along for the ride.  Those in
the know recommend changing the timing and balance belts every 30,000 miles.
I've never heard of anyone breaking a cam though, so maybe you've got
something else going on.

After markets cams are not real popular, but they do exist so you can
probably pick up a used cam on the parts trader.  Though, once you start
pulling parts you're likely to find out that it's not worth fixing.  

Good Luck,
Mike



-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Fenske [mailto:pfenske@bcit.bc.ca]
Sent: Friday, April 09, 1999 1:48 AM
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Halp Diamond Star Motoring




Hi All

Thanks to David, Bruce and Mike as well as others for help with
the 2.0 mitsibushi..

Prob was a broken exhaust cam.. Cam sensor is driven off intake cam
broken halfway to be exact..

Well hope is not an interference engine..

Oh yes went to trade show today.. The auto xray guy showed me
their new up grade for the autoxray which will do both domestic
and foreign OBD11.. Price for the upgrade is 199$ can and 47 for
cable. I will believe when I get it.

:peter


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  9 12:13:52 1999
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From: "M. Jones" <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: marinized 4.3L (was DIY_EFI Digest V4 #216)
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 10:16:34 -0600
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Stuart Hastings wrote:
>
> I'm interested in improving the performance of my boat.  (snip)

Hi, Stuart--

I added an aftermarket (Holley 4D) system to my 351W-powered inboard, so I can 
share a few generic tidbits.  Shannen Durphey suggested mounting the O2 sensor 
in the intake crossover.  I did this, and it seems to work just fine.  If I 
were to do it again, though, I would devise a short, unjacketed section of 
exhaust (externally insulated) and mount the sensor there.  The Pleasure Craft 
Marine manifold design would make it relatively easy to fab an adapter;  don't 
know about your OMC's.  Less worry about whether or not you've done the right 
thing!  Or don't use the sensor at all.  I've run with mine disconnected and 
notice no discernable difference in performance.  (I can't say whether or not a 
stock GM system will allow this; somebody else on-list surely can.)

An external aftermarket TBI pump will likely work fine;  mine feeds 280 hp or 
so with no difficulty even down to the last few gallons in the tank.  I used 
the original pick-up which penetrates the top of the tank.  (My tank is 
vertically mounted at the transom.)  My return line is mounted at the level 
sender flange.  Through one complete season in some very hot whether, running 
for hours on end I've never noticed an increase in vapor coming from the tank 
vent.  Never had any hot-fuel problems of any type.  No start problems or 
lean-out or anything of that sort.  BTW the Coasties say that the pump is 
supposed to mounted on-engine or within 1 foot.

As to will it be worth it, If your boat is typical you probably won't see more 
than a 2-5 mph top speed increase.  Where you'll notice the difference is in 
pulling skiers up and acceleration in general.  The instant starts hot and cold 
make it all worthwhile, IMO, even without any performance increase.

I have an aluminum Edelbrock, with a zinc anode mounted in an unused water 
passage tap.  Even without the anode, in fresh water it will take 20 years 
before you run into corrosion problems -- especially if your boat is trailered.

HTH,
Mike Jones





From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  9 14:20:33 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Eric Schumacher <e.schumacher@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Torque measurement
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Long ago there were some guys that bolted a linear position sensor to the
fire wall (for transverse engines) and the input shaft to the top of the
block. Amount of position shift of engine against mounts indicated amount
of torque. Was caliblated with torque rwrench on crank end with car in high
gear and front bumper against a tree. In-accuracies are due to the changes
of properties of rebber when it changes temp.

Lotsa luck Eric
85 GTI with VR6 Power

At 10:48 AM 4/8/99 -0300, you wrote:
>I have some strain guages that I was thinking of attaching to my motor
>mounts, the idea being to measure the torque output of the engine.  I want
>to calibrate it by imobilizing the crank relative to the block, and then
snip

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  9 14:59:33 1999
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From: Niinikoski Juha <juha.niinikoski@mikrolog.fi>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Mitsubishi MUT-II test connector
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 21:58:13 +0200 
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Does anyone know anything about Mitsubishi MUT-II test connector ? Vehicle
what I am talking about is new 99 Pajero 2800 turbo diesel.

Connector looks like standard OBD-II connector but having little notch at
pin # 1 end.  I have not yet measured anything from the connector but in the
future I will do this.
Pins populated at the connector and descriptions according OBD-II standard:
1 = ?
4 = chassis ground
5 = signal ground
7 = ISO K-line  ?
8 = ?
12 = ?
13 = ?
14 = CAN low ?
16 = batt +

Juha Niinikoski
Espoo Finland


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  9 15:43:17 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Torque measurement
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 14:41:49 -0500 
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A dyno works the same way. The rotor of the dyno is coupled to the engine
under test. The dyno case is supported by trunion bearings. water is
circulated between the rotor and case. The rotor tries to turn the case, and
a load cell on the case reads out torque.  In an engine, the crank is the
rotor and the block is the case, a load cell on the block would read out
torque just like a dyno does. If you want to measure off of the drive shaft
an in line load cell would be needed. The cost of an in line is over $3K a
tension compression load cell is around $500.
                                                            Don    

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	bearbvd@sni.net [SMTP:bearbvd@sni.net]
> Sent:	Friday, April 09, 1999 9:07 AM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: Torque measurement
> 
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net>
> >To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> >Date: Thursday, April 08, 1999 10:30 PM
> >Subject: RE: Torque measurement
> >
> >
> ><SNIP>
> >
> >>
> >>Well--you would be measuring the torque output of the TRANSMISSION, not
> the
> >>engine--so you would need to calibrate the thing a fair amount higher
> for
> >>the low gears. Look at the engine-tranny package as a black box to
> >>visualize why this is so. And calibrating with a bar stuck through the
> >>output yoke, with the tranny in gear, might be a lot easier approach.
> >>
> >>Greg
> >
> >
> >Hmmmm(n).  I uderstand what you are saying, but if the transmission is in
> >neutral, and I open the throttle, the engine rotates oposite to the crank
> >direction.  There is no output from the transmission... Is this just the
> >energy that is being stored in the flywheel causing this oposite
> reaction,
> >or am I more lost than I think?
> >
> >Ord
> 
> Yep--in the situation you describe, it is the reaction to the rotational
> inertia of the ratating assembly that makes the engine rock.
> 
> Greg
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  9 15:49:16 1999
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Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 15:47:26 EDT
Subject: Re: Carl Summers please
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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In a message dated 4/7/99 7:39:20 PM Pacific Daylight Time, mpilkent@ptw.com 
writes:

<< Subj:	 Carl Summers please
 Date:	4/7/99 7:39:20 PM Pacific Daylight Time
 From:	mpilkent@ptw.com (Mike Pilkenton)
 Sender:	owner-diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
 Reply-to:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 To:	DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu (DIY-EFI)
 
 Carl, I think I may have an old email address for you, could you please
 contact me off-list.  I still need help with my 3.1L V6 project.
 
 Mike Pilkenton
  >>
Hi Mike,
        I've been out of town and haven't been able to check the mail much 
and it was overloaded.......I'll contact you over the weekend.........cyall 
later
-Carl Summers

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  9 18:37:11 1999
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Date:  9 Apr 99 15:07:58 PDT
From: Dean Schwartz <rhinodean@netscape.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Three Questions
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>From time to time members of this list have proven to have access to some
great resources, and I hope you'll help me figure out three questions, 2 of
them are EFI related.

I have some Seimens injectors with the following numbers on the injectors,
3145 & A020.  I'm trying to find out what flow these are rated.

I have a pair of small block chevy heads casting number 33417369, any way to
tell the chamber and port volumes from the casting number? 

Finally, will a TPI system fit under the hood of a '81 Corvette hood, without
modifying the hood or the TPI system?

Dean

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com.

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  9 20:10:43 1999
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It's been done succesfully.  Might be good only for "baseline", not
for moving the sensor and using an existing calibration.  Also, should
have put more thought into this.  TBI manifolds don't have the full
crossover.  This would be for an "adapted" 4bbl --> TBI manifold.
Shannen

David A. Cooley wrote:
> 
> >
> >Mount your sensor in the exhaust crossover of the intake.
> >
> 
> Is there enough flow there to get a good steady reading?


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  9 21:03:09 1999
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From: "Jim Yeagley" <jimyeagley@stratos.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 302 or 460 build up
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 20:49:18 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
The 302 is a 4 inch bore with a 3" stroke. They are really not built for
high RPMs. Once you get them over about 3700 RPMs they start to sound like
they'd rather be at 2500. Torque is fairly good. You'll probably see 275-300
ft/lbs at around 2300-2600 RPMs.

I drive an F-150 w/ the 302 and it does quite fast. For a pretty bulky
truck, it goes quite fast. The stock camshaft of the 302 is quite good for
low end.. Is not suited to high RPMs though.
-------------------

Try a different cam in your 302, then you'll realize what a short stroke
motor is built for.  The only reason you feel like your truck has torque is
because of the gearing.  My '79 302 Mustang felt like a 4 banger before 2000
rpm.  Go 351 for torque or as someone mentioned the L-6 300.  That 6 is one
hell of a torque monster, but the 351W parts will still be cheaper!

Jim Yeagley
1996 Dodge Indy Ram
See it and many others at: www.indyram.org
1975 Pontiac Grandville Brougham Conv. (in baskets)
webmaster@indyram.org
jimyeagley@stratos.net




From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  9 21:18:27 1999
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From: "John Andrianakis" <John.Andrian@usa.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: TEC II
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 02:35:06 +0300
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Are you sure about this? Too many late model european cars carry the 4 wire
bosch sensor. Do you know thep art number for the LS?
Thanks in advance.
John Andrianakis
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: ÐÝìðôç, 8 Áðñéëßïõ 1999 11:10 ìì
Subject: Re: TEC II


>><<Do you use an EIP turbo system? Just curious.>>
>>
>>No.
>>
>><<Again, he is right. Trying to calibrate anything off of stoich without a
>>UEGO is foolishness, and asking for expensive repairs!>>
>>
>>AND...again, I say that a standard 4-wire Bosch 0-1v EGO is fine. If it's
good
>>enough for a GT2 turbo 911, I think it can do the job.
>
>
>That bosch IS the LS II WIDE BAND O2 sensor!!
>
>Otherwise known as a UEGO sensor.
>
>Greg
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  9 21:33:11 1999
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Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 18:32:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Squash <realsquash@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 302 or 460 build up
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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OK, here's the answer.  Aluminum 429/460.  torque and
HP in one large, light package!

Andy

--- Jim Yeagley <jimyeagley@stratos.net> wrote:
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> The 302 is a 4 inch bore with a 3" stroke. They are
> really not built for
> high RPMs. Once you get them over about 3700 RPMs
> they start to sound like
> they'd rather be at 2500. Torque is fairly good.
> You'll probably see 275-300
> ft/lbs at around 2300-2600 RPMs.
> 
> I drive an F-150 w/ the 302 and it does quite fast.
> For a pretty bulky
> truck, it goes quite fast. The stock camshaft of the
> 302 is quite good for
> low end.. Is not suited to high RPMs though.
> -------------------
> 
> Try a different cam in your 302, then you'll realize
> what a short stroke
> motor is built for.  The only reason you feel like
> your truck has torque is
> because of the gearing.  My '79 302 Mustang felt
> like a 4 banger before 2000
> rpm.  Go 351 for torque or as someone mentioned the
> L-6 300.  That 6 is one
> hell of a torque monster, but the 351W parts will
> still be cheaper!
> 
> Jim Yeagley
> 1996 Dodge Indy Ram
> See it and many others at: www.indyram.org
> 1975 Pontiac Grandville Brougham Conv. (in baskets)
> webmaster@indyram.org
> jimyeagley@stratos.net
> 
> 
> 
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr  9 21:42:34 1999
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Date: Fri, 09 Apr 1999 21:41:16 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: donna habel <purrfect@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 302 or 460 build up
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The company that made the special intake to mate 351C heads on the 351W
block has gone out of business. Unless you can find one at a swap meet or
want to custom fab an intake this route is out. This was something folks
did to pump up the power of a 351W when there wasn't any performance parts
for it. Nowdays the speed parts for 351W blocks are available and
relatively cheap.

Bruce Habel
69 Cougar w/351W
69 Cougar w/351C - efi project wannabe
69 Cougar convertible w/nothing

At 07:59 AM 4/9/1999 -0600, you wrote:
>HI--
>
>Did anybody say a Clevor yet?? (351W block with 351C heads of the 2 barrel
>persuasion.)
>
>>Greetings,
>
>>I have to agree on the 351.  Look at the December 1998 issue of Hot Rod and
>>see the FI unit they built.
>>
>>I would love to have this in my Lincoln.
>>
>>David
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: KD6JDJ@aol.com <KD6JDJ@aol.com>
>>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>>Date: Thursday, April 08, 1999 8:26 PM
>>Subject: Re: 302 or 460 build up
>>
>>
>>|Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
>>|>
>>|>
>>|> >Hi All;
>>|> > This isn't strickly efi but efi will go on it so..
>>|> >I'm getting a 302 ( 5.0L) or a 460 (7.3L) to build for a light car
>>|> >Hp isn't what I'm after I want torque ( more fun, less tickets)
>>|> >
>>|> >what would you guys suggest for around 300hp and lotsa grunt( the 460
>>|will
>>|> >be closer to 400hp)
>>|>
>>|
>>|   Gary
>>|  I want to cast my vote for a well built 302 rather than either a 351 or
>>460.
>>|  A -- The 460 is too big and heavy for any light street car.
>>|  B -- The 351 is heavier and taller than the 302, and will get you about
>>17
>>|percent more HP than the 302.
>>|  C -- The Windsor 351 heads can be installed on the 302. The block can be
>>|redrilled to accept the larger 351 stud diameter.
>>|  D -- You can get a cam to provide you with the 'torque at RPM' that want.
>>I
>>|bet that a stock cam , slightly advanced , will get you as much low RPM
>>|torque as any street machine you will ever try to impress.
>>|
>>|   Just my 2 cents worth    Jerry
>>|
>>|
>
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 10 03:02:35 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu,
        Andre Grandi <ferrariformulauno@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Ceramic turbocharger info source??
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In article <19990408210004.4633.rocketmail@send205.yahoomail.com>, 
Andre Grandi apparently wrote:

<snip>

> Also check out the Japanese Lexus SC300, they made a twin turbo 
version of this
> inline motor for Japan only that had 2 ceramic turbos..
> Good luck!

I believe only the Lexus / Toyota Soarer 2.5 twin turbo,not the 3 
litre version,had twin ceramic turbos.AFAIK the 3 litre was only made 
naturally aspirated,even in its home market.The wifes Jap import 2.5 
*does* have twin ceramic turbos.So does my Jap import Supra.Not sure 
if either have CT-20 's or 26's though,thankfully they both seem 
OK,and haven't needed close scrutiny :-)




-- 
               Best Regards,
                        Chris Wilson.
              http://www.maximum-bhp.u-net.com



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 10 05:45:14 1999
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Date: 10 Apr 99 20:08:29 +1200
From: "Tom Parker" <parkert@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: Torque measurement
To: "Eric Schumacher" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Eric Schumacher <e.schumacher@worldnet.att.net> wrote:

>Long ago there were some guys that bolted a linear position sensor to the
>fire wall (for transverse engines) and the input shaft to the top of the
>block. Amount of position shift of engine against mounts indicated amount
>of torque. Was caliblated with torque rwrench on crank end with car in high
>gear and front bumper against a tree. In-accuracies are due to the changes
>of properties of rebber when it changes temp.

Sounds good.

What about putting a postion sensor on both the inner and outer CV joint (for
front wheel drive engine) and measuring the twist in the driveshaft?

My Mini has a 450mm by 25mm driveshaft.

Anyone know rough calculations for torque v twist?

The motor puts about 340 Nm on the ground (100Nm at the crank) in top gear.

--
Tom Parker - tparker@geocities.com
           - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 10 08:20:37 1999
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Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 07:11:56 -0500
From: Steve Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: 302 or 460 build up
References: <3.0.1.32.19990409214116.007a7100@pop.mindspring.com>
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There are adapter plates out there that let you use 351c heads with intake on 351w
block. My race engine has them on. They still make the intake but use the adapters
they are cheaper solution.

Steve


donna habel wrote:

> The company that made the special intake to mate 351C heads on the 351W
> block has gone out of business. Unless you can find one at a swap meet or
> want to custom fab an intake this route is out. This was something folks
> did to pump up the power of a 351W when there wasn't any performance parts
> for it. Nowdays the speed parts for 351W blocks are available and
> relatively cheap.
>
> Bruce Habel
> 69 Cougar w/351W
> 69 Cougar w/351C - efi project wannabe
> 69 Cougar convertible w/nothing
>
> At 07:59 AM 4/9/1999 -0600, you wrote:
> >HI--
> >
> >Did anybody say a Clevor yet?? (351W block with 351C heads of the 2 barrel
> >persuasion.)
> >
> >>Greetings,
> >
> >>I have to agree on the 351.  Look at the December 1998 issue of Hot Rod and
> >>see the FI unit they built.
> >>
> >>I would love to have this in my Lincoln.
> >>
> >>David
> >>-----Original Message-----
> >>From: KD6JDJ@aol.com <KD6JDJ@aol.com>
> >>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> >>Date: Thursday, April 08, 1999 8:26 PM
> >>Subject: Re: 302 or 460 build up
> >>
> >>
> >>|Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
> >>|>
> >>|>
> >>|> >Hi All;
> >>|> > This isn't strickly efi but efi will go on it so..
> >>|> >I'm getting a 302 ( 5.0L) or a 460 (7.3L) to build for a light car
> >>|> >Hp isn't what I'm after I want torque ( more fun, less tickets)
> >>|> >
> >>|> >what would you guys suggest for around 300hp and lotsa grunt( the 460
> >>|will
> >>|> >be closer to 400hp)
> >>|>
> >>|
> >>|   Gary
> >>|  I want to cast my vote for a well built 302 rather than either a 351 or
> >>460.
> >>|  A -- The 460 is too big and heavy for any light street car.
> >>|  B -- The 351 is heavier and taller than the 302, and will get you about
> >>17
> >>|percent more HP than the 302.
> >>|  C -- The Windsor 351 heads can be installed on the 302. The block can be
> >>|redrilled to accept the larger 351 stud diameter.
> >>|  D -- You can get a cam to provide you with the 'torque at RPM' that want.
> >>I
> >>|bet that a stock cam , slightly advanced , will get you as much low RPM
> >>|torque as any street machine you will ever try to impress.
> >>|
> >>|   Just my 2 cents worth    Jerry
> >>|
> >>|
> >
> >
> >




From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 10 11:56:44 1999
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From: bob@bobthecomputerguy.com (Robert Harris)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 302 vs 460
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 15:54:52 GMT
Organization: Bob - the Computer Guy
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What type vehicle are you using?  With less than the weight of a fat lady
separating the two and much of that compensatible by moving the battery to the
trunk, aluminum intake and headers - contrary to popular opinion it aint gonna
matter much.

Size - it's not that much bigger - go measure one.  

Performance.   When you are into massive overkill on a 302, you are about a
good street buildup on a 385.  

If RPM is your thing, stick a 370 ( 3.09") crank in it and experience the song
of power.  The best aftermarket 302/351 intake flow about like a 385 exhaust -
and then there is the aftermarket heads - priced about the same - and willing
to take you into the stratosphere - and they be aluminum.

So size is your thing - an iron SVO block will take you out to 600+ cubic
inches.  Aluminum to much much more.

Build the torquiest 302/351 you want.   Then build a 460, put a radical cam
and intake on it optimized for mid upper range.   The residual torque left
over will still exceed that of the 320/351 and when it comes on the cam - it
be all over - you can't put enough positive pressure on a 302 to catch a wound
up 385.

A bore and offset crank can take you over 500 cubic inches.

So whine and snivel and wimp out with a sissy block.   You will never
experience the gut tearing rumble of a big block coming on.  You will never
see the fear and terror in her  eyes as you blip the throttle and break
traction in any gear at just about any speed.  You will miss the shock of your
seat breaking under rocket ship acceleration.  And leaving the line in a cloud
of smoke after sitting there at 600 rpm idle and smoking till your tired of it
will not be one of your rewards. 

But it will handle a modest bit better and every Rice Rocket in town will
still out handle you and make you think you need viagra.   And you'll spend a
lot more to get what a 385 (370/429/460) gives you with a stock rebuild.

1963 Ford C-600 Prison Bus Conversion "Home"
1971 Lincoln Continental 460 "Christine"
1972 "Whale" Mustang awaiting transplant
1978 Dodge Long Bed Peeek Up "Bundymobile"

Habaneros - not just for breakfast anymore

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 10 12:19:38 1999
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From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: 302 vs 460
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On Sat, 10 Apr 1999, Robert Harris wrote:

> 
> Performance.   When you are into massive overkill on a 302, you are about a
> good street buildup on a 385.  
> 
> So whine and snivel and wimp out with a sissy block.   You will never
> experience the gut tearing rumble of a big block coming on.  You will never
> see the fear and terror in her  eyes as you blip the throttle and break
> traction in any gear at just about any speed.  You will miss the shock of your
> seat breaking under rocket ship acceleration.  And leaving the line in a cloud
> of smoke after sitting there at 600 rpm idle and smoking till your tired of it
> will not be one of your rewards. 
> 
The experience of a big-block, light street vehicle should not be missed,
IMO. It gives you the "reach" not possible with lesser combinations.
Reccomended for all the above reasons...



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 10 13:32:51 1999
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Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 12:33:05 -0500
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Jim Davies wrote:

> On Sat, 10 Apr 1999, Robert Harris wrote:
>
> >
> > Performance.   When you are into massive overkill on a 302, you are about a
> > good street buildup on a 385.
> >
> > So whine and snivel and wimp out with a sissy block.   You will never
> > experience the gut tearing rumble of a big block coming on.  You will never
> > see the fear and terror in her  eyes as you blip the throttle and break
> > traction in any gear at just about any speed.  You will miss the shock of your
> > seat breaking under rocket ship acceleration.  And leaving the line in a cloud
> > of smoke after sitting there at 600 rpm idle and smoking till your tired of it
> > will not be one of your rewards.
> >
> The experience of a big-block, light street vehicle should not be missed,
> IMO. It gives you the "reach" not possible with lesser combinations.
> Reccomended for all the above reasons...

  I had a 482 BBC in a 2400 lb CJ5 sand digger with a powerglide and 4wd, and won
Gravelrama and the spring nationals and I'm a member of the over-the-hill gang. Most
of the vehicles in my class were lighter small blocks with 4 speeds which were
quicker out of the hole, and that's a problem on a 300 foot sand track.

The best compliment I ever got was from a competitor who said  "I heard you comming
and there was nothing I could do!"

4.2 sec @ 85 mph in 300 feet (20 years ago).   Sharpe


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 10 17:58:35 1999
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Subject: Monitoring knock sensor signals?
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I have a Jap import (to the UK where I live)Supra Mk IV twin turbo 
(1994).I'd like to monitor signals from the knock sensor,to know when 
a retard signal or whatever it tells the ECU to do,is occurring. 
Feasible ? Any ideas how ?

Thanks.
-- 
       Regards,
                Chris Wilson
    http://www.f3.u-net.com



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 10 19:44:55 1999
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@idirect.com>
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You will never
>see the fear and terror in her  eyes as you blip the throttle and break
>traction in any gear at just about any speed.


No truer words have been spoken!  Of course "her" response may have other
associated negative consequences on that same evening :)

Go Big!


Walt.


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 10 22:57:31 1999
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From: "Mike Pilkenton" <mpilkent@ptw.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Carl Summers please
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 19:51:11 -0700
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Hi Carl, I remembered getting an email address change notice from someone
but couldn't remember who that was.  Anyway, as you can read, I'm getting
close to finishing the installion portion of my conversion and will probably
be ready to fire it up in a month or so.  What's your schedule on working
with me on this ECM project?  Is it possible to meet you somewhere?  Where
about in the country do you live?

Mike
-----------------

>Hi Mike,
>        I've been out of town and haven't been able to check the mail much
>and it was overloaded.......I'll contact you over the weekend.........cyall
>later
>-Carl Summers
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 10 23:12:47 1999
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Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 20:13:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Squash <realsquash@yahoo.com>
Subject: Good reading (DIS)
To: diy efi <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Check out http://www.motorage.com/edindex/099742.htm

It explains the DIS ignition principals in good
detail.

Andy

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Apr 10 23:37:43 1999
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From: "Stowe, Ted-SEA" <StowT@PerkinsCoie.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: is there a basic Chevy v8 list ?
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 20:35:31 -0700
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I hate to bother you guys with non-efi stuff.

if anyone remembers vacuum line layouts for the Rochester 2gv (2bbl for a 73
ish 350), please email me off list. this critter has 4 and I have no idea
which is which, the Rochester books I just bought are useless for this.
(just in...special deal on slightly new Rochester books).

thanks, Ted Stowe

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 01:32:37 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Subject: Trigger Signal: MSD 6A, 7AL ??
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Does anyone know how the trigger signal for the MSD ignition boxes look 
like?  This is thru the points wire (white).  I assume it is a rising 
signal because points output a rising signal and also the testing 
procedure for the MSD is to ground and release the white wire, where the 
trigger is upon the release from ground.

Thanks in advance,

Paul Ko
pko@mindspring.com
http://www.mindspring.com/~pko
 
Formula SAE UCDavis Team Captain 
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~fsae





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From: Paul Ko <pko@engr.ucdavis.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Trigger Signal: MSD 6A, 7AL ??
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Does anyone know how the trigger signal for the MSD ignition boxes look 
like?  This is thru the points wire (white).  I assume it is a rising 
signal because points output a rising signal and also the testing 
procedure for the MSD is to ground and release the white wire, where the 
trigger is upon the release from ground.

Thanks in advance,

Paul Ko
pko@mindspring.com
http://www.mindspring.com/~pko
 
Formula SAE UCDavis Team Captain 
http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~fsae





From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 04:27:47 1999
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From: Martin Easterbrook <martin.easterbrook@virgin.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Monitoring knock sensor signals?
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 09:24:41 +0100
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I have a unit I purchased from the UK importer of "Link" automotive 
electronics parts.  It's called a "Knocklink" and comes in a small box with 
several lights on it to indicate knock severity.  It T's in to the knock 
sensor output and doesn't affect its normal operation.

I bought it from an ad in CCC about 18months ago but for one reason and 
another I haven't finished fitting it yet (not that it's a difficult job, I 
just lost interest in working on the car).  I'm planning on finishing it 
off and fitting the "lambdalink" mixture monitor over the next couple of 
weeks as I've got a burst of enthusiasm again.

I haven't seen ads for these parts recently, but I'll see if I can find a 
contact number for you somewhere.
Martin

mailto:martin.easterbrook@vigin.net

-----Original Message-----
From:	Chris Wilson [SMTP:chris@f3.u-net.com]
Sent:	10 April 1999 23:03
To:	DIY_EFI Mailing List
Subject:	Monitoring knock sensor signals?

I have a Jap import (to the UK where I live)Supra Mk IV twin turbo
(1994).I'd like to monitor signals from the knock sensor,to know when
a retard signal or whatever it tells the ECU to do,is occurring.
Feasible ? Any ideas how ?

Thanks.
--
       Regards,
                Chris Wilson
    http://www.f3.u-net.com


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 07:13:22 1999
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Hi, I find that Mr Bruce Bowling write the engine control program from
efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu.  But website information of Mr. Bruce Bowling
is wrong.  I can't access it.  Who know the website address?

       zhu zhong hua



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 07:32:23 1999
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From: "Paul S. Draper" <psd105@psu.edu>
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Hi all,

I've recently decided that I want to switch my 1969 Mustang Twin Turbo 302
project from carb to efi.  The catch is, that I want to do it as cheap as
possible.  This means using stock Ford EEC-IV stuff.  My only problem is that I
want to use Low Impedance Injectors(2.2-2.4 ohms) with an EEC that was
originally designed to used High Impedance injectors (~14.50 ohms).  I know
that I just can't switch injectors without killing components within the EEC.
I have searched through the archives and have found a little bit of information
on this, but after looking at an EEC schematic I found on an FTP site, I'm a
little confused.  The information I read in the archives from Dan Malek stated
that the Switching Transistors, Zener Diodes, and Heat sinks need to be
changed.  But, I didn't see any transistors used for the injectors on the
schematic, maybe I'm looking at the wrong schematic?  The part number on it is
XSK-E7RF-3451-A1.  That part number says that it's for a 1987 Ford, and by
looking at the schematic it looks like it's from a Speed Density application.
What do I need to switch to make this work?

If anybody can help me with this I'd greatly appriciate it.  Also, for those of
you looking for Ford Injector Flow Ratings I have compiled a table on my site
with this information.  If you have anything to add, correct, or if you know
where I can find more info, please let me know.  The page can be found by
following the the link to my site in my sig line, and clicking on the OEM fuel
system components link on my front page.

Thanks,

Paul
--
Paul S. Draper
psd105@psu.edu
1969 Mustang 302 Twin Turbo Project
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/factory/9893



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 09:50:40 1999
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References: <Pine.SUN.3.91.990410222610.19545A-100000@pinto.engr.ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Re: Trigger Signal: MSD 6A, 7AL ??
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----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Ko <pko@engr.ucdavis.edu>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Cc: <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 1999 1:30 AM
Subject: Trigger Signal: MSD 6A, 7AL ??

That is correct.
>From the sound of things, I'd try inverting a signal and see where the
timing goes.
Do you have a scope where you can look at things?.
Is there anyway to eliminate some of the electronics?.
Bruce


> Does anyone know how the trigger signal for the MSD ignition boxes look
> like?  This is thru the points wire (white).  I assume it is a rising
> signal because points output a rising signal and also the testing
> procedure for the MSD is to ground and release the white wire, where the
> trigger is upon the release from ground.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Paul Ko
> pko@mindspring.com
> http://www.mindspring.com/~pko
>
> Formula SAE UCDavis Team Captain
> http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~fsae
>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 09:55:16 1999
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----- Original Message -----
From: Paul S. Draper <psd105@psu.edu>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 1999 7:30 AM
Subject: EEC-IV Modifying

Before deciding on ecms, is there a T/C  S/C  ford application (perferably
correct number of cylinders)?.
Be a shame to do a bunch of work and find out the system doesn't see Boost.
Does the ecm look for a barometric value?.
I don't know about fords strategy on stuff is why I ask.
Bruce


> Hi all,
>
> I've recently decided that I want to switch my 1969 Mustang Twin Turbo 302
> project from carb to efi.  The catch is, that I want to do it as cheap as
> possible.  This means using stock Ford EEC-IV stuff.  My only problem is
that I
> want to use Low Impedance Injectors(2.2-2.4 ohms) with an EEC that was
> originally designed to used High Impedance injectors (~14.50 ohms).  I
know
> that I just can't switch injectors without killing components within the
EEC.
> I have searched through the archives and have found a little bit of
information
> on this, but after looking at an EEC schematic I found on an FTP site, I'm
a
> little confused.  The information I read in the archives from Dan Malek
stated
> that the Switching Transistors, Zener Diodes, and Heat sinks need to be
> changed.  But, I didn't see any transistors used for the injectors on the
> schematic, maybe I'm looking at the wrong schematic?  The part number on
it is
> XSK-E7RF-3451-A1.  That part number says that it's for a 1987 Ford, and by
> looking at the schematic it looks like it's from a Speed Density
application.
> What do I need to switch to make this work?
>
> If anybody can help me with this I'd greatly appriciate it.  Also, for
those of
> you looking for Ford Injector Flow Ratings I have compiled a table on my
site
> with this information.  If you have anything to add, correct, or if you
know
> where I can find more info, please let me know.  The page can be found by
> following the the link to my site in my sig line, and clicking on the OEM
fuel
> system components link on my front page.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Paul
> --
> Paul S. Draper
> psd105@psu.edu
> 1969 Mustang 302 Twin Turbo Project
> http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/factory/9893
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 11:46:28 1999
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References: <01BE83FD.4C171BE0.martin.easterbrook@virgin.net> <371087EB.6A89A66F@psu.edu> <005901be8422$d4e84960$54633acf@nacelp>
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
Before deciding on ecms, is there a T/C  S/C  ford application (perferably

> correct number of cylinders)?.
> Be a shame to do a bunch of work and find out the system doesn't see Boost.
> Does the ecm look for a barometric value?.
> I don't know about fords strategy on stuff is why I ask.
> Bruce

I would be using a Mass-Air Flow Meter (senses air flow into engine) and EEC.
It seems to be the best choice using Ford stuff.  The T/C cars used a Vane Air
Flow meter (senses air-flow), which would probably be too restrictive for my
application as it only flows ~380 CFM.  Also the EEC is for a 2.3L 4 cyl (using
Low impedance injectors).  The S/C EEC's use a MAF meter also, but they are 3.8L
6 cyl.  Ford did/does use a Speed Density (senses Manifold Pressure) EEC for
v8's, but it doesn't respond well to camshaft changes or any MAP value higher
the Atmospheric (ie Boost).

So, I figure the best way for me to go is to used Ford's MAF EEC-IV and Meter,
and change what's necessary to allow me to use low impedance injectors.  One
idea is to pull the necessary pieces from an EEC that uses low impedance
injectors, and transplant them into the EEC that I will use.  I'm just looking
for suggestions and some insight from people on the list who might have already
done this, or know what needs to be done.

Thanks,

Paul
--
Paul S. Draper
psd105@psu.edu
1969 Mustang 302 Twin Turbo Project
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/factory/9893



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 12:41:05 1999
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Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 09:35:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Good reading (DIS)
From: "Fran and Bud" <quest100@gte.net>
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Good reference!!
Searched for more and got hits for Parts II and III but could not access the
URL.
Can you access them for additional post?
----------
>From: Squash <realsquash@yahoo.com>
>To: diy efi <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Subject: Good reading (DIS)
>Date: Sat, Apr 10, 1999, 8:13 PM
>

>Check out http://www.motorage.com/edindex/099742.htm
>
>It explains the DIS ignition principals in good
>detail.
>
>Andy
>
>_________________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 13:08:44 1999
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Why can't we just add a resistor in series to a low impedance injector 
and make it a high impedance injector?

I'm missing something here, aren't I?
jw


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 13:16:16 1999
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James Weiler wrote:

> Why can't we just add a resistor in series to a low impedance injector
> and make it a high impedance injector?
>
> I'm missing something here, aren't I?
> jw

I wish it were that easy!!!  :-)  Unfortunetly, it's not.

Paul
--
Paul S. Draper
psd105@psu.edu
1969 Mustang 302 Twin Turbo Project
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/factory/9893



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From: "Ord Millar" <ord@aei.ca>
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I know a lot of guys running EEC-IV's with boosted 302 applications, and
NONE of them read boost pressure into the EEC, they either use fuel
management units to increase fuel rail pressure with boost (usually 6:1 or
8:1), or else they program assuming boost vs. RPM is a table of constants.
These methods seem to work OK.

You could also look into the APE Speed-Brain, which connects to the standard
302-EEC IV wiring harness, but is allegedly easier to program.

There is the 7.3L Turbo Diesel truck engine, I believe they used EEC-IV
prior to 1995.  I don't know how much help a diesel calibratipon starting
point will be, however.

BTW, a company called alternative auto will modify EEC-IVs for low impedance
injectors, and their price seemed reasonable, so it can't be too difficult.

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, April 11, 1999 10:41 AM
Subject: Re: EEC-IV Modifying


>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Paul S. Draper <psd105@psu.edu>
>To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Sent: Sunday, April 11, 1999 7:30 AM
>Subject: EEC-IV Modifying
>
>Before deciding on ecms, is there a T/C  S/C  ford application (perferably
>correct number of cylinders)?.
>Be a shame to do a bunch of work and find out the system doesn't see Boost.
>Does the ecm look for a barometric value?.
>I don't know about fords strategy on stuff is why I ask.
>Bruce
>
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I've recently decided that I want to switch my 1969 Mustang Twin Turbo
302
>> project from carb to efi.  The catch is, that I want to do it as cheap as
>> possible.  This means using stock Ford EEC-IV stuff.  My only problem is
>that I
>> want to use Low Impedance Injectors(2.2-2.4 ohms) with an EEC that was
>> originally designed to used High Impedance injectors (~14.50 ohms).  I
>know
>> that I just can't switch injectors without killing components within the
>EEC.
>> I have searched through the archives and have found a little bit of
>information
>> on this, but after looking at an EEC schematic I found on an FTP site,
I'm
>a
>> little confused.  The information I read in the archives from Dan Malek
>stated
>> that the Switching Transistors, Zener Diodes, and Heat sinks need to be
>> changed.  But, I didn't see any transistors used for the injectors on the
>> schematic, maybe I'm looking at the wrong schematic?  The part number on
>it is
>> XSK-E7RF-3451-A1.  That part number says that it's for a 1987 Ford, and
by
>> looking at the schematic it looks like it's from a Speed Density
>application.
>> What do I need to switch to make this work?
>>
>> If anybody can help me with this I'd greatly appriciate it.  Also, for
>those of
>> you looking for Ford Injector Flow Ratings I have compiled a table on my
>site
>> with this information.  If you have anything to add, correct, or if you
>know
>> where I can find more info, please let me know.  The page can be found by
>> following the the link to my site in my sig line, and clicking on the OEM
>fuel
>> system components link on my front page.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Paul
>> --
>> Paul S. Draper
>> psd105@psu.edu
>> 1969 Mustang 302 Twin Turbo Project
>> http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/factory/9893
>>
>>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 14:17:45 1999
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Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 14:11:08 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "Peter D. Hipson" <mail@darkstar.mv.com>
Subject: Re: Trigger Signal: MSD 6A, 7AL ??
In-Reply-To: <Pine.SUN.3.91.990410222610.19545A-100000@pinto.engr.ucdavi
 s.edu>
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sounds like points, then. Points trigger on a falling current (points
opening after being closed), so the MSD test would be right. (I know, it
sounds backwards, but it works--a collapsing magnetic field will generate a
*much* higher voltage)

At 10:30 PM 4/10/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Does anyone know how the trigger signal for the MSD ignition boxes look 
>like?  This is thru the points wire (white).  I assume it is a rising 
>signal because points output a rising signal and also the testing 
>procedure for the MSD is to ground and release the white wire, where the 
>trigger is upon the release from ground.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Paul Ko
>pko@mindspring.com
>http://www.mindspring.com/~pko
> 
>Formula SAE UCDavis Team Captain 
>http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~fsae
>
>
>
>
>
>
Thanks, 
        Peter Hipson (founder, NEHOG)
        1995 White NA Hummer Wagon

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 14:25:41 1999
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From: "Anders Grop" <anders.grop@telia.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>, "James Weiler" <james@brc.ubc.ca>
Cc: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: SV: EEC-IV Modifying
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 20:26:20 +0200
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Hi!

I know that you can buy ballast resistors (4-5ohm) 
from Link engine management for this purpose.

How many volts are normally used with low impedance
injectors(lii)?

I have heard that for lii they use a high current initially to
get a fast opening and then the current is lowered during the "hold" period.
This is done to get a little bit more accuracy in fuel delivery compared to
what you get with high imp.inj.

Paul, please explain why you don´t want to use ballast resistors?

Regards,

Anders


-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Från: Paul S. Draper <psd105@psu.edu>
Till: James Weiler <james@brc.ubc.ca>
Kopia: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Datum: Sunday, April 11, 1999 7:33 PM
Ämne: Re: EEC-IV Modifying


>James Weiler wrote:
>
>> Why can't we just add a resistor in series to a low impedance injector
>> and make it a high impedance injector?
>>
>> I'm missing something here, aren't I?
>> jw
>
>I wish it were that easy!!!  :-)  Unfortunetly, it's not.
>
>Paul
>--
>Paul S. Draper
>psd105@psu.edu
>1969 Mustang 302 Twin Turbo Project
>http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/factory/9893
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 14:38:01 1999
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From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: EEC-IV Modifying
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At 10:06 AM 4/11/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Why can't we just add a resistor in series to a low impedance injector 
>and make it a high impedance injector?
>
>I'm missing something here, aren't I?

Yep..
That will change the overall DC resistance, but the injector will now see a
reduced voltage and will be slower to open.
===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they
didn't?!
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 14:38:10 1999
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From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: EEC-IV Modifying
In-Reply-To: <3710C375.F914DB60@psu.edu>
References: <01BE83FD.4C171BE0.martin.easterbrook@virgin.net>
 <371087EB.6A89A66F@psu.edu>
 <005901be8422$d4e84960$54633acf@nacelp>
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At 11:44 AM 4/11/99 -0400, you wrote:


>I would be using a Mass-Air Flow Meter (senses air flow into engine) and EEC.
>It seems to be the best choice using Ford stuff.  The T/C cars used a Vane Air
>Flow meter (senses air-flow), which would probably be too restrictive for my
>application as it only flows ~380 CFM.  Also the EEC is for a 2.3L 4 cyl
(using
>Low impedance injectors).  The S/C EEC's use a MAF meter also, but they are 
>3.8L
>6 cyl.  Ford did/does use a Speed Density (senses Manifold Pressure) EEC for
>v8's, but it doesn't respond well to camshaft changes or any MAP value higher
>the Atmospheric (ie Boost).

Paul,
Your best bet to place this question would probably be to ther EEC mailing
list... They have disassembled the EEC's and know them inside and out, are
writing their own "chips", have a cheap device to go on the J3 connector
and "suck" the rom out of the EEC for modification etc...
They can be subscribed to at: eec-subscribe@eelink.net

===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they
didn't?!
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 14:41:32 1999
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Ord Millar wrote:

> I know a lot of guys running EEC-IV's with boosted 302 applications, and
> NONE of them read boost pressure into the EEC, they either use fuel
> management units to increase fuel rail pressure with boost (usually 6:1 or
> 8:1), or else they program assuming boost vs. RPM is a table of constants.
> These methods seem to work OK.

If you use the right size injectors, there is no reason to use a FMU.  With the
right size injectors, fuel pressure can be brought up by having the pressure
regulator referenced to manifold pressure.

> You could also look into the APE Speed-Brain, which connects to the standard
> 302-EEC IV wiring harness, but is allegedly easier to program.

I know someone who tried to order one of these, never recieved it, and they were
beating about the bush about why they hadn't sent it after 6 weeks...Plus I
don't have alot of money to dump into anything fancy, I just want to be able to
run Low Impedance Injectors on a Mass Air EEC-IV.

> There is the 7.3L Turbo Diesel truck engine, I believe they used EEC-IV
> prior to 1995.  I don't know how much help a diesel calibratipon starting
> point will be, however.

Prolly not much.  The difference in injection style,  and the fact the the
engine doesn't run much over 3000 rpm...that'll prolly be the BIG problem.  My
engine in Naturally aspirated config pulls all the way to 6000, with a carb.

> BTW, a company called alternative auto will modify EEC-IVs for low impedance
> injectors, and their price seemed reasonable, so it can't be too difficult.

No, it can't be difficult, that's why I want to do it myself.  :-)  The other
problem is I don't fell like paying ~$200 and waiting 4-6 weeks for them to mod
it.  The other option I've seen is to buy a box that plugs in-line between the
injectors and EEC that allows you to use Low Impedance Injectors.  But it costs
~$200 too.

The whole basis for my project is to do it as cheaply as possible.  Most of the
parts I'm using are stock Ford parts, that were modified by me for this
project.  The turbos are even off of Ford production cars, pruchased for $25 ea
in perfect working order!!


Paul
(btw.  I updated my Ford Fuel Injector page this morning, I added more
injectors, P/N's, resistances, and re-organized it.)
--
Paul S. Draper
psd105@psu.edu
1969 Mustang 302 Twin Turbo Project
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/factory/9893



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 15:02:25 1999
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Hi all,

I've recently decided that I want to switch my 1969 Mustang Twin Turbo
302
project from carb to efi.  The catch is, that I want to do it as cheap
as
possible.  This means using stock Ford EEC-IV stuff.  My only problem is
that I
want to use Low Impedance Injectors(2.2-2.4 ohms) with an EEC that was
originally designed to used High Impedance injectors (~16.20 ohms).  I
know
that I just can't switch injectors without killing components within the
EEC.
I have searched through the dyiefi archives and have found a little bit
of information
on this, but after looking at an EEC schematic I found on an FTP site,
I'm a
little confused.  The information I read in the archives from Dan Malek
stated
that the Switching Transistors, Zener Diodes, and Heat sinks need to be
changed.  But, I didn't see any transistors used for the injectors on
the
schematic, maybe I'm looking at the wrong schematic?  The part number on
it is
XSK-E7RF-3451-A1.  That part number says that it's for a 1987 Ford, and
by
looking at the schematic it looks like it's from a Speed Density
application.
What do I need to switch to make this work?

If anybody can help me with this I'd greatly appreciate it.  Also, for
those of
you looking for Ford Injector Flow Ratings I have compiled a table on my
site
with this information.  If you have anything to add, correct, or if you
know
where I can find more info, please let me know.  The page can be found
by
following the the link to my site in my sig line, and clicking on the
OEM fuel
system components link on my front page.

Thanks,

Paul
--
Paul S. Draper
psd105@psu.edu
1969 Mustang 302 Twin Turbo Project
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/factory/9893

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 15:19:27 1999
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From: "Frederic Breitwieser" <frederic@xephic.dynip.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: EEC-IV Modifying for low impedance injectors
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 15:17:33 -0400
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Yes Paul, most OEM ECMs designed for high impedance injectors will fry their
output stages if lower impedance injectors are used... sorta the same
concept as putting a 2ohm speaker on a 8 ohm stereo - have your fire
extinguisher ready :)

However all is not lost... I've opened two EEC's and it appears the injector
drivers are nothing more than transistors... therefore these could be
changed to higher current capable devices, or, its entirely acceptable to
create your own cascaded output stage.  I did this with a GM ECM for the
same reason...

Its nothing more than an inductor in parallel with the ECM output and
ground, which then feeds a 1k resistor driving a large MOSFET which connects
to 12V Battery, the low-impedance injector, which in turn connects to
ground.  This worked very well for non-peak/hold style injectors.  The ECM I
used was the GM 1418 Grand National ECM (Buick V6 Turbo)

Hope that helped


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Paul S. Draper wrote:

> So, I figure the best way for me to go is to used Ford's MAF EEC-IV and Meter,
> and change what's necessary to allow me to use low impedance injectors.  One
> idea is to pull the necessary pieces from an EEC that uses low impedance
> injectors, and transplant them into the EEC that I will use.  I'm just looking
> for suggestions and some insight from people on the list who might have already
> done this, or know what needs to be done.

There is a Ford site on the web somewhere that will do the conversion for you. I
don't have the URL but a search should find it. You could drive the injectors with 2
EFI332 boards between the EEC-iv and the injectors.  Sharpe

You could do the conversion yourself with help from an EE or two.


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 15:54:53 1999
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I have a couple of EEC_IV boards that I am trying to disassemble. The
CPU and ROM  seem to be glued down then sodered into place. There is
also a heavy, clear coating (waterproofing?) over everything.

Does anyone know what will disolve this without destroying the board?

How about the glue?

Thanks in Advance   Tom Sharpe




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Frederic Breitwieser wrote:

> Yes Paul, most OEM ECMs designed for high impedance injectors will fry their
> output stages if lower impedance injectors are used... sorta the same
> concept as putting a 2ohm speaker on a 8 ohm stereo - have your fire
> extinguisher ready :)

That's what I don't want to happen.  :-)  But I do have a Fire Extinguisher in
my car just in case!

> However all is not lost... I've opened two EEC's and it appears the injector
> drivers are nothing more than transistors...

That's what I've read.

> therefore these could be
> changed to higher current capable devices,

I was thinking of making a Junk Yard trip and picking up one of each EEC, one
that I want to use, and one that was designed to run Low Impedance injectors.
Then either getting new transistors to match the low z eec, and installing them
in the other EEC, or just swaping them.

> Its nothing more than an inductor in parallel with the ECM output and
> ground, which then feeds a 1k resistor driving a large MOSFET which connects
> to 12V Battery, the low-impedance injector, which in turn connects to
> ground.
>
> Hope that helped

Yup, it did.  Though I really should stop looking at this EEC Schematic I
found...cause it has Battery Voltage,12v, going through a 390 ohm resistor in
series  and a .01uF cap in parallel, then into a 5 pin IC, out of the IC to a
3.6v? 5W diode in parallel, and a 1000pF cap in parallel, then to the injector
then to ground.  The 5 pin IC is what is confusing, or is this the MOSFET?  I'm
not an EE...just a ME with just enough electronics knowledge to get myself in
trouble...  :-)

Thanks!

Paul
--
Paul S. Draper
psd105@psu.edu
1969 Mustang 302 Twin Turbo Project
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/factory/9893



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 16:07:53 1999
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> There is a Ford site on the web somewhere that will do the conversion for you. I
> don't have the URL but a search should find it.

I know who they are, just don't want to pay them to do it.  :-)

> You could drive the injectors with 2
> EFI332 boards between the EEC-iv and the injectors.  Sharpe

What's an EFI332 Board?

> You could do the conversion yourself with help from an EE or two.

Hey, I know a couple of those EE guys!  :-)

Paul
--
Paul S. Draper
psd105@psu.edu
1969 Mustang 302 Twin Turbo Project
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/factory/9893



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 17:11:51 1999
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Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 15:05:57 -0600 (MDT)
From: Christopher M Ortega <cortega@uwyo.edu>
Subject: Briggs and Stratton
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To whom it may concern,

I am looking to replace a regular carbueration system on a briggs and
stratton 5 HP engine with a single port fuel injection system.  I was
wondering if anybody had any suggestions for feedback control, LED display
of RPM's, or the amplifier needed from the spark.  Please respond ASAP!!

Christopher Ortega


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 17:43:11 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: RE: Torque measurement
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>A dyno works the same way. The rotor of the dyno is coupled to the engine
>under test. The dyno case is supported by trunion bearings. water is
>circulated between the rotor and case. The rotor tries to turn the case, and
>a load cell on the case reads out torque.  In an engine, the crank is the
>rotor and the block is the case, a load cell on the block would read out
>torque just like a dyno does. If you want to measure off of the drive shaft
>an in line load cell would be needed. The cost of an in line is over $3K a
>tension compression load cell is around $500.
>                                                            Don

I did NOT want to read off the driveshaft--I simply suggested CALIBRATING
off of it! The torque reaction at the motor mounts is most definitely the
torque reaction of the engine/transmission ASSEMBLY, the reaction to the
output torque in the driveshaft, and therefore will vary with what gear the
tranny is in as well as with the engine's output torque.

Regards, Greg
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From:	bearbvd@sni.net [SMTP:bearbvd@sni.net]
>> Sent:	Friday, April 09, 1999 9:07 AM
>> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>> Subject:	Re: Torque measurement
>>
>> >-----Original Message-----
>> >From: Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net>
>> >To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>> >Date: Thursday, April 08, 1999 10:30 PM
>> >Subject: RE: Torque measurement
>> >
>> >
>> ><SNIP>
>> >
>> >>
>> >>Well--you would be measuring the torque output of the TRANSMISSION, not
>> the
>> >>engine--so you would need to calibrate the thing a fair amount higher
>> for
>> >>the low gears. Look at the engine-tranny package as a black box to
>> >>visualize why this is so. And calibrating with a bar stuck through the
>> >>output yoke, with the tranny in gear, might be a lot easier approach.
>> >>
>> >>Greg
>> >
>> >
>> >Hmmmm(n).  I uderstand what you are saying, but if the transmission is in
>> >neutral, and I open the throttle, the engine rotates oposite to the crank
>> >direction.  There is no output from the transmission... Is this just the
>> >energy that is being stored in the flywheel causing this oposite
>> reaction,
>> >or am I more lost than I think?
>> >
>> >Ord
>>
>> Yep--in the situation you describe, it is the reaction to the rotational
>> inertia of the ratating assembly that makes the engine rock.
>>
>> Greg
>>



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 18:40:20 1999
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From: "Pedro Haynes" <edwards@mail.sunbeach.net>
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Subject: Re: Trigger Signal: MSD 6A, 7AL ??
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 18:40:27 -0300
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Greetings all!!!
I have my computer board all soldered now for the 5 chip BDM. I was
searching for it on the site but I cannot seem to find it, What is the name
of the 5 chip bdm. In addition I like to know how my circuits work, why is
there a serial jack on the Computer board? Is it for down loading the
program?


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 18:40:03 1999
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Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 15:38:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Squash <realsquash@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Good reading (DIS)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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http://www.motorage.com/edindex/129720.htm This is
part II

And this is part III:

http://204.243.31.38/cgi-win/csearch.exe/index.htm/4855771.000/3.qf/ma?&A=2&D0=0&Dv=0&Dg=332914&Df=17&Qv=0&K1=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2emotorage%2ecom%2fedindex%2f029826%2eHTM

Don't mis-type it!

Andy
p.s. i was able to connect 2 it.



--- Fran and Bud <quest100@gte.net> wrote:
> Good reference!!
> Searched for more and got hits for Parts II and III
> but could not access the
> URL.
> Can you access them for additional post?
> ----------
> >From: Squash <realsquash@yahoo.com>
> >To: diy efi <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> >Subject: Good reading (DIS)
> >Date: Sat, Apr 10, 1999, 8:13 PM
> >
> 
> >Check out
> http://www.motorage.com/edindex/099742.htm
> >
> >It explains the DIS ignition principals in good
> >detail.
> >
> >Andy
> >
>
>_________________________________________________________
> >Do You Yahoo!?
> >Get your free @yahoo.com address at
> http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 18:42:10 1999
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From: "Pedro Haynes" <edwards@mail.sunbeach.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Now the BDM
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 18:42:24 -0300
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>Greetings all!!!
>I have my computer board all soldered now for the 5 chip BDM. I was
>searching for it on the site but I cannot seem to find it, What is the name
>of the 5 chip bdm. In addition I like to know how my circuits work, why is
>there a serial jack on the Computer board? Is it for down loading the
>program?
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 18:48:05 1999
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Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 18:46:31 -0400
To: gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Conversion suggestions...
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Hello all,
My brother has an interesting (?) project...
He has a 1980 Dodge Van with a 225 slant 6.  It has a Holley 1bbl carb and
runs like crap.
He wants to go with EFI, but doesn't want to go Port fuel injection unless
there was a manifold/fuel rail made for this engine from the factory
(afraid to try and cut it up!).  I don't think there was, so he's going TBI.
Curious what GM factory TBI setup would work for him and be close out of
the box... did any of the GM trucks come with an inline 6 and TBI?
Thanks,
Dave

===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they
didn't?!
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 18:53:28 1999
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Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 18:51:51 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Conversion suggestions...
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Think I answered part of my own question...
Looking through the OTC PROM ID supplement (thru 91) it shows a 4.1L 6 in
1984 (Vin D).
Used a 1226021 ECM, but no idea if it was TBI or carb'd...
Also shows 4 cal's for it...
AKB8233, AKC8238, AKD8246 and AMO8252

If anyone has any more info, It would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Dave



At 06:46 PM 4/11/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Hello all,
>My brother has an interesting (?) project...
>He has a 1980 Dodge Van with a 225 slant 6.  It has a Holley 1bbl carb and
>runs like crap.
>He wants to go with EFI, but doesn't want to go Port fuel injection unless
>there was a manifold/fuel rail made for this engine from the factory
>(afraid to try and cut it up!).  I don't think there was, so he's going TBI.
>Curious what GM factory TBI setup would work for him and be close out of
>the box... did any of the GM trucks come with an inline 6 and TBI?

===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
       Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they
didn't?!
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 19:30:07 1999
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>My brother has an interesting (?) project...
>He has a 1980 Dodge Van with a 225 slant 6.  It has a Holley 1bbl carb and
>runs like crap.
>He wants to go with EFI, but doesn't want to go Port fuel injection unless

>>Curious what GM factory TBI setup would work for him and be close out of
>the box... did any of the GM trucks come with an inline 6 and TBI?
>Thanks,
>Dave


    Howell sells a system for a 258 Jeep I-6 that uses an ECM and throttle
body from  GM 4.3L V-6/5.0 L V-8 trucks.  I can't think of too many reasons
you couldn't get a similar foundation to work on the Dodge slant 6 with a
little work.

Soren Rounds


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 20:18:56 1999
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Sorry, all carb'ed w/ California emissions.  Any time I see a prom or
ecm listing for any GM truck that's pre 1986, I suspect carb + CA. 
But I don't mind looking up cal id's, just in case.
Shannen

David A. Cooley wrote:
> 
> Think I answered part of my own question...
> Looking through the OTC PROM ID supplement (thru 91) it shows a 4.1L 6 in
> 1984 (Vin D).
> Used a 1226021 ECM, but no idea if it was TBI or carb'd...
> Also shows 4 cal's for it...
> AKB8233, AKC8238, AKD8246 and AMO8252
> 
> If anyone has any more info, It would be greatly appreciated!
> Thanks,
> Dave
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 21:45:45 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Circuit boards
References: <3710FE11.655D25CB@mtco.com>
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Tom,
	I socketed the flash chips on my 95 Camaro LT1 PCM. It had a clear
waterproofing all over the board. This seemed to also be under the chips. I
built a copper foil damn around the Flash chips, then used a heat gun to remove
the surface mount Flash chips, The heat from the heat gun melted the solder and
softened all the goo up so I could pull off the chips. I then cleaned up the
area with repeated cleaning with alcohol. Alcohol did not really disolve it ,
but with scrubbing it cleaned the board up enough to allow me to solder on the
sockets.

		Ken

Tom Sharpe wrote:
> 
> I have a couple of EEC_IV boards that I am trying to disassemble. The
> CPU and ROM  seem to be glued down then sodered into place. There is
> also a heavy, clear coating (waterproofing?) over everything.
> 
> Does anyone know what will disolve this without destroying the board?
> 
> How about the glue?
> 
> Thanks in Advance   Tom Sharpe

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 22:07:33 1999
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Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 19:02:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Good reading (DIS)
From: "Fran and Bud" <quest100@gte.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Got it!   Thanks.
Bud
----------
>From: Squash <realsquash@yahoo.com>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject: Re: Good reading (DIS)
>Date: Sun, Apr 11, 1999, 3:38 PM
>

>http://www.motorage.com/edindex/129720.htm This is
>part II
>
>And this is part III:
>
>http://204.243.31.38/cgi-win/csearch.exe/index.htm/4855771.000/3.qf/ma?&A=2
&D0=0&Dv=0
>&Dg=332914&Df=17&Qv=0&K1=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2emotorage%2ecom%2fedindex%2f029826%2eHTM
>
>Don't mis-type it!
>
>Andy
>p.s. i was able to connect 2 it.
>
>
>
>--- Fran and Bud <quest100@gte.net> wrote:
>> Good reference!!
>> Searched for more and got hits for Parts II and III
>> but could not access the
>> URL.
>> Can you access them for additional post?
>> ----------
>> >From: Squash <realsquash@yahoo.com>
>> >To: diy efi <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>> >Subject: Good reading (DIS)
>> >Date: Sat, Apr 10, 1999, 8:13 PM
>> >
>> 
>> >Check out
>> http://www.motorage.com/edindex/099742.htm
>> >
>> >It explains the DIS ignition principals in good
>> >detail.
>> >
>> >Andy
>> >
>>
>>_________________________________________________________
>> >Do You Yahoo!?
>> >Get your free @yahoo.com address at
>> http://mail.yahoo.com
>> >
>> 
>
>_________________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 22:10:27 1999
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Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 22:07:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Circuit boards
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Tom,
I think you may have answered this before, but now that you have
socketed these chips, can you remove them for programming,
just like eproms?
Thx, Mike V

> 	I socketed the flash chips on my 95 Camaro LT1 PCM. It had a clear
>  waterproofing all over the board. This seemed to also be under the chips. I
>  built a copper foil damn around the Flash chips, then used a heat gun to 
> remove
>  the surface mount Flash chips, The heat from the heat gun melted the 
solder 
> and
>  softened all the goo up so I could pull off the chips. I then cleaned up 
the
>  area with repeated cleaning with alcohol. Alcohol did not really disolve 
it ,
> 
>  but with scrubbing it cleaned the board up enough to allow me to solder on 
> the
>  sockets.


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 23:02:01 1999
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Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 22:58:06 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Conversion suggestions...
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At 08:08 PM 4/11/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Sorry, all carb'ed w/ California emissions.  Any time I see a prom or
>ecm listing for any GM truck that's pre 1986, I suspect carb + CA. 
>But I don't mind looking up cal id's, just in case.
>Shannen

Hmm...
How about the 1989 Chevy R20 pickup with the 4.8L L6?
===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
   Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
===========================================================

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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Circuit boards
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 21:07:45 -0600
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Tom

Usually mass production PCB assembly techniques, under each part is a drop 
of "crazy glue" like adhesive to hold the bit in place during wavesoldeing. 
If you have a PCB that you don't care about try acetone to dissolve the 
potting compound. Usually after the pins are desoldered, a careful 
application of force will crack the adhesive loose.

/Marc

----------
From: 	Tom Sharpe[SMTP:twsharpe@mtco.com]
Sent: 	April 11, 1999 1:54 PM
To: 	efi332@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu; diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Circuit boards

I have a couple of EEC_IV boards that I am trying to disassemble. The
CPU and ROM  seem to be glued down then sodered into place. There is
also a heavy, clear coating (waterproofing?) over everything.

Does anyone know what will disolve this without destroying the board?

How about the glue?

Thanks in Advance   Tom Sharpe






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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Apr 11 23:24:00 1999
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From: "Chris Moore" <northstar87@hotmail.com>
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Another Question about the Northstar
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 20:22:15 PDT
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Hi everyone,
  I think you all know the problem I was having.  But for those who 
don't, My wheels will not peel out.  I have a power problem in the 
low end.  Again I think it has to do with the Torque Management 
system on the 4.6 Northstar.  I was looking into just making a pulse 
generator to produce a wheel speed signal and run it into the brake 
module.  But I was thinking.  The Northstar has two wires that run 
into the PCM from the EBTCM(Electronic Brake Traction Control Module)
that have to do with the controling of the Torque Management.  The 
first wire is Delivered Torque and the second wire is Desired Torque 
Output.  These are the wires that let the PCM know how many injectors 
to shut down and how much timing to retard.  It is read by a scanner 
by percentage.0% to 100%.  Now, common sense tells me that one of the 
wires are a power wire and one is a ground or a return.  Is there any 
way that I could run the correct voltage to the PCM that will say 
that there is 0% of Torque Management and that would do away with the 
EBTCM all together.  With that being done, that would save me all the 
hassles of trying to fool the EBTCM.  There are other variables to 
that we would have to try to fool like the RPM, VSS, Throttle 
position.  If we could just figure out how much voltage to send than 
we could just get rid of the EBTCM and all the other variables would 
not matter.  I hope someone can help me.  Thanks everyone for the 
help.

Chris Moore 

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 00:14:12 1999
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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 14:17:15 +1000
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: George Gorman <george_gorman@aapl.com.au>
Subject: RE: Halp Diamond Star Motoring
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Broken OH cams in alloy heads can result from a bad overheating experience
- the head permanently warps and can put enough force on the cam bearings
to crack the cams.

This advice came courtesy of a backyarder experienced with 2 ltr mazda
626/ford telstar alloy heads.

George Gorman


At 09:08 9/04/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>Peter,
>
>Unfortunately, it is an interference engine.  The timing belts have a habit
>of breaking and taking a few (or many) valves along for the ride.  Those in
>the know recommend changing the timing and balance belts every 30,000 miles.
>I've never heard of anyone breaking a cam though, so maybe you've got
>something else going on.
>
>After markets cams are not real popular, but they do exist so you can
>probably pick up a used cam on the parts trader.  Though, once you start
>pulling parts you're likely to find out that it's not worth fixing.  
>
>Good Luck,
>Mike
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Peter Fenske [mailto:pfenske@bcit.bc.ca]
>Sent: Friday, April 09, 1999 1:48 AM
>To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject: RE: Halp Diamond Star Motoring
>
>
>
>
>Hi All
>
>Thanks to David, Bruce and Mike as well as others for help with
>the 2.0 mitsibushi..
>
>Prob was a broken exhaust cam.. Cam sensor is driven off intake cam
>broken halfway to be exact..
>
>Well hope is not an interference engine..


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 00:40:14 1999
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Subject: Re: Briggs and Stratton
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Possible that new B&S or using fuel inj. to meet emission stds.
Some Honda engines?
Also check your local drag strip and kart track.
alex
> I am looking to replace a regular 
carbueration system on a briggs and
> stratton 5 HP engine with a single port fuel injection system.  I was
> wondering if anybody had any suggestions for feedback control, LED display
> of RPM's, or the amplifier needed from the spark.  Please respond ASAP!!
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 00:40:21 1999
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Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 23:29:09 +0000
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Subject: Re: Mitsubishi MUT-II test connector
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> Does anyone know anything about Mitsubishi MUT-II test connector ? Vehicle
> what I am talking about is new 99 Pajero 2800 turbo diesel.
> 
> Connector looks like standard OBD-II connector but having little notch at
> pin # 1 end.  I have not yet measured anything from the connector but in the
> future I will do this.
> Pins populated at the connector and descriptions according OBD-II standard:
> 1 = ?
> 4 = chassis ground
> 5 = signal ground
> 7 = ISO K-line  ?
> 8 = ?
> 12 = ?
> 13 = ?
> 14 = CAN low ?
> 16 = batt +
> 
Pin 2, 7, 10 , 15  or  OBD2 pins so very  possible you have a ISO-K
for diagnostics, which most Asian cars do.  There is  clauses
in  J1962-5 that state you can use these pins for other things.
Ford uses 2 and 10 for PWM but also has pin 7 for some other use.
I have SAE J1962  1994   connector specs in  SAE HS-3000  1995 
which does not show any CAN or KWP2000.  I am not sure
if these have been fully approved as a J1850 alternative 
http://www.od2ii.com has a connector diagram showing CAN pins.
Pin 7 is at Bat. voltage logic 0 
It will be a while before I get SAE-3000 1998
You could also check ISO 14299 and 14230
alex
http://www.obd-2.com    

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 00:42:22 1999
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You're not going to like this.  That combination doesn't exist. ; ) 
The only vehicle I show with that engine in that year is the step van
chassis (P2, P3), and it's got a 1 bbl carb.  I looked at 88 and found
a 4.8 R,V truck.  It's 1 bbl carb'ed.  I think 1/2 ton vehicles were
subject to CA emissions (more stringent, more likely to have better
fuel system) and larger ones weren't.
Also, there's no TBI 3.8 that I know of.  Seriously, look into the TBI
from the Jeep I6, and GM ECM for control.  I think this is what Jason
Weir did.  He's got some stuff up on the web.
Shannen 

David A. Cooley wrote:
> 
> At 08:08 PM 4/11/99 -0400, you wrote:
> >Sorry, all carb'ed w/ California emissions.  Any time I see a prom or
> >ecm listing for any GM truck that's pre 1986, I suspect carb + CA.
> >But I don't mind looking up cal id's, just in case.
> >Shannen
> 
> Hmm...
> How about the 1989 Chevy R20 pickup with the 4.8L L6?
> ===========================================================
>            David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
>      Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
>    Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
> ===========================================================


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 01:16:41 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Circuit boards
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On Sun, 11 Apr 1999, Ken Kelly wrote:

> Tom,
> 	I socketed the flash chips on my 95 Camaro LT1 PCM. It had a clear
> waterproofing all over the board. This seemed to also be under the chips. I

I never saw any of this on my 93 Firebird LT1 ECM, but I did notice it on
the board inside the VATS box when I pulled that out.

-Eric
 93 Firebird Formula (parting out)
 66 Chevy Impala (soon to have a 93 LT1)


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Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 23:03:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Conversion suggestions...
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Hi Dave

Closest I can think is to go with the S10 2 bbl TBI setup. Use the stock
2BBl 225 intake with a adapter to mount the 2 bbl TBI. Lots of mopars
had these..

While you are at it find a leaner burn dist, use the main pickup to feed
a 8 pin HEI module tied to the ecm and stock S10 coil..

YOU will have to mount a frame mount fuel pump and the cal
may have to be richened

gL:peter



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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 02:33:38 EDT
Subject: Re: EEC-IV Modifying
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In a message dated 4/11/99 3:25:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time, psd105@psu.edu 
writes:

<< The whole basis for my project is to do it as cheaply as possible.  Most 
of the
 parts I'm using are stock Ford parts, that were modified by me for this
 project.  The turbos are even off of Ford production cars, purchased for $25 
ea
 in perfect working order!! >>

This sounds like my project. I have a 1979 Mustang, in which I will install a 
stock 5.0L HO motor, and use two T-03 turbos off of Turbo Coupes. I plan on 
running an '89 mustang 5.0 MAF EEC-IV EFI system.

For quite some time now I have been looking at how to add the low imp. 
drivers out of a 2.3L computer, into the 5.0 computer. I have disassembled 
BOTH computers, and the operation looks like it could be very simple. I have 
a few questions, and was also referred to the EEC Mailing list. However, I 
haven't had the chance to ask that list questions, and then wait around for 
the answers. But the EEC mailing list is the place to go!

John Miller
91 FHP Special Service
89/86 'stang & 85 Merkur 2.3L Turbo Hybrid
84 GT350 5.0 T-Top
79 Twin TURBO Project

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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 02:52:40 EDT
Subject: Re: EEC-IV Modifying for low impedance injectors
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In a message dated 4/11/99 4:06:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time, psd105@psu.edu 
writes:

<< The information I read in the archives from Dan Malek
 stated
 that the Switching Transistors, Zener Diodes, and Heat sinks need to be
 changed.  But, I didn't see any transistors used for the injectors on
 the
 schematic, maybe I'm looking at the wrong schematic?  >>

OK, You need to get your hands on an EEC-IV (2.3L Turbo) And crack that puppy 
open. You can see the injector drivers. HOWEVER, the 2.3L EEC only has 2 
injector drivers. One driver fires 2 injectors. So they are "Batch Fired". 
The 5.0 EEC on the other hand has one driver per injector. But the same 
drivers (Or Switching Transistors) are used to control other things as well, 
(Such as the IAC, EGR etc) and there are a total of 8 drivers (All the same) 
in ONE 2.3L EEC. 

>From what i can see, the computer sends a signal to the driver, which allows 
the current to flow through, a diode and capacitor are involved, and that's 
it. It's a very simple part of the circuit. 

Now where was that EEC-IV Schematic??? I want a copy of that! 

John Miller


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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 02:54:32 EDT
Subject: Re: EEC-IV Modifying for low impedance injectors
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In a message dated 4/11/99 4:22:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
frederic@xephic.dynip.com writes:

<< Its nothing more than an inductor in parallel with the ECM output and
 ground, which then feeds a 1k resistor driving a large MOSFET which connects
 to 12V Battery, the low-impedance injector, which in turn connects to
 ground.  This worked very well for non-peak/hold style injectors.  The ECM I
 used was the GM 1418 Grand National ECM (Buick V6 Turbo)
 
 Hope that helped >>

Ummmmmm, could that be put into a schematic, I am having a little difficulty 
picturing this....

John Miller

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 03:04:14 1999
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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 03:01:59 EDT
Subject: Re: EEC-IV Modifying for low impedance injectors
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In a message dated 4/11/99 4:51:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, psd105@psu.edu 
writes:

<< Yup, it did.  Though I really should stop looking at this EEC Schematic I
 found...cause it has Battery Voltage,12v, going through a 390 ohm resistor in
 series  and a .01uF cap in parallel, then into a 5 pin IC, out of the IC to a
 3.6v? 5W diode in parallel, and a 1000pF cap in parallel, then to the 
injector
 then to ground. >>

Oh that helped ME!!!!! I have been trying to find a way to get the values of 
the Diodes and Caps, since these are CHIP Style and soldered directly to the 
board. I Have a nice multi-tester... but it won't give me the values of these 
components.

And another thing, I made my own schematic (Reversed Engineered) of a 2.3L 
EEC driver circuit, and it MAKES NO DAMN SENSE. I understand circuits well 
enough, But this thing is WAY OUT THERE! It looks like the voltage can get to 
the injector, whether or not the Transistor (As I call a driver) is on or 
off! So what's up? It seems to be in parallel, which makes no sense, series 
would... but not parallel. I thought I had just goofed.. But it seems that 
this is how it is!

John Miller

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 06:06:02 1999
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Subject: GM 3.4 DOHC injector flow rates
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Does anyone know the flow rates for these two injector part numbers? 
They are both for the 3.4L DOHC engine (vin "X") used in the GM W-bodies.

 1995: 17090844, green & yellow

 1996: 17121882, green

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 07:14:01 1999
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From: Roy <spectric@yahoo.com>
Subject: sequential gearboxes
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Hi there

I know this is not fuel injection but thought maybe
someone would have some info.

How does a sequential gearbox change work and could it
be possible to convert a gated box ie H pattern to a
sequential change.

              Thanks Roy 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 08:01:00 1999
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References: <01BE83FD.4C171BE0.martin.easterbrook@virgin.net> <371087EB.6A89A66F@psu.edu> <005901be8422$d4e84960$54633acf@nacelp> <3710C375.F914DB60@psu.edu>
Subject: Re: EEC-IV Modifying
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 07:47:25 -0400
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What about using 2 2.3L EEC systems?

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
>
> > correct number of cylinders)?.
> > Be a shame to do a bunch of work and find out the system doesn't see
Boost.
> > Does the ecm look for a barometric value?.
> > I don't know about fords strategy on stuff is why I ask.
> > Bruce
>
> I would be using a Mass-Air Flow Meter (senses air flow into engine) and
EEC.
> It seems to be the best choice using Ford stuff.  The T/C cars used a Vane
Air
> Flow meter (senses air-flow), which would probably be too restrictive for
my
> application as it only flows ~380 CFM.  Also the EEC is for a 2.3L 4 cyl
(using
> Low impedance injectors).  The S/C EEC's use a MAF meter also, but they
are 3.8L



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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 06:53:52 -0500
From: Steve Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
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I listed a address for a company called Dynaloy  I use depot compound but
they may have just the made to remove that stuff.

Steve

Tom Sharpe wrote:

> I have a couple of EEC_IV boards that I am trying to disassemble. The
> CPU and ROM  seem to be glued down then sodered into place. There is
> also a heavy, clear coating (waterproofing?) over everything.
>
> Does anyone know what will disolve this without destroying the board?
>
> How about the glue?
>
> Thanks in Advance   Tom Sharpe




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From: "Frederic Breitwieser" <frederic@xephic.dynip.com>
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Subject: Re: EEC-IV Modifying for low impedance injectors
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>Ummmmmm, could that be put into a schematic, I am having a little
difficulty
>picturing this....


Yeah John, I'll add this to my "honeydo" list.  Let me get my taxes done
first :)


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 08:40:55 1999
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From: "g8stw" <john@g8stw.demon.co.uk>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: sequential gearboxes
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 13:39:15 +0100
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I have done some preliminary work on this, there are two possible ways, a)
using Hydraulics and b) using pneumatics.
Pneumatics being cheaper and possibly faster you also need a
micro-controller and some position sensors.

If you want to discuss this further you can email direct if you wish.

John

john@g8stw.demon.co.uk


>
> I know this is not fuel injection but thought maybe
> someone would have some info.
>
> How does a sequential gearbox change work and could it
> be possible to convert a gated box ie H pattern to a
> sequential change.
>
>               Thanks Roy


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 08:48:10 1999
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Subject: Re: sequential gearboxes
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 08:41:18 -0400
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Yes, its possible.  The Ferrari F1 style gearchange for the F355 and now the
F360 use conventional gearboxes with a hydraulic mechanism operating the
shift rail, clutch, and drive by wire (EFI content).  The Ferrari system is
pretty comprehensive with safety overrides and a fully automatic mode.  What
are you trying to do?  Is this for race or road use?

Or, do you mean to make a big motorcycle type gearbox?

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>


> Hi there
>
> I know this is not fuel injection but thought maybe
> someone would have some info.
>
> How does a sequential gearbox change work and could it
> be possible to convert a gated box ie H pattern to a
> sequential change.
>
>               Thanks Roy



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 09:02:17 1999
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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 09:01:21 -0400
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: 302 vs 460
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On Sat, 10 Apr 1999, Robert Harris wrote:

> Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 15:54:52 GMT
> From: Robert Harris <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: 302 vs 460
> 
> What type vehicle are you using?  With less than the weight of a fat lady
> separating the two and much of that compensatible by moving the battery to the
> trunk, aluminum intake and headers - contrary to popular opinion it aint gonna
> matter much.

probly a cobra kit car, I was a mechanic and did quite a few build up ( 
Jap. cars) but now I want one for me 8-)

> 
> Size - it's not that much bigger - go measure one.  

hmm

> 
> Build the torquiest 302/351 you want.   Then build a 460, put a radical cam
> and intake on it optimized for mid upper range.   The residual torque left
> over will still exceed that of the 320/351 and when it comes on the cam - it
> be all over - you can't put enough positive pressure on a 302 to catch a wound
> up 385.

good point

> 
> A bore and offset crank can take you over 500 cubic inches.
> 
> So whine and snivel and wimp out with a sissy block.   You will never
> experience the gut tearing rumble of a big block coming on.  You will never
> see the fear and terror in her  eyes as you blip the throttle and break
> traction in any gear at just about any speed.  You will miss the shock of your
> seat breaking under rocket ship acceleration.  And leaving the line in a cloud
> of smoke after sitting there at 600 rpm idle and smoking till your tired of it
> will not be one of your rewards. 

the first car I really drove alot was a 460 PI station wagon, the gas 
station was the only thing it didn't pass

> 
> But it will handle a modest bit better and every Rice Rocket in town will
> still out handle you and make you think you need viagra.   And you'll spend a
> lot more to get what a 385 (370/429/460) gives you with a stock rebuild.

good point

> 
> 1963 Ford C-600 Prison Bus Conversion "Home"
> 1971 Lincoln Continental 460 "Christine"
> 1972 "Whale" Mustang awaiting transplant
> 1978 Dodge Long Bed Peeek Up "Bundymobile"
> 
> Habaneros - not just for breakfast anymore
> 

Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 09:09:36 1999
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From: Armand Jordaan <ajordaan@dupec.co.za>
To: "'gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Eletronic throttle control
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 15:08:58 +0200
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I have a non-GM question to ask...

I have an Electro-mechanically controlled ("ETC" or "drive-by-wire") throttle body (Mannesman VDO part no X22 143 670).
Apparently it is used on the new VW Golf A4.

I can't find any idle air bypass on this throttle body, and wondered if anybody knows if the idle air is controlled by the electric motor only or is a supplemental idle actuator needed to control the idle air opening?

Armand Jordaan



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 09:20:25 1999
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From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
To: <ludis@cruzers.com>
Cc: <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: GM 3.4 DOHC injector flow rates
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 09:16:58 -0400
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I was told that *ALL* DOHC 3.4's used 30 Lb/hr injectors.

-----Original Message-----
From: Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
To: Diy_efi <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, April 12, 1999 6:04 AM
Subject: GM 3.4 DOHC injector flow rates


>Does anyone know the flow rates for these two injector part numbers? 
>They are both for the 3.4L DOHC engine (vin "X") used in the GM W-bodies.
>
> 1995: 17090844, green & yellow
>
> 1996: 17121882, green
>
>-- 
>Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
>Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 09:21:58 1999
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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 09:22:24 -0400
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Circuit boards
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Mike,
	I'm Ken not Tom, but yes I read the original chips with My
Eprom reader, I actually copied them to new Flash chips and
plugged them into the Board. The original chip images were
disassembled for our project. I have built an editor for the
fuel and ignition tables. I keep adding to it as we learn
more. Dave has a scanner running for the 94-95 LT1 PCM, and
is working on a Flash download routine. If you are working
with the 94-95 LT1 PCM drop me a line.

		Ken

ECMnut@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Tom,
> I think you may have answered this before, but now that you have
> socketed these chips, can you remove them for programming,
> just like eproms?
> Thx, Mike V
> 
> >       I socketed the flash chips on my 95 Camaro LT1 PCM. It had a clear
> >  waterproofing all over the board. This seemed to also be under the chips. I
> >  built a copper foil damn around the Flash chips, then used a heat gun to
> > remove
> >  the surface mount Flash chips, The heat from the heat gun melted the
> solder
> > and
> >  softened all the goo up so I could pull off the chips. I then cleaned up
> the
> >  area with repeated cleaning with alcohol. Alcohol did not really disolve
> it ,
> >
> >  but with scrubbing it cleaned the board up enough to allow me to solder on
> > the
> >  sockets.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 09:25:32 1999
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Subject: Re: Circuit boards
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Eric,
	The 93 PCM is a whole different beast. It uses Eprom, not
Flash and is a batch fire, not sequential EFI. I'm not sure
about construction techniques on it. 

		Ken

eclark@hoser.com wrote:
> 
> On Sun, 11 Apr 1999, Ken Kelly wrote:
> 
> > Tom,
> >       I socketed the flash chips on my 95 Camaro LT1 PCM. It had a clear
> > waterproofing all over the board. This seemed to also be under the chips. I
> 
> I never saw any of this on my 93 Firebird LT1 ECM, but I did notice it on
> the board inside the VATS box when I pulled that out.
> 
> -Eric
>  93 Firebird Formula (parting out)
>  66 Chevy Impala (soon to have a 93 LT1)

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 09:33:28 1999
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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 09:33:49 -0400
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Tom,
	When I heated my Flash chips to the point of melting the
solder, they still had something holding them to the board,
but it was soft enough that when I grabbed the chip with
some tweezers I could rock it back and forth. The chip came
of after a few seconds of twisting. I assumed it was just
the potting compound under the chip. If it was glue, the
heat softened it. NOTE: I was using a commercial heat gun,
not a hair drier.
		Ken

Marc Piccioni wrote:
> 
> Tom
> 
> Usually mass production PCB assembly techniques, under each part is a drop
> of "crazy glue" like adhesive to hold the bit in place during wavesoldeing.
> If you have a PCB that you don't care about try acetone to dissolve the
> potting compound. Usually after the pins are desoldered, a careful
> application of force will crack the adhesive loose.
> 
> /Marc
> 
> ----------
> From:   Tom Sharpe[SMTP:twsharpe@mtco.com]
> Sent:   April 11, 1999 1:54 PM
> To:     efi332@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu; diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:        Circuit boards
> 
> I have a couple of EEC_IV boards that I am trying to disassemble. The
> CPU and ROM  seem to be glued down then sodered into place. There is
> also a heavy, clear coating (waterproofing?) over everything.
> 
> Does anyone know what will disolve this without destroying the board?
> 
> How about the glue?
> 
> Thanks in Advance   Tom Sharpe
> 
> begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT
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> M(!&P$^"])!)B(W BXB2 *+!W`Z#_)*$#H"9@+J,E$20A)5-8T_\I,00`"H4'
> M0"9@(<$CL"8P^GD@@&-5H K!!: P$27Q/B@F("U!'F$B0"7A/RGO(C C\"#A
> M82%Y)* FLAR\/$1O!Y$`<"<P*E%K;O];@"80*#(Q`RJQ*O4AH0/P[R2@*8(N
> M42G ;U>D)+)1@OH_'+Q(8]$I922Q(N)G/1M8\ !P:P0@)2%!9';_`' E@5I
> M/-@<O&R/4G\+9+T58C(2L#>6"H46P0!Q$ ````,`$! ``````P`1$ ````!
> M``<PP(B8#)&$O@% ``@PP(B8#)&$O@$>`#T``0````4```!213H@`````'M[
> `
> end

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 09:34:07 1999
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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 08:32:30 -0500 (CDT)
From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Another Question about the Northstar
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On Sun, 11 Apr 1999, Chris Moore wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>   I think you all know the problem I was having.  But for those who 
> don't, My wheels will not peel out.  I have a power problem in the 
> low end.  Again I think it has to do with the Torque Management 
> system on the 4.6 Northstar.  I was looking into just making a pulse 
> generator to produce a wheel speed signal and run it into the brake 
> module.  But I was thinking.  The Northstar has two wires that run 
> into the PCM from the EBTCM(Electronic Brake Traction Control Module)
> that have to do with the controling of the Torque Management.  The 
> first wire is Delivered Torque and the second wire is Desired Torque 
> Output.  These are the wires that let the PCM know how many injectors 
> to shut down and how much timing to retard.  It is read by a scanner 
> by percentage.0% to 100%.  Now, common sense tells me that one of the 
> wires are a power wire and one is a ground or a return.  Is there any 
> way that I could run the correct voltage to the PCM that will say 
> that there is 0% of Torque Management and that would do away with the 
> EBTCM all together.  With that being done, that would save me all the 
> hassles of trying to fool the EBTCM.  There are other variables to 
> that we would have to try to fool like the RPM, VSS, Throttle 
> position.  If we could just figure out how much voltage to send than 
> we could just get rid of the EBTCM and all the other variables would 
> not matter.  I hope someone can help me.  Thanks everyone for the 
> help.
> 
> Chris Moore 

Probably the best way to figure out what needs to be input is to find
a helm manual for the car you got the engine from.  The mhelm I have
for my car hass quite a bit of detail on the wiring and what sort of
signals and ranges are supposed to be on those wires.  If the wires
are "delivered torque" and "desired torque" then making sure the
"desired torque" is a higher value than the "delivered torque" would
probably make everything work correctly.   And assuming (dangerous)
that the input signals are both 5V, rig a voltage divider and give the
"desired torque" a bit higher value than the delievered torque, and
the computer should no longer back things off.   The sure way to know
though would be to find/borrow a copy of the helm for that car and
study the section on the traction control system.

			Roger


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 09:48:03 1999
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From: "Joseph Vella" <joevella@user.rose.com>
To: "diy_efi" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 09:47:46 -0400 (EDT)
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does anyone know a simple way to prevent the ecu from going into limp home
without re-programming the eproms, maybe from the diagnostic port ?

it is a '93 Audi S4 motronic, and I believe I'm getting the Manifold pressure sensor
failure mode ( due to it not agreeing with the air mass sensor, due to running
23 PSI of boost ) making it enter limp home after about 10 seconds on boost.

How long does the ECU take to recover from a power interruption (reset)
thought two was that I would reset the ECU at 5 second intervals when the boost 
exceeded 15 PSI ( say .02 sec pulse of the supply voltage ) ?

Thought 3 - which registers are responsible, I can cut a new EPROM if I have to,
but I'd rather not if it isn't necessary.

If someone has mapped one of these to 23PSI I wouldn't mind having the code ?

Thanks!


Joseph Vella
joevella!!!@user.rose.com
( remove !!! to reply, if present )

A Software Company International Inc.  
RR1 Palgrave On. Canada L0N 1P0

Large Database Developers In 
Delphi / DB2 / Java / WEB based Data Delivery
16 and 32 bit development  for Windows and OS/2

905-936-9100    Fax 905-936-9099
our home page:  http://www.rose.com/~joevella

1959 Bellanca Cruisemaster  - My Sweetie.
1995 Summit 470     1993 Audi S4Q
1890 Karn Tracker ( Pipe Organ)



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 09:59:23 1999
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From: "Ord Millar" <ord@aei.ca>
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Subject: Re: Circuit boards
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MG Chemicals conformal coating stripper, cat #831 is usually good for this.
It's really thick, so it's easy to get it just on the area that you need to
work on.  It's a little bit aggressive, so you can't leave it for too long
on the board.


-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Kelly <kenkelly@lucent.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, April 11, 1999 11:48 PM
Subject: Re: Circuit boards


>Tom,
> I socketed the flash chips on my 95 Camaro LT1 PCM. It had a clear
>waterproofing all over the board. This seemed to also be under the chips. I
>built a copper foil damn around the Flash chips, then used a heat gun to
remove
>the surface mount Flash chips, The heat from the heat gun melted the solder
and
>softened all the goo up so I could pull off the chips. I then cleaned up
the
>area with repeated cleaning with alcohol. Alcohol did not really disolve it
,
>but with scrubbing it cleaned the board up enough to allow me to solder on
the
>sockets.
>
> Ken
>
>Tom Sharpe wrote:
>>
>> I have a couple of EEC_IV boards that I am trying to disassemble. The
>> CPU and ROM  seem to be glued down then sodered into place. There is
>> also a heavy, clear coating (waterproofing?) over everything.
>>
>> Does anyone know what will disolve this without destroying the board?
>>
>> How about the glue?
>>
>> Thanks in Advance   Tom Sharpe
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 10:20:15 1999
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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 10:19:19 -0400
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: sequential gearboxes
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On Mon, 12 Apr 1999, g8stw wrote:

> 
> I have done some preliminary work on this, there are two possible ways, a)
> using Hydraulics and b) using pneumatics.
> Pneumatics being cheaper and possibly faster you also need a
> micro-controller and some position sensors.

their should be a mechanical solution like motor bikes use. picture a 
cyclinder with groves if you lose the gear shift lever so the shift rails
are available. for each gear, you make each of the 3 rails go to a given 
position eg on my landrover

f= towards the front
r= towards the rear
n= in the middle

rail ( L to R ) Rev, 3-4 and 1-2

1st              n     n       r
2nd              n     n       f
3rd              n     r       n
4th              n     f       n
rev              f     n       n

it shouldn't be hard to make this chart into a pattern of groves so when 
the cyl. rotate the rails are pushed in or pulled out.

if the trany has shilt levers I think hurst used to have a linear shifter

> 
> If you want to discuss this further you can email direct if you wish.
> 
> John
> 
> john@g8stw.demon.co.uk
> 
> 
> >
> > I know this is not fuel injection but thought maybe
> > someone would have some info.
> >
> > How does a sequential gearbox change work and could it
> > be possible to convert a gated box ie H pattern to a
> > sequential change.
> >
> >               Thanks Roy
> 
> 

Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 10:30:01 1999
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To: efi332@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Circuit boards
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The Clear Coating is Conformal coating. Check on unused corner of board and
see if the B12 carb cleaner will start it peeling. I used that on board I
used to repair. Also used the, I think name was Chemtool, stuff you soaked
carbs in to remove. As always, if carb cleaner says is dissolves plastic,
don't get in on thing you want to keep.

Failing that -- go to your nearest electronic supply store and get conformal
coat remover. (NOT radio shack:-)).

Terry

-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Sharpe [mailto:twsharpe@mtco.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 1999 2:55 PM
To: efi332@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu; diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Circuit boards


I have a couple of EEC_IV boards that I am trying to disassemble. The
CPU and ROM  seem to be glued down then sodered into place. There is
also a heavy, clear coating (waterproofing?) over everything.

Does anyone know what will disolve this without destroying the board?

How about the glue?

Thanks in Advance   Tom Sharpe



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 11:20:56 1999
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From: Matt S Bower <m.s.bower@cummins.com>
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Can anyone help me out.

I am looking for info on the ford eec IV data stream for a scantool. 
Have done some web searching and archive searching but have come up with
nothing (maybe just missed the good one?).  I normally stick with GM
(What I know and like), but wife has a '93 Taurus and what can it hurt
to see how they do things on the other side of the fence.  Any info you
can through my way will be a help.


Thanks

Matt

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 11:27:59 1999
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There is a comprehensive document on the FTP site in pdf format about
MSD ignition.  It's got a description about the inputs and outputs,
schematic, parts list, etc.  Go to the diy_efi WWW page, to ftp site
index, and it's the very last link.

--steve

Paul Ko wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know how the trigger signal for the MSD ignition boxes look
> like?  This is thru the points wire (white).  I assume it is a rising
> signal because points output a rising signal and also the testing
> procedure for the MSD is to ground and release the white wire, where the
> trigger is upon the release from ground.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Paul Ko
> pko@mindspring.com
> http://www.mindspring.com/~pko
> 
> Formula SAE UCDavis Team Captain
> http://mae.engr.ucdavis.edu/~fsae

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 11:29:25 1999
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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 09:26:29 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Andrew <huntera@cadvision.com>
Subject: Injector listing
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Hi guys,
Somewhere on the web I remember seeing a listing of injectors used on
various vehicles.  Does anyone know of a site with such a listing?

Thanks,
Andrew

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 11:52:59 1999
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From: steve ravet <Steve.Ravet@arm.com>
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If it's one "module" talking to another, then the communication is
probably a digital stream ala OBD-II rather than analog signals.  Like
Roger said, though, the HELM manual is the way to go, should have all
the info (at least an indication of whether the signal is analog or
digital).

--steve


Roger Heflin wrote:
> 
> On Sun, 11 Apr 1999, Chris Moore wrote:
> 
> > Hi everyone,
> >   I think you all know the problem I was having.  But for those who
> > don't, My wheels will not peel out.  I have a power problem in the
> > low end.  Again I think it has to do with the Torque Management
> > system on the 4.6 Northstar.  I was looking into just making a pulse
> > generator to produce a wheel speed signal and run it into the brake
> > module.  But I was thinking.  The Northstar has two wires that run
> > into the PCM from the EBTCM(Electronic Brake Traction Control Module)
> > that have to do with the controling of the Torque Management.  The
> > first wire is Delivered Torque and the second wire is Desired Torque
> > Output.  These are the wires that let the PCM know how many injectors
> > to shut down and how much timing to retard.  It is read by a scanner
> > by percentage.0% to 100%.  Now, common sense tells me that one of the
> > wires are a power wire and one is a ground or a return.  Is there any
> > way that I could run the correct voltage to the PCM that will say
> > that there is 0% of Torque Management and that would do away with the
> > EBTCM all together.  With that being done, that would save me all the
> > hassles of trying to fool the EBTCM.  There are other variables to
> > that we would have to try to fool like the RPM, VSS, Throttle
> > position.  If we could just figure out how much voltage to send than
> > we could just get rid of the EBTCM and all the other variables would
> > not matter.  I hope someone can help me.  Thanks everyone for the
> > help.
> >
> > Chris Moore
> 
> Probably the best way to figure out what needs to be input is to find
> a helm manual for the car you got the engine from.  The mhelm I have
> for my car hass quite a bit of detail on the wiring and what sort of
> signals and ranges are supposed to be on those wires.  If the wires
> are "delivered torque" and "desired torque" then making sure the
> "desired torque" is a higher value than the "delivered torque" would
> probably make everything work correctly.   And assuming (dangerous)
> that the input signals are both 5V, rig a voltage divider and give the
> "desired torque" a bit higher value than the delievered torque, and
> the computer should no longer back things off.   The sure way to know
> though would be to find/borrow a copy of the helm for that car and
> study the section on the traction control system.
> 
>                         Roger

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 11:53:49 1999
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From: Martin Easterbrook <martin_easterbrook@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: high pressure fuel pumps - recommendations?
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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I have some injectors designed for use at 16barg (230psi).  I have
measured them against other race injectors at 10bar (145psi), 16bar
(230psi) and 30bar (435psi) on my test bed and found that the
atomisation performance and linearity are very good at 16 bar and
excellent at 30bar.

I would like to run these on a car, but I need to find a suitable fuel
pump setup.  I need either a mechanical pump or a combination of
electic pumps that can supply 98 octane pump fuel for 600hp at 16bar
or 30 bar (ideally).  The pump(s) would be fed from a pressurised
pre-tank (running about 1barg).

Any recommendations?
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.co.uk address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 12:16:02 1999
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Subject: Re: Injector listing
References: <5d340afb.2442af60@aol.com> <3.0.1.32.19990412092629.0095a5f0@cadvision.com>
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I've seen a long Bosch list before posted to the list.  It should be in
the archives, a specific search should turn it up (remember to AND the
search terms to narrow the search).  There's a list of ford injectors in
the OEM/FORD section of the DIY_EFI page.  Also I've had good luck
typing part numbers directly into Altavista (casting numbers, GM part
numbers, etc.).

--steve

Andrew wrote:
> 
> Hi guys,
> Somewhere on the web I remember seeing a listing of injectors used on
> various vehicles.  Does anyone know of a site with such a listing?
> 
> Thanks,
> Andrew

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 12:32:37 1999
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autospeed.com
yaron

Andrew wrote:

> Hi guys,
> Somewhere on the web I remember seeing a listing of injectors used on
> various vehicles.  Does anyone know of a site with such a listing?
>
> Thanks,
> Andrew






From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 12:46:20 1999
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Subject: Re: high pressure fuel pumps - recommendations?
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----- Original Message ----- 
From: Martin Easterbrook <martin_easterbrook@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Monday, April 12, 1999 11:51 AM
Subject: high pressure fuel pumps - recommendations?

What style/manufacturer are these?.
Bruce


> I have some injectors designed for use at 16barg (230psi).  I have
> measured them against other race injectors at 10bar (145psi), 16bar
> (230psi) and 30bar (435psi) on my test bed and found that the
> atomisation performance and linearity are very good at 16 bar and
> excellent at 30bar.
> 
> I would like to run these on a car, but I need to find a suitable fuel
> pump setup.  I need either a mechanical pump or a combination of
> electic pumps that can supply 98 octane pump fuel for 600hp at 16bar
> or 30 bar (ideally).  The pump(s) would be fed from a pressurised
> pre-tank (running about 1barg).
> 
> Any recommendations?
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.co.uk address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 13:34:17 1999
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Torsional deflection, in radians, for a solid bar is ((L*32)/(pi*d^4))*(T/G)
where d is the diameter, T is torque and G is shear modulus.  For your axle,
I calculate 0.00267 which is 0.15 degrees.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>

>
> What about putting a postion sensor on both the inner and outer CV joint
(for
> front wheel drive engine) and measuring the twist in the driveshaft?
>
> My Mini has a 450mm by 25mm driveshaft.
>
> Anyone know rough calculations for torque v twist?
>
> The motor puts about 340 Nm on the ground (100Nm at the crank) in top
gear.
>
> --
> Tom Parker - tparker@geocities.com
>            - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 15:01:13 1999
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From: Greg Woods <gwoods@SymCA.com>
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> I have a couple of EEC_IV boards that I am trying to disassemble. The
> CPU and ROM  seem to be glued down then sodered into place. There is
> also a heavy, clear coating (waterproofing?) over everything.
> 
> Does anyone know what will disolve this without destroying the board?
> 
> How about the glue?
> 
> Thanks in Advance   Tom Sharpe

When I worked at Allied Signal in the General Aviation Division,
we coated all our boards with a product called Hemi-Seal.  It was
a sort of waterproofing that enabled our boards to pass the extremely
high humidity and salt water spray specs for FAA approval.
It was a substance that is just like what your describing.  I think
Toms right when he suggests acetone to remove it.  I think that'll 
work.  hope this helped...

Greg Woods
gwoods@symtx.com
austin, tx

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 15:43:09 1999
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Subject: RE: high pressure fuel pumps - recommendations?
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 20:35:41 +0100
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We designed them in-house for Formula One use (they're used on the McLaren, 
Prost, TWR and Jordan).  They're made by Keihin Seiki in Japan - best known 
for carburettors.  F1 customers are easy because they all 
design/manufacture their own mechanical pumps but some teams in other 
categories with less money (eg World Rally Car,  FIA GT) want to use these 
injectors too.
Martin

mailto:martin.easterbrook@vigin.net

-----Original Message-----
From:	Bruce Plecan [SMTP:nacelp@bright.net]
Sent:	12 April 1999 17:45
To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:	Re: high pressure fuel pumps - recommendations?


----- Original Message -----
From: Martin Easterbrook <martin_easterbrook@yahoo.co.uk>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Monday, April 12, 1999 11:51 AM
Subject: high pressure fuel pumps - recommendations?

What style/manufacturer are these?.
Bruce


> I have some injectors designed for use at 16barg (230psi).  I have
> measured them against other race injectors at 10bar (145psi), 16bar
> (230psi) and 30bar (435psi) on my test bed and found that the
> atomisation performance and linearity are very good at 16 bar and
> excellent at 30bar.
>
> I would like to run these on a car, but I need to find a suitable fuel
> pump setup.  I need either a mechanical pump or a combination of
> electic pumps that can supply 98 octane pump fuel for 600hp at 16bar
> or 30 bar (ideally).  The pump(s) would be fed from a pressurised
> pre-tank (running about 1barg).
>
> Any recommendations?
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.co.uk address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 15:46:31 1999
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Subject: Re: Motronic error states / limp home mode
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 12:44:52 -0700 (PDT)
In-Reply-To: <199904121302.JAA03907@user.rose.com> from "Joseph Vella" at Apr 12, 99 09:47:46 am
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> it is a '93 Audi S4 motronic, and I believe I'm getting the Manifold pressure sensor
> failure mode ( due to it not agreeing with the air mass sensor, due to running
> 23 PSI of boost ) making it enter limp home after about 10 seconds on boost.

I'm not surprised.  It has a 2.5bar sensor and 23 psi is over 2.5bar.

> How long does the ECU take to recover from a power interruption (reset)
> thought two was that I would reset the ECU at 5 second intervals when the boost 
> exceeded 15 PSI ( say .02 sec pulse of the supply voltage ) ?

Too long.  At least one revolution to resync the crank/cam sensors.  Then it
will have forgotten any knock retard it had.  Get a spark at the wrong time
and you'll likely bend a rod at that boost.

> Thought 3 - which registers are responsible, I can cut a new EPROM if I have to,
> but I'd rather not if it isn't necessary.

> If someone has mapped one of these to 23PSI I wouldn't mind having the code ?

That would be EPROMs.  There are two CPUs in the ECU, one for fuel/timing
and one for boost control/knock retard.  You would need a 3bar pressure sensor
too which entails many more changes in the tables.

This has been done, but it costs significant $.  Talk to Ned Ritchie
at Intended Acceleration... www.intendedacceleration.com for information.

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 15:59:14 1999
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From: "Mark Romans" <romans@pacbell.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Another Question about the Northstar
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 12:57:28 -0700
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Use a tech2 or diacom to look at if torque management is being used.
Northstars don't have a lot of torque.
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Heflin <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, April 12, 1999 6:58 AM
Subject: Re: Another Question about the Northstar


>
>
>On Sun, 11 Apr 1999, Chris Moore wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone,
>>   I think you all know the problem I was having.  But for those who
>> don't, My wheels will not peel out.  I have a power problem in the
>> low end.  Again I think it has to do with the Torque Management
>> system on the 4.6 Northstar.  I was looking into just making a pulse
>> generator to produce a wheel speed signal and run it into the brake
>> module.  But I was thinking.  The Northstar has two wires that run
>> into the PCM from the EBTCM(Electronic Brake Traction Control Module)
>> that have to do with the controling of the Torque Management.  The
>> first wire is Delivered Torque and the second wire is Desired Torque
>> Output.  These are the wires that let the PCM know how many injectors
>> to shut down and how much timing to retard.  It is read by a scanner
>> by percentage.0% to 100%.  Now, common sense tells me that one of the
>> wires are a power wire and one is a ground or a return.  Is there any
>> way that I could run the correct voltage to the PCM that will say
>> that there is 0% of Torque Management and that would do away with the
>> EBTCM all together.  With that being done, that would save me all the
>> hassles of trying to fool the EBTCM.  There are other variables to
>> that we would have to try to fool like the RPM, VSS, Throttle
>> position.  If we could just figure out how much voltage to send than
>> we could just get rid of the EBTCM and all the other variables would
>> not matter.  I hope someone can help me.  Thanks everyone for the
>> help.
>>
>> Chris Moore
>
>Probably the best way to figure out what needs to be input is to find
>a helm manual for the car you got the engine from.  The mhelm I have
>for my car hass quite a bit of detail on the wiring and what sort of
>signals and ranges are supposed to be on those wires.  If the wires
>are "delivered torque" and "desired torque" then making sure the
>"desired torque" is a higher value than the "delivered torque" would
>probably make everything work correctly.   And assuming (dangerous)
>that the input signals are both 5V, rig a voltage divider and give the
>"desired torque" a bit higher value than the delievered torque, and
>the computer should no longer back things off.   The sure way to know
>though would be to find/borrow a copy of the helm for that car and
>study the section on the traction control system.
>
> Roger
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 17:35:37 1999
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Subject: Re: Motronic error states / limp home mode 
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<<does anyone know a simple way to prevent the ecu from going into limp home
without re-programming the eproms, maybe from the diagnostic port ?it is a '93
Audi S4 motronic,>>

You need to talk to Garrett Lim. He knows those Bosch Motronic ECUs better than
anybody, and tweaks them better than anybody.

There should be two data link connectors somewhere in the car (check under the
shift boot). They can be jumpered to make the ECU spit out the OBD I DTC
(Diagnostic Trouble Codes), via the check engine light. You can also clear any
stored codes using the jumper method. It beats paying for a VAG 1551 scan. I
don't think the "limp mode" can be reset that way, and I don't think the codes
are stored in the EPROM either (if you wanted to do a chip swap to clear codes).

Again, Garrett can answer all your questions, and can solve your code problems
once and for all.

http://www.giacusa.com/welcome.html

Check out his sight, and drop him a line.

Jason
'93 SLC



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 18:50:12 1999
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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 18:47:00 EDT
Subject: Re: sequential gearboxes
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In a message dated 99-04-12 10:32:23 EDT, you write:

<< >
 > > How does a sequential gearbox change work and could it
 > > be possible to convert a gated box ie H pattern to a
 > > sequential change.
 > >
 > >               Thanks Roy >>

Hi, I have been looking into this. The only restrictionis the need for a CNC 
mill with an active 4th Axis and the software to program it. That and size. 
Yes, it would be similar to a motorbike. I am intersted in programming it and 
building one for a Lotus 7 type special. I will be probably be using the 1965 
Cortina GT motor and trans with an EFI system. Nicely, it has the shift 
mechanism forward enough to get rid of the problems of mounting the drum over 
the top of the box like a Mustang or similar application. Luckily, I am a rep 
for a CAD/CAM software, so I am going to do it and use it to demo some 
features. I will keep the list posted as it comes together.
Fred Harmon

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Apr 12 23:22:51 1999
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Pat Ford wrote:

> > What type vehicle are you using?  With less than the weight of a fat lady
> > separating the two and much of that compensatible by moving the battery to the
> > trunk, aluminum intake and headers - contrary to popular opinion it aint gonna
> > matter much.
>
> probly a cobra kit car,

I have a 2400 lb shell valley with a heavy kevlar body and hard top, 406 SBC,
Brodix, T350, 9" 2.75 auburn, efi, Vette brakes, yadayadayada. 11 flat@130 on street
radials. There's a stock 428 in town and another 427 with good heads, both
carburated 4 speeds. The 428 doesn't have a chance. The 427 can catch me in the
quarter if he uses a lot of clutch and tire off the line. If he hit's it too hard,
he can't catch me till 140+, he has already used up one Jag rear end.

>From a rolling start, it's even until I hit second (70mph) then he starts pulling
away. at 130 he has about 4 cars and I go third and it's over.

My point is that if you don't have a real 500HP motor, leave it in the garage.

Small blocks make good parade cars...  Sharpe





From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 00:24:17 1999
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----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Sharpe <twsharpe@mtco.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Monday, April 12, 1999 11:22 PM
Subject: Re: 302 vs 460


Yawn, My dog is smarter than your dog, is usually is for the wax brand
comparing lists.
Bruce

 > My point is that if you don't have a real 500HP motor, leave it in the
garage.
> Small blocks make good parade cars...  Sharpe



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 01:08:07 1999
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Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 01:04:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Eletronic throttle control
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  the iac valve handles all air .% of opening can be read off obd -2 data
Jim Crance
Co.,springs Co...


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 01:19:19 1999
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Subject: effect of leaded gas on wideband O2?
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I know leaded gas will poison a standard oxygen sensor, but what happens
to the UEGO wideband sensor under repeated use with leaded gas? Most of
the racers I know just leave their standard sensor in at the dragstrip
using leaded gas, then switch back to unleaded for the street. When the
sensor goes bad, about once or twice a year, they just replace it. Easy
to do with a 30 buck sensor, not so with a high dollar wideband. The
whole purpose of the wideband on my Fel-Pro system is to tune at wide
open throttle, which happens at the track with 116 octane leaded gas.
Any ideas on life expectancy? We are talking 5 or 6 passes down the
track, then back to street gas all week.
Greg Kring
Arlington, Texas


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 05:37:25 1999
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Date: 13 Apr 99 21:33:06 +1200
From: "Tom Parker" <parkert@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: Torque measurement
To: "Gary Derian" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Cool!

Doesn't look feasable though. It would be a very good sensor to have that
resolution. In first gear the torque is much greater but still same order of
magnatude which you aren't going to detect with a coulpe of hall sensors and a
magnet chip on a 10cm diamater cv joint!

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com> wrote:

>Torsional deflection, in radians, for a solid bar is ((L*32)/(pi*d^4))*(T/G)
>where d is the diameter, T is torque and G is shear modulus.  For your axle,
>I calculate 0.00267 which is 0.15 degrees.

>Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>

>>
>> What about putting a postion sensor on both the inner and outer CV joint
>(for
>> front wheel drive engine) and measuring the twist in the driveshaft?
>>
>> My Mini has a 450mm by 25mm driveshaft.
>>
>> Anyone know rough calculations for torque v twist?
>>
>> The motor puts about 340 Nm on the ground (100Nm at the crank) in top
>gear.
>>
>> --
>> Tom Parker - tparker@geocities.com
>>            - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/



--
Tom Parker - parkert@geocities.com
           - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 08:38:33 1999
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Subject: Re: effect of leaded gas on wideband O2?
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----- Original Message -----
From: greg kring <summit01@nationwide.net>
To: <DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 1:19 AM
Subject: effect of leaded gas on wideband O2?

Now bear this in mind that this is just personal theory, and I have
absolutely no doumentation on it.  But:
  Up until the last year or so Some countries were using only leaded fuels,
with O2 sensors.  So the issue of being leaded, is void, in my book.
  The US and some other countries have outlawed unleaded for street use, one
way to make that law totally enforceable for late model cars is using an
additive that kills O2 sensors.  Which also explains some of the secrecy
about what is in the gasoline we buy.
  Also, explains way there is such a large opinion as to O2 life.
  The WB O2s all seem to be heated, and I just wonder if that helps reduce
stuff from accumulating on the sensor during warm-up, which might be what is
actually killing the sensors.
  One of the designers of the Fel-Pro unit used to/might still subscribe to
the GN/Ttype list, just be sure to mention Buick V-6 in your post....
Bruce
   Sneezy's in trouble again.  Was a Hooters and thought he saw an owl move
under one of the gals shirt.  He tried protecting here, and some how got in
trouble for that....  Just doesn't pay trying to be a good samaritian

> I know leaded gas will poison a standard oxygen sensor, but what happens
> to the UEGO wideband sensor under repeated use with leaded gas? Most of
> the racers I know just leave their standard sensor in at the dragstrip
> using leaded gas, then switch back to unleaded for the street. When the
> sensor goes bad, about once or twice a year, they just replace it. Easy
> to do with a 30 buck sensor, not so with a high dollar wideband. The
> whole purpose of the wideband on my Fel-Pro system is to tune at wide
> open throttle, which happens at the track with 116 octane leaded gas.
> Any ideas on life expectancy? We are talking 5 or 6 passes down the
> track, then back to street gas all week.
> Greg Kring
> Arlington, Texas
>


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From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: effect of leaded gas on wideband O2?
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 09:09:33 -0400
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Actually,
The Export models of cars that are destined for countries with leaded fuels
have the PCM's calibrated to operate with no O2 sensors or cats.  As an
example, the Export exhaust system for the impala SS is an H pipe from the
manifolds down to the intermediate pipe that replaces the cats and has no
bungs for O2 sensors... The Saudi Syclone/Typhoons were the same way... No
cats, no O2 sensors.

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 9:03 AM
Subject: Re: effect of leaded gas on wideband O2?


>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: greg kring <summit01@nationwide.net>
>To: <DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 1:19 AM
>Subject: effect of leaded gas on wideband O2?
>
>Now bear this in mind that this is just personal theory, and I have
>absolutely no doumentation on it.  But:
>  Up until the last year or so Some countries were using only leaded fuels,
>with O2 sensors.  So the issue of being leaded, is void, in my book.
>  The US and some other countries have outlawed unleaded for street use,
one
>way to make that law totally enforceable for late model cars is using an
>additive that kills O2 sensors.  Which also explains some of the secrecy
>about what is in the gasoline we buy.
>  Also, explains way there is such a large opinion as to O2 life.
>  The WB O2s all seem to be heated, and I just wonder if that helps reduce
>stuff from accumulating on the sensor during warm-up, which might be what
is
>actually killing the sensors.
>  One of the designers of the Fel-Pro unit used to/might still subscribe to
>the GN/Ttype list, just be sure to mention Buick V-6 in your post....
>Bruce
>   Sneezy's in trouble again.  Was a Hooters and thought he saw an owl move
>under one of the gals shirt.  He tried protecting here, and some how got in
>trouble for that....  Just doesn't pay trying to be a good samaritian
>
>> I know leaded gas will poison a standard oxygen sensor, but what happens
>> to the UEGO wideband sensor under repeated use with leaded gas? Most of
>> the racers I know just leave their standard sensor in at the dragstrip
>> using leaded gas, then switch back to unleaded for the street. When the
>> sensor goes bad, about once or twice a year, they just replace it. Easy
>> to do with a 30 buck sensor, not so with a high dollar wideband. The
>> whole purpose of the wideband on my Fel-Pro system is to tune at wide
>> open throttle, which happens at the track with 116 octane leaded gas.
>> Any ideas on life expectancy? We are talking 5 or 6 passes down the
>> track, then back to street gas all week.
>> Greg Kring
>> Arlington, Texas
>>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 10:29:13 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <000401be85ae$e335a520$c8140b98@mihmp.agfa.bayer.com>
Subject: Re: effect of leaded gas on wideband O2?
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 10:28:06 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: David A. Cooley <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 9:09 AM
Subject: Re: effect of leaded gas on wideband O2?

Ya but the Holdens used O2 sensors in New Zeland the whole time.
The Saudi sy's had an O2, they snipped the wire thou.
There are some posts in the archives, where people have exported cars to
countries using leaded fuels and did just fine.
Bruce


> Actually,
> The Export models of cars that are destined for countries with leaded
fuels
> have the PCM's calibrated to operate with no O2 sensors or cats.  As an
> example, the Export exhaust system for the impala SS is an H pipe from the
> manifolds down to the intermediate pipe that replaces the cats and has no
> bungs for O2 sensors... The Saudi Syclone/Typhoons were the same way... No
> cats, no O2 sensors.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 9:03 AM
> Subject: Re: effect of leaded gas on wideband O2?
>
>
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: greg kring <summit01@nationwide.net>
> >To: <DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> >Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 1:19 AM
> >Subject: effect of leaded gas on wideband O2?
> >
> >Now bear this in mind that this is just personal theory, and I have
> >absolutely no doumentation on it.  But:
> >  Up until the last year or so Some countries were using only leaded
fuels,
> >with O2 sensors.  So the issue of being leaded, is void, in my book.
> >  The US and some other countries have outlawed unleaded for street use,
> one
> >way to make that law totally enforceable for late model cars is using an
> >additive that kills O2 sensors.  Which also explains some of the secrecy
> >about what is in the gasoline we buy.
> >  Also, explains way there is such a large opinion as to O2 life.
> >  The WB O2s all seem to be heated, and I just wonder if that helps
reduce
> >stuff from accumulating on the sensor during warm-up, which might be what
> is
> >actually killing the sensors.
> >  One of the designers of the Fel-Pro unit used to/might still subscribe
to
> >the GN/Ttype list, just be sure to mention Buick V-6 in your post....
> >Bruce
> >   Sneezy's in trouble again.  Was a Hooters and thought he saw an owl
move
> >under one of the gals shirt.  He tried protecting here, and some how got
in
> >trouble for that....  Just doesn't pay trying to be a good samaritian
> >
> >> I know leaded gas will poison a standard oxygen sensor, but what
happens
> >> to the UEGO wideband sensor under repeated use with leaded gas? Most of
> >> the racers I know just leave their standard sensor in at the dragstrip
> >> using leaded gas, then switch back to unleaded for the street. When the
> >> sensor goes bad, about once or twice a year, they just replace it. Easy
> >> to do with a 30 buck sensor, not so with a high dollar wideband. The
> >> whole purpose of the wideband on my Fel-Pro system is to tune at wide
> >> open throttle, which happens at the track with 116 octane leaded gas.
> >> Any ideas on life expectancy? We are talking 5 or 6 passes down the
> >> track, then back to street gas all week.
> >> Greg Kring
> >> Arlington, Texas
> >>
> >
> >
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 10:50:36 1999
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Subject: Re: Another Question about the Northstar
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Just open hood and pull out the relay.
This common problem on chassis dynos, the car will not even go.
I have not tested any NorthStars so not sure of exact location,
Usally a large rectangular black box similiar to ABS relay.
which you can also pull if you do not want ABS.
These are rather fail safe systems so you should not have any
crash problems. You could hook up a dash mounted switch,
and label it burn out, most Euro cars have this.  Note your idiot
lights will go on.   ABS at the 1st occurence of 55, antislip 
anything over 5 mph when slipping.
For data line I have seen wheel messages on the obd2 bus, but for
control probably uses higher speed CAN Class C protocol.
I was working on a Class B intercept box for alt fuel conversions
in 96 but have not looked into traction and brake systems yet.   
Alex
  
> Use a tech2 or diacom to look at if torque management is being used.
> Northstars don't have a lot of torque.
> Mark
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Heflin <rah@horizon.hit.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Monday, April 12, 1999 6:58 AM
> Subject: Re: Another Question about the Northstar
> 
> 
> >
> >
> >On Sun, 11 Apr 1999, Chris Moore wrote:
> >
> >> Hi everyone,
> >>   I think you all know the problem I was having.  But for those who
> >> don't, My wheels will not peel out.  I have a power problem in the
> >> low end.  Again I think it has to do with the Torque Management
> >> system on the 4.6 Northstar.  I was looking into just making a pulse
> >> generator to produce a wheel speed signal and run it into the brake
> >> module.  But I was thinking.  The Northstar has two wires that run
> >> into the PCM from the EBTCM(Electronic Brake Traction Control Module)
> >> that have to do with the controling of the Torque Management.  The
> >> first wire is Delivered Torque and the second wire is Desired Torque
> >> Output.  These are the wires that let the PCM know how many injectors
> >> to shut down and how much timing to retard.  It is read by a scanner
> >> by percentage.0% to 100%.  Now, common sense tells me that one of the
> >> wires are a power wire and one is a ground or a return.  Is there any
> >> way that I could run the correct voltage to the PCM that will say
> >> that there is 0% of Torque Management and that would do away with the
> >> EBTCM all together.  With that being done, that would save me all the
> >> hassles of trying to fool the EBTCM.  There are other variables to
> >> that we would have to try to fool like the RPM, VSS, Throttle
> >> position.  If we could just figure out how much voltage to send than
> >> we could just get rid of the EBTCM and all the other variables would
> >> not matter.  I hope someone can help me.  Thanks everyone for the
> >> help.
> >>
> >> Chris Moore
> >
> >Probably the best way to figure out what needs to be input is to find
> >a helm manual for the car you got the engine from.  The mhelm I have
> >for my car hass quite a bit of detail on the wiring and what sort of
> >signals and ranges are supposed to be on those wires.  If the wires
> >are "delivered torque" and "desired torque" then making sure the
> >"desired torque" is a higher value than the "delivered torque" would
> >probably make everything work correctly.   And assuming (dangerous)
> >that the input signals are both 5V, rig a voltage divider and give the
> >"desired torque" a bit higher value than the delievered torque, and
> >the computer should no longer back things off.   The sure way to know
> >though would be to find/borrow a copy of the helm for that car and
> >study the section on the traction control system.
> >
> > Roger
> >
> 
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 12:59:47 1999
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It's an engine swap in a Fiero.
He's installed the brake/traction control module as well as engine
controls.  Should he disconnect them?
Shannen

xxalexx@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> 
> Just open hood and pull out the relay.
> This common problem on chassis dynos, the car will not even go.
> I have not tested any NorthStars so not sure of exact location,
> Usally a large rectangular black box similiar to ABS relay.
> which you can also pull if you do not want ABS.
> These are rather fail safe systems so you should not have any
> crash problems. You could hook up a dash mounted switch,
> and label it burn out, most Euro cars have this.  Note your idiot
> lights will go on.   ABS at the 1st occurence of 55, antislip
> anything over 5 mph when slipping.
> For data line I have seen wheel messages on the obd2 bus, but for
> control probably uses higher speed CAN Class C protocol.
> I was working on a Class B intercept box for alt fuel conversions
> in 96 but have not looked into traction and brake systems yet.
> Alex
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 14:45:21 1999
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> It's an engine swap in a Fiero.
> He's installed the brake/traction control module as well as engine
> controls.  Should he disconnect them?
> Shannen
Just electrical relay box. The hydraulic brakes and mechanical 
systems will still work.  Just in case try on street with no children
and bring insurance card.
Alex
 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 16:04:35 1999
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To: <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <199904131919.OAA21543@millenicom.millenicom.com>
Subject: Re: LOOKING FOR AN ADAPTER
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 16:03:24 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: Eugene Jones <jtvette@ww-interlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@esl2.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 3:25 PM
Subject: LOOKING FOR AN ADAPTER

GM used them on the early BBC Chevy pickups.
Would I insult ya if I said it's mentioned in the archives, I think the part
no too.
Bruce


> I am looking for an adapter to use a GM tbi on a 4barrel Holly or Q-Jet
> manifold.
> Has anyone seen one advertised?
> thanks
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 16:17:16 1999
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Subject: Re: LOOKING FOR AN ADAPTER
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 16:14:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <199904131919.OAA21543@millenicom.millenicom.com> from "Eugene Jones" at Apr 13, 99 03:25:55 pm
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> 
> I am looking for an adapter to use a GM tbi on a 4barrel Holly or Q-Jet
> manifold.
> Has anyone seen one advertised?
> thanks 


edelbrock among others used to sell 2-4bbls adaptors
maybe you can modify one of those
they are in the $ 20 range

Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 16:22:51 1999
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At 09:51 AM 4/5/99 PDT, you wrote:
>Posted this question a few days ago and never saw it come across, so 
>I'll try again.
>
>Looking for advice concerning which EFI computer to use.  I'm at the 
>point where I need to buy the EFI computer for my twin turbo SBC, in a 
>street/strip '81 Corvette.  I'll be using a two bar sensor and want to 
>run it as a MAP system.  Looking at the DFI and the TEC II systems.  The 
>DFI seems to be very popular and is widely used.  I remember seeing 
>several of these computers in use at the Silver State Classic two years 
>ago.
>
>The TEC II is touted as the best thing next to the expensive Motec 
>system.  It has a data logging feature and many options for the various 
>types of software available, such as MAP, MAF.  However, by time you pay 
>for the software license, the TEC II seems to be more expensive.
>
>Based on experience is the TEC II worth the extra $$, or is the DFI 
>everything needed?  Is one easier to tune than the other?  Does one 
>system do a better job of fine tuning fuel and ignition?
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>

	I have not used either but looked at both for a friend and chose TEC II
because of the DIS ignition eliminates the distributor at the back of the
motor on SBC for some applications.  The DFI people seemed more helpful on
the phone and more focused on the hot rod market.  
	The system installed and started on a base map just fine.  Took a bi to be
familiar with it but I got it tuned to be a bit ritch especialy if you
realy had your foot in it .  The cat was removed and the car was taken to
another shop to have the bigger turbo installed and finla tunning.  It was
driven for a month first no problem but minor soot at rear.  (the car was
an early turbo Trans Am, and i dinden want to melt anything in the newly
rebuilt engine.)
	The other system we considerd in the simple digital systems in western
Canada.  The were cheaper and looked easier to get started with for not so
computer literate people, since no software is required.  
	If this is a first FI install nad you plan to keep it a long time the most
important issues are service and support.  You will need help and
replacement parts.
			Todd Israels



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 16:27:07 1999
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From: Todd Israels <israels@MNSi.Net>
Subject: Re: LOOKING FOR AN ADAPTER
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At 03:25 PM 4/13/99 -0400, you wrote:
>I am looking for an adapter to use a GM tbi on a 4barrel Holly or Q-Jet
>manifold.
>Has anyone seen one advertised?
>thanks 
>

	A 1/4 inch alluminum plate some transfer punches and a jigsaw(or mill) is
al that is needed to make one if none available.  

			Todd Israels



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 17:19:24 1999
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Subject: Racing ECM available from GM
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Maybe discontinued, but 1993 Olds Rocketparts book shows part no.
22551577 ECM for offroad applications using quad 4 engine, uses
factory inputs, supports "rocket recorder"??? data acquisition system,
and race cal's are available as sub part nos.  
Anyone have more info?

Also available is motorsports wiring harness # 22551578 for above ECM,
which has needed circuits only for use in racing classes.

This stuff may be mainly intended for SCCA classes.
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 17:33:04 1999
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From: "Simon & Heidi Young" <mothra@netspace.net.au>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: sequential gearboxes
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 14:34:48 +1000
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Finally something I can contribute to, I'm still learning all this EFI
stuff.

Of course sequential boxes are kinda EFI related as one of the advantages
they bring is the capacity to set up a "shift withou lift" system,
programmed through the ECU.

It woult be possible to rig a hydraulic or electro-mechanical system to
make an H pattern box shift like a sequential (ie the lever acts like a
seq.), the question is why bother, it will likely be more clumsy and
innefficient than a properly set up H pattern.  Anyway, if the box has
synchros you will probably not be able to use the faster shift speed a seq.
system may give you.
	
The other alternative would be to modify the box to make it a true
sequential.  This would involve mounting the forks on a rail where they are
free to slide and adding the "barrel" to make the right fork engage as the
previous one disengages.  Yes it's done exactly like a motorcycle box. 
Entirely possible and a challenging project for a well equipped machinist
but for the DIYist ?

I know where you are coming from though, how slick do those CART/BTCC/WRC
shifts look.

Simon Young
Sunbury, Australia




From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 17:34:24 1999
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Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 17:40:37 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Paul Tholey <pxtx@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Another Question about the Northstar
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My vote is NO, cause the engine works as part of the traction control,
cutting up to 5 cyl out.  If the ABS light turns on and you press the
throttle, the engine will begin to cut cyl. out to pick up for the ABS fault.

HTH

Paul Tholey 

At 12:49 PM 4/13/99 -0400, you wrote:
>It's an engine swap in a Fiero.
>He's installed the brake/traction control module as well as engine
>controls.  Should he disconnect them?
>Shannen
>
>xxalexx@ix.netcom.com wrote:
>> 
>> Just open hood and pull out the relay.
>> This common problem on chassis dynos, the car will not even go.
>> I have not tested any NorthStars so not sure of exact location,
>> Usally a large rectangular black box similiar to ABS relay.
>> which you can also pull if you do not want ABS.
>> These are rather fail safe systems so you should not have any
>> crash problems. You could hook up a dash mounted switch,
>> and label it burn out, most Euro cars have this.  Note your idiot
>> lights will go on.   ABS at the 1st occurence of 55, antislip
>> anything over 5 mph when slipping.
>> For data line I have seen wheel messages on the obd2 bus, but for
>> control probably uses higher speed CAN Class C protocol.
>> I was working on a Class B intercept box for alt fuel conversions
>> in 96 but have not looked into traction and brake systems yet.
>> Alex
>>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 17:51:44 1999
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Pretty sure I remember doing some research to get that number.  It's
called a "heater" in GM speak.
Shannen
Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Eugene Jones <jtvette@ww-interlink.net>
> To: <diy_efi@esl2.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 3:25 PM
> Subject: LOOKING FOR AN ADAPTER
> 
> GM used them on the early BBC Chevy pickups.
> Would I insult ya if I said it's mentioned in the archives, I think the part
> no too.
> Bruce
> 
> > I am looking for an adapter to use a GM tbi on a 4barrel Holly or Q-Jet
> > manifold.
> > Has anyone seen one advertised?
> > thanks
> >


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 17:56:04 1999
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Subject: Re: DFI vs TEC II
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 17:52:13 -0400
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>types of software available, such as MAP, MAF.  However, by time you pay
>for the software license, the TEC II seems to be more expensive.

Actually I did in fact reply to your message... however I just built a new
server because the old one foobar'd, therefore maybe it didn't make it
through successfully.

I have a fair amount of experience with Haltach and TecII, and for a forced
induction engine, its a mere toss-up.  The one major, major advantage of the
TEC-II is that its an under-hood bolt together system that uses OEM sensors
(or Electromotive sensors - same thing) using spade connectors.  The TEC
units have screw terminals everywhere, and you can interface this to your
engine very easily.  Go to the junkyard, buy sensors, and take the wires
going to said sensors and cut them as far back as you can.  Reduces the
price significantly actually.  The software is very expensive, however it is
as flexible as you can imagine.  Boost, no boost, MAP/MAF, etc, and you can
change your configuration very easily as you add one or two turbochargers
<grin>.

I think compared between the two, the TEC II is the leader.  Bolt it to your
firewall, and its done.




From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 18:19:16 1999
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I have an adapter from Transdapt that mates a big block TB to a SB TBI
manifold.

I also thought I just recently saw a special manifold ---er --- maybe that
was to stick a TBI manifold on the old style 350 heads...  I think that is
what it was-

________________________________________________
  Kevin Vannorsdel     IBM Arm Electronics Development
   408-256-6492                Tie 276-6492     kv@us.ibm.com



Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com> on 04/13/99 02:40:51 PM

Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

To:   diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc:    (bcc: Kevin Vannorsdel/San Jose/IBM)
Subject:  Re: LOOKING FOR AN ADAPTER





Pretty sure I remember doing some research to get that number.  It's
called a "heater" in GM speak.
Shannen
Bruce Plecan wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Eugene Jones <jtvette@ww-interlink.net>
> To: <diy_efi@esl2.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 3:25 PM
> Subject: LOOKING FOR AN ADAPTER
>
> GM used them on the early BBC Chevy pickups.
> Would I insult ya if I said it's mentioned in the archives, I think the
part
> no too.
> Bruce
>
> > I am looking for an adapter to use a GM tbi on a 4barrel Holly or Q-Jet
> > manifold.
> > Has anyone seen one advertised?
> > thanks
> >





From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 21:04:12 1999
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Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 19:02:00 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: DFI vs TEC II
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>At 09:51 AM 4/5/99 PDT, you wrote:
>>Posted this question a few days ago and never saw it come across, so
>>I'll try again.
>>
>>Looking for advice concerning which EFI computer to use.  I'm at the
>>point where I need to buy the EFI computer for my twin turbo SBC, in a
>>street/strip '81 Corvette.  I'll be using a two bar sensor and want to
>>run it as a MAP system.  Looking at the DFI and the TEC II systems.  The
>>DFI seems to be very popular and is widely used.  I remember seeing
>>several of these computers in use at the Silver State Classic two years
>>ago.
>>
>>The TEC II is touted as the best thing next to the expensive Motec
>>system.  It has a data logging feature and many options for the various
>>types of software available, such as MAP, MAF.  However, by time you pay
>>for the software license, the TEC II seems to be more expensive.
>>
>>Based on experience is the TEC II worth the extra $$, or is the DFI
>>everything needed?  Is one easier to tune than the other?  Does one
>>system do a better job of fine tuning fuel and ignition?
>>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>>
Take a hard look at Autronics if Motec is too rich for you.

Greg



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Tom Sharpe wrote:

> Pat Ford wrote:
> > probly a cobra kit car,
>
> yadayadayada.

I appologize to the list for carrying on, but Cobra drivers are wound different. I meant
to send the message offlist but failed again. Sharpe


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 21:43:44 1999
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Subject: Re: Another Question about the Northstar
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Slight correction, on dyno with relay in the ABS light goes on at 53 
mph and engine and brakes work fine.  If you do pull relay 
the engine and brakes also work ok.  If the car has antislip you
can not get it to run over 5 mph. on a dyno.  Here you are simulating
doing a burn out on ice.  The car sounds very strange in drive train
and engine almost stalls.  I did not realize the cyls.were cutting
out. I thought it was in differential and transmission.  To get it
to run pull the relay which is simular to ABS.  I usally pull
both since I have limited time on dyno to figure which one it is.
The only American car I ran was a Ford sedan.  The owners
manual said, if you want to disable antislip there is a switch
located in the left side of glovebox.  I tried this, but it seemed
to only turn off with engine running and you had to press it
on every start.  I found this out during a cold start test.
So I just yanked the relay out thru it across the room. came
back in 8 hrs and car ran fine.
Alex  
 
> My vote is NO, cause the engine works as part of the traction control,
> cutting up to 5 cyl out.  If the ABS light turns on and you press the
> throttle, the engine will begin to cut cyl. out to pick up for the ABS fault.
> 
> HTH
> 
> Paul Tholey 
> 
> At 12:49 PM 4/13/99 -0400, you wrote:
> >It's an engine swap in a Fiero.
> >He's installed the brake/traction control module as well as engine
> >controls.  Should he disconnect them?
> >Shannen
> >
> >xxalexx@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> >> 
> >> Just open hood and pull out the relay.
> >> This common problem on chassis dynos, the car will not even go.
> >> I have not tested any NorthStars so not sure of exact location,
> >> Usally a large rectangular black box similiar to ABS relay.
> >> which you can also pull if you do not want ABS.
> >> These are rather fail safe systems so you should not have any
> >> crash problems. You could hook up a dash mounted switch,
> >> and label it burn out, most Euro cars have this.  Note your idiot
> >> lights will go on.   ABS at the 1st occurence of 55, antislip
> >> anything over 5 mph when slipping.
> >> For data line I have seen wheel messages on the obd2 bus, but for
> >> control probably uses higher speed CAN Class C protocol.
> >> I was working on a Class B intercept box for alt fuel conversions
> >> in 96 but have not looked into traction and brake systems yet.
> >> Alex
> >>
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 22:32:16 1999
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To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 23:23:42 -0400
Subject: Holley Pro-Jection 4D instructions
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I just purchased the six-knob programmer that is used on Holley
Pro-Jection 4D.  I am using it on my 4Di to more easily "rough in" the
settings.  Unfortunately, I lost the instructions for using it.

If anyone has the instructions and can scan or fax them, I will be
eternally grateful.

If you scan the instructions, please send them to:

cosmicray@provide.net.

My Juno.com account doesn't receive binaries.

Thanks in advance,
Ray Drouillard

___________________________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Apr 13 22:37:13 1999
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Subject: Re: effect of leaded gas on wideband O2?
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There is some bosch part numbers in archive (not wide band)
I pulled when out of a German car last year, the exhaust
shroud was rather large and strange, and had accumulated
alot of round deposits (lead) so probably in trash can.
The catalyst has been known to go bad rather rapidly
with leaded gas.
alex   
> From:          "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
> To:            <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Subject:       Re: effect of leaded gas on wideband O2?
> Date:          Tue, 13 Apr 1999 10:28:06 -0400
> Reply-to:      diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David A. Cooley <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
> To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 9:09 AM
> Subject: Re: effect of leaded gas on wideband O2?
> 
> Ya but the Holdens used O2 sensors in New Zeland the whole time.
> The Saudi sy's had an O2, they snipped the wire thou.
> There are some posts in the archives, where people have exported cars to
> countries using leaded fuels and did just fine.
> Bruce
> 
> 
> > Actually,
> > The Export models of cars that are destined for countries with leaded
> fuels
> > have the PCM's calibrated to operate with no O2 sensors or cats.  As an
> > example, the Export exhaust system for the impala SS is an H pipe from the
> > manifolds down to the intermediate pipe that replaces the cats and has no
> > bungs for O2 sensors... The Saudi Syclone/Typhoons were the same way... No
> > cats, no O2 sensors.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
> > To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> > Date: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 9:03 AM
> > Subject: Re: effect of leaded gas on wideband O2?
> >
> >
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: greg kring <summit01@nationwide.net>
> > >To: <DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> > >Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 1:19 AM
> > >Subject: effect of leaded gas on wideband O2?
> > >
> > >Now bear this in mind that this is just personal theory, and I have
> > >absolutely no doumentation on it.  But:
> > >  Up until the last year or so Some countries were using only leaded
> fuels,
> > >with O2 sensors.  So the issue of being leaded, is void, in my book.
> > >  The US and some other countries have outlawed unleaded for street use,
> > one
> > >way to make that law totally enforceable for late model cars is using an
> > >additive that kills O2 sensors.  Which also explains some of the secrecy
> > >about what is in the gasoline we buy.
> > >  Also, explains way there is such a large opinion as to O2 life.
> > >  The WB O2s all seem to be heated, and I just wonder if that helps
> reduce
> > >stuff from accumulating on the sensor during warm-up, which might be what
> > is
> > >actually killing the sensors.
> > >  One of the designers of the Fel-Pro unit used to/might still subscribe
> to
> > >the GN/Ttype list, just be sure to mention Buick V-6 in your post....
> > >Bruce
> > >   Sneezy's in trouble again.  Was a Hooters and thought he saw an owl
> move
> > >under one of the gals shirt.  He tried protecting here, and some how got
> in
> > >trouble for that....  Just doesn't pay trying to be a good samaritian
> > >
> > >> I know leaded gas will poison a standard oxygen sensor, but what
> happens
> > >> to the UEGO wideband sensor under repeated use with leaded gas? Most of
> > >> the racers I know just leave their standard sensor in at the dragstrip
> > >> using leaded gas, then switch back to unleaded for the street. When the
> > >> sensor goes bad, about once or twice a year, they just replace it. Easy
> > >> to do with a 30 buck sensor, not so with a high dollar wideband. The
> > >> whole purpose of the wideband on my Fel-Pro system is to tune at wide
> > >> open throttle, which happens at the track with 116 octane leaded gas.
> > >> Any ideas on life expectancy? We are talking 5 or 6 passes down the
> > >> track, then back to street gas all week.
> > >> Greg Kring
> > >> Arlington, Texas
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> >
> 
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 14 01:56:24 1999
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Subject: Re: LOOKING FOR AN ADAPTER
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Howday

Not quite sure but check out Holley PN 17-41 or PN 17-45

GL:peter



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 14 07:47:57 1999
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Eugene Jones wrote:
> 
> I am looking for an adapter to use a GM tbi on a 4barrel Holly or Q-Jet
> manifold.
> Has anyone seen one advertised?
> thanks
 I got one from Turbo City awhile back, It adapt the GM TBI to the
square bore Holley bolt pattern. Was a bit pricey as I remember but it
does work.  Nico
http://www.turbocity.com

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 14 07:52:17 1999
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Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 04:53:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Roy <spectric@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DFI vs TEC II
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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--- Frederic Breitwieser <frederic@xephic.dynip.com>
wrote:
> >types of software available, such as MAP, MAF. 
> However, by time you pay
> >for the software license, the TEC II seems to be
> more expensive.
> 
> Actually I did in fact reply to your message...
> however I just built a new
> server because the old one foobar'd, therefore maybe
> it didn't make it
> through successfully.
> 
> I have a fair amount of experience with Haltach and
> TecII, and for a forced
> induction engine, its a mere toss-up.  The one
> major, major advantage of the
> TEC-II is that its an under-hood bolt together
> system that uses OEM sensors
> (or Electromotive sensors - same thing) using spade
> connectors.  The TEC
> units have screw terminals everywhere, and you can
> interface this to your
> engine very easily.  Go to the junkyard, buy
> sensors, and take the wires
> going to said sensors and cut them as far back as
> you can.  Reduces the
> price significantly actually.  The software is very
> expensive, however it is
> as flexible as you can imagine.  Boost, no boost,
> MAP/MAF, etc, and you can
> change your configuration very easily as you add one
> or two turbochargers
> <grin>.
> 
> I think compared between the two, the TEC II is the
> leader.  Bolt it to your
> firewall, and its done.
> 
> More info on TEC11 please and would it work on a 5 >
cylinder engine.
> 
>                     Thanks Roy
> 
> 

_________________________________________________________
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Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 14 11:17:34 1999
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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Holley Pro-Jection 4D instructions
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 09:18:09 -0600
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If I can remember (!) I'll scan them tonight and e-mail them to you directly.

Mike J.

----------
From: 	Raymond C Drouillard[SMTP:cosmic.ray@juno.com]
Reply To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Sent: 	Tuesday, April 13, 1999 9:23 PM
To: 	DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Holley Pro-Jection 4D instructions

I just purchased the six-knob programmer that is used on Holley
Pro-Jection 4D.  I am using it on my 4Di to more easily "rough in" the
settings.  Unfortunately, I lost the instructions for using it.

If anyone has the instructions and can scan or fax them, I will be
eternally grateful.

If you scan the instructions, please send them to:

cosmicray@provide.net.

My Juno.com account doesn't receive binaries.

Thanks in advance,
Ray Drouillard

___________________________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 14 11:43:14 1999
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Help ...

I'm looking for some additional information to wrap up a term paper that
I'm writing.  What I need is info/comments on various
modeling/simluation languages/tools used in industry over the years. 
Things such as product, used in what industries/type of applications,
pros & cons, etc.  Any insights into various packages or websites with
good overview info would be greatly appreciated.

If you consider this topic inappropriate for the group list, please
e-mail me directly.

TIA

-- 
. David Rhoads II  
. Applied Dynamics International
. 3800 Stone School Road, Ann Arbor, Mi 48108
. (734) 973-1300                                                
. rhoads@adi.com   website:  www.adi.com

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 14 12:29:07 1999
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Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 09:19:19 -0700
Subject: TEC II heat notes
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<<If this is a first FI install nad you plan to keep it a long time the most
important issues are service and support.  You will need help and
replacement parts.>>

Electromotive has decent support. Example: TEC II unit was heat soaked beyond
belief, and would not take a new program of communicate w/ the laptop at all.
Sent it back to Electro, and they didn't find anything wrong. Then, they heat
cycled it...and discovered that the solder around the EPROM was melting at temp.
Fixed the problem, unit sent back...all is well.

I really don't think you'll need any replacement parts for the TEC II (if you
don't heat soak it!). Most people don't balance the crank wheel well enough, so
at high rpm the magnetic pickup gets destroyed (by the out of round teeth of the
crank wheel). Most people run a little bit more of an air gap than Electromotive
recommends (let's say .025", instead of .015"...this helps eliminate the
"runout" problem). We aren't using a crank wheel (we tapped the factory engine
speed sensor signal), so I don't have to be concerned about that.


<<I think compared between the two, the TEC II is the leader.  Bolt it to your
firewall, and its done.>>

Keyword is "firewall". The heat soak problem I mentioned was due to the TEC II
being mounted to the side of an Aluminum cylinder head (where the distributor
used to be). The thermal conductivity of the mounting plate, combined with high
under hood temps...simply overwhelmed the TEC II unit, when the car was shut off
and left to sit for more than 30 minutes. We fabbed a SS heat shield, and
sandwiched some ceramic header tape between the TEC II and the cylinder head. No
problems at all. BUT...I highly recommend mounting the TEC II as far away from
the engine as possible. Get it in the battery tray, the airbox location, the
firewall...whatever. Just get it away from the engine. It can handle 180F air
temps, but it has it's limits (we found them). It's better to make custom plug
wires (in my case, we're talking custom length VW VR6 BERU plug boots w/ GM HEI
coil boots) that allow you to mount the TEC II anywhere...than to have it get
heat soaked. I think the car in question had something to do with it too. The VW
Corrado VR6 engine compartment was designed for a supercharged 1.8L four cyl.,
and not a 2.8L V6 engine. The VR6 is a high temp engine to start with, but in a
small engine compartment...things get hot under there. Very hot. Add a turbo,
and temps are even higher. I can't wait for that problem. =(

Jason
'93 SLC




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 14 12:42:31 1999
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Scientific American had an article about car companies using finite
element type software to simulate crashes, sometime in the last 3 months
or so.  They mentioned at least 2 FE programs that car companies use.

--steve

David Rhoads wrote:
> 
> Help ...
> 
> I'm looking for some additional information to wrap up a term paper that
> I'm writing.  What I need is info/comments on various
> modeling/simluation languages/tools used in industry over the years.
> Things such as product, used in what industries/type of applications,
> pros & cons, etc.  Any insights into various packages or websites with
> good overview info would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> If you consider this topic inappropriate for the group list, please
> e-mail me directly.
> 
> TIA
> 
> --
> . David Rhoads II
> . Applied Dynamics International
> . 3800 Stone School Road, Ann Arbor, Mi 48108
> . (734) 973-1300
> . rhoads@adi.com   website:  www.adi.com

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 14 21:40:04 1999
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Date: Sat, 03 Apr 1999 15:29:50 -0500
From: Tony Garcia <Tensecgn@ici.net>
Organization: G.N. Performance
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Hi everyone.Does anyone have an extra programing cable for the Acell
dfi.Also any updated software.Thanks
Tony

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 14 22:18:08 1999
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From: "Michael Selig" <mbs@itw.com>
To: <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 4 x 4 Fuel Injection 
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 22:22:40 -0700
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I am new to this list.  I am an owner of a 350 gas Hummer for the last 3
years.  Many on the Hummer mailing list have been talking about putting in a
Whipple -worm type superchargers.  I make claims that there have been
reports that the whipple is associated with bottom end going,  even with 4
bolts mains blazer engines.   Some of the problems with Off road and Fording
vehicles--are there watertigtness.  I still state that EFI is the way to go.
More low end smooth torque.  I have been waiting for this current Throttle
body injection engine to have problem, but it is hanging in there without a
whimper or a miss.   This is a post I made this week, based on several
references I have come across.  I know I have a long way to go..

----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Selig <mbs@itw.com>
To: <hml@mailinglists.org>
Sent: Monday, April 12, 1999 10:42 PM
Subject: Electronic Multiport Fuel Injection-operations 2-- long winded
alert-


For those of you gassers who may be interested in these fuel
injection systems, they are complex but really do
increase gas mileage, throttle response, Hp about 20-40, and
torque mostly at low rpms.

I have now read 1 book and several articles on fuel injection and am getting
a little more familiar with the concepts and hardware.  I revised this
twice --now it may provide some useful info.  Most of the sensors and setup
are also present on turbo diesel vehicles, so heads up.

BACKGROUND DESCRIPTION:
Fuel Injection differs from Carburetors,  in that the fuel is pressurized
before it enters the intake tract as opposed to being siphoned through a
carburetor with engine vacuum.

Early Mechanical systems were simply Nozzles and their primary function was
to atomize the fuel as it was sprayed.  The specific amount of fuel
delivered was determined by the injector pump which housed a piston for
every injector.  The displacement of the piston determined the amount of
fuel to be pumped.  The piston also pressurized the fuel.   The pump had to
be accurately, mechanically timed to the engine, like the distributor and
camshaft.

Mechanical injection systems offered several significant advantages over
carburetors, but were plagued by their lack of adaptability as well as
expensive production and maintenance costs.
Electronic injection although seemingly complex, is simpler in many ways.

There are 2 main physical types --Throttle body injection and Multiport.  In
throttle body, the injectors are placed inside the throttle body housing
above the throttle plates.  These systems look like regular carbureted
engines, and utilize wet manifolds.  Wet manifolds carries air and fuel, are
more restrictive because the runners most carry the mixture that falls out
of suspension and collects on the runner floor.  A dry manifold carries only
air.  The runners can be tailored for operating range of the engine.

Multiport injection systems (MPI) have one injector per cylinder (some have
2)  placed at the end of each runner of a dry intake manifold.  Injectors
are mounted 70-100 mm from the intake valve seat and spray atomized fuel at
the back side of the intake valve.  MPI systems still use a throttle body
with specific sized bore, not unlike a carburetor, but monitor only air.

The Injectors are specifically sized NOZZLES, but also valve actuated by
built in electric solenoids.  The electronic Control Module (ECU) determines
when each injector opens and for how long.

Fuel is provided to all the injectors by a common fuel RAIL, which is
pressurized by an electric fuel pump usually located in the fuel tank.  High
fuel pressure causes atomization of the fuel as it comes out of the nozzles.
These systems operate at standard psi and use vacuum.  Modulated pressure
regulators reduce rail pressure at times ie the amount of fuel delivered at
idle.  The regulator bleeds off excess fuel pressure back to the tank via a
return line.
Engines using forced induction are setup to provide  additional fuel under
BOOST.  As a rule,  every 1 psi of boost requires an additional 1 psi if
fuel pressure.

The injectors are sized according to their rate of flow, rather than
measured in physical dimensions of spray mechanism.  The rate is usually
calculated by the amount of fuel that the injector passes in a given time.
Aftermarket units use fuel/hour.  OEM use a more precise standard- grams or
cubic centimeters /second.

The size of the injector, pressure and volume of fuel feeding it, are fixed
characteristics that effect fuel delivery--the variable is the opening and
closing of the injectors.

The event that occurs each time an injector opens and closes is called a
DUTY CYCLE or a PULSE.  The length of time the injector stays open
determines the PULSE WIDTH.  The longer the pulse width, the more fuel being
sprayed.  During normal cruise--1 pulse/ firing cylinder.  Rapid opening of
the throttle-leads to multiple injector pulses per ignition signal.  This
provides the same enrichment function as the accelerator pump in a
carburetor.

PULSING is controlled by the Electronic control unit or computer.  Raw data
is processed and compared to data that has been programmed by the
manufacturer, but the unit can  also learn about operational or driver
patterns of a specific vehicle.  The ECU adjusts engine management via
Activators..

These systems also come in 2 varieties--SEQUENTIAL vs BATCH Firing.
Sequential--fires one injector at a time in a the sequence of the firing
order.  This offers better performance and fuel economy --but needs more
precise controls.

BATCH firing--triggers multiple injectors at a time, sometimes according to
cylinder bank-as in our gas engines.  Injectors open to 1/2 of the
programmed
pulse width and fire more than one pulse/cylinder/cycle.  Therefore only a
portion of the total fuel is injected and has to wait for the second half to
be delivered, when the intake valve opens.

The stock GM Throttle body computer pairs injection pulses.  The
ideal system sequences the injection pulses individually.


There are 2 basic control types--
MAF---MASS AIR FLOW sensed, before 1990 GM and after the
SPEED DENSITY SYSTEM.
These systems give optimal fuel mixture at all RPMs and have
made gas engines very reliable.

They involve the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) with a
Programmable Read Only Memory (PROM -our favorite) and multiple sensors.
These modules are mapped units and sense changes in
hardware --lower resistance filters, less exhaust resistance, camshaft
changes, ie and adjust accordingly.  These units have learning capability
and also
adjust to gas octane variability, air temp and driving mode (floored).

The systems have many sensors, but have been found to be extremely reliable
over many years:

Mass Air Flow Sensor-MAF--Located in the air intake and measures air flow
before reaching the engine.  It measures air volume to the cylinder by
monitoring the electrical resistance in a thin heated wire as it
is cooled by incoming air.  The more air that passes though the sensor the
more voltage is required to heat it up.  This sensor is less affected by
engine mods.

Air Change Temp sensor.  Usually located in the duct from the air cleaner
or in the intake manifold.  Measure temp of incoming air.  Used in
conjunction with the TPS. MAP/MAF to determine volumetric efficiency.

Idle air control (IAC)-Adjusts idle speed to engine load and
temp.  Threads into the housing below air intake.  Coolant is routed through
the IAC housing to enhance cold run operation.

Throttle position switch (TPS)- Tells the ECM amount and speed at
which the throttle is being opened or closed.  Measures angle of throttle
plates and how much throttle the operator is using.  Calculates Air/fuel
mixture needed during acceleration. Stock 0.54 volts. located on the
passenger side.

Knock Sensor-Works like a microphone to hear knock or pings
and retards timing..  Is imperative.  Must be installed in tge lower portion
of the block.  It must correspond with the MAP orMAF.  Safeguards against
poor quality gas.

Engine coolant temp sensor- Usually threaded into the coolant passage of the
intake manifold.  Data is used to determine cold start or warm up
enrichment, idle speed control, spark advance and Air/Fuel mixture.

Oil pressure sensor--Cuts fuel in event of oil loss.  Acts as a backup if
the relay fails.  After cranking for 5 seconds with a fail pump relay, the
oil sender will detect oil and trigger the pump.

Vehicle speed sensor--VVS --The ECU for most factory units use its input.
Aftermarket unit eliminate the VSS hookup.  The EFI will operate more
efficiently ans smoothly with it.  Most EFI vehicles use this for the
electronic speedometer, eliminating the cable drive.
===

The SPEED DENSITY SYSTEMS are basically the same as the Mass
Air Flow sensed but without the MAF and uses a Manifold
absolute sensor (MAP) instead.

Later systems use a MAP-manifold absolute pressure sensor.  This one is
cheaper, simpler, requires only a vacuum connection in addition to a harness
connection.  Factory systems mount the sensor to the intake manifold and
reads manifold pressure.  These vehicles need to be reprogrammed if
modified.

Manifold air temp sensor (MAT)-Sends air temp data to ECM.
The MAP--functions like an electronic vacuum gauge--does not
change A/F mixture.

O2 sensor-Required. Measures O2 in rhe system and converts date to voltage
which keeps incoming mixture at STOICHIOMETRIC or chemically ideal Air/Fuel
mixture of around 14.7:1.

Be they carbureted or injected, engines need to run at specific metered air
fuel mixtures.  This value changes with rpm and load.  Lean or Rich has been
used.  Lean -too much air.  Rich --too much fuel.
Air fuel has been stated in N parts of air to a constant 1 part of fuel.
Contemporary theory dictates the ideal is 14:1 for catalytic converter
operation.  Peak horsepower is attained at 13:1 ratio, but Max torque at
12.9:1 at wide open throttle.  16.7:1 is best for fuel economy and a sharp
rise in emissions, rendering a catalytic converter ineffective.  12:1 is too
rich to produce adequate horsepower and causes converter meltdown, due to
inability to burn unused fuel.  Excess fuel or too rich also washes oil from
the cylinder walls--increasing ring and bore wear.
Too lean-leads to cataclysmic event.  O2 burns at extremely high temps.
Higher combustion temps can lead to pre-ignition which can blow head gaskets
and melt pistons.

MODES:
There is a Limp home mode--in case of major system malfunction.
a OPEN LOOP mode-when not under control of the O2 sensor or
during warm up or wide open operation. Air fuel is adjusted according to the
TPS, engine rpm and other data.
CLOSED LOOP-When up to temp, wide open, and gives good gas
mileage.

GM unit notes:

There have been many variations from 1985 to now,  so there is a problem
with
compatibility of parts.

The angle of the bolt holes in the intake manifolds vary if you are
considering picking up parts a yard.  85-86 manifolds angles same as rest,
bolt to older engines.  87-92 center hole drilled at unique angle.

Always get complete setup -- sensors, harness, computer, fuel pump and
manifold from the same donor car.
There are conflicts with Beltdrive accessories, exhaust plumbing, air
cleaner.
Stand alone wiring harnesses are available.

Injectors for the 305 rated at 19 lbs/hour
For 350 22 lbs/hour.
If using small units and adapting to a 350. install adjustable fuel pressure
regular in place if stock.  Need higher pressure for smaller injectors.

Fuel Lines:
Need to be plumbed for High pressure operation--uses flare nut fittings.
Need a low pressure return line that should be at least 2/3 tge size of the
feed.  A vent tube is also needed.
Corvette  fuel lines on the passenger side,  F cars on drivers side.

FUEL RAILS:
Lines that distribute fuel to all the injectors.
Fed by incoming fuel lines, pressurized by the fuel pump and pressure
adjusted by the regulator via the Manifold vacuum signal.
Connected also to the return line.

Fuel pump:
Most TPI systems use a min fuel pressure of 40-45 psi, so an electric fuel
pump is necessary.
Factory pumps are in the fuel tanks.  OE tanks have problematic baffling to
keep fuel from running away from the sump, during low fuel cornering.  If
the pump runs dry, the engine stumbles and stalls.
The fuel pump also keep cool in the tank.  When the pump runs dry it can
quickly kill itself.  Use an EFI tank with baffling or an external pump with
fuel reservoir.

PLENUM or upper manifold:
All have cast in Passenger EGRS
Pre 89s have another passage for cold start system--a triangular port
between the 2 throttle openings for the Idle Air Control Circuit.
All Plenums have a port for inlet air temp sensor and a power brake vacuum.
90-92 incorporate vacuum for the map sensor.

SIDE RUNNERS:
The big tubes that connect from Plenum to manifold.
Passenger sides are all the same.
Drivers side varies.  Pre 89 uses the auxiliary injector.
Street and Performance offers a plug kit to mate early runners with later
electronics.
Small tube feeds air to 9th injector--all drivers side units have it.
Smaller runners support higher rpm.

Throttle bodies:
Usually around 48 mm butterflies.
Pre 89 have a small triangular port on bottom which matches to the plenum to
receive air for the IAC.

Distributor:
Ignition systems must be compatible with EFI.
The ECU reads a signal from the distributor to determine injector firing
order.

What do you think?  Does anyone know anymore??  ms


Good judgment comes from experience, and a lotta that comes from bad
judgment.
"Reality will kill you unless you deal with it through myths and metaphors."
Ray Bradbury
Michael Selig, MD, FACC.
www.lifelinecardiology.com





From diy_efi-owner  Wed Apr 14 22:40:42 1999
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From: "Chris G. Lucas" <tagurit@wwisp.com>
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Check www.gearzone.net  This is the "Home of Corvette 4+3 Overdrives".  There is
alot of information on this transmission here. Paul Blaccard (Admin) is very
informed of these and other manual transmissions.  His email is
support@gearzone.net.  Sorry it took so long, I am just onlooking the discussion
as of now.  I am wondering what I need to get started in interfacing the computer
of a 94 Z28 6speed.  I have no idea where to begin.  Thanks

Chris Lucas

WATCHmeDRV@aol.com wrote:

> I am looking for super T10 parts or the complete trans. It's a 4+3 for a
> corvette.
> If anyone can help me with some parts or a complete trans that you might have
> laying around, It would sure help me out. My # is 706-547-0052, if no answer
> please leave a message.
> Thanks,
> DETROIT AMERSON


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From: H Villemure <memvive@globetrotter.qc.ca>
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David Rhoads wrote:
> 
> Help ...
> 
> I'm looking for some additional information to wrap up a term paper that
> I'm writing.  What I need is info/comments on various
> modeling/simluation languages/tools

The Pro/Eng (Pro/Engineer) package is indeed the most complete one I
have seen with mechanical, heat transfer and motion simulations. 

Hope this helps,
-- 
Helene V.
___________________
welcome to mk2@onelist.com
visit us at http://come.to/helene-and-matti

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 15 03:07:43 1999
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Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 00:07:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Roy <spectric@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: sequential gearboxes
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Hi Simon 

        " Shift without lift " sounds good and i have
heard a little about it, is this where the engine
management system reduces engine rpm by cutting
cylinders during a gearchange ?

If I can be of any help with the EFI stuff let me know

               Roy 

--- Simon & Heidi Young <mothra@netspace.net.au>
wrote:
> 
> Finally something I can contribute to, I'm still
> learning all this EFI
> stuff.
> 
> Of course sequential boxes are kinda EFI related as
> one of the advantages
> they bring is the capacity to set up a "shift withou
> lift" system,
> programmed through the ECU.
> 
> It woult be possible to rig a hydraulic or
> electro-mechanical system to
> make an H pattern box shift like a sequential (ie
> the lever acts like a
> seq.), the question is why bother, it will likely be
> more clumsy and
> innefficient than a properly set up H pattern. 
> Anyway, if the box has
> synchros you will probably not be able to use the
> faster shift speed a seq.
> system may give you.
> 	
> The other alternative would be to modify the box to
> make it a true
> sequential.  This would involve mounting the forks
> on a rail where they are
> free to slide and adding the "barrel" to make the
> right fork engage as the
> previous one disengages.  Yes it's done exactly like
> a motorcycle box. 
> Entirely possible and a challenging project for a
> well equipped machinist
> but for the DIYist ?
> 
> I know where you are coming from though, how slick
> do those CART/BTCC/WRC
> shifts look.
> 
> Simon Young
> Sunbury, Australia
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 15 05:18:50 1999
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Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 05:16:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Simulation/Modeling Tools
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In a message dated 4/14/99 8:47:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
memvive@globetrotter.qc.ca writes:

<< David Rhoads wrote:
 > 
 > Help ...
 > 
 > I'm looking for some additional information to wrap up a term paper that
 > I'm writing.  What I need is info/comments on various
 > modeling/simluation languages/tools
 
 The Pro/Eng (Pro/Engineer) package is indeed the most complete one I
 have seen with mechanical, heat transfer and motion simulations. 
 
 Hope this helps,
 -- 
 Helene V. >>

I beg to differ. ProE is a cumbersome package. If you want to use what the 
big boys use, look to SDRC IDEAS and Fluent Rampant for design and 
Computational Fluid Dynamics respectively. This is what people like Ford, 
Ilmor and others of that caliber use. The company (an international 
aerodynamics research and consulting firm) where I was in charge of design of 
gaging and database development spent a great deal of time evaluating 
packages. We talked to a number of companies who had IDEAS and ProE 
experience and they were fairly unanimous in their recommendation for design 
and analysis. Fluent is the world leader in CFD for virtually every kind of 
fluids flow analysis as well as thermal and combustion analysis. IDEAS was 
recommended by them as a tool for preprocessing the data for their analysis 
suite. 
Talk to these people. You will find that they are both companies with strong 
educational ties.
Fred

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 15 10:42:03 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: wanted corvette transmission
References: <feb08b14.36b67233@aol.com> <3715519C.B6BF2231@wwisp.com>
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Chris,
	Check the gmecm list. Dave and I are working on this PCM. A
scanner is available on Dave's web site,
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1624/ 
and I have a PCM editor in progress. We are still working on
the Flash programmer. I socketed my chips to allow changes
for now.

		Ken

"Chris G. Lucas" wrote:
> 
> Check www.gearzone.net  This is the "Home of Corvette 4+3 Overdrives".  There is
> alot of information on this transmission here. Paul Blaccard (Admin) is very
> informed of these and other manual transmissions.  His email is
> support@gearzone.net.  Sorry it took so long, I am just onlooking the discussion
> as of now.  I am wondering what I need to get started in interfacing the computer
> of a 94 Z28 6speed.  I have no idea where to begin.  Thanks
> 
> Chris Lucas
> 
> WATCHmeDRV@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > I am looking for super T10 parts or the complete trans. It's a 4+3 for a
> > corvette.
> > If anyone can help me with some parts or a complete trans that you might have
> > laying around, It would sure help me out. My # is 706-547-0052, if no answer
> > please leave a message.
> > Thanks,
> > DETROIT AMERSON

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 15 14:40:54 1999
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Subject: TEC II
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<<More info on TEC11 please and would it work on a 5 cylinder engine.>>

Unfortunately (for Volvo/Audi folk), the TEC II direct fire ignition coils are
dual cylinder firing (and the injector firing scheme is similar). So, the TEC II
is limited to an even numbers of cylinders (4,6,8,and 12).

Jason
'93 SLC



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Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 14:51:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robert Scott Winnicki <bobw@WPI.EDU>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Twincharger controling system
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I am curently trying to build a controler for my twin charged 87 TII RX7.
The car has a 40 CI Supercharger blowing through the stock rx7 turbo.  THe
SC has a electric clutch and is curently manually operated (via a triger
on the shifter)  I have two pressure gagues mounted on the car (one
pre-Turbo and one post turbo)  Right now I usally triger the SC at about
-10 Hg then let off on the SC when I see the pre turbo gauge starts to
drop.  In addition I have a one-way check valve that allows the SC to be
bypassed

The problem:  It is really hard to manually turn on and off the SC during
anything but dragging (straight line stop and start)

I want to make a circut that will compare the pre turbo and post turbo
pressures and operated the SC according.  Any ideas?  I think I will have
to go digital, but I suck at designing circuts.  

thanks
bob


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 15 17:19:45 1999
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From: "Ord Millar" <ord@aei.ca>
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Subject: Re: Twincharger controling system
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It sounds like you could do that with two (or more) 393 type comparators.
Because their output is open-collector, you can hardware "AND" or "OR" them
if you need to.  Maybe a low pass filter first?

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Scott Winnicki <bobw@WPI.EDU>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 15, 1999 5:38 PM
Subject: Twincharger controling system


>
>I am curently trying to build a controler for my twin charged 87 TII RX7.
>The car has a 40 CI Supercharger blowing through the stock rx7 turbo.  THe
>SC has a electric clutch and is curently manually operated (via a triger
>on the shifter)  I have two pressure gagues mounted on the car (one
>pre-Turbo and one post turbo)  Right now I usally triger the SC at about
>-10 Hg then let off on the SC when I see the pre turbo gauge starts to
>drop.  In addition I have a one-way check valve that allows the SC to be
>bypassed
>
>The problem:  It is really hard to manually turn on and off the SC during
>anything but dragging (straight line stop and start)
>
>I want to make a circut that will compare the pre turbo and post turbo
>pressures and operated the SC according.  Any ideas?  I think I will have
>to go digital, but I suck at designing circuts.
>
>thanks
>bob
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 15 18:29:12 1999
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From: "Simon & Heidi Young" <mothra@netspace.net.au>
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Subject: Re: sequential gearboxes
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 20:54:58 +1000
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> 
>         " Shift without lift " sounds good and i have
> heard a little about it, is this where the engine
> management system reduces engine rpm by cutting
> cylinders during a gearchange ?

	Sorta.
	With a dog ring box you can't shift without unloading the box.  The dogs
have  a back cut which locks the gear and dog together under load. SWOL
senses the load  in the shift lever and unloads the box, letting it change.
 The exact details of what happens I could never get the engine guys
(Cosworth) to tell me but from what I've seen it is little more than the
equivalent of backing off the throttle and getting right back on as you
would in a normal clutchless change.
	The turbo engines have a "ninth" butterfly between the turbo and plenum,
this is controlled by a servo motor via the ECU, the throttle cable acts on
the main butterflys and IGV (inlet guide vane, a system to keep the turbo
spooled up while the throttle is closed).  In action SWOL simply slams the
ninth butterfly closed and open again, enough to free the dogs and let the
shift proceed. There may be a spark cut but really it happens so fast I
doubt that it is necessary.
	How things are handled on NA engines I'm not sure.  I have seen one
article in a local boy racer mag describing how to set up a flat change by
sensing clutch depression and activating a rev limiter while you shift,
dodgy at best.


	Simon
	Sunbury, Australia

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 15 21:22:04 1999
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From: "Frederic" <frederic@xephic.dynip.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Whippled Hummers
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 21:21:26 -0400
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>I am new to this list.  I am an owner of a 350 gas Hummer for the last 3
>years.  Many on the Hummer mailing list have been talking about putting in
a

Good choice :)  See my tagline :)

>Whipple -worm type superchargers.  I make claims that there have been
>reports that the whipple is associated with bottom end going,  even with 4
>bolts mains blazer engines.   Some of the problems with Off road and
Fording

Yes, whipple chargers will absolutely boost the low end, which is where you
want it considering the application for the vehicle.

>body injection engine to have problem, but it is hanging in there without a
>whimper or a miss.   This is a post I made this week, based on several


Irregardless of engine, forced induction, etc, you have to make sure its
absolutely water tight.  Being fuel injected or not doesn't make a
difference... you can always mount the ECM in a water proof metal box (small
milk box-like thing).  Gaskets, gaskets, gaskets.  EFI has a major advantage
over carbs - the engine can run in nearly any position fuel wise.  A steep
incline can result in lean or rich mixtures with a carb.  THis is why my
friends and I used a dual-holley intake, and have the carbs facing away from
one another, on a steep incline, one's rich one's lean, which helped.  Not
as much as we hoped.

EFI is really the way to go.  Use good gaskets and good sealant.

------

Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport CT 06606

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1975 Dodge D200 Extended Cab/Bed (413 + twin turbos)
2000 Twin Turbo Buick GTP V6


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 15 22:08:29 1999
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From: H Villemure <memvive@globetrotter.qc.ca>
Organization: Memoire Vive
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How much $$$?
Do you own a copy yourself?

FHPREMACH@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 4/14/99 8:47:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> memvive@globetrotter.qc.ca writes:
> 
> << David Rhoads wrote:
>  >
>  > Help ...
>  >
>  > I'm looking for some additional information to wrap up a term paper that
>  > I'm writing.  What I need is info/comments on various
>  > modeling/simluation languages/tools
> 
>  The Pro/Eng (Pro/Engineer) package is indeed the most complete one I
>  have seen with mechanical, heat transfer and motion simulations.
> 
>  Hope this helps,
>  --
>  Helene V. >>
> 
> I beg to differ. ProE is a cumbersome package. If you want to use what the
> big boys use, look to SDRC IDEAS and Fluent Rampant for design and
> Computational Fluid Dynamics respectively. This is what people like Ford,
> Ilmor and others of that caliber use. The company (an international
> aerodynamics research and consulting firm) where I was in charge of design of
> gaging and database development spent a great deal of time evaluating
> packages. We talked to a number of companies who had IDEAS and ProE
> experience and they were fairly unanimous in their recommendation for design
> and analysis. Fluent is the world leader in CFD for virtually every kind of
> fluids flow analysis as well as thermal and combustion analysis. IDEAS was
> recommended by them as a tool for preprocessing the data for their analysis
> suite.
> Talk to these people. You will find that they are both companies with strong
> educational ties.
> Fred

-- 
Helene V.
___________________
welcome to mk2@onelist.com
visit us at http://come.to/helene-and-matti

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 15 23:02:30 1999
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From: "Eugene Jones" <jtvette@ww-interlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: tbi adapter
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 23:07:04 -0400
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I asked for an adapter for a tbi to a carb intake and Bruce Plecan
responded and others.

I would like to find the gm part number to the "heater" adapter for 87-89
bigblock trucks, if anyone has it.
no, I could not find it in the efi archives.

 I have designed a 3/4" aluminum plate that will bolt efi (350 or 454 type)
to both a holley 4150/4160 intake or a holley spread-bore(quadrojet)
manifolds. if you need a copy of this drawing (in microsoft word format)
just let me know. I am having it quoted for machining by a couple of local
machine shop (Greenville, S.C.) will post price later.

thanks,
Gene Jones




From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 15 23:07:08 1999
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To: gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu,
        diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Wayne Blair <wayneb@foxboro.com.au>
Subject: ECU or ECM data files
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Hi all, I've been getting requests for .ecu file for Promedit.
Has any one built up any of these files for various ECU.
If you could post any info files you'd like to share to the 
"incoming" area I can point people at it.  
Or is there a collection of these some where ?
There is a newer version of promedit on the ftp site.
IF! I get the time I'll enhance the program so it can work with the 
TUNA style info file also. 

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< bye >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
wayne
[Brisbane Australia]

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 15 23:08:07 1999
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From: Wayne Blair <wayneb@foxboro.com.au>
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Hi all, I've been getting requests for .ecu file for Promedit.
Has any one built up any of these files for various ECU.
If you could post any info files you'd like to share to the 
"incoming" area I can point people at it.  
Or is there a collection of these some where ?
There is a newer version of promedit on the ftp site.
IF! I get the time I'll enhance the program so it can work with the 
TUNA style info file also. 

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< bye >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
wayne
[Brisbane Australia]

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 15 23:10:54 1999
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From: "Mike Pilkenton" <mpilkent@ptw.com>
To: "DIY-EFI" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: seek knowledge
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 20:05:49 -0700
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Well this is probably a basic question for you experts but I have to start
somewhere.  I understand that the various MEMCALs contain the efi tables,
fuel, spark curves, etc. in the form of hex codes programmed into the
EEPROM.  However there must be am operating system or basic program that
runs on the computer and controls the logic.  For example:

step 1:  go get engine data
step 2:  pump fuel and spark
step 3:  repeat

Although this is extremely oversimplified, my question is: does this basic
program also reside in the MEMCAL or is it resident somewhere else on the
ECM computer?  I would also like for someone to email me a sample program
perhaps converted to some common programming language so as to illustrate
the typical logic involved with runnung an efi system.  I'm not ready to
play with fuel and spark maps but just want to gain more systems level
knowledge.

Mike Pilkenton


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 15 23:17:21 1999
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I have a modified ECU file for use with promedit.  It is for use with 
any 7747 bin's.  If anybody wants to give it a try, let me know and I 
will email it to you since I don't know how to upload it to the ftp 
area.

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Apr 15 23:28:39 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Subject: Re: tbi adapter
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----- Original Message -----
From: Eugene Jones <jtvette@ww-interlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 1999 11:07 PM
Subject: tbi adapter

Try 11/18/97
Bruce


> I asked for an adapter for a tbi to a carb intake and Bruce Plecan
> responded and others.
> I would like to find the gm part number to the "heater" adapter for 87-89
> bigblock trucks, if anyone has it.
> no, I could not find it in the efi archives.
>  I have designed a 3/4" aluminum plate that will bolt efi (350 or 454
type)
> to both a holley 4150/4160 intake or a holley spread-bore(quadrojet)
> manifolds. if you need a copy of this drawing (in microsoft word format)
> just let me know. I am having it quoted for machining by a couple of local
> machine shop (Greenville, S.C.) will post price later.
> thanks,
> Gene Jones



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 16 01:16:34 1999
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From: "G. Scott Ponton" <gscottp@ix.netcom.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: sequential gearboxes
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 00:15:05 -0500
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    Well I guess I will have to put my foot in my mouth on this one :-) I
have been shifting a 4 speed without "lifting" for over 25 years. It's a
little hard on the syncros in some boxes but isn't that hard to accomplish.
It's just a matter of timing the shift with clutch and shifter. When the
timing is perfect it's unusual for the RPMs to climb more than a couple of
hundred between shifts.
    It's true that there is a need to unload the shift "dogs" in a normal
trans. Although it's not become they are back cut. It has more to do with
the surface area of the dogs. If you grind every other dog off of the gear
you don't have to use the clutch at all. This was fairly commom practice in
the 60's. They used to call them "crash boxes" Worked well until the tires
and power levels got a lot better. Then strength became a factor. For awhile
Perfection-Hi Test made special replacement shift syncro hubs and gears,
which had larger dogs much like a motorcycle trans, for the muncie trans. Do
to the liminted surface area they were prone to junmping out of gear on
de-.accell as the detents weren't stiff enough.
    If you look closely at a motorcycle trans the dogs square without a back
angle. These transmissions are held in the selected gears but fairly stout
detents and notches in the sequential "barrel". Also due to being designed
for sequential operation the surface area of the dogs is nearly equal to
that of a stock automotive transmission.
    There also used to be a company which made sequential shifters for
automotive 4 speeds. I haven't seen one advertised in over 20 years though.
It worked much like a "V-gate" other than you didn't need to lift the handle
to shift down from 3rd to 2cd. you just rowed the shifter handle back and
forth to upshift and after you were in 4th the next time you moved the
shifter you would go the other way. It never caught on, probably because you
had to shift through all the gears every time you wanted to "find" a
particular one.
    As the only thing you need to do is release the pressure on the gear set
to dis-engage the current gear it should be possible to cut one or two
ignition pulses in a NA app. Designing a shifter shouldn't be to hard to do.
You could use air, hydraulic, or even electric. With the proper cam and
ratchet design it would even be possible to upshift and downshift without
having to go all the way to 4th before you could start downshift or all the
way to 1st before upshifting.
    Just my $.02

Scott


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 16 07:46:16 1999
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Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 07:37:09 -0400
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Subject: Test needed.
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If anyone has a bench run distributor and a 2 channel O'scope, and
would be willing to run a simple test, please send E-mail off list.  I
need to see if my memory is any good.
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 16 08:44:58 1999
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Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 08:44:07
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Bob Tom <tigers@bserv.com>
Subject: Twin Turbos
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I noticed in a reply about whippled hummers that Frederic Breitwieser
has a 413 with twin turbos.  I am interested in the possibility of
running twin turbos with the current Magnum 5.2L engine.

I would be interested in hearing about your experiences,
any recommendations, and any companies/resources that
you may know that can help me with this modification.

If this subject is off-topic for the list, please
e-mail me privately.  Thanks.

Bob
Burlington, Ontario

Current: 97 CC Sport,5.2L,3.55SG auto.,4x2,Gibson dual,KN
         96 Grand Caravan ES,3.8L
         85 Shelby Intercooled Turbo Charger,2.2L,5-spd man.
         78 customized B100 with '69 340-4bbl,3-spd auto.
         70 Challenger,383-4bbl,slap-stik auto.,3.23SG,hemi orange

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 16 09:05:14 1999
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From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 7747ecu 
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 09:04:52 -0400
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I'd like to play...
-----Original Message-----
From: cwagner@info2000.net <cwagner@info2000.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 15, 1999 11:20 PM
Subject: 7747ecu 


I have a modified ECU file for use with promedit.  It is for use with 
any 7747 bin's.  If anybody wants to give it a try, let me know and I 
will email it to you since I don't know how to upload it to the ftp 
area.



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Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 09:33:11 -0400
From: David Rhoads <rhoads@adi.com>
Organization: Applied Dynamics International
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Costs, even ballpark, on some packages could be a useful piece of
additional information.  The following message was sent to me offlist;

Subject: tion and Modeling
   Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 21:45:36 -0400
  From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@oh.verio.com>
     To: <rhoads@adi.com>


There is lots of modeling in industry.  Not too many years ago, it cost
over
$50,000 per seat of 3D CAD for software and hardware.  Now it can be
done
for $8,000.  The new systems run on Windows NT and Intel Pentium II and
Pentium III.  This makes it available to a whole new class of company. 
It
is truly a revolution.  Common low cost software is Solid Edge and Solid
Works.  Pro Engineer has dropped prices and is trying to compete in that
arena.  The really big buck systems, like Catia are useful to large
global
corporations are  still expensive.
Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>


> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 22:10:21 -0400
> From: H Villemure <memvive@globetrotter.qc.ca>
> Subject: Re: Simulation/Modeling Tools
> 
> How much $$$?
> Do you own a copy yourself?
> 
> FHPREMACH@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 4/14/99 8:47:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > memvive@globetrotter.qc.ca writes:
> >
> > << David Rhoads wrote:
> >  >
> >  > Help ...
> >  >
> >  > I'm looking for some additional information to wrap up a term paper that
> >  > I'm writing.  What I need is info/comments on various
> >  > modeling/simluation languages/tools
> >
> >  The Pro/Eng (Pro/Engineer) package is indeed the most complete one I
> >  have seen with mechanical, heat transfer and motion simulations.
> >
> >  Hope this helps,
> >  --
> >  Helene V. >>
> >
> > I beg to differ. ProE is a cumbersome package. If you want to use what the
> > big boys use, look to SDRC IDEAS and Fluent Rampant for design and
> > Computational Fluid Dynamics respectively. This is what people like Ford,
> > Ilmor and others of that caliber use. The company (an international
> > aerodynamics research and consulting firm) where I was in charge of design of
> > gaging and database development spent a great deal of time evaluating
> > packages. We talked to a number of companies who had IDEAS and ProE
> > experience and they were fairly unanimous in their recommendation for design
> > and analysis. Fluent is the world leader in CFD for virtually every kind of
> > fluids flow analysis as well as thermal and combustion analysis. IDEAS was
> > recommended by them as a tool for preprocessing the data for their analysis
> > suite.
> > Talk to these people. You will find that they are both companies with strong
> > educational ties.
> > Fred
> 
> - --
> Helene V.
> ___________________
> welcome to mk2@onelist.com
> visit us at http://come.to/helene-and-matti
> 
> ------------------------------

-- 
. David Rhoads II  
. Applied Dynamics International
. 3800 Stone School Road, Ann Arbor, Mi 48108
. (734) 973-1300                                                
. rhoads@adi.com   website:  www.adi.com

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 16 09:39:41 1999
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From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: seek knowledge
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 09:39:19 -0400
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Mike,
Some PCM's (P6 and P4) have the operating program in the MEM-CAL... Others
(C3) have the software in embedded ROM either on the CPU chip itself, or ROM
chips built into the computer.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Pilkenton <mpilkent@ptw.com>
To: DIY-EFI <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 15, 1999 11:13 PM
Subject: seek knowledge


>Well this is probably a basic question for you experts but I have to start
>somewhere.  I understand that the various MEMCALs contain the efi tables,
>fuel, spark curves, etc. in the form of hex codes programmed into the
>EEPROM.  However there must be am operating system or basic program that
>runs on the computer and controls the logic.  For example:
>
>step 1:  go get engine data
>step 2:  pump fuel and spark
>step 3:  repeat
>
>Although this is extremely oversimplified, my question is: does this basic
>program also reside in the MEMCAL or is it resident somewhere else on the
>ECM computer?  I would also like for someone to email me a sample program
>perhaps converted to some common programming language so as to illustrate
>the typical logic involved with runnung an efi system.  I'm not ready to
>play with fuel and spark maps but just want to gain more systems level
>knowledge.
>
>Mike Pilkenton
>
>


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I would be intersted in a copy of this.  I have access to a machine
shop(a friend of mine) so I could really use this.

-- 
Stephen Cranford cranford@texas.net
92 RS Sapphire Blue w/Purple Pearl & White Stripes
86 IROC-Z28 Red w/black hood and NO interior..new toy!
89 GMC 4WD 1/2 ton Suburban
http://austin.f-body.org/
http://cranford.home.texas.net
Eugene Jones wrote:
> 
> I asked for an adapter for a tbi to a carb intake and Bruce Plecan
> responded and others.
> 
> I would like to find the gm part number to the "heater" adapter for 87-89
> bigblock trucks, if anyone has it.
> no, I could not find it in the efi archives.
> 
>  I have designed a 3/4" aluminum plate that will bolt efi (350 or 454 type)
> to both a holley 4150/4160 intake or a holley spread-bore(quadrojet)
> manifolds. if you need a copy of this drawing (in microsoft word format)
> just let me know. I am having it quoted for machining by a couple of local
> machine shop (Greenville, S.C.) will post price later.
> 
> thanks,
> Gene Jones

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 16 10:40:46 1999
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Thanks
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 16 11:21:29 1999
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From: "Eugene Jones" <jtvette@ww-interlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Test needed.
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 11:25:45 -0400
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What test do you need run?

----------
> From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Test needed.
> Date: Friday, April 16, 1999 7:37 AM
> 
> If anyone has a bench run distributor and a 2 channel O'scope, and
> would be willing to run a simple test, please send E-mail off list.  I
> need to see if my memory is any good.
> Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 16 11:36:14 1999
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Date: Tue, 24 Apr 1990 22:38:05 -0400
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> I noticed in a reply about whippled hummers that Frederic Breitwieser
> has a 413 with twin turbos.  I am interested in the possibility of
> running twin turbos with the current Magnum 5.2L engine.

Actually, its a 383B mopar block that's been stroked to 431 cid, via a
turned down 440 crank and 440 YJ rods, and custom wiseco pistons for a
9.2:1 c/r.  the engine will go in the truck this weekend if the rain
lets up.  Anyway, I used moly rings for minimal wear under the
additional pressure (10lbs max - its a tow vehicle not a race vehicle).
This is one of the key things to remember to do.  Also, the intake
manifold is fairly intersting.  Following an article in one of the Mopar
ragazines I milled eight holes in the intake runners of an aluminum
Edelbrock "Streetmaster 383" intake, made injector bungs on a friend's
lathe, then TIG welded them into the holes.  Using a die grinder, I
ground out the "hang down" thats in the intake runner, so the only thing
exposed inside the runner would be about 1/16" of the injector tip.
 Took a bit of experimenting to get it right.  Then, I sealed off the
runners that clamp to the heads, sealed off each injector bung, and
pressurized the carb seat surface to find leaks.  Lots of leaks <grin>
Cleaned that all up, then too the modified intake to a machine shop
where they could "deck" the tops of the injector bungs to be the same
height.  They still haven't done this as of yet, and keep blowing me
off, but that's another story.  They will also make the fuel rails since
I made two sets that were absolutely terrible.

Anyway, with this intake configuration, I can slap a carb on the intake
until I figure out all the EFI stuff.  I waffled between EEC-IV Ford
stuff (have a low-performance ECM and harness from a 88 Crown Vic) as
well as the 93 GM TPI setup found on Camaros and Firebirds.  Turned out
my GM ECM is bad, so I'm seeking a 730 ECM and Andy Quaas and I will be
sharing notes since we are working on engines with about the same
displacement.  The choice to go GM was more due to the GM steering
column I have sitting here with cruise, tilt, etc, as well as a caddy
body harness, with all motors, switches, digital dash, and all that
happy stuff to embed into the truck.  See, a junkyard caddy harness was
$150, whereas a "replica" harness for the 75 Dodge truck will be 3 times
that, and have power nothing.  Unused connectors can always hang.

Anyway, with the above information, you can see where I'm going.  Now,
onto the turbos.  I have two smaller turbos because my top RPMs on this
engine would be in the 4000 range (I originally was going for 5000 RPM,
but no point in a tow vehicle), therefore I don't need vast, oversized
turbos since the "top end" is very low.  I have two turbos from Dodge
Daytonas, and will try them and see if they provide enough air for my
10lb goal.  If not, I can "step up" as necessary.  I prefer OEM parts
for easy, convienent replacement and junkyard availability.  Anyway, the
iron intake manifolds that came with the 383 have had the exhaust bolt
holes for the Y-pipe welded close (brazed actually), then redrilled and
threaded so the daytona turbos will "bolt right on".  Cracked two left
manifolds trying to tap the new holes.  Anyway, turbos are mounted.  The
remainder of the exhaust system post-turbo hasn't been fabricated as of
yet, and that will be the last thing to do.  Quite honestly, since
emmisions testing are no longer required for my 75 truck in Connecticut,
I might just run straight pipes down the frame and have them stick out
post wheel, without mufflers.  4000 RPM is not going to be *that* loud,
with two turbos absorbing a fair amount of noise.  Time will tell.

Connecting the turbo fresh-air outlets to the intake required a little
creativity.  I have an edelbrock carb opening on the top of the
streetmaster intake, thus a plenum had to be constructed out of sheet
aluminum.  The turbos are at the back of the engine, therefore two Ford
throttle bodies have been bolted to the back side of the intake,
immediately next to each other, one for each turbo.  They have been
"ganged" and the throttle cable will connect in between the two throttle
bodies.  More than likely, I will replace them with GM units so the
GM ECM gets the throttle position sensor it wants.  Have two FWD
3.8L Throttles that will fit with minimal drilling into the plenum I've
made.  On the back side of the plenum, there is aan ATR adjustable
sneeze valve, which will be set for 10psi so that additional pressure
over that setting will blast out into the open area.  I think its ATR.
It was a leftover from my twin-turbo Buick V6 project.  Anyway, inside
the plenum is a 2" thick transmission or oil cooler, that I sized the
inside dimensions of my plenum around, as once welded, I wanted an
air-tight fit.  All pressurized air from the turbos will blast into the
upper plenum, go through the intercooler, then into the lower plenum,
then through the carb bore, then into the runners following the OEM path
of a carb-based intake.  The injectors I selected are 56lb units,
however the more I play with the math, I am thinking they are gross
overkill.  Something in the 42-48lb range would probably be more
suitable.

What the intercooler will be attached to hasn't been decided yet.  I did
some preliminary experiments on a Buick V6 engine using radiator coolant
as the "intercooling fluid", and while I didn't document this even
remotely well, I will state that this actually works.  Kudo's to Bruce
"Grumpy" Plecan who drilled the idea into my head.  The idea is to tap
the radiator fluid pre-engine post-radiator since the coolant is about
100-110 degrees at this point, and the fresh air post-turbo is closer to
200 degrees.  While not the absolute best design, Bruce was right in
saying that the intercooler temperature would be more consistant,
therefore providing consistant performance, and is MUCH easier to plumb
than a Peterson coolant tank, a box of ice, a 12V marine sump pump, or
any other creative solution you come up with.

> 85 Shelby Intercooled Turbo Charger,2.2L,5-spd man.

One of the things you *should* do, and I've done this many, many times,
is to sit and stare at turbocharged cars.   You can learn a lot about
the mechanicals (mounting, brackets, etc) from the OEMs, so sit in front
of your car that I snipped out your tagline, and see what they've done.
 Wander the junkyards for other turbo'd cars, and see what different
companies do.  Also, here are two weblinks of others who have achieved
what you desire.  Dodge, Chevy, Ford, the concepts are pretty much the
same.

http://www.eecs.tufts.edu/~askulte/ttt/logbook.html
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/8668/tthowto.htm

Corky Bell has a book called "Maximum Boost", and if you can get through
his interesting sarcasm <grin>, you'll find it a great resource.  There
are some minor inaccuracies in there, and a lot of this is all
subjective, none-the-less its a good resource.  I'd also recommend you
go with a fuel injection system, either OEM parts or something like
Haltach or Electromotive or DFI etc.  The reason being (and this is just
my opinion) that lean conditions under boost will kill your engine
faster than running it without oil, therefore the more precise control
that EFI can give you, if configured correctly, will help your engine's
survivability.  And without boost, you can get acceptable mileage too.

If you are looking for low-end boost, another option is to skip the
turbochargers, and go with a Paxton or Vortech supercharger.  They are
much easier to install (an afternoon), and give the 5.2 engine a lot of
kick for the effort you will put into it.  Of course, they are in the
2600-3200 US dollar range, complete, from Summit Racing for example.
Many ways to skin this cat ya know :)

One last comment I will make before I bore everyone to tears... is that
you are right on the border of the single/twin turbo line.  Corky Bell's
rule of thumb is 350 cid.  Anything 350cid and larger, requires two
turbos, whereas below that line, requires one turbo.  Nothing wrong with
two undersized turbos on a 318, or one larger turbo.  In general,
smaller turbos will spool up faster due to the lighter rotational weight
of the blower pieces that spin to 80,000 RPM, and the orifaces entering
the turbo of course would be a smaller diameter, therefore higher
velocity of exhaust flow going in.  Well, you get the idea.  On my Buick
V6 block, which is a mere 252 cid (plus .030 overbore), one turbo seemed
just dandy.  However, converting to two turbos, we saw improved
performance by using two Daytona turbos (same ones I will be testing on
the truck motor actually), and it worked fine.  Then, as we built the
motor up enough to withstand the the punishment, we used two TE43's (I
think), which are very large turbos.  However, at lower RPMs turbos of
this size were completely useless, and it wasn't until the 6500 RPM
range that things started to really hum.  Unfortunately, the V6, with
all the girdles, valve train support, and other fabricated
"strengthening" things we added... the crank still kicked out at 8000
RPM after only 30 minutes.  But 849 HP at 38lbs of boost was a lot of
fun, using the same intake/intercooler design that I described above,
and will be installing into the truck.

Hope that helped somehow :)




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From: Andrew <huntera@cadvision.com>
Subject: Phone No#s
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Does anyone have the number for either Omega Engineering or Brooks
MicroOval that offer flowmeters.  I am building a fuel injector flowbench
and want to use this item.

Thanks,

Andrew
Calgary, Alberta, Canada

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 16 11:42:04 1999
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From: Eric Aos <EOA@spartek.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: sequential gearboxes
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 08:35:07 -0700
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>     Well I guess I will have to put my foot in my mouth on 
> this one :-) I
> have been shifting a 4 speed without "lifting" for over 25 
> years. 

Amen to that one. My first car was a '69 GTO with a 455 and a crashbox
Muncie. Used to go through 2 sets of synchros a year :)

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 16 11:55:22 1999
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Subject: Re: Test needed.
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 11:55:48 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Friday, April 16, 1999 7:37 AM
Subject: Test needed.

I just wish I could be around to see how ya wire yourself up to make memory
tests, with a two channel scope.  Even if your doing simple tests.
Grumpy

> If anyone has a bench run distributor and a 2 channel O'scope, and
> would be willing to run a simple test, please send E-mail off list.  I
> need to see if my memory is any good.
> Shannen
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 16 12:00:45 1999
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Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 11:59:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Phone No#s, Omega
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The number for Omega is 800-TC-OMEGA.

There web site is www.omega.com

Hope this help!

See ya,

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 16 12:41:16 1999
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Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 09:33:03 -0700
Subject: [OT] Parametric Modeling/turbo
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With this talk of parametric solid modeling, I feel I'm qualified to jump in (I
have over 5000+ hours on ProE). First off, ProE is a really powerful program.
One of the most powerful ones on the planet. There are limitless "modules" that
can be used (cable, piping, molds, CNC machine, jig & fixtures, etc.) with ProE.
That being said, it's a difficult program for the average person to lean. The
learning curve is steep. The hardware demands are high (I recommend 350Mhz,
128Mb RAM as the bare minimum!). A few years back, the PC hardware wasn't able
to even run the software...we had to use SGI workstations and run it on UNIX.
Now, anybody with WinNT, 450Mhz+, and 256Mb+ RAM won't have any problems (as
long as the assemblies are under 200 parts!). Cost? BUHAHAHA! Well, it used to
run about $20k for the basic vanilla version ProE...and another $30k for the
tutorial (Coach Pro) software. SGI workstation was $10k. Yikes! Now
days...Parametric Technology (company that makes ProE) has become very
aggressive in their marketing. They offer a light version of ProE called PT
Modeler (about $3500-$6500), that runs on Win95/98 or NT. This was in response
to the upstart program called SolidWorks. SolidWorks is so much easier to learn
than ProE, as it uses a lot of basic Windows commands that most people are
already familiar with. Cost? About $3500. Power? Pretty good...it can do about
80% of what the basic ProE can do...but it does have a few short comings in the
"sketch tools" commands. It does offer a lot of powerful things for the price! I
recommend using NT as the operating system, and 256Mb RAM...with a 300Mhz+ CPU.

SDRC IDEAS is really nice. KATIA is another one. HP Solid Designer is one. Most
industries have a certain program they use, that's really tailroed to thier
design process and their product.

So how does this stuff help the hot rod people? Well, I use SolidWorks to design
a lot of parts for my car. I use it to do a layout of components, to check for
fit (or interference). For instance, I use it to design turbo piping. Once a
basic model of the engine, and engine bay is in place...I'm free to route my 3D
virtual pipes in tight places. That helps me drastically reduce the material
cost when ordering material for R & D. I know how much material (and what bends)
to get from Burns Stainless, before I even touch a pipe or a cut-off wheel. I
use it to design brackets, molded plastic parts (custom A-pillar pod?), or to
figure out how much these parts will weigh (plug in the material density, and it
tells you). Pretty neat, eh? Of course, I use AutoCad to actually do the
detailed 2D drawings that go to the machinist (all parametric modeling programs
have a lack luster "drawing mode"). You can design anything you want, if you can
imagine it...and are good enough to know how to use the tool (the modeling
program).

In closing, I'd like to say that all drafting/modeling programs are merely
tools. That's all. You MUST have the knowledge to design something first and
foremost. You must have a good materials and manufacturing process knowledge
before creating and testing new parts in a software program. You must know how
those parts are going to be made, and what's the most cost effective approach
(based on the end-user's needs, the part itself, the design intent, lead time,
and a lot of other factors). You must have a really good reference database!
It's impossible to remember everything, or know everything...but if you know
WHERE to find the data, that doesn't matter! Just because you know how to swing
a hammer, doesn't mean you know how to build a house!

Every single man made object you see, or touch...had to be drawn first, by
somebody. Think about that.

Jason
'93 SLC




From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 16 12:43:05 1999
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Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 11:39:51 -0500
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For GMs:  C3 type ECMs (80's, early 90's) had some code in a prom on the
board, and had some more code plus all the data in a socketed PROM.  P4
ECMs have all code and data in a socketed thing that includes an EPROM
plus passive components that determine limp home mode, knock sensor
parameters, etc.

This is in general, there is at least one P4 that uses a plain socketed
EPROM without all the other components.

You have to be careful with the terms calpak, mempak, memcal because
they refer to specific parts on different ECMs.

As far as EFI software, Al Lipper has one written for the 8051.  There
is another one written in C for the efi332 project, search around on
diy_efi for Al Lippers and on efi332 for the other one.  These are
written from scratch, not OEM programs.

Mike Pilkenton wrote:
> 
> Well this is probably a basic question for you experts but I have to start
> somewhere.  I understand that the various MEMCALs contain the efi tables,
> fuel, spark curves, etc. in the form of hex codes programmed into the
> EEPROM.  However there must be am operating system or basic program that
> runs on the computer and controls the logic.  For example:
> 
> step 1:  go get engine data
> step 2:  pump fuel and spark
> step 3:  repeat
> 
> Although this is extremely oversimplified, my question is: does this basic
> program also reside in the MEMCAL or is it resident somewhere else on the
> ECM computer?  I would also like for someone to email me a sample program
> perhaps converted to some common programming language so as to illustrate
> the typical logic involved with runnung an efi system.  I'm not ready to
> play with fuel and spark maps but just want to gain more systems level
> knowledge.
> 
> Mike Pilkenton

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 16 13:22:59 1999
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Subject: Re: Phone No#s
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I'd check www.omega.com for contact info.


On Fri, 16 Apr 1999, Andrew wrote:

> 
> Does anyone have the number for either Omega Engineering or Brooks
> MicroOval that offer flowmeters.  I am building a fuel injector flowbench
> and want to use this item.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Andrew
> Calgary, Alberta, Canada
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 16 13:48:09 1999
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It just so happens that I made up a detailed ecu file for the 7747 
computer for use with promedit.  I would send it to incoming if I 
knew how, maybe some one could help.  The file even goes into 
setting BLM's and EGR on temp to name a few.



> Hi all, I've been getting requests for .ecu file for Promedit.
> Has any one built up any of these files for various ECU.
> If you could post any info files you'd like to share to the 
> "incoming" area I can point people at it.  
> Or is there a collection of these some where ?
> There is a newer version of promedit on the ftp site.
> IF! I get the time I'll enhance the program so it can work with the 
> TUNA style info file also. 
> 
> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< bye >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> wayne
> [Brisbane Australia]



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From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: sequential gearboxes
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On Fri, 16 Apr 1999, Eric Aos wrote:

> Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 08:35:07 -0700
> From: Eric Aos <EOA@spartek.com>
> To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
     <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Subject: Re: sequential gearboxes
> 
> >     Well I guess I will have to put my foot in my mouth on 
> > this one :-) I
> > have been shifting a 4 speed without "lifting" for over 25 
> > years. 
> 
> Amen to that one. My first car was a '69 GTO with a 455 and a crashbox
> Muncie. Used to go through 2 sets of synchros a year :)

I thought that a crash box has gears wiht NO syncros (like my 61 rover)
 1+2 no syncros and noisy as hell
 3+4 smallist syncros

Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 16 15:17:56 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <3.0.5.16.19990416084407.0e27e92c@bserv.com> <26350D8C.3317EC0F@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Twin Turbos (Massive snippage safe to read)
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 15:18:18 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: Frederic <frederic@xephic.dynip.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 1990 10:38 PM
Subject: Re: Twin Turbos


> Turned out
> my GM ECM is bad, so I'm seeking a 730 ECM and Andy Quaas and I will be
> sharing notes since we are working on engines with about the same
> displacement.

I'd recommend ya look for a 749 instead.  Running a 2 bar program would be
MUCH better than a 1 bar.

Would allow for much better boost control.

Sneeze valve for a Truck, might be disaster...  (Doc+Grumpy already taking
bets).

> On the back side of the plenum, there is aan ATR adjustable
> sneeze valve, which will be set for 10psi so that additional pressure
> over that setting will blast out into the open area.  I think its ATR.

Usually/Often a sneeze valve is for a high rpm+high load limit (often
trimming, rather than absolute control).  If I understand you right your
wanting a low rpm monster.  It might take a ton of work to limit/modulate a
sneeze valve for this.  Using the Wastegate signal off of the syty 749 would
be one option.  But, Intake tract boost control often winds up a bang/bang
affair.  Meaning anything wrong, and it flucctuates greatly.  Just getting
it right on a 400 CID is gonna be work, and since EGT reflects work done,
heavy payloads might drive ya around the bend...
Might think of using a EGR as a spill valve,  would be to be electric not
vac operated (ie newer Digitial type)

> Corky Bell's
> rule of thumb is 350 cid.  Anything 350cid and larger, requires two
> turbos, whereas below that line, requires one turbo.

One think about sweeping statements is that they are usually wrong.
Bruce



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 16 15:26:02 1999
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Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 13:25:37 -0600
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
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>I'd check www.omega.com for contact info.
>
>
>On Fri, 16 Apr 1999, Andrew wrote:
>
>>
>> Does anyone have the number for either Omega Engineering or Brooks
>> MicroOval that offer flowmeters.  I am building a fuel injector flowbench
>> and want to use this item.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Andrew
>> Calgary, Alberta, Canada

Omega, Canada= (514) 856-6928 (Laval, Que.)

Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Apr 16 15:57:53 1999
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Date: Wed, 25 Apr 1990 03:01:23 -0400
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Subject: Re: Twin Turbos (Massive snippage safe to read)
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> I'd recommend ya look for a 749 instead.  Running a 2 bar program would be
> MUCH better than a 1 bar.

I just haven't found one in the local junkyard.  Been looking big time!  Now,
this particular ECM drives eight injectors, or does it drive a TBI setup
only?  I thought the latter, however I've been wrong before.

> Sneeze valve for a Truck, might be disaster...  (Doc+Grumpy already taking
> bets).

Actually, I'm anticipating this - and all of the statements you made about
pulsating in the intake plenum due to the sneeze valve opening and closing
repeatedly will more than likely be true.  My other option is to use a
wastegate setup, however I just don't have one at the moment.  Ideally, I'd
like to use VATS turbos, however they are not to be found in junkyards <smile>.

> wanting a low rpm monster.  It might take a ton of work to limit/modulate a
> sneeze valve for this.  Using the Wastegate signal off of the syty 749 would

Yes, exactly.  I adapted my thinking to low RPM only, hence the 4k cutoff
point.

> Might think of using a EGR as a spill valve,  would be to be electric not
> vac operated (ie newer Digitial type)

This is a good idea actually... I had not planned to have any emmissions or
recirculation anything... vented the old way, since the hood will never be
opened at the emissions station.

> One think about sweeping statements is that they are usually wrong.

LOL, good point :)

Frederic


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