From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 02:22:24 1999
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Subject: Re: Need Fuel Injector Data
References: <008e01be9293$8529a7a0$8b9dfea9@gbclark.com> <004f01be92ab$4bdead20$4e198fd1@nacelp> <372A5640.D2D9A214@grolen.com> <372A67B8.9AA47370@arm.com>
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There needs to be something to offset the forgotten birthdays,
meetings, bill payments, appointments, etc.
Thanks.
Shannen
Steve Ravet wrote:
> 
> "swagaero".  Why do I remember stuff like that?
> 
> --steve
> 
> Shannen Durphey wrote:
> >
> > There was a website which mentioned using Saturn parts for aircraft
> > EFI conversions.  Can't quite remember the name, but I will post it
> > when I do.  If you can't wait, the person who owned the site was a
> > member of this list at one time.  His posts should be in the archives.
> > Shannen
> >
> > Bruce Plecan wrote:
> > >
> > > Couple things come to mind.
> > > GM 1987 Sunbird 2.0L 4 cylinder Turbo might be close, they are P+H.
> > > www.lindertech.com    that's off the top of my head but they are in gasoline
> > > Alley
> > > Indianapolis, IN.   Then RC Eng in SoCal..
> > > How much info do you have about that ecms prom calibrations?.
> > > If your point man is gone, you might need to reevaluate your posistion.
> > > Bruce
> > >
> > > > A friend of mine and I are working on an unusual project.  We are adapting
> > > a
> > > > '93 Saturn ECM and two DIS modules to run a Continental O-200 aircraft
> > > > engine.  The engine is 200 C.I. (3.3 L) 4 cylinder dual plug and should
> > > make
> > > > about 120 HP at about 2800 RPM.
> > > >
> > > > Can anyone supply us with the information or give us an idea of where we
> > > can
> > > > find a chart with the injector data?
> 
> --
> Steve Ravet
> sravet@arm.com
> Advanced Risc Machines, INC
> www.arm.com


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 06:10:21 1999
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Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs
References: <01be9442$db3b46c0$6d930ccf@owlymcn.net.mcn.net>
		<3729D85C.2F474632@vt.edu> <19990430.231958.4054.5.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
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Raymond C Drouillard wrote:

> I don't argue with the above.  What I am saying is that if you run it at
> max VE without throttling it, you will generate MUCH more power than you
> need.  If you throttle it, you will not have a good VE.  Throttling works
> by lowering VE.

I agree.  But do you have to throttle?

> Agreed.  There is no throttling with a properly used CVT.  You reduce
> power by LOWERING THE RPM of the entine to the point where it is
> producing the desired power.
>
> The engine is constantly at WOT, and the power output is controlled by
> controling the engine speed.

Um I don't agree with this, with a perfect cvt the change in applied power
would be due to gearing changes.

> I am comparing a throttled engine at the speed of max VE with an
> unthrottled engine that has been slowed down enough to reduce the power
> to the desired level.  Based on that, my statement is correct.

Your absolutely correct.  Our disagreement seems to be in the function of the
cvt itself.

> IF YOU RUN AN ENGINE AT MAXIMUM VE WITHOUT THROTTLING IT, YOU WILL GET MORE
> POWER THAN YOU NEED, AND NOTHING YOU CAN DO WITH THE TRANSMISSION (besides
> wasting the power through friction) WILL REDUCE THE POWER LEVEL.

> If you are cruising at a speed that requires 25 HP to maintain, and your
> engine is capable of putting out 200 HP, you have to either throttle it
> or run it at a speed where it only generates 25 HP.  You CAN NOT run it
> at its peak VE point or its peak power point and only generate 25 HP
> unless you throttle it.

> There, I said the same thing in several different ways.  Hopefully, the
> concepts won't be misunderstood.  Please read it carefully before writing
> a rebuttal.

    I have read it carefully and try to do so with all the messages I reply
to.  I enjoy learning the theory involved here.   Which is what I am trying
to do, learn.  There are few perfect students and I, unfortunately, do
misunderstand concepts.  If you feel it is a chore to respond to my comments,
you don't have too as much as I do enjoy the conversation.
    When we are in first gear of a typical car today, we have a high
(numerically) gear ratio which increases the effective torque at the driving
wheels to get the car going, right?  Why isnt the reverse true?  With a
perfect cvt, there is not limitation on the gearing so we can reduce the
engine torque through very low (numerically) gearing, is there a reason this
is not feasible with a perfect cvt?  By these means we could also control the
load on the engine...

James Ballenger


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 06:15:08 1999
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"David A. Cooley" wrote:

> Most injectors will go to 80 maybe 100 PSI differential tops across them
> before they will either stick fully open or stick fully closed.

    How does the increased pressure affect control of the pulsewidth, if at all?

James Ballenger


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 06:20:08 1999
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Howard Wilkinson wrote:

>     The reason for the stepped transmission is to increase gear range
> beyond what the belt drive can provide.... you'd probably have to use
> an axle ratio of 1x (not available as far as I know) to get high
> enough gearing to load an engine down under virtually any conditions

    Could a second belt system be employed in connection with the first to
offer a wider range of ratios?  I guess it could be 1:1 and inactive until
engaged by rpm/vacuum and then be able to increase or decrease the ratio
as neccessary.

James Ballenger



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Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 06:50:15 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "Peter D. Hipson" <mail@darkstar.mv.com>
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Your typical (cheap, non-ohv) 4-stroke lawnmower engine is a flat head--the
head has nothing but holes for plugs, no valves. The valves are mounted in
the block instead. 

At 02:24 PM 4/30/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Robert,
>
>I am more of an ignoramus than most on this list- just a fresh
>mechanical engineering graduate. Could you detail what a *flathead*
>motor design consists of?
>
>Thanks!

Thanks, 
        Peter Hipson (founder, NEHOG)
        1995 White NA Hummer Wagon

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 07:32:50 1999
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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 07:32:06 EDT
Subject: Re: cam grinds for SC
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In a message dated 4/29/99 7:13:04 AM Pacific Daylight Time, jsg@donet.com 
writes:

<< Subj:	 cam grinds for SC
 Date:	4/29/99 7:13:04 AM Pacific Daylight Time
 From:	jsg@donet.com
 Sender:	owner-diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
 Reply-to:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 
 
 I'm about to install a Vortech supercharger on my SBC 305 TPI, and
 I'm thinking about changing cams too. The vortech FAQ has 
 this to say about cams:
 
 4) What is the correct cam to run with my
    supercharger?
 
        Cam selections are best discussed with the various
        cam manufacturers. Many people select cams which
        are not the correct choice for centrifugal
        superchargers. When discussing the cam with a
        manufacturer make sure they understand a Turbo cam
        or a cam for a Roots style supercharger is different
        than a centrifugal cam. Generally speaking the
        supercharger and the cam do the same thing (increase
        volumetric efficiency), be cautious of choosing a cam
        that has large amounts of lift and duration. Ideally for
        a street application retaining decent idle, emissions
        and drivability are important, for this reason we
        suggest a "moderate" camshaft. Given the choice
        between two cams we suggest the milder of the two for
        street applications.
 
 Of course that is of little help, and I would like some idea of what's
 going on before contacting manufactures. So, what does make for a good
 cam for applications like this? How do these cams differ from turbo or
 roots specific cams?
 
 john
 
  >>
Hi John,
	Man, where do I start........this thread could be extremely long but 
I'll try to keep it to the point.....Turbo cams diff from supercharged cams 
for two major reasons.....backpressure between the exhaust valve and turbo 
and spool up times,and truely a bunch more incidental ones....but that's a 
whole different discussion......
  	As for the supercharged stuff here goes......There is probably a very 
good cam for your app available off the shelf or if not can be custom ground 
at a reasonable cost,,,but I will need more info from you to recommend 
one......As for some experience on the subject I would like to share with the 
group this regarding lobe separation and overlap cycles.......overlap cycles 
affect octane requirements and fuel efficiency...... example....540 bbc 7.5:1 
compression 100 octane fuel 775 hp 5500 rpm 11 lbs boost.  engine would not 
detonate on the dyno with 92 octane but if loaded for long periods of 
time(boat) would begin detonating within 7-8 minutes unless we used 100 
octane....cam was 222-226  @.050 on 116LC......Customer wants to run 92 
octane,  when decreased timing far enough to eliminate detonation    EGT's 
would go too high for extended use....advise of decrease in fuel mileage and 
install cam 246-254 @.050 on 116LC.  engine makes the same 775hp at 5500 but 
now is only 8lbs of boost.   Intake air temps within 10 degrees of each other 
but requires almost 20% more fuel(using Horiba airfuel meter and allowing an 
offset for the overlap to scew the sensor readings)  Egt's are now 1375-1400 
and stable on 92 octane for unlimited periods of time........The overlap 
cycle helps cool the surface temp of the combustion chamber and piston and 
exhaust valve...but results in a waste of charge out the exhaust.......same 
customer later wants 1000 hp, turn boost up to 11 lbs  and engine makes 980hp 
at 5600 but jumped from 11lbs boost at 5600 to 14lbs  of boost at 5800.....VE 
of engine fell off at 5600 and supercharger did not.....Install new cam with 
exact same overlap cycle but intake valve closing event 20 degrees 
later.....engine makes exact same power to 5600 but makes 1184 hp at 6100 rpm 
at same 11lbs of boost......This told me my heads were flowing as much air as 
the supercharger could push(pressure had equalized in the cylinder in 
comparison to the manifold) until there wasn't enough time(RPM vs valve 
event) to continue to fill.....again required 100 octane fuel to make the 
higher horsepower but was very stable and hey how long does it take to change 
pulleys to run 92octane?????   As far as cams go in reference to centrifugal 
vs. roots....with a roots type the only thing holding the air back is the 
throttle blade,,,but with a centrifugal it is also rpm dependant and the 
wrong camshaft will produce less torque at low speeds than you probably had 
stock.......and in reference to the cylinder head stuff, if I had poorer 
heads on this app I would have gained hp by adding intake closing event 
time....another way to help a poor environment such as a stock engine......I 
have ended up with as high as 121LC cams on some supercharged street engines 
just to fill the cylinder more without giving up the effiency.....but you  
might think about an EGT guage if your gonna tow.........I know I have just 
touched the surface of this conversation but will attempt to answer any 
questions I can.....I don't know everything there is to know about every app 
regarding supercharger cams but am more than willing to help with the 
experiences I have had.
	John, I would like to know any mods done to your engine,,,,static 
compression ratio,,,,rpm band and how much hp you're trying to achieve.....is 
it going to be a flat tappet hydraulic or hydraulic roller?????
 	Anyway, I hope that helps and I'll try to respond as quickly as 
possible,,,,,just doesn't seem to be enough hours in the day....it's 4:30 am 
here and gotta be up soon to tune some stuff at the track....ttyl
-Carl Summers

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Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 06:29:50 -0400
From: James Ballenger <jballeng@vt.edu>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs
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Howard Wilkinson wrote:

> James:
>     BMEP is an acronym for Brake Mean Effective Pressure...... It may
> be considered to mean the pressure developed in the cylinder by the
> combusion process.  At low throttle settings BMEP is low, at WOT in
> the max torque range BMEP is max....... Actual BMEP values vary
> between engines as a result of compression ratio, boosting, camming,
> etc.  The max torque developed by an engine per cubic inch
> displacement is a direct relation to max BMEP.  Thus at high RPM BMEP
> values are lower than at low RPM due to lower induction efficiency,
> although the power output BHP is greater.  In general engines live
> longer operating at lower BMEP.....    H.W.

    Thanks for the explanation Howard.  It would make sense since most of
the timing is in by the time todays engines reach peak torque so that at
this point an engine would be doing the most negative torque btdc.  A lot
more bearing wear would probably result.  It seems if we were building
engines for performance at that one point, we could minimize it though.
Also high rpm failures and varying loads due to changing engine speed
would no longer be a factor.

    James Ballenger


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 09:07:33 1999
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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 07:07:55 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Transplant
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>Nah - some insane whacko is building a unique engine from various scrap parts
>and ancient hot rod ideas. When it get's finished, it will be vaguely fordish
>and definitely unusual and maybe not too expensive.

Nice flame, Bob!!

Greg
>
>
>Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 14:24:55 -0400
>From: H Villemure <memvive@globetrotter.qc.ca>
>Subject: Re: Flame - Not
>
>Robert,
>
>deleted stuff
>
>And about your Mach 1- what transplant? The Cobra 427? Talk about torque
>monster...
>
>
>1963 Ford C-600 Prison Bus Conversion "Home"
>1971 Lincoln Continental 460 "Christine"
>1972 "Whale" Mustang awaiting transplant
>1978 Dodge Long Bed Peeek Up "Bundymobile"
>
>Habaneros - not just for breakfast anymore



From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 09:07:35 1999
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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 07:07:57 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Flame - Not
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>Flatheads....... Well don't let's forget Briggs & Stratton, Tecumsa,
>Kohler........           H.W.
>

Or Indians! (The engines, not the tribe!)

Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 09:10:40 1999
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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 07:11:02 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs
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>Aaron:
>    Unfortunately I have yet to see a water injection system that I
>like.....

Stay tuned.

 also up here there are not enough months when water
>injection is practical.

Stay tuned.

(Do not adjust your set!)

Greg

 H.W.



From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 09:28:56 1999
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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 07:29:17 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs
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>You also commented about noise in the FE engine with .035 lash..... it
>wasn't any louder than most solid lifter engines, and was in a 2 ton
>cab over truck so lifter noise wasn't noticed...... supprisingly some
>of the Ford factory specs for lifter adjustment on some of the stock
>FE engines with solid lifters which were high performance engines in
>the early & mid 60's were at or very close to this gap.  You will find
>this on some of the 390, 406, and 427 engines I believe..... Three
>duces, solid lifter cam, and 400+ hp.  Those were real engines!!
>H.W.
>
The 421 Poncho and the 413 Max Wedge III each had it all over the 390/406 FE's!

Whether your expert ear heard it or not, the take up ramps on solid lifter
cams vs. hydraulic lifter cams are entirely different! The initial ramp on
a hydraulic cam is quite quick, so as to set the check valve in the lifter
closed. The initial ramp on a solid lifter cam is much gentler, so as to
take up the lash with minimal impact on various valve train parts.

If you run a solid cam with hydraulic lifters, the timing and lift will be
inconsistent--generally less duration and lift at higher engine speeds,
which is about the opposite of what you want.

If you run a hydraulic cam with solid lifters, you subject your entire
valve train to a lot of unnecessary impact--Which is OK I guess, if you
have no respect for your engine, an infinite supply of money, or do not rev
the engine to the potential of the cam you are running.

But--I am sure that you knew that, and just hadn't told us yet!

BTW--please start snipping the messages you reply to--not only does it take
a lot of bandwidth when you do not do this, it takes forever do do it for
you when replying!

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 10:10:56 1999
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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 08:11:16 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Subject: Re: atomization enhancement
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>"David A. Cooley" wrote:
>
>> Most injectors will go to 80 maybe 100 PSI differential tops across them
>> before they will either stick fully open or stick fully closed.
>
>    How does the increased pressure affect control of the pulsewidth, if
>at all?
>
>James Ballenger

Flow through an injector per unit time will vary directly with the square
root of the pressure across it. "Pressure across it" means the arithmetic
difference between the gauge pressure in the fuel rail and the gauge
pressure in the manifold at any given condition.

At very short pulse widths, the higher pressure will affect the opening and
closing characteristics of the injector enough that things will not be
quite this simple.

Kinsler FI has done a bunch of work with running injectors at high pressures.

Regards, Greg



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Subject: Re: atomization enhancement
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James:
	Although we haven't done extensive testing yet, we have benched some 
injectors at varying pressures and pulse widths. As we suspected before 
setting up the bench, the generally accepted formulas are not very accurate. 
An increase in pulse from 2 ms to 4 ms does not exactly double flow. Nor does 
flow vary directly with the square root of the pressure. The dynamics of 
opening and closing are affected differently by pressure for different 
injector types and sizes, and obviously flow is affected by the percentage of 
the pulse a particular injector takes to open and close. Math is good for 
ballpark estimates, and injector selection, but bench testing and then dyno 
testing are unfortunately necessary for final tuning. 
										
					Charlie Iliff

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 10:35:41 1999
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From: "Howard Wilkinson" <owly@mcn.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 07:25:03 -0700
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James:
    There's got to be a million ways of accomplishing this...... The
regular transmission with steps is more efficient than the belt drive.
The idea here is that the belt drive provides the continuous stepless
effect and the transmission provides ranges..... perhaps it isn't
necessary, but I am assuming that at very light loads extreme high
gearing will be required to load the engine enough to hold it down to
the desired speed at WOT.   This may not be necessary if you are
willing to use a hybrid system which uses a conventional throttle when
you get beyond your target operating range.  That is to say if you
optimise for typical highway driving so that you can gear enough to
hold the engine down, probably on downgrades you'll have to resort to
conventional throttling anyway.  My thinking is that if you provide a
high enough gear ratio to accomplish the objective of nearly always
being able to throttle with the transmission, it will at times be
necessary to gear down further than your belt drive transmission
allows for power, just as gravity may overcome your ability to
throttle with load at the other end.   H.W.

-----Original Message-----
From: James Ballenger <jballeng@vt.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Saturday, May 01, 1999 5:22 AM
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs


>
>
>Howard Wilkinson wrote:
>
>>     The reason for the stepped transmission is to increase gear
range
>> beyond what the belt drive can provide.... you'd probably have to
use
>> an axle ratio of 1x (not available as far as I know) to get high
>> enough gearing to load an engine down under virtually any
conditions
>
>    Could a second belt system be employed in connection with the
first to
>offer a wider range of ratios?  I guess it could be 1:1 and inactive
until
>engaged by rpm/vacuum and then be able to increase or decrease the
ratio
>as neccessary.
>
>James Ballenger
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 10:35:44 1999
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From: "Howard Wilkinson" <owly@mcn.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Transplant
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 07:27:20 -0700
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Jim:
    Please explain the term "floating rod bearings"......... I've
never heard it before...... The only "floating rod bearings" I've
experienced are those which spin between the bearing and the
rod.......... Definitely a bad deal.... forshadows doom!
H.W.

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Saturday, May 01, 1999 12:24 AM
Subject: Re: Transplant


>
>
>On Sat, 1 May 1999, Robert Harris wrote:
>
>> Nah - some insane whacko is building a unique engine from various
scrap parts
>> and ancient hot rod ideas. When it get's finished, it will be
vaguely fordish
>> and definitely unusual and maybe not too expensive.
>>
>Floating rod bearings too?
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 11:08:07 1999
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From: "Howard Wilkinson" <owly@mcn.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 08:15:11 -0700
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Greg:

Snip.......

As regards your comments about cam ramp angles...... I was aware of
that issue and don't regard it as relevant at the extreme lash
involved......  50K+ trouble free miles on this engine in a single
axle semi tractor (391 engine) bear that out.  Life expectancy of a
gas engine in this application isn't much over about 80K no matter
what engine you use, and it is still running strong and has been
trouble free.             H.W.



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Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 11:03:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: cam grinds for SC
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-> To my mind, roots type or centrifugal type superchargers would both
-> benefit from small overlap cams.  This is because these are the only
-> engines that have greater intake pressure than exhaust pressure.  Too
-> much overlap just blows intake out the exhaust.

 Scavenging.
                                 

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 12:08:11 1999
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Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 11:03:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Direct Injection
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-> valve opens.  On SEFI when does the fuel inject?

 It doesn't really matter.  The intake port has plenty of turbulence.

 Most port injection systems are batched; for the few that are truly
"sequential", the injector timing can be played with at idle for
smoothness or emissions, but at quarter-power you'll be injecting
through the whole intake stroke anyway; at full throttle the injector
will be on most of the 720 degree cycle.
        

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 12:10:39 1999
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From: bob@bobthecomputerguy.com (Robert Harris)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Direct Injection - Stratified
Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 16:10:03 GMT
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Try some out of box thinking.  The propaganda is that Stratified Charge is to
facilitate burning an overall lean mixture thereby increasing milage.

The actual working is that a normal to richish mixture is first ignited and
this burning charge is then used to ignite a much more reluctant main charge.

Using a fuel scavenged pre-chamber ( one where the fuel is shot thru the pre
chamber into the main chamber and the ignition takes place in the pre-chamber)
, think about using two fuels.  The first - thru the prechamber, is an easy to
ignite, relatively fast burning fuel that will generate a nice flame jet and
readily ignite the main chamber.

The next, a slower burning, much harder to ignite main fuel that is admitted
to the cylinder in a more normal fashion.  What now happens is that the Flame
Jet lights off the slower burning main charge rather quickly and fast normal
combustion now occurs.

The pre-chamber fuel is something like say gasoline.  The main chamber is say
Methane ( Natural Gas ) for the economy minded.  No problem - just a little
complication.  

But suppose that the main mixture was very rich and it was something very hard
to ignite - such as a blend on alcohol and nitro-methane?   The prime power
limiting factor for such blends is how fast and how much can you get the fuel
lit off.  Even with super energy twin plug systems, much of the fuel does not
burn in the cylinder but finishes combustion in the exhaust pipes.  The Flame
Jet ( directly stolen - its still a stratified charge - just the fuel and
mixture considerations have changed ) could probably be used for a significant
increase in power.  

And nothing stops the pre chamber fuel from being something different like
gasoline from the main chamber and further, nothing stops you from using
mutually incompatible fuels in both chambers, since the only contact with each
other will be in combustion.   Contemplate gasoline with a heavy hydrazine
shot for the pre-chamber and mutually incompatible Nitro-Methane in the main.
Massive power effects from both - with no time for the slow incompatibility
products to form.

This is where learning how and why and not blanketly parroting the latest hype
pays off.  Its the out of box thinking that violates nothing but would never
be thought of that wins races and succeeds well whenever tried.  

Think about it.

1963 Ford C-600 Prison Bus Conversion "Home"
1971 Lincoln Continental 460 "Christine"
1972 "Whale" Mustang awaiting transplant
1978 Dodge Long Bed Peeek Up "Bundymobile"

Habaneros - not just for breakfast anymore

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 12:15:14 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ross Corrigan <zxv@istar.ca>
Subject: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid?
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I know this is NC but I"ve exhausted my related Nissan/Datsun list w/ no
good info.

A few of us have sb chevy V8's and several have experienced heater core
problems d/2 higher/greater coolant flows/pressure (I don't know
specifically), they've replaced w/ brand new units and halfway thru winding
out and leaving another NSX (their ride, mine wouldn't do that;^) their
heater core will fail again.

They only discussed ways to just bypass the heater core which is simple but
I live in the often rainy pacific nw so need heat occassionally throughout
the year and would prefer some sort of pressure reducer mini-manifold but
I"m not familiar w/ what hardwar is out their or the simplest way to solve
this.  I'm not sure if it's simply a matter of too much flow or pressure or
combo of both that fails them.  Mine's still OK but I haven't ran it very
hard yet and want to preempt a painful heater core R&R etc.

thanks for any and all ideas in advance

Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada 

 '80 327ZX   IZCC#255, Edmonton Z-car Club #44, British Columbia ZCR        
Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the
straights

mailto:zxv@istar.ca     *New ICQ # 11549358
http://home.iSTAR.ca/~zxv/index.shtml
http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg    where a
Z belongs

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 12:22:04 1999
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From: Ross Corrigan <zxv@istar.ca>
Subject: torque convertor choice?
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probably NC as well but I do plan on installing my holley TB 4Di system
shortly so it's related to my EFI setup..

My car is in the tranny shop this week and it's a rare time it's out 
of the car (700R4)so thought I'd run by my present converter and see if you 
recc'd a different one. Refresher... 3100lb loaded car w/ 206/212 @.050 
Xtreme cam, 9.5:1, performer RPM heads, and stock bottom end 327 w/ good
flows, ~300flywheelhp anyhow.
they dynoed my tranny today and said my convertor is a 1550rpm, my car is a 
daily year round driver that gets lots of city driving and some hard track days
roadracing/and autocross in the summer. Tranny guy seemed to think a 
21-2200 stall would be much better suited. 

Oh yeah, I may bump the cam up a level in the future  (possible a roller)
but certainly not milder.  

comments ideers? gains/losses to a 2000+ stall? much mpg loss??, read about
the S10 '95+ convertor being  a bolt in 2000stall for the 700, my torque
would probably bump that to 2200?  Should it stand up in my application?  I
heard they fragged in some Impalas but they're a lot heavier.  THe S10 95+
has same internals as the vette's 700R4 convertor if that helps.

thanks in advance !



Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada 

 '80 327ZX   IZCC#255, Edmonton Z-car Club #44, British Columbia ZCR        
Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the
straights

mailto:zxv@istar.ca     *New ICQ # 11549358
http://home.iSTAR.ca/~zxv/index.shtml
http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg    where a
Z belongs

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 12:34:49 1999
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Subject: Re: atomization enhancement
Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 12:35:19 -0400
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 >Caterpillar has carried this to extremes and
> >has some diesel engines running ungodly high pressures....I don't know
> >the exact figures.

On our International it's 2,800-3,200 PSI.  But, this is diesel.

> >    I propose changing out the injectors on my vehicle with injectors
> >rated for lower flow, and raising the pressure to compensate.
> >Pressure would be adjusted in "open loop" mode using an exhaust
> >analyzer.  It has been said that most injectors are rated at pressures
> >far above what they are operated at.
> >    I'm sure this is far from an original idea, and that some of you
> >have done it..... How much difference does it make, and what about
> >pump load at the higher pressures..... how much increase in pressure
> >is required.
> >    I'd like to hear about peoples experiences and mishaps doing this
>
> Most injectors will go to 80 maybe 100 PSI differential tops across them
> before they will either stick fully open or stick fully closed.

Some of the disc type completely lock closed at as low as 90, the pintle
"seem" OK to 110, or so.  Again this are reported numbers, but the 90 and
disc was from a reputable source.
Grumpy

> ===========================================================
>            David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
>      Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
>    Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they
didn't?!
> ===========================================================
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 12:50:05 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: atomization enhancement
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At 06:17 AM 5/1/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>    How does the increased pressure affect control of the pulsewidth, if at 
>all?

The pressure on the Pintle or disc (depending on type) will cause the
injector to take longer to open once current is applied.  It will get to a
point where the magnetic force from it's coil cannot overcome the force the
fuel is putting on the pintle/disc and it sticks closed, or if the design
has the fuel pressure in such a way it aids the opening and closing of the
injector, it will reach a point where the return spring cannot close the
injector against the fuel pressure, sticking open.
===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
   Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
===========================================================

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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 13:36:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs
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On Sat, 01 May 1999 06:21:53 -0400 James Ballenger <jballeng@vt.edu>
writes:
>
>
>Howard Wilkinson wrote:
>
>>     The reason for the stepped transmission is to increase gear range
>> beyond what the belt drive can provide.... you'd probably have to use
>> an axle ratio of 1x (not available as far as I know) to get high
>> enough gearing to load an engine down under virtually any conditions
>
>    Could a second belt system be employed in connection with the first
to
>offer a wider range of ratios?  I guess it could be 1:1 and inactive
until
>engaged by rpm/vacuum and then be able to increase or decrease the ratio
>as neccessary.
>
>James Ballenger

Gears are more efficient than belts.

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<snip>

>> Agreed.  There is no throttling with a properly used CVT.  You reduce
>> power by LOWERING THE RPM of the entine to the point where it is
>> producing the desired power.
>>
>> The engine is constantly at WOT, and the power output is controlled by
>> controling the engine speed.
>
>Um I don't agree with this, with a perfect cvt the change in applied
power
>would be due to gearing changes.

CHANGING THE GEARING CHANGES THE ENGINE SPEED!  THAT IS THE WHOLE POINT!

>
>> I am comparing a throttled engine at the speed of max VE with an
>> unthrottled engine that has been slowed down enough to reduce the
power
>> to the desired level.  Based on that, my statement is correct.
>
>Your absolutely correct.  Our disagreement seems to be in the function
of the
>cvt itself.

A CVT doesn't change the power (besides the ordinary efficiency losses). 
If you attempt to reduce the torque to the drive wheels by changing the
gear ratio, you will either slow down the engine or speed up the vehicle.

An unthrottled engine running at a specific speed (max torque, for
example) is going to put out a specific amount of power.  If this is more
power than is required to maintain the desired cruise speed, the vehicle
will speed up.

If you want to prevent this without throttling - that is, if you want to
maintain the same cruise speed without throttling, you will need to
change the gear ratio.  Assuming that you don't speed up, the engine will
HAVE to slow down.

<more snip>

Ray Drouillard

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On Fri, 30 Apr 1999 22:21:36 -0400 (EDT) William T Wilson
<fluffy@snurgle.org> writes:
>On Fri, 30 Apr 1999, H Villemure wrote:
>
>> I am more of an ignoramus than most on this list- just a fresh
>> mechanical engineering graduate. Could you detail what a *flathead*
>> motor design consists of?
>
>Yeah.. the heads are flat.  ;)  Nothing in them but the plugs.
>
>During the early part of the century up through the 50's, Ford made
>flathead V8s which were extremely good engines and used in a wide
variety
>of their cars and a number of early street rods.  Not only Ford used
>flathead engines though; I've got one in a '55 Jeep, which is an inline
>6-cylinder.

I believe that they were used with the inline 4 cylinder Jeep engines,
also.

>
>There are some nice advantages to the flathead, not the least of which
is
>simplicity.  There are no timing belts, chains, or any of that muck;
it's
>all gear driven.  It is somewhat hard to get at the cams, though. 
Valves
>are in the block right by the manifolds, so even a valve job is easy. 
It
>is a very simple design.  However, the performance is lacking compared
to
>OHV or OHC type engines.
>

No worry about the valve colliding with the piston.

I imagine that if one wanted to make one today, ceramic coating could be
used to combat the disadvantage of heat loss through the odd-shaped
combustion chamber.  Also, the more modern notion of a "pinch zone"
wouldn't be too hard to impliment, and could actually take up the whole
area of the piston.

Ray


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From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 13:29:16 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <4.1.19990501091036.03912b60@istar.ca>
Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid?
Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 13:29:47 -0400
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What I do is, epoxy the 5/8" heater hose fitting on the manifold shut, and
then cure it at 200dF.  Then drill a 5/16" hole in it.  That is enough for
heat and defrost, here in Ohio.   If you want really good control over the
heater coolant, use a heater valve off a 87 Buick GN/Ttype, it's vacuum
applied, On, type.
  If when ya do the cam, on the passenger side of the water pump is a hole
in the water pump/block.  Tap that out and put a 1/8 pipe plug in, it.  Then
drill a 1/16 or 1/8" hole in it.  Also, a 1/8" hole in the thermostat.
    The above is just what works for me.
Bruce


> I know this is NC but I"ve exhausted my related Nissan/Datsun list w/ no
> good info.
> A few of us have sb chevy V8's and several have experienced heater core
> problems d/2 higher/greater coolant flows/pressure (I don't know
> specifically), they've replaced w/ brand new units and halfway thru
winding
> out and leaving another NSX (their ride, mine wouldn't do that;^) their
> heater core will fail again.
> They only discussed ways to just bypass the heater core which is simple
but
> I live in the often rainy pacific nw so need heat occassionally throughout
> the year and would prefer some sort of pressure reducer mini-manifold but
> I"m not familiar w/ what hardwar is out their or the simplest way to solve
> this.  I'm not sure if it's simply a matter of too much flow or pressure
or
> combo of both that fails them.  Mine's still OK but I haven't ran it very
> hard yet and want to preempt a painful heater core R&R etc.
> Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada



From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 13:43:16 1999
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Greetings,

After spending most of the morning wandering around two local junkyards,
I lucked out and found two of the elusive 7749 ECMs, one passed my
"power up" test, the second one didn't, and the yard I got them from
said they'd exchange the bad one when they get a wrecked turbo sunbird
in later today (which means middle of next week to everyone else).  Also
picked up a 2-bar MAP sensor using GM part numbers as a reference, for
$15.  It was sitting on a shelf believe it or not, so that piece is
done.  Coincidentally, the body harness I snagged to give my old beater
truck power everything (windows, locks, cruise, digital dash) plugs
right into two of the three underhood ECM harnesses with ease, and I
have to verify the wiring to ensure I don't have any ground and batt
leads interconnecting.  At least the connectors fit... moving wires
around has become quite easy after all the practice I'm getting!

Sorry for the cross post... so many people have given me help and advice
I wanted to make sure you all know I appreciate it !!!!

Oh, and I pressure tested my homemade fuel rails this morning and they
leak right through the aluminum tubing.  I found that odd.  I know
aluminum is somewhat porous compared to other metals, but 100psi of air
pressure on the end of the fuel rail, submerging it into a litter box
full of water resulted in small bubbles forming on the surface of the
aluminum.  When the pressure is released, the bubbles appear to receed
back into the aluminum.  Very odd.  Just thought you'd all get a kick
out of it.

---

Frederic Breitwieser

Xephic Technology
"Leadership in IT"
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Web: http://www.xephic.dynip.com
Voice: (203) 372-2707
Fax: (603) 372-1147



From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 13:49:55 1999
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Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 10:49:12 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ross Corrigan <zxv@istar.ca>
Subject: Cam regrinds feasible?  (roller regrind)
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well here's the last of my q's that have gone unresolved off other
resources....

Local super comp dragster racing team has been selling of some unused new
stuff in the local penny ads.  They have one custom Bruce Crower ground
roller cam, 650 lift, 300 duration w/ 105 centre left brand new that's too
conservative for their efforts of late for $100CD.  They sold a 2nd one
same specs to a 'vette owner who had it reground to 575 lift, 112 lobe centres.

I'll check out the regrind price from the local grind guru's "Shadbolt"
(any horror stories on them?  I've only heard good so far), but at their
price I should be able to get a reground roller for 30% or so below new and
to my own custom specs, assuming their's room in this monster for a 214/218
at 114 or 115 or similar (or v. open to reccomendations....).  I know I'd
need the Bronze distr. gear for $40CD or so as well.

Just checking this out.  For their cost I might just pick it up and decide
later as I don't think  resale 'netwise would be hard to break even. 

thanks again 

Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada 

 '80 327ZX   IZCC#255, Edmonton Z-car Club #44, British Columbia ZCR        
Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the
straights

mailto:zxv@istar.ca     *New ICQ # 11549358
http://home.iSTAR.ca/~zxv/index.shtml
http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg    where a
Z belongs

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 13:50:45 1999
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Subject: Re: atomization enhancement
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> >    How does the increased pressure affect control of the pulsewidth, if
> >at all?
> >James Ballenger
> Flow through an injector per unit time will vary directly with the square
> root of the pressure across it. "Pressure across it" means the arithmetic
> difference between the gauge pressure in the fuel rail and the gauge
> pressure in the manifold at any given condition.
> At very short pulse widths, the higher pressure will affect the opening
and
> closing characteristics of the injector enough that things will not be
> quite this simple.

Speaking specifically of "on" times of less than 2 msec. most all injectors
get "erratic", in their flow rates.   Pintle are the least, disc being
worst.   This was done at just 3 bar test pressures, so I'd imagine at
higher PSI they would be even worse.
   Some time ago Greg H rattled on about rising rate regulators, and turn
down ratios, or some such stuff over my head, but after seeing the pix off
Mike Pitts set up using one of Carl S's riasing rate regulators, looks like
the road to go, IMHO..
   I'm still really curious about seeing some details about how an injector
acts with a min "off" time.  This 2 msec might apply at both ends of the
scale.  So just running a step from, 2 msec to 100% duty cycle might be the
answer.  Or just hoping for the best and program thru the jump, and let the
injector do as it will..
Happy
>
> Kinsler FI has done a bunch of work with running injectors at high
pressures.
> Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 14:45:48 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid?
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The JTR S-10 book shows 2 Everco 5/8" heater hose fittings, one with a
built-in restriction (3/8").  Part #H2894.  They also list a similar GM
part, #10039163, used on some 4cyl S-10s, to restrict flow.

I am pretty sure there is an in-line restrictor used on some Corvettes,
but I can't find in in JTR book.

> > I know this is NC but I"ve exhausted my related Nissan/Datsun list w/ no
> > good info.
> > A few of us have sb chevy V8's and several have experienced heater core
> > problems d/2 higher/greater coolant flows/pressure (I don't know
> > specifically), they've replaced w/ brand new units and halfway thru
> winding
> > out and leaving another NSX (their ride, mine wouldn't do that;^) their
> > heater core will fail again.
> > They only discussed ways to just bypass the heater core which is simple
> but
> > I live in the often rainy pacific nw so need heat occassionally throughout
> > the year and would prefer some sort of pressure reducer mini-manifold but
> > I"m not familiar w/ what hardwar is out their or the simplest way to solve
> > this.  I'm not sure if it's simply a matter of too much flow or pressure
> or
> > combo of both that fails them.  Mine's still OK but I haven't ran it very
> > hard yet and want to preempt a painful heater core R&R etc.
> > Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada

-- 
Steve Ravet
ARM, INC
steve.ravet@arm.com
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 15:23:13 1999
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Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 12:27:28 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: Cam regrinds feasible?  (roller regrind)
In-Reply-To: <4.1.19990501104729.039697f0@istar.ca>
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You can do some regrinding to rollers, I did, but it was almost not worth
it. The problem that I was told is that if you do too much you need to have
it re-heatreated, and then it typically gets out of wack in terms of
straightness or  so he said. They can take some off and change the profile
a bit, but you need to check with a grinder that can do it to see how much
and actually what it will cost. In the long run, more problems then it's
worth, just get the grind you want and save the exercise.

Sandy

At 10:49 AM 5/1/99 -0700, you wrote:
>well here's the last of my q's that have gone unresolved off other
>resources....
>
>Local super comp dragster racing team has been selling of some unused new
>stuff in the local penny ads.  They have one custom Bruce Crower ground
>roller cam, 650 lift, 300 duration w/ 105 centre left brand new that's too
>conservative for their efforts of late for $100CD.  They sold a 2nd one
>same specs to a 'vette owner who had it reground to 575 lift, 112 lobe
centres.
>
>I'll check out the regrind price from the local grind guru's "Shadbolt"
>(any horror stories on them?  I've only heard good so far), but at their
>price I should be able to get a reground roller for 30% or so below new and
>to my own custom specs, assuming their's room in this monster for a 214/218
>at 114 or 115 or similar (or v. open to reccomendations....).  I know I'd
>need the Bronze distr. gear for $40CD or so as well.
>
>Just checking this out.  For their cost I might just pick it up and decide
>later as I don't think  resale 'netwise would be hard to break even. 
>
>thanks again 
>
>Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada 
>
> '80 327ZX   IZCC#255, Edmonton Z-car Club #44, British Columbia ZCR        
>Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the
>straights
>
>mailto:zxv@istar.ca     *New ICQ # 11549358
>http://home.iSTAR.ca/~zxv/index.shtml
>http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg    where a
>Z belongs


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 16:33:42 1999
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Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 13:21:00 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ross Corrigan <zxv@istar.ca>
Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid?
In-Reply-To: <372AF5C5.242113D5@arm.com>
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 <00e201be93f8$363b9700$1f633acf@nacelp>
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At 01:38 PM 5/1/99 +0100, you wrote:
>The JTR S-10 book shows 2 Everco 5/8" heater hose fittings, one with a
>built-in restriction (3/8").  Part #H2894.  They also list a similar GM
>part, #10039163, used on some 4cyl S-10s, to restrict flow.
>
>I am pretty sure there is an in-line restrictor used on some Corvettes,
>but I can't find in in JTR book.

Thanks for the info so far guys!  I have two JTR books (TPI/TBI & ZV8's)
but can't afford to buy every one for fun reading.  So the above fitting is
a pipe thread 'union' w/ an inline restrictor orifice?  I suppose I could
make one from a piece of aluminum roundstock or any other ideer I suppose.
I was curious if the orifice could lead to excessive backpressure behind
the restriction?  (didn't take a lot of fluid mechanics)  ie. should this
be setup be like bypassing your heater core but instead of blocking off the
heater core circuit completely leaving it open but only w/ a 3/8" supply or
similar?  Make a small aluminum manifold (like an adjustable fuel pressure
regulator) but instead of a regulator just a 3/8's orifice to supply the
heater core?? 

thanks again

Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada 

 '80 327ZX   IZCC#255, Edmonton Z-car Club #44, British Columbia ZCR        
Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the
straights

mailto:zxv@istar.ca     *New ICQ # 11549358
http://home.iSTAR.ca/~zxv/index.shtml
http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg    where a
Z belongs

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Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 13:29:26 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ross Corrigan <zxv@istar.ca>
Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid?
In-Reply-To: <00e201be93f8$363b9700$1f633acf@nacelp>
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At 01:29 PM 5/1/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>What I do is, epoxy the 5/8" heater hose fitting on the manifold shut, and
>then cure it at 200dF.  Then drill a 5/16" hole in it.  That is enough for
>heat and defrost, here in Ohio. 

so you restricted your supply to your heater to 5/16's internally w/ no
other visible mods...I like that:-)  what kind of epoxy specifically do you
use?

  If you want really good control over the
>heater coolant, use a heater valve off a 87 Buick GN/Ttype, it's vacuum
>applied, On, type.

don't follow this too well, this is an inline valve in the heater supply
line?  vacuum applied but what triggers the application of the vaccuum? an
electric switch?  or do you mean at high vaccuum (low rpm's/throttle) it's
open and it closes under WOT? off of manifold vaccuum?  That would be slick
as well.

>  If when ya do the cam, on the passenger side of the water pump is a hole
>in the water pump/block.  Tap that out and put a 1/8 pipe plug in, it.  Then
>drill a 1/16 or 1/8" hole in it.  Also, a 1/8" hole in the thermostat.

missed this one, better review my coolant circuit schematics in my Haynes
manual, I have hole's in my thermostat , Robert Shaw hiflo unit to
accomodate my stewart water pump setup. Or do you mean bleed off a line
from the thermo/water neck  housing of 1/8" supply for the heater and
return it into the water pump?

>    The above is just what works for me.
>Bruce

Loving these ideas guys!  Can't wait to get my car back from the tranny
guru to start on one of them.

Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada 

 '80 327ZX   IZCC#255, Edmonton Z-car Club #44, British Columbia ZCR        
Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the
straights

mailto:zxv@istar.ca     *New ICQ # 11549358
http://home.iSTAR.ca/~zxv/index.shtml
http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg    where a
Z belongs

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 16:40:57 1999
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Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 13:38:19 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ross Corrigan <zxv@istar.ca>
Subject: Re: Cam regrinds feasible?  (roller regrind)
In-Reply-To: <4.1.19990501122425.00ad3170@mail.wgn.net>
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At 12:27 PM 5/1/99 -0700, you wrote:
>You can do some regrinding to rollers, I did, but it was almost not worth
>it. The problem that I was told is that if you do too much you need to have
>it re-heatreated, and then it typically gets out of wack in terms of
>straightness or  so he said. They can take some off and change the profile
>a bit, but you need to check with a grinder that can do it to see how much
>and actually what it will cost. In the long run, more problems then it's
>worth, just get the grind you want and save the exercise.
>
>Sandy

That's one q I'd been wondering on, can they successfully retreat the 'new'
outer core to a suitable hardness while maintaining a more ductile inner
core.  I guess I'm always trying to figure out a way to get my foot in the
door and gradually create the more expensive product w/ less money;^)
having a hard time phoning them as they're 'only' a 5 day 9-5 company...hmm
that's what we are and I like it;^)


Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada 

 '80 327ZX   IZCC#255, Edmonton Z-car Club #44, British Columbia ZCR        
Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the
straights

mailto:zxv@istar.ca     *New ICQ # 11549358
http://home.iSTAR.ca/~zxv/index.shtml
http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg    where a
Z belongs

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 16:59:35 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <4.1.19990501091036.03912b60@istar.ca> <4.1.19990501132107.0396bdd0@istar.ca>
Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid?
Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 17:00:04 -0400
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> >What I do is, epoxy the 5/8" heater hose fitting on the manifold shut,
and
> >then cure it at 200dF.  Then drill a 5/16" hole in it.  That is enough
for
> >heat and defrost, here in Ohio.
> so you restricted your supply to your heater to 5/16's internally w/ no
> other visible mods...I like that:-)  what kind of epoxy specifically do
you
> use?

JB Weld, or about anything gray <g>.

>   If you want really good control over the
> >heater coolant, use a heater valve off a 87 Buick GN/Ttype, it's vacuum
> >applied, On, type.
> don't follow this too well, this is an inline valve in the heater supply
> line?  vacuum applied but what triggers the application of the vaccuum? an
> electric switch?  or do you mean at high vaccuum (low rpm's/throttle) it's
> open and it closes under WOT? off of manifold vaccuum?  That would be
slick
> as well.

Lots of cars use vacuum motors for defroster, heat etc, just T into that if
that's what you have to operate the heater valve.

> >  If when ya do the cam, on the passenger side of the water pump is a
hole
> >in the water pump/block.  Tap that out and put a 1/8 pipe plug in, it.
Then
> >drill a 1/16 or 1/8" hole in it.  Also, a 1/8" hole in the thermostat.
> missed this one, better review my coolant circuit schematics in my Haynes
> manual, I have hole's in my thermostat , Robert Shaw hiflo unit to
> accomodate my stewart water pump setup. Or do you mean bleed off a line
> from the thermo/water neck  housing of 1/8" supply for the heater and
> return it into the water pump?

There is a hole in the block/passenger side behind the water pump (that is
about 3/8", that is a water bypass), just tap and plug it, then drill a hole
in it to reduce it's size.  Period.
>
> >    The above is just what works for me.
> >Bruce
>
> Loving these ideas guys!  Can't wait to get my car back from the tranny
> guru to start on one of them.
>
> Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada



From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 17:29:42 1999
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Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 14:29:28 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Aaron Willis <darkmonahue@awwwsome.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs
In-Reply-To: <v01510102b350ad98fde6@[204.132.128.2]>
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At 07:11 AM 5/1/99 -0600, you wrote:
>>Aaron:
>>    Unfortunately I have yet to see a water injection system that I
>>like.....
>
>Stay tuned.
>
> also up here there are not enough months when water
>>injection is practical.
>
>Stay tuned.
>
>(Do not adjust your set!)
>
>Greg
>
> H.W.
>
>
>
	The gears in my head turn slowly due the heavy medication they have me on :-)
but I have to imagine that if it's too cold for water injection, certainly
you must be breathing in cold air as well, which, coupled to an effective
air-to-air intercooler, should help stave off detonation.
	What am I not understanding here?


	Aaron Willis
	ICQ #27386985
	AOL IM: hemiyota
	http://surf.to/garage-te51 Garage TE51 International

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 18:06:03 1999
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Subject: Re: MC6840 timer specs.
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 15:05:59 -0700 (PDT)
In-Reply-To: <372856E6.2BB7@sr.hp.com> from "Mike Brown" at Apr 29, 99 05:56:06 am
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> Daniel R. Henriksson wrote:
> > 
> > Hi
> > I need the specs. on the MC6840 timer IC, i've searched around on the net with no luck, there must be some datasheet pdf's out there...
> > 
> > (Weber Marelli WD48.08 uses one of those 6840's...)
> > BR
> > Daniel Henriksson

> Daniel,
> 	I searched arround also for a data sheet on this part also with out
> much luck.  It is a pretty old part.  Finally found a older Hitachi data
> book and got one from there.  I also ordered a set from.... can't

For those in the Seattle area, Active Electronics in Bellevue have
a Hitachi data book with the HD6840 and variations in it.
(You can actually buy a 68x40 there at the moment - can't remember
what the x was, B probably!)

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 18:06:44 1999
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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 15:06:14 -0700 (PDT)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid?
In-Reply-To: <4.1.19990501132107.0396bdd0@istar.ca>
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I don't know if it's the same one as used on the gn, but take a look at gm
part #14044414.  It has four ports.  Normally, without vacuum applied, is
allows coolant to flow through the heater core.  With vacuum applied, it
bypasses the core and routes the coolant back to the engine.  It's usually
actuated when the a/c is in the max position.  The valve does not seal
perfectly, and some coolant does go to the core in closed position.

However, I think you could loosen the screw that holds the lever arm onto
the rotating part of the valve and just rotate the valve piece 90 degress
such that it is "open" (coolant goes through core) under vacuum and
"closed" without vacuum. I don't think there was any keying between the
lever are and the valve piece that would prevent this (take a look before
you buy).  Connecting it to manifold vacuum may then make it do what you
want.  Make sure the valve is installed such that is routes coolant back
to the motor when "closed" and doesn't simply cut off the coolant flow. 

Of course, the restrictors would be cheaper.

Tom

On Sat, 1 May 1999, Ross Corrigan wrote:

> At 01:29 PM 5/1/99 -0400, you wrote:
>   If you want really good control over the
> >heater coolant, use a heater valve off a 87 Buick GN/Ttype, it's vacuum
> >applied, On, type.
> 
> don't follow this too well, this is an inline valve in the heater supply
> line?  vacuum applied but what triggers the application of the vaccuum? an
> electric switch?  or do you mean at high vaccuum (low rpm's/throttle) it's
> open and it closes under WOT? off of manifold vaccuum?  That would be slick
> as well.
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 18:40:56 1999
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs
Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 00:39:10 +0200
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> If you change the ratio of the transmission enough to get the RPMs down
> in the 1000 and under range, you can lower the power output drastically. 
> The main caveat is to design the cam profile so that the engine will run
> efficiently at that speed.  You don't need variable displacement or
> variable compression ratio to do this.  Variable valve timing will do the
> trick - and the technology is already fairly commonplace.

Offcourse.......you are right , I have wanted to try a 4 stroke with reed
valves
in the intake and run a camshaft thats good for top end......
Espen


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 19:34:48 1999
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Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid?
References: <4.1.19990501091036.03912b60@istar.ca>
	 <00e201be93f8$363b9700$1f633acf@nacelp> <4.1.19990501131530.038476d0@istar.ca>
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Ross Corrigan wrote:
> 
> At 01:38 PM 5/1/99 +0100, you wrote:
> >The JTR S-10 book shows 2 Everco 5/8" heater hose fittings, one with a
> >built-in restriction (3/8").  Part #H2894.  They also list a similar GM
> >part, #10039163, used on some 4cyl S-10s, to restrict flow.
> >
> >I am pretty sure there is an in-line restrictor used on some Corvettes,
> >but I can't find in in JTR book.
> 
> Thanks for the info so far guys!  I have two JTR books (TPI/TBI & ZV8's)
> but can't afford to buy every one for fun reading.  So the above fitting is
> a pipe thread 'union' w/ an inline restrictor orifice?  

The Everco parts are fittings that screw into your water pump where the
heater hose attaches.  It's NPT on one end, 5/8" hose barb on the
other.  Take out the one you have and attach this one.  GM part should
be similar.  The corvette part, if you can find it, goes inline in the
hose.  Cut the hose, stick it in, put 2 hose clamps on.  The S-10 book
is a fun read.

--steve


-- 
Steve Ravet
ARM, INC
steve.ravet@arm.com
www.arm.com

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From: charlesmorris@erols.com (Charles)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: John Deere
Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 00:42:56 GMT
Message-ID: <372c9f00.527186@smtp.erols.com>
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On Sat, 1 May 1999 02:22:31 -0400, you wrote:

> PUT na na na PUT na na PUT PUT PUT na na na na...

>Sounds like a John Deere 2cyl tractor.  Massive flywheel and long
>stroke crank made for similar sounds at idle.
>Shannen

Actually, all my 2-cyl John Deere's go:

PUT PUT na na PUT PUT na na PUT PUT na na.

Fires at 0 and 180 degrees, then coasts for 540 degrees
(hence the massive flywheel).

-Charles
JD 50
JD 420
;)


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 20:53:18 1999
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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 20:52:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@snurgle.org>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Flame - Not
In-Reply-To: <19990501.135441.13870.0.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
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On Sat, 1 May 1999, Raymond C Drouillard wrote:

> >of their cars and a number of early street rods.  Not only Ford used
> >flathead engines though; I've got one in a '55 Jeep, which is an inline
> >6-cylinder.
> 
> I believe that they were used with the inline 4 cylinder Jeep engines,
> also.

Some of the old 4-cylinder Jeeps were flatheads, some were OHV.  As far as
I know all modern Jeep engines are OHV or OHC.


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 21:03:54 1999
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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 18:03:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Cam regrinds feasible?  (roller regrind)
In-Reply-To: <4.1.19990501104729.039697f0@istar.ca>
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On Sat, 1 May 1999, Ross Corrigan wrote:

> I'll check out the regrind price from the local grind guru's "Shadbolt"
> (any horror stories on them?  I've only heard good so far), but at their

Havent dealt with them for a while, but they have been around for years
and, when I did deal with them they were top notch. 




From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 21:32:34 1999
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From: "Howard Wilkinson" <owly@mcn.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Espen's Reed Valves
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 18:35:28 -0700
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Espen:
    That's one I've never heard..... or even considered...... what a
thought.... Has someone been doing that.....Wow the possibilities are
fantastic..... With such a setup you could use a centrifugal advanced
cam to get variable duration and the reed valves would take care of
the blowback problem at the low end......    At least a first thought
it seems like a brilliant solution.... wish I'd thought of that
one..... I'm going to have to think on that a bit more.  It takes care
of the intake at least.             H.W.

>
>Offcourse.......you are right , I have wanted to try a 4 stroke with
reed
>valves
>in the intake and run a camshaft thats good for top end......
>Espen
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 22:06:18 1999
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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 20:06:40 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs
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>Greg:
>
>Snip.......
>
>As regards your comments about cam ramp angles...... I was aware of
>that issue and don't regard it as relevant at the extreme lash
>involved......  50K+ trouble free miles on this engine in a single
>axle semi tractor (391 engine) bear that out.  Life expectancy of a
>gas engine in this application isn't much over about 80K no matter
>what engine you use, and it is still running strong and has been
>trouble free.             H.W.

Then I guess I must be nuts to be building a gas engine for duty in a 27500
GCVW vehicle which is designed make 925 ft lbs from 1600 thru 4000 rpm,
continuous duty, anywhere from sea level up to 11K MSL , on ULR fuel, and
have a 10000 hour (500K mile) design life! (And have a cruising bsfc below
.35 #/bhphr.!)

I am sure that the dude with forty years of professional engineering and
mechanical experience should listen very carefully to the guy who didn't
know that flattys used floating bearings, and rather reliably,  on engine
design issues!

Howard--I think you might have some potential! If you would quit taking up
so much bandwidth on this list telling yourself how much you know, I think
that you might actually have the capacity to learn something here!

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 22:15:49 1999
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Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 19:20:04 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: Cam regrinds feasible?  (roller regrind)
In-Reply-To: <4.1.19990501133535.00bdd760@istar.ca>
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 <4.1.19990501104729.039697f0@istar.ca>
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I have a roller that was for a pro-stock, something like .775" lift, just a
bit much for my use, not much, but just on the edge for a road race card
(BBC). So Had it cut back to the .700 or so (I forget). I decided to back
to the nice safe Chevy ZL1 Solid lifter cam, always worked good, so why change.

Sandy


At 01:38 PM 5/1/99 -0700, you wrote:
>At 12:27 PM 5/1/99 -0700, you wrote:
>>You can do some regrinding to rollers, I did, but it was almost not worth
>>it. The problem that I was told is that if you do too much you need to have
>>it re-heatreated, and then it typically gets out of wack in terms of
>>straightness or  so he said. They can take some off and change the profile
>>a bit, but you need to check with a grinder that can do it to see how much
>>and actually what it will cost. In the long run, more problems then it's
>>worth, just get the grind you want and save the exercise.
>>
>>Sandy
>
>That's one q I'd been wondering on, can they successfully retreat the 'new'
>outer core to a suitable hardness while maintaining a more ductile inner
>core.  I guess I'm always trying to figure out a way to get my foot in the
>door and gradually create the more expensive product w/ less money;^)
>having a hard time phoning them as they're 'only' a 5 day 9-5 company...hmm
>that's what we are and I like it;^)
>
>
>Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada 
>
> '80 327ZX   IZCC#255, Edmonton Z-car Club #44, British Columbia ZCR        
>Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the
>straights
>
>mailto:zxv@istar.ca     *New ICQ # 11549358
>http://home.iSTAR.ca/~zxv/index.shtml
>http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg    where a
>Z belongs


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 23:06:49 1999
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Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 21:07:12 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: atomization enhancement
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> >Caterpillar has carried this to extremes and
>> >has some diesel engines running ungodly high pressures....I don't know
>> >the exact figures.
>
>On our International it's 2,800-3,200 PSI.  But, this is diesel.
>
>> >    I propose changing out the injectors on my vehicle with injectors
>> >rated for lower flow, and raising the pressure to compensate.
>> >Pressure would be adjusted in "open loop" mode using an exhaust
>> >analyzer.  It has been said that most injectors are rated at pressures
>> >far above what they are operated at.
>> >    I'm sure this is far from an original idea, and that some of you
>> >have done it..... How much difference does it make, and what about
>> >pump load at the higher pressures..... how much increase in pressure
>> >is required.
>> >    I'd like to hear about peoples experiences and mishaps doing this
>>
>> Most injectors will go to 80 maybe 100 PSI differential tops across them
>> before they will either stick fully open or stick fully closed.
>
>Some of the disc type completely lock closed at as low as 90, the pintle
>"seem" OK to 110, or so.  Again this are reported numbers, but the 90 and
>disc was from a reputable source.
>Grumpy

Some custom (efi, not diesel) injectors are running 200--300 psi delta.
Formula car apps. and such.  $ 600 or so apiece.

Greg
>
>> ===========================================================
>>            David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
>>      Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
>>    Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they
>didn't?!
>> ===========================================================
>>



From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 23:10:19 1999
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Could you detail what a *flathead*
>>> motor design consists of?
>>
>>Yeah.. the heads are flat.  ;)  Nothing in them but the plugs.
>>
>>During the early part of the century up through the 50's, Ford made
>>flathead V8s which were extremely good engines and used in a wide
>variety
>
While on the subject, let's not forget the "F" head--one valve in the head
and one in the block! Jeep, for one did it.

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 23:22:29 1999
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Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 23:22:11 -0400
From: James Ballenger <jballeng@vt.edu>
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CEIJR@aol.com wrote:

> James:
>         Although we haven't done extensive testing yet, we have benched some
> injectors at varying pressures and pulse widths. As we suspected before
> setting up the bench, the generally accepted formulas are not very accurate.
> An increase in pulse from 2 ms to 4 ms does not exactly double flow. Nor does
> flow vary directly with the square root of the pressure. The dynamics of
> opening and closing are affected differently by pressure for different
> injector types and sizes, and obviously flow is affected by the percentage of
> the pulse a particular injector takes to open and close. Math is good for
> ballpark estimates, and injector selection, but bench testing and then dyno
> testing are unfortunately necessary for final tuning.

    Just out of curiosity, how many points did you take the data at?  What I'm
getting at is, can a mathematical approximation be made for a particular type or
size injector and how much might it vary from another injector type?  Was the
flow = Sqrt(pressure) close?

James Ballenger


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 23:34:16 1999
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From: "Mike Pilkenton" <mpilkent@ptw.com>
To: "DIY-EFI" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        "4/6 Cyl. Performance" <DomesticPerformance@onelist.com>
Subject: radiators?
Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 20:34:10 -0700
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I know this is a little off topic for the efi list but I'm finishing up my
3.1L V6 engine transplant project into my Opel GT and it's time to think
about cooling.  Can anyone suggest a decent OEM radiator that would be
sufficient for the GM 60 degree V6 and fit in a tight area say about 13 in
tall by 16 in wide?

Mike


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 23:39:07 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Cam regrinds feasible?  (roller regrind)
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>You can do some regrinding to rollers, I did, but it was almost not worth
>it. The problem that I was told is that if you do too much you need to have
>it re-heatreated, and then it typically gets out of wack in terms of
>straightness or  so he said. They can take some off and change the profile
>a bit, but you need to check with a grinder that can do it to see how much
>and actually what it will cost. In the long run, more problems then it's
>worth, just get the grind you want and save the exercise.
>
>Sandy

Yep--Roller cams are generally made out of 8620 steel--a gear steel, like
is used for ring and pinion gears. These cams are case hardened, using
copper plating to mask the parts of their surface (everything but the
lobes)  which do not get the high carbon case (plate the whole thing, then
grind the copper off of the lobes). I think the carburized case is only
.030 to .050" thick, and you really need most of it for the lobes to live.
Re heat-treating such a cam is not at all simple to do properly--you would
have to rough grind to new profile, re plate, grind plating off of lobes,
recarburize, and then finish grind.  (If you want it right.) Pretty likely
to be every bit as expensive as a new one.

Just get one, new, the way you want.

Regards, Greg
>
>At 10:49 AM 5/1/99 -0700, you wrote:
>>well here's the last of my q's that have gone unresolved off other
>>resources....
>>
>>Local super comp dragster racing team has been selling of some unused new
>>stuff in the local penny ads.  They have one custom Bruce Crower ground
>>roller cam, 650 lift, 300 duration w/ 105 centre left brand new that's too
>>conservative for their efforts of late for $100CD.  They sold a 2nd one
>>same specs to a 'vette owner who had it reground to 575 lift, 112 lobe
>centres.
>>
>>I'll check out the regrind price from the local grind guru's "Shadbolt"
>>(any horror stories on them?  I've only heard good so far), but at their
>>price I should be able to get a reground roller for 30% or so below new and
>>to my own custom specs, assuming their's room in this monster for a 214/218
>>at 114 or 115 or similar (or v. open to reccomendations....).  I know I'd
>>need the Bronze distr. gear for $40CD or so as well.
>>
>>Just checking this out.  For their cost I might just pick it up and decide
>>later as I don't think  resale 'netwise would be hard to break even.
>>
>>thanks again
>>
>>Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada
>>
>> '80 327ZX   IZCC#255, Edmonton Z-car Club #44, British Columbia ZCR
>>Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the
>>straights
>>
>>mailto:zxv@istar.ca     *New ICQ # 11549358
>>http://home.iSTAR.ca/~zxv/index.shtml
>>http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg    where a
>>Z belongs



From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 23:40:41 1999
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Bruce Plecan wrote:

>   If when ya do the cam, on the passenger side of the water pump is a hole
> in the water pump/block.  Tap that out and put a 1/8 pipe plug in, it.

Is that the weep hole or something else?  Why would you want to plug it?

> Then drill a 1/16 or 1/8" hole in it.  Also, a 1/8" hole in the thermostat.
>     The above is just what works for me.

    I had very good luck with the small (1/8") hole cooling down my overheating
escort, when I had it.

James Ballenger



From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  1 23:43:57 1999
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From: "Rudi Machilek" <rudi@vnet.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: 1227749
Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 23:43:45 -0400
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<Original Message>
Oh, and I pressure tested my homemade fuel rails this morning and they
leak right through the aluminum tubing.  I found that odd.  I know
aluminum is somewhat porous compared to other metals, but 100psi of air
pressure on the end of the fuel rail, submerging it into a litter box
full of water resulted in small bubbles forming on the surface of the
aluminum.  When the pressure is released, the bubbles appear to receed
back into the aluminum.  Very odd.  Just thought you'd all get a kick
out of it.

<Reply>

Seamed tubing, aluminum, or stainless even, may show bubbles when tested with nitrogen (air).  If the bubbles do not flow, no real big deal.  Any liquid fuel is a lot bigger molecule than nitrogen.  Use seamless tubing to avoid that.  

For fun, take some 304 or 316 SS tubing (even seamless) and submerge it in Clorox for a week.  Now leak test that.  Provides a new definition for porous.  Use 317 SS (not very available) and almost no effect.  Materials studies are a great way to burn a bunch of hours.  

Rudi Machilek


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 00:29:35 1999
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From: "Howard Wilkinson" <owly@mcn.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Flame - Not
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 21:20:11 -0700
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William:
    You wrote:

>
>Some of the old 4-cylinder Jeeps were flatheads, some were OHV.  As
far as
>I know all modern Jeep engines are OHV or OHC.
>


On this note, one of the old 4 banger Jeep engines was called an F
head and had 4 overhead valves in the head, and 4 flathead type valves
in the block.... an interesting design.         H.W.



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 00:29:41 1999
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From: "Howard Wilkinson" <owly@mcn.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 21:35:24 -0700
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Greg:
    More power to you if you can accomplish that...... I happen to
live in the real world, and deal with old fashioned Ford & GM engines
such as the FE series and the Small block & big block GM engines.  The
comment on life expectancy is based on 20+ years of working on these
engines.
    I'd love to see a gas engine with a 500K life in a farm truck, and
a bcsf below .35............. With the technology people are using
around here the service life I spoke of is realistic based on real
life experience, not labratory environments..... some go over 100K
TBO, but not many, and it is a struggle to achieve a bcsf of .50
(impossible with a Holley carb).  I've worked on a lot of engines over
the years, but apparently not seen the bearing setup you
describe...... I presume you are refering to Ford 239 engine when
speaking of "flattys", and assume you speak of a single bearing
spanning an entire rod journal (2 rods)..... I've owned vehicles with
these engines, but never had to work on them.
    I'll believe the .35 and 500k figure when I see it in real life!

-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net>
>
>Then I guess I must be nuts to be building a gas engine for duty in a
27500
>GCVW vehicle which is designed make 925 ft lbs from 1600 thru 4000
rpm,
>continuous duty, anywhere from sea level up to 11K MSL , on ULR fuel,
and
>have a 10000 hour (500K mile) design life! (And have a cruising bsfc
below
>.35 #/bhphr.!)
>



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 00:36:46 1999
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Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 01:32:04 -0400
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On Sat, 1 May 1999 21:07:12 -0600 bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann) writes:

<snip>

>Some custom (efi, not diesel) injectors are running 200--300 psi delta.
>Formula car apps. and such.  $ 600 or so apiece.
>
>Greg

Well... so much for the thought of getting four of them and using them to
inject liquid propane.  Oh well...


Ray

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 00:37:03 1999
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>On Sat, 1 May 1999, Raymond C Drouillard wrote:
>
>> >of their cars and a number of early street rods.  Not only Ford used
>> >flathead engines though; I've got one in a '55 Jeep, which is an inline
>> >6-cylinder.
>>
>> I believe that they were used with the inline 4 cylinder Jeep engines,
>> also.
>
>Some of the old 4-cylinder Jeeps were flatheads, some were OHV.  As far as
>I know all modern Jeep engines are OHV or OHC.

There was also the not-so modern SOHC hemi Tornado. Quite the motor in its
IKA (Argentinian) twelve port headed, triple DCEO Webered trim! (310 HP
from 230 cid at only 5200 rpm!

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 00:37:08 1999
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From: "Rudi Machilek" <rudi@vnet.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Fuel Pump Check Valve...
Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 00:36:33 -0400
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Swagelok - outlets in any major city.  

Can specify seal material and are rebuildable.  

Rudi Machilek


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 00:44:17 1999
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Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 21:43:39 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Aaron Willis <darkmonahue@awwwsome.com>
Subject: Re: Espen's Reed Valves
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At 06:35 PM 5/3/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Espen:
>    That's one I've never heard..... or even considered...... what a
>thought.... Has someone been doing that.....Wow the possibilities are
>fantastic..... With such a setup you could use a centrifugal advanced
>cam to get variable duration and the reed valves would take care of
>the blowback problem at the low end......    At least a first thought
>it seems like a brilliant solution.... wish I'd thought of that
>one..... I'm going to have to think on that a bit more.  It takes care
>of the intake at least.             H.W.
>
>>
>>Offcourse.......you are right , I have wanted to try a 4 stroke with reed
valves
>>in the intake and run a camshaft thats good for top end......
>>Espen
>>
>>
>
>
	Honda did this in 1982 in their XR500 four-stroke dirt bike.  It was a
500cc (saw that coming) single and the reed valve apparently was used to
eliminate low-speed reversion which caused big singles to stumble or stall
at very low RPM.
	A friend of mine owned and rode one but I don't suppose he ever removed
the valve to evaluate its effectiveness.


	Aaron Willis
	ICQ #27386985
	AOL IM: hemiyota
	http://surf.to/garage-te51 Garage TE51 International

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From: James Ballenger <jballeng@vt.edu>
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Howard Wilkinson wrote:

> My thinking is that if you provide a  high enough gear ratio to
> accomplish the objective of nearly always being able to throttle with
> the transmission, it will at times be
> necessary to gear down further than your belt drive transmission
> allows for power, just as gravity may overcome your ability to
> throttle with load at the other end.   H.W.

I agree, though I would say a wide enough gear ratio rather than high
enough because the range would have to be beyond the scope of todays
transmissions to keep the engine constant.

James Ballenger


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 01:37:31 1999
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Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid?
Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 01:37:56 -0400
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It reduces the amount of water bypasing the radiator, and also, helps to
pressurize the coolant in the head at higher rpm, reducing localized hot
spotting.
All, very good things..   The hole in the thermostat is to make sure no air
accumulates on the bottom side of it.   If ya llook close on some hot rods
the first day after running the heater full one for weeks the temp guage
rises rather high the first time the thermostat opens.   The colder the
weather the worse quicker this happens.
Bruce


> >   If when ya do the cam, on the passenger side of the water pump is a
hole
> > in the water pump/block.  Tap that out and put a 1/8 pipe plug in, it.
> Is that the weep hole or something else?  Why would you want to plug it?
> > Then drill a 1/16 or 1/8" hole in it.  Also, a 1/8" hole in the
thermostat.
> >     The above is just what works for me.
>     I had very good luck with the small (1/8") hole cooling down my
overheating
> escort, when I had it.
> James Ballenger



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 01:44:18 1999
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Raymond C Drouillard wrote:

> CHANGING THE GEARING CHANGES THE ENGINE SPEED!  THAT IS THE WHOLE POINT!

    Shifting gears changes the engine speed.  The point is if we didnt need
to shift and had a smooth transition through the whole range we could keep
the engine rpm constant.  When you are in first gear you rev up the engine in
a static gear and then shift it to start reving in a new static gear.  You
could make the gearing dynamic, a cvt, and be able to keep the engine speed
constant.


> A CVT doesn't change the power (besides the ordinary efficiency losses).
> If you attempt to reduce the torque to the drive wheels by changing the
> gear ratio, you will either slow down the engine or speed up the vehicle.
>
> An unthrottled engine running at a specific speed (max torque, for
> example) is going to put out a specific amount of power.  If this is more
> power than is required to maintain the desired cruise speed, the vehicle
> will speed up.

    A cvt wouldnt change the effective torque at the crank, but would modify
it at the drive wheels.  What happens if you keep your rpm constant and shift
from 1st to 4th?  You can keep the load on the engine constant and therefore
the rpm constant by changing the gear ratio.   I suppose a problem occurs
when there is little load on the engine, but the could be countered by an
insanely low (numerically) gear keeping in mind I am discussing a perfect cvt
with infinite range.

> If you want to prevent this without throttling - that is, if you want to
> maintain the same cruise speed without throttling, you will need to
> change the gear ratio.  Assuming that you don't speed up, the engine will
> HAVE to slow down.

You don't have to slow the engine down, you reduce the transmission ratio.

James Ballenger


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 01:46:43 1999
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs
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>Greg:
>    More power to you if you can accomplish that...... I happen to
>live in the real world, and deal with old fashioned Ford & GM engines
>such as the FE series and the Small block & big block GM engines.  The
>comment on life expectancy is based on 20+ years of working on these
>engines.
>    I'd love to see a gas engine with a 500K life in a farm truck, and
>a bcsf below .35............. With the technology people are using
>around here the service life I spoke of is realistic based on real
>life experience, not labratory environments..... some go over 100K
>TBO, but not many, and it is a struggle to achieve a bcsf of .50
>(impossible with a Holley carb).  I've worked on a lot of engines over
>the years, but apparently not seen the bearing setup you
>describe...... I presume you are refering to Ford 239 engine when
>speaking of "flattys", and assume you speak of a single bearing
>spanning an entire rod journal (2 rods)..... I've owned vehicles with
>these engines, but never had to work on them.
>    I'll believe the .35 and 500k figure when I see it in real life!
>
The 500K figure takes a good engine to begin with, and then some high tech
tricks and quality parts on top of that. The engine I have started out with
has a lengthy track record of running 10K hours on the heads, and 25 K
hours on the bottom end, on natural gas, at about 80% load, 2400 rpm on
well head irrigation pump applications.  And that--with "farmer"
maintenance! So--I think, with some careful attention to details, my
durability goal is attainable.

As for the GM motors--going for durability is a bad joke. (With the
exception of the GMC  (247/270/305) I- 6, V-6's and V-12's!) The FE and 385
Fords are considerably better than the usual GM's, and a 534 is better
still, although a (top oiler) FE needs a lot of hand work on the oil
passages in the block in order to live a long happy life. RB Mopars do a
LOT better in the durability dept. than either. Too bad Mopar never built a
REALLY big block motor!!

As to the bsfc--check out some dyno charts for small block f & c engines
running IR manifolded Weber carbs. .375 bsfc is common on these engines
with this type of an induction setup and good headers--given a competent
tuner. In fact--these numbers could just lead a guy to believe that there
is something to this business of wanting better fuel atomization and a fuel
squirt timed to coincide with high inhale velocity in the port!  So--with
good efi, .35 should be within reach for light loads. The real challenge
will be in seeing how much lower than that can be had!! A competently tuned
Holley will get down to about .45 bsfc on a decent motor, in my experience.
(Somewhat lower if not into the power valve, and maybe just a little higher
at WOT if you know how to set the pvcr correctly.)

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 01:50:45 1999
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Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid?
References: <4.1.19990501091036.03912b60@istar.ca> <00e201be93f8$363b9700$1f633acf@nacelp> <372AF5C5.242113D5@arm.com>
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I'vr brazed a washer to the end of the heater hose nipple.  That seems
to provide a good restriction.
Shannen

steve ravet wrote:
> 
> The JTR S-10 book shows 2 Everco 5/8" heater hose fittings, one with a
> built-in restriction (3/8").  Part #H2894.  They also list a similar GM
> part, #10039163, used on some 4cyl S-10s, to restrict flow.
> 
> I am pretty sure there is an in-line restrictor used on some Corvettes,
> but I can't find in in JTR book.
> 
> > > I know this is NC but I"ve exhausted my related Nissan/Datsun list w/ no
> > > good info.
> > > A few of us have sb chevy V8's and several have experienced heater core
> > > problems d/2 higher/greater coolant flows/pressure (I don't know
> > > specifically), they've replaced w/ brand new units and halfway thru
> > winding
> > > out and leaving another NSX (their ride, mine wouldn't do that;^) their
> > > heater core will fail again.
> > > They only discussed ways to just bypass the heater core which is simple
> > but
> > > I live in the often rainy pacific nw so need heat occassionally throughout
> > > the year and would prefer some sort of pressure reducer mini-manifold but
> > > I"m not familiar w/ what hardwar is out their or the simplest way to solve
> > > this.  I'm not sure if it's simply a matter of too much flow or pressure
> > or
> > > combo of both that fails them.  Mine's still OK but I haven't ran it very
> > > hard yet and want to preempt a painful heater core R&R etc.
> > > Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada
> 
> --
> Steve Ravet
> ARM, INC
> steve.ravet@arm.com
> www.arm.com


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Bruce Plecan wrote:

> It reduces the amount of water bypasing the radiator, and also, helps to
> pressurize the coolant in the head at higher rpm, reducing localized hot
> spotting.

Ok, I just didnt know which hole you were referring to.  Would the increase in
pressure at that point lead to a lower volume of water passed through the
heads?  Or would that be counter-acted by the decrease in volume at the bypass?

> All, very good things..   The hole in the thermostat is to make sure no air
> accumulates on the bottom side of it.   If ya llook close on some hot rods
> the first day after running the heater full one for weeks the temp guage
> rises rather high the first time the thermostat opens.   The colder the
> weather the worse quicker this happens.

I have seen people do this on each side of the thermostat, where did you drill
the hole?

James Ballenger


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 02:11:41 1999
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Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid?
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> Ok, I just didnt know which hole you were referring to.  Would the
increase in
> pressure at that point lead to a lower volume of water passed through the
> heads?  Or would that be counter-acted by the decrease in volume at the
bypass?

On the passenger side of the waterpump/block there is a bypass hole about
3/8" in diameter.  Just look at a gasket and you'll see it.  SBC.
>
> > All, very good things..   The hole in the thermostat is to make sure no
air
> > accumulates on the bottom side of it.   If ya llook close on some hot
rods
> > the first day after running the heater full one for weeks the temp guage
> > rises rather high the first time the thermostat opens.   The colder the
> > weather the worse quicker this happens.
>
> I have seen people do this on each side of the thermostat, where did you
drill
> the hole?

Anywhere exposed to coolant.  You just want a way for trapped air to pass
the thermostat.
Bruce
>
> James Ballenger
>


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Raymond C Drouillard wrote:
> 
> On Fri, 30 Apr 1999 22:21:36 -0400 (EDT) William T Wilson
> <fluffy@snurgle.org> writes:
> >On Fri, 30 Apr 1999, H Villemure wrote:
> >
> >> I am more of an ignoramus than most on this list- just a fresh
> >> mechanical engineering graduate. Could you detail what a *flathead*
> >> motor design consists of?
> >
> >Yeah.. the heads are flat.  ;)  Nothing in them but the plugs.
> >
> >During the early part of the century up through the 50's, Ford made
> >flathead V8s which were extremely good engines and used in a wide
> variety
> >of their cars and a number of early street rods.  Not only Ford used
> >flathead engines though; I've got one in a '55 Jeep, which is an inline
> >6-cylinder.
> 
> I believe that they were used with the inline 4 cylinder Jeep engines,
> also.
> 
Packard straight eight was flathead, I think the 6 cyl Jeep engine
began life as a Willys Hercules 6, and I think Dodge made a flathead 6
cyl also.  Then there's the 348/409 Chebby which has valves in head
but no combustion cchamber cast in.
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 02:32:34 1999
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From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
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Charles wrote:
> 
> On Sat, 1 May 1999 02:22:31 -0400, you wrote:
> 
> > PUT na na na PUT na na PUT PUT PUT na na na na...
> 
> >Sounds like a John Deere 2cyl tractor.  Massive flywheel and long
> >stroke crank made for similar sounds at idle.
> >Shannen
> 
> Actually, all my 2-cyl John Deere's go:
> 
> PUT PUT na na PUT PUT na na PUT PUT na na.
> 
> Fires at 0 and 180 degrees, then coasts for 540 degrees
> (hence the massive flywheel).
> 
> -Charles
> JD 50
> JD 420
> ;)
That's interesting about the timing.  I do remember less consistency
in the exhaust sound though, with an occasional POP thrown in to give
the dogs something to bark at.  Your Deeres are undoubtedly in a
better state of tune.
Shannen


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Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid?
References: <4.1.19990501091036.03912b60@istar.ca> <00e201be93f8$363b9700$1f633acf@nacelp> <372BC923.86669A84@vt.edu> <027b01be945d$ef2373e0$1f633acf@nacelp> <372BE861.3092A136@vt.edu>
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James Ballenger wrote:
> 
> Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> > It reduces the amount of water bypasing the radiator, and also, helps to
> > pressurize the coolant in the head at higher rpm, reducing localized hot
> > spotting.
> 
> Ok, I just didnt know which hole you were referring to.  Would the increase in
> pressure at that point lead to a lower volume of water passed through the
> heads?  Or would that be counter-acted by the decrease in volume at the bypass?

The bypass allows coolant to return to the inlet side of the pump from
the engine block.  Reducing the diameter of the hole is akin to
plugging a leak in a pressure line.  There's more volume and pressure
available at the end of the line with the leak plugged.
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 03:48:22 1999
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Subject: Re: Cam regrinds feasible?  (roller regrind)
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An additional consideration with re-grinding cams is the
torsional relaxation caused by removing significant amounts
of metal. This changes the phase relationships between lobes.
I have in my possession a performance regrind TR6 cam which
has a 14 degree phase error between front and rear lobe pair
centers. The grind was done by a national rep grinder (and
purportedly checked with their cam doctor).

This is probably a worst-case deal, as this cam is long and
slender, and has ~.125" additional lift ground-in, but much
smaller phase errors screw things up noticeably. 
This too can be avoided by proper regrinding techniques, but 
once again, by the time you do it right, you coulda bought a 
new one...

I check new ones too :)

Regards, Jack



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 03:48:22 1999
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Pardon me for interrupting the spirited repartee, but what 
the heck is a floating bearing, Greg? I know about inserts 
and rollers, have poured and bored babbit bushes... 
Piston pins "float" in rod bushes - Unless they don't.
Perhaps you are referring to dip/splash oiling schemes, as 
opposed to pressure lubrication?
Anyway, would appreciate an elaboration.

Thanks, Jack


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 04:24:12 1999
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Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 01:23:47 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Aaron Willis <darkmonahue@awwwsome.com>
Subject: Re: Flame - Not (Tornado engine?)
In-Reply-To: <v01510101b3518665834f@[204.132.128.2]>
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At 10:37 PM 5/1/99 -0600, you wrote:
>
>There was also the not-so modern SOHC hemi Tornado. Quite the motor in its
>IKA (Argentinian) twelve port headed, triple DCEO Webered trim! (310 HP
>from 230 cid at only 5200 rpm!
>
>Regards, Greg
>
>
>
	Hey, cool, I've seen one but know nothing about them.  What did they come
in?  The one I saw was a Jeep military truck, and did NOT have three DCOE
Webers!!  What would be packing the hot version?


	Aaron Willis
	ICQ #27386985
	AOL IM: hemiyota
	http://surf.to/garage-te51 Garage TE51 International

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 05:53:31 1999
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Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 05:52:37 EDT
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs,,,this is for Greg H.........I can feel
	flames coming
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Hi Greg,
       And I was just starting to like this guy.......truly no offense Howard 
but you've got alot to learn..........I used to have people call me for 
advise just so they could tell me they've been doing it for over twenty years 
and I need to wipe behind my ears and  all I could think 
was...man......twenty years and you still can't get it right????...just a 
youngsters thought....
-Carl Summers

In a message dated 5/1/99 9:33:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time, owly@mcn.net 
writes:

<< Subj:	 Re: Fuel injection plugs
 Date:	5/1/99 9:33:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time
 From:	owly@mcn.net (Howard Wilkinson)
 Sender:	owner-diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
 Reply-to:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 
 Greg:
     More power to you if you can accomplish that...... I happen to
 live in the real world, and deal with old fashioned Ford & GM engines
 such as the FE series and the Small block & big block GM engines.  The
 comment on life expectancy is based on 20+ years of working on these
 engines.
     I'd love to see a gas engine with a 500K life in a farm truck, and
 a bcsf below .35............. With the technology people are using
 around here the service life I spoke of is realistic based on real
 life experience, not labratory environments..... some go over 100K
 TBO, but not many, and it is a struggle to achieve a bcsf of .50
 (impossible with a Holley carb).  I've worked on a lot of engines over
 the years, but apparently not seen the bearing setup you
 describe...... I presume you are refering to Ford 239 engine when
 speaking of "flattys", and assume you speak of a single bearing
 spanning an entire rod journal (2 rods)..... I've owned vehicles with
 these engines, but never had to work on them.
     I'll believe the .35 and 500k figure when I see it in real life!
  >>

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 08:26:47 1999
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jsg@donet.com wrote:

> I'm about to install a Vortech supercharger on my SBC 305 TPI, and
> I'm thinking about changing cams too.
>
> Of course that is of little help, and I would like some idea of what's
> going on before contacting manufactures. So, what does make for a good
> cam for applications like this?

I'm running a CompCam's Extreme blower cam on my 6# Vortech supercharged
LT1.  It has 218i/230e with a 114 lobe sep.  Lifts are .528i/.544e with
1.6:1 roller rockers.  The exhaust side, as someone said earlier, needs a
larger duration and lift to scavenge the exhaust gasses.  Intake isn't as
important as it was with the naturally aspirated engine because the blower
increases the volumetric efficiency over 100% anyway.  The lobe separation
at 114 keeps the overlap smaller to prevent blowing your intake air/fuel
charge right out the exhaust port. (power and fuel economy takes a dive)

Check my page for all the other mods I have done.  I'm making 450-500rwhp.
(not certain anymore...)
--
Glen Beard
95 T/A conv M6 Vortech  open y-pipe ;)
http://home.nycap.rr.com/gbeard1/TransAm.html



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 10:22:08 1999
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Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs
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>You don't have to slow the engine down, you reduce the transmission ratio.

James--you are missing the whole point. An unthrottled engine, such as a
diesel, at a constant speed is one thing. The biggest loss with a throttled
engine is the pumping losses--so at light loads you would need to lug the
engine down far enough to get only the output needed at WOT. The control
problem is not so simple as holding a constant engine speed, even with a
continuously variable tranny.

Greg
>
>James Ballenger



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 10:23:54 1999
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Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 10:23:03 EDT
Subject: Re: atomization enhancement
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James:
	About 5 data points each on four or five sets of injectors, just 
enough to show us that the injectors didn't follow predicted lines. Seldom as 
much as 15% off, but often 10% and never within 2% of predicted.
	A really good study would take a long time, and not realy do much, at 
least for our small race engine program, since engine efficiencies vary so 
much at different rpm's. 
										
			Charlie Iliff

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 10:25:35 1999
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Subject: Re: atomization enhancement
Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 10:10:11 -0400
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There has been some recent research that indicates the best atomization
occurs when the exhaust hits the puddled fuel behind the intake valve when
the valve opens.  Atomization of fuel as it leaves the injector is not
terribly important.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>


> I'd like to propose a simple atomization enhancement strategy.  It is
> well known that higher pressure results in better atomization in a
> fuel injection system.... Caterpillar has carried this to extremes and
> has some diesel engines running ungodly high pressures....I don't know
> the exact figures.
>     I propose changing out the injectors on my vehicle with injectors
> rated for lower flow, and raising the pressure to compensate.
> Pressure would be adjusted in "open loop" mode using an exhaust
> analyzer.  It has been said that most injectors are rated at pressures
> far above what they are operated at.
>     I'm sure this is far from an original idea, and that some of you
> have done it..... How much difference does it make, and what about
> pump load at the higher pressures..... how much increase in pressure
> is required.
>     I'd like to hear about peoples experiences and mishaps doing this
> ;-)
>
>                                                         H.W.
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 10:25:49 1999
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@oh.verio.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <372c216a.19083555@smtp.uia.net>
Subject: Re: Direct Injection - Stratified
Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 10:22:02 -0400
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Any time a device that restricts flow is introduced into the path of air and
fuel, power is reduced.  A pre-chamber is such a device and such an engine
will lose efficiency compared to an open chamber design.

As long as an engine runs lean enough to use all the available fuel, leaner
is only useful to reduce pumping losses, which does improve economy, but
leaner is not the only way to reduce pumping losses.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>

snip
> Try some out of box thinking.  The propaganda is that Stratified Charge is
to
> facilitate burning an overall lean mixture thereby increasing milage.
snip
> , think about using two fuels.  The first - thru the prechamber, is an
easy to
> ignite, relatively fast burning fuel that will generate a nice flame jet
and
> readily ignite the main chamber.
snip


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From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Flame - Not (Tornado engine?)
In-Reply-To: <3.0.6.32.19990502012347.00814320@sal.awwwsome.com>
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On Sun, 2 May 1999, Aaron Willis wrote:

> At 10:37 PM 5/1/99 -0600, you wrote:
> >
> >There was also the not-so modern SOHC hemi Tornado. Quite the motor in its
> >IKA (Argentinian) twelve port headed, triple DCEO Webered trim! (310 HP
> >from 230 cid at only 5200 rpm!
> >
> 	Hey, cool, I've seen one but know nothing about them.  What did they come
> in?  The one I saw was a Jeep military truck, and did NOT have three DCOE
> Webers!!  What would be packing the hot version?
> 
Jeep used the Continental 6-226 for years. A typical long stroke flathead
engine. Jeep even called some models the 6-226. As an elcheapo way of
modernizing this ancient engine, they came up with the OHC head. The long,
spindly 6-226 connecting rods loved the higher RPM that came with the new
head...NOT.

Most of these engines [that I saw] were on auto wrecker core piles. The
head always looked OK which is more than you could say about the sides of
the block.

Oh, yeah. Continental has an interesting policy on parts prices. 


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 11:55:14 1999
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From: "Howard Wilkinson" <owly@mcn.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid?
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 08:22:53 -0700
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It would seem to me that no matter what you do as far as restriction,
as soon as the key is shut off, the increase in cooling system
pressure will be equal throughout the system.  I find it hard to
imagine that the heater core would be subjected to enough increased
pressure from the water pump to be an issue.  The water pump mainly
creates a pressure differential throughout the system so that coolant
can circulate..... I suspect that there is very little if any increase
relative to atmospheric pressure over what the static system pressure
is.  A good heater core should be capable of withstanding any internal
cooling system pressure likely to be seen in an automobile with a
properly functioning pressure cap.         H.W.


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 11:55:18 1999
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From: "Howard Wilkinson" <owly@mcn.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 08:48:55 -0700
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Greg:
    I've personally seen irrigation pump motors run on propane over
10K hrs.  This is a considerably different environment than a farm
truck.
    As for Holley carbs, it is unfortunate that pot metal has very low
salvage value.  I'll just have to take your word for it on the
potential of these carbs.... I've never seen it.   When you do get one
of these working halfway decently, they have a very short life
expectancy between overhauls.  I've over the years replaced every
Holly carb I ever owned with the good old style Autolight / Motorcraft
carbs that actually can be made to work correctly and efficiently
throughout their operating range.  It is unfortunate that the Holly,
Motorcraft, and Autolight carb familys used neoprene diaphragms in
accelerator pumps and in power valves.... they don't like today's gas
at all.
    Personally I feel that of the 4 bbl carbs available, the plain old
Quadrajet would have had the most potential of any of them if they had
only made replaceable secondary orfices.... once these are worn
there's nothing to be done.  I've built a puller and removed them, and
I suppose you could manufacture a replacement, but......   Now we've
got EFI.
    I take nearly all horsepower claims with more than a grain of
salt...... I also must confess to be a grave doubter of bscf numbers.
What I've often run into in the aviation field are people who state
the max horsepower, and then state a fuel consumption figure which is
obviously taken at 20% or 30% throttle in such a way as to imply that
their engine for example puts out 100 hp on 2 gpm when in truth their
100hp engine will not put out a sustained 100hp, nor will it do it on
the absurd figure of 2gpm.  The engine is in fact putting out about 24
hp when the fuel consumption is measured.  I suspect that this
nonsense is not confined only to aviation.  All bscf figures which
exceed .5 by very much automatically fall under suspicion here
:-)..... No offense intended.          H.W.


-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Hermann

>The 500K figure takes a good engine to begin with, and then some high
tech
>tricks and quality parts on top of that. The engine I have started
out with
>has a lengthy track record of running 10K hours on the heads, and 25
K
>hours on the bottom end, on natural gas, at about 80% load, 2400 rpm
on
>well head irrigation pump applications.  And that--with "farmer"
>maintenance! So--I think, with some careful attention to details, my
>durability goal is attainable.
>
>As to the bsfc--check out some dyno charts for small block f & c
engines
>running IR manifolded Weber carbs. .375 bsfc is common on these
engines
>with this type of an induction setup and good headers--given a
competent
>tuner. In fact--these numbers could just lead a guy to believe that
there
>is something to this business of wanting better fuel atomization and
a fuel
>squirt timed to coincide with high inhale velocity in the port!
So--with
>good efi, .35 should be within reach for light loads. The real
challenge
>will be in seeing how much lower than that can be had!! A competently
tuned
>Holley will get down to about .45 bsfc on a decent motor, in my
experience.
>(Somewhat lower if not into the power valve, and maybe just a little
higher
>at WOT if you know how to set the pvcr correctly.)
>
>Regards, Greg
>
>
>


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From: "Howard Wilkinson" <owly@mcn.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 08:51:19 -0700
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James:
    I'm not speaking of keeping the engine constant..... only keeping
it a WOT........  The RPM is the throttle and is controlled by the
gearing and load.
                                           H.W.

-----Original Message-----
From: James Ballenger <jballeng@vt.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, May 02, 1999 12:17 AM
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs


>
>
>Howard Wilkinson wrote:
>
>> My thinking is that if you provide a  high enough gear ratio to
>> accomplish the objective of nearly always being able to throttle
with
>> the transmission, it will at times be
>> necessary to gear down further than your belt drive transmission
>> allows for power, just as gravity may overcome your ability to
>> throttle with load at the other end.   H.W.
>
>I agree, though I would say a wide enough gear ratio rather than high
>enough because the range would have to be beyond the scope of todays
>transmissions to keep the engine constant.
>
>James Ballenger
>
>


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From: "Howard Wilkinson" <owly@mcn.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Cam regrinds feasible?  (roller regrind)
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 09:00:47 -0700
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Jack:
    I have long suspected that many cams have considerable error in
the alignment of lobe centers.
    I once was asked to change out the third Subaru (EA 81) engine for
a fellow who had installed 2 rebuilt engines only to have to return
them to the rebuilder due to rattling.  This was a major Seattle area
rebuilder.  When I looked at the engine pior to removal to determine
exactly what was happening, I discovered that it was valve noise, but
that it couldn't be adjusted out of it.  This seemed odd to me, so I
took measurements with feeler guages while turning the engine over a
little at a time, an discovered a low spot right at the base of the
ramp which when proper adjustment was made opposite the lobe yielded a
measurement of about .025.
    Human error seem to be inescapable.  Unfortunately with camshafts
it is very difficult to verify that they are what they are supposed to
be.     H.W.

-----Original Message-----
From: goflo@pacbell.net <goflo@pacbell.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, May 02, 1999 2:39 AM
Subject: Re: Cam regrinds feasible? (roller regrind)


>An additional consideration with re-grinding cams is the
>torsional relaxation caused by removing significant amounts
>of metal. This changes the phase relationships between lobes.
>I have in my possession a performance regrind TR6 cam which
>has a 14 degree phase error between front and rear lobe pair
>centers. The grind was done by a national rep grinder (and
>purportedly checked with their cam doctor).
>
>This is probably a worst-case deal, as this cam is long and
>slender, and has ~.125" additional lift ground-in, but much
>smaller phase errors screw things up noticeably.
>This too can be avoided by proper regrinding techniques, but
>once again, by the time you do it right, you coulda bought a
>new one...
>
>I check new ones too :)
>
>Regards, Jack
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 12:04:35 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 12:47:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs
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On Sun, 02 May 1999 01:46:50 -0400 James Ballenger <jballeng@vt.edu>
writes:
>
>
>Raymond C Drouillard wrote:
>
>> CHANGING THE GEARING CHANGES THE ENGINE SPEED!  THAT IS THE WHOLE
POINT!
>
>    Shifting gears changes the engine speed.  The point is if we didnt
need
>to shift and had a smooth transition through the whole range we could
keep
>the engine rpm constant.  When you are in first gear you rev up the
engine in
>a static gear and then shift it to start reving in a new static gear. 
You
>could make the gearing dynamic, a cvt, and be able to keep the engine
speed
>constant.
>
>
>> A CVT doesn't change the power (besides the ordinary efficiency
losses).
>> If you attempt to reduce the torque to the drive wheels by changing
the
>> gear ratio, you will either slow down the engine or speed up the
vehicle.
>>
>> An unthrottled engine running at a specific speed (max torque, for
>> example) is going to put out a specific amount of power.  If this is
more
>> power than is required to maintain the desired cruise speed, the
vehicle
>> will speed up.
>
>    A cvt wouldnt change the effective torque at the crank, but would
modify
>it at the drive wheels.  What happens if you keep your rpm constant and
shift
>from 1st to 4th?  You can keep the load on the engine constant and
therefore
>the rpm constant by changing the gear ratio.   I suppose a problem
occurs
>when there is little load on the engine, but the could be countered by
an
>insanely low (numerically) gear keeping in mind I am discussing a
perfect cvt
>with infinite range.
>
>> If you want to prevent this without throttling - that is, if you want
to
>> maintain the same cruise speed without throttling, you will need to
>> change the gear ratio.  Assuming that you don't speed up, the engine
will
>> HAVE to slow down.
>
>You don't have to slow the engine down, you reduce the transmission
ratio.
>
>James Ballenger
>

James,

Please find a textbook or go to the library and look up the formulas that
relate torque, speed, and power.  Also, look up the formulas that relate
gear ratio, torque multiplication, and speed multiplication.

I have memorized them long ago.

A lot of what you are saying flys directly in the face of those
mathematical relationships.  I have tried very patiently to explain how
such a system will work, but something just isn't working.

After you have memorized those formulas, reread the messages.  If you do
this, enlightenment will come.

Hint:
If you run an engine at WOT, it will produce a specific amount of power
at a specific speed.  If this power is more than necessary to overcome
friction, the vehicle WILL speed up.  It makes no difference whether you
are using a stepped or continuously variable transmission.

Adding a control system to a CVT will succeed in keeping the engine speed
stady, but the vehicle will STILL speed up.

It's simple physics.  Look up the formulas and try to apply them.


Ray Drouillard, BSEE

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From: Marc Piccioni <mpiccioni@attcanada.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: thank you
Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 10:11:37 -0600
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Just a short note to say that I am dropping off the list for a while, due 
to an extended trip. I wish to thank all the members who have answered my 
newbie EFI questions.

Regards

/Marc



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 12:21:07 1999
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Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 12:21:01 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: atomization enhancement
In-Reply-To: <024f01be94a7$3ac6a9e0$1f01d4cd@gderian>
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At 10:10 AM 5/2/99 -0400, you wrote:
>There has been some recent research that indicates the best atomization
>occurs when the exhaust hits the puddled fuel behind the intake valve when
>the valve opens.  Atomization of fuel as it leaves the injector is not
>terribly important.

Yes, but that's not atomization, that's vaporization... and if it's caused
by the exhaust hitting the puddled fuel, that means it's being blown back
into the intake runner causing intake dilution and fuel distribution problems.
===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
   Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 13:03:14 1999
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From: goflo@pacbell.net
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Subject: Re: Cam regrinds feasible?  (roller regrind)
References: <01be9647$46261d60$67930ccf@owlymcn.net.mcn.net>
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Not real familiar with Subaru grinds, but involute ramps are
common in some designs - Chrysler went through many permutations
of such on 2.2/2.5 motors, for instance. Regrinding such profiles
with conventional regrinding equipment is possible, but a poor
job will result in an engine which runs poorly, for no obvious
reason... 

Regards, Jack

Howard Wilkinson wrote:
> 
> Jack:
>     I have long suspected that many cams have considerable error in
> the alignment of lobe centers.
>     I once was asked to change out the third Subaru (EA 81) engine for
> a fellow who had installed 2 rebuilt engines only to have to return
> them to the rebuilder due to rattling.  This was a major Seattle area
> rebuilder.  When I looked at the engine pior to removal to determine
> exactly what was happening, I discovered that it was valve noise, but
> that it couldn't be adjusted out of it.  This seemed odd to me, so I
> took measurements with feeler guages while turning the engine over a
> little at a time, an discovered a low spot right at the base of the
> ramp which when proper adjustment was made opposite the lobe yielded a
> measurement of about .025.
>     Human error seem to be inescapable.  Unfortunately with camshafts
> it is very difficult to verify that they are what they are supposed to
> be.     H.W.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: goflo@pacbell.net <goflo@pacbell.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Sunday, May 02, 1999 2:39 AM
> Subject: Re: Cam regrinds feasible? (roller regrind)
> 
> >An additional consideration with re-grinding cams is the
> >torsional relaxation caused by removing significant amounts
> >of metal. This changes the phase relationships between lobes.
> >I have in my possession a performance regrind TR6 cam which
> >has a 14 degree phase error between front and rear lobe pair
> >centers. The grind was done by a national rep grinder (and
> >purportedly checked with their cam doctor).
> >
> >This is probably a worst-case deal, as this cam is long and
> >slender, and has ~.125" additional lift ground-in, but much
> >smaller phase errors screw things up noticeably.
> >This too can be avoided by proper regrinding techniques, but
> >once again, by the time you do it right, you coulda bought a
> >new one...
> >
> >I check new ones too :)


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 13:43:50 1999
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Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 10:24:17 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ross Corrigan <zxv@istar.ca>
Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid?
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Howard, I don't know any data specific terms to the heater core failures my
southern friends experienced (I'm in BC and they're all in the US) but it
always went during a WOT dust off of some other hipo car.  They replaced
initially w/ junkyard units, they failed, then with several Nissan units to
find they failed under same circumstances.  My inexperienced slant at it is
they had  a far higher volume/flow than that heater core would normally
experience d/2 their rate of acceleration/ hybrid chevy systems/ and most
likely the Nissan pumps weren't designed for this flow.  If not designed
for that flow and given much higher flow than OEM it could create higher
pressure than they were designed for given their has to be restrictions in
the heater core system leading to this pressure increase (if flow isn't
accomodated pressure goes up).  I agree w/ you that static pressure as you
described shouldn't be a problem as the systems are very similar in design
pressures and all related components were in as new condition.

These were all low 4 second 0-60 cars setup as sweet daily drivers on NA
chevy's.

Not fun having a heater core blow during a WOT high speed run that fogs
your windshield.  Just dont' want that to be me.

thanks again for all this feedback, I"m going to gather them up as a FAQ to
post on my page eventually for us ZV8's.

FWIW, their Datsun heater cores were 20+ yrs old and functioning fine when
they first went, no quality problems their.


At 08:22 AM 5/4/99 -0700, you wrote:
>It would seem to me that no matter what you do as far as restriction,
>as soon as the key is shut off, the increase in cooling system
>pressure will be equal throughout the system.  I find it hard to
>imagine that the heater core would be subjected to enough increased
>pressure from the water pump to be an issue.  The water pump mainly
>creates a pressure differential throughout the system so that coolant
>can circulate..... I suspect that there is very little if any increase
>relative to atmospheric pressure over what the static system pressure
>is.  A good heater core should be capable of withstanding any internal
>cooling system pressure likely to be seen in an automobile with a
>properly functioning pressure cap.         H.W.
>
>
>


Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada 

 '80 327ZX   IZCC#255, Edmonton Z-car Club #44, British Columbia ZCR        
Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the
straights

mailto:zxv@istar.ca     *New ICQ # 11549358
http://home.iSTAR.ca/~zxv/index.shtml
http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg    where a
Z belongs

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 13:56:07 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Subject: Re: atomization enhancement
Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 13:56:38 -0400
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Also, be advised many of the low end aromatics boil at 120-150dF depending
on the seasonal brew.
Bruce


> There has been some recent research that indicates the best atomization
> occurs when the exhaust hits the puddled fuel behind the intake valve when
> the valve opens.  Atomization of fuel as it leaves the injector is not
> terribly important.
> Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
 > I'd like to propose a simple atomization enhancement strategy.  It is
> > well known that higher pressure results in better atomization in a
> > fuel injection system.... Caterpillar has carried this to extremes and
> > has some diesel engines running ungodly high pressures....I don't know
> > the exact figures.
> >     I propose changing out the injectors on my vehicle with injectors
> > rated for lower flow, and raising the pressure to compensate.
> > Pressure would be adjusted in "open loop" mode using an exhaust
> > analyzer.  It has been said that most injectors are rated at pressures
> > far above what they are operated at.
> >     I'm sure this is far from an original idea, and that some of you
> > have done it..... How much difference does it make, and what about
> > pump load at the higher pressures..... how much increase in pressure
> > is required.
> >     I'd like to hear about peoples experiences and mishaps doing this
  H.W.



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 14:01:52 1999
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@idirect.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Check Valve...
Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 13:59:57 -0700
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>Another quick question for you guys... :)
>
>Anyone know of a source for an inline, high pressure check valve...in
either
>a 5/16" or 3/8" (dual barbed), or -6AN?




Talk to Kinsler Fuel Injection  (1-248-362-1145).  They have two different
style check valves (and fittings for same), which can be used expressly for
this purpose .  The first is a "flapper" style check, which has the
advantages of a very low cracking pressure and good flow potential.  The
second is of the "spring loaded poppet" style, which offers more positive
sealing while imposing a relatively high cracking pressure.

If purchasing industrial hydraulic equivalents (Parker, etc...), be mindful
of the overall flow potential and pressure drop issues.   They  can tend to
be somewhat constricted internally, despite the appearance of large
entry/exit ports.


Walt.


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 14:25:35 1999
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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: valve job question
Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 11:24:34 -0700 
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question for the group mind.

In my younger days when doing valve jobs for customers cars, I would clean
off the carbon that was on top of the cylinders. I used to rotate the engine
around and bring the pistons up to tdc and whirl away with a drill bit
mounted wire brush.


nowadays I wonder if all it did was make the piston top pretty and introduce
lots of debris into the engine especially the cylinder walls, creating years
of wear in minutes.

I'm doing a valve job on my Chevy v8, and I don't want to incur any more
wear on the cylinder walls nor do I really want to spin the motor around as
I want to drop the distributor right back in where I pulled it.

the engine was leaking oil past the guides and has a uniform amount of build
up on top of the pistons. 

should I

leave it alone, ?

spray some chemical thing on the top and leave it then wipe it all away ,
then most likely leave some lubricant in the cylinders.

or do something else ?



thanks, Ted Stowe

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Subject: machine shop suggestion needed for drilling side draft intake man
	ifold for injectors
Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 11:32:44 -0700 
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hi.

I have a cast iron intake for a inline 4 cyl that I would like to have
drilled for injectors.
it is a challenge to make this work and if I had a manifold to practice on
I'd do it myself but I'd rather have someone who knows what they are doing
handle it.

(cast iron, thin, and the surface area is curved)

can anyone give me any suggestions for speed shops , or whatever that could
do this ?

thanks. Ted.

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 14:51:02 1999
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Subject: Re: machine shop suggestion needed for drilling side draft intake 
 manifold for injectors
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> I have a cast iron intake for a inline 4 cyl that I would like to have
> drilled for injectors.

I just did this on my aluminum intake, and the concepts are the same.

http://www.xephic.dynip.com/dodge/383intake.htm

> it is a challenge to make this work and if I had a manifold to practice on
> I'd do it myself but I'd rather have someone who knows what they are doing
> handle it.

Since mine was aluminum, it was easier than cast iron to bore using "stubby"
drill bits in my drill press.  The injector bungs were made out of aluminum
tubing, lathed to fit the contour of the injectors, then TIG welded in.
Normally I use the www.durafix.com product, however I had an opportunity to
learn how to TIG recently, then use my friend's welder to achieve this.

However, if you can drill the holes yourself, or pay someone to drill them, you
can still braze in the injector bungs yourself.  The durafix site if you call
them used to have steel brazing rods that work on the same principle, however I
didn't see them on the website.  Anyway, using a propane torch, you can braze
in steel injector bungs and make a nice seal.  JB Weld will achieve the same
thing.  Another option my friend came up with is to thread the injector bungs,
thread the milled holes in the intake, and wrap teflon tape (or use locktite)
around the threads and screw them in.

I hope that helped.

---

Frederic Breitwieser

Xephic Technology
"Leadership in IT"
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Web: http://www.xephic.dynip.com
Voice: (203) 372-2707
Fax: (603) 372-1147



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 14:51:50 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: valve job question
Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 14:52:21 -0400
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Once ya get tit reassembles just use a plant mister, and spray in some
water.
Not alot, at once just a little for a while.  Steam cleans..  Next time
might do it first.
Bruce


> nowadays I wonder if all it did was make the piston top pretty and
introduce
> lots of debris into the engine especially the cylinder walls, creating
years
> of wear in minutes.
> I'm doing a valve job on my Chevy v8, and I don't want to incur any more
> wear on the cylinder walls nor do I really want to spin the motor around
as
> I want to drop the distributor right back in where I pulled it.
> the engine was leaking oil past the guides and has a uniform amount of
build
> up on top of the pistons.
> should I
> leave it alone, ?
> spray some chemical thing on the top and leave it then wipe it all away ,
> then most likely leave some lubricant in the cylinders.
> or do something else ?
 thanks, Ted Stowe



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 14:54:42 1999
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Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 12:55:05 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Flame - Not (Tornado engine?)
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>On Sun, 2 May 1999, Aaron Willis wrote:
>
>> At 10:37 PM 5/1/99 -0600, you wrote:
>> >
>> >There was also the not-so modern SOHC hemi Tornado. Quite the motor in its
>> >IKA (Argentinian) twelve port headed, triple DCEO Webered trim! (310 HP
>> >from 230 cid at only 5200 rpm!
>> >
>> 	Hey, cool, I've seen one but know nothing about them.  What did they come
>> in?  The one I saw was a Jeep military truck, and did NOT have three DCOE
>> Webers!!  What would be packing the hot version?
>>
>Jeep used the Continental 6-226 for years. A typical long stroke flathead
>engine. Jeep even called some models the 6-226. As an elcheapo way of
>modernizing this ancient engine, they came up with the OHC head. The long,
>spindly 6-226 connecting rods loved the higher RPM that came with the new
>head...NOT.
>
>Most of these engines [that I saw] were on auto wrecker core piles. The
>head always looked OK which is more than you could say about the sides of
>the block.
>
>Oh, yeah. Continental has an interesting policy on parts prices.

All true. The Argentinian Kaiser plant in Cordoba came up with some revised
rods along with the twelve port head. The car you would find such a beast
in was called a "Torino"--but not at all like a Ford by the same name. It
was based on the late sixties Rambler American body tub, but had an outer
skin done by Pinin Farina. It also had IRS, and about 8 inches of wheel
travel at each corner, and a five speed gear box which was built under
license from ZF.

The IKA Torinos absolutely dominated closed circuit AND over the road
racing in south america for a number of years, and one or two of them even
got entered in the endurance race at the Nurbergring one year, but they
were not very successful, mostly due to the rather long logistics line from
home.

Note the rather low engine speed for the peak power on the Torino version
of the Tornado engine--this speaks to Jim's comments about the Continental
block, even with far better rods installed. Scary to think how much power
they could have made with a stronger block and crank and some more revs and
48 mm in place of 45 mm Webers!

In this country--the Tornado engines only came with an eight port head
(individual exhausts, but two logged intakes), and obviously without the
good rods. It came in early sixties Gladiator pick-ups and Wagoneers. And,
as one might expect for a hemi head with a short duration cam with
aggressive valve lift rates, it got rather good mileage--about 17.5 mpg,
highway--- in a well tuned 4x4 Gladiator. But--no, it was not a high
revver.

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 15:08:53 1999
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Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 13:09:17 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid?
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>It would seem to me that no matter what you do as far as restriction,
>as soon as the key is shut off, the increase in cooling system
>pressure will be equal throughout the system.  I find it hard to
>imagine that the heater core would be subjected to enough increased
>pressure from the water pump to be an issue.  The water pump mainly
>creates a pressure differential throughout the system so that coolant
>can circulate..... I suspect that there is very little if any increase
>relative to atmospheric pressure over what the static system pressure
>is.  A good heater core should be capable of withstanding any internal
>cooling system pressure likely to be seen in an automobile with a
>properly functioning pressure cap.         H.W.

Your suspicions and imaginings are incorrect on this one, Howard.

While the heater core may or may not take the pressure OK, the water pump
makes a substantial amount of pressure head inside the water jackets. And
this additional head is VERY important to preventing localized boiling
(beyond nucleate boiling) in the hottest parts of the heads. The head is
created by the restriction to coolant flow which is provided by the
thermostat, and is why a thermostat should not be removed (or, if it is,
should be replaced by something which restricts coolant flow to the same
extent as the stat did).

The pressure head which the water pump generates is proportional to the
square of the pump rpm, and at , say, 5000 pump rpm, for a pump with an
impeller the size of most water pumps, it would not be unreasonable to
expect to see 25 or 30 psi of pressure in the water jackets in ADDITION the
pressure from the radiator cap!! And if the thermostat restriction is
removed, the water pump will cavitate due to not having enough NPSH at the
resulting (higher flow at less developed head) point on its curve for that
particular impeller speed!

Regads, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 15:21:33 1999
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Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 13:21:58 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: atomization enhancement
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>At 10:10 AM 5/2/99 -0400, you wrote:
>>There has been some recent research that indicates the best atomization
>>occurs when the exhaust hits the puddled fuel behind the intake valve when
>>the valve opens.  Atomization of fuel as it leaves the injector is not
>>terribly important.
>
>Yes, but that's not atomization, that's vaporization... and if it's caused
>by the exhaust hitting the puddled fuel, that means it's being blown back
>into the intake runner causing intake dilution and fuel distribution problems.

BINGO, Dave!!

Not to mention that this approach to fuel vaporization is thermodynamically
far less efficient than ATOMIZATION! Using the latent heat of the fuel to
cool the inlet valve, only so the valve can rob heat from the next power
stroke to heat back up is a thermal inefficiency. Letting the latent heat
of well atomized fuel make the compression process in the cylinder more
nearly isothermal than adiabatic increases net power output by reducing the
amount of work which the engine must do during the compression stroke!

Good vaporization of fuel is important to emissions--but it can happen
either way.

Good atomization of fuel is important only to power and efficiency, so it
has been somewhat shortchanged in the research funding.

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 15:34:14 1999
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Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 13:34:38 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: floating flatheads
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>Pardon me for interrupting the spirited repartee, but what
>the heck is a floating bearing, Greg? I know about inserts
>and rollers, have poured and bored babbit bushes...
>Piston pins "float" in rod bushes - Unless they don't.
>Perhaps you are referring to dip/splash oiling schemes, as
>opposed to pressure lubrication?
>Anyway, would appreciate an elaboration.
>
>Thanks, Jack

There is clearance between the bearing insert and the housing, as well as
between the bearing insert and its journal. Sometimes, such a bearing is
pinned to the housing, as in turbochargers (if you have a copy of the
McInnes book, there is a write up on them, as applied to turbos, in there).

I believe that for a while, like in the late forties, floating rod bearing
were the supposedly "hot set-up" to have in a lakester flatty.

Didn't mean to be quite so sharp with the guy, but I really do HATE to see
so much mis-info coming from one source, all at once, with such an
authoritative tone! After all--there do seem to be some on the list who
really want to learn, and that kind of stuff does not help them at all!

As far as I am concerned--twenty years of maintaining farm equipment in the
way that most of that poor stuff gets taken care of is twenty years of
doing things wrong that the guy needs to un-learn!

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 15:35:17 1999
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Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 15:34:58 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: atomization enhancement
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At 01:21 PM 5/2/99 -0600, you wrote:

>
>BINGO, Dave!!
>
>Not to mention that this approach to fuel vaporization is thermodynamically
>far less efficient than ATOMIZATION! Using the latent heat of the fuel to
>cool the inlet valve, only so the valve can rob heat from the next power
>stroke to heat back up is a thermal inefficiency. Letting the latent heat
>of well atomized fuel make the compression process in the cylinder more
>nearly isothermal than adiabatic increases net power output by reducing the
>amount of work which the engine must do during the compression stroke!

I would presume thebest of both worlds for efficiency and power would be to
have injectors large enough to be able to inject all the fuel needed for
each stroke while the valve was open... Atomized fuel enters the combustion
chamber with the air.  Problems come at low RPM/load situations where the
injector is now too large to flow small quantities efficiently... How about
2 injectors per cyl, say a 10lb/hr and a 60 lb/hr, the 10 is used for idle,
the larger is slowly phased in as RPM/load increases to keep the total
injection squirt during the valve open time.
===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
   Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 15:57:19 1999
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Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 13:57:43 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid?
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>Howard, I don't know any data specific terms to the heater core failures my
>southern friends experienced (I'm in BC and they're all in the US) but it
>always went during a WOT dust off of some other hipo car.  They replaced
>initially w/ junkyard units, they failed, then with several Nissan units to
>find they failed under same circumstances.  My inexperienced slant at it is
>they had  a far higher volume/flow than that heater core would normally
>experience d/2 their rate of acceleration/ hybrid chevy systems/ and most
>likely the Nissan pumps weren't designed for this flow.  If not designed
>for that flow and given much higher flow than OEM it could create higher
>pressure than they were designed for given their has to be restrictions in
>the heater core system leading to this pressure increase (if flow isn't
>accomodated pressure goes up).  I agree w/ you that static pressure as you
>described shouldn't be a problem as the systems are very similar in design
>pressures and all related components were in as new condition.
>
Your evaluation is spot on, Ross!

If the higher pump head pressure from the larger, faster turning water pump
did not get the cores immediately, the pitting corrosion from the higher
flow velocities than intended would get them before too long.

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 16:19:23 1999
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To: DIY_EFI Mailing List <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Crank position sensor relocation query.
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From: Chris Wilson <chris@maximum-bhp.u-net.com>
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I am running a Honda Mugen Formula 3 single seater race engine,in a 
chassis that is much later than the power unit.I have an interference 
problem,with the exotically materialed and manufactured primary pipes 
fouling an adaptor on the back of the exhaust cam,that acts as a 
crank position sensor.The management system is Mugens own,and this 
adaptor is a coil,with a ferrite core.Across the end of the core 
rotates a drum,with an iron segment moulded into it.The whole 
assembly is mounted in a die cast casing,that bolts to the back of 
the exhaust cam housing.The primaries foul this casing,quite 
severely.I either remake the primaries,which are in titanium,and a 
work of art,or I move the crank position sensor.The inlet cam has the 
distributor,with a toothed wheel sender also within it,to give RPM 
readings,bolted to the back of the cam housing,opposite the position 
sender.Where does the team suggest I could get a crank position 
signal from? Any neat ideas? 

Thanks.


-- 
               Best Regards,
                        Chris Wilson.
              http://www.maximum-bhp.u-net.com



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 16:37:14 1999
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From: "Chris Wilson" <chris@formula3.demon.co.uk>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <199904290046.IAA06309@silver.hkabc.net>
Subject: Re: Toyota management mod limitations??
Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 21:42:56 +0100
Organization: Gatesgarth Racing Developments
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----- Original Message -----
From: WILMAN <wilman@hkabc.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Friday, April 30, 1999 1:38 AM
Subject: Re: Toyota management mod limitations??


> Try gems@gems.co.uk. They do an " Implant" for Toyota ECU's which then
> allow them to be programmable.

OK,thanks,they are a UK firm,so handy for us.We will check this
out.Appreciative of the information,cheers.


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 17:19:44 1999
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From: William T Wilson <fluffy@snurgle.org>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: valve job question
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On Sun, 2 May 1999, Stowe, Ted-SEA wrote:

> In my younger days when doing valve jobs for customers cars, I would clean
> off the carbon that was on top of the cylinders. I used to rotate the engine
> around and bring the pistons up to tdc and whirl away with a drill bit
> mounted wire brush.

The problem with this is that it will drop little bits of carbon goop down
between the piston and the cylinder, where they will make things sad.  
This is not the end of the world, but it doesn't do it any good, either.

Cleaning the carbon deposits off of the piston isn't really all that
important because they just come right back when the engine runs the next
time.

Last time I had the head off an engine, I used a little scraper tool to
scoop all the gunk onto the center of the piston, where I can vacuum it
up.  No gunk in the cylinder.

> should I leave it alone, ?

You may as well, unless there's a whole bunch of it.


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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@idirect.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid?
Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 17:54:32 -0700
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>The pressure head which the water pump generates is proportional to the
>square of the pump rpm, and at , say, 5000 pump rpm, for a pump with an
>impeller the size of most water pumps, it would not be unreasonable to
>expect to see 25 or 30 psi of pressure in the water jackets in ADDITION the
>pressure from the radiator cap!! And if the thermostat restriction is
>removed, the water pump will cavitate due to not having enough NPSH at the
>resulting (higher flow at less developed head) point on its curve for that
>particular impeller speed!
>
>Regads, Greg
>




Greg,  what you say here is quite correct.   A couple of years ago, we
flogged a near stock BBC (with stock serpentine water pump) for several days
on a well equipped dyno.  One of the measured parameters was the post pump
water jacket pressure.  We were quite surprised to observe approximately
55psig of "head" (from a 15psig baseline) at 5000 engine RPM.  Post
examination of the data revealed the expected speed/pressure curve of a
generic  centrifugal pump.

Walt.


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 18:16:51 1999
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@idirect.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Need Fuel Injector Data
Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 18:15:32 -0700
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Take a peek at Saturn injector 17109717, from the 1.9Litre engine, or
17109718 from same.  They are both low impedance, and around 17 #/Hr @ 44
psig.  Good Luck!

Walt.





>A friend of mine and I are working on an unusual project.  We are adapting
a
>'93 Saturn ECM and two DIS modules to run a Continental O-200 aircraft
>engine.  The engine is 200 C.I. (3.3 L) 4 cylinder dual plug and should
make
>about 120 HP at about 2800 RPM.
>






From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 19:05:44 1999
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From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
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Ross Corrigan wrote:

> thanks again for all this feedback, I"m going to gather them up as a FAQ to
> post on my page eventually for us ZV8's.
> 
> FWIW, their Datsun heater cores were 20+ yrs old and functioning fine when
> they first went, no quality problems their.
Ross, what kind of car is this?  I ran SB Chevy (several, actually) in
a 240Z and never experienced a problem.  WOT dustoff??  When do you
need WOT?? ; )
Shannen


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Stowe, Ted-SEA wrote:
> 

> should I

> 
> spray some chemical thing on the top and leave it then wipe it all away ,
> then most likely leave some lubricant in the cylinders.

> 
> thanks, Ted Stowe
For about 8 bucks, you can get GM Top Engine Cleaner in a can.  Pour
some into each cylinder and allow it to sit overnight, then most of
the carbon will wipe off.  Avoid getting it on your hands, don't run
the car without changing the oil after the treatment.
Shannen


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William T Wilson wrote:
> 
> On Sun, 2 May 1999, Stowe, Ted-SEA wrote:
> 
> > In my younger days when doing valve jobs for customers cars, I would clean
> > off the carbon that was on top of the cylinders. I used to rotate the engine
> > around and bring the pistons up to tdc and whirl away with a drill bit
> > mounted wire brush.
> 

> 
> Cleaning the carbon deposits off of the piston isn't really all that
> important because they just come right back when the engine runs the next
> time.
Sounds like a tire shop I went to once.  "No need to clean the mud off
the wheel before we balance it.  It just gets muddy again anyway."
Shannen


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Subject: Re: Flame - Not (Tornado engine?)
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On Sun, 2 May 1999, Greg Hermann wrote:

> >
> >Oh, yeah. Continental has an interesting policy on parts prices.
> 
> All true. The Argentinian Kaiser plant in Cordoba came up with some revised
> rods along with the twelve port head. The car you would find such a beast
> in was called a "Torino"--but not at all like a Ford by the same name. It
> was based on the late sixties Rambler American body tub, but had an outer
> skin done by Pinin Farina. It also had IRS, and about 8 inches of wheel
> travel at each corner, and a five speed gear box which was built under
> license from ZF.
> 
> Note the rather low engine speed for the peak power on the Torino version
> of the Tornado engine--this speaks to Jim's comments about the Continental
> block, even with far better rods installed. Scary to think how much power
> they could have made with a stronger block and crank and some more revs and
> 48 mm in place of 45 mm Webers!
> 
Continental also mfrd an inline 6 cylinder, pushrod, 12 port 7 main
industrial engine. The only one I ever saw was in a Trackmobile. Delivered
new with the governor not working. It never popped, and it wasnt for lack
of trying. Could make it sound just like a good, strong SBC going thru
the traps...If they had combined short block and cylinder heads...


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Howard Wilkinson wrote:
> 
> Greg:
>     I've personally seen irrigation pump motors run on propane over
> 10K hrs.  This is a considerably different environment than a farm
> truck.
>  It is unfortunate that the Holly,
> Motorcraft, and Autolight carb familys used neoprene diaphragms in
> accelerator pumps and in power valves.... they don't like today's gas
> at all.
There's a simple modification for Holley carbs that prevents power
valve damage due to backfire, and the pump diaphragms can be replaced
without complete o'haul.

>     Personally I feel that of the 4 bbl carbs available, the plain old
> Quadrajet would have had the most potential of any of them if they had
> only made replaceable secondary orfices.... once these are worn
> there's nothing to be done. 

Around 1985 a company called "The Carburetor Shop" offered a kit
designed to replace the secondary metering jets.  Generally I see worn
rods, not jets.  Most common seems to be a "ring" worn around the rod
caused by the rods "rattling" in the stainless plates that make up the
jets.  

> I've built a puller and removed them, and
Puller?  I have a drill bit that I've ground to cut the aluminum carb
away from the jet, then a small pick easily pulls the exposed jet.

> I suppose you could manufacture a replacement, 

I pull the replacement jet from an unused Q jet.  I buy the carbs
cheap and strip them for parts.
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 20:06:24 1999
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Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs
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Your saying you've had the secondary metering rod orfices go bad?.
By how much?....
Never saw any worn enough that that worried me.
Finding the optimum opending for the secondary air valve was the PITA for
me.
Well right after digging up all the metering rod hangers, and many needles.
Then I built a jig for blueprinting the hangers..
Once ya got the idle jet, idle channel restrictor right then ya could play
with the primary idle bypasses. Then you just had to diddle with the primary
jets, and dancing needles (ecm content).
   Had one on a LG4 auto that ran 15.0s, and got 30+mph on the freeway.
Same metering also ran 13's on a 355 (crossfire manifold sorta)
Grumpy


> > Quadrajet would have had the most potential of any of them if they had
> > only made replaceable secondary orfices.... once these are worn
> > there's nothing to be done.
> Around 1985 a company called "The Carburetor Shop" offered a kit
> designed to replace the secondary metering jets.  Generally I see worn
> rods, not jets.  Most common seems to be a "ring" worn around the rod
> caused by the rods "rattling" in the stainless plates that make up the
> jets.
> > I've built a puller and removed them, and
> Puller?  I have a drill bit that I've ground to cut the aluminum carb
> away from the jet, then a small pick easily pulls the exposed jet.
> > I suppose you could manufacture a replacement,
> I pull the replacement jet from an unused Q jet.  I buy the carbs
> cheap and strip them for parts.
> Shannen



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 21:35:44 1999
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Not too exciting, but I started building the plenum for my Dodge 383
stroker EFI conversion.  So far, I have a plenum floor :)

http://xephic.dynip.com/dodge/dodge.html

---

Frederic Breitwieser

Xephic Technology
"Leadership in IT"
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Web: http://www.xephic.dynip.com
Voice: (203) 372-2707
Fax: (603) 372-1147



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 22:26:29 1999
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Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 20:49:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: High economy, was Fuel injection plugs
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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-> Van Dorne has built a CVT for the Williams F1 car that could handle
-> 700 hp.

 Probably the same CVT.

 70hp for 100,000 miles in a Subaru, or 700hp for 100 miles in a
Williams.

 Van Doorne has used several belt-type systems over the years, but they
all have sharp limits as to the amount of torque they can handle before
the wear rate goes through the roof.

 Lear pumped a lot of money into 'traction drive' (torus and roller)
variants during the 1960s, and even got a few of them installed in buses
for testing.  They did well, but in order to keep wear under control the
elements became huge - the reason they tested them in buses was because
they wouldn't *fit* in cars.

==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?
=================================== http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm
                                                                                                       

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From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Transplant
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-> Floating rod bearings too?

 Hell, no!  This is a late-model motor - 1953.  Uses ordinary snap-in
shell bearings.  Even has a distributor on a stick instead of the crab
distributor driven off the cam snout.
                                                                                                               

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Hello all,

I just stumbled on this list. I've got a question I'm hoping someone can =
answer for me.

I'm converting a '59 Mercedes Unimog to multiport EFI. I've got a Ford =
throttle position sensor (part # E45F-9B989 AA 4M01C) but the lugs seem =
to be 90 degrees out of wack. Is there a similar sensor that would work =
for me? The air door is a 65 mm Edelbrock/BBK unit intended for a '95 =
Mustang V8 if that helps.

Thanks everyone.

Cheers, Greg   "20th century 'mog"
'59 Unimog

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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hello all,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I just stumbled on this list. I've got a question =
I'm hoping=20
someone can answer for me.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I'm converting a '59 Mercedes Unimog to multiport =
EFI. I've=20
got a Ford throttle position sensor (part # E45F-9B989 AA 4M01C) but the =
lugs=20
seem to be 90 degrees out of wack. Is there a similar sensor that would =
work for=20
me? The air door is a 65 mm Edelbrock/BBK unit intended for a '95 =
Mustang V8 if=20
that helps.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks everyone.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Cheers, Greg&nbsp;  "20th century 'mog"</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>'59 Unimog</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 23:06:45 1999
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From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: Re: valve job question
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>off the carbon that was on top of the cylinders. I used to rotate the engine
>around and bring the pistons up to tdc and whirl away with a drill bit
>mounted wire brush.
>
>
>nowadays I wonder if all it did was make the piston top pretty and introduce
>lots of debris into the engine especially the cylinder walls, creating years
>of wear in minutes.

Like you i've been known to do the same thing with the drill bit mounted
wire brush whilst the head is off (on my own motors), just filling in time
i guess and more than anything making it look shmick for any one who comes
by :P

when I do I simply make sure that I have someone else holding the
compressed air across the top of the piston at the same time, and rags down
the adjacent cylinders.  generally most of the debris gets blown away, and
any that is down the gap can be blown out with the compressed air.

When you rotate that piston to the bottom again, just carefully wipe up the
bore with a clean rag, that will get any lingering debris.

If you are really concerned, just turn the engine over by hand a couple
more times, and look for any more being dropped by the piston as it goes
down the bore.

just my thoughts :)

One thing i do think it can help with is a high compression engine pinging,
because (for a short time) there is no carbon deposits to stay hot enough
to ignite the fuel/air.

again just my thoughts, and some observation...

cya


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References: <01be9645$9ee88160$67930ccf@owlymcn.net.mcn.net> <372CE1D3.F57CC018@grolen.com> <000901be94f8$d9a322e0$72198fd1@nacelp>
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> Your saying you've had the secondary metering rod orfices go bad?.
> By how much?....
> Never saw any worn enough that that worried me.
> Finding the optimum opending for the secondary air valve was the PITA for
> me.
> Well right after digging up all the metering rod hangers, and many needles.
> Then I built a jig for blueprinting the hangers..
> Once ya got the idle jet, idle channel restrictor right then ya could play
> with the primary idle bypasses. Then you just had to diddle with the primary
> jets, and dancing needles (ecm content).
>    Had one on a LG4 auto that ran 15.0s, and got 30+mph on the freeway.
> Same metering also ran 13's on a 355 (crossfire manifold sorta)
> Grumpy
The electronic Q's just aren't that common.  I've only worked on a
handful of them.  I was told by a GM Training Center guy "just throw
it out and get a Holley" when I was in college.  Wish I'd known ya
then, I needed something to come back with.

Secondary jets... I've changed the later style to the early ones.  The
early ones look more like a cup than a stamped orifice.  The height is
a little different, I was playing around.  In the beginning I had some
silly notion of using replaceable jets.  I've mostly seen the rods
wear enough to be a problem, but I've pulled a couple orifices that
were worn to an oval in a 1 ton field service truck. Lotsa fuel at
WOT, looked like a diesel.  Good thing I saved the drill bit.

On my own stuff, I try to find a carb without the idle air bushings. 
These also usually have larger holes for the mixture screws.  Try to
simplify things a bit.  Ever run into a hanger with one arm at a very
different height?  I've gotten a few, don't know what caused it.  Each
one was causing a pop from the secondary, got to be the first thing I
looked for.

30 mpg, that's great.  I thought I was doing well to get 18 from the
455 in the Monte.  Neat thing, was 18 with 2.26 rear gear, still 18
with 3.08 gear.  Runs out of cam with 3.08 though.  I heard about your
"carbfire" manifold.  I never tried that with mine, didn't know I
could remove the extra casting.  Still love the crossfire setup, way
underrated.
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 23:50:34 1999
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Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 21:38:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Transplant - Bearings
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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-> Please explain the term "floating rod bearings"......... I've
-> never heard it before...... The only "floating rod bearings" I've
-> experienced are those which spin between the bearing and the
-> rod.......... Definitely a bad deal.... forshadows doom!

 Back in the 1930s many engines used bearings that were cast directly
onto the rod or block surfaces and machined or scraped to size.  The
bearing material was an alloy called Babbitt, (there were actually a
number of different Babbitt alloys) and the resulting bearings were
referred to as "babbitt bearings."

 Cast babbitt bearings were relatively time-consuming to make, so as
labor prices went up they became less cost-effective.  It was also found
that thinner bearings could hold up to load better than thick bearings.
Many engines began using "shell" or "insert" bearings - thin strips of
steel with a thin layer of bearing material - Babbitt alloy,
lead/silver, etc. - cast or laminated in place.  These bearings were
normally a tight fit in their housings; in fact, the OD of the bearing
was usually slightly *larger* than the housing; the difference is called
"crush" and is what keeps the bearing from spinning in the housing.
These types of bearings are in common use today.

 Ford went to an insert bearing on the flathead, but the rod bearings
were strange - they were babbitted on both sides, and floated in between
the crankshaft and rod.  Later they went to conventional interference
fit bearings.  The hot-rodders of the day claimed there was little
difference between the floating and interference bearings.  I've found
no detailed technical information on why Ford chose to do the floating
bearings instead of interference bearings, or why they changed.  I
suspect it had something to do with cost, as the flathead V8 was
rigorously designed down to a price.

==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?
=================================== http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm
                                                                                                               

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  2 23:50:50 1999
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Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 22:09:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Espen's Reed Valves
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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-> cam to get variable duration and the reed valves would take care of
-> the blowback problem at the low end......    At least a first thought

 Alfa Romeo built some engines like that 20 years ago.  There were also
some stationary engines using reed valves at the beginning of the
century.

 The Alfa setup let them run a long duration cam without confusing the
carburetor with reversion pulses or contaminating one cylinder's intake
charge with another's exhaust coming through on overlap.  It looked like
a fine idea to me, and I have no idea why they dropped it.
    

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From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Flame - Not
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-> cyl also.  Then there's the 348/409 Chebby which has valves in head
-> but no combustion cchamber cast in.

 Just like the 430/462 Ford, or the Mercedes 300, or...
                         

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Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 22:28:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: atomization enhancement
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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-> There has been some recent research that indicates the best
-> atomization occurs when the exhaust hits the puddled fuel behind the
-> intake valve when the valve opens.

 1) you're talking about a pretty small amount of fuel here, which is
    supposed to be in vaporized or fine droplet form anyway

 2) that valve is hopping up and down pretty-damned-quick, even at idle.
    Not much chance for puddling there.

 3) there's one hell of a lot of turbulence in that intake port, both
    from the valve's movement on and off the seat and from charge
    reversion during overlap, not to mention turbulence from the other
    cylinders on a common manifold.


 On an alcohol-burning Chevy in a sprint car, bogged down coming out of
a corner, I could believe in fuel puddling on the back of the intake
valve.  In almost anything else, it's "show me" time.

==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?
=================================== http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm
                                                                 

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Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 22:31:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Direct Injection - Stratified
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-> Any time a device that restricts flow is introduced into the path of
-> air and fuel, power is reduced.  A pre-chamber is such a device and
-> such an engine will lose efficiency compared to an open chamber
-> design.

 A prechamber doesn't necessarily have to restrict flow.  It can be *in
addition* to normal flow, as was used in various Japanese automobile
engines a few years ago.

==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?
=================================== http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm
                  

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 00:56:29 1999
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From: "Howard Wilkinson" <owly@mcn.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 22:03:17 -0700
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Bruce:
    The "spreadbore" (I believe that's the term) design of the
Quadrajet results in the secondarys contributing to normal driving far
more than on carbs with equal primarys & secondaries.  As a result a
little bit of wear in these rods or orfices makes a big difference in
performance.  I could show you quite a number of Quadrajet carbs with
visibly egged out secondary orfices.... These are 100k+ carbs, and I
just throw them away and find a good one.  Unfortunately I've found
that the factory "rebuilts" often have this same problem.  Perhaps as
I deal more in pickups and trucks than in cars, the is some difference
in the operating environment which accounts for the problem...... Who
knows.   I just know that if I have one that doesn't work, it nearly
always turns out to have egged secondary jets.        H.W.

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, May 02, 1999 7:28 PM
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs


>
>Your saying you've had the secondary metering rod orfices go bad?.
>By how much?....
>Never saw any worn enough that that worried me.
>Finding the optimum opending for the secondary air valve was the PITA
for
>me.
>Well right after digging up all the metering rod hangers, and many
needles.
>Then I built a jig for blueprinting the hangers..
>Once ya got the idle jet, idle channel restrictor right then ya could
play
>with the primary idle bypasses. Then you just had to diddle with the
primary
>jets, and dancing needles (ecm content).
>   Had one on a LG4 auto that ran 15.0s, and got 30+mph on the
freeway.
>Same metering also ran 13's on a 355 (crossfire manifold sorta)
>Grumpy
>
>
>> > Quadrajet would have had the most potential of any of them if
they had
>> > only made replaceable secondary orfices.... once these are worn
>> > there's nothing to be done.
>> Around 1985 a company called "The Carburetor Shop" offered a kit
>> designed to replace the secondary metering jets.  Generally I see
worn
>> rods, not jets.  Most common seems to be a "ring" worn around the
rod
>> caused by the rods "rattling" in the stainless plates that make up
the
>> jets.
>> > I've built a puller and removed them, and
>> Puller?  I have a drill bit that I've ground to cut the aluminum
carb
>> away from the jet, then a small pick easily pulls the exposed jet.
>> > I suppose you could manufacture a replacement,
>> I pull the replacement jet from an unused Q jet.  I buy the carbs
>> cheap and strip them for parts.
>> Shannen
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 01:05:47 1999
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From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Transplant - Bearings
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On Sun, 2 May 1999, Dave Williams wrote:

> 
> -> Please explain the term "floating rod bearings"......... I've
> -> never heard it before...... The only "floating rod bearings" I've
> -> experienced are those which spin between the bearing and the
> -> rod.......... Definitely a bad deal.... forshadows doom!
> 
>  Ford went to an insert bearing on the flathead, but the rod bearings
> were strange - they were babbitted on both sides, and floated in between
> the crankshaft and rod.  Later they went to conventional interference
> fit bearings.  The hot-rodders of the day claimed there was little
> difference between the floating and interference bearings.  I've found
> no detailed technical information on why Ford chose to do the floating
> bearings instead of interference bearings, or why they changed.  I
> suspect it had something to do with cost, as the flathead V8 was
> rigorously designed down to a price.
> 
I have run across a set of used boxed rods for a 354 Chrysler hemi that
were modified to use floating rod bearings. These were used in a fueler.
Ford also used this style of rod bearing in the GAA and GAF V8 tank
engines. Whether they were also used in the original V-12 A/C engine
I don't know. Maybe this is like the offset versus fork-and-blade con rod
designs, where costs seemed to dictate the winner but there does not seem
to be any documentation on tests etc.


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 02:17:44 1999
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Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 23:18:06 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ross Corrigan <zxv@istar.ca>
Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid?
In-Reply-To: <372CD801.133DC730@grolen.com>
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At 06:56 PM 5/2/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Ross Corrigan wrote:
>
>> thanks again for all this feedback, I"m going to gather them up as a FAQ to
>> post on my page eventually for us ZV8's.
>> 
>> FWIW, their Datsun heater cores were 20+ yrs old and functioning fine when
>> they first went, no quality problems their.

Shannen wrote:
>Ross, what kind of car is this? 

Mine's a 280ZX, theirs were a 240Z and a 280ZX. 

 I ran SB Chevy (several, actually) in
>a 240Z and never experienced a problem.  WOT dustoff??  When do you
>need WOT?? ; )

 hard to tag 10's or 11's w/o WOT they found;^) I only need it long enough
to prove to the passenger they can't grab that C note taped to the dash;^)
Funny you say that, a camaro guy was talking about testing a certain tranny
in 4th or similar at WOT and the datsun V8 guy said he couldn't stay at WOT
long enought to test much of anything 'cept his nerves;^)

{wide open throttle till you see God and then lift}
Ross (dreaming again ) C

Any pics or writeups of your Z8's??  I'm starting a collection of web info
to supplement a friends webpage

http://www.whit.org:80/jcaudle/

I always enjoy reading and viewing others rides to see what they've done
etc, better than any car mags IMO;^)

Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada 

 '80 327ZX   IZCC#255, Edmonton Z-car Club #44, British Columbia ZCR        
Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the
straights

mailto:zxv@istar.ca     *New ICQ # 11549358
http://home.iSTAR.ca/~zxv/index.shtml
http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg    where a
Z belongs

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 02:22:16 1999
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From: bob@bobthecomputerguy.com (Robert Harris)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: atomization enhancement
Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 06:21:07 GMT
Organization: Bob - the Computer Guy
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Its not.  The back side of the intake valve under medium load can exceed 600F
( Vizard ) and this is one of the reasons that simply ceramic coating the face
of the intake can drop the charge temperature 60 degrees or more.  It has long
been used in constant flow systems like the hilborn to greatly aid
accelerations.  The hot valve simply transfers its heat to the fuel.   Member
that the intake valve has just been exposed to 360 degrees of intense heat
during combustion and exhaust by simply being in the chamber.  



Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 12:21:01 -0400
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: atomization enhancement

At 10:10 AM 5/2/99 -0400, you wrote:
>There has been some recent research that indicates the best atomization
>occurs when the exhaust hits the puddled fuel behind the intake valve when
>the valve opens.  Atomization of fuel as it leaves the injector is not
>terribly important.

Yes, but that's not atomization, that's vaporization... and if it's caused
by the exhaust hitting the puddled fuel, that means it's being blown back
into the intake runner causing intake dilution and fuel distribution problems.
===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
   Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
===========================================================

------------------------------

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 07:21:45 1999
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Ross Corrigan wrote:
> 
> At 06:56 PM 5/2/99 -0400, you wrote:
> >Ross Corrigan wrote:
> >

> 
> Any pics or writeups of your Z8's??  I'm starting a collection of web info
> to supplement a friends webpage

Maybe I've got some entertaining stories, but that's about it.  Only
other thing I've got left is the 240Z emblem from the hatchback.  Had
a folder full of stuff that went with the car.  

Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 07:51:24 1999
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Subject: 747 for timing only
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Did the BIN for the 747 ignition only setup get posted to the incoming
directory?  If not, can someone forward a copy to me?  
Thanks.
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 08:02:39 1999
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 08:01:53 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Emulators
Cc: gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Hello all,
The emulator board Beta order is being sent off this morning.  Files have
been transferred and the Money Order will be sent here shortly.
The PCB house says 3-4 weeks (Without almost doubling the price... this is
standard delivery) and when I receive them, they will be shipped right out.
 Hopefully, everything will run smoothly, Gerber files have all they need
etc... I'm a bit pre-occupied right now as my son was kidnapped on Wed,
4-28-99.
I'll let everyone know when I have a ship date from the PCB house.
Thanks,
Dave

===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
   Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
===========================================================

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From: "CLsnyder" <claresnyder@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <008e01be9293$8529a7a0$8b9dfea9@gbclark.com> <004f01be92ab$4bdead20$4e198fd1@nacelp> <372A5640.D2D9A214@grolen.com> <372A67B8.9AA47370@arm.com> <372A9B54.FAAC8F18@grolen.com>
Subject: Re: Need Fuel Injector Data
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 08:16:11 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 1999 2:12 AM
Subject: Re: Need Fuel Injector Data


> There needs to be something to offset the forgotten birthdays,
> meetings, bill payments, appointments, etc.
> Thanks.
> Shannen
> Steve Ravet wrote:
> >
> > "swagaero".  Why do I remember stuff like that?

Not sure if the group is aware, but Steve, the founder of SwagAero died in a
plane crash this last year. Apparently a partner is carrying on.
> >
> > --steve
> >
> > Shannen Durphey wrote:
> > >
> > > There was a website which mentioned using Saturn parts for aircraft
> > > EFI conversions.  Can't quite remember the name, but I will post it
> > > when I do.  If you can't wait, the person who owned the site was a
> > > member of this list at one time.  His posts should be in the archives.
> > > Shannen
> > >
> > > Bruce Plecan wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Couple things come to mind.
> > > > GM 1987 Sunbird 2.0L 4 cylinder Turbo might be close, they are P+H.
> > > > www.lindertech.com    that's off the top of my head but they are in
gasoline
> > > > Alley
> > > > Indianapolis, IN.   Then RC Eng in SoCal..
> > > > How much info do you have about that ecms prom calibrations?.
> > > > If your point man is gone, you might need to reevaluate your
posistion.
> > > > Bruce
> > > >
> > > > > A friend of mine and I are working on an unusual project.  We are
adapting
> > > > a
> > > > > '93 Saturn ECM and two DIS modules to run a Continental O-200
aircraft
> > > > > engine.  The engine is 200 C.I. (3.3 L) 4 cylinder dual plug and
should
> > > > make
> > > > > about 120 HP at about 2800 RPM.
> > > > >
> > > > > Can anyone supply us with the information or give us an idea of
where we
> > > > can
> > > > > find a chart with the injector data?
> >
> > --
> > Steve Ravet
> > sravet@arm.com
> > Advanced Risc Machines, INC
> > www.arm.com
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 08:19:46 1999
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From: "CLsnyder" <claresnyder@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <01be9571$0dec8500$43930ccf@owlymcn.net.mcn.net>
Subject: Re: Transplant
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 08:20:23 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: Howard Wilkinson <owly@mcn.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: Transplant


> Jim:
>     Please explain the term "floating rod bearings"......... I've
> never heard it before...... The only "floating rod bearings" I've
> experienced are those which spin between the bearing and the
> rod.......... Definitely a bad deal.... forshadows doom!
> H.W.
>
Some engines were MADE with spinning inserts - bearing material on both
sides. Others use a loose cage rollers, with the rod being the outer race,
and the crank the inner. Obviously the latter are NOT pressure lubed.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Saturday, May 01, 1999 12:24 AM
> Subject: Re: Transplant
>
>
> >
> >
> >On Sat, 1 May 1999, Robert Harris wrote:
> >
> >> Nah - some insane whacko is building a unique engine from various
> scrap parts
> >> and ancient hot rod ideas. When it get's finished, it will be
> vaguely fordish
> >> and definitely unusual and maybe not too expensive.
> >>
> >Floating rod bearings too?
> >
> >
> >
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 08:32:20 1999
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References: <Pine.LNX.4.04.9905012051370.14380-100000@benatar.snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: Flame - Not
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 08:32:56 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@snurgle.org>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 1999 8:52 PM
Subject: Re: Flame - Not


> On Sat, 1 May 1999, Raymond C Drouillard wrote:
>
> > >of their cars and a number of early street rods.  Not only Ford used
> > >flathead engines though; I've got one in a '55 Jeep, which is an inline
> > >6-cylinder.
> >
> > I believe that they were used with the inline 4 cylinder Jeep engines,
> > also.
>
> Some of the old 4-cylinder Jeeps were flatheads, some were OHV.  As far as
> I know all modern Jeep engines are OHV or OHC.

Many old Jeep 4s wer "F" heads - intake in the head, exhaust in the block.
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 08:47:23 1999
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From: "CLsnyder" <claresnyder@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <v01510101b35191461186@[204.132.128.1]>
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 08:47:53 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Sunday, May 02, 1999 1:47 AM
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs


> >Greg:
> >    More power to you if you can accomplish that...... I happen to
> >live in the real world, and deal with old fashioned Ford & GM engines
> >such as the FE series and the Small block & big block GM engines.  The
> >comment on life expectancy is based on 20+ years of working on these
> >engines.
>
I had a '57 Fargo with the big (264.5)flathead six. At 249,000 miles I
headed from Ontario Canada to Tulsa Oklahoma. It used a quart of oil every
day at 65 - 70 mph. I sold the truck about 5 years later with the same
engine in it - and the guy who bought it put a 340 six-pack in so we sold
the engine to another guy for his '47 dodge coupe. Ih had the head replaced
once, and a valve job that I am aware of. The 264 had the forged crank.


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 09:24:56 1999
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@oh.verio.com>
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References: <Pine.A41.3.96.990502164141.21136A-100000@vcc11.vcc.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: Flame - Not (Tornado engine?)
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 08:09:05 -0400
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Wasn't one of these engines also used in the Checker Marathon before they
switched to Chevy?

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>

In this country--the Tornado engines only came with an eight port head
(individual exhausts, but two logged intakes), and obviously without the
good rods. It came in early sixties Gladiator pick-ups and Wagoneers. And,
as one might expect for a hemi head with a short duration cam with
aggressive valve lift rates, it got rather good mileage--about 17.5 mpg,
highway--- in a well tuned 4x4 Gladiator. But--no, it was not a high
revver.

> >
> Continental also mfrd an inline 6 cylinder, pushrod, 12 port 7 main
> industrial engine. The only one I ever saw was in a Trackmobile. Delivered
> new with the governor not working. It never popped, and it wasnt for lack
> of trying. Could make it sound just like a good, strong SBC going thru
> the traps...If they had combined short block and cylinder heads...


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 09:24:56 1999
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@oh.verio.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <616868.7.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us>
Subject: Re: Direct Injection - Stratified
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 08:16:59 -0400
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It doesn't have to be a big restriction, and the overall benefits may
outweigh the drawbacks but the combustion that takes place in the chamber is
restricted from delivering pull power.  You must be referring to the Honda
CVCC which was a good solution to emissions at the time.  My comment was
mostly directed to prechamber diesels where all the fuel is injected into
the prechamber.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>


>
> -> Any time a device that restricts flow is introduced into the path of
> -> air and fuel, power is reduced.  A pre-chamber is such a device and
> -> such an engine will lose efficiency compared to an open chamber
> -> design.
>
>  A prechamber doesn't necessarily have to restrict flow.  It can be *in
> addition* to normal flow, as was used in various Japanese automobile
> engines a few years ago.
>
> ==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 09:25:00 1999
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To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <616863.7.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us>
Subject: Re: Espen's Reed Valves
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 08:12:42 -0400
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My guess is the reeds restrict flow at  high rpm.  Look at the size of a
reed cage in a 125cc motorcycle engine.  The  whole cage is maybe 2 by 3
inches.

The really early engines used no cam for the intake valves, just a lightly
sprung poppet valve.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>


>
> -> cam to get variable duration and the reed valves would take care of
> -> the blowback problem at the low end......    At least a first thought
>
>  Alfa Romeo built some engines like that 20 years ago.  There were also
> some stationary engines using reed valves at the beginning of the
> century.
>
>  The Alfa setup let them run a long duration cam without confusing the
> carburetor with reversion pulses or contaminating one cylinder's intake
> charge with another's exhaust coming through on overlap.  It looked like
> a fine idea to me, and I have no idea why they dropped it.
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 09:24:56 1999
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Subject: Re: atomization enhancement
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 08:31:37 -0400
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A "puddle" of fuel in this context can mean a cloud of droplets in the port.
The shock wave that hits this breaks up the drops into smaller ones.  Sure
it gets diluted, etc. but its the best we have for now and it does work
pretty well.  The only way to inject atomized fuel in a short period of time
is with a mechanical injection pump except maybe the stuff used in single
rail diesels.  Does anyone know what the single rail diesels use for
pressure and injectors?

One question I have is When does a SEFI system fire the injectors, during
the intake stroke or some other time?

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>


> There has been some recent research that indicates the best atomization
> occurs when the exhaust hits the puddled fuel behind the intake valve when
> the valve opens.  Atomization of fuel as it leaves the injector is not
> terribly important.
>
> Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
>
>



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A floating bearing is free to spin on either surface, the rod, or the
crank. Both the rods and the crank are surface for this, and the bearing
has load surfaces on both sides. Oiling is done with mulitple holes, and
groves. 

At 12:35 AM 5/2/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Pardon me for interrupting the spirited repartee, but what 
>the heck is a floating bearing, Greg? I know about inserts 
>and rollers, have poured and bored babbit bushes... 
>Piston pins "float" in rod bushes - Unless they don't.
>Perhaps you are referring to dip/splash oiling schemes, as 
>opposed to pressure lubrication?
>Anyway, would appreciate an elaboration.
>
>Thanks, Jack
>
>
>
Thanks, 
        Peter Hipson (founder, NEHOG)
        1995 White NA Hummer Wagon

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 10:31:25 1999
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From: bob@bobthecomputerguy.com (Robert Harris)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Direct Injection - Stratified
Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 14:30:46 GMT
Organization: Bob - the Computer Guy
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Contrary to public myth, there actually is more than one stratified charge
design - but then anyone who was not blindly prejudiced would have know that.

For Example - the Texaco /MANN design where the fuel is injected past a
sparking plug that is firing repeatedly.  Gets the best of both diesel for
economy and otto cause it can burn rich of stoic and great economy because it
can run WOT always and no denotation.  

Then there is the unscavenged "blind"prechamber  also known as a torch cell,
which is not involved in air flow.

The fuel scavenged prechamber ( the more common ) variant - which has fuel
shot thru it - kinda like the spark plug injector thingee that started this
thread.  Its not involved in air flow.

The air scavenged pre chamber ala Honda CVCC - which has a separate intake
valve ( very small ) and port and runner - again not interfering with flow -
Honda continued this design with a three valve head that had two intakes, one
exhaust and a cvcc valve.  Didn't seem to slow them down much.  Didn't seem to
have any negative impact on air flow or power or economy.

In fact, excepting some obscure diesel designs, none of the popular
pre-chambers is a device that is involved in the main air flow so they can't
possible introduce a restriction into the path of fuel or air.

The minor loss of theoretical peak thermal efficiency is greatly offset by the
vast increase in range of combustion, quality of fuel, and faster burning.

But hey - I must be a dumbshit - I only researched it extensively instead of
simply anally extracting some spurious so there comment.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 22:31:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Direct Injection - Stratified

- -> Any time a device that restricts flow is introduced into the path of
- -> air and fuel, power is reduced.  A pre-chamber is such a device and
- -> such an engine will lose efficiency compared to an open chamber
- -> design.

 A prechamber doesn't necessarily have to restrict flow.  It can be *in
addition* to normal flow, as was used in various Japanese automobile
engines a few years ago.

==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?
=================================== http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm
        

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 10:43:41 1999
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From: "Howard Wilkinson" <owly@mcn.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Espen's Reed Valves
Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 07:09:15 -0700
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Dave:
    I'm not sure if you are speaking of the many "hit & Miss" type
engines which used an ordinary valve with a light spring which was
sucked open during the intake stroke..... I presume this is what you
mean by "reed valve".....or was there some other form of reed valve
used?  A friend of mine has a number of these engines still in use.
H.W.

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Williams <dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, May 02, 1999 10:24 PM
Subject: Espen's Reed Valves



-> cam to get variable duration and the reed valves would take care of
-> the blowback problem at the low end......    At least a first
thought

Alfa Romeo built some engines like that 20 years ago.  There were also
some stationary engines using reed valves at the beginning of the
century.

The Alfa setup let them run a long duration cam without confusing the
carburetor with reversion pulses or contaminating one cylinder's
intake
charge with another's exhaust coming through on overlap.  It looked
like
a fine idea to me, and I have no idea why they dropped it.




From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 11:01:24 1999
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From: "Howard Wilkinson" <owly@mcn.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: injector firing rates
Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 08:06:18 -0700
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Can anybody tell me what the max practical firing rate for most of
these injectors is ..... how many time a minute or second....obviously
pulse width limits this, but at minimum pulse width what are the
limitations of the typical injector?             H.W.




From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 11:01:21 1999
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From: "Howard Wilkinson" <owly@mcn.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: valve job question
Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 08:03:11 -0700
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    An old trick which I will relate, but not advocate, is to run the
piston down to the bottom of the cylinder, and smear grease on the
cylinder wall above it.  You then run the piston up and the top ring
gathers the grease ahead of it on the way up.  You then perform you
piston cleaning chore with your wire brush while protecting the other
cylinders, etc, and blow or suck the surface clean when done.  Then
you crank the piston back down, and the grease with any crud that
found it's way down around the piston remains near the top of the hole
where you can wipe it out.
    This is a trick many of the old timers used, and it works, but I'm
sure it is not considered good form these days.             H.W.

-----Original Message-----
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, May 02, 1999 9:54 PM
Subject: Re: valve job question


>>off the carbon that was on top of the cylinders. I used to rotate
the engine
>>around and bring the pistons up to tdc and whirl away with a drill
bit
>>mounted wire brush.
>>
>>
>>nowadays I wonder if all it did was make the piston top pretty and
introduce
>>lots of debris into the engine especially the cylinder walls,
creating years
>>of wear in minutes.
>
>Like you i've been known to do the same thing with the drill bit
mounted
>wire brush whilst the head is off (on my own motors), just filling in
time
>i guess and more than anything making it look shmick for any one who
comes
>by :P
>
>when I do I simply make sure that I have someone else holding the
>compressed air across the top of the piston at the same time, and
rags down
>the adjacent cylinders.  generally most of the debris gets blown
away, and
>any that is down the gap can be blown out with the compressed air.
>
>When you rotate that piston to the bottom again, just carefully wipe
up the
>bore with a clean rag, that will get any lingering debris.
>
>If you are really concerned, just turn the engine over by hand a
couple
>more times, and look for any more being dropped by the piston as it
goes
>down the bore.
>
>just my thoughts :)
>
>One thing i do think it can help with is a high compression engine
pinging,
>because (for a short time) there is no carbon deposits to stay hot
enough
>to ignite the fuel/air.
>
>again just my thoughts, and some observation...
>
>cya
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 11:01:55 1999
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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 09:02:21 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: atomization enhancement
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>A "puddle" of fuel in this context can mean a cloud of droplets in the port.
>The shock wave that hits this breaks up the drops into smaller ones.  Sure
>it gets diluted, etc. but its the best we have for now and it does work
>pretty well.  The only way to inject atomized fuel in a short period of time
>is with a mechanical injection pump except maybe the stuff used in single
>rail diesels.

Or with an air boost.

 Does anyone know what the single rail diesels use for
>pressure and injectors?

The injectors are directly above the chambers, and are actuated by an extra
cam lobe/rocker arm. No idea what the pressure in the injector itself goes
up to when it gets actuated--but HIGH--Probably hydraulic tappet style
pressures. On a Cummins PT system (Pressure/Time) the fuel rail pressure
varies with engine speed/ load, as this pressure is what determines how
full the injectors get before getting activated by the cam. Up to maybe 300
psi in the rail. Changing the "button" in the Cummins fuel pump changes the
pressure /speed output curve of the pump, and thus changes the amount of
fuel injected at full load on a Cummins. (Not all Cummins B series
(pick-up) engines have PT injection. This is 855, KT, and triple nickel
stuff.)

On Jimmys, there is a rack the length of the head which varies injector
stroke, (adjusting the lash on the injector rockers and adjusting to
equalize the strokes of the injectors is the source of the term "running
the rack" or "running the overhead") and the fuel rail in the head is at
relatively constant pressure, maybe 150 psi?? But--again, the actual
injection pressure is on up there.

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 12:06:34 1999
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@oh.verio.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <372dacff.770149@smtp.uia.net>
Subject: Re: Direct Injection - Stratified
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:48:36 -0400
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Gee Robert, if all these engines are so good, why aren't they used by
anyone?  Maybe they are in the same vault with the Fish carburetor.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>


> Contrary to public myth, there actually is more than one stratified charge
> design - but then anyone who was not blindly prejudiced would have know
that.
snip



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 13:06:13 1999
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From: "Rudi Machilek" <rudi@vnet.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Flame - Not (Tornado engine?)
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 13:05:47 -0400
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Entire Toronado front drive assemble was also used in the GM Transmode RV.  As I recall, the carburetor was a Carter Thermo-quad that was prone to warping and leaking.  Would have loved an EFI set-up.  We loaded them down with gas analyzers and mini lab set-ups and drove them all over the US.  Pretty decent gas mileage but prone to overheating.  Another great idea not engineered thoroughly.

Rudi Machilek

>In this country--the Tornado engines only came with an eight port head
>(individual exhausts, but two logged intakes), and obviously without the
>good rods. It came in early sixties Gladiator pick-ups and Wagoneers. And,
>as one might expect for a hemi head with a short duration cam with
>aggressive valve lift rates, it got rather good mileage--about 17.5 mpg,
>highway--- in a well tuned 4x4 Gladiator. But--no, it was not a high
>revver.


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 13:08:20 1999
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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 12:08:18 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Gregory A. Parmer" <gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs
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> >    I'd love to see a gas engine with a 500K life in a farm truck, and
> >a bcsf below .35............. With the technology people are using
> >around here the service life I spoke of is realistic based on real
>...
> The 500K figure takes a good engine to begin with, and then some high tech
> tricks and quality parts on top of that. The engine I have started out with
> has a lengthy track record of running 10K hours on the heads, and 25 K
> hours on the bottom end, on natural gas, at about 80% load, 2400 rpm on
> well head irrigation pump applications.  And that--with "farmer"

I missed the beginning, but you guys are arguing for the sake of arguing
now. You both know that these 2 engines/scenarios are completely
non-comparable. Gasoline truck vs natural gas stationary unit. Haha.

Curiosity forces me ask what type of engine is this ex pumping unit?
Our LPG Olds 455 unit sings a sweet tune in that app, altho it is far from
efficient with today's low pressure irrigation.  The Continental flathead
unit sits with a hole in the block.

-greg


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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 13:45:09 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Barry Tisdale <btisdale@cybersol.com>
Subject: Injectors & harness
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I'm looking for a couple of injectors & connectors from a Syclone ('91 GMC port injected 4.3) for setting up a test rig.  Does any other vehicle use these port injectors & matching connectors?  I'm not likely to find a Syclone or Typhoon @ my local wrecking yard.......

Thanks - Barry

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 14:25:45 1999
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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 14:23:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@snurgle.org>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: valve job question
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On Sun, 2 May 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote:

> > Cleaning the carbon deposits off of the piston isn't really all that
> > important because they just come right back when the engine runs the next
> > time.
>
> Sounds like a tire shop I went to once.  "No need to clean the mud off
> the wheel before we balance it.  It just gets muddy again anyway."

Heh.  No, that's different, because the carbon deposits don't affect the
operation of the engine.  Really.  Unless there's so much of it that it
causes dieseling.

My suggestion is more akin to saying "no need to clean the mud off the
wheel before you rotate the tires."

:}


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 14:28:34 1999
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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 12:29:00 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: RE: Flame - Not (Tornado engine?)
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>Entire Toronado front drive assemble was also used in the GM Transmode RV.
>As I recall, the carburetor was a Carter Thermo-quad that was prone to
>warping and leaking.

And dissolving in some Pemex gasolines, at various, very inopportune times!

Would have loved an EFI set-up.  We loaded them down with gas analyzers and
mini lab set-ups and drove them all over the US.  Pretty decent gas mileage
but prone to overheating.  Another great idea not engineered thoroughly.

Think you might have the Jeep/Continental/TORNADO 230 cid OHC I-6 engine we
were talking about with the 455 Olds V-8 that was used in the TORONADO,
Rudi! :-)

Regards, Greg
>
>Rudi Machilek
>
>>In this country--the Tornado engines only came with an eight port head
>>(individual exhausts, but two logged intakes), and obviously without the
>>good rods. It came in early sixties Gladiator pick-ups and Wagoneers. And,
>>as one might expect for a hemi head with a short duration cam with
>>aggressive valve lift rates, it got rather good mileage--about 17.5 mpg,
>>highway--- in a well tuned 4x4 Gladiator. But--no, it was not a high
>>revver.



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 14:51:12 1999
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	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: valve job question
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:50:10 -0700 
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hmm well these are more like burned oil deposits, actually the more WD 40 I
spray on them the more I can seem to wipe them up. I will go get a can of
that GM top engine cleaner. sounds like a nicer thing to do.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	William T Wilson [SMTP:fluffy@snurgle.org]
> Sent:	Monday, May 03, 1999 11:24 AM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: valve job question
> 
> On Sun, 2 May 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote:
> 
> > > Cleaning the carbon deposits off of the piston isn't really all that
> > > important because they just come right back when the engine runs the
> next
> > > time.
> >
> > Sounds like a tire shop I went to once.  "No need to clean the mud off
> > the wheel before we balance it.  It just gets muddy again anyway."
> 
> Heh.  No, that's different, because the carbon deposits don't affect the
> operation of the engine.  Really.  Unless there's so much of it that it
> causes dieseling.
> 
> My suggestion is more akin to saying "no need to clean the mud off the
> wheel before you rotate the tires."
> 
> :}

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 15:31:00 1999
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 14:31:10 -0500
From: Thomas Martin <marttj@pcmail.css.mot.com>
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I have a decent contact at a local boneyard (he owns it!), what vehicles should I be
on the lookout for to find a 1227749 ECM?

He has a large stack of ECM's, and many 80's cars.

Thomas Martin


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 15:35:14 1999
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Subject: Re: Injectors & harness
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All GM TPI injectors use the same connector, as well as most ford.
Pep boys might even have them.
True Value does, but I don't have the number
Bruce

> I'm looking for a couple of injectors & connectors from a Syclone ('91 GMC
port injected 4.3) for setting up a test rig.  Does any other vehicle use
these port injectors & matching connectors?  I'm not likely to find a
Syclone or Typhoon @ my local wrecking yard.......
> Thanks - Barry



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 15:35:58 1999
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Has anyone retorfitted an older V8 (non LT1) with reverse cooling?

Is there any drawbacks to reverse cooling vs conventional?  It is worth the
mechanical rework to do?

I am curious to see why GM did it on the LT1, and from what I have gathered, dropped
it on the LS1.  Knowing GM, there MUST have been a good reason.

Thanks!
Thomas Martin


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 15:50:17 1999
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From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Flame - Not (Tornado engine?)
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On Mon, 3 May 1999, Rudi Machilek wrote:

> Entire Toronado front drive assemble 
> 
> >In this country--the Tornado engines

Two different critters...



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 15:53:07 1999
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----- Original Message -----
From: Thomas Martin <marttj@pcmail.css.mot.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 3:36 PM
Subject: Reverse Cooling?

Moroso actually used to sell a kit for doing that.
Trouble was it wouldn't double the HP, so was too much work.
Bruce


> Has anyone retorfitted an older V8 (non LT1) with reverse cooling?
>
> Is there any drawbacks to reverse cooling vs conventional?  It is worth
the
> mechanical rework to do?
>
> I am curious to see why GM did it on the LT1, and from what I have
gathered, dropped
> it on the LS1.  Knowing GM, there MUST have been a good reason.
>
> Thanks!
> Thomas Martin
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 15:54:25 1999
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 14:14:26 -0700
From: "Todd....!!" <atc347@c-com.net>
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http://www.interlog.com/~boni/fish/fish.html

Sincerely,

Todd....!!

Gary Derian wrote:
> 
> Gee Robert, if all these engines are so good, why aren't they used by
> anyone?  Maybe they are in the same vault with the Fish carburetor.
> 
> Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
> 
> > Contrary to public myth, there actually is more than one stratified charge
> > design - but then anyone who was not blindly prejudiced would have know
> that.
> snip



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 15:54:35 1999
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 14:40:00 -0700
From: "Todd....!!" <atc347@c-com.net>
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Hello People,

My name is Todd, I'm new to the DIY FI thread, but believe this e-mail
thread system is a heaven sent...

What is the easiest setup to use on a 450+ cube BB from scratch... in
order to put out at least what it does in it's carb'd form of 450+ HP,
future plans are to twin turbo the beast....

Ya'll are WAY more experienced with this kindof stuff.. I'd like ya'lls
input in this matter!

Any help is SO appreciated....!!

The engine is a built 440 cu in engine and I want to inject it with the
most efficient system available for the least expensive price... i.e.
already existing OEM parts, if possible....  Laptop programmable is
probably a must....

Thanks....

Todd....

P.S. - I plan on using an EEC-IV with aftermarket injectors and throttle
body because of the larger displacement and HP...

What do ya'll think?

Thanks again....



Barry Tisdale wrote:
> 
> I'm looking for a couple of injectors & connectors from a Syclone ('91 GMC port injected 4.3) for setting up a test rig.  Does any other vehicle use these port injectors & matching connectors?  I'm not likely to find a Syclone or Typhoon @ my local wrecking yard.......
> 
> Thanks - Barry


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 16:52:15 1999
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Espen's Reed Valves
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 22:50:28 +0200
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Hi!

I want to use a reed cage from a outboard two stroke engine or crosser
bike.
With carbon fiber reed pedals for minimum restriction,or boyesen
reeds.There is  little difference in max output from two stroke with
reedvalve and rotary valve.By using a hotter cam than you would do without
reeds,
I think you can have more hp at max and gobs of torque down low.I would be 
difficult to mount the reeds as close to the valves as possible, I think a
4 valver is most suited because of the two inlet runners making a easy
transition to the wide reed cage. Using a rotary file and file the two
runners 
together and mount the reed cage as the start of the intakemanifold.
Espen.
> Dave:
>     I'm not sure if you are speaking of the many "hit & Miss" type
> engines which used an ordinary valve with a light spring which was
> sucked open during the intake stroke..... I presume this is what you
> mean by "reed valve".....or was there some other form of reed valve
> used?  A friend of mine has a number of these engines still in use.
> H.W.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave Williams <dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Sunday, May 02, 1999 10:24 PM
> Subject: Espen's Reed Valves
> 
> 
> 
> -> cam to get variable duration and the reed valves would take care of
> -> the blowback problem at the low end......    At least a first
> thought
> 
> Alfa Romeo built some engines like that 20 years ago.  There were also
> some stationary engines using reed valves at the beginning of the
> century.
> 
> The Alfa setup let them run a long duration cam without confusing the
> carburetor with reversion pulses or contaminating one cylinder's
> intake
> charge with another's exhaust coming through on overlap.  It looked
> like
> a fine idea to me, and I have no idea why they dropped it.
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 17:15:00 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: Espen's Reed Valves
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----- Original Message -----
From: Espen Hilde <mwichstr@online.no>
Subject: Re: Espen's Reed Valves

Remember how expensive internal engine parts are.   If the reeds brake they
can raise hell inside an engine.
  They are good for just a very limited range, before they "peg" open....
To get enough reed area for a "big" engine to breath thru would be a huge
reed cage.
Bruce

> I want to use a reed cage from a outboard two stroke engine or crosser
> bike.
> With carbon fiber reed pedals for minimum restriction,or boyesen
> reeds.There is  little difference in max output from two stroke with
> reedvalve and rotary valve.By using a hotter cam than you would do without
> reeds,
> I think you can have more hp at max and gobs of torque down low.I would be
> difficult to mount the reeds as close to the valves as possible, I think a
> 4 valver is most suited because of the two inlet runners making a easy
> transition to the wide reed cage. Using a rotary file and file the two
> runners
> together and mount the reed cage as the start of the intakemanifold.
> Espen.
> > Dave:
> >     I'm not sure if you are speaking of the many "hit & Miss" type
> > engines which used an ordinary valve with a light spring which was
> > sucked open during the intake stroke..... I presume this is what you
> > mean by "reed valve".....or was there some other form of reed valve
> > used?  A friend of mine has a number of these engines still in use.
> > H.W.
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dave Williams <dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us>
> > To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> > <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> > Date: Sunday, May 02, 1999 10:24 PM
> > Subject: Espen's Reed Valves
> > -> cam to get variable duration and the reed valves would take care of
> > -> the blowback problem at the low end......    At least a first
> > thought
> > Alfa Romeo built some engines like that 20 years ago.  There were also
> > some stationary engines using reed valves at the beginning of the
> > century.
> > The Alfa setup let them run a long duration cam without confusing the
> > carburetor with reversion pulses or contaminating one cylinder's
> > intake
> > charge with another's exhaust coming through on overlap.  It looked
> > like
> > a fine idea to me, and I have no idea why they dropped it.



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 18:19:01 1999
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 3 May 1999 17:07:44 CDT
Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 17:07:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Direct Injection - Stratified
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059
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-> Gee Robert, if all these engines are so good, why aren't they used by
-> anyone?  Maybe they are in the same vault with the Fish carburetor.

 The stratified, lean-burn, and DI technologies produce higher levels of
oxides of nitrogen than conventional designs.  NOx is hard to deal with;
there are catalytic convertors that can handle *some* NOx, but not the
amounts a really fuel-efficient engine can put out.

 It comes down to a choice - do you want to use cheap smog control
technology, or do you want maximum fuel efficiency?  Note DIY isn't
necessarily concerned with smog.

==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?
=================================== http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm
                                                                               

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 18:41:15 1999
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 15:40:50 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Aaron Willis <darkmonahue@awwwsome.com>
Subject: Re: Espen's Reed Valves
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At 05:15 PM 5/3/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Remember how expensive internal engine parts are.   If the reeds brake they
>can raise hell inside an engine.
>  They are good for just a very limited range, before they "peg" open....
>To get enough reed area for a "big" engine to breath thru would be a huge
>reed cage.
>Bruce

	I see your point.  Does anyone have access top a reed cage from, say, a
500cc motocrosser?  That should flow enough air for the 60+ horsepower it
produces.  Is it too big to fit nicely into a typical intake port?  Say an
eight-cylinder engine, so eight times 60 = 480 horse capacity.  It seems
too simple to me, maybe somebody can help me out here?
	I understand that flow through a two-stroke engine cannot be compared
directly to that of a four-stroke, but am too lazy to do the figuring and
figured I'd offer this to the group as fodder...


	Aaron Willis
	ICQ #27386985
	AOL IM: hemiyota
	http://surf.to/garage-te51 Garage TE51 International

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 19:25:18 1999
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Subject: Re: Direct Injection - Stratified - FISH Carb Vault....??
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 16:25:45 -0700
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The real story behind these fishy carbs
http://www.syc.org/e/dennis27.htm

Rick



----- Original Message -----
From: Todd....!! <atc347@c-com.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 2:14 PM
Subject: Re: Direct Injection - Stratified - FISH Carb Vault....??


> http://www.interlog.com/~boni/fish/fish.html
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Todd....!!
>
> Gary Derian wrote:
> >
> > Gee Robert, if all these engines are so good, why aren't they used by
> > anyone?  Maybe they are in the same vault with the Fish carburetor.
> >
> > Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
> >
> > > Contrary to public myth, there actually is more than one stratified
charge
> > > design - but then anyone who was not blindly prejudiced would have
know
> > that.
> > snip
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 20:16:28 1999
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The "hot ticket" for '89 '165 chips is supposed to be the ARAP.

>From one of Bruce's prior posts:  arap  4194  5.7  Auto  89  Vet

Anybody have an ARAP binary they could mail to me and/or upload to
/incoming?

Thanks!

--andrew


-- 
Andrew Gunnesch
sgi, onsite at Ford Motor Company
Voice:  248-848-4517    FAX:  313-441-6341
V-net: 327-4517

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 20:40:10 1999
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I may still have one from a 72 Evinrude 600 ( 650 ? ) cc 2 cylinder snowmobile in a
bucket.  If memory serves, the thing had 8 reeds and was 3  tall, 1 1/2 " wide and
2" deep, for each cylinder.  I can look for it if anyone wants specifics.

Chad


Aaron Willis wrote:

> At 05:15 PM 5/3/99 -0400, you wrote:
> >Remember how expensive internal engine parts are.   If the reeds brake they
> >can raise hell inside an engine.
> >  They are good for just a very limited range, before they "peg" open....
> >To get enough reed area for a "big" engine to breath thru would be a huge
> >reed cage.
> >Bruce
>
>         I see your point.  Does anyone have access top a reed cage from, say, a
> 500cc motocrosser?  That should flow enough air for the 60+ horsepower it
> produces.  Is it too big to fit nicely into a typical intake port?  Say an
> eight-cylinder engine, so eight times 60 = 480 horse capacity.  It seems
> too simple to me, maybe somebody can help me out here?
>         I understand that flow through a two-stroke engine cannot be compared
> directly to that of a four-stroke, but am too lazy to do the figuring and
> figured I'd offer this to the group as fodder...
>
>         Aaron Willis
>         ICQ #27386985
>         AOL IM: hemiyota
>         http://surf.to/garage-te51 Garage TE51 International





From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 21:00:08 1999
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From: "David Sagers" <dls2867@hotmail.com>
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 17:59:36 PDT
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Anyone know how to calculate CFM rates?  I was talking to the shop that's 
building the turbo set up for my chevy engine.  He said that at 15 lbs of 
boost each runner on a stock TPI will flow 600 cfm.  I think the stock 
runners are 1.25"  But 600 cfm sounds really high for such a small tube, 
even at 15 lbs of boost.



_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 21:23:10 1999
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CLsnyder wrote:

> >
> Some engines were MADE with spinning inserts - bearing material on both
> sides. Others use a loose cage rollers, with the rod being the outer race,
> and the crank the inner. Obviously the latter are NOT pressure lubed.
What engines used roller bearings?  What applications?
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 21:34:55 1999
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No, I haven't put it up there yet. I've been busy again, something
about finding a job. Did you know that there are people out there,
that insist on finding you a job? The nerve of some folks! Really 
does cut into the free time <g>.

I've been playing around with the aldl list, trying to have the
timing values output. I think I've got it, but it's raining today.

I promise that I'll get it there soon, I need to clean-up the bin
by removing the fueling changes that aren't being used.

BobR.

P.S> Shannen, I'm sending a copy of what I have... I'll post when
the final hit's incoming.


Shannen Durphey wrote:
> 
> Did the BIN for the 747 ignition only setup get posted to the incoming
> directory?  If not, can someone forward a copy to me?
> Thanks.
> Shannen



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 22:12:15 1999
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Subject: Re: Injectors & harness
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Wait, there's a catch.  If this has the same injector as used in the
later 4.3l Vortech engine, it's got a different connector. 
Barry, if the injector looks like a bug and is buried in the center of
a large, 2 piece manifold  you can find similar parts in Astrovans and
S-10s with the VIN W engine.
Shannen

Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> All GM TPI injectors use the same connector, as well as most ford.
> Pep boys might even have them.
> True Value does, but I don't have the number
> Bruce
> 
> > I'm looking for a couple of injectors & connectors from a Syclone ('91 GMC
> port injected 4.3) for setting up a test rig.  Does any other vehicle use
> these port injectors & matching connectors?  I'm not likely to find a
> Syclone or Typhoon @ my local wrecking yard.......
> > Thanks - Barry


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 23:01:20 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: Injectors & harness
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----- Original Message -----
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 10:02 PM
Subject: Re: Injectors & harness

The injectors I just bought out of a sy really look like the ones I put in
the Buick GN fuel rails.
Bruce

> Wait, there's a catch.  If this has the same injector as used in the
> later 4.3l Vortech engine, it's got a different connector.
> Barry, if the injector looks like a bug and is buried in the center of
> a large, 2 piece manifold  you can find similar parts in Astrovans and
> S-10s with the VIN W engine.
> Shannen
>
> Bruce Plecan wrote:
> >
> > All GM TPI injectors use the same connector, as well as most ford.
> > Pep boys might even have them.
> > True Value does, but I don't have the number
> > Bruce
> >
> > > I'm looking for a couple of injectors & connectors from a Syclone ('91
GMC
> > port injected 4.3) for setting up a test rig.  Does any other vehicle
use
> > these port injectors & matching connectors?  I'm not likely to find a
> > Syclone or Typhoon @ my local wrecking yard.......
> > > Thanks - Barry
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 23:19:58 1999
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From: "James Montebello" <jamesm@talarian.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Transplant
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 20:17:21 -0700
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> What engines used roller bearings?  What applications?
> Shannen

A great many engines use roller bearings.  The bottom ends
of most two-stroke engines are all roller bearings. 

A good many four-stroke motorcycle engines have also been made 
using rolling-element bottom ends.  Harleys use them, most
four-stroke singles, and quite a few large displacement fours
made by Suzuki and Kawasaki used rollers.  Even on engines
with plain main and big end bearings, rollers are typically
used at the ends of the crankshaft, and in the gearboxes.

Porsche made a few racing engines that used roller bearing
bottom ends in the '50s, and '60s. 

In all cases, the crankshafts are multiple pieces pressed
together around the bearings and one-piece rods.  For very
high-stress operation, these bits would be welded together.
If the crank needed to be rebuilt, the weld was ground off,
and the parts pressed apart.

Most of these engines are not low power applications, either.
The two-stroke GP machines made today produce in excess of
400hp/liter unsupercharged.  The big roller bearing Suzuki 
and Kawasaki engines are very popular in drag-bike applications.

james montebello


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 23:53:09 1999
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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 20:52:32 -0700 (PDT)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Injectors & harness
In-Reply-To: <031201be95da$736d3aa0$13198fd1@nacelp>
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My '92 6 cyl vortec 4.3 (vin W) has a single CPI injector (Central Port
Injector as describe in the factory service manual).  It is a single
injector with six flexible tubes coming off and special nozzles at the end
that maintain pressure in in the tubes when the injector not flowing.  The
nozzles have plastic clips that hold them into holes at the end of each
intake runner.

I thought the Syclone (vin Z?) actually had 6 injectors. 

Anyways, the CPI does inject at the port, but I haven't heard it called a
TPI injector. 

Tom

On Mon, 3 May 1999, Bruce Plecan wrote:

> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
> To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 10:02 PM
> Subject: Re: Injectors & harness
> 
> The injectors I just bought out of a sy really look like the ones I put in
> the Buick GN fuel rails.
> Bruce
> 
> > Wait, there's a catch.  If this has the same injector as used in the
> > later 4.3l Vortech engine, it's got a different connector.
> > Barry, if the injector looks like a bug and is buried in the center of
> > a large, 2 piece manifold  you can find similar parts in Astrovans and
> > S-10s with the VIN W engine.
> > Shannen
> >
> > Bruce Plecan wrote:
> > >
> > > All GM TPI injectors use the same connector, as well as most ford.
> > > Pep boys might even have them.
> > > True Value does, but I don't have the number
> > > Bruce
> > >
> > > > I'm looking for a couple of injectors & connectors from a Syclone ('91
> GMC
> > > port injected 4.3) for setting up a test rig.  Does any other vehicle
> use
> > > these port injectors & matching connectors?  I'm not likely to find a
> > > Syclone or Typhoon @ my local wrecking yard.......
> > > > Thanks - Barry
> >
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 23:56:06 1999
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 21:05:46 -0700
To: "Marc van der Vossen" <marc@vdvossen.cistron.nl>, efi@cardozo.org,
        diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Al Lipper <efi@cardozo.org>
Subject: ECU7 EFI project plans
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Marc, it is good to hear of your interest, as well as your experience with
th 80C552.  It sounds like you've done some nice work with it.  At the
present time, we have a relatively final version of the ECU7 schematic
(newer than the one on the web), as well as a completed PC board layout.
Unfortunately, it is expensive to have a small quantity of PC boards made
(close to $500), so I've been unable to move ahead until I can either find
a cheaper way to have them made, or find enough people to split the cost.
I'm planning to post the most recent version of ECU7 to the web, as soon as
I can get some more web space.  The schematic and PCB were done with OrCAD
386+, so if you have compatible software, I'd be happy to e-mail you the
original source files.

We've been looking for someone with 80C552 experience for a while, so
hearing from you is very fortuitous.  Even better, it sounds like you've
already done some of what we need.  The first thing is the writing of a
.HEX loader that will allow an intel .HEX file received over the serial
port to be loaded into the 5v flash memory.  The second thing is for the
old assembly routines (EFI02.ASM) that worked on ECU6, running on the Intel
80C51GB to be converted to use the 552.  The 80C51GB used PCA's where the
552 has its own capture/compare timers.  Also, the A/D converter read
routines need adaptation.  It's really a rather simple file, and hopefully
the documentation is clear.  Once we can get one of these built and
working, I expect progress can be swift.

Thanks for all of your help, Marc - it's good to have you on the project.

		Al
efi@cardozo.org


At 09:57 PM 5/3/99 +0200, you wrote:
>Hi All,
>
>With interest I read your page about your DIY-EFI. I was reading the
>revision 7 files and noticed you will be using the 80C552. Although I do not
>think these are best for EFI, I do think they will work well. I have made my
>own 80C552 board and it has some nice features. Like flash programming (on
>board), downloading .HEX files to the board for execution (without burning
>them in flash). I am very interested in EFI and have quite some knowledge in
>assembler programming the 80C552. I would be very interested in cooperating
>with you. If you are also interested, can you please mail me back with the
>status of revision 7 and a short to-do list ?
>
>Thanks in advance and keep up the good work
>
>Marc
>marc@vdvossen.nl
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  3 23:59:58 1999
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 22:51:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Transplant
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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-> What engines used roller bearings?  What applications?

 Bugatti - all the straight eights were ball and roller bearing

 Alfa Romeo - many of the prewar engines

 Lots of airplanes and motorcycles
                                                                                                                        

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 00:04:35 1999
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From: "Howard Wilkinson" <owly@mcn.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Fish Carb.... not dead yet?
Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 21:07:24 -0700
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A friend of mine used to own one of the original fish carbs, and I've
had it apart and examined it.  It was tried on a number of vehicles,
and the results were uniformly dissapointing..... and not for lack of
trying.  I personally put the fish in the same category as the Borke
engine and many other wonderful technologies over the years that
didn't work.........  An old friend of mine tells of having all sorts
of gas savers, magnets on gas lines, etc on his car, but of having to
remove them due to the inconvenience of having to stop every 50 miles
or so and siphon off surplus gas.......   If you believe that one,
I've got some land in Florida you might be interested in ;-)   H.W.



From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 00:08:22 1999
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From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Injectors & harness
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At 08:52 PM 5/3/99 -0700, you wrote:
>My '92 6 cyl vortec 4.3 (vin W) has a single CPI injector (Central Port
>Injector as describe in the factory service manual).  It is a single
>injector with six flexible tubes coming off and special nozzles at the end
>that maintain pressure in in the tubes when the injector not flowing.  The
>nozzles have plastic clips that hold them into holes at the end of each
>intake runner.
>
>I thought the Syclone (vin Z?) actually had 6 injectors. 
>

It does

>Anyways, the CPI does inject at the port, but I haven't heard it called a
>TPI injector. 
>

The TPI  just means tuned port injection... CPI is actually TPI, as the CPI
manifold is tuned for specific torque peaks at 2 different RPM instead of
just one...Air door closed (low RPM) and one with it open (high RPM).
===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
   Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 00:58:35 1999
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Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 00:48:44 -0400
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
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Subject: Re: Injectors & harness
References: <3.0.1.32.19990503134509.006ba2f8@smtp.cybersol.com> <00c001be959c$240fbac0$13198fd1@nacelp> <372E5530.62E8589A@grolen.com> <031201be95da$736d3aa0$13198fd1@nacelp>
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Ok.  Then the 4.3W and the Syclone don't share injectors.  The W
engine has one injector connected to 6 poppet nozzles, each through a
hose.  Looks a little like a deformed spider.
Shannen
Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
> To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 10:02 PM
> Subject: Re: Injectors & harness
> 
> The injectors I just bought out of a sy really look like the ones I put in
> the Buick GN fuel rails.
> Bruce
> 
> > Wait, there's a catch.  If this has the same injector as used in the
> > later 4.3l Vortech engine, it's got a different connector.
> > Barry, if the injector looks like a bug and is buried in the center of
> > a large, 2 piece manifold  you can find similar parts in Astrovans and
> > S-10s with the VIN W engine.
> > Shannen
> >
> > Bruce Plecan wrote:
> > >
> > > All GM TPI injectors use the same connector, as well as most ford.
> > > Pep boys might even have them.
> > > True Value does, but I don't have the number
> > > Bruce
> > >
> > > > I'm looking for a couple of injectors & connectors from a Syclone ('91
> GMC
> > > port injected 4.3) for setting up a test rig.  Does any other vehicle
> use
> > > these port injectors & matching connectors?  I'm not likely to find a
> > > Syclone or Typhoon @ my local wrecking yard.......
> > > > Thanks - Barry
> >


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 01:13:04 1999
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From: bob@bobthecomputerguy.com (Robert Harris)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Fish Carbs
Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 05:12:26 GMT
Organization: Bob - the Computer Guy
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Same reason as the valve in block L head "Flat Head" reigned supreme for 40
odd years.  Just because it is very good doesn't make it cheap - and to the
vast majority of the automotive purchasers cheap is the only virtue.  Never
confuse good with cheap - or you will buy Compak Packard Bell Hewlett Packard
Gateway Cyrix and AMD etc.


Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:48:36 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@oh.verio.com>
Subject: Re: Direct Injection - Stratified

Gee Robert, if all these engines are so good, why aren't they used by
anyone?  Maybe they are in the same vault with the Fish carburetor.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>


> Contrary to public myth, there actually is more than one stratified charge
> design - but then anyone who was not blindly prejudiced would have know
that.
snip

--

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 02:09:29 1999
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From: "Stowe, Ted-SEA" <StowT@PerkinsCoie.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: fuel line check valve reality check
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 23:08:27 -0700 
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howdy.

I am trying to find 2 'flapper' type, low threshold, fuel check valves for
my 72 xj6, my thought is to tie both fuel tanks together with a one way
valve in each line, then have that go to a 'T' then to the chev mechanical
pump. (I have a Chevy eng in it and I want to remove the old original
electric fuel pumps & related mess in the trunk.)

an email to Earl's got me a $50.00 price per valve, not including the
fittings. I called another place and got a price of $195.00 for a single
electric shut off valve, (I briefly thought of using 2 of them). this is a
low-tech daily driver, why are one way check valves & stuff so expensive ??
yikes ! is there some plain old ford/chev, one way check valve someplace ?

thanks, Ted.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 02:15:04 1999
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 23:14:50 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Aaron Willis <darkmonahue@awwwsome.com>
Subject: OT max economy, engine stress
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	I have been trying the "floor-it-in-high" driving technique for a tank or
two, and results appear promising, so far.
	My question for y'all is whether I ought to be concerned with what I have
always been told is very hard on an engine - asking it to do a lot of work
at very low RPM.  My car doesn't really "like" to be lugged below about
2000 RPM, depending on load.  It shakes and shudders if I load it down to
heavily, although it does continue to pull.
	Am I beating the bottom end out of the engine?

	Also curious about heating the fuel to improve economy.  Worth half a
damn?  Any words of encouragement or caution?


	Aaron Willis
	ICQ #27386985
	AOL IM: hemiyota
	http://surf.to/garage-te51 Garage TE51 International

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 02:31:19 1999
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Howard Wilkinson wrote:
> 
> A friend of mine used to own one of the original fish carbs, and I've
> had it apart and examined it.  It was tried on a number of vehicles,
> and the results were uniformly dissapointing..... and not for lack of
> trying.  I personally put the fish in the same category as the Borke
> engine and many other wonderful technologies over the years that
> didn't work.........  An old friend of mine tells of having all sorts
> of gas savers, magnets on gas lines, etc on his car, but of having to
> remove them due to the inconvenience of having to stop every 50 miles
> or so and siphon off surplus gas.......   If you believe that one,
> I've got some land in Florida you might be interested in ;-)   H.W.
You'd have better luck selling ocean front property in MT.
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 03:05:45 1999
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From: "Jackson, Trevor" <trevor.jackson@dsto.defence.gov.au>
To: "'gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
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Subject: 305 TPI and 808 ECM
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 16:35:30 +0930 
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I'm currently trying to help a friend get a 305 TPI engine running, but
without much success so far. I believe that the engine is from an 87 or 88
Camero auto (bought from a wrecked car), the wiring loom is from a manual
Camero, and the ECM we have is from the Australian Holden Commodore (which
from what I've read from the archives is the 1227808). 

I understand that the '808 ecm is more or less equivalent to the '165 ecm,
and so we should be able to use it OK. The problem we have is with the
Memcals. We have the Memcal that came with the ecm, which is a ASBX 9285
from the 307 engine that is used in the Commodores, and a Memcal from (we
think) a 89 Camero with a 305 TPI (EPROM AGYM 3493).

As yet we have been able to get the engine running using the 89 Camero
Memcal, but it does run (not very well though) using the Memcal from the
Commodore.

We think that the Memcal from the 89 Camero is not working because we do not
have a VATS signal to send to the ecm - I plan to build the circuit to
emulate that so that we can see if that is the problem. If this is the
problem, is the program/data from the AGYM 3493 EPROM suitable for this
engine, or do I need to get hold of a different EPROM image and program up
another EPROM?

BTW, can anyone tell me what is the correct EPROM image for an 87/88 305 TPI
engine?

I've only just discovered these mailing lists and am slowly making my way
through the archives. There is a mountain of info there - I just need to
find the relevant pieces.

regards

Trevor Jackson


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 04:39:35 1999
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Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 04:38:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@snurgle.org>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: OT max economy, engine stress
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On Mon, 3 May 1999, Aaron Willis wrote:

> 	My question for y'all is whether I ought to be concerned with
> what I have always been told is very hard on an engine - asking it to
> do a lot of work at very low RPM.  My car doesn't really "like" to be
> lugged below about 2000 RPM, depending on load.  It shakes and
> shudders if I load it down to heavily, although it does continue to
> pull.

If your engine is shuddering, you should downshift.

Some engines (most diesels, GM Lx1 series V8) will pull like mad more or
less from idle.  It really takes an effort to lug these engines.
Fortunately, the Trans Am and, I think, Camaro of recent years have an
"engine lugging solenoid" which forces you to shift into fourth gear at
about 20-25 mph. :}

The 3-cylinder engine in my Geo Metro has the world's strangest torque
curve, and doesn't mind being lugged at all.  For a small engine, this is
highly unusual, IMO.  Nevertheless, it's ready to go at 1500 RPM.  This
is, I'm sure, part of why it gets 45-50 MPG.  :}

> 	Am I beating the bottom end out of the engine?

Well, you aren't doing it any good.  Just don't lug the engine.  It serves
no purpose and, although most modern engines will put up with it (and a
variety of other abuses) without too much complaint, you accomplish
nothing by doing it, so don't.

> 	Also curious about heating the fuel to improve economy.  Worth
> half a damn?  Any words of encouragement or caution?

Useless on fuel injected engine, IMO.  May obtain some benefit on setup
where fuel is vaporized.  Fuel injection system atomizes fuel and hot fuel
will do nothing except (marginally) increase risk of detonation.


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 05:37:56 1999
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From: "Tom Bennett" <tcb123@qatar.net.qa>
To: "DIY_EFI" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Pintle Caps
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 12:25:56 +0300
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Hi All,
I have just received some new seals and caps for my Bosch injectors #0 280
150 164,
The question is, the original Pintle cap has a slightly smaller hole than
the new one, original stamped #3 new one #2.
Is this going to be a major problem if I use the new ones?
regards
Tom


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 05:44:57 1999
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Subject: alternative engines
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Univ. of Alabamba is working on a anti-gravity car.
Says could be ready within 10 yrs. 
Will not need fuel injection or conventional fuel as we know it.
There is a photo of a car airborne, but did not say if prototype.
article in this issue of  Discover Magazine. 
alex

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 07:09:04 1999
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Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 06:09:58 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Jim Zurlo <zurlo@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Direct Injection - Stratified
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Almost all large (>6 liters/cylinder) lean burn natural gas engines are
stratified charge.  They have a prechamber where fuel only is admitted.
The spark plug is located in the prechamber.  This allows the engine to run
much leaner (lambda = 2) than an open chamber engine.  For a given lambda
stratified charge does produce more NOx, but the prechamber allows the
engine to be run leaner where NOx emissions are lower.  Prechamber engines
have the best efficiency, topping out around 43% thermal efficiency now.
For the ultimate in low NOx emissions nothing beats a stoichiometric engine
with a three way converter.  There has been a renewed interest in direct
injection gasoline engines recently for improved fuel econonmy.  The only
sticking point is reducing the exhaust NOx emissions with a lean NOx
catalyst.   Lot's of people are working on that and there are solutions
(Selective Catalytic Reduction) but they are really expensive and require a
source of ammonia.  Not something you want to carry around in a vehicle.
Jim Zurlo
zurlo@execpc.com


At 02:30 PM 5/3/99 GMT, you wrote:
>Contrary to public myth, there actually is more than one stratified charge
>design - but then anyone who was not blindly prejudiced would have know that.
>
>For Example - the Texaco /MANN design where the fuel is injected past a
>sparking plug that is firing repeatedly.  Gets the best of both diesel for
>economy and otto cause it can burn rich of stoic and great economy because it
>can run WOT always and no denotation.  
>
>Then there is the unscavenged "blind"prechamber  also known as a torch cell,
>which is not involved in air flow.
>
>The fuel scavenged prechamber ( the more common ) variant - which has fuel
>shot thru it - kinda like the spark plug injector thingee that started this
>thread.  Its not involved in air flow.
>
>The air scavenged pre chamber ala Honda CVCC - which has a separate intake
>valve ( very small ) and port and runner - again not interfering with flow -
>Honda continued this design with a three valve head that had two intakes, one
>exhaust and a cvcc valve.  Didn't seem to slow them down much.  Didn't
seem to
>have any negative impact on air flow or power or economy.
>
>In fact, excepting some obscure diesel designs, none of the popular
>pre-chambers is a device that is involved in the main air flow so they can't
>possible introduce a restriction into the path of fuel or air.
>
>The minor loss of theoretical peak thermal efficiency is greatly offset by
the
>vast increase in range of combustion, quality of fuel, and faster burning.
>
>But hey - I must be a dumbshit - I only researched it extensively instead of
>simply anally extracting some spurious so there comment.
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 22:31:00 -0500
>From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
>Subject: Re: Direct Injection - Stratified
>
>- -> Any time a device that restricts flow is introduced into the path of
>- -> air and fuel, power is reduced.  A pre-chamber is such a device and
>- -> such an engine will lose efficiency compared to an open chamber
>- -> design.
>
> A prechamber doesn't necessarily have to restrict flow.  It can be *in
>addition* to normal flow, as was used in various Japanese automobile
>engines a few years ago.
>
>==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
>I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
>my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?
>=================================== http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm
>        
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 07:24:27 1999
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> Unfortunately, it is expensive to have a small quantity of PC boards made
> (close to $500), so I've been unable to move ahead until I can either find

If your design calls for a single sided or double sided PC board, there is a
product I saw at a tradeshow a year or two ago that you can plot your board using
a special tonor to contact paper, then rub the pcboard onto the copper clad
board, then etch.

I'll see if I can find the brochure and get more information... I had saved it
because it would facilitate my being able to make one-offs.  Since you posted the
pcboard routes on the ftp site... it might be a cheesy way of one making their
own boards.

I'll see what I can dig up.

---

Frederic Breitwieser

Xephic Technology
"Leadership in IT"
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Web: http://www.xephic.dynip.com
Voice: (203) 372-2707
Fax: (603) 372-1147



From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 07:50:52 1999
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Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 07:25:17 -0400
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From: "Peter D. Hipson" <mail@darkstar.mv.com>
Subject: Re: Transplant
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There were (aftermarket) roller bearings available for VW air cooled
engines (probably still are). 

At 09:13 PM 5/3/99 -0400, you wrote:
>CLsnyder wrote:
>
>> >
>> Some engines were MADE with spinning inserts - bearing material on both
>> sides. Others use a loose cage rollers, with the rod being the outer race,
>> and the crank the inner. Obviously the latter are NOT pressure lubed.
>What engines used roller bearings?  What applications?
>Shannen
>
>
>
Thanks, 
        Peter Hipson (founder, NEHOG)
        1995 White NA Hummer Wagon

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Subject: Re: Fish Carbs
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Ahh this might be a great time to bring up the triangle 
of truisms
                


          GOOD
            ^
           / \
          /   \
         /     \
         -------
   CHEAP        EASY


when any too are true the third must be false.


Jason
--
88 Wrangler - 155K miles and counting
258 I6, 4.0 head, Cherokee header, 2 1/2 exhaust with 
high flow cat & Flowmaster
GM TBI, Crane 260H Cam
TJ Fender Flares
http://home.att.net/~jweir
CNC 4X4 Member - http://cnc.4x4.org/
			
			
> Same reason as the valve in block L head "Flat Head" reigned supreme for 40
> odd years.  Just because it is very good doesn't make it cheap - and to the
> vast majority of the automotive purchasers cheap is the only virtue.  Never
> confuse good with cheap - or you will buy Compak Packard Bell Hewlett Packard
> Gateway Cyrix and AMD etc.
> 
> 
> Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:48:36 -0400
> From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@oh.verio.com>
> Subject: Re: Direct Injection - Stratified
> 
> Gee Robert, if all these engines are so good, why aren't they used by
> anyone?  Maybe they are in the same vault with the Fish carburetor.
> 
> Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
> 
> 
> > Contrary to public myth, there actually is more than one stratified charge
> > design - but then anyone who was not blindly prejudiced would have know
> that.
> snip
> 
> --

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 08:24:50 1999
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>           GOOD
>             ^
>            / \
>           /   \
>          /     \
>          -------
>    CHEAP        EASY

Good one Jason... good one.  I wonder how my twin-turbo 431 efi
stroker fits into this...

          unreliable
              ^
             / \
            /   \
            -----
    expensive    complex


ROFL


-- 

Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport CT 06606

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 08:24:39 1999
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GM went to it earlier than the LT1.  If you look at late 80's IROC's
TA's and vettes they should all be reverse flowed.  The reason as I can
recall was something to do with trying to control the head temps for
emmisions.  They were able to get around the need with the LS1 engine
and went back to the standard flow which I believe keeps the whole
system at a more uniform temp.  Bottom line still is that the gains
weren't high enough for anyone else to fool with it.

Thomas Martin wrote:
> 
> Has anyone retorfitted an older V8 (non LT1) with reverse cooling?
> 
> Is there any drawbacks to reverse cooling vs conventional?  It is worth the
> mechanical rework to do?
> 
> I am curious to see why GM did it on the LT1, and from what I have gathered, dropped
> it on the LS1.  Knowing GM, there MUST have been a good reason.
> 
> Thanks!
> Thomas Martin

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 08:38:29 1999
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From: Roy <spectric@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: atomization enhancement
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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> Hi all

  The Bosch single rail system being introduced   on
diesels uses a mechanical pump to generate a     fuel
rail pressure of around 1800 bar.  The injectors   are
triggered like petrol injection injectors by a  
signal from the ECU.

--- Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net> wrote:
> >A "puddle" of fuel in this context can mean a cloud
> of droplets in the port.
> >The shock wave that hits this breaks up the drops
> into smaller ones.  Sure
> >it gets diluted, etc. but its the best we have for
> now and it does work
> >pretty well.  The only way to inject atomized fuel
> in a short period of time
> >is with a mechanical injection pump except maybe
> the stuff used in single
> >rail diesels.
> 
> Or with an air boost.
> 
>  Does anyone know what the single rail diesels use
> for
> >pressure and injectors?
> 
> The injectors are directly above the chambers, and
> are actuated by an extra
> cam lobe/rocker arm. No idea what the pressure in
> the injector itself goes
> up to when it gets actuated--but HIGH--Probably
> hydraulic tappet style
> pressures. On a Cummins PT system (Pressure/Time)
> the fuel rail pressure
> varies with engine speed/ load, as this pressure is
> what determines how
> full the injectors get before getting activated by
> the cam. Up to maybe 300
> psi in the rail. Changing the "button" in the
> Cummins fuel pump changes the
> pressure /speed output curve of the pump, and thus
> changes the amount of
> fuel injected at full load on a Cummins. (Not all
> Cummins B series
> (pick-up) engines have PT injection. This is 855,
> KT, and triple nickel
> stuff.)
> 
> On Jimmys, there is a rack the length of the head
> which varies injector
> stroke, (adjusting the lash on the injector rockers
> and adjusting to
> equalize the strokes of the injectors is the source
> of the term "running
> the rack" or "running the overhead") and the fuel
> rail in the head is at
> relatively constant pressure, maybe 150 psi??
> But--again, the actual
> injection pressure is on up there.
> 
> Regards, Greg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


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From: "CLsnyder" <claresnyder@home.com>
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Subject: Re: Flame - Not (Tornado engine?)
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 08:57:02 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 8:09 AM
Subject: Re: Flame - Not (Tornado engine?)


> Wasn't one of these engines also used in the Checker Marathon before they
> switched to Chevy?
>
No, Checker used Continental flat heads, and an overhead valve version of
the same engine before switching to Chevy (1964). A few Chrysler engines
were also used.
> Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
>



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From: "CLsnyder" <claresnyder@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <372dacff.770149@smtp.uia.net> <005301be957d$888ac900$e401d4cd@gderian>
Subject: Re: Direct Injection - Stratified
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 09:03:27 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 11:48 AM
Subject: Re: Direct Injection - Stratified


> Gee Robert, if all these engines are so good, why aren't they used by
> anyone?  Maybe they are in the same vault with the Fish carburetor.
>
> Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
>
>
> > Contrary to public myth, there actually is more than one stratified
charge
> > design - but then anyone who was not blindly prejudiced would have know
> that.
> snip
>
Can anybody spell COST? As long as the bean-counters and stock prices have
more to say about automotive design than the engineers they will not see the
light of day.
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 09:07:46 1999
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Dave,
	Flow is measured for a given pressure drop across the
runner. I really can't imagine that this means a 600cfm flow
with a 15 psi pressure drop. Who would ever spec a runner
with that much drop. What is the pressure differential that
creates a 600cfm flow through the tube. Then can you live
with that much pressure drop?

		Ken

David Sagers wrote:
> 
> Anyone know how to calculate CFM rates?  I was talking to the shop that's
> building the turbo set up for my chevy engine.  He said that at 15 lbs of
> boost each runner on a stock TPI will flow 600 cfm.  I think the stock
> runners are 1.25"  But 600 cfm sounds really high for such a small tube,
> even at 15 lbs of boost.
> 
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 09:09:42 1999
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From: "CLsnyder" <claresnyder@home.com>
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References: <000c01be9587$35376920$64015fc3@q2w3e4r5>
Subject: Re: Flame - Not (Tornado engine?)
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 09:10:14 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: Rudi Machilek <rudi@vnet.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 1:05 PM
Subject: RE: Flame - Not (Tornado engine?)


> Entire Toronado front drive assemble was also used in the GM Transmode RV.
As I recall, the carburetor was a Carter Thermo-quad that was prone to
warping and leaking.  Would have loved an EFI set-up.  We loaded them down
with gas analyzers and mini lab set-ups and drove them all over the US.
Pretty decent gas mileage but prone to overheating.  Another great idea not
engineered thoroughly.

TOTALLY different engine you are speaking of here Rudy. The TORNADO was a
Willys engine - used in the Jeeps. The Buick V6 engine used in the Jeepster
was also branded a TORNADO for a few years. The TORONADO was the Olds
monster.
>
> Rudi Machilek
>
> >In this country--the Tornado engines only came with an eight port head
> >(individual exhausts, but two logged intakes), and obviously without the
> >good rods. It came in early sixties Gladiator pick-ups and Wagoneers.
And,
> >as one might expect for a hemi head with a short duration cam with
> >aggressive valve lift rates, it got rather good mileage--about 17.5 mpg,
> >highway--- in a well tuned 4x4 Gladiator. But--no, it was not a high
> >revver.
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 09:10:17 1999
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Subject: Re: Transplant
References: <01be9571$0dec8500$43930ccf@owlymcn.net.mcn.net> <006f01be955f$516a3820$28167018@ktchnr1.on.wave.home.com> <372E49B1.CA19B85A@grolen.com>
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Most 60's outboard engines used roller bearings, the 2 cycle
versions probably still do. In a 2 cycle engine they are
common because the lubrication (oiling) is only from the
Fuel mix.

		Ken

Shannen Durphey wrote:
> 
> CLsnyder wrote:
> 
> > >
> > Some engines were MADE with spinning inserts - bearing material on both
> > sides. Others use a loose cage rollers, with the rod being the outer race,
> > and the crank the inner. Obviously the latter are NOT pressure lubed.
> What engines used roller bearings?  What applications?
> Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 09:17:48 1999
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From: "CLsnyder" <claresnyder@home.com>
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References: <Pine.LNX.4.04.9905031422430.17171-100000@benatar.snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: valve job question
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 09:18:21 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@snurgle.org>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 2:23 PM
Subject: Re: valve job question


> On Sun, 2 May 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote:
>
> > > Cleaning the carbon deposits off of the piston isn't really all that
> > > important because they just come right back when the engine runs the
next
> > > time.
> >
> > Sounds like a tire shop I went to once.  "No need to clean the mud off
> > the wheel before we balance it.  It just gets muddy again anyway."
>
> Heh.  No, that's different, because the carbon deposits don't affect the
> operation of the engine.  Really.  Unless there's so much of it that it
> causes dieseling.
>
> My suggestion is more akin to saying "no need to clean the mud off the
> wheel before you rotate the tires."
>
Actually, carbon deposits CAN affect engine running. Compression ratio is
increased, making the engine more prone to detonation. If the cabon starts
to flake you get hot spots, making the engine more prone to detonation. Soft
carbon absorbs some fuel, causing cold low-speed driveability problems and
causing engines to fail sniffer tests.
Coating the cyl wall with grease before bringing the piston to TDC  for
decarbonizing was standard procedure - along with washing the cyl walls and
rings down with ATF any time a head was removed to remove ALL traces of
glycol from the rings before re-assembly. Glycol on the rings can cause an
oil consumption problem on an otherwise OK engine very quickly.
25 years as an auto mechanic - a good number of rebuilds, valve jobs, and
decarbs under my belt. Never a problem with ring / cyl damage.
> :}
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 09:44:58 1999
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From: "CLsnyder" <claresnyder@home.com>
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Subject: Re: Transplant
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 09:45:31 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 9:13 PM
Subject: Re: Transplant


> CLsnyder wrote:
>
> > >
> > Some engines were MADE with spinning inserts - bearing material on both
> > sides. Others use a loose cage rollers, with the rod being the outer
race,
> > and the crank the inner. Obviously the latter are NOT pressure lubed.
> What engines used roller bearings?  What applications?
> Shannen
>
MOST 2 strokers use roller bearings, and some obscure 4 strokes - I believe
a few high speed Euro motorcycle engines. A few OLD splash lubed engines
also used them.


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 09:47:54 1999
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References: <003001be95dc$a043bc50$602005cf@tegu.talarian.com>
Subject: Re: Transplant
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 09:48:27 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: James Montebello <jamesm@talarian.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 11:17 PM
Subject: RE: Transplant


> > What engines used roller bearings?  What applications?
> > Shannen
>
> A great many engines use roller bearings.  The bottom ends
> of most two-stroke engines are all roller bearings.
>
SNIPP
> In all cases, the crankshafts are multiple pieces pressed
> together around the bearings and one-piece rods.  For very
> high-stress operation, these bits would be welded together.
> If the crank needed to be rebuilt, the weld was ground off,
> and the parts pressed apart.
>
No, not all. OMC uses an automotive style crank with split caps and rollers.

> Most of these engines are not low power applications, either.
> The two-stroke GP machines made today produce in excess of
> 400hp/liter unsupercharged.  The big roller bearing Suzuki
> and Kawasaki engines are very popular in drag-bike applications.
>
> james montebello
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 09:52:24 1999
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Subject: Re: Fish Carbs
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 09:52:58 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Harris <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 1:12 AM
Subject: Fish Carbs


> Same reason as the valve in block L head "Flat Head" reigned supreme for
40
> odd years.  Just because it is very good doesn't make it cheap - and to
the
> vast majority of the automotive purchasers cheap is the only virtue.
Never
> confuse good with cheap - or you will buy Compak Packard Bell Hewlett
Packard
> Gateway Cyrix and AMD etc.
>
>
Sounds like the "voice of experience" speaking!!
Like I always say, "If you want first quality oats, you have to pay first
quality price. If, on the other hand, you wish to settle for oats that have
already been through the horse, they come a bit cheaper"


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 09:53:01 1999
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Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 09:51:35 EDT
Subject: Inside the 99 Chrysler 300M ECM/TCM
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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For a upcoming project, I've purchased a 99 Chrysler 300M  V6   3.5L 
engine/trans/computer.  At some point in the future I would like to alter the 
speed limiter/rev limiter and possibly some other items.  

For general information I will post some of the major chips in the ECM and 
the Trans controll module.  All of these numbers have shown up on the  
www.jjsurface.com web site, even though they don't show up on the chips 
manufacturers site.   JJ surface states they will sell in quanities of 1 to 
1,000,000.  Perhaps they could help with other automotive chips.


Engine Module
PN  04606840AP
It also has a serial number, wonder if it's also imbeded in the flash chip?
Potted in clear/amber silicone.

Device purpose        Memory
PN                          M28F220-90M3
Brand                       ST         ( www.st.com)
Package                   SO44
4M Flash memory, soldered to the board

Device purpose      Unknown
PN                       4745389
Brand                   ST           
Package               Rectangular, pins on all sides ~ 18 pin X ~26 pin
Shows up on the www.jjsurface.com site, but not on www.st.com

Device Purpose     CPU
PN                       SC435409MFC16  (Copyright Chrysler 95)
Brand                   Motorola
Package               Square, pins on all sides ~110 total
Shows up on the www.jjsurface.com site but not on the    search.motorola.com  
  site

Device Purpose      Unknown
PN                        04812391AB  Chry Corp97
                            H9833BRJN
Brand                    H in a square,    Harris  ( www.semi.harris.com)
Package                Rectangular 28 pin surface mount
It's listed on the JJ Surface site but not on the Harris site. Dosn't seem to 
be knock sensing, the KS IC on the Harris site has 20 pins.    Harris seems 
to have a good automotive area           
http://www.semi.harris.com/auto/index.htm




Trans Computer

PN   04606936AD
It also has a serial number, wonder if it's also imbeded in the flash chip?
Potted in clear/amber silicone.

Device purpose        Memory
PN                         M28F102-150XK3
Brand                     ST
Package                 Square, pins on all sides PN says it is a PLCC44 
package, but it is a soldered surface mount.


I'll post more info as it becomes available.

Harold

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 09:59:09 1999
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Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 09:49:17 -0400
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
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William T Wilson wrote:
> 
> On Sun, 2 May 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote:
> 
> > > Cleaning the carbon deposits off of the piston isn't really all that
> > > important because they just come right back when the engine runs the next
> > > time.
> >
> > Sounds like a tire shop I went to once.  "No need to clean the mud off
> > the wheel before we balance it.  It just gets muddy again anyway."
> 
> Heh.  No, that's different, because the carbon deposits don't affect the
> operation of the engine.  Really.  Unless there's so much of it that it
> causes dieseling.
> 
> My suggestion is more akin to saying "no need to clean the mud off the
> wheel before you rotate the tires."
> 
> :}
WHAT???  Carbon doesn't affect engine operation???  Where, pray tell,
did you get that information?
If you're sending an aluminum head out for a valve job, typically the
gasket surface gets planed in the process.  Now you leave the carbon
on the pistons, knowing full well it wasn't dieseling before the head
job.  The head comes back with slightly smaller chambers and nice
tight valves, and you bolt it on and go.  If the engine's a high
compression, late model type (like a Geo Metro at 13:1), there's a
good chance you'll burn the exhaust
valves the first time you head out on the highway.  But it won't
diesel.
But hey, the engine this original question was about is a small block
Chevy.  Pretty durable, probably 8.5:1 compression, iron heads.  No
problems there, right?  But maybe there's a bunch of carbon built up
on numbers 6 and 8 cylinders from worn guides.  So ya take the car out
with your nice, tight valves, and get on it 'cause you know it's got
more power.  There's some rattling, not too much, probably just too
much timing advance.  So you play with the timing, get on it some
more, play with the timing, but you end up with your total advance
pretty low and not as much power as you expected.  But it doesn't
diesel, it's only two cylinders, and they're only showing problems at
higher RPM, so the carbon can't be causing it.  Must be, oh, a
mystery.

Sure the carbon comes back when you run the engine.  But what you see
during a tear down is an accumulation over a large period of time and
after a
fair amount of wear.  Putting an engine back together like that is
asking for trouble, and I would consider it a sign of laziness knowing
how easily carbon buildup can be removed.

Shannen


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Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 08:05:16 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: atomization enhancement
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Scuse me--

Perhaps I misunderstood what was meant by a single rail system--the
Jimmy's--a mid 1930's design-- hardly had an ecu!

Greg


>> Hi all
>
>  The Bosch single rail system being introduced   on
>diesels uses a mechanical pump to generate a     fuel
>rail pressure of around 1800 bar.  The injectors   are
>triggered like petrol injection injectors by a
>signal from the ECU.
>
>--- Greg Hermann <bearbvd@sni.net> wrote:
>> >A "puddle" of fuel in this context can mean a cloud
>> of droplets in the port.
>> >The shock wave that hits this breaks up the drops
>> into smaller ones.  Sure
>> >it gets diluted, etc. but its the best we have for
>> now and it does work
>> >pretty well.  The only way to inject atomized fuel
>> in a short period of time
>> >is with a mechanical injection pump except maybe
>> the stuff used in single
>> >rail diesels.
>>
>> Or with an air boost.
>>
>>  Does anyone know what the single rail diesels use
>> for
>> >pressure and injectors?
>>
>> The injectors are directly above the chambers, and
>> are actuated by an extra
>> cam lobe/rocker arm. No idea what the pressure in
>> the injector itself goes
>> up to when it gets actuated--but HIGH--Probably
>> hydraulic tappet style
>> pressures. On a Cummins PT system (Pressure/Time)
>> the fuel rail pressure
>> varies with engine speed/ load, as this pressure is
>> what determines how
>> full the injectors get before getting activated by
>> the cam. Up to maybe 300
>> psi in the rail. Changing the "button" in the
>> Cummins fuel pump changes the
>> pressure /speed output curve of the pump, and thus
>> changes the amount of
>> fuel injected at full load on a Cummins. (Not all
>> Cummins B series
>> (pick-up) engines have PT injection. This is 855,
>> KT, and triple nickel
>> stuff.)
>>
>> On Jimmys, there is a rack the length of the head
>> which varies injector
>> stroke, (adjusting the lash on the injector rockers
>> and adjusting to
>> equalize the strokes of the injectors is the source
>> of the term "running
>> the rack" or "running the overhead") and the fuel
>> rail in the head is at
>> relatively constant pressure, maybe 150 psi??
>> But--again, the actual
>> injection pressure is on up there.
>>
>> Regards, Greg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>_________________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com



From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 10:17:33 1999
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Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 10:16:36 EDT
Subject: Re: fuel line check valve reality check
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In a message dated 5/4/99, 2:13:32 AM, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu 
writes:
<<howdy.

I am trying to find 2 'flapper' type, low threshold, fuel check valves for
my 72 xj6, my thought is to tie both fuel tanks together with a one way
valve in each line, then have that go to a 'T' then to the chev mechanical
pump. (I have a Chevy eng in it and I want to remove the old original
electric fuel pumps & related mess in the trunk.)

an email to Earl's got me a $50.00 price per valve, not including the
fittings. I called another place and got a price of $195.00 for a single
electric shut off valve, (I briefly thought of using 2 of them). this is a
low-tech daily driver, why are one way check valves & stuff so expensive ??
yikes ! is there some plain old ford/chev, one way check valve someplace ?

thanks, Ted.

>>


The SII and SIII  XJ6 uses valves that are both one-way and electric 
shut-off.   I think they are $30 - $40 a piece new, and of course if you can 
find one in a junk yard that would be even better.  They are located in the 
rear wheel well, next to the gas tank, and behind a shield.  I think they are 
probably exactly what you need since you will still be able to maintain the 
ability to switch between tanks.
I have tried to simplify the system in my SII but have found there is no way 
around using the electric valves.  Otherwise you have problems with one tank 
emptying before the other and introducing air into the gas line.
Ted

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 10:19:46 1999
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From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Inside the 99 Chrysler 300M ECM/TCM
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>Engine Module
>PN  04606840AP
>It also has a serial number, wonder if it's also imbeded in the flash chip?


Yes it is...

>
>Device purpose        Memory
>PN                          M28F220-90M3
>Brand                       ST         ( www.st.com)
>Package                   SO44
>4M Flash memory, soldered to the board
>
>Device purpose      Unknown
>PN                       4745389
>Brand                   ST
>Package               Rectangular, pins on all sides ~ 18 pin X ~26 pin
>Shows up on the www.jjsurface.com site, but not on www.st.com
>
>Device Purpose     CPU
>PN                       SC435409MFC16  (Copyright Chrysler 95)
>Brand                   Motorola
>Package               Square, pins on all sides ~110 total
>Shows up on the www.jjsurface.com site but not on the
search.motorola.com
>  site
>

Sounds like the MC68HC16... there are a few variants, one or two of which
include OBD_II J1850 messaging capabilities

>Device Purpose      Unknown
>PN                        04812391AB  Chry Corp97
>                            H9833BRJN
>Brand                    H in a square,    Harris  ( www.semi.harris.com)
>Package                Rectangular 28 pin surface mount
>It's listed on the JJ Surface site but not on the Harris site. Dosn't seem
to
>be knock sensing, the KS IC on the Harris site has 20 pins.    Harris seems
>to have a good automotive area
>http://www.semi.harris.com/auto/index.htm


This could also be a J1850 controller...  HIP7030 series






From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 10:21:08 1999
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Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 10:19:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Re: Transplant
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In a message dated 5/4/99, 9:51:47 AM, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu 
writes:
<<MOST 2 strokers use roller bearings, and some obscure 4 strokes - I believe
a few high speed Euro motorcycle engines. A few OLD splash lubed engines
also used them>>

I think '50s Prsche high performance engine with the OHC used them (Carrera?).

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 10:26:54 1999
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References: <199905011743.NAA30013@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu> <372DFAA7.7FCFD5EA@pcmail.css.mot.com> <372EE6F8.1CAB965D@cummins.com>
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Matt S Bower wrote:
> 
> GM went to it earlier than the LT1.  If you look at late 80's IROC's
> TA's and vettes they should all be reverse flowed. 
Nope.  Not reverse flow.  Only rev. flow V8s were LT1 and LT4
engines.  Waterpump rotation was reverse of Vee belt models, but
coolant flow was in block, out manifold like previous years.

> The reason as I can
> recall was something to do with trying to control the head temps for
> emmisions.  

Reduces head temps allowing higher compression without detonation. 
Same effect can be achieved with ceramic coatings.

>They were able to get around the need with the LS1 engine
> and went back to the standard flow which I believe keeps the whole
> system at a more uniform temp.  Bottom line still is that the gains
> weren't high enough for anyone else to fool with it.
> 
> Thomas Martin wrote:
> >
> > Has anyone retorfitted an older V8 (non LT1) with reverse cooling?
> >
> > Is there any drawbacks to reverse cooling vs conventional?  It is worth the
> > mechanical rework to do?
> >
> > I am curious to see why GM did it on the LT1, and from what I have gathered, dropped
> > it on the LS1.  Knowing GM, there MUST have been a good reason.

Who really knows GM?
Shannen
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Thomas Martin


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 10:34:50 1999
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>Univ. of Alabamba is working on a anti-gravity car.
>Says could be ready within 10 yrs.


    That's what they have been saying about fusion power for the last 30
years or so....

Soren


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 10:40:04 1999
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Subject: Re: Fish Carbs
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From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <372EE80A.E6DADBEF@xephic.dynip.com> from "Frederic Breitwieser" at May 4, 99 08:28:58 am
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> 
> >           GOOD
> >             ^
> >            / \
> >           /   \
> >          /     \
> >          -------
> >    CHEAP        EASY
> 
> Good one Jason... good one.  I wonder how my twin-turbo 431 efi
> stroker fits into this...
> 
>           unreliable
>               ^
>              / \
>             /   \
>             -----
>     expensive    complex
> 

I think this is developing into a graphical representation of the 
Fangle Quotient.  See the 2 dimensional representation of the 4 dimensional 
FQ quantification below.
w
        Fangle-O-Meter Graphic Representation

      easy         cheap |               practical
           \             |             /
             \           |           /
               \         |         /
                 \       |       /
                   \     |     /
                     \   |   /
                       \ | /
 unreliable--------------|--------------------good
                       / | \
                     /   |   \
                   /     |     \
                 /       |       \
               /         |         \
             /           |           \
     useless             |             difficult 
              expensive  |

You will notice that we have 4 axis, which represent the major properties of 
good Fanglage.  As we move in the positive direction on each axis we have the 
desirable properties of good Fanglage, and as we move in the other direction 
we have the undesirable properties, many government projects seem to end up in 
this region, "The Black Hole of Resources", whether intentionally or otherwise.

The scales are limitless and measured in the following units:
The u-g scale in Yugo-Rollses with 0 being approximately 1 Chevy.
The e-c scale in money with 0 being a budget the average Fangler could afford,
ie. cheaper than a mobile home in Ohio.
The d-e scale in SHM-CDB (shade tree howls-can do blindfolded) with 0 requiring
a moderate amount of attention, but no use of "magic words" or tools of
destruction, ie. replacing a bolt on carburator setup, or adjusting valve lash.
The u-p scale in GE-ME (government employees-mechanical engineers) with 0
being 1 7-11 night clerk.

Can now give meaningful fanglage co-ordinates to all ouf our projects.
As an example, Fred's EFI-383 project would come in about at
Toyota, VCR, 4 SHMs, Marine Mechanic. Totally understandable units, that explain
the workings of the projects in Fangler's terms.

Clive 

Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 10:46:22 1999
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Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 08:59:35 -0700
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Can't help ya with the CFM Calc Formula, sorry,

However, a Stock 426 Hemi only flows between 300-400 cfm per runner and
it was supposed to outflow ANYTHING...

Good luck with your project...

Do you have a web site which details your build up?

ALSO, is it a single or dual turbo setup?

Thanks!

Todd....!!
----------

David Sagers wrote:
> 
> Anyone know how to calculate CFM rates?  I was talking to the shop that's
> building the turbo set up for my chevy engine.  He said that at 15 lbs of
> boost each runner on a stock TPI will flow 600 cfm.  I think the stock
> runners are 1.25"  But 600 cfm sounds really high for such a small tube,
> even at 15 lbs of boost.
> 
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com



From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 10:46:28 1999
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COOL DEAL!

Thanks for sharing that info, haven't ever heard/read about stock roller
bearing apps!

Only Hig Dollar Race setups!!

Good to know!

LATER!

Todd....!!

----------

James Montebello wrote:
> 
> > What engines used roller bearings?  What applications?
> > Shannen
> 
> A great many engines use roller bearings.  The bottom ends
> of most two-stroke engines are all roller bearings.
> 
> A good many four-stroke motorcycle engines have also been made
> using rolling-element bottom ends.  Harleys use them, most
> four-stroke singles, and quite a few large displacement fours
> made by Suzuki and Kawasaki used rollers.  Even on engines
> with plain main and big end bearings, rollers are typically
> used at the ends of the crankshaft, and in the gearboxes.
> 
> Porsche made a few racing engines that used roller bearing
> bottom ends in the '50s, and '60s.
> 
> In all cases, the crankshafts are multiple pieces pressed
> together around the bearings and one-piece rods.  For very
> high-stress operation, these bits would be welded together.
> If the crank needed to be rebuilt, the weld was ground off,
> and the parts pressed apart.
> 
> Most of these engines are not low power applications, either.
> The two-stroke GP machines made today produce in excess of
> 400hp/liter unsupercharged.  The big roller bearing Suzuki
> and Kawasaki engines are very popular in drag-bike applications.
> 
> james montebello


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 10:51:14 1999
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Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 08:51:41 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Flame - Not (Tornado engine?)
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>----- Original Message -----
>From: Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
>To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 8:09 AM
>Subject: Re: Flame - Not (Tornado engine?)
>
>
>> Wasn't one of these engines also used in the Checker Marathon before they
>> switched to Chevy?
>>
>No, Checker used Continental flat heads, and an overhead valve version of
>the same engine before switching to Chevy (1964). A few Chrysler engines
>were also used.
>> Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
>>
I think that's exactly what he was saying--but that the Continental they
used was a LOT stronger than the 6-226 that Jeep used. 7 mains, forged
crank, etc.

Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 10:55:43 1999
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Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 09:54:59 -0500 
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Another benefit of the reverse cooling was the dual thermostat setup that
reduced the thermal shock to the engine during warm up.
As far as I can tell the late LT1 is the only reverse cooled SBC. The
reverse cooled engines had different block castings and water pumps and
intake manifolds.  

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Matt S Bower [SMTP:m.s.bower@cummins.com]
> Sent:	Tuesday, May 04, 1999 7:24 AM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: Reverse Cooling?
> 
> GM went to it earlier than the LT1.  If you look at late 80's IROC's
> TA's and vettes they should all be reverse flowed.  The reason as I can
> recall was something to do with trying to control the head temps for
> emmisions.  They were able to get around the need with the LS1 engine
> and went back to the standard flow which I believe keeps the whole
> system at a more uniform temp.  Bottom line still is that the gains
> weren't high enough for anyone else to fool with it.
> 
> Thomas Martin wrote:
> > 
> > Has anyone retorfitted an older V8 (non LT1) with reverse cooling?
> > 
> > Is there any drawbacks to reverse cooling vs conventional?  It is worth
> the
> > mechanical rework to do?
> > 
> > I am curious to see why GM did it on the LT1, and from what I have
> gathered, dropped
> > it on the LS1.  Knowing GM, there MUST have been a good reason.
> > 
> > Thanks!
> > Thomas Martin

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 10:58:03 1999
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>----- Original Message -----
>From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
>To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 9:13 PM
>Subject: Re: Transplant
>
>
>> CLsnyder wrote:
>>
>> > >
>> > Some engines were MADE with spinning inserts - bearing material on both
>> > sides. Others use a loose cage rollers, with the rod being the outer
>race,
>> > and the crank the inner. Obviously the latter are NOT pressure lubed.
>> What engines used roller bearings?  What applications?
>> Shannen
>>
>MOST 2 strokers use roller bearings,

and some obscure 4 strokes -

Porsche 2 liter carrera 4.

 I believe
>a few high speed Euro motorcycle engines. A few OLD splash lubed engines
>also used them.



From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 11:01:15 1999
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----- Original Message ----- 
Subject: Re: alternative engines

Ex-Wife had anti-gravity Broom 10+ years ago.
Grumpy
             (Pardon, lack of efi content)
 
> >Univ. of Alabamba is working on a anti-gravity car.
> >Says could be ready within 10 yrs.
> 
> 
>     That's what they have been saying about fusion power for the last 30
> years or so....
> 
> Soren
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 11:01:26 1999
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Prob with putting high load on engine with low rpm is that the oil
pressure is usually lower at lower rpm's thus smaller film of oil
between crank and main journal bearings and rod and rod bearings and cam
and cam bearings and rockers and rocker pedestals, etc...

More chance for metal to metal contact....thus more chance for
scuffing/scarring of metal and more chance for spinning bearings....

Heating the fuel DOES atomize the fuel better, however the hotter the
mixture the less dense the mixture as well, it's a trade off and there's
definitely a point at whcih heating the micture for atomization is
detrimental to combustion.  Also predetonation is more achievable at
higher inlet temps, as I'm sure you already know...

Later!

Todd....!!

-----------

Aaron Willis wrote:
> 
>         I have been trying the "floor-it-in-high" driving technique for a tank or
> two, and results appear promising, so far.
>         My question for y'all is whether I ought to be concerned with what I have
> always been told is very hard on an engine - asking it to do a lot of work
> at very low RPM.  My car doesn't really "like" to be lugged below about
> 2000 RPM, depending on load.  It shakes and shudders if I load it down to
> heavily, although it does continue to pull.
>         Am I beating the bottom end out of the engine?
> 
>         Also curious about heating the fuel to improve economy.  Worth half a
> damn?  Any words of encouragement or caution?
> 
>         Aaron Willis
>         ICQ #27386985
>         AOL IM: hemiyota
>         http://surf.to/garage-te51 Garage TE51 International


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 11:03:41 1999
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Couldn't one definition of an anti-gravity car be an 'Airplane'?

Later!

Todd....!!

------------

xxalexx@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> 
> Univ. of Alabamba is working on a anti-gravity car.
> Says could be ready within 10 yrs.
> Will not need fuel injection or conventional fuel as we know it.
> There is a photo of a car airborne, but did not say if prototype.
> article in this issue of  Discover Magazine.
> alex


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 11:03:44 1999
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Subject: RE: fuel line check valve reality check
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 08:01:59 -0700 
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really ? I had no idea. thanks Ted I will check into this.

-----Original Message-----
From: Tedscj@aol.com [mailto:Tedscj@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 7:17 AM
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: fuel line check valve reality check


In a message dated 5/4/99, 2:13:32 AM, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu 
writes:
<<howdy.

I am trying to find 2 'flapper' type, low threshold, fuel check valves for
my 72 xj6, my thought is to tie both fuel tanks together with a one way
valve in each line, then have that go to a 'T' then to the chev mechanical
pump. (I have a Chevy eng in it and I want to remove the old original
electric fuel pumps & related mess in the trunk.)

an email to Earl's got me a $50.00 price per valve, not including the
fittings. I called another place and got a price of $195.00 for a single
electric shut off valve, (I briefly thought of using 2 of them). this is a
low-tech daily driver, why are one way check valves & stuff so expensive ??
yikes ! is there some plain old ford/chev, one way check valve someplace ?

thanks, Ted.

>>


The SII and SIII  XJ6 uses valves that are both one-way and electric 
shut-off.   I think they are $30 - $40 a piece new, and of course if you can

find one in a junk yard that would be even better.  They are located in the 
rear wheel well, next to the gas tank, and behind a shield.  I think they
are 
probably exactly what you need since you will still be able to maintain the 
ability to switch between tanks.
I have tried to simplify the system in my SII but have found there is no way

around using the electric valves.  Otherwise you have problems with one tank

emptying before the other and introducing air into the gas line.
Ted

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 11:06:11 1999
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Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 10:03:07 -0500
From: Stephen Cranford <cranford@texas.net>
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Subject: Re: Reverse Cooling?
References: <199905011743.NAA30013@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu> <372DFAA7.7FCFD5EA@pcmail.css.mot.com> <372EE6F8.1CAB965D@cummins.com>
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Matt S Bower wrote:
> 
> GM went to it earlier than the LT1.  If you look at late 80's IROC's
> TA's and vettes they should all be reverse flowed.  The reason as I can
> recall was something to do with trying to control the head temps for
> emmisions.  They were able to get around the need with the LS1 engine
> and went back to the standard flow which I believe keeps the whole
> system at a more uniform temp.  Bottom line still is that the gains
> weren't high enough for anyone else to fool with it.
> 

Try again...The L98's in the C4's and 3rd gen F-Body's weren't reverse
flow at all.  The LT1 is GM's one and only reverse flow V8.  Reverse
flow cooling led to cylinder temp problems that GM thought wouldn't be a
problem and that's why the LS1 isn't reverse flow.  
-- 
Stephen Cranford
92 RS Sapphire Blue w/Purple Pearl & White Stripes
86 IROC-Z28 Red w/black hood and NO interior..new toy!
89 GMC 4WD 1/2 ton Suburban
http://austin.f-body.org/
http://cranford.home.texas.net

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 11:16:00 1999
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Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 10:15:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Reverse Cooling?
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On Tue, 4 May 1999, Stephen Cranford wrote:

> Matt S Bower wrote:
> > 
> > GM went to it earlier than the LT1.  If you look at late 80's IROC's
> > TA's and vettes they should all be reverse flowed.  The reason as I can
> > recall was something to do with trying to control the head temps for
> > emmisions.  They were able to get around the need with the LS1 engine
> > and went back to the standard flow which I believe keeps the whole
> > system at a more uniform temp.  Bottom line still is that the gains
> > weren't high enough for anyone else to fool with it.
> > 
> 
> Try again...The L98's in the C4's and 3rd gen F-Body's weren't reverse
> flow at all.  The LT1 is GM's one and only reverse flow V8.  Reverse
> flow cooling led to cylinder temp problems that GM thought wouldn't be a
> problem and that's why the LS1 isn't reverse flow.  

What did the cylinder temp problems cause to happen?


			Roger


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  4 11:37:49 1999
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References: <Pine.LNX.4.04.9905040430190.17171-100000@benatar.snurgle.org>
Subject: Re: OT max economy, engine stress
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----- Original Message -----
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@snurgle.org>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 4:38 AM
Subject: Re: OT max economy, engine stress


"Lugging" an engine till it shutters, ain't good.  The shutter is usually do
to the t
