From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 02:23:10 1999
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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 02:22:02 EDT
Subject: Re: g meter
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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>xxalexx@ix.netcom.com wrote:
>> 
>> Circuit Cellar Inc. #107 june 99 has good article on the
>> ADXL202 +-2 g accellerometer with 0.001 g resolution
>> Even sensitive to going up and down hills (0.016 g per degree)
>> Complete boards avaliable under $30 from Jameco
>> and Crossbow.
>> alex
>
>Alex -- I've been around the jameco site and can't find the boards you
>mention.  Do you happen to have a Jameco part number?  Or an address for
>crossbow?
>
>I got started breadboarding one of these up, even bought a PIC
>programmer, and a couple ADXL05 parts, but haven't had time to follow
>up.

>Steve Ravet
>steve.ravet@arm.com
>Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
>www.arm.com

I missed the beginning of this. What do you fellows want accelerometers for? 
Skid pad work? You can do almost everything else with wheel turning (as long 
as it isn't slipping).

I wonder because I have an idea for a very cool and simple instrument for 
racing but have not decided to build it yet.

Charlie Springer

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 02:30:00 1999
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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 02:29:15 EDT
Subject: Re: EGO/HEGO wiring.
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xxalexx@ix.netcom.com writes:

>usually the heater wires same color white(or was that black)
>and sensor grey?
>I have not seen any other colors except solid  blk, white,. grey
>and  I'm not color blind.
>Wiring diagrams sometimes have the colors before there own connector
>changes colors.
>alex 

My NGK Ford three wire units are two white (heater) and one black.

The Four wire adds a gray wire. I assume it is the sensor return but have not 
tested it yet to make sure they didn't make the black the return.

Charlie

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 03:11:20 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: laptop HP measurement (Was g meter)
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> Noted and understood. Just thought there would be those that would have been
> interested in something tried, true and hassle free. Never said it would be
> the cheapest <g>...does this other software calculate drag ?

Howdy Lyndon,

It calculates the power that your engine produces, however its real
power, at the wheels, because it requires other information other than
just listening to the engine... so it takes into consideration load. 
However, it cannot distinguish the difference between an aerodynamically
"perfect" 6000lb car versus a 3000lb aerodynamically "embarrassing"
car... load is load, and the software doesn't break that apart... though
you do enter your vehicle's weight and other parameters.

Its close though, damn close !

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 03:12:52 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: laptop HP measurement (Was g meter)
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> Well...okay. Not great--but it can work. This PCdyno uses sensors, records
> speed, "G" forces and calculates HP based on accelerometer inputs to the
> laptop. He claims accuracy within one HP + or -. Guess you have to try it to
> know...

We did try and and thought it was pretty good.  One of the advantages of
this system is you can record using a tape recorder, then dump it into
your sound card later on, though you get more "noise" in the signal. 
Use high quality tapes.  However some racing classes don't want to see
gizmos and electronic stuff, which a tape recorder is of course, but
easier to hide than a laptop.  Duct tape under the dash comes to mind :)

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 06:10:18 1999
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 06:13:33 1999
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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 20:16:14 +1000
From: Peter Gargano <peter@ntserver.techedge.com.au>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: PIC Programmer
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My 2 cents worth on the PIC...

Simon Quested wrote:

> A$25 for a starter kit...
> Is this the sort of thing that is good for a complete beginner in PICs?
> (like me)

I think that it's very good value, BUT, you have to ask yourself why
you're going to use a PIC. These devices are great for performing
many small logic functions - and the Scenix devices (fast PIC clones) 
seem to be fast enough to even replace existing hardware devices
(perhaps even a slow CPU).

The biggest drawback is that the PIC has only small amounts of program
memory. This is built into the architecture and means that larger
projects are much harder to program because you have to worry about
things like your code crossing a page boundary, etc.

Traditional microprocessor architectures like the 68HC11, 68332, etc.
can access lots of program memory and are not limited in the same way
a PIC is. On the other hand, to do anything with one of these "bigger"
chips, you have to write a lot of code just to get the CPU to power
up its internal circuitry and talk to the outside world.

You may have heard about the Basic Stamp (and like clones) that can
be programmed in BASIC (or even C). These devices use a PIC chip,
but they read an external program (usually stored in a serial EEPROM).
For each high level instruction it interprets, the PIC has to
read the EEPROM, decode what is required, then do it. This slows the
PIC down by orders of magnitude compared to running from its "native"
mode, and compared to an a "traditional" microprocessor. In general
a Basic Stamp (or similar) is NOT suitable for an EFI project. On the
other hand, a simple ignition controller is quite do-able (Jaycar also
have a PIC ignition controller kit!).

I have to be honest and say that if you want to get into programming
micros then one of the best things to do is get something like an
Apple II or C64, etc. People are throwing them out and you can get 
them for nothing (perhaps someone will pay you to take one away!). 
Get a book about programming, spend some time getting to know how
to program your CPU, and then, if you're still motivated, AND you
really have something you want to program, team up with one of the
current EFI332 projects and you'll be in a position to understand
what's happening.

If you do get say an Apple, what you'll learn may not be about the
same micro that's in a particular ECU (although the 6502 is not
unlike the 6800 which is the basis for the 68HC11 which is used
in many GM ECUs) but it will give you a basis for understanding
how the microprocessor in the ECU works - that has to be good for
something!

regards,
-- 
Peter Gargano

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 08:18:13 1999
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@oh.verio.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Subject: Re: Prowler V6
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 08:00:49 -0400
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The Z-28 has a 10,000 rpm engine?  The old 302s were redlined at 6000.  The
highest redline pushrod Chevy I know is the old 327/365 and 327/375 which
had 6200 rpm redlines.  It is pretty tough to get a pushrod valvetrain to
work at 10,000 rpm and certainly not with factory parts.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>

>
> > The ZZ3 and ZZ4 have cast cranks.  The ZZZ, ZZ1 and ZZ2 are forged.  I
> >have a new ZZZ if anyone is interested.
> >
> > 1969 was the first year for 4 bolt Chevy SB.  Z-28 and LT-1 only.  L82
> >later also.  I have never heard of a 10,000 rpm stock Chevy.

> You just mentioned it. Starts with a Z.
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 08:47:31 1999
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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 08:50:22 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Bill Shaw <bshaw@connix.com>
Subject: Re: 1227749 Adaptation
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Hi Scott,

Keep us posted on your progress. I'm REAL interested in your project as I
may take a similar route with mine.  I may not be much with the 749 yet,
but I do know a bit about Spiders, so yell if you need help.

Do you intend to replace the air-impeding air-door AFM?  I'm told something
from a 2L Saab may be a suitable replacement. Can you get the AFM from the
car you got the 749 from?

Set up the ignition?  Are you swapping the GM distributor in also?  Does
the 749 require this swap? I think the 2L electronic distributor and module
should be fine.  The stock Fiat ignition module is a GM HE4.

I found this in the digest, I've been saving it for my conversion:

Check any GM A car for aftermarket cruise control. Generator (VSS) is
located in
the speedo cable splice in the center of the engine compartment along the
firewall. Many 80's A cars have it. Ciera, Century, Celebrity, 6000.

------------------------------------------------------------
Bill Shaw
'78 FI Spider
(Will soon be) Fuel injected and stepping out over the line
http://www.connix.com/~bshaw/fiatefi.html
------------------------------------------------------------


>Hello, I am about to adapt a 1227749 ecm to a Fiat Spider and I had a few
>concerns to ask.  One is the Vehicle Speed Sensor, can I do without it, do I
>need to just tell the ecu it is not there, I noticed in Programmer98 there
>is a function to turn it off, is that all I need to do?  Also, should I set
>up the ignition of the fuel injection first?  Which one would be considered
>more stand alone?  One more question, would I be praying too much for the
>car to at least idle and halfway run on a stock rom file?  They are both
>2.0L, Overhead cam.   Or, am I just asking for too much?  Thanks, I have
>been a member of this list just reading for a while and I have finally built
>up the courage to go and do this.  Thanks, for all of the input.
>
>
>                           -Scott Flanagan



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 09:13:59 1999
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From: "Clare Snyder" <claresnyder@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <3.0.6.32.19990531212918.007c43f0@sal.awwwsome.com>
Subject: Re: 22RE wiring 
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 09:14:16 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: Aaron Willis <darkmonahue@awwwsome.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 12:29 AM
Subject: Re: 22RE wiring


> At 11:09 PM 5/31/99 -0400, you wrote:
> >I am new to the world of FI and am totally mesmerized by the endless
> >possibilities...
> >I am swapping a complete 94 22RE for my worn out 22R..
> >I am needing information on the wiring...
> >Any and ALL information and links would be greatly appreciated
> >
> >thanks msapp@ufl.edu
> >
> >
> >
> Grab all that stock 22RE wiring loom you can.  I think (Helene, can you
> confirm this?) that Toyota L-jet, if a '94 is still L-jet, is pretty much
> self-contained...if so, I reckon you could plug it all in without too much
> trouble, just hooking it into the vehicle harness for power and ground...
>
The Toyota vehicles, particularly the Hilux, had a "universal" wiring
harness - the standard truck got the 22r, the SR5 got the 22RE, and there
was also a deisel and turbo diesel option. Chassis wiring was basically the
same throughout. Get the entire engine harness, right back through the
firewall, and EVERY part connected to it. The engine compartment fuse/relay
panel is modified with the efi system, so grab it too. From memory - was
Toyota service tech and service manager 'till about 10 years ago.
>
>
> Aaron Willis
> ICQ #27386985
> AOL IM: hemiyota
> http://surf.to/garage-te51 Garage TE51 International


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 09:33:46 1999
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Message-ID: <011001beac33$5c66c0a0$0b01a8c0@aa>
From: "Gustaf Ulander" <gustaf.ulander@bercoproduktion.se>
To: "EFI" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Help on op-amp (?) circuit
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 15:33:31 +0200
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Hi folks

I need some help on a somewhat trivial (?) circuit.

I want to use the throttle position sensor (TPS) on my Ford Sierra (Bosch
L-jetronic/Motronic) throttle body to activate a relay switch (12 volts) on
my turbo setup. I also want to be able to adjust the point where the switch
activates.

I think I could do away with a LM 324 or LM 328, but I'm not sure, and I
also would need some hints on how to design the complete circuit.

Hope someone can help me out here.

Regards

Gustaf
_______________________________________
Gustaf Ulander
Quality and Environmental affairs
Berco Produktion AB, Skelleftea, Sweden
phone  +46 (0)910-77 51 00
telefax +46 (0)910-854 93
Personal homepage; http://www.look.at/Ford_Capri



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 11:48:38 1999
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From: "Scott Flanagan" <flanaj@mindspring.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <l03130303b3798214e731@[209.66.144.160]>
Subject: Re: 1227749 Adaptation
Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 11:48:31 -0400
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If I am succesful I will probably be putting up an article on
www.mirafiori.com  The '49 is a MAP sensor so I don't have to worry about a
AFM, but the ignition on th 49 is driven by a crank wheel and the whole
reason I intend to do all of this is for turbo.  My father's spider has
turbo, but I am going to add a cam and do some additional head work, along
with lower compression so I figured to get the most out of it I need a
reprogramable set up.  I figured it would be wise to start on a stock motor
so I don't melt a piston or anything on a good motor.


                    -Scott Flanagan
'80 Fiat Spider

> Hi Scott,
>
> Keep us posted on your progress. I'm REAL interested in your project as I
> may take a similar route with mine.  I may not be much with the 749 yet,
> but I do know a bit about Spiders, so yell if you need help.
>
> Do you intend to replace the air-impeding air-door AFM?  I'm told
something
> from a 2L Saab may be a suitable replacement. Can you get the AFM from the
> car you got the 749 from?
>
> Set up the ignition?  Are you swapping the GM distributor in also?  Does
> the 749 require this swap? I think the 2L electronic distributor and
module
> should be fine.  The stock Fiat ignition module is a GM HE4.
>
> I found this in the digest, I've been saving it for my conversion:
>
> Check any GM A car for aftermarket cruise control. Generator (VSS) is
> located in
> the speedo cable splice in the center of the engine compartment along the
> firewall. Many 80's A cars have it. Ciera, Century, Celebrity, 6000.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> Bill Shaw
> '78 FI Spider
> (Will soon be) Fuel injected and stepping out over the line
> http://www.connix.com/~bshaw/fiatefi.html
> ------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> >Hello, I am about to adapt a 1227749 ecm to a Fiat Spider and I had a few
> >concerns to ask.  One is the Vehicle Speed Sensor, can I do without it,
do I
> >need to just tell the ecu it is not there, I noticed in Programmer98
there
> >is a function to turn it off, is that all I need to do?  Also, should I
set
> >up the ignition of the fuel injection first?  Which one would be
considered
> >more stand alone?  One more question, would I be praying too much for the
> >car to at least idle and halfway run on a stock rom file?  They are both
> >2.0L, Overhead cam.   Or, am I just asking for too much?  Thanks, I have
> >been a member of this list just reading for a while and I have finally
built
> >up the courage to go and do this.  Thanks, for all of the input.
> >
> >
> >                           -Scott Flanagan
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 11:55:12 1999
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From: "Todd....!!" <atc347@c-com.net>
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HAHA, good n Jim...

I'll try n find that 'special' magnet man!

Todd....

---------

Jim Davies wrote:
> 
> On Fri, 28 May 1999, Todd....!! wrote:
> 
> > Anybody in here ever ran FORGED steel pistons?  or do most of ya'll only
> > run CAST iron pistons?
> >
> > Just wonderin what kinda answers I'll get from this....
> >
> > I run forged hypereutectic myself, but a magnet won't stick to ANY of
> > em!
> >
> > Anyone know why?
> >
> You have to use a special magnet for these. Try SnapOn...



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 11:55:16 1999
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I hear that William,

And you are correct as far as the way it works where the money borrowed
is collateralized by CASH in their bank!

Will let ya know if it works out good or bad or null...

LATER!

Todd....

--------

William T Wilson wrote:
> 
> On Fri, 28 May 1999, David A. Cooley wrote:
> 
> > >So, what's Check Kiting?
> >
> > That's where you write a check, buy something get cash back, deposit the
> > cash in the bank, write another check etc... basically trying to write
> > checks and deposit the money to stay ahead of all the checks because there
> 
> The difference is that with check kiting, if they catch you, you will end
> up without enough money to cover it all.
> 
> In this little credit-building scheme, even if you stop making payments
> altogether, nobody is out any money because you put the money up in the
> first place.
> 
> > of the loan and puts you in default.  the money has to stay there
> > until the loan is paid off.
> 
> It does, because you are using the money you borrowed from bank A as the
> collateral for bank B.  No particular dollar actually gets used twice.



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 11:55:18 1999
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Thanks for the info Michael,

Will look into it...

However, all the tickin began at a red light all the sudden,(within
about 5 seconds or so) scared the heck outa me, this car's worth about
$3,500-$4,000 and I'd like to sell it and out the money in the bank vs.
leave it in the backyard to rust...

May try thicker oil, but I doubt seriosuly that will help much, if any
at all...

Thanks again for the advice/experience...

LATER!

Todd....

-----------

Stegbauer, Michael wrote:
> 
> Todd,
> 
> I'm assuming the bank runs a credit report and can see that you are
> getting a large number of small loans in a short amount of time.
> Even if they didn't notice that this looks alot like check kiting
> (not exactly the same thing), it would be really suspicious and
> they'd be pretty foolish to give a loan like that.
> 
> I did get the impression from you original message that you were
> asking for more money with each loan, so maybe I've misunderstood
> something there.   They might do it for a loan equal to the amount
> of cash but at some point you'd be asking for more money, right?
> (I don't remember the details of stage 2).  Sooner or later I bet
> they'll start denying you on the number of credit inquiries alone.
> 
> Good luck though!  The cause is just.    ;-)
> 
> Anyway,  have you tried heavier oil for your lifters?  Whenever
> I showed up for an event, all the other DSMers would come over
> and tell me that I had the worst lifter tick they'd ever heard.
> Mobil 1 made it worse, but then I switched to the Valvoline
> Syntec(?) (full Synthetic) 5W-30 and the noise went away.
> I had to get it at PepBoys to start, but Walmart sells it now.
> I switch to the lighter stuff for winter and had a little
> tick occasionally at startup, but nothing to even think about.
> 
> The lifters usually aren't a major problem anyway, though some
> people think they can trigger the knock sensor.  It sounds like
> your compression is way low.   The archives (search.dsm.org)
> suggest that most turbos read around 150.
> 
> Cheers,
> Mike
> 92 AWD Laser
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Todd....!! [mailto:atc347@c-com.net]
> Sent: Friday, May 28, 1999 11:14 AM
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: Getting loans.. (WAY off topic)
> 
> Hello Michael,
> 
> Stupid meaning what?
> 
> Do you believe that a bank giving a 'loan' to someone who puts the exact
> same amount as the loan in a savings account at that bank for collateral
> as bing STUPID?
> 
> They have NO risk whatsoever on that loan, plus they get the interest
> from the loan when all is said and done...
> 
> That' sounds like a no risk type of loan to me as far as the bank's
> concerned....
> 
> I may not have conveyed the theory well....
> 
> ANY bank will give a loan for cash as long as you give them that same
> amount of cash in an account....
> 
> I'll let ya know how it goes....
> 
> The banker may ask why you would even want a loan if you already have
> the money, all ya have to tell em is that you have a hard time saving
> money, and that if it were in the form of a loan that you would have
> more of a reason to save the money, or somethin like that...
> 
> Simple...
> 
> Easy...
> 
> Works...
> 
> Purpose is to build repore and confidence with the lender...
> 
> LATER!
> 
> Todd....
> 
> -----------
> 
> Stegbauer, Michael wrote:
> >
> > > Will be goin out and gettin loans using this $3,000 as my collateral in
> > > several banks in series, i.e. deposit the $3000 in one bank, get a loan
> > > using it as collateral, take the loan money from the first bank, deposit
> > > it into another bank, get a loan on that money etc....
> > >
> > > Then mak 2 or 3 payments on each 'loan' over a 6 week period using the
> > > $3,000 'loan' money for payment money, then go back within about 6 weeks
> > > or so and pay all of em off, then ask for a signature loan from each
> > > bank for about the same amount...(signature meaning NO COLLATERAL!) and
> > > do the same thing with that signature loan money... This will build
> > > credit with the bank(s) as well as a relationship with em...
> >
> > Wow!   I'm looking into buying some land.  If the loan officers in
> > Houston are this stupid, maybe I should get a loan there.



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 11:55:21 1999
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Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
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Makes sense to me....

Personally, I'd rather have the 'lag' and more power as well as less
thermal stress on the engine than the alternative...

In dragracing, if runnin an automatic, turbo lag is not an issue, due to
power braking prior to launching at the startin line gettin rid of the
initial lag....

Cool?

LATER!

Todd....!!

soren wrote:
> 
> ---
> >Matter of fact, I wonder if ANY big car manufacturer even offers any
> >cars which are turbo equipped without an intercooler?
> >
> >Anyone?
> 
>     Probably not right now, but recently (recent in the timeline of
> automotive technology, I think mostly the 1980s) Chrysler, Mitsubishi,
> Subaru, Buick, are the ones I have personally seen that have no stock
> intercooler.  And they did know about intercoolers then, evidently those
> particular models didn't require them.  I suppose that the masses who are
> used to naturally aspirated performance might rather have a low-boost,
> low-lag system where the turbo pushes air through about one foot of intake
> piping instead of 6 ft.
> 
> Soren



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 11:55:23 1999
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Thanks for the notice Fred!,

Just got back from WACO last night, haven't browsed all weekend, had
300+ e-mails this morn!  Am dredgin thru em now!

Have already pulled up the truck site!  Perty cool, GREAT pics!

LATER!

Todd....!!

Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
> Just rebooted... server's up.
> 
> Happy surfing.



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 11:55:25 1999
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Subject: Re: O/T Compression ratio and supercharging, also efi pumps
References: <4825677F.000228DC.00@aupera03.erg.com.au> <4.1.19990528122712.00941390@mail.lig.bellsouth.net> <374F0494.650E@c-com.net> <007201bea97b$231c95a0$28167018@ktchnr1.on.wave.home.com>
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Good to know CL!

Thanks for the info!

LATER!

Todd....
--------

CLsnyder wrote:
> 
> LL100 has over twice the maximum amount of lead ever used in automotive pump
> gas. No problem with burning valves from lack of lead, but quite possibly a
> problem with sticking valves due to lead deposit buildup on stems. Common
> problem on some air-cooled aviation engines designed for the older avgas.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Todd....!! <atc347@c-com.net>
> To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Sent: Friday, May 28, 1999 5:03 PM
> Subject: Re: O/T Compression ratio and supercharging, also efi pumps
> 
> > Hi David,
> >
> > Thanks for the info...
> >
> > However, as far as the lead content, buds said that the AVGas was kinda
> > 'dry' and that I shouldn't run the AVGas too long so as to not burn the
> > valves up...
> >
> > But if you read your source on the net, then it must be true, ey?  lol
> >
> > LATER!
> >
> > Todd....!!
> > http://www.c-com.net/~atc347/toddlnk.htm
> >
> >
> > David A. Cooley wrote:
> > >
> > > At 09:55 AM 5/28/99 -0700, you wrote:
> > > >FYI - I ran AVgas(Aviation fuel) right from outa the airplane fueler
> > > >tanker (They DIDN'T USE THE GROUND STRAP FROM THE TANKER TO THE CAR,
> but
> > > >DID on all the planes, that coulda hurt!) into my 73 Camaro with a 383
> > > >stroker, closed chambered small valve heads(1.94), Edelbrock tunnelram
> > > >w/ dual 600 vac holleys, 4-speed, and 3.73 limited slip 10-bolt rear...
> > > >was at about 10.5:1 compression... first 5 gallons in the new motor
> were
> > > >AVGAS, as were the next few tanks.... kinda expensive... started mixin
> > > >super and avgas, then went to straight superunleaded(93 octane)...
> > > >
> > > >Everyone told me it was only 100 octane, the exhaust smelled like race
> > > >gas to me....
> > >
> > > They don't rate AV gas octane the same as regular gas... 100LL av gas is
> > > about 105-110 octane in automotive terms... It also has MORE lead (even
> > > though it says low lead) than any automotive leaded fuel (Almost twice
> the
> > > amount)
> > > Check out the Gasoline FAQ on the net... Pretty good info there.
> > > ===========================================================
> > >            David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
> > >      Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
> > >    Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they
> didn't?!
> > > ===========================================================
> >
> >
> >



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 11:55:29 1999
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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 09:39:56 -0700
From: "Todd....!!" <atc347@c-com.net>
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Subject: Re: Prowler V6
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So, if I understand correctly we'll need a metric magnet in order to
tell whether our pistons are aluminum or not?

Just checkin....

LATER!

Todd....

C. Brooks wrote:
> 
> You're TOO cruel, SnapOn doesn't carry metric magnets... But Craftsman does
> :)
> 
> Charles Brooks
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Friday, May 28, 1999 7:37 PM
> Subject: Re: Prowler V6
> 
> >
> >
> >On Fri, 28 May 1999, Todd....!! wrote:
> >
> >> Anybody in here ever ran FORGED steel pistons?  or do most of ya'll only
> >> run CAST iron pistons?
> >>
> >> Just wonderin what kinda answers I'll get from this....
> >>
> >> I run forged hypereutectic myself, but a magnet won't stick to ANY of
> >> em!
> >>
> >> Anyone know why?
> >>
> >You have to use a special magnet for these. Try SnapOn...
> >
> >
> >



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 11:55:34 1999
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From: "Todd....!!" <atc347@c-com.net>
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Subject: Re: mopar block weights
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Thanks for the numbers Charles!

If I get a chance to weigh thst crank, will post numbers!

Later!

Todd....

Charles wrote:
> 
> On Fri, 28 May 1999 22:29:43 -0400, you wrote:
> 
> >I WILL find out the diff 'tween a 383/400 and 440 block I have an apart
> >383 short block at gramps, am about to go up their this weekend, may
> >have to weigh the sucker!  How much ya think, just for the block alone?
> 
>         According to my MP books the 440 block with caps weighs
> 225 lbs.
>         Don't remember the figure for 383/400 but it's probably
> not a whole lot less...
> 
>         If you want a surprise weigh a 440 steel crank sometime
> ;)
> -Charles



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 12:04:39 1999
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From: "Bob Huish" <rhuish@goldrush.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 09:07:13 -0700
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> > At 09:19 AM 5/31/99 +1000, you wrote:
> > ><  If anyone is interested in being part of a group
> > >> parts order, let me know.  So, check out:
> > >
> > >Count me in.
> 
> do you have a ball park figure on cost?? I'm very interested
> 

Add me to the list too...thanks
Bob Cuda-65 - Angels Camp, Calif.
cudabob@jps.net
http://www.goldrush.com/~rhuish/

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 12:20:40 1999
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To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <008401bea956$c6b84800$41010e0a@soren> <37540870.692B@c-com.net>
Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 12:19:36 -0400
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> Makes sense to me....
> 
> Personally, I'd rather have the 'lag' and more power as well as less
> thermal stress on the engine than the alternative...
> 
> In dragracing, if runnin an automatic, turbo lag is not an issue, due to
> power braking prior to launching at the startin line gettin rid of the
> initial lag....

Or a small shot of Nitrous to get the Turbo spinning!


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 12:21:08 1999
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References: <006201bea987$cd378700$9abec7cf@l9m4y6> <37540CDC.321D@c-com.net>
Subject: Re: Prowler V6
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> So, if I understand correctly we'll need a metric magnet in order to
> tell whether our pistons are aluminum or not?

Not just any metric magnet... A Left handed Unobtanium/niobium alloy metric
magnet.



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 12:44:10 1999
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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 12:48:00 -0400
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic@xephic.dynip.com>
Organization: Xephic Technology
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Subject: Re: Help on op-amp (?) circuit
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> I think I could do away with a LM 324 or LM 328, but I'm not sure, and I
> also would need some hints on how to design the complete circuit.

I've used the LM324 before, and its pretty common.  The LM324 is also
"reasonably" stable.  I'm not sure if you have access to a Radio Shack
in Sweden, however that particular chain store has books that can help
you out.

basically, you want to run the input of the TPS sensor into the op-amp
on the + input, and connect the - input to a variable resistor taht's
connected to ground and Vcc (supply voltage on your circuit), which
you would use to adjust the cut-in/cut-out threshold.

If you can't find the book, let me know, I might have a simple circuit
diagram that would give you the basics, using the LM324, and you can
go from there.  I have the book actually sitting on my dressor at the
moment, so its not buried deep, deep in the dungeon (basement)

-- 

Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport CT 06606

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 13:31:08 1999
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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 13:35:37 -0400
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> Have already pulled up the truck site!  Perty cool, GREAT pics!

Wait until I add the backyard paint job :)  Just have a little sanding
to do, and some minor surface fixing before I show pictures.  Don't
want to display anything terribly embarrasing :)

-- 

Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport CT 06606

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 13:37:23 1999
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Subject: Re: g meter
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 10:37:15 -0700 (PDT)
In-Reply-To: <3.0.32.19990601011824.00f7f6a0@pop.ricochet.net> from "Chris Conlon" at Jun 1, 99 01:18:28 am
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> At 07:16 PM 5/30/99 +0000, xxalexx@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> >Circuit Cellar Inc. #107 june 99 has good article on the

> >ADXL202 +-2 g accellerometer with 0.001 g resolution

> I meant to mention, but forgot to, that I went to an Analog Dev
> seminar and they let slip that their next generation low-G sensor
> (out soonish) will have a noise equivalent voltage less than half
> of the xl202 and their other first-generation parts. (I can dig up
> the part # if anyone really needs it.) I asked the fellow

Yes, please do.  I was very disappointed with the noise of
the ADXL05 and the 202 didn't seem any better.

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 13:47:00 1999
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Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
References: <008401bea956$c6b84800$41010e0a@soren> <37540870.692B@c-com.net>
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Turbo lag isn't a problem with the automatic only if life
consists of a series of quarter mile dashes. Try a road
course, or street driving, and you won't ignore turbo lag.

		Ken

"Todd....!!" wrote:
> 
> Makes sense to me....
> 
> Personally, I'd rather have the 'lag' and more power as well as less
> thermal stress on the engine than the alternative...
> 
> In dragracing, if runnin an automatic, turbo lag is not an issue, due to
> power braking prior to launching at the startin line gettin rid of the
> initial lag....
> 
> Cool?
> 
> LATER!
> 
> Todd....!!
> 
> soren wrote:
> >
> > ---
> > >Matter of fact, I wonder if ANY big car manufacturer even offers any
> > >cars which are turbo equipped without an intercooler?
> > >
> > >Anyone?
> >
> >     Probably not right now, but recently (recent in the timeline of
> > automotive technology, I think mostly the 1980s) Chrysler, Mitsubishi,
> > Subaru, Buick, are the ones I have personally seen that have no stock
> > intercooler.  And they did know about intercoolers then, evidently those
> > particular models didn't require them.  I suppose that the masses who are
> > used to naturally aspirated performance might rather have a low-boost,
> > low-lag system where the turbo pushes air through about one foot of intake
> > piping instead of 6 ft.
> >
> > Soren

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 14:42:49 1999
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From: "Charles  Brooks" <cbrooks1@mail.tqci.net>
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Subject: Re: Prowler V6
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Well... Yeah :) I keep it in my metric tool drawer, next to the metric hammer and the metric crescent wrench  ;)

Charles Brooks

---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Todd....!!" <atc347@c-com.net>
Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 09:39:56 -0700

>So, if I understand correctly we'll need a metric magnet in order to
tell whether our pistons are aluminum or not?

Just checkin....

LATER!

Todd....



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 14:55:44 1999
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Subject: Re: Prowler V6
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In a message dated 6/1/1999 12:47:11 PM Mountain Daylight Time, 
cbrooks1@mail.tqci.net writes:

<< metric crescent wrench  >>

Hey, I have both the 6" and 150mm crescent wrench, so back off!   :)

See ya,

Mike

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 15:15:05 1999
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> Well... Yeah :) I keep it in my metric tool drawer, next to 
>the metric hammer and the metric crescent wrench  ;)

metric?  What's that?  you mean you guys don't use SAE wrenches and a
large 5lb sledge to make the wrench fit?

<grin>

-- 

Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport CT 06606

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 15:18:00 1999
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@oh.verio.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <008401bea956$c6b84800$41010e0a@soren> <37540870.692B@c-com.net>
Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 15:10:11 -0400
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Lag IS important even when drag racing with an automatic.  As the engine
revs faster in the lower gears, the turbo will be a bit behind and you will
get less boost in the lower gears.  This might be OK but you can't just
ignore lag.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>

> Makes sense to me....
>
> Personally, I'd rather have the 'lag' and more power as well as less
> thermal stress on the engine than the alternative...
>
> In dragracing, if runnin an automatic, turbo lag is not an issue, due to
> power braking prior to launching at the startin line gettin rid of the
> initial lag....
>
> Cool?
>
> LATER!
>
> Todd....!!



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 15:43:49 1999
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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 14:22:41 -0700
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Subject: Re: Prowler V6
References: <006201bea987$cd378700$9abec7cf@l9m4y6> <37540CDC.321D@c-com.net> <005901beac4a$7114d2a0$c8140b98@agfa.bayer.com>
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Well,

I'm already left handed, so all I need now is to obtain some a that
Unobtainium and niobium so I can mix em together and make some of that
good ol alloy to use for the magnet!

COOL!

Wasn't 100% PURE Unobtanium used in ALL 7747's from 79 up?

LATER!

Todd....

---------

David A. Cooley wrote:
> 
> > So, if I understand correctly we'll need a metric magnet in order to
> > tell whether our pistons are aluminum or not?
> 
> Not just any metric magnet... A Left handed Unobtanium/niobium alloy metric
> magnet.


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 15:56:54 1999
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From: Squash <realsquash@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Prowler V6
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Old hit-n-miss engines had cast iron pistons.

Andy

--- Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com> wrote:
> Thomas McCabe wrote:
> > 
> > Jim Davies wrote:
> > >
> > > On Fri, 28 May 1999, Todd....!! wrote:
> > >
> > > > Anybody in here ever ran FORGED steel pistons?
>  or do most of ya'll only
> > > > run CAST iron pistons?
> > > >
> > > > Just wonderin what kinda answers I'll get from
> this....
> > > >
> > > > I run forged hypereutectic myself, but a
> magnet won't stick to ANY of
> > > > em!
> > > >
> > > > Anyone know why?
> > > >
> > > You have to use a special magnet for these. Try
> SnapOn...
> > 
> > OK, Most pistons are ALUMINUM, forged or cast.
> I've personally never
> > seen a STEEL piston.
> > 
> > My .02
> > 
> > L8r
> > --
> You haven't looked at an old enough engine.  When
> advancing the spark
> meant moving the lever, and "Crank 'er up!" meant
> getting out with the
> Z shaped handle, there were ferrous pistons.
> Shannen
> > Thomas McCabe
> > -mccabet@mediaone.net
> > '85 D250, 340 on Propane, Auto
> > '89 Lebaron GTC, 2.2L Turbo II, A-555 5 Speed,
> MPSBEC
> > '91 Spirit R/T, 2.2L DOHC 16 Valve T3, A568 5
> Speed, Anti-lock Brakes,
> >     Power Windows, Locks, Drivers Seat.
> > '96 Dakota SLT Club Cab, Brilliant Blue, 5.2L,
> Auto, 3.55 SG,
> >     Gibson Cat-Back Exhaust, ARE A-234 15x7 rims
> w/ Dunlop GT Qualifiers
> >     255R60-15, Molded running boards and flares,
> Lund bug shield, Cool
> >     Fronts, Ventvisors, and Extang Saber Tonnue
> cover.
> 
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 15:57:32 1999
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From: Aaron Willis <darkmonahue@awwwsome.com>
Subject: Re: Prowler V6
In-Reply-To: <006701beac28$af8d60a0$8f01d4cd@gderian>
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At 08:00 AM 6/1/99 -0400, you wrote:
>The Z-28 has a 10,000 rpm engine?  The old 302s were redlined at 6000.  The
>highest redline pushrod Chevy I know is the old 327/365 and 327/375 which
>had 6200 rpm redlines.  It is pretty tough to get a pushrod valvetrain to
>work at 10,000 rpm and certainly not with factory parts.
>
>Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com

	According to my father, who owned a '65 327/365 Corvette way back when, it
was redlined at 6500, which it easily pulled with the top down with 3.73
gears, indicating 135 MPH.  He never took that one past redline but it sure
sounded like it wanted to go there...as an aside, his '69 SS396/375 El
Camino was also a solid-cammer redlined at 6500.  Apparently it was not
nearly as fast as the Corvette, though.
	Those were (allegedly) the days...



	Aaron Willis
	ICQ #27386985
	AOL IM: hemiyota
	http://surf.to/garage-te51 Garage TE51 International

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 16:04:29 1999
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Subject: Re: Prowler V6
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>
> Wasn't 100% PURE Unobtanium used in ALL 7747's from 79 up?

I think so... That's why they were so expensive... GM used all the
unobtanium in them....


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 16:08:02 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Aaron Willis <darkmonahue@awwwsome.com>
Subject: Re: Prowler V6
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At 03:19 PM 6/1/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>metric?  What's that?  you mean you guys don't use SAE wrenches and a
>large 5lb sledge to make the wrench fit?
>
><grin>
>
>-- 
>
>Frederic Breitwieser
>Bridgeport CT 06606

	Keep laughing, Fred...not long ago I encountered a VERY stubborn flywheel
bolt with a metric head.  It absolutely would not come off, and started to
round itself...a little work with a dremel and an appropriately sized SAE
socket, plus the aforementioned hammer (or "fine-tuning adjuster" as my
brother calls them) got it locked on but good!  Eventually it did come off.
 Have yet to retrieve the bolt from the socket...but it's a small price to
pay for getting the job done!!


	Aaron Willis
	ICQ #27386985
	AOL IM: hemiyota
	http://surf.to/garage-te51 Garage TE51 International

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 16:08:47 1999
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Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
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I've seen that in REAL LIFE!

Anyone ever watch a Grand National(GN) try and run any sort of a tight
road coarse....

By the time the boost kicks in after floorin it whilst coming out of a
turn, the next turn is at hand!, a LOT of noise n smoke, but a puny lil
Mig-yata and/or MG beats the powerful beast in the course!

I thought all GN's were posi's, this one musta been a limited slip or
somethin...

LATER!,

Todd....

------

Ken Kelly wrote:
> 
> Turbo lag isn't a problem with the automatic only if life
> consists of a series of quarter mile dashes. Try a road
> course, or street driving, and you won't ignore turbo lag.
> 
>                 Ken
> 
> "Todd....!!" wrote:
> >
> > Makes sense to me....
> >
> > Personally, I'd rather have the 'lag' and more power as well as less
> > thermal stress on the engine than the alternative...
> >
> > In dragracing, if runnin an automatic, turbo lag is not an issue, due to
> > power braking prior to launching at the startin line gettin rid of the
> > initial lag....
> >
> > Cool?
> >
> > LATER!
> >
> > Todd....!!
> >
> > soren wrote:
> > >
> > > ---
> > > >Matter of fact, I wonder if ANY big car manufacturer even offers any
> > > >cars which are turbo equipped without an intercooler?
> > > >
> > > >Anyone?
> > >
> > >     Probably not right now, but recently (recent in the timeline of
> > > automotive technology, I think mostly the 1980s) Chrysler, Mitsubishi,
> > > Subaru, Buick, are the ones I have personally seen that have no stock
> > > intercooler.  And they did know about intercoolers then, evidently those
> > > particular models didn't require them.  I suppose that the masses who are
> > > used to naturally aspirated performance might rather have a low-boost,
> > > low-lag system where the turbo pushes air through about one foot of intake
> > > piping instead of 6 ft.
> > >
> > > Soren


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 16:09:40 1999
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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 14:08:02 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "Peter D. Hipson" <mail@darkstar.mv.com>
Subject: Re: Prowler V6
In-Reply-To: <37540CDC.321D@c-com.net>
References: <006201bea987$cd378700$9abec7cf@l9m4y6>
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You've got it. Understanding is a wonderful thing, isn't it? BTW, I think
Sears is out of the metric ones, try Home Depot's tool section (Husky).

At 09:39 AM 6/1/99 -0700, you wrote:
>So, if I understand correctly we'll need a metric magnet in order to
>tell whether our pistons are aluminum or not?
>
>Just checkin....
>
>LATER!
>
>Todd....
>
>C. Brooks wrote:
>> 
>> You're TOO cruel, SnapOn doesn't carry metric magnets... But Craftsman does
>> :)
>> 
>> Charles Brooks
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
>> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>> Date: Friday, May 28, 1999 7:37 PM
>> Subject: Re: Prowler V6
>> 
>> >
>> >
>> >On Fri, 28 May 1999, Todd....!! wrote:
>> >
>> >> Anybody in here ever ran FORGED steel pistons?  or do most of ya'll only
>> >> run CAST iron pistons?
>> >>
>> >> Just wonderin what kinda answers I'll get from this....
>> >>
>> >> I run forged hypereutectic myself, but a magnet won't stick to ANY of
>> >> em!
>> >>
>> >> Anyone know why?
>> >>
>> >You have to use a special magnet for these. Try SnapOn...
>> >
>> >
>> >
>
>
>
>
Thanks, 
        Peter Hipson (founder, NEHOG)
        1995 White NA Hummer Wagon

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 16:11:54 1999
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References: <025001bea0ce$46c252c0$42198fd1@nacelp> <374F391F.AEEE209A@xephic.dynip.com> <37540BC2.1D78@c-com.net> <375419E9.4742B34E@xephic.dynip.com>
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Tell me about it!

I'm about to 'paint' my jag the same way, if not worse!

I don't have time for body work or sanding, at least not much at all!

But ANYTHING would make er look better than the sorry peelin job it has
currently!

It's amazin what the sun can do to beautiful paint!  EVEN a JAG paint
job!

Will be spray canned for now(BLACK!)

Dad owns a body shop, will try n get him to have it 'sprayed' cheaply...

Would like to have the Bee's bod and paint done first...

LATER!

Todd....!!

-------------



Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
> > Have already pulled up the truck site!  Perty cool, GREAT pics!
> 
> Wait until I add the backyard paint job :)  Just have a little sanding
> to do, and some minor surface fixing before I show pictures.  Don't
> want to display anything terribly embarrasing :)
> 
> --
> 
> Frederic Breitwieser
> Bridgeport CT 06606
> 
> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
> 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
> 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 16:13:56 1999
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From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
In-Reply-To: <3754552D.7C4C@c-com.net>
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On Tue, 1 Jun 1999, Todd....!! wrote:

> I thought all GN's were posi's, this one musta been a limited slip or
> somethin...
> 
I'll bite...whats the difference?



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 16:16:32 1999
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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 14:17:26 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Steve Ciciora <sciciora@al.noaa.gov>
Subject: Midnight Engineering
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Try emailing to: info-midengr@midengr.com
or check out: http://www.midengr.com/
or write or call: William E. Gates, 1700 Washington Ave., Rocky Ford, CO
81067, 719-254-4558 or fax:719-254-4517.

He prides himself for running a one-man show, but in our case, it dosn't do
us much good.  I sent him $100, and only get Midnight Engineering randomly.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 10:48:55 +0000
From: xxalexx@ix.netcom.com
Subject: RE: g meter

<snip>

Computer Application Jounal went under a few years ago
Took over my a scam artist  named Gates (not Bill)
of Midnight Engineer fame.
Also had a Robotics mag.
He still ows me $100 if you find him, let me know!  
Alex  

<snip>

------------------------------


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 16:25:24 1999
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Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 16:24:16 -0400
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> I've seen that in REAL LIFE!
>
> Anyone ever watch a Grand National(GN) try and run any sort of a tight
> road coarse....

There's a couple guys on the GN list with some HEAVY suspension mods that
are Kicking butt and taking names in the road courses...

>
> By the time the boost kicks in after floorin it whilst coming out of a
> turn, the next turn is at hand!, a LOT of noise n smoke, but a puny lil
> Mig-yata and/or MG beats the powerful beast in the course!
>
> I thought all GN's were posi's, this one musta been a limited slip or
> somethin...
>


Most people that bought them thought it was standard as well... It was an
option even with the GN package... A no cost option at that.


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 16:36:24 1999
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 06:39:23 +1000
From: Peter Gargano <peter@ntserver.techedge.com.au>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: PIC Programmer
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My 2 cents worth on the PIC...

Simon Quested wrote:

> A$25 for a starter kit...
> Is this the sort of thing that is good for a complete beginner in PICs?
> (like me)

I think that it's very good value, BUT, you have to ask yourself why
you're going to use a PIC. These devices are great for performing
many small logic functions - and the Scenix devices (fast PIC clones) 
seem to be fast enough to even replace existing hardware devices
(perhaps even a slow CPU).

The biggest drawback is that the PIC has only small amounts of program
memory. This is built into the architecture and means that larger
projects are much harder to program because you have to worry about
things like your code crossing a page boundary, etc.

Traditional microprocessor architectures like the 68HC11, 68332, etc.
can access lots of program memory and are not limited in the same way
a PIC is. On the other hand, to do anything with one of these "bigger"
chips, you have to write a lot of code just to get the CPU to power
up its internal circuitry and talk to the outside world.

You may have heard about the Basic Stamp (and like clones) that can
be programmed in BASIC (or even C). These devices use a PIC chip,
but they read an external program (usually stored in a serial EEPROM).
For each high level instruction it interprets, the PIC has to
read the EEPROM, decode what is required, then do it. This slows the
PIC down by orders of magnitude compared to running from its "native"
mode, and compared to an a "traditional" microprocessor. In general
a Basic Stamp (or similar) is NOT suitable for an EFI project. On the
other hand, a simple ignition controller is quite do-able (Jaycar also
have a PIC ignition controller kit!).

I have to be honest and say that if you want to get into programming
micros then one of the best things to do is get something like an
Apple II or C64, etc. People are throwing them out and you can get 
them for nothing (perhaps someone will pay you to take one away!). 
Get a book about programming, spend some time getting to know how
to program your CPU, and then, if you're still motivated, AND you
really have something you want to program, team up with one of the
current EFI332 projects and you'll be in a position to understand
what's happening.

If you do get say an Apple, what you'll learn may not be about the
same micro that's in a particular ECU (although the 6502 is not
unlike the 6800 which is the basis for the 68HC11 which is used
in many GM ECUs) but it will give you a basis for understanding
how the microprocessor in the ECU works - that has to be good for
something!

regards,
-- 
Peter Gargano

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 17:09:03 1999
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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 15:46:12 -0700
From: "Todd....!!" <atc347@c-com.net>
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It's true....

That the almighty crescent wrench may be used for multiple tasks...

Last time I used mine, I used it to 'mic' a distributor housing to see
if the one I pulled outa a s.b. ford engine was the same size as the
distributor I was gonna put back in or not....

It worked...

btw, it was a 6"'er as well...

LATER!

Todd....!!

A70Duster@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 6/1/1999 12:47:11 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
> cbrooks1@mail.tqci.net writes:
> 
> << metric crescent wrench  >>
> 
> Hey, I have both the 6" and 150mm crescent wrench, so back off!   :)
> 
> See ya,
> 
> Mike



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 17:10:35 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <011001beac33$5c66c0a0$0b01a8c0@aa>
Subject: Re: Help on op-amp (?) circuit
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 17:11:06 -0400
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----- Original Message -----
From: Gustaf Ulander <gustaf.ulander@bercoproduktion.se>
To: EFI <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 9:33 AM
Subject: Help on op-amp (?) circuit

Use a comparotar, something like a 339, I think is the number.  Op-Amps can
get twitchy, for enables.
Bruce


| Hi folks
|
| I need some help on a somewhat trivial (?) circuit.
|
| I want to use the throttle position sensor (TPS) on my Ford Sierra (Bosch
| L-jetronic/Motronic) throttle body to activate a relay switch (12 volts)
on
| my turbo setup. I also want to be able to adjust the point where the
switch
| activates.
|
| I think I could do away with a LM 324 or LM 328, but I'm not sure, and I
| also would need some hints on how to design the complete circuit.
|
| Hope someone can help me out here.
|
| Regards
|
| Gustaf
| _______________________________________
| Gustaf Ulander
| Quality and Environmental affairs
| Berco Produktion AB, Skelleftea, Sweden
| phone  +46 (0)910-77 51 00
| telefax +46 (0)910-854 93
| Personal homepage; http://www.look.at/Ford_Capri
|
|


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From: Simon Quested <questeds@whio.lincoln.ac.nz>
Subject: Re: PIC Programmer
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Hi Peter and All

> I think that it's very good value, BUT, you have to ask yourself why
> you're going to use a PIC. 

> These devices are great for performing
> many small logic functions - 

This is the sort of thing I need.

> Traditional microprocessor architectures like the 68HC11, 68332, etc. can
> access lots of program memory and are not limited in the same way a PIC
> is. On the other hand, to do anything with one of these "bigger" chips,
> you have to write a lot of code just to get the CPU to power up its
> internal circuitry and talk to the outside world.

This sounds like a lot more hassle.
 
> You may have heard about the Basic Stamp (and like clones) that can
> be programmed in BASIC (or even C). These devices use a PIC chip,
> but they read an external program (usually stored in a serial EEPROM). For
> each high level instruction it interprets, the PIC has to read the EEPROM,
> decode what is required, then do it. This slows the PIC down by orders of
> magnitude compared to running from its "native" mode, and compared to an a
> "traditional" microprocessor. In general a Basic Stamp (or similar) is NOT
> suitable for an EFI project. 

I'm not building an EFI set up. I'm looking at controlling a waste gate with a 
stepper or servo motor.

> I have to be honest and say that if you want to get into programming
> micros 

No not really. 

Pics however for the minor setup cost they could be worth investigating. 

Thanks for the info!

Cheers

Simon
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
  Simon Quested 
  Computer Engineer, Silicon Graphics & Windows NT Support
  LINCOLN UNIVERSITY OF NEW ZEALAND
  Phone (64)(03) 3252811 Ext. 8087
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
A person who smiles in the face of adversity 
.....probably has a scapegoat.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 17:38:42 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Aaron Willis <darkmonahue@awwwsome.com>
Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
In-Reply-To: <3754552D.7C4C@c-com.net>
References: <008401bea956$c6b84800$41010e0a@soren>
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At 02:48 PM 6/1/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>I thought all GN's were posi's, this one musta been a limited slip or
>somethin...
>
>LATER!,
>
>Todd....
>
	OOOOH, Todd, now you've done it...hit me right on the Pet Peeve button!!
	POSI (Positraction) is nothing but Chevrolet's brand name for
limited-slip...I constantly encounter people (metric hammer users) who
insist that "Posi" is a technical term for any non-open diff, while
"limited slip" means an open diff..."limited" meaning it slips until you
let off the throttle.  I am thinking of going to the term "UNlimited slip"
to help clarify this concept...



	Aaron Willis
	ICQ #27386985
	AOL IM: hemiyota
	http://surf.to/garage-te51 Garage TE51 International

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> >usually the heater wires same color white(or was that black)
> >and sensor grey?
> >I have not seen any other colors except solid  blk, white,. grey
> >and  I'm not color blind.
> >Wiring diagrams sometimes have the colors before there own connector
> >changes colors.
> >alex 
> 
> My NGK Ford three wire units are two white (heater) and one black.
> 
> The Four wire adds a gray wire. I assume it is the sensor return but have not 
> tested it yet to make sure they didn't make the black the return.
> 
> Charlie

It seems Bosch and GM use same colors.
I check heater for ohms (which not much)
Check O2 wire by putting in exhaust an measure voltage.
Note I have never seen any huge ground loops in sensor 
and have used 3 wire in place of 4 wire in some applications with insignificate 
changes in federal emissions.  I think I recall some early Bosch schematics
were the 4th wire is just used as shield.   
alex 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 17:41:23 1999
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Does any one want a new Romanian 4X4
set up for a Ford 3.0 V6 5spd 
or Mazda automatic for $5000?
Have worked on these past 5 yrs.
obtaining  EPA certs.  ARO know pulling
out.   300 available.
For  kit car or offroad.
alex

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 18:21:10 1999
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> socket, plus the aforementioned hammer (or "fine-tuning adjuster" as my
> brother calls them) got it locked on but good!  Eventually it did come off.
>  Have yet to retrieve the bolt from the socket...but it's a small price to
> pay for getting the job done!!

Yeah, I was laughing, but I was 3/4 serious too :)  Them damn flywheel
bolts.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 18:23:29 1999
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> I'm about to 'paint' my jag the same way, if not worse!

Hopefully better.  Next weekend I'll take the time and finish it right,
let it bake in the sun for a week, then clear coat it and I'll have a
decent shine.  Friend's body shop offered to clear it for me, so that
makes my life easier.  I've cut off all the rust and welded in patch
panels, and a little bondo here and there, maybe 2 oz total on the
truck.  At least that I've added.

> But ANYTHING would make er look better than the sorry peelin job it has
> currently!

I jsut got sick of the beige paint, and the beige paint peeling.  It was
repainted several times without scratching the underlayers or using
primer, but I knew this when I bought it.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 18:28:27 1999
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Subject: Re: Getting loans.. (WAY off topic)
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How would this work with credit cards?
I just got sent some low interest convience checks.
Since I work on call no steady income I have at times
transfered funds around rather quickly, last time I bounced
a few credit card payments and credit card  said ok,
to no service charge and extended my payment another
month. 
alex   
 
> I hear that William,
> 
> And you are correct as far as the way it works where the money borrowed
> is collateralized by CASH in their bank!
> 
> Will let ya know if it works out good or bad or null...
> 
> LATER!
> 
> Todd....
> 
> --------
> 
> William T Wilson wrote:
> > 
> > On Fri, 28 May 1999, David A. Cooley wrote:
> > 
> > > >So, what's Check Kiting?
> > >
> > > That's where you write a check, buy something get cash back, deposit the
> > > cash in the bank, write another check etc... basically trying to write
> > > checks and deposit the money to stay ahead of all the checks because there
> > 
> > The difference is that with check kiting, if they catch you, you will end
> > up without enough money to cover it all.
> > 
> > In this little credit-building scheme, even if you stop making payments
> > altogether, nobody is out any money because you put the money up in the
> > first place.
> > 
> > > of the loan and puts you in default.  the money has to stay there
> > > until the loan is paid off.
> > 
> > It does, because you are using the money you borrowed from bank A as the
> > collateral for bank B.  No particular dollar actually gets used twice.
> 
> 
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 18:34:09 1999
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: PIC Programmer(RPM CUT)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 00:19:15 +0200
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Hi!
Offshore boats as they jump from wave to wave has not full contact with the

propeller ,its grip and not grip....if you not pull the trottle of in the
right moment... 
the engine is suddenly at full trottle and no resistance, the engine revs
up and the boat and engine is back in Water again ,if  all of the propeller
is in the water the high rpm is shut down at a snap... this way of driving
is killing the lower units and crank . The flywheel is at the top of the
engine so all the 
forces is going trou the crank. A pore analog efi system has difficulties
with
following this abuse I asume.

What I really wanted to ask is: Can I use a PIC to make a intelligent rpm
cut
or a kind of traction control for boats?
I had in mind to cut the ignition at a certain rate of change in rpm. and
then 
put the ingnition on again after the rpm was at the same level as previous 
to ,to much rpm change .
Any input to how this can be solved is much appreciated.
Thanks 
Espen Hilde

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 18:41:57 1999
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Try these guys:

Linder Technical Services (317-487-1868 or www.lindertech.com)

If I remember correctly, he also sells re-conditioned injectors
at a good price.

BobR.


AzDatsun@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Anyone have a reliable source for reasonably priced injectors. I am looking
> for 32-35 lb. per Hr. low impedence type. Any info greatly appreciated.
> 
> Lance
> 
> New to list.



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 18:43:28 1999
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 10:44:50 +1200
From: Simon Quested <questeds@whio.lincoln.ac.nz>
Subject: Re: Help on op-amp (?) circuit
In-reply-to: <00b701beac73$44d3cba0$23633acf@nacelp>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Hi Bruce and All
 
> Use a comparotar, something like a 339, I think is the number.  Op-Amps
> can get twitchy, for enables. Bruce

So what's the difference between the 2 devices, I have never understood this.
You can use an op amp for a comparator but not visa versa ?

Cheers

Simon
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
  Simon Quested 
  Computer Engineer, Silicon Graphics & Windows NT Support
  LINCOLN UNIVERSITY OF NEW ZEALAND
  Phone (64)(03) 3252811 Ext. 8087
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
A person who smiles in the face of adversity 
.....probably has a scapegoat.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 18:54:31 1999
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References: <199906011442.AA3742499424@mail.tqci.net> <3.0.6.32.19990601130750.007ad280@sal.awwwsome.com> <37545CD5.C07073A7@xephic.dynip.com>
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>
>
> Yeah, I was laughing, but I was 3/4 serious too :)  Them damn flywheel
> bolts.

Was that 3/4 serious or 19mm serious??? Think metric!!!


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 19:04:45 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Jason Haines <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
Subject: injector resistance changes - 12.5 to 14.5
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Does anyone know what effect, if any, going from a 12.4 Ohm to 14.5 Ohm
injector will have (like going from some GM to some Ford high impedance
injectors). I know this change is commonly made when switching between
different OE injectors but I was just wondering from an electronics point
of view and driver circuit point of view what this might do ( to
reliability, actual pulse width versus commanded pulse width, current/load
on the injector drivers, diagnostic system checks etc...).

PS - I realize that unless you have an ECU designed for low impedance
injectors you can't run low impedance (2 ohm) injectors with an ECU
designed for high impedance injectors (although some aftermarket ECU's are
designed to work with both).


Thanks,


Jason

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 19:04:49 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Jason Haines <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
Subject: Re: TBI for a 3.4 V-6 crate Motor
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Howell (810-765-5100) should be able to make a harness for you.


Jason


At 02:33 PM 5/31/99 -0400, you wrote: 
>
> I have a 3.4 L GM V-6 in my Jeep Cherokee....this engine is a bored and
> stroked 2.8 with a revised cam (same engine is used in Camaro and minivan
> apps).   I got a rotten TBI 2.8 S-10 Blazer engine and stripped it of its
> manifold and accesories including HEI electronic advance distributor.  I
also
> have the ECU (service number 1227429).  I'm pricing out harnesses to
> replicate GM's  and need to know if the ECU will be thoroughly confused by
> the 20% increase in displacement and need reprogramming.  I have a the
Holley
> 3210 400cfm throttle body (direct OEM replacement for Delco 220, which
looked
> pretty well ragged out) .
>  
> I guess it boils down to two things:
>  
> 1. Do I need to get the ECU reprogrammed (trucks are similar in weight,
> function, and gearing, only big difference is 3spd in mine vs 4spd OD
> automatic in the Blazer) to handle the increased displacement? I have the
cam
> specs for both engines if that is neccesary to make the call?
> 2.  Any recommendations for NEW harness sources?  I want all of the sensors
> (including VSS) wired up and full control of emmissions equipment like OEM.
>  
> Thanks
>  
> Brandon



---------------------------------------------------------------------
Jason R. Haines				jhaines@lingenfelter.com
Lingenfelter Performance Engineering	219-724-2552 / FAX 219-724-8761
1557 Winchester Road, Decatur, IN 46733 USA
http://www.lingenfelter.com		catalog, shop talk and more
sales@lingenfelter.com			sales and tech questions
---------------------------------------------------------------------

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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 18:14:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: PIC Programmer
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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-> > "traditional" microprocessor. In general a Basic Stamp (or similar)
-> is NOT > suitable for an EFI project.

 I've been looking at that.  The Stamp-II has enough speed, gazintas,
and gazoutas to handle a simple delta-TPS system with batch fire.  It
would need ancillary circuitry to interpret RPM into something the Stamp
can deal with.  Most common temp and TPS sensors are supplied with their
own grounds and power, but could be run directly to ground to work as
variable resistors instead of variable voltage.

 I agree it's not suitable for anything very sophisticated, but for a
simple Holley Pro-Jection-sorta system the Stamp would work.
                                                  

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> So what's the difference between the 2 devices, I have never understood this.
> You can use an op amp for a comparator but not visa versa ?

The 339 is a dedicated comparer Op-Amp, its designed specifically for
switching its output at a certain threshold from 0 to 1 or 1 to 0
depending on how wired... where as the LM334 has an analog swing for an
output... and you'd have to buffer its output with a TTL gate or two to
interface to 74xx chips, or a CMOS gate for microprocessors.

I had recommended the 334 because radio shack has them in stock, and
while its not my favorite store, they don't have a minimum order :)

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 20:10:34 1999
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From: "Programmer" <nwester@eidnet.org>
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Subject: Re: laptop HP measurement (Was g meter)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 18:26:13 -0600
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Fred,

Downloaded it last night--looks interesting. Guess I'll have to rig up an
inductive probe to a coil and go for a burn in something...and check it out
against the real thing. Can't argue with freeware for the $$.

Lyndon IPTECH
-----Original Message-----
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic@xephic.dynip.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 3:22 AM
Subject: Re: laptop HP measurement (Was g meter)


>> Noted and understood. Just thought there would be those that would have
been
>> interested in something tried, true and hassle free. Never said it would
be
>> the cheapest <g>...does this other software calculate drag ?
>
>Howdy Lyndon,
>
>It calculates the power that your engine produces, however its real
>power, at the wheels, because it requires other information other than
>just listening to the engine... so it takes into consideration load.
>However, it cannot distinguish the difference between an aerodynamically
>"perfect" 6000lb car versus a 3000lb aerodynamically "embarrassing"
>car... load is load, and the software doesn't break that apart... though
>you do enter your vehicle's weight and other parameters.
>
>Its close though, damn close !


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 20:17:18 1999
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Subject: Re: To Todd
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 20:09:02 -0400
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The basecoat/clearcoat paints I have used require the clear to be painted
within 24 hrs of the base.  This made painting flames a 24 hr marathon.
Paint yellow base, wait 4 hrs, mask flames for 8 hrs, paint red base,
unmask, paint clear.

The base and clear coats chemically bond together.  If you wait a week, you
have to sand the whole thing and reapply some more base.  If you are just
painting some clear on top of regular paint, you still have to sand it
before the clear otherwise the clear won't stick.

The solvents in paint should flash off between coats but the paint should
not cure.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>

> > I'm about to 'paint' my jag the same way, if not worse!
>
> Hopefully better.  Next weekend I'll take the time and finish it right,
> let it bake in the sun for a week, then clear coat it and I'll have a
> decent shine.  Friend's body shop offered to clear it for me, so that
> makes my life easier.  I've cut off all the rust and welded in patch
> panels, and a little bondo here and there, maybe 2 oz total on the
> truck.  At least that I've added.
>
> > But ANYTHING would make er look better than the sorry peelin job it has
> > currently!
>
> I jsut got sick of the beige paint, and the beige paint peeling.  It was
> repainted several times without scratching the underlayers or using
> primer, but I knew this when I bought it.


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 20:27:21 1999
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Subject: Re: Prowler V6
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make sure you get the one suitable for your location, either the northern
hemisphere or the southern hemisphere.

Dan  dzorde@erggroup.com




"Todd....!!" <atc347@c-com.net> on 02-06-99 12:11:32 AM

Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

To:   diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc:    (bcc: Dan Zorde/Transit/ERG_Group)

Subject:  Re: Prowler V6




HAHA, good n Jim...

I'll try n find that 'special' magnet man!

Todd....











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Sheez, don't know about you guys.  In Oz all we need is an axe, a screwdriver
and fence wire.

Dan  dzorde@erggroup.com




Frederic Breitwieser <frederic@xephic.dynip.com> on 02-06-99 03:19:32 AM

Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

To:   diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc:    (bcc: Dan Zorde/Transit/ERG_Group)

Subject:  Re: Prowler V6




> Well... Yeah :) I keep it in my metric tool drawer, next to
>the metric hammer and the metric crescent wrench  ;)

metric?  What's that?  you mean you guys don't use SAE wrenches and a
large 5lb sledge to make the wrench fit?

<grin>

--

Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport CT 06606

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)







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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: To Todd
References: <025001bea0ce$46c252c0$42198fd1@nacelp> <374F391F.AEEE209A@xephic.dynip.com> <37540BC2.1D78@c-com.net> <375419E9.4742B34E@xephic.dynip.com> <375455EB.68C@c-com.net> <37545D60.ABE2A592@xephic.dynip.com> <026901beac8d$4023b240$4801d4cd@gderian>
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> The solvents in paint should flash off between coats but the paint should
> not cure.

This is the case... I believe something in the ballpark of 600 or 800
grit sandpaper is used to alleviate that.  I'll ask... my friend owns a
body shop, and obviously has more exprience than I.  I can barely plug
the compressor in :)

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 21:07:52 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <l03130303b3798214e731@[209.66.144.160]> <000d01beab7d$09da0f60$682c56d1@jimflana>
Subject: Re: 1227749 Adaptation
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 21:08:18 -0400
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| If I am succesful I will probably be putting up an article on
| www.mirafiori.com  The '49 is a MAP sensor so I don't have to worry about
a
| AFM, but the ignition on th 49 is driven by a crank wheel

1227749 uses a distributor, in the syclone application (which the hac at
syty ref to)
Grumpy

and the whole
| reason I intend to do all of this is for turbo.  My father's spider has
| turbo, but I am going to add a cam and do some additional head work, along
| with lower compression so I figured to get the most out of it I need a
| reprogramable set up.  I figured it would be wise to start on a stock
motor
| so I don't melt a piston or anything on a good motor.
|                     -Scott Flanagan
| '80 Fiat Spider
| > Hi Scott,
| > Keep us posted on your progress. I'm REAL interested in your project as
I
| > may take a similar route with mine.  I may not be much with the 749 yet,
| > but I do know a bit about Spiders, so yell if you need help.
| > Do you intend to replace the air-impeding air-door AFM?  I'm told
| something
| > from a 2L Saab may be a suitable replacement. Can you get the AFM from
the
| > car you got the 749 from?
| > Set up the ignition?  Are you swapping the GM distributor in also?  Does
| > the 749 require this swap? I think the 2L electronic distributor and
| module
| > should be fine.  The stock Fiat ignition module is a GM HE4.
| > I found this in the digest, I've been saving it for my conversion:
| > Check any GM A car for aftermarket cruise control. Generator (VSS) is
| > located in
| > the speedo cable splice in the center of the engine compartment along
the
| > firewall. Many 80's A cars have it. Ciera, Century, Celebrity, 6000.
| > ------------------------------------------------------------
| > Bill Shaw
| > '78 FI Spider
| > (Will soon be) Fuel injected and stepping out over the line
| > http://www.connix.com/~bshaw/fiatefi.html
>Hello, I am about to adapt a 1227749 ecm to a Fiat Spider and I had a few
| > >concerns to ask.  One is the Vehicle Speed Sensor, can I do without it,
| do I
| > >need to just tell the ecu it is not there, I noticed in Programmer98
| there
| > >is a function to turn it off, is that all I need to do?  Also, should I
| set
| > >up the ignition of the fuel injection first?  Which one would be
| considered
| > >more stand alone?  One more question, would I be praying too much for
the
| > >car to at least idle and halfway run on a stock rom file?  They are
both
| > >2.0L, Overhead cam.   Or, am I just asking for too much?  Thanks, I
have
| > >been a member of this list just reading for a while and I have finally
| built
| > >up the courage to go and do this.  Thanks, for all of the input.
| > >                           -Scott Flanagan



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 21:23:15 1999
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From: "C. Brooks" <cbrooks1@tqci.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 21:22:29 -0400
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Hey BUDDY, I happen to like my metric hammer! And I do know the difference
between Open, Limited Slip, Locking, and Torsen Differentials too!

;)

Charles Brooks

-----Original Message-----
From: Aaron Willis <darkmonahue@awwwsome.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?


> I constantly encounter people (metric hammer users) who
>insist that "Posi" is a technical term for any non-open diff, while
>"limited slip" means an open diff..."limited" meaning it slips until you
>let off the throttle.  I am thinking of going to the term "UNlimited slip"
>to help clarify this concept...
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 21:30:30 1999
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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 21:23:06 -0700
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Help on op-amp (?) circuit
References: <0FCO00JC572UJE@kauri.lincoln.ac.nz>
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OpAmps and comparators are really two different animals. They can
sometimes be interchanged, but not always. It pays to read the
spec sheets for nuances.

The lm324/lm358 opamp works OK as a comparator. But the bi-fet
devices, such as lf347/tl082 will phase reverse on the output if
one of the inputs gets too close to the rail. Other opamps have
a limited differential input range, and often require lots of
head-room for the p/s rails.

Comparators are typically faster than an opamp (relative cost),
and go from rail to rail on the inputs.

The only caution I have on the lm339 (quad), lm393 (dual) comparator,
is to diode clamp the inputs for protection. Go any lower than
300 mv below ground on the input, and poooofff, no input stage...

Easy for noise to do this.

BobR.


Simon Quested wrote:
> 
> Hi Bruce and All
> 
> > Use a comparotar, something like a 339, I think is the number.  Op-Amps
> > can get twitchy, for enables. Bruce
> 
> So what's the difference between the 2 devices, I have never understood this.
> You can use an op amp for a comparator but not visa versa ?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Simon
> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>   Simon Quested
>   Computer Engineer, Silicon Graphics & Windows NT Support
>   LINCOLN UNIVERSITY OF NEW ZEALAND
>   Phone (64)(03) 3252811 Ext. 8087
> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> A person who smiles in the face of adversity
> .....probably has a scapegoat.
> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 22:45:23 1999
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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 19:49:06 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ross Corrigan <zxv@istar.ca>
Subject: Re: Prowler V6
In-Reply-To: <37520CDB.ED55BE83@grolen.com>
References: <01bea80a$e3c17b80$LocalHost@nwester>
 <374D73B5.A588E9BB@xephic.dynip.com>
 <374DC1E0.6B46@c-com.net>
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>> And forged rods?  forget about it unless ya go to Mr. Pink...

just clean up the OEM ones and shotpeen them and they'll be pink's, FWIW,
pinks start out as the same rod as the common OEM's before a casting
cleanup and shotpeen

>For two years that I know of, there were "Green" rods in a particular
>sb chevy.  Hint, it was the only factory  production smallblock with a
>10k redline.

got me, it was before my time I"m sure

>Pre 67, small journal, small block v8 were all forged cranks.  1968,69
>350, some pickup engines were forged.  (I have two, have sold one
>additional.) 67 engines could be either way, cast or forged crank. 
>Also, there was a 68 or 69 large journal 307 or 327 offered with
>forged crank, tho I don't remember the details.  Just remember going

Line I've been fed is the 300+ (not 300, only above) hp 327's got forged
cranks in the large journal setups.  Read this more than once now in the
chevy mags. Rest large journals were cast.  My serial # matches a 325hp
version but I didn't know enough when I did my quick re and re to check
that part out to verify.  This is only for 327's.

>to a swap meet with a guy who went ape over finding one.  
>Shannen

performance wise, what difference specifically can one expect from a forged
over a cast crank?(yeah I know the forged is stronger etc.. but any
quantitative gain?) 

Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada 

 '80 327ZX   IZCC#255, Edmonton Z-car Club #44, British Columbia ZCR        
Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the
straights

mailto:zxv@istar.ca     *New ICQ # 11549358
http://home.iSTAR.ca/~zxv/index.shtml
http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg    where a
Z belongs

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 22:45:19 1999
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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 19:42:27 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ross Corrigan <zxv@istar.ca>
Subject: late 327's, was Prowler V6
In-Reply-To: <375207EE.37F386A2@grolen.com>
References: <01bea80a$e3c17b80$LocalHost@nwester>
 <374D73B5.A588E9BB@xephic.dynip.com>
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>
>If you're tracking down rumors, ever hear of the 1969 4 bolt 327
>Chebbie?  Rumors are that it was a Canadian built engine.
>Shannen
>

Here's another rumour, many grain combines in the prairies got the heavy
duty 4 bolt 327's at the time and one fella in AB or SA has stockpiled a
few but I moved away from the one fella who fed me that rumour w/o any
contacts etc.

Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada 

 '80 327ZX   IZCC#255, Edmonton Z-car Club #44, British Columbia ZCR        
Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the
straights

mailto:zxv@istar.ca     *New ICQ # 11549358
http://home.iSTAR.ca/~zxv/index.shtml
http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg    where a
Z belongs

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 23:19:55 1999
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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 23:17:20 EDT
Subject: Re: 1227749 Adaptation
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In a message dated 6/1/99 11:54:42 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
flanaj@mindspring.com writes:

>  but the ignition on th 49 is driven by a crank wheel and the whole
>  reason I intend to do all of this is for turbo.

Double check that.  I believe the , the 749 uses the distributor
pickup signal  for the rpm sensing.   There is no crank sensor 
in the 4.3 turbo at least.
HTH
Mike V

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun  1 23:34:39 1999
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From: "Mike Pilkenton" <mpilkent@ptw.com>
To: "DIY-EFI" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 730 program
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 20:34:00 -0700
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    I have a 730 ecm variety from a 92 Camaro 3.1L V6.  Does this ECM have
all the programming and tables located in the EEPROM (MEMCAL) or does it
contain some of the base program in ROM somewhere else on the PCB?

    I'm curious because I need to get it reprogrammed to remove the EGR, AC,
AIR, and VATS functions.

Mike Pilkenton


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 00:43:40 1999
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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 21:05:46 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ross Corrigan <zxv@istar.ca>
Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
In-Reply-To: <37540870.692B@c-com.net>
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At 09:21 AM 6/1/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Makes sense to me....
>
>Personally, I'd rather have the 'lag' and more power as well as less
>thermal stress on the engine than the alternative...
>
>In dragracing, if runnin an automatic, turbo lag is not an issue, due to
>power braking prior to launching at the startin line gettin rid of the
>initial lag....
>
>Cool?

Could be  a stick if equipped w/ the 'electromotive'? (or motec?  not my
forte but read a long winded tech article), one such EFI control system
(very $$$$) allows the exhaust to leak past the valve at idle to create
'some' idle boost.  Serious drag stuff I assume.

Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada 

 '80 327ZX   IZCC#255, Edmonton Z-car Club #44, British Columbia ZCR        
Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the
straights

mailto:zxv@istar.ca     *New ICQ # 11549358
http://home.iSTAR.ca/~zxv/index.shtml
http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg    where a
Z belongs

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 01:19:25 1999
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Hi Mike

All the code on the main mpu is in the calibration pak.
Make sure you get a calpak for a V8 application if you are gonna
run a V8, V6 calpaks don't work

About the only thing you gotta worry bout is vats and maybe the egr error
bit

None of the other stuff is required

gl:peter


    I have a 730 ecm variety from a 92 Camaro 3.1L V6.  Does this ECM have
all the programming and tables located in the EEPROM (MEMCAL) or does it
contain some of the base program in ROM somewhere else on the PCB?

    I'm curious because I need to get it reprogrammed to remove the EGR, AC,
AIR, and VATS functions.



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 04:08:10 1999
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From: William T Wilson <fluffy@snurgle.org>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
In-Reply-To: <00ae01beac96$61cf4cc0$96bec7cf@l9m4y6>
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On Tue, 1 Jun 1999, C. Brooks wrote:

> Hey BUDDY, I happen to like my metric hammer! And I do know the difference
> between Open, Limited Slip, Locking, and Torsen Differentials too!

That's right.  Open is the kind I have scattered around on my garage
floor.  Limited Slip is when there isn't very much oil in it.  Locking is
what happens when an automatic transmission is in park, and Torsen is
named after Mr. Norberg Torsen who invented that special kind of mechanism
(he was Swedish).

This is simple stuff :}


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 04:09:26 1999
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To: "Electronic Fuel Injection list" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Cc: <jeeperaz@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Fw: Any Jeep owners?
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 22:43:21 -0700
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This is the setup I am looking for, coupled with a turbo 350 or 400 and a
short rear driveshaft.

I know of a guy who took an LT1 out of a wreched firebird and put it in a
cj5
Computer mounted behind the dash.

----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Maggio <jeeperaz@bigfoot.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Sunday, May 30, 1999 9:30 PM
Subject: Any Jeep owners?


Looking for any Jeep CJ or YJ owners who have swapped in a EFI'ed 350.

Larry




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 05:21:44 1999
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From: "Geffro" <geoffsue@one.net.au>
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Subject: AFR Meter
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I was told a while ago that AFR meters have a limited lifespan due 
to the conditions they operate in
If this is the case why dont 02 sensors have to be replaced every
250 hrs (or whatever the lifespan of the meters is)
Are the 02 sensors just another way of measuring the AFR or not?
Co(2)nfused
Geoff


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 05:28:46 1999
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Hi folks
I've been searching the diy--efi website without much luck
Have read prog 101 but i dont understand any of it
eg

The PROM has tables and some program code. It maps into processor space
from 0xd000 to 0xdfff. The ROM appears in the processor space from 0xe000 to
0xffff. Data space in the PROM is from 0x000 to 0x616. Code starts at 0x617
and continues to the end of the PROM, 0xfff.

So to learn this where do i go ?
I have collected a few proms that I'd like to read.
 So can you good folk
tell me what I need
Is a prom reader an emulator and burner?cause i'd like to buy one
whatever so i can start to work thiis out
Cheers
Geoff


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 08:59:22 1999
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 07:39:04 -0700
From: "Todd....!!" <atc347@c-com.net>
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Subject: Re: Prowler V6
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Will do Peter,

However, reason I tried Sears was cuz I had about $12 of credit with em
from a trade in deal(Misplaced/Lost the receipt, they only give credit
when that happens)

Will try the Depot...

Thanks for the reference...

LATER!

Todd....!!

Peter D. Hipson wrote:
> 
> You've got it. Understanding is a wonderful thing, isn't it? BTW, I think
> Sears is out of the metric ones, try Home Depot's tool section (Husky).
> 
> At 09:39 AM 6/1/99 -0700, you wrote:
> >So, if I understand correctly we'll need a metric magnet in order to
> >tell whether our pistons are aluminum or not?
> >
> >Just checkin....
> >
> >LATER!
> >
> >Todd....
> >
> >C. Brooks wrote:
> >>
> >> You're TOO cruel, SnapOn doesn't carry metric magnets... But Craftsman does
> >> :)
> >>
> >> Charles Brooks
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
> >> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> >> Date: Friday, May 28, 1999 7:37 PM
> >> Subject: Re: Prowler V6
> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >On Fri, 28 May 1999, Todd....!! wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> Anybody in here ever ran FORGED steel pistons?  or do most of ya'll only
> >> >> run CAST iron pistons?
> >> >>
> >> >> Just wonderin what kinda answers I'll get from this....
> >> >>
> >> >> I run forged hypereutectic myself, but a magnet won't stick to ANY of
> >> >> em!
> >> >>
> >> >> Anyone know why?
> >> >>
> >> >You have to use a special magnet for these. Try SnapOn...
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> Thanks,
>         Peter Hipson (founder, NEHOG)
>         1995 White NA Hummer Wagon


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 09:06:19 1999
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From: "Todd....!!" <atc347@c-com.net>
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Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
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Jim,

I'm now mostly a Mopar man, and have a Dana 60 which has a FULL POSI
most of the time, the posi only 'breaks' when doing a slow tight turn...
sometimes you can actually hear the clutches 'break'/slip during this
procedure...

Whereas the Chev type limited slips are only posi's when ya need it,
i.e. under high load and such...

In comes that GN that was spinnin only ONE tire around the turns (the
lighter weighted tire, i.e. inside turn tire) when the boost came
in...(He spun out several times due to the need to spin in order to even
come close to qualifying for further runs...needless to say, he didn't
make the cut)

Then ya have the 8 3/4 auburn locker, that has no clutches, just some
sorta cone thing... never really looked at one, buddy jsut bought a
brand spankin new auburn for his 8 3/4 when he swapped his 4.10's out
for 3.23's! it seems to work pretty good, he's only pushin about a 
stock 383 in his 70 Bee, so there's not much power to tell, ya know...

LATER!

Todd....
http://www.c-com.net/~atc347/toddlnk.htm

Jim Davies wrote:
> 
> On Tue, 1 Jun 1999, Todd....!! wrote:
> 
> > I thought all GN's were posi's, this one musta been a limited slip or
> > somethin...
> >
> I'll bite...whats the difference?


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 09:54:40 1999
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 08:06:49 -0700
From: "Todd....!!" <atc347@c-com.net>
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Subject: Re: Getting loans.. (WAY off topic)
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Well alex,

One goal in messing with money is to NOT have to pay ANY interest, at
least not on a destructive debt, such as interest on a loan that is used
to purchase an item that goes down in value or is merely used up, like
an expensive vacation or expensive meal or night out on the town, that's
known as DESTRUCTIVE DEBT and should be avoided at all costs...

Constructive debt is an entire different story, however.  Such as using
a loan to purchase an item/items which are increasing in value, such as
property or maybe even a stock or mutual fund, if you can get a good
enough interest rate....

One way some people look at getting rich, or even just making a little
bit of money is to use others people money to make YOU money!  This will
most likely cost you interest on the borrowed funds...

I may recommend ya'll checkin out Russ Whitney's system.  I'm in the
process right now of checking him and his system's out, he has a LOT of
well explained(Down to the penny and individual step) procedures for
making a real personal fortune as well as helping distressed people out
at the same time!

I'll be funding my F.I. and turbo projects with income from rentals and
the like...

May even talk Dadio into goin into a partnership with me on a lil
convenience store that's ready to sell for starting at $15,000 asking
price...

The GREAT part is that this store is RIGHT in front of Dad's REALLY
expensively priced subdivision.... Could sell anything from crystal to
Rolex's to King Cobra golf clubs and the like (the subdivision has a
REALLY nice 18 hole golf course and club n all)

AND, of course, I'll just HAVE to have my Hi-Po parts section of the
store for a few Hi-Po knick knacks, like a set or two of Indy heads,
Brodix(for the Chev dudes), and Dart heads n the like for the Mush-tang
dudes as well...

If ya'll can think of some other things that are popular these dayzzz
please let me know?

Thanks!

Todd....

----------
xxalexx@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> 
> How would this work with credit cards?
> I just got sent some low interest convience checks.
> Since I work on call no steady income I have at times
> transfered funds around rather quickly, last time I bounced
> a few credit card payments and credit card  said ok,
> to no service charge and extended my payment another
> month.
> alex
> 
> > I hear that William,
> >
> > And you are correct as far as the way it works where the money borrowed
> > is collateralized by CASH in their bank!
> >
> > Will let ya know if it works out good or bad or null...
> >
> > LATER!
> >
> > Todd....
> >
> > --------
> >
> > William T Wilson wrote:
> > >
> > > On Fri, 28 May 1999, David A. Cooley wrote:
> > >
> > > > >So, what's Check Kiting?
> > > >
> > > > That's where you write a check, buy something get cash back, deposit the
> > > > cash in the bank, write another check etc... basically trying to write
> > > > checks and deposit the money to stay ahead of all the checks because there
> > >
> > > The difference is that with check kiting, if they catch you, you will end
> > > up without enough money to cover it all.
> > >
> > > In this little credit-building scheme, even if you stop making payments
> > > altogether, nobody is out any money because you put the money up in the
> > > first place.
> > >
> > > > of the loan and puts you in default.  the money has to stay there
> > > > until the loan is paid off.
> > >
> > > It does, because you are using the money you borrowed from bank A as the
> > > collateral for bank B.  No particular dollar actually gets used twice.
> >
> >
> >
> >



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 09:54:47 1999
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References: <199906011442.AA3742499424@mail.tqci.net> <3.0.6.32.19990601130750.007ad280@sal.awwwsome.com> <37545CD5.C07073A7@xephic.dynip.com> <375463AC.96902240@ix.netcom.com>
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Man Bill,

You SURE know your sae to Metric conversions!

That sounds about right!

And seeing as how most of freds rides are American built n all, I'd have
to say that he was REALLY only 3/4 serious...

LATER!

Todd....

--------

Bill Edgeworth wrote:
> 
> >
> >
> > Yeah, I was laughing, but I was 3/4 serious too :)  Them damn flywheel
> > bolts.
> 
> Was that 3/4 serious or 19mm serious??? Think metric!!!



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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 08:12:33 -0700
From: "Todd....!!" <atc347@c-com.net>
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Hey BobR!

Thanks for that link man!

A penny saved is a penny earned, right?

I dunno about rebuilt injectors though!

Are they as reliable and accurate as the new one's?

I may have to experience this for myself, especially if the rebuilt
injectors are about half the cost of the new one's!

Have pulled up the site, looks great...

Wonder if they have warranties on their injectors?

LATER!

Thanks again!

Todd....

---------

rr wrote:
> 
> Try these guys:
> 
> Linder Technical Services (317-487-1868 or www.lindertech.com)
> 
> If I remember correctly, he also sells re-conditioned injectors
> at a good price.
> 
> BobR.
> 
> AzDatsun@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Anyone have a reliable source for reasonably priced injectors. I am looking
> > for 32-35 lb. per Hr. low impedence type. Any info greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Lance
> >
> > New to list.



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 09:54:49 1999
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This MUSt be true about the hemisphere's n all...

I'v eheard that the toilets flush BACKWARDS in Australia, vs. the US..

Anyone ever experience this personally?

Just a wonderinnnnn foooooooooo.......

Todd....

---------

dzorde@erggroup.com wrote:
> 
> make sure you get the one suitable for your location, either the northern
> hemisphere or the southern hemisphere.
> 
> Dan  dzorde@erggroup.com
> 
> "Todd....!!" <atc347@c-com.net> on 02-06-99 12:11:32 AM
> 
> Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> 
> To:   diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> cc:    (bcc: Dan Zorde/Transit/ERG_Group)
> 
> Subject:  Re: Prowler V6
> 
> HAHA, good n Jim...
> 
> I'll try n find that 'special' magnet man!
> 
> Todd....



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 09:54:42 1999
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References: <025001bea0ce$46c252c0$42198fd1@nacelp> <374F391F.AEEE209A@xephic.dynip.com> <37540BC2.1D78@c-com.net> <375419E9.4742B34E@xephic.dynip.com> <375455EB.68C@c-com.net> <37545D60.ABE2A592@xephic.dynip.com>
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Hey Fred,

Are you usin a 110 Mig welder to weld your patch panels are are ya just
leadin em in or just brazin?

I'm lookin at getten a lil 110 mig for the house, and am lookin into em
right now...

Have a few projects I want to do that will require weldin, and I don't
wanna keep on borrowin the neighbors... ya know?

LATER!

Todd....



Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
> > I'm about to 'paint' my jag the same way, if not worse!
> 
> Hopefully better.  Next weekend I'll take the time and finish it right,
> let it bake in the sun for a week, then clear coat it and I'll have a
> decent shine.  Friend's body shop offered to clear it for me, so that
> makes my life easier.  I've cut off all the rust and welded in patch
> panels, and a little bondo here and there, maybe 2 oz total on the
> truck.  At least that I've added.
> 
> > But ANYTHING would make er look better than the sorry peelin job it has
> > currently!
> 
> I jsut got sick of the beige paint, and the beige paint peeling.  It was
> repainted several times without scratching the underlayers or using
> primer, but I knew this when I bought it.



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 09:54:51 1999
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From: "Todd....!!" <atc347@c-com.net>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
References: <00ae01beac96$61cf4cc0$96bec7cf@l9m4y6>
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Hey C.

Does the Dana 60's posi unit fall within any of the four types of rears
ya mentioned?  And if so, which?  it has clutches... whereas the 8 3/4
posi's have either clutches or the cone(non-clutch) type posi...

Just wonderinnnnnnnn.....

Todd....

----------

C. Brooks wrote:
> 
> Hey BUDDY, I happen to like my metric hammer! And I do know the difference
> between Open, Limited Slip, Locking, and Torsen Differentials too!
> 
> ;)
> 
> Charles Brooks
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Aaron Willis <darkmonahue@awwwsome.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 8:44 PM
> Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
> 
> > I constantly encounter people (metric hammer users) who
> >insist that "Posi" is a technical term for any non-open diff, while
> >"limited slip" means an open diff..."limited" meaning it slips until you
> >let off the throttle.  I am thinking of going to the term "UNlimited slip"
> >to help clarify this concept...
> >



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 09:58:18 1999
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Subject: SUN Scope
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 08:53:59 -0500 
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I was given a SUN  820 engine tester with a model SS-80 scope. I plan to use
the scope with a SUN 404 distributor machine to spin
an HEI and  bench test a 747.  The SS-80 has a bad power transformer
(shorted primary) does any one have schematics or repair 
manuals for SUN automotive test equipment. The SS-80 has a limit of 40KV but
I figure a simple voltage divider will extend that.
 
Thanks for any help
 
Don
     

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 10:40:26 1999
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Hmm, maybe I was wrong. I always considered "Limited Slip diff" as the one that leaked just enough oil that when I walked by, one foot would slip out from under me and I'd smack my chin on the trunk lid or the bumper.

Charles Brooks

---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@snurgle.org>
Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 04:06:50 -0400 (EDT)

>On Tue, 1 Jun 1999, C. Brooks wrote:

> Hey BUDDY, I happen to like my metric hammer! And I do know the difference
> between Open, Limited Slip, Locking, and Torsen Differentials too!

That's right.  Open is the kind I have scattered around on my garage
floor.  Limited Slip is when there isn't very much oil in it.  Locking is
what happens when an automatic transmission is in park, and Torsen is
named after Mr. Norberg Torsen who invented that special kind of mechanism
(he was Swedish).

This is simple stuff :}



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 10:48:32 1999
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Geffro wrote:
> 
> Hi folks
> I've been searching the diy--efi website without much luck
> Have read prog 101 but i dont understand any of it
> eg
> 
> The PROM has tables and some program code. It maps into processor space
> from 0xd000 to 0xdfff. The ROM appears in the processor space from 0xe000 to
> 0xffff. Data space in the PROM is from 0x000 to 0x616. Code starts at 0x617
> and continues to the end of the PROM, 0xfff.
> 
> So to learn this where do i go ?

Well, I hate to say it but read through the archives, searching for
programming 101.  Also read the tuning tips document which describes how
it all works together.  And pay attention to what comes across the gmecm
list.

Also download some of the 747 bins and run them through either promedit
or tuna.  That way you can actually see some of the tables, see how
spark timing varies by load and rpm, etc.

> I have collected a few proms that I'd like to read.
>  So can you good folk
> tell me what I need
> Is a prom reader an emulator and burner?cause i'd like to buy one

A reader/programmer is different from an emulator.  You need a
reader/programmer, the emulator is nice but not necessary.

--steve

> whatever so i can start to work thiis out
> Cheers
> Geoff

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 11:19:13 1999
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Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
References: <Pine.A41.3.96.990601131327.44752B-100000@vcc11.vcc.bc.ca> <375543A6.3477@c-com.net>
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Or you could have had fun with one of the earlier "Detroit Lockers" that had
a mechanical ratchet mechanism that would make a loud ratcheting noise every
time you turned a corner. It made for a car that was a real "head turner"
from the pedestrians - loud clanking and ratcheting noises.
rap

"Todd....!!" wrote:

> Jim,
>
> I'm now mostly a Mopar man, and have a Dana 60 which has a FULL POSI
> most of the time, the posi only 'breaks' when doing a slow tight turn...
> sometimes you can actually hear the clutches 'break'/slip during this
> procedure...
>
> Whereas the Chev type limited slips are only posi's when ya need it,
> i.e. under high load and such...
>
> In comes that GN that was spinnin only ONE tire around the turns (the
> lighter weighted tire, i.e. inside turn tire) when the boost came
> in...(He spun out several times due to the need to spin in order to even
> come close to qualifying for further runs...needless to say, he didn't
> make the cut)
>
> Then ya have the 8 3/4 auburn locker, that has no clutches, just some
> sorta cone thing... never really looked at one, buddy jsut bought a
> brand spankin new auburn for his 8 3/4 when he swapped his 4.10's out
> for 3.23's! it seems to work pretty good, he's only pushin about a
> stock 383 in his 70 Bee, so there's not much power to tell, ya know...
>
> LATER!
>
> Todd....
> http://www.c-com.net/~atc347/toddlnk.htm
>
> Jim Davies wrote:
> >
> > On Tue, 1 Jun 1999, Todd....!! wrote:
> >
> > > I thought all GN's were posi's, this one musta been a limited slip or
> > > somethin...
> > >
> > I'll bite...whats the difference?


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References: <199906011442.AA3742499424@mail.tqci.net> <3.0.6.32.19990601130750.007ad280@sal.awwwsome.com> <37545CD5.C07073A7@xephic.dynip.com> <375463AC.96902240@ix.netcom.com> <37554A30.176B@c-com.net>
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> Man Bill,
>
> You SURE know your sae to Metric conversions!
>
> That sounds about right!
>

I've been working on European built plastics machinery for many years, all
metric. a lot of the metric stuff Snap-On does not even make (try buying a 65
mm wrench from Snap-On) have to buy German stuff (they don't make theirs out
of unobtanium)

> And seeing as how most of freds rides are American built n all, I'd have
> to say that he was REALLY only 3/4 serious...
>
>

A lot of newer american cars are now using a mix of metric and standard in
their cars. Oddly though these sizes seem different than what standards are in
the rest of the world. For instance most european hex head fasteners have head
sizes 10,13,17,19,22,24,27mm not sizes like 15 mm and 18 mm
Anybody know why? are these maybe JIS (Japanese) as opposed to DIN (German)
standards?
Or did the american auto manufacturers buy stock in the tool companies?

Bill Edgeworth


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 12:15:37 1999
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From: "SPECTRO COATING CORP." <spectro@ma.ultranet.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
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>
>Does the Dana 60's posi unit fall within any of the four types of rears
>ya mentioned?  And if so, which?  it has clutches... whereas the 8 3/4
>posi's have either clutches or the cone(non-clutch) type posi...
>
Start calling a Chrysler limited slip rear a "Sure Grip" or the Mopar guys
are going to have a cow....


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 12:27:48 1999
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Actually - Torsen was the manufacturer - Bob (I think that's his first name)
Gleason invented that differential design. Zexel was the manufacturer last i
knew.

Just my $.02 worth - Jason
>
>That's right.  Open is the kind I have scattered around on my garage
>floor.  Limited Slip is when there isn't very much oil in it.  Locking is
>what happens when an automatic transmission is in park, and Torsen is
>named after Mr. Norberg Torsen who invented that special kind of mechanism
>(he was Swedish).
>
>This is simple stuff :}
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 13:22:23 1999
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 12:19:06 -0500 
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I have tried to down load the 747 Bins into promedit but had zero luck. Is
there a procedure to copy a bin then load it into 
promedit ? I do not have any experience with these programs. 
                                                        Thanks for your help



> -----Original Message-----
> From:	steve ravet [SMTP:Steve.Ravet@arm.com]
> Sent:	Wednesday, June 02, 1999 9:45 AM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: 
> 
> 
> 
> Geffro wrote:
> > 
> > Hi folks
> > I've been searching the diy--efi website without much luck
> > Have read prog 101 but i dont understand any of it
> > eg
> > 
> > The PROM has tables and some program code. It maps into processor space
> > from 0xd000 to 0xdfff. The ROM appears in the processor space from
> 0xe000 to
> > 0xffff. Data space in the PROM is from 0x000 to 0x616. Code starts at
> 0x617
> > and continues to the end of the PROM, 0xfff.
> > 
> > So to learn this where do i go ?
> 
> Well, I hate to say it but read through the archives, searching for
> programming 101.  Also read the tuning tips document which describes how
> it all works together.  And pay attention to what comes across the gmecm
> list.
> 
> Also download some of the 747 bins and run them through either promedit
> or tuna.  That way you can actually see some of the tables, see how
> spark timing varies by load and rpm, etc.
> 
> > I have collected a few proms that I'd like to read.
> >  So can you good folk
> > tell me what I need
> > Is a prom reader an emulator and burner?cause i'd like to buy one
> 
> A reader/programmer is different from an emulator.  You need a
> reader/programmer, the emulator is nice but not necessary.
> 
> --steve
> 
> > whatever so i can start to work thiis out
> > Cheers
> > Geoff
> 
> -- 
> Steve Ravet
> steve.ravet@arm.com
> Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
> www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 13:47:10 1999
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From: "Charles  Brooks" <cbrooks1@mail.tqci.net>
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Subject: Re: Types of differentials/Traction aiding devices
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Please understand this is not meant as a sarcastic reply!

The type of posi is NOT dictated by the type of rear it's in or made for. There are limited slip, Torsen and locking differentials made for the Dana 60. If you want to know what type of unit is in the rear you'll have to actually look at it.

Charles Brooks


---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Todd....!!" <atc347@c-com.net>
Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 08:24:17 -0700

>Hey C.

Does the Dana 60's posi unit fall within any of the four types of rears
ya mentioned?  And if so, which?  it has clutches... whereas the 8 3/4
posi's have either clutches or the cone(non-clutch) type posi...

Just wonderinnnnnnnn.....

Todd....

----------

C. Brooks wrote:
> 
> Hey BUDDY, I happen to like my metric hammer! And I do know the difference
> between Open, Limited Slip, Locking, and Torsen Differentials too!
> 
> ;)
> 
> Charles Brooks


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 13:53:51 1999
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From: "David Sagers" <dls2867@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: LT1 Manifold Part Number?
Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 10:53:18 PDT
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I have an LT1 intake manifold with the casting number 10108630, anyone know 
how to get a part number from the casting number, or how to tell if this is 
a Vette or F-Body part?


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 13:57:29 1999
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 10:57:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Squash <realsquash@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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I have a mechanical locker (lock-right) in my truck...
 Squeals going around corners under any power...

Andy

--- ".." <rap@aci.net> wrote:
> Or you could have had fun with one of the earlier
> "Detroit Lockers" that had
> a mechanical ratchet mechanism that would make a
> loud ratcheting noise every
> time you turned a corner. It made for a car that was
> a real "head turner"
> from the pedestrians - loud clanking and ratcheting
> noises.
> rap
> 
> "Todd....!!" wrote:
> 
> > Jim,
> >
> > I'm now mostly a Mopar man, and have a Dana 60
> which has a FULL POSI
> > most of the time, the posi only 'breaks' when
> doing a slow tight turn...
> > sometimes you can actually hear the clutches
> 'break'/slip during this
> > procedure...
> >
> > Whereas the Chev type limited slips are only
> posi's when ya need it,
> > i.e. under high load and such...
> >
> > In comes that GN that was spinnin only ONE tire
> around the turns (the
> > lighter weighted tire, i.e. inside turn tire) when
> the boost came
> > in...(He spun out several times due to the need to
> spin in order to even
> > come close to qualifying for further
> runs...needless to say, he didn't
> > make the cut)
> >
> > Then ya have the 8 3/4 auburn locker, that has no
> clutches, just some
> > sorta cone thing... never really looked at one,
> buddy jsut bought a
> > brand spankin new auburn for his 8 3/4 when he
> swapped his 4.10's out
> > for 3.23's! it seems to work pretty good, he's
> only pushin about a
> > stock 383 in his 70 Bee, so there's not much power
> to tell, ya know...
> >
> > LATER!
> >
> > Todd....
> > http://www.c-com.net/~atc347/toddlnk.htm
> >
> > Jim Davies wrote:
> > >
> > > On Tue, 1 Jun 1999, Todd....!! wrote:
> > >
> > > > I thought all GN's were posi's, this one musta
> been a limited slip or
> > > > somethin...
> > > >
> > > I'll bite...whats the difference?
> 
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


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From: gervais@rtrman.engr.sgi.com (Joe Gervais)
Message-Id: <9906021134.ZM17178@rtrman.engr.sgi.com>
In-Reply-To: "David Sagers" <dls2867@hotmail.com>
        "LT1 Manifold Part Number?" (Jun  2, 10:53am)
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On Jun 2, 10:53am, David Sagers wrote:
> Subject: LT1 Manifold Part Number?
> I have an LT1 intake manifold with the casting number 10108630, anyone know
> how to get a part number from the casting number, or how to tell if this is
> a Vette or F-Body part?

Do you have just the bare manifold, or also the fuel rails? The manifolds are
identical, the difference is whether the fuel rails have the fuel line
connection on the left (f-body) or right (vette). There was also a difference
in 95 I believe, when the fuel rail started crossing on the front of the
manifold. Earlier manifolds didn't have the fuel connection crossing the top of
the manifold several inches behind the throttle body.

Joe

-- 
_________________________________________________________________________
Joe Gervais                   gervais@sgi.com
Product Line Manager          (650) 933-7479 voice
High Performance Networking   (650) 932-7479 fax

SGI              		www.sgi.com
1600 Amphitheater Parkway, Mail Stop 855, Mountain View, CA 94043

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 14:46:41 1999
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Subject: Re: LT1 Manifold Part Number?
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> 
> I have an LT1 intake manifold with the casting number 10108630, anyone know 
> how to get a part number from the casting number, or how to tell if this is 
> a Vette or F-Body part?
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
B
>

Well, I think the f-body manifold and the corvette one are the same. 
Now the question would be is it a 92-93 manifold or a 94-97 manifold.  
The 92-93 does not have fuel crossover behind the TB, where the 94-97 
does.  Other than that the manifolds are identical.

			Roger  


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 15:07:37 1999
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 15:07:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
Subject: Re: Prowler V6
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Previously, you (Bill Edgeworth) wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > Man Bill,
> >
> > You SURE know your sae to Metric conversions!
> >
> > That sounds about right!
> >
> 
> I've been working on European built plastics machinery for many years, all
> metric. a lot of the metric stuff Snap-On does not even make (try buying a 65
> mm wrench from Snap-On) have to buy German stuff (they don't make theirs out
> of unobtanium)

I think I saw one ( in the snapon cat.) years ago

> 
> > And seeing as how most of freds rides are American built n all, I'd have
> > to say that he was REALLY only 3/4 serious...
> >
> >
> 
> A lot of newer american cars are now using a mix of metric and standard in
> their cars. Oddly though these sizes seem different than what standards are in
> the rest of the world. For instance most european hex head fasteners have head
> sizes 10,13,17,19,22,24,27mm not sizes like 15 mm and 18 mm

french cars really suck for oddball sizes, most of the Canadian built GMs
went to semi metric some time around '80. 

> Anybody know why? are these maybe JIS (Japanese) as opposed to DIN (German)
> standards?
> Or did the american auto manufacturers buy stock in the tool companies?

I think they wanted all the tools to be supplied by them, not just diagnostic
stuff 

> Bill Edgeworth
> 

--
Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8


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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 20:08:36 +0100
From: Chris Wilson <chris@formula3.demon.co.uk>
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Hello EFI,

I am about to remove the 2 cats from my Supra twin turbo (1994) to
alleviate any restriction, but I have a question. Currently, there is
an O2 sender just after the 2 turbos join at a common outlet point,
then a pre cat, then a bit of plain pipe, with what *appears* to be a
second 02 sender, and about 2 feet further back, a second, main cat.

Out of curiosity I removed the second 02 sensor, and it appears to be
a simple straight stick, about 3 sixteenths inch diameter, where it
enters the exhaust stream. Is it an 02 sensor, or some sort of
temperature probe? The car is a Jap import, hence Japanese spec,
slightly different to US and Europe spec Supras, in that the turbos
are smaller, have ceramic turbine wheels, and the air flow is measured
by a vane type AFM, but uses a MAP sensor.

If I remove both cats, and make up a plain pipe section to replace
them, and re fit both (what I assume to be...) 02 sensors, how will
the ECU react??? I assume it will be happy, as it seem,s a common
enough mod. But why 2 02 sensors in the first place?

Thanks, I'd better ask before cutting .... :-)

-- 

Best Regards,
 Chris                          

mailto:chris@formula3.demon.co.uk

http://www.formula3.demon.co.uk

Performance car sales at http://www.formula3.demon.co.uk/forsale.htm



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 15:12:23 1999
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 15:12:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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better yet is an airlocker (ARB), I has a pair in my landrover. push a button 
and swish everything turns.

 looks funny as hell if you drop a front wheel in an ice fishing hole, you end up 
doing wild dougnuts until that wheel pops up and then who knows where you'll stop


Previously, you (..) wrote:
> Or you could have had fun with one of the earlier "Detroit Lockers" that had
> a mechanical ratchet mechanism that would make a loud ratcheting noise every
> time you turned a corner. It made for a car that was a real "head turner"
> from the pedestrians - loud clanking and ratcheting noises.
> rap
> 
> "Todd....!!" wrote:
> 
> > Jim,
> >
> > I'm now mostly a Mopar man, and have a Dana 60 which has a FULL POSI
> > most of the time, the posi only 'breaks' when doing a slow tight turn...
> > sometimes you can actually hear the clutches 'break'/slip during this
> > procedure...
> >
> > Whereas the Chev type limited slips are only posi's when ya need it,
> > i.e. under high load and such...
> >
> > In comes that GN that was spinnin only ONE tire around the turns (the
> > lighter weighted tire, i.e. inside turn tire) when the boost came
> > in...(He spun out several times due to the need to spin in order to even
> > come close to qualifying for further runs...needless to say, he didn't
> > make the cut)
> >
> > Then ya have the 8 3/4 auburn locker, that has no clutches, just some
> > sorta cone thing... never really looked at one, buddy jsut bought a
> > brand spankin new auburn for his 8 3/4 when he swapped his 4.10's out
> > for 3.23's! it seems to work pretty good, he's only pushin about a
> > stock 383 in his 70 Bee, so there's not much power to tell, ya know...
> >
> > LATER!
> >
> > Todd....
> > http://www.c-com.net/~atc347/toddlnk.htm
> >
> > Jim Davies wrote:
> > >
> > > On Tue, 1 Jun 1999, Todd....!! wrote:
> > >
> > > > I thought all GN's were posi's, this one musta been a limited slip or
> > > > somethin...
> > > >
> > > I'll bite...whats the difference?
> 

--
Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 15:25:05 1999
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 20:25:12 +0100
From: Chris Wilson <chris@formula3.demon.co.uk>
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Subject: Mugen ECU question and ID ?
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Hello EFI,

  I have an ECU from a Mugen Honda Formula 3 engine, of circa 1988
  vintage. I am told it is closely based onm an early 80's Honda road
  car unit, maybe the Accord. There is a single LED that flashes fault
  codes, and although it is almost certainly in a custome Mugen case,
  with MIL standard connectors, and a PROM access window, the board
  may be a standard unit. I have one good one, and one dead one. Could
  any Honda gurus have a look at 3 pictures of the unit on my web
  pages, and see if they can ID it? What are the chances of it being
  repairable? It is totally dead, and flashes a 10 flash fault code,
  which I believe means no trigger signal. There is in fact a trigger
  signal, substituting another ECU results in a fully functioning
  system.

  Any ideas who / where could fix it? Mugen consider this a dinosaur,
  and have no interest. It would be worth my while spending a fair
  amount of money in getting it fixed.

  Thanks. Pictures are:

  http://www.formula3.demon.co.uk/mugen1.jpg

  http://www.formula3.demon.co.uk/mugen2.jpg

  http://www.formula3.demon.co.uk/mugen3.jpg

  The battery shown is an AA cell, for size comparison.

  Thanks for *any* help :-)
  

-- 

Best Regards,
 Chris                          

mailto:chris@formula3.demon.co.uk

http://www.formula3.demon.co.uk

Performance car sales at http://www.formula3.demon.co.uk/forsale.htm



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 15:25:27 1999
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Is the Dana 60 considered a Sure Grip?  Or just a posi?

Don't know what to call it, now that I think about it, anybody?

LATER!

Todd....

--------

SPECTRO COATING CORP. wrote:
> 
> >
> >Does the Dana 60's posi unit fall within any of the four types of rears
> >ya mentioned?  And if so, which?  it has clutches... whereas the 8 3/4
> >posi's have either clutches or the cone(non-clutch) type posi...
> >
> Start calling a Chrysler limited slip rear a "Sure Grip" or the Mopar guys
> are going to have a cow....


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 15:26:31 1999
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From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
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Jim Davies wrote:
> 
> On Mon, 31 May 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote:
> 
> > Pre 67, small journal, small block v8 were all forged cranks.
> 
> GM listed, and I have seen both cast and forged ESB cranks. FWIW, GM had
> two main block castings, a 283 and 327 type. Some 283s started out as 327
> castings, with the block reliefs for the 3.25 stroke crank.
Never seen it, doesn't mean it's not so.  Seems like different parts
of the country had different "standard parts" in the engines.  Fer
example, lotsa 4 bolt 350s in MT, not so many in MA.
I have a cast 283 crank in my EFI'd 302.  It's from a 67 though. 
Funny stuff in 67, spin on filters, no internal vent canister, no
machining for crankcase vent tube, but only on some engines.  I don't
know what the connection is, except maybe California emissions.
I've seen the notched 283 engines.  I can identify the source of one
as a GMC truck.  
Sorry, back to EFI...
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 15:29:41 1999
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References: <199906011442.AA3742499424@mail.tqci.net> <3.0.6.32.19990601130750.007ad280@sal.awwwsome.com> <37545CD5.C07073A7@xephic.dynip.com> <375463AC.96902240@ix.netcom.com> <37554A30.176B@c-com.net>
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> And seeing as how most of freds rides are American built n all, I'd have
> to say that he was REALLY only 3/4 serious...

Are you kidding?  The Lincoln uses more metric than SAE!!!  The 75
Dodge truck is all SAE of course.

-- 

Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport CT 06606

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)

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eclark@hoser.com wrote:
> 
> On Mon, 31 May 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote:
> 
> > Scott Feaver wrote:
> > >
> > > Is there a site somewhere that lists this info?
> >
> > Yes.  This site lists info for 93 and newer.  There may be something
> > for older cars also, but I haven't looked for it.
> > http://calid.gm.com/vci/
> >
> 
> I've seen that url passed around the fourth-gen f-body list, but it only
> covers reprogrammable PCM's.  Doesnt give any info for cars with removable
> proms.
> 
> -Eric
VCI is the acronym used by GM with their through-the-scantool
reprogramming system.  Didn't even think to mention it.
Shannen


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> The type of posi is NOT dictated by the type of rear it's in or made for. There are limited slip, Torsen and locking differentials made for the Dana 60. If you want to know what type of unit is in the rear you'll have to actually look at it.

And this is not a sarcastic response, either :)

I'd highly recommend an ARB airlocker for this rear.  direct bolt in,
easy to control with a pushbutton, and totally open when needed.


-- 

Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport CT 06606

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 15:41:57 1999
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rr wrote:
> 
> Jim Davies wrote:
> >
> > On Mon, 31 May 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote:
> >
> > > Pre 67, small journal, small block v8 were all forged cranks.
> >
> > GM listed, and I have seen both cast and forged ESB cranks. FWIW, GM had
> > two main block castings, a 283 and 327 type. Some 283s started out as 327
> > castings, with the block reliefs for the 3.25 stroke crank.
> 
> A 283 in a 327 block had those nice thick cylinder walls to make
> lots of power with...
> 
> Never forget the sound of a 287 (30 ovr), at 7500 rpm, yeooooo.
> 
> BobR.
> 
> --
Some of the guys I know would search for the right 283 block so they
could run them at +.120.  Stock car guys called it a 301, Chevy called
it a 302.
Shannen


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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 15:41:25 -0400
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic@xephic.dynip.com>
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> Are you usin a 110 Mig welder to weld your patch panels are are ya just
> leadin em in or just brazin?

I purchased last fall a Lincoln 170T wire-feed MIG welder, which uses
220V at about 45 amps if I remember the data on the cord correctly...
installed a 60A 220V industrial outlet (versus a dryer outlet) and
gave it its own breaker.

> I'm lookin at getten a lil 110 mig for the house, and am lookin into em
> right now...

I checked them out as well... and didn't really like any of them for
my application, which is building a mid-engine car from scratch - I
have a lot of tubing to weld together and panels, firewalls, etc, so
something more heavy duty was important.  These things are not only
rated in voltage/current output, but also duty cycle... keep that in
mind.  If a particular unit can give you 30A at a 30% duty cycle, that
means you can weld for a minute, then wait three.  Stepping up a size,
could be rated at 50A at the same duty cycle, which means if you only
need 30A, you now have a much higher duty cycle.

For welding mild steel, I welded two 8' strips together in one long
swoop, because the machine was slightly oversized for the job - so I
had the current turned down about half way, which increased the duty
cycle significantly.

I really like this unit (170T), and if you have access to 220V in your
garage/home/yard, its not that expensive either.  Figure about a grand
for the unit, gun and cable, then on top of that you'd need a face
shield, and a display filter (shade) of your choice, leather gloves
and preferably a leather apron.  My total bill with a huge spool of
flux-core welding wire (no gas bottles, but a lot of slag grinding)
ended up being about 1300 bucks or so.

> Have a few projects I want to do that will require weldin, and I don't
> wanna keep on borrowin the neighbors... ya know?

Yep, I hear ya.  I have the reverse problem.  I'm the first in the
little townhouse complex to have a welder, so I've been "asked" by a
few people to weld little trailer brackets back on, etc, mostly minor
stuff.  No one's been brave enough to bring by a rust-bucket that
needs its quarters cut and welded.



-- 

Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport CT 06606

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 16:15:23 1999
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Jim Davies wrote:
> 
> On Sat, 29 May 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote:
> 
> > Jim Davies wrote:
> > <snip>
> >  Corvette never used any Dana 60s.
> > There's an optional diff, like a Dana 53.
> > Shannen
> >
> >
> What years and engines?
The 44 was the heavy duty rear, and the 36 was the light duty
version.  Years listed are 84-94.  I was thinking of the 36, as it's
an unusual # to me.
Shannen


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Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com wrote:
> 
> I have tried to down load the 747 Bins into promedit but had zero luck. Is
> there a procedure to copy a bin then load it into
> promedit ? I do not have any experience with these programs.
>                                                         Thanks for your help

To download bins, go to the main site (efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu), click
on diy_efi, click on "ftp site index", then click on the file you want
to download.  Netscape should prompt you for a filename.

As far as getting it into promedit or tuna, you'll have to check the
readme for each.  It's been a while since I used them and I don't recall
the command line for either.

> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: steve ravet [SMTP:Steve.Ravet@arm.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 9:45 AM
> > To:   diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> > Subject:      Re:
> >
> >
> >
> > Geffro wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi folks
> > > I've been searching the diy--efi website without much luck
> > > Have read prog 101 but i dont understand any of it
> > > eg
> > >
> > > The PROM has tables and some program code. It maps into processor space
> > > from 0xd000 to 0xdfff. The ROM appears in the processor space from
> > 0xe000 to
> > > 0xffff. Data space in the PROM is from 0x000 to 0x616. Code starts at
> > 0x617
> > > and continues to the end of the PROM, 0xfff.
> > >
> > > So to learn this where do i go ?
> >
> > Well, I hate to say it but read through the archives, searching for
> > programming 101.  Also read the tuning tips document which describes how
> > it all works together.  And pay attention to what comes across the gmecm
> > list.
> >
> > Also download some of the 747 bins and run them through either promedit
> > or tuna.  That way you can actually see some of the tables, see how
> > spark timing varies by load and rpm, etc.
> >
> > > I have collected a few proms that I'd like to read.
> > >  So can you good folk
> > > tell me what I need
> > > Is a prom reader an emulator and burner?cause i'd like to buy one
> >
> > A reader/programmer is different from an emulator.  You need a
> > reader/programmer, the emulator is nice but not necessary.
> >
> > --steve
> >
> > > whatever so i can start to work thiis out
> > > Cheers
> > > Geoff
> >
> > --
> > Steve Ravet
> > steve.ravet@arm.com
> > Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
> > www.arm.com

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 17:47:05 1999
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Hi all,

I am adapting a 730 to a Mopar RB engine and I have some questions about
Knock sensors:
How sensitive are knock sensors to noise generated by gear drives? If
they are affected would selection solve the problem? ( for instance a
knock sensor off a factory supercharged engine)
What about noise from mechanical (roller cams)?

Bill Edgeworth



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Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
> > Well... Yeah :) I keep it in my metric tool drawer, next to
> >the metric hammer and the metric crescent wrench  ;)
> 
> metric?  What's that?  you mean you guys don't use SAE wrenches and a
> large 5lb sledge to make the wrench fit?
> 
> <grin>
> 
According to my Industrial sized BFH hammer scale, 5lbs is
"moderate".  Large is around 10 lbs.
Shannen

> --
> 
> Frederic Breitwieser
> Bridgeport CT 06606
> 
> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
> 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
> 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 17:48:39 1999
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If the stuff inside the Dana 60 came with the Dana in 1970 on the Dodge
Superbee, what would it be, I can't remember, it's been quite a while...

I DO know that it has clutches in it...

Any ideas?

LATER!

Todd....

--------------

Charles Brooks wrote:
> 
> Please understand this is not meant as a sarcastic reply!
> 
> The type of posi is NOT dictated by the type of rear it's in or made for. There are limited slip, Torsen and locking differentials made for the Dana 60. If you want to know what type of unit is in the rear you'll have to actually look at it.
> 
> Charles Brooks
> 
> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> From: "Todd....!!" <atc347@c-com.net>
> Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 08:24:17 -0700
> 
> >Hey C.
> 
> Does the Dana 60's posi unit fall within any of the four types of rears
> ya mentioned?  And if so, which?  it has clutches... whereas the 8 3/4
> posi's have either clutches or the cone(non-clutch) type posi...
> 
> Just wonderinnnnnnnn.....
> 
> Todd....
> 
> ----------
> 
> C. Brooks wrote:
> >
> > Hey BUDDY, I happen to like my metric hammer! And I do know the difference
> > between Open, Limited Slip, Locking, and Torsen Differentials too!
> >
> > ;)
> >
> > Charles Brooks



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 17:48:42 1999
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Hey Fred,

Just wonderin,

Is your Hummer mostly metric or SAE?

AND will/is your 2000 Fred-mobile gonna be metric or sae or mostly
which?

Just wonderinnnnnnn......

Todd.......

-----------

Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
> > And seeing as how most of freds rides are American built n all, I'd have
> > to say that he was REALLY only 3/4 serious...
> 
> Are you kidding?  The Lincoln uses more metric than SAE!!!  The 75
> Dodge truck is all SAE of course.
> 
> --
> 
> Frederic Breitwieser
> Bridgeport CT 06606
> 
> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
> 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
> 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 17:50:41 1999
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Todd....!! wrote:
> 
> It's true....
> 
> That the almighty crescent wrench may be used for multiple tasks...
I once found a crescent that had been lying beside the road for
years.  It was rusted solid, and no amount of effort could free up the
thumbwheel.  Alas, it was a one size fits-all.
Shannen


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Can ya do a W.O.T. launch with the button OFF, then turn it on in the
middle of the launch, under FULL TORQUE?

Just how strong is this unit?

AND, would a car with one of these air posi's get better gas mileage
with the posi OFF than it would with the air-posi on?

Just wondrinnnnn.........


LATER!

Todd....!!


Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
> > The type of posi is NOT dictated by the type of rear it's in or made for. There are limited slip, Torsen and locking differentials made for the Dana 60. If you want to know what type of unit is in the rear you'll have to actually look at it.
> 
> And this is not a sarcastic response, either :)
> 
> I'd highly recommend an ARB airlocker for this rear.  direct bolt in,
> easy to control with a pushbutton, and totally open when needed.
> 
> --
> 
> Frederic Breitwieser
> Bridgeport CT 06606
> 
> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
> 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
> 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 17:59:16 1999
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Hi Fred,

Thanks for the pricing...

That's REALLY high, in my book... and I'm SURE that YOU got GREAT deals
on everything!

Did ya get a Lincoln, or what brand?  I don't remember ya mentionin?

ALSO, I thought I could get away with a lil 110V mig from Sam's or
somethin for less than $200!

Or am I just WAY WAY rusty on my pricing?

MAybe I can pickup a used one at a pawn shop or somethin...til I strike
it rich with the real estate n all...

REALLY wanna build a Defender (Yes, from the Viper Series) and maybe a
Prowler on a Camaro or equiv chassis.... Sell em for $10,000 or so ea...
Buyer's choice of engine/drivetrain... Hemi would be a natural in the
sucker, but anything goes, when ya have a welder, right?

Whadayatink?

LATER!

Todd....



Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
> > Are you usin a 110 Mig welder to weld your patch panels are are ya just
> > leadin em in or just brazin?
> 
> I purchased last fall a Lincoln 170T wire-feed MIG welder, which uses
> 220V at about 45 amps if I remember the data on the cord correctly...
> installed a 60A 220V industrial outlet (versus a dryer outlet) and
> gave it its own breaker.
> 
> > I'm lookin at getten a lil 110 mig for the house, and am lookin into em
> > right now...
> 
> I checked them out as well... and didn't really like any of them for
> my application, which is building a mid-engine car from scratch - I
> have a lot of tubing to weld together and panels, firewalls, etc, so
> something more heavy duty was important.  These things are not only
> rated in voltage/current output, but also duty cycle... keep that in
> mind.  If a particular unit can give you 30A at a 30% duty cycle, that
> means you can weld for a minute, then wait three.  Stepping up a size,
> could be rated at 50A at the same duty cycle, which means if you only
> need 30A, you now have a much higher duty cycle.
> 
> For welding mild steel, I welded two 8' strips together in one long
> swoop, because the machine was slightly oversized for the job - so I
> had the current turned down about half way, which increased the duty
> cycle significantly.
> 
> I really like this unit (170T), and if you have access to 220V in your
> garage/home/yard, its not that expensive either.  Figure about a grand
> for the unit, gun and cable, then on top of that you'd need a face
> shield, and a display filter (shade) of your choice, leather gloves
> and preferably a leather apron.  My total bill with a huge spool of
> flux-core welding wire (no gas bottles, but a lot of slag grinding)
> ended up being about 1300 bucks or so.
> 
> > Have a few projects I want to do that will require weldin, and I don't
> > wanna keep on borrowin the neighbors... ya know?
> 
> Yep, I hear ya.  I have the reverse problem.  I'm the first in the
> little townhouse complex to have a welder, so I've been "asked" by a
> few people to weld little trailer brackets back on, etc, mostly minor
> stuff.  No one's been brave enough to bring by a rust-bucket that
> needs its quarters cut and welded.
> 
> --
> 
> Frederic Breitwieser
> Bridgeport CT 06606
> 
> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
> 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
> 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)


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Ross Corrigan wrote:

> >Also, there was a 68 or 69 large journal 307 or 327 offered with
> >forged crank, tho I don't remember the details.  Just remember going
> 
> Line I've been fed is the 300+ (not 300, only above) hp 327's got forged
> cranks in the large journal setups.  Read this more than once now in the
> chevy mags. Rest large journals were cast.  My serial # matches a 325hp
> version but I didn't know enough when I did my quick re and re to check
> that part out to verify.  This is only for 327's.

Found a casting# site. This shows forged, 325hp, 69 327.
http://www.mortec.com/



In a mild street motor, ya get bragging rights.  Some GM cranks had
hardened journals, but I don't know which, if any, were factory
installed.  Hardening was not too deep.  Machinists tell me that a
regrind usually removed it, and finding a less than pristine used
treated crank is no better than a non treated one.
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 18:26:30 1999
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> Is your Hummer mostly metric or SAE?

The Hummer is completely SAE, at least on all "assemblies".  Inside
the tranny & diff, prolly SAE, but these parts were bolted on rather
than taken apart.  Remember, this is not a "pay 60 grand" hummer, but
rather a built one.  So, everything was pretty much SAE.

> AND will/is your 2000 Fred-mobile gonna be metric or sae or mostly
> which?

Its a mix.  Buick Engine, Audi Transaxle, Corvette Suspension are
their own, (mostly SAE), and all the fabricated stuff lucky enough to
get a fastener will be SAE.

-- 

Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport CT 06606

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)

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Thanks Steve; I will give it a try, appreciate your help
                                                                  Don

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	steve ravet [SMTP:Steve.Ravet@arm.com]
> Sent:	Wednesday, June 02, 1999 3:16 PM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: 
> 
> 
> 
> Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com wrote:
> > 
> > I have tried to down load the 747 Bins into promedit but had zero luck.
> Is
> > there a procedure to copy a bin then load it into
> > promedit ? I do not have any experience with these programs.
> >                                                         Thanks for your
> help
> 
> To download bins, go to the main site (efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu), click
> on diy_efi, click on "ftp site index", then click on the file you want
> to download.  Netscape should prompt you for a filename.
> 
> As far as getting it into promedit or tuna, you'll have to check the
> readme for each.  It's been a while since I used them and I don't recall
> the command line for either.
> 
> > 
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: steve ravet [SMTP:Steve.Ravet@arm.com]
> > > Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 9:45 AM
> > > To:   diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> > > Subject:      Re:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Geffro wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi folks
> > > > I've been searching the diy--efi website without much luck
> > > > Have read prog 101 but i dont understand any of it
> > > > eg
> > > >
> > > > The PROM has tables and some program code. It maps into processor
> space
> > > > from 0xd000 to 0xdfff. The ROM appears in the processor space from
> > > 0xe000 to
> > > > 0xffff. Data space in the PROM is from 0x000 to 0x616. Code starts
> at
> > > 0x617
> > > > and continues to the end of the PROM, 0xfff.
> > > >
> > > > So to learn this where do i go ?
> > >
> > > Well, I hate to say it but read through the archives, searching for
> > > programming 101.  Also read the tuning tips document which describes
> how
> > > it all works together.  And pay attention to what comes across the
> gmecm
> > > list.
> > >
> > > Also download some of the 747 bins and run them through either
> promedit
> > > or tuna.  That way you can actually see some of the tables, see how
> > > spark timing varies by load and rpm, etc.
> > >
> > > > I have collected a few proms that I'd like to read.
> > > >  So can you good folk
> > > > tell me what I need
> > > > Is a prom reader an emulator and burner?cause i'd like to buy one
> > >
> > > A reader/programmer is different from an emulator.  You need a
> > > reader/programmer, the emulator is nice but not necessary.
> > >
> > > --steve
> > >
> > > > whatever so i can start to work thiis out
> > > > Cheers
> > > > Geoff
> > >
> > > --
> > > Steve Ravet
> > > steve.ravet@arm.com
> > > Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
> > > www.arm.com
> 
> -- 
> Steve Ravet
> steve.ravet@arm.com
> Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
> www.arm.com

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On Wed, 2 Jun 1999, SPECTRO COATING CORP. wrote:

> Actually - Torsen was the manufacturer - Bob (I think that's his first name)
> Gleason invented that differential design. Zexel was the manufacturer last i
> knew.
> 
Last name was actually Gleasman, but he changed it to Gleason. Also known
for hypoid gearing...



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Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
<snip>
> have a lot of tubing to weld together and panels, firewalls, etc, so
> something more heavy duty was important.  These things are not only
> rated in voltage/current output, but also duty cycle... keep that in
> mind.  If a particular unit can give you 30A at a 30% duty cycle, that
> means you can weld for a minute, then wait three.  Stepping up a size,
> could be rated at 50A at the same duty cycle, which means if you only
> need 30A, you now have a much higher duty cycle.
> 

Apologise(sp!) in advance for the interruption, welder duty cycle is
based on
a ten minute period. 30% gives three minutes of welding to seven minutes
of
cool down time. The real duty cycle is typically a taper, like 20% at
max
output, to 100% at 1/3 of the max output, or something like that.

BobR.

(Who him-self couldn't find out this info for a looonnnggg time...)

<snip>
> few people to weld little trailer brackets back on, etc, mostly minor
> stuff.  No one's been brave enough to bring by a rust-bucket that
> needs its quarters cut and welded.
> 
> --
> 
> Frederic Breitwieser
> Bridgeport CT 06606
> 
> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
> 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
> 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 18:48:11 1999
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First, be warned, promedit can be finicky, if there's the slightest
problem
with the .ecu file, it can hang.

But, I still like it and use it.

So, to just look at a .bin, just type the command 'promedit' followed
by the name of the .bin you wish to look at:

	promedit 747akal.bin

Then, you will be prompted for a .ecu file, enter:

	SPK747

The '.ecu' part is assumed, and not entered on the prompt line.

I can recommend the .ecu file: SPK747.ECU, (I'm biased, see the gmecm
web site under 'member projects' or similar).

I also use the older version of promedit, the one in 'incoming' called
'promedit.zip'.

It will then complain about the cksum, just hit the 'enter' key.

You can now hit the 'F2' key, and enter a value which is a table/map
to observe.

BobR.

Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com wrote:
> 
> I have tried to down load the 747 Bins into promedit but had zero luck. Is
> there a procedure to copy a bin then load it into
> promedit ? I do not have any experience with these programs.
>                                                         Thanks for your help
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: steve ravet [SMTP:Steve.Ravet@arm.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 9:45 AM
> > To:   diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> > Subject:      Re:
> >
> >
> >
> > Geffro wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi folks
> > > I've been searching the diy--efi website without much luck
> > > Have read prog 101 but i dont understand any of it
> > > eg
> > >
> > > The PROM has tables and some program code. It maps into processor space
> > > from 0xd000 to 0xdfff. The ROM appears in the processor space from
> > 0xe000 to
> > > 0xffff. Data space in the PROM is from 0x000 to 0x616. Code starts at
> > 0x617
> > > and continues to the end of the PROM, 0xfff.
> > >
> > > So to learn this where do i go ?
> >
> > Well, I hate to say it but read through the archives, searching for
> > programming 101.  Also read the tuning tips document which describes how
> > it all works together.  And pay attention to what comes across the gmecm
> > list.
> >
> > Also download some of the 747 bins and run them through either promedit
> > or tuna.  That way you can actually see some of the tables, see how
> > spark timing varies by load and rpm, etc.
> >
> > > I have collected a few proms that I'd like to read.
> > >  So can you good folk
> > > tell me what I need
> > > Is a prom reader an emulator and burner?cause i'd like to buy one
> >
> > A reader/programmer is different from an emulator.  You need a
> > reader/programmer, the emulator is nice but not necessary.
> >
> > --steve
> >
> > > whatever so i can start to work thiis out
> > > Cheers
> > > Geoff
> >
> > --
> > Steve Ravet
> > steve.ravet@arm.com
> > Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
> > www.arm.com


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 18:54:04 1999
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To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <3755A520.A8BD87C8@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Knock sensors
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Heck, they can pick up the fractured ribs in a serpentine belt.  A poor
Alternator bearing.  Timing gears might give it KS a migrane, from all the
noise.
   Next chance, I get I think I'm gonna try an op-amp, and comparator, and
see what I get.
   In my experiments with the ESC Module KS, there were slight differences.
>From memory, was a max of like 4 degrees knock to 0 for a given engine.
Bruce

| Hi all,
| I am adapting a 730 to a Mopar RB engine and I have some questions about
| Knock sensors:
| How sensitive are knock sensors to noise generated by gear drives? If
| they are affected would selection solve the problem? ( for instance a
| knock sensor off a factory supercharged engine)
| What about noise from mechanical (roller cams)?
| Bill Edgeworth



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 19:08:15 1999
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 17:36:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
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-> what happens when an automatic transmission is in park, and Torsen is
-> named after Mr. Norberg Torsen who invented that special kind of
-> mechanism (he was Swedish).

 The Torsen was invented by Vernon Gleasman and originally built by the
Gleason (note the difference in name) works.  The name is an acronym
built from "TORque SENsing".

 Conceptually the Gleasman-Torsen was similar to other worm-type
differentials dating clear back to the early part of the century;
Gleasman's primary contribution to the state of the art was the design
of the machinery needed to cut the worms accurately and economically.

 If there was a Mr. Norberg Torsen, I've never heard of him.

==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?
=================================== http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm
                                                                                                   

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 19:33:34 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
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On Wed, 2 Jun 1999, Todd....!! wrote:

> Is the Dana 60 considered a Sure Grip?  Or just a posi?
> 
> Don't know what to call it, now that I think about it, anybody?
> 
Older 60s used an Eaton PowrLok [2 piece case] later ones used a Trac-Lok
[one piece case, no ramps]

Older 8 3/4s used a PowrLok. In 1968-9 they started using the Borg-Warner
Spin-resistant [cone-type]

Older [50s-60s] GMs used the Powr-Lok also

Olds used the spin-resistant in the late 60s

Ford 8 3/4-9-9 3/8 inch dropouts used a small, plate type LSD called an
Equalock [aka Equapop] which, due to the small available diff size, was
never used with 427s. The cars came with a 4 pinion open diff and a
no-spin could be installed at the dealer or  elsewhere. 

All of the above [except the no-spin] are limited slips, with a plethora
of marketing names, like 'positraction' 'safe-t-track' 'sure-grip' etc
etc.

Just think of a conventional differential, with a bit of friction between
each axle shaft and the diff case added. Breakaway torques are in the area
of 30 to 250 ft lbs. Once you exceed the breakaway torque, they act like a
conventional diff. The breakaway torque varies a lot between individual
samples of identical units.

The Powr-Lok has a 'feedback' capability making it more desireable, and
more expensive to mfr. Obsolete. It was the best of the plate types, IMO.

Oh, yeah. There is no more good posi lube available, complicating things.


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From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Prowler V6 now ESB
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On Wed, 2 Jun 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote:

> Never seen it, doesn't mean it's not so.  Seems like different parts
> of the country had different "standard parts" in the engines.  Fer
> example, lotsa 4 bolt 350s in MT, not so many in MA.
> I have a cast 283 crank in my EFI'd 302.  It's from a 67 though. 
> Funny stuff in 67, spin on filters, no internal vent canister, no
> machining for crankcase vent tube, but only on some engines.  I don't
> know what the connection is, except maybe California emissions.
> I've seen the notched 283 engines.  I can identify the source of one
> as a GMC truck.  

At one time I used to buy and sell lotsa SBCs. Just about the time I knew
I had seen everything, along would come something new...



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 19:48:54 1999
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From: "Peter D. Hipson" <mail@darkstar.mv.com>
Subject: Re: Types of differentials/Traction aiding devices
In-Reply-To: <3755BEA1.456@c-com.net>
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 <37558937.4DFDEA64@xephic.dynip.com>
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ARB's can only be used on surfaces with a low coefficient of friction. That
is, off road, or drag racing. In either of these areas, who cares about
mileage! Strong: well, we beat the hell out of them on trails, and they
don't break very often. Most common problem is air leaks, etc.

At 04:30 PM 6/2/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Can ya do a W.O.T. launch with the button OFF, then turn it on in the
>middle of the launch, under FULL TORQUE?
>
>Just how strong is this unit?
>
>AND, would a car with one of these air posi's get better gas mileage
>with the posi OFF than it would with the air-posi on?
>
>Just wondrinnnnn.........
>
>
>LATER!
>
>Todd....!!
>
>
>Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
>> 
>> > The type of posi is NOT dictated by the type of rear it's in or made
for. There are limited slip, Torsen and locking differentials made for the
Dana 60. If you want to know what type of unit is in the rear you'll have
to actually look at it.
>> 
>> And this is not a sarcastic response, either :)
>> 
>> I'd highly recommend an ARB airlocker for this rear.  direct bolt in,
>> easy to control with a pushbutton, and totally open when needed.
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Frederic Breitwieser
>> Bridgeport CT 06606
>> 
>> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>> 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
>> 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
>> 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)
>
>
>
Thanks, 
        Peter Hipson (founder, NEHOG)
        1995 White NA Hummer Wagon

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 19:48:50 1999
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 19:48:30 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "Peter D. Hipson" <mail@darkstar.mv.com>
Subject: Re: Prowler V6
In-Reply-To: <3755BE0F.1A95@c-com.net>
References: <199906011442.AA3742499424@mail.tqci.net>
 <3.0.6.32.19990601130750.007ad280@sal.awwwsome.com>
 <37545CD5.C07073A7@xephic.dynip.com>
 <375463AC.96902240@ix.netcom.com>
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Hummers are mixed metric and SAE. The engine and drivetrain are metric.
Body/frame/fittings are mostly SAE. You *never* have the right socket on
the rachet. <g> 

At 04:28 PM 6/2/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Hey Fred,
>
>Just wonderin,
>
>Is your Hummer mostly metric or SAE?
>
>AND will/is your 2000 Fred-mobile gonna be metric or sae or mostly
>which?
>
>Just wonderinnnnnnn......
>
>Todd.......
>
>-----------
>
>Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
>> 
>> > And seeing as how most of freds rides are American built n all, I'd have
>> > to say that he was REALLY only 3/4 serious...
>> 
>> Are you kidding?  The Lincoln uses more metric than SAE!!!  The 75
>> Dodge truck is all SAE of course.
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Frederic Breitwieser
>> Bridgeport CT 06606
>> 
>> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>> 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
>> 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
>> 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)
>
>
>
Thanks, 
        Peter Hipson (founder, NEHOG)
        1995 White NA Hummer Wagon

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 19:59:53 1999
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From: "Dan Plaskett" <dynastydan@worldnet.att.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Prowler V6
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 18:57:39 -0500
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I bought about a gross of those last week if anybody needs one let me know.

Dan Plaskett


-----Original Message-----
From: David A. Cooley <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 11:33 AM
Subject: Re: Prowler V6


>> So, if I understand correctly we'll need a metric magnet in order to
>> tell whether our pistons are aluminum or not?
>
>Not just any metric magnet... A Left handed Unobtanium/niobium alloy metric
>magnet.
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 20:01:47 1999
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From: "C. Brooks" <cbrooks1@tqci.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Types of differentials/Traction aiding devices
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That's a good question. I don't know but to put a little perspective on
this...

One of the club members has a Toyota truck with a mild 383, TH350 tranny,
Dual Marlin crawler transfer case both with 4.7:1 gears, and Dana axles (60
rear, 44 front) with 5.?:1 gearing, and 36" swampers. I've seen him use
(Abuse)  this truck pretty hard. The final drive ratio in first gear low
range is well over 200:1. That's ALOT of torque multiplication, and he's
never had an ARB fail (YET!)

Having the diff locked won't make any difference in mileage.

Charles Brooks



-----Original Message-----
From: Todd....!! <atc347@c-com.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: Types of differentials/Traction aiding devices


>Can ya do a W.O.T. launch with the button OFF, then turn it on in the
>middle of the launch, under FULL TORQUE?
>
>Just how strong is this unit?
>
>AND, would a car with one of these air posi's get better gas mileage
>with the posi OFF than it would with the air-posi on?
>
>Just wondrinnnnn.........
>
>
>LATER!
>
>Todd....!!
>
>
>Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
>>
>> > The type of posi is NOT dictated by the type of rear it's in or made
for. There are limited slip, Torsen and locking differentials made for the
Dana 60. If you want to know what type of unit is in the rear you'll have to
actually look at it.
>>
>> And this is not a sarcastic response, either :)
>>
>> I'd highly recommend an ARB airlocker for this rear.  direct bolt in,
>> easy to control with a pushbutton, and totally open when needed.
>>
>> --
>>
>> Frederic Breitwieser
>> Bridgeport CT 06606
>>
>> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>> 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
>> 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
>> 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 20:07:10 1999
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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Hélène?= Villemure <memvive@globetrotter.qc.ca>
Subject: Re: Injectors
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Lance,

the injectors from a Toyota Supra (1987-92) should fit, 440 cc/min. Also 
the RX-7 turbo injectors are 550 cc/min.!

Hope this helps,
Helene
At 22:33 99-05-31 -0400, you wrote:
>Anyone have a reliable source for reasonably priced injectors. I am looking
>for 32-35 lb. per Hr. low impedence type. Any info greatly appreciated.
>
>Lance
>
>New to list.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 20:24:16 1999
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Mike Pilkenton wrote:
> 
>     I have a 730 ecm variety from a 92 Camaro 3.1L V6.  Does this ECM have
> all the programming and tables located in the EEPROM (MEMCAL) or does it
> contain some of the base program in ROM somewhere else on the PCB?
> 
>     I'm curious because I need to get it reprogrammed to remove the EGR, AC,
> AIR, and VATS functions.
> 
> Mike Pilkenton

The 730 is all in the eprom. As for the A/C and AIR, no need to change
them. The A/C pressure switch wire will need to be grounded, otherwise
the
cooling fan will run. Without A/C, you don't need the P/S press switch
either, leave the circuit open (closes with high press).

The VATS can be done with an simple external circuit, or as a bit in the
code.

The EGR will need to be changed. The EGR is also used to test the MAP.
So
you might need to disable some of the MAP tests (by err code), to
prevent
map errors.

There's two other things you might need to know:

	when going through the code, it appears that the order of tables in
	memory are the reverse of the layout in the v8 730's. 

	after any battery disconnect, this ecm/engine combo needs to go through
	an idle learn session like you won't believe. otherwise it takes about
	two weeks of daily driving for it to finally idle, that is without
stalling,
	lurching, rev-ing up, and otherwise being difficult to drive.


BobR.

--


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 20:24:11 1999
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Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
References: <Pine.A41.3.96.990601131327.44752B-100000@vcc11.vcc.bc.ca> <375543A6.3477@c-com.net> <37554A94.10728EA2@aci.net>
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My daily driver has a lock-rite in it, you can't imagine how
many folks have tried to 'help-out', with all that racket.

I was outa' the car, half-way across the lot, and one guy
was still pullin on the centers and shaken the tire/wheels,
looking for what was wrong...

yea, I finally went back and clued him in.

BobR.


.. wrote:
> 
> Or you could have had fun with one of the earlier "Detroit Lockers" that had
> a mechanical ratchet mechanism that would make a loud ratcheting noise every
> time you turned a corner. It made for a car that was a real "head turner"
> from the pedestrians - loud clanking and ratcheting noises.
> rap
> 
> "Todd....!!" wrote:
> 
> > Jim,
> >
> > I'm now mostly a Mopar man, and have a Dana 60 which has a FULL POSI
> > most of the time, the posi only 'breaks' when doing a slow tight turn...
> > sometimes you can actually hear the clutches 'break'/slip during this
> > procedure...
> >
> > Whereas the Chev type limited slips are only posi's when ya need it,
> > i.e. under high load and such...
> >
> > In comes that GN that was spinnin only ONE tire around the turns (the
> > lighter weighted tire, i.e. inside turn tire) when the boost came
> > in...(He spun out several times due to the need to spin in order to even
> > come close to qualifying for further runs...needless to say, he didn't
> > make the cut)
> >
> > Then ya have the 8 3/4 auburn locker, that has no clutches, just some
> > sorta cone thing... never really looked at one, buddy jsut bought a
> > brand spankin new auburn for his 8 3/4 when he swapped his 4.10's out
> > for 3.23's! it seems to work pretty good, he's only pushin about a
> > stock 383 in his 70 Bee, so there's not much power to tell, ya know...
> >
> > LATER!
> >
> > Todd....
> > http://www.c-com.net/~atc347/toddlnk.htm
> >
> > Jim Davies wrote:
> > >
> > > On Tue, 1 Jun 1999, Todd....!! wrote:
> > >
> > > > I thought all GN's were posi's, this one musta been a limited slip or
> > > > somethin...
> > > >
> > > I'll bite...whats the difference?



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 20:31:36 1999
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Subject: Re: Injectors
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Todd....!! wrote:
> 
> Hey BobR!
> 
> Thanks for that link man!

welcome

> 
> A penny saved is a penny earned, right?

Yep, only have so much to spend, so you/I have to pick
and choose..

> 
> I dunno about rebuilt injectors though!

're-conditioned', Linder gets upset when they are called rebuilt <g>

> 
> Are they as reliable and accurate as the new one's?

Don't know.

> 
> I may have to experience this for myself, especially if the rebuilt
> injectors are about half the cost of the new one's!
> 
> Have pulled up the site, looks great...
> 
> Wonder if they have warranties on their injectors?
> 
> LATER!
> 
> Thanks again!
> 
> Todd....
> 
> ---------
> 
> rr wrote:
> >
> > Try these guys:
> >
> > Linder Technical Services (317-487-1868 or www.lindertech.com)
> >
> > If I remember correctly, he also sells re-conditioned injectors
> > at a good price.
> >
> > BobR.
> >
> > AzDatsun@aol.com wrote:
> > >
> > > Anyone have a reliable source for reasonably priced injectors. I am looking
> > > for 32-35 lb. per Hr. low impedence type. Any info greatly appreciated.
> > >
> > > Lance
> > >
> > > New to list.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 20:37:56 1999
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Yeah, there are the Asian metric sizes (like 12mm, 15mm, 18mm hex heads) and
European metric sizes (like 13mm, 17mm, 19mm hex heads).  And lately I have
started finding 3/8" nuts and bolts with 15mm hex heads (I was quite surprised
to find that neither a 9/16" or a 5/8" ring spanner would fit, but a 15mm did)

Dan  dzorde@erggroup.com




Bill Edgeworth <bedgew@ix.netcom.com> on 02-06-99 11:19:21 PM

Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

To:   diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc:    (bcc: Dan Zorde/Transit/ERG_Group)

Subject:  Re: Prowler V6





A lot of newer american cars are now using a mix of metric and standard in
their cars. Oddly though these sizes seem different than what standards are in
the rest of the world. For instance most european hex head fasteners have head
sizes 10,13,17,19,22,24,27mm not sizes like 15 mm and 18 mm
Anybody know why? are these maybe JIS (Japanese) as opposed to DIN (German)
standards?
Or did the american auto manufacturers buy stock in the tool companies?

Bill Edgeworth




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 21:09:24 1999
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| > > Try these guys:
| > > Linder Technical Services (317-487-1868 or www.lindertech.com)

I've talked to Jim, and bothered his staff with questions from time to time,
and they seem to be nice folks.  I bought a scanner from him, and it was as
advertised.
   I've used reconditioned injectors (thou not his), and have had good
results.
Grumpy


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 21:16:38 1999
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From: "John C. Lagerquist" <x19er@tm.net>
To: "DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wed, 02 Jun 99 19:15:59 
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Subject: looking for GM smartcoil driver circuit...
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Anyone playing around with the GM smart coils?  

What type of driver circuit are you using?


John C. Lagerquist
Sr. Engineer
Magneti Marelli Racing

'86 Bertone X1/9
------------------------------------------------------
 - Venolia forged aluminum pistons
 - big valve head by Progressive Automotive
 - camshaft, I keep changing my mind
 - lightened flywheel
 - PBS pan baffle
 - PBS header
 - custom 1 intake per cyl. programmable EFI (in progress)
 - distributorless programmable ignition (in progress)

What can I say?  It's a work in progress...


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 21:23:14 1999
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From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Types of differentials/Traction aiding devices
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>If the stuff inside the Dana 60 came with the Dana in 1970 on the Dodge
>Superbee, what would it be, I can't remember, it's been quite a while...
>
>I DO know that it has clutches in it...
>
>Any ideas?
>
Trak-Lok if a one piece case and two spider gears, Powr Lok if a two piece
(bolted together) case and four spider gears. (Both spellings are Trade
Mark spellings.)

Trak-Loks are junk waiting to happen,

Powr-Loks are very good, durable, strong units--naturally a fair bit more
expensive that Trak-Loks--and their design is based on the old British
"Thorton" design. Thornton had the patent on the unit's design, then they
got swallowed by Salisbury, who in turn got swallowed by Dana-Spicer.

If you get a clutch replacement kit for a Powr-Lok, it will have an extra
pair of one of the discs in it, which is thicker than the others. If you
re-assemble it with the thicker piar of discs (one on each side) in place
of one of the thinner pairs of discs, you will get a much tighter pre-load
on the unit, and although it will be stiffer in corners, it is also locks
tighter/sooner.

The pre-load on on of these exists because one of the discs is a belleville
spring on each side.  The more torque that is applied to a Powr-Lok unit,
the tighter its clutches are applied.

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 21:43:14 1999
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From: "Mike Pilkenton" <mpilkent@ptw.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 730 program
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 18:42:28 -0700
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Why would I need a V8 MEMCAL?  I'm running a 3.1L V6 motor.

Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Fenske <pfenske@bcit.bc.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 11:19 PM
Subject: Re: 730 program


>
>
>Hi Mike
>
>All the code on the main mpu is in the calibration pak.
>Make sure you get a calpak for a V8 application if you are gonna
>run a V8, V6 calpaks don't work
>
>About the only thing you gotta worry bout is vats and maybe the egr error
>bit
>
>None of the other stuff is required
>
>gl:peter
>
>
>    I have a 730 ecm variety from a 92 Camaro 3.1L V6.  Does this ECM have
>all the programming and tables located in the EEPROM (MEMCAL) or does it
>contain some of the base program in ROM somewhere else on the PCB?
>
>    I'm curious because I need to get it reprogrammed to remove the EGR,
AC,
>AIR, and VATS functions.
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 21:51:43 1999
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From: "Chet Wagner" <cwagner@info2000.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Omni Injection
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 19:49:12 -0600
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I have an older (79) Dodge Omni that has been nothing but problems.  The
carburator is at fault but to get a new one costs more than 400 dollars.  I
could make an injection system cheaper than that.  The car is a daily
driver with a long trip every once in a while.  It has a manual 4 speed and
has a 1.7 liter Volkswagen enging in it (blew toe original in 1980).  Any
body have any ideas on what computer I should use, preferable on that I can
reprogram? 


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 21:56:48 1999
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To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <199906030116.9536200@is1.tm.net>
Subject: Re: looking for GM smartcoil driver circuit...
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 21:51:58 -0400
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| Anyone playing around with the GM smart coils?

Grumpy was starting on a project with 'em.  Just toggled C from 5v to
ground.
NICE, spark.....
Pain in the butt, plug wires thou.  If you find bulk terminals please share
where, ya get em, please.
Doc

| What type of driver circuit are you using?
| John C. Lagerquist



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 22:02:57 1999
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eclark@hoser.com wrote:
> 
> On Sun, 30 May 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote:
> 
> > Bad rumor to put any faith in.  Many 4 bolt Chevys are cast crank.
> > Post 86, only steel cranks are in LT1, LT4, and ZZx series engines
> > (ok, ok, smallblock, 5.7, gen II engines).  Also use powdered
> > connecting rods, prone to sudden failure rather than bending, but much
> > stronger until they break. ; )  Ligenfelter Perf. Engineering is
> > selling some of this stuff that they pulled at low mileage to build
> > some stronger engines.
> 
> I just put a new oil pan on my '93 f-body LT1, and it sure didnt look like
> a steel crank.  It looked like ever other cast crank i've seen.
> 
> -Eric
Whatsa forged crank look like in the car?
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 22:05:21 1999
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From: "Mike Pilkenton" <mpilkent@ptw.com>
To: "DIY-EFI" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: o2 options
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 19:04:41 -0700
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I need to obtain an O2 sensor and an inlet air temp. sensor for my 3.1L V6
project and was wondering what options I have.  Are all GM sensors basically
the same or should I stick with the OEM ones?  I checked pricing for these
and they seemed rather steep.  What are typical prices?

Mike


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 22:10:47 1999
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Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
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This "Torsen" thread was fuzzy to me until you mentioned "Gleason-Torsen"..
Bingo, I distinctly remember these as a very close friend had invested in
one and I recall that it performed exceptionally well. The unit was a work
of art compared to the FoMoCo, Mopar, GM units of it's day; albeit, quite a
few more bucks - until you added in the cost of rebuilding the stockers and
the hassle of having to do the rebuilds.
rap

Dave Williams wrote:

> -> what happens when an automatic transmission is in park, and Torsen is
> -> named after Mr. Norberg Torsen who invented that special kind of
> -> mechanism (he was Swedish).
>
>  The Torsen was invented by Vernon Gleasman and originally built by the
> Gleason (note the difference in name) works.  The name is an acronym
> built from "TORque SENsing".
>
>  Conceptually the Gleasman-Torsen was similar to other worm-type
> differentials dating clear back to the early part of the century;
> Gleasman's primary contribution to the state of the art was the design
> of the machinery needed to cut the worms accurately and economically.
>
>  If there was a Mr. Norberg Torsen, I've never heard of him.
>
> ==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
> I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
> my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?
> =================================== http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 22:19:12 1999
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eclark@hoser.com wrote:
> 
> On Sun, 30 May 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote:

> 
> I just put a new oil pan on my '93 f-body LT1, and it sure didnt look like
> a steel crank.  It looked like ever other cast crank i've seen.
> 
> -Eric
Lt1, Lt4 engines use nodular cast crank, not forged.  Ya don't have to
tear your pan back off. ; )
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 22:34:43 1999
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GM exculsive:
Delco replacements generally cheaper then gm.
For O2s use gm, or delco.
Anything else use Standard Ignition parts (LI New York).
There is some real crap in the market place.
Cheers
Grumpy

| I need to obtain an O2 sensor and an inlet air temp. sensor for my 3.1L V6
| project and was wondering what options I have.  Are all GM sensors
basically
| the same or should I stick with the OEM ones?  I checked pricing for these
| and they seemed rather steep.  What are typical prices?
|
| Mike
|


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 22:38:01 1999
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Gary Derian wrote:
> 
> The Z-28 has a 10,000 rpm engine?  The old 302s were redlined at 6000.  

Not being a smart***, is this something you've seen?  Some of us just
have the older guys' stories and picture books to go by.  Guess if I
get "Yes @#$#%, I've seen it" then I'm just gonna have to hope to find
one in a show.

>The
> highest redline pushrod Chevy I know is the old 327/365 and 327/375 which
> had 6200 rpm redlines.  It is pretty tough to get a pushrod valvetrain to
> work at 10,000 rpm 

No kidding.  That's why I thought this engine was so interesting.   

Shannen
> 
> Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 22:38:49 1999
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Subject: Best Chevy EFI engine
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I am looking to do  a couple engine swaps in the near future.  I would like
to put a Vortec or equivalvent TPI engine in a Hummer.  This needs to have
an RV cam and lots of low end torque to move that 68k lb alum shell around
on the rocks and such.

My question is:  What is the best all around chevy engine and car,
 year --to approach an auto salvage yard to acquire the engine harness and
computer, and everything complete that is needed, all in one shot.

I believe that camaros came with it in 1989.  Or should one look to take one
out of later blazer or suburban..??

My stock 350 TBI from the Hummer could probably be replanted in the a 79 CJ
5.  Would be nice to upgrade it to TPI.

What is your advise??

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------
Good judgment comes from experience, and a lotta that comes from bad
judgment.

"Reality will kill you unless you deal with it through myths and metaphors."
Ray Bradbury

Learn from the mistakes of others.
You can't live long enough to make them all yourself.

"This Millenium was for practice.
Next one counts!"

Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the
straights

Laws of Life:
1) Don't sweat the small stuff.
2) Everything is small stuff.

"Love may be blind, but marriage is a real eye-opener"

Michael Selig, MD, FACC.
www.lifelinecardiology.com


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 22:46:36 1999
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Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe?
References: <008401bea956$c6b84800$41010e0a@soren>
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Aaron Willis wrote:
> 
> At 02:48 PM 6/1/99 -0700, you wrote:
> >
> >I thought all GN's were posi's, this one musta been a limited slip or
> >somethin...
> >
> >LATER!,
> >
> >Todd....
> >
>         OOOOH, Todd, now you've done it...hit me right on the Pet Peeve button!!
>         POSI (Positraction) is nothing but Chevrolet's brand name for
> limited-slip...I constantly encounter people (metric hammer users) who
> insist that "Posi" is a technical term for any non-open diff, while
> "limited slip" means an open diff..."limited" meaning it slips until you
> let off the throttle.  I am thinking of going to the term "UNlimited slip"
> to help clarify this concept...

Kinda like discussing high vs low gear ratios...
Shannen
> 
>         Aaron Willis
>         ICQ #27386985
>         AOL IM: hemiyota
>         http://surf.to/garage-te51 Garage TE51 International


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 22:55:34 1999
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Gary Derian wrote:
> 
> The basecoat/clearcoat paints I have used require the clear to be painted
> within 24 hrs of the base.  This made painting flames a 24 hr marathon.
> Paint yellow base, wait 4 hrs, mask flames for 8 hrs, paint red base,
> unmask, paint clear.

> 
> The base and clear coats chemically bond together.  If you wait a week, you
> have to sand the whole thing and reapply some more base.  If you are just
> painting some clear on top of regular paint, you still have to sand it
> before the clear otherwise the clear won't stick.
> 
> The solvents in paint should flash off between coats but the paint should
> not cure.

Might want to look into Standox paints.  There's no hardener in the
base coat.  The base dries, but doesn't harden in the booth.
Shannen
> 
> Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 23:02:33 1999
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From: "Curtis Mittong" <poohbear@twd.net>
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Subject: OBD2 problems
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 23:03:13 -0400
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Whoever has knowledge of this stuff may want to contact me offlist.  I have
alot of dumb questions that are probably below your intelligence levels and
I don't want to clog up the list with too much "entry-level" chatter.

Background:  I have a 96 Impala SS.  I plan on making the LT1 into a 409
(4.030 x 4"...which actually makes 408.17) and totally starting from the
ground up.  I am tired of bolt-ons that make a certain HP, I want to tailor
each part to each other part and get a good reliable streetable engine.  I
am planning on output being in the 600+ hp range.  I can build bulletproof
engines that put out 1000 on nitrous with enough money and resources, but
what I lack is the electronics know-how.  I have the mechanical plans done.
Currently, in my little burg there is no emissions testing, but I don't plan
on living here forever, nor does my little burg plan on never testing, so my
baby needs to be street legal (or have the potential to be once a year).  I
have seen an LT1 with a stock PCM and an Accell piggyback make 592 hp, but
that was with the stock Optispark and it was pushed to the limit.  Its hard
to get the PCMs to reliably support more than 500.  I think with the right
tuning, I could get 650hp to pass a sniffer, but without OBD2 compatibility,
I'm not technically legal.

1) Someone with emissions knowledge; what do they check and is it all ok if
it passes the sniffer?  Or does it have to be a certain configuration?
Certain hardware intact?

2) Since Iive where they don't check, does that mean that I have free reign,
or is it still illegal but no-one checks?

3) Is there maybe an OBD2 computer that will easily support that much HP?  I
want overkill, not just squeezing out 642hp.  I may want to add nitrous or a
blower later.

4) Is "emissions legal" as easy as using "street legal" or CARB approved
parts?

What I really need is someone to take my hand and walk me through this.  My
main problem is this:  I can take my parts to the machine shop and get what
I want and I can build the engine to support the HP.  But, if I take it to
my "EFI guy" and he says that its not set up to best use the EFI he had in
mind, then I have already failed in tailoring all the parts together.  I
want to know enough that I can make accurate plans to make compatible
systems work best.  It can make the difference between a few extra HP and a
detonated engine.  Thanks

Curtis Mittong



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I'd be looking at M-60 Tank drivetrains for 68,000# vehicles.
For 6.8, then BBC, and the newer the better.
Doc

| This needs to have
| an RV cam and lots of low end torque to move that 68k lb alum shell around
| on the rocks and such.



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 23:12:45 1999
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> an RV cam and lots of low end torque to move that 68k lb alum shell around
> on the rocks and such.

Big Block, or a small block with a turbo, or a big block with two
turbos.  I did the latter successfully.

> computer, and everything complete that is needed, all in one shot.

If you can find a motor home engine, you'll find the least radical cam
installed... and there is nothing stopping you from taking such a cam,
or ordering one from your favorite engine part supplier, and shoving it
into a Camaro, Vette, or other high performance 350V8.

Me, I'd get the cam aftermarket that suits your purposes, then slap it
in the nicest, smoothest sounding junkyard engine that has _good_ oil
pressure.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 23:16:00 1999
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> Not being a smart***, is this something you've seen?  Some of us just

While I like taking chances and blowing up engines (personal hobby of my
friends and I), I will state that *I* or *WE* have never successfully
revved any production V8 engine to 10,000 RPM.

The exception is a fully race prepared Donovan block with massively
overpriced custom made stuff, and a small 4-banger here and there.  I
think my friend with the Rx7 engine claimed 10k RPM, but I for one never
witnessed this.

Anyway, V8's having more rotating mass, generate more forces on the
rods, yada yada, and OEM stuff simply breaks.

If you have such a beast, drive to Bridgeport, CT, and I will gladly
refute such a claim after attaching my tachometer to your engine for 30
minutes :)

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 23:17:12 1999
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Knock? -- I reckon ION sense technology is starting to look real good!

A friend just sent me a nice SAAB brochure called "Form & Function: SAAB's
approach to designing and building cars". Great photos and sketches, 
including a cutaway of their Trionic coil - seems to have a ferrite
core and turns ratio of about 1:5, but they claim "40,000 at the moment 
of ignition" - explain that!

They have a nice photo of their Trionic ECU's PCB. It has a Motorola CPU,
can't quite make it out, maybe a 68332 (unit manufactured by Loxor Electronics)?

Bruce Plecan wrote:

> Heck, they can pick up the fractured ribs in a serpentine belt.  A poor
> Alternator bearing.  Timing gears might give it KS a migrane, from all the
> noise.

-- 
Peter Gargano

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Todd....!! wrote:
> 
> Jim,
> 
> I'm now mostly a Mopar man, and have a Dana 60 which has a FULL POSI
> most of the time, the posi only 'breaks' when doing a slow tight turn...
> sometimes you can actually hear the clutches 'break'/slip during this
> procedure...
> 
> Whereas the Chev type limited slips are only posi's when ya need it,
> i.e. under high load and such...

Depends.  Some GM cars use a spring loaded clutch pack that resists
axle slippage. This is a limited slip.  From time to time a detroit
locker's been available.  Some of the late 70's-late 80's 7 1/2" and 7
5/8" diffs, and I think some earlier Pontiacs, used a threaded cone
and cup type diff that was supposed to lock during wheel slip.  Later
trucks have a flyweight and gear clutch setup that turns a cam
underneath the posi clutches to reduce slip during wheel spin. 
Fragile, IMHO.  There are probably other types that I've forgotten or
don't know about.  Traction lock comes to mind, but I don't know if it
was a factory option, and don't know much about it.  
> 
> In comes that GN that was spinnin only ONE tire around the turns (the
> lighter weighted tire, i.e. inside turn tire) when the boost came
> in...(He spun out several times due to the need to spin in order to even
> come close to qualifying for further runs...needless to say, he didn't
> make the cut)

I'm finding out that stiff springs and large rear sway bar can cause
even posi-equipped cars to spin the inside rear tire.
Shannen


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| Whoever has knowledge of this stuff may want to contact me offlist.  I
have
| alot of dumb questions that are probably below your intelligence levels
and
| I don't want to clog up the list with too much "entry-level" chatter.

Lots of guys start with "entry level chatter".  Gotta get info to even ask
questions.
The archives is an excellent resource of material.  If your really new to
efi, just start at archive 1, and start reading.  I've gotten to downloading
them and editing them into a format that I like, and read them all the time,
at home.

snip

| 1) Someone with emissions knowledge; what do they check and is it all ok
if
| it passes the sniffer?  Or does it have to be a certain configuration?
| Certain hardware intact?

It varies some by location, you might investigate what is being done in your
state or where you plan on moving to.

| 2) Since Iive where they don't check, does that mean that I have free
reign,
| or is it still illegal but no-one checks?

IT's illegal by the fed EPA to alter a vehicles emissions..  Just not
policed yet, the feds hold highway funds to get the states to enforce the
fed law.  As I understand it all.

| 3) Is there maybe an OBD2 computer that will easily support that much HP?
I
| want overkill, not just squeezing out 642hp.  I may want to add nitrous or
a
| blower later.

Given enough time and money you "could" make a OBDII computer pretty dumb.

| 4) Is "emissions legal" as easy as using "street legal" or CARB approved
| parts?

Generally CARB sets the level for what is accepted, other than oem.

| What I really need is someone to take my hand and walk me through this.
My
| main problem is this:  I can take my parts to the machine shop and get
what
| I want and I can build the engine to support the HP.  But, if I take it to
| my "EFI guy" and he says that its not set up to best use the EFI he had in
| mind, then I have already failed in tailoring all the parts together.  I
| want to know enough that I can make accurate plans to make compatible
| systems work best.  It can make the difference between a few extra HP and
a
| detonated engine.  Thanks

IMHO, making 600HP smog legally can be done, but gets expensive,
My vote is finding something lighter and settling for fewer HP..
Doc

| Curtis Mittong
|
|


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From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
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Chris Wilson wrote:
> 
> Hello EFI,
> 
> I am about to remove the 2 cats from my Supra twin turbo (1994) to
> alleviate any restriction, but I have a question. Currently, there is
> an O2 sender just after the 2 turbos join at a common outlet point,
> then a pre cat, then a bit of plain pipe, with what *appears* to be a
> second 02 sender, and about 2 feet further back, a second, main cat.
<snip>
> 
> Thanks, I'd better ask before cutting .... :-)
This is just a question.  Are you sure the second cat is really a
cat?  Some cars have a resonator installed after the converter.
Shannen
> 
> --
> 
> Best Regards,
>  Chris
> 
> mailto:chris@formula3.demon.co.uk
> 
> http://www.formula3.demon.co.uk
> 
> Performance car sales at http://www.formula3.demon.co.uk/forsale.htm


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 23:39:37 1999
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Might want to right click on file name, then "save file as".  
Shannen

Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com wrote:
> 
> Thanks Steve; I will give it a try, appreciate your help
>                                                                   Don
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: steve ravet [SMTP:Steve.Ravet@arm.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 3:16 PM
> > To:   diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> > Subject:      Re:
> >
> >
> >
> > Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com wrote:
> > >
> > > I have tried to down load the 747 Bins into promedit but had zero luck.
> > Is
> > > there a procedure to copy a bin then load it into
> > > promedit ? I do not have any experience with these programs.
> > >                                                         Thanks for your
> > help
> >
> > To download bins, go to the main site (efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu), click
> > on diy_efi, click on "ftp site index", then click on the file you want
> > to download.  Netscape should prompt you for a filename.
> >
> > As far as getting it into promedit or tuna, you'll have to check the
> > readme for each.  It's been a while since I used them and I don't recall
> > the command line for either.
> >
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: steve ravet [SMTP:Steve.Ravet@arm.com]
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 9:45 AM
> > > > To:   diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> > > > Subject:      Re:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Geffro wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi folks
> > > > > I've been searching the diy--efi website without much luck
> > > > > Have read prog 101 but i dont understand any of it
> > > > > eg
> > > > >
> > > > > The PROM has tables and some program code. It maps into processor
> > space
> > > > > from 0xd000 to 0xdfff. The ROM appears in the processor space from
> > > > 0xe000 to
> > > > > 0xffff. Data space in the PROM is from 0x000 to 0x616. Code starts
> > at
> > > > 0x617
> > > > > and continues to the end of the PROM, 0xfff.
> > > > >
> > > > > So to learn this where do i go ?
> > > >
> > > > Well, I hate to say it but read through the archives, searching for
> > > > programming 101.  Also read the tuning tips document which describes
> > how
> > > > it all works together.  And pay attention to what comes across the
> > gmecm
> > > > list.
> > > >
> > > > Also download some of the 747 bins and run them through either
> > promedit
> > > > or tuna.  That way you can actually see some of the tables, see how
> > > > spark timing varies by load and rpm, etc.
> > > >
> > > > > I have collected a few proms that I'd like to read.
> > > > >  So can you good folk
> > > > > tell me what I need
> > > > > Is a prom reader an emulator and burner?cause i'd like to buy one
> > > >
> > > > A reader/programmer is different from an emulator.  You need a
> > > > reader/programmer, the emulator is nice but not necessary.
> > > >
> > > > --steve
> > > >
> > > > > whatever so i can start to work thiis out
> > > > > Cheers
> > > > > Geoff
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Steve Ravet
> > > > steve.ravet@arm.com
> > > > Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
> > > > www.arm.com
> >
> > --
> > Steve Ravet
> > steve.ravet@arm.com
> > Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
> > www.arm.com


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 23:42:27 1999
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I'm surprised ya haven't tried harder.
Turn 9 at the ol Riverside Course had done 10K to alot of engines,  usually
cause they caught 2 instead of 4 onna downshift.
NOs has done a couple that if not at 10K were real close.
Rotaries, ya
Sleepy

| > Not being a smart***, is this something you've seen?  Some of us just
| While I like taking chances and blowing up engines (personal hobby of my
| friends and I), I will state that *I* or *WE* have never successfully
| revved any production V8 engine to 10,000 RPM.
| The exception is a fully race prepared Donovan block with massively
| overpriced custom made stuff, and a small 4-banger here and there.  I
| think my friend with the Rx7 engine claimed 10k RPM, but I for one never
| witnessed this.
| Anyway, V8's having more rotating mass, generate more forces on the
| rods, yada yada, and OEM stuff simply breaks.
| If you have such a beast, drive to Bridgeport, CT, and I will gladly
| refute such a claim after attaching my tachometer to your engine for 30
| minutes :)



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 23:43:12 1999
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Jim Davies wrote:
.
> 
> Oh, yeah. There is no more good posi lube available, complicating things.
Oh, no.  I have two pints, they will be hoarded.  We still buy the
additive at the dealership. 
Shannen

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Don,

Try SnapOn / Sun division--or check their webpages for info. They usually
have repair depots (Equiserve) that end up doing the actual repairs on older
equipment. Hope this helps...

--Original Message-----
From: Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com <Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 11:17 AM
Subject: SUN Scope


>I was given a SUN  820 engine tester with a model SS-80 scope. I plan to
use
>the scope with a SUN 404 distributor machine to spin
>an HEI and  bench test a 747.  The SS-80 has a bad power transformer
>(shorted primary) does any one have schematics or repair
>manuals for SUN automotive test equipment. The SS-80 has a limit of 40KV
but
>I figure a simple voltage divider will extend that.
>
>Thanks for any help
>
>Don
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 23:46:19 1999
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On Wed, 2 Jun 1999, Curtis Mittong wrote:

> Whoever has knowledge of this stuff may want to contact me offlist.  I have
> alot of dumb questions that are probably below your intelligence levels and
> I don't want to clog up the list with too much "entry-level" chatter.
> 
> Background:  I have a 96 Impala SS.  I plan on making the LT1 into a 409
> (4.030 x 4"...which actually makes 408.17) and totally starting from the
> ground up.  I am tired of bolt-ons that make a certain HP, I want to tailor
> each part to each other part and get a good reliable streetable engine.  I
> am planning on output being in the 600+ hp range.  I can build bulletproof
> engines that put out 1000 on nitrous with enough money and resources, but
> what I lack is the electronics know-how.  I have the mechanical plans done.
> Currently, in my little burg there is no emissions testing, but I don't plan
> on living here forever, nor does my little burg plan on never testing, so my
> baby needs to be street legal (or have the potential to be once a year).  I
> have seen an LT1 with a stock PCM and an Accell piggyback make 592 hp, but
> that was with the stock Optispark and it was pushed to the limit.  Its hard
> to get the PCMs to reliably support more than 500.  I think with the right
> tuning, I could get 650hp to pass a sniffer, but without OBD2 compatibility,
> I'm not technically legal.
>

I think there aren't alot of people that could make a computer
controlled drivable engine with the stock ECM.  I dont thing the stock
ECM runs into limits, rather the sides of the injectors required to
fuel things make the idle bad.   I am not really how sure I believe
that as my 350 Lt1 is driving 30lb injectors just find and the idle is
just fine (after quite a bit of adjusting).   I think the other issue
is with radical changes you need to change more than just the WOT fuel
table, you need to properly adjust the VE table for things to run
good, and this takes alot of time to do properly.
 
> 1) Someone with emissions knowledge; what do they check and is it all ok if
> it passes the sniffer?  Or does it have to be a certain configuration?
> Certain hardware intact?
>
Well, they will do a visual inspection before the sniffer, and if the
visual inspection fails they won't do the sniffer test.   Usual
failures are missing cat and similar obvious things.  I really dont
think anyone would notice the computer being added on to or replaced
if things were not obvious.

 
> 2) Since Iive where they don't check, does that mean that I have free reign,
> or is it still illegal but no-one checks?
> 
> 3) Is there maybe an OBD2 computer that will easily support that much HP?  I
> want overkill, not just squeezing out 642hp.  I may want to add nitrous or a
> blower later.
>
I would not suggest adding N2O or a blower wit ha 409, the cylinder
walls are supposed to be too thin to support that sort of thing for
very long.

 
> 4) Is "emissions legal" as easy as using "street legal" or CARB approved
> parts?
> 
> What I really need is someone to take my hand and walk me through this.  My
> main problem is this:  I can take my parts to the machine shop and get what
> I want and I can build the engine to support the HP.  But, if I take it to
> my "EFI guy" and he says that its not set up to best use the EFI he had in
> mind, then I have already failed in tailoring all the parts together.  I
> want to know enough that I can make accurate plans to make compatible
> systems work best.  It can make the difference between a few extra HP and a
> detonated engine.  Thanks
> 

I don't thinkg there is any tuning of the engine to the EFI there is
adjusting the EFI properly to run the engine, and I really don't think
the issue is with it being possible, it is with someone knowing how to
do it.  Tuning takes along time, with DFI or the stock ECM, the only
real way to eliminate most of the tuning is to get wide ratio O2
sensors.   Also I don't think ou will get that kind of Hp out of a 409
and have it streetable.  I am pulling 370hp(rear wheel) out of a 350
Lt1 in a 93 camaro, I would be able to get somewhere around 420 out of
a 396 in a streetable config.   You could add a bit wilder cam and
make it harder to street and push the torque curve higher, but that
would probably only give you 10-15 more hp.  Better heads 20-30 more
hp, and better headers and exhaust than I have would maybe get 40 more
hp.   So about 440 or so from a 409 and add 15+30+40 and you have 530
or so hp.   Now maybe if you went with solid lifters and raised the
rev limiter to 7k+ you could get that kind of hp, but I don't think
most people class solid lifters as streetable, and the engine life
with that stroke and high rpms would be severly limited.

Now there are a few people getting over 600hp on a streetable Lt1 but
they are all using large blowers (close to 20psi or more), or large
N2O shots.

 > Curtis Mittong > 
> 
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun  2 23:52:07 1999
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dzorde@erggroup.com wrote:
> 
> Yeah, there are the Asian metric sizes (like 12mm, 15mm, 18mm hex heads) and
> European metric sizes (like 13mm, 17mm, 19mm hex heads).  And lately I have
> started finding 3/8" nuts and bolts with 15mm hex heads (I was quite surprised
> to find that neither a 9/16" or a 5/8" ring spanner would fit, but a 15mm did)
> 
> Dan  dzorde@erggroup.com
> 
Once upon a time, American wrench sets came with a 19/32" wrench. 
This works out to 14.5 mm.  Any chance this is what you have found?
Shannen


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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 00:01:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Knock sensors
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In a message dated 6/2/99 9:20:46 PM Mountain Daylight Time, 
peter@ntserver.techedge.com.au writes:

<< including a cutaway of their Trionic coil - seems to have a ferrite
 core and turns ratio of about 1:5, but they claim "40,000 at the moment 
 of ignition" - explain that! >>


The voltage from an inductor is 

      v(t) = L di/dt

Also collapsing magnetic fields.  Plus 40 kV is not new to electronic 
ignition systems.

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 00:03:36 1999
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At 10:46 PM 6/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>I think there aren't alot of people that could make a computer
>controlled drivable engine with the stock ECM.  I dont thing the stock
>ECM runs into limits, rather the sides of the injectors required to
>fuel things make the idle bad.   I am not really how sure I believe
>that as my 350 Lt1 is driving 30lb injectors just find and the idle is
>just fine (after quite a bit of adjusting).   I think the other issue

I agree... I put 29.5 lb/hr injectors in my 95 LeSabre (231ci V6) and it
idled beautifully... BLM at 128 and INT bouncing between 127 and 129.
WOT was very pleasant as well with the injectors only about 60% duty cycle.



===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
   Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 00:08:53 1999
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From: "Dan Plaskett" <dynastydan@worldnet.att.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Prowler V6
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 23:06:38 -0500
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The easiest way to distinguish between cast and forged crankshafts is to
look at the parting line.  A broad surface indicates a forging.  A thin line
indicates a casting.  If the crank is out of the car tap it with a hammer
(not on the journals please).  If it rings like a bell it is forged.  A
casting will respond with a dull thud.  (Courtesy of Small Block Chevy
Performance by Dave Emanuel)
-----Original Message-----
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: Prowler V6


>eclark@hoser.com wrote:
>>
>> On Sun, 30 May 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote:
>>
>> > Bad rumor to put any faith in.  Many 4 bolt Chevys are cast crank.
>> > Post 86, only steel cranks are in LT1, LT4, and ZZx series engines
>> > (ok, ok, smallblock, 5.7, gen II engines).  Also use powdered
>> > connecting rods, prone to sudden failure rather than bending, but much
>> > stronger until they break. ; )  Ligenfelter Perf. Engineering is
>> > selling some of this stuff that they pulled at low mileage to build
>> > some stronger engines.
>>
>> I just put a new oil pan on my '93 f-body LT1, and it sure didnt look
like
>> a steel crank.  It looked like ever other cast crank i've seen.
>>
>> -Eric
>Whatsa forged crank look like in the car?
>Shannen
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 00:17:41 1999
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Frederic Breitwieser wrote:

> 
> If you have such a beast, drive to Bridgeport, CT, and I will gladly
> refute such a claim after attaching my tachometer to your engine for 30
> minutes :)

30 minutes?!  Do you think yer a little hard on the mules?
And if I had the beast I was talking about, the question wouldn't have
come about in the first place.
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 00:18:26 1999
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From: "G. Scott Ponton" <gscottp@ix.netcom.com>
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Subject: Re: Prowler V6
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There are four "standards" for fasteners. They relate to the thread pitch
more than anything although there are several different "head" sizes. Mostly
the Japanese/asian use 10, 12, 14, 17, 21, & 32. The europeon use 10, 13,
14, 17, 19, 21 and various larger sizes. Other than the English. They used
to use what was called a Whitworth standard. These are the 3/8 bolts with
the "15mm" heads. Actually they are 19/32. They also used 23/32 (i think it
was.) I haven't seen those wrenches since my tools were stolen. You used to
get them in every Craftman set up until about 1975.  You will also notice
that most, nearly all, of the English bolts are a "fine" thread pitch. It
isn't quite the same as SAE fine as the radius of the thread root is
different and although you can use one on the other they ussually are a very
tight fit and sometimes destroy the fasteners. Then of course you have SAE
standard inch sizes and the famous SAE standard metric sizes. Other than the
15mm the 16 and 18 are so close to SAE 5/8 and 11/16 that many times you can
use these sizes to remove them. Maybe had something to do with it at the
start.

Just my .02$

Scott


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 00:22:03 1999
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> I'm surprised ya haven't tried harder.

Oh, we've tried hard.  Its difficult to balance the weaknesses of oem
parts iwth high RPMs and reliability.

my 849HP Buick V6 was a perfect example - 29 minutes is not reliable!

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 00:35:45 1999
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From: "Dan Plaskett" <dynastydan@worldnet.att.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Best Chevy EFI engine
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 23:32:29 -0500
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Michael,

You could do what I am currently doing and build a small block 400 bored
.030 gives you a 406 ci with boatloads of torque.  I know that there are
complete TPI units available for reasonable $$$.  I pulled a harness out of
a 88 Cutlass this past weekend and a computer for almost nothing.  The 400
aren't nearly as plentiful as 350s but you can certainly find them.  Mine
came out of a 76 Caprice.  With a proper cam and 10.5 to 1 compression ratio
pistons you can easily pump out 450 ft lb of torque or more.

Dan Plaskett

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Selig <mbs@itw.com>
To: Electronic Fuel Injection list <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Cc: hml@mailinglists.org <hml@mailinglists.org>
Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 9:54 PM
Subject: Best Chevy EFI engine


>I am looking to do  a couple engine swaps in the near future.  I would like
>to put a Vortec or equivalvent TPI engine in a Hummer.  This needs to have
>an RV cam and lots of low end torque to move that 68k lb alum shell around
>on the rocks and such.
>
>My question is:  What is the best all around chevy engine and car,
> year --to approach an auto salvage yard to acquire the engine harness and
>computer, and everything complete that is needed, all in one shot.
>
>I believe that camaros came with it in 1989.  Or should one look to take
one
>out of later blazer or suburban..??
>
>My stock 350 TBI from the Hummer could probably be replanted in the a 79 CJ
>5.  Would be nice to upgrade it to TPI.
>
>What is your advise??
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
>-------------------------------------
>Good judgment comes from experience, and a lotta that comes from bad
>judgment.
>
>"Reality will kill you unless you deal with it through myths and
metaphors."
>Ray Bradbury
>
>Learn from the mistakes of others.
>You can't live long enough to make them all yourself.
>
>"This Millenium was for practice.
>Next one counts!"
>
>Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the
>straights
>
>Laws of Life:
>1) Don't sweat the small stuff.
>2) Everything is small stuff.
>
>"Love may be blind, but marriage is a real eye-opener"
>
>Michael Selig, MD, FACC.
>www.lifelinecardiology.com
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 00:53:14 1999
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 21:49:12 -0800
From: Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
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Bill Edgeworth <bedgew@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
> I am adapting a 730 to a Mopar RB engine and I have some questions about
> Knock sensors:
> How sensitive are knock sensors to noise generated by gear drives? If
> they are affected would selection solve the problem? ( for instance a
> knock sensor off a factory supercharged engine)
> What about noise from mechanical (roller cams)?

My gear drive Ford 2.8 (EEC-IV w/ carb) uses a knock sensor.  It also
has solid (click, click, click) lifters.  The knock sensor is screwed
into a standoff that screws into the side skirt of the block.  I'm not
sure if the standoff is for noise isolation or to adapt between SAE
threads on the KS and metric in the block.  BTW, the standoff is, um,
press together.

(Hmmm, with almost 800 miles on the freshly rebuilt 2.8, it is starting
to make more power.  This started around 650 miles.  I'm not noticing
any lifter clacking anymore either.  Perhaps the KS was retarding the
timing due to lifter noise.)

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 00:53:11 1999
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Brandon Shehan <SHEHAN@clds.net> wrote:
> I have a 3.4 L GM V-6 in my Jeep Cherokee [...]
>
> I got a rotten TBI 2.8 S-10 Blazer engine [...]
>
> I also have the ECU (service number 1227429).  I'm pricing
> out harnesses to replicate GM's  and need to know if the ECU will be
> thoroughly confused by the 20% increase in displacement and need
> reprogramming.

GM does/did offer a crate 3.4 upgrade for worn out S-10 2.8's.  This
upgrade includes a new chip for the ECM.  Perhaps you can order just the
chip by itself.

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 00:57:57 1999
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Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 01:01:44 -0400
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
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Roger Heflin wrote:
> 
> On Wed, 2 Jun 1999, Curtis Mittong wrote:
> 
> > Whoever has knowledge of this stuff may want to contact me offlist.  I have
> > alot of dumb questions that are probably below your intelligence levels and
> > I don't want to clog up the list with too much "entry-level" chatter.
> >
> > Background:  I have a 96 Impala SS.  I plan on making the LT1 into a 409
> > (4.030 x 4"...which actually makes 408.17) and totally starting from the
> > ground up.  I am tired of bolt-ons that make a certain HP, I want to tailor
> > each part to each other part and get a good reliable streetable engine.  I
> > am planning on output being in the 600+ hp range.  
<snip>
 I think with the right
> > tuning, I could get 650hp to pass a sniffer, but without OBD2 compatibility,
> > I'm not technically legal.
> >
> 
> I think there aren't alot of people that could make a computer
> controlled drivable engine with the stock ECM.  I dont thing the stock
> ECM runs into limits, rather the sides of the injectors required to
> fuel things make the idle bad.   I am not really how sure I believe
> that as my 350 Lt1 is driving 30lb injectors just find and the idle is
> just fine (after quite a bit of adjusting).   I think the other issue
> is with radical changes you need to change more than just the WOT fuel
> table, you need to properly adjust the VE table for things to run
> good, and this takes alot of time to do properly.
> 
<more snip>
> >
There is a web site that has stories from a person/company that was
working to make 500 hp emission legal Vettes.  I'm not sure of the
years, and I can't quite remember the name of the man, but the web
page gives a good sense of what it takes to make this work.  This
company was associated with race cars at one time, and maybe
suspension parts or work.  It isn't Ligenfelter or Calloway.  Anyone
have any suggestions?
Shannen


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From: William T Wilson <fluffy@snurgle.org>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Diff types
In-Reply-To: <004201bead15$c2362780$fc4006d1@engineering-int>
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On Wed, 2 Jun 1999, SPECTRO COATING CORP. wrote:

> Actually - Torsen was the manufacturer - Bob (I think that's his first
> name) Gleason invented that differential design. Zexel was the

I know.  All four of those definitions were jokes - although a lot of
people do seem to think that somebody named Torsen (which actually means
Torque Sensing, I believe) invented it :}


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 01:02:19 1999
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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 00:02:00 -0500 (CDT)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Prowler V6
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On Wed, 2 Jun 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote:

> Todd....!! wrote:
> > 
> > It's true....
> > 
> > That the almighty crescent wrench may be used for multiple tasks...
> I once found a crescent that had been lying beside the road for
> years.  It was rusted solid, and no amount of effort could free up the
> thumbwheel.  Alas, it was a one size fits-all.

Once my brother found a broke craftsman hammer in a $25 Chevette he
bought.  He took the hammer to sears and got it replaced, and the car 
ended up being a pretty good deal after all :)

-Eric


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 01:30:41 1999
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Subject: SBC V8 into Astro/Safari ?
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 01:32:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <00a201bead78$0d51d4a0$705eddcf@gponton> from "G. Scott Ponton" at Jun 2, 99 11:17:52 pm
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I am looking for as much info as possible on the V8 into GM minivan swap

a number of people offered me help before but I cannot find where I saved the
messages (I have about 400 MB of archived email and it grows 4-5mb / day)

I want to retain stock computer TBI system from 1986 Safari Cargo minivan

I need details on
1. mounts, rads, waterpumps, etc for the mechanical installation
can I use the 4.3 flexplate I have now for the 700 AT
what headers work ( v8 into S10/15?)

2. chip changes in the ECU that are required to make it run and be within 
emissions for the 1986 model year

I should be able to use the stock TBI unit with a new cal
I seem to remember that I have to change an addr. in the chip to tell the
ECU it is now running 8 cyl instead of 6

any other details that could be supplied would be great

Thanks
Clive



n


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 01:35:47 1999
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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 01:35:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@snurgle.org>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Prowler V6
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On Wed, 2 Jun 1999, Frederic Breitwieser wrote:

> While I like taking chances and blowing up engines (personal hobby of my
> friends and I), I will state that *I* or *WE* have never successfully
> revved any production V8 engine to 10,000 RPM.

The only V8 engines I ever heard of that went 10,000 RPM were in
single-seat racers.

Honda VTEC engines and Mazda rotaries can rev like mad because that's what
they do.  Instead of displacement, they have RPM.  Mazda rotary has a
stock redline of 8,000 RPM and that is conservative; new S2000 Honda VTEC
has a stock redline of 9,000 RPM.  Neither of these engines is going to be
even slightly upset about going to 10,000 once in a while.

You just can't do that with a big V8, though.  It weighs too much.


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 01:35:53 1999
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From: "Curtis Mittong" <poohbear@twd.net>
To: <diy_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: OBD2 solutions
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 01:37:19 -0400
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------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BEAD61.9E6F9BA0
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Thanks all for your inputs.

>I dont thing the stock
>ECM runs into limits, rather the sides of the injectors required to
>fuel things make the idle bad.

This is good.  I didn't know that larger injectors made potentially rough
idles.  Its stuff like this that I need to know.

>Now maybe if you went with solid lifters and raised the
>rev limiter to 7k+ you could get that kind of hp, but I don't think
>most people class solid lifters as streetable, and the engine life
>with that stroke and high rpms would be severly limited.
>Now there are a few people getting over 600hp on a streetable Lt1 but
>they are all using large blowers (close to 20psi or more), or large
>N2O shots.


Do you think that maybe 4-valve heads could support alot more accurate flow
with hydraulic lifters?  I agree that solid lifters aren't the answer.  I
built a 455 pontiac with solids and the 3000 mile adjustments started
getting to me.  (it had 522 at the rears, but the constant 104 octane bills
hurt too)  As far as the RPMs, I couldn't take it over 6500 and feel good
about the longevity of the package.  I guess what I'm thinking is that if
592 is possible with hydraulic lifters, maybe 600+ is possible.  I need to
find that writeup and give you all the specs on that LT1 that CHP mag built.
I'm still trying to find the final verdict on the cylinder walls.  I thought
they were too thin to even go 30-over, but I read about a kit for LT1s that
was a 414 ci stroker kit that called for a 60-over.  They also have 4.125"
stroke cranks, but I thought for sure you would be into the jackets
clearancing that.  Whooda thunk it?

>idled beautifully... BLM at 128 and INT bouncing between 127 and 129.
>WOT was very pleasant as well with the injectors only about 60% duty cycle.

Ummm.... BLM?  INT?  Big Loud Motor?  Impressive New Trailer?

Curtis Mittong

------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BEAD61.9E6F9BA0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks all for your inputs.&nbsp; =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&gt;I dont thing the =
stock<BR>&gt;ECM runs into=20
limits, rather the sides </FONT><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>of the =
injectors=20
required to<BR>&gt;fuel things make the idle bad.&nbsp;&nbsp; =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>This is good.&nbsp; I didn't know =
that larger=20
injectors made potentially rough idles.&nbsp; Its stuff like this that I =
need to=20
know.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&gt;Now maybe if you went with solid =
lifters and=20
raised the<BR>&gt;rev limiter to 7k+ you could get that kind of hp, but =
I don't=20
think<BR>&gt;most people class solid lifters as streetable, and the =
engine=20
life<BR>&gt;with that stroke and high rpms would be severly =
limited.<BR>&gt;Now=20
there are a few people getting over 600hp on a streetable Lt1 =
but<BR>&gt;they=20
are all using large blowers (close to 20psi or more), or =
large<BR>&gt;N2O=20
shots.<BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Do you think that maybe 4-valve =
heads could=20
support alot more accurate flow with hydraulic lifters?&nbsp; I agree =
that solid=20
lifters aren't the answer.&nbsp; I built a 455 pontiac with solids and =
the 3000=20
mile adjustments started getting to me.&nbsp; (it had 522 at the rears, =
but the=20
constant 104 octane bills hurt too)&nbsp; As far as the RPMs, I couldn't =
take it=20
over 6500 and feel good about the longevity of the package.&nbsp; I =
guess what=20
I'm thinking is that if 592 is possible with hydraulic lifters, maybe =
600+ is=20
possible.&nbsp; I need to find that writeup and give you all the specs =
on that=20
LT1 that CHP mag built.&nbsp; I'm still trying to find the final verdict =
on the=20
cylinder walls.&nbsp; I thought they were too thin to even go 30-over, =
but I=20
read about a kit for LT1s that was a 414 ci stroker kit that called for =
a=20
60-over.&nbsp; They also have 4.125&quot; stroke cranks, but I thought =
for sure=20
you would be into the jackets clearancing that.&nbsp; Whooda thunk=20
it?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&gt;idled beautifully... BLM at 128 =
and INT=20
bouncing between 127 and 129.<BR>&gt;WOT was very pleasant as well with =
the=20
injectors only about 60% duty cycle.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Ummm.... BLM?&nbsp; INT?&nbsp; Big =
Loud=20
Motor?&nbsp; Impressive New Trailer?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Curtis =
Mittong</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BEAD61.9E6F9BA0--


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 01:39:29 1999
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <01bea80a$e3c17b80$LocalHost@nwester> <374D73B5.A588E9BB@xephic.dynip.com> <374DC1E0.6B46@c-com.net> <003d01bea886$778d8540$c8140b98@agfa.bayer.com> <374EC469.7F83@c-com.net> <375207EE.37F386A2@grolen.com> <011401beabb0$a5ba5b00$1d01d4cd@gderian> <000d01beabd7$c32ce410$28167018@ktchnr1.on.wave.home.com> <006701beac28$af8d60a0$8f01d4cd@gderian> <3755EB6A.E968DC83@grolen.com> <3755F35F.2D8C2D3C@xephic.dynip.com> <009601bead73$2c834fc0$2f633acf@nacelp> <375602E4.C3B76F19@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Prowler V6
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 01:39:59 -0400
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No one had mentioned reliably, til now, the question was just 10,000 rpm.
Doc


| > I'm surprised ya haven't tried harder.
| Oh, we've tried hard.  Its difficult to balance the weaknesses of oem
| parts iwth high RPMs and reliability.
| my 849HP Buick V6 was a perfect example - 29 minutes is not reliable!



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 02:16:41 1999
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Subject: Re: Types of differentials/Traction aiding devices
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 02:17:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <011901bead54$345079e0$c0bec7cf@l9m4y6> from "C. Brooks" at Jun 2, 99 08:01:16 pm
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> 
> Having the diff locked won't make any difference in mileage.

onroad 
it can reduce milage very sligtly because of the binding in the drivtrain

offroad

it will increase milage
if you spend a lot of time spinning tires and going nowhere without it


its a good trade

Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 02:43:03 1999
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Subject: Re: Prowler V6
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Surely not, these are the type you just go to the local hardware and get (not
high tensile), still shiny plating on them and its a big hardware chain so stock
should be replenished quite often. Maybe its the Asian version of the imperial
sizes.  Use a 10mm casting but thread it to 3/8" ?

Dan  dzorde@erggroup.com





Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com> on 03-06-99 11:55:52 AM

Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

To:   diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc:    (bcc: Dan Zorde/Transit/ERG_Group)

Subject:  Re: Prowler V6




dzorde@erggroup.com wrote:
>
> Yeah, there are the Asian metric sizes (like 12mm, 15mm, 18mm hex heads) and
> European metric sizes (like 13mm, 17mm, 19mm hex heads).  And lately I have
> started finding 3/8" nuts and bolts with 15mm hex heads (I was quite surprised
> to find that neither a 9/16" or a 5/8" ring spanner would fit, but a 15mm did)
>
> Dan  dzorde@erggroup.com
>
Once upon a time, American wrench sets came with a 19/32" wrench.
This works out to 14.5 mm.  Any chance this is what you have found?
Shannen








From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 03:11:59 1999
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Actually the Trionic system is a capacitive Discharge (CDI)
system so that it's actually an expanding AND collapsing magnetic
field (sorry to be so technical!).

Another interesting thing is that the primary coil is just 10 turns.
They used flat wire to give a low resistance AND so thay could cool
the coils more easily. As it's a CDI system, the capacitor is charged
to perhaps 400 Volts and this also helps to generate the claimed
40,000 Volts (that's just a 1:100 ratio, not 1:3000 for a 12-14 Volt 
conventional ignition system)

A70Duster@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Peter Gargano  wrote:
> 
> << including a cutaway of their Trionic coil - seems to have a ferrite
>  core and turns ratio of about 1:5, but they claim "40,000 at the moment
>  of ignition" - explain that! >>
> 
> The voltage from an inductor is
> 
>       v(t) = L di/dt
> 
> Also collapsing magnetic fields.  Plus 40 kV is not new to electronic
> ignition systems.

-- 
Peter Gargano

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 06:49:54 1999
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From: William T Wilson <fluffy@snurgle.org>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: OBD2 problems
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On Thu, 3 Jun 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote:

> There is a web site that has stories from a person/company that was
> working to make 500 hp emission legal Vettes.  I'm not sure of the

Are you thinking about Chuck Mallett?

I think it's mallettcars.com or mallett.com or mallettracing.com or
something like that.  Those are real nice cars - guaranteed 435HP, with
blower will go as high as you want.  They basically rebuild the engine
from scratch - new just about everything.

Probably has a forged crank, too :}


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 06:50:59 1999
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From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Knock sensors
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At 09:49 PM 6/2/99 -0800, you wrote:

>
>My gear drive Ford 2.8 (EEC-IV w/ carb) uses a knock sensor.  It also
>has solid (click, click, click) lifters.  The knock sensor is screwed
>into a standoff that screws into the side skirt of the block.  I'm not
>sure if the standoff is for noise isolation or to adapt between SAE
>threads on the KS and metric in the block.  BTW, the standoff is, um,
>press together.

Ludis,
Is the 2.8 pumped up any?
My brother had a 74 ford Mustang II with the 2.8 and a 4 speed... Pretty
doggy stock.
He put on an offenhouser manifold with the 4 bbl top, an Isky torquer cam,
10:1 pistons, ported and polished heads with larger valves, headers, and a
holly 390 race only mechanical secondary carb.  The thing would wind to
8000RPM with no problem and would beat most any stock to mildly modified V8.
===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
   Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
===========================================================

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From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: OBD2 problems
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At 01:01 AM 6/3/99 -0400, you wrote:

>There is a web site that has stories from a person/company that was
>working to make 500 hp emission legal Vettes.  I'm not sure of the
>years, and I can't quite remember the name of the man, but the web
>page gives a good sense of what it takes to make this work.  This
>company was associated with race cars at one time, and maybe
>suspension parts or work.  It isn't Ligenfelter or Calloway.  Anyone
>have any suggestions?

Hennesey motorsports?
===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
   Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 06:56:25 1999
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At 01:37 AM 6/3/99 -0400, you wrote: 
>
> Thanks all for your inputs.  
>  
> >I dont thing the stock
> >ECM runs into limits, rather the sides of the injectors required to
> >fuel things make the idle bad.   
>  
> This is good.  I didn't know that larger injectors made potentially rough
> idles.  Its stuff like this that I need to know.
>  


They don't if you set the injector constant in the PCM properly, and haven't
gone to an injector so big that the minimum pulse width of the PCM is rich-rich
for the idle

 
>
> >idled beautifully... BLM at 128 and INT bouncing between 127 and 129.
> >WOT was very pleasant as well with the injectors only about 60% duty cycle.
>  
> Ummm.... BLM?  INT?  Big Loud Motor?  Impressive New Trailer?



BLM is long term fuel correction... closer to 128, the closer to "perfect" the
fuel delivery is( in the ECM's terms)... higher than 128 indicates a constantly
lean mixture that is being compensated for, lower than 128 is a constant rich
mixture that is being compensated for.
INT is the integrator or short term fuel correction. (It's values make the BLM
change to try to keep INT at or near 128)

===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
   Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 08:16:26 1999
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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 08:16:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
Subject: Re: Types of differentials/Traction aiding devices
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Previously, you (Todd....!!) wrote:
> Can ya do a W.O.T. launch with the button OFF, then turn it on in the
> middle of the launch, under FULL TORQUE?

never tried ( the landrover is not a good drag strip machine)

> 
> Just how strong is this unit?

I've sheared off driveshafts, half shafts, never had a problem with 
the diff

> 
> AND, would a car with one of these air posi's get better gas mileage
> with the posi OFF than it would with the air-posi on?

that one of the huge advantages, its a fully open dif until you lock it,
then it works like a spool. there is NO slip the axle is locked solid..

> 
> Just wondrinnnnn.........
> 
> 
> LATER!
> 
> Todd....!!
> 
> 
> Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> > 
> > > The type of posi is NOT dictated by the type of rear it's in or made for. There are limited slip, Torsen and locking differentials made for the Dana 60. If you want to know what type of unit is in the rear you'll have to actually look at it.
> > 
> > And this is not a sarcastic response, either :)
> > 
> > I'd highly recommend an ARB airlocker for this rear.  direct bolt in,
> > easy to control with a pushbutton, and totally open when needed.
> > 
> > --
> > 
> > Frederic Breitwieser
> > Bridgeport CT 06606
> > 
> > 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> > 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
> > 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
> > 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)
> 

--
Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 08:20:37 1999
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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 08:20:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
Subject: Re: Types of differentials/Traction aiding devices
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Previously, you (C. Brooks) wrote:
> That's a good question. I don't know but to put a little perspective on
> this...
> 
> One of the club members has a Toyota truck with a mild 383, TH350 tranny,
> Dual Marlin crawler transfer case both with 4.7:1 gears, and Dana axles (60
> rear, 44 front) with 5.?:1 gearing, and 36" swampers. I've seen him use
> (Abuse)  this truck pretty hard. The final drive ratio in first gear low
> range is well over 200:1. That's ALOT of torque multiplication, and he's
> never had an ARB fail (YET!)

they are strong

> 
> Having the diff locked won't make any difference in mileage.

it does, no road is straight enough and no 2 tires are exactly the same dia.
if I lock the dif the top speed does down and the fuel just pours into the engine

> 
> Charles Brooks
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Todd....!! <atc347@c-com.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 8:20 PM
> Subject: Re: Types of differentials/Traction aiding devices
> 
> 
> >Can ya do a W.O.T. launch with the button OFF, then turn it on in the
> >middle of the launch, under FULL TORQUE?
> >
> >Just how strong is this unit?
> >
> >AND, would a car with one of these air posi's get better gas mileage
> >with the posi OFF than it would with the air-posi on?
> >
> >Just wondrinnnnn.........
> >
> >
> >LATER!
> >
> >Todd....!!
> >
> >
> >Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> >>
> >> > The type of posi is NOT dictated by the type of rear it's in or made
> for. There are limited slip, Torsen and locking differentials made for the
> Dana 60. If you want to know what type of unit is in the rear you'll have to
> actually look at it.
> >>
> >> And this is not a sarcastic response, either :)
> >>
> >> I'd highly recommend an ARB airlocker for this rear.  direct bolt in,
> >> easy to control with a pushbutton, and totally open when needed.
> >>
> >> --
> >>
> >> Frederic Breitwieser
> >> Bridgeport CT 06606
> >>
> >> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> >> 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
> >> 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
> >> 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)
> >
> >
> 

--
Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8


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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: To Todd
References: <025001bea0ce$46c252c0$42198fd1@nacelp> <374F391F.AEEE209A@xephic.dynip.com> <37540BC2.1D78@c-com.net> <375419E9.4742B34E@xephic.dynip.com> <375455EB.68C@c-com.net> <37545D60.ABE2A592@xephic.dynip.com> <3755492B.3E92@c-com.net> <375588E5.525EBB35@xephic.dynip.com> <3755C03F.1709@c-com.net>
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> That's REALLY high, in my book... and I'm SURE that YOU got GREAT deals
> on everything!

I got a more than fair deal, however if I shopped the hell out of it,
I'm sure I could have done better.  Since it was my first welder, and
my friend who welds REALLY well is 2.5 hours away, I thought buying
from a local welding supplier would be the way to go, because then
when I get into trouble with parts, dumb questions, they'd be at least
supportive, which they have been to date, and to me, its worth a few
bucks.

> Did ya get a Lincoln, or what brand?  I don't remember ya mentionin?

Lincoln 170T, 220V welder.  Its not considered a hobby welder.


-- 

Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport CT 06606

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 08:32:15 1999
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> Apologise(sp!) in advance for the interruption, welder duty cycle is
> a ten minute period. 30% gives three minutes of welding to seven minutes
> cool down time. The real duty cycle is typically a taper, like 20% at
> output, to 100% at 1/3 of the max output, or something like that.

Thanks for the information.. majorly useful!!!

But I don't get why this stuff has to be so complicated.  Put a bigger
fan next to the transformer !!

Oh well.


-- 

Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport CT 06606

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)


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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 08:35:12 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Bill Shaw <bshaw@connix.com>
Subject:  Re: OBD2 problems
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>Now there are a few people getting over 600hp on a streetable Lt1 but
>they are all using large blowers (close to 20psi or more), or large
>N2O shots.

Yes,  Callaway is *only* able to get 400 hp out of their NA SuperNatural
Impala. http://www.callawaycars.com/Impala/impala.htm

------------------------------------------------------------
Bill Shaw
'78 FI Spider
(Will soon be) Fuel injected and stepping out over the line
http://www.connix.com/~bshaw/fiatefi.html
------------------------------------------------------------




From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 08:36:51 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Hard on Engines
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> 30 minutes?!  Do you think yer a little hard on the mules?

Very hard.  That's the point :)  See what it can take, then build one
and "know" what it can take.  At least with OEM parts if it blows, its
not terribly expensive if you can do most of the work yourself.

> And if I had the beast I was talking about, the question wouldn't have
> come about in the first place.

This is probably true ! :)

-- 

Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport CT 06606

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 08:46:02 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: SUN Scope
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 07:42:41 -0500 
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Thanks for the lead, I will follow up on the Snap on connection. I didn't
know that Sun was connected to Snap- On
 
Don

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Programmer [SMTP:nwester@eidnet.org]
> Sent:	Wednesday, June 02, 1999 10:15 PM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: SUN Scope
> 
> Don,
> 
> Try SnapOn / Sun division--or check their webpages for info. They usually
> have repair depots (Equiserve) that end up doing the actual repairs on
> older
> equipment. Hope this helps...
> 
> --Original Message-----
> From: Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com <Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 11:17 AM
> Subject: SUN Scope
> 
> 
> >I was given a SUN  820 engine tester with a model SS-80 scope. I plan to
> use
> >the scope with a SUN 404 distributor machine to spin
> >an HEI and  bench test a 747.  The SS-80 has a bad power transformer
> >(shorted primary) does any one have schematics or repair
> >manuals for SUN automotive test equipment. The SS-80 has a limit of 40KV
> but
> >I figure a simple voltage divider will extend that.
> >
> >Thanks for any help
> >
> >Don
> >

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 09:35:01 1999
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Subject: Re: Prowler V6
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> A lot of newer american cars are now using a mix of metric and standard in
> their cars. Oddly though these sizes seem different than what standards are in
> the rest of the world. For instance most european hex head fasteners have head
> sizes 10,13,17,19,22,24,27mm not sizes like 15 mm and 18 mm
> Anybody know why? are these maybe JIS (Japanese) as opposed to DIN (German)
> standards?
> Or did the american auto manufacturers buy stock in the tool companies?
> 
> Bill Edgeworth
> 
What uses a 9mm or 11mm?  I think there is a 16, 21  and 23 too. 
Some one would be doing a great service, if they could collect
these for scrap metal.  Toolbox real estate is not cheap!
Also what is the correct shade tree english to metric conversion?
Alot of expert mechanics, say 1/2 works for 12 or 9/16 is just a 13.
alex 

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Subject: Re: Getting loans.. (WAY off topic)
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> The GREAT part is that this store is RIGHT in front of Dad's REALLY
> expensively priced subdivision.... Could sell anything from crystal to
> Rolex's to King Cobra golf clubs and the like (the subdivision has a
> REALLY nice 18 hole golf course and club n all)
> 
> AND, of course, I'll just HAVE to have my Hi-Po parts section of the
> store for a few Hi-Po knick knacks, like a set or two of Indy heads,
> Brodix(for the Chev dudes), and Dart heads n the like for the Mush-tang
> dudes as well...
> 
> If ya'll can think of some other things that are popular these dayzzz
> please let me know?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Todd....
1. High performance Electric Golf Karts.
or other fuels, maybe H2, or put a huge muffler, CAT and FI 
gasoline engine in them. 
Last month issue or Wired had a article on Electric Drag Racing.
2. High performance golf balls.
there are some out there that really work.
3. Maybe try turning classic cars.
A couple nice race cars in parking lot wiil bring people in.
I still do work for grey-market, I ended up stareing and drooling  most of
the day at some Aston-Martin Lagonda's.  One had a nice 8 barrel
IR weber setup, the other FI, the engine builder signs his name on
the valve cover after hand beating the aluminium body.
Alex


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 10:00:11 1999
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To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Subject: Re: Prowler V6
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 09:58:56 -0400
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> > 
> What uses a 9mm or 11mm?  I think there is a 16, 21  and 23 too. 
> Some one would be doing a great service, if they could collect
> these for scrap metal.  Toolbox real estate is not cheap!
> Also what is the correct shade tree english to metric conversion?
> Alot of expert mechanics, say 1/2 works for 12 or 9/16 is just a 13.

Actually, 1/2 and 13mm are extremely close, 14mm and 9/16 are also a pair.


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 10:17:09 1999
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Subject: Re: Prowler V6
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----- Original Message -----
From: David A. Cooley <n5xmt@amsat.org>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 1999 9:58 AM
Subject: Re: Prowler V6


| > >
| > What uses a 9mm or 11mm?  I think there is a 16, 21  and 23 too.
| > Some one would be doing a great service, if they could collect
| > these for scrap metal.  Toolbox real estate is not cheap!
| > Also what is the correct shade tree english to metric conversion?
| > Alot of expert mechanics, say 1/2 works for 12 or 9/16 is just a 13.
|
| Actually, 1/2 and 13mm are extremely close, 14mm and 9/16 are also a pair.

5/8  +   16
3/4  +   19
7/8  +   21(?)
Just keep the dremel tool away from Grumpy, none of the open ends are right
anymore.
Bashful


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If you want to hear American V8s at 8900 rpm (close) just tune in the
next Nascar race on TV. I noticed the Charlotte race they had in-car
video and sound with telemetry showing car speed, engine speed, and
braking. Everybody seemed to be running about 8900 down the straights.
-- 
Robert W. Hughes (Bob)
BackYard Engineering
Houston, Texas
rwhughe@ev1.net

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 10:42:40 1999
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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 09:42:33 -0500 (CDT)
From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Prowler V6
In-Reply-To: <002d01beadc9$38d57ea0$c8140b98@agfa.bayer.com>
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On Thu, 3 Jun 1999, David A. Cooley wrote:

> > > 
> > What uses a 9mm or 11mm?  I think there is a 16, 21  and 23 too. 
> > Some one would be doing a great service, if they could collect
> > these for scrap metal.  Toolbox real estate is not cheap!
> > Also what is the correct shade tree english to metric conversion?
> > Alot of expert mechanics, say 1/2 works for 12 or 9/16 is just a 13.
> 
> Actually, 1/2 and 13mm are extremely close, 14mm and 9/16 are also a pair.
> 
> 
And 7/16 and 11 mm seem to be interchangable.

				Roger


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 10:44:27 1999
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From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: 10000rpm V8s
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On Thu, 3 Jun 1999, Robert W. Hughes wrote:

> If you want to hear American V8s at 8900 rpm (close) just tune in the
> next Nascar race on TV. I noticed the Charlotte race they had in-car
> video and sound with telemetry showing car speed, engine speed, and
> braking. Everybody seemed to be running about 8900 down the straights.

And those guys are using race parts and the life of the engine is say
maybe 1000 miles between rebuilds?

		Roger


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Subject: Re: Knocker sensors
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Hi Willy

There are many ways to desensitize a knock sensor.
One is to mount it on a standoff.. Like the previous post.
These does alter the frequency response a wee bit.
Teflon tape can be used as an attenuator as long
as electrical ground contact is maintained.
Also location is critical..
In addition although the knock sensors for later applications
are all about 3K carbon elements the LT4 sensor is
reputed to be quite a bit less sensitive.

Best way to do this is build a knock detector box
like some of the gn guys use and experiment.

and how are you billy.

;petered out




From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 11:31:41 1999
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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 11:31:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
Subject: Re: Prowler V6
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Previously, you (Bruce Plecan) wrote:
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David A. Cooley <n5xmt@amsat.org>
> To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Sent: Thursday, June 03, 1999 9:58 AM
> Subject: Re: Prowler V6
> 
> 
> | > >
> | > What uses a 9mm or 11mm?  I think there is a 16, 21  and 23 too.
> | > Some one would be doing a great service, if they could collect
> | > these for scrap metal.  Toolbox real estate is not cheap!
> | > Also what is the correct shade tree english to metric conversion?
> | > Alot of expert mechanics, say 1/2 works for 12 or 9/16 is just a 13.
> |
> | Actually, 1/2 and 13mm are extremely close, 14mm and 9/16 are also a pair.
> 
  1/4  ~   6.4
  5/16 ~   8
  7/16 ~   11
  1/2  ~   13
  9/16 ~   14
> 5/8  +   16
> 3/4  +   19
> 7/8  +   21(?)
  1 1/4 ~  36 ( subaru hub nuts)


> Just keep the dremel tool away from Grumpy, none of the open ends are right
> anymore.
> Bashful
> 

--
Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 11:38:09 1999
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From: Brandon Shehan <bshehan@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Best Chevy EFI engine..Supercharge the one You Have
Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 08:24:29 PDT
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In your application I would recomnmend either leaving the 350 in there and 
supercharging it (most cost effective it'll give you that low down power) or 
going with a 6.5 GM Diesel with Turbo....We just got some 6.5 T M1113 Heavy 
Hummers at work (I wear camouflage to work)to replace 6.2 M1097 Heavy Hummer 
in the shelter carrier role (12,000 lbs GVW) and the power is outstanding.  
Fitting a big block injected Chevy in there would be a pain.  Supercharging 
(Vortec, et al) would be the ticket....a properly enhanced 350 is all the 
power you'll need.

SGT Brandon Shehan
3rd Infantry Division


>From: "Michael Selig" <mbs@itw.com>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>To: "Electronic Fuel Injection list" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>CC: <hml@mailinglists.org>
>Subject: Best Chevy EFI engine
>Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 22:47:14 -0700
>
>I am looking to do  a couple engine swaps in the near future.  I would like
>to put a Vortec or equivalvent TPI engine in a Hummer.  This needs to have
>an RV cam and lots of low end torque to move that 68k lb alum shell around
>on the rocks and such.
>
>My question is:  What is the best all around chevy engine and car,
>  year --to approach an auto salvage yard to acquire the engine harness and
>computer, and everything complete that is needed, all in one shot.
>
>I believe that camaros came with it in 1989.  Or should one look to take 
>one
>out of later blazer or suburban..??
>
>My stock 350 TBI from the Hummer could probably be replanted in the a 79 CJ
>5.  Would be nice to upgrade it to TPI.
>
>What is your advise??
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>-------------------------------------
>Good judgment comes from experience, and a lotta that comes from bad
>judgment.
>
>"Reality will kill you unless you deal with it through myths and 
>metaphors."
>Ray Bradbury
>
>Learn from the mistakes of others.
>You can't live long enough to make them all yourself.
>
>"This Millenium was for practice.
>Next one counts!"
>
>Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the
>straights
>
>Laws of Life:
>1) Don't sweat the small stuff.
>2) Everything is small stuff.
>
>"Love may be blind, but marriage is a real eye-opener"
>
>Michael Selig, MD, FACC.
>www.lifelinecardiology.com
>


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 11:39:50 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: SBC V8 into Astro/Safari ?
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Clive Apps Techno-Logicals 416 510 0020 wrote:
> 
> I am looking for as much info as possible on the V8 into GM minivan swap
> 
> a number of people offered me help before but I cannot find where I saved the
> messages (I have about 400 MB of archived email and it grows 4-5mb / day)
> 
> I want to retain stock computer TBI system from 1986 Safari Cargo minivan
> 
> I need details on
> 1. mounts, rads, waterpumps, etc for the mechanical installation
> can I use the 4.3 flexplate I have now for the 700 AT
> what headers work ( v8 into S10/15?)

Go to www.jagsthatrun.com and get the "chevy tpi/tbi swapping book". 
It's mostly about putting EFI engines into older chevelles and the like,
but there's a chapter on the Astro conversion.  Anything you need in the
way of mechanical information should be there.

> 
> 2. chip changes in the ECU that are required to make it run and be within
> emissions for the 1986 model year

Astros came with 747 ECMs, maybe not in '86 but certainly later.  Get a
V8 747 bin from the ftp site and that should be a good starting point. 
Also a 747 ECM if you don't have one.  Mike Knell (JTR guy) says it's
best to buy a complete engine including accessories, ECM, sensors,
harness, etc.  I agree although it's probably more expensive.  That way
you minimize the number of connectors that don't fit, mystery brackets,
etc.

> 
> I should be able to use the stock TBI unit with a new cal
> I seem to remember that I have to change an addr. in the chip to tell the
> ECU it is now running 8 cyl instead of 6
> 
> any other details that could be supplied would be great

Read programming 101 and tuning tips, lots of info about the 747 ECM.

> 
> Thanks
> Clive
> 
> n

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 11:51:23 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Knocker sensors
References: <88256785.005275D4.00@pumpkin.bcit.bc.ca>
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Thanks for the info Peter,
This is a concern for me as I am still thinking about the roller after
reading an article where on an engine with less breathing ability than
mine it picked up 4/10ths over a 509
and for the price of a good 3 bolt timing set I might as well buy a gear
set.

Where could I find some info on this signal conditioner? Some people
resopnded saying that it is taken care of in the software????? I would
think that using a HC11 for signal processing would take up way to much
processor time.

Regards,

Bill

Move
Over
Profesionals
Racing

Peter Fenske wrote:

> Hi Willy
>
> There are many ways to desensitize a knock sensor.
> One is to mount it on a standoff.. Like the previous post.
> These does alter the frequency response a wee bit.
> Teflon tape can be used as an attenuator as long
> as electrical ground contact is maintained.
> Also location is critical..
> In addition although the knock sensors for later applications
> are all about 3K carbon elements the LT4 sensor is
> reputed to be quite a bit less sensitive.
>
> Best way to do this is build a knock detector box
> like some of the gn guys use and experiment.
>
> and how are you billy.
>
> ;petered out


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 12:05:43 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: TBI for a 3.4 V-6 crate Motor
References: <37560EDC.2035848A@cruzers.com>
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Ludis Langens wrote:
> 
> Brandon Shehan <SHEHAN@clds.net> wrote:
> > I have a 3.4 L GM V-6 in my Jeep Cherokee [...]
> >
> > I got a rotten TBI 2.8 S-10 Blazer engine [...]
> >
> > I also have the ECU (service number 1227429).  I'm pricing
> > out harnesses to replicate GM's  and need to know if the ECU will be
> > thoroughly confused by the 20% increase in displacement and need
> > reprogramming.
> 
> GM does/did offer a crate 3.4 upgrade for worn out S-10 2.8's.  This
> upgrade includes a new chip for the ECM.  Perhaps you can order just the
> chip by itself.

Are you sure about this?  The 3.4 crate motor is listed in the GMPP
catalog, but last time I looked it was a replacement for carbed engines
only, presumably because it didn't include an ECM or chip.  Just
curious, because I briefly considered this before I decided on the V8
for my blazer.

--steve

> 
> --
> Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
> Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 13:00:50 1999
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References: <199906011442.AA3742499424@mail.tqci.net> <37543244.B0CAD81D@xephic.dynip.com> <3755A72A.D52A81AA@grolen.com>
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5 - 10 - 15 - 20 lb. ALL for WUSSES...

Go to ANY BIG contractor build site and you'll find what I call a REAL
MAN'S Hammer, once a 'hammer' gets over 20lbs. I begin to start callin
em a Sledge hamma!

The dinky lil 10 lb.'ers are good for doin body work in those easy to
reach places that need to be 're-arranged'... such as when the 455 Buick
I was tryin to squeeze into the 72 Jag XJ6 needed a 'bit' more space on
the passenger side of the engine bay in order for the LAST cylinders
part of the exhaust manifold to clear....  Right foot on the passenger
side fender, the other foot on the cowl and about 1 to 5 minutes with
the 'lil' hammer and she fit right in....

The passenger's feet tend to get a lil toasty in the summer, but in the
winter it's JUST RIGHT! for a while anyways....

MAtter a fact, I'm STILL usin the puny STOCK XJ6 6 cylinder radiator for
the big ol hunker 455 and it tends to get a bit hot if cruisin at higway
speeds for more than a lil while without lettin off or coastin a bit
every once in a while...

Anyone have any experience with them newfangled aluminum radiators?

I'm lookin at snaggin a HOWE for about $189.00 from their website at
http://www.performancebodies.com/cooling/index.htm

Actually I couldn't find Howes' own site, unless that's the one, anyone
else?

$184 is $100 less than the COPPER 4-row radiator my budy with the other
70 Bee bought for $285 from Paddock!

ALSO, at the site listed above, they specify that a 2 row aluminum
radiator cools up to 40% MORE than a 4-ROW copper/brass one!

I would like to know if anyone here has used a Howe or any other
aftermarket or OEM aluminum radiator, especially on a HI-PO, heavily
used/abused small or Big Block car....

Thanks for any info or advice...

LATER!

Todd....
http://www.c-com.net/~atc347/toddlnk.htm

Shannen Durphey wrote:
> 
> Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> >
> > > Well... Yeah :) I keep it in my metric tool drawer, next to
> > >the metric hammer and the metric crescent wrench  ;)
> >
> > metric?  What's that?  you mean you guys don't use SAE wrenches and a
> > large 5lb sledge to make the wrench fit?
> >
> > <grin>
> >
> According to my Industrial sized BFH hammer scale, 5lbs is
> "moderate".  Large is around 10 lbs.
> Shannen
> 
> > --
> >
> > Frederic Breitwieser
> > Bridgeport CT 06606
> >
> > 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> > 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
> > 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
> > 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 13:07:03 1999
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Hi Bill

With the 3K carbon knock sensors, it should be possible
to build a resistor network to attenuate the knock
signal.

Using the knock sensor in a voltage divider with a pullup
For esc error the dc voltage is checked in the area
of 2.5 volts. As long as the ecm sees this it is happy
This brings up the possibility of using a T network.

Haven't tried it but it should work

:peter



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 13:21:15 1999
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OK Jim,

Must ask, what's hypoid gearing?  Sounds interesting....

Off-list, if ya must!

Thanks!

Todd....

Jim Davies wrote:
> 
> On Wed, 2 Jun 1999, SPECTRO COATING CORP. wrote:
> 
> > Actually - Torsen was the manufacturer - Bob (I think that's his first name)
> > Gleason invented that differential design. Zexel was the manufacturer last i
> > knew.
> >
> Last name was actually Gleasman, but he changed it to Gleason. Also known
> for hypoid gearing...



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 13:21:16 1999
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Hi Bill,

Am VERY (read: VERY!!) interested in your RB project, especially as
seeing how I have an RB engine(440+.060) as well and am planni non
F.I.'ing as well as twin Turbo'ing it as well... (It's in a 70 Bee...)

So, with that in mind, what is a 730 that you're 'adapting' to your RB?

And What all are you runnin on that thing, noticed ya mentioned gear
drive, blower, and ROLLER all in the same sentence!!  

Again, I'm VERYinterested in whatever you're doin, please do tell?

I have the need for speed, and only wanna push the Bee into the 10's,
for now, and have a little more to do before I attain even a 12.XX!!

Thanks in advance for your info, etc...

LATER!

Todd....

-------------

Bill Edgeworth wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I am adapting a 730 to a Mopar RB engine and I have some questions about
> Knock sensors:
> How sensitive are knock sensors to noise generated by gear drives? If
> they are affected would selection solve the problem? ( for instance a
> knock sensor off a factory supercharged engine)
> What about noise from mechanical (roller cams)?
> 
> Bill Edgeworth



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 13:21:17 1999
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OK,

I'm REALLY new to the termonology in these parts...

Would op-amp and KS, and comparator be listed in the list of terms for
this group?  If not, please define?

Thanks!

Todd....



Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> Heck, they can pick up the fractured ribs in a serpentine belt.  A poor
> Alternator bearing.  Timing gears might give it KS a migrane, from all the
> noise.
>    Next chance, I get I think I'm gonna try an op-amp, and comparator, and
> see what I get.
>    In my experiments with the ESC Module KS, there were slight differences.
> >From memory, was a max of like 4 degrees knock to 0 for a given engine.
> Bruce
> 
> | Hi all,
> | I am adapting a 730 to a Mopar RB engine and I have some questions about
> | Knock sensors:
> | How sensitive are knock sensors to noise generated by gear drives? If
> | they are affected would selection solve the problem? ( for instance a
> | knock sensor off a factory supercharged engine)
> | What about noise from mechanical (roller cams)?
> | Bill Edgeworth



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 13:21:18 1999
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Thanks for the clarification Peter,

However, when yo mention that 'ARB's can only be used on surfaces with a
low coefficient of friction. That is, off road, or drag racing.'

Drag racing MOSTLY relies on GETTING TRACTION, whereas a HIGH
coefficient of friction (Good to GREAT) i.e. traction, is one of the
primary goals...

I'm confused about your post...

Any help?

Thanks,

Todd....


Peter D. Hipson wrote:
> 
> ARB's can only be used on surfaces with a low coefficient of friction. That
> is, off road, or drag racing. In either of these areas, who cares about
> mileage! Strong: well, we beat the hell out of them on trails, and they
> don't break very often. Most common problem is air leaks, etc.
> 
> At 04:30 PM 6/2/99 -0700, you wrote:
> >Can ya do a W.O.T. launch with the button OFF, then turn it on in the
> >middle of the launch, under FULL TORQUE?
> >
> >Just how strong is this unit?
> >
> >AND, would a car with one of these air posi's get better gas mileage
> >with the posi OFF than it would with the air-posi on?
> >
> >Just wondrinnnnn.........
> >
> >
> >LATER!
> >
> >Todd....!!
> >
> >
> >Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> >>
> >> > The type of posi is NOT dictated by the type of rear it's in or made
> for. There are limited slip, Torsen and locking differentials made for the
> Dana 60. If you want to know what type of unit is in the rear you'll have
> to actually look at it.
> >>
> >> And this is not a sarcastic response, either :)
> >>
> >> I'd highly recommend an ARB airlocker for this rear.  direct bolt in,
> >> easy to control with a pushbutton, and totally open when needed.
> >>
> >> --
> >>
> >> Frederic Breitwieser
> >> Bridgeport CT 06606
> >>
> >> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> >> 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
> >> 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
> >> 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)
> >
> >
> >
> Thanks,
>         Peter Hipson (founder, NEHOG)
>         1995 White NA Hummer Wagon



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 13:21:20 1999
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WOW, Thanks Jim!

I think my 70 Bee came with a Super Trac Pack, so maybe I have the
Trac-lok version?

It works good whatever the name is!

Take er easy mang!

LATER!

Todd....

--------

Jim Davies wrote:
> 
> On Wed, 2 Jun 1999, Todd....!! wrote:
> 
> > Is the Dana 60 considered a Sure Grip?  Or just a posi?
> >
> > Don't know what to call it, now that I think about it, anybody?
> >
> Older 60s used an Eaton PowrLok [2 piece case] later ones used a Trac-Lok
> [one piece case, no ramps]
> 
> Older 8 3/4s used a PowrLok. In 1968-9 they started using the Borg-Warner
> Spin-resistant [cone-type]
> 
> Older [50s-60s] GMs used the Powr-Lok also
> 
> Olds used the spin-resistant in the late 60s
> 
> Ford 8 3/4-9-9 3/8 inch dropouts used a small, plate type LSD called an
> Equalock [aka Equapop] which, due to the small available diff size, was
> never used with 427s. The cars came with a 4 pinion open diff and a
> no-spin could be installed at the dealer or  elsewhere.
> 
> All of the above [except the no-spin] are limited slips, with a plethora
> of marketing names, like 'positraction' 'safe-t-track' 'sure-grip' etc
> etc.
> 
> Just think of a conventional differential, with a bit of friction between
> each axle shaft and the diff case added. Breakaway torques are in the area
> of 30 to 250 ft lbs. Once you exceed the breakaway torque, they act like a
> conventional diff. The breakaway torque varies a lot between individual
> samples of identical units.
> 
> The Powr-Lok has a 'feedback' capability making it more desireable, and
> more expensive to mfr. Obsolete. It was the best of the plate types, IMO.
> 
> Oh, yeah. There is no more good posi lube available, complicating things.



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 13:21:13 1999
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Thanks for the info as well Bob!

Will take this into consideration....

REALLY appreciate it, probably saved me COUNTLESS hours of sittin around
waitin for equipment to cool down!  YUK!  What a WASTE that would
beeee....

LATER,

Todd....

rr wrote:
> 
> Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> <snip>
> > have a lot of tubing to weld together and panels, firewalls, etc, so
> > something more heavy duty was important.  These things are not only
> > rated in voltage/current output, but also duty cycle... keep that in
> > mind.  If a particular unit can give you 30A at a 30% duty cycle, that
> > means you can weld for a minute, then wait three.  Stepping up a size,
> > could be rated at 50A at the same duty cycle, which means if you only
> > need 30A, you now have a much higher duty cycle.
> >
> 
> Apologise(sp!) in advance for the interruption, welder duty cycle is
> based on
> a ten minute period. 30% gives three minutes of welding to seven minutes
> of
> cool down time. The real duty cycle is typically a taper, like 20% at
> max
> output, to 100% at 1/3 of the max output, or something like that.
> 
> BobR.
> 
> (Who him-self couldn't find out this info for a looonnnggg time...)
> 
> <snip>
> > few people to weld little trailer brackets back on, etc, mostly minor
> > stuff.  No one's been brave enough to bring by a rust-bucket that
> > needs its quarters cut and welded.
> >
> > --
> >
> > Frederic Breitwieser
> > Bridgeport CT 06606
> >
> > 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> > 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
> > 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
> > 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)



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| OK,
| I'm REALLY new to the termonology in these parts...
| Would op-amp and KS, and comparator be listed in the list of terms for
| this group?  If not, please define?

Operational Amplifier, an amplifier
Comparator, something that compares
KS,  Knock Sensor
Radio Shack has a series of little "Mini Engineer's  Notebooks"  that cover
the basics in opto couplers, op-amps, comparators,555s, and they have a
beginners electronics book by Forrest Mimms III, that help.
Doc

| Thanks!
| Todd....
 Bruce Plecan wrote:
| > Heck, they can pick up the fractured ribs in a serpentine belt.  A poor
| > Alternator bearing.  Timing gears might give it KS a migrane, from all
the
| > noise.
| >    Next chance, I get I think I'm gonna try an op-amp, and comparator,
and
| > see what I get.
| >    In my experiments with the ESC Module KS, there were slight
differences.
| > >From memory, was a max of like 4 degrees knock to 0 for a given engine.
| > Bruce
| > | Hi all,
| > | I am adapting a 730 to a Mopar RB engine and I have some questions
about
| > | Knock sensors:
| > | How sensitive are knock sensors to noise generated by gear drives? If
| > | they are affected would selection solve the problem? ( for instance a
| > | knock sensor off a factory supercharged engine)
| > | What about noise from mechanical (roller cams)?
| > | Bill Edgeworth



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 14:08:18 1999
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From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Knocker sensors
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On Thu, 3 Jun 1999, Peter Fenske wrote:

> 
> 
> Hi Bill
> 
> With the 3K carbon knock sensors, it should be possible
> to build a resistor network to attenuate the knock
> signal.
> 
> Using the knock sensor in a voltage divider with a pullup
> For esc error the dc voltage is checked in the area
> of 2.5 volts. As long as the ecm sees this it is happy
> This brings up the possibility of using a T network.
> 
> Haven't tried it but it should work
> 
> :peter
> 

It does work.   There are people on the f-body group that have 
tested it.   Right now mine is attenuated 100% (the knock sensor
failed) and right now I am running it disabled.

So far no knock problems.

		Roger


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From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
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Subject: Re: Knocker sensors
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On Thu, 3 Jun 1999, Bill Edgeworth wrote:

> Thanks for the info Peter,
> This is a concern for me as I am still thinking about the roller after
> reading an article where on an engine with less breathing ability than
> mine it picked up 4/10ths over a 509
> and for the price of a good 3 bolt timing set I might as well buy a gear
> set.
> 
> Where could I find some info on this signal conditioner? Some people
> resopnded saying that it is taken care of in the software????? I would
> think that using a HC11 for signal processing would take up way to much
> processor time.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Bill
> 
> Move
> Over
> Profesionals
> Racing

As far as the diagrams go from the HELM manuals I have, the ESC module
(on GM's) appears to do the signal conditioning.  If it detects enough
energy in the right areas it pulls a output high and the computer
interpretes this as knock.   Now there probably could be some
improvement in the ESC module that would make it more correctly detect
knock.

And how the computer respondes when it gets knock is taken care of in
software, ie max retard and how fast it retarts, and how fast it
recovers.

			Roger


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 14:11:51 1999
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Thanks for that experiential info Grumpy!

I 'preciate it as well...

LATER!

Todd....

-------

Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> | > > Try these guys:
> | > > Linder Technical Services (317-487-1868 or www.lindertech.com)
> 
> I've talked to Jim, and bothered his staff with questions from time to time,
> and they seem to be nice folks.  I bought a scanner from him, and it was as
> advertised.
>    I've used reconditioned injectors (thou not his), and have had good
> results.
> Grumpy



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 14:11:53 1999
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From: "Todd....!!" <atc347@c-com.net>
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This lil ding trick works on just about ANY objects mad eouta the same
two types of materials...

Such as Flex plates?  I had a stocker Mopar flex plate, held it up to a
TCI SFI approved plate, the stocker thuded HARD whereas the TCI rang
just like a bell, aside from the ringin, the two plates were TOTALLY
IDENTICAL!

A magnet even stuck to both of em.... So no help there...

I did the test because I wondered why the Stock type flex plate cost
only like $8, whereas the TCI unit cost over $40!

Now I know, PLUS the TCI plate has held up to the 440 in almost perfect
tune for over 3 or 4 months now!   Whereas the stocker plates would
brake only after a month or less!!

LATER!

Todd....


Dan Plaskett wrote:
> 
> The easiest way to distinguish between cast and forged crankshafts is to
> look at the parting line.  A broad surface indicates a forging.  A thin line
> indicates a casting.  If the crank is out of the car tap it with a hammer
> (not on the journals please).  If it rings like a bell it is forged.  A
> casting will respond with a dull thud.  (Courtesy of Small Block Chevy
> Performance by Dave Emanuel)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 9:58 PM
> Subject: Re: Prowler V6
> 
> >eclark@hoser.com wrote:
> >>
> >> On Sun, 30 May 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote:
> >>
> >> > Bad rumor to put any faith in.  Many 4 bolt Chevys are cast crank.
> >> > Post 86, only steel cranks are in LT1, LT4, and ZZx series engines
> >> > (ok, ok, smallblock, 5.7, gen II engines).  Also use powdered
> >> > connecting rods, prone to sudden failure rather than bending, but much
> >> > stronger until they break. ; )  Ligenfelter Perf. Engineering is
> >> > selling some of this stuff that they pulled at low mileage to build
> >> > some stronger engines.
> >>
> >> I just put a new oil pan on my '93 f-body LT1, and it sure didnt look
> like
> >> a steel crank.  It looked like ever other cast crank i've seen.
> >>
> >> -Eric
> >Whatsa forged crank look like in the car?
> >Shannen
> >



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 14:11:56 1999
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Maybe 29 minutes isn't a long time when daily driving the sucker, but 29
minutes at a quarter mile at a time is a LIFETIME! ey?

LATER!

Todd....




Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
> > I'm surprised ya haven't tried harder.
> 
> Oh, we've tried hard.  Its difficult to balance the weaknesses of oem
> parts iwth high RPMs and reliability.
> 
> my 849HP Buick V6 was a perfect example - 29 minutes is not reliable!



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 14:11:58 1999
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Speakin of different size wrenches, anyone here ever heard of or used a
set a tools known as Met-Wrench?

The commercial makes them out to be some sorta SUPER wrenches, they
don't look like too high quality of metal was used to make em, to me
anyways...

Anyone?

LATER!

Todd....



G. Scott Ponton wrote:
> 
> There are four "standards" for fasteners. They relate to the thread pitch
> more than anything although there are several different "head" sizes. Mostly
> the Japanese/asian use 10, 12, 14, 17, 21, & 32. The europeon use 10, 13,
> 14, 17, 19, 21 and various larger sizes. Other than the English. They used
> to use what was called a Whitworth standard. These are the 3/8 bolts with
> the "15mm" heads. Actually they are 19/32. They also used 23/32 (i think it
> was.) I haven't seen those wrenches since my tools were stolen. You used to
> get them in every Craftman set up until about 1975.  You will also notice
> that most, nearly all, of the English bolts are a "fine" thread pitch. It
> isn't quite the same as SAE fine as the radius of the thread root is
> different and although you can use one on the other they ussually are a very
> tight fit and sometimes destroy the fasteners. Then of course you have SAE
> standard inch sizes and the famous SAE standard metric sizes. Other than the
> 15mm the 16 and 18 are so close to SAE 5/8 and 11/16 that many times you can
> use these sizes to remove them. Maybe had something to do with it at the
> start.
> 
> Just my .02$
> 
> Scott



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 14:12:03 1999
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From: "Todd....!!" <atc347@c-com.net>
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Motorcycles go up to what 15,000 rpm's or so?

What's up with that then?  They aren't usin aluminum rods and such are
they?

ALSO, the 'BIG' v-8's can be lightened BIG TIME...

The most important weight to reduce first is the weight that is the
furthest from the center of the crank, because, usually, at the furthest
point, the higher speed of the part will occur... such as the tip of the
piston, the piston in general can be lightened, at least on a B.B. Mopar
by about a pound EACH!  (By buying aftermarket, of course), so I'm sure
the other engine's can be lightened in the same manner..

So that's 8 lb's off of part of the reciprocating assembly where the
lightening has most of it's effects on load n all...

THEN ya lighten the rods(But aftermarket(about $750 on up) for aluminum
or titanium rods, and lighten them up even more, if possible!  I bet you
can save over a pound per rod with this swap, that's ANOTHER 8 lbs. off
the internal rotating/reciprocating assembly...

A TOTAL of 16 lbs. thus far!

THEN take the CRANK, turn the counterbalances WAY down to account for 16
lbs. worth of lightening to the rotating/reciprocating assembly that it'
supposed to counterbalance.... You should lose about another 8 lbs. AT
LEAST, if not more.

Then turn the Main and rod journals a few thou's to reduce (turning the
rod journals reduces the weight of the outermost part of the crank
itself thus lightening the entire total just a bit more) AND reduces the
friction coefficient at the journals themselves, thus increasing the
total HP output at ANY rpm...due to reducing internal friction
losses....

The Mopar 451 stroker 400 engine uses ALL of these tricks in order to
reduce the overall weight of the engine as well as a majority of it's
internal component weight by MAJOR proportions, as you can see!

ALSO the pistons themselves in the 451 stroker are WAY SHORTER than the
stocker pistons that they replace, thus accounting for the massive
weight loss of the pistons themselves!

For more info about the 451, go to http://www.c-com.net/~atc347/451/

My goal is to F.I. and Turbo on eof these babies, kinda like Fre B. is
doin....  Talk bout power!

Take er easy...

LATER!

Todd....
http://www.c-com.net/~atc347/toddlnk.htm


William T Wilson wrote:
> 
> On Wed, 2 Jun 1999, Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
> > While I like taking chances and blowing up engines (personal hobby of my
> > friends and I), I will state that *I* or *WE* have never successfully
> > revved any production V8 engine to 10,000 RPM.
> 
> The only V8 engines I ever heard of that went 10,000 RPM were in
> single-seat racers.
> 
> Honda VTEC engines and Mazda rotaries can rev like mad because that's what
> they do.  Instead of displacement, they have RPM.  Mazda rotary has a
> stock redline of 8,000 RPM and that is conservative; new S2000 Honda VTEC
> has a stock redline of 9,000 RPM.  Neither of these engines is going to be
> even slightly upset about going to 10,000 once in a while.
> 
> You just can't do that with a big V8, though.  It weighs too much.


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 14:20:38 1999
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Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 14:20:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
Subject: Re: Types of differentials/Traction aiding devices
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Previously, you (Todd....!!) wrote:
> Thanks for the clarification Peter,
> 
> However, when yo mention that 'ARB's can only be used on surfaces with a
> low coefficient of friction

or straight line driving, most drivers don't call straight line stuff
real driving, corners are where the men are seperated from the boys 
  ( ducking for cover 8))

>. That is, off road, or drag racing.'
> 
> Drag racing MOSTLY relies on GETTING TRACTION, whereas a HIGH
> coefficient of friction (Good to GREAT) i.e. traction, is one of the
> primary goals...
> 
> I'm confused about your post...
> 
> Any help?

it's like parttime 4wd you can drive it on dry pavement but cornering is hard 
on driveline parts. My landrover wont turn a corner with the back dif locked. the 
front tires just plow. Ever driven a 3 wheel atc and try to turn sharply without
pinning the back tires?? same thing


> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Todd....
> 
> 
> Peter D. Hipson wrote:
> > 
> > ARB's can only be used on surfaces with a low coefficient of friction. That
> > is, off road, or drag racing. In either of these areas, who cares about
> > mileage! Strong: well, we beat the hell out of them on trails, and they
> > don't break very often. Most common problem is air leaks, etc.
> > 
> > At 04:30 PM 6/2/99 -0700, you wrote:
> > >Can ya do a W.O.T. launch with the button OFF, then turn it on in the
> > >middle of the launch, under FULL TORQUE?
> > >
> > >Just how strong is this unit?
> > >
> > >AND, would a car with one of these air posi's get better gas mileage
> > >with the posi OFF than it would with the air-posi on?
> > >
> > >Just wondrinnnnn.........
> > >
> > >
> > >LATER!
> > >
> > >Todd....!!
> > >
> > >
> > >Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> > >>
> > >> > The type of posi is NOT dictated by the type of rear it's in or made
> > for. There are limited slip, Torsen and locking differentials made for the
> > Dana 60. If you want to know what type of unit is in the rear you'll have
> > to actually look at it.
> > >>
> > >> And this is not a sarcastic response, either :)
> > >>
> > >> I'd highly recommend an ARB airlocker for this rear.  direct bolt in,
> > >> easy to control with a pushbutton, and totally open when needed.
> > >>
> > >> --
> > >>
> > >> Frederic Breitwieser
> > >> Bridgeport CT 06606
> > >>
> > >> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> > >> 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy
> > >> 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos
> > >> 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > Thanks,
> >         Peter Hipson (founder, NEHOG)
> >         1995 White NA Hummer Wagon
> 
> 

--
Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun  3 14:31:26 1999
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Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 14:29:25 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "Peter D. Hipson" <mail@darkstar.mv.com>
Subject: Re: Types of differentials/Traction aiding devices
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Right, I was not clear... <g> In drag racing, you go straight, which works.
ARB's won't like being turned frequently while locked up. 

At 11:57 AM 6/3/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Thanks for the clarification Peter,
>
>However, when yo mention that 'ARB's can only be used on surfaces with a
>low coefficient of friction. That is, off road, or drag racing.'
>
>Drag racing MOSTLY relies on GETTING TRACTION, whereas a HIGH
>coefficient of friction (Good to GREAT) i.e. traction, is one of the
>primary goals...
>
>I'm confused about your post...
>
>Any help?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Todd....
>
>
>Peter D. Hipson wrote:
>> 
>> ARB's can only be used on surfaces with a low coefficient of friction. That
>> is, off road, or drag racing. In either of these areas, who cares about
>> mileage! Strong: well, we beat the hell out of them on trails, and they
>> don't break very often. Most common problem is air leaks, etc.
>> 
>> At 04:30 PM 6/2/99 -0700, you wrote:
>> >Can ya do a W.O.T. launch with the button OFF, then turn it on in the
>> >middle of the launch, under FULL TORQUE?
>> >
>> >Just how strong is this unit?
>> >
>> >AND, would a car with one of these air posi's get better gas mileag
