From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul  1 06:10:25 1999
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Subject: [admin] List services (automated monthly post)

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul  1 11:18:47 1999
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From: David Sagers <dls2867@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: SBC 882 Heads info
Date: Thu, 01 Jul 1999 08:18:14 PDT
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I was looking thru some books last night but can’t find info on the Chevy 
small block 882 casting heads.  I’m looking for the stated chamber and port 
volume sizes.  Anyone have this info?  Are these considered a production 
performance head?


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul  1 16:41:22 1999
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Jason Leone wrote:
> Yes, that's the 2 Bar unit (the 886- casting# tells you that). Price is usually
> about $50-$55 retail. I don't know what make or model they came on,
> [...]
> If anybody knows what make, model, and year the GM 2 Bar
> MAP sensor came from...please share...I'd like to know just for the record.

Try an 87-90 Sunbird with the turbo 2.0 L4 ("M") engine.

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul  1 20:14:50 1999
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Subject: Trouble code info needed
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I'm in need of a trouble tree for code 61.  The vehicle is a 93
Camaro, 3.4l engine.  If it's possible, a scan of the service manual
pages would be great...  Thanks,
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul  1 22:03:18 1999
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Subject: AIC
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Hi!
	This is my first post.  I was looking through the
archives about additional injector controllers, since I was curious about
building one for my 1991 MR2 Turbo.  I was thinking about using a couple
LM1949 chips from National Semiconductor.  These neato little guys take
a duty cycle signal and drive an injector (using a trans ofcoarse).  What
do anyone
thinking about using a voltage to frequency converter to convert the boost
signal from a pressure sensor to a freq. that the LM1949 could use.  As boost
increases the duty cycle would increase and hence more fuel squirted.
Thughts?  Is this how a V-F converter works?
Thanks!
						JoeO


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul  1 22:43:53 1999
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I have a problem with it jumping out of gear on take off. I have unit
striped down and need parts.  Do you know who stocks them in the Columbus
or Dayton area.  Any tips on assembly.

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul  2 02:58:38 1999
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Subject: Not efi - VisionICE BDM for Coldfire
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Please email me of list if anyone has any experience with the VisionICE BDM for
the Motorola Coldfire.  Could use an experienced hand getting it running.

Dan  dzorde@erggroup.com



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul  2 07:29:07 1999
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Hi

The V/F converter does not usually change the pulswidth so the duyt cycle is normally
50 % , you probobly have to involve PWM (Pulse Width Modulator)
instead of an V/F..

/ Janne

>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 01 Jul 1999 22:02:21 -0400
> From: Joseph Franz Obernberger <joelori@earthlink.net>
> Subject: AIC
>
> Hi!
>         This is my first post.  I was looking through the
> archives about additional injector controllers, since I was curious about
> building one for my 1991 MR2 Turbo.  I was thinking about using a couple
> LM1949 chips from National Semiconductor.  These neato little guys take
> a duty cycle signal and drive an injector (using a trans ofcoarse).  What
> do anyone
> thinking about using a voltage to frequency converter to convert the boost
> signal from a pressure sensor to a freq. that the LM1949 could use.  As boost
> increases the duty cycle would increase and hence more fuel squirted.
> Thughts?  Is this how a V-F converter works?
> Thanks!
>                                                 JoeO
>
> ------------------------------



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul  2 09:50:55 1999
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Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 07:53:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: small fuel injector?
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA
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 I can run two staged injectors per cylinder with my ECU.  For a big
block application, I'd like to run the smallest possible injectors as
the primaries, to get the best atomization of fuel possible.  The
smallest commonly available injectors I have found are 14 lb/hr, used on
most Ford fours and some V6s.  Are there any smaller injectors out
there?

==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?
=================================== http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm
                                                                   

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul  2 15:01:16 1999
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Some of the buick guys set the check engine light to function as a shift
light through the ECM. Quad Air is one of the companies that burn chips
this way. Their address can be found at www.gnttype.org on the vendor
page. I'm sure they won't give you the code to do it, but at least you
know it has been done.
greg

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul  2 18:20:54 1999
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I don't think small injectors atomize any better than large injectors but
they are easier to tune at idle and very low speeds.  Just get some common
injectors that are small enough.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
>
>  I can run two staged injectors per cylinder with my ECU.  For a big
> block application, I'd like to run the smallest possible injectors as
> the primaries, to get the best atomization of fuel possible.  The
> smallest commonly available injectors I have found are 14 lb/hr, used on
> most Ford fours and some V6s.  Are there any smaller injectors out
> there?
>
> ==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul  2 21:54:08 1999
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Hi all, got a quick question. I think the DFI units have separate p/n's for
different ignition types... i.e. HEI, optispark, DIS etc.

Is this correct? If so what's the difference between the part numbers
internally? Can a unit made for the Buick DIS be modified for use with an
HEI or MSD ignition?

Charles Brook



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jul  3 11:15:23 1999
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Date: Sat, 03 Jul 1999 11:08:05 -0700
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Scott, It looks like this one fell off the edge of the earth, could
you re-upload it please?

Thanks, BobR.

>I have uploaded the file ARUT9058.bin to the incoming directory.
>
>It is off of a 730 ecm in a 91 Pontiac Sunbird.  3.1V6 engine, 3-speed auto,
>2.53 axle ratio.  Has A/C and power everything.
>
>Scott


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jul  3 12:16:06 1999
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Date: Sat, 03 Jul 1999 12:16:02 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Other uses for the C.E Lamp
In-Reply-To: <199907030900.FAA00701@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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At 05:00 AM 7/3/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>Some of the buick guys set the check engine light to function as a shift 
>light through the ECM. Quad Air is one of the companies that burn chips 
>this way. Their address can be found at www.gnttype.org on the vendor 
>page. I'm sure they won't give you the code to do it, but at least you 
>know it has been done. 

I was on the GN List until about a month ago when I got rid of my last buick...
Never heard this mentioned and I was very active there.
There would be no reason to have a shift light on the buicks, as they are
Automatic Transmission cars... of the few that the owners have converted to
manuals, they always went slower and got converted back to automatics.
Red makes a lot of GOOD chips for the buicks, and hokey flashey frills isn't
one of his products... a shift light for an automatic would probably make Red
laugh!
===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
   Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jul  3 18:24:47 1999
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Date: Sat, 03 Jul 1999 17:24:15 -0500
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DIY_EFI Digest wrote:

> Date: Sat, 03 Jul 1999 12:16:02 -0400
> From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
> Subject: Re: Other uses for the C.E Lamp
> 
> At 05:00 AM 7/3/99 -0400, you wrote:
> >
> >Some of the buick guys set the check engine light to function as a shift
> >light through the ECM. Quad Air is one of the companies that burn chips
> >this way. Their address can be found at www.gnttype.org on the vendor
> >page. I'm sure they won't give you the code to do it, but at least you
> >know it has been done.
> 
> I was on the GN List until about a month ago when I got rid of my last buick...
> Never heard this mentioned and I was very active there.
> There would be no reason to have a shift light on the buicks, as they are
> Automatic Transmission cars... of the few that the owners have converted to
> manuals, they always went slower and got converted back to automatics.
> Red makes a lot of GOOD chips for the buicks, and hokey flashey frills isn't
> one of his products... a shift light for an automatic would probably make Red
> laugh!

 Dave,
 Red does sell a chip that turns on the SES light at whatever RPM you
want. It is used for a manual 2-3 shift with the torque converter
locked, since letting it shift by it's self with the converter locked up
gives sort of a double shift, and slows the car down. He's been offering
this option for over a year. 
 I wish I had a copy of it to look at the code patch he used to do it.
Prolly a easy code patch for most of ya'll..
 BTW, Red was one of the guest speakers at the Turbo Regal tech session
at the Nats last week. It was a blast to listen to Red ramble on about
anything and everything about making a Turbo Buick fast.

 BTW.. not really EFI related, but a bit from the pits..  I picked up a
Precision Vigilante 9.5" <lockup> -0- pump stall torque converter at the
nats.. ($1150.00 list) Just slapped my tranny back in the car today
after my 400 run freshening. <grin> Can't wait to hit the drag strip
next friday night.. Kinda hard to tell, but seat-o-the-pants dyno checks
A-ok! It just dusted a 300ZX with ease on the street with the air on, if
that's any indication. It feels good, fo sure.

 Take care.

***********************************************************************
Dan Smith      84 Regal   12.13@112     GSCA# 1459
St.Charles, Missouri 
mailto:dcsmith@bytes.net               
http://www.tetranet.net/users/morepoweral
***********************************************************************

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jul  4 02:52:24 1999
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Subject: Re: Other uses for the C.E Lamp
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At 05:00 AM 7/3/99 -0400, Greg wrote:
>
>Some of the buick guys set the check engine light to function as a shift 
>light through the ECM. Quad Air is one of the companies that burn chips 
>this way. Their address can be found at www.gnttype.org on the vendor 
>page. I'm sure they won't give you the code to do it, but at least you 
>know it has been done. 
 Dave said:

I was on the GN List until about a month ago when I got rid of my last
buick...
Never heard this mentioned and I was very active there.
There would be no reason to have a shift light on the buicks, as they
are
Automatic Transmission cars... of the few that the owners have converted
to
manuals, they always went slower and got converted back to automatics.
Red makes a lot of GOOD chips for the buicks, and hokey flashey frills
isn't
one of his products... a shift light for an automatic would probably
make Red
laugh!

Greg replies:
Not so Dave, sorry. A quick search of the archives turned this up on the
subject. Didn't go through the whole archives to see what else turns up.
Of course the guy may be lying or confused, but I remember the post
because I thought it was a neat idea at the time. remember us Buick guys
are prone to doing all sorts of cool things with the stock ECMs. No
reason to have a shift light in an auto car? Come on. All the really
fast cars are automatics, you telling me they don't use shift lights or
tachs when they race?
greg
>From the GN archives-----------------------------------
From: Mike Immel
Subject: Re: Shift Light - Electronic Question ...
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 17:42:09 -0600

Mark,

I have a chip from Red Armstrong that turns on my check engine light @
5500
rpm in each gear. Sort-of an inexpensive shift lite. Works great. Give
him a call!

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jul  4 05:21:02 1999
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From: "Geoff Richards" <geoffsue@one.net.au>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: O2 Sensor
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 1999 17:33:25 +1000
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Is it possible to use an LCD display instead of the LED's 
for the output reading of the 10 led O2 sensor?
TIA
Geoff


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jul  4 05:35:27 1999
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From: "Dave (G6ZKC)" <dave@palms.screaming.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: A/F by volume
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 1999 10:35:05 +0100
Organization: Amateur Radio
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BEC608.E13C0E40
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Hi All,
        I'm I right in thinking that A/F by volume is something 10,000:1 =
? i.e 10,000 cc air to 1 of gas?


                                                    Thanks Dave(G6ZKC)

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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hi All,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I'm I right in =
thinking=20
that A/F by volume is something 10,000:1 ? i.e 10,000 cc air to 1 of=20
gas?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Thanks=20
Dave(G6ZKC)</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BEC608.E13C0E40--


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jul  4 14:09:09 1999
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        "DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu" <DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Other uses for the C.E Lamp
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At 01:55 AM 7/4/99 -0500, greg kring wrote:
>Greg replies:
>Not so Dave, sorry. A quick search of the archives turned this up on the
>subject. Didn't go through the whole archives to see what else turns up.
>Of course the guy may be lying or confused, but I remember the post
>because I thought it was a neat idea at the time. remember us Buick guys
>are prone to doing all sorts of cool things with the stock ECMs. No
>reason to have a shift light in an auto car? Come on. All the really
>fast cars are automatics, you telling me they don't use shift lights or
>tachs when they race?

The only problem I see with a shift light in the GN is the TH200-4R trans
is slow to respond to the manual shifter...  I had a $2500.00 Mike Kurtz
top-of the line racing trans in mine, and in 2, D or OD it would shift by
itself between 5000 and 5100... If I held it in low and popped it in to 2nd
at 5000, it would wait until almost 5600 before it shifted.  Waiting till
5500 and it would hit the rev limiter and bounce off it once or twice
before it shifted.  Mike said the TH200-4R was a great trans, but the
hydraulics were a bit slow even after the mods.
Now a really built GN with a TH400 or a powerglide, it would probably be a
great item, but by the time anyone went to a 'glide or TH400 they were
probably at the power level that the stock ECM was long gone
===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
     Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA   T.A.P.R. Member #7068
   Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
===========================================================

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jul  4 14:25:52 1999
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From: "Bob Marrs" <bmarrs@abpac.com>
To: <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: EEC-IV MAF Conversion Questions
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 1999 11:12:40 -0700
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Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

Hi Folks,

I'm a newby to the list and was hoping you could please help me with (quite)
a few questions.

Background: I've completed a SD to MAF conversion on a 1986 Ford 2.9L EEC-IV
truck. Included with the swap was a MAF meter from a 5/0L Mustang (55mm vs
the stock 45mm), and 19lb injectors (vs. the 14lb stock, both high
impedance). Now I'm trying to fine tune the air/fuel mixture and solve some
occasional pining (probably sounds familiar to all of you). Here are my
questions (sorry if they are so basic) -

1. Does the EEC-IV system learn in WOT -- that is learn enough to adjust
optimal air/fuel ratios?
2. If you adjust fuel pressure to optimize part throttle, will it adapt
around it? If yes, could you adjust fuel pressure to optimize WOT only, and
then let the computer optimize for the closed loop conditions?
3. For the larger MAF Meter and fuel injectors, can an aftermaket chip (on
the diagnostic port) really tell the computer these have changed and correct
the tables accurately throughout the full range?
4. MAF Calibration: Does changing the output voltage really work fro street
cars? It seems to me that if you just change MAF meter to a larger one, and
optimize the output voltage for idle (by adjuster or new resistance) to
0.8v, that this new MAF meter still may not tell the computer the right
airflow info at high flow rates (due to different slope or characteristic
curves of different sized MAF meters).
5. Why does Ford have two different calibration codes for the same part
number MAF meter (used in two different applications)?
6. How do you correlate O2 readings to air/fuel values?
7. How do you re-adjust the advance curves (I want more at WOT and less at
part throttle acceleration). How do you know how much?
8. How hard is it for the chip programmers to get all this right? (assuming
I give them detailed info)
9. What questions should I ask a chip reprogrammer about what he has done?

Many thanks for your help!
Bob Marrs


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jul  4 18:30:33 1999
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From: Orin Eman <orin@WOLFENET.com>
Subject: Digest mode
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I'm getting a few subscribe requests to diy_efi for addresses
that have been moved over to the digest.

Please don't do this.  When I approve the request, it just comes
back with a message that the address is already subscribed.

diy_efi and diy_efi-digest are equivalent as far as (un)subscribe
is concerned.

Orin, list admin.


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jul  4 19:21:08 1999
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From: "C. Brooks" <cbrooks1@tqci.net>
To: "DIY_EFI Mailing List" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Aftermarket EFI comparisons
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 1999 19:18:52 -0400
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The May 1999 issue of "GM High-Tech performance" has a comparison of the
DFI, Haltech, Speed-Pro(Felpro), Motec, Holley, and Electromotive EFI
systems as well as AS&M's "CarPROM".

If I find the motivation, I'll try to scan it tomorrow and post it to the
FTP site.

Charles Brooks


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jul  5 00:57:16 1999
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From: "Wallace A. Gustafson" <cobrag@uswest.net>
To: "DIY_EFI Mailing List" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Small Gasoline Engine Ful Injection
Date: Sun, 4 Jul 1999 22:03:23 -0700
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BEC669.08AEED20
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Can anyone forward any information on Small Gas Engine Fuel Injection to =
me.

Thank You In Advance.


------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BEC669.08AEED20
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Can anyone forward any information on =
Small Gas=20
Engine Fuel Injection to me.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thank You In Advance.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BEC669.08AEED20--


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jul  5 03:47:06 1999
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Hi all,
	Where can I purchase some 16 pin DLC Plugs. It looks like I will be
using pins 4,5,6,9 and 16. I know that "Snap On" sell them for their own
scanners but I want just the plugs.

Thanks in Advance Richard


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jul  5 07:05:44 1999
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
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PLEASE !
Im waiting like a child before christmas!!!!
  
Espen
 
> The May 1999 issue of "GM High-Tech performance" has a comparison of the
> DFI, Haltech, Speed-Pro(Felpro), Motec, Holley, and Electromotive EFI
> systems as well as AS&M's "CarPROM".
> 
> If I find the motivation, I'll try to scan it tomorrow and post it to the
> FTP site.
> 
> Charles Brooks


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jul  5 09:45:08 1999
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Subject: Re: 16 PIN DLC PLUG
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> Hi all,
> 	Where can I purchase some 16 pin DLC Plugs. It looks like I will be
> using pins 4,5,6,9 and 16. I know that "Snap On" sell them for their own
> scanners but I want just the plugs.
> 
> Thanks in Advance Richard
> 
Check with a local connector distributor, the Delphi-Packard GM
# is 12110252. I can send you one down under for $25 with pins.   
Pins 4 and 5 or ground  16 is power   6 and 9 or manufacture pins.
Also check Wayne McDonald in archives.
What car is this? 
Alex
http://www.obd-2.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jul  5 10:46:09 1999
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From: "C. Brooks" <cbrooks1@tqci.net>
To: "DIY_EFI Mailing List" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: EFI comparisons
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 1999 10:43:52 -0400
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My scanner here at home wasn't up to the task. I'll take the article to work
and scan the feature comparison table on the scanner there.

Charles Brooks


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul  6 08:22:07 1999
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From: "Alfieri, Maurizio" <MAlfie@landi.it>
To: "DIY efi332 (Posta elettronica)" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: req: lambda probe model
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 1999 14:23:45 +0200 
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Is there someone who knows an equivalent electric circuit for a lambda
probe? (i mean the switch characteristic probes, the ones installed on
serie veichles to feedback injection, not the linear ones)
Or some parametric model?
 
How can they read rich exhaust if they are sensitive to O2? 
Where does this residual O2 come from?
 
Thank you
Maurizio

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul  6 10:39:06 1999
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From: David Sagers <dls2867@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: This board is GREAT!!     Thanks for the help
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 1999 07:38:30 PDT
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Last week I needed specs on some GM SBC heads and received several messages 
from people that had all the info. One guy even scanned and mailed an 
article discussing the questions I had.

Thanks again to all who responded, this board is GREAT!!



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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul  6 10:55:38 1999
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Subject: 12 pin dlc connectors
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Hi everyone,
   Seeing the request for the 16 pin DLC connector, reminded me that I need a 12
pin ALDL connector.  Does anyone have the Delphi-Packard number for this?  Does 
anyone know the pinout for this connector??

Thanks,
Dave Hempstead


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul  6 10:59:37 1999
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Yes, I would also really like to see this article too.  I just found the web 
site for GM high tech performance at:  
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/contact.html
and subscribed to the magazine.


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul  6 10:59:41 1999
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From: David Sagers <dls2867@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Injector Sizes
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 1999 07:35:50 PDT
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I spent a some time looking thru the archives and can't locate the info I 
need.  Some time ago several posts discussed different injector sizes for 
the GM TBI system, for different years and engines.  If anyone has this info 
I could sure use it.




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Date: Tue, 6 Jul 1999 12:36:18 EDT
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #398
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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hi all,

Does anyone out there have an internal diagram of the Lucas 4CU EMS as used 
on the Range Rover EFi?

I'd be grateful of any help ,thanks

Geoff

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul  6 16:19:04 1999
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Subject: EFI project
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Thank you for the ideas.  Now I have another question, should I use 
a system from a VW that has lambda control or not?  If so, could 
someone give me some schematics to go by for wiring.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul  6 17:37:59 1999
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From: "C. Brooks" <cbrooks1@tqci.net>
To: "DIY_EFI Mailing List" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: EFI comparison
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 1999 17:35:37 -0400
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I scanned in the table, and I still need to straighten out the columns and
some of the garbled portions. As soon as I'm done I'll post it to the FTP
site. I didn't scan the rest of the article. It was a 10 page article and
read more like an advertisement for all parties involved. I think the table
is a more neutral comparison.

Charles Brooks


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul  6 20:04:41 1999
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Date:  6 Jul 99 17:04:38 PDT
From: walter luikey <wally6800@netscape.net>
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Fuel Flow Bench
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I just found this group last week.
I am interested in building the Fuel Flow Bench listed under completed
projects.

I would like to communicate with anyone who has built one.

Thanks in advance.

Wally
Wally6800@Netscape.net

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul  6 20:49:31 1999
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From: "Beth Hempstead" <dave_hempstead@hp.com>
To: "gmecm" <gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        "diy_efi" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
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Subject: HELP, I erased the flash in my PCM
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 1999 20:53:16 -0700
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BEC7F1.92439160
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Please help me!!!

I wrote alot of complex code (with at least 1 bug in it) which =
successfully erased the flash in my '94 GM PCM, but did not successfully =
re-program it with new bits.  Therefore, I have a PCM which is dead. =20

I realize that I can unsolder the flash, reprogram them, and solder (or =
socket) them back in the PCM. =20

Is there any easier way to get the PCM back to listening to the ALDL???? =
 I can easily open it up. =20

What do you experts do when they try to reflash a PCM, and you get a =
glitch, power failure, or some other error code.  I doubt that you throw =
it away.  How do you recover the PCM???


Any help will be GREATLY appreciated
Dave (boy do I feel stupid) Hempstead
(formerly) '94 Caprice PCM 16188051

------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BEC7F1.92439160
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Please help me!!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I wrote alot of complex code (with =
at least 1=20
bug in it) which successfully erased the flash in my '94 GM PCM, but did =
not=20
successfully re-program it with new bits.&nbsp; Therefore, I have a PCM =
which is=20
dead.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I realize that I can unsolder the =
flash,=20
reprogram them, and solder (or socket) them back in the PCM.&nbsp; =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Is there any easier way to get the PCM back to =
listening to=20
the ALDL????&nbsp; I can easily open it up.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>What do you experts do when they try to reflash a =
PCM, and you=20
get a glitch, power failure, or some other error code.&nbsp; I doubt =
that you=20
throw it away.&nbsp; How do you recover the PCM???</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Any help will be GREATLY appreciated</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Dave (boy do I feel stupid) Hempstead</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>(formerly) '94 Caprice PCM =
16188051</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BEC7F1.92439160--


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul  6 21:31:26 1999
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: BMW 523i -96mod.stored info 
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 02:32:40 +0200
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Hi I have a friend who is looking to buy a BMW 523i    96mod.
He is very conserned about if the odometer is correct this car has been
imported from Germany where lots of km can be done in short time...
Is it somebody who knows if this ecm or abs brain is storing some
interesting 
figures for a buyer? And how to get them?
Thanks in advance
Espen Hilde

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul  7 09:48:31 1999
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From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: HELP, I erased the flash in my PCM
References: <199907070900.FAA16648@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Dave Hempstead wrote:

> What do you experts do when they try to reflash a PCM, and you get a =
> glitch, power failure, or some other error code.  I doubt that you throw =
> it away.  How do you recover the PCM???

I'm not sure who you're thinking of when you say expert, but at the
dealership level we would have to order a replacement pcm.  GM loves
to warn against letting the pcm voltage drop while programming one. 
For a tech, you're part would be declared DOA.
Shannen  

> 
> Any help will be GREATLY appreciated
> Dave (boy do I feel stupid) Hempstead
> (formerly) '94 Caprice PCM 16188051
> 
> - ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BEC7F1.92439160
> Content-Type: text/html;
>         charset="iso-8859-1"
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>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul  7 15:10:12 1999
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Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 15:09:33 EDT
Subject: 1226870 ecm questions
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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I am trying to link my laptop to the ecm datastream. I have learned that it 
is 160bps and that a 10k resistor between the A and B terminals will put the 
ecm into diagnostics mode.

I would like to write a program that I would share with everyone to analyze 
oem systems in the field.

If anyone can answer the following questions, I would greatly appreciate it:

1. What are the communications parameters, i.e. data bits, stop bits, parity, 
etc.

2. Does anyone know how to decode the data into useful information?

3. 160 bps is not a com port option on the menu. Can I just type it in and it 
work?

4. Is there a handshake that must occur when initializing communication, or 
do I just plug it in and start receiving?

5. I've seen Diacom advertised, but has anyone on the list has written 
anything that might be similar?

Mike

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul  7 15:21:19 1999
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From: "C. Brooks" <cbrooks1@tqci.net>
To: "DIY_EFI Mailing List" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Thunder Bay EFI
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 15:18:54 -0400
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Has anyone ever heard of a company called "Thunder Bay"? Supposedly they
deal in EFI hardware. I was given the name in passing by someone I met.

Charles Brooks


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul  7 16:00:26 1999
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Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 15:58:58 EDT
Subject: Hummer Parts (sorry, off subject)
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In a message dated 7/7/99 12:56:13 PM Pacific Daylight Time, EFISYSTEMS 
writes:

<< Subj:	Hummer Parts (sorry, off subject)
 Date:	7/7/99 12:56:13 PM Pacific Daylight Time
 From:	EFISYSTEMS
 To:	diy_efi@332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 CC:	gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 
 Hi People,
        I am trying to find a cross reference for part numbers that I 
have.....these are for army issue 89-90 hummers with the 6.2 diesel 
engine......I noticed some of the people on this list have hummers and would 
appreciate any response I get.....all the part numbers I have are from 
Mexico...ex  5740046......5740072....and approx 100 more...all descriptions I 
have are in spanish and aren't of much use.....anyone????
 Thanks again,
 -Carl Summers >>


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Return-path: EFISYSTEMS@aol.com
From: EFISYSTEMS@aol.com
Full-name: EFISYSTEMS
Message-ID: <272d25ee.24b50add@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 15:56:13 EDT
Subject: Hummer Parts (sorry, off subject)
To: diy_efi@332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Hi People,
       I am trying to find a cross reference for part numbers that I 
have.....these are for army issue 89-90 hummers with the 6.2 diesel 
engine......I noticed some of the people on this list have hummers and would 
appreciate any response I get.....all the part numbers I have are from 
Mexico...ex  5740046......5740072....and approx 100 more...all descriptions I 
have are in spanish and aren't of much use.....anyone????
Thanks again,
-Carl Summers

--part1_272d25ee.24b50b82_boundary--

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul  7 16:41:10 1999
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From: "C. Brooks" <cbrooks1@tqci.net>
To: "DIY_EFI Mailing List" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: EFI system comparison
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 16:38:42 -0400
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OK, I just uploaded the comparison to the incoming directory. The file name
is EFICOMP.rtf

Sorry it took so long.

Charles Brooks


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul  7 19:04:44 1999
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To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <199907071900.PAA24707@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: HELP, I erased the flash in my PCM
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 18:04:56 -0500
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> Dave Hempstead wrote:
>
> > What do you experts do when they try to reflash a PCM, and you get a =
> > glitch, power failure, or some other error code.  I doubt that you throw
=
> > it away.  How do you recover the PCM???
>
> I'm not sure who you're thinking of when you say expert, but at the
> dealership level we would have to order a replacement pcm.  GM loves
> to warn against letting the pcm voltage drop while programming one.
> For a tech, you're part would be declared DOA.
> Shannen

You see how the computer kinda has a wedge shape to it?  Well, we used to
call PCM's such as yours "wheel chocks" or "door stops".  Don't mean to make
fun of your unfortunate situation, but what can I say...  better get out
your [de]soldering station.  BTW-  This problem cost a company I used to
work for a LOT of money until some problems were resolved... if that makes
you feel any better.

-Brock



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul  8 13:59:11 1999
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Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 10:59:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mark Wilcutts <markw@vehicle.me.berkeley.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc: "Dave (G6ZKC)" <dave@palms.screaming.net>
Subject: Re: A/F by volume
In-Reply-To: <199907041900.PAA14631@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Totally depends on what temperature and pressure you are looking at. For
reference, density of air is 1.20 kg/m^3 at 20 deg.C and atmospheric
pressure. Stoichiometric mixture is 14.2-15.2 kg air per kg fuel,
depending on fuel composition. Density of gasoline is between 732 and 752
kg/m^3, depending on season and grade, at 60 deg. F. You can do the math
from there...

On Sun, 4 Jul 1999, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:

> From: "Dave (G6ZKC)" <dave@palms.screaming.net>
> 
> Hi All,
>         I'm I right in thinking that A/F by volume is something 10,000:1 =
> ? i.e 10,000 cc air to 1 of gas?


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul  8 14:07:48 1999
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Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 11:07:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mark Wilcutts <markw@vehicle.me.berkeley.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc: "Alfieri, Maurizio" <MAlfie@landi.it>
Subject: Re: req: lambda probe model
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It's an electrochemical cell that depends on the concentration of oxygen
on either side of the ceramic electrolyte. Redox reactions on the platinum
surfaces of the probe influence the voltage to a great degree as well.
Look back in the archives for May, there was some good discussion of this.

On Tue, 6 Jul 1999, "Alfieri, Maurizio" <MAlfie@landi.it> wrote:

> Is there someone who knows an equivalent electric circuit for a lambda
> probe? (i mean the switch characteristic probes, the ones installed on
> serie veichles to feedback injection, not the linear ones)
> Or some parametric model?
>  
> How can they read rich exhaust if they are sensitive to O2? 
> Where does this residual O2 come from?


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul  8 14:25:03 1999
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Date: Wed, 07 Jul 1999 14:00:09 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Donald Whisnant <dewhisna@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: M6811DIS Disassembler
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Hi DIY'ers...

Back a couple of years ago, I offered free copies of my 68HC11
code-seeking disassembler (since GM uses Motorola processors almost
exclusively) and have had many people request a copy...  At that time,
I had no instruction manual written...  Recently, I've finished the
manual and have posted a new ZIP of the disassembler on my website for
all to download, along with some Motorola documents...  Soon I'll also
have Alan Baldwin's AS6811 assembler (the assembler my disassembler was
targetted for) online as well...

I am also working on writing several new versions of the disassembler
to overcome the limitations of this DOS 16-bit version...  Those will
be posted when they become available...  You can read about those
versions on my site...

To download the disassembler goto:

http://home.midsouth.rr.com/dewtronics

(all lowercase)  Once there, goto the downloads page...  There will
be a link for downloading the disassembler...  The link will take
you directly to my machine where I have the file (we have dynamic IP's
so you must go through this front-end)...  Because of the IP's, you
can bookmark the front-end page on midsouth.rr.com, but don't bookmark
anything on my machine directly, as they will be invalidated when our
IP's change... ...  If you have problems contacting the machine, try
later -- RoadRunner cable modems have problems quite often (usually a
major crash once every 2-3 weeks!)...

I also ask that you fill out the online form to "register" -- I enjoy
tracking where my programs go -- so far this one is in over 12 different
countries! ...  You don't have to register if you don't want to, but
I would prefer it and any information submitted will be kept
completely confidential...  You can also "vote" for versions that don't
exist yet to help determine which versions should have top priority...

While there, feel free to browse the rest of the site -- though much
of the site is still under heavy construction and is very incomplete...

Enjoy...
Donald Whisnant
dewhisna@ix.netcom.com



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul  8 19:53:19 1999
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Date: Thu, 08 Jul 1999 16:52:41 -0800
From: Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
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Mike <Mikepoore@aol.com> wrote:
> I am trying to link my laptop to the ecm datastream. I have learned that it 
> is 160bps and that a 10k resistor between the A and B terminals will put the 
> ecm into diagnostics mode.

Check the archives.  Your question is a Frequently Asked Question.

> 1. What are the communications parameters, i.e. data bits, stop bits, parity, 
> etc.
> 
> 3. 160 bps is not a com port option on the menu. Can I just type it in and it 
> work?

Variable pulse width / duty cycle bit encoding, one start bit (sort of),
8 data bits, no stop bits, no parity.  Your serial port is not capable
of these settings.

If you look through the archives, I suggested a method that might allow
your standard serial port UART to receive ALDL data.  It involves
setting the data rate to something in the 2000 baud to 3000 baud range. 
You will receive one _byte_ for each ALDL _bit_.  You then get to
extract the data stream from these bytes via software.

> If anyone can answer the following questions, I would greatly appreciate it:

Check this out:
  http://www.isthq.com/~dan/aldl.htm

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul  8 20:16:36 1999
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From: "Stegbauer, Michael" <mike.stegbauer@compaq.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: C.E. as shift light
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 17:16:09 -0700 
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Sorry for the late entry into this thread...

There is a company called Technomotive that reprograms Diamond Star 
ECUs.  One of the functions is using the C.E. as a shift light.

They can also use the relatively useless stock boost guage to display
O2 voltage, Injector Duty Cycle, Advance, etc.  Stage 3 includes a
stutter box for launching.

Not much use if you don't own a Talon, Eclipse of Laser, but it 
still may hold some interest for y'all:  http://www.tmo.com

Cheers,
Mike

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul  9 10:21:02 1999
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From: "Steve" <maxboost@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #400
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 1999 07:11:11 -0700
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> Please help me!!!
>
> I wrote alot of complex code (with at least 1 bug in it) which =
> successfully erased the flash in my '94 GM PCM, but did not successfully =
> re-program it with new bits.  Therefore, I have a PCM which is dead. =20
>
> I realize that I can unsolder the flash, reprogram them, and solder (or =
> socket) them back in the PCM. =20
>
> Is there any easier way to get the PCM back to listening to the ALDL???? =
>  I can easily open it up. =20
>
> What do you experts do when they try to reflash a PCM, and you get a =
> glitch, power failure, or some other error code.  I doubt that you throw =
> it away.  How do you recover the PCM???
>
>
I was recently trained on the Nissan flash ECM's and was told that if you
screw up the flash process, the ECM is dead.  Reason being that if the first
bit is lost, there is no way for the PC to find the start again.  That's why
it won't re-flash.  My friend who does this in the aftermarket said the same
thing as you about un-soldering the flash and re-flash it off the board.

In regards to what Nissan does if there is a glitch, they throw the ECM away
whole!  No joke, I asked why and they said it wasn't cost effective to try
to repair them.

Steve


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul  9 19:49:58 1999
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From: "C. Brooks" <cbrooks1@tqci.net>
To: "DIY_EFI Mailing List" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: pieces parts
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 1999 19:47:25 -0400
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I ordered several feet of fuel rail from Arizona Speed & Marine (They have
it for $6/foot) now I'm looking for aluminum bar stock to make injector
bosses from. I've looked around a little on the net and I found a couple
places that want a minimum order of 50 feet. (That's an awful lot of
injector bosses!)

Anybody have any sources willing to sell four feet of 1" aluminum bar stock?

Just as a little background, I'm converting a single plane manifold to EFI
use Ala, Fred B.  :)   I'm not sure what'll use for a throttle body just
yet. I'm thinking of modifying a junkyard throttlebody, or maybe buying a
Holley TB... Not sure just yet.

Charles Brooks


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul  9 20:06:10 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Interesting item on eBay web site item#128067788: 3 Bosch Fuel Injection Training Video Tapes
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I saw this item for sale at eBay, the world's largest personal trading community, and thought that you might be interested.

Title of item:	3 Bosch Fuel Injection Training Video Tapes
Seller:	wjc@epctech.com
Starts:	07/06/99, 20:36:43 PDT
Ends:	07/13/99, 20:36:43 PDT
Price:	Currently $17.50
To bid on the item, go to:	http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=128067788


Item Description:		
	


3 Bosch Fuel Injection Training Video Tapes









3 Bosch Fuel Injection Training
Video Tapes
Made by the Robert Bosch Corporation
These are not reproductions!



  
    L-Jetronic (EFI) Servicing
    
  
  
    K-Jetronic (CSI) System Check
    
  
  
    K-Jetronic Lamda Control
    
  







  
    I am a retired ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician and can vouch
    how valuable these video tapes are.  If you work on German vehicles you know how
    complicated their fuel injections are.  These tapes take the mystery out!
  




"Good Luck Bidding"

   Add $10 for Shipping Anywhere in the US 48
States.   
Sorry, No International Shipping
Certified Check or Money Order Only
Delivery Within 24 Hours Upon Payment

Email wjc@epctech.com
for any questions.



On 07/06/99 at 20:38:55 PDT, seller added the following information:
This ad has been viewed  times.Courtesy of Bay-town.com - Visit us for Ebay(tm) related services.

	Visit eBay, the world's largest Personal Trading Community at http://www.ebay.com

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul  9 20:41:17 1999
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From: "soren" <soren@rio.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #405
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 1999 17:39:12 -0700
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> I was recently trained on the Nissan flash ECM's and was told that if you
> screw up the flash process, the ECM is dead.  Reason being that if the
first
> bit is lost, there is no way for the PC to find the start again.  That's
why
> it won't re-flash.  My friend who does this in the aftermarket said the
same
> thing as you about un-soldering the flash and re-flash it off the board.
> 
> In regards to what Nissan does if there is a glitch, they throw the ECM
away
> whole! 

	
	At the local GM training center they have a "black box" that can be used
to reflash a PCM off the car, if it happens to lose communication with the
scan tool while flashing and goes into permanent dead mode.

Soren

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jul 10 09:19:12 1999
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From: "C. Brooks" <cbrooks1@tqci.net>
To: "DIY_EFI Mailing List" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Injector info
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 1999 09:16:38 -0400
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I just uploaded a file called injector.rtf to the FTP site. It's a list of
100+ injectors, with p/n's, applications, and flow rates.

I can't take credit for compiling the info though, a friend of mine traded
the info for a six-pack of Guiness not sure where he got it but it's been
pretty accurate for me . Wouldn't you know it, he wouldn't let me have the
info until I delivered the beer!

Anyhoo, thought I'd share the info.

Charles Brooks


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jul 10 10:17:17 1999
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You can buy short lengths of aluminum bar stock from a number of the big
industrial supply companies like McMaster. In the west there is a
company called Metal supermarkets. They have all kinds of stuff on the
shelf. even nice stainless steel hi grade tubing that is supposedly used
for fuel lines in gas turbines. Don't waste your money on expensive
alloys like 6061-t6 or 7075-t6 they are hard to weld.

Bill Edgeworth


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jul 10 21:19:55 1999
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Hi, All.
Ran into an aftermarket chip today, I'm curious as to the tuner.
Vehicle is a 91 Vette w/6spd, 727 ecm.
Various stickers on the memcal, normally blue cover is painted gold.
Happy face sticker over the eprom window.
Sticker on the side reads
400-218 BRAIN
91Y-6M-345
LEVEL II F 380

There are two stickers on the bottom which read
F380	90-1-W

Any ideas?
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jul 10 21:40:07 1999
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On Sat, 10 Jul 1999, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:

> Subject: aluminum bar stock
> 
> You can buy short lengths of aluminum bar stock from a number of the big
> industrial supply companies like McMaster. In the west there is a

my source for stuff like this is the local scrap yard. Try a few until you
find one that fits you...




From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jul 11 09:52:20 1999
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United Speedometer and Instrument
http://www.speedometershop.com/

Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jul 11 11:30:47 1999
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From: "C. Brooks" <cbrooks1@tqci.net>
To: "DIY_EFI Mailing List" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: injector info file
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Whoops, I was just informed that the file I thought I'd uploaded wasn't in
the "Incoming" directory. I fixed that, if anybody's interested it is NOW in
the correct (Incoming) directory.

I double checked this time too :}

Charles Brooks


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jul 11 16:48:24 1999
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Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 00:56:33 +0400
From: Fahad Khoory <fmkhoory@emirates.net.ae>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #409
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Hello,

I have a 99 Jeep Wrangler with an LT1 engine installed. Since I've done
that, the stock gauges have stopped working, since the LT1 ECU is
working now and  not the Jeep's. How can I wire the gauges? Can I wire
them directly to the sensors, bypassing the ecu? What wires should I
connect/wire?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Fahad

http://members.xoom.com/fmkhoory

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jul 11 21:31:05 1999
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Date: Sun, 11 Jul 1999 21:31:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: ken mayer <mayerk@idt.net>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Subject: aluminum bar stock
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> Date: Sat, 10 Jul 1999 07:13:01 -0700
> From: Bill Edgeworth <bedgew@ix.netcom.com>
> 
> You can buy short lengths of aluminum bar stock from a number of the big
> industrial supply companies like McMaster. In the west there is a
> company called Metal supermarkets. They have all kinds of stuff on the
> shelf. even nice stainless steel hi grade tubing that is supposedly used
> for fuel lines in gas turbines. Don't waste your money on expensive
> alloys like 6061-t6 or 7075-t6 they are hard to weld.

Try www.metalmart.com; it's relative expensive on small quantities, buy
you can buy only as much as you need.  Aircraft Spruce also has aluminum
(www.aircraft-spruce.com?)

Ken
:-)


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jul 12 00:32:01 1999
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Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 23:20:11 -0600
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Is that ECM still using the 6811F1?
If so, does anyone know if it can be put into bootstrap mode or if that exists on
the GM version of the chip?

Chad



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jul 12 19:19:16 1999
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From: "C. Brooks" <cbrooks1@tqci.net>
To: "DIY_EFI Mailing List" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Haltech
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 19:16:35 -0400
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Hi all, I was looking through the archives and ran across mention of a group
buy for Haltech E6GM's. Are any of the participants still on the list? If
you don't mind, I'd like to hear about the unit and what you think of it.
What was your application? Did it work out? How do you like the S/W? etc...

Charles Brooks


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jul 12 19:20:12 1999
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From: "Stegbauer, Michael" <mike.stegbauer@compaq.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #407
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 16:02:02 -0700
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> Subject: Injector info
>
> I just uploaded a file called injector.rtf to the FTP site. It's a list of
> 100+ injectors, with p/n's, applications, and flow rates.
>
> I can't take credit for compiling the info though, a friend of mine traded
> the info for a six-pack of Guiness not sure where he got it but it's been
> pretty accurate for me . Wouldn't you know it, he wouldn't let me have the
> info until I delivered the beer!

I'm afraid I have to doubt the reliability of this info...
Guiness comes in four-packs.       ;-)

Mike

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jul 12 20:51:33 1999
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To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 20:43:36 -0400
Subject: Saab 900T AMM (MAF) Swap
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I've been off this list for some time, but have jumped back on now that
I'm in the middle of a project that has some relevance.

Specifically, I'm trying to replace the stock Bosch VAF meter in a Merkur
XR4Ti (2.3L Ford Turbo) with the MAF (AMM in Saab verbiage) meter from a
'86 Saab 900T (16v 2.0L Turbo).  

My initial thoughts were that I might get lucky and have a plug-n-play
swap (with a little electrical work) since the intake consumptions are
fairly close.  Even though the Saab MAF has an adjustment screw (What
specifically does it adjust?), now I'm thinking this is still not likely
since I'm hearing the output curves are different between a MAF and VAF.

But before I get that far, I still need to define the 6 circuits on the
MAF, and their input/output ranges.  I have the schematic, but it only
tells me where everything goes.  The 4 circuits that route to the PCM (LH
Jetronic) are still a question mark.  If I had the whole running car
(rather than just the MAF), I'd figure it all out in 30 minutes.

Anyone care to comment or provide some insight?

Thanks,

Brad Anesi
'88 XR4Ti 5-speed
...and some other assorted German & Italian hardware  ...but no Swedes

___________________________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul 13 01:29:35 1999
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From: "Lowther, Peter" <Peter.Lowther@dofa.gov.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: ecu design
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 15:31:07 +1000
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What are the procedures for registering onto the diy_efi list?

I'm interested in locating a circuit design for building a DIY ecu.

Peter Lowther


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul 13 07:30:13 1999
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #411
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True, there were (2) four packs but two bottles mysteriously disapeared before I was able to deliver them ;)

Charles Brooks

Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 16:02:02 -0700 
From: "Stegbauer, Michael" <mike.stegbauer@compaq.com> 
Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #407 

>> pretty accurate for me . Wouldn't you know it, he wouldn't let me have the 
> info until I delivered the beer! 

> I'm afraid I have to doubt the reliability of this info... 
> Guiness comes in four-packs.       ;-) 

> Mike

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul 13 09:36:11 1999
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Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 09:35:33 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: David Cooley <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Saab 900T AMM (MAF) Swap
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At 05:00 AM 7/13/99 -0400, you wrote:

>I've been off this list for some time, but have jumped back on now that
>I'm in the middle of a project that has some relevance.
>
>Specifically, I'm trying to replace the stock Bosch VAF meter in a Merkur
>XR4Ti (2.3L Ford Turbo) with the MAF (AMM in Saab verbiage) meter from a
>'86 Saab 900T (16v 2.0L Turbo).

Brad,
If I'm correct, the MAF from the SAAB is a vane air meter (a spring loaded 
door that swings and turns a pot in relation to the volume of air coming 
in.).  The adjustment is the spring tension on the door.  This air meter 
isn't going to be any plug and play, as it will add a restriction to the 
intake, more so than the stock MAF, and may be more of a bear to get 
working than it's worth.
Why is it being swapped in the first place?
===========================================================
David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068
We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated!
===========================================================


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul 13 11:18:03 1999
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Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 11:17:15 EDT
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #411
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<< My initial thoughts were that I might get lucky and have a plug-n-play
 swap (with a little electrical work) since the intake consumptions are
 fairly close.  Even though the Saab MAF has an adjustment screw (What
 specifically does it adjust?), now I'm thinking this is still not likely
 since I'm hearing the output curves are different between a MAF and VAF. >>

The screw is for idle airflow signal output adjustment.  You attach a dwell 
meter to a connector that goes to the SAAB fuel controller and adjust for a 
50% dwell.

My 2¢

See ya,

Mike

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul 13 11:41:20 1999
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Message-ID: <001901becd46$b29274e0$e0646464@cybertech.ca>
From: "Kevin Yachimec" <keviny@cybertech.ca>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <199907130900.FAA06396@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Saab 900T AMM (MAF) Swap
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 09:43:18 -0600
Organization: Cybertech Automation Inc.
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I had given the idea some thought myself.  I have a bunch of 1.9 liter ecm's
from the Ford Escort.  It also use's a VAF meter to measure the air entering
the engine.  The problem in switching to a MAF meter is it measuring the
mass of the air (temperature and volume in one signal) where a VAF measures
volume and temperature ( and volume are separate signals) then ecm
calculates the mass of the air.  If someone wanted to use a MAF meter in
place of a VAF you would have to build a circuit that removes or separates
the air temperature part of the mass measurement output by the MAF meter.
This isn't that hard to do.  The problem is that a MAF meter's output is
almost linear where a VAF meter's output is logarithmic.  A VAF meter is
very good at measuring a small air flow.  The circuit that converts mass to
volume would have to take this into account.  I'm not an expert on op-amp
circuits so I run out of knowledge when I got to this part of the circuit.
I think you could create a series of curves with different slopes and create
a response curve that is very close to the logarithmic output of the VAF
meter.  Maybe someone else in the group could help out.

If you don't want to built your own circuit to do the conversion a company
by the name Split Second has a device that does the it for you.
http://www.splitsec.com/ A friend purchased one for his 2.2 Ford Probe but
had a hell of a time getting it to work smoothly.

Kevin Yachimec
Cybertech Automation Inc.
Edmonton Alberta Canada
keviny@cybertech.ca

> Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 20:43:36 -0400
> From: bjanesi@juno.com
> Subject: Saab 900T AMM (MAF) Swap
>
> I've been off this list for some time, but have jumped back on now that
> I'm in the middle of a project that has some relevance.
>
> Specifically, I'm trying to replace the stock Bosch VAF meter in a Merkur
> XR4Ti (2.3L Ford Turbo) with the MAF (AMM in Saab verbiage) meter from a
> '86 Saab 900T (16v 2.0L Turbo).
>
<SNIP>



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul 13 17:07:05 1999
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Noticed that in the last days the digest editions have become very small, 4 
to 6 messages per edition.  Has anyone else noticed this?  Used to be that 
there was a lot to read, now it's down to a couple of digests per day and 
only 4 to 6 messages per edition.


_______________________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul 13 18:22:43 1999
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Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 18:20:57 EDT
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #412
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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<< The problem is that a MAF meter's output is
 almost linear where a VAF meter's output is logarithmic >>


Not true, I use to believe that until I adapted a MAF to a HC11 for DFI.  Get 
me tons of problems.

I finally measured the output of the MAF sensor with an aneometer and the 
output varied as the square root of the mass of the airflow.

Linearized the data and the system worked.

See ya,

Mike

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul 13 23:52:55 1999
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Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 23:52:21 EDT
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #412
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Oh no.
 the air meter is heated wire LH.
ill look up spec. at work tomorrow.
Jim Crance

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul 14 11:47:08 1999
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Subject: EEC-IV PROBLEM WITH ACCELERATION
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 12:35:58 -0300
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Hello Friends...
I'm from Brazil, and have a Volkswagen POINTER GTI 2000
but this engine uses eletronic injection FORD EEC-IV...(EFI, not SEFI) with
4 injectors.
When i turn on the engine and step accelerator (move the thortle)
engine respond immediately.... and i repet this step , and no problem
After 1 or 2 minutes , when i step the accelerator, engine
not respond immediately ...
I turn off the engine, turn on again, and accelerate the engine, it respond
immediately
so the delay to defect now is less, after 30 seconds , the problem return
and engine
not respond when i accelerate. (move the thortle)
My EEC-IV use a MAP (manifold absolute pressure)...
I check (run diagnostics) , and EEC return code 18
"18 = Check base timing & advance function - Timing Tests / Ignition TACH
signal erratic "

Some times, when i connect cable to diagnose the EEC, after ENGINE ID,
engine down...
So i replace TFI, and MAP, but no results, problem persists....
Can be HALL SENSOR ?

I would appreciate its help...

Bye
Paulo Mateiroh





From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul 14 15:50:18 1999
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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 15:49:41 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: David Cooley <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: EEC-IV PROBLEM WITH ACCELERATION
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Could be the hall sensor, could be the EEC... Could also be power or ground 
wires with dirty connections going to the EEC or the TFI.


At 03:00 PM 7/14/99 -0400, you wrote:

>Hello Friends...
>I'm from Brazil, and have a Volkswagen POINTER GTI 2000
>but this engine uses eletronic injection FORD EEC-IV...(EFI, not SEFI) with
>4 injectors.
>When i turn on the engine and step accelerator (move the thortle)
>engine respond immediately.... and i repet this step , and no problem
>After 1 or 2 minutes , when i step the accelerator, engine
>not respond immediately ...
>I turn off the engine, turn on again, and accelerate the engine, it respond
>immediately
>so the delay to defect now is less, after 30 seconds , the problem return
>and engine
>not respond when i accelerate. (move the thortle)
>My EEC-IV use a MAP (manifold absolute pressure)...
>I check (run diagnostics) , and EEC return code 18
>"18 = Check base timing & advance function - Timing Tests / Ignition TACH
>signal erratic "
>
>Some times, when i connect cable to diagnose the EEC, after ENGINE ID,
>engine down...
>So i replace TFI, and MAP, but no results, problem persists....
>Can be HALL SENSOR ?


===========================================================
David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068
We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated!
===========================================================


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul 14 16:45:06 1999
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Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 16:43:54 EDT
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #414
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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This VW came with a Ford computer????or did you put it in?????If it is stock 
then yes you could be getting a bad signal from the sensor.....make sure 
spark plug wires aren't introducing "noise" into the sensors' 
wires......otherwise if it is an adapted "kit" sounds more like the AE (accel 
enrichment) needs work...as it always has more upon start up before it moves 
to the higher coolant temps in the lookup tables...hth's
-Carl Summers


In a message dated 7/14/99 12:30:02 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu writes:

<< 
 Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 12:35:58 -0300
 From: "Paulinho" <pmateiro@hotpop.com>
 Subject: EEC-IV PROBLEM WITH ACCELERATION
 
 Hello Friends...
 I'm from Brazil, and have a Volkswagen POINTER GTI 2000
 but this engine uses eletronic injection FORD EEC-IV...(EFI, not SEFI) with
 4 injectors.
 When i turn on the engine and step accelerator (move the thortle)
 engine respond immediately.... and i repet this step , and no problem
 After 1 or 2 minutes , when i step the accelerator, engine
 not respond immediately ...
 I turn off the engine, turn on again, and accelerate the engine, it respond
 immediately
 so the delay to defect now is less, after 30 seconds , the problem return
 and engine
 not respond when i accelerate. (move the thortle)
 My EEC-IV use a MAP (manifold absolute pressure)...
 I check (run diagnostics) , and EEC return code 18
 "18 = Check base timing & advance function - Timing Tests / Ignition TACH
 signal erratic "
 
 Some times, when i connect cable to diagnose the EEC, after ENGINE ID,
 engine down...
 So i replace TFI, and MAP, but no results, problem persists....
 Can be HALL SENSOR ?
 
 I would appreciate its help...
 
 Bye
 Paulo Mateiroh
  >>

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul 14 20:06:19 1999
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Yep, digest version extremely thin, I also seem to miss a few now and then.  Any
news on when we are returning to normal transmission.  I'm actually starting to
get too much work done due to the lack of email traffic.

Dan  dzorde@erggroup.com


Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 14:06:33 PDT
From: "David Sagers" <dls2867@hotmail.com>
Subject: Is my E-mail working?

Noticed that in the last days the digest editions have become very small, 4
to 6 messages per edition.  Has anyone else noticed this?  Used to be that
there was a lot to read, now it's down to a couple of digests per day and
only 4 to 6 messages per edition.




From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul 15 09:00:34 1999
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Paulo,

	I spent a few weeks in Brazil in the early 90's. At that
time almost all of the cars ran on alcohol, and I don't mean
Gasohol(15% alcohol, 85% Gas), I mean pure alcohol. Is this
still true. Does your VW run on alcohol, not gasoline? It
sounds like the conversion of the engine to alcohol really
changed the electronics.

		Ken
>         Re: EEC-IV PROBLEM WITH ACCELERATION

> 
> Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 15:49:41 -0400
> From: David Cooley <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
> Subject: Re: EEC-IV PROBLEM WITH ACCELERATION
> 
> Could be the hall sensor, could be the EEC... Could also be power or ground
> wires with dirty connections going to the EEC or the TFI.
> 
> At 03:00 PM 7/14/99 -0400, you wrote:
> 
> >Hello Friends...
> >I'm from Brazil, and have a Volkswagen POINTER GTI 2000
> >but this engine uses eletronic injection FORD EEC-IV...(EFI, not SEFI) with
> >4 injectors.
> >When i turn on the engine and step accelerator (move the thortle)
> >engine respond immediately.... and i repet this step , and no problem
> >After 1 or 2 minutes , when i step the accelerator, engine
> >not respond immediately ...
> >I turn off the engine, turn on again, and accelerate the engine, it respond
> >immediately
> >so the delay to defect now is less, after 30 seconds , the problem return
> >and engine
> >not respond when i accelerate. (move the thortle)
> >My EEC-IV use a MAP (manifold absolute pressure)...
> >I check (run diagnostics) , and EEC return code 18
> >"18 = Check base timing & advance function - Timing Tests / Ignition TACH
> >signal erratic "
> >
> >Some times, when i connect cable to diagnose the EEC, after ENGINE ID,
> >engine down...
> >So i replace TFI, and MAP, but no results, problem persists....
> >Can be HALL SENSOR ?
> 
> ===========================================================
> David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
> Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068
> We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated!
> ===========================================================
>

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul 16 07:57:19 1999
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DIY_EFI Digest         Thursday, July 8 1999         Volume 04 : Number 402



In this issue:

	1226870 ecm questions
	Thunder Bay EFI
	Hummer Parts (sorry, off subject)
	EFI system comparison
	Re: HELP, I erased the flash in my PCM

See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 15:09:33 EDT
From: Mikepoore@aol.com
Subject: 1226870 ecm questions

I am trying to link my laptop to the ecm datastream. I have learned that it 
is 160bps and that a 10k resistor between the A and B terminals will put the 
ecm into diagnostics mode.

I would like to write a program that I would share with everyone to analyze 
oem systems in the field.

If anyone can answer the following questions, I would greatly appreciate it:

1. What are the communications parameters, i.e. data bits, stop bits, parity, 
etc.

2. Does anyone know how to decode the data into useful information?

3. 160 bps is not a com port option on the menu. Can I just type it in and it 
work?

4. Is there a handshake that must occur when initializing communication, or 
do I just plug it in and start receiving?

5. I've seen Diacom advertised, but has anyone on the list has written 
anything that might be similar?

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 15:18:54 -0400
From: "C. Brooks" <cbrooks1@tqci.net>
Subject: Thunder Bay EFI

Has anyone ever heard of a company called "Thunder Bay"? Supposedly they
deal in EFI hardware. I was given the name in passing by someone I met.

Charles Brooks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 15:58:58 EDT
From: EFISYSTEMS@aol.com
Subject: Hummer Parts (sorry, off subject)

- --part1_272d25ee.24b50b82_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
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In a message dated 7/7/99 12:56:13 PM Pacific Daylight Time, EFISYSTEMS 
writes:

<< Subj:	Hummer Parts (sorry, off subject)
 Date:	7/7/99 12:56:13 PM Pacific Daylight Time
 From:	EFISYSTEMS
 To:	diy_efi@332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 CC:	gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 
 Hi People,
        I am trying to find a cross reference for part numbers that I 
have.....these are for army issue 89-90 hummers with the 6.2 diesel 
engine......I noticed some of the people on this list have hummers and would 
appreciate any response I get.....all the part numbers I have are from 
Mexico...ex  5740046......5740072....and approx 100 more...all descriptions I 
have are in spanish and aren't of much use.....anyone????
 Thanks again,
 -Carl Summers >>


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From: EFISYSTEMS@aol.com
Full-name: EFISYSTEMS
Message-ID: <272d25ee.24b50add@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 15:56:13 EDT
Subject: Hummer Parts (sorry, off subject)
To: diy_efi@332.eng.ohio-state.edu
CC: gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Hi People,
       I am trying to find a cross reference for part numbers that I 
have.....these are for army issue 89-90 hummers with the 6.2 diesel 
engine......I noticed some of the people on this list have hummers and would 
appreciate any response I get.....all the part numbers I have are from 
Mexico...ex  5740046......5740072....and approx 100 more...all descriptions I 
have are in spanish and aren't of much use.....anyone????
Thanks again,
- -Carl Summers

- --part1_272d25ee.24b50b82_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 16:38:42 -0400
From: "C. Brooks" <cbrooks1@tqci.net>
Subject: EFI system comparison

OK, I just uploaded the comparison to the incoming directory. The file name
is EFICOMP.rtf

Sorry it took so long.

Charles Brooks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 18:04:56 -0500
From: "Jennifer and Brock Fraser" <fraser@forbin.com>
Subject: Re: HELP, I erased the flash in my PCM

> Dave Hempstead wrote:
>
> > What do you experts do when they try to reflash a PCM, and you get a =
> > glitch, power failure, or some other error code.  I doubt that you throw
=
> > it away.  How do you recover the PCM???
>
> I'm not sure who you're thinking of when you say expert, but at the
> dealership level we would have to order a replacement pcm.  GM loves
> to warn against letting the pcm voltage drop while programming one.
> For a tech, you're part would be declared DOA.
> Shannen

You see how the computer kinda has a wedge shape to it?  Well, we used to
call PCM's such as yours "wheel chocks" or "door stops".  Don't mean to make
fun of your unfortunate situation, but what can I say...  better get out
your [de]soldering station.  BTW-  This problem cost a company I used to
work for a LOT of money until some problems were resolved... if that makes
you feel any better.

- -Brock

------------------------------

End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #402
*****************************

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul 16 12:52:58 1999
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Does anyone have any wiring diagrams for the Bosch KE-Jetronic 
CIS systems?

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul 16 16:09:45 1999
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Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 15:13:43 -0500
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Subject: Re: HELP, I erased the flash in my PCM
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>
>Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 18:04:56 -0500
>From: "Jennifer and Brock Fraser" <fraser@forbin.com>
>Subject: Re: HELP, I erased the flash in my PCM
>
>You see how the computer kinda has a wedge shape to it?  Well, we used to
>call PCM's such as yours "wheel chocks" or "door stops".  Don't mean to make
>fun of your unfortunate situation, but what can I say...  better get out
>your [de]soldering station.  BTW-  This problem cost a company I used to
>work for a LOT of money until some problems were resolved... if that makes
>you feel any better.
>
>- - -Brock
>

Brock...

How's it going?  ...  We still call them "wheel chocks" here!  :) :)
Their newer '98 and '99 computers aren't any better!!

Donald



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul 16 19:29:26 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Barry Tisdale <btisdale@cybersol.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #417
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At 03:00 PM 7/16/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>DIY_EFI Digest          Friday, July 16 1999          Volume 04 : Number 417
>
>
>
>In this issue:
>
>	DIY_EFI Digest V4 #402
>	Wiring Diagrams
>
>See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
>DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 05:00:01 -0400
>From: DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu (DIY_EFI Digest)
>Subject: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #402
>
>DIY_EFI Digest         Thursday, July 8 1999         Volume 04 : Number 402
>
>
>
>In this issue:
>
>	1226870 ecm questions
>	Thunder Bay EFI
>	Hummer Parts (sorry, off subject)
>	EFI system comparison
>	Re: HELP, I erased the flash in my PCM
>
>See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
>DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.
>
>- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 15:09:33 EDT
>From: Mikepoore@aol.com
>Subject: 1226870 ecm questions
>
>I am trying to link my laptop to the ecm datastream. I have learned that it 
>is 160bps and that a 10k resistor between the A and B terminals will put the 
>ecm into diagnostics mode.
>
>I would like to write a program that I would share with everyone to analyze 
>oem systems in the field.
>
>If anyone can answer the following questions, I would greatly appreciate it:
>
>1. What are the communications parameters, i.e. data bits, stop bits, parity, 
>etc.
>
>2. Does anyone know how to decode the data into useful information?
>
>3. 160 bps is not a com port option on the menu. Can I just type it in and it 
>work?
>
>4. Is there a handshake that must occur when initializing communication, or 
>do I just plug it in and start receiving?
>
>5. I've seen Diacom advertised, but has anyone on the list has written 
>anything that might be similar?
>
>Mike
>
>- ------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 15:18:54 -0400
>From: "C. Brooks" <cbrooks1@tqci.net>
>Subject: Thunder Bay EFI
>
>Has anyone ever heard of a company called "Thunder Bay"? Supposedly they
>deal in EFI hardware. I was given the name in passing by someone I met.
>
>Charles Brooks
>
>- ------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 15:58:58 EDT
>From: EFISYSTEMS@aol.com
>Subject: Hummer Parts (sorry, off subject)
>
>- - --part1_272d25ee.24b50b82_boundary
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
>In a message dated 7/7/99 12:56:13 PM Pacific Daylight Time, EFISYSTEMS 
>writes:
>
><< Subj:	Hummer Parts (sorry, off subject)
> Date:	7/7/99 12:56:13 PM Pacific Daylight Time
> From:	EFISYSTEMS
> To:	diy_efi@332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> CC:	gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> 
> Hi People,
>        I am trying to find a cross reference for part numbers that I 
>have.....these are for army issue 89-90 hummers with the 6.2 diesel 
>engine......I noticed some of the people on this list have hummers and would 
>appreciate any response I get.....all the part numbers I have are from 
>Mexico...ex  5740046......5740072....and approx 100 more...all descriptions I 
>have are in spanish and aren't of much use.....anyone????
> Thanks again,
> -Carl Summers >>
>
>
>- - --part1_272d25ee.24b50b82_boundary
>Content-Type: message/rfc822
>Content-Disposition: inline
>
>Return-path: EFISYSTEMS@aol.com
>From: EFISYSTEMS@aol.com
>Full-name: EFISYSTEMS
>Message-ID: <272d25ee.24b50add@aol.com>
>Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 15:56:13 EDT
>Subject: Hummer Parts (sorry, off subject)
>To: diy_efi@332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>CC: gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows 95 sub 13
>
>Hi People,
>       I am trying to find a cross reference for part numbers that I 
>have.....these are for army issue 89-90 hummers with the 6.2 diesel 
>engine......I noticed some of the people on this list have hummers and would 
>appreciate any response I get.....all the part numbers I have are from 
>Mexico...ex  5740046......5740072....and approx 100 more...all descriptions I 
>have are in spanish and aren't of much use.....anyone????
>Thanks again,
>- - -Carl Summers
>
>- - --part1_272d25ee.24b50b82_boundary--
>
>- ------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 16:38:42 -0400
>From: "C. Brooks" <cbrooks1@tqci.net>
>Subject: EFI system comparison
>
>OK, I just uploaded the comparison to the incoming directory. The file name
>is EFICOMP.rtf
>
>Sorry it took so long.
>
>Charles Brooks
>
>- ------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 18:04:56 -0500
>From: "Jennifer and Brock Fraser" <fraser@forbin.com>
>Subject: Re: HELP, I erased the flash in my PCM
>
>> Dave Hempstead wrote:
>>
>> > What do you experts do when they try to reflash a PCM, and you get a =
>> > glitch, power failure, or some other error code.  I doubt that you throw
>=
>> > it away.  How do you recover the PCM???
>>
>> I'm not sure who you're thinking of when you say expert, but at the
>> dealership level we would have to order a replacement pcm.  GM loves
>> to warn against letting the pcm voltage drop while programming one.
>> For a tech, you're part would be declared DOA.
>> Shannen
>
>You see how the computer kinda has a wedge shape to it?  Well, we used to
>call PCM's such as yours "wheel chocks" or "door stops".  Don't mean to make
>fun of your unfortunate situation, but what can I say...  better get out
>your [de]soldering station.  BTW-  This problem cost a company I used to
>work for a LOT of money until some problems were resolved... if that makes
>you feel any better.
>
>- - -Brock
>
>- ------------------------------
>
>End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #402
>*****************************
>
>To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command:
>
>    subscribe diy_efi-digest
>
>in the body of a message to "Majordomo@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu".  
>
>A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to
>subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command
> above with "diy_efi".
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 10:49:38 -0600
>From: cwagner@info2000.net
>Subject: Wiring Diagrams
>
>Does anyone have any wiring diagrams for the Bosch KE-Jetronic 
>CIS systems?
>
>------------------------------
>
>End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #417
>*****************************
>
>To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command:
>
>    subscribe diy_efi-digest
>
>in the body of a message to "Majordomo@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu".  
>
>A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to
>subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command
> above with "diy_efi".
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul 16 20:34:30 1999
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Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 20:35:28 -0400
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
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Hi, all.  I was attempting to copy a calibration last week, and was
having problems with the files coming up with zeros in all locations. 
After several attempts, and much double and triplechecking various
items, I decided it was the memcal.  Some investigation, and handy
work with a pick and razor blade revealed that the programmer had
clipped pin 28 of the 27256 chip.  A small pin completed the open
circuit, but now I couldn't get a read that would verify.  More
investigation revealed another clipped pin, I believe # 14.  There's a
pinout here: http://www.twinight.org/chipdir/giicm/27256.txt
which shows the pins as VCC and GND.  

What is VCC
Am I remembering incorrectly about the GND pin being clipped? (they
were cross corner, top right and lower left of chip)
Is there a brief way to explain why this worked, and how the chip was
still able to work in the ecm?

Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul 16 22:17:07 1999
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From: "Paulo Mateiro" <pmateiro@hotpop.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: EEC-IV PROBLEM WITH ACCELERATION 
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 01:04:35 -0300
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    Hello Ken;
    You is correct, our alcohol is 97% alcohol and 2% methanol , 1% water
    or 97% alcohol, 3% gasoline, and in some places
    100% alcohol. Today most cars runs with gas. more than 65%...
    
    My eec-iv unit is to gas, my stock engine is gasoline....
    My engine have 120hp gas,  the same model have 155hp with alcohol..
    But, the same parts of model gas is the same to alcohol...
    except the calibration ,sure. : )
    So Ken, i checked:
    Coil
    Spark Plugs
    Sensor Lambanda
    TFI (i replace)
    MAP (i replace)
    TPS   
    TEMPERATURE SENSOR (i replace)
    HALL SENSOR
    
    Wires, voltage, connection of wires to ground...
    so , all correct, but when i connect to diagnose
    after ENGINE ID, engine down, or when it step pass
    i receive the CODE 18...
    when not in diagnose mode, in normal mode...
    engine run ok for 30 or 60 seconds, after it, 
    when i accel... rpm "up with faliure"
    (sorry, my english is bad)
    Thanks ...
    Paulo
    


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jul 17 10:31:08 1999
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Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 09:35:51 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Barry Tisdale <btisdale@cybersol.com>
Subject: Sorry for the repost
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Sorry for reposting the digest yesterday; not quite sure how that happened, but I'll be more careful in my replies in the future.

Barry - (missing the list format)

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jul 17 13:03:28 1999
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Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 17:07:43 +0000
From: Donald Whisnant <dewhisna@ix.netcom.com>
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To: gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: AS6811 Assembler is now online!!
References: <199907170900.FAA01583@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Alan Baldwin's AS6811 Assembler is now online!!

I have now posted the latest version (2.1) of Alan Baldwin's 6811
Assembler.  This is the assembler that my disassembler was targetted
for.  I haven't had a chance to check and verify his new version
yet, so I also posted version 1.5 which I have used extensively.

The source code is also included!

You will also be interested to know that this assembler package contains
much more than just the AS6811 assembler.  It contains assemblers for
the 6500, 6800, 6801, 6804, 6805, 6808, 6809, 6811, 6812, 6816, 8051,
8085, Z80, and H8.  And, his latest version (version 2.1) contains ports
to Linux!!  YEAH!

Do NOT confuse this assembler with the AS11 Motorola Freeware Assembler!

To download the assembler, simply goto:

http://home.midsouth.rr.com/dewtronics/download.html

and click the link to enter the M6811 Disassembler Project Page.  There,
you'll find a link to the AS6811 Download Page.  Sorry to have to make
you follow so many links, but because my ISP dynamically assigns IP's,
which can change anytime, I can't register my domain and I can't give a
direct link to the exact page.  Also, if the server doesn't respond,
please try again -- the RoadRunner cable modem service goes down very
often (major crash about every 2-3 weeks).

Enjoy!
Donald Whisnant
dewhisna@ix.netcom.com

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jul 17 15:02:17 1999
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> Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 20:35:28 -0400
> From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
> Subject: Pretty Good Protection
> 
> Hi, all.  I was attempting to copy a calibration last week, and was
> having problems with the files coming up with zeros in all locations.
> After several attempts, and much double and triplechecking various
> items, I decided it was the memcal.  Some investigation, and handy
> work with a pick and razor blade revealed that the programmer had
> clipped pin 28 of the 27256 chip.  A small pin completed the open
> circuit, but now I couldn't get a read that would verify.  More
> investigation revealed another clipped pin, I believe # 14.  There's a
> pinout here: http://www.twinight.org/chipdir/giicm/27256.txt
> which shows the pins as VCC and GND.
> 
> What is VCC
> Am I remembering incorrectly about the GND pin being clipped? (they
> were cross corner, top right and lower left of chip)
> Is there a brief way to explain why this worked, and how the chip was
> still able to work in the ecm?
> 
> Shannen
> 

Vcc is power for normal chip operation.  Vpp is also power, but only
used during programming.  That chip would not have worked in the circuit
without vcc and gnd, maybe they got broken at some point?  Did you ever
take it out of the socket?

--steve

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jul 17 17:27:08 1999
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I've got a real dumb question on ecu's. Why can't a gm ecu such as a 
16159278, P4 TPI, be reprogrammed with a haltech or other aftermarket program 
so that you can have real time tuning capability? Is't the hardware already 
there? Can you dump the factory programing and reinstall? Would an 
aftermarket program work? Can't a serial port be added for the laptop? Would 
the aldl connector work as the serial port? Could this be economically 
feasable?  There are alot of gm ecu's out there sure is a shame to let them 
go to waste. What are the most significant problems to accomplish this goal? 
Would it work?

Wayne

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jul 18 11:09:29 1999
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From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
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Steve Ravet wrote:
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 13:59:00 -0500
> From: steve ravet <Steve.Ravet@arm.com>
> Subject: vcc/gnd
> 
> > Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 20:35:28 -0400
> > From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
> > Subject: Pretty Good Protection
> >
> > Hi, all.  I was attempting to copy a calibration last week, and was
> > having problems with the files coming up with zeros in all locations.
> > After several attempts, and much double and triplechecking various
> > items, I decided it was the memcal.  Some investigation, and handy
> > work with a pick and razor blade revealed that the programmer had
> > clipped pin 28 of the 27256 chip.  A small pin completed the open
> > circuit, but now I couldn't get a read that would verify.  More
> > investigation revealed another clipped pin, I believe # 14.  There's a
> > pinout here: http://www.twinight.org/chipdir/giicm/27256.txt
> > which shows the pins as VCC and GND.
> >
> > What is VCC
> > Am I remembering incorrectly about the GND pin being clipped? (they
> > were cross corner, top right and lower left of chip)
> > Is there a brief way to explain why this worked, and how the chip was
> > still able to work in the ecm?
> >
> > Shannen
> >
> 
> Vcc is power for normal chip operation.  Vpp is also power, but only
> used during programming.  That chip would not have worked in the circuit
> without vcc and gnd, maybe they got broken at some point?  Did you ever
> take it out of the socket?
> 
> - --steve
> 
> - --
> Steve Ravet
> steve.ravet@arm.com
> Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
> www.arm.com
> 
You're not the first person to say it wouldn't work without power and
ground. LOL. Anyway, the pins were definitely clipped by the chip
tuner.  Was the pinout at the url in the original post correct?  I
could have the pin locations wrong, but I'm sure that they were on the
upper right and lower left of the chip, with the notch pointed up. 
Once I added some "jumpers" to replace the cut pins, I was able to
read the calibration.  Subsequent reprogramming of another chip with
that file worked fine, and the clipped chip worked perfectly when
re-installed.  Next time I'll take better notes.  
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jul 19 10:13:37 1999
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	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: ECU'S
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The only thing really stopping this is that the data is all stored in an
EPROM. As soon as someone has a working RAM replacement, it'll be easy.
I finished wiring mine up last night. Dual Port Ram chip, and a PIC to
control it. I hope to test it by this weekend.

> 
> I've got a real dumb question on ecu's. Why can't a gm ecu such as a 
> 16159278, P4 TPI, be reprogrammed with a haltech or other 
> aftermarket program 
> so that you can have real time tuning capability? Is't the 
> hardware already 
> there? Can you dump the factory programing and reinstall? Would an 
> aftermarket program work? Can't a serial port be added for 
> the laptop? Would 
> the aldl connector work as the serial port? Could this be 
> economically 
> feasable?  There are alot of gm ecu's out there sure is a 
> shame to let them 
> go to waste. What are the most significant problems to 
> accomplish this goal? 
> Would it work?
> 
> Wayne

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jul 19 15:26:53 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: ECU's
From: jsg@donet.com
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1999 15:26:47 -0400
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| The only thing really stopping this is that the data is all stored in an
| EPROM. As soon as someone has a working RAM replacement, it'll be easy.
| I finished wiring mine up last night. Dual Port Ram chip, and a PIC to
| control it. I hope to test it by this weekend.

FYI, I do have a modification to the 7730 ecms that adds a switchable
Dallas battery backed up ram chip (switchable between eprom and
nvram... all within the original case). I'm working on better software
now (diacom/table editor functions within the ROOT C++ development
framework). The ecm data are alterable through the aldl. I'll get a
picture up on the web as soon as I can borrow a digital camera.

john gwynne


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul 20 00:25:34 1999
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Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1999 00:24:43 EDT
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #412 saab air meter
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 Brad 
 the pin out is as follows. this is for aluminum one with adjustment screw.
 pin  1-4 volt burn off
 pin 2-12 volt power in
 pin 3-reostat [380 ohm centered] between pin 3 and 6
 pin 4- ground
 pin 5- output
 pin 6- signal ground
   
 hope this helps
 Jim

 

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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 1227730 ecu or 16198262 ecu needed, 687 ecu for sale/trade
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1999 23:25:38 -0700
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have 1226867 & gm throttle body etc for sale/trade.
would like to find ecu out of '91 camaro.

please email me off line.

thanks, Ted Stowe


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul 21 00:54:11 1999
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Hi John,
        This sounds pretty neat I look forward to seeing it...
-Carl Summers

In a message dated 7/20/99 2:27:07 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu writes:

<< Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1999 15:26:47 -0400
 From: jsg@donet.com
 Subject: ECU's
 
 | The only thing really stopping this is that the data is all stored in an
 | EPROM. As soon as someone has a working RAM replacement, it'll be easy.
 | I finished wiring mine up last night. Dual Port Ram chip, and a PIC to
 | control it. I hope to test it by this weekend.
 
 FYI, I do have a modification to the 7730 ecms that adds a switchable
 Dallas battery backed up ram chip (switchable between eprom and
 nvram... all within the original case). I'm working on better software
 now (diacom/table editor functions within the ROOT C++ development
 framework). The ecm data are alterable through the aldl. I'll get a
 picture up on the web as soon as I can borrow a digital camera.
 
 john gwynne
 
  >>

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From: DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu (DIY_EFI Digest)
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DIY_EFI Digest         Tuesday, July 13 1999         Volume 04 : Number 411



In this issue:

	Haltech
	RE: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #407
	Saab 900T AMM (MAF) Swap
	ecu design

See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 19:16:35 -0400
From: "C. Brooks" <cbrooks1@tqci.net>
Subject: Haltech

Hi all, I was looking through the archives and ran across mention of a group
buy for Haltech E6GM's. Are any of the participants still on the list? If
you don't mind, I'd like to hear about the unit and what you think of it.
What was your application? Did it work out? How do you like the S/W? etc...

Charles Brooks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 16:02:02 -0700
From: "Stegbauer, Michael" <mike.stegbauer@compaq.com>
Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #407

> Subject: Injector info
>
> I just uploaded a file called injector.rtf to the FTP site. It's a list of
> 100+ injectors, with p/n's, applications, and flow rates.
>
> I can't take credit for compiling the info though, a friend of mine traded
> the info for a six-pack of Guiness not sure where he got it but it's been
> pretty accurate for me . Wouldn't you know it, he wouldn't let me have the
> info until I delivered the beer!

I'm afraid I have to doubt the reliability of this info...
Guiness comes in four-packs.       ;-)

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 20:43:36 -0400
From: bjanesi@juno.com
Subject: Saab 900T AMM (MAF) Swap

I've been off this list for some time, but have jumped back on now that
I'm in the middle of a project that has some relevance.

Specifically, I'm trying to replace the stock Bosch VAF meter in a Merkur
XR4Ti (2.3L Ford Turbo) with the MAF (AMM in Saab verbiage) meter from a
'86 Saab 900T (16v 2.0L Turbo).  

My initial thoughts were that I might get lucky and have a plug-n-play
swap (with a little electrical work) since the intake consumptions are
fairly close.  Even though the Saab MAF has an adjustment screw (What
specifically does it adjust?), now I'm thinking this is still not likely
since I'm hearing the output curves are different between a MAF and VAF.

But before I get that far, I still need to define the 6 circuits on the
MAF, and their input/output ranges.  I have the schematic, but it only
tells me where everything goes.  The 4 circuits that route to the PCM (LH
Jetronic) are still a question mark.  If I had the whole running car
(rather than just the MAF), I'd figure it all out in 30 minutes.

Anyone care to comment or provide some insight?

Thanks,

Brad Anesi
'88 XR4Ti 5-speed
...and some other assorted German & Italian hardware  ...but no Swedes

___________________________________________________________________
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 15:31:07 +1000
From: "Lowther, Peter" <Peter.Lowther@dofa.gov.au>
Subject: ecu design

What are the procedures for registering onto the diy_efi list?

I'm interested in locating a circuit design for building a DIY ecu.

Peter Lowther

------------------------------

End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #411
*****************************

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul 21 13:08:33 1999
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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: 1227730 ecu or 16198262 ecu needed, 687 ecu for sale/trade
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1999 10:06:40 -0700
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Hi.

someone was nice enough to send me an email about getting a 730 from a local
yard, however I accidentally deleted the email, or moved it to some folder
for safe keeping, in either case, if that person would email me back I'd
appreciate it. sorry for the duplicate message.

thanks, Ted Stowe

-----Original Message-----
From: Stowe, Ted-SEA 
Sent: Monday, July 19, 1999 11:26 PM
To: 'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'
Subject: 1227730 ecu or 16198262 ecu needed, 687 ecu for sale/trade



have 1226867 & gm throttle body etc for sale/trade.
would like to find ecu out of '91 camaro.

please email me off line.

thanks, Ted Stowe


NOTICE:  This communication may contain privileged or other confidential information.  If you are not the intended recipient, or believe that you have received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, retransmit, disseminate, or otherwise use the information.  Also, please indicate to the sender that you have received this email in error, and delete the copy you received. Thank you.




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul 21 15:36:04 1999
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Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1999 15:40:44 -0400
Subject: 6801 Disassembler
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Does anyone know where I can find a disassembler for a M6801?

TIA,
James H.
Valrico, FL
war_machine1@juno.com
'78 Honda CB 750 F3 SOHC/4 Member #764
'82 Honda CB 650

___________________________________________________________________
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul 21 23:51:47 1999
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Subject: Dumpster Divers - starters
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All you DDs out there, keep your eyes open for the best GM starter ever
made. There is the Corvette starter, ok but... There are three versions
of today's small motor (w/ permanent magnets) starter.
1. - standard 4-V6 starter, 2. - same starter with the big nose from the
4.3 V6 (and 350, I think), and 3. - the same starter with an in-line
gear reduction unit from heavy duty S10 4WD w/ 4.3 V6. It is longer and
looks like a shrunk 350 Diesel starter.  It will start anything
including pro-stock motors. It starts my buddys 16/1CR  430 alcohol SBC
easily.

I got mine from the local GM dealer for a $20 core charge. It seems they
are noisey and often replaced under warranty.   Good hunting -- I'll
take ten more if you can find them... Tom


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul 22 14:10:52 1999
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Subject: test...
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Ignore this...

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul 22 14:22:03 1999
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Has anyone heard anything about Bruce?
james


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul 22 16:16:53 1999
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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?= <jurg@2.sbbs.se>
To: "DIY_EFI Mailinglist" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: I have some methanol questions.
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1999 22:19:36 +0200
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First of all what is the octane rating of methanol?
I have heard figures ranging from 105 octane to 126 octane!

Will the corrosion be stopped If I blend 0.5% of 2stroke oil in the
methanol?
I am not sure that methanol and oil even mixes, if not; will 2stroke oil mix
in a 15%gas,85%methanol blend?

I plan to use two large (very large)injectors with methanol placed before
the throttle body, as secondary injectors. The primary injectors are placed
at the ports.

I will use five 40 lbs injectors as primaries (yes it is a I5 engine) and I
will start batch firing the methanol injectors and the primaries above
15psi. If the methanol distribution proves to be reliable I want to install
five methanol injectors in a port setup that provides all the fuel above
15psi.

Jörgen
jurg@2.sbbs.se


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul 22 21:10:08 1999
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Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1999 21:08:43 EDT
Subject: Blank ECM Prom chips
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I would like to purchase blank chips for '87 Buick GN Turbo computers and 
others
please let me know where I can get these.
Thank You

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul 22 21:47:24 1999
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From: "Mike" <Itsmike@lvcm.com>
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I just joined the list a couple of days ago and havent seen much traffic, Is
this normal or am i not recieving the email?

thanks
mike




From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul 22 23:59:22 1999
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Subject: DSP DFI
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 00:03:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <199907221900.PAA07179@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu> from "DIY_EFI Digest" at Jul 22, 99 03:00:01 pm
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has anyone investigated using a programmable DSP as a FI computer
was at a demo today of a link card that can host 48x 920k I/O
channels on a single board
it uses a single DSP chip

something like this could make a very interesting DSP setup

Clive 
 

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DIY_EFI Digest         Thursday, July 8 1999         Volume 04 : Number 403



In this issue:

	Re: A/F by volume
	Re: req: lambda probe model
	M6811DIS Disassembler

See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 10:59:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mark Wilcutts <markw@vehicle.me.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: A/F by volume

Totally depends on what temperature and pressure you are looking at. For
reference, density of air is 1.20 kg/m^3 at 20 deg.C and atmospheric
pressure. Stoichiometric mixture is 14.2-15.2 kg air per kg fuel,
depending on fuel composition. Density of gasoline is between 732 and 752
kg/m^3, depending on season and grade, at 60 deg. F. You can do the math
from there...

On Sun, 4 Jul 1999, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:

> From: "Dave (G6ZKC)" <dave@palms.screaming.net>
> 
> Hi All,
>         I'm I right in thinking that A/F by volume is something 10,000:1 =
> ? i.e 10,000 cc air to 1 of gas?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 8 Jul 1999 11:07:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mark Wilcutts <markw@vehicle.me.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Re: req: lambda probe model

It's an electrochemical cell that depends on the concentration of oxygen
on either side of the ceramic electrolyte. Redox reactions on the platinum
surfaces of the probe influence the voltage to a great degree as well.
Look back in the archives for May, there was some good discussion of this.

On Tue, 6 Jul 1999, "Alfieri, Maurizio" <MAlfie@landi.it> wrote:

> Is there someone who knows an equivalent electric circuit for a lambda
> probe? (i mean the switch characteristic probes, the ones installed on
> serie veichles to feedback injection, not the linear ones)
> Or some parametric model?
>  
> How can they read rich exhaust if they are sensitive to O2? 
> Where does this residual O2 come from?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 07 Jul 1999 14:00:09 -0500
From: Donald Whisnant <dewhisna@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: M6811DIS Disassembler

Hi DIY'ers...

Back a couple of years ago, I offered free copies of my 68HC11
code-seeking disassembler (since GM uses Motorola processors almost
exclusively) and have had many people request a copy...  At that time,
I had no instruction manual written...  Recently, I've finished the
manual and have posted a new ZIP of the disassembler on my website for
all to download, along with some Motorola documents...  Soon I'll also
have Alan Baldwin's AS6811 assembler (the assembler my disassembler was
targetted for) online as well...

I am also working on writing several new versions of the disassembler
to overcome the limitations of this DOS 16-bit version...  Those will
be posted when they become available...  You can read about those
versions on my site...

To download the disassembler goto:

http://home.midsouth.rr.com/dewtronics

(all lowercase)  Once there, goto the downloads page...  There will
be a link for downloading the disassembler...  The link will take
you directly to my machine where I have the file (we have dynamic IP's
so you must go through this front-end)...  Because of the IP's, you
can bookmark the front-end page on midsouth.rr.com, but don't bookmark
anything on my machine directly, as they will be invalidated when our
IP's change... ...  If you have problems contacting the machine, try
later -- RoadRunner cable modems have problems quite often (usually a
major crash once every 2-3 weeks!)...

I also ask that you fill out the online form to "register" -- I enjoy
tracking where my programs go -- so far this one is in over 12 different
countries! ...  You don't have to register if you don't want to, but
I would prefer it and any information submitted will be kept
completely confidential...  You can also "vote" for versions that don't
exist yet to help determine which versions should have top priority...

While there, feel free to browse the rest of the site -- though much
of the site is still under heavy construction and is very incomplete...

Enjoy...
Donald Whisnant
dewhisna@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #403
*****************************

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul 23 11:30:39 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Jason Haines <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
Subject: switching O2 sensor specifications
Cc: gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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I am trying to find technical information on response times, switching
rates, lean to rich and rich to lean transition times, etc. and the
variables that effect them (temperature, pressure etc.) on switch type O2
sensors made by AC, NGK and Bosch - anyone have any recommendations on
where I could find this information? I have already gone through the SAE
papers and have not found a lot.


thanks,


Jason




From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jul 24 13:01:54 1999
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jul 24 15:43:50 1999
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Subject: Another test...
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Been having some trouble...

Orin, list admin.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jul 26 11:49:22 1999
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 17:56:51 +0200
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Hi

I am designing my own ignition system right now and are planing to use
the Harries HIP9010 or HIP9011 knock sensor chip.

Does anyone know anything mor than the datasheet says????

How to decide what to choose 9010 or 9011 ?
Is the basic circuit in the datasheet enough ?
What parameters should I start with in the different registers ?
How to make tests and evaluation quickest and easiest ?

My engine is a Volvo B230F:
4 cylinder cast iron block with aloy head
Overhead camshaft
Displacement 2.3 liters
RPM range 600 to 6000 rpm
aprox power 150-160 hp
Fuel injection (214 ml/min injectors)
Knocksensor BOSH 0 261 237 006 mounted in top center of the engine block
(just below the head)

Does anyone have any suggestions pleas let me know via this list or
direct mail to:
nisse@hisstema.se

Best regards

Nils Björkman



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jul 26 15:27:28 1999
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Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 13:25:41 -0600
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Subject: TPI into a 86 4x4 Suburban.
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Hello
I have a 1986 Chevy Suburban 4x4,  this truck has a 350 freshly rebuilt 
engine with a Q-jet carburetor, and I would like to change it to Tuned Port 
Fuel injection. I also have to pass emission inspection, so the air pumps / 
EGR must be "there". If this is the wrong group to ask this question, 
please forgive me. I have checked the lists archive, but I did not see the 
any post's on putting TPI into a full size 86  4x4 Suburban.The reason to 
change to fuel injection, is to learn how fuel injection operates, and to 
hopefully have a better running truck.

TIA

David 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul 27 00:10:37 1999
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Please don't try to unsubscribe from the digest then subscribe
to the regular list.  At best nothing will happen and you
will stay on the digest.  At worst, you will end up unsubscribed
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I'm sending this out because I'm getting a few subscribe
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Hopefully, we will find a relay for the regular list and we
will be able to go back to the non-digest version.

Orin, list admin.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul 27 10:39:49 1999
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Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 10:39:10 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Barry Tisdale <btisdale@cybersol.com>
Subject: Trip computer?
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I owned a Dodge Omni, early '80s carb version, which had an aftermarket trip computer installed.  It'd give you MPG, time to empty, miles & time to destination, etc.  Info needed by it was wheel rpm, time & fuel flow.  Flowmeter on fuel line to carb gave it that info.

Question:  are there any units available for FI engines, where a fuel flowmeter wouldn't be of much use?  Could you get *any* sort of accuracy calculating from rpm, bpw & throttle opening?  Maybe 2 flowmeters, one on supply rail, one on return line, subtract out from in?

Any thoughts from anyone?

Thanks - Barry

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul 27 11:00:21 1999
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From: "David Sagers" <dls2867@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: TPI into a 86 4x4 Suburban.
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 07:59:49 PDT
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I'm in the process of doing a similar conversion, except mine is a '92.

There is a lot of work to do, but many resources for the parts & 
information.

How far along are you?  Have you decided to go with a MAF or a MAP system or 
will you use what you can find?

You might start with http://www.fuelinjection.com/   These guys specialize 
in complete conversions or just parts depending on what you want.  The 
complete kit from Fuel Injection Specialties is a whopping $2400!!  You can 
save yourself some major dollars by
just shopping around, in fact by watching the ads on:

http://128.196.140.199/classifieds/search2.cfm?type=sale&which=part

you can usually find complete TPI systems.  Before you buy many parts do 
some research and decide what you want or you could end up like me and have 
lots of extra parts around that you won’t be using.  For instance, with a 
350 you probably don’t want to buy the huge 58mm or 1000 cfm throttle body, 
stay with the smaller version and driveability will be a lot better.  Also 
consider that many of the  “speed parts or the week” are made for high 
revving IROCs and Z28s, a 4x4 is a different story.

Read all the info at the Fuel Injection Specialties web site.  They can even 
help you figure out which cable you’ll need for the tranny, throttle and 
cruise control.  I’ve called them a couple of times and they are good to 
talk to on the phone.

Here are a few items I learned along the way.  The center head to manifold 
bolt angle changed in about ‘87.  If you use older heads with a TPI intake, 
the bolt holes in the intake will need to be elongated, since you engine is 
already built just plan on this modification.

The injectors give a better spray pattern if run at fuel pressures somewhat 
above the factory settings, try 50 to 55 vs.  the factory setting of 45.  
For a 350 start out with the 22 lbs injectors and bump the fuel pressure.

On my ‘92 I have to change the mounting brackets for the A/C for the TPI, 
Fuel Injection Specialties can tell you what you need for your application.

Filter your fuel with a good high pressure filter made for the higher 
pressures in an TPI.  DO NOT use a filter made for a carbureted system or a 
TBI system!!  They can burst and create a deadly fire.

Don’t fight with the factory wiring harness, buy one from Painless Wiring, 
see their web page at:  http://www.painlesswiring.com/    This harness 
connects everything from the VSS, to the tranny lockup, to the fuel pump 
relays, etc...   Again, read everything on the web site, but when it comes 
time to buy the harness, buy it from Summit, you’ll save a couple of hundred 
dollars.  Painless even recommends that you buy from one of their dealers 
instead of buying from them.  Once you own the Painless harness they have 
very good tech support.
But before you buy make sure you know which type of system you are going to 
use.

I don’t mind continuing this conversation on line, in fact maybe it’ll 
revive this board.  However, if you want to you can contact me off line.


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul 27 15:59:34 1999
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Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 15:59:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
Subject: Re: Trip computer?
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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a few months ago circuit cellar ink ( a magazine)
had just that kind of beasty
 try

http://www.oztechnics.com.au/frame_car.htm

this beast keeps track of your injector on time

hope it helps


Previously, you (DIY_EFI Digest) wrote:
> 
> DIY_EFI Digest         Tuesday, July 27 1999         Volume 04 : Number 435
> 
> 
> 
> In this issue:
> 
> 	Trip computer?
> 	TPI into a 86 4x4 Suburban.
> 
> See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
> DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 10:39:10 -0400
> From: Barry Tisdale <btisdale@cybersol.com>
> Subject: Trip computer?
> 
> I owned a Dodge Omni, early '80s carb version, which had an aftermarket trip computer installed.  It'd give you MPG, time to empty, miles & time to destination, etc.  Info needed by it was wheel rpm, time & fuel flow.  Flowmeter on fuel line to carb gave it that info.
> 
> Question:  are there any units available for FI engines, where a fuel flowmeter wouldn't be of much use?  Could you get *any* sort of accuracy calculating from rpm, bpw & throttle opening?  Maybe 2 flowmeters, one on supply rail, one on return line, subtract out from in?
> 
> Any thoughts from anyone?
> 
> Thanks - Barry
> 

> ------------------------------
> 
> End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #435
> *****************************
> 
> To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command:
> 
>     subscribe diy_efi-digest
> 
> in the body of a message to "Majordomo@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu".  
> 
> A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to
> subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command
>  above with "diy_efi".
> 

--
Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul 27 17:53:54 1999
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #435
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>
> Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 10:39:10 -0400
> From: Barry Tisdale <btisdale@cybersol.com>
> Subject: Trip computer?
>
> I owned a Dodge Omni, early '80s carb version, which had an aftermarket
trip computer installed.  It'd give you MPG, time to empty, miles & time to
destination, etc.  Info needed by it was wheel rpm, time & fuel flow.
Flowmeter on fuel line to carb gave it that info.
>
> Question:  are there any units available for FI engines, where a fuel
flowmeter wouldn't be of much use?  Could you get *any* sort of accuracy
calculating from rpm, bpw & throttle opening?  Maybe 2 flowmeters, one on
supply rail, one on return line, subtract out from in?
>
> Any thoughts from anyone?
>

> Thanks - Barry

The "compucruise" unit (sounds like what you have) was available with a
little black box for EFI use that totalled the injector open time to
calculate fuel flow. Worked real good.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 07:59:49 PDT
> From: "David Sagers" <dls2867@hotmail.com>
> Subject: TPI into a 86 4x4 Suburban.
>
> I'm in the process of doing a similar conversion, except mine is a '92.
>
> There is a lot of work to do, but many resources for the parts &
> information.
>
> How far along are you?  Have you decided to go with a MAF or a MAP system
or
> will you use what you can find?
>
> You might start with http://www.fuelinjection.com/   These guys specialize
> in complete conversions or just parts depending on what you want.  The
> complete kit from Fuel Injection Specialties is a whopping $2400!!  You
can
> save yourself some major dollars by
> just shopping around, in fact by watching the ads on:
>
> http://128.196.140.199/classifieds/search2.cfm?type=sale&which=part
>
> you can usually find complete TPI systems.  Before you buy many parts do
> some research and decide what you want or you could end up like me and
have
> lots of extra parts around that you won't be using.  For instance, with a
> 350 you probably don't want to buy the huge 58mm or 1000 cfm throttle
body,
> stay with the smaller version and driveability will be a lot better.  Also
> consider that many of the  "speed parts or the week" are made for high
> revving IROCs and Z28s, a 4x4 is a different story.
>
> Read all the info at the Fuel Injection Specialties web site.  They can
even
> help you figure out which cable you'll need for the tranny, throttle and
> cruise control.  I've called them a couple of times and they are good to
> talk to on the phone.
>
> Here are a few items I learned along the way.  The center head to manifold
> bolt angle changed in about '87.  If you use older heads with a TPI
intake,
> the bolt holes in the intake will need to be elongated, since you engine
is
> already built just plan on this modification.
>
> The injectors give a better spray pattern if run at fuel pressures
somewhat
> above the factory settings, try 50 to 55 vs.  the factory setting of 45.
> For a 350 start out with the 22 lbs injectors and bump the fuel pressure.
>
> On my '92 I have to change the mounting brackets for the A/C for the TPI,
> Fuel Injection Specialties can tell you what you need for your
application.
>
> Filter your fuel with a good high pressure filter made for the higher
> pressures in an TPI.  DO NOT use a filter made for a carbureted system or
a
> TBI system!!  They can burst and create a deadly fire.
>
> Don't fight with the factory wiring harness, buy one from Painless Wiring,
> see their web page at:  http://www.painlesswiring.com/    This harness
> connects everything from the VSS, to the tranny lockup, to the fuel pump
> relays, etc...   Again, read everything on the web site, but when it comes
> time to buy the harness, buy it from Summit, you'll save a couple of
hundred
> dollars.  Painless even recommends that you buy from one of their dealers
> instead of buying from them.  Once you own the Painless harness they have
> very good tech support.
> But before you buy make sure you know which type of system you are going
to
> use.
>
> I don't mind continuing this conversation on line, in fact maybe it'll
> revive this board.  However, if you want to you can contact me off line.
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #435
> *****************************
>
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>
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>
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>
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>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul 27 19:17:16 1999
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Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 19:16:09 EDT
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #435
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<< Could you get *any* sort of accuracy calculating from rpm, bpw & throttle 
opening?  Maybe 2 flowmeters, one on supply rail, one on return line, 
subtract out from in? >>


If the FI pump is external, you could run the flow meter between the tank 
pickup and pump and route the return to in input of the pump.  Any return 
fuel would be sucked up by the pump.

My 2¢

Mike

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Subject: Some efi: carby/super charger setup
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Hi all,

With the list in digest mode it seems the mail has really slowed down.  Anyway,
I'd appreciate if someone has a solution for this minor inconvenience.  I have
finally managed to get my Fiat 850, with the MR2 supercharger on it, running.
Currently its using the original carby in a blow through configuration (the
setup is crap, but will have to do for the time being).  With the whole carby
being pressurised there is enough fuel pressure in the electric pump to make the
car idle, however I'm sure as the pressure builds up the fuel pump runs out of
steam.  What is the solution?

Do you use a high pressure efi pump with a 0.5bar regulator, vacuum/boost
compensated to the inlet manifold, so the fuel pressure is always 0.5bar above
boost level ?

What about the float.  The carby currently uses a soldered brass float, will it
be strong enough to withstand say 20psi of boost ? Or will I  need to fill it
with something non collapsable ?

What about the needle and seat, will there be any problems here ?

Might sound logical, but I'm a bit out of my depths here and so appreciate any
answers, on list or off list.

Dan  dzorde@erggroup.com



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jul 27 23:37:52 1999
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@oh.verio.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <199907271900.PAA14409@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #435
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Connect to an injector and add up the "on time" to get fuel flow.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
>
> I owned a Dodge Omni, early '80s carb version, which had an aftermarket
trip computer installed.  It'd give you MPG, time to empty, miles & time to
destination, etc.  Info needed by it was wheel rpm, time & fuel flow.
Flowmeter on fuel line to carb gave it that info.
>
> Question:  are there any units available for FI engines, where a fuel
flowmeter wouldn't be of much use?  Could you get *any* sort of accuracy
calculating from rpm, bpw & throttle opening?  Maybe 2 flowmeters, one on
supply rail, one on return line, subtract out from in?
>
> Any thoughts from anyone?
>
> Thanks - Barry



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul 28 02:34:38 1999
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From: "Mike" <Itsmike@lvcm.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Tpi on a Suburban
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 23:35:45 -0700
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Just to join in im doing a tpi swap too. Ive got a 88 350 tpi going into a
72 chevy P/u. My application is a little different since i wont be 4weeling
a lowered truck :). I'm going with
350 flattop
world sportsman heads
tpis bigmouth intake
slp simeese runners
lt4 hot cam
1.6 roller rockers
24# injectors (ford svo injectors only $200 instead of $400 for chevy)

I still need a external fuel pump and a 52mm tb(maybe 58mm). I have a
complete harness from the 88 camaro, looks real simple to install so ithink
im going to go with it. Im also going with a s10 converter and a 91 700r4
tranny.

Mike






From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul 28 06:47:16 1999
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From: "Charles  Brooks" <cbrooks1@mail.tqci.net>
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #436
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Hi Dan, I'm nearly certain that the Float will have to be replaced or modified so id doesn't crush under boost. I'm slowly putting parts together for a twin turbocharged small block Chevy (And I'm selling a complete single turbo system for a SBC to finance the TT project, if anyones interested contact me off list) and one gentleman I ran into showed me a float from a 2bbl Holley that was on his Turbo Ford 2.3, the float looked like someone had stuck a straw in it and sucked REALLY hard :)

You do have to reference the regulator off of boost however, if you run more boost than the pump itself can handle...  The home grown turbo projects I've seen have been on V8's and used a mechanical pump that was modified to accept a manifold pressure reference. The Holley Mech. pumps are easily disassembled for the mods. I'm not sure if you could use a high pressure EFI pump with a low pressure regulator or not. If you do, make sure the regulator is a 3 port (Or more) design that has a bypass for fuel to return to the tank. That way the fuel flow will cool the EFI pump, if you use a "Deadhead" regulator with no bypass the pump will probably overheat and be damaged.

I'll take a look at some of my parts books and see if I can find a regulator that looks like it'll work. How much boost are you thinking of running?

Charles Brooks


---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu (DIY_EFI Digest)
Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 05:00:01 -0400

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 09:33:29 +0800
From: dzorde@erggroup.com
Subject: Some efi: carby/super charger setup

Hi all,

With the list in digest mode it seems the mail has really slowed down.  Anyway,
I'd appreciate if someone has a solution for this minor inconvenience.  I have
finally managed to get my Fiat 850, with the MR2 supercharger on it, running.
Currently its using the original carby in a blow through configuration (the
setup is crap, but will have to do for the time being).  With the whole carby
being pressurised there is enough fuel pressure in the electric pump to make the
car idle, however I'm sure as the pressure builds up the fuel pump runs out of
steam.  What is the solution?

Do you use a high pressure efi pump with a 0.5bar regulator, vacuum/boost
compensated to the inlet manifold, so the fuel pressure is always 0.5bar above
boost level ?

What about the float.  The carby currently uses a soldered brass float, will it
be strong enough to withstand say 20psi of boost ? Or will I  need to fill it
with something non collapsable ?

What about the needle and seat, will there be any problems here ?

Might sound logical, but I'm a bit out of my depths here and so appreciate any
answers, on list or off list.

Dan  dzorde@erggroup.com



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul 28 12:55:01 1999
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To Pat and all,

This article was in Circuit Cellar #98 (Sept. 98)
but I must caution anyone interested in this system:

The article from Oztechnics is an "infomercial" !

Contrary to what the article says, the guy refuses 
to release the microprocessor code (source or object). 
Instead of honoring the build-it-yourself spirit of the 
magazine, he wants to sell it to you. I contacted him 
twice and now Circuit Cellar magazine are on his case 
(they were fooled by a 2.5 MB ZIP file that he sent 
them and contained no article code). Tsk, tsk, tsk!

Just my $0.02 cents!                   Benoit R.

>Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 15:59:39 -0400 (EDT)
>From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
>Subject: Re: Trip computer?
>
>a few months ago circuit cellar ink ( a magazine)
>had just that kind of beasty try
>
>http://www.oztechnics.com.au/frame_car.htm
>
>this beast keeps track of your injector on time

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul 28 14:45:26 1999
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From: "Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Cc: "'dzorde@erggroup.com'" <dzorde@erggroup.com>
Subject: RE: Some efi: carby/super charger setup
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 11:44:33 -0700
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> With the list in digest mode it seems the mail has really slowed down.
> Anyway,
> I'd appreciate if someone has a solution for this minor inconvenience.  I
> have
> finally managed to get my Fiat 850, with the MR2 supercharger on it,
> running.
> Currently its using the original carby in a blow through configuration
> (the
> setup is crap, but will have to do for the time being).  With the whole
> carby
> being pressurised there is enough fuel pressure in the electric pump to
> make the
> car idle, however I'm sure as the pressure builds up the fuel pump runs
> out of
> steam.  What is the solution?
> 
> Do you use a high pressure efi pump with a 0.5bar regulator, vacuum/boost
> compensated to the inlet manifold, so the fuel pressure is always 0.5bar
> above
> boost level ?
> 
> What about the float.  The carby currently uses a soldered brass float,
> will it
> be strong enough to withstand say 20psi of boost ? Or will I  need to fill
> it
> with something non collapsable ?
> 
> What about the needle and seat, will there be any problems here ?
> 
... by no means would I consider myself to be an expert on carburetted
systems ... but there is one issue that seems quite apparent to me.  The
float bowl of the carb is running in atmospheric pressure, so as you
increase carb inlet pressure above atmospheric it sure seems to me that
you're going to start pushing fuel (& even air) back into the bowl.  I don't
know how you're going to be able to work around this pretty fundamental
issue.  The carb is trying to meter fuel using Bernoulli's principle, so
pressurizing the bowl would probably cause other problems.  

I wouldn't worry about the float collapsing under pressure, but it might
tend to sink a bit lower in the fuel when the bowl is pressurized.  You
would also need to have a fuel pump that was capable of overcoming the
pressure in the bowl as well ...

The simplest solution I can come up with would be to replace the carb with
some sort of TBI unit ... but I don't have any suggestions as to the best
source of such a system for a blown Fiat ...

I know Smokey Yunick had a system where he put a turbocharger in front of a
carb way back in the early 70s.  He may have had a specially made carb
though ... I know he had some funny name for it ... what was it ...
"homogenizer" ????  You may want to check back through Popular Mechanics ...


HTH!
Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul 28 17:30:47 1999
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Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 17:29:56 EDT
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #436
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 10:39:10 -0400
> From: Barry Tisdale <btisdale@cybersol.com>
> Subject: Trip computer?
>
> I owned a Dodge Omni, early '80s carb version, which had an aftermarket
trip computer installed.  It'd give you MPG, time to empty, miles & time to
destination, etc.  Info needed by it was wheel rpm, time & fuel flow.
Flowmeter on fuel line to carb gave it that info.
>
> Question:  are there any units available for FI engines, where a fuel
flowmeter wouldn't be of much use?  Could you get *any* sort of accuracy
calculating from rpm, bpw & throttle opening?  Maybe 2 flowmeters, one on
supply rail, one on return line, subtract out from in?
>
> Any thoughts from anyone?
>

> Thanks - Barry

The "compucruise" unit (sounds like what you have) was available with a
little black box for EFI use that totalled the injector open time to
calculate fuel flow. Worked real good.
>


I have a brand new "compucruise kit" in a box.  I asked on the list about it 
and one fellow said he had the conversion kit to make it for efi,  ck the 
archives

Al

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul 28 18:34:07 1999
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To: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Al Lipper <efi@cardozo.org>
Subject: Re: ecu7 boards
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I've been away for several weeks, and have been trying to get a cheaper
price on the boards (it's now over $100 each).  I'll get back to my search
this week I expect.  I do have some ECU6 boards left if you want one.  They
cost $37US plus shipping.  Just let me know if you's like one and I'd be
happy to get it out to you.

				Al


At 03:58 PM 7/22/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi There;
> Have you got a price on the pcb's yet? if not do you still have any ecu6
>boards
>
>thanks
>--
>Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
>QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
>(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews          
>(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8
>


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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@oh.verio.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <199907281900.PAA31616@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #437
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 17:05:34 -0400
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The biggest problem with pressurizing a carb is the carb cannot compensate
for increased air density and will go way lean as boost goes up.  You can
fool it by closing way down on the air correction jets so the carb goes way
rich at high air flow but than you have two wrong things trying to cancel
each other out.  It usually doesn't work well, but it can work.  It goes
without saying that everything in the carb has to reference boost, fuel
pressure, float bowl, air jets and including the throttle shafts.  You must
seal or pressurize the throttle shafts otherwise fuel will leak out under
boost.

Carbs behave better when used as draw through but that introduces a
different set of problems.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>

>
> Hi all,
>
> With the list in digest mode it seems the mail has really slowed down.
Anyway,
> I'd appreciate if someone has a solution for this minor inconvenience.  I
have
> finally managed to get my Fiat 850, with the MR2 supercharger on it,
running.
> Currently its using the original carby in a blow through configuration
(the
> setup is crap, but will have to do for the time being).  With the whole
carby
> being pressurised there is enough fuel pressure in the electric pump to
make the
> car idle, however I'm sure as the pressure builds up the fuel pump runs
out of
> steam.  What is the solution?
>



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul 28 20:33:05 1999
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Steve Buchholz wrote:
> 
> I know Smokey Yunick had a system where he put a turbocharger in front of a
> carb way back in the early 70s.  He may have had a specially made carb
> though ... I know he had some funny name for it ... what was it ...
> "homogenizer" ????  You may want to check back through Popular Mechanics ...
> 
> HTH!
> Steve Buchholz
> San Jose, CA (USA)
This was a completely different beast!  The homogenizer was designed
for incredible fuel mileage.  Smokey was battling pressures caused by
expansion of heated fuel, an engineer's version of the Pogue
carburetor.
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jul 28 20:53:08 1999
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Subject: Re: #437 Carby / supercharger
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I've seen the crushed floats as well, although they were the plastic variety,
this one is brass so I think it should be OK.  According to all calculations
there should be around 16-18psi boost (if the s/c can sustain it).  I was
thinking of a 3 port regulator but don't know if they come in anything as low as
6-8psi for a carby.  Actually talked to a guy last night who told me that there
is a mechanical pump available, that drives of the crank belt so that pressure
increases as revs increases.

I will be efi'ing the car if the set-up works.  At the moment I don't know if
it'll work and so I don't want to spend money and time trying to get an efi
system going until I have proven that the engine will last and it can generate
enough power to make the car competitive.

I still haven't quite comprehended the carby thing yet, but pressurising the
whole setup does seem to work till boost exceed fuel pressure at which stage it
obviously runs out of fuel.  As for a tbi unit, I'm sure I could make a system
of a small Jap car work.

Thanks for the effort up to this stage.

Dan  dzorde@erggroup.com

<Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 06:45:42 -0400
<from: "Charles  Brooks" <cbrooks1@mail.tqci.net>
<Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #436
<
<Hi Dan, I'm nearly certain that the Float will have to be replaced or modified
so id doesn't crush <under boost. I'm slowly putting parts together for a twin
turbocharged small block Chevy (And I'm <selling a complete single turbo system
for a SBC to finance the TT project, if anyones interested <contact me off list)
and one gentleman I ran into showed me a float from a 2bbl Holley that was on
his <Turbo Ford 2.3, the float looked like someone had stuck a straw in it and
sucked REALLY hard :)
<
<You do have to reference the regulator off of boost however, if you run more
boost than the pump itself <can handle...  The home grown turbo projects I've
seen have been on V8's and used a mechanical pump <that was modified to accept a
manifold pressure reference. The Holley Mech. pumps are easily <disassembled for
the mods. I'm not sure if you could use a high pressure EFI pump with a low
pressure <regulator or not. If you do, make sure the regulator is a 3 port (Or
more) design that has a bypass for <fuel to return to the tank. That way the
fuel flow will cool the EFI pump, if you use a "Deadhead" <regulator with no
bypass the pump will probably overheat and be damaged.
<
<I'll take a look at some of my parts books and see if I can find a regulator
that looks like it'll <work. How much boost are you thinking of running?
<
<Charles Brooks
<
<------------------------------
<Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 11:44:33 -0700
<From: "Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com>
<Subject: RE: Some efi: carby/super charger setup
<
<... by no means would I consider myself to be an expert on carburetted
<systems ... but there is one issue that seems quite apparent to me.  The
<float bowl of the carb is running in atmospheric pressure, so as you
<increase carb inlet pressure above atmospheric it sure seems to me that
<you're going to start pushing fuel (& even air) back into the bowl.  I don't
<know how you're going to be able to work around this pretty fundamental
<issue.  The carb is trying to meter fuel using Bernoulli's principle, so
<pressurizing the bowl would probably cause other problems.
<
<I wouldn't worry about the float collapsing under pressure, but it might
<tend to sink a bit lower in the fuel when the bowl is pressurized.  You
<would also need to have a fuel pump that was capable of overcoming the
<pressure in the bowl as well ...
<
<The simplest solution I can come up with would be to replace the carb with
<some sort of TBI unit ... but I don't have any suggestions as to the best
<source of such a system for a blown Fiat ...
<
<I know Smokey Yunick had a system where he put a turbocharger in front of a
<carb way back in the early 70s.  He may have had a specially made carb
<though ... I know he had some funny name for it ... what was it ...
<"homogenizer" ????  You may want to check back through Popular Mechanics ...





From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul 29 00:38:05 1999
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Hi all,

Have another favour to ask from a friean in the Fiat club.  Has anyone found a
commercially available sensor that will replace the Haltech air temp sensor.
This is the temp curve required:

100C -> 185 ohm
> 70C -> 450 ohm
> 38C -> 1,800 ohm
> 20C -> 3,400 ohm
> 4C -> 7,500 ohm
> -7C -> 13,500 ohm
> -18C -> 25,000 ohm
> -40C -> 100,700 ohm

I would have thought Haltech would use something commercially available, VDO
sensor, Bosch sensor, nippon denso sensor ?

Dan  dzorde@erggroup.com



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul 29 07:21:47 1999
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Hi Dan;

The sensor from my Haltech F3 is an LM335.  The stock sensor wasn't reading accurately enough for me.  I
picked up a replacement 335 but went with the options for higher accuracy, wider temp range, and metal
case. (I don't remember exactly what that part number was).  The most direct heat path for these things is
along the wire leads.  The metal case unit was supposed to minimize that problem.  I mounted it inside a
piece of threaded nylon with the case exposed out the end.  This will minimize conduction from the
manifold.

Haltech didn't run any compensation with 335.  I added a trim pot and calibrated the sensor.





> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 12:06:25 +0800
> From: dzorde@erggroup.com
> Subject: Haltech temp sensor
>
> Hi all,
>
> Have another favour to ask from a friean in the Fiat club.  Has anyone found a
> commercially available sensor that will replace the Haltech air temp sensor.
> This is the temp curve required:
>
> 100C -> 185 ohm
> > 70C -> 450 ohm
> > 38C -> 1,800 ohm
> > 20C -> 3,400 ohm
> > 4C -> 7,500 ohm
> > -7C -> 13,500 ohm
> > -18C -> 25,000 ohm
> > -40C -> 100,700 ohm
>
> I would have thought Haltech would use something commercially available, VDO
> sensor, Bosch sensor, nippon denso sensor ?
>
> Dan  dzorde@erggroup.com
>
> ------------------------------

--
Rob
MailTo:Rx7Rob@ibm.net



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul 29 07:33:57 1999
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<... by no means would I consider myself to be an expert on carburetted
<systems ... but there is one issue that seems quite apparent to me.  The
<float bowl of the carb is running in atmospheric pressure, so as you
<increase carb inlet pressure above atmospheric it sure seems to me that
<you're going to start pushing fuel (& even air) back into the bowl.  I don't
<know how you're going to be able to work around this pretty fundamental
<issue.  The carb is trying to meter fuel using Bernoulli's principle, so
<pressurizing the bowl would probably cause other problems.

	Just a mention.  Studebaker used blow through carbs on it's
supercharged V8s in the 50s and 60s.  The trick they used was to 
builda pressure box around the whole carb, avoiding the problem of
reduced fuel flow by pressurizing the bowl to boost pressure.  The metering
can then be kept consistant.
	They used a regular Carter AFB 4-bbl, no modifications other than the
pressure box.

	Bill

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Hi All,

I'm in the process of plumbing the fuel system for my Fiat FI conversion.  I ran across a term in the
archives I'm not familiar with concerning making steel fuel lines:  double flare.  Can someone explain
what a double flare is and how to do it?

Thanks in advance,

Bill Shaw


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>
>
>With the list in digest mode it seems the mail has really slowed down.
Anyway,
>I'd appreciate if someone has a solution for this minor inconvenience. I
have
>finally managed to get my Fiat 850, with the MR2 supercharger on it,
running.
>Currently its using the original carby in a blow through configuration (the
>setup is crap, but will have to do for the time being). With the whole
carby
>being pressurised there is enough fuel pressure in the electric pump to
make the
>car idle, however I'm sure as the pressure builds up the fuel pump runs out
of
>steam. What is the solution?
The problem here is as the boost builds it forces the fuel back in the tank.
If you raise the fuel pressure to a level where it will run the car during
full boost the carb will flood at low boost. What you need is a rising rate
regulator. The other problem, which may arise, is the fuel pump not being
able to have the mass flow needed or the pressure so you may need to gang
more than one pump. Also the brass float will indeed collapse
>
>Do you use a high pressure efi pump with a 0.5bar regulator, vacuum/boost
>compensated to the inlet manifold, so the fuel pressure is always 0.5bar
above
>boost level ?
>
>What about the float. The carby currently uses a soldered brass float, will
it
>be strong enough to withstand say 20psi of boost ? Or will I need to fill
it
>with something non collapsible ?
>
>What about the needle and seat, will there be any problems here ?
>
>Might sound logical, but I'm a bit out of my depths here and so appreciate
any



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul 29 10:47:16 1999
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From: "David Sagers" <dls2867@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Carby / supercharger
Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 07:46:44 PDT
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Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 08:51:16 +0800
From: dzorde@erggroup.com
Subject: Re: #437 Carby / supercharger

dzorde@erggroup.com wrote:

>I will be efi'ing the car if the set-up works.  At the moment I >don't know 
>if it'll work and so I don't want to spend money and time >trying to get an 
>efi system going until I have proven that the >engine will last and it can 
>generate enough power to make the car >competitive.

>I still haven't quite comprehended the carby thing yet, but >pressurising 
>the whole setup does seem to work till boost exceed >fuel pressure at which 
>stage it obviously runs out of fuel.  As for >a tbi unit, I'm sure I could 
>make a system of a small Jap car work.

>Thanks for the effort up to this stage.

Consider that at best carbs and s/c are barely compatible.  If you s/c and 
try to get everything dialed in with a carb you have a good chance of giving 
up in frustration or detonating an engine.

You can save yourself 1,000s of headaches and hours of frustration by 
installing a tunable aftermarket EFI system and completely forgetting the 
carb.  Buy a EFI system that is tunable and compatible with a s/c.  A couple 
come to mind such as the DFI and the TEC II.  Both are used successfully 
with turbos and superchargers.

There is also good news about the price of these units too,  Since the 
introduction of the Fel Pro EFI that does everything better and faster many 
serious racers are dumping the DFI and TEC II units as they step up to the 
Fel Pro ($2400).  Even the used units aren't cheap, but certainly less 
expensive than just a few years ago.  Recently I saw a used DFi system with 
the AIC and some other options for about $800, think that included injectors 
too.  Used TEC II are a little harder to find but they are out there.

I have in my library a book written by a guy in the South, describing a 
complete engine, turbo and DFI build up of a twin turbo SBC.  He even gives 
the setting for the DFI fuel and spark parameters.  Cost me about $60, but 
having all the parameters figured out is worth $60 many times over.

When looking at a TBI remember that there is a lot more aftermarket parts 
out there for the GM unit than any other brand, including the Japanese 
units.


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul 29 10:48:40 1999
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From: "Robert W. Hughes" <rwhughe@ev1.net>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, dzorde@erggroup.com
Subject: Re: Haltech temp sensor
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> Have another favour to ask from a friean in the Fiat club.  Has anyone found a
> commercially available sensor that will replace the Haltech air temp sensor.
> This is the temp curve required:
> 
> 100C -> 185 ohm
....
> > -40C -> 100,700 ohm
> 
> I would have thought Haltech would use something commercially available, VDO
> sensor, Bosch sensor, nippon denso sensor ?
This exactly matches the description of the GM MAT sensor and coolant
temp sensor in my 87 Fiero shop manual.
-- 
Robert W. Hughes (Bob)
BackYard Engineering
Houston, Texas
rwhughe@ev1.net

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Subject: double flares
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> Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 09:10:32 -0400
> From: Bill Shaw <bshaw@connix.com>
> Subject: FI Fuel Lines
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I'm in the process of plumbing the fuel system for my Fiat FI conversion.  I ran across a term in the
> archives I'm not familiar with concerning making steel fuel lines:  double flare.  Can someone explain
> what a double flare is and how to do it?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Bill Shaw
> 
> ------------------------------

Double flare is when the metal is folded down into the flare.  Think of
a single flare with a collar.  If you cut the tube down the length it
would look like this:


single flare
  \
   \_________
    _________
   /
  /

double flare   

  |\
   \\_______
     _______
   //
  |/

The metal flares out, then doubles over inside the flare.  The tool is
expensive, and it's fairly difficult to get right.  You create a
"bubble" at the end of the line with "tool A", then cave it in to make
the double flare with a regular flaring tool.  I've been buying
pre-flared tubing at Napa, and bending it as necessary.

--steve

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul 29 16:47:40 1999
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From: "Robert W. Hughes" <rwhughe@ev1.net>
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>         Just a mention.  Studebaker used blow through carbs on it's
> supercharged V8s in the 50s and 60s.  The trick they used was to 
> builda pressure box around the whole carb, avoiding the problem of
> reduced fuel flow by pressurizing the bowl to boost pressure.  The metering
> can then be kept consistant.
>         They used a regular Carter AFB 4-bbl, no modifications other than the
> pressure box.

Almost. If you look at the top of an ordinary mechanical fuel pump, you
will see a small hole in the cover. This is the pressure reference for
the pump. Studebaker added a line from here to the blower output so that
fuel pressure rose with boost. In case of a ruptured diaphragm in the
pump, this would cause the crankcase to be pumped full of gasoline.

-- 
Robert W. Hughes (Bob)
BackYard Engineering
Houston, Texas
rwhughe@ev1.net

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I have 2 computers that are for a BOSCH KE-
Jetronic system.  The numbers that I can find 
are 0-280-800-104(105)/811-906-264 and the other 
computer has 0-280-800-123/811-906-264-C.  I 
would like to know what cars they came out of 
and also pinouts/wiring schematics.  

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul 29 20:02:44 1999
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Bill Shaw writes:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I'm in the process of plumbing the fuel system for my Fiat FI conversion.  I ran across a term in the
> archives I'm not familiar with concerning making steel fuel lines:  double flare.  Can someone explain
> what a double flare is and how to do it?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Bill Shaw
> 
> ------------------------------
It's a two step process used to flare steel tubing for brake and fuel
lines.  The first step "folds" the end of the tubing back towards
itself, the second step finishes the "fold" and makes the actual
flare.
See here:
http://www.chevelles.com/tools/tl4.html.
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jul 29 20:34:28 1999
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> Have another favour to ask from a friean in the Fiat club.  Has anyone found a
> commercially available sensor that will replace the Haltech air temp sensor.
> This is the temp curve required:
>
> 100C -> 185 ohm
>
>This exactly matches the description of the GM MAT sensor and coolant
temp sensor in my 87 Fiero shop manual.

thanks to everyone that replied, it seems the match is a GM unit.  So far it
matches the 87 Fiero and 91 V6 syclone.

>    Just a mention.  Studebaker used blow through carbs on it's
>supercharged V8s in the 50s and 60s.  The trick they used was to
>builda pressure box around the whole carb, avoiding the problem of
>reduced fuel flow by pressurizing the bowl to boost pressure.  The metering
>can then be kept consistant.
>    They used a regular Carter AFB 4-bbl, no modifications other than the
>pressure box.
>
>    Bill

Again thanks to everyone that have replied (too many to answer back
individually), I can see I have a lot of work to do.
>
>
>I'm in the process of plumbing the fuel system for my Fiat FI conversion.  I
ran across a term in the
>archives I'm not familiar with concerning making steel fuel lines:  double
flare.  Can someone explain
>what a double flare is and how to do it?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Bill Shaw
Good to see someone else working on a Fiat.  Double flare is making the little
lump on the end of the fuel line.  A normal flare gives you a funnel shaped end,
a double flare brings the flared out part back in again to produce a little lump
(or ring) around the pipe.





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> I have 2 computers that are for a BOSCH KE-
> Jetronic system.  The numbers that I can find 
> are 0-280-800-104(105)/811-906-264 and the other 

Audi 4000, 1983 on.  This may be K-Jetronic,
the database was unclear.

> computer has 0-280-800-123/811-906-264-C.  I 

Audi 4000/80, 1983 on.  Seems like it was used on
the KX, JT and JN engines.  This part is superceded
by 811 906 264 D.

You'd have to buy the Audi 4000 manuals.
An expensive proposition.

The above are a few applications that I saw with
a quick look at an Audi parts database.  There are
probably more.

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul 30 07:11:20 1999
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From: "Alan Smith" <alansmith@btinternet.com>
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I am particularly interested in disassembling Bosch or Digifant ECU's. If
you have an EPROM reader I would appreciate copies of the Bosch EPROMS to
examine.

Does anyone know of a web site where I can download Bosch Eproms for
European Eproms e.g Motronic or Digifant ECU's. If not could anybody please
send me eprom dumps and I will create a site.

I am interested in writing tuning software for eventual free distribution
and user support but I need the eprom images, ECU circuit diagrams etc to
get the info first.

Does anyone have info about converting Bosch encoded chip types to the real
device numbers ?

All help, files appreciated.

Alan


-----Original Message-----
From: DIY_EFI Digest <DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
To: DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: 30 July 1999 11:10
Subject: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #440


>
>DIY_EFI Digest          Friday, July 30 1999          Volume 04 : Number
440
>
>
>
>In this issue:
>
> double flares
> Re: Supercharged carb set ups
> pinout/applications
> Re: FI Fuel Lines
> Re: carb s/c and Haltech temp sensor
> Re: pinout/applications
>
>See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the
>DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 15:15:03 -0500
>From: steve ravet <Steve.Ravet@arm.com>
>Subject: double flares
>
>> Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 09:10:32 -0400
>> From: Bill Shaw <bshaw@connix.com>
>> Subject: FI Fuel Lines
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I'm in the process of plumbing the fuel system for my Fiat FI conversion.
I ran across a term in the
>> archives I'm not familiar with concerning making steel fuel lines:
double flare.  Can someone explain
>> what a double flare is and how to do it?
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Bill Shaw
>>
>> ------------------------------
>
>Double flare is when the metal is folded down into the flare.  Think of
>a single flare with a collar.  If you cut the tube down the length it
>would look like this:
>
>
>single flare
>  \
>   \_________
>    _________
>   /
>  /
>
>double flare
>
>  |\
>   \\_______
>     _______
>   //
>  |/
>
>The metal flares out, then doubles over inside the flare.  The tool is
>expensive, and it's fairly difficult to get right.  You create a
>"bubble" at the end of the line with "tool A", then cave it in to make
>the double flare with a regular flaring tool.  I've been buying
>pre-flared tubing at Napa, and bending it as necessary.
>
>- --steve
>
>- --
>Steve Ravet
>steve.ravet@arm.com
>Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
>www.arm.com
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 15:47:33 -0500
>From: "Robert W. Hughes" <rwhughe@ev1.net>
>Subject: Re: Supercharged carb set ups
>
>>         Just a mention.  Studebaker used blow through carbs on it's
>> supercharged V8s in the 50s and 60s.  The trick they used was to
>> builda pressure box around the whole carb, avoiding the problem of
>> reduced fuel flow by pressurizing the bowl to boost pressure.  The
metering
>> can then be kept consistant.
>>         They used a regular Carter AFB 4-bbl, no modifications other than
the
>> pressure box.
>
>Almost. If you look at the top of an ordinary mechanical fuel pump, you
>will see a small hole in the cover. This is the pressure reference for
>the pump. Studebaker added a line from here to the blower output so that
>fuel pressure rose with boost. In case of a ruptured diaphragm in the
>pump, this would cause the crankcase to be pumped full of gasoline.
>
>- --
>Robert W. Hughes (Bob)
>BackYard Engineering
>Houston, Texas
>rwhughe@ev1.net
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1999 17:36:41 -0600
>From: cwagner@info2000.net
>Subject: pinout/applications
>
>I have 2 computers that are for a BOSCH KE-
>Jetronic system.  The numbers that I can find
>are 0-280-800-104(105)/811-906-264 and the other
>computer has 0-280-800-123/811-906-264-C.  I
>would like to know what cars they came out of
>and also pinouts/wiring schematics.
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 20:03:04 -0400
>From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
>Subject: Re: FI Fuel Lines
>
>Bill Shaw writes:
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I'm in the process of plumbing the fuel system for my Fiat FI conversion.
I ran across a term in the
>> archives I'm not familiar with concerning making steel fuel lines:
double flare.  Can someone explain
>> what a double flare is and how to do it?
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Bill Shaw
>>
>> ------------------------------
>It's a two step process used to flare steel tubing for brake and fuel
>lines.  The first step "folds" the end of the tubing back towards
>itself, the second step finishes the "fold" and makes the actual
>flare.
>See here:
>http://www.chevelles.com/tools/tl4.html.
>Shannen
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1999 08:33:04 +0800
>From: dzorde@erggroup.com
>Subject: Re: carb s/c and Haltech temp sensor
>
>> Have another favour to ask from a friean in the Fiat club.  Has anyone
found a
>> commercially available sensor that will replace the Haltech air temp
sensor.
>> This is the temp curve required:
>>
>> 100C -> 185 ohm
>>
>>This exactly matches the description of the GM MAT sensor and coolant
>temp sensor in my 87 Fiero shop manual.
>
>thanks to everyone that replied, it seems the match is a GM unit.  So far
it
>matches the 87 Fiero and 91 V6 syclone.
>
>>    Just a mention.  Studebaker used blow through carbs on it's
>>supercharged V8s in the 50s and 60s.  The trick they used was to
>>builda pressure box around the whole carb, avoiding the problem of
>>reduced fuel flow by pressurizing the bowl to boost pressure.  The
metering
>>can then be kept consistant.
>>    They used a regular Carter AFB 4-bbl, no modifications other than the
>>pressure box.
>>
>>    Bill
>
>Again thanks to everyone that have replied (too many to answer back
>individually), I can see I have a lot of work to do.
>>
>>
>>I'm in the process of plumbing the fuel system for my Fiat FI conversion.
I
>ran across a term in the
>>archives I'm not familiar with concerning making steel fuel lines:  double
>flare.  Can someone explain
>>what a double flare is and how to do it?
>>
>>Thanks in advance,
>>
>>Bill Shaw
>Good to see someone else working on a Fiat.  Double flare is making the
little
>lump on the end of the fuel line.  A normal flare gives you a funnel shaped
end,
>a double flare brings the flared out part back in again to produce a little
lump
>(or ring) around the pipe.
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 18:43:30 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Orin Eman <orin@wolfenet.com>
>Subject: Re: pinout/applications
>
>> I have 2 computers that are for a BOSCH KE-
>> Jetronic system.  The numbers that I can find
>> are 0-280-800-104(105)/811-906-264 and the other
>
>Audi 4000, 1983 on.  This may be K-Jetronic,
>the database was unclear.
>
>> computer has 0-280-800-123/811-906-264-C.  I
>
>Audi 4000/80, 1983 on.  Seems like it was used on
>the KX, JT and JN engines.  This part is superceded
>by 811 906 264 D.
>
>You'd have to buy the Audi 4000 manuals.
>An expensive proposition.
>
>The above are a few applications that I saw with
>a quick look at an Audi parts database.  There are
>probably more.
>
>Orin.
>
>------------------------------
>
>End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #440
>*****************************
>
>To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command:
>
>    subscribe diy_efi-digest
>
>in the body of a message to "Majordomo@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu".
>
>A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to
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>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul 30 10:05:08 1999
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #440
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Yes, the box is a good way to pressurize everything on the carb and yes the
fuel pump must reference pressure so fuel pressure remains a constant above
boost but the carb will still go lean as boost comes up because it cannot
compensate for the increased air density under boost.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>

> Subject: Re: Supercharged carb set ups
>
> >         Just a mention.  Studebaker used blow through carbs on it's
> > supercharged V8s in the 50s and 60s.  The trick they used was to
> > builda pressure box around the whole carb, avoiding the problem of
> > reduced fuel flow by pressurizing the bowl to boost pressure.  The
metering
> > can then be kept consistant.
> >         They used a regular Carter AFB 4-bbl, no modifications other
than the
> > pressure box.
>
> Almost. If you look at the top of an ordinary mechanical fuel pump, you
> will see a small hole in the cover. This is the pressure reference for
> the pump. Studebaker added a line from here to the blower output so that
> fuel pressure rose with boost. In case of a ruptured diaphragm in the
> pump, this would cause the crankcase to be pumped full of gasoline.
>
> - --
> Robert W. Hughes (Bob)
> BackYard Engineering
> Houston, Texas
> rwhughe@ev1.net



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul 30 13:37:41 1999
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From: "Bob Huish " <rhuish@goldrush.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #437
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On 28 Jul 99, at 15:00, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 11:44:33 -0700
> From: "Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com>
> Subject: RE: Some efi: carby/super charger setup
> 
> > With the list in digest mode it seems the mail has really slowed down.
> > Anyway, I'd appreciate if someone has a solution for this minor
> > inconvenience.  I have finally managed to get my Fiat 850, with the MR2
> > supercharger on it, running. Currently its using the original carby in a
> > blow through configuration (the setup is crap, but will have to do for
> > the time being).  With the whole carby being pressurised there is enough
> > fuel pressure in the electric pump to make the car idle, however I'm
> > sure as the pressure builds up the fuel pump runs out of steam.  What is
> > the solution?
> > 
> > Do you use a high pressure efi pump with a 0.5bar regulator,
> > vacuum/boost compensated to the inlet manifold, so the fuel pressure is
> > always 0.5bar above boost level ?
> > 
> > What about the float.  The carby currently uses a soldered brass float,
> > will it be strong enough to withstand say 20psi of boost ? Or will I 
> > need to fill it with something non collapsable ?
> > 
> > What about the needle and seat, will there be any problems here ?
> > 
> ... by no means would I consider myself to be an expert on carburetted
> systems ... but there is one issue that seems quite apparent to me.  The
> float bowl of the carb is running in atmospheric pressure, so as you
> increase carb inlet pressure above atmospheric it sure seems to me that
> you're going to start pushing fuel (& even air) back into the bowl.  I
> don't know how you're going to be able to work around this pretty
> fundamental issue.  The carb is trying to meter fuel using Bernoulli's
> principle, so pressurizing the bowl would probably cause other problems.  
> 
> I wouldn't worry about the float collapsing under pressure, but it might
> tend to sink a bit lower in the fuel when the bowl is pressurized.  You
> would also need to have a fuel pump that was capable of overcoming the
> pressure in the bowl as well ...
> 
> The simplest solution I can come up with would be to replace the carb with
> some sort of TBI unit ... but I don't have any suggestions as to the best
> source of such a system for a blown Fiat ...
> 
> I know Smokey Yunick had a system where he put a turbocharger in front of
> a carb way back in the early 70s.  He may have had a specially made carb
> though ... I know he had some funny name for it ... what was it ...
> "homogenizer" ????  You may want to check back through Popular Mechanics
> ...
> HTH!
> Steve Buchholz
> San Jose, CA (USA)
> 
Back in the dark ages (late 50's) we would box the carb and 
pressurize the whole unit, which fooled the carb into believing it 
was working @ atmospheric regardless of boost levels. Solved our 
float and gasket blowout problems. 

A line from the box to the pressure regulator aligned the fuel 
pressure to the boost levels. 


CudaBob [Cuda65}
Angels Camp, California
cudabob@workmail.com

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul 30 15:37:46 1999
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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #441
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1999 15:35:16 -0400
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Similar to different altitudes requiring jet changes?  That makes sense.
Hadn't thought about this point before.

> Yes, the box is a good way to pressurize everything on the carb and yes
> the
> fuel pump must reference pressure so fuel pressure remains a constant
> above
> boost but the carb will still go lean as boost comes up because it cannot
> compensate for the increased air density under boost.
> 
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jul 30 17:11:25 1999
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From: "Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com>
To: "'DIY-EFI'" <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Accidental reposting of DIY-EFI Digests
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1999 14:10:50 -0700
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One of the unfortunate side effects of the switch to having the list run in
digest mode and given that many people tend to quote an original post for
their reply is that entire copies of a DIY-EFI digest get reposted to the
digest.  

Please, when posting a reply to a DIY-EFI post, either cut and paste
pertinent text from the digest or create a new message.  Another
recommendation would be to alter the subject of your new message to reflect
the issue to which you are responding.  

I don't think this is a terrifically big deal, based on the low bandwidth of
the list currently, but I for one will appreciate your consideration!

Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jul 31 00:05:28 1999
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Subject: Nox challenges
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I have a 1999 Infinity QX4 that I'm trying to get a set of headers
emission legal (Smog Exempt) in California.  My first test failed
because of high Nox.  This is determined by a formula they come up with
that extends the results out to at least 50K at which point my Nox
exceeded that limit.  (It would pass a standard street smog test no
problem)  After some investigation I found an Infinity Service Bulletin
that suggested adding a ground wire from the intake manifold to the
righthand cylinder head.  Further diagnostics revealved a lazy or slow
O2 sensor at which time I replaced all four.  After this I had the
vehicle sniffed to verify any changes.  The Nox was down substantially.
At this time I set all the SRT's and drove approx. 50 miles to make sure
no DTC's popped up.  Off to the test lab again and failed again with
high Nox.  This vehilce has no mods done to it.  Factory ECU. The only
thing I can think of might cause this high Nox would be the design or
flow of the tube off the header to the EGR on the engine.  Any ideas????

JT



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jul 31 00:15:44 1999
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From: "Mike Pilkenton" <mpilkent@ptw.com>
To: "GM EFI" <gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        "4/6 Cyl. Performance" <DomesticPerformance@onelist.com>,
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Subject: VSS sending unit
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 1999 21:14:33 -0700
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Does anyone have an extra VSS sending unit that would fit in the GM T-5
trannies?  I need to convert an 87 cable T-5 to elctronic VSS.

Mike


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jul 31 10:27:20 1999
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Date: Sun, 01 Aug 1999 00:26:43 +1000
From: Phil Lamovie <injec@ains.net.au>
Organization: Injec Racing Developments
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #439
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Hi All,

Bill a sigle flare is the type you find on most gas sytems in the home.
The copper pipe is forced by a tool into a 90 degree cone. Appropriate
fitting behind the flare seals it to the nipple.

A double flare is really an extruded collar made by forcing a small section

of the pipe back on itself. Sort of an instant metal 'O' ring. Found mostly
with
automotive brake tubing and on most high pressure (80-90) psi Bosch type K
efi sytems.

They use different fittings. Don't mix them up.


 Regards

 Phil Lamovie

 injec@ains.net.au

     cogito ergo zoom




From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jul 31 14:54:24 1999
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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: From Cranking to Idle.
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 11:58:13 -0700
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Hi All,

I have a question to the folks out there who have 'rolled their own'
injection.

Given that injection at cranking needs to start sometime during the
intake stroke it's easy enough to program a timer from TDC to trip at a
certain point to open the injector.  A second timer set to go off after
that can turn off the injector.

Let's say at a cranking RPM of 200 an intake stroke takes about 150ms
and the injector pulse needs to be 5ms.  Best to inject somewhere in the
middle of the intake so set the ON timer to go off after 75ms and the
OFF timer to trip at 80ms.

So we begin the Suck Squish Pop Blow cycle  and at the first TDC of a
particular cylinder we hopefully squish a good mixture and Pop.

At this point,  things start to move rapidly.  ie:  Depending on the
mixture,  obviously the Pop cycle could be going a whole heck of a lot
faster than the cranking RPM based on the mass that needs to be
accelerated and the current moment of inertia of the pistons, crank,
flywheel (etc.) assembly.

If the engine accelerates up to 600 RPM in the pop stroke (50ms per
intake stroke) it may happen that injector that should open at the 75ms
point doesn't because BDC occurs at 50ms.  So a Timer for Injector ON
doesn't work;  during cranking.

If injection was started at TDC during cranking and the OFF timer is
used to turn off the injector 5ms later then this problem doesn't occur.
However,  at some RPM and fuel mixture point the injector will need to
be on longer than the intake stroke so now it cannot be turned on at
TDC.  It needs to be turned on sooner than the Intake Stroke TDC so the
timer has to be loaded at a different point.

And at even higher RPM the intake stroke may overlap and take as long as
540 degrees of crank rotation. (75% duty cycle so perfectly plausible).

So my question is how have other injection designers handled this?  How
is the high rate of acceleration that occurs while cranking the engine
handled.  My test bed is an electric motor turning the encoder wheel and
this accelerates much faster than the engine so I can simulate a
complete loss of injection pulses.

Thanks,

John




From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jul 31 17:47:21 1999
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From: "C. Brooks" <cbrooks1@tqci.net>
To: "DIY_EFI Mailing List" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: wide range pressure regulators
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 1999 17:43:36 -0400
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I don't remember who was looking for a regulator for the turbo carb
application but I looked through my parts catalogs and found a pressure
regulator with adjustability over a wide range. It's made by Russell, p/n
4532. It's a 2 port regulator adjustable between 3psi and 25psi.

Hope that helps,

Charles Brooks



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jul 31 22:54:25 1999
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #442
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My guess is that headers cool the exhaust causing the catalyst to run cooler
and less efficiently.  Try insulating them, but then you will need
stainless.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
>
> I have a 1999 Infinity QX4 that I'm trying to get a set of headers
> emission legal (Smog Exempt) in California.  My first test failed
> because of high Nox.  This is determined by a formula they come up with
> that extends the results out to at least 50K at which point my Nox
> exceeded that limit.  (It would pass a standard street smog test no
> problem)  After some investigation I found an Infinity Service Bulletin
> that suggested adding a ground wire from the intake manifold to the
> righthand cylinder head.  Further diagnostics revealved a lazy or slow
> O2 sensor at which time I replaced all four.  After this I had the
> vehicle sniffed to verify any changes.  The Nox was down substantially.
> At this time I set all the SRT's and drove approx. 50 miles to make sure
> no DTC's popped up.  Off to the test lab again and failed again with
> high Nox.  This vehilce has no mods done to it.  Factory ECU. The only
> thing I can think of might cause this high Nox would be the design or
> flow of the tube off the header to the EGR on the engine.  Any ideas????
>
> JT
>



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug  1 00:09:42 1999
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If this is a cold start test, a problem would be CAT light off.
The headers are loosing to much heat.  Use all methods to 
retain heat: ceramic coatings, wraps, paints etc.
90% of emmisions or in 1st 60 sec. of test.
Check your cats for damaged honeycomb.
Install some small precats at collectors.
Use catalyst's with more loading.
Get some electric CATS.
Install a engine heat recovery system.
Try to get a realtime exhaust gas trace to see were Nox is max.
During ARB test ask for a cold start modal analysis for precon, this 
is usally less $ than a bag reading.  If dilute Nox is over 30 ppm 
for more than 3 sec. the car will fail. When car warm it should be < 
1 ppm at cruise.   You can also get similiar data with any one who
has a Nox analyzer, or go to Az. where they do a IM240
or ship it to east coast and I will see what I can do.
Alex
EPA-CARB recog. lab manager. 
> 
> I have a 1999 Infinity QX4 that I'm trying to get a set of headers
> emission legal (Smog Exempt) in California.  My first test failed
> because of high Nox.  This is determined by a formula they come up with
> that extends the results out to at least 50K at which point my Nox
> exceeded that limit.  (It would pass a standard street smog test no
> problem)  After some investigation I found an Infinity Service Bulletin
> that suggested adding a ground wire from the intake manifold to the
> righthand cylinder head.  Further diagnostics revealved a lazy or slow
> O2 sensor at which time I replaced all four.  After this I had the
> vehicle sniffed to verify any changes.  The Nox was down substantially.
> At this time I set all the SRT's and drove approx. 50 miles to make sure
> no DTC's popped up.  Off to the test lab again and failed again with
> high Nox.  This vehilce has no mods done to it.  Factory ECU. The only
> thing I can think of might cause this high Nox would be the design or
> flow of the tube off the header to the EGR on the engine.  Any ideas????
> 


