From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  1 09:32:43 1999
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From: Gary Moulton <gmoabrim@lasal.net>
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Hi,
I have a 1994 Jeep, 4.0L engine with MOPAR's efi system. I would like to
electrically control the idle for a slower speed and be able to increase
the idle for winching or running my onboard air compressor. Back in my
GM repair days we had a tool that plugged between the IAC and its
harness with a switch that would step the idle up or down, can a
home-brew item like this be built for this type of efi system?
Thanks in advance
GaryM


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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #499
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Hello guys my name is David Hiatt and here's my question:
I'm looking to put a fuel injection system on a 190 c.u. Corvair engine built for an
airplane. Could I get some suggestions on where I might start my search for the right
(components or system). I'm looking for lightweight, very reliable, and fairly simple. The
engine will have a custom built intake system (six individual runners) I think a single
injector at the throttle body would be the cheapest and lightest with slightly less power
than six injectors (direct port).
Thoughts anyone???


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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Hello guys my name is David Hiatt and here's my question:</DIV>
<DIV>I'm looking to put a fuel injection system on a 190 c.u. Corvair =
engine=20
built for an airplane. Could I get some suggestions on where I might =
start my=20
search for the right (components or system). I'm looking for =
lightweight, very=20
reliable, and fairly simple. The engine will have a custom built intake =
system=20
(six individual runners) I think a single injector at the throttle body =
would be=20
the cheapest and lightest with slightly less power than six injectors =
(direct=20
port).</DIV>
<DIV><STRONG>Thoughts anyone???<BR></STRONG></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  1 13:48:24 1999
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David L. Hiatt
Auburn, Washington
98092


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<DIV><BR>David L. Hiatt<BR>Auburn, =
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  1 13:50:24 1999
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
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Hi Dave!
I have tryed to get some software to do the same....no luck yet.
Have been in contact with Delco and Mark Laubenstein who made the hardware
and Ron Gaskins who made the software .
They are wery helpful and I feel they dont like the secret filosofy .
Delco has the software you need Its called PC-CAL/PC-HUD.
All the marinizers has this program and about 4 persons in US including
Arizona speed and marine.You need to have an agreement with
GMPTG to get the software. The person to contact to get this is 
Rich Waggoner 
M/C 483 720 210
GM Powertrain 
777 Joslyn Aveny
Pontiac , MI 48340
They adviced to contact him on phone first : 248 857 2321.
Please keep me posted if you have better luck or find ant other software 
Espen Hilde 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  1 17:41:31 1999
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From: "Jon V." <jon@valesh.com>
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Nic wrote:

> >Actually, I liked a lot of the ideas presented. I think the motorcycle TB
> >assy is probably too small in the throat, but that was the idea I liked
> >best.
> 
> Think about it this way: If you strip a throttle body of a 1300 Suzuki bike
> that redlines at 12000rpm and mount it on a 2.5l engine that only does
> 6000rpm you are looking at the same flow rate.

Yeah, I was thinking about it two ways... assuming that my Internet
calculator skills are sufficient to the task, a 2L engine that redlines at
6.8-7.2K (about where mine does/would) needs ~23036 CFM to feed it. The
1300, 12KRPM motocycle engine would need ~26327 CFM (These numbers are
pulled from the net, and I didn't check the assumptions that went into
them... just CID, RPM, and (a high) 95%VE), which sounds like it
is a perfect fit and everything is WONDERFUL and I'm just wishing I could
figure out where I'm gonna find a Suzuki without an owner for long enough
to... um... anyway... I'm trying to find the parts...

That was way one, BUT...

That was assuming identical volumetric efficiencies, and I'm not sure that
is valid. The high-winding motocycle would gain more from an easy flow
path at the top end... but it would also be in some ways less likely to
have it, just because street riders are less likely to hit a 12K redline
regularly than I am to hit a 6.5-7K redline.... well... I don't *know*
that really... my ol'dad used to have a Honda with a redline way out in
the stratosphere... like 17K RPM... and he says he used the whole
range.... but then again it was a megaphoned 2-stroke racer when he got it
(stopped three times driving it home sort of thing) and that sort of
breaks most of the rules anyway.

>  I got a set of throttle
> bodies + injectors + FI pump for $40. And they are in mint condition.

See, now THAT is what I consider cheap. I've been trying to find that sort
of deal... I'll need to try harder. Where/how did you get that deal???

> Quick question: Why does most bikes use individual TB assemblies for
> each cylinder while most cars use a single TB? I know how much pain
> it is to keep the sync on a bike right, so what is the real gain?

I think it is the reason most motorcycles don't have 30Lbs flywheels...
they don't need a lot of low end torque, being as light as the are, but a
good top end helps a lot. The individual throttle plates are good for
better air flow (top end) but don't help with torque the way merged
airflow intake systems do. At least, that's what I've mungled my way
into believing... ya'might wanna check the reasoning before you go
quoting it at parties. The current pair of carbs on my engine would,
stock, go into a long flow intake system to get a good air flow going in
the mid RPM range. The previous owner torched that and I in my
infinitesimal wisdom torched what he did in favor of a pair of air filters
from a small ford turbo engine... the result is that I need to unbolt the
air filters to check the oil, but I have no appreciable intake resistance,
as documented by the fact that the old crankcase breather system which
used to attach between the air filter and the carbs and pull a respectable
if not all that impressive vacuum now pulls ZIP when attached to just one
of the carbs.

Most motorcycles seem to have one throat per cylinder one way or another.
My Yamaha 1100 has four 34MM carbs feeding it.

> I'm not sure which route to go with the bike. I can either make the
> Suzuki TB's fit (lots of pain) or simply make a manifold with injectors
> at the ports and a single TB at the intake of the surge tank. Will there
> be any real difference? 

> How about the difference between TBI and multipoint injection?

Multipoint sounds neater. Actually, TBI injection is really just a snazzy
digital way of making a carb that works.... 

> Does the fact that it is an Turbo affect the answers?

Good question! I don't know, but I would ignorantly guess that it makes 
all of the air flow issues for torque irrelevant. Whatever restrictions a
lack of throttle plates would add could be overcome by jumping the boost,
and whatever a long air pipe can do for assuring good air flow at low RPMs
the turbo will do better.


I don't know... but I *like* $40! I gotta find me a deal like that.


-Jon

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
This was the most unkindest cut of all.
                -- William Shakespeare, "Julius Caesar"





From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  1 19:11:42 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 19:09:56 -0400
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Subject: Repaired file (was Re: stepped-on..)
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I've repaired acsu0024 and put it on the FTP site.  Let me know how it
works.
Shannen

Brent Obermiller wrote:
> 
> Okay, yes I'm sorry I was going from memory... I did put 96h in place of the
> 00h in the last byte but the symptom is still there. Any ideas?
> -Brent
> 
> mailto:ober_b@sssnet.com
> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  1 21:25:05 1999
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From: "Bill the arcstarter" <arcstarter@hotmail.com>
To: mporter@zianet.com, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Stepper/servo motor control....
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 18:24:32 PDT
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"Michael D. Porter" <mporter@zianet.com> wrote:
>I have determined that I can do what I need with a circuit to control a 
>stepper or servo motor from a variable resistance. What I need is a
>motor/circuit combination which will provide an absolute position for a 
>given resistance. For reasons of cost, the cheapest means of input for 
>altitude is a barometric sensor for an L-Jetronic digital fuel injection 
>system--essentially, the input device is a sealed bellows with a strain 
>gauge inside.

Yes there is a very (sl)easy way to do this.  Buy a steering servo for an RC 
car or plane.  This contains the motor, feedback device, and all.  You have 
to feed it a pulsetrain (PWM).  The duty cycle determines the shaft 
position.

I'm thinking about doing the same for a buddy's diesel wabbit injection 
pump. ;)

This has been hacked to death in other electronics sites on the 'net.  Don 
Lancaster's for example.  Also look around the PIC lists and sites. If you 
need more help perhaps I can give it?

-Bill




______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  1 23:55:10 1999
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Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 23:57:02 -0400
From: Jeff Smith <bureau13@mediaone.net>
Organization: Gagging Sloth Records
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Hi,

A friend was showing me the ECU in his Ford Contour, and it appears to
have a connector on the back for something.  Anyone know what?  If you
take off the little connector, there is a card edge there, about 30 pins
or so, but I don't know what the pinout is, or what it is supposed to
do.  Anyone know?

jds

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  2 07:35:33 1999
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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 13:38:45 +0200
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Nic van der Walt <nvdw@cellpt.co.za>
Subject: Re: Lotus engines and bike TB's
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>>  I got a set of throttle
>> bodies + injectors + FI pump for $40. And they are in mint condition.
>
>See, now THAT is what I consider cheap. I've been trying to find that sort
>of deal... I'll need to try harder. Where/how did you get that deal???

I strolled into the local bike wrecker's shop and asked him: "What parts
have you got of EFI bikes?".

He canned himself and told me a long story that went like this: Once upon
a time EFI bikes became a fashion and every speedfreak yuppie bought 
himself one. Then they all ended up doing one of two things:
1) Crash the bike. 
2) Jump start the bike.
In the first instance it's easy to see how the nifty bits ended up in a 
box, but the second is interesting. Seems that most of those brainboxes
died easily when jumpstarting from a car.... The dealers couldn't replace
them and our enterprizing shopowner started importing aftermarket carbs 
for those bikes. He claims he exhanged 100's of EFI systems with carbs.
Anyway, all those EFI systems are lying in a pile at the back of his shop.

Moral: Try you local bike wreckers.

Regards,
Nic van der Walt

------------------------------------------------------------
 Cellpoint Systems SA               http://www.cellpt.co.za
 GSM Technology for Positioning and Telematics                
------------------------------------------------------------



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  2 09:20:53 1999
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> Yeah, I was thinking about it two ways... assuming that my
> Internet calculator skills are sufficient to the task, a 2L
> engine that redlines at 6.8-7.2K (about where mine does/would)
> needs ~23036 CFM to feed it. The 1300, 12KRPM motocycle engine
> would need ~26327 CFM (These numbers are pulled from the net,
> and I didn't check the assumptions that went into them
...
> That was assuming identical volumetric efficiencies, and
> I'm not sure that is valid.

On many of the large displacement sport bikes they now employ some form of ram-
air induction which may very likely throw your assumptions off about flow rates.

Colin Goodall
goodall@magmacom.com

P.S.
   This is my first posting to the mailing list so forgive
   me if I am out of line ;-)



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  2 09:54:32 1999
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A friend was showing me the ECU in his Ford Contour, and it appears to
have a connector on the back for something.  Anyone know what?  If you
take off the little connector, there is a card edge there, about 30 pins
or so, but I don't know what the pinout is, or what it is supposed to
do.  Anyone know?

jds


Just had a look at one of my reference books. It lists a 104 Pin connector
for the entire Contour range, nothing else. The pin chart also shows that
about 40 of the pins are unused which seems strange. If you can get the
numbers off the casing I'll check with one of my friends at the local Ford
dealership.

Neil

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  2 10:03:09 1999
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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 09:02:07 -0500
From: DC Smith <morepoweral@tetranet.net>
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Hi Gary,
 Back in my cable television days, I used a cruise control diaphram off
of a chrysler to pull the throttle open a little, when running the
bucket on my bucket truck. It was wired to trigger a vacuum solenoid
that controlled the cruise diaphram, whenever any of the bucket control
switches were activated. This was due to having an engine operated pump
running off of a V belt, and would speed the operation of the bucket,
upon demand. I could also bypass this for low speed operation in tight
quarters. I had this bucket really flyin when I wanted it to. :) 

> Date: Wed, 01 Sep 1999 07:33:14 -0600
> From: Gary Moulton <gmoabrim@lasal.net>
> Subject: Manual idle control
> 
> Hi,
> I have a 1994 Jeep, 4.0L engine with MOPAR's efi system. I would like to
> electrically control the idle for a slower speed and be able to increase
> the idle for winching or running my onboard air compressor. Back in my
> GM repair days we had a tool that plugged between the IAC and its
> harness with a switch that would step the idle up or down, can a
> home-brew item like this be built for this type of efi system?
> Thanks in advance
> GaryM
> 
> ------------------------------

***********************************************************************
Dan Smith      84 Regal   12.03@110.45     GSCA# 1459
St.Charles, Missouri 
mailto:morepoweral@tetranet.net               
http://www.tetranet.net/users/morepoweral
***********************************************************************

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  2 10:27:07 1999
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To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #501
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See the following responses:
Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
>
> Yeah, I was thinking about it two ways... assuming that my Internet
> calculator skills are sufficient to the task, a 2L engine that redlines at
> 6.8-7.2K (about where mine does/would) needs ~23036 CFM to feed it. The
> 1300, 12KRPM motocycle engine would need ~26327 CFM (These numbers are

I think those cfm numbers are off.  If you do the math, you will discover
that 140 cfm produces 100 hp.

> I think it is the reason most motorcycles don't have 30Lbs flywheels...
> they don't need a lot of low end torque, being as light as the are, but a
> good top end helps a lot. The individual throttle plates are good for
> better air flow (top end) but don't help with torque the way merged
> airflow intake systems do.

You can merge intake tubes with individual throttles as easily as a single
throttle body.  You gain response with individual throttles.

> > Does the fact that it is an Turbo affect the answers?
>
> Good question! I don't know, but I would ignorantly guess that it makes
> all of the air flow issues for torque irrelevant. Whatever restrictions a
> lack of throttle plates would add could be overcome by jumping the boost,
> and whatever a long air pipe can do for assuring good air flow at low RPMs
> the turbo will do better.

A turbo benefits from tuned low restriction flow just as much as a naturally
aspirated engine.  Making a turbo boost high then restricting the flow
causes extra backpressure in the exhaust and extra heat in the intake.

> A friend was showing me the ECU in his Ford Contour, and it appears to
> have a connector on the back for something.  Anyone know what?  If you
> take off the little connector, there is a card edge there, about 30 pins
> or so, but I don't know what the pinout is, or what it is supposed to
> do.  Anyone know?

I just read a Car & Driver article which tested aftermarket chips.  They
plugged the Contour chip into that edge.



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  2 10:35:57 1999
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Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 10:35:21 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: David Cooley <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Ford ECU connector?
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At 05:00 AM 9/2/1999 -0400, you wrote:

>Hi,
>
>A friend was showing me the ECU in his Ford Contour, and it appears to
>have a connector on the back for something.  Anyone know what?  If you
>take off the little connector, there is a card edge there, about 30 pins
>or so, but I don't know what the pinout is, or what it is supposed to
>do.  Anyone know?

Yep..
That is called the J3 connector or Service port.
It gives you direct access to the address/data bus.
Check out :  http://www2.austin.cc.tx.us/ESA/tc_eec.htm
They have links to EECSUCKA, a device you plug to the J3 port that reads 
the scrambled internal ford rom, and a J3 adapter.  All pinouts etc are there.
===========================================================
David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068
We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated!
===========================================================


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  2 11:08:41 1999
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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
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Subject: Engine CFM
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>Date: Wed, 1 Sep 1999 15:11:20 -0700 (PDT)
>From: "Jon V." <jon@valesh.com>
[snip]
>Yeah, I was thinking about it two ways... assuming that my Internet
>calculator skills are sufficient to the task, a 2L engine that redlines
at
>6.8-7.2K (about where mine does/would) needs ~23036 CFM to feed it. The
>1300, 12KRPM motocycle engine would need ~26327 CFM (These numbers are
>pulled from the net, and I didn't check the assumptions that went into
>them... just CID, RPM, and (a high) 95%VE), which sounds like it
>is a perfect fit and everything is WONDERFUL and I'm just wishing I
could
>figure out where I'm gonna find a Suzuki without an owner for long
enough
>to... um... anyway... I'm trying to find the parts...


Hi,

These are the types of assumptions that do need checking out, especially
if you are sizing injectors.  A 2L engine is about 121 cubic inches.
for every revolution it has two cylinders that do an intake stroke so it
requires 121 / 2  = 60.5 cubic inches of air per engine revolution.
This works out to 7200 RPM * 60.5 cubic inches per rev = 435600 cubic
inches per minute.  With 12^3 cubic inches in a cubic foot we divide
into the cubic inches per minute to get 435600/1728 = 252 CFM or 15,120
Cubic Feet per Hour.  Quite a different number from ~23036 CFM.

Now just work out how how much 15,120 Cubic Feet weighs and you should
get how many lbs of fuel required per hour at 100% duty cycle assuming
100% VE.

John





From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  2 22:37:40 1999
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To: <DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Cc: <jon@valvesh.com>
Subject: DIY_EFI digest V4 #501 / Lotus Engines / sizing of induction
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 10:37:13 +0800
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Jon V,

You must have miscalculated somewhere along the line. A small engine =
will never pull those big CFM numbers.

{Engine cu.in x rpm / 1728 (No. of cu. ins in a cubic foot)} x VE =3D =
CFM

Ugly engines, VE =3D 75%

Highly tuned racing engine (at point of max. torque) =3D 100+ % VE

Tuned runner street engine =3D who knows, it varies.

To convert cc to cubic inches (according to Commercial Hydraulics manual =
I just picked up) multiply by 0.06102.

Much can be learned about engine breathing from a file that can be =
downloaded at the following ftp site:- ftp://ftp.superflow.com.au The =
file is called Dynomation Zip. From this file, you can print the manual =
(Doc). The wealth of knowledge about engine breathing contained in the =
manual is exceptional.=20
You can try coming from the www.superflow.com.au direction. Stop off and =
visit Holden Racing Team. These cars use MoTeC ECU's. Another Australian =
ECU is the Autronic, but I have noticed that you guys call it something =
else. I think the US dealer must re-badge this race ECU. Haltech is =
another Australian ECU, but these are a long way off the mark when =
compared to Motec's logic, hardware, power and interface software. This =
is my own opinion of course.=20
=20
Totally different subject =20

A while back Motorola were putting out an eval. board for one of their =
Coldfire processors. It came with Integrated Systems C/C++ compiler, a =
communication card for the PC, a serial cable. The debug firmware =
provided debug / disassembly and everything that opens and shuts. It =
just seemed that such a tool might be a handy little number for what =
most are doing. We paid $130.00 AU ($85.00 US). To cut a long story =
short we ended up using another type of processor with a lot more grunt =
for about the same money as the Coldfire, but this eval. package was =
well worth the money. Anyone familiar with it?

I am interested in the different projects going on. This digest is a lot =
of work for someone at your end, I am not sure who? I am sure, that we =
at this end should all be most grateful for your efforts.=20

Regards,
Ken Thompson.
WhistleBlowers@bigpond.com







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<HTML><HEAD>
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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Jon V,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>You must have miscalculated somewhere =
along the=20
line.&nbsp;A small engine will never pull those big CFM =
numbers.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>{Engine cu.in x rpm / 1728 (No. of cu. =
ins in a=20
cubic foot)} x VE =3D CFM</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Ugly engines, VE =3D 75%</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Highly tuned racing engine (at point of =
max.=20
torque) =3D 100+ % VE</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Tuned runner street engine =3D who =
knows, it=20
varies.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>To convert cc to cubic inches =
(according to=20
Commercial Hydraulics manual I just picked up) multiply by =
0.06102.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Much can be learned about engine =
breathing from a=20
file that can be downloaded at the following ftp site:- <A=20
href=3D"ftp://ftp.superflow.com.au">ftp://ftp.superflow.com.au</A> The =
file is=20
called Dynomation Zip. From this file, you can print the manual (Doc). =
The=20
wealth of knowledge about engine breathing&nbsp;contained in the manual =
is=20
exceptional. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>You can try coming from the <A=20
href=3D"http://www.superflow.com.au">www.superflow.com.au</A> direction. =
Stop off=20
and visit Holden Racing Team.&nbsp;These cars use&nbsp;MoTeC ECU's. =
Another=20
Australian ECU is&nbsp;the Autronic, but I have noticed that you guys =
call it=20
something else. I think the US dealer must&nbsp;re-badge this race ECU. =
Haltech=20
is another Australian ECU, but these are a long way off the mark when =
compared=20
to Motec's logic, hardware,&nbsp;power and interface software. This is =
my own=20
opinion of course.&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><U>Totally different subject</U>&nbsp;=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>A while back Motorola were putting out =
an eval.=20
board for one of their Coldfire processors. It came with Integrated =
Systems=20
C/C++ compiler, a communication card for the PC, a serial cable. The =
debug=20
firmware provided debug / disassembly and everything that opens and =
shuts. It=20
just seemed that such a tool&nbsp;might be a handy little number for =
what most=20
are doing. We paid $130.00 AU ($85.00 US). To cut a long story short we =
ended up=20
using another type of processor with a lot more grunt for about the same =
money=20
as the Coldfire, but this eval. package was well worth the money. Anyone =

familiar with it?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am interested in the different =
projects going=20
on.&nbsp;This digest is a lot of work for someone at your end, I am not =
sure=20
who?&nbsp;I am sure, that we&nbsp;at this end should all be&nbsp;most =
grateful=20
for your efforts. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Regards,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Ken Thompson.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:WhistleBlowers@bigpond.com">WhistleBlowers@bigpond.com</A>=
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_002E_01BEF5F8.48DE1100--


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  3 02:51:11 1999
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Mercruiser 502 EFI  Software
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 08:49:26 +0200
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 Hi Dave!
 I have tryed to get some software to do the same....no luck yet.
 Have been in contact with Delco and Mark Laubenstein who made the hardware
 and Ron Gaskins who made the software .
 They are wery helpful and I feel they dont like the secret filosofy .
 Delco has the software you need Its called PC-CAL/PC-HUD.
 All the marinizers has this program and about 4 persons in US including
 Arizona speed and marine.You need to have an agreement with
 GMPTG to get the software. The person to contact to get this is 
 Rich Waggoner 
 M/C 483 720 210
 GM Powertrain 
 777 Joslyn Aveny
 Pontiac , MI 48340
 They adviced to contact him on phone first : 248 857 2321.
 Please keep me posted if you have better luck or find an other software 
 Espen Hilde 

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  3 05:01:22 1999
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From: "K V Jaeger" <WhistleBlowers@bigpond.com>
To: <DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Cc: <jon@valvesh.com>
Subject: Re: Correction/comments/V4 #501/Lotus/sizing
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 17:01:58 +0800
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Jon,

In amongst the fruit buns and iced coffee of morning tea, I neglected to =
mention one very important part to the CFM calculation. I stated the =
formula incorrectly. I was going to mention air requirements of 2 stroke =
and 4 stroke (or even Mazda Rotary), but got side tracked.
In the case of a 4 stroke engine, induction occurs on every other turn =
of the engine and will therefore pump half the air previously stated.=20
What is possible on the two stroke engine, is something else again. =
Orbital Engine Corporation of Western Australia have some good reading =
matter on two stroke breathing. www.orbeng.com.au I have not checked =
their site for some time. They also have a factory in Detroit, but I do =
not know about a US website.
=20
Sorry about the goose chase,
Regards,
K.T. =20

------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BEF62E.08BFAB20
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Jon,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>In amongst the fruit buns and iced =
coffee of=20
morning tea, I neglected to mention one very important part to the CFM=20
calculation. I stated the formula incorrectly. I was going to mention =
air=20
requirements of 2 stroke and 4 stroke (or even Mazda Rotary), but got =
side=20
tracked.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>In the case of a 4 stroke engine, =
induction occurs=20
on every other turn of the engine and will therefore pump half the air=20
previously stated.&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>What is possible on the two stroke =
engine, is=20
something else again. Orbital Engine Corporation of Western Australia =
have some=20
good reading&nbsp;matter on two stroke breathing. <A=20
href=3D"http://www.orbeng.com.au">www.orbeng.com.au</A> I have not =
checked their=20
site for some time. They also have a factory in Detroit, but I do not =
know about=20
a US website.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Sorry about the goose =
chase,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Regards,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>K.T.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BEF62E.08BFAB20--


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  3 06:37:43 1999
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From: "K V Jaeger" <WhistleBlowers@bigpond.com>
To: <DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Fw: Correction/comments/V4 #501/Lotus/sizing
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 17:15:58 +0800
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----- Original Message -----=20
From: K V Jaeger=20
To: DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu=20
Cc: jon@valvesh.com=20
Sent: Friday, September 03, 1999 5:01 PM
Subject: Re: Correction/comments/V4 #501/Lotus/sizing


Jon,

Your private e-mail does not seem to be working.

In amongst the fruit buns and iced coffee of morning tea, I neglected to =
mention one very important part to the CFM calculation. I stated the =
formula incorrectly. I was going to mention air requirements of 2 stroke =
and 4 stroke (or even Mazda Rotary), but got side tracked.
In the case of a 4 stroke engine, induction occurs on every other turn =
of the engine and will therefore pump half the air previously stated.=20
What is possible on the two stroke engine, is something else again. =
Orbital Engine Corporation of Western Australia have some good reading =
matter on two stroke breathing. www.orbeng.com.au I have not checked =
their site for some time. They also have a factory in Detroit, but I do =
not know about a US website.
=20
Sorry about the goose chase,
Regards,
K.T. =20

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----=20
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A=20
href=3D"mailto:WhistleBlowers@bigpond.com" =
title=3DWhistleBlowers@bigpond.com>K V=20
Jaeger</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A =
href=3D"mailto:DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu"=20
title=3DDIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.en=
g.ohio-state.edu</A>=20
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A href=3D"mailto:jon@valvesh.com"=20
title=3Djon@valvesh.com>jon@valvesh.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Friday, September 03, 1999 5:01 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: Correction/comments/V4 =
#501/Lotus/sizing</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Jon,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Your private e-mail does not seem to be =

working.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>In amongst the fruit buns and iced =
coffee of=20
morning tea, I neglected to mention one very important part to the CFM=20
calculation. I stated the formula incorrectly. I was going to mention =
air=20
requirements of 2 stroke and 4 stroke (or even Mazda Rotary), but got =
side=20
tracked.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>In the case of a 4 stroke engine, =
induction occurs=20
on every other turn of the engine and will therefore pump half the air=20
previously stated.&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>What is possible on the two stroke =
engine, is=20
something else again. Orbital Engine Corporation of Western Australia =
have some=20
good reading&nbsp;matter on two stroke breathing. <A=20
href=3D"http://www.orbeng.com.au">www.orbeng.com.au</A> I have not =
checked their=20
site for some time. They also have a factory in Detroit, but I do not =
know about=20
a US website.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Sorry about the goose =
chase,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Regards,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>K.T.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0035_01BEF62F.FD09DB50--


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  3 13:00:48 1999
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 13:00:01 EDT
Subject: ALDL OBDII linking for sensor values
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Hi

This is my first post. I have a project where I want to obtain sensor data 
directly to a microprocessor (PIC or Stamp). I want to get specific 
parameters: RPM, TPS,CTS,MAP/MAF, O2 maybe a few others and use that data to 
control some additional equipment I will add to the vehicle. I am adding and 
LPG system to my 1994 chevy p/u. With the flick of a switch I will be able to 
run on LPG or unleaded fuel. I thought this might be an easy way to get data 
through the diagnostic link to simplify the installation and wiring.

I am not really sure how to get started.

Here are some sites I have found that offer some info, but I need help seeing 
the big picture.

www.hit.net\~rah\disassnotes.html
www.isthq.com\~dan\aldl.htm
www.ag.auburn.edu\~gparmer\bookmark.htm
www.franken.de\users\dagobah\luke\scantool.html
http://www.obdii.com/obdii.html

Thanks

Jon



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  3 15:50:13 1999
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From: "Kurek, Larry" <lkurek@anl.gov>
To: "'Cl-F-Body'" <cl-f-body@f-body.org>,
        "'DIY EFI  Main List'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        "'F-Body Classic'"
	 <f-body-classic@bb-elec.com>,
        "'Fourth Gen'" <Fourth-gen@f-body.org>,
        "'Third Gen'" <third-gen@f-body.org>
Subject: Complete LT1 For Sale
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 14:50:42 -0500 
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Anyone interested in a complete LT1, sans Optispark? It is from a 96 and has
a wiring harness and PCM with it. I believe it has about 40K miles. FWIW,
this is a friend of a friend who has it, so I have not personally looked at
it yet. If anyone is interested (seriously) I will drive over and look at
it. He is asking $1800, but I think I can talk him down a bit :) 

If anyone IS interested, let me know. It is near Chicago, and I can deliver
it anywhere in Illinois, WI, IN, IA, MI (lower lower) or St Louis :) 

TTYL!

Larry

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  3 21:38:18 1999
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Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 20:39:08 -0500
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #503
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All Injector  Wizzards

We have just found some Bosch Blue top performance tuned fuel injectors
for the 350 Inch Chevy engines.
All units are flow matched in sets of 8 for $ 260.00 per set exchange.
Cores are $ 3.00 each if you wish to purchase them outright. Check out
the website at  www.lindertech.com

Jim Linder
the injector " guru "

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep  3 22:16:29 1999
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Date: Fri, 03 Sep 1999 19:23:55 -0700
To: "kv@us.ibm.com" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
From: Ross Corrigan <zxv@istar.ca>
Subject: new EFI fuel lines, what to use?
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We're plumbing new fuel lines on my dad's 240Z for his LT1 install.  His
car was not EFI OEM so we're changing the fuel tank likely as well.  I'm
wondering what material should be used for bending new fuel lines?  I'll
also be adding new fuel lines to my 280ZX which had EFI OEM but I'd like to
replace the lines w/ larger for better return and supply so I'll learn on
my dad's:-)  

As well any size reccomendations?  he's running the OEM '95 Lt1, 275 hp or
so, I'll be running anything from my current 300hp 327 to a 400hp 406 or
similar.

thanks  

(do we have to get a bender?  I've bent brake lines v. well using round
objects smartly....)

thanks

Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada 

 '80 327ZX   IZCC#255, Edmonton Z-car Club #44, British Columbia ZCR        
Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the
straights

mailto:zxv@istar.ca     *New ICQ # 11549358
http://home.iSTAR.ca/~zxv/index.shtml
http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg    where a
Z belongs

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep  4 01:51:15 1999
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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 01:50:34 EDT
Subject: Re: ALDL stuff
To: btisdale@cybersol.com, gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu,
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 Barry

Thanks for the help. I am mainly looking for TPS, MAP, O2, RPM, SPEED, BLM, 
INT.
I am not sure what or how  to  send for a request message to the serial port. 
I don't have a problem with the serial rs232 interface to a PIC.

Are there different interface modes ie slow or fast?

Is the data just sent in consecutive bytes and I filter the bytes I want or 
can I request the data I am looking for?

I think the 94 TBI truck does use the 8192 baud and sends 63 bytes. I am not 
sure what info is at each byte location. Can anyone help?

I have diacom PC interface. Is there a way to use that interface to determine 
the required request message and the type and order of data output from the 
ALDL?

Maybe I have asked too many questions, but I can tell I am getting close to 
figuring out how to accomplish this.

Thanks in advance

Jon


In a message dated 9/3/99 9:38:28 PM US Mountain Standard Time, 
btisdale@cybersol.com writes:

<< Jon -
 
 Got into reading the ALDL myself, for tuning purposes, on my 1991 GMC 
Syclone.  First, is to interface the CPU you're using to the data bus from 
the ALDL.  I think your 94 Chev probably uses the 8192 baud as does mine.  
Not sure what your PIC or Stamp is looking for voltage-wise, but my laptop 
needs standard RS232 protocol, like +/- 12v, converted from the ALDL's 0-5v.
 
 After you can read the idle string, (endless F0 55 BB, in my case), then 
sending a request message to the serial port, you can get the data you need.
 
 Let me know what exactly you're looking for & I'll see if I can help.  My 
prog's in QuickBasic and I've apparently still got some timing problems; 
occasional crashes/resets every few seconds to few minutes.  Still under 
development; but FUN!
 
 Barry >>

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep  4 14:26:53 1999
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Does any one know how to modify any of the KE-Jetronic 
computers, or at least have any idea what the adjustment resistors 
are for.  The computer in mind is from an 85 VW Quantum with the 
5 cylinder engine and I would like to use it in a four cylinder 
configuration.  The only problems I can see would be the idle speed 
and the fuel cut off at max rpm.  

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep  4 16:12:33 1999
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From: "Rich Mauruschat" <rsrich@cwcom.net>
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Subject: Re: Throttle plates for individual throttle injection
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-----Original Message-----
From: DIY_EFI Digest <DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
To: DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: 31 August 1999 11:20
Subject: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #497


OK Jon, I take your point - you don't want to be messing with carbs at that
sort of price!!
Here in the UK you can get a pair of rough carbs for next to nothing, 40mm
usually though.
Rich


>Date: Mon, 30 Aug 1999 17:49:21 -0700 (PDT)
>From: "Jon V." <jon@valesh.com>
>Subject: Re: Throttle plates for individual throttle injection
>
>If I could find a "cheap" set of Del'orto carbs and manifold, the last
>thing I would do is hack into them! Where I come from, a USED set of
>45MM  Del'ortos (the size recommended for this engine) with the right
>manifold for my engine cost over $900 US, Used and NOT rebuilt... Now,
>I'll admit that I didn't do MUCH looking, but I've got one company that
>would LOVE to sell me a pair of 45MM Del'ortos with manifold... for $1400
>US!
>
>So, either I want your bank account or I want your source for carbs...
>'cause AFAIK I could buy a whole damn car for the price of a set of those
>"cheap" carbs that you are talkin' about.
>- -Jon



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep  4 23:46:56 1999
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Date: Sat, 4 Sep 1999 23:46:18 EDT
Subject: ALDL data stream for 1994 5.7 TBI
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Hi

Does anyone know what ALDL data stream is for Chev p/u 1994 5.7 TBI?

 Some of the members of this list have been very helpful providing info for 
the 5.7 TPI (vin P). They suggested appeal to the list for this application.

I'd settle for a point in the right direction or some pointer on how I may be 
able to start with the TPI (vin P) data and decode the 5.7 TBI (K).

Thanks in advance


Jon

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  5 09:58:14 1999
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>>If I could find a "cheap" set of Del'orto carbs and manifold, the last
>>thing I would do is hack into them! Where I come from, a USED set of
>>45MM  Del'ortos (the size recommended for this engine) with the right
>>manifold for my engine cost over $900 US, Used and NOT rebuilt... Now,
>>I'll admit that I didn't do MUCH looking, but I've got one company that
>>would LOVE to sell me a pair of 45MM Del'ortos with manifold... for $1400
>>US!
>>

Another throw-away idea.
Use the butterfly part of a Q-jet carb. If you are un familiar with Q-jets,
the carb splits into 3 major sub assembley's.
The part with the butterflys is an aluminium plate about 6" X 6" and 1/2"
thick. Has a primary side of approx 40-50mm and a secondary side measured
in yards. Should be real easy to cut in half to give dual 40-50mm
butterflies with a centre of about 4", it has the added bonus of an air
idle adjustment already fitted.
The very best part is there are literally millions about and are either
free or real cheap.

Neil

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  6 05:01:15 1999
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From: "Alan Smith" <alansmith@btinternet.com>
To: "DIY-EFI" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Wanted - Corrado or Golf VR6 BIN
Date: Mon, 6 Sep 1999 10:01:45 +0100
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BEF84E.D3A50F20
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Does anyone have original BIN files for VR6 or Corrado or Golf ECU ?

Also, does anyone know how to get the fault codes from this ECU ?

Alan Smith

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BEF84E.D3A50F20
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Does anyone have original BIN files for VR6 or =
Corrado or Golf=20
ECU ?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Also, does anyone know how to get the fault codes =
from this=20
ECU ?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Alan Smith</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BEF84E.D3A50F20--


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  6 20:58:18 1999
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Date: Mon, 06 Sep 1999 20:57:48 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
Subject: cruise control actuator for throttle by wire?
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I saw a few days back where someone mentioned using a cruise control
actuator to adjust idle speed. This is probably way silly, but I
wondered if anyone has tried to use a cruise control actuator (and
a feedback system, etc) to make a throttle by wire system? I imagine
that the system would be too slow at least, and probably too inaccurate
to boot... but I'd be interested in hearing anyone's experiences with
any similar project.

   Thanks in advance,
   Chris C.


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  6 23:38:56 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Wanted - Corrado or Golf VR6 BIN
References: <199909061900.PAA23231@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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> 
> Does anyone have original BIN files for VR6 or Corrado or Golf ECU ?
> 
> Also, does anyone know how to get the fault codes from this ECU ?
> 
> Alan Smith
> 

I DO have a bunch of Electromotive TEC II bin files for a VR6 (including
turbo maps). 

I DON'T have Motronic VR6 bin files (and not many people do!).

The OBD I VR6 can "blink" out the fault codes using the check engine
light. All you need is a jumper wire to bridge the data connectors for a
couple seconds, and the codes will blink out. You should buy a Corrado
Bentley Manual for OBD I VR6 stuff, or get the lame Golf/Jetta Bentley
Manual for OBD II knowledge. BTW, you can't blink out OBD II codes like
you can OBD II. 

Now, what are you doing Alan? I have extensive experience with the VR6,
so I can offer advice.

Jason 
'93 SLC

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  7 10:19:51 1999
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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: cruise control actuator for throttle by wire?
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 07:20:02 -0700
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Hi,

I'm not at all sure if the cruise control actuator would be fast enough to
handle the idle speed but it's always worth a try.  The new SAABs are production
vehicles with Throttle by Wire.  What might also work quite well are Model
Airplane Servos.

Cheers,

John


>Subject: cruise control actuator for throttle by wire?
>
>I saw a few days back where someone mentioned using a cruise control
>actuator to adjust idle speed. This is probably way silly, but I
>wondered if anyone has tried to use a cruise control actuator (and
>a feedback system, etc) to make a throttle by wire system? I imagine
>that the system would be too slow at least, and probably too inaccurate
>to boot... but I'd be interested in hearing anyone's experiences with
>any similar project.
>
>   Thanks in advance,
>   Chris C.




From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  7 13:26:23 1999
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Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 13:26:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@snurgle.org>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Drive By Wire
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On Tue, 7 Sep 1999, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:

> I saw a few days back where someone mentioned using a cruise control
> actuator to adjust idle speed. This is probably way silly, but I
> wondered if anyone has tried to use a cruise control actuator (and
> a feedback system, etc) to make a throttle by wire system? I imagine

I've considered doing it.  But I decided not to because I can't really see
what advantage you would gain from it, unless you want to have a
semi-intelligent computer controlled throttle for some reason.  The reason
I wanted to do it would be to be able to have logging and assisted
heel-and-toe for track driving.  But you don't need that for logging and I
didn't think it was worth it otherwise.


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  7 19:01:33 1999
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Subject: Re: cruise control servo - fly by wire
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----- Original Message -----
From: DIY_EFI Digest <DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
To: <DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 1999 3:00 PM
Subject: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #511


>
> DIY_EFI Digest       Tuesday, September 7 1999       Volume 04 : Number
511
>
>
>
> In this issue:
>
> RE: cruise control actuator for throttle by wire?
> Drive By Wire
>
> See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the
> DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 07:20:02 -0700
> From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
> Subject: RE: cruise control actuator for throttle by wire?
>
I would think the electric cruise units might stand a chance - the vacuum,
definitely NOT.


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  7 23:10:54 1999
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Group, I made a 10 LED O2 display which worked fairly well but was hard
to read as I used assorted LEDs, etc. and it flashed a lot.  I built
another using an LCD display from a cheap meter (0-200 mv), a 9v power
supply (7809 chip etc.) and a 1/10 voltage divider (set of 1/4w
resistors). It works from a 12V power supply and a 1.5V battery -- reads
.1593 volts

It has 4 wires - sensor in, sensor ground, +12 and ground. I wired it to
my efi harness - replaced the LED display. I used a common ground (same
as the LED one). The meter displays 1 indicating the voltage is greater
than scale (> 2 volts).  My volt meter shows +14v (ok here) and .4-.7 v
on the O2 sensor (engine running).

What's wrong? I thought O2 sensors read 0-1V.  Is the meter too
sensitive? Am I getting feedback somewhere?  Do I need another ground?
HELP!!!   TIA.  Tom


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  7 23:18:47 1999
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #510
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stop sending this 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  8 09:37:38 1999
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Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 09:33:44 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "Peter D. Hipson" <mail@darkstar.mv.com>
Subject: O2 Sensor Voltage
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most of these digital meters must have an isolated power supply, that is
the common power supply lead cannot be connected to the common measured
voltage. 

At 05:00 AM 9/8/1999 -0400, you wrote:
------------------------------
>
>Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1999 22:12:46 -0500
>From: Tom Sharpe <twsharpe@mtco.com>
>Subject: O2 Sensor Voltage
>
>Group, I made a 10 LED O2 display which worked fairly well but was hard
>to read as I used assorted LEDs, etc. and it flashed a lot.  I built
>another using an LCD display from a cheap meter (0-200 mv), a 9v power
>supply (7809 chip etc.) and a 1/10 voltage divider (set of 1/4w
>resistors). It works from a 12V power supply and a 1.5V battery -- reads
>.1593 volts
>
>It has 4 wires - sensor in, sensor ground, +12 and ground. I wired it to
>my efi harness - replaced the LED display. I used a common ground (same
>as the LED one). The meter displays 1 indicating the voltage is greater
>than scale (> 2 volts).  My volt meter shows +14v (ok here) and .4-.7 v
>on the O2 sensor (engine running).
>
>What's wrong? I thought O2 sensors read 0-1V.  Is the meter too
>sensitive? Am I getting feedback somewhere?  Do I need another ground?
>HELP!!!   TIA.  Tom
>
>------------------------------

Thanks, 
        Peter Hipson (founder, NEHOG)
        1995 White NA Hummer Wagon

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  8 11:54:34 1999
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From: "Kurek, Larry" <lkurek@anl.gov>
To: "'Cl-F-Body'" <cl-f-body@f-body.org>,
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Subject: Bad news about Lambert Pontiac/GMC...Dal :(
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 10:54:51 -0500 
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Guys:

I hate to be the bearer of bad news here, but I just spoke with Dal and he
asked me to pass this info along to the lists I am on. Please forward to
others as appropriate.

It seems his dealership has had second thoughts on internet parts sales. For
whatever reason, they weren't making as much as they wanted to, so they are
shutting this off. Dal has said they will honor ALL pending requests/orders
that are in the works, and will still take performance parts orders (to
clear inventory). However, all other requests for "general" parts are out :(

Dal has indicated that he will send a message out later with more
details...so please don't swamp him with questions on this.

All I can say is I wish Dal the best in whatever comes for him...he was a
great guy and really helped a lot of us, myself included, a lot. 

TTYL!

Larry 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  8 12:22:15 1999
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Does anybody know where the web site is that had disasembled 
proms for GM?  All I remember is taht it was at 
www.geocities.com/motorcity/shop.  

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  8 14:50:16 1999
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From: "Crabtree, Tony" <Tony.Crabtree@COMPAQ.com>
To: "'fourth-gen@f-body.org'" <fourth-gen@f-body.org>,
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Subject: RE: [4] Bad news about Lambert Pontiac/GMC...Dal :(
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 13:50:07 -0500 
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Wopnder if Banks Chevy in New Jersey will still do what Dal used to do?

1 800 447-2107

Ask for Chris McCabe...  He was giving free shipping and the usual 10% over
cost deal on most parts...  

-----Original Message-----
From: Kurek, Larry [mailto:lkurek@anl.gov]
Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 10:55 AM
To: 'Cl-F-Body'; 'DIY EFI Main List'; 'DIY-EFI GMECM'; 'F-Body Classic';
'Fourth Gen'; 'Third Gen'
Cc: 'lockitup@bright.net'
Subject: [4] Bad news about Lambert Pontiac/GMC...Dal :(


Guys:

I hate to be the bearer of bad news here, but I just spoke with Dal and he
asked me to pass this info along to the lists I am on. Please forward to
others as appropriate.

It seems his dealership has had second thoughts on internet parts sales. For
whatever reason, they weren't making as much as they wanted to, so they are
shutting this off. Dal has said they will honor ALL pending requests/orders
that are in the works, and will still take performance parts orders (to
clear inventory). However, all other requests for "general" parts are out :(

Dal has indicated that he will send a message out later with more
details...so please don't swamp him with questions on this.

All I can say is I wish Dal the best in whatever comes for him...he was a
great guy and really helped a lot of us, myself included, a lot. 

TTYL!

Larry 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  8 17:15:10 1999
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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: re: O2 Sensor Voltage
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 14:20:46 -0700
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Hi all,

I think you have to consider the input impedance of the measuring device when
checking out the O2 sensor.  Unlike parts available from semiconductor
manufacturers there doesn't seem to be a lot of information out there about O2
sensors.  However,  measuring the voltage the way you are is fine as long as the
load the meter presents isn't too low.  Normally a standard digital meter is
adequate.  As for an isolated ground... this isn't really needed unless the O2
sensor is also still connected to the Engine Control Unit.

This is because you don't know what the electronics inside the ECU looks like.
Both sides may be isolated above ground so connecting one side to ground will do
strange things.  But as far as measuring the ECU output relative to ground,  I
use a standard LM324 operation amplifier to isolate the low input impedance of
the uC A/D converter from the O2 sensor and once side of the O2 sensor is
connected to ground.

What I have also determined empirically is that 0.5V is 14.7:1 ratio and that
0.7 is about 14.3:1 and 0.3 is about 14.9:1 or thereabouts.  Note too that some
A/D devices (like your digital meter display module),  may require a stable
signal in order to create a valid reading.  This is why some systems use a
Sample and Hold (S/H) circuit to freeze the value while the A/D performs the
conversion.

Cheers,

John



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  8 19:37:24 1999
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Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 19:36:34 EDT
Subject: Sequential Injection  injector overlap?
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Hi

I was wondering if anyone knows if the injector pulse widths overlap on 
sequential injection. The application is a Chrysler 3.3 v-6, 97 model year, 
but I am sure GM is similar. What I mean by overlap is, say injector 1 has 
fired, is it possible (or likely) for the next injector to fire while the 
previous injector is still on?

Thanks

Jon

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If 16 pin obd2 connector, I can provide low cost tool.
Alex
http://www.obd-2.com 
>Wanted - Corrado or Golf VR6 BIN
> Also, does anyone know how to get the fault codes from this ECU ?
> 
> Alan Smith
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  8 20:32:14 1999
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Subject: Re: O2 meter
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Check aquistion time on your digital meter.
This probably a intergrator, with conversions time 
of 0.5 Hz.  You could  be getting a average and aliasing similiar to 
a DVM.
Alex

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  8 21:57:17 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 13:38:36 +1200
From: Steve Spiers <s.spiers@xtra.co.nz>
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Subject: Fuel pump
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Hi

I am having probems with my 1600 with twin 40mm DCOE's I have bought
this up before. It misses at high RPM

I have checked everything and I am now just trying out theorys that
people come up with.

I checked the fuel supply into the carbs and it just dribbled out. What
is an adiquate fuel flow rate and pressure that the pump should be
supplying?

Thanks

Steve



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  9 06:52:59 1999
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From: Putter C <cputter@sed.sun.ac.za>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: O2 Sensor Voltage
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 12:55:51 +0200 
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Remember that the O2 sensor has no driving capability, so you cannot put an
resistive voltage devider on it. (As far as my knowledge reaches)

So I suggest an OP-amp with an "Infinite" input impedance (Voltage folower)
with the resistive devider after that.

Carlo Putter
Stellenbosch
South Africa



Date: Tue, 07 Sep 1999 22:12:46 -0500
From: Tom Sharpe <twsharpe@mtco.com>
Subject: O2 Sensor Voltage

Group, I made a 10 LED O2 display which worked fairly well but was hard
to read as I used assorted LEDs, etc. and it flashed a lot.  I built
another using an LCD display from a cheap meter (0-200 mv), a 9v power
supply (7809 chip etc.) and a 1/10 voltage divider (set of 1/4w
resistors). It works from a 12V power supply and a 1.5V battery -- reads
.1593 volts

It has 4 wires - sensor in, sensor ground, +12 and ground. I wired it to
my efi harness - replaced the LED display. I used a common ground (same
as the LED one). The meter displays 1 indicating the voltage is greater
than scale (> 2 volts).  My volt meter shows +14v (ok here) and .4-.7 v
on the O2 sensor (engine running).

What's wrong? I thought O2 sensors read 0-1V.  Is the meter too
sensitive? Am I getting feedback somewhere?  Do I need another ground?
HELP!!!   TIA.  Tom



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  9 08:47:51 1999
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Subject: Modified PCM code to change RAM?????
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Hi,
   I remember awhile back someone had changed their PCM code, to allow
them
to modify RAM variables via ALDL.  I think they modified the Mode 4
command.
If you are still out there, could you send me the mods you made in the
code.
I remember they were not too complex, and I'd like to do something
similar to
my 95  LT1 PCM.  (I want to continue my reverse engineering of my PCM,
and want to be able to modify ram on my bench setup, while running)


Thanks,
Dave Hempstead
dave_hempstead@hp.com


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  9 09:21:41 1999
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Hi,
   I remember awhile back someone had changed their PCM code, to allow
them
to modify RAM variables via ALDL.  I think they modified the Mode 4
command.
If you are still out there, could you send me the mods you made in the
code.
I remember they were not too complex, and I'd like to do something
similar to
my 95  LT1 PCM.  (I want to continue my reverse engineering of my PCM,
and want to be able to modify ram on my bench setup, while running)


Thanks,
Dave Hempstead
dave_hempstead@hp.com


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  9 09:29:10 1999
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Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 09:29:23 -0400
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From: Kihurani Gakuu <kgakuu@desupernet.net>
Subject: Re:Sequential Injection overlap?
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>Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 19:36:34 EDT
>From: PHXSYS@aol.com
>Subject: Sequential Injection  injector overlap?
>
>Hi
>
>I was wondering if anyone knows if the injector pulse widths overlap on 
>sequential injection. The application is a Chrysler 3.3 v-6, 97 model year, 
>but I am sure GM is similar. What I mean by overlap is, say injector 1 has 
>fired, is it possible (or likely) for the next injector to fire while the 
>previous injector is still on?
>
>Thanks
>Jon

I think it is likely. From the standpoint of a 4 cylinder engine, there
would be an injection every 180 degrees of crankshaft rotation.

At 6000 RPM an injector fires every 5 milliseconds. If the injector
pulsewidth is greater than 5 ms, then it's safe to assume that there will
be an overlap.

I guess what I'm saying is that it depends on the RPM and the injector
pulse width.

Kih



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  9 10:33:44 1999
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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Sequential Injection  injector overlap?
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 07:29:46 -0700
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>Date: Wed, 8 Sep 1999 19:36:34 EDT
>From: PHXSYS@aol.com
>Subject: Sequential Injection  injector overlap?
>
>Hi
>
>I was wondering if anyone knows if the injector pulse widths overlap on
>sequential injection. The application is a Chrysler 3.3 v-6, 97 model year,
>but I am sure GM is similar. What I mean by overlap is, say injector 1 has
>fired, is it possible (or likely) for the next injector to fire while the
>previous injector is still on?
>
>Thanks
>
>Jon


Yes.
.......
OK.  I'll elaborate.  ;-)

Basic rules for injector selection are as small as possible in order to be able
to accurately meter out the tiny quantities needed at idle.  Otherwise you may
find that the injector has been asked to open,  then close before the pintle
barely even moves off the seat.  You can assume that an injector needs at least
1ms as a minimum pulse width.  If the injector is too large idle will be rough
and erratic.

Down side of this is that the injector must then open before the intake valve
opens in order to supply enough fuel and at full RPM the injector may be open
for 80% of an engine cycle.  ie:  at 6500RPM (18ms) it could be open for 14ms so
it actually turns on during or at the end of the the power stroke of the
cylinder.

Because each cylinder in a 4 cyl engine has a power stroke the injectors do
indeed overlap and you might have 3 of them on at the same time at high revs.

There are all sorts of tricks you can use to get around this rough idle.  An
extra throttle body injector for idle speeds is one.  A dual set of injectors, 1
small and the other big much like the two barrel carburetor.

Honda,  in order to have a smooth idle and raw power at the top end uses a
14lb/hr injector for their 1600cc VTEC engines.  They have a smooth idle because
the CAM is mild mild mild until 4000RPM at which point the VTEC solenoid is
activated and the intake profile goes to HOT HOT HOT.  Even so,  the 125HP
engine can just barely make rated horsepower with 14lb/hr injectors and about an
88% duty cycle.  In other words I don't believe the engine in the street
configuration is rated for sustained full power at the top RPM without
overheating the injectors.   But it does run continuously at peak torque RPM of
5200RPM with about 50% injector duty cycle.

Regards,

John Dammeyer



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  9 17:08:28 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 09:02:13 +1200
To: diy_efi-digest@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Roy Baker <roy@acec.co.nz>
Subject: toyota, GM ecu, waste spark, Kalmaker
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Hi guys
I have a project that I need some help on. I have a Toyota 3SGE motor (4
cyl) in my club man 7 I am building. I have Kalmaker software from
Australia and a 16183082 ECU (it says 808 on the case but it has the high
speed chip). The car has separate throttle bodies one per cylinder. (made
in USA)
I need to interface the Toyota Distributor with the ECU or perhaps fit a
waste spark system. The Toyota dis uses 24 tooth crank angle sensor, 2 TDC
sensors (reluctor type) 
1) I have built a hall effect sensor to fit to the front pulley of the
engine with two sensors for a waste spark system. 
What I need now is a circuit to take these pulse and give them to the GM
ECU and gate the return EST to fire the correct coil. Of all the GM
ignition modules produced is there a version for a 4 cyl waste spark system
that fits between the 4 wire of the GM ECU and hall effect sensors?
2) I could grind the lobes from the crank sensor and produce 4 pulse as per
standard arrangement and use the 2 TDC markers to gate a 4 coil set up. Are
there any web sites that can give me a few clues as to the types of
circuits for the above two methods. My programming skills are very limited
so I dismissed this approach once I found my STAMP was to slow to count the
24 pulses per rev when the dis was rotated by my electric drill at 2500 rpm!
Any advice or help would be gratefully receive. This is my first posting
sorry for the length. 

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  9 17:08:31 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 09:03:14 +1200
To: diy_efi-digest@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Roy Baker <roy@acec.co.nz>
Subject: O2 Sensor
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Does any one know how far from the exhaust valve the O2 Sensor can be
placed. Due to restrictions I can place it :
1) About  1  pipe meter length from the motor (exhaust valve),
2) About 1.8 meters  from the exhaust valve and  after the muffler. This
will however be  within 200 mm of the open end of the exhaust pipe. Perhaps
some power boat people  or Hot Rod fans have tried different location? The
Exhaust pipe is on the outside of the car and the reasons are aesthetics. 

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  9 20:44:27 1999
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Subject: Motec?
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 17:42:53 -0700
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Anyone running a Motec box, drop me an email at lowell@smartt.com
My car is a Talon with an M48 pro, wideband, adv tuning and logging, IEX and
v5.11 software.


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep 10 01:10:15 1999
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From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
Subject: Re: cruise control servo - fly by wire
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>Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 18:57:52 -0400
>From: "Clare Snyder" <claresnyder@home.com>
>
>I would think the electric cruise units might stand a chance - the vacuum,
>definitely NOT.

Ok, I'll bite. Electric cruise control units? Is there an aftermarket
(or cheap OE unit) I can get? The stock cruise control on the car is
the vaccum type, so if I'm not gonna use that, the alternative has to
be affordable (under $300 or so for the servo part).

I had some ideas about rigging up 4-6 different solenoid valves, each
with a different size restrictor, to be able to open and close a vaccum
type unit at different speeds. It seems like a lot of work, though, and
even so not likely to give good results.

Thanks to everyone for all the help. I'm checking with one of my
model airplane friends to see if they have any usable servo stuff.

   Chris C.


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep 10 09:30:19 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 09:29:39 EDT
Subject: O2 seor placement.   Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #516
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I have put a heated O2 sensor way down on the header collector
of a 396 Camaro with no problem at all.  Was tempted to try it a few
meters further back, but didn't wanna poke the hole in the new pipes.
Don't know about the one-wire sensors.  That might be tough.
The heated 3 wire bosch should work without a problem.
Also resists lead contamination better than one-wire, if that
is an issue.
HTH
Mike V
<< 
 Does any one know how far from the exhaust valve the O2 Sensor can be
 placed. Due to restrictions I can place it :
 1) About  1  pipe meter length from the motor (exhaust valve),
 2) About 1.8 meters  from the exhaust valve and  after the muffler. This
 will however be  within 200 mm of the open end of the exhaust pipe. Perhaps
 some power boat people  or Hot Rod fans have tried different location? The
 Exhaust pipe is on the outside of the car and the reasons are aesthetics. 
  >>

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep 10 09:56:39 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 09:57:57 -0700
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Subject: Re: cruise control servo - GM type
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For a while we used the stock GM electronic cruise control units to do throttle
control while testing engines on dynamometers at our lab.  The unit has a
stepper motor (3 phase) and another solenoid to engage/disengage the stepper
motor.  This is handy if you need to disengage the stepper and close the
throttle quickly.  We didn't use the built in brains (which normally accepts a
pulse speedometer input, resume, brake, coast, accel inputs), but tapped into
the stepper directly to control the throttle cable.  It worked OK, but was a bit
slower than we really wanted.  I don't think it costs much, around $200, but I'm
not sure, Someone else purchased the units.  The wiring diagram form a GM manual
specifies what the input are if you choose to use the GM on board brains.

Will McGonegal
Emissions Research and Measurement Division
Environment Canada


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep 10 18:19:07 1999
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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Vapour Pressure
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 15:24:29 -0700
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Hi All,

Does anyone have the formulae for Vapor Pressure?  If I assume RH is 75% and can
measure the Air Temperature inside the intake manifold what is the calculation
for vp?

Thanks,

John




From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep 10 21:05:38 1999
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Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 20:13:57 -0400
Subject: Volvo/Saab Bosch MAF swap for VAF
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Some of you may recall that I've been investigating the possibility of
swapping a Bosch MAF from a Saab or Volvo (they call it a AMM), for the
stock  Bosch VAF meter in my Merkur XR4Ti (Ford Sierra in the rest of the
world).  Here's what I've discovered about the two MAF on the bench:

'87 Volvo 740 2.3 Turbo MAF  Bosch p/n 0 280 212 007  (black plastic
case)

Pin #1  Ground (MAF signal - local)
Pin #2  Ground for filament burn-off and CO idle adjustment (at PCM)
Pin #3  MAF output (~1 - 5v)
Pin #4  Filament burn-off (4v for 1 second after shut-down, controlled by
PCM)
Pin #5  12v Power input
Pin #6  CO Idle adjustment  

'87 Saab 900 2.0 N/A  MAF  Bosch p/n 0 280 212 005 (aluminum case)

Pin #1  Filament burn-off (4v fro 1 second after shut-down, controlled by
PCM)
Pin #2  12v Power input
Pin #3  Ground for filament burn-off and CO idle adjustment (at PCM)
Pin #4  Ground (MAF signal - local)
Pin #5  MAF output (~1 - 5 v)
Pin #6  CO idle adjustment

For bench testing purposes, I was only using three circuits:  The MAF
output & ground and the 12v input (conveniently provided by a fresh
battery).  Here's what I discovered:
	  	Powered, still air		Powered, maximum human breadth
Volvo MAF	 	   1.32 volts			2.70 volts	
Saab MAF		   1.55 volts			3.95 volts

Not surprisingly, the two MAFs are calibrated differently, with the N/A
Saab MAF likely to max out (5v) with much less air flow than the Volvo
turbo MAF.

Now, back to my replacement objective...  The stock Merkur VAF has a base
starting output (powered but no air flow) of .5v, which is much less than
either of these devices (relatively speaking).  So I'm thinking about
sticking an in-line  POT on the output line to provide an adjustable
base-line voltage and match it to the .5v that the PCM is looking for
from the stock VAF.  I realize matching the base-line voltage does not
guarantee a match across the full range, but it's a starting point.  What
I'd really like to do is find a way to use the built-in CO idle
adjustment screw, since it will otherwise go un-used since this function
is not supported by the Ford PCM.   

If it turns out that adjusting the MAF output in a monolithic fashion can
not closely reproduce the original VAF output, I'll have to look at a
"black box" solution from vendors such as Split Second or Pro-M which
provide the ability to have 2 or 3 adjustments to the MAF depending upon
the flow.  I'm not smart enough to figure that one out myself.

Any comments, corrections, open discusions, etc are welcome.

Brad Anesi
(bjanesi@juno.com)

___________________________________________________________________
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep 10 22:09:12 1999
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From: xxalexx <xxalexx@ix.netcom.com>
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xxalexx sent you this message and story from Wired News.

need injector number for this
engine

W I R E D   N E W S
- - - - - - - - - - 

The Little Engine that Might
 by Leander Kahney 

Taking on the world's giant energy business, a tiny startup is set to launch an engine that requires no fuel, produces no pollution, and is free to run.

Naturally, the experts think it's too good to be true -- although they can't exactly say why. 

 See also: Plasma-Powered Trip to the Stars   



Entropy Systems, a seven-person startup based in Youngstown, Ohio, is scheduled to launch the Entropy engine early next year, said the technology's inventor, Sanjay Amin, a mechanical engineer and co-founder of the company.  

The Entropy engine acts like a heat sponge, absorbing heat in the atmosphere and converting it to power, Amin said. Since it consumes no fossil fuels, nuclear fuels, or electrical power, it produces no emissions, directly or indirectly. Its only byproduct is cold air.  

Initially, the technology will be used to create an outboard motor for small pleasure boats, simply because it's the easiest market to break into, Amin said. But as it is developed, the technology could be used to run refrigerators, air conditioners, generators -- even automobiles.  

"There's no reason it can't power a car," Amin said.  

So far, Amin has built a prototype, which he said generates one-tenth of one horsepower. The outboard motor -- yet to be built -- will produce between two and three horsepower.

It will be roughly the same size as a conventional outboard motor and only marginally more expensive. But, apart from routine maintenance and lubrication, the engine will be free to run.  

Named after the unit in physics that describes the amount of available energy in a system, the Entropy engine consists of a central chamber, filled with air, that has a piston in the center, Amin said.  

The engine operates on a cycle. First, a starter motor spins the engine to a high speed, which pushes the gas to the edge of the central chamber, as in a centrifuge. As the gas moves to the edge, it creates a partial vacuum in the center that draws the piston out, compressing the gas.

In the second part of the cycle, the engine is slowed, and the gas redistributes itself throughout the chamber, which increases the pressure on the piston. Heat trapped in the gas is converted into the energy that moves the piston, which cools the air in the engine chamber.


The engine will run year-round in any climate, even in sub-zero temperatures. Although it operates better in warmer climates, it will work in any environment above absolute zero (minus 273 degrees Celsius).

"In physical terms, even ice has a lot of heat," Amin said.

Amin claims to have patented the technology in the United States, Australia, and Europe. He said he has published a book on thermodynamics and in 1996 received an Engineer of the Year award from the American Society of Engineers of Indian Origin.

Always obsessed with engines, Amin built steam engines as a teenager. He has devoted more than a decade to the Entropy engine. He began by looking at gravity as a power source, which eventually led to the idea of using atmospheric heat.  

The technology was developed in part when Amin was studying at Youngstown State University, which helped launch the fledgling company.  

 Bill Dunn, an associate professor of mechanical engineering at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, said that while he hasn't seen the engine in action, he has examined the materials on Entropy's Web site. He said the logic appears sound, but the outcome -- free power -- doesn't make sense.  

"It's the end result -- that you can create power from heat at ambient temperature -- that flies in the face of the basic laws of physics," said Dunn, who acknowledges that he hasn't devoted time to figure out why the engine shouldn't work. 

"To track down where his thinking may be flawed is a difficult thing to do," Dunn said.  

In Amin's favor, Dunn noted that he has attracted backing from "some very intelligent people."  

Hedging his bets, Dunn said breakthrough technologies have frequently been greeted with skepticism. "Every time someone suggests something like this, you should at least give them the benefit of an open mind."

Iain MacGill, an energy campaigner at Greenpeace, said that because vehicle pollution makes up about a third of US greenhouse gas emissions, a pollution-free engine would be an incredible breakthrough. Nevertheless, it sounds to him like fiction.  

"It's got a flavor of 'too-good-to-be-true' about it," he said. "I'm a wee bit skeptical."  
 
 

- - - - - - - - - - 
W I R E D   N E W S

   Wired News is a real-time news service offering news 
   briefs and in-depth reporting on politics, business, culture, 
   and technology. For the most up-to-date coverage on the 
   digital world, go to ...
   http://www.wired.com/news/


   You are receiving this email because a friend or acquaintance
   sent it to you. If you no longer wish to receive these messages,
   please contact the sender, and not Wired News.

   Copyright 1999 Wired Digital, Inc. 



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep 10 22:29:34 1999
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From: "Clare Snyder" <claresnyder@home.com>
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #516 fly by wire
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 22:29:49 -0400
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> Subject: Re: cruise control servo - fly by wire
>
> >Date: Tue, 7 Sep 1999 18:57:52 -0400
> >From: "Clare Snyder" <claresnyder@home.com>
> >
> >I would think the electric cruise units might stand a chance - the
vacuum,
> >definitely NOT.
>
> Ok, I'll bite. Electric cruise control units? Is there an aftermarket
> (or cheap OE unit) I can get? The stock cruise control on the car is
> the vaccum type, so if I'm not gonna use that, the alternative has to
> be affordable (under $300 or so for the servo part).
>

The late model Ford Aerostar uses it, I suspect a lot of other fords as
well. Possibly others. Toyota used one a few years ago, not sure of current
usage,


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep 11 09:57:55 1999
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From: "Alex C. Peper" <xxalexx@popd.ix.netcom.com>
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Subject: Re: Vapour Pressure
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Good set of humidity calculations for engines is in code of federal 
regulation title 40 section 86.344-79. available in public 
university. also has water-vapour dry volume calculation 
alex

> Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 15:24:29 -0700
> From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
> Subject: Vapour Pressure
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Does anyone have the formulae for Vapor Pressure?  If I assume RH is 75% and can
> measure the Air Temperature inside the intake manifold what is the calculation
> for vp?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> John
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep 11 09:58:24 1999
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Subject: Re: Volvo/Saab Bosch MAF swap for VAF
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I made some controllers for Bosch Hot Wire and Bosch Vane with PIC 73
Used built in 8 bit converter and 10 bit PWM output direct 
connection on hot wire.( used voltage divider and opamp on 10 V.
vane meter.)  Was used as O2 sensor adaptive feed back control,
with 12 point internal correction table.  Also had prototype to load
EEPROM values and rpm input. 
You could look into adjustable gain opamps and DAC's
Alex

> Some of you may recall that I've been investigating the possibility of
> swapping a Bosch MAF from a Saab or Volvo (they call it a AMM), for the
> stock  Bosch VAF meter in my Merkur XR4Ti (Ford Sierra in the rest of the
> world).  Here's what I've discovered about the two MAF on the bench:
> 
> '87 Volvo 740 2.3 Turbo MAF  Bosch p/n 0 280 212 007  (black plastic
> case)
> 
> Pin #1  Ground (MAF signal - local)
> Pin #2  Ground for filament burn-off and CO idle adjustment (at PCM)
> Pin #3  MAF output (~1 - 5v)
> Pin #4  Filament burn-off (4v for 1 second after shut-down, controlled by
> PCM)
> Pin #5  12v Power input
> Pin #6  CO Idle adjustment  
> 
> '87 Saab 900 2.0 N/A  MAF  Bosch p/n 0 280 212 005 (aluminum case)
> 
> Pin #1  Filament burn-off (4v fro 1 second after shut-down, controlled by
> PCM)
> Pin #2  12v Power input
> Pin #3  Ground for filament burn-off and CO idle adjustment (at PCM)
> Pin #4  Ground (MAF signal - local)
> Pin #5  MAF output (~1 - 5 v)
> Pin #6  CO idle adjustment
> 
> For bench testing purposes, I was only using three circuits:  The MAF
> output & ground and the 12v input (conveniently provided by a fresh
> battery).  Here's what I discovered:
> 	  	Powered, still air		Powered, maximum human breadth
> Volvo MAF	 	   1.32 volts			2.70 volts	
> Saab MAF		   1.55 volts			3.95 volts
> 
> Not surprisingly, the two MAFs are calibrated differently, with the N/A
> Saab MAF likely to max out (5v) with much less air flow than the Volvo
> turbo MAF.
> 
> Now, back to my replacement objective...  The stock Merkur VAF has a base
> starting output (powered but no air flow) of .5v, which is much less than
> either of these devices (relatively speaking).  So I'm thinking about
> sticking an in-line  POT on the output line to provide an adjustable
> base-line voltage and match it to the .5v that the PCM is looking for
> from the stock VAF.  I realize matching the base-line voltage does not
> guarantee a match across the full range, but it's a starting point.  What
> I'd really like to do is find a way to use the built-in CO idle
> adjustment screw, since it will otherwise go un-used since this function
> is not supported by the Ford PCM.   
> 
> If it turns out that adjusting the MAF output in a monolithic fashion can
> not closely reproduce the original VAF output, I'll have to look at a
> "black box" solution from vendors such as Split Second or Pro-M which
> provide the ability to have 2 or 3 adjustments to the MAF depending upon
> the flow.  I'm not smart enough to figure that one out myself.
> 
> Any comments, corrections, open discusions, etc are welcome.
> 
> Brad Anesi
> (bjanesi@juno.com)

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep 11 10:53:37 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 10:53:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@snurgle.org>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Wired foo
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On Sat, 11 Sep 1999, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:

> Naturally, the experts think it's too good to be true -- although they
> can't exactly say why.

I don't know why they can't.  I can; it violates the Second Law of
Thermodynamics.  Entropy has to increase.  That engine decreases entropy
by converting heat energy into rotational energy.  The engine has to
output entropy somewhere.

My guess would be that the problem lies with all the accelerating and
decelerating that this engine is supposed to do.  How are they going to
arrange for that?


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep 11 12:30:10 1999
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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Measuring MAF
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 09:35:41 -0700
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Hi,

I'll put in my two cents here.    Don't know how clever you are with electronics
but if you purchase a differential pressure transducer you can build a simple
flow meter by measuring the difference in pressure at two points.  Create a
supply tube that has a restriction and measure the pressure at the restriction
and the point before the restriction.  (venturi in effect).  As long as you
know the temperature of the air flow and the size of the tubes you can calculate
the airflow.  Then,  just use a DC powered fan with a variable power supply to
push air through this pipe into the MAF sensor.

Alternatively,  you might be able to rent a hot wire anemometer from an air
conditioning firm and if you place that in the air stream of your air supply you
can also calibrate the MAF sensor.  I'm willing to bet that once you get a few
accurate set points you can probably extrapolate the entire curve.

BTW.  Thanks for the info on the SAAB.  I have a 900 Turbo.

Regards,

John

>Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 20:13:57 -0400
>From: bjanesi@juno.com
>Subject: Volvo/Saab Bosch MAF swap for VAF


[snip]

>
>If it turns out that adjusting the MAF output in a monolithic fashion can
>not closely reproduce the original VAF output, I'll have to look at a
>"black box" solution from vendors such as Split Second or Pro-M which
>provide the ability to have 2 or 3 adjustments to the MAF depending upon
>the flow.  I'm not smart enough to figure that one out myself.
>
>Any comments, corrections, open discusions, etc are welcome.
>
>Brad Anesi
>(bjanesi@juno.com)
>




From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep 11 14:00:29 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 12:36:32 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Jason Haines <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
Subject: electronic trans controller
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I know this was an old post but someone asked about stand alone electronic
transmission controllers (in this case for the 4L60E). I am not sure how easy
it would be to make this work but the diesel truck transmission controllers
controls the 4L80E transmission. We have used this in many conversion
applications to control this very heavy duty transmission.

The controller is as follows:
16147609 GM diesel truck 1991-1993 6.5L diesel

A sample calibration is as follows
16173828BACZ?CK, 1 ton1992-1993AT6.5L D, "F" 


Also, DFI/Accel had an aftermarket controller available but only a few made it
to the public before they stopped production. FelPro then came out with a
controller and I am not sure if it is still available.



Jason



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep 11 14:59:48 1999
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>> Ok, I'll bite. Electric cruise control units? Is there an aftermarket
>> (or cheap OE unit) I can get? The stock cruise control on the car is
>
>The late model Ford Aerostar uses it, I suspect a lot of other fords as
>well. Possibly others. Toyota used one a few years ago, not sure of current

Thank you to everyone who helped with info about cruise control stuff.
Now I have plenty of leads and feel pretty sure I can get something
to do the job. One thing in my favor is that I don't have to use the
stock TB or actuator cam. So, if the actuator has a longer, slower throw
than what I wanted, I can make up for it with a different TB cam and
spring.

As for safety, the first line is in the feedback loop that keeps the
TB lined up with the position commanded by the right foot. If the TB
is too far out of sync for too long (200-300 msec-ish), fuel and spark
are cut. When the PWM fuel pressure system is put in, the fuel pump
will be cut off also.  The second line of safety is a switch so the
driver can cut off fuel/spark/fuel pump. As you might guess there's a
whole lot of development going on all at once in this project, and I'd
really rather not have it get away from me.

Also by conincidence I was looking at some Eaton info and they have what
is basically a small TB, actuated by a vaccum/diaphragm type of thing.
Sort of like a very simple version of the cruise control actuator system.
$85 for the generic one, TB bore about 1.5" IIRC.

   Thanks again,
   Chris C.


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep 11 16:47:36 1999
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Subject: Re: Wired foo
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> On Sat, 11 Sep 1999, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:

> > Naturally, the experts think it's too good to be true -- although they
> > can't exactly say why.

> I don't know why they can't.  I can; it violates the Second Law of
> Thermodynamics.  Entropy has to increase.  That engine decreases entropy
> by converting heat energy into rotational energy.  The engine has to
> output entropy somewhere.

You can convert heat energy into rotational energy easily enough...
it's what you car engine does.  There is a lot of heat energy to
convert though.

I suspect that there isn't enough heat energy in ambient air
to drive it through their system and have any energy left over.
In fact, I'd guess you would have to input energy.

Imagine if it did work - a self-powered refrigerator!

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep 11 19:30:01 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 18:53:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Bosch MAF for VAF swap
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Hi Alex-

Thanks for the response.  Although I have a basic understanding of
electronics, I'm not an electrical design engineer, so this is probably a
bit over my head.  Tying the MAF output to the O2 sensor output does
sound interesting though, but what about cold start-up when running open
loop?  I guess there would have to be a default setting for open loop.

I know the Split Second Co. has a control box with 3 different pots; I
believe one sets the base idle, one sets mid-range, and the 3rd sets
voltage at maximum air-flow.  Fine tuning is done primarily via
observation of an O2 sensor meter, so it is a manual approach to what it
sounds like you have done automatically with the adaptive feedback.
 
Any chance you have a schematic on any of this?  Any info would be
appreciated.

Thanks again,

Brad (brad.anesi@netiq.com <--- use this address if sending attachments)

----------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 09:27:41 +0000
From: "Alex C. Peper" <xxalexx@popd.ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Volvo/Saab Bosch MAF swap for VAF

I made some controllers for Bosch Hot Wire and Bosch Vane with PIC 73
Used built in 8 bit converter and 10 bit PWM output direct 
connection on hot wire.( used voltage divider and opamp on 10 V.
vane meter.)  Was used as O2 sensor adaptive feed back control,
with 12 point internal correction table.  Also had prototype to load
EEPROM values and rpm input. 
You could look into adjustable gain opamps and DAC's
Alex
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep 11 19:30:15 1999
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Subject: Re: Bosch MAF for VAF
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Thanks for the input John-

I think the problem is not so much knowing the flow, as it is correctly
adjusting the hot-wire voltage output over a range of flow conditions to
match what is normally delivered to the PCM by the stock VAF meter. 
Monitoring via an air-fuel (O2 sensor) meter, is probably a better way to
correctly adjust this, but I suspect a single static adjustment will only
provide a match at one flow setting, and not the entire range (but I
don't yet have any specific data to back up that statement).   

FWIW, I do have an extra pressure transducer pulled from an APC-equipped
Saab turbo.  What year is your 900?

Brad Anesi
-----------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 09:35:41 -0700
From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
Subject: Measuring MAF

Hi,

I'll put in my two cents here.    Don't know how clever you are with
electronics
but if you purchase a differential pressure transducer you can build a
simple
flow meter by measuring the difference in pressure at two points.  Create
a
supply tube that has a restriction and measure the pressure at the
restriction
and the point before the restriction.  (venturi in effect).  As long as
you
know the temperature of the air flow and the size of the tubes you can
calculate
the airflow.  Then,  just use a DC powered fan with a variable power
supply to
push air through this pipe into the MAF sensor.

Alternatively,  you might be able to rent a hot wire anemometer from an
air
conditioning firm and if you place that in the air stream of your air
supply you
can also calibrate the MAF sensor.  I'm willing to bet that once you get
a few
accurate set points you can probably extrapolate the entire curve.

BTW.  Thanks for the info on the SAAB.  I have a 900 Turbo.

Regards,

John
___________________________________________________________________
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Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep 12 15:14:56 1999
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From: "Alex C. Peper" <xxalexx@popd.ix.netcom.com>
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Subject: Re: MAF offset
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I cut the MAF line and placed a A/D - micro. - D/A in the line.
This is known as intercept method.   You can modify the input
to what ever output you want.  O2 voltage, RPM, and water temp
were other inputs, but only one output.  I am not sure what would
happen if you tapped the O2 line into the MAF.
For cold start and safety I used a normally closed bypass relay
I might be doing some more work on this in future, if you need
a simple offset box for small donation let me know.
Alex  

> Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 18:53:55 -0400
> From: bjanesi@juno.com
> Subject: Re: Bosch MAF for VAF swap
> 
> Hi Alex-
> 
> Thanks for the response.  Although I have a basic understanding of
> electronics, I'm not an electrical design engineer, so this is probably a
> bit over my head.  Tying the MAF output to the O2 sensor output does
> sound interesting though, but what about cold start-up when running open
> loop?  I guess there would have to be a default setting for open loop.
> 
> I know the Split Second Co. has a control box with 3 different pots; I
> believe one sets the base idle, one sets mid-range, and the 3rd sets
> voltage at maximum air-flow.  Fine tuning is done primarily via
> observation of an O2 sensor meter, so it is a manual approach to what it
> sounds like you have done automatically with the adaptive feedback.
>  
> Any chance you have a schematic on any of this?  Any info would be
> appreciated.
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Brad (brad.anesi@netiq.com <--- use this address if sending attachments)
> 
Alex C Peper
http://www.obd-2.com

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep 12 17:36:34 1999
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From: William T Wilson <fluffy@snurgle.org>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #520
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On Sun, 12 Sep 1999, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:

> > I don't know why they can't.  I can; it violates the Second Law of
> > Thermodynamics.  Entropy has to increase.  That engine decreases entropy
> > by converting heat energy into rotational energy.  The engine has to
> > output entropy somewhere.
> 
> You can convert heat energy into rotational energy easily enough...
> it's what you car engine does.  There is a lot of heat energy to
> convert though.

Yeah, but the car engine does this by starting with comparatively well
ordered heat energy.  The air inside the combustion chamber is hot, the
air outside is not.  After one complete power stroke (all 4 cycles from
intake to exhaust) suddenly the air outside the combustion chamber is a
little hotter and the air inside has all been pumped out.  Some of that
energy is converted to rotation, but some of it just contributed to global
warming.  Entropy has increased and the second law is happy.

This engine does the reverse.  It takes regular air, magically extracts
the heat from it, then turns it into rotational energy and blows out the
cold air.  Entropy has decreased because you've taken unordered heat
energy and converted it not only into rotation but into ordered heat, too.
That's against the rules.

> I suspect that there isn't enough heat energy in ambient air
> to drive it through their system and have any energy left over.

There's tons of heat energy in ambient air.  You just can't use it for
anything other than heating stuff. :}


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep 12 19:29:02 1999
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Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 07:40:49 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #518
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>Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 15:24:29 -0700
>From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
>Subject: Vapour Pressure
>
>Hi All,
>
>Does anyone have the formulae for Vapor Pressure?  If I assume RH is 75%
>and can
>measure the Air Temperature inside the intake manifold what is the calculation
>for vp?
>
>Thanks,
>
>John

You need some combination of psychrometric charts or GOOD steam tables. A
good steam table will include a section giving the equations upon which the
values stated in the tables are based.

If RH is 75%, the VP will be 75% of the VP (partial pressure of H2O vapor)
at saturated conditions for that temp.

Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep 12 19:38:58 1999
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Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 09:07:41 -0600
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>DIY_EFI Digest       Sunday, September 12 1999       Volume 04 : Number 520
>
>
>
>In this issue:
>
>	Re: Wired foo
>	Re: Bosch MAF for VAF swap
>	Re: Bosch MAF for VAF
>
>See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the
>DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 13:47:32 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Orin Eman <orin@wolfenet.com>
>Subject: Re: Wired foo
>
>> On Sat, 11 Sep 1999, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:
>
>> > Naturally, the experts think it's too good to be true -- although they
>> > can't exactly say why.
>
>> I don't know why they can't.  I can; it violates the Second Law of
>> Thermodynamics.  Entropy has to increase.  That engine decreases entropy
>> by converting heat energy into rotational energy.  The engine has to
>> output entropy somewhere.
>
>You can convert heat energy into rotational energy easily enough...
>it's what you car engine does.  There is a lot of heat energy to
>convert though.
>
>I suspect that there isn't enough heat energy in ambient air
>to drive it through their system and have any energy left over.
>In fact, I'd guess you would have to input energy.
>
>Imagine if it did work - a self-powered refrigerator!
>
>Orin.
>
The second law of thermo is the only law of physics that hasn't changed
since the time of Newton. Somehow, I doubt that this guy has found a
glitsch in what Sir Isaac wrote! If he has--more power to him, he will
surely be way wealthier than Bill Gate$!! If not, his investors will be
somewhat poorer, and angrier.

I'm not gonna hold by breath to see the thing work as claimed!

Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep 13 11:14:50 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 01:14:07 +1000
From: injec@nt5.ains.net.au (Phil)
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Subject: magically extracts the heat
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Hi All,

This one is fun isn't it ?

> This engine does the reverse.  It takes regular air, magically
extracts
> the heat from it, then turns it into rotational energy and blows out
the
> cold air.  Entropy has decreased because you've taken unordered
heat...

The problem lends itself to a temperature gradient solution. For "flow"
to
occur we need a temperature differential between the two environments.

While it is clear that low level heat is available in the atmosphere for

conversion to energy of another variety the problem remains with
exactly where the low energy state is to be found. If within the
rotating
machine there is a zone of infinite negative pressure or lower temp
the "flow"  will be unidirectional. A perfect perpetual motion machine.

In this case there is also a component of "exhaust" that is sub normal
in it's heat energy value. This would cause the flow to be around the
"outside" of the machine. The reason is simple. If you extract some heat

energy from a volume of air it will loose volume causing a pressure
differential against the higher energy surroundings. thus the machine is

actually doing better than unity with an amount of electrical energy to
spare.

Shirley it would be easier to spin the pump in the air conditioner
backwards and then have it produce rather than consume energy.

P.S If there is still a swag of silly money chasing this project I
retract
everything I said and would of course make myself available for a
senior consultancy.


Regards

Phil Lamovie
Injec Racing

(a swag is a large aussie bag)


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep 13 12:46:12 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:46:07 -0700
From: "Clay Buccellato (Anthony)" <claybu@sr.hp.com>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Low impedance waste spark coils?
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Does anyone know of a good source for hot, low impedance,
distributorless coils? They're not much different from standard coils,
except for having two spark plugs in series on each side of the
secondary windings. I'm also interested in a four-channel capacitive
discharge driver for the coils, such as MSD's DSI-4, only with more
current handling capability. I think the MSD is a bit limited, and
cannot drive the really hot coils, just like their old 6AL box.

As far as I can tell, the only coil packs currently available are the
factory units from Ford and Chevy. I've been told that they suffer from
insulation breakdown on the secondary side, if you try and drive them
very  hard. I'm looking for the waste-spark equivalent of the Crane
PS-92, or MSD pro-power. I want lightning bolts  :)

I'm putting together an EFI setup for a BBC using the Speed-Pro ECU. I
don't want to spend good money buying old technology (distributor), and
I need an ignition system. I've checked with the big three, MSD, Crane,
and Jacobs. Jacobs claims to have prototypes, but thats about it. Any
ideas?
-- 
                                      -Clay

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep 13 15:52:13 1999
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 13:49:21 -0600
From: Scott Beltz <hollandl@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Bailey AFM-1 wide band O2 system for tuning (SpeedBrain)
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Sorry for the cross post but I need input from anyone who has experience
with wide band 02 systems especially the Bailey AFM-1. I am thinking
about buying one because here in Denver the Dyno shops do not have a
wide band systems. They only use the dynos to check for horsepower
improvements. I have recently purchased a Speedbrain to fine tune my
supercharged 5.8 SN95. I have been using Chris Johnson's chips for
awhile but wanted more control of the system without having to re-burn
and change chips. I have heard that there are some private individuals
here in Denver that have wide bands for tuning there own cars but have
not been able to talk with them yet. My question is with the quality of
the Bailey AFM-1. This product is selling for about $1100 while the
Lambda Meter and others are over $5000. Some information on the Bailey
can be found on APE's WEB site. If anyone has experience with these Wide
band systems please let me know what your thought are. I do not want to
spend $5000+ for a system that with be used for my private use but also
do not want to spend $1100 for a POS.

Any help will be appreciated, Thanks

Scott Beltz


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep 13 16:49:33 1999
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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Low impedance waste spark coils?
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 13:55:22 -0700
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>From: "Clay Buccellato (Anthony)" <claybu@sr.hp.com>
>Subject: Low impedance waste spark coils?

>As far as I can tell, the only coil packs currently available are the
>factory units from Ford and Chevy. I've been told that they suffer from
>insulation breakdown on the secondary side, if you try and drive them
>very  hard. I'm looking for the waste-spark equivalent of the Crane
>PS-92, or MSD pro-power. I want lightning bolts  :)

We're currently using the Ford units for aircraft applications and haven't yet
had problem that we are aware of.  Where did you hear that the insulation breaks
down on the secondary side?  I'm currently dumping a 1.5uFd Cap sitting at 225V
into it through a triac.  Works great.

Regards,

John



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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 17:45:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Vapor Pressure of Water
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<< Does anyone have the formulae for Vapor Pressure?  If I assume RH is 75% 
and can
 measure the Air Temperature inside the intake manifold what is the 
calculation
 for vp? >>


I feel I have a good contribution for this one.

>From steam tables, I calculated a forth order polynomial fitted curve for the 
pressures of saturated water vapor between 40 °F and 100 °F at 14.7 PSI.

Partial Pressure of Water Vapor = 

(0.0672 - 0.0022175 * TEMP
    + 1.1065E-04 * TEMP ^ 2  
    - 8.7841E-07 * TEMP ^ 3 
    + 8.7671E-09 * TEMP ^ 4)


To find the partial pressure (in PSI) of water vapor with known relative 
humidity, put in the temperature (°F) and multiply by the relative humidity 
value.

Vapor pressure of water (below 100 °F) should never be over 1 PSI at STP.

I have an executable program that determines relative humidity and oxygen to 
water ratio.  The user needs to input a dry bulb temperature, wet bulb 
temperature, and atmospheric pressure.  If interested, please email me back.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep 13 21:56:14 1999
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From: Stuart Baly <S.Baly@bom.gov.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Vapour Pressure
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 11:55:50 +1000
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>Date: Sat, 11 Sep 1999 07:40:49 -0600
>From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
>Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #518
>
>>Date: Fri, 10 Sep 1999 15:24:29 -0700
>>From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
>>Subject: Vapour Pressure
>>
>>Hi All,
>>
>>Does anyone have the formulae for Vapor Pressure?  If I assume RH is 75%
>>and can
>>measure the Air Temperature inside the intake manifold what is the 
calculation
>>for vp?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>John
>
>You need some combination of psychrometric charts or GOOD steam tables. A
>good steam table will include a section giving the equations upon which 
the
>values stated in the tables are based.
>
>If RH is 75%, the VP will be 75% of the VP (partial pressure of H2O vapor)
>at saturated conditions for that temp.
>
>Greg
>

John,
	To calculate the saturation vapor pressure, you need the Goff-Gratch 
formula, which is:
log10(Ew)= -7.90298(Ts/T-1) + 5.02808*log10(Ts/T) - 
1.3816*10^-7*(10^(11.334(1-T/Ts))-1) + 8.1328*(10^(-3.49149(Ts/T-1))-1) + 
log10(Ews)

where
	Ew = saturation vapor pressure in millibar
	T = abs. temp. (in K)
	Ts = steam point temp (=373.16K)
	Ews = saturation pressure of water @ steam-point temp. (=1013.246 
millibar)

	There's a handwritten correction to this formula in my reference book - 
8.1328 has been marked as 'should be 0.0081328'. To check this, you should 
get the following results

T (C)		pressure (mb)
10		12.272
15		17.044
20		23.373

This was from the Smithsonian Meteorological Tables, 1951 edition.

Relative humidity = Vapor Pressure/Saturation Vapor Pressure

I take it 75% RH refers to ambient conditions - the RH will change 
drastically as the air passes through the throttle body.

There's a whole mess of if, buts and empirical corrections in this area of 
meteorology. You'll probably need to get a hold of a good reference and 
check it out.

Cheers,
Stuart Baly.
Bureau of Meteorology, Australia.

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`
end


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep 14 03:41:05 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 09:44:49 +0200
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Nic van der Walt <nvdw@cellpt.co.za>
Subject: Perpetual motion machines
In-Reply-To: <199909131900.PAA01937@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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>conversion to energy of another variety the problem remains with
>exactly where the low energy state is to be found. If within the
>rotating
>machine there is a zone of infinite negative pressure or lower temp
>the "flow"  will be unidirectional. A perfect perpetual motion machine.

Simple... All you need is a micro black hole and a way to control it!
I think Heinlein described it in the fifties, so they can't even
patent it.

N. ;-)

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep 14 09:43:13 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 07:43:47 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: bearbvd@sni.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #523
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>
>Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 13:55:22 -0700
>From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
>Subject: Re: Low impedance waste spark coils?
>
>>From: "Clay Buccellato (Anthony)" <claybu@sr.hp.com>
>>Subject: Low impedance waste spark coils?
>
>>As far as I can tell, the only coil packs currently available are the
>>factory units from Ford and Chevy. I've been told that they suffer from
>>insulation breakdown on the secondary side, if you try and drive them
>>very  hard. I'm looking for the waste-spark equivalent of the Crane
>>PS-92, or MSD pro-power. I want lightning bolts  :)
>
>We're currently using the Ford units for aircraft applications and haven't yet
>had problem that we are aware of.  Where did you hear that the insulation
>breaks
>down on the secondary side?  I'm currently dumping a 1.5uFd Cap sitting at 225V
>into it through a triac.  Works great.
>
>Regards,
>
>John
>

Jacobs makes a maverick spark unit for Hardley Ablesons that might do just
what you need. I think it is rated at about a joule per spark.

Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep 14 14:14:16 1999
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From: "Jacky" <yoshi@hotpop.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <199909140900.FAA10870@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Bailey AFM-1
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 11:12:27 -0700
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What is the address for APE's web site?

Jacky


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep 14 14:19:16 1999
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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Vapor Pressure
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 09:00:56 -0700
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Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

Hi guys,

Thanks for those equations.  Neither of those are probably appropriate for real
time calculations from cranking up to 7000RPM and 7"Hg to 30"Hg inside the
intake manifold with my little 8 bit processor. I'd have to create some lookup
tables.

But that does bring up an interesting point.  Al Grippo, in his paper where he
shows how do derive pulse width,  aludes to 3.1Kpa correction for vapor pressure
in the intake manifold, assuming 75% humidity and 85F temperature.  Now,  will
this be the vapor pressure of the gasoline as it changes state from liquid into
gas or water as it expands in the manifold?

My understanding of fuel injection is that the MAP sensor will detect the
pressure inside the intake manifold before fuel is injected.   Then the
appropriate calculations (or table lookups) are done and the fuel is injected.
Obviously, squirt an incompressable liquid into a closed volume and the pressure
would go up a bit but I doubt this impacts the manifold pressure significantly.
However,  once that gasoline turns into a vapour it must exert some extra
pressure.  Is that what is calculated in the formula?

Or,  given that RH is really a derived term and the proper variable for moisture
is dew point are we more concerned about the change in pressure caused by the
air mixture (containing some water) warms up inside the intake manifold.
Wouldn't the MAP sensor detect this?

In the Grippo (and Bowling) formulas the larger the vp the smaller the pulse
width.  This probably implies that some of the pressure measured by the MAP
sensor is due to water content vapor pressure and therefore there is less oxygen
in the air charge for combustion and so less fuel is needed.  Question is,  how
much of an impact would that really make if the fuel injection system is tuned
sitting at the edge of the Pacific Ocean with perhaps 80%RH and then run inland
where the RH for the same ambient temperature is only 30%.  For that matter,
what happens when the engine is run when the temperature equals the dew point
(fog in the air)?

I guess I have to pull out the books again and figure this out a molecular
level.

Cheers,

John


>Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 17:45:46 EDT
>From: A70Duster@aol.com
>Subject: Re: Vapor Pressure of Water
>
[snip]

>Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 11:55:50 +1000
>From: Stuart Baly <S.Baly@bom.gov.au>
>Subject: Re: Vapour Pressure
>


[snip]

>Cheers,
>Stuart Baly.
>Bureau of Meteorology, Australia.
>
>



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep 14 14:22:39 1999
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 11:22:29 -0700
From: "Clay Buccellato (Anthony)" <claybu@sr.hp.com>
Organization: RF sources
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Low impedance waste spark coils?
References: <199909140900.FAA10870@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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> We're currently using the Ford units for aircraft applications and haven't yet
> had problem that we are aware of.  Where did you hear that the insulation breaks
> down on the secondary side?  I'm currently dumping a 1.5uFd Cap sitting at 225V
> into it through a triac.  Works great.
> John

I heard of the secondary insulation deficiencies from Lance at
Speed-Pro, in regards to the GM coils he was using. He built his own CD
unit, and the coils sparked really well... for about five minutes. Do
you happen to know the primary winding impedance of the Ford coils you
have?

I believe some of the aftermarket systems drive as high as 470V into a
0.1 - 0.2 ohm primary. I don't know the size of the capacitor.

What I'm looking for are "race" ignition coils with low primary
impedance, that are capable of being driven very hard by a high voltage
CD system. Also, I would like the well proven multi-spark feature (from
the coil driver unit, of course). Experience has shown me that hot
ignitions are well worth the effort. I want to make sure I purchase the
best components.

Electromotive has a nice waste-spark system with spark sorter, from
which they claim 120 millijoules spark energy, and a long spark
duration. Emotive coils are moderate-impedance (.3 - .4 ohms primary
side), and are switched 14V inductively. As a point of reference, the
Crane PS-92 coil has .2 ohms primary.

Have you looked into any coils other than the Ford units? What made you
select them? I take it you haven't tried driving them really hard with
an aftermarket CD box? (not that 225V isn't good for driving a coil, but
higher energy units have been built. I'm going racing, so I've gotta get
the really hot unit).
-- 
                                      -Clay

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep 14 20:32:33 1999
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From: "Alex C. Peper" <xxalexx@popd.ix.netcom.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 20:01:13 +0000
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Subject: Re: Bailey meter
In-reply-to: <199909140900.FAA10870@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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The Bailey A/F meter has a long history.
Was the meter to use 40's-70's before Horiba in 78
The one I used worked with pure H2 gas.
alex
>
> Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 13:49:21 -0600
> From: Scott Beltz <hollandl@earthlink.net>
> Subject: Bailey AFM-1 wide band O2 system for tuning (SpeedBrain)
> 
> Sorry for the cross post but I need input from anyone who has experience
> with wide band 02 systems especially the Bailey AFM-1. I am thinking
> about buying one because here in Denver the Dyno shops do not have a
> wide band systems. They only use the dynos to check for horsepower
> improvements. I have recently purchased a Speedbrain to fine tune my
> supercharged 5.8 SN95. I have been using Chris Johnson's chips for
> awhile but wanted more control of the system without having to re-burn
> and change chips. I have heard that there are some private individuals
> here in Denver that have wide bands for tuning there own cars but have
> not been able to talk with them yet. My question is with the quality of
> the Bailey AFM-1. This product is selling for about $1100 while the
> Lambda Meter and others are over $5000. Some information on the Bailey
> can be found on APE's WEB site. If anyone has experience with these Wide
> band systems please let me know what your thought are. I do not want to
> spend $5000+ for a system that with be used for my private use but also
> do not want to spend $1100 for a POS.
> 
> Any help will be appreciated, Thanks
> 
> Scott Beltz
> 
Alex C Peper
http://www.obd-2.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep 14 20:32:37 1999
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From: "Alex C. Peper" <xxalexx@popd.ix.netcom.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 20:01:13 +0000
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Subject: Re: humidity cal.
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//humidity equations units inHg and F

double satH20pres(double temp)
{
 double
 c[6]={-4.14483e-3,5.76645e-3,-6.32788e-5,2.12294e-6,-7.85415e-9,6.552
 63e-11};
 double q;
  q = poly( (double)temp,5,c);
  return (q);
 }

double Ferrel(double Tw, double Td, double Pb)
{
       double Pw,Pv,A;

       A = 3.67e-4 * ( (1+ (0.00064 * (Tw-32) ) ) );
       Pw = satH20pres(Tw);
       Pv = Pw-(A * Pb * (Td-Tw));
       return (Pv);
}

double absHum(double Tw, double Td, double Pb)
{
 double H,Pv;

 Pv = Ferrel(Tw,Td,Pb);
 H = (4347.8 * Pv) / (Pb - Pv);
 return (H);
 }

double HumCf(double Tw, double Td, double Pb)
{
 double H,Kh;

       H = absHum(Tw,Td,Pb);
       Kh = 1/( 1- ( 0.0047 * (H-75) ) );
       return (Kh);
}

double relHum(double Tw, double Td, double Pb)
{
 double Pv, Pd,R;

 Pv = Ferrel(Tw,Td,Pb);
 Pd = satH20pres(Td);
 R = Pv / Pd * 100;
 return (R);
}

Alex C Peper
http://www.obd-2.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep 14 21:06:07 1999
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From: Stuart Baly <S.Baly@bom.gov.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Vapour Pressure
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 11:05:38 +1000
X-MS-Attachment: WINMAIL.DAT 0 00-00-1980 00:00
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>Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 09:00:56 -0700
>From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
>Subject: Vapor Pressure

[snip]

>But that does bring up an interesting point.  Al Grippo, in his paper 
where he
>shows how do derive pulse width,  aludes to 3.1Kpa correction for vapor 
pressure
>in the intake manifold, assuming 75% humidity and 85F temperature.  Now, 
 will
>this be the vapor pressure of the gasoline as it changes state from liquid 
into
>gas or water as it expands in the manifold?

At 85F and 75% RH, the water vapor pressure is indeed 3.1kPa. But I'd 
almost wager that in the manifold, the vapor pressure will be less than 
ambient i.e. it will be 3.1*(MAP/atmospheric pressure), given that water 
vapour is throttled just the same as the rest of the air.

[snip]

>In the Grippo (and Bowling) formulas the larger the vp the smaller the 
pulse
>width.  This probably implies that some of the pressure measured by the 
MAP
>sensor is due to water content vapor pressure and therefore there is less 
oxygen
>in the air charge for combustion and so less fuel is needed.  Question is, 
 how
>much of an impact would that really make if the fuel injection system is 
tuned
>sitting at the edge of the Pacific Ocean with perhaps 80%RH and then run 
inland
>where the RH for the same ambient temperature is only 30%.  For that 
matter,
>what happens when the engine is run when the temperature equals the dew 
point
>(fog in the air)?

This is something I hadn't thought of before.
e.g. at 0C, RH=60%, water vapour pressure=0.37 kPa
at 35C, RH=100%, water vapour pressure=5.6kPa
in other words, about 5% difference in the oxygen content of the air.
You don't actually need fog for the RH to be 100%. The RH will be 100%, or 
very close, every time it rains.

Cheers,

Stuart Baly.

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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 23:39:56 -0600
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The address for APE is: http://www.gothorsepower.com/


> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 11:12:27 -0700
> From: "Jacky" <yoshi@hotpop.com>
> Subject: Re: Bailey AFM-1
>
> What is the address for APE's web site?
>
> Jacky
>




From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep 15 02:47:06 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 16:51:27 +1000
From: Peter Gargano <peter@ntserver.techedge.com.au>
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Subject: Re: Low impedance waste spark coils?
References: <199909131900.PAA01937@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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> Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:46:07 -0700
> From: "Clay Buccellato (Anthony)" <claybu@sr.hp.com>
> Subject: Low impedance waste spark coils?
> 
> Does anyone know of a good source for hot, low impedance,
> distributorless coils?

I just got my (old 1500 flat 4) Alfa-Sud going with the two coils
from a HONDA CB1000 (from a motorcycle wrecker) using MJ10012 
driver transistors and an optical distributor (well, now just sensor)
of my own design. Each coil is mounted beside a head, so one plug
lead is about 3 inches long and the other is about 30 inches.

These coils are less than 4 ohms (does this constitute low 
impedance?) and are just perfect for the job. They are actually
made in Japan by "TEC" and have type number "FW82-TR1". The CB1000
assembly also had 2 nice brackets I used unmodified, and another 
requiring a bit of hacking. The mounting also acts as a heatsink,
although I don't think heat buildup would be a problem.

Interestingly, I seem to have a lot less AM RFI with this
setup (what? no-one listens to AM anymore!).

regards,
Peter Gargano

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep 15 12:06:26 1999
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Subject: Oops.... :)
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<< at 35C, RH=100%, water vapor pressure=5.6kPa
 in other words, about 5% difference in the oxygen content of the air. >>


Atmospheric pressure is ~101 kPa in which 21% is oxygen or 21 kPa (partial 
pressure).  This translates to 27% difference in the oxygen content of the 
air.  A big difference.

See ya,

Mike

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep 15 18:38:52 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 18:38:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@snurgle.org>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Electric Superchargers...
In-Reply-To: <199906231900.PAA07420@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Any sign of a non digest mode yet?

>From the "fluffy's stupid idea files"...

We've all (or many of us) heard/read about the "electric superchargers"
that have been marketed recently, these are devices which connect to the
intake and blow in air - but they are electric powered.  They typically
run for short bursts of time to provide just a little extra grunt when
needed, and usually on naturally aspirated engines, especially diesels.

Well, has anyone thought of doing this *right*?  Install additional
alternator capacity to support running the unit consistently.  Put in an
intercooler, etc. to support higher boost levels, like a real turbo.

Such a system has the following advantages:

1) More fuel efficient than a supercharger

2) Very little turbo lag

3) Very precise and simple control of boost (electronic control system can
directly vary impeller speed to control boost)
3.5) Knock sensor system can now reduce boost as a way of preventing
detonation!  Oh happy day.

4) No parasitic drag when not in operation; relatively little even under
boost

5) Can build boost on the line even with manual transmission, for drag
racing, or at low RPM, for road courses/autocross

6) Easy to install.  No need to fuss with the exhaust.

I can think of the following disadvantages:

1) Current electric superchargers may not have sufficient duty cycle
and/or airflow.

2) Alternator drag/battery drain may be more than I expect.

3) No kits available for this.  Do it all yourself.  Need an ECU that can
understand what's going on.

4) No one else is doing it, so there must be some obvious problem that I
haven't thought of.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep 15 23:56:08 1999
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Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 23:55:35 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
Subject: solid, port-able filler for intake manifold?
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Hi,

For my next silly question, I'm looking for some putty or clay like
material to fill in large areas of an intake manifold. Once it hardens
I want to be able to come back with grinding tools and reshape it.
The reason is that I am having, hopefully, a custom manifold fabbed
up, and (a) it's lots cheaper to have it made very rectangular, and
(b) it might take several tries to get the porting right.

I am thinking maybe J-B Weld, in case lots, or polyester resin. Any
and all suggestions and warnings would be appreciated!

   TIA,
   Chris C.


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep 16 08:33:48 1999
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Subject: Electric Superchargers
In-Reply-To: <199909160900.FAA17000@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu> from DIY_EFI Digest at "Sep 16, 1999 05:00:01 am"
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 05:33:44 -0700 (PDT)
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> Well, has anyone thought of doing this *right*?  Install additional
> alternator capacity to support running the unit consistently.  Put in an
> intercooler, etc. to support higher boost levels, like a real turbo.
> 
> Such a system has the following advantages:
> 
> 1) More fuel efficient than a supercharger

	How's that again?  How is a load from the alternator any different
from the load of a supercharger?

> 4) No parasitic drag when not in operation; relatively little even under
> boost

	See #1)
 
> I can think of the following disadvantages:
> 
> 1) Current electric superchargers may not have sufficient duty cycle
> and/or airflow.
> 
> 2) Alternator drag/battery drain may be more than I expect.

	Bingo!  The work to compress a gas is delta-(pV).  If you want
a small volume (low rpm) and small increase in pressure, fine, but a 10hp
electric motor would draw over 600A at 12V.  Not really practical.

> 4) No one else is doing it, so there must be some obvious problem that I
> haven't thought of.

	Yep, load is load whether from a supercharger or alternator.  
TANSTAAFL (There ain't no such thing as a free lunch)

	Bill

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep 16 09:24:58 1999
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From: "Rich Mauruschat" <rsrich@cwcom.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: solid, port-able filler for intake manifold?
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-----Original Message-----
From: DIY_EFI Digest <DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
To: DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: 16 September 1999 11:03
Subject: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #527


>Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 23:55:35 -0400
>From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
>Subject: solid, port-able filler for intake manifold?
>
>Hi,
>
>For my next silly question, I'm looking for some putty or clay like
>material to fill in large areas of an intake manifold. Once it hardens
>I want to be able to come back with grinding tools and reshape it.

Chris,
Try Devcon "Titanium Putty". They recommend this for aluminium as it has a
very similar coefficient of expansion over the temperature range involved.
They do a range of similar stuff for different conditions; it's not cheap,
but is supposed to do the job (and not fall out!).
www.devcon.com (predictably enough!)
good luck
Rich


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep 16 09:51:59 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 09:51:23 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: David Cooley <n5xmt@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Electric Superchargers...
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At 05:00 AM 9/16/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>We've all (or many of us) heard/read about the "electric superchargers"
>that have been marketed recently, these are devices which connect to the
>intake and blow in air - but they are electric powered.  They typically
>run for short bursts of time to provide just a little extra grunt when
>needed, and usually on naturally aspirated engines, especially diesels.


The only electric unit I had heard of was from a company called Powerdyne.
It isn't a supercharger, it's a motor that spins your turbo up a bit (not 
enough to make any measureable boost) to eliminate lag.


>Well, has anyone thought of doing this *right*?  Install additional
>alternator capacity to support running the unit consistently.  Put in an
>intercooler, etc. to support higher boost levels, like a real turbo.
>
>Such a system has the following advantages:
>
>1) More fuel efficient than a supercharger
>
>2) Very little turbo lag
>
>3) Very precise and simple control of boost (electronic control system can
>directly vary impeller speed to control boost)
>3.5) Knock sensor system can now reduce boost as a way of preventing
>detonation!  Oh happy day.
>
>4) No parasitic drag when not in operation; relatively little even under
>boost
>
>5) Can build boost on the line even with manual transmission, for drag
>racing, or at low RPM, for road courses/autocross
>
>6) Easy to install.  No need to fuss with the exhaust.

You don't get something for nothing, and nothing is 100% efficient or 
greater...
A typical automotive alternator is about 80% efficient at converting HP to 
electric power...
A typical electric motor is about 80-85% efficient at converting electric 
power to HP.
A typical blower takes 30-40 HP to make enough boost to be worthwhile... A 
turbo, while not as easily measured for HP drop (caused by exhaust 
restriction) is a bit more efficient.
For an electric motor to make 30-40 HP, it would take 37,300 watts of 
electrical energy (at 80% efficiency) which is 2825 Amps at 13.2 
volts...  For an alternator to replace this, if it had the capacity, it 
would take 62.5 HP...  The boost you make would probably give you a 30% 
increase in HP, so if you were 200 HP stock, your now at 260, but you're 
dumping 62.5 into running the boost...  You've actually dropped from 200 
available HP to 197.5 HP, plus the added penalty of 300-400 pounds in 
weight for the huge battery/alternator/motor combo.
If you want efficient, economical boost, Open the exhaust and insert a 
turbo... It operates on demand, cruising down the highway it has no effect 
on mileage and it's always there when you need it.
===========================================================
David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@bellsouth.net
Packet: N5XMT@KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068
We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated!
===========================================================


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep 16 09:57:51 1999
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From: Dylan Johnson <DJohnson@cancorpam.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: solid, port-able filler for intake manifold?
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 09:48:27 -0400
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Go to http://www.fibreglast.com/FillerPage.htm look for the glass
microspheres.You mix it with epoxy and it makes a nice paste that you
can sand/grind fairly easily.

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep 16 12:00:05 1999
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Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 16:05:42 +0200
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Electric Superchargers...
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You wrote:
>
> From the "fluffy's stupid idea files"...
>
> We've all (or many of us) heard/read about the "electric superchargers"
> that have been marketed recently, these are devices which connect to the
> intake and blow in air - but they are electric powered.  They typically
> run for short bursts of time to provide just a little extra grunt when
> needed, and usually on naturally aspirated engines, especially diesels.
>
> Well, has anyone thought of doing this *right*?  Install additional
> alternator capacity to support running the unit consistently.  Put in an
> intercooler, etc. to support higher boost levels, like a real turbo.
> [snip]
> 4) No one else is doing it, so there must be some obvious problem that I
> haven't thought of.

There is kit for two-stroke motorcycles (dirt bikes, IIRC) that uses a crank  
mounted centrifugal compressor and one or more "secondary" electrical  
compressors. As I understand it, the electrical compressors are always  
runnging, and can be tuned to the optimum pressure. I think the centrifugal  
compressor doubles as an air filter, by the way...

I tried to get in contact with the company to discuss its application on  
marine outboard engines, but never got a reply. (I have a weak spot in the  
power band due to rather extreme port timings.)

I guess the main problem with an all out electrical system is that you're  
likely to need a high voltage DC generator, rather than beefing up the  
existing 12 Volt system. You'll also have mechanical losses from driving the  
generator. These losses, in addition to the electrical losses, will probably  
be a fair bit greater than the losses in a fully mechanical system.

Therefore, I think using an electrical compressor for a secondary stage  
makes much more sense.

Regards,
John Hornkvist



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep 16 12:05:44 1999
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Hi All,

Correctomondo !!!

Supercharge your average 5 litre V8 and you will need approx
30 kW or 40 hp to drive the blower.

The alternator would need to be 20% bigger. say 36 kW.

the alternator and electric motor would be both heavier and larger
than the V8 engine they were driving.

They would also have losses in the energy conversion cycle
rotational to electricity and back again that would be in the order of

10%. A blower with a belt is more efficient.

Phil



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W I R E D   N E W S
- - - - - - - - - - -

The Little Engine that Might
 by Leander Kahney

Taking on the world's giant energy business, a tiny startup
is set to launch an engine that requires no fuel, produces
no pollution, and is free to run.

Naturally, the experts think it's too good to be true --
although they can't exactly say why.

Entropy Systems, a seven-person startup based in Youngstown,
Ohio, is scheduled to launch the Entropy engine early next
year, said the technology's inventor, Sanjay Amin, a
mechanical engineer and co-founder of the company.

The Entropy engine acts like a heat sponge, absorbing heat
in the atmosphere and converting it to power, Amin said.
Since it consumes no fossil fuels, nuclear fuels, or
electrical power, it produces no emissions, directly or
indirectly. Its only byproduct is cold air.

Initially, the technology will be used to create an outboard
motor for small pleasure boats, simply because it's the
easiest market to break into, Amin said. But as it is
developed, the technology could be used to run
refrigerators, air conditioners, generators -- even
automobiles.

"There's no reason it can't power a car," Amin said.

So far, Amin has built a prototype, which he said generates
one-tenth of one horsepower. The outboard motor -- yet to be
built -- will produce between two and three horsepower.

It will be roughly the same size as a conventional outboard
motor and only marginally more expensive. But, apart from
routine maintenance and lubrication, the engine will be free
to run.

Named after the unit in physics that describes the amount of
available energy in a system, the Entropy engine consists of
a central chamber, filled with air, that has a piston in the
center, Amin said.

The engine operates on a cycle. First, a starter motor spins
the engine to a high speed, which pushes the gas to the edge
of the central chamber, as in a centrifuge. As the gas moves
to the edge, it creates a partial vacuum in the center that
draws the piston out, compressing the gas.

In the second part of the cycle, the engine is slowed, and
the gas redistributes itself throughout the chamber, which
increases the pressure on the piston. Heat trapped in the
gas is converted into the energy that moves the piston,
which cools the air in the engine chamber.


The engine will run year-round in any climate, even in
sub-zero temperatures. Although it operates better in warmer
climates, it will work in any environment above absolute
zero (minus 273 degrees Celsius).

"In physical terms, even ice has a lot of heat," Amin said.

Amin claims to have patented the technology in the United
States, Australia, and Europe. He said he has published a
book on thermodynamics and in 1996 received an Engineer of
the Year award from the American Society of Engineers of
Indian Origin.

Always obsessed with engines, Amin built steam engines as a
teenager. He has devoted more than a decade to the Entropy
engine. He began by looking at gravity as a power source,
which eventually led to the idea of using atmospheric heat.

The technology was developed in part when Amin was studying
at Youngstown State University, which helped launch the
fledgling company.

 Bill Dunn, an associate professor of mechanical engineering
at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, said that
while he hasn't seen the engine in action, he has examined
the materials on Entropy's Web site. He said the logic
appears sound, but the outcome -- free power -- doesn't make
sense.

"It's the end result -- that you can create power from heat
at ambient temperature -- that flies in the face of the
basic laws of physics," said Dunn, who acknowledges that he
hasn't devoted time to figure out why the engine shouldn't
work.

"To track down where his thinking may be flawed is a
difficult thing to do," Dunn said.

In Amin's favor, Dunn noted that he has attracted backing
from "some very intelligent people."

Hedging his bets, Dunn said breakthrough technologies have
frequently been greeted with skepticism. "Every time someone
suggests something like this, you should at least give them
the benefit of an open mind."

Iain MacGill, an energy campaigner at Greenpeace, said that
because vehicle pollution makes up about a third of US
greenhouse gas emissions, a pollution-free engine would be
an incredible breakthrough. Nevertheless, it sounds to him
like fiction.

"It's got a flavor of 'too-good-to-be-true' about it," he
said. "I'm a wee bit skeptical."






From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep 16 14:11:25 1999
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #527
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 09:16:12 -0400
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The problem is that you needs lots of power to drive a supercharger, at
least 20 hp and more than 100 hp for big power.  The mechanical to electric
to mechanical conversion is not so efficient.  A 20 hp alternator and 20 hp
electric motor are really big and heavy and expensive.  A belt drive is way
better.  Heck, you can't even get an electric radiator fan to cool well
under severe conditions.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
>
> Well, has anyone thought of doing this *right*?  Install additional
> alternator capacity to support running the unit consistently.  Put in an
> intercooler, etc. to support higher boost levels, like a real turbo.
>



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep 16 18:14:24 1999
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 16 Sep 1999 16:53:03 CDT
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 13:01:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: O2 and water question
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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 I recently read some messages claiming O2 sensors could be damaged by
water in the exhaust stream.  Is this true?  Would it have to be liquid
water, or would steam be a problem?  I'm contemplating substantial water
injection to control detonation under boost; this is all going to go out
the exhaust valve as dry steam.
                                                                                                                         

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep 17 07:42:17 1999
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 13:41:52 +0200
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Nic van der Walt <nvdw@cellpt.co.za>
Subject: Newbie questions #438-443
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Jo

I'm designing the parts I'll have manufactured for my bike's
EFI manifold and have been wondering about a couple of things.

Is there a standard form factor for injectors that I can base
the design on? Can I for example design for a Bosch injector
and then be able to swap injectors around until I get a type
that works well? Anyone have any dimensioned drawing they are
willing to share?

I take it the dynamic range of an injector is determined by the following
parameters:
Minimum on time.
Maximum flow. ( Depends on maximum pressure and nozzle )
Maximum on time ( Depends on max RPM and duty cycle  <140uS for 14000rpm )

What is a reasonable minimum on time for an injector? The injector
will have to flow around 3.5l/h at WOT. How do I go about actually
buying something? Any brand to look out for? What is a good fuel
pressure to work at?

I intend referencing the the fuel pressure regulator from the surge
tank to ensure the pressure differential across the injector is 
independent of boost pressure. Is it then correct to assume the 
charge delivered for a given pulse width stays constant regardless
of actual boost?

The bike currently has four carbs. I have been considering using the carbs
as is, closing of all the ports and mounting the injector basically opposite
of where the main jet used to be. This makes the mechanical side of things
very 
simple and cheap, but places the injector at a right angle to the air flow. 
Will this affect anything? Should the tip of the injector protrude into the
airflow or not?

Thanks
Nic.

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep 17 11:59:30 1999
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From: William T Wilson <fluffy@snurgle.org>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #529
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On Fri, 17 Sep 1999, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:

>  I recently read some messages claiming O2 sensors could be damaged by
> water in the exhaust stream.  Is this true?  Would it have to be liquid
> water, or would steam be a problem?  I'm contemplating substantial water

I haven't heard of this.  Water is a combustion byproduct and comes out of
the exhaust in spades.

Just to be safe, it's probably best to keep liquid water away from the O2
sensor, but water vapor is safe.


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep 17 14:06:04 1999
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From: "Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: O2 and water question
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 11:05:28 -0700
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>  I recently read some messages claiming O2 sensors could be damaged by
> water in the exhaust stream.  Is this true?  Would it have to 
> be liquid
> water, or would steam be a problem?  I'm contemplating 
> substantial water
> injection to control detonation under boost; this is all 
> going to go out
> the exhaust valve as dry steam.

... given that one of the byproducts of the combustion process is water I
can't see why a bit more vapor from a water injection system would cause any
harm ...

Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep 17 16:12:55 1999
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> >  I recently read some messages claiming O2 sensors could be damaged by
> > water in the exhaust stream.  Is this true?  Would it have to be liquid
> > water, or would steam be a problem?  I'm contemplating substantial water
>

Water is a byproduct of combustion and inherently will be in the exhaust gas.
Perhaps what was being referred to was engine coolant, not water, which could
damage the sensor.

Bill Edgeworth


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep 17 23:45:27 1999
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #530
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 23:06:43 -0400
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No.  Constant delta P means constant fuel flow per unit time.  You still
need more fuel under boost.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
>
> I intend referencing the the fuel pressure regulator from the surge
> tank to ensure the pressure differential across the injector is
> independent of boost pressure. Is it then correct to assume the
> charge delivered for a given pulse width stays constant regardless
> of actual boost?
>



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep 18 04:15:07 1999
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Hi All,

I have just joined this list but have been a long term member of the
Mini-list (mini-list@autox.team.net) Somebody on the Mini list (Tom Parker)
recomended you guys as to help with a problem I have and to increase my
general knowledge of Injection systems.

I don't know how much actual Mini related stuff you guys know but here is
some basic info which should help... What I have is a multi point injection
system on a Rover A series engine which is a 4 piston 1275cc with a 5 port
(2 inlet 3 exhaust) head the ECU has the following sensors,

Crank postion,
Cam shaft postion,
MAP sensor,
Engine coolant temperature,
Intake air temperature,
Throttle postion (potentiometer mounted on the throttle body)

It uses and IACV (idle air control valve) which bypasses the throttle valve
to control the idle speed.

My problem is this. With the engine warm it tends to miss fire a little at
idle and the pick up from idle is not instananious, it sounds as tho it
pinks slightly then picks up. It is also blowing oil from the filler cap
but I have checked the breather system (uses manifold depression but also
has a connection to the filter side of the throttle body too) and all the
hoses/oil seperators are clear. 

I look forward to learning as much from this this as I have from the Mini
list... I looks like I am going to be looking after this mini for a long
time.... 

Ade

Lamb Chop 1989 heavily modified mini (Carb)
Truffles 1997 Mpi Rover Cooper Sport (my Girl Friends)
Situated in Southampton UK

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep 18 08:06:54 1999
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 08:06:16 EDT
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #527
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Chris C. wrote;


For my next silly question, I'm looking for some putty or clay like
material to fill in large areas of an intake manifold. Once it hardens
I want to be able to come back with grinding tools and reshape it.
The reason is that I am having, hopefully, a custom manifold fabbed
up, and (a) it's lots cheaper to have it made very rectangular, and
(b) it might take several tries to get the porting right.

I am thinking maybe J-B Weld, in case lots, or polyester resin. Any
and all suggestions and warnings would be appreciated!
 
Chris,
 You didn't say if the manifold was aluminium or cast iron so, Devcon makes a 
two part epoxy aluminium filler that is machinable and you can drill and tap. 
It makes a very good bond to clean material. I have used it on several 
manifolds  and found no problems with it. If you are working on cast iron 
Devcon makes an epoxy for it also.
Another great product for  working on cylinder heads is Belzona Molecular but 
its expensive. Try your local W.P.&R.S. Mars Co., MSC or industrial shops, 
machinists use this stuff too.
   Good Luck    Wayne 

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep 18 18:21:23 1999
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 18:20:46 EDT
Subject: Intake port bondo; was digest
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Hi Chris,
May be more expensive, but I've had great luck with Moroso "A&B Epoxy"..
Summit has it for $20 something..  Comes in two big sticks about 8 inches long
each. Mix equal parts and shape like clay.   Use it in intake ports of heads 
as wel as in intakes. shapes easy..  Grinds easier..  Don't use it on exhaust 
side.. 8-)
Could get ugly.
MV
> 
>  I am thinking maybe J-B Weld, in case lots, or polyester resin. Any
>  and all suggestions and warnings would be appreciated!

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep 18 21:43:33 1999
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Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 21:42:57 EDT
Subject: TPS fuel enrichment strategy. How implement rate of change
To: gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu,
        Phxsys3@aol.com
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I have a project where I want to provide some additional fuel. I need some 
help with a TPS rate of change (ROC) function. 

How does GM EFI  calculate the rate of change on the TPS? 
What is the TPS strategy for adding fuel? 
What conditions activate the TPS fuel enrichment?

I have written some code reads the TPS in a timing loop. it accumulates  the 
difference between increasing values, the result is  a 0-255 value. 

Does anyone know what  GM's TPS sample rate is for  calculating ROC?

My main concern is the timing of the whole procedure. If I detect rapid 
throttle advance, can I ...?

1. Add a percentange of fuel  (calculation directly proportional rate of 
change value)
2. Engage a sustain period also based on TPS rate of change (ROC) value

...without re-sampling the TPS ROC value during the enrichment period.  This 
means that the TPS would not be sampled again until the sustain period is 
finished. 
I am trying to keep it simple.

Can you see any serious problems with this strategy?

Thanks in advance

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep 19 01:44:08 1999
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From: "Alex C. Peper" <xxalexx@ix.netcom.com>
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Subject: Re: electric boost
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Use only for a few secs. during accell.  then charge when cruising,
regenerative braking. ultra capcitors and or thermoelectric.
Alex
> 
> We've all (or many of us) heard/read about the "electric superchargers"
> that have been marketed recently, these are devices which connect to the
> intake and blow in air - but they are electric powered.  They typically
> run for short bursts of time to provide just a little extra grunt when
> needed, and usually on naturally aspirated engines, especially diesels.
> 
> Well, has anyone thought of doing this *right*?  Install additional
> alternator capacity to support running the unit consistently.  Put in an
> intercooler, etc. to support higher boost levels, like a real turbo.
> 
> Such a system has the following advantages:
> 
> 1) More fuel efficient than a supercharger
> 
> 2) Very little turbo lag
> 
> 3) Very precise and simple control of boost (electronic control system can
> directly vary impeller speed to control boost)
> 3.5) Knock sensor system can now reduce boost as a way of preventing
> detonation!  Oh happy day.
> 
> 4) No parasitic drag when not in operation; relatively little even under
> boost
> 
> 5) Can build boost on the line even with manual transmission, for drag
> racing, or at low RPM, for road courses/autocross
> 
> 6) Easy to install.  No need to fuss with the exhaust.
> 
> I can think of the following disadvantages:
> 
> 1) Current electric superchargers may not have sufficient duty cycle
> and/or airflow.
> 
> 2) Alternator drag/battery drain may be more than I expect.
> 
> 3) No kits available for this.  Do it all yourself.  Need an ECU that can
> understand what's going on.
> 
> 4) No one else is doing it, so there must be some obvious problem that I
> haven't thought of.
> 
>
Alex C Peper
http://www.obd-2.com

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep 19 02:55:00 1999
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From: "Rich Mauruschat" <rsrich@cwcom.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #530
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>DIY_EFI Digest       Friday, September 17 1999       Volume 04 : Number 530
>Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 13:41:52 +0200
>From: Nic van der Walt <nvdw@cellpt.co.za>
>Subject: Newbie questions #438-443
>
>Jo
>
>I'm designing the parts I'll have manufactured for my bike's
>EFI manifold and have been wondering about a couple of things.
>Is there a standard form factor for injectors that I can base
>the design on? Can I for example design for a Bosch injector
>and then be able to swap injectors around until I get a type
>that works well? Anyone have any dimensioned drawing they are
>willing to share?

I have a scale drawing of the Bosch pattern (o-ring both ends) injector in
Autocad .dwg format which I produced whilst doing something similar to
yourself. It isn't dimensioned, but I guess I  could add some critical
dimensions and output in a different format if neccessary.

>What is a reasonable minimum on time for an injector? The injector
>will have to flow around 3.5l/h at WOT. How do I go about actually
>buying something? Any brand to look out for? What is a good fuel
>pressure to work at?

If you haven't already, have a look at
http://www.vectorbd.com/peugeot/bosch.html
There is a whole heap of useful links there relating to Bosch stuff,
including lists of injector data (includes other types, Lucas, Nippon etc).

>The bike currently has four carbs. I have been considering using the carbs
>as is, closing of all the ports and mounting the injector basically
opposite
>of where the main jet used to be. This makes the mechanical side of things
>very
>simple and cheap, but places the injector at a right angle to the air flow.
>Will this affect anything?

I think it's generally considered a bad thing to inject across the airflow
path like this, there is a tendency to chuck fuel at the port walls which
then condenses; this is much worse an effect at low speeds obviously. The
Group B Rover Metro 6R4 (V6 quad cam, lots of rpm) used just this
arrangement, that obviously worked OK, produced good power. They were not
concerned about low speed behaviour or fuel consumption or emmissions.
The carbies don't suffer the same problem of course, as the airflow draws
fuel off the main jet in the direction of flow.

>Thanks
>Nic.

hope this helps, let me know on the injector drawing.
Rich M


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep 19 04:01:51 1999
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From: "TT" <mhros@tin.it>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: chksum opel omega 2.0 16v
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 1999 15:04:14 +0200
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please request information of eprom of opel omega 2000 16v 5wk9071 with =
chksum c3e8 of siemens regard chksum and table of ignition and injection
many thanks giuseppe italy

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>please request information of eprom of =
opel omega=20
2000 16v 5wk9071 with chksum c3e8 of siemens regard chksum and table of =
ignition=20
and injection</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>many thanks giuseppe=20
italy</FONT></DIV></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep 19 04:12:40 1999
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From: Tristan Dresch <sac49091@saclink.csus.edu>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #531
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Hello folks, I'm new to this list and before I waste anyone's time, is 
there any recomended books I could purchase that would educate me about 
EFI systems. I have read the books in the local book stores but they are 
not technical enough. I was looking for very technical data on EFI. I 
have a XR4ti which uses a '89 Ford EEC-IV which will be my focus. Also, I 
desire to run the same system on a '70 Spitfire and would like to learn 
all the information that will allow me to fine tune these systems.
Thank you for your time, Cris

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep 19 15:19:52 1999
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From: "Alan Smith" <alansmith@btinternet.com>
To: "DIY-EFI" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Motronic 1.5  chip help wanted
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 20:21:27 +0100
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I am trying to disassemble a Motronic M1.5 ECU from a 1990 Vauxhall =
Cavalier.

The ECU is based around an 80515 processor.

The disassembled code doesn't make much sense. I think it may have =
something to do with address translations between the 80515 and the =
27256 eprom. There is a 68 pin chip made by Harris which I think may be =
involved. Does anybody know anything about this ECU ?

I would also appreciate help in identifying the chips in the ECU, in =
particular the injector drivers.

If anybody has any M1.5 bin files I'd appreciate a copy to look at.

Alan Smith

=20

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I am trying to disassemble a Motronic M1.5 ECU from =
a 1990=20
Vauxhall&nbsp;Cavalier.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The ECU is based around an 80515 =
processor.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The&nbsp;disassembled code doesn't make much sense.=20
I&nbsp;think it may have something to do with address translations =
between the=20
80515 and the 27256&nbsp;eprom. There is a 68 pin chip made by Harris =
which I=20
think may be involved. Does anybody know anything about this ECU =
?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I would also appreciate help in identifying the =
chips in the=20
ECU, in particular the injector drivers.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If anybody has any M1.5 bin files I'd appreciate a =
copy to=20
look at.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Alan Smith</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep 19 15:22:13 1999
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Subject: Re: Motronic 1.5  chip help wanted
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 12:22:10 -0700 (PDT)
In-Reply-To: <004d01bf02d4$2d009b40$313cac3e@alansmit> from "Alan Smith" at Sep 19, 99 08:21:27 pm
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> I am trying to disassemble a Motronic M1.5 ECU from a 1990 Vauxhall =
> Cavalier.

> The ECU is based around an 80515 processor.

> The disassembled code doesn't make much sense. I think it may have =
> something to do with address translations between the 80515 and the =
> 27256 eprom. There is a 68 pin chip made by Harris which I think may be =
> involved. Does anybody know anything about this ECU ?

Go look in the archives... search on "land shark".  That should pull
up some motronic info.

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep 19 21:10:36 1999
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From: "Bob Groger" <monitorguy@mail.eagleserver.com>
To: <DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: TPI to Vortec conversion
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 18:06:23 -0700
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Does anyone have any insight into putting a 87-up TPI manifold on the L31
Vortec heads? Seems like the best deal around at $400\pair complete. I have
heard the ports are raised .100, and the bolt holes are now vertical. Can it
be done with minimal work?

Bob Groger
TPI 350\Mercedes SEL Project


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep 20 07:02:19 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 06:59:25 -0400
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
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Subject: Re: TPI to Vortec conversion
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> Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 18:06:23 -0700
> From: "Bob Groger" <monitorguy@mail.eagleserver.com>
> Subject: TPI to Vortec conversion
> 
> Does anyone have any insight into putting a 87-up TPI manifold on the L31
> Vortec heads? Seems like the best deal around at $400\pair complete. I have
> heard the ports are raised .100, and the bolt holes are now vertical. Can it
> be done with minimal work?
> 
> Bob Groger
> TPI 350\Mercedes SEL Project


It's probably not a good match.  The raised ports of the heads make it
difficult to find manifolds which seal along the top.  Then the bolt
holes for the intake are at a different location, and drilling and
tapping the heads puts the manifold end bolts in some very thin
material.  I have a set of these heads on a 67 Chevelle, and the
options that I think are viable are LT1 or LT4 intake, with
modifications for coolant to pass through the front of the intake, or
Edelbrock or Holley intake.  Holley sells an intake manifold with port
injectors installed.  Here's the picture. 
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/AV/FMS/FMSFI/99-150.html

It would be nice to match these manifolds to a long runner intake. 
The tpi cars have gobs of torque compared to the LT1 versions.  But
then again, when ya use rpm to gain hp, that's the trade you make.

I looked up that Holley system, here's the price I found:
http://store.summitracing.com/express.asp?ssid=7BV6M46XYKRL6BINJKEBQWOONJ&vendor=hly&sku=99-150

Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep 20 08:23:27 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 08:23:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #531
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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 the problem is if liquid water hits the sensor the element
inside can shatter ( remember also that there is a passage 
to the outside from the element) 


Previously, you (DIY_EFI Digest) wrote:

{ 
{ > >  I recently read some messages claiming O2 sensors could be damaged by
{ > > water in the exhaust stream.  Is this true?  Would it have to be liquid
{ > > water, or would steam be a problem?  I'm contemplating substantial water
{ >
{ 
{ Water is a byproduct of combustion and inherently will be in the exhaust gas.
{ Perhaps what was being referred to was engine coolant, not water, which could
{ damage the sensor.
{ 
{ Bill Edgeworth


--
Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terrence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep 20 10:04:37 1999
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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 10:03:36 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ernst denBroeder <edenbroe@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: TPI to Vortec conversion
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>
> Does anyone have any insight into putting a 87-up TPI manifold on the L31
> Vortec heads? Seems like the best deal around at $400\pair complete. I have
> heard the ports are raised .100, and the bolt holes are now vertical. Can it
> be done with minimal work?
>
> Bob Groger
> TPI 350\Mercedes SEL Project


Bob,

These heads will and do work with the TPI intakes.  All you need to do is drill
and tap some bolt holes in each head.  I follow the conversations on
www.thirdgen.org (for Firebird, Camaro owners) and there are lots of people
there with first hand experience with this conversion.  I remember reading once
on that site that there is a company that sells modified Vortec heads for TPI
applications...  but you'll have to ask around on that site because I don't
remember the name of the company.

Hope that helps you some.
Ernst denBroeder



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep 20 10:50:06 1999
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From: Mike Rolica <mrolica@meridian-mag.com>
To: "'gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Vss on 165 ecm help!
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 10:42:20 -0400
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I have one last thing to solve on my tpi s10 project.  I have a mech
operated speedo and the prom is for 89 firebird 350 tpi   (apyu)  It has one
wire -Brown for the vss.
With the ign on I have 13v nothing connected.  I've tried the optical type
but most I find are bunt out and I believe they are only dc pulse.  What do
I need to send to the ecm?  What is it looking for in detail.  I have and
inline gen. used on my 84 jeep grand wagoneer.  On my fluke meter it reads
4v ac.  how can I make this work?   And I am sure I will shoot someone if
they start telling me to modify the code of go buy something from JTR. ;-)

thanks, Mike R

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep 20 11:28:43 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 01:28:04 +1000
From: Phil Lamovie <phil@injec.com>
Organization: Injec Racing
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Here's one that may appeal to the laptop ECU movement.

Here's the short...

 Last year, Cygnus Solutions unveiled a new initiative called eCos
(embedded
Cygnus operating system). eCos is available as both open source and
royalty free. Today, eCos has been downloaded by well over 10,000
developers. Why didn't Cygnus choose Linux as its open-source
real-time alternative? This article will compare and contrast these
two alternatives and explain why each can have a place in your
real-time solution.

Here's the long.

 http://207.178.22.52/lj-issues/issue66/3576.html

Phil
Injec Racing


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep 20 11:34:30 1999
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From: "Rich Mauruschat" <rsrich@cwcom.net>
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>DIY_EFI Digest       Monday, September 20 1999       Volume 04 : Number 534
>Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 20:21:27 +0100
>From: "Alan Smith" <alansmith@btinternet.com>
>Subject: Motronic 1.5  chip help wanted
>If anybody has any M1.5 bin files I'd appreciate a copy to look at.

Alan,
I have a couple of eprom images, one is for SRi (130hp 20SEH engine), the
other I think is for the 115hp 20NE engine. Any help?

Rich


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep 20 13:15:49 1999
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Subject: Trying to switch to non-digest WON'T WORK
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu (DIY EFI List)
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 10:15:43 -0700 (PDT)
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I've been getting a few requests for addresses that are
on the digest.  Everyone is on the digest at the moment.
Requests to diy_efi are automatically converted to diy_efi-digest.
This is to save load on the server and unless someone offers
us free bandwidth to relay the mail, it will stay that way.

Orin, list admin.


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep 20 18:17:42 1999
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> Date: Sun, 19 Sep 1999 01:12:36 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Tristan Dresch <sac49091@saclink.csus.edu>
> Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #531
> 
> Hello folks, I'm new to this list and before I waste anyone's time, is
> there any recomended books I could purchase that would educate me about
> EFI systems. I have read the books in the local book stores but they are
> not technical enough. I was looking for very technical data on EFI. I
> have a XR4ti which uses a '89 Ford EEC-IV which will be my focus. Also, I
> desire to run the same system on a '70 Spitfire and would like to learn
> all the information that will allow me to fine tune these systems.
> Thank you for your time, Cris

Chris, look around on the diy_Efi page
(efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/diy_efi) and you'll find the efi reference
page.  Lots of books listed, some with comments.  When you read all of
them and need more there's also a list of SAE papers.  enjoy.

--steve



-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

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From: "dave" <dave@powertrain.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: UEGO Air-fuel ratio meter
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 19:28:39 -0000
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9/20/99

I see after looking at the archive data list there is an interest in =
monitoring air-fuel ratio accurately.  This is not an easy task without =
the proper sensor and electronic controller.  Just as important is the =
data output and the ability to calibrate the system daily without =
special calibration gas.

If anyone is interested in locating a real wide ratio air-fuel ratio =
meter, read on.  The monitor is called AFM1000  from Powertrain =
Electronics Co.  This monitor uses the NTK UEGO sensor and the signal =
output is a linearized  0 to 5 volts for direct accurate air-fuel data.  =
Also this monitor can be calibrated by holding the sensor in air and =
adjusting the electronics.  This monitor is produced in by a well known =
analyzer company and is complete with a full years warranty.  The cost =
is around $2000 but can be discounted when purchased for educational =
use.

Inquiries can be directed to Powertrain Electronics via e-mailed at =
info@powertrain.net or reached directly at 805-466-5252.  You can also =
view the product on the web site:  powertrain.net
 =20

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><FONT =
size=3D4>9/20/99</FONT></FONT><FONT=20
size=3D4></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D4></FONT></FONT><FONT=20
size=3D4></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D4>I see after looking at the =
archive data=20
list there is an interest in monitoring air-fuel ratio accurately.&nbsp; =
This is=20
not an easy task without the proper sensor and electronic =
controller.&nbsp; Just=20
as important is the data output and the ability to calibrate the system =
daily=20
without special calibration gas.</FONT></FONT><FONT =
size=3D4></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D4></FONT></FONT><FONT=20
size=3D4></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D4>If anyone is interested in =
locating a real=20
wide ratio air-fuel ratio meter, read on.&nbsp; The monitor is called=20
AFM1000&nbsp; from Powertrain Electronics Co.&nbsp; This monitor uses =
the NTK=20
UEGO sensor and the signal output is a linearized&nbsp; 0 to 5 volts for =
direct=20
accurate air-fuel data.&nbsp; Also this monitor can be calibrated by =
holding the=20
sensor in air and adjusting the electronics.&nbsp; This monitor is =
produced in=20
by a well known analyzer company and is complete with a full years=20
warranty.&nbsp; The cost is around $2000 but can be discounted when =
purchased=20
for educational use.</FONT></FONT><FONT size=3D4></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D4></FONT></FONT><FONT=20
size=3D4></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D4>Inquiries can be directed to =
Powertrain=20
Electronics via e-mailed at <A=20
href=3D"mailto:info@powertrain.net">info@powertrain.net</A> or reached =
directly at=20
805-466-5252.&nbsp; You can also view the product on the web site:&nbsp; =

powertrain.net</FONT></FONT><FONT size=3D4></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" =
size=3D4>&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep 20 23:57:33 1999
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Message-ID: <37E701A1.B9BBB0C0@bigplanet.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 22:55:14 -0500
From: "Scott, A. Pearson" <mrcad472@bigplanet.com>
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To: EFI <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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   Please read this with some understanding.... I am new to attempting
to designing electronic systems.
  I would like to build a system of distributorless igniton mostly using
readily available OEM parts (I'm a broke college student) for my 76
Cadillac 500 that I am in the process of installing in my truck. I read
(but did not  understand) exactly how Peter Gargano fired (is that the
right word?) the Honda CBR coils with the MJ10012 transisitors. Also how
would I go about designing a circut using these transistors and the
optical sensor to fire a coil pack on my big Cadillac motor?
  Also, does anyone have any suggestions for a good TBI that I can build
from mostly junkyard parts?

Scott


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep 21 00:23:04 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 00:22:26 EDT
Subject: Re: holly projection wire color
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Hi all.
 Dose any one know what color wires go to power,ground,temp sensor?
I picked up a projection analog to put on my trailer puller, a 454 gmc dully.
I know its junk btw its better than a q-jet.thanks

Jim crance

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep 21 08:29:27 1999
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Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 07:31:42 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, 61-79-list@ford-trucks.com
Subject: **Help with Ford 300 I-6 FI**
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Greetings.  I have recently become the proud owner of a 1978 F-250 with the
tried and true 300 inline-six.  
It's current factory-stock fuel & emissions specs:

A.  Carter YF-1V 1-bbl. carb.  (unsure of CFM)
B.  NO SMOG EQUIPMENT - that's correct, lads & lasses - NONE, not even EGR
or catalytic converters!  It does have a PCV valve (does that qualify as
smog equipment?), but, at the time the truck was built, it was considered a
WORK truck, rather than a passenger vehicle, hence the absence of smog equip.

I heard that Ford put out a fuel-injected version of this engine.  True?
If so, would junkyard browsing be my best bet for locating the necessary
setup, and is this the most prudent way to go, or is there someone out
there with a better suggestion?

I'm an ex-USN electronics tech, and am not afraid of breaking out ye olde
DMM and soldering iron, although I'll admit that digital wasn't my strong
point.

I live in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, and my quest is to improve the following:

A.  Drivability - throttle response is not exactly linear at the moment -
there are a couple weak spots/stumbles as I depress the gas pedal.

B.  Emissions - it failed a previous IM240 smog check, mostly due to high
HC and CO 
(a rich fuel/air ratio was the cause, I believe).  Beyond just being able
to pass the sniffer, I live in a high-population-density area, and I'd like
to do my part to decrease emissions as much as possible without severely
depleting my bank account.

C.  Winter startup/pre-full-operating-temperature drivability - it has a
manual choke installed by previous owner - he told me that they don't make
the proper thermostatic coils for this particular carb anymore.  This is
pretty much a non-issue to me, but if I had my druthers, I'd rather have a
computer take care of this.  (My techie streak showing through. :))

D.  Economy - currently, with 295,000 miles on her (mostly highway), she is
getting 13.9 mpg with 87 octane unleaded.  I assume that this isn't out of
line for a truck with this many miles, but I have a hunch that it can do
better.  Previous owner performed a compression check, and told me that all
cylinders were within 10-15 psi of each other.
(I assume that this is within spec.)

Thanks in advance to all!

Geoff

[][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][]
             G. Turk
Microsoft Certified Professional
   Windows NT Workstation 4.0
[][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][]

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep 21 11:22:20 1999
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From: "Robert W. Hughes" <rwhughe@ev1.net>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, JCsDOOR@aol.com
Subject: Re: holly projection wire color
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>  Dose any one know what color wires go to power,ground,temp sensor?
> I picked up a projection analog to put on my trailer puller, a 454 gmc dully.
> I know its junk btw its better than a q-jet.thanks
These are the colors for the 502-1 Pro-jection which is the early analog
version:
Power connector
bundle1
red	center hole of injector connector
red	center hole of injector connector
orange	outside hole of injector connector
violet	outside hole of injector connector

single wires
red	+12v switched
white	- side of ignition coil (tach terminal on HEI)

bundle2
red	fuel pump connector-A
green	fuel pump connector-B

Sensor cable
black	TPS-A
blue	TPS-B
gray	TPS-C these three are same length with pins installed, should 	
already be in TPS connector if unit is used
black	ground - this one should have ring terminal on it
brown	temp sensor
yellow	idle solenoid
pink	crank terminal of starter solenoid

polarity is important to fuel pump. Violet wire of cable goes to +
terminal on pump, green wire goes to -. Note that Holley cleverly use
different colors on each side of the connector.
-- 
Robert W. Hughes (Bob)
BackYard Engineering
Houston, Texas
rwhughe@ev1.net

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep 21 12:52:14 1999
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From: Mike Rolica <mrolica@meridian-mag.com>
To: "Do It Yourself Efi (E-mail)" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        "Gmecm (E-mail)" <gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: FW: Vss on 165 ecm help!
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 12:46:23 -0400
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Tanks :-) you guys are a lot of help!
Helped get vats bypassed, works great!
Now just vss!
I would like to get a eprom burner/eraser but I need more background
knowledge on code, hexadecimal, prog ect  I'm embarssed to admit it but prog
101 was a little over my head.  I'm good with tuning, how engine works, vol
eff. Spark curve/cyl pressure vs rpm.
Mike

Hi Mike
With the 89 165 ecm calibration methinks it needs a 2000 ppm open collector
drive.
If the led speedo drive is 0-12 volts then couple it via a 10k resistor to
the base of a 3904, tie the emitter to gnd and use the collector to drive
the 165 ecm.
gl:peter


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep 21 20:08:27 1999
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From: "Ezra Hall" <ehall@together.net>
To: <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: UEGO for $2000, discount?
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 20:05:19 -0400
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Has anyone contacted Powertrain to obtain the educational discount? If so,
how much of a discount is it?
Thanks,
 Ezra  (with NTK sensor but no time to develop controller for it at the
moment)


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep 22 00:30:15 1999
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Subject: Scratch built EFI
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 1999 21:30:02 -0700
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Warning long post:
I have been lurking on the EFI forum for a while and was hoping if you guys would help me.
I am an race engine builder of old and have worked on everything from Topfuel and blown
alcohol rails to Pro gas, and realize from my lurking that I'm clueless to this electronic
stuff. For once I feel pretty much lost in a field I usually feel comfortable in.
I'm hoping you can help me with a project I'm trying to build. What I have are two engine
(2100cc VW, and 190 C.I.. Corvair) both converted for aircraft use. I'm using a Ellison
throttle body type injection system designed for aircraft use and expensive but good. I
want to build a fuel injection system that's simply, light, reliable, and inexpensive that
I could build for each one of these engines.
But I don't know where to start I see all this MAF, VAF, DFI, PWM stuff and I'm again
lost. I would like some help with this and wondered if you guys would be willing to help
me or point me in the direction of someone that could or a good book or place to start.

I have collected a few web sites on FI and wondered if anyone of you might send me your
library of sites so I can start this process. Digital seems the lightest and least complex
from today's technology, any thoughts?

Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!

 David L. Hiatt
Auburn, Washington
98092


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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#800080 face=3DTahoma><U>Warning long =
post:</U></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DTahoma>I have been lurking on the EFI forum for a =
while and was=20
hoping if you guys would help me. I am an race engine builder of old and =
have=20
worked on everything from Topfuel and blown alcohol rails to Pro gas, =
and=20
realize from my lurking that I'm clueless to this electronic stuff. For =
once I=20
feel pretty much lost in a field I usually feel comfortable =
in.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DTahoma>I'm hoping you can help me with a project I'm =
trying to=20
build. What I have are two engine (2100cc VW, and 190 C.I.. Corvair) =
both=20
converted for aircraft use. I'm using a Ellison throttle body type =
injection=20
system designed for aircraft use and expensive but good. I want to build =
a fuel=20
injection system that's simply, light, reliable, and inexpensive that I =
could=20
build for each one of these engines. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DTahoma>But I don't know where to start I see all this =
MAF, VAF,=20
DFI, PWM stuff and I'm again lost. I would like some help with this and =
wondered=20
if you guys would be willing to help me or point me in the direction of =
someone=20
that could or a good book or place to start.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DTahoma>I have collected a few web sites on FI and =
wondered=20
if&nbsp;anyone of you might send me your library of sites so I can start =
this=20
process. Digital seems the lightest and least complex from today's =
technology,=20
any thoughts?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3DTahoma><U>Any and all help will be =
greatly=20
appreciated!</U></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DTahoma><SPAN class=3D791580602-22091999><FONT =
color=3D#0000ff=20
face=3DArial size=3D2>&nbsp;</FONT></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DTahoma><SPAN class=3D791580602-22091999><FONT =
color=3D#0000ff=20
face=3DArial size=3D2>&nbsp;</FONT></SPAN>David L. Hiatt<BR>Auburn,=20
Washington<BR>98092<BR></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0044_01BF0478.76918C60--


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep 22 05:58:39 1999
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From: Tristan Dresch <sac49091@saclink.csus.edu>
Subject: OEM car ECU on motorcycle
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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	Hello all, I have tried to read as much as I could find from the 
archives and the library but I still don't know... Can I pull an entire 
EFI system with the ECU and adapt it too my 600cc motorcycle engine? It 
seems that so much can be done but I don't know my head from my arse when 
it concerns electronics and computers.
 If this can be done, what is the best way to do this? I was thinking of 
just going to a wrecking yard and pulling the entire system off another 4 
cylinder car. The manufacture doesn't matter I just want maximum 
performance, thank you in advance for any help.
Cris

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep 22 08:58:03 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 07:54:34 -0500
From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
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> Warning long post:
> I have been lurking on the EFI forum for a while and was hoping if you guys would help me.
> I am an race engine builder of old and have worked on everything from Topfuel and blown
> alcohol rails to Pro gas, and realize from my lurking that I'm clueless to this electronic
> stuff. For once I feel pretty much lost in a field I usually feel comfortable in.
> I'm hoping you can help me with a project I'm trying to build. What I have are two engine
> (2100cc VW, and 190 C.I.. Corvair) both converted for aircraft use. I'm using a Ellison
> throttle body type injection system designed for aircraft use and expensive but good. I
> want to build a fuel injection system that's simply, light, reliable, and inexpensive that
> I could build for each one of these engines.
> But I don't know where to start I see all this MAF, VAF, DFI, PWM stuff and I'm again
> lost. I would like some help with this and wondered if you guys would be willing to help
> me or point me in the direction of someone that could or a good book or place to start.
> 
> I have collected a few web sites on FI and wondered if anyone of you might send me your
> library of sites so I can start this process. Digital seems the lightest and least complex
> from today's technology, any thoughts?
> 
> Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!

Hi David, have you looked around on the diy_efi WWW page?  There are
definitions of those acronyms there, plus an archive that goes back to
the very beginning that you can search.  Plus links to other sites,
lists of books, SAE papers, etc.  There's some learning curve, but it
won't be long before you're throwing acronyms around with the best.

Can you turn off sending HTML mail in your mail program?  That's where
the stuff below comes from, and it just takes up space in the archive.

--steve

> 
>  David L. Hiatt
> Auburn, Washington
> 98092
> 
> - ------=_NextPart_000_0044_01BF0478.76918C60
> Content-Type: text/html;
>         charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> 
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> <HTML><HEAD>
> <META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
> http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
> <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
> <STYLE></STYLE>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT color=3D#800080 face=3DTahoma><U>Warning long =
> post:</U></FONT></DIV>

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep 22 10:38:48 1999
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From: Mike Rolica <mrolica@meridian-mag.com>
To: "Do It Yourself Efi (E-mail)" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        "Gmecm (E-mail)" <gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Right now I'm running a 165 ECM APYU chip on a mod L98. Cam is 271 adv. 218@
50 112 lsa and 520 lift.
Head are al. AFR 190cc.  I'm wondering if there is any gain (i.e. hp/mpg
etc) going to an after market system i.e. electromotive accell or even
switching to speed density system.  Or if there is something custom that can
be built.
Mike Rolica
EXT. 260
 :-)


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep 22 10:56:46 1999
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From: "Clint Svensrud" <clintsven@sk.sympatico.ca>
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Subject: Accel DFI
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Hi I am new to this list, I go by the name Clint . I have made a payment on
an Accel DFI for my 81 Datsun 2.8L turbo intercoolered straight six . I have
a diploma in Mechanical Engineering Tech, and have done instrumention and
controls, as well as Visual Basic Programming . I would like to find out
everything I need to program the DFI system . My main question is how do you
intially detemine the Pulse WIdth at different load points . I am also
intersted in making a circuit for a Exhaust Gas Temp digital display, I then
would like to switch this display between Air Temp, and Oil temp . A 'J'
type themocouple will read that high, and there is already a thermistor in
the oil pan, I would need to put another after the intercooler . I
understand op amps and timers but I am having trouble putting the circuit
together, have limited experience designing my own circuits . I am also a
mechanic in the Army Reserves so any mechanical question feel free to ask,
hopefully I wil be able to contribute to your list I am a little
underqualified electronically .


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep 22 12:17:18 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 12:16:45 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
Subject: Re: DIS info
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Thank you to everyone who suggested intake manifold fillers. It
turns out McMaster-Carr has the Devcon stuff so I'm getting a few
pounds of the aluminum putty from them, and playing with some of the
other solutions as well.

>From: "Scott, A. Pearson" <mrcad472@bigplanet.com>
>
>  I would like to build a system of distributorless igniton mostly using
>readily available OEM parts (I'm a broke college student) for my 76
>Cadillac 500 that I am in the process of installing in my truck. I read
>(but did not  understand) exactly how Peter Gargano fired (is that the
>right word?) the Honda CBR coils with the MJ10012 transisitors. Also how
>would I go about designing a circut using these transistors and the
>optical sensor to fire a coil pack on my big Cadillac motor?

It may not help too much but at least it's free: Go to the Motorola
web site (www.mot-sps.com) and grab the datasheet for the MC3334 .
It's a chip that handles most of a non-DIS ignition, but a careful
reading will give some good info about ignition systems. Actually a
guy I know is using 4 of these chips as part of a diy DIS system,
but I don't think it qualifies as being built from readily available
OEM or junkyard parts.

Actually it looks like

http://www.mot-sps.com/books/sg96/pdf/automotiverev15s.pdf

is an old summary of various Moto automotive bits. They also list the
MC33093, MC33094 and MC79076 as other ignition related parts, but I
haven't looked at the datasheets yet. Generally, tho, I find that
datasheets are often filled with juicy useful tidbits from someone
who already did your research for you. ;)

   Hope this helps,
   Chris C.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep 22 16:39:20 1999
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From: "Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com>
To: "'DIY-EFI'" <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        "'sac49091@saclink.csus.edu'" <sac49091@saclink.csus.edu>
Subject: RE: OEM car ECU on motorcycle
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 13:38:43 -0700
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	Hello all, I have tried to read as much as I could find from the 
archives and the library but I still don't know... Can I pull an entire 
EFI system with the ECU and adapt it too my 600cc motorcycle engine? It 
seems that so much can be done but I don't know my head from my arse when 
it concerns electronics and computers.
 If this can be done, what is the best way to do this? I was thinking of 
just going to a wrecking yard and pulling the entire system off another 4 
cylinder car. The manufacture doesn't matter I just want maximum 
performance, thank you in advance for any help.

===================================================

While it is possible to adapt a vehcle's EFI system to a motorcycle
application, I think that based on your comments I wouldn't recommend it.
An EFI system doesn't automatically provide maximum performance, it has to
be developed specifically to do so.  One of the biggest things you're going
to have to figure out is how to adapt the system to an application which has
1/2 to 1/4 the displacement that it had originally.  This is certainly going
to require some level of expertise in electronics and computers ...

There are motorcycles that come with EFI systems as well ... I've got a BMW
1000cc which uses a Motronic system, and I know that there are others.  I'm
sure that it would not be likely to be as inexpensive as would be likely
from an automotive wrecking yard, but it might be closer to what you'd need.


Another suggestion would be to start from the ground up.  There is an
associate project called EFI332, from which a system could be built to
control the fuel injection (and ignition for that matter) for your bike.
Here on this list in the past few weeks someone posted that they had created
a hardware-based EFI system that might be a good starting point as well.  

I don't mean to dissuade you from your quest ... I've actually got an EFI332
kit I want to make work on my Beemer myself ... I just want to make sure you
have a clear idea about what you're getting yourself into before you start
spending any money ...

Have fun!
Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep 22 16:42:40 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 06:34:04 +1000
To: DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: leigh <lee@tac.com.au>
Subject: 4 layer board buy
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please add one board to my order (two total) thanks
leigh turner   lee@tac.com.au

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep 22 16:45:26 1999
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please add one more to my parts/ assembly order ( two total) thanks leigh
turner  lee@tac.com.au

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep 22 18:29:52 1999
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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Engine Diagnostics.
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 15:35:42 -0700
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Hi All,

I've noticed a fair number of different postings regarding FI controllers from
stock automotive units to the roll-your-own type.  I'd like to tap this rather
wide body of experience and begin a dialog on engine diagnostics.

In particular:
a)  the engine refuses to start
  i) What sort of diagnostics do the 'stock' units provide?
  ii) What sort of diagnostics do the homebuilt or after market units provide.

b) engine starts and runs for 30 seconds (or 5 seconds or 1 minute...)
  i)  As above.
  ii) As above.

c) engine runs, warms up properly and then suddenly dies at cruise speed (say
2500 to 3500 RPM)
  i) as above.
  ii) as above

d) engine runs but dies at full power or refuses to reach full power.
  i) as above
  ii) as above

d) engine runs but enters 'limp home mode'
  i) as above
  ii) as above
  iii) What constitutes limp home mode for a FI implementation.

e) engine starts and runs but then suddenly develops a 'wicked' idle.  Perhaps
lots of hesitation to move from idle.

Obviously,  MAP verse MAF systems will create different diagnostics but what I'm
looking for is information that will help a mechanic diagnose the problem
without needing a complete laptop PC.  Some systems use a lamp and create a
flashing sequence with 'fault codes'.  What sort of codes would be useful?

I am assuming that some basic engine troubleshooting techniques are available
like: is there fuel; is the battery above the minimum specified voltage? etc.

Assuming the engine controller works properly,  what sort of information could
be provided to help someone diagnose a damaged sensor etc.

Thanks,

John Dammeyer





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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 22:24:26 -0400
From: Jeff Martin <buva@drexel.edu>
Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #539
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I was wondering if anyone could point me towards a place that had info on
Isuzu and its throttle body injection that they put on the 4ZE1.  I have a
4ZD1 that I would like to get rid of the carburetor and put the
aforementioned fuel injection system in my Trooper.  Did the intake manifold
change at all when they changed the fuel system because I was thinking that
I could just bolt the throttle body up and put a high pressure fuel pump on
the line and figure out the wiring to make it work.  If anyone could help me
I would thankful.  Also I have in mind a CJ-7 with a rebuilt engine but a
tired carburetor that doesn't work the best.  I was wondering if the intake
manifolds of the 4.0 liter high output engines of the Cherokees can bolt up
to the block of the 4.2 liter.  I know I am asking a lot here but could you
show me where I could find out this stuff.  The wiring harness in the CJ is
worn out and I figured a total swap of the wiring harness would also happen.


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep 23 00:04:53 1999
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Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 22:57:30 -0500 (CDT)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: CS-144 Alternator
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Not directly diy_efi but its related.

I have a CS-144 Alternator on a 93 LT1 that I put in my '66 Impala.  The
f-body that it came out of has a wire on the L terminal that hits the
guage cluster.  Is this the wire I should run to my 66's Generator Light?
or is it the F terminal.  Looking at the diagrams in my helms manual I am
led to believe the the L terminal is for a guage and the F terminal is for
a light, but I dont know how to tell.  If anyway has done this type
conversion I would appreciate some insight.

- Eric
66 Impala LT1


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep 23 04:15:40 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 18:22:00 +1000
From: Peter Gargano <peter@ntserver.techedge.com.au>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: DIS info
References: <199909221900.PAA25049@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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> Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 12:16:45 -0400
> From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
> ...
> > From: "Scott, A. Pearson" <mrcad472@bigplanet.com>
> > I would like to build a system of distributorless igniton mostly using
> > readily available OEM parts (I'm a broke college student) for my 76
> ...
> It may not help too much but at least it's free: Go to the Motorola
> web site (www.mot-sps.com) and grab the datasheet for the MC3334 .
> ...
> http://www.mot-sps.com/books/sg96/pdf/automotiverev15s.pdf

I'd suggest that a more appropriate Motorola reference,
for an overview of Distributorless Ignition Systems, try:

   http://www.mot-sps.com/automotive/ignition.html

And of course, Tim Drury's article, at DIY_EFI:

   http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/diy_efi/projects/ddis/ddis1.htm

Is also good. I'm intending to describe some of the DIS work that I'm
playing with, but I'm still developing stuff!

regards, Peter Gargano

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep 23 06:27:47 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 20:19:04 +1000
To: DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: leigh <lee@tac.com.au>
Subject: timing/trigger wheels
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Please put me down for two thanks.  leigh turner
lee@tac.com.au

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep 23 08:48:12 1999
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Hi,
   As I dive into reverse engineering my PCM, I am finding
a number of rom constants being loaded into the Timer I/O chip.
 I can't find any detailed register descriptions (or chip
description, for that matter)for this chip.  I've been to
the Delphi automotive web site, and have read their 2 page
blurb on the chip, but it contains very little in the
way of useful information.

   Does anyone have this info??

  What about the I/O with Ram chip???


Any help will be greatly appreciated,
Dave Hempstead
16188051 PCM
'96 Impala SS engine
dave_hempstead@hp.com


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep 23 11:49:35 1999
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Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 10:42:20 -0500 (CDT)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: CS-144 Alternator
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disregard,  i found what i needed to know



- Eric

On Wed, 22 Sep 1999 eclark@hoser.com wrote:

> Not directly diy_efi but its related.
> 
> I have a CS-144 Alternator on a 93 LT1 that I put in my '66 Impala.  The
> f-body that it came out of has a wire on the L terminal that hits the
> guage cluster.  Is this the wire I should run to my 66's Generator Light?
> or is it the F terminal.  Looking at the diagrams in my helms manual I am
> led to believe the the L terminal is for a guage and the F terminal is for
> a light, but I dont know how to tell.  If anyway has done this type
> conversion I would appreciate some insight.
> 
> - Eric
> 66 Impala LT1
> 
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep 23 19:11:19 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #541
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 18:03:25 -0500
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The L terminal is the standard hook up and can go in series with the  GEN
lamp and ignition switch. The  F terminal is used for fault indication and
does not need to be connected. The P term is a tach signal  not needed for
basic operation. The S term is the  voltage sense term and not needed for
basic operation.  Hope this helps.        Don

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [SMTP:DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]
> Sent:	Thursday, September 23, 1999 2:00 PM
> To:	DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	DIY_EFI Digest V4 #541
> 
> 
> DIY_EFI Digest      Thursday, September 23 1999      Volume 04 : Number
> 541
> 
> 
> 
> In this issue:
> 
> 	timing/trigger wheels
> 	Register Description help wanted
> 	Re: CS-144 Alternator
> 
> See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
> DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 20:19:04 +1000
> From: leigh <lee@tac.com.au>
> Subject: timing/trigger wheels
> 
> Please put me down for two thanks.  leigh turner
> lee@tac.com.au
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 08:48:00 -0400
> From: Dave Hempstead <dave_hempstead@hp.com>
> Subject: Register Description help wanted
> 
> Hi,
>    As I dive into reverse engineering my PCM, I am finding
> a number of rom constants being loaded into the Timer I/O chip.
>  I can't find any detailed register descriptions (or chip
> description, for that matter)for this chip.  I've been to
> the Delphi automotive web site, and have read their 2 page
> blurb on the chip, but it contains very little in the
> way of useful information.
> 
>    Does anyone have this info??
> 
>   What about the I/O with Ram chip???
> 
> 
> Any help will be greatly appreciated,
> Dave Hempstead
> 16188051 PCM
> '96 Impala SS engine
> dave_hempstead@hp.com
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 10:42:20 -0500 (CDT)
> From: eclark@hoser.com
> Subject: Re: CS-144 Alternator
> 
> disregard,  i found what i needed to know
> 
> 
> 
> - - Eric
> 
> On Wed, 22 Sep 1999 eclark@hoser.com wrote:
> 
> > Not directly diy_efi but its related.
> > 
> > I have a CS-144 Alternator on a 93 LT1 that I put in my '66 Impala.  The
> > f-body that it came out of has a wire on the L terminal that hits the
> > guage cluster.  Is this the wire I should run to my 66's Generator
> Light?
> > or is it the F terminal.  Looking at the diagrams in my helms manual I
> am
> > led to believe the the L terminal is for a guage and the F terminal is
> for
> > a light, but I dont know how to tell.  If anyway has done this type
> > conversion I would appreciate some insight.
> > 
> > - Eric
> > 66 Impala LT1
> > 
> > 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #541
> *****************************
> 
> To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command:
> 
>     subscribe diy_efi-digest
> 
> in the body of a message to "Majordomo@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu".  
> 
> A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to
> subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command
>  above with "diy_efi".

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep 23 19:44:56 1999
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Subject: Re: timing/trigger wheels
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I missed original post, but looking for crank trigger wheels and
starter gear sensors for misfire detection.
Alex 
> From: leigh <lee@tac.com.au>
> Subject: timing/trigger wheels
> 
> Please put me down for two thanks.  leigh turner
> lee@tac.com.au
> 
Alex C Peper
http://www.obd-2.com

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep 24 07:34:06 1999
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From: "Alan Smith" <alansmith@btinternet.com>
To: "DIY-EFI" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Delphi Automotive Web Site URL ?
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 11:25:35 +0100
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_004E_01BF067F.853C5480
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Can anyone tell me the URL for the Delphi Automotive Web Site ?

Alan Smith

------=_NextPart_000_004E_01BF067F.853C5480
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Can anyone tell me the URL for the Delphi Automotive =
Web Site=20
?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Alan Smith</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_004E_01BF067F.853C5480--


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Subject: Transplant Update
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Four times in the last eight days, I've been prepped for surgery, only for 
faults to be found in the donor tissue, so waiting on #5.  Most folks make 
it thru on the first attempt.  Talk about all undressed, and ready to go <g>.
Hopefully soon.
Grumpy


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep 24 21:47:22 1999
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From: "richard  knight" <richardk@gofree.co.uk>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #540
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 02:56:12 +0100
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richard knight
www.mci.i12.com
i am interested in efi332
i have been interested in injectin a bike for a long time
my electronics is only as much as what i picked up while doing
electro-mag and semiconductor physics
so i am interested in ready made efi
so if anyone could point me at any ecu's suitable i would  be gratful
richard

>
>DIY_EFI Digest      Thursday, September 23 1999      Volume 04 : Number 540
>
>
>
>In this issue:
>
> RE: OEM car ECU on motorcycle
> 4 layer board buy
> Mime-Version: 1.0
> Engine Diagnostics.
> RE: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #539
> CS-144 Alternator
> Re: DIS info
>
>See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the
>DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 13:38:43 -0700
>From: "Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com>
>Subject: RE: OEM car ECU on motorcycle
>
> Hello all, I have tried to read as much as I could find from the
>archives and the library but I still don't know... Can I pull an entire
>EFI system with the ECU and adapt it too my 600cc motorcycle engine? It
>seems that so much can be done but I don't know my head from my arse when
>it concerns electronics and computers.
> If this can be done, what is the best way to do this? I was thinking of
>just going to a wrecking yard and pulling the entire system off another 4
>cylinder car. The manufacture doesn't matter I just want maximum
>performance, thank you in advance for any help.
>
>===================================================
>
>While it is possible to adapt a vehcle's EFI system to a motorcycle
>application, I think that based on your comments I wouldn't recommend it.
>An EFI system doesn't automatically provide maximum performance, it has to
>be developed specifically to do so.  One of the biggest things you're going
>to have to figure out is how to adapt the system to an application which
has
>1/2 to 1/4 the displacement that it had originally.  This is certainly
going
>to require some level of expertise in electronics and computers ...
>
>There are motorcycles that come with EFI systems as well ... I've got a BMW
>1000cc which uses a Motronic system, and I know that there are others.  I'm
>sure that it would not be likely to be as inexpensive as would be likely
>from an automotive wrecking yard, but it might be closer to what you'd
need.
>
>
>Another suggestion would be to start from the ground up.  There is an
>associate project called EFI332, from which a system could be built to
>control the fuel injection (and ignition for that matter) for your bike.
>Here on this list in the past few weeks someone posted that they had
created
>a hardware-based EFI system that might be a good starting point as well.
>
>I don't mean to dissuade you from your quest ... I've actually got an
EFI332
>kit I want to make work on my Beemer myself ... I just want to make sure
you
>have a clear idea about what you're getting yourself into before you start
>spending any money ...
>
>Have fun!
>Steve Buchholz
>San Jose, CA (USA)
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 06:34:04 +1000
>From: leigh <lee@tac.com.au>
>Subject: 4 layer board buy
>
>please add one board to my order (two total) thanks
>leigh turner   lee@tac.com.au
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 06:36:52 +1000
>From: leigh <lee@tac.com.au>
>Subject: Mime-Version: 1.0
>
>please add one more to my parts/ assembly order ( two total) thanks leigh
>turner  lee@tac.com.au
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 15:35:42 -0700
>From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
>Subject: Engine Diagnostics.
>
>Hi All,
>
>I've noticed a fair number of different postings regarding FI controllers
from
>stock automotive units to the roll-your-own type.  I'd like to tap this
rather
>wide body of experience and begin a dialog on engine diagnostics.
>
>In particular:
>a)  the engine refuses to start
>  i) What sort of diagnostics do the 'stock' units provide?
>  ii) What sort of diagnostics do the homebuilt or after market units
provide.
>
>b) engine starts and runs for 30 seconds (or 5 seconds or 1 minute...)
>  i)  As above.
>  ii) As above.
>
>c) engine runs, warms up properly and then suddenly dies at cruise speed
(say
>2500 to 3500 RPM)
>  i) as above.
>  ii) as above
>
>d) engine runs but dies at full power or refuses to reach full power.
>  i) as above
>  ii) as above
>
>d) engine runs but enters 'limp home mode'
>  i) as above
>  ii) as above
>  iii) What constitutes limp home mode for a FI implementation.
>
>e) engine starts and runs but then suddenly develops a 'wicked' idle.
Perhaps
>lots of hesitation to move from idle.
>
>Obviously,  MAP verse MAF systems will create different diagnostics but
what I'm
>looking for is information that will help a mechanic diagnose the problem
>without needing a complete laptop PC.  Some systems use a lamp and create a
>flashing sequence with 'fault codes'.  What sort of codes would be useful?
>
>I am assuming that some basic engine troubleshooting techniques are
available
>like: is there fuel; is the battery above the minimum specified voltage?
etc.
>
>Assuming the engine controller works properly,  what sort of information
could
>be provided to help someone diagnose a damaged sensor etc.
>
>Thanks,
>
>John Dammeyer
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 22:24:26 -0400
>From: Jeff Martin <buva@drexel.edu>
>Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #539
>
>I was wondering if anyone could point me towards a place that had info on
>Isuzu and its throttle body injection that they put on the 4ZE1.  I have a
>4ZD1 that I would like to get rid of the carburetor and put the
>aforementioned fuel injection system in my Trooper.  Did the intake
manifold
>change at all when they changed the fuel system because I was thinking that
>I could just bolt the throttle body up and put a high pressure fuel pump on
>the line and figure out the wiring to make it work.  If anyone could help
me
>I would thankful.  Also I have in mind a CJ-7 with a rebuilt engine but a
>tired carburetor that doesn't work the best.  I was wondering if the intake
>manifolds of the 4.0 liter high output engines of the Cherokees can bolt up
>to the block of the 4.2 liter.  I know I am asking a lot here but could you
>show me where I could find out this stuff.  The wiring harness in the CJ is
>worn out and I figured a total swap of the wiring harness would also
happen.
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 22:57:30 -0500 (CDT)
>From: eclark@hoser.com
>Subject: CS-144 Alternator
>
>Not directly diy_efi but its related.
>
>I have a CS-144 Alternator on a 93 LT1 that I put in my '66 Impala.  The
>f-body that it came out of has a wire on the L terminal that hits the
>guage cluster.  Is this the wire I should run to my 66's Generator Light?
>or is it the F terminal.  Looking at the diagrams in my helms manual I am
>led to believe the the L terminal is for a guage and the F terminal is for
>a light, but I dont know how to tell.  If anyway has done this type
>conversion I would appreciate some insight.
>
>- - Eric
>66 Impala LT1
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 18:22:00 +1000
>From: Peter Gargano <peter@ntserver.techedge.com.au>
>Subject: Re: DIS info
>
>> Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1999 12:16:45 -0400
>> From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
>> ...
>> > From: "Scott, A. Pearson" <mrcad472@bigplanet.com>
>> > I would like to build a system of distributorless igniton mostly using
>> > readily available OEM parts (I'm a broke college student) for my 76
>> ...
>> It may not help too much but at least it's free: Go to the Motorola
>> web site (www.mot-sps.com) and grab the datasheet for the MC3334 .
>> ...
>> http://www.mot-sps.com/books/sg96/pdf/automotiverev15s.pdf
>
>I'd suggest that a more appropriate Motorola reference,
>for an overview of Distributorless Ignition Systems, try:
>
>   http://www.mot-sps.com/automotive/ignition.html
>
>And of course, Tim Drury's article, at DIY_EFI:
>
>   http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/diy_efi/projects/ddis/ddis1.htm
>
>Is also good. I'm intending to describe some of the DIS work that I'm
>playing with, but I'm still developing stuff!
>
>regards, Peter Gargano
>
>------------------------------
>



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Sep 24 23:42:54 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 21:37:18 -0600
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I am working on a Volvo that had the wiring harness destroyed by 
rodents.  I would like to get it running again to use it as my daily 
driver.  Unfortunately, I have no idea which wire is which.  The car 
is a Volvo 240 with the 2.3 litre and LH-Jetronic.  As far as I can 
tell, the computer is the 2.2 model because the throttle body has 
the throttle switches.  Also, if anybody has any idea what resistors 
to change and what that change does, the information would be 
helpful.

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep 25 00:35:36 1999
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From: Tom Sharpe <twsharpe@mtco.com>
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Subject: Syclone -non list related.
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I saw a nice '91 Syclone at a used car lot today while looking for a
cruser for me. Contact Woody Quality Cars in Creve Coeur (East Peoria)
Il. at (309) 699-3919. Woody's getting older so you'll probably want to
talk to one of the boys. I'd be glad to test drive it or check it out if
anyone is serious about buying it.  I could also get pictures if
necessary. Of course it's black... that's about all I know about it. I
know that someone lurking out there really wants this truck.   Good
luck  Tom


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep 25 05:30:29 1999
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #542
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 11:27:39 +0200
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> 
> Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 19:12:12 +0000
> From: "Alex C. Peper" <xxalexx@ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: Re: timing/trigger wheels
> 
> I missed original post, but looking for crank trigger wheels and
> starter gear sensors for misfire detection.
> Alex 
> > From: leigh <lee@tac.com.au>
> > Subject: timing/trigger wheels
> > 
> > Please put me down for two thanks.  leigh turner
> > lee@tac.com.au
> > 
> Alex C Peper
> http://www.obd-2.com
I think this post was aimed for 332 efi mailing list, we are in the middle
of 
a  groupe buy of the 332 ecu. Its closing in one week.......
So hurry if you want to join.
Espen Hilde

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep 25 05:57:39 1999
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #543
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 11:55:28 +0200
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> Can anyone tell me the URL for the Delphi Automotive Web Site ?
> 
> Alan Smith
http://www.delphiauto.com/

Espen Hilde

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep 25 07:58:29 1999
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From: "F.R. Wilk" <frwilk@email.msn.com>
To: "diy_efi" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Test - New Member
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 04:36:53 -0700
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I am a new member and wanted to test out the mailing list.

Sorry for the inconvenience.

FR Wilk




From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep 25 09:54:52 1999
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From: "Dave" <dave@palms.screaming.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Calculating HP with G
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 14:52:12 +0100
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BF0765.8CC86D60
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  Hi All,
          Just wondering how to calculate HP(torque?) with g .What my =
idea is the use a accelerometer and record the 'g' ALA G-tech etc =
etc,guess the peak comes at the 'peak'! all I need the the kerb weight =
of the car and a formula ! So if someone has a suitable formula please =
post IT!

                                                  Thanks Dave.....

------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BF0765.8CC86D60
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi All,</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
Just=20
  wondering how to calculate HP(torque?) with g .What my idea is the use =
a=20
  accelerometer and record the 'g' ALA G-tech etc etc,guess the peak =
comes at=20
  the 'peak'! all I need the the kerb weight of the car and a formula ! =
So if=20
  someone has a suitable formula please post IT!</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =

  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Thanks=20
Dave.....</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BF0765.8CC86D60--


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From: garfield@cyberlynk.com (Gar Willis)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Transplant Update
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 08:05:49 -0700
Organization: AirSIG, Inc.
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On Fri, 24 Sep 1999 18:52:25 -0500 nacelp@jvlnet.com (CSH-HQ) wrote:

>Subject: Transplant Update
>
>Four times in the last eight days, I've been prepped for surgery, only for 
>faults to be found in the donor tissue, so waiting on #5.  Most folks make 
>it thru on the first attempt.  Talk about all undressed, and ready to go <g>.
>Hopefully soon.
>Grumpy

All skill and success to the surgeons, and God speed, Dr. Pelican! We're
looking forward to your speedy recovery and return. Not to worry about
those first 4 donors, they musta been Abe Normal kinda guys, anyway. :)

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep 25 12:39:14 1999
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From: "Marc van der Vossen" <marc@vdvossen.nl>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Alfa 164 perf. chip
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 1999 18:33:56 +0200
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Hi All,

I'm searching for a performance chip for a friends alfa 164. It is a '96 car
with AC and manual transmission. It is the 2 litre twin-spark engine.

Does anyone have a good bin for it ?

Thanks in advance,

Marc
marc@vdvossen.nl


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Sep 25 18:37:08 1999
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Gang members, I just got back from Acklands/Grainger where I bought an 
Ostra DM2500 digital multimeter (made in Germany) for $31.00 ($20 US).  It's 
autoranging, large 3 digit display, diode check, continuity tone, 
capacitance 
from 2000pF to 20 microF, and will test both PNP and NPN transistors.  It 
also does V and A in both AC and DC but I think that's obvious.  The only 
featues I would have liked it to have are Frequency and a temp. probe input.

I have no affiliation with Acklands it's just that I've needed a DMM for a 
long time now and this was too good of a deal to pass up.  If anybody else is 
interested in one then let me know, they had a case full of them.

Just trying to help,
james




From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep 26 00:50:17 1999
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Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 00:49:35 EDT
Subject: Typical ignition timing  response to throttle snap?
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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HI everyone

I was wondering  what effect rapid throttle movement has on ignition timing.

I know that extra fuel is injected when the throttle is quickly depressed  to 
improve throttle response. Are there any ignition timing events that occur at 
the same time to also improve throttle response?

Do you get a little extra advance during TPS event or what?

Thanks

Jon

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep 26 11:26:12 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: Typical ignition timing  response to throttle snap?
Cc: PHXSYS@aol.com
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At 05:00 26/09/99 -0400, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 00:49:35 EDT
>From: PHXSYS@aol.com
>Subject: Typical ignition timing  response to throttle snap?
>
>HI everyone
>
>I was wondering  what effect rapid throttle movement has on ignition timing.
>
>I know that extra fuel is injected when the throttle is quickly depressed
to 
>improve throttle response. Are there any ignition timing events that occur
at 
>the same time to also improve throttle response?
>
>Do you get a little extra advance during TPS event or what?

Not sure about Efi Systems but on a normal dizzys you just have centrifugal
(rev related) advance and vac advance (throttle positon/rev related). I
know that you don't need vac advance, all it does is improve part throttle
fuel ecconomy. On the Rover Mini Mpi system water temperature is also taken
into consideration... It also uses the MAP sensor (equiv of centrifugal)
and the CPS (crank positon sensor) to get the engine speed (centrifugal
advance). It also uses a cam postions sensor 'to run in sequential fueling
mode' Is this mode where it learns what fuel it should be putting in from
the Heated oxygen sensor? Why would it need to know where the cam is to run
in the mode? It also measures the actual cam period.... Why does it need to
know the actaul cam period?

HTH, Thanx,

Ade

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep 26 13:51:52 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 03:51:19 +1000
From: Phil Lamovie <phil@injec.com>
Organization: Injec Racing Developments
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Hi All,

A while  back I asked the question "so who do think is responsible
for all those F1 engine blowups. The machine programmer who
cant tell a thou from an inch or the software engineer with a bug ?

So you all thought I was being silly.

24 Sept. 1994

Motor sport News

"How long's the warranty ?" was the question being asked by Mercedes
Benz Champ Car customers in Vancouver with no fewer than 12 of the
silver star engines blowing during practice and qualifying. Carl Hogan

was the biggest warranty claimant, losing five engines alone.

Apparently the cause came down to a new "experimental" Mercedes/
Magnet Marelli electronic (sic) mapping system which proved to go
disastrously wrong

New engine mapping was installed for race day with no engine failures
being experienced.

Hands up who can say C++

 yours in real time,

Phil
Injec Racing


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep 26 14:44:26 1999
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speaking of cheap multimeters, r there alternatives to the fluke handheld 
o-scope that r cheaper? or does anyone have a source for cheap fluke's?

sihao

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep 26 15:49:21 1999
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #547- throttle and timing
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 15:48:49 -0400
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> >
> >Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 00:49:35 EDT
> >From: PHXSYS@aol.com
> >Subject: Typical ignition timing  response to throttle snap?
> >
> >HI everyone
> >
> >I was wondering  what effect rapid throttle movement has on ignition
timing.
> >
> >I know that extra fuel is injected when the throttle is quickly depressed
> to
> >improve throttle response. Are there any ignition timing events that
occur
> at
> >the same time to also improve throttle response?
> >
> >Do you get a little extra advance during TPS event or what?
>
> Not sure about Efi Systems but on a normal dizzys you just have
centrifugal
> (rev related) advance and vac advance (throttle positon/rev related). I
> know that you don't need vac advance, all it does is improve part throttle
> fuel ecconomy. On the Rover Mini Mpi system water temperature is also
taken
> into consideration... It also uses the MAP sensor (equiv of centrifugal)

Pardon?
The MAP sensor reads eqivalent to the Vacuum advance - measuring engine
load.

On a distributor with vac advance. high vacuum advances the timing under low
load for economy. sticking your foot into it drops vacuum, effectively
retarding spark to eliminate ping under load.
A total engine management system would also have to take this into account.


> and the CPS (crank positon sensor) to get the engine speed (centrifugal
> advance). It also uses a cam postions sensor 'to run in sequential fueling
> mode' Is this mode where it learns what fuel it should be putting in from
> the Heated oxygen sensor? Why would it need to know where the cam is to
run
> in the mode? It also measures the actual cam period.... Why does it need
to
> know the actaul cam period?
>
> HTH, Thanx,
>
> Ade
>



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep 26 18:28:57 1999
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Typical ignition timing  response to throttle snap?
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 00:24:35 +0200
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> Date: Sun, 26 Sep 1999 00:49:35 EDT
> From: PHXSYS@aol.com
> Subject: Typical ignition timing  response to throttle snap?
> 
> HI everyone
> 
> I was wondering  what effect rapid throttle movement has on ignition
timing.
> 
I have heard that some systems uses timing retard under sudden accleration
in turbo applications.The turbo needs time to speed up to deliver whats
required, doing so, it makes a higher exhaust backpressure on the
engine,than under steady state. The engine is more prone to detonations,
because of more exhaust 
residuals /heat in the combustion chamber. One way to lover the detonation 
tendencies is to lover the timing.  

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep 27 11:37:04 1999
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Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 11:36:26 -0700
From: Will McGonegal <McGonegal.Will@etc.ec.gc.ca>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Calculating HP with G
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>           Just wondering how to calculate HP(torque?) with g .

Don't confuse up your Horsepower and torque.  If you measure Horsepower at the
wheels and want engine torque and can't simultaneously measure engine speed, you
have to know the radius of your drive wheels and the gear ratio from the engine to
the wheels (torque multiplication-speed reduction).  The Horsepower remains the
same through the system (assuming no loses!).  If you calculate wheel horsepower
and you know the equivalent engine RPM to vehicle speed then you can determine the
effective engine torque.G is a measurement of acceleration.  1 G of acceleration
is 9.80665 meters/(second squared).

Power = Force * velocity = Mass * acceleration * velocity.

If you're accelerating at 0.1 G in a 3000 lb car going through 25 mph........

0.1 G is 0.1 * 9.80665 = 0.980665 m/s2
3000 lbs = 3000 / 2.2046 kg = 1360.8 kg
25 mph = 25 * 0.44704 m/s = 11.176 m/s

Power = 1360.8 [kg] * 0.980665 [m/ss] * 11.176 [m/s] = 14 914.248 Watts
14 914.248 / 745.69 [Watt / Hp] = 20 Hp

Simplified......

Horsepower = Mass [lbs] * Acceleration [G] * Speed [mph] / 375.0

(the 375 factor comes from 3600 [seconds/hour] / 5280 [feet/mile] * 550
[ft.lbs/sec per horsepower]

Now if you happened to know that the engine was reving at 2000 rpm when the
vehicle was traveling 25 mph.......

Engine torque (assuming no drivetrain losses (HA!)) = 20 [Hp] * 5252.1131 / 2000
[rpm] = 52.5 ft-lbs.

(the 5252.1131 factor comes from 550 [ft.lbs/sec] * 60 [seconds/minute] / ( 2 * pi
[3.1415....] ) )

Will McGonegal
Project Engineer/Dynamometer Developer
Environment Canada


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep 27 18:53:14 1999
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From: d houlton x0710 <tc75918@hprs9.msc.az.boeing.com>
Message-Id: <199909272254.PAA05333@hprs9.msc.az.boeing.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #539
To: buva@drexel.edu (Jeff Martin)
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 1999 15:53:34 -0700 (MST)
In-Reply-To: <no.id> from "Jeff Martin" at Sep 22, 99 10:24:26 pm
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Helicopter
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Jeff Martin wrote:
> 
> I was wondering if anyone could point me towards a place that had info on
> Isuzu and its throttle body injection that they put on the 4ZE1.  I have a

The 4ZE1 never had throttle body injection.  It's a multi-port sequential
injection MAF system.


> 4ZD1 that I would like to get rid of the carburetor and put the
> aforementioned fuel injection system in my Trooper.  Did the intake manifold

You can, but you'll need the complete upper and lower intake manifold, throttle
body, the computer and wiring harness and all the misc. sensors (coolant temp, 
TPS, MAF, O2, etc.) 

The 4ZC1, 4ZD1 and 4ZE1 are all the same basic block so things like intake
and exhaust manifolds and accessories and brackets are interchangeable.  
You'll need to make sure and change everything though to go from carb to 
EFI and expect it to work right.


> change at all when they changed the fuel system because I was thinking that

Intake manifolds for the carb and EFI version are very different.


> I could just bolt the throttle body up and put a high pressure fuel pump on
> the line and figure out the wiring to make it work.  If anyone could help me

Best thing to do would be swap the tank as well and get the high pressure 
pump and internal baffling the EFI version uses.



> I would thankful.  Also I have in mind a CJ-7 with a rebuilt engine but a
> tired carburetor that doesn't work the best.  I was wondering if the intake
> manifolds of the 4.0 liter high output engines of the Cherokees can bolt up
> to the block of the 4.2 liter.  I know I am asking a lot here but could you
> show me where I could find out this stuff.  The wiring harness in the CJ is
> worn out and I figured a total swap of the wiring harness would also happen.


I'm fairly certain it does.  The Mopar EFI kit for the 4.2 I've read is not
much more than the components used on the 4.0l engines packaged up for the
4.2.


--Dan
houlster@inficad.com
http://www.inficad.com/~houlster/amigo.htm


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep 28 01:49:10 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu,
        DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #548
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At 05:00 27/09/99 -0400, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:
>> Not sure about Efi Systems but on a normal dizzys you just have
>centrifugal
>> (rev related) advance and vac advance (throttle positon/rev related). I
>> know that you don't need vac advance, all it does is improve part throttle
>> fuel ecconomy. On the Rover Mini Mpi system water temperature is also
>taken
>> into consideration... It also uses the MAP sensor (equiv of centrifugal)
>
>Pardon?
>The MAP sensor reads eqivalent to the Vacuum advance - measuring engine
>load.

Oops what you said is what I mean't <slaps wrist>

Ade

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep 28 01:49:12 1999
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From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #548
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At 05:00 27/09/99 -0400, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:
>> Not sure about Efi Systems but on a normal dizzys you just have
>centrifugal
>> (rev related) advance and vac advance (throttle positon/rev related). I
>> know that you don't need vac advance, all it does is improve part throttle
>> fuel ecconomy. On the Rover Mini Mpi system water temperature is also
>taken
>> into consideration... It also uses the MAP sensor (equiv of centrifugal)
>
>Pardon?
>The MAP sensor reads eqivalent to the Vacuum advance - measuring engine
>load.

Oops what you said is what I mean't <slaps wrist>

Ade

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep 29 04:43:54 1999
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From: "Alan Smith" <alansmith@btinternet.com>
To: "DIY-EFI" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 8051 C compiler wanted
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 16:39:54 +0100
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Does anybody know where I can get a C complier for the 8051 ?

Alan Smith


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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Does anybody know where I can get a C complier for =
the 8051=20
?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Alan Smith</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_00F1_01BF09D0.17ECB6A0--


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep 29 05:46:11 1999
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From: "Alan Smith" <alansmith@btinternet.com>
To: "DIY-EFI" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Original Motronic Eproms
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 10:46:50 +0100
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Does anyone know of an on line source of original  Eproms for Bosch =
ECU's ?

If not I would be keen to set up such a site, possibly also covering =
info about Bosch systems.

Any BIN's or info appreciated.

Alan Smith

mailto: alansmith@btinternet.com=20

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Does anyone know of an on line source of =
original&nbsp; Eproms=20
for Bosch ECU's ?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If not I would be keen to set up such a site, =
possibly also=20
covering info about Bosch systems.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Any BIN's or&nbsp;info appreciated.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Alan Smith</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A href=3D"mailto: alansmith@btinternet.com">mailto: =

alansmith@btinternet.com</A></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep 30 01:11:20 1999
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To: DIY_EFI Digest <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #551
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You wrote:

DD> Date: Tue, 28 Sep 1999 16:39:54 +0100
DD> From: "Alan Smith" <alansmith@btinternet.com>
DD> Subject: 8051 C compiler wanted

DD> Does anybody know where I can get a C complier for the 8051 ?

DD> Alan Smith

http://www.geocities.com/ResearchTriangle/Forum/1353/
SDCC is a Freeware , retargettable, optimizing ANSI - C compiler for
Intel 8051 based MCUs


Best Regards,
Sergey Utlyakov
mailto:sergu@rb.ru




From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep 30 01:37:13 1999
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Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 01:34:36 EDT
Subject: o2 ecm current draw
To: gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Hi

I want to send false O2 voltages to the ecm. The DAC I was looking at using 
can source or sink 5 mA. Is that enough current to drive the ecm a/d.

Thanks

Jon

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep 30 02:21:59 1999
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From: Putter C <cputter@sed.sun.ac.za>
To: "DIY EFI (E-mail)" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Bosch Motronic
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 08:25:58 +0200
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I have a problem with my opel(vauxhaul) Astra 200i (Not the EURO series).
Maybe anybody on the list have seen the following syntoms:
When I drive for quit a while (1-2hours) and go to stop at a trafic light
then the masjine tends to stall, I have changed air fileters, feul filters
and sparc-plugs(the usual), but the probleem seems to be a little deeper.
Any help would be appreciated.
#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#
			Carlo Putter
Development Engineer SED	Ontwerps ingenieur SED
University of Stellenbosch	Universiteit van Stellenbosch
South Africa	Suid Afrika
-------------------------------------------------------------
		e-mail : cputter@eng.sun.ac.za
		   web : www.sed.sun.ac.za
		          Tel : 8084033
		         Fax : 808 4981
-------------------------------------------------------------


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep 30 07:11:42 1999
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Subject: astra engine stall
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Carlo, can you tell me what engine number prefix you have
so i can possablly help you. leigh turner  lee@tac.com.au

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep 30 10:42:01 1999
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From: mowhco@att.net
Subject: Homeworkers Needed!
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 1999 04:07:20
Message-Id: <839.500733.52510@ns.bigbear.net>
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Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

Dear Future Associate,

You Can Work At Home & Set Your Own Hours.  Start earning Big 
Money in a short time
       
                                    NO Newspaper Advertising!

Your job will be to stuff and mail envelopes for our company. You 
will receive $.25 for each and every envelope you stuff and mail 
out.

Just follow our simple instructions and you will be making money 
as easy as
1… 2… 3

For example stuff and mail 200 envelopes and you will receive 
$50.00. Stuff and mail 1000 and you will receive $250.00. Stuff 
and mail 2000 and you will receive $500.00 and more 

Never before has there been an easier way to make money from 
home!

Our Company's Home Mailing Program is designed for people with 
little or no experience and provides simple, step by step 
instructions.  

There is no prior experience or special skills necessary on your 
part, Just stuffing envelopes.

We need the help of honest and reliable home workers like you.  
Because we are overloaded with work and have more than our staff 
can handle. We have now expanded our mailing program and are 
expecting to reach millions more with our offers throughout the 
US and Canada.

Our system of stuffing and mailing envelopes is very simple and 
easy to do!
You will not be required to buy envelopes or postage stamps.

We will gladly furnish all circulars at no cost to you. We assure 
you that as a participant in our program you will never have to 
mail anything objective or offensive. 

There are no quotas to meet, and there no contracts to sign. You 
can work as much, or as little as you want. Payment for each 
envelope you send out is Guaranteed!

Here is what you will receive when you get your first Package.  
Inside you will find 100 envelopes, 100 labels and 100 sales 
letters ready to stuff and mail

As soon as you are done with stuffing and mailing these first 
letters, your payment will arrive shortly, thereafter. All you 
have to do is to order more free supplies and stuff and mail more 
envelopes to make more money.

Our sales literature which you will be stuffing and mailing will 
contain
information outlining our highly informative manuals that we are
advertising nationwide.  As a free gift you will receive a 
special manual valued at  $24.95, absolutely free, just for 
joining our Home Mailers Program.

Plus you will get your own special code number, so that we will 
know how much you are to get paid.  And to make re-ordering of 
more envelopes, that our company supplies very simple for you.

We are giving you this free bonus because we want you to be 
confident in our company and to ensure that we will be doing 
business with you for a long time.

Benefits Of This Job:

1. You do not have to quit your present job, to earn more money 
at home
2. You can make between $2,500 to $4,500 a month depending on the 
amount of time you are willing to spend stuffing and mailing 
envelopes
3. This is a great opportunity for the students, mothers, 
disabled persons or those who are home bodies.

To secure your position and to show us that you are serious about 
earning extra income at home we require a one-time registration 
fee of $35.00.
This fee covers the cost of your initial start up package,  which 
includes 100 envelopes, 100 labels and 100 sales letters and a 
manual, your registration fee will be refunded back to you 
shortly thereafter.

Money Back Guarantee!

We guarantee that as soon as you stuff and mail your first 300 
envelopes You will be paid $75.00 and your registration fee will 
be refunded.

Many of you wonder why it is necessary to pay a deposit to get a 
job. It is because we are looking for people that seriously want 
to work from home.  

*  If 3.000 people told us they wanted to start working from home 
and we sent out 3.000 packages free to every one.  And then half 
of the people decided not to work, this would be a potential loss 
of more than $60,000 in supply's and shipping that we have sent 
out to people that don't want to work

We have instituted this policy to make sure that you really want 
to work and at least finish your first package.

To Get Started Today Please Enclose Your Registration Fee of $35
Check,Cash Or Money Order and fill out the application below and 
mail to:

MOHW Co	
PMB
11054 Ventura Blvd #126	
Studio City, CA 91604

Name_____________________________________________________

Address___________________________________________________

City____________________________________ State______________

Zip Code________________

Telephone Number(s)_________________________________________

E-mail Address______________________________________________



For all orders, please allow seven (7) days for delivery and up 
to 10 days. Cash and Money Orders will result in faster shipping of your 
package.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep 30 23:44:50 1999
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Message-ID: <3dca0cbd.25258827@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 23:44:39 EDT
Subject: Re: opel motroinc
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

 Hi
 If you have an evap system that would be a good place to start.
If you are in the habit of filling up to the very top you may have a charco 
canister that is full of gas. Also could be your idle air motor is dirty. You 
didn't say what year? Is obd2?
 Jim crance
Colorado springs. CO.


