From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct  1 07:18:17 1999
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From: "Rich Mauruschat" <rsrich@cwcom.net>
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #553
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 10:58:44 +0100
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Assuming you have Motronic 1.5, have you checked the idle speed control
valve - this is a rotary valve which controls the idle speed by opening or
closing as neccessary an air channel which bypasses the throttle plate.
These can get affected by oil/carbon from the breather system which causes a
blockage or sticking; maybe heat is making this worse?
Just a thought.
Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: DIY_EFI Digest <DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
To: DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: 30 September 1999 11:04
Subject: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #553


>Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 08:25:58 +0200
>From: Putter C <cputter@sed.sun.ac.za>
>Subject: Bosch Motronic
>
>I have a problem with my opel(vauxhaul) Astra 200i (Not the EURO series).
>Maybe anybody on the list have seen the following syntoms:
>When I drive for quit a while (1-2hours) and go to stop at a trafic light
>then the masjine tends to stall, I have changed air fileters, feul filters
>and sparc-plugs(the usual), but the probleem seems to be a little deeper.
>Any help would be appreciated.
>#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#*#
> Carlo Putter
>Development Engineer SED Ontwerps ingenieur SED
>University of Stellenbosch Universiteit van Stellenbosch
>South Africa Suid Afrika
>- -------------------------------------------------------------
> e-mail : cputter@eng.sun.ac.za
>    web : www.sed.sun.ac.za
>           Tel : 8084033
>          Fax : 808 4981
>- -------------------------------------------------------------



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct  1 09:56:09 1999
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From: mowhco@att.net
Subject: Homeworkers Needed!
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct  1 12:26:05 1999
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From: Putter C <cputter@sed.sun.ac.za>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: opel motroinc
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 15:21:18 +0200 
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 1999 23:44:39 EDT
From: JCsDOOR@aol.com
Subject: Re: opel motroinc

 Hi
 If you have an evap system that would be a good place to start.
If you are in the habit of filling up to the very top you may have a charco 
canister that is full of gas. Also could be your idle air motor is dirty.
You 
didn't say what year? Is obd2?
 Jim crance
Colorado springs. CO.
------------------------------
[[[leigh [lee@tac.com.au]]]
I wont be back at work for 3 days, its friday 7.00pm now, i will see what i
can find out for you.  leigh turner            At 08:43 AM 10/1/99 +0200,
you wrote:
>Hi Leigh
>
>Thanks for the response.
>I have got the 200SEH engine in my astra (8-vale, 200i, 1995 model), my
dads
>got
>the 200XELN engine and his does the same (16-valve, 200IE, 1998 model).
>
>The only thisgs that are not standard on the motors is the intake filters,
>I've replaced
>it with K&N filters. My dads car is due for a sprac-plug change, so I don't
>know if that
>could have this kind of effect.
------------------------------

It is a 1995 year model, I am not sure whether it has a coal canister (I'll
go an search for it). Here in South Africa we are quit a bit behind the
rest of the word, (that is conserning ecological improvements to motor
vehicles).

The funny thing is that this problem is one of those inconsistent ones, one
day it is there the other it is gone

Thanks for the response
Carlo

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct  1 16:27:50 1999
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Subject: New member & Motronic M1.5 project
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Greetings all

I joined this list recently and am applying a Bosch Motronic M1.5 system from an
early 90's Opel/Vauxhaul 2.0 L onto a 92 Isuzu 2.3 L (was carb'ed).  Anyone
familiar with this system?   I have the complete GM FI system including all
sensors, harness, intake manifold, ECU etc. from a test vehicle that was brought
into the US for evaluation.  Was this system (M1.5) or very similar on anything
imported into the US, if so what years?  Suggested literature / URLs?  To adapt
the GM  FI intake the Isuzu head I plan on fabricating a 0.75 in 19 mm adapter
plate - is it reasonable to assume that driveability will not suffer greatly
with the injectors further upstream?  How critical is crank timing (injector
timing, +/- ? degs) if I am able to adjust ignition (static) timing - a feature
not available on the M1.5 distributor.



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct  1 17:30:41 1999
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Date: Sat, 02 Oct 1999 00:28:17 EET DST
From: " Jussi Tykkä" <jtykka@iobox.com>
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I was looking for information about Bimota YB4 motorcycle fuel injection system. Components, maybe pictures just anything.

Jussi

jtykka@iobox.com
  
  
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Get your email to your mobile phone - http://www.iobox.com/


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Oct  3 14:22:36 1999
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From: "Alan Smith" <alansmith@btinternet.com>
To: "DIY-EFI" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Injector I.C Info sought
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Can anybody help me identify a 21 pin Multiwatt package Injector driver chip
in a Motronic ECU ?

I think it was made by ST, formerly known as SGS.

Alan Smith


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Oct  3 16:31:55 1999
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Date: Sun, 03 Oct 1999 16:30:43 -0400
From: Darren Floen <dfloen@tbaytel.net>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Fuel injecting a 4.3
References: <199910031900.PAA01253@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Hi,i'm new to the list.I'm fairly inexperienced with electronic FI,but
i'd like to install a throttle body setup on a 1986 4.3 chevy engine.I'm
swapping this engine into my 85 Toyota truck.What type of setup would be
best?I was thinking of a Holley Pro-jection setup,but I have heard some
bad things about them.I was thinking of using the 2Di,closed loop setup.
Could i use the injection setup off say a 3.8 liter buick?Would it be
able to compensate for the larger engine?

Thanks very much for any replies,and please cc them to me at
dfloen@tbaytel.net

Darren

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct  4 04:04:20 1999
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Date: Mon, 04 Oct 1999 10:04:36 +0200
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Nic van der Walt <nvdw@cellpt.co.za>
Subject: SGS driver
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>Can anybody help me identify a 21 pin Multiwatt package Injector driver chip
>in a Motronic ECU ?
>
>I think it was made by ST, formerly known as SGS.

In all likelyhood it is just a dual or quad half bridge driver.

I have used them frequently in coil drivers. They demand an excellent
protection diode across the coil, otherwise they will fail quickly
and spectacularly. If the device is malfunctioning replace all the 
diodes around it with higher spec devices. When used with the correct
clamping diode these components are great, but expensive.

Some of the ST components have current monitoring, should work
great for injector checking.





Regards,
Nic van der Walt

------------------------------------------------------------
 Cellpoint Systems SA               http://www.cellpt.co.za
 GSM Technology for Positioning and Telematics                
------------------------------------------------------------



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct  4 08:11:04 1999
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Date: Mon, 04 Oct 1999 05:13:57 -0800
From: Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
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Darren Floen wrote:
> Hi,i'm new to the list.I'm fairly inexperienced with electronic FI,but
> i'd like to install a throttle body setup on a 1986 4.3 chevy engine.I'm
> swapping this engine into my 85 Toyota truck.What type of setup would be
> best?

That's an easy question:  You want to use the TBI setup from a 1987+
4.3.  No need to reinvent the wheel.  Some 85 and 86 4.3's also came
with TBI, but the 87+ ECM is much better understood.

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/

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From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
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> Date: Sun, 03 Oct 1999 16:30:43 -0400
> From: Darren Floen <dfloen@tbaytel.net>
> Subject: Fuel injecting a 4.3
> 
> Hi,i'm new to the list.I'm fairly inexperienced with electronic FI,but
> i'd like to install a throttle body setup on a 1986 4.3 chevy engine.I'm
> swapping this engine into my 85 Toyota truck.What type of setup would be
> best?I was thinking of a Holley Pro-jection setup,but I have heard some
> bad things about them.I was thinking of using the 2Di,closed loop setup.
> Could i use the injection setup off say a 3.8 liter buick?Would it be
> able to compensate for the larger engine?
> 
> Thanks very much for any replies,and please cc them to me at
> dfloen@tbaytel.net

Darren, if you're interested in the GM approach (should save you some
$$$), then get a TBI system from a 4.3.  They shouldn't be hard to find,
almost every S-10 from late 88 on has one. Also Astro vans, and maybe
some full size pickups?  Anyway, it doesn't get more bolt on than that. 
No reason to use the 3.8 and worry about tuning and stuff.  Also get the
service manual from whatever vehicle donates the EFI parts, that'll help
with wiring.

--steve

> 
> Darren
> 

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct  4 14:39:46 1999
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Group,
I am just starting out to convert some older motors (Ford 302, 460 for
now, but have 454 Chev and 390 AMC planned later, all in various states
of street/strip tune) and am looking for choosing a system to
"standardize"  my investment of hardware, software and "education".
Would anyone offer pros and cons for the major systems in wrecking yard
availability.
Is there any internet sources that consider the merits of one system
over another for a hot rodder?  Some items I believe important in
choosing are (order may vary):  1. loop processing speeds, 2.
"tunability" (should include backyard build it yourself kits or modules
for processors), 3. Software decoding, the understanding of control
locations for many years of availability. 4. Costs of external tuning,
software and adapters for making processor modifications.
Any suggestions welcome,
Jay


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct  4 15:27:09 1999
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From: "Alan Smith" <alansmith@btinternet.com>
To: "DIY-EFI" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Vauxhall / Opel Cavalier BIN wanted
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 20:30:01 +0100
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Dear All,

Can anybody help  me with a bin file for an Opel/Vauxhall Cavalier with
lambda probe ?

A Carlton or Omega bin would do.

regards

Alan Smith


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct  4 16:09:17 1999
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 diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu; Mon,  4 Oct 1999 22:07:52 +0200 (IST)
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 1999 22:11:25 +0200
From: yaron sadot <sodot@isdn.net.il>
Subject: os sensor
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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hi

first time i write here

is it safe to remove os if i dont have cat anymore?

i have alfa rome 33 1.7ie 8v 1994

mp3.1  bosch ecu

is going to safe mode- i mean the ecu cause i cut out the sensor?

thanks for helping out

yaron

DIY_EFI Digest wrote:

> DIY_EFI Digest         Monday, October 4 1999         Volume 04 : Number 559
>
> In this issue:
>
>         Fuel injecting a 4.3
>         SGS driver
>
> See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the
> DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 03 Oct 1999 16:30:43 -0400
> From: Darren Floen <dfloen@tbaytel.net>
> Subject: Fuel injecting a 4.3
>
> Hi,i'm new to the list.I'm fairly inexperienced with electronic FI,but
> i'd like to install a throttle body setup on a 1986 4.3 chevy engine.I'm
> swapping this engine into my 85 Toyota truck.What type of setup would be
> best?I was thinking of a Holley Pro-jection setup,but I have heard some
> bad things about them.I was thinking of using the 2Di,closed loop setup.
> Could i use the injection setup off say a 3.8 liter buick?Would it be
> able to compensate for the larger engine?
>
> Thanks very much for any replies,and please cc them to me at
> dfloen@tbaytel.net
>
> Darren
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 04 Oct 1999 10:04:36 +0200
> From: Nic van der Walt <nvdw@cellpt.co.za>
> Subject: SGS driver
>
> >Can anybody help me identify a 21 pin Multiwatt package Injector driver chip
> >in a Motronic ECU ?
> >
> >I think it was made by ST, formerly known as SGS.
>
> In all likelyhood it is just a dual or quad half bridge driver.
>
> I have used them frequently in coil drivers. They demand an excellent
> protection diode across the coil, otherwise they will fail quickly
> and spectacularly. If the device is malfunctioning replace all the
> diodes around it with higher spec devices. When used with the correct
> clamping diode these components are great, but expensive.
>
> Some of the ST components have current monitoring, should work
> great for injector checking.
>
> Regards,
> Nic van der Walt
>
> - ------------------------------------------------------------
>  Cellpoint Systems SA               http://www.cellpt.co.za
>  GSM Technology for Positioning and Telematics
> - ------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #559
> *****************************
>
> To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command:
>
>     subscribe diy_efi-digest
>
> in the body of a message to "Majordomo@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu".
>
> A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to
> subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command
>  above with "diy_efi".




From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct  4 19:21:30 1999
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From: "Al Lipper" <efi@cardozo.org>
To: "Cambra, Lance" <lcambra@email.mc.ti.com>,
        "EFI" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: EFI control unit
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 16:25:42 -0700
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You might find that the ECU6 or ECU7 could be adapted to your needs.  While
it uses an oxygen sensor for optimal calibration, it will operate just fine
without one if you do the calibration using other means.  The tables may be
edited in Excel.  Good luck.

			- Al

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cambra, Lance [mailto:lcambra@email.mc.ti.com]
> Sent: Friday, September 10, 1999 12:15 PM
> To: alipper@aol.com
> Subject: EFI control unit
>
>
> 	I'm curios as to whether or not you could help me out with a problem
> I have .  I race a 1986 ford mustang with the 2.3 liter 4 cyl . and have
> been blessed by the track I race at to use the factory EFI system .
> 	I'm looking for a way to control the fuel and idle speed only and
> eliminate the rev limiter . I have been looking into aftermarket ecu's but
> find them rather pricey for a class with a $1000.00 claiming rule
> . Besides
> I prefer to do things myself as much as I can and keep the cost
> of racing as
> low as possible .
> 	I work at Texas Instruments in Attleboro Ma. and though my
> background is mechanical I work with some very talented technicians and
> engineers that could help me with the electronics portion of the
> product .
> 	The system I would need can't use a 02 sensor because of leaded race
> fuels . Would you be willing to help me out with this problem ? I can only
> give you my word that this is for my racing program and has no affiliation
> with my work nor do I plan to market any of the devices .
> 	Please contact me if you are or are not interested in this . Thank
> You
> 								Lance Cambra
>
> lcambra@ti.com
> 								286 Mendall
> Rd.
> 								Acushnet Ma
> 02743
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct  4 21:46:19 1999
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Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 20:46:17 -0500 (EST)
From: Mike Comai <comai@expert.cc.purdue.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Jeep 258 Conversion
In-Reply-To: <199910041900.PAA17453@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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I am new to the list as well.  I have recently been looking into an
upgrade for my AMC 258 I6.  It has become clear to me that the only way to
economicly do it is to do it myself.  I have looked into Howell's kit and
it looks pretty good (aside from the $1k pricetag).  I called up and tried
to order just the GM -> AMC intake adapter and they would only sell it to
me with their "harness" and PROM.  Here is my 1st question - They charge
$350 for their harness and I asked them why it was so expensive they said
it was due to the filter for the RPM sensor.  What is the signal needed at
the computer and what kind of conditioning would I have to do to the
signal off the negative side of the coil?

I also plan on getting an adapter machined (unless there is a better way?) 
but I don't know how crucial the design is.  My thought was to take the
shop the old Carb and the new TBI and have him machine me a 1" thick
plate, putting recessed holes for the plate to manifold mount bolts and
threaded holes for the TBI to plate mounts.  How crucial is it to taper
the TBI hole to the manifold opening?  Are sharp edges ok or does it need
to be smooth? 

Last question is about the PROM.  I will probably eventually write my own
prom but initially I plan on using the prom from a 4.3L GM donor (post
'87).  Will it adapt to the 4.2L AMC motor ok? 

I would appreciate any help and suggestions for improving my approach as
this is a new thing for me.

Mike Comai
1979 Jeep CJ-5


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct  4 22:47:08 1999
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Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 22:46:33 EDT
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #559   4.3L EFI
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Hi,
      Why not a TBI setup off of a 88-91 4.3 pu????pretty standard stuff and 
lots of info on the 7747 computer.....hth's
-Carl Summers

In a message dated 10/4/99 2:20:35 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu writes:

<< 
 Date: Sun, 03 Oct 1999 16:30:43 -0400
 From: Darren Floen <dfloen@tbaytel.net>
 Subject: Fuel injecting a 4.3
 
 Hi,i'm new to the list.I'm fairly inexperienced with electronic FI,but
 i'd like to install a throttle body setup on a 1986 4.3 chevy engine.I'm
 swapping this engine into my 85 Toyota truck.What type of setup would be
 best?I was thinking of a Holley Pro-jection setup,but I have heard some
 bad things about them.I was thinking of using the 2Di,closed loop setup.
 Could i use the injection setup off say a 3.8 liter buick?Would it be
 able to compensate for the larger engine?
 
 Thanks very much for any replies,and please cc them to me at
 dfloen@tbaytel.net
 
 Darren
 
  >>

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From: "frwilk" <frwilk@email.msn.com>
To: "diy_efi" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: UEGO in the place of my stock BOSCH EGO sensor 
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 23:12:05 -0700
Organization: Microsoft Corporation
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_12FC_01BF0EBD.DF7D4580
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I have an 84 944 Porsche with a Bosch Motronic FI.=20
Someone is trying to sell a UEGO in the place of my stock BOSCH EGO =
sensor saying it is better.=20
Considering the differences in the 2 sensors, I don't see how it can =
even work much less work better.
Has anyone tried this and how is it working?

Thanks in advance,=20

FR Wilk
new member

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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>I have an 84 944 Porsche with a Bosch Motronic FI. </DIV>
<DIV>Someone is trying to sell a UEGO in the place of my stock BOSCH EGO =
sensor=20
saying it is better. </DIV>
<DIV>Considering the differences in the 2 sensors, I don't see how it =
can even=20
work much less work better.</DIV>
<DIV>Has anyone tried this and how is it working?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks in advance, </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>FR Wilk</DIV>
<DIV>new member</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_12FC_01BF0EBD.DF7D4580--



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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@oh.verio.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <199910050900.FAA28549@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #561
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 09:06:48 -0400
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If your ECU is expecting an O2 signal, it will fault it you remove it.  Some
Bosch ECUs have an open loop mode without sensor but chip must be
reprogrammed.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>

> Date: Mon, 04 Oct 1999 22:11:25 +0200
> From: yaron sadot <sodot@isdn.net.il>
> Subject: os sensor
>
> hi
>
> first time i write here
>
> is it safe to remove os if i dont have cat anymore?
>
> i have alfa rome 33 1.7ie 8v 1994
>
> mp3.1  bosch ecu
>
> is going to safe mode- i mean the ecu cause i cut out the sensor?
>
> thanks for helping out
>
> yaron
>



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct  5 13:17:50 1999
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Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 13:33:12 +0100
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: How completcated does Efi HAVE to be?
Cc: ian@spagtime.freeserve.co.uk
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Hi All,

I am into minis, something a lot of americans probably won't have even
heard of never mind seen! Up until recently minis had single point throttle
body injection. You can pick up the inlet manifold, throttle body with the
following sensors, The system is a MAP system. I was just wondering how few
sensors I need to make it work. Make my own ECU and keep it simple.
Calibration would be done on a dyno using a lap top. No need for a Heated
o2 sensor, don't need it to learn really. 

I can pick up these units for about 50ukp!!

Comments?

Ade





From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct  5 16:17:26 1999
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Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 16:17:25
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Bob Tom <tigers@bserv.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #562
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>Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 13:33:12 +0100
>From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
>Subject: How completcated does Efi HAVE to be?
>
>I am into minis, something a lot of americans probably won't have even
>heard of never mind seen! Up until recently minis had single point throttle
>body injection. You can pick up the inlet manifold, throttle body with the
>following sensors, The system is a MAP system. I was just wondering how few
>sensors I need to make it work. Make my own ECU and keep it simple.
>Calibration would be done on a dyno using a lap top. No need for a Heated
>o2 sensor, don't need it to learn really. 

There is a EFI Control System called the Alpha-N which calculates air flow by
measuring only engine rpm (via coil) and throttle position via a Throttle
Position sensor.  Pros are simple installation and compatible with radically-
cammed engines.  Cons are no closed-looped operation, inferior part-throttle
cruise metering and entire fuel map must be reprogrammed.  A MAP can be
optionally
used but mainly as a input for barometric pressure for different altitudes.
This system is used for racing or heavily-modified street engines with big
cams
and low vacuum.
 
Bob, Burlington, Ontario
'97 FR CC Sport, 5.2L, 3.55 SG, auto., 15.234 @ 87.26

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct  6 04:38:34 1999
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Date: 06 Oct 99 21:29:37 +1200
From: "Tom Parker" <parkert@ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #562
To: "DIY_EFI Digest" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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DIY_EFI Digest <DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu> wrote:

>DIY_EFI Digest        Tuesday, October 5 1999        Volume 04 : Number 562

>Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 13:33:12 +0100
>From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
>Subject: How completcated does Efi HAVE to be?

>I am into minis, something a lot of americans probably won't have even
>heard of never mind seen! Up until recently minis had single point throttle
>body injection. You can pick up the inlet manifold, throttle body with the
>following sensors, The system is a MAP system. I was just wondering how few
>sensors I need to make it work. Make my own ECU and keep it simple.
>Calibration would be done on a dyno using a lap top. No need for a Heated
>o2 sensor, don't need it to learn really.

I vaguely think that you only need a throttle position sensor and a map sensor
to do a reasonable job of EFI. However, you WILL need the crankshaft position
sensor, which means you need the flywheel, transfer case and the actual
sensor.

As you know, these are a bummer to remove from the mini, especially in a scrap
yard. Still, it is highly doable.

--
Tom Parker - parkert@ihug.co.nz
           - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct  6 09:06:56 1999
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From: "Clare Snyder" <claresnyder@home.com>
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References: <199910060900.FAA13811@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: low pressure cfi
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:07:10 -0400
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 I'm trying to put together a minimalist efi for a Soob aircraft conversion.
Looking at GM single unit TBI from a 2000 cc 1988 OHC Pontiac. Is this a
10psi injector? What flow rate?

I'm thinking a 555 triggered by ignition pulse with the base pulse set for
idle or no load conditions. A MAP sensor output fed to the control pin of
the 555 will increase the pulse width with engine load. I have several
Toyota ZZ map sensors to play with - they run on 5 to 8 volts and output a
proportional voltage. On a breadboard I mocked it up and it looks like the
scaling should be close. I plan on using a Cherry injector driver - peak and
hold.
Any insights?
For installation in the plane I would use a small header tank with  a float
(from a holley) fed by low pressure pump from main tanks, with EFI pump in
the header tank, and fuel return to the header tank. High pressure (oh wow,
10 PSI!!) would be confined to the short line from the pump to the throttle
body.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct  6 09:27:58 1999
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Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:27:25 EDT
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #562
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Earlier Haltech units used engine RPM, MAP, TPS, air inlet and engine 
temperature sensors and ran fine!  

That is all you should need to get going.

Mike

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct  6 12:47:38 1999
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From: "Kavanagh, Jason" <Jason.Kavanagh@AlliedSignal.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: IAC valve and motor body needed
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:47:21 -0700 
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I'm searching for an idle air control valve and motor body.  

The valve is the GM type used in the '88 Celebrity: 
o-ring style; bolt-on; in-line 4 pin connector.  It is Borg-Warner model
#21755.

The motor body is the one supplied by Electromotive, part number 81112.

Does anyone have these laying around and wants to part with them?

Jay
not currently subscribed, please respond directly

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct  6 13:58:55 1999
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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: FI for Mini
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 11:03:05 -0700
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Hi All,

My two cents here after finishing off a FI system for a Honda.  I did this
incrementally with a minimum of sensors to start with.  What you are really
interested in is calculating at any RPM the amount of air that will flow into
the cylinders at any RPM.  To determine the flow and therefore the air mass you
need to know the pressure outside the throttle plate and the pressure on the
other side of the throttle plate inside the manifold (MAP).  If you assume
standard pressure and temperature you end up with only needing MAP.  An O2
sensor helps here for setting up a volumetric efficiency table.

Calculate the amount of fuel the engine will need for 14.7:1 air fuel ratio
given cylinder size and injector size.  This is your starting point and is
usually a number in milliseconds that you convert to timer ticks so your micro
can program a counter to trip on and off the injector.  This value assumes 100%
volumetric efficiency.  i.e. when the intake valve closes and the piston is a
BDC the airpressure inside the cylinder is atomospheric. (almost never happens
except at cranking with throttle wide open and cranking is a special case)

Next determine the ratio of MAP/MAPWOT.  Assume MAPWOT is the same as
atmospheric pressure (emperically it's usually 1/2" Hg less than Atmospheric
(30.50"Hg)).  You can also determine MAPWOT when processor first starts up
before engine cranking begins; MAP == MAPWOT.   This ratio,  always less than 1,
is a quick way of calculating the mass of the air being pushed into the intake
manifold by the external air pressure.  Remember,  the engine doesn't really
suck in the air.  It creates a low pressure zone and the higher external air
pressure pushes the air in to fill the low pressure zone.  Just like our weather
systems.  The difference in air pressure determines how fast the air moves and
air always flows from a high pressure zone to a low pressure zone. (Can anyone
spell hurricane?).

Now,  because air has mass,  it doesn't start moving right away and doesn't stop
immediately either.  At idle RPM the piston is moving slowly so the change in
MAP is also slow.  This means with a closed throttle and low MAP (10"Hg) not a
lot of air gets into the cylinder.  The air movement has a chance to slow down
and stop moving before the next cylinder intake valve opens.  At high RPM the
piston creates this low pressure area much faster.  Although the throttle may be
totally open, and there is a small difference in MAP verses MAPWOT, the air is
moving quickly and doesn't have a chance to stop moving before the next cylinder
needs air so each cylinder is filled with more air molecules.

Therefore the amount of air that gets into the cylinder at any RPM is called
Volumetric Efficiency and is somewhat independent of Throttle position.  You can
use 200RPM steps and a single dimensional table that needs to be calculated for
VE.  Values range from about 0.3 at idle to 0.8 at WOT for street engines and
can exceed 1.0 for race engines with wild CAMs.

So the formula is PulseWidth = FuelAirRatio * (Map/MAPWOT) * VE[RPM];

This works but doesn't handle acceleration very well because the opening/closing
of the throttle can lean/richen the mixture before the math catches up.  So to
make the engine drivable,  it's a good idea to use a Throttle Position Sensor
(TPS) to add an enrichment parameter to the formula based on both absolute
throttle position and change in the TPS (dTPS).

You'll also find you need to use a different FuelAirRatio for idle verses
cranking verses running verses WOT.

A couple of extra points here.  Air temperature changes the density of the air
so an air temperature sensor will help set the mixture more precisely.  An
external air pressure sensor is also important because the vehicle may change
altitude without the engine stopping and restarting.  i.e. When you start, you
know atmospheric pressure because the MAP sensor reads static air pressure
before the engine starts turning.  But once the engine is running you may change
altitude by 5000' during a 1 hour drive.  At that point the Atmospheric Pressure
is considerably less than it was when the engine was started and so there is
less external pressure available to push the air into the intake manifold and so
for a given MAP value,  the mixture will be too rich.  This is why pilots always
have to lean out the carburator mixture as the aircraft climbs in order to avoid
fouling the spark plugs.

It's really that simple but implimentation and tuning etc. is still a lot of
work.  Don't take it all lightly.  The O2 sensor will give you a guide as to
where you are but the stock auto ones are notoriously inacurate on either side
of 14.7:1.  A second method of determining optimum mixture at high RPM is to use
Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT).  A K type thermocouple inserted into the exhaust
manifold as close as possible to the valves results in about 1400F at optimum
power.  A temperature of 1600F suggests a too lean mixture and could potentially
damage the engine and a 1200F temperature is too rich.

Whew!  There's four months work in explained in a few paragraphs.

Regards,

John



>>Subject: How completcated does Efi HAVE to be?
>>
>>I am into minis, something a lot of americans probably won't have even
>>heard of never mind seen! Up until recently minis had single point throttle
>>body injection. You can pick up the inlet manifold, throttle body with the
>>following sensors, The system is a MAP system. I was just wondering how few
>>sensors I need to make it work. Make my own ECU and keep it simple.
>>Calibration would be done on a dyno using a lap top. No need for a Heated
>>o2 sensor, don't need it to learn really.
>
>There is a EFI Control System called the Alpha-N which calculates air flow by
>measuring only engine rpm (via coil) and throttle position via a Throttle
>Position sensor.  Pros are simple installation and compatible with radically-
>cammed engines.  Cons are no closed-looped operation, inferior part-throttle
>cruise metering and entire fuel map must be reprogrammed.  A MAP can be
>optionally
>used but mainly as a input for barometric pressure for different altitudes.
>This system is used for racing or heavily-modified street engines with big
>cams
>and low vacuum.
>
>Bob, Burlington, Ontario
>'97 FR CC Sport, 5.2L, 3.55 SG, auto., 15.234 @ 87.26
>
[snip]
>------------------------------
>
>I vaguely think that you only need a throttle position sensor and a map sensor
>to do a reasonable job of EFI. However, you WILL need the crankshaft position
>sensor, which means you need the flywheel, transfer case and the actual
>sensor.
>- --
>Tom Parker - parkert@ihug.co.nz
>           - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/
>



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct  7 01:02:08 1999
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 00:59:21 -0400
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Jeep 258 Conversion
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> Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 20:46:17 -0500 (EST)
> From: Mike Comai <comai@expert.cc.purdue.edu>
> Subject: Jeep 258 Conversion
> 
> I am new to the list as well.  I have recently been looking into an
> upgrade for my AMC 258 I6.  It has become clear to me that the only way to
> economicly do it is to do it myself.  I have looked into Howell's kit and
> it looks pretty good (aside from the $1k pricetag).  I called up and tried
> to order just the GM -> AMC intake adapter and they would only sell it to
> me with their "harness" and PROM.  Here is my 1st question - They charge
> $350 for their harness and I asked them why it was so expensive they said
> it was due to the filter for the RPM sensor.  What is the signal needed at
> the computer and what kind of conditioning would I have to do to the
> signal off the negative side of the coil?
> 
> I also plan on getting an adapter machined (unless there is a better way?)
Maybe there is a better way.  Look for Holley's website, look for
service parts, then look for the adapter.  If your AMC uses a Ford
style distributor, I've seen claims that the GM module can be driven
off the Motocraft pickup coil.  This might eliminate the special
filter.  

> but I don't know how crucial the design is.  My thought was to take the
> shop the old Carb and the new TBI and have him machine me a 1" thick
> plate, putting recessed holes for the plate to manifold mount bolts and
> threaded holes for the TBI to plate mounts.  How crucial is it to taper
> the TBI hole to the manifold opening?  Are sharp edges ok or does it need
> to be smooth?
What is the present carb (1, 2, 4bbl)?  What type of tbi are you
looking for (1,2,4bbl)?  Look for Jason Weir's web page.  He's
converted a Jeep engine to GM TBI.  If you look in the DIY_EFI
archives there may be some good info.
http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/diy_efi/

> 
> Last question is about the PROM.  I will probably eventually write my own
> prom but initially I plan on using the prom from a 4.3L GM donor (post
> '87).  Will it adapt to the 4.2L AMC motor ok?
> 
> I would appreciate any help and suggestions for improving my approach as
> this is a new thing for me.
Again, look at Jason's page.  He's got some good firsthand experience
with a similar project.
Shannen
> 
> Mike Comai
> 1979 Jeep CJ-5
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct  7 11:19:00 1999
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Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 01:18:11 +1000
From: Phil Lamovie <phil@injec.com>
Organization: Injec Racing Developments
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<HTML>


<P>Hi All,

<P>Recent postings regarding MAP sensors are in need of a little
<BR>massaging.

<P>Lets start with the definition&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; manifold <B><I><U>ABSOLUTE
PRESSURE</U></I></B>
<BR>means what it says. Not relative or delta but absolute.

<P>Any ECU mapped by speed/density <B><I><U>AUTOMATICALLY</U></I></B> corrects
<BR>for engine load with altitude.

<P>Question 1

<P>How does the engine differentiate between part
<BR>throttle vacuum at sea level and full throttle at 10,000 feet ?

<P>Answer It doesn't. There is no difference.

<P>There is no need to check and record MAP value before startup.
<BR>As the pressure varies absolutely so should the fuel table value.

<P>Speed density demands only RPM and MAP (air temp correction is
<BR>not mapped but mathed. same for all other basic corrections)

<P>If the table has 16 speed values and 16 load points you will
<BR>have sufficient date to run the engine reasonably.

<P>Pilots had to correct mixtures only with badly designed fuel systems.

<P>The mech/injected engines had no such problem.

<P>Phil Lamovie
<BR>Injec Racing</HTML>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct  7 13:13:01 1999
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 10:14:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bob Moon <fzrider@yahoo.com>
Subject: Introduction
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Hello all,

  I'm new to the list, and thought I'd introduce myself.  My name is Bob Moon,
and I'm a Test Engineer at Amdahl Corporation in Sunnyvale, CA, USA.
  I am currently working on a fuel injection system for some motorcycles, and
will possibly be basing it on the EFI332 system.  The motorcycles to be
converted are a 1985 GPz900, 1995 and 96 Shadow 1100C, 1981 KZ550, and 1978
GS400.  I'll also likely install it on a 1968 Mustang.  This should be an
interesting project, as I intend to use identical base computers for all the
above bikes, so the code will have to be easily adaptable to various cylinder
configurations.

  Happy injecting,

Bob Moon
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct  7 16:34:45 1999
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Date: Thu, 07 Oct 1999 12:29:20 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Barry Tisdale <btisdale@cybersol.com>
Subject: Wastegate parameters
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Of all the GM ECU documents circulating on the web, none appear to contain the wastegate parameters for ECU control.  My specific interest is in the '91-'93 Syclone/Typhoon, but any info would be appreciated.

Thanks - Barry - Sy#26

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct  7 16:42:55 1999
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Could everyone please set thier email clients to send plain text.
HTML is for websites.
I hope I'm not the only one who feels this way.

- Eric


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct  7 19:34:20 1999
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Yikes,

Phil,  please turn off the HTML

OK.  I knew that sooner or later you'd pop in with that comment.  8-).

I don't agree with you.  Altitude does make a difference.  I can throw a bunch
of advanced Physics and Math to prove it,  (I stayed up really late one night),
but let's use common sense and intuition to come up with the result that
Bernoulli later proved.

Air is a fluid and has mass.  To move air from one place to another requires
force.  In the case of air the force is a difference in pressure between two
locations.  The key element to understanding why a lower external pressure
(outside the throttle plate) will move less air into the cylinder for an
equivelant MAP is that the difference in air pressure results in a different air
velocity.

The internal combustion engine is not a static environment but one in which time
plays a factor.  The intake valve is open for a period of time.  During that
time the piston moves down and creates a low pressure area inside the cylinder.
This causes the higher pressure area in the plenum to force air to move into the
cylinder at a velocity dependant on the difference in pressure between the two
regions.

At the same time air from the atmosphere is moving past the partially open
throttle plate at a velocity dependant on the atmospheric pressure and the MAP.
The intake valve closes before the air pressure equalizes to the value of
atmospheric pressure.  Air continues to flow into the plenum past the throttle
plate and the pressure would equalize to atmospheric if it were not for the next
intake valve opening for the next cylinder intake stroke.

So the MAP is a reflection of the velocity of the air mass flowing into the
system and the velocity over time tells you how much air has actually entered
the cylinder while the intake valve was open.

Now because the air does have mass it doesn't stop flowing just because the
valve has closed.  It piles up around the intake valve and the pressure inside
the manifold starts to increase at a rate faster than the difference in air
pressure.   When the runners are the correct length this all works together to
create a sort of supercharger like puff into the next opening intake valve which
actually improves the breathing of the engine.

The faster the piston goes down,  the more extreme the difference in pressure
between the intake manifold and the inside of the cylinder and the faster the
air will flow.  You can simulate this with a pressure gauge and a bit of hose.
Suck at the end of the hose until the gauge reads 10"Hg. and then block the hose
with your tongue.  If there are no leaks the pressure will stay at that value.
Put a pinhole into the side of the hose and you have to continue to suck to
maintain a value like 15"Hg.  Suck faster and you can draw the pressure down to
10"Hg. but you're also moving more air.

Now I am not saying that a Pulsewidth[MAP,RPM] table will not produce a nice
clean precise fuel mixture for an engine.  It does.  But,  the MAP and the RPM
only tell you how fast the air in the intake manifold will travel into the
cylinder and not how fast the replacement air moves that is drawn into the
manifold past the throttle plate.  Yes,  on average a higher altitude will
create an average lower MAP and lean off the mixture a little;  but not enough
simply because the Dyno runs for that MAP and RPM value had a different pressure
outside the throttle plate and the replacement air moves at a higher velocity.

The velocity of the airmass and the time the intake valve is open is the
important part of the equation.  This is why Mass Air Flow Sensors like the ones
on SAABs etc have an automatic altitude compensation and work so well with Turbo
Chargers;  which in effect, change the pressure outside the throttle plate
causing a higher velocity air flow (and a resultant higher MAP) and more air
into the cylinders.

Phil,  a while ago you posted the comment that no one had made a case for a
barometer in a vehicle.  Hope this helps.

Regards,

John


>Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 01:18:11 +1000
>From: Phil Lamovie <phil@injec.com>
>Subject: Re: Up Up and away
>
><HTML>
>
>
><P>Hi All,
>
><P>Recent postings regarding MAP sensors are in need of a little
><BR>massaging.
>
><P>Lets start with the definition&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; manifold <B><I><U>ABSOLUTE
>PRESSURE</U></I></B>
><BR>means what it says. Not relative or delta but absolute.
>
><P>Any ECU mapped by speed/density <B><I><U>AUTOMATICALLY</U></I></B> corrects
><BR>for engine load with altitude.
>
><P>Question 1
>
><P>How does the engine differentiate between part
><BR>throttle vacuum at sea level and full throttle at 10,000 feet ?
>
><P>Answer It doesn't. There is no difference.
>
><P>There is no need to check and record MAP value before startup.
><BR>As the pressure varies absolutely so should the fuel table value.
>
><P>Speed density demands only RPM and MAP (air temp correction is
><BR>not mapped but mathed. same for all other basic corrections)
>
><P>If the table has 16 speed values and 16 load points you will
><BR>have sufficient date to run the engine reasonably.
>
><P>Pilots had to correct mixtures only with badly designed fuel systems.
>
><P>The mech/injected engines had no such problem.
>
><P>Phil Lamovie
><BR>Injec Racing</HTML>
>



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct  8 01:30:51 1999
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Date: Sun, 07 Nov 1999 19:40:45 +0100
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: RE: How completcated does Efi HAVE to be?
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At 05:00 06/10/99 -0400, you wrote:
>>I am into minis, something a lot of americans probably won't have even
>>heard of never mind seen! Up until recently minis had single point throttle
>>body injection. You can pick up the inlet manifold, throttle body with the
>>following sensors, The system is a MAP system. I was just wondering how few
>>sensors I need to make it work. Make my own ECU and keep it simple.
>>Calibration would be done on a dyno using a lap top. No need for a Heated
>>o2 sensor, don't need it to learn really.
>
>I vaguely think that you only need a throttle position sensor and a map
sensor
>to do a reasonable job of EFI. However, you WILL need the crankshaft position
>sensor, which means you need the flywheel, transfer case and the actual
>sensor.

Surely it doesn't have to be *that* accurate? Why not use the coil? 2 per
Rev should be enough, you only need speed not accurate position?

Ade

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct  8 01:30:53 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: RE: How completcated does Efi HAVE to be?
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At 05:00 06/10/99 -0400, you wrote:
>>I am into minis, something a lot of americans probably won't have even
>>heard of never mind seen! Up until recently minis had single point throttle
>>body injection. You can pick up the inlet manifold, throttle body with the
>>following sensors, The system is a MAP system. I was just wondering how few
>>sensors I need to make it work. Make my own ECU and keep it simple.
>>Calibration would be done on a dyno using a lap top. No need for a Heated
>>o2 sensor, don't need it to learn really. 
>
>There is a EFI Control System called the Alpha-N which calculates air flow by
>measuring only engine rpm (via coil) and throttle position via a Throttle
>Position sensor.  Pros are simple installation and compatible with radically-
>cammed engines.  Cons are no closed-looped operation, inferior part-throttle
>cruise metering and entire fuel map must be reprogrammed.  A MAP can be
>optionally
>used but mainly as a input for barometric pressure for different altitudes.
>This system is used for racing or heavily-modified street engines with big
>cams and low vacuum.

What about coolant temperature for a 'choke'? I am not bothered about
closed loop stuff. I am used to carbs. I would just be nice to be able to
plug a serial lead into it and tweek the mixure and the throttle pump
rather than filing needles and changing the oil in the dash pot (Su carbs).

Thanx,

Ade

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct  8 01:55:24 1999
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Date: 08 Oct 99 18:53:15 +1200
From: "Tom Parker" <parkert@ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Backward 02 sensor?
To: "Diy Efi" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Hi,

I built an EGO sensor gauge using a Jaycar kit based around the LM3914.

I got my sensor off a Mitubishi 3 litre v6 car. I don't know what model, as
the badges were missing in the bone yard.

The gauge works as expected.

The sensor does not. It seems to be backwards. As I understand it, low
voltages point to a lean condition and high voltages point to rich. On the
car, my guage reads about 0.85v cruise and flashes to around 0.1v when you hit
the throttle. I'm running it in an out of tune mini, which is running rather
lean at the moment.

When I pull the choke out, the voltage drops to around 0.1v.

The sensor seems to respond very quickly, and does everything that I expected
from reading here, except that the voltages seem to be reversed.

I had it in a flame from a butane torch, and it would read very low voltages
while inside the flame, and would read 0.85v while in the air or in the 
flame exhaust. On occasion the voltage went negative, to about -0.1v.

Is this normal? Anything to worry about?

The sensor is a 4 wire unit, and I couldn't find any manufacturer's name,
although there is something undneith some underseal on it.


--
Tom Parker - parkert@ihug.co.nz
           - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct  8 06:57:45 1999
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From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic@xephic.dynip.com>
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> Surely it doesn't have to be *that* accurate? Why not use the coil? 2 per
> Rev should be enough, you only need speed not accurate position?

If you live in 70 degree weather year round, you can get away with
crank/cam position and Throttle position only, and use a simple trigger
to fire injectors and/or DIS systems.  A group of us fooled around with
a 555 timer on a mailing list called "simpleefi", and some of the folks
started to build it.  Not sure what is up.  This of course doesn't
compensate for barometric or temperature changes. Shove a 0-5V MAF in
the system and you will get some of this control.

The problem with all this "simple" stuff is that there are so many
things that will affect your engine's performance, two sensors and a MAF
isn't going to cut it if you want mileage and performance and
acceleration all year round.  I agree that its not specifically
necessary to have 32-bit digital electronics to achieve this, however
with the technology getting smaller, faster and more reliable every day,
its certainly becoming easier to use.


-- 

Frederic Breitwieser
Xephic Technology
769 Sylvan Ave #9
Bridgeport CT 06606

Tele: (203) 372-2707
 Fax: (603) 372-1147
Web: http://xephic.dynip.com/

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct  8 07:06:57 1999
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Date: 09 Oct 99 00:04:15 +1200
From: "Tom Parker" <parkert@ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #567
To: "DIY_EFI Digest" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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DIY_EFI Digest <DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu> wrote:

>Date: Sun, 07 Nov 1999 19:40:45 +0100
>From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
>Subject: RE: How completcated does Efi HAVE to be?

>At 05:00 06/10/99 -0400, you wrote:
>>
>>I vaguely think that you only need a throttle position sensor and a map
>sensor
>>to do a reasonable job of EFI. However, you WILL need the crankshaft
>>position sensor, which means you need the flywheel, transfer case and the
>>actual sensor.

>Surely it doesn't have to be *that* accurate? Why not use the coil? 2 per
>Rev should be enough, you only need speed not accurate position?

If you want to do ignition from the computer, then you need to know rather
accuratly. If you are going to leave the distributor, then yes, using the
coil would work.

Now, are you guys on the digest, or is it just me. I remember a few months ago
the server got constapated and we were all switched onto the digest. I had to
resign for a while, and now I'm back, but on the digest still, is everyone
digesting?

--
Tom Parker - parkert@ihug.co.nz
           - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct  8 09:40:39 1999
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Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 09:40:33 -0700
From: Will McGonegal <McGonegal.Will@etc.ec.gc.ca>
Organization: Environment Canada
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Subject: RE: How completcated does Efi HAVE to be? Not that complicated!
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>>to do a reasonable job of EFI. However, you WILL need the crankshaft position
>>sensor, which means you need the flywheel, transfer case and the actual
>>sensor.

>Surely it doesn't have to be *that* accurate? Why not use the coil? 2 per
>Rev should be enough, you only need speed not accurate position?

>Ade

I'd agree, you DON'T need the crankshaft position sensor (flywheel, transfer case and the actual sensor).  An input from the spark ignition will sufice (distributor? surely that's already on the engine).  That's
all you  need to get speed.  You can use timers to delay injector firings after the spark triger, if you MUST get complicated.

How can I get one of those cheapy Mini injection systems in Canada?!

Will McGonegal
Project Engineer/Dynamometer Developer
Emissions Research and Measurment Division
Environment Canada


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct  8 12:03:45 1999
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From: William T Wilson <fluffy@snurgle.org>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #567
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On Fri, 8 Oct 1999, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:

> >sensor, which means you need the flywheel, transfer case and the actual
> >sensor.
> 
> Surely it doesn't have to be *that* accurate? Why not use the coil? 2 per
> Rev should be enough, you only need speed not accurate position?

No, it does.  You have to have a very good accuracy (I think the minimum
is 6 "steps" per revolution) because otherwise the system will get
confused when the engine changes speed quickly.


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct  8 13:28:21 1999
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In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.3.96.991007153354.3766A-100000@head.hoser.com> from "eclark@hoser.com" at Oct 7, 99 03:34:53 pm
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> Could everyone please set thier email clients to send plain text.
> HTML is for websites.
> I hope I'm not the only one who feels this way.

You aren't.  It's pretty unreadable to my client.

Keep it to plain text please.

Orin, list admin.


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct  8 15:52:02 1999
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From: justin w ivan und stnt <jwi0939@megahertz.njit.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: injectors
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Can anyone point me to a good source of Porsche injectors. I am looking
for a stock set from a 944 turbo? They do not have to be new as I would
send them out to get cleaned anyway but I am looking for an inexpensive
source. The best price I have found is $68 a piece but if you can get
mustang injectors for $125 for a set of 8 I think you should be able to
get the 944 injectors cheaper.
 Also can anyone tell me the correctr way to size intercooler piping for a
turbo car? Should it be the same size as the turbo outlet, Throttle body
or the endcaps on the intercoolers. Anyhelp would be appreciated.
  Justin



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct  8 17:21:15 1999
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This conversation is very interesting to me because I rely on a wide array
of sensors on my project and find that each one is necessary.  I hope
people do not try to invest in fuel injection with the tought of keeping it
simple will keep it cheap and then I can aford to upgrade.  I think this is
the wrong approach to fuel injection.  My experience is it cost MONEY to do
it and do it correctly.  The question is not so much how complicated does
EFI have to be but how sophisticated.  None of these sensors or triggering
devices for fuel or spark management is that complicated.  The value  of
them is in the ECM's ability to read them and through precise programming,
by you or the computer defaults, modifying the fuel and spark events for
best power and torque.

If you truly want it simple, put on a 3310 Holley.  If you want the
benefits of injection spend the money and the time to install all relevant
sensors, have the ability to monitor and record them, spend the time
understanding what they are telling you and utilize this data to dial in
the system.  This is the area you will spend the most time and effort in
and it will be worth it.  Be sure you also invest in systems which allow
you to directly interface and change programming in the computer.  Based on
your sensor data, RPM, LOAD (VAC), THROTTLE POSITION, O2 READING, H2O TEMP
AND INLET AIR, you will be able to dial in your system at that point of
engine operation.  To dial in a fuel injection system you may have to dial
in as many as 256 fuel and spark map points for proper operation.

As a side note the most valuable tool I invested into my EFI project (515
hp, 535 lb-ft  sb Chevy) is an EGT system from Autometer.  I monitor at
least two cylinders at all times and record all peaks.  The differences
between being 10% lean or rich and on the money are definitely worth the
price of admission.

Invest the money and time to do it right.!!!!




From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct  8 18:12:50 1999
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Well CSH, HQ is back on line.
Got one very good lung, (verified by X-Ray, by me).
Amazing capacacity.

Surgery was really tough, heart kept stopping, so got one of 2 possible 
lungs.  Was so bad they turned anthesia was down, and I remember parts of 
it, that is something to be avoided, test me, on what a open heart messauge 
feels like.

Have drop foot but down to using a cane for that, hopefully will finish 
clearing that out, soon.

All in all, no pain.  Or given enough medicicne to numb it, best part is 2 
days after surgery, taken off O2, so no more pushing green bottles aroung

Staff (of 7), here and eating out alll the time is getting expensive, so we

bee making every effort to get back to acrcanum real soon


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct  8 18:22:57 1999
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From: Will McGonegal <McGonegal.Will@etc.ec.gc.ca>
Organization: Environment Canada
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> > >sensor, which means you need the flywheel, transfer case and the actual
> > >sensor.
> >
> > Surely it doesn't have to be *that* accurate? Why not use the coil? 2 per
> > Rev should be enough, you only need speed not accurate position?
>
> No, it does.  You have to have a very good accuracy (I think the minimum
> is 6 "steps" per revolution) because otherwise the system will get
> confused when the engine changes speed quickly.

I did some calculations to check into what kind of errors you'd get on your speed under constant acceleration if you used a single pulse per revolution

Speed [rpm]=> V1 =  60.0 / (T1 - T0)

Case 1:

Engine accelerates from 600 to 6000 rpm in 0.5 seconds (no load?!)

The first revolution takes 0.063597837 seconds.  The speed change is 600 to 1287 rpm.  With that time period you'd calculate the speed to be 943 rpm.  A 27%, or 344 rpm error.

After 27 revolutions (0.494977295 s) the engine turns at 5946 rpm.  One more revolution (0.010000405 s) later the engine is at 6054 rpm.  We calculate that speed to be 6000 rpm (1 %, or 54 rpm error)

Case 2:

Engine accelerates from 600 to 6000 rpm in 5 seconds (0 -60 mph?)

The first revolution takes 0.092327988 seconds.  The speed change is 600 to 700 rpm.  With that time period you'd calculate the speed to be 650 rpm.  A 7%, or 50 rpm error.

After 27 revolutions (4.989990984 s) the engine turns at 5989 rpm.  One more revolution (0.010009016 s) later the engine is at 6000 rpm.  We calculate that speed to be 5995 rpm (0.09 %, or 5 rpm error).

Since case 1 is probably not normal operation, the error there is probably acceptable.  If the case 2 error is still too high for a DIYer, then one could also calculate the rate of acceleration (from two (or more)
time periods) and factor that into the speed calculation to get a value that is closer to the actual speed.  I tried a simple acceleration calculation which reduced the error of the 1st revolution in Case 2 to 3
rpm.

More pulses per revolution will increase accuracy but do all applications need it?  I think you could do it with a pulse every second revolution and have it run better then a carburetor.

Will McGonegal



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From: "Warwick Anderson" <warricka@in4free.com.au>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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hi all
im new to the list and need some help

iv got a jap import motor, a toyota   1ggze with out the supercharger(2
litre 24V DOHC)
when thay remove these,  thay just cut all around the motor till it comes
out so the harness gets the chop. i cant get a new harness.
i cant seem to get hold of a wiring diagram for this motor. i can get the
ECU for it but this is not much good to me as i cant wire it up
i was thinking about the efi332 project or using a GM unit mabe as i can get
the wiring for GM stuff (used to work for  em )
i would have to  some how reprogram the GM unit as the toyota motor is only
2 litre.
any body help please!!
nothing worse than having a new toy that ya cant use






From diy_efi-owner  Sat Oct  9 06:06:00 1999
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Subject: RE: How completcated does Efi HAVE to be? Not that complicated!
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DIY_EFI Digest         Friday, October 8 1999         Volume 04 : Number 568

Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 09:40:33 -0700
From: Will McGonegal <McGonegal.Will@etc.ec.gc.ca>
Subject: RE: How completcated does Efi HAVE to be? Not that complicated!

>>>to do a reasonable job of EFI. However, you WILL need the crankshaft
position
>>>sensor, which means you need the flywheel, transfer case and the actual
>>>sensor.

>>Surely it doesn't have to be *that* accurate? Why not use the coil? 2 per
>>Rev should be enough, you only need speed not accurate position?

>>Ade

>I'd agree, you DON'T need the crankshaft position sensor (flywheel,
transfer case and >the actual sensor).  An input from the spark ignition
will sufice (distributor?
>surely that's already on the engine).


Bosch LE/LE2 based systems have been taking EFi trigger signals from the
ignition for years..
Don't lose sight of the big problem with mini's - siamesed ports! For those
not so familiar, the head has two inlet ports which each split in two to
feed two inlet valves; Cyls 1&2 are fed by one inlet tract and cyls 3&4 fed
from the second. Throw the firing order into the equation, and you will
appreciate the problem of mixture distribution, specially from a throttle
body injection arrangement. for this reason, Mini's run with uneven mixture
across the cylinders even with carbs that feed fuel into the airstream
continuously. Consider what happens when you inject pulses of fuel into the
airflow way back at the throttle body, synchronous with the engine cycle.
This is why I believe some (if not all) TBi sytems inject 'asynchronously'
(randomly?). Certainly Vauxhall/Opel Multec TBI systems inject 5 pulses per
cycle to try and spread out the uneven distribution so that each cylinder
gets a fighting chance of seeing reasonable mixture on average.

Multipoint systems with an injector per cylinder obviously overcome most of
these problems, but on the mini's siamesed ports it's difficult to
physically arrange this as the port split is in the head.

Don't let this put you off - Rover obviously achieve reasonable results;
indeed if you 're not using the 'A' series engine, and you've got an 8-port
head, then please bung this message in the bin...

Good luck!

Rich


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Oct  9 07:21:00 1999
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Date: 10 Oct 99 00:17:15 +1200
From: "Tom Parker" <parkert@ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #569
To: "DIY_EFI Digest" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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DIY_EFI Digest <DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu> wrote:

sorry for mangling the quotes...

>> No, it does.  You have to have a very good accuracy (I think the minimum
>> is 6 "steps" per revolution) because otherwise the system will get
>> confused when the engine changes speed quickly.

>I did some calculations to check into what kind of errors you'd get on your
>speed under constant acceleration if you used a single pulse per revolution

>Speed [rpm]=> V1 =  60.0 / (T1 - T0)

<good stuff snipped>

>More pulses per revolution will increase accuracy but do all applications
>need it?  I think you could do it with a pulse every second revolution and
>have it run better then a carburetor.

>Will McGonegal

If you hook up to the coil, using a distributor to drive the ignition, then
you get 2 pulses per revolution on 4 cyclinders, 3 from 6 cycl and 4 from 8

I think you could easily do with only the distributor as a crank position
input, SO LONG AS YOU DO NOT CONTROL THE IGNITION SYSTEM from the computer. If
you want to do ignition timing, then those errors are going to hit you (well,
I have a qualitative feeling that they will matter).

--
Tom Parker - parkert@ihug.co.nz
           - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Oct  9 07:40:04 1999
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From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: Up Up and away
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At 05:00 08/10/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Now I am not saying that a Pulsewidth[MAP,RPM] table will not produce a nice
>clean precise fuel mixture for an engine.  It does.  But,  the MAP and the
RPM
>only tell you how fast the air in the intake manifold will travel into the
>cylinder and not how fast the replacement air moves that is drawn into the
>manifold past the throttle plate.  Yes,  on average a higher altitude will
>create an average lower MAP and lean off the mixture a little;  but not
enough
>simply because the Dyno runs for that MAP and RPM value had a different
pressure
>outside the throttle plate and the replacement air moves at a higher
velocity.

Right you have sold me, BUT (very big but) How bad is the effect? It cannot
be that bad other wise cars with Carbs would suffer problems wouldn't they?
Unless you are wrong :-)

Ade

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Oct  9 09:38:37 1999
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From: garfield@cyberlynk.com (Gar Willis)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, nacelp@jvlnet.com (CSH-HQ)
Subject: Lungs Online
Date: Sat, 09 Oct 1999 06:42:39 -0700
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On Sat, 9 Oct 1999 05:00:01 -0400,
DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu (DIY_EFI Digest) wrote:

>Well CSH, HQ is back on line.
>Got one very good lung, (verified by X-Ray, by me).
>Amazing capacacity.

Major congrats, Bruce! And it sounds like you had a bit of an ordeal
there, eh? Oh well, that sorta operation would stop anyone's heart. :)

Good to have ya back, and kickin.

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Oct  9 13:04:55 1999
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        DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: American engine sizes
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At 05:00 09/10/99 -0400, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:
>i would have to  some how reprogram the GM unit as the toyota motor is only
>2 litre.

Sorry guys not much to do with Efi but... This make me giggle. Us people
who are into minis say WOW... when sombody squeezes a 1600honda engine in a
Mini The biggest engine you see in any 'average' car in this country is a 2
litre it is not until you start talking about top of the range BMWs and
other BIG fast stuff that it gets much over near 3 litres!!! 

BTW a std mini engine is 1.3 litres and the first ones were 848cc!!

Ade


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Oct  9 13:04:58 1999
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        DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
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At 05:00 09/10/99 -0400, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:
>i would have to  some how reprogram the GM unit as the toyota motor is only
>2 litre.

Sorry guys not much to do with Efi but... This make me giggle. Us people
who are into minis say WOW... when sombody squeezes a 1600honda engine in a
Mini The biggest engine you see in any 'average' car in this country is a 2
litre it is not until you start talking about top of the range BMWs and
other BIG fast stuff that it gets much over near 3 litres!!! 

BTW a std mini engine is 1.3 litres and the first ones were 848cc!!

Ade


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Oct  9 19:19:01 1999
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Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 19:18:44 EDT
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #570
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In a message dated 10/9/99 3:59:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu writes:

<< diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
  >>
Hi , I'm new to this mailing list. I've been reading some of your messages on 
how simple a fuel injection system can be. Just before I graduated H. S.  in 
98 my school auto program put efi on our race car. Its a 82 regal with a 454, 
Th. 400 trans and 3.73 gears in the rear.  We were running low 12's and then 
with the efi took the car in to the 11.50 area. this car has never really 
been tuned to its potential it only see's 5200 rpm through to traps and it 
shifts out of 1st and 2nd around 6300.  Its Holleys Pro-Jection system. You 
can find info on the web at Holley's web page. All it has for inputs are 
temp, tps, and a tach sig. I believe the temp sensor only controls the idle 
solenoid and a/f below 165 degrees. Theirs 5 or 6 knobs to control the mix 
and its real easy to set up.

Brian
Just in case anyone cares I work at a Pontiac Cadillac dealership as a 
drivability quy!

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Oct 10 10:50:42 1999
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Hi John et al,
 sorry 'bout the html had to reload NT (i moved the mouse)and got all
of the default settings.

Now to buisness.

The abundance of calculations offered is in no way
justified by the starting assumptions.

The tribology of gaseous flows is both relevant and
irrelevant in the same breath.

The approach to fuel injection as a science of calculations
is not a valid one if you accept that the simplest solution is the
best.

The "manifold absolute pressure" is by it's very explanation
a measure of the environment INSIDE the manifold. It has no concern
with the outside weather conditions ONLY the inside.

The original question remains unanswered. How can the engine tell...

Lets take an engine on the dyno at 35% throttle at 3000 rpm.

Air temp 20 deg C pressure in manifold 70 kPa Absolute.
We adjust our fuel and spark table to give target A/F ratio
of 13.5:1 with MBT as the spark setting. 

I will assume that at this time all the relevant perturbations of the
air column are taking place in all of their Bernoullian Wonderment. 

The very simple point to be had here is that next time the same air
temp and pressure are found at the same rpm then the same stored
values for fuel and spark will of course produce the same A/F ratio. 

Note how I completely left out the throttle position. It may be that
at 15,000 feet ASL the WOT pressure will be only 70 kPa. If the engine
is at 3000 rpm and the air temp is the same the Volumetric efficiency
of the engine is the same. 

The real test for flow is NOT across the butterfly !!! It is of course
a variable device where as the inlet port is not. The speed of the air
through the inlet port will of course be the same at the same manifold
ABSOLUTE pressure and temp and rpm.

Carbys care about air velocity EFI couldn't give a rats arse.
 
This is very relevant with plenum type manifolds some what diff with
individual trumpets as the mass of the External fraction causes the
MBT to be found at slightly shorter trumpet lengths.

As all of the mechanical components are bound by their shape in the
repetition of their function so is the ecu bound to give the same
values for fuel and spark.

The point of measuring the pressure is to know what map point to use
and how much interpolation b/w points is required.

There is absolutely no need to calculate the mass of the atmosphere on
Earth and then divide that by the ratio of volume of inlet manifold.
Though it would work.

Please note the total lack of Patents for Altitude correction of
aircraft fuel injection computers. Also total lack of altitude sensors
on all Ford and GM vehicles. I suppose they don't have mountains in
the 
USA.

My company has also supplied ECUs for Aircraft that have flown from
England to Australia, film is available from National Geographic.
I promise they were all fitted with absolute sensors. The engine were
all dynoed on a thirty foot tower (they had very big props about 33
feet
span) 650 hp at sea level)) and then flew half way around the world.

Hope the simplicity of it is not too hard to fathom.

Phil

Injec Racing Developments

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Oct 10 13:01:57 1999
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From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #571
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At 05:00 10/10/99 -0400, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:

>Hi , I'm new to this mailing list. I've been reading some of your messages
on 
>how simple a fuel injection system can be. Just before I graduated H. S.  in 
>98 my school auto program put efi on our race car. Its a 82 regal with a
454, 
>Th. 400 trans and 3.73 gears in the rear.  We were running low 12's and then 
>with the efi took the car in to the 11.50 area. this car has never really 
>been tuned to its potential it only see's 5200 rpm through to traps and it 
>shifts out of 1st and 2nd around 6300.  Its Holleys Pro-Jection system. You 
>can find info on the web at Holley's web page. All it has for inputs are 
>temp, tps, and a tach sig. I believe the temp sensor only controls the idle 
>solenoid and a/f below 165 degrees. Theirs 5 or 6 knobs to control the mix 
>and its real easy to set up.

In theory (dons flame proof jacket) Carbs can be every bit as good as fuel
injection. It is just that carbs have a little bit of an art to setting
them up. FI you just plug a lap top in and correct what needs correcting
Like that.

Ade

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From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #570
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At 15:00 09/10/99 -0400, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:
>I think you could easily do with only the distributor as a crank position
>input, SO LONG AS YOU DO NOT CONTROL THE IGNITION SYSTEM from the
computer. If
>you want to do ignition timing, then those errors are going to hit you (well,
>I have a qualitative feeling that they will matter).

If you are controling the igntion system you would have a VERY accurate CPS
so you would just take the speed reading for the Fuel injection from the
CPS. The whole point of using the coil is that you don't have a CPS in the
first place as the engine was orriginally a carbed engine and the CPS is
expensive for minis at the moment.

Ade

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From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #570
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At 15:00 09/10/99 -0400, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:
>I think you could easily do with only the distributor as a crank position
>input, SO LONG AS YOU DO NOT CONTROL THE IGNITION SYSTEM from the
computer. If
>you want to do ignition timing, then those errors are going to hit you (well,
>I have a qualitative feeling that they will matter).

If you are controling the igntion system you would have a VERY accurate CPS
so you would just take the speed reading for the Fuel injection from the
CPS. The whole point of using the coil is that you don't have a CPS in the
first place as the engine was orriginally a carbed engine and the CPS is
expensive for minis at the moment.

Ade

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Oct 10 13:01:57 1999
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        DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #570
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At 15:00 09/10/99 -0400, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:
>Subject: RE: How completcated does Efi HAVE to be? Not that complicated!
>Bosch LE/LE2 based systems have been taking EFi trigger signals from the
>ignition for years..

That is good to know.

>Don't lose sight of the big problem with mini's - siamesed ports! For those
>not so familiar, the head has two inlet ports which each split in two to
>feed two inlet valves; Cyls 1&2 are fed by one inlet tract and cyls 3&4 fed
>from the second. Throw the firing order into the equation, and you will
>appreciate the problem of mixture distribution, specially from a throttle
>body injection arrangement. for this reason, Mini's run with uneven mixture
>across the cylinders even with carbs that feed fuel into the airstream
>continuously. Consider what happens when you inject pulses of fuel into the
>airflow way back at the throttle body, synchronous with the engine cycle.
>This is why I believe some (if not all) TBi sytems inject 'asynchronously'
>(randomly?). Certainly Vauxhall/Opel Multec TBI systems inject 5 pulses per
>cycle to try and spread out the uneven distribution so that each cylinder
>gets a fighting chance of seeing reasonable mixture on average.

Carbs manage it acceptably I was thinking of just streaming fuel in the
same way carbs do. After all Tbi is just a carb with an injector controled
by a processor rather than 'machincal means'

>Don't let this put you off - Rover obviously achieve reasonable results;
>indeed if you 're not using the 'A' series engine, and you've got an 8-port
>head, then please bung this message in the bin...

SU carbs have been doing it for 40 years!!! 8 port!! Don't be silly!!
<shiver> :-)

Mind you there are the Arden heads 8 port X flow/8 Valve and KAD 16V alloy
heads But if I had that sort of money I would need to ask you lot would I!!!

Thanx,

Ade

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        DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #571
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At 05:00 10/10/99 -0400, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:

>Hi , I'm new to this mailing list. I've been reading some of your messages
on 
>how simple a fuel injection system can be. Just before I graduated H. S.  in 
>98 my school auto program put efi on our race car. Its a 82 regal with a
454, 
>Th. 400 trans and 3.73 gears in the rear.  We were running low 12's and then 
>with the efi took the car in to the 11.50 area. this car has never really 
>been tuned to its potential it only see's 5200 rpm through to traps and it 
>shifts out of 1st and 2nd around 6300.  Its Holleys Pro-Jection system. You 
>can find info on the web at Holley's web page. All it has for inputs are 
>temp, tps, and a tach sig. I believe the temp sensor only controls the idle 
>solenoid and a/f below 165 degrees. Theirs 5 or 6 knobs to control the mix 
>and its real easy to set up.

In theory (dons flame proof jacket) Carbs can be every bit as good as fuel
injection. It is just that carbs have a little bit of an art to setting
them up. FI you just plug a lap top in and correct what needs correcting
Like that.

Ade

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Oct 10 13:02:03 1999
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        DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #570
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At 15:00 09/10/99 -0400, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:
>Subject: RE: How completcated does Efi HAVE to be? Not that complicated!
>Bosch LE/LE2 based systems have been taking EFi trigger signals from the
>ignition for years..

That is good to know.

>Don't lose sight of the big problem with mini's - siamesed ports! For those
>not so familiar, the head has two inlet ports which each split in two to
>feed two inlet valves; Cyls 1&2 are fed by one inlet tract and cyls 3&4 fed
>from the second. Throw the firing order into the equation, and you will
>appreciate the problem of mixture distribution, specially from a throttle
>body injection arrangement. for this reason, Mini's run with uneven mixture
>across the cylinders even with carbs that feed fuel into the airstream
>continuously. Consider what happens when you inject pulses of fuel into the
>airflow way back at the throttle body, synchronous with the engine cycle.
>This is why I believe some (if not all) TBi sytems inject 'asynchronously'
>(randomly?). Certainly Vauxhall/Opel Multec TBI systems inject 5 pulses per
>cycle to try and spread out the uneven distribution so that each cylinder
>gets a fighting chance of seeing reasonable mixture on average.

Carbs manage it acceptably I was thinking of just streaming fuel in the
same way carbs do. After all Tbi is just a carb with an injector controled
by a processor rather than 'machincal means'

>Don't let this put you off - Rover obviously achieve reasonable results;
>indeed if you 're not using the 'A' series engine, and you've got an 8-port
>head, then please bung this message in the bin...

SU carbs have been doing it for 40 years!!! 8 port!! Don't be silly!!
<shiver> :-)

Mind you there are the Arden heads 8 port X flow/8 Valve and KAD 16V alloy
heads But if I had that sort of money I would need to ask you lot would I!!!

Thanx,

Ade

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Oct 10 17:45:05 1999
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In-Reply-To: <3800A799.78E9F3A7@injec.com> from "Phil Lamovie" at Oct 11, 99 00:50:01 am
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> Note how I completely left out the throttle position. It may be that
> at 15,000 feet ASL the WOT pressure will be only 70 kPa. If the engine
> is at 3000 rpm and the air temp is the same the Volumetric efficiency
> of the engine is the same. 

What about effects on exhaust back pressure caused by lower
barometric... I'd think it would reduce the residual pressure
in the cylinder at the end of the exhaust stroke, allowing more
air in for a given MAP.

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Oct 10 20:11:39 1999
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Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 20:11:05 EDT
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #572
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Does the Holley system also control the spark curve?
Fuel management is just one of the fucnctions in the Holley
 system that I'm familiar with..  (4di?)
There are significant strengths on the spark management side
that would be hard to accomplish with points and advance weights....
Mike V
 
>  In theory (dons flame proof jacket) Carbs can be every bit as good as fuel
>  injection. It is just that carbs have a little bit of an art to setting
>  them up. FI you just plug a lap top in and correct what needs correcting
>  Like that.
>  

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Oct 10 20:33:50 1999
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From: "Warwick Anderson" <warricka@in4free.com.au>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 1227808
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 10:46:14 +1000
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i can get a delco 1227808 and think theres a old kit just down the road  =
for a eprom programer thing=20
is this what i need to reprogram the delco to run a toyota motor?
thanx

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<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>i can get a delco 1227808 and think theres a old kit =
just down=20
the road&nbsp; for a eprom programer thing </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>is this what i need to reprogram the delco to run a =
toyota=20
motor?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>thanx</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_002A_01BF13D5.D6FB04C0--


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Oct 10 20:59:38 1999
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From: "Bill the arcstarter" <arcstarter@hotmail.com>
To: phil@injec.com, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re:Up Up and Away
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 17:52:35 PDT
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Phil Lamovie <phil@injec.com> wrote:

>The very simple point to be had here is that next time the same air
>temp and pressure are found at the same rpm then the same stored
>values for fuel and spark will of course produce the same A/F ratio.

Thats how I see it.

>Note how I completely left out the throttle position. It may be that
>at 15,000 feet ASL the WOT pressure will be only 70 kPa. If the engine is 
>at 3000 rpm and the air temp is the same the Volumetric efficiency of the 
>engine is the same.

For systems equipped with either mass air flow or MAP, my understanding is 
that the TPS is only used for limp-home mode, determination of WOT vs run vs 
idle states, and enrichment/leanment during rapid transitions.

>Please note the total lack of Patents for Altitude correction of
>aircraft fuel injection computers. Also total lack of altitude sensors on 
>all Ford and GM vehicles. I suppose they don't have mountains in the USA.

Hmm.  Could the O2 sensor closed loop operation account for this?

Or - altitude could be faked out by reading the MAP while the engine is 
stopped.  Then you could account for it.  Of course this assumes that the 
car is stopped every once in awhile (probbaly a reasonable thing).  I know 
for a fact that some outboard marine engine controllers do this.

-Bill
'84 Suburban w/ 350 w/ Holley-4Di

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

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Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #572
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Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 14:23:19 +0100
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #570

At 15:00 09/10/99 -0400, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:

>>Don't lose sight of the big problem with mini's - siamesed ports! For
those
>>not so familiar, the head has two inlet ports which each split in two to
>>feed two inlet valves; Cyls 1&2 are fed by one inlet tract and cyls 3&4
fed
>>from the second. Throw the firing order into the equation, and you will
>>appreciate the problem of mixture distribution, specially from a throttle
>>body injection arrangement. for this reason, Mini's run with uneven
mixture
>>across the cylinders even with carbs that feed fuel into the airstream
>>continuously. Consider what happens when you inject pulses of fuel into
the
>>airflow way back at the throttle body, synchronous with the engine cycle.
>>This is why I believe some (if not all) TBi sytems inject 'asynchronously'
>>(randomly?). Certainly Vauxhall/Opel Multec TBI systems inject 5 pulses
per
>>cycle to try and spread out the uneven distribution so that each cylinder
>>gets a fighting chance of seeing reasonable mixture on average.

>Carbs manage it acceptably I was thinking of just streaming fuel in the
>same way carbs do. After all Tbi is just a carb with an injector controled
>by a processor rather than 'machincal means'

Ade,
The point I was trying to make (and it's pretty significant), is that you
can't 'continuosly stream' from a TBI injector, it's either on or off, it
squirts defined amounts of fuel at predefined intervals. Theoretically, you
could turn on and off a lot more times in the engine cycle to approach the
carb 'model', but I think if you use a big enough injector to cope with high
load flow, you'd run into calibration problems at low speed because of the
short 'on' period.
I've been trying to confirm if Rover use the same principle as GM, ie.
asynchronous injection - no answer yet....

ps. take your point about Arden/KAD heads; just covering myself in case I
was up the wrong tree.
Rich.



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From: "Vinny Jaeger" <WhistleBlowers@bigpond.com>
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #572
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Date: Monday, (10/11/1999 for those in US)
From: Ken Thompson   kent@superflow.com.au

Subject:
1.    Free CAD drawing package.
2.    More O2 for that altitude fire. "Phil + John"
3.    Engine breathing and air flow in general.
4.    Windows 2000 warning.

Hello All,

******************* FREE CAD ***************************
"PC Authority Magazine" (Australia) www.pcauthority.com.au gave away a
full copy of TurboCAD version 5 in the June 99 issue. The magazine costs
$5.95 ($3.80 US?) and for $6.00 US a swag of extra libraries
can be purchased from the manufacturer. PC Authority do provide back
issues, so it is still available. I did not go for the extra libraries
because
we use DesignCAD www.designcad.com  Our neighbour in the next
building over has been using TurboCAD since this freebie came along and
they reckon that it is pretty good. Another associate just paid
$6,500.00 AU or so for AutoCAD and I really can't see the value. Our
DesignCAD Pro 2000, does more with less clicks than I see AutoCAD being
able to do.
*************** More O2 please ******************************
33 foot propellers? That must be one big mother of an aircraft? But 650
hp doesn't sound like enough to drive even the starter motor of such a
monster.
ONLY JOKING!
That 10,058 mm prop must be part of your test stand, or your pilot must
sit about
22 feet off the ground in his / her cock pit? I have seen many systems
where engines
are mounted on platforms, but surely 30 feet above sea level is not much
of an altitude simulation? I guess a good reason for using a 30 foot
tower, is that "it was
already there" and you did not have to build it, or better still, pay
for it.?
I would have thought that testing a little closer to ground zero would
have been more
convenient, given the torque / speed envelope available at the crank? or
gearbox? I can think of easier ways to do that job. But if the tower was
already
there and you did not have to pay for the tower / props etc, then the
solution used was
quite fine. Come on Phil, you have got me tuned. You have wet my
appetite
with a small volume of data attached to a tall prop story.
A 30 foot centre height with an extra 16 foot 6 six inches above that,
to the blade tip.
Watch out all you low flying black birds, Momma Mixmaster is coming to
get you!
WHY 33 FOOT PROPS?
Between yourself, Foetinger, Carl Schenk and Froude, there must have
been a prettier way?
The subject that is being tugged at here, won't be turned into truth by
personal opinion.
An over night calculation won't hold up. There are enough papers
available
on this subject, if used in an open fire, to warm a home in Antarctica
for the next 10,000 years.
A friend, Ray Hall www.turbofast.com.au knows all about the effects of
altitude on
internal combustion engines. Rays firm fits turbo chargers,
intercoolers, aneroids etc
to new commercial diesel Toyota Landcruisers, which are then exported to
Indonesia, for the sole purpose of carrying gear, parts, men etc from
sea level, up the side of
a 15,000 foot mountain. This is real mountain goat stuff. Last time I
looked, Ray
had some interesting data on his site on this altitude question.
TURBOFAST also builds 1500 HP race boats that have won most races they
have entered, including US and European races. Check it out for
yourself.
                                 ***************
Any decent dynamometer data system will correct for Temperature (I like
transducer in
the manifold = MAT), barometric pressure and of course humidity. We do
not directly
worry whether testing is carried out on top of Everest or below sea
level at the bottom
of the Kalgoorlie Super Pit. Knowing the test cell air temperature is
great, but knowing
MAT is better. Your lecturers will refer you to the right papers, or the
SAE data base is
the place to start when seeking good data on this subject.

************* Engine Breathing and Wave Action **********************
Go to ftp://ftp.superflow.com.au and download "Dynomation.ZIP". Then
print the
users manual. There you will find a reference on wave action / induction
tuning,
that will most assuredly help (us) all to better understand engine
breathing.
Can also be downloaded at www.audietech.com  On the FTP site there is
also an
interesting program called "SpringMaster" which is designed to reveal
the RPM at
which springs will surge and valves will bounce.

***************** Windows Warning **************************
We Australians have it, you Americans are soon to get it.
When one buys a Win2000 product here, it comes with a time bomb. After
installation,
one is permitted to fire up one's own software but 50 times, then over
it falls. The cure
for this circus is to log on to the Microsoft site and press the
"register now" icon within
the new program that you have just paid dearly for. You see Bill wants
to take a good look
at your registry (I guess)? This is a question and NOT a statement as
you can see.
If we Aussies go like sheep to the slaughter, without objection, then
you all best get ready
for some of what we've got.

******************** Our Reply to Billy Boy*********************
We have "Red Hat version 6", running on one workstation and "freeBSD" on
a server. I have
just ordered a free SUN SOLARIS operating system (for Intel).
www.sun.com/solaris/freesolaris.html and
will soon start testing the FREE "Star Office" office suite, which is
also sourced from
SUN. It appears as though, STAR will do all that Microsoft can do, but
at very much
"the right price". Soon we will no longer have to put up with Bill
and his bull.
When interfacing a PC to a remote logger / control system via TCP/IP,
who cares what operating system is used? So long as it is reliable
and fast!

Regards,
Ken.

Superflow Engineering is located within the Commonwealth of Australia,
we have no relationships with any foreign companies.


> Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 00:50:01 +1000
> From: Phil Lamovie <phil@injec.com>
> Subject: Re:Up Up and Away
>
> Hi John et al,




From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 11 11:43:58 1999
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<< There are significant strengths on the spark management side
 that would be hard to accomplish with points and advance weights....
 Mike V
   >>

Yeah, it's called a magnetic pickup that fires a solid state coil controller, 
and a vacuum advance for part throttle cruise.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 11 12:30:34 1999
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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re:Up Up and Away
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 08:56:49 -0700
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Hi Phil,

>
>Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 00:50:01 +1000
>From: Phil Lamovie <phil@injec.com>
>Subject: Re:Up Up and Away
>
>Hi John et al,
> sorry 'bout the html had to reload NT (i moved the mouse)and got all
>of the default settings.

I've pressed a few wrong buttons too.  ;-)

>Please note the total lack of Patents for Altitude correction of
>aircraft fuel injection computers. Also total lack of altitude sensors
>on all Ford and GM vehicles. I suppose they don't have mountains in
>the
>USA.


That GM and Ford don't use them is irrelevant.  They also didn't use overhead
CAM engines until the Japanese and European automakers started impacting their
bottom line.  Once fuel prices changed in the US their attitude did too.   Most
California polution testing is done close to sea level and they have the most
stringent specifications.  The tests are done at idle while the O2 sensor is in
closed loop mode. A rich mixture at Full Torque RPM is never tested for and most
vehicles don't run in that mode anyway.  An engine idling at a high RPM because
it was tuned at sea level but tested at 5000' ASL would be sent to the shop
where the engine would be adjusted to pass the tests at that altitude.

An inability to patent basic physics is not an indication of the lack of basic
physics.

>
>My company has also supplied ECUs for Aircraft that have flown from
>England to Australia, film is available from National Geographic.
>I promise they were all fitted with absolute sensors. The engine were
>all dynoed on a thirty foot tower (they had very big props about 33
>feet
>span) 650 hp at sea level)) and then flew half way around the world.


The reduction gear would have to keep the propellor tip speed below the speed of
sound and in either case the aircraft propellor is primarily interested in best
fuel economy at maximum torque - not maxium horsepower.

As I said before,  it's not that the MAP-RPM doesn't or won't work;  it's just
not the optimum solution and the pilot that might have to land his aircraft 100
metres from the runway with empty tanks would prefer the optimum solution.

>
>Hope the simplicity of it is not too hard to fathom.

>Phil


I think I'll leave this discussion rather than retort on simplicity verses
complexity and perhaps we can just agree to disagree.

Regards,

John



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 11 12:57:29 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 13:37:19 +0100
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #572
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Sorry about the repeated messages.... Think I have fixed the problem now....

Ade

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 11 12:59:49 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 02:59:11 +1000
From: Phil Lamovie <phil@injec.com>
Organization: Injec Racing Developments
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> Or - altitude could be faked out by reading the MAP while the engine > is stopped.
Then you could account for it.  Of course this assumes > > that the
car is stopped every
once in awhile (probbaly a reasonable > thing).  I know for a fact
that some outboard
marine engine > controllers do this.

If you map the engine properly and assume that it's wear rate is zero
then you can infer barometric pressure from your manifold absolute
pressure/rpm/tps/air temp association.

if 30% tps at 3000 rpm at 20 deg C produces 35 kPa instead of 38 kPa
MAP previously you could safely state that there is going to be a
storm
soon as the barometer is down 30 points or 3 kPa (30 millibars)

The marine engines will go blind if they don't stop it.

Comparative states of rpm vs MAP and TPS are used for error
checking of sensors, Acc enrichment, gear selection and so on.

Regards

Phil Lamovie

Injec Racing developments

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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 19:44:58 +1000
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silly as it sounds but dose my multi point fire all injectors at the =
same time or only as each valve opens??=20

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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>silly as it sounds but dose my multi point&nbsp;fire =
all=20
injectors at the same time or only as each valve opens??=20
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 11 13:25:38 1999
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Message-ID: <38021D6C.8BA2C54E@injec.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 03:25:00 +1000
From: Phil Lamovie <phil@injec.com>
Organization: Injec Racing Developments
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #573
References: <199910110900.FAA21544@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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> What about effects on exhaust back pressure caused by lower
> barometric... I'd think it would reduce the residual pressure
> in the cylinder at the end of the exhaust stroke, allowing 
> more air in for a given MAP.

> Orin.

Except for the fact that back pressure of the exhaust is not 
a function of the outside pressure as much as a function of
exhaust manifold configuration and pipe diameter/length/rotation.

Exhaust pipes are too long and the exhaust event too short for
the atmosphere to effect it much. The entire event at 280 degrees
of duration at 3000 rpm is 280/360/20 msec or 15.55 msec.
And of course this is no flow for the first or last 20 degrees
of cam lost in taking up the slack. now 220/360/20 or 12.22 msec

The in cylinder pressure at the time of the exhaust opening
would be in the order of 250 to 400 psi. (varies a lot with engine
load.)

As for allowing "more air in" the air flow is a function of the 
pressure differential between the in cylinder volume and the plenum
chamber pressure. The piston has been past top dead and the chamber
has been purged of exhaust. In fact about this time some new air fuel
mixture is following the exhaust gas out the still open exhaust valve
courtesy of a small "low pressure" event in the exhaust manifold.

This pressure event is exhaust gas speed/density/temp related
though not immune to air pressure out side the effects would be more
mechanical as the "spring" value of the air would alter and this
would detune the tertiary part of the wave trap.

Phil Lamovie

Injec Racing

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 11 13:44:48 1999
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Message-ID: <380221F2.DC8EADE6@injec.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 03:44:18 +1000
From: Phil Lamovie <phil@injec.com>
Organization: Injec Racing Developments
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 33 foot propellers? That must be one big mother of an aircraft?
References: <199910110900.FAA21544@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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'Tis a Vickers Vimmy 1918 Model Bomber
2 x 454 chevy big blocks with from memory a 4:1 redux
giving about 2500 ft/lbs or about 90 mph flat stick
One section of the trip was aborted due to 100 mph
head winds !! they were flying backwards !!!

The test stand was for US certification of the redux
which was required to be "bench" tested for 30 hours.
The aircraft had to be registered somewhere and as it
was designed in England and built in Australia it seemed
only fair to register it in the country that has the most
lax aviation rules. 

The prop had to be used to "simulate" the cyclic loading on the box

The engines were mounted between the upper and lower wings
about 20 feet off the ground.

The tower was built and paid for by National Geographic
funding. (so it was free)

The size of the props was "calculated" on the predicted
available torque at rated rpm. The "engineers got it about 
25% wrong. (they guessed too low)

Net result was that the pilots used the extra (non certified)
power trying to out run a monsoon and busted a crank.

Apparently this caused " some noticeable vibration"

Regards

Phil Lamovie

Injec Racing

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 11 16:14:44 1999
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From: "Steve Leonard" <gsxr1300@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Wanted: Haltech F3
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 13:01:21 PDT
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My Haltech F3 is terminal, anybody have a F3 they want to sell?

regards
Steve

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 11 16:42:34 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 20:54:31 +0100
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #573
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At 05:00 11/10/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Ade,
>The point I was trying to make (and it's pretty significant), is that you
>can't 'continuosly stream' from a TBI injector, it's either on or off, it
>squirts defined amounts of fuel at predefined intervals. Theoretically, you
>could turn on and off a lot more times in the engine cycle to approach the
>carb 'model', but I think if you use a big enough injector to cope with high
>load flow, you'd run into calibration problems at low speed because of the
>short 'on' period.

That will make life difficult. However, All of the air that flows into the
intake goes into a combustion chamber eventually. So you have to get the
right amount of fuel into all of the air? You cannot just squirt stuff in
occasionally. Which is where 'continous stream' comes in Obviously as the
injector is only an on/off valve you would have your Pulse width modulation
and hope pulses of fuel are disturbed enough by the throttle butterfly to
even them out.

>I've been trying to confirm if Rover use the same principle as GM, ie.
>asynchronous injection - no answer yet....

I understand the general what most of the different sensors do as it is
fairly easy to convert from Carb to FI if you understand what each sensor
is doing. However I can only do this for the stuff that works in a similar
way to carbs.. stuff like asyncronous injection is a little beyond me at
the moment. could someone explain or is there a site that explains these
somewhere? 

FWIW the rover mini system is a MEMS system... what ever that means.

Thanx,

Ade

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 11 16:42:34 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 20:38:41 +0100
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #573
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At 05:00 11/10/99 -0400, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:
>Or - altitude could be faked out by reading the MAP while the engine is 
>stopped.  Then you could account for it.  Of course this assumes that the 
>car is stopped every once in awhile (probbaly a reasonable thing).  I know 
>for a fact that some outboard marine engine controllers do this.

Outboard engines are FI???? Wow!! Things have changed in the past 5 years.
Why would they do this? Manufacturers are still putting ECUs in the engine
bay of cars. This is a pretty nasty place for electronics. I can see the
reason for putting FI in cars as it improves fuel ecconomy and power along
with controling the fuel so that it doesn't clog the CAT. But why on a
small outboard engine? Surely you would want to keep the thing as simple as
possible using NO electronics as Sea water isn't electronics freindly by
any means.

Coments?

Ade

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 11 18:47:57 1999
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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #571
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What school did you go to?

-----Original Message-----
From: DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
[mailto:DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]
Sent: Sunday, October 10, 1999 4:00 AM
To: DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #571



DIY_EFI Digest        Sunday, October 10 1999        Volume 04 : Number 571



In this issue:

	Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #570

See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 19:18:44 EDT
From: Bja1078@aol.com
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #570

In a message dated 10/9/99 3:59:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu writes:

<< diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
  >>
Hi , I'm new to this mailing list. I've been reading some of your messages
on 
how simple a fuel injection system can be. Just before I graduated H. S.  in

98 my school auto program put efi on our race car. Its a 82 regal with a
454, 
Th. 400 trans and 3.73 gears in the rear.  We were running low 12's and then

with the efi took the car in to the 11.50 area. this car has never really 
been tuned to its potential it only see's 5200 rpm through to traps and it 
shifts out of 1st and 2nd around 6300.  Its Holleys Pro-Jection system. You 
can find info on the web at Holley's web page. All it has for inputs are 
temp, tps, and a tach sig. I believe the temp sensor only controls the idle 
solenoid and a/f below 165 degrees. Theirs 5 or 6 knobs to control the mix 
and its real easy to set up.

Brian
Just in case anyone cares I work at a Pontiac Cadillac dealership as a 
drivability quy!

------------------------------

End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #571
*****************************

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    subscribe diy_efi-digest

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<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>What school did you go to?</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>-----Original Message-----</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>From: =
DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>[<A =
HREF=3D"mailto:DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu">mailto:DI=
Y_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu</A>]</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Sent: Sunday, October 10, 1999 4:00 AM</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>To: DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Subject: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #571</FONT>
</P>
<BR>
<BR>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>DIY_EFI =
Digest&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sunday, October 10 =
1999&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Volume 04 : Number =
571</FONT>
</P>
<BR>
<BR>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>In this issue:</FONT>
</P>

<P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT SIZE=3D2>Re: =
DIY_EFI Digest V4 #570</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>See the end of the digest for information on =
subscribing to the </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT =
SIZE=3D2>---------------------------------------------------------------=
-------</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 19:18:44 EDT</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>From: Bja1078@aol.com</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #570</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>In a message dated 10/9/99 3:59:20 PM Eastern =
Daylight Time, </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu =
writes:</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>&lt;&lt; diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp; &gt;&gt;</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Hi , I'm new to this mailing list. I've been reading =
some of your messages on </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>how simple a fuel injection system can be. Just =
before I graduated H. S.&nbsp; in </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>98 my school auto program put efi on our race car. =
Its a 82 regal with a 454, </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Th. 400 trans and 3.73 gears in the rear.&nbsp; We =
were running low 12's and then </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>with the efi took the car in to the 11.50 area. this =
car has never really </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>been tuned to its potential it only see's 5200 rpm =
through to traps and it </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>shifts out of 1st and 2nd around 6300.&nbsp; Its =
Holleys Pro-Jection system. You </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>can find info on the web at Holley's web page. All =
it has for inputs are </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>temp, tps, and a tach sig. I believe the temp sensor =
only controls the idle </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>solenoid and a/f below 165 degrees. Theirs 5 or 6 =
knobs to control the mix </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>and its real easy to set up.</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Brian</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Just in case anyone cares I work at a Pontiac =
Cadillac dealership as a </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>drivability quy!</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>------------------------------</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #571</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>*****************************</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the =
command:</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; subscribe diy_efi-digest</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>in the body of a message to =
&quot;Majordomo@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu&quot;.&nbsp; </FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is =
also available; to</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>subscribe to that instead, replace =
&quot;diy_efi-digest&quot; in the command</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;above with &quot;diy_efi&quot;.</FONT>
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Subject: holley projection
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hello could you please help me obtain a copy of the Hondo- program please
thank you very much
Joe D

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 11 19:17:27 1999
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From: "crash70" <crash70@epix.net>
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Subject: MAP Sensors & Pushrods
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 19:21:01 -0400
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With all this talk of MAP sensors, I have to ask the question: What is the
best way of measuring incoming air on an engine? Flap doors are obviously a
huge restriction. Hot wire and film sensors seem like a good method, but
MAPs are TOTALLY unobtrusive on the intake system.

I've noticed that the majority of American cars use MAP sensors, as well as
newer Hondas. European manufacturers seem to favor the film or wire sensor.
Is it an economic issue, like the American resistance to ditch pushrods?


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 11 20:05:26 1999
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> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 00:50:01 +1000
> From: Phil Lamovie
> Subject: Re:Up Up and Away
>
> <snip>
>
> There is absolutely no need to calculate the mass of the atmosphere on
> Earth and then divide that by the ratio of volume of inlet manifold.
> Though it would work.
>
> Please note the total lack of Patents for Altitude correction of
> aircraft fuel injection computers. Also total lack of altitude sensors
> on all Ford and GM vehicles. I suppose they don't have mountains in
> the
> USA.
>
Don't know about the altitude stuff, but GM does use the map sensor for baro
correction
due to elevations changes, some even have a second map sensor dedicated for baro
readings.
('85 Buick Regal, non-turbo)

BobR

> My company has also supplied ECUs for Aircraft that have flown from
> England to Australia, film is available from National Geographic.
> I promise they were all fitted with absolute sensors. The engine were
> all dynoed on a thirty foot tower (they had very big props about 33
> feet
> span) 650 hp at sea level)) and then flew half way around the world.
>
> Hope the simplicity of it is not too hard to fathom.
>
> Phil
>
> Injec Racing Developments
>
> ------------------------------
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 11 20:50:35 1999
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------=_NextPart_000_0077_01BF14A1.59381100
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any one got a copy of a v6 bin file for a 808/165 that i could get =
please?

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>any one got a copy of a v6 bin file for a 808/165 =
that i could=20
get please?</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0077_01BF14A1.59381100--


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 12 04:50:45 1999
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are there 808 .ecu and . bin files on the ftp site?
if there are what are thay calle dand where are thay ?
can any body help ? pleazzzzzz

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>are there 808 .ecu and . bin files on the ftp=20
site?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>if there are what are thay calle dand where are thay =

?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>can any body help ? =
pleazzzzzz</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_003C_01BF14E4.6BC90B60--


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 12 08:41:15 1999
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found that html switch 
sorry bout that


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 12 09:07:36 1999
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Subject: 98 Golf TDI MAF sensor
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I was given a left over from someone elses car project.  It is a MAF
sensor from a '98 VW Golf TDI MAF sensor and engine harness, it's never
been used.  I would like to use this to measure mass air flow rate on
another small engine but have had trouble finding a pinout and signal
discription for it.  I have access to a flow bench so that I can map out
the signal/air flow to understand what I'm seeing when I hook it up to
the engines air intake.  Can any of you help me out?  

There are 4 wires coming from it and the colors are:
light blue
light blue with brown stripe
yellow with black stripe
purple with red stripe

The 2 blue wires are twisted together.  Could these be the signal
wires?  What kind of signal, pulse or analog?  I'm tempted to think the
yellow/blk is ground and the purple/red is power, but would power be
Vbat or 5V?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

-- 
. David Rhoads II  
. Applied Dynamics International
. 3800 Stone School Road, Ann Arbor, Mi 48108
. (734) 973-1300                                                
. rhoads@adi.com   website:  www.adi.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 12 10:08:13 1999
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Subject: RE: How simple...
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 13:36:05 +0100
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>FWIW the rover mini system is a MEMS system... >what ever that means.

"Modular Engine Management System".
In principle the same ECU is fitted to every post-Lucas era 'MEMS'
controlled Rover engined vehicle model (Honda engined versions use Jap
electronics); that includes Mini, 200, 400, 600(turbo only) 800 and MGF.
There obviously need to be variations due to engine spec - capacity, TBI or
multi-point inj., ignition type - distributor or distributorless, turbo or
nat-asp., etc. This is where the 'Modular' bit comes in; the ECU is
fundamentally based on the same internals with various different hardware
configurations and programs to accomodate the different sensors and
actuators required for each individual application.
You will come across a few different 'version' designators; eg. MEMS1.3,
MEMS1.6, MEMS1.9 which   roughly segregate the applications.
All MEMS systems use as a minimum the following sensors:
Crank position
Coolant temperature
MAP
Throttle position
Inlet Air temperature

Additional sensors , depending on application, include:
Knock
Cam position (for Distributorless ignition)
Lambda (post-1992 catalyst vehicles)
Fuel rail temperature

All MEMS systems control ignition, either single coil or distributorless.
All systems use a stepper motor controlled throttle stop for idle speed
control.

Hope this is of interest.
Rich



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 12 10:23:12 1999
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> Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 19:21:01 -0400
> From: "crash70" <crash70@epix.net>
> Subject: MAP Sensors & Pushrods
>
> With all this talk of MAP sensors, I have to ask the question: What is the
> best way of measuring incoming air on an engine? Flap doors are obviously a
> huge restriction. Hot wire and film sensors seem like a good method, but
> MAPs are TOTALLY unobtrusive on the intake system.
>
> I've noticed that the majority of American cars use MAP sensors, as well as
> newer Hondas. European manufacturers seem to favor the film or wire sensor.
> Is it an economic issue, like the American resistance to ditch pushrods?
>
>

I think it is a matter of cost.
Yesterday I daignosed a 91 Plymouth Laser with a 2.0 turbo motor as having a bad MAF
sensor. (Real errratic idle untill the MAF was disconnected forcing the computer to
use the default setting, ran perfectly at idle with the MAF disconnected).
The MAF is a dealer item only at $670!!. The average MAP is about $50 retail.

> > Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 00:50:01 +1000
> > From: Phil Lamovie
> > Subject: Re:Up Up and Away
> >
> > <snip>
> >
> > There is absolutely no need to calculate the mass of the atmosphere on
> > Earth and then divide that by the ratio of volume of inlet manifold.
> > Though it would work.
> >
> > Please note the total lack of Patents for Altitude correction of
> > aircraft fuel injection computers. Also total lack of altitude sensors
> > on all Ford and GM vehicles. I suppose they don't have mountains in
> > the
> > USA.
> >

Surely engine vacuum is relative to the ambient atmospheric pressure. And as the MAP
sensor is vented to atmosphere it will have a fair degree of self correction for
altitude.




From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 12 10:37:39 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 10:37:53 -0700
From: Will McGonegal <McGonegal.Will@etc.ec.gc.ca>
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> Outboard engines are FI???? Wow!! Things have changed in the past 5 years.
> Why would they do this?
> But why on a small outboard engine?Coments?
>
> Ade

How about emissions regulations.  Fish have a right to clean water too!  Two strokes
puke out a lot of nasty pollutants.

Will McGonegal
Project Engineer/Dynamometer Developer
Emissions Research and Measurement Division
Environment Canada


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From: Stuart Hastings <stuart@hal.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
CC: DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: marine engine FI
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> At 05:00 11/10/99 -0400, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:
> >Or - altitude could be faked out by reading the MAP while the engine is 
> >stopped.  Then you could account for it.  Of course this assumes that the 
> >car is stopped every once in awhile (probbaly a reasonable thing).  I know 
> >for a fact that some outboard marine engine controllers do this.

Marine FI can probably get away with this, unless you run your boat
down (or up) the side of a mountain with the engine running.
"Over the falls," perhaps :-) ?

> Outboard engines are FI???? Wow!! Things have changed in the past 5 years.
> Why would they do this? Manufacturers are still putting ECUs in the engine
> bay of cars. This is a pretty nasty place for electronics. I can see the
> reason for putting FI in cars as it improves fuel ecconomy and power along
> with controling the fuel so that it doesn't clog the CAT. But why on a
> small outboard engine? Surely you would want to keep the thing as simple as
> possible using NO electronics as Sea water isn't electronics freindly by
> any means.

Marine two-stroke engines have aroused the Federal EPA, and they're on
a ten-year program of gradually tightening emissions through 2006.

EPA looked at off-road engines, and decided that marine engines were
the next logical target. They catagorized marine engines as diesel,
two-cycle, and four-cycle. I didn't pay attention to what they did
about diesels (probably nothing at this time). However, they noticed
that carbureted two-cycle engines passed 25-30% of their fuel directly
out their exhaust.

The technology employed to fix this is DFI; injecting fuel directly
into the cylinder, after the piston has risen enough to close the
exhaust port. Mercury uses a system they licensed from Orbital (of
Australia), OMC bought a company named Ficht (of Germany), and Yamaha
has developed their own. As I recall, Ficht uses a special injector
that develops about 450psi, Orbital uses ~90psi mixed with a blast of
compressed air, and Yamaha uses ~700psi. There are some explanatory
websites:

	www.mercurymarine.com
	www.orbeng.com.au
	www.omc-online.com

I haven't looked at Yamaha's web site; they may not have a writeup
yet, as I don't think they've shipped yet.

Curiously, while DFI reduces oil consumption, it doesn't really
address the oil-emission question. Apparently EPA agrees this is not a
major pollution issue at this time. Manufactures are quick to tout the
reduced fuel consumption of DFI, and many satisfied customers agree
it's real.

EPA has purposely avoided any smog regulations for four-stroke marine
engines, with the expressed intent of encouraging their use. Since the
existing marinized car engines were emitting about 25% of the smog
(measured in grams/kW/hour) of carbureted two-strokes, this sort of
makes sense. As I understand it, a 2006-compliant two-stroke is almost
as clean as an unregulated 4bbl SBC, neglecting the oil issue.

Since DFI is expensive, and the law requires a gradual cleanup, large
marine engines (>100HP) are being converted one-at-a-time to DFI, and
smaller engines to four-stroke. Marine two-stroke ECUs seem to be
relatively up-to-date, with proprietary laptop connections and flash
memories.

The wild card is the California Air Resources Board. They've enacted
much stricter standards than the Federal EPA, and no two-cycle
manufacturer has agreed to meet them yet.

stuart hastings

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 12 19:46:08 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 19:45:30 EDT
Subject: Chrysler IC's in ECU
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I have a 85 Chrysler K-car,  I looking for information on the IC's that are 
in the ECU

   The IC's are  :  Motorola  SC88352CP           CPU
                         Motorola  SC87313CP            Port Expander ?
                              ??       +B8432                   RAM ?
                              ??       4289473                 driver IC's

Any info about mid 80's chrysler ECU internal workings will be helpfull.  I 
see alot about Ford and GM, but nothing yet on Chrysler.

             Please respond to     JECFL98@aol.com




                           

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 12 20:54:13 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 19:53:03 -0500 (EST)
From: Mike Comai <comai@expert.cc.purdue.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RX-7 EFI system
In-Reply-To: <199910121900.PAA19018@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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My friend has an RX-7 (early '90s pretty much standard equipped I
believe) which is running fairly rich. I haven't looked at
it yet but I'm going to help him troubleshoot it later this week.  Does
mazada use a similar system to GM?  Im thinking it's pretty different ..
anyway can anyone give me any advice to troubleshoot it, or insight into
how Mazda setup their sytem on their rotary motor?  I'm guessing it's an
an o2 sensor but I'm not expecting it to be that simple.

Mike Comai



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 12 21:08:36 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 20:08:35 -0500 (EST)
From: Mike Comai <comai@expert.cc.purdue.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: More RX7 info...
In-Reply-To: <199910121900.PAA19018@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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I got some more info on the RX7 I mentioned in my previous email ... it's
an '88 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II,  Model 13B of the motor,  5-speed manual.  Any
info would help,

Mike


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct 13 01:56:30 1999
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Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 02:55:42 +1000
From: Phil Lamovie <phil@injec.com>
Organization: Injec Racing Developments
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Outboard engines are FI???? Wow!! and how !
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Hi Ade etal,

Not only are the newer (larger) outboards injected but the two
systems in use are really very sophisticated compared to your
average passenger vehicle.

The "small" engine system is by Fichtel & Sachs (they also make
clutch components for Ferrari F1) this is used on engines up to
180 - 200 hp. The "big" engine system is by the Australian company
Sarich Technologies (famous for their 2 stroke air/fuel injection
car engines). 

The Sarich system has a special injector that injects both fuel 
and a proportion of the air in an effort to enable very complete
combustion.

The Clean Air Research Board is responsible for the Legislation
that forced the big 4 to go full on high tech.

If not for the sophisticated fuel/ignition systems the outcome
would have been 4 stroke outboards with c/v carbys.

This is still the most likely outcome for the smaller engines
(below 50 hp) as the power to weight is less of a concern
to fisherpeople than ski/race types. And the system cost is of more
concern to the manufacturers.

As far as sea water is concerned please see epoxy resin 
encapsulation as the perfect solution. "No sir we can't repair
the unit you will need to buy a new one."

Regards

Phil

Injec Racing



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct 13 01:56:36 1999
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From: Phil Lamovie <phil@injec.com>
Organization: Injec Racing Developments
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Hi Ade etal,

Not only are the newer (larger) outboards injected but the two
systems in use are really very sophisticated compared to your
average passenger vehicle.

The "small" engine system is by Fichtel & Sachs (they also make
clutch components for Ferrari F1) this is used on engines up to
180 - 200 hp. The "big" engine system is by the Australian company
Sarich Technologies (famous for their 2 stroke air/fuel injection
car engines). 

The Sarich system has a special injector that injects both fuel 
and a proportion of the air in an effort to enable very complete
combustion.

The Clean Air Research Board is responsible for the Legislation
that forced the big 4 to go full on high tech.

If not for the sophisticated fuel/ignition systems the outcome
would have been 4 stroke outboards with c/v carbys.

This is still the most likely outcome for the smaller engines
(below 50 hp) as the power to weight is less of a concern
to fisherpeople than ski/race types. And the system cost is of more
concern to the manufacturers.

As far as sea water is concerned please see epoxy resin 
encapsulation as the perfect solution. "No sir we can't repair
the unit you will need to buy a new one."

Regards

Phil

Injec Racing



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct 13 01:57:33 1999
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Message-ID: <3803821B.81C97226@injec.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 04:46:51 +1000
From: Phil Lamovie <phil@injec.com>
Organization: Injec Racing Developments
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: engine idling at a high RPM
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Hi John et al,

> An engine idling at a high RPM because it was tuned at sea level 
> but tested at 5000' ASL would be sent to the shop where the 
> engine would be adjusted to pass the tests at that altitude.

An engine that was idling at more than 1% above the factory
specification has one of the following problems.

1. Air leak inlet manifold
2. Stuck idle speed control device.
3. Dead ECU output to ISC
4. Idle air bleed open so far ISC closed fully can't compensate
5. ECU confused about idle set point or rpm reading error
6. Faulty water temp reading high (ECU mode overtemp)

It's very hard to achieve closed loop fuel control at idle if you
don't pre light the cat.

> The tests are done at idle while the O2 sensor is in closed 
> loop mode. A rich mixture at Full Torque RPM is never tested 
> for and most...


The certification test are conducted using chassis dynos with
inertia correction and continuos gas sampling with "bagging"
and post test analysis on a second by second and total mass
pollutants per vehicle mass per distance driven.

The car is first "soaked" at 24 deg C for 24 hours and then
positioned on the dyno. A techie drives the vehicle trying to 
keep a dot on a monitor between two snaky lines which are
a speed demand. An error of 1.5% in speed is an abort test 
and resoak. (big career no-no)

Total driving time for both city and highway test are 54
minutes for the "New York" test. This simulates 27 minutes of
really ugly stop start traffic with brief burst up to 92 km/hr.
Some of the braking requires two feet on the pedal ! Full throttle is
used for about 1/3 of lower powered vehicles and at some stages the
autos kick down a gear or two.

As it is speed dependent big engine light cars do quite well until
the weight is factored in for grams/kg/km results.

The Highway cycle is not a pollution issue it is for economy
comparisons.

The 92 km/hr is the break point for "lean cruise". Most OEM's
choose 1.5 min above 95 km/hr and then drop out of closed loop
and head for Lambda 1.1 or 16.17:1 A/F ratio.

This gives best fuel economy and of course max. NOX production.
The cat goes out completely and won't be relit until you get off
the freeway. So your inter city trip could easily be 5% closed 
loop and the rest lean and dirty.

Puts the "Magic" of Closed Loop and the CAT into some real world
perspective.

Regards

Phil

Injec Racing



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct 13 01:59:37 1999
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Message-ID: <3803821B.81C97226@injec.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 04:46:51 +1000
From: Phil Lamovie <phil@injec.com>
Organization: Injec Racing Developments
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 [en] (WinNT; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: engine idling at a high RPM
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Hi John et al,

> An engine idling at a high RPM because it was tuned at sea level 
> but tested at 5000' ASL would be sent to the shop where the 
> engine would be adjusted to pass the tests at that altitude.

An engine that was idling at more than 1% above the factory
specification has one of the following problems.

1. Air leak inlet manifold
2. Stuck idle speed control device.
3. Dead ECU output to ISC
4. Idle air bleed open so far ISC closed fully can't compensate
5. ECU confused about idle set point or rpm reading error
6. Faulty water temp reading high (ECU mode overtemp)

It's very hard to achieve closed loop fuel control at idle if you
don't pre light the cat.

> The tests are done at idle while the O2 sensor is in closed 
> loop mode. A rich mixture at Full Torque RPM is never tested 
> for and most...


The certification test are conducted using chassis dynos with
inertia correction and continuos gas sampling with "bagging"
and post test analysis on a second by second and total mass
pollutants per vehicle mass per distance driven.

The car is first "soaked" at 24 deg C for 24 hours and then
positioned on the dyno. A techie drives the vehicle trying to 
keep a dot on a monitor between two snaky lines which are
a speed demand. An error of 1.5% in speed is an abort test 
and resoak. (big career no-no)

Total driving time for both city and highway test are 54
minutes for the "New York" test. This simulates 27 minutes of
really ugly stop start traffic with brief burst up to 92 km/hr.
Some of the braking requires two feet on the pedal ! Full throttle is
used for about 1/3 of lower powered vehicles and at some stages the
autos kick down a gear or two.

As it is speed dependent big engine light cars do quite well until
the weight is factored in for grams/kg/km results.

The Highway cycle is not a pollution issue it is for economy
comparisons.

The 92 km/hr is the break point for "lean cruise". Most OEM's
choose 1.5 min above 95 km/hr and then drop out of closed loop
and head for Lambda 1.1 or 16.17:1 A/F ratio.

This gives best fuel economy and of course max. NOX production.
The cat goes out completely and won't be relit until you get off
the freeway. So your inter city trip could easily be 5% closed 
loop and the rest lean and dirty.

Puts the "Magic" of Closed Loop and the CAT into some real world
perspective.

Regards

Phil

Injec Racing



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct 13 02:30:11 1999
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Organization: Injec Racing Developments
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Hi Laura & Neil,

> Surely engine vacuum is relative to the ambient atmospheric 
> pressure. And as the MAP sensor is vented to atmosphere it will 
> have a fair degree of self correction for altitude.

Lets set the record absolutely. Absolute means what it says.

It is a barometer in every sense. It has an integral nitrogen
bubble as its reference and it's output is set to read  101.3 kPa
as the P of STP. It is not a differential sensor. 

Thus it is ALWAYS reading the manifold pressure relative
to ABSOLUTE pressure.

Air flow meters are major profit centres for auto manufacturers.
Some times they make more profit on the AFM replacement than the
original car sale.

Engine vacuum is controlled by the butterfly and thus is relative to
it's position and the load on the engine.

Phil 

Injec Racing

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct 13 03:24:14 1999
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Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 09:02:02 +0200
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: marine engine FI
References: <199910121900.PAA19018@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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>> At 05:00 11/10/99 -0400, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:
>> >Or - altitude could be faked out by reading the MAP while the engine is
>> >stopped.  Then you could account for it.  Of course this assumes that the 
>> >car is stopped every once in awhile (probbaly a reasonable thing).  I know 
>> >for a fact that some outboard marine engine controllers do this.
>
>Marine FI can probably get away with this, unless you run your boat
>down (or up) the side of a mountain with the engine running.
>"Over the falls," perhaps :-) ?
>
>> Outboard engines are FI???? Wow!! Things have changed in the past 5 years.
>> Why would they do this? Manufacturers are still putting ECUs in the engine
>> bay of cars. This is a pretty nasty place for electronics. I can see the
>> reason for putting FI in cars as it improves fuel ecconomy and power along
>> with controling the fuel so that it doesn't clog the CAT. But why on a
>> small outboard engine?

There have been fuel injected outboard engines for a long time. However, EFI  
2-strokes have been available only in the high power segment, starting  
around 200hp, and primarily from Mercury.

>>Surely you would want to keep the thing as simple as
>> possible using NO electronics as Sea water isn't electronics freindly by
>> any means.

It is difficult to get enough low and midrange power out of a highly tuned  
2-stroke engine using carbs. With EFI that problem decreases significantly.  
Remember that a boat needs good power at low revs to get on plane, and lots  
of power at high revs to be fast...

>The technology employed to fix this is DFI; injecting fuel directly
>into the cylinder, after the piston has risen enough to close the
>exhaust port.

As I recall, this is not really true; at high RPMs injection takes place  
before the exhaust port closes. Thus, at wide open throttle, the efficieny of  
DFI outboards gets close to the efficieny of manifold injected or carbed  
outboards. Note that two-stroke outboards are pretty efficient in their tuned  
RPM range. A problem that limits fuel efficiency of DFIs more than older  
outboards, IMHO, is that the limited cooling of the pistons forces DFIs to  
run rather rich.

>Mercury uses a system they licensed from Orbital (of
>Australia), OMC bought a company named Ficht (of Germany), and Yamaha
>has developed their own. As I recall, Ficht uses a special injector
>that develops about 450psi,

More like 200, IIRC. Also, Ficht's solenoid driven injector is not very  
precise; the pressure varies a lot.

>Orbital uses ~90psi mixed with a blast of
>compressed air,

Note that compressed air contains far more energy than pressurized fuel,  
which means that Orbital gets by with a far lower pressure. Thus, they avoid  
a few of the drawbacks of DFI.

>and Yamaha uses ~700psi.

Yamaha's new offerings are interesting, because they designed a completely  
new engine for the DFI system, rather than retrofitting it on an existing  
construction.

>I haven't looked at Yamaha's web site; they may not have a writeup
>yet, as I don't think they've shipped yet.

There is a writeup floating around, but it says "Not for publication"...

>Curiously, while DFI reduces oil consumption, it doesn't really
>address the oil-emission question.

DFI as such sure does; reduced consumption leads to lower emmissions, after all.

Hower, due to technical problems, some current DFIs, and particularly  
Mercury's, tend to use surprising quantities of oil.

>Apparently EPA agrees this is not a
>major pollution issue at this time. Manufactures are quick to tout the
>reduced fuel consumption of DFI, and many satisfied customers agree
>it's real.

And quite a few customers are on their second, third or fourth power head on  
warranty... OMC's Ficht has been worse off than Mercury, in this respect.  
(Mercury found unexpected problems and quietly pulled back their first  
generation of DFI's, and came back with an improved design and a new name.  
OMC on the other hand, being somewhat financially challenged, let their  
customers do the testing for them, to the misfortune of a whole lot of  
people. OMC also had an Orbital license, and built but never sold an engine  
almost identical to Mercury's original DFI, by the way)

Regards,
John Hornkvist

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct 13 12:31:39 1999
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From: "Rob Maxon" <rmaxon@txdirect.net>
To: <JECFL98@aol.com>
Cc: <DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Chrysler IC's in ECU
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 11:29:24 -0500
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>I have a 85 Chrysler K-car,  I looking for information on the IC's that are
>in the ECU

>   The IC's are  :  Motorola  SC88352CP           CPU (= 6803u4)
                         Motorola  SC87313CP            Port Expander ?
                              ??       +B8432                   RAM ? (=is
probably Z22 see below)
                              ??       4289473                 driver IC's
(=is probably Z51 see below)

If its got a sticker covering a window, its a 2764A eprom. Some 1985's had
(2) 28 pin 2764A eproms at Z51 and Z22, while others had one 28 pin 2764A
eprom at Z51, and one 24 pin (I think) rom chip that I am not sure about at
Z22. These are the 2 chips at the opposite end of the board from the
connectors. They are labeled Z51 and Z22 on the board, I think..
Rob
86 GLHS #048

>Any info about mid 80's chrysler ECU internal workings will be helpfull.  I
>see alot about Ford and GM, but nothing yet on Chrysler.

             >Please respond to     JECFL98@aol.com









From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct 13 12:47:35 1999
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Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 12:47:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@snurgle.org>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #577
In-Reply-To: <199910130900.FAA30717@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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On Wed, 13 Oct 1999, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:

> My friend has an RX-7 (early '90s pretty much standard equipped I
> believe) which is running fairly rich. I haven't looked at
> it yet but I'm going to help him troubleshoot it later this week.  Does
> mazada use a similar system to GM?  Im thinking it's pretty different ..

I don't know too much about the GM motors, but I can say a (very) little
bit about the Mazda...

The Turbo II ECU is pretty much a modern EFI controller.  There is an
oxygen sensor, which is used at low rpm and part throttle.  At higher
speeds or full throttle, the ECU switches over to fuel maps.  The ECU also
controls the wastegate via (I believe) vacuum activation in order to
regulate boost.  The ECU has fuel maps up to very high boost levels, but
does not use most of them as there is a fuel cut at around 8 psi of boost.

The rotariness of the motor doesn't really affect the ECU very much.

If the engine is running rich only at idle, there are a number of simple
adjustments to correct that.  If the engine is running rich at full
throttle, it's probably supposed to - the turbo models do run fairly rich
in order to prevent knock.  The rich running at other conditions is very
possibly a bad O2 sensor, or it could be something else.  but it probably
isn't the ECU failing as they are quite sturdy.

How do you know the engine is running rich?  It could be, for example, a
plugged catalytic converter, which can cause similar symptoms...


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct 13 13:54:39 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #576
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At 15:00 12/10/99 -0400, you wrote:
>>FWIW the rover mini system is a MEMS system... >what ever that means.
>
>"Modular Engine Management System".
>In principle the same ECU is fitted to every post-Lucas era 'MEMS'
>controlled Rover engined vehicle model (Honda engined versions use Jap
>electronics); that includes Mini, 200, 400, 600(turbo only) 800 and MGF.
>There obviously need to be variations due to engine spec - capacity, TBI or
>multi-point inj., ignition type - distributor or distributorless, turbo or
>nat-asp., etc. This is where the 'Modular' bit comes in; the ECU is
>fundamentally based on the same internals with various different hardware
>configurations and programs to accomodate the different sensors and
>actuators required for each individual application.
>You will come across a few different 'version' designators; eg. MEMS1.3,
>MEMS1.6, MEMS1.9 which   roughly segregate the applications.
>All MEMS systems use as a minimum the following sensors:

>Additional sensors , depending on application, include:
>Knock

What does the knock sensor do? What does it mean if I don't have one

>Fuel rail temperature

Why?

>All MEMS systems control ignition, either single coil or distributorless.
>All systems use a stepper motor controlled throttle stop for idle speed
>control.

Apart from the Mpi (97 on) minis which have a bypass valve which bleeds are
from the filter casing into the manifold.

>Hope this is of interest.

It is, thanks,

Ade

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct 13 15:36:01 1999
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From: Stuart Hastings <stuart@hal.com>
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Subject: Re: marine engine FI
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> >Mercury uses a system they licensed from Orbital (of
> >Australia), OMC bought a company named Ficht (of Germany), and Yamaha
> >has developed their own. As I recall, Ficht uses a special injector
> >that develops about 450psi,
> 
> More like 200, IIRC. Also, Ficht's solenoid driven injector is not very  
> precise; the pressure varies a lot.

I suppose there is no way to really know without measuring it, and
this would be difficult. One imagines a small, closed chamber, filled
with an incompressible liquid, and a Ficht injector screwed in one
end. Perhaps you could repeatedly fire the injector until the pressure
stopped rising...

In any case, OMC has claimed "exceeding 500 psi" for their injectors
(http://www.omc-online.com/pressreleases/pressreleases/pr488.htm).
Yes, it's probably a meaningless figure.

> >Orbital uses ~90psi mixed with a blast of
> >compressed air,
> 
> Note that compressed air contains far more energy than pressurized fuel,  
> which means that Orbital gets by with a far lower pressure. Thus, they avoid  
> a few of the drawbacks of DFI.

Speaking as a potential customer, the extra belt and air compressor
used on the Orbital design look like additional parts to break. The
Ficht design has none of these parts.

The other drawback to the Ficht injector (beyond the imprecision you
mention) is its energy requirements. OMC redesigned and enlarged their
alternators to supply 24V in order to drive those injectors (they'll
start the engine on 12V). Orbital/Mercury and Yamaha get their energy
via a belt, without the electrical losses.

> >Curiously, while DFI reduces oil consumption, it doesn't really
> >address the oil-emission question.
> 
> DFI as such sure does; reduced consumption leads to lower emmissions, after all.
> 
> Hower, due to technical problems, some current DFIs, and particularly  
> Mercury's, tend to use surprising quantities of oil.

My point was that DFI two-stroke engines are still blowing oil out the
exhaust. If the emissions have dropped by half, that's great, but it's
still disconcerting.

> >Apparently EPA agrees this is not a
> >major pollution issue at this time.

More specifically, EPA is interested only in *air* pollution from
marine engines. When they mandated oxygenated fuel, they indirectly
required California fuel to incorporate MTBE, and nobody realized it
would contaminate the *water*. Hello, EPA, most marine engines exhaust
*underwater*, even if most of their smog immediately bubbles to the
surface!

I'll guess that EPA isn't yet concerned about oil emissions because
much of the oil stays in (or on the surface of) the *water*.

> And quite a few customers are on their second, third or fourth power head on  
> warranty... OMC's Ficht has been worse off than Mercury, in this
> respect.

OMC claims to have fixed their problems, and I haven't heard of any
Ficht owners out of warranty yet.

> (Mercury found unexpected problems and quietly pulled back their first  
> generation of DFI's, and came back with an improved design and a new name.  
> OMC on the other hand, being somewhat financially challenged, let their  
> customers do the testing for them, to the misfortune of a whole lot of  
> people. OMC also had an Orbital license, and built but never sold an engine  
> almost identical to Mercury's original DFI, by the way)

OMC has said as much on their website in the past. They also listed a
bunch of problems they had with it, all problems that were adequately
solved by Mercury. This leads me to believe they prefer Ficht because
they were able to buy the technology outright and avoid paying
royalties.

stuart hastings

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct 13 17:59:29 1999
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #576
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  Thanks Stuart for a interesting summary.
Yamahas new (High pressure direct injection) HPDI 200hp is better than the 
75% reduction in certain emissions the Environmental protection agency
requires by 2006.
It has a new engine block with longer stroke and 76-degree v 6.
They want to make the engine slimmer to not get into trubbles with the 
boat manufacturers.
To reduce the fuel to a fine mist the system uses high pressure, 
700psi , ficht uses (OMC) 300-400psi , DFI (Merc) 80 psi.
The pressure is developed through a very small high speed pump.
Two stainless steel fuel rails for each cyl row.
The Injectors looks very simular to car efi injectors.......
They say that the high pressure is a part of the whole picture, without 
the high pressure they could not use internal opening style injectors, the
pressure keeps them closed when they need to be closed.
Internal opening style injectors that dont protrude into the combustion
chamber are,unique to the HPDI system. They clame that the most notable
advantage is that they dont impede or disrupt the fuel flume.
Like diesel style injectors vs. efi injectors.
Yamaha uses the common sensors , crank position sensor.TPS,KNOK,
rpm sensor, water temp, air temp,MAP,O2.....o2.............?(patented 02
sensors )
All manufacturers of theese dfi outboard engines has had some bugs
that develop.....
A lake in US has abandoned all engines that are not to the latest
eviromental standards......If you want to take your boat with your old
twostroke engine  out , you have to change your engine to a new one
first.
Mercury delivers a high perf 200 dfi that took 2 place at paris ruoen 24
hour (river) race.The ability to run lean  burn  conditions is great for
reliability as  I see it.

I have 2  2.5efi high performance engines that I am reparing, line boring
new crank, one piston 70grams to heavy +++
They have analog efi with old d-jetronic peek and hold injectors.(As
standard)
The new 2.5 efis has digital boxes ,Motorolabased.
  Any who has any info on them?(GM?)
I hope to put another efi system om my engines and run LPG.......
Liquid injecting.
Any input is appreciated.
To afford to use it.......
Espen Hilde


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct 13 18:00:41 1999
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  Thanks Stuart for a interesting summary.
Yamahas new (High pressure direct injection) HPDI 200hp is better than the 
75% reduction in certain emissions the Environmental protection agency
requires by 2006.
It has a new engine block with longer stroke and 76-degree v 6.
They want to make the engine slimmer to not get into trubbles with the 
boat manufacturers.
To reduce the fuel to a fine mist the system uses high pressure, 
700psi , ficht uses (OMC) 300-400psi , DFI (Merc) 80 psi.
The pressure is developed through a very small high speed pump.
Two stainless steel fuel rails for each cyl row.
The Injectors looks very simular to car efi injectors.......
They say that the high pressure is a part of the whole picture, without 
the high pressure they could not use internal opening style injectors, the
pressure keeps them closed when they need to be closed.
Internal opening style injectors that dont protrude into the combustion
chamber are,unique to the HPDI system. They clame that the most notable
advantage is that they dont impede or disrupt the fuel flume.
Like diesel style injectors vs. efi injectors.
Yamaha uses the common sensors , crank position sensor.TPS,KNOK,
rpm sensor, water temp, air temp,MAP,O2.....o2.............?(patented 02
sensors )
All manufacturers of theese dfi outboard engines has had some bugs
that develop.....
A lake in US has abandoned all engines that are not to the latest
eviromental standards......If you want to take your boat with your old
twostroke engine  out , you have to change your engine to a new one
first.
Mercury delivers a high perf 200 dfi that took 2 place at paris ruoen 24
hour (river) race.The ability to run lean  burn  conditions is great for
reliability as  I see it.

I have 2  2.5efi high performance engines that I am reparing, line boring
new crank, one piston 70grams to heavy +++
They have analog efi with old d-jetronic peek and hold injectors.(As
standard)
The new 2.5 efis has digital boxes ,Motorolabased.
  Any who has any info on them?(GM?)
I hope to put another efi system om my engines and run LPG.......
Liquid injecting.
Any input is appreciated.
To afford to use it.......
Espen Hilde


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct 13 18:36:45 1999
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #576
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 23:56:14 +0200
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  Thanks Stuart for a interesting summary.
Yamahas new (High pressure direct injection) HPDI 200hp is better than the 
75% reduction in certain emissions the Environmental protection agency
requires by 2006.
It has a new engine block with longer stroke and 76-degree v 6.
They want to make the engine slimmer to not get into trubbles with the 
boat manufacturers.
To reduce the fuel to a fine mist the system uses high pressure, 
700psi , ficht uses (OMC) 300-400psi , DFI (Merc) 80 psi.
The pressure is developed through a very small high speed pump.
Two stainless steel fuel rails for each cyl row.
The Injectors looks very simular to car efi injectors.......
They say that the high pressure is a part of the whole picture, without 
the high pressure they could not use internal opening style injectors, the
pressure keeps them closed when they need to be closed.
Internal opening style injectors that dont protrude into the combustion
chamber are,unique to the HPDI system. They clame that the most notable
advantage is that they dont impede or disrupt the fuel flume.
Like diesel style injectors vs. efi injectors.
Yamaha uses the common sensors , crank position sensor.TPS,KNOK,
rpm sensor, water temp, air temp,MAP,O2.....o2.............?(patented 02
sensors )
All manufacturers of theese dfi outboard engines has had some bugs
that develop.....
A lake in US has abandoned all engines that are not to the latest
eviromental standards......If you want to take your boat with your old
twostroke engine  out , you have to change your engine to a new one
first.
Mercury delivers a high perf 200 dfi that took 2 place at paris ruoen 24
hour (river) race.The ability to run lean  burn  conditions is great for
reliability as  I see it.

I have 2  2.5efi high performance engines that I am reparing, line boring
new crank, one piston 70grams to heavy +++
They have analog efi with old d-jetronic peek and hold injectors.(As
standard)
The new 2.5 efis has digital boxes ,Motorolabased.
  Any who has any info on them?(GM?)
I hope to put another efi system om my engines and run LPG.......
Liquid injecting.
Any input is appreciated.
To afford to use it.......
Espen Hilde


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct 13 18:47:38 1999
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #576
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 23:56:14 +0200
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  Thanks Stuart for a interesting summary.
Yamahas new (High pressure direct injection) HPDI 200hp is better than the 
75% reduction in certain emissions the Environmental protection agency
requires by 2006.
It has a new engine block with longer stroke and 76-degree v 6.
They want to make the engine slimmer to not get into trubbles with the 
boat manufacturers.
To reduce the fuel to a fine mist the system uses high pressure, 
700psi , ficht uses (OMC) 300-400psi , DFI (Merc) 80 psi.
The pressure is developed through a very small high speed pump.
Two stainless steel fuel rails for each cyl row.
The Injectors looks very simular to car efi injectors.......
They say that the high pressure is a part of the whole picture, without 
the high pressure they could not use internal opening style injectors, the
pressure keeps them closed when they need to be closed.
Internal opening style injectors that dont protrude into the combustion
chamber are,unique to the HPDI system. They clame that the most notable
advantage is that they dont impede or disrupt the fuel flume.
Like diesel style injectors vs. efi injectors.
Yamaha uses the common sensors , crank position sensor.TPS,KNOK,
rpm sensor, water temp, air temp,MAP,O2.....o2.............?(patented 02
sensors )
All manufacturers of theese dfi outboard engines has had some bugs
that develop.....
A lake in US has abandoned all engines that are not to the latest
eviromental standards......If you want to take your boat with your old
twostroke engine  out , you have to change your engine to a new one
first.
Mercury delivers a high perf 200 dfi that took 2 place at paris ruoen 24
hour (river) race.The ability to run lean  burn  conditions is great for
reliability as  I see it.

I have 2  2.5efi high performance engines that I am reparing, line boring
new crank, one piston 70grams to heavy +++
They have analog efi with old d-jetronic peek and hold injectors.(As
standard)
The new 2.5 efis has digital boxes ,Motorolabased.
  Any who has any info on them?(GM?)
I hope to put another efi system om my engines and run LPG.......
Liquid injecting.
Any input is appreciated.
To afford to use it.......
Espen Hilde


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct 14 09:37:50 1999
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #579
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You Espen Hilde wrote:
> [About Yamaha HPDI]
> To reduce the fuel to a fine mist the system uses high pressure,
> 700psi , ficht uses (OMC) 300-400psi , DFI (Merc) 80 psi.

Note that you cannot directly compare Mercury's 80 psi with Yamaha's 700,  
since Mercury uses direct air/fuel injection, and compressed gas contains  
much more energy than a pressurized liquid. Pressure is just a marketing  
figure. It atomization that is interesting.

Has anyone seen atomization figures for HPDI?

> The pressure is developed through a very small high speed pump.

A large low pressure fuel pump pushes fuel into a liquid/gas separator to  
get rid of any bubbles, and then into the high pressure pump.

> Yamaha uses the common sensors , crank position sensor.TPS,KNOK,
> rpm sensor, water temp, air temp,MAP,O2.....o2.............?(patented 02
> sensors )

The fact that Yamaha can operate in a real closed loop mode was what struck  
me when I first read the specs. Yamaha already does this in the OX66 EFI  
system which is used on their 76 degree 3.1 litre engines, by the way.

The reason for going with a 76 degree engine is that it allows them to stay  
within the form factor of the 90 degree engines despite the new hardware.

> All manufacturers of theese dfi outboard engines has had some bugs
> that develop.....

To say it nicely. :)

> Mercury delivers a high perf 200 dfi that took 2 place at paris ruoen 24
> hour (river) race.The ability to run lean  burn  conditions is great for
> reliability as  I see it.

Do they really deliver it? Given that it has a lower unit that can't  
reverse, it wouldn't make much sense for anything but racing. And as a racer  
you get more power per cubic inch from an XR2, 2.5EFI or even a 300 ProMax.

> I have 2  2.5efi high performance engines that I am reparing, line boring

Are they any fun? I have very modified Yamaha 200 that will get an EFI  
system if it is still running when I can aford one (eg MADEFI) or find time  
to build something... Performance below 4000 RPM is not exactly stunning when  
using carbs.

> new crank, one piston 70grams to heavy +++

70 grams??? That's a lot of extra weight...

> They have analog efi with old d-jetronic peek and hold injectors.(As
> standard)

Is this the 260hp version?

> The new 2.5 efis has digital boxes ,Motorolabased.

The 280hp machines?

Regards,
John Hornkvist

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct 14 09:37:51 1999
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Subject: Re: marine engine FI
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Stuart Hastings <stuart@hal.com> wrote:
> > More like 200, IIRC. Also, Ficht's solenoid driven injector is not very  
> > precise; the pressure varies a lot.
>
> I suppose there is no way to really know without measuring it, and
> this would be difficult. One imagines a small, closed chamber, filled
> with an incompressible liquid, and a Ficht injector screwed in one
> end. Perhaps you could repeatedly fire the injector until the pressure
> stopped rising...

That would only tell you the maximum pressure, not the sustained pressure  
through a burst. Pressure in itself is NOT a good thing in a gasoline DFI,  
though. OMC and Yamaha use the pressure to get atomization. If they could get  
that atomization with lower pressure, they would.

The penetration rate (velocity of fuel entering the cylinder) is
too high when the pressure is raised enough to provide reasonable
atomisation. This is coped with by putting spray deflectors and
bowls in the piston and cumbustion chamber, but these are all
band-aids trying to slow the spray down and contain it near the
spark plug to achieve stratified charge conditions (i.e. rich near
the plug and lean elsewhere).

Orbital does not have this problem, since it uses compressed air to shear  
the droplets.

> > Note that compressed air contains far more energy than pressurized
> > fuel, which means that Orbital gets by with a far lower pressure.
> > Thus, they avoid a few of the drawbacks of DFI.
>
> Speaking as a potential customer, the extra belt and air compressor
> used on the Orbital design look like additional parts to break.

Of course. But a belt driven air compressor is not exactly rocket science...

> The Ficht design has none of these parts.

The Ficht has a whole lot of other parts to break. (And it seems to be doing  
so with gusto...:))

> My point was that DFI two-stroke engines are still blowing oil out the
> exhaust. If the emissions have dropped by half, that's great, but it's
> still disconcerting.

True. They could have moved the precompression out of the crank case, using  
a conventional "wet" crank case, and a screw compressor instead. That would  
have given more efficient scavenging, and gotten rid of all oil in emissions.  
In addition, they would probably be able to get a fair bit more power out of  
the engines since the problem of piston overheating would not force them to  
run rich at WOT. At least one of the car manufacturers that worked on an  
Orbital engine did this.

> More specifically, EPA is interested only in *air* pollution from
> marine engines. When they mandated oxygenated fuel, they indirectly
> required California fuel to incorporate MTBE, and nobody realized it
> would contaminate the *water*.

This may be true. I read somewhere that it is doubtful that a significant  
amount unburnt gasoline passes into the environment because of the high  
temperature of the exhaust gases. Since I'm not American, I won't claim to  
know how the EPA thinks or works, though.

> Hello, EPA, most marine engines exhaust
> *underwater*, even if most of their smog immediately bubbles to the
> surface!

That can easily be fixed with a holesaw, if you're worried. :)

> I'll guess that EPA isn't yet concerned about oil emissions because
> much of the oil stays in (or on the surface of) the *water*.

That is possible. They may also be taking on one problem at a time.

> OMC claims to have fixed their problems, and I haven't heard of any
> Ficht owners out of warranty yet.

Neither have I. Even if you are under warranty, it is quite frustrating to  
be left drifting on the ocean, though. That's one reason why it is a problem  
for OMC; they get a bad reputation out of the failures, and they have to pay  
for the repairs...

As far as I know, its the 60 degree V6 engines that have caused almost all  
of the trouble, particularly the 175. The 90 degree V6 and V4 engines seem to  
do OK.

An OMC rep told me that in order for your Ficht to survive, you should block  
the oil return line the first time you start it, as well any time it hasn't  
been running for a while. Otherwise there is a significant risk of hurting  
the rings and sleeves during startup due to oil starvation. Further, it is a  
good idea to give it some extra oil during the first few seconds it runs. The  
OMC rep suggested spraying fogging oil into the intake, or running a rich  
pre mix.

Since many retailers (and hence customers) don't know about the startup  
procedure, many Orbital engines are severely damaged the first time they are  
started...

The rep also claimed that OMC is having a lot of trouble getting mechanics  
to diagnose the (old fashioned) mechanical problems people are having with  
the engines. As soon as the built in diagnostic system can't tell what's  
wrong, mechanics tend to give up.

The second generation Ficht system should take care of the problems, and OMC  
are upgrading the old engines, starting with the 98's, IIRC. The 97's have  
been less troubling, but there is or will be a kit out for them too.

It seems that OMC are pushing Ficht onto new engines a lot faster than  
Mercury is pushing Orbital. It could be because Ficht is easier to retrofit  
than Orbital, but I suspect that it is because OMC are less scrupulous about  
testing than Mercury.

> OMC has said as much on their website in the past.

OK, I got the info from an Orbital engineer and an OMC rep.

> They also listed a
> bunch of problems they had with it, all problems that were adequately
> solved by Mercury. This leads me to believe they prefer Ficht because
> they were able to buy the technology outright and avoid paying
> royalties.

Another reason may be that they wanted a technology of their own, rather  
than being an "Orbital also ran"... Yet another may be that by the time OMC  
canceled their Orbital engine, it was clear that Orbital would not be a hit  
in the automotive world. Thus, economies of scale didn't look significanlty  
better for Orbital than for a home brewed system.

Orbital is working hard on the (four stroke) automotive market these days,  
with the selling point that their DFI system runs unthrottled, which makes  
the engine more efficient at the low power levels where cars spend most of  
their time.

Regards,
John Hornkvist


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct 14 12:34:11 1999
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct 14 16:57:51 1999
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	(DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu)
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> > Speaking as a potential customer, the extra belt and air compressor
> > used on the Orbital design look like additional parts to break.
> 
> Of course. But a belt driven air compressor is not exactly rocket science...
> 
> > The Ficht design has none of these parts.
> 
> The Ficht has a whole lot of other parts to break. (And it seems to be doing  
> so with gusto...:))

Hmmm. Oddball injectors, computer to drive them, special alternator,
and an oil injector in the crankcase... I guess you have better
sources than I do, but I had understood that most (catastrophic) Ficht
failures were related to internal engine parts, like pistons, rings,
and cylinders. Stuff that was supposed to be well-debugged by now :-) .

...
> True. They could have moved the precompression out of the crank case, using  
> a conventional "wet" crank case, and a screw compressor instead. That would  
> have given more efficient scavenging, and gotten rid of all oil in emissions.  
...

I doubt the marine engine manufacturers would fit a compressor unless
required by smog regulations. It adds weight, complexity, and cost.
But I personally would consider owning such an engine.

> > More specifically, EPA is interested only in *air* pollution from
> > marine engines. When they mandated oxygenated fuel, they indirectly
> > required California fuel to incorporate MTBE, and nobody realized it
> > would contaminate the *water*.
> 
> This may be true. I read somewhere that it is doubtful that a significant  
> amount unburnt gasoline passes into the environment because of the high  
> temperature of the exhaust gases.

It has been definitively shown here in California that most of the
MTBE found in surface water (lakes, reservoirs) came from non-DFI
two-cycle engines.

Here in the Silicon Valley, the local water authority permits
powerboats on three of our ten drinking water reservoirs. One of these
is open to Personal Water Craft (e.g. Jetskis(tm)) at the beginning of
every season, and promptly closed to them after the MTBE concentration
rises above a certain threshold. PWC dealers in Northern California
have mostly been driven out of business. My four-cycle boat is still
permitted on all three reservoirs.

When DFI manufacturers claim 25-30% improvements in fuel economy,
they're talking about raw fuel that was formerly blown out the
exhaust. This is a settled issue.

> Since I'm not American, I won't claim to know how the EPA thinks or
> works, though.

The U.S. E.P.A. is a source of wonderment for us Americans, too :-) .

> > Hello, EPA, most marine engines exhaust
> > *underwater*, even if most of their smog immediately bubbles to the
> > surface!
> 
> That can easily be fixed with a holesaw, if you're worried. :)

I'm not worried, because I insisted on four-cycle power when I bought
my boat. I'm not a "greenie," but spitting oil (and/or gasoline) into
the water dismays me, in spite of all genuine advantages of two-stroke
engines on a boat.

Most marine engines (in the U.S.) exhaust underwater because it's
essentially required by the U.S. Coast Guard for basic
safety. Boat-engine exhaust is typically mixed with water shortly
after it leaves the engine. Most sterndrives (marinized car engines)
have many rubber parts in the exhaust just downstream of the water
port; if the water supply fails, the rubber parts promptly melt.

If nothing in the boat is hot enough to start a fire, there should be
fewer boat fires. Nobody was thinking about ecology when these rules
were established.

stuart hastings

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct 14 22:36:56 1999
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #580
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 04:33:53 +0200
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> > Mercury delivers a high perf 200 dfi that took 2 place at paris ruoen
24
> > hour (river) race.The ability to run lean  burn  conditions is great
for
> > reliability as  I see it.
> 
> Do they really deliver it? Given that it has a lower unit that can't  
> reverse, it wouldn't make much sense for anything but racing.
I think they used a standard gearcase, they didnt have to change the lower
unit during the race.They saved lots of time that way.
I havent sen any pictures or description of the lover unit they used.
 And as a racer  
> you get more power per cubic inch from an XR2, 2.5EFI or even a 300
ProMax.
> 
> > I have 2  2.5efi high performance engines that I am reparing, line
boring
> 
> Are they any fun? 
Just problems so far, but nice to look at with mahle forged pistons,
lots of ports .aluminium Nicasil treated sleeves. Big reed blocks.
and the v8 inspired trottle body.The loverunits are beauties, I have a
slightly modified Yamaha 225hp with nose cone that I have to fill with 
padding all the time, I want to weld it but maybe it will change because of
the heat.Maybe the new lowerunits from Yamaha with biger skeg and 
low water pickups has the same gear and internals as the one I have .  

I have very modified Yamaha 200 
What modifications have you done?

that will get an EFI  
> system if it is still running when I can aford one (eg MADEFI) or find
time 
I have looked at the mad efi myself, no I am hoping that 332 efi would
do the trick.
 
I would like to play with the ignition also...
Do you have any info on recalibrating the ignition system on the Yamaha 
engine?
> to build something... Performance below 4000 RPM is not exactly stunning
when  
> using carbs.
What hp does it make?
I read somewhere that the ox66 engine used GM corvette ecu.
 


> > They have analog efi with old d-jetronic peek and hold injectors.(As
> > standard)
> 
> Is this the 260hp version?
Yes.

> > The new 2.5 efis has digital boxes ,Motorolabased.
> 
> The 280hp machines?
Yes.
 
Espen Hilde

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct 14 22:38:05 1999
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #580
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 04:33:53 +0200
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> > Mercury delivers a high perf 200 dfi that took 2 place at paris ruoen
24
> > hour (river) race.The ability to run lean  burn  conditions is great
for
> > reliability as  I see it.
> 
> Do they really deliver it? Given that it has a lower unit that can't  
> reverse, it wouldn't make much sense for anything but racing.
I think they used a standard gearcase, they didnt have to change the lower
unit during the race.They saved lots of time that way.
I havent sen any pictures or description of the lover unit they used.
 And as a racer  
> you get more power per cubic inch from an XR2, 2.5EFI or even a 300
ProMax.
> 
> > I have 2  2.5efi high performance engines that I am reparing, line
boring
> 
> Are they any fun? 
Just problems so far, but nice to look at with mahle forged pistons,
lots of ports .aluminium Nicasil treated sleeves. Big reed blocks.
and the v8 inspired trottle body.The loverunits are beauties, I have a
slightly modified Yamaha 225hp with nose cone that I have to fill with 
padding all the time, I want to weld it but maybe it will change because of
the heat.Maybe the new lowerunits from Yamaha with biger skeg and 
low water pickups has the same gear and internals as the one I have .  

I have very modified Yamaha 200 
What modifications have you done?

that will get an EFI  
> system if it is still running when I can aford one (eg MADEFI) or find
time 
I have looked at the mad efi myself, no I am hoping that 332 efi would
do the trick.
 
I would like to play with the ignition also...
Do you have any info on recalibrating the ignition system on the Yamaha 
engine?
> to build something... Performance below 4000 RPM is not exactly stunning
when  
> using carbs.
What hp does it make?
I read somewhere that the ox66 engine used GM corvette ecu.
 


> > They have analog efi with old d-jetronic peek and hold injectors.(As
> > standard)
> 
> Is this the 260hp version?
Yes.

> > The new 2.5 efis has digital boxes ,Motorolabased.
> 
> The 280hp machines?
Yes.
 
Espen Hilde

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct 15 03:53:46 1999
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To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: MEMS
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 08:50:25 +0100
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Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 18:41:28 +0100
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #576

At 15:00 12/10/99 -0400, you wrote:
>>All MEMS systems use as a minimum the following sensors:

>>Additional sensors , depending on application, include:
>>Knock

>What does the knock sensor do? What does it mean if I don't have one

Detects the onset of knocking and dynamically reduces the ignition
timing advance to minimise it. Not all the systems implement knock,
If you chose to use a system that does, but don't want to use it (or
don't have anywhere to mount it) the best would be to have the sensor
connected so that it doesn't create a sensor detection fault; the
system will never see a knock signal, so will perform normally.

>>Fuel rail temperature

>Why?

I think it's to do with hot start strategy when there could be the
possibility of fuel vapourisation in the fuel rail. I've only seen this
fitted on MPi applications, where the sensor is mounted on a boss, thermally
attached to the fuel rail.

>>All MEMS systems control ignition, either single coil or distributorless.
>>All systems use a stepper motor controlled throttle stop for idle speed
>>control.

>Apart from the Mpi (97 on) minis which have a bypass valve which bleeds are
>from the filter casing into the manifold.

I wasn't aware of that - I've only ever seen steppers.... we live and learn.

Rich



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct 15 10:21:32 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: marine engine FI
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Stuart Hastings wrote:
> > The Ficht has a whole lot of other parts to break. (And it seems to be
> > doing so with gusto...:))
>
> Hmmm. Oddball injectors, computer to drive them, special alternator,
> and an oil injector in the crankcase... I guess you have better
> sources than I do, but I had understood that most (catastrophic) Ficht
> failures were related to internal engine parts, like pistons, rings,
> and cylinders. Stuff that was supposed to be well-debugged by now :-) .

I don't think anything really breaks when the injectors stop working. After  
all, oil is passed another way. That's why you don't hear much about it, I  
guess.

>
> I doubt the marine engine manufacturers would fit a compressor unless
> required by smog regulations. It adds weight, complexity, and cost.
> But I personally would consider owning such an engine.

Well, in theory they could move to slip bearings and a conventional crank.  
That would save a good pile of dough...

> > This may be true. I read somewhere that it is doubtful that a significant
> > amount unburnt gasoline passes into the environment because of the high
> > temperature of the exhaust gases.
>
> It has been definitively shown here in California that most of the
> MTBE found in surface water (lakes, reservoirs) came from non-DFI
> two-cycle engines.

OK.

> Here in the Silicon Valley, the local water authority permits
> powerboats on three of our ten drinking water reservoirs. One of these
> is open to Personal Water Craft (e.g. Jetskis(tm)) at the beginning of
> every season, and promptly closed to them after the MTBE concentration
> rises above a certain threshold. PWC dealers in Northern California
> have mostly been driven out of business. My four-cycle boat is still
> permitted on all three reservoirs.

Well, having any boats on water reservoirs is asking for trouble, IMHO.

> When DFI manufacturers claim 25-30% improvements in fuel economy,
> they're talking about raw fuel that was formerly blown out the
> exhaust. This is a settled issue.

Yes. My point was that the high temperature of the exhaust gases would cause  
oxidation of the hydrocarbons in the exhaust stream once they leave the low  
oxygen athomosphere of the engine.

> > That can easily be fixed with a holesaw, if you're worried. :)
>
> I'm not worried, because I insisted on four-cycle power when I bought
> my boat. I'm not a "greenie," but spitting oil (and/or gasoline) into
> the water dismays me, in spite of all genuine advantages of two-stroke
> engines on a boat.

If there is a significant environmental problem with spitting fuel into the  
water, it should be avoided, of course. The problem with DFIs and two strokes  
is that there are none in the really high output segment. (Unless OMCs 250  
has been released.)

> Most marine engines (in the U.S.) exhaust underwater because it's
> essentially required by the U.S. Coast Guard for basic
> safety. Boat-engine exhaust is typically mixed with water shortly
> after it leaves the engine.

I know. Dry stacking changes the tuning characteristics of the pipe, since  
the exhaust gases have different acoustics, and more engergy, at the higher  
temperature.

> Most sterndrives (marinized car engines)
> have many rubber parts in the exhaust just downstream of the water
> port; if the water supply fails, the rubber parts promptly melt.

I have no experience with sterndrives; Swedish gas prices are about four  
times higher than American prices, so we try to keep boat sizes reasonable...  


> If nothing in the boat is hot enough to start a fire, there should be
> fewer boat fires. Nobody was thinking about ecology when these rules
> were established.

Of course. The situation is a bit different with an outboard, though, since  
it hangs a fair bit behind the boat. (I have about 40cm offset, for example.)

Regards,
John Hornkvist



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct 15 10:21:36 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: marine engine FI
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Espen Hilde wrote:
> > > I have 2  2.5efi high performance engines that I am reparing, line
> boring
> >
> > Are they any fun?
> Just problems so far,

I've heard that they require far too much rebuilding for a "standard" engine.

> but nice to look at with mahle forged pistons,
> lots of ports .aluminium Nicasil treated sleeves. Big reed blocks.
> and the v8 inspired trottle body. The loverunits are beauties, I have a
> slightly modified Yamaha 225hp with nose cone that I have to fill with
> padding all the time, I want to weld it but maybe it will change because of
> the heat.

What kind of filler do you use on the nose cone? (Mine is welded, and the  
paint is coming off, but the putty stays...)

What kind of boat do you run those beasts on? I have a Hydrolift CR22.

> Maybe the new lowerunits from Yamaha with biger skeg and
> low water pickups has the same gear and internals as the one I have .

I know someone who replaced the gears of a 150TRP gearhouse with the innards  
from a 225, or possibly 220.

> I have very modified Yamaha 200
> What modifications have you done?

Wayne Taylor heads and exhaust plate, HydroTec pipe (but that one is going  
to be replaced with a cut 225 pipe), ported front half, big intake and  
exhaust ports, shortened sleeves, cut pistons (forged from Wiseco), finger  
ports, dry stacked. I've also built a turboscope, but I've not had time to  
test and see if it makes a difference.

> that will get an EFI
> > system if it is still running when I can aford one (eg MADEFI) or find
> time
> I have looked at the mad efi myself, no I am hoping that 332 efi would
> do the trick.

If EFI 332 gets down to reasonable size;  an 8x8 inch four layer board +  
driver boards is rather ridiculous, IMHO. Something like the ECU6 or ECU7  
system would probably be good enough for an outboard, anyway.

> I would like to play with the ignition also...
> Do you have any info on recalibrating the ignition system on the Yamaha
> engine?

I don't, sadly. I know a Danish guy who may have the info, but I don't have  
his email address.

He has a lot of tuning info from Yamaha. You may consider contacting them to  
find out...

> > to build something... Performance below 4000 RPM is not exactly stunning
> when
> > using carbs.
> What hp does it make?

I don't really know. I had it tuned by a Swedish shop in Vasteras that have  
a DynaFlow, but they made a horrible mess of things. The porting they did was  
OK, but they made the heads totally wrong; the squish was going the wrong  
way, and the pistons kissed the heads. Then it gave 240hp from 6000 to 7000  
RPM. In the boat I never got it to rev over 6200. Due to the mess they made  
of it, the crank broke after about 20 hours. Needless to say, I stay away  
from them these days.

Now I have good heads, much larger ports and finger ports, and a modified  
exhaust system. 275-300 at 8000RPM is an educated guess. I don't wont to go  
much higher than 8000RPM, because that's how high Yamaha's own high output  
engine went. It used (or uses?) the same crank and bearings as the standard  
engines, but had longer rods and different pistons. (I don't think it used  
forged pistons, by the way.) The long rods make a huge difference I'm told. I  
think Hydrotec sells them, but I'm not sure. A bit too expensive for my  
taste, anyway.

> I read somewhere that the ox66 engine used GM corvette ecu.

Really? One would expect them to use Japanese components... That would be  
cool, though, because I bet there are lots of info on Corvett ECUs floating  
around.

Regards,
John Hornkvist

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct 15 17:46:20 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 14:44:16 -0700
From: Doug Dayson <djdayson@ix.netcom.com>
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Subject: Intro and SB Chev Recommendations...
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Hello all...my name is Doug Dayson...I live in the San Francisco Bay Area in
CA...I'm a musician/audio engineer/producer and software engineer by trade...

I'm currently researching converting my modified 71 Corvette Coupe to
EFI...mostly because I run around with a club of people with newer Vettes that are
injected and when we get into higher altitudes I can't compete w/o rejetting
(which is a hassle) so...

The Vette weighs 3200lbs with a half a tank and no driver...it has a "stock short
rod" 406ci/375hp small block chev with TFS Aluminum Heads...Edlebrock
Performer Manifold and modified Q-Jet carb...1 5/8" X 3" headers...hyd flat
tappet cam timing is 218 @ .050 with a 110 LSA and .485 lift...it currently
makes around 450 ft/lbs at 4000 rpm and 375 at 5000 rpm (all gross at the
crank)...BTW it's already been converted to HEI ignition...

It has a 89 700R4 four speed automatic trans with a 3.08 rear gear and 25.5"
diameter X 8.5" wide tires...it's best at Searspoint Dragstrip (330 ft) has
been a 12.87 at 112 on street tires (shifted at 5500 rpm)...amazing enough it
does on average 19 mpg at cruise with the carb "IF" I keep my foot out of
it (thanks to the OD and Lock-up Torque Converter)...a pretty good all around
street motor...idles good...gets decent
mileage...goes good etc...I guess I'm looking mostly to keep the same power
curve (or better) and enjoy the increased driveability and economy that EFI
can produce!

Also of note...it's now smog exempt...though I'd imagine that any good EFI
setup will improve tailpipe emissions which is good!

And...hoping to do this swap with the engine in the car...so no engine dyno
time...could do chassis dyno though if needed...expensive though!

After all...as a pricing guideline..for $3700 you can get a "brand new"
complete GM LT-4  350ci Crate motor (330 Hp Net) with GM EFI...

So...with the above in mind (including my status as a EFI
Newbie)...recommendations (for hopefully) under $2K complete on a conversion concept?

1) TBI or MPI...one issue is my fuel tank return line enters the tank up high
(above the normal fuel level...hoping to not replumb the tank)...would this be
a problem with MPI's higher fuel pressures vs TBI's lower pressures?

2) Agreed...the Accel Super Ram would make the best performance...BUT...too
expensive...might not fit under hood...would probably kill the trans in short
order (due to the extra torque)...best pricing seems to be Summit or
Jegs...approx $1500 for manifold...runners...and TB...still need $700 + for GM
sensors and ECM...chip and harness...fuel pump etc...$2200+ for parts...$3000
from Accel with Accel DFI ECM...and the GM ECM gives Altitude Sensing...Spark
Control...Torque Converter Control...and Limp Home Mode all standard...these
are all extra cost "options" as I understand it for Accel's DFI......what do
you think...is there a better way?

2a) Accel DFI vs GM ECM with proper WOT calibration?

2c) Anyone using the FP Performance ECM with the wide band O2 sensor...for
closed loop at all times including WOT?

3) How about the Electromotive kits?

4) How about the Howell TBI kits with the Holley TB and GM ECM?

5) I don't think that a modified TPI (big manifold...big TB...big runners and ported
plenum) would be able to support a 406ci to 5500 rpm...is this correct?

5a) I also imagine that a modified as above TPI would cost as much as a Super
Ram wouldn't it...and not be as effective?

6) Looking through the archives showed that most weren't happy with the Holley
TBI...or Howell TBI...anybody have success with either of these systems as the
pricing is right?

7) How about the single plane carb manifolds plumbed for MPI from
Holley...Accel...Arizona Speed and Marine etc...anyone having success with these
on the street?

7a) I understand that in a wet/flow manifold design the single plane would lose
torque in the lower rpm ranges (under 4000 rpm or so vs a dual plane)...and
that my conservative cam
timing wouldn't allow the higher rpm needed to really use a single plane
manifold...is this still the case in a converted to MPI single plane manifold
(now dry/flow)...seems like the air velocity and cylinder filling would remain
constant with or without the fuel being introduced?

7b) I know that Arizona Speed and Marine will plumb a high-rise dual plane
manifold for MPI...anybody try such a thing? 

8) Anybody use the Barry Grant VFI TBI?

9) Anyone try the TPIS Mini Ram?

Sorry for the length...looking forward to your replies!

Thanks a lot...Doug

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct 15 18:40:13 1999
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #580
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 04:33:53 +0200
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> > Mercury delivers a high perf 200 dfi that took 2 place at paris ruoen
24
> > hour (river) race.The ability to run lean  burn  conditions is great
for
> > reliability as  I see it.
> 
> Do they really deliver it? Given that it has a lower unit that can't  
> reverse, it wouldn't make much sense for anything but racing.
I think they used a standard gearcase, they didnt have to change the lower
unit during the race.They saved lots of time that way.
I havent sen any pictures or description of the lover unit they used.
 And as a racer  
> you get more power per cubic inch from an XR2, 2.5EFI or even a 300
ProMax.
> 
> > I have 2  2.5efi high performance engines that I am reparing, line
boring
> 
> Are they any fun? 
Just problems so far, but nice to look at with mahle forged pistons,
lots of ports .aluminium Nicasil treated sleeves. Big reed blocks.
and the v8 inspired trottle body.The loverunits are beauties, I have a
slightly modified Yamaha 225hp with nose cone that I have to fill with 
padding all the time, I want to weld it but maybe it will change because of
the heat.Maybe the new lowerunits from Yamaha with biger skeg and 
low water pickups has the same gear and internals as the one I have .  

I have very modified Yamaha 200 
What modifications have you done?

that will get an EFI  
> system if it is still running when I can aford one (eg MADEFI) or find
time 
I have looked at the mad efi myself, no I am hoping that 332 efi would
do the trick.
 
I would like to play with the ignition also...
Do you have any info on recalibrating the ignition system on the Yamaha 
engine?
> to build something... Performance below 4000 RPM is not exactly stunning
when  
> using carbs.
What hp does it make?
I read somewhere that the ox66 engine used GM corvette ecu.
 


> > They have analog efi with old d-jetronic peek and hold injectors.(As
> > standard)
> 
> Is this the 260hp version?
Yes.

> > The new 2.5 efis has digital boxes ,Motorolabased.
> 
> The 280hp machines?
Yes.
 
Espen Hilde

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct 15 19:49:08 1999
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Massive snippage

>What kind of filler do you use on the nose cone? (Mine is welded, and the  
>paint is coming off, but the putty stays...)
>

Personally, here at Cone Shaped Hat, HQ, I think spandex, would make for a 
good fit rather then filler..  Might start a trend wearing a hat on one's 
nose, maybe Dopey will volunteer, for the fashion segment..  Or use a 
spanddex liner, with the usual fannel/fleece outter shell.
Hmmm.

Has anyine seen any four strokes other then the Mercedes v-6 sedan car using 
an expansion chamber (s), like a 2 stroke.
  Any thoughts on why this might really be worthwhile, or just a cosmetic 
gimmick.  Would have thought other teams would be working with it by now if 
it made a hill of beans difference...
Cheers
Grumpy
     Hey Dopey, where are ya??.


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Oct 16 03:48:57 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 20:15:00 +0100
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: RE: MEMS
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At 05:00 15/10/99 -0400, you wrote:
>>What does the knock sensor do? What does it mean if I don't have one
>
>Detects the onset of knocking and dynamically reduces the ignition
>timing advance to minimise it. Not all the systems implement knock,
>If you chose to use a system that does, but don't want to use it (or
>don't have anywhere to mount it) the best would be to have the sensor
>connected so that it doesn't create a sensor detection fault; the
>system will never see a knock signal, so will perform normally.

My Rover manual doesn't mention a knock sensor so it cannot have one. (and
we all trust rover don't we....yeah right) The manual says it plays with
the timeing at idle. But I presume that once it comes off idle it just uses
the map of MAP/REVs

>I think it's to do with hot start strategy when there could be the
>possibility of fuel vapourisation in the fuel rail. I've only seen this
>fitted on MPi applications, where the sensor is mounted on a boss, thermally
>attached to the fuel rail.

Sounds reasonable....

>>>All MEMS systems control ignition, either single coil or distributorless.
>>>All systems use a stepper motor controlled throttle stop for idle speed
>>>control.
>
>>Apart from the Mpi (97 on) minis which have a bypass valve which bleeds are
>>from the filter casing into the manifold.
>
>I wasn't aware of that - I've only ever seen steppers.... we live and learn.

It is a stepper motor. But instead of an adjustable butterfly endstop. It
is a 'pintle valve' (what ever that is) Which is adjusted by a stepper. The
valve is mounted to the manifold where it does the turn towards the head.
It has a hose that goes from the valve up to the filter side of the
throttle body. 

Ade

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Oct 16 06:58:57 1999
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To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: MEMS
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Subject: RE: MEMS

At 05:00 15/10/99 -0400, you wrote:

>It is a stepper motor. But instead of an adjustable butterfly endstop. It
>is a 'pintle valve' (what ever that is) Which is adjusted by a stepper. 
>The.valve is mounted to the manifold where it does the turn towards the 
>head.
>It has a hose that goes from the valve up to the filter side of the
>throttle body. 

That makes sense - like the earlier Lucas systems then....

>Ade



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Oct 16 09:38:39 1999
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From: Todd Israels <israels@mnsi.net>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #583
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At 05:00 AM 10/16/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>DIY_EFI Digest       Saturday, October 16 1999       Volume 04 : Number 583
>
>
>
>
>Hello all...my name is Doug Dayson...I live in the San Francisco Bay Area in
>CA...I'm a musician/audio engineer/producer and software engineer by trade...
>
>I'm currently researching converting my modified 71 Corvette Coupe to
>EFI...mostly because I run around with a club of people with newer Vettes
that are
>injected and when we get into higher altitudes I can't compete w/o rejetting
>(which is a hassle) so...
>
>The Vette weighs 3200lbs with a half a tank and no driver...it has a
"stock short
>rod" 406ci/375hp small block chev with TFS Aluminum Heads...Edlebrock
>Performer Manifold and modified Q-Jet carb...1 5/8" X 3" headers...hyd flat
>tappet cam timing is 218 @ .050 with a 110 LSA and .485 lift...it currently
>makes around 450 ft/lbs at 4000 rpm and 375 at 5000 rpm (all gross at the
>crank)...BTW it's already been converted to HEI ignition...
>

	The easyest conversion is a complete drivetrain swap from an EFI car, all
parts are matched and work well toghther.  You can get a VERY complete
setup from some wreckers, but most are butchers and will damage or lose
many parts.  A very good source is buy a wreck off an insurence company
before the wreckers get at it.  
	If that does not work out for you and you want to keep your current engine
I think a GM 454SS throttel boddy and GM truck ecm should provide the
airflow needed and the ecm has been well hacked so it is not too difficult
to tweek for your engine, anthough I expect the stock callibration will
start and run fairly well It will not be a perfect calibration.  The TBI
uses less fuel pressure ans most if not all of your carb plumbing should be
reuseable.  If you are really lucky you will alredy have an in tank fuel
pump that is the same body as a tbi pump so all that is needed is a pump
change. 
	There is a GM ECM list that may be of more help if you decide to try this
setup.  
					Best of luck
					Todd Israels  


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Oct 16 11:40:31 1999
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #583
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 11:48:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <199910160900.FAA19644@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu> from "DIY_EFI Digest" at Oct 16, 99 05:00:01 am
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> From: nacelp@jvlnet.com (CSH-HQ)
> Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #582

good to see you back in action Bruce
when do you get out of the shop?
> 
> Has anyine seen any four strokes other then the Mercedes v-6 sedan car using 
> an expansion chamber (s), like a 2 stroke.
>   Any thoughts on why this might really be worthwhile, or just a cosmetic 
> gimmick.  Would have thought other teams would be working with it by now if 
> it made a hill of beans difference...


it may allow for a more radical ex cam pattern without any torque loss

Clive 

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From: bearbvd@cmn.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #583
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>Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 14:44:16 -0700
>From: Doug Dayson <djdayson@ix.netcom.com>
>Subject: Intro and SB Chev Recommendations...
>
>Hello all...my name is Doug Dayson...I live in the San Francisco Bay Area in
>CA...I'm a musician/audio engineer/producer and software engineer by trade...
>
>I'm currently researching converting my modified 71 Corvette Coupe to
>EFI...mostly because I run around with a club of people with newer Vettes
>that are
>injected and when we get into higher altitudes I can't compete w/o rejetting
>(which is a hassle) so...
>
 Hi Doug--

Hopefully Tom Sharpe will chime in here, he has done a bunch of Chebbies.
So has Carl Summers.

My $.02--

Of the systems you have named, FP is far and away the class of the group.
Another one in the same price/performance class is the Autronics unit
(www.turbofast.com)--which uses the 68332 processor.

One possible dealer for the FP unit is Jack Cotton, who can be found on the
gnttype (Buick) list (www.gnttype.org). I think he sells them pretty
reasonably.

The wide band O2 option is WELL worth having--mebbe Gar will chime in here,
there may be a diy WBO2 unit available through this list fairly soon. Do a
word search on EGOR in the archives for some INTERESTING reading on this
subject!

As for the manifold--you might check out Force EFI besides the ones you
mentioned.

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Oct 16 17:31:40 1999
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>> From: nacelp@jvlnet.com (CSH-HQ)
>> Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #582
>
>good to see you back in action Bruce
>when do you get out of the shop?

Have to spend a week, in a half way house (remot building from hospital).
Doc mentioned moving over there this next week.  I have a biopsy due thurs. 
so alot hangs on that for when I go home.  Also, have to have a family 
member here for 4-5 days to learn the meds, and life style changes.  BTW, 
staples
and stitches came out today
>> 
>> Has anyine seen any four strokes other then the Mercedes v-6 sedan car using 
>> an expansion chamber (s), like a 2 stroke.
>>   Any thoughts on why this might really be worthwhile, or just a cosmetic 
>> gimmick.  Would have thought other teams would be working with it by now if 
>> it made a hill of beans difference...
>
>
>it may allow for a more radical ex cam pattern without any torque loss

Sound like something for a SBC....
Thanks
Grumpy
>
>Clive 


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Oct 16 22:37:15 1999
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From: "Carl Summers" <intech@writeme.com>
To: "Diy_Efi" <Diy_Efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: EFI for 71 vette
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 19:39:08 -0700
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Hi Doug,
    There are some really nice units out there but I still haven't seen
anything I like(under $5000.00) better than a GM computer for a daily
driver,,,it offers you closed loop for better gas mileage, spark knock
control and even checks for octane upon start up to just name a few.....the
downside is without software to make the job easier you have to do a bunch
of work in hex once you locate the tables..(the breakdown of the 7730 is
completely available) Use any manifold you want, get the correct size
injectors(we can help with that) Use a Gm distibutor and sensors,,,,you can
buy an eprom burner and erasure cheap on ebay( http://www.ebay.com ) do a
search under eprom....I will go into further detail on how to do this job if
you are interested...I am currently doing a 68 camaro with a 396 multi
port(my own, basically a tunnel ram and a custom plenum) and am even having
the GM 7730 control the fuel enrichment and spark table for the
nitrous(still working on that but close) This car should run 11's without
nitrous and 10's with(traction a factor)......ttyl
-Carl Summers
p.s. you can do this very reasonable and have an awesome RELIABLE
system.....check the aftermarkets failure rate....then think again about
using a proven GM system......
>
> In a message dated 10/16/99 12:22:12 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu writes:
>
> << Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 12:50:47 -0600
>  From: bearbvd@cmn.net (Greg Hermann)
>  Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #583
>
>  >Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 14:44:16 -0700
>  >From: Doug Dayson <djdayson@ix.netcom.com>
>  >Subject: Intro and SB Chev Recommendations...
>  >
>  >Hello all...my name is Doug Dayson...I live in the San
> Francisco Bay Area in
>  >CA...I'm a musician/audio engineer/producer and software engineer by
> trade...
>  >
>  >I'm currently researching converting my modified 71 Corvette Coupe to
>  >EFI...mostly because I run around with a club of people with
> newer Vettes
>  >that are
>  >injected and when we get into higher altitudes I can't compete
> w/o rejetting
>  >(which is a hassle) so...
>  >
>   Hi Doug--
>
>  Hopefully Tom Sharpe will chime in here, he has done a bunch of Chebbies.
>  So has Carl Summers.
>
>  My $.02--
>
>  Of the systems you have named, FP is far and away the class of the group.
>  Another one in the same price/performance class is the Autronics unit
>  (www.turbofast.com)--which uses the 68332 processor.
>
>  One possible dealer for the FP unit is Jack Cotton, who can be
> found on the
>  gnttype (Buick) list (www.gnttype.org). I think he sells them pretty
>  reasonably.
>
>  The wide band O2 option is WELL worth having--mebbe Gar will
> chime in here,
>  there may be a diy WBO2 unit available through this list fairly
> soon. Do a
>  word search on EGOR in the archives for some INTERESTING reading on this
>  subject!
>
>  As for the manifold--you might check out Force EFI besides the ones you
>  mentioned.
>
>  Regards, Greg
>   >>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Oct 17 10:21:30 1999
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References: <199910161900.PAA24448@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #584
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 23:39:47 -0400
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I haven't seen it but I've heard about it.  It seems to me to be similar to
what Greg H described in having an expansion chamber to fool the exhaust
into thinking it has reached the end of the pipe.  Also the megaphones cause
pressure waves to be reflected back to the engine over a larger rpm range.
4 stroke motorcycles have used megaphones.  The design is not quite like a 2
stroke pipe, though.  I don't think a 2 stroke style will work on a 4
stroke.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>
> >
> > Has anyine seen any four strokes other then the Mercedes v-6 sedan car
using
> > an expansion chamber (s), like a 2 stroke.
> >   Any thoughts on why this might really be worthwhile, or just a
cosmetic
> > gimmick.  Would have thought other teams would be working with it by now
if
> > it made a hill of beans difference...
>
>
> it may allow for a more radical ex cam pattern without any torque loss
>
> Clive



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Oct 17 16:10:33 1999
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From: bearbvd@cmn.net (Greg Hermann)
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>DIY_EFI Digest        Sunday, October 17 1999        Volume 04 : Number 586
>
>
>
>In this issue:
>
>	Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #584
>
>See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the
>DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 23:39:47 -0400
>From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@oh.verio.com>
>Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #584
>
>I haven't seen it but I've heard about it.  It seems to me to be similar to
>what Greg H described in having an expansion chamber to fool the exhaust
>into thinking it has reached the end of the pipe.  Also the megaphones cause
>pressure waves to be reflected back to the engine over a larger rpm range.
>4 stroke motorcycles have used megaphones.  The design is not quite like a 2
>stroke pipe, though.  I don't think a 2 stroke style will work on a 4
>stroke.

A megaphone is also a pretty effective (and efficient) device for
converting gas velocity back into static pressure.

Since the atatic pressure at the end of the megaphone is pretty much equal
to atmospheric, that means that the convergent (nozzle) point of the
collector, at the small end of the megaphone, will be at a static pressure
below atmospheric, and the engine will effectively be running against a
lower back-pressure than it does without the megaphone. As always--lower
backpressure equates to less pumping losses in the engine, and therefore
higher net output, particularly at high engine speeds/flows.

Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 18 03:57:50 1999
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From: "Mike" <Itsmike@lvcm.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: EFI for 71 vette
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 01:00:54 -0700
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what kind of throtel body are you going to run? Im interested in doing a efi
for a 454 im building. Right now im doing a 72 chevy p/u with a tpi. what
kinda cars did th 7730 come in?

mike

> Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 19:39:08 -0700
> From: "Carl Summers" <intech@writeme.com>
> Subject: EFI for 71 vette
>
> Hi Doug,
>     There are some really nice units out there but I still haven't seen
> anything I like(under $5000.00) better than a GM computer for a daily
> driver,,,it offers you closed loop for better gas mileage, spark knock
> control and even checks for octane upon start up to just name a
> few.....the
> downside is without software to make the job easier you have to do a bunch
> of work in hex once you locate the tables..(the breakdown of the 7730 is
> completely available) Use any manifold you want, get the correct size
> injectors(we can help with that) Use a Gm distibutor and
> sensors,,,,you can
> buy an eprom burner and erasure cheap on ebay( http://www.ebay.com ) do a
> search under eprom....I will go into further detail on how to do
> this job if
> you are interested...I am currently doing a 68 camaro with a 396 multi
> port(my own, basically a tunnel ram and a custom plenum) and am
> even having
> the GM 7730 control the fuel enrichment and spark table for the
> nitrous(still working on that but close) This car should run 11's without
> nitrous and 10's with(traction a factor)......ttyl
> - -Carl Summers
> p.s. you can do this very reasonable and have an awesome RELIABLE
> system.....check the aftermarkets failure rate....then think again about
> using a proven GM system......
>
>




From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 18 09:49:32 1999
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Carl,
I am interested, I might have to do this sometime soon with my 383 BB mopar.
Thanks


>>,you can
>>buy an eprom burner and erasure cheap on ebay( http://www.ebay.com ) do a
>>search under eprom....I will go into further detail on how to do this job if
>>you are interested...



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 18 10:13:51 1999
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 10:13:10 EDT
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #587 efi for 71 vette
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Hi,
     Right now I have a single blade large round TB originally off a First 
EFI system (equates to about 950 cfm by square area) but am thinking of 
getting one of the large single oval TPI type TB's from TPIS(1350 cfm)....
-Carl Summers

In a message dated 10/18/99 2:24:24 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu writes:

<< 
 Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 01:00:54 -0700
 From: "Mike" <Itsmike@lvcm.com>
 Subject: RE: EFI for 71 vette
 
 what kind of throtel body are you going to run? Im interested in doing a efi
 for a 454 im building. Right now im doing a 72 chevy p/u with a tpi. what
 kinda cars did th 7730 come in?
 
 mike
 
 > Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 19:39:08 -0700
 > From: "Carl Summers" <intech@writeme.com>
 > Subject: EFI for 71 vette
 >
 > Hi Doug,
 >     There are some really nice units out there but I still haven't seen
 > anything I like(under $5000.00) better than a GM computer for a daily
 > driver,,,it offers you closed loop for better gas mileage, spark knock
 > control and even checks for octane upon start up to just name a
 > few.....the
 > downside is without software to make the job easier you have to do a bunch
 > of work in hex once you locate the tables..(the breakdown of the 7730 is
 > completely available) Use any manifold you want, get the correct size
 > injectors(we can help with that) Use a Gm distibutor and
 > sensors,,,,you can
 > buy an eprom burner and erasure cheap on ebay( http://www.ebay.com ) do a
 > search under eprom....I will go into further detail on how to do
 > this job if
 > you are interested...I am currently doing a 68 camaro with a 396 multi
 > port(my own, basically a tunnel ram and a custom plenum) and am
 > even having
 > the GM 7730 control the fuel enrichment and spark table for the
 > nitrous(still working on that but close) This car should run 11's without
 > nitrous and 10's with(traction a factor)......ttyl
 > - -Carl Summers
 > p.s. you can do this very reasonable and have an awesome RELIABLE
 > system.....check the aftermarkets failure rate....then think again about
 > using a proven GM system......
 >
  >>

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 18 11:53:27 1999
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 08:54:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bob Moon <fzrider@yahoo.com>
Subject: Injector sizing
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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>     There are some really nice units out there but I still haven't seen
> anything I like(under $5000.00) better than a GM computer for a daily
> driver,,,it offers you closed loop for better gas mileage, spark knock
> control and even checks for octane upon start up to just name a few.....the
> downside is without software to make the job easier you have to do a bunch
> of work in hex once you locate the tables..(the breakdown of the 7730 is
> completely available) Use any manifold you want, get the correct size
> injectors(we can help with that) Use a Gm distibutor and sensors,,,,you can
> buy an eprom burner and erasure cheap on ebay( http://www.ebay.com ) do a
> search under eprom....I will go into further detail on how to do this job if
> you are interested...I am currently doing a 68 camaro with a 396 multi
> port(my own, basically a tunnel ram and a custom plenum) and am even having
> the GM 7730 control the fuel enrichment and spark table for the
> nitrous(still working on that but close) This car should run 11's without
> nitrous and 10's with(traction a factor)......ttyl
> - -Carl Summers
> p.s. you can do this very reasonable and have an awesome RELIABLE
> system.....check the aftermarkets failure rate....then think again about
> using a proven GM system......

Hmm.  Speaking of correct injector sizing, how can I find the correct size for
my Ninja 900?  I was performing some calculations, and it appears the bike has
airflow similar to that of an LT-1 or modified Mustang (72mm single-plate TB,
52mm dual-plate TB).  Does that suggest that I would need the same size
injectors?  I know stock Mustang 5.0s have 19lb/hr injectors, and those using
70mm TBs typically have 24lb/hr squirters.  Dunno what Corvettes and Camaros
use.

Also, any idea on how to set up an initial fuel map?  I'm working out a system
to use closed loop below 1/2 throttle and 6000 RPMs, then go to a mapped open
loop above either entry test.  However, I don't wish to kill the 900
immediately when I fire it up...  I was thinking I could find the correct
injector, then look up (somehow) the engineering specs for said injector, and
perform some calculations to get the (hopefully) required PW for the given
airflow.

Thanks,

Bob Moon
'99 Dodge Durango - Brutus
'92 Shadow 1100C - The Shadow
'85 GPz900 - Phoenix - Test Bed
'82 XL250R - Frankenstein
'81 YZ125H - The Wiz
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 18 13:54:44 1999
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From: "The Holling's" <holling@oz.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <199909211900.PAA32543@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Fuel Injector ID'ing?
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 10:57:48 -0700
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I came across some fuel injectors but the owner doesn't know much else about
them other than a part # (17104487B). Can anyone decode who or what size
these injectors are?

thanks,
-Jesse



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How exactly do you use the prom equipment talked about on E-bay to calibrate
OEM computers?


-----Original Message-----
From: DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
[mailto:DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]
Sent: Monday, October 18, 1999 2:00 PM
To: DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #588



DIY_EFI Digest        Monday, October 18 1999        Volume 04 : Number 588



In this issue:

	Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #585
	Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #587 efi for 71 vette
	Injector sizing
	Fuel Injector ID'ing?

See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 10:00:07 -0400
From: John_Calabrese@ENGELHARD.COM
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #585

Carl,
I am interested, I might have to do this sometime soon with my 383 BB mopar.
Thanks


>>,you can
>>buy an eprom burner and erasure cheap on ebay( http://www.ebay.com ) do a
>>search under eprom....I will go into further detail on how to do this job
if
>>you are interested...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 10:13:10 EDT
From: EFISYSTEMS@aol.com
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #587 efi for 71 vette

Hi,
     Right now I have a single blade large round TB originally off a First 
EFI system (equates to about 950 cfm by square area) but am thinking of 
getting one of the large single oval TPI type TB's from TPIS(1350 cfm)....
- -Carl Summers

In a message dated 10/18/99 2:24:24 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu writes:

<< 
 Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 01:00:54 -0700
 From: "Mike" <Itsmike@lvcm.com>
 Subject: RE: EFI for 71 vette
 
 what kind of throtel body are you going to run? Im interested in doing a
efi
 for a 454 im building. Right now im doing a 72 chevy p/u with a tpi. what
 kinda cars did th 7730 come in?
 
 mike
 
 > Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 19:39:08 -0700
 > From: "Carl Summers" <intech@writeme.com>
 > Subject: EFI for 71 vette
 >
 > Hi Doug,
 >     There are some really nice units out there but I still haven't seen
 > anything I like(under $5000.00) better than a GM computer for a daily
 > driver,,,it offers you closed loop for better gas mileage, spark knock
 > control and even checks for octane upon start up to just name a
 > few.....the
 > downside is without software to make the job easier you have to do a
bunch
 > of work in hex once you locate the tables..(the breakdown of the 7730 is
 > completely available) Use any manifold you want, get the correct size
 > injectors(we can help with that) Use a Gm distibutor and
 > sensors,,,,you can
 > buy an eprom burner and erasure cheap on ebay( http://www.ebay.com ) do a
 > search under eprom....I will go into further detail on how to do
 > this job if
 > you are interested...I am currently doing a 68 camaro with a 396 multi
 > port(my own, basically a tunnel ram and a custom plenum) and am
 > even having
 > the GM 7730 control the fuel enrichment and spark table for the
 > nitrous(still working on that but close) This car should run 11's without
 > nitrous and 10's with(traction a factor)......ttyl
 > - -Carl Summers
 > p.s. you can do this very reasonable and have an awesome RELIABLE
 > system.....check the aftermarkets failure rate....then think again about
 > using a proven GM system......
 >
  >>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 08:54:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bob Moon <fzrider@yahoo.com>
Subject: Injector sizing

>     There are some really nice units out there but I still haven't seen
> anything I like(under $5000.00) better than a GM computer for a daily
> driver,,,it offers you closed loop for better gas mileage, spark knock
> control and even checks for octane upon start up to just name a
few.....the
> downside is without software to make the job easier you have to do a bunch
> of work in hex once you locate the tables..(the breakdown of the 7730 is
> completely available) Use any manifold you want, get the correct size
> injectors(we can help with that) Use a Gm distibutor and sensors,,,,you
can
> buy an eprom burner and erasure cheap on ebay( http://www.ebay.com ) do a
> search under eprom....I will go into further detail on how to do this job
if
> you are interested...I am currently doing a 68 camaro with a 396 multi
> port(my own, basically a tunnel ram and a custom plenum) and am even
having
> the GM 7730 control the fuel enrichment and spark table for the
> nitrous(still working on that but close) This car should run 11's without
> nitrous and 10's with(traction a factor)......ttyl
> - -Carl Summers
> p.s. you can do this very reasonable and have an awesome RELIABLE
> system.....check the aftermarkets failure rate....then think again about
> using a proven GM system......

Hmm.  Speaking of correct injector sizing, how can I find the correct size
for
my Ninja 900?  I was performing some calculations, and it appears the bike
has
airflow similar to that of an LT-1 or modified Mustang (72mm single-plate
TB,
52mm dual-plate TB).  Does that suggest that I would need the same size
injectors?  I know stock Mustang 5.0s have 19lb/hr injectors, and those
using
70mm TBs typically have 24lb/hr squirters.  Dunno what Corvettes and Camaros
use.

Also, any idea on how to set up an initial fuel map?  I'm working out a
system
to use closed loop below 1/2 throttle and 6000 RPMs, then go to a mapped
open
loop above either entry test.  However, I don't wish to kill the 900
immediately when I fire it up...  I was thinking I could find the correct
injector, then look up (somehow) the engineering specs for said injector,
and
perform some calculations to get the (hopefully) required PW for the given
airflow.

Thanks,

Bob Moon
'99 Dodge Durango - Brutus
'92 Shadow 1100C - The Shadow
'85 GPz900 - Phoenix - Test Bed
'82 XL250R - Frankenstein
'81 YZ125H - The Wiz
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 10:57:48 -0700
From: "The Holling's" <holling@oz.net>
Subject: Fuel Injector ID'ing?

I came across some fuel injectors but the owner doesn't know much else about
them other than a part # (17104487B). Can anyone decode who or what size
these injectors are?

thanks,
- -Jesse

------------------------------

End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #588
*****************************

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<BODY>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>How exactly do you use the prom equipment talked =
about on E-bay to calibrate OEM computers?</FONT>
</P>
<BR>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>-----Original Message-----</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>From: =
DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>[<A =
HREF=3D"mailto:DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu">mailto:DI=
Y_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu</A>]</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Sent: Monday, October 18, 1999 2:00 PM</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>To: DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Subject: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #588</FONT>
</P>
<BR>
<BR>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>DIY_EFI =
Digest&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Monday, October 18 =
1999&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Volume 04 : Number =
588</FONT>
</P>
<BR>
<BR>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>In this issue:</FONT>
</P>

<P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT SIZE=3D2>Re: =
DIY_EFI Digest V4 #585</FONT>
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT SIZE=3D2>Re: =
DIY_EFI Digest V4 #587 efi for 71 vette</FONT>
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT SIZE=3D2>Injector =
sizing</FONT>
<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <FONT SIZE=3D2>Fuel =
Injector ID'ing?</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>See the end of the digest for information on =
subscribing to the </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT =
SIZE=3D2>---------------------------------------------------------------=
-------</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 10:00:07 -0400</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>From: John_Calabrese@ENGELHARD.COM</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #585</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Carl,</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>I am interested, I might have to do this sometime =
soon with my 383 BB mopar.</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Thanks</FONT>
</P>
<BR>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt;&gt;,you can</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt;&gt;buy an eprom burner and erasure cheap on =
ebay( <A HREF=3D"http://www.ebay.com" =
TARGET=3D"_blank">http://www.ebay.com</A> ) do a</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt;&gt;search under eprom....I will go into further =
detail on how to do this job if</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt;&gt;you are interested...</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>------------------------------</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 10:13:10 EDT</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>From: EFISYSTEMS@aol.com</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #587 efi for 71 =
vette</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Hi,</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Right now I have a single =
blade large round TB originally off a First </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>EFI system (equates to about 950 cfm by square area) =
but am thinking of </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>getting one of the large single oval TPI type TB's =
from TPIS(1350 cfm)....</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>- -Carl Summers</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>In a message dated 10/18/99 2:24:24 AM Pacific =
Daylight Time, </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu =
writes:</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>&lt;&lt; </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 01:00:54 -0700</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;From: &quot;Mike&quot; =
&lt;Itsmike@lvcm.com&gt;</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;Subject: RE: EFI for 71 vette</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;what kind of throtel body are you going to =
run? Im interested in doing a efi</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;for a 454 im building. Right now im doing a 72 =
chevy p/u with a tpi. what</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;kinda cars did th 7730 come in?</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;mike</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 19:39:08 =
-0700</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; From: &quot;Carl Summers&quot; =
&lt;intech@writeme.com&gt;</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; Subject: EFI for 71 vette</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt;</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; Hi Doug,</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; There are some =
really nice units out there but I still haven't seen</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; anything I like(under $5000.00) better =
than a GM computer for a daily</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; driver,,,it offers you closed loop for =
better gas mileage, spark knock</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; control and even checks for octane upon =
start up to just name a</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; few.....the</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; downside is without software to make the =
job easier you have to do a bunch</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; of work in hex once you locate the =
tables..(the breakdown of the 7730 is</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; completely available) Use any manifold =
you want, get the correct size</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; injectors(we can help with that) Use a Gm =
distibutor and</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; sensors,,,,you can</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; buy an eprom burner and erasure cheap on =
ebay( <A HREF=3D"http://www.ebay.com" =
TARGET=3D"_blank">http://www.ebay.com</A> ) do a</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; search under eprom....I will go into =
further detail on how to do</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; this job if</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; you are interested...I am currently doing =
a 68 camaro with a 396 multi</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; port(my own, basically a tunnel ram and a =
custom plenum) and am</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; even having</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; the GM 7730 control the fuel enrichment =
and spark table for the</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; nitrous(still working on that but close) =
This car should run 11's without</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; nitrous and 10's with(traction a =
factor)......ttyl</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; - -Carl Summers</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; p.s. you can do this very reasonable and =
have an awesome RELIABLE</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; system.....check the aftermarkets failure =
rate....then think again about</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt; using a proven GM system......</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp;&gt;</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&nbsp; &gt;&gt;</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>------------------------------</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 08:54:18 -0700 (PDT)</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>From: Bob Moon &lt;fzrider@yahoo.com&gt;</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Subject: Injector sizing</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; There are some really =
nice units out there but I still haven't seen</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt; anything I like(under $5000.00) better than a =
GM computer for a daily</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt; driver,,,it offers you closed loop for better =
gas mileage, spark knock</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt; control and even checks for octane upon start =
up to just name a few.....the</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt; downside is without software to make the job =
easier you have to do a bunch</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt; of work in hex once you locate the tables..(the =
breakdown of the 7730 is</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt; completely available) Use any manifold you =
want, get the correct size</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt; injectors(we can help with that) Use a Gm =
distibutor and sensors,,,,you can</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt; buy an eprom burner and erasure cheap on ebay( =
<A HREF=3D"http://www.ebay.com" =
TARGET=3D"_blank">http://www.ebay.com</A> ) do a</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt; search under eprom....I will go into further =
detail on how to do this job if</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt; you are interested...I am currently doing a 68 =
camaro with a 396 multi</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt; port(my own, basically a tunnel ram and a =
custom plenum) and am even having</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt; the GM 7730 control the fuel enrichment and =
spark table for the</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt; nitrous(still working on that but close) This =
car should run 11's without</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt; nitrous and 10's with(traction a =
factor)......ttyl</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt; - -Carl Summers</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt; p.s. you can do this very reasonable and have =
an awesome RELIABLE</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt; system.....check the aftermarkets failure =
rate....then think again about</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>&gt; using a proven GM system......</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Hmm.&nbsp; Speaking of correct injector sizing, how =
can I find the correct size for</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>my Ninja 900?&nbsp; I was performing some =
calculations, and it appears the bike has</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>airflow similar to that of an LT-1 or modified =
Mustang (72mm single-plate TB,</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>52mm dual-plate TB).&nbsp; Does that suggest that I =
would need the same size</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>injectors?&nbsp; I know stock Mustang 5.0s have =
19lb/hr injectors, and those using</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>70mm TBs typically have 24lb/hr squirters.&nbsp; =
Dunno what Corvettes and Camaros</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>use.</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Also, any idea on how to set up an initial fuel =
map?&nbsp; I'm working out a system</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>to use closed loop below 1/2 throttle and 6000 RPMs, =
then go to a mapped open</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>loop above either entry test.&nbsp; However, I don't =
wish to kill the 900</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>immediately when I fire it up...&nbsp; I was =
thinking I could find the correct</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>injector, then look up (somehow) the engineering =
specs for said injector, and</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>perform some calculations to get the (hopefully) =
required PW for the given</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>airflow.</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Thanks,</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Bob Moon</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>'99 Dodge Durango - Brutus</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>'92 Shadow 1100C - The Shadow</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>'85 GPz900 - Phoenix - Test Bed</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>'82 XL250R - Frankenstein</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>'81 YZ125H - The Wiz</FONT>
<BR><FONT =
SIZE=3D2>__________________________________________________</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Do You Yahoo!?</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Bid and sell for free at <A =
HREF=3D"http://auctions.yahoo.com" =
TARGET=3D"_blank">http://auctions.yahoo.com</A></FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>------------------------------</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 10:57:48 -0700</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>From: &quot;The Holling's&quot; =
&lt;holling@oz.net&gt;</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Subject: Fuel Injector ID'ing?</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>I came across some fuel injectors but the owner =
doesn't know much else about</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>them other than a part # (17104487B). Can anyone =
decode who or what size</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>these injectors are?</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>thanks,</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>- -Jesse</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>------------------------------</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #588</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>*****************************</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the =
command:</FONT>
</P>

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 19 08:53:54 1999
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> Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 18:25:30 -0500
> From: Jim Brandon <Brandon@linnstate.edu>
> Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #588
>
> How exactly do you use the prom equipment talked about on E-bay to calibrate
> OEM computers?
> 

You use the prom burner to copy the EPROM data into a "bin" file.  Then
you use one of several bin editors to make the changes that you want to
timing, fuel, etc.  Then you use the prom burner again to copy your
changes to a now EPROM, and insert that into your ECM.

--steve

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

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What an earth is this HTML-crap doing in my e-mail?

RPekka
--

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 19 10:53:39 1999
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From: "Gary Moulton" <gmoabrim@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Manual control of IAC motor
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 07:53:07 PDT
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Can someone tell me which terminals of the IAC motor runs the pintle in and 
out? The wiring diagrams show two coils and the connector has 4 terminals. 
Does one coil send the position back to the ecm and the other is a 12 volt 
reversable dc motor?

Application is 1994 Mopar 4.0L EFI in a 1982 Jeep CJ-7, and what I want to 
do is be able to manually adjust the idle lower than the 750-800 rpm when 
off-roading. I have connectors and a harness and some electrical experience. 
I plan to have a switch to disconnect the IAC from the system for manual 
control and a spring loaded switch to "bump" the IAC position in or out. 
There is a company offering such a controller for more money than I think it 
should cost to build one myself. Thanks in advance

Gary M
gmoabrim@lasal.net

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 19 14:45:33 1999
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an eprom is an eprom is an eprom,,,,,doesn't matter what it's used in...not 
GM specific....hth's
-Carl Summers
p.s. a 7730 is used in 90-92 camaro/firebirds and others

In a message dated 10/19/99 2:29:35 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu writes:

<< 
 How exactly do you use the prom equipment talked about on E-bay to calibrate
 OEM computers?
 
 
 - -----Original Message-----
 From: DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 [m >>

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 19 16:37:02 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 16:36:14 EDT
Subject: RE: Manual control of IAC motor
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In a message dated 10/19/99 1:29:36 PM Mountain Daylight Time, 
DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu writes:

<< Can someone tell me which terminals of the IAC motor runs the pintle in 
and 
 out? The wiring diagrams show two coils and the connector has 4 terminals. 
 Does one coil send the position back to the ecm and the other is a 12 volt 
 reversable dc motor? >>

Sound like a job for

    STEPPER MOTOR CONTROLLER

The circuit is more involved that just attaching power to it.  A stepper 
motor controller will switch polarity on the stepper motor such rotation and 
speed is controlled.  If your really interested, I could try to dig up some 
stepper motor controller info.  The web should have some info on "Stepper 
motor controller"

Good luck,

Mike

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 19 17:04:06 1999
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> Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 07:53:07 PDT
> From: "Gary Moulton" <gmoabrim@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Manual control of IAC motor
> 
> Can someone tell me which terminals of the IAC motor runs the pintle in and
> out? The wiring diagrams show two coils and the connector has 4 terminals.
> Does one coil send the position back to the ecm and the other is a 12 volt
> reversable dc motor?
> 
> Application is 1994 Mopar 4.0L EFI in a 1982 Jeep CJ-7, and what I want to
> do is be able to manually adjust the idle lower than the 750-800 rpm when
> off-roading. I have connectors and a harness and some electrical experience.
> I plan to have a switch to disconnect the IAC from the system for manual
> control and a spring loaded switch to "bump" the IAC position in or out.
> There is a company offering such a controller for more money than I think it
> should cost to build one myself. Thanks in advance
> 
> Gary M
> gmoabrim@lasal.net

Gary, the IAC is a stepper motor.  There's a very good explanation of
steppers on the internet right here: 
http://www.cs.uiowa.edu/~jones/step/

A stepper motor has two coils in it, and the ends of both coils are
brought out to the harness resulting in 4 wires.  If you energize one
coil the rotor will rotate to a position aligned with that coil.  If you
energize the second coil the rotor will rotate a little bit to be
aligned between the two coils.  If you turn off the first coil the rotor
will rotate a little more to line up directly with the second coil.  If
you energise the first coil again with the opposite polarity of the
first time the rotor will rotate a little more, and so on.

Basically the ECM applies pulses in a particular sequence to the four
wires to produce rotation, where each pulse results in some amount of
rotation of the motor (a couple degrees or so).  The motor can be made
to spin either direction by changing the polarity of the pulses.

That's a simplified explanation, if you want more details the link above
has everything you could want and then some.

--steve

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 19 17:52:48 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 14:00:59 -0700
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Hi Carl...thanks for the reply...I'd love to hear more about that  Camaro of your's!

I'm not familiar with the realibility records of the aftermarket
systems...please enlighten me...

I certainly agree with the "keep it all GM" concept...in that I do drive it
long distances and it would be great to have the ability to service it at any
GM dealer if needed while in the "boondocks"...

Currently my engine only consumes somewhere around 625 cfm max...I believe
that the BB TBI's flow 670 cfm so I too have thought about a BB TBI...Holley
makes a SB TBI manifold good for 6000 rpm as well...I'll have to check it's
height though?

Questions...

a) Are we assuming the the stock closed loop portions of the fuel and spark
maps will be close enough...and that just the open loop WOT stuff would need
adjustment...as well as the spark curve probably...I'm emissions exempt so I
won't be needing canister purging or egr etc...

b) Will the truck TBI ECM do Torque Converter Lock-Up...that would be nice to
put back in the car...currently defeated with the carb etc...I assume that it will?

c) There seems to be a fuel delievery problem however...Holley sells a 2
barrel TBI rig and rates it for only 275HP with two 80 lb./hr injectors...will
these things pass enough fuel for me...don't want to go lean at the big end...

What's the SS454's output and at what rpm does it occur?

I figure to be making 425HP @ 5250 with my roller cam upgrade...will need to
support that!

d) Would be very interested in info regarding the calibration process and
procedures...tech writings etc...I have access to a EPROM burner etc...

Thanks again...looking forward to hearing from you...

Doug

P.S...is digest the only way to recieve the list at this time?


> Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 19:39:08 -0700
> From: "Carl Summers" <intech@writeme.com>
> Subject: EFI for 71 vette
> 
> Hi Doug,
>     There are some really nice units out there but I still haven't seen
> anything I like(under $5000.00) better than a GM computer for a daily
> driver,,,it offers you closed loop for better gas mileage, spark knock
> control and even checks for octane upon start up to just name a few.....the
> downside is without software to make the job easier you have to do a bunch
> of work in hex once you locate the tables..(the breakdown of the 7730 is
> completely available) Use any manifold you want, get the correct size
> injectors(we can help with that) Use a Gm distibutor and sensors,,,,you can
> buy an eprom burner and erasure cheap on ebay( http://www.ebay.com ) do a
> search under eprom....I will go into further detail on how to do this job if
> you are interested...I am currently doing a 68 camaro with a 396 multi
> port(my own, basically a tunnel ram and a custom plenum) and am even having
> the GM 7730 control the fuel enrichment and spark table for the
> nitrous(still working on that but close) This car should run 11's without
> nitrous and 10's with(traction a factor)......ttyl
> - -Carl Summers
> p.s. you can do this very reasonable and have an awesome RELIABLE
> system.....check the aftermarkets failure rate....then think again about
> using a proven GM system......
> >
> > In a message dated 10/16/99 12:22:12 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu writes:
> >



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 19 17:52:55 1999
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Hi Greg...

Thanks for the reply...I'll check out your ideas below...keep the list up to
date on the EGOR...

Thanks again...Doug

>   Hi Doug--
>
>  Hopefully Tom Sharpe will chime in here, he has done a bunch of Chebbies.
>  So has Carl Summers.
>
>  My $.02--
>
>  Of the systems you have named, FP is far and away the class of the group.
>  Another one in the same price/performance class is the Autronics unit
>  (www.turbofast.com)--which uses the 68332 processor.
>
>  One possible dealer for the FP unit is Jack Cotton, who can be
> found on the
>  gnttype (Buick) list (www.gnttype.org). I think he sells them pretty
>  reasonably.
>
>  The wide band O2 option is WELL worth having--mebbe Gar will
> chime in here,
>  there may be a diy WBO2 unit available through this list fairly
> soon. Do a
>  word search on EGOR in the archives for some INTERESTING reading on this
>  subject!
>
>  As for the manifold--you might check out Force EFI besides the ones you
>  mentioned.
>
>  Regards, Greg


> << Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 12:50:47 -0600
>  From: bearbvd@cmn.net (Greg Hermann)
>  Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #583
>
>  >Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 14:44:16 -0700
>  >From: Doug Dayson <djdayson@ix.netcom.com>
>  >Subject: Intro and SB Chev Recommendations...
>  >
>  >Hello all...my name is Doug Dayson...I live in the San
> Francisco Bay Area in
>  >CA...I'm a musician/audio engineer/producer and software engineer by
> trade...
>  >
>  >I'm currently researching converting my modified 71 Corvette Coupe to
>  >EFI...mostly because I run around with a club of people with
> newer Vettes
>  >that are
>  >injected and when we get into higher altitudes I can't compete
> w/o rejetting
>  >(which is a hassle) so...
>  >
>   >>



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Subject: Re: Manual control of IAC motor, DIY_EFI Digest V4 #590:
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 16:02:10 -0600
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| Gary,

If it's like my 90 GM, the IAC is a stepper motor. The pintle is on a worm
gear, and rotation moves it in and out. The coils take turns to rotate the
pintle by 90 deg. At any time, one coil is in an 'enabled' position and can
rotate the pintle in either direction, the other coil is in a neutral
position (will not cause the pintle to rotate).
So you apply a voltage to Coil A, the pintle will turn 1/4 rev in some
direction. If it doesn't turn, then the other coil is enabled (needs to be
activated first). The opposite polarity (on coil A) would have turned it in
the opposite direction.
Apply a voltage to the second coil (coil B), and it will rotate in the same
direction another 1/4 turn, or back the way you came. Switch polarity if
necessary.

You can build a stepper switch with one DPDT latching-latching switch and
one SPDT momentary-center-momentary switch. This will let you move the
pintle in or
out, one step at a time, by toggling the SPDT to alternate sides..

Hope this helps, and I hope my info is correct.

Al
| ------------------------------
|
| Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 07:53:07 PDT
| From: "Gary Moulton" <gmoabrim@hotmail.com>
| Subject: Manual control of IAC motor
|
| Can someone tell me which terminals of the IAC motor runs the pintle in
and
| out? The wiring diagrams show two coils and the connector has 4 terminals.
| Does one coil send the position back to the ecm and the other is a 12 volt
| reversable dc motor?
|
| Application is 1994 Mopar 4.0L EFI in a 1982 Jeep CJ-7, and what I want to
| do is be able to manually adjust the idle lower than the 750-800 rpm when
| off-roading. I have connectors and a harness and some electrical
experience.
| I plan to have a switch to disconnect the IAC from the system for manual
| control and a spring loaded switch to "bump" the IAC position in or out.
| There is a company offering such a controller for more money than I think
it
| should cost to build one myself. Thanks in advance
|
| Gary M
| gmoabrim@lasal.net
|




From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 19 18:09:22 1999
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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
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Subject: Re: Manual control of IAC motor
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Gary,

Odds are this is a stepper motor and the motor is moved forward and back by
energizing the coils in sequence.  Check out L293D series device as a possible
chip for driving the motor.

John



Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 07:53:07 PDT
>From: "Gary Moulton" <gmoabrim@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Manual control of IAC motor
>
>Can someone tell me which terminals of the IAC motor runs the pintle in and
>out? The wiring diagrams show two coils and the connector has 4 terminals.
>Does one coil send the position back to the ecm and the other is a 12 volt
>reversable dc motor?
>
>Application is 1994 Mopar 4.0L EFI in a 1982 Jeep CJ-7, and what I want to
>do is be able to manually adjust the idle lower than the 750-800 rpm when
>off-roading. I have connectors and a harness and some electrical experience.
>I plan to have a switch to disconnect the IAC from the system for manual
>control and a spring loaded switch to "bump" the IAC position in or out.
>There is a company offering such a controller for more money than I think it
>should cost to build one myself. Thanks in advance
>
>Gary M
>gmoabrim@lasal.net
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 14:44:57 EDT
>From: EFISYSTEMS@aol.com
>Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #589
>
>an eprom is an eprom is an eprom,,,,,doesn't matter what it's used in...not
>GM specific....hth's
>- -Carl Summers
>p.s. a 7730 is used in 90-92 camaro/firebirds and others
>
>In a message dated 10/19/99 2:29:35 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
>DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu writes:
>
><<
> How exactly do you use the prom equipment talked about on E-bay to calibrate
> OEM computers?
>
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [m >>
>
>------------------------------
>
>End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #590
>*****************************
>
>To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command:
>
>    subscribe diy_efi-digest
>
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> above with "diy_efi".
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct 20 06:54:00 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 10:47:02 +0000
From: bmoseley@attmail.com (Bob Moseley)
Received: from bmoseley by attmail; Wed Oct 20 10:46:50 GMT 1999
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Subject: Luftmeister EFI for BMW Boxer twin Motorcycle
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I have a "luftmiester" efi system which I bought s/hand at an autojumble. The 
ECU is stamped Haltech. I am not entirely sure it is complete. It has two 
sensors, one to a throttle body and one to a cylinder head. There are 4 three 
pin din type leads on the harness of which these two sensors are connected. What
are the other two for? How can I test the ECU. Fortunately the wires for power 
supply, the fuel pump and earth etc are labled so that should be OK.

Does anyone know of a Haltech supplier / distributor in the UK or have any 
practical knowledge of fitting such a system to BMW R100/7 boxer twin.

All help gratefully received.

Bob Moseley
bmoseley@attmail.com
Redditch
Enlgland

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct 20 09:42:40 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 07:44:46 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #591
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>
>Currently my engine only consumes somewhere around 625 cfm max...I believe
>that the BB TBI's flow 670 cfm so I too have thought about a BB TBI...Holley
>makes a SB TBI manifold good for 6000 rpm as well...I'll have to check it's
>height though?
>
Hi Doug--

Watch out for the flow on things like Holley Pro-Jection. 2 barrel carbs
are rated for flow (in cfm) at 3 inches of Hg pressure drop. 4 barrel carbs
are rated for flow at 1.5 in. Hg pressure drop--NOBODY seems to publish the
pressure drop at which things like pro-jection are flow rated---BUT--I have
talked to folks who have tried the pro-jection, and found, by
experience--their engine does _ NOT _ flow nearly as well as with a 4
barrel of similar flow rating--that Holley must be rating the projection
units at some (unknown) higher pressure drop!!!

 (Just for general info, the multiplier for comparing 2 barrel carbs to 4
barrels is .707. A 350 cfm rated 2 barrel only flows 247.5 cfm if rated
using the same test conditions which are used for rating a 4 barrel!)

Regards, Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Oct 20 13:10:00 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #590
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At 15:00 19/10/99 -0400, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:
>
>Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 07:53:07 PDT
>From: "Gary Moulton" <gmoabrim@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Manual control of IAC motor
>
>Can someone tell me which terminals of the IAC motor runs the pintle in and 
>out? The wiring diagrams show two coils and the connector has 4 terminals. 
>Does one coil send the position back to the ecm and the other is a 12 volt 
>reversable dc motor?
>
>Application is 1994 Mopar 4.0L EFI in a 1982 Jeep CJ-7, and what I want to 
>do is be able to manually adjust the idle lower than the 750-800 rpm when 
>off-roading. I have connectors and a harness and some electrical experience. 
>I plan to have a switch to disconnect the IAC from the system for manual 
>control and a spring loaded switch to "bump" the IAC position in or out. 
>There is a company offering such a controller for more money than I think it 
>should cost to build one myself. Thanks in advance

I don't know about your system but the mini one IAC is a stepper motor. You
need a driver to run it. The motors I have seen have a permanant magnet on
the spindle then the driver powers coils to step the field round. I am
supprised it doesn't have any feed back of where it is though. I suppose
the ECU gets it to the right place by trial and error. Then resets it's
self back to a postion where startup is good.

There are loads of driver chips around cannot think of on off hand. There
are 2 different sorts of motor too 4 and 6 wire ones... cannot remember
what yours is called tho.

HTH,

Ade

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct 21 02:19:15 1999
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> Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 07:44:46 -0600
> From: bearbvd@cmn.net (Greg Hermann)
> Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #591
> 
> >
> >Currently my engine only consumes somewhere around 625 cfm max...I believe
> >that the BB TBI's flow 670 cfm so I too have thought about a BB TBI...Holley
> >makes a SB TBI manifold good for 6000 rpm as well...I'll have to check it's
> >height though?
> >
> Hi Doug--
> 
> Watch out for the flow on things like Holley Pro-Jection. 2 barrel carbs
> are rated for flow (in cfm) at 3 inches of Hg pressure drop. 4 barrel carbs
> are rated for flow at 1.5 in. Hg pressure drop--NOBODY seems to publish the
> pressure drop at which things like pro-jection are flow rated---BUT--I have
> talked to folks who have tried the pro-jection, and found, by
> experience--their engine does _ NOT _ flow nearly as well as with a 4
> barrel of similar flow rating--that Holley must be rating the projection
> units at some (unknown) higher pressure drop!!!
> 
>  (Just for general info, the multiplier for comparing 2 barrel carbs to 4
> barrels is .707. A 350 cfm rated 2 barrel only flows 247.5 cfm if rated
> using the same test conditions which are used for rating a 4 barrel!)
> 
> Regards, Greg

Thanks Greg...I had completely forgotten that fact...quite right you are!

I'll try Holley's Tech Support and report back...

Doug

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct 21 07:35:33 1999
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Holley is not rating the CFM of it's TBI's by airflow, as strange as that 
might seem.  They are using a comparitive rating of the injector size 
supplied to average jetting used per carb.  I don't have the exact numbers 
here but like they have 3 TB's all with the same butterflies,, but rate them 
as 650 w/45 lb/hr injectors, 750 has 55's, and the 900 80-90's.  
  All I can say with absolute certainty is that for me, a 355 224@.050 cam,
9.0:1 CR 3000lb car, with gears and converter luvs 2 (2") butterflies, and 2 
90lb/hr injectors..  
Grumpy




>> 
>> Watch out for the flow on things like Holley Pro-Jection. 2 barrel carbs
>> are rated for flow (in cfm) at 3 inches of Hg pressure drop. 4 barrel carbs
>> are rated for flow at 1.5 in. Hg pressure drop--NOBODY seems to publish the
>> pressure drop at which things like pro-jection are flow rated---BUT--I have
>> talked to folks who have tried the pro-jection, and found, by
>> experience--their engine does _ NOT _ flow nearly as well as with a 4
>> barrel of similar flow rating--that Holley must be rating the projection
>> units at some (unknown) higher pressure drop!!!
>> 
>>  (Just for general info, the multiplier for comparing 2 barrel carbs to 4
>> barrels is .707. A 350 cfm rated 2 barrel only flows 247.5 cfm if rated
>> using the same test conditions which are used for rating a 4 barrel!)
>> 
>> Regards, Greg
>
>Thanks Greg...I had completely forgotten that fact...quite right you are!
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct 21 09:04:11 1999
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From: "Stephen R. Cauffiel" <cauffiel@erols.com>
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Subject: EPROM Programmer?
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 09:06:22 -0400
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	Hey fellas, I own a 1988 Trans Am that I am dropping a 383 into.  It has a
305 with TBI currently and I want to learn how to modify/burn my own chips
in order to keep using the TBI setup.  I think the TBI system could be made
to support serious horsepower (using a 454 setup perhaps), I just need to
learn more on this whole programming thing.  Doing it on the cheap would be
nice, too.  I was looking on E-Bay for EPROM burners/programmers but I'm not
sure what I need to be looking for.  If anyone can point me in the right
direction I would appreciate it:  type of burner, type of chips, books that
I can get a real start in, etc..  A "Car Chips Computer Programming for
Dummies" would be nice.  I have been lurking on this list for quite a while,
but a lot of it is still greek to me (even with a computer programming
background) so any help would be appreciated!

Steve
"Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not
sure about the former."      ~Albert Einstein~


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct 21 11:24:22 1999
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The flow capacity of things like throttle bodies or carburetors cannot be
considered a single number.  The number is OK for comparison purposes but
should not be thought of as some kind of limit.  These things will flow more
at a higher pressure drop, less at a lower one.  A gasoline engine consumes
close to 140 cfm for every 100 hp.  A 400 hp engine therefore consumes 560
actual cfm.  A device rated at 650 cfm at 1.5 in. Hg will have a pressure
drop of (560/650)^2*1.5 or 1.1 in. Hg.  If you want less restriction, a 750
rated device will have only 0.84 in. Hg pressure drop on a  400 hp engine.

The flow ratings are merely a point on a curve.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>


> > >Currently my engine only consumes somewhere around 625 cfm max...I
believe
> > >that the BB TBI's flow 670 cfm so I too have thought about a BB
TBI...Holley
> > >makes a SB TBI manifold good for 6000 rpm as well...I'll have to check
it's
> > >height though?



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct 21 12:52:18 1999
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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?= <jurg@2.sbbs.se>
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Subject: Are Honda VTEC turbo 
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 18:53:08 +0200
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A friend is installing a turbo in a Honda Civic with a B16A VTEC engine. I
am going to build an additional injector controller for it. An aftermarket
engine management system will be installed later on.

I will try to trigger a multivibrator from the rising flank of stock
injectors and I need to know if the engine uses sequencial injection or
batch fire. I hope to save some time if any of you guys know this since I
can't put my hands on the car until sunday.

Should I expect large voltage peaks when the injectors close?

Jörgen Karlsson
Gothenburg, Sweden


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct 21 13:53:20 1999
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #592
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| From what I can tell, the ECM (on a 90 GM) keeps track of the IAC position
by remembering how many pulses it has sent out. This count shows up on a
scanner.

I believe the ECM reseats the IAC pindle (sends out multiple pulses to bring
it all the way in or out) every time:
(a) The battery power is removed and reapplied     (b) you put the ECM in
diagnostic mode by grounding at the ALDL connector, and
(c) The car is driven at over 20 mph.
By doing this, the ECM knows what position the IAC is, and recalibrates the
IAC position by resetting the pulse count.


| Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 13:32:04 +0100
| From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
| Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #590
|
| At 15:00 19/10/99 -0400, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:
| >
| >Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 07:53:07 PDT
| >From: "Gary Moulton" <gmoabrim@hotmail.com>
| >Subject: Manual control of IAC motor
| >
| >Can someone tell me which terminals of the IAC motor runs the pintle in
and
| >out? The wiring diagrams show two coils and the connector has 4
terminals.
| >Does one coil send the position back to the ecm and the other is a 12
volt
| >reversable dc motor?
| >
| >Application is 1994 Mopar 4.0L EFI in a 1982 Jeep CJ-7, and what I want
to
| >do is be able to manually adjust the idle lower than the 750-800 rpm when
| >off-roading. I have connectors and a harness and some electrical
experience.
| >I plan to have a switch to disconnect the IAC from the system for manual
| >control and a spring loaded switch to "bump" the IAC position in or out.
| >There is a company offering such a controller for more money than I think
it
| >should cost to build one myself. Thanks in advance
|
| I don't know about your system but the mini one IAC is a stepper motor.
You
| need a driver to run it. The motors I have seen have a permanant magnet on
| the spindle then the driver powers coils to step the field round. I am
| supprised it doesn't have any feed back of where it is though. I suppose
| the ECU gets it to the right place by trial and error. Then resets it's
| self back to a postion where startup is good.
|
| There are loads of driver chips around cannot think of on off hand. There
| are 2 different sorts of motor too 4 and 6 wire ones... cannot remember
| what yours is called tho.
|
| HTH,
|
| Ade
|
|


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct 21 14:04:56 1999
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Has anyone worked on or are currently working on a ecu file for
promedit/winbin for a 165 ecm?. Or an even better idea :-), does anyone out
there have a ecu file already?  Can I create a ecu file?, If I can, what do
I need to know?  (no smart donkey comments please :-).)
Mike Rolica
EXT. 260
 :-)


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct 21 14:18:08 1999
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct 21 15:40:15 1999
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Just curious, but have you been to the ecmguys URL, and gotten the 165 file?.
Or are uoy saying your to the stage of wanting to have an editor for it?.
Grumpy
   


>Has anyone worked on or are currently working on a ecu file for
>promedit/winbin for a 165 ecm?. Or an even better idea :-), does anyone out
>there have a ecu file already?  Can I create a ecu file?, If I can, what do
>I need to know?  (no smart donkey comments please :-).)
>Mike Rolica
>EXT. 260
> :-)
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct 21 15:45:26 1999
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From: "Steve Leonard" <gsxr1300@hotmail.com>
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I have a '86 Buick GN. I would like to be able to read the ALDL data stream 
(ALA scanner) with my hand held PC. Anyone have any Ideas???

regards

Steve

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Oct 21 19:59:38 1999
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To: "dfi" <DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Vortec injection
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 17:03:09 -0700
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Does anyone know about the vortec injection on 95 454 chevys? Is it a multi
port injection? Batch or sequential ? What i want it for is a big block
project car is there any high performance potential for the injection?

thanks

Mike




From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct 22 07:08:38 1999
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Have you heard of Turbolink?.  There is also another that reads off the 
PC itself.  Both are discribed at the gn ttype home page.  The 148 ya got is 
the 165 set-up, the archives are full os stuff related to that.
Grumpy
>
>Subject: Reading ALDL output
>
>I have a '86 Buick GN. I would like to be able to read the ALDL data stream 
>(ALA scanner) with my hand held PC. Anyone have any Ideas???
>regards
>Steve
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct 22 07:17:44 1999
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DIY_EFI Digest wrote:

> Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 17:03:09 -0700
> From: "Mike" <Itsmike@lvcm.com>
> Subject: Vortec injection
> 
> Does anyone know about the vortec injection on 95 454 chevys? Is it a multi
> port injection? Batch or sequential ? What i want it for is a big block
> project car is there any high performance potential for the injection?
> 
> thanks
> 
> Mike
> 
I've worked with it a little in stock form.  It's much better running
than tbi, esp. at idle.  But a lot of that may be in the cam, as I
took a 96 engine and installed it in a carby app with much success.
Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct 22 07:53:30 1999
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From: leigh <lee@tac.com.au>
Subject: chev tpi swapping
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contact JEGS MAIL ORDER  PART NO. 840-53 cost $14.95
chev tpi fuel injection swappers guide.  it could help with
retro fitting to your engines.  phone 1.800.345.4545
                            leigh turner

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct 22 08:15:55 1999
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 08:15:22 -0400
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic@xephic.dynip.com>
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Subject: buick ALDL
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> Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 12:44:45 PDT
> From: "Steve Leonard" <gsxr1300@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Reading ALDL output
> 
> I have a '86 Buick GN. I would like to be able to read the ALDL data stream
> (ALA scanner) with my hand held PC. Anyone have any Ideas???

Steve,  Ken Mosher has a program, cable kit that does exactly that...
its worth the investment.


-- 

Frederic Breitwieser
Xephic Technology
769 Sylvan Ave #9
Bridgeport CT 06606

Tele: (203) 372-2707
 Fax: (603) 372-1147
Web: http://xephic.dynip.com/

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct 22 09:18:18 1999
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 09:17:19 EDT
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #595, reading aldl output
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Yep, find Ken Mosher,
he has a product called Turbo Link.  Lots of features,
very reasonable price, yada,yd.....
Does anyone have the page that shows it's features?
Mike V
> ate: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 12:44:45 PDT
>  From: "Steve Leonard" <gsxr1300@hotmail.com>
>  Subject: Reading ALDL output
>  
>  I have a '86 Buick GN. I would like to be able to read the ALDL data 
stream 
>  (ALA scanner) with my hand held PC. Anyone have any Ideas???
>  
>  regards
>  
>  Steve
>  

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct 22 09:34:40 1999
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 08:33:25 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Jason Haines <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
Subject: 1996-1999 454 GM EFI
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The 1996 - 1999 454 was multiport injection with a flash type PCM (also
used on the 1996-1999 5.7L CK trucks). I am pretty sure the 1996-1999
system was sequential. The 1995 454 EFI was a throttle body injection system.

Hope this helps,


Jason



>Does anyone know about the vortec injection on 95 454 chevys? Is it a multi
>port injection? Batch or sequential ? What i want it for is a big block
>project car is there any high performance potential for the injection?
>
>thanks
>
>Mike


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> Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 17:03:09 -0700
> From: "Mike" <Itsmike@lvcm.com>
> Subject: Vortec injection
> 
> Does anyone know about the vortec injection on 95 454 chevys? Is it a multi
> port injection? Batch or sequential ? What i want it for is a big block
> project car is there any high performance potential for the injection?
> 

I dont know about any OEM parts but I know Arizona Speed and Marine makes
a multi port manifold for big block chevy.

-Eric


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct 22 11:49:36 1999
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From: Kelly McCrystle <KellyM@amed.com>
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Subject: AFM to Maf Conversion
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	Has anyone made a "box" which would allow me to replace my AFM with
a MAF sensor.  Presently I have L-Jetronic injection and I am tired of
having to replace my AFM on a regular basis.

	Kelly M


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct 22 13:26:51 1999
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 12:23:53 -0500
To: gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Jason Haines <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
Subject: HEXWORKS improvements etc.
Cc: DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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How many people use HEXWORKS?

I was talking with the guy that wrote HEXWORKS the other day and he asked
if I new of any improvements that could be made to the program. If you have
specific improvements, changes or additions you would like to see to the
program - e-mail them to me and I will forward them to him. Please include
if it is ok for him to contact you directly if he has questions about your
ideas.

For those that are not familiar with the program, HEXWORKS is a HEX editor
that allows you to edit very large files.

BTW - a new version of HEXWORKS should be out soon. They are in BETA
testing now.



Jason




---------------------------------------------------------------------
Jason R. Haines				jhaines@lingenfelter.com
Lingenfelter Performance Engineering	219-724-2552 / FAX 219-724-8761
1557 Winchester Road, Decatur, IN 46733 USA
http://www.lingenfelter.com		catalog, shop talk and more
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct 22 14:04:36 1999
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Howdy everyone,

    I'm new to the list so please ecuse any mishaps on this post,my
first. I am in the process of fabricating a multi Port fuel injection
for Full Size Jeeps that are equipped with the AMC 360 or 401 engines. I
have been in contact with several efi and dfi vendors,and currently have
a metal fabrication discussion going on with one of the design engineers
over at Holley. What I was wondering, was a while back on one of the
little jeep(cj's and wranglers) websites someone coverted a amc straight
6 to EFI using a system off a chevy astro, the ECM was reprogrammed for
him by someone off this list. So I am curious has anyone attempted such
a ecm reprog on say a Ponitac ECM out of a 90 an up v8 based Firebird/TA
or a 90 and up Camaro or Vette? At the current time I am thinking of
using as much as I can from a 94 camaro I found junked, I would like to
use the injectors,ecm and as much of harness as possible, based on
intake spacing I already know I will need to fab my own fuel rails and
mod an existing manifold. Due to the fact that I am on a limited budget
been considereing using a stock jeep v8 intake, they are very basic
spread bore designs with a single plane underneath. My current thought
is to machine out the spread bores,leaving an open faced single plan
manifold.
For my air valve the Holley engineer suggested using an old quadra jet
and removing the venturies, which is what he did on his own custom
system.

any thoughts or suggestions would be welcome

thanks
Ned



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct 22 17:17:44 1999
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> Subject: AFM to Maf Conversion
> 
> 	Has anyone made a "box" which would allow me to replace my AFM with
> a MAF sensor.  Presently I have L-Jetronic injection and I am tired of
> having to replace my AFM on a regular basis.
> 
> 	Kelly M
> 
I made a L-Jet intercecpt box a few years ago for O2 sensor catalyst
retrofit.  I started to work on Ford MAF to L-jet box with list
member.
Alex

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct 22 19:15:49 1999
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 19:10:14 -0400
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
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Hello all,
 This is an intro note. I'll be lurking to try to see if I can possibly learn
enough to go with efi on my ongoing project.  It's a twin turbo'd/N20 511 cubic
inch pro street style '67 Chev pick up.
 I've looked at the archives and there seems to be talk here about turbos,
intercoolers and such. I'm a layman [sheet metal worker] and know next to nothing
about electronics. I know that efi would be much better than my blow through the
carb plan. I hope to learn if it is doable with mostly junkyard parts.
 Thanks for the list.
Dave Brode
Frostburg Maryland


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Oct 22 19:34:15 1999
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I've uploaded a very nice injector application/flow listing,
complements of Jason D. (aka Spectro Coating Corp.).  Although it's
not complete, it has not got some of the errors that other www
injector lists contain.  If anyone has info to add or to complete the
list, or general comments, please send it to Jason or myself.  
ftp://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/incoming/fuelflow.txt

Shannen


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> Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 16:57:35 +0000
> From: Ned Williams <willian@sti.imshealth.com>
> Subject: Multiport Injection setups and Design
> 
> Howdy everyone,
> 
>     I'm new to the list so please ecuse any mishaps on this post,my
> first. I am in the process of fabricating a multi Port fuel injection
> for Full Size Jeeps that are equipped with the AMC 360 or 401 engines. I
> have been in contact with several efi and dfi vendors,and currently have
> a metal fabrication discussion going on with one of the design engineers
> over at Holley. What I was wondering, was a while back on one of the
> little jeep(cj's and wranglers) websites someone coverted a amc straight
> 6 to EFI using a system off a chevy astro, the ECM was reprogrammed for
> him by someone off this list. So I am curious has anyone attempted such
> a ecm reprog on say a Ponitac ECM out of a 90 an up v8 based Firebird/TA
> or a 90 and up Camaro or Vette? At the current time I am thinking of
> using as much as I can from a 94 camaro I found junked, I would like to
> use the injectors,ecm and as much of harness as possible, based on
> intake spacing I already know I will need to fab my own fuel rails and
> mod an existing manifold. Due to the fact that I am on a limited budget
> been considereing using a stock jeep v8 intake, they are very basic
> spread bore designs with a single plane underneath. My current thought
> is to machine out the spread bores,leaving an open faced single plan
> manifold.
> For my air valve the Holley engineer suggested using an old quadra jet
> and removing the venturies, which is what he did on his own custom
> system.
> 
> any thoughts or suggestions would be welcome
Sure.  For a port setup, you could use a 2bbl throttle body from a
port fuel injected Cadillac, and a Holley 4bbl to GM TBI adapter. 
This will give you a nice start.  The 90 Camaro tpi engine uses a
1227730 ecm, and there is tuning software available for it.  There are
injector sizing formulas and lists available in the archives, on the
ftp site, and around the web.  In fact, you should spend some time
searching the archives for info, as there is a plethora of it
available.  One member has adapted a tbi setup to his jeep, along with
an early pickup computer.  This may be the simplest, fastest way to
get a taste for efi swaps.  Happy hunting.
http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/diy_efi/
Shannen

> 
> thanks
> Ned
> 
> ------------------------------
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Oct 23 00:02:17 1999
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From: "Stephen R. Cauffiel" <cauffiel@erols.com>
To: "EFI-DIY List" <diy_efi-digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Converting a Performer manifold and TBI to TPI...
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999 00:03:51 -0400
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Hey guys,
	I think I remember a thread recently (here or on the Third gen list) about
drilling an Edelbrock Performer manifold for TPI injectors and running a TBI
with injectors removed as the throttle body...  Am I smoking crack?  I know
that Edelbrock has their $2000 version of this, but if I could afford
that...  This would work with the TBI harness, wouldn't it?  You would have
to rewire it so that the left injector wiring fired the left bank of TPI
injectors, and the right injector wiring the right bank...  Has anyone done
this?  Would it work?  If you could burn your own chips/reprogram the
computer to compensate for changes...  Would this work on a 383 SBC?
Please, unless you are going to stroke me a check, don't say "Just buy the
MiniRam/SuperRam/HighDollarRam and call it a day."  If I could afford stuff
like that I wouldn't even be asking this kind of question...

Thanks for any help,
			Steve

"It could probably be shown by facts and figures that there is no distinctly
native American criminal class except Congress." --Mark
Twain


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Oct 23 02:31:29 1999
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Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999 02:30:24 EDT
Subject: GM Fuel Injector Problems
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Dear efi,

I saw a rather criptic message I think you had posted on 
http://www.lindertech.com/autolink.htm about problems with your GM fuel 
injectors.  Do you know of any legal action anyone is taking to force them to 
have a recall on them?

My car isn't out of warranty yet but, when my mechanic told me that GM thinks 
it's the fuel's problem I couldn't believe it.  Why isn't every other car on 
the road having problems?  He then said that they've come up with a cleaning 
procedure every 15000 miles to the tune of about $65.  I'm not paying for an 
engineering mistake that they are not going to admit to.  I'm an engineer who 
also works in the auto industry and this is exactly what it sounds like to me.

Please let me know any more you've heard about this subject.

Thanks a lot,

-CApops@aol.com

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Oct 23 08:18:34 1999
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98%of the injector problems, I've/friends/customers have had, usually were a 
problem with the fuel.  The detergent packages vary greatly, and depending 
on what/where you use for fuel can be a critical issue.  Generally, a major 
brand, busy station is best.  The bargain brand stuff, can be quite old, and
lost it's light end aromatics, buyer be ware.
  Some of the fuel companies are border line legal in what they pass off as 
fuel, more so then any problem I've seen with the injectors..
  Just for grins, and using the proper saftey rules:
Take 10 cc's, of the fuel your running and add 1cc, of water, shake, and let 
settle, If you wind up with more then 1cc of what looks to be water, then 
that is, the alky content of your fuel.  I've seen upwards of 20%..  So what 
does that really say.  The fuel company, is just passing off what ever they 
can as fuel..  I'd be very leery of the detergent package  in that fuel.
Like plugs left with a pinkish hue to em, change fuel brands.
  And for the non sense, about using no higher octane then neccessary, well
if your ignoring engine life then fine..
Grumpy 


>------------------------------
>Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999 02:30:24 EDT
>From: CApops@aol.com
>Subject: GM Fuel Injector Problems
>Dear efi,
>I saw a rather criptic message I think you had posted on 
>http://www.lindertech.com/autolink.htm about problems with your GM fuel 
>injectors.  Do you know of any legal action anyone is taking to force them 
>to have a recall on them?
>My car isn't out of warranty yet but, when my mechanic told me that GM thinks 
>it's the fuel's problem I couldn't believe it.  Why isn't every other car on 
>the road having problems?  He then said that they've come up with a cleaning 
>procedure every 15000 miles to the tune of about $65.  I'm not paying for an 
>engineering mistake that they are not going to admit to.  I'm an engineer who 
>also works in the auto industry and this is exactly what it sounds like to me.
>Please let me know any more you've heard about this subject.
>Thanks a lot,
>- -CApops@aol.com
>------------------------------


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Oct 23 10:57:47 1999
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>I made a L-Jet intercecpt box a few years ago for O2 sensor catalyst
>retrofit.  I started to work on Ford MAF to L-jet box with list
>member.

>Alex

Alex, (or other listers)


Anyone made/interested in making an "intercept" box for Volkswagen Digifant
VAF to MAF? (a Bosch MAF seems the most logical) Digifant seems to be decent
system, with the exception of the ultra-restrictive VAF.

TIA,

Chris Bishop




From diy_efi-owner  Sat Oct 23 23:25:55 1999
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Subject: sound tach
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All of you that remember the audio tach/HP tuner, here is a $35
suggestion!!  TWS

http://www.surplusauction.com/wc.dll?Lots~Info~91025A-PA191114&UID=TM0B



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<HTML>
All of you that remember the audio tach/HP tuner, here is a $35 suggestion!!&nbsp;
TWS

<P><A HREF="http://www.surplusauction.com/wc.dll?Lots~Info~91025A-PA191114&UID=TM0B">http://www.surplusauction.com/wc.dll?Lots~Info~91025A-PA191114&amp;UID=TM0B</A>
<BR><A HREF="http://www.surplusauction.com/wc.dll?Lots~Info~91025A-PA191114&UID=TM0B"></A>&nbsp;
<BR><A HREF="http://www.surplusauction.com/wc.dll?Lots~Info~91025A-PA191114&UID=TM0B"></A>&nbsp;</HTML>

--------------48D98CA877ABBC49E29B1223--


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Oct 23 23:47:13 1999
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For those of us with e-mail only, how about a clue of what your talking about
Grumpy


>All of you that remember the audio tach/HP tuner, here is a $35
>suggestion!!  TWS
>
>http://www.surplusauction.com/wc.dll?Lots~Info~91025A-PA191114&UID=TM0B
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Oct 24 09:13:08 1999
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Subject: Re:AMC EFI from 94 Camaro
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Ned,
	The 94 Camaro is an LT1 with The Opti-Spark distributor. This is a bad place to
start your design.

	The 8051 PCM used in the 94 Camaro wants to see the Opti-Spark ignition. It
would take a lot of work to use it with a normal distributor. I would start with
a PCM off a GM car with a normal distributor. You could then just transplant the
distributor electronics to you AMC.

		Ken

> Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 16:57:35 +0000
> From: Ned Williams <willian@sti.imshealth.com>
> Subject: Multiport Injection setups and Design
> 
> Howdy everyone,
> 
>     I'm new to the list so please ecuse any mishaps on this post,my
> first. I am in the process of fabricating a multi Port fuel injection
> for Full Size Jeeps that are equipped with the AMC 360 or 401 engines. I
> have been in contact with several efi and dfi vendors,and currently have
> a metal fabrication discussion going on with one of the design engineers
> over at Holley. What I was wondering, was a while back on one of the
> little jeep(cj's and wranglers) websites someone coverted a amc straight
> 6 to EFI using a system off a chevy astro, the ECM was reprogrammed for
> him by someone off this list. So I am curious has anyone attempted such
> a ecm reprog on say a Ponitac ECM out of a 90 an up v8 based Firebird/TA
> or a 90 and up Camaro or Vette? At the current time I am thinking of
> using as much as I can from a 94 camaro I found junked, I would like to
> use the injectors,ecm and as much of harness as possible, based on
> intake spacing I already know I will need to fab my own fuel rails and
> mod an existing manifold. Due to the fact that I am on a limited budget
> been considereing using a stock jeep v8 intake, they are very basic
> spread bore designs with a single plane underneath. My current thought
> is to machine out the spread bores,leaving an open faced single plan
> manifold.
> For my air valve the Holley engineer suggested using an old quadra jet
> and removing the venturies, which is what he did on his own custom
> system.
> 
> any thoughts or suggestions would be welcome
> 
> thanks
> Ned

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Oct 24 12:57:52 1999
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Subject: Any 700r4 experts out there?
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Does anyone out there live in the Austin area, and have experience
inside GM automatic transmissions?  700r4/4l60 specifically?  I'm
considering tackling my first rebuild and I'd like to have access to
someone who's been there.  This is obviously way off topic so please
reply privately to me at the address in my signature, rather than to the
list.

thanks,
--steve

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Oct 24 14:17:50 1999
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From: "Mike" <Itsmike@lvcm.com>
To: "dfi" <DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: FW: Maf sensors
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 11:21:18 -0700
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Is it possible to use a lt1 or ls1 MAF sensor with a 88 tpi ECM's? It 
would seem like a good upgrade if it possible.

Mike



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Oct 24 16:40:12 1999
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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 16:39:36 EDT
Subject: Ford 57 TBird EFI 
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   Hi Folks,
     I am new to this list and am looking for some ideas. I am currently 
trying to convert my 57 Tbird 312 Y-Block to EFI using Ford EEC IV MAF system 
from the Mustang 5.0L. I am in the beginning stages of designing a lower 
intake to accept injectors and mate to the Ford GT40 upper intake. Any 
manifold makers out there?
                                               Mark

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Oct 24 16:52:43 1999
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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 16:52:10 EDT
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #600  MAF sensors
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Hi,
     I am working on that very thing, but it will take me a while to get the 
transfer function (grams per second vs. voltage)from the early MAF sensor.  I 
have it for the ls1(grams per second vs. frequency)  If someone knows someone 
at Bosch or already has this info, please email me. Thanks
-Carl Summers

In a message dated 10/24/99 12:21:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu writes:

<< 
 Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 11:21:18 -0700
 From: "Mike" <Itsmike@lvcm.com>
 Subject: FW: Maf sensors
 
  
  
 Is it possible to use a lt1 or ls1 MAF sensor with a 88 tpi ECM's? It 
 would seem like a good upgrade if it possible.
 
 Mike
  >>

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Oct 24 19:05:36 1999
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From: "Al Lipper" <alipper@cardozo.org>
To: <cwagner@info2000.net>, "EFI" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: ECU6 plans and software
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 16:23:02 -0700
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The software for ECU6 is all in the ECU6 ZIP file at
http://www.thegrid.net/lipper/efi/index.htm
If you (or anyone) is interested in building ECU6, I have one blank PC board
for it left (which I will sell for $38 + shipping).  I also have one extra
87C51GB CPU (which I'll sell for $20).  If anyone who has built an ECU6 is
interested, I can ZIP the compiled software for you to experiment with.
Good luck.

			Al


> -----Original Message-----
> From: cwagner@info2000.net [mailto:cwagner@info2000.net]
> Sent: Monday, October 25, 1999 11:16 AM
> To: efi@cardozo.org
> Subject: efi
>
>
> I would like to try and build this ECU 6 system but I don't know
> where to start.  Also, I don't have any of the programs to work with
> the board designs and I don't know how to use the programs.
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Oct 24 19:39:15 1999
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I've placed ARJT7489.bin on the FTP site.  It's for a 1991 1/2 ton,
4X4,  350 w/ 700R4

Shannen


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Oct 24 22:17:54 1999
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From: "Matt Beaubien" <mattbeaubien@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <199910241900.PAA17428@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: DIY rev limiter
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 22:21:55 -0400
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Hi all,

I have a friend who's trying to get a spec RX7 series running back home, and
would like to have a "spec" rev limiter in the interest of reliability.  I'm
not fully up on the ignition system but there are two distributors (with
points), along with a set of leading and trailing plugs.  My thought is to
kill spark to one set of plugs (vs all of them) to prevent nasty back-fires,
while hopefully cutting power.

Is there a relatively easy way of doing this?  Could a 555 be used to
monitor engine speed and then just ground one set of points?

Any help would be appreciated.

Matt Beaubien


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Oct 24 22:43:13 1999
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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 22:47:23 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Paul Tholey <pxtx@erols.com>
Subject: GM Northstar/ (NOARCH SBC LT1 stuff for sale)/ LT1 730
  controlled? 
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The more EFI related content is towards the end.  If anyone is annoyed by
fluffy stuff scroll down or hit the delete key now.  

It was only a matter of time.  I bought an 87 Mitsubishi Starion about 2.5
ears ago.  I knew the head was junk at 68,000 miles but I figured I would
just put a SBC in and have fun.  Well, I ran across an Olds Aurora 4.0 and
thought that might be the ticket.  Now the price of the crank (which is why
I got it) is over $1000.  I can buy a used Northstar 4.6 for $300.  Not a
bad deal, it just has 2 stripped head bolts.  If the block is salvageable,
I can just use the Olds starter and other stuff, BUT if it ain't does
anyone here know if the cranks will interchange?  I know they have a
different part number, but they do have the same stroke.  I was just
wondering if anyone here knew for sure.

Now I spent the weekend at my local U-Pull-It.  I grabbed some Quad4 stuff
for comparison.  The fuel rail and injectors line right up.  The cool
'tuned header' looking intake lines up, even the bolt holes, but the port
tapers down too much for it to simply bolt up to the Northstar.  I think I
am going to figure out away to put these cool intakes on my buddies
Northstar project.  In time I will be able to do the physical comparison
between my Aurora stuff and his Northstar, but not anytime soon.  


TOPIC CHANGE

I am seeing a bunch of talk on SBC stuff.  If it is helpful, I have a bunch
of cop car LT1 stuff for sale.  I am not an expert on LT1 vs traditional
SBC fit, but a deal is a deal.  

I have a 1996 LT1 for sale for $600; it has everything except the alt, A/C
compressor, and electric air pump.  The motor has a slight rod knock, I
head it run, and the mileage is 71,XXX.  I live in the suburbs of
Philadelphia, PA. 

I have a bunch of other LT1 motors that are hurt.  Bad blocks, rods, cranks
etc.  If anyone could use stuff like the injection systems (intake, TB,
injectors fuel rail, MAP sensor), iron LT1/Vortec heads, roller lifters and
cams, let me know.  I am just throwing out stuff off the top of my head.  I
think the heads and intake together are worth $200.

Does anyone even know how much of the LT1 stuff can be easily adapted to a
traditional SBC?


EFI CONTENT (Finally)

I do not currently have a PCM for the LT1 stuff.  I was thinking about
using a 730 ecm.  The only thing I see as an obstacle is the distributor.
I know the LT1 sees something like 360 pulses per 360 degree rotation,
while the 730 ecm can only read (again, I am going off the top of my head)
like 12 pulses per 360 degree rotation.  I will have to check my notes on
that.  

I am sorry for the ramblings, but I hope I am not the only one who will
benefit from this discussion.

Best regards,

Paul Tholey



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 25 01:51:17 1999
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To: efi332@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu (EFI332),
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List rules for spam are to IGNORE IT.

The list admins will take care of abuse reports etc..

Please do not waste bandwidth replying to it or complaining to the list. 

Orin, list admin.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 25 02:15:57 1999
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: Why do you want to convert to Injection?
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Hi All,

Since I have been on this list I have seen a fair amount of people
Converting to Efi of some variant or other. Personally I am here to learn
about Efi so I don't have to pay some rover dealer large amounts of money
when (not if, we are talking about Rover remember) my Fiancee's Mpi Rover
Mini Cooper stops working properly. I understand that for the ultimate
control over ignition and fuel electronics is the way to go but surely for
a road car even if you are going for as much power as you can get is it
really worth all that hassle? Surely you cannot gain more than a few Hp or
mpg even the emmisions gains cannot be that great can they? 

So come on guys what important detail have I missed? Personally I don't
think I will be converting my mini from a nice SU carb and distributor
ignition (electronic points) Unless somebody convices me otherwise.

<now where did I put that Fire proof jacket>

Ade


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 25 10:57:25 1999
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From: "David Sagers" <dls2867@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Converting a Performer manifold and TBI to TPI...
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 07:56:52 PDT
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Steve

I was trying to do the same thing a while back, the injectors in the 
Edelbrock TBI to multiport conversion, according to an Edelbrock tech, use a 
very small voltage or (ohm? can't remember the difference right now) so that 
the TBI computer which is made to drive two injectors can drive eight 
injectors without frying the computer or the injectors.  I seem to remember 
that the injectors are smaller in diameter than stock units so they won't 
fit in a factory GM EFI manifolds.  Currently the injectors come in two 
sizes, about 20 lbs per hr and the larger 29 lbs per hour.  Edelbrock says 
the they successfully run a 502 BBC with the big injectors.

The conversion kit includes a card that requires you to give them a lot of 
info about your engine, cam exhaust, etc... so they can provide the right 
chip.  That is if you engine is stock or pretty close, otherwise they will 
direct you to someone to make the chip for a bigger cam or what ever you 
have that is outside of what they will sell over the counter.  Liability, 
emissions and all those other concerns prevent them from selling chips that 
work with modified engines.

If you are really good at drilling you can make jig to hold your manifold 
and drill it for injectors, then either weld or epoxy in the bungs to hold 
the injectors.  Force Fuel Injection   http://force-efi.com/  sells these or 
you can pay to have Force make the conversion for you, about $600.  One 
thing to consider is that if you are going to use a solid fuel rail all of 
you injectors must be at the same angle and at the same height. If you look 
at the runners on a Performer, or any other dual plane intake, intake you'll 
notice that runners next to the head are various heights.  Consider a 
Edelbrock Torquer intake as all the runners next to the head are about the 
same height.  Even though the Torquer is a mid range RPM intake,  the EFI 
will really tame it down and you'll have some very strong low end power and 
throttle response.  About a year ago I read an article in a 4 wheel magazine 
that described using a Torquer converted to EFI on a rock crawling jeep.  
The bottom end power was very strong as the EFI does not depend on air flow 
to draw the fuel out of the carb.  If you use the Performer, consider making 
your ow fuel rails/lines out of some high pressure fuel line.  Another 
option is something I saw in the PAW catalog.  I think it was a Weiand 
intake that is made to be converted to EFI. It has the pads and the fuel 
rail towers cast in and would save you a bunch of time and money.  You'd 
still need to drill and weld the injector bungs.  Cost is about $250 from 
PAW.




Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999 00:03:51 -0400
From: "Stephen R. Cauffiel" <cauffiel@erols.com>
Subject: Converting a Performer manifold and TBI to TPI...

Hey guys,
	I think I remember a thread recently (here or on the Third gen list) about 
drilling an Edelbrock Performer manifold for TPI injectors and running a TBI 
with injectors removed as the throttle body...  Am I smoking crack?

I know that Edelbrock has their $2000 version of this, but if I could afford 
that...  This would work with the TBI harness, wouldn't it?  You would have 
to rewire it so that the left injector wiring fired the left bank of TPI 
injectors, and the right injector wiring the right bank...

Has anyone done this?  Would it work?  If you could burn your own 
chips/reprogram the computer to compensate for changes...  Would this work 
on a 383 SBC?

Please, unless you are going to stroke me a check, don't say "Just buy the 
MiniRam/SuperRam/HighDollarRam and call it a day."  If I could afford stuff 
like that I wouldn't even be asking this kind of question...

Thanks for any help,
Steve

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 25 12:37:52 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 12:37:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@snurgle.org>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #601
In-Reply-To: <199910250900.FAA00433@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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On Mon, 25 Oct 1999, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:

> I have a friend who's trying to get a spec RX7 series running back
> home, and would like to have a "spec" rev limiter in the interest of

It is difficult to build an ignition based rev limiter for an RX-7 because
of the dual ignition system.

> reliability.  I'm not fully up on the ignition system but there are
> two distributors (with points), along with a set of leading and

There should be only one distributor on an RX-7.  Earlier Mazda cars had
two, but the RX-7 should have one that has two sets of points in it.

> trailing plugs.  My thought is to kill spark to one set of plugs (vs
> all of them) to prevent nasty back-fires, while hopefully cutting
> power.

Backfires (actually afterburn - fire in the exhaust) is okay.  Especially
in a racing series.  Scare your opponents, amaze your friends.

The bad news is that either ignition is enough on its own to ignite the
fuel and allow you to overrev the engine.  You have to cut both ignition
systems.  Anyway, why do you need a rev limiter?  The redline on the RX-7
is only there to give some color to the tachometer.  I have overrevved my
1st generation RX-7 all the way to 8500 RPM without damage.  (don't make a
habit of that. :} )


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 25 16:47:32 1999
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 06:36:45 +1000
To: DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: leigh <lee@tac.com.au>
Subject: chev tpi swapping
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contact JEGS MAIL ORDER  PART NO. 840-53 cost $14.95
chev tpi fuel injection swappers guide.  it could help with
retro fitting to your engines.  phone 1.800.345.4545
                            leigh turner

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 25 17:40:07 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 17:39:38 -0400
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> with injectors removed as the throttle body...  Am I smoking crack?

Nope.

> Has anyone done this?  Would it work?  If you could burn your own
> chips/reprogram the computer to compensate for changes...  Would this work
> on a 383 SBC?

Drilling and milling an intake is much easier than I thought, you can
see my mopar equivilent at http://xephic.dynip.com/dodge/383intake.htm.

There is nothing stopping you from doing this to almost any intake at
all.  I found aluminum to be easier to machine with a drill press.

As far as programming, depending on the injector drivers in the ECM, you
might be able to just rewire, and use smaller injectors.

Lets say your TBI has two injectors in the throttle body throat - 80lbs
each at 45psi.  If you go the TPI route, meaning one injector per
cylinder, you would take 160lbs (80lbs @ 2 injectors) and divide by
eight, and get 20lb injectors.  One per cylinder.  If the injector
drivers of the ECM you have can support the additional load of the
injectors wired in parallel, you'd be okay.  You might have to figure
out if the TBI system fires both injectors at the same time, or
alternates them, I've seen it done both ways both OEM and aftermarket,
but the theory is four injectors go to the wires for the left TBI
injector, and the remaining 4 injectors go to the right TBI injector. 
Then, its a matter of figuring which injectors to wire to which side,
based on firing order (firing before the valve opens is a good thing!).

Something like that.  Or, you can use a junkyard ECM from say, a camaro,
firebird, monte carlo, and use a chip editing software available on
DIYEFI and make your own program.

A lot of us are doing that.  The pictures I linked above show my
converted intake, which will be managed by a bank-firing SYTY ECM
(1227749 I think).

Good luck.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 25 18:34:27 1999
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From: Tom McAuliffe 3392 <tmcauliffe@powereng.com>
To: "'DIY_EFI'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: brainbox for a 97 5.8L Ford
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 16:35:19 -0600
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This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

------_=_NextPart_000_01BF1F39.3BDDDE3A
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I recently bought and am going to install a '97 Ford 5.8L SFI engine in my
'68 Bronco.  The engine came just with what's on the engine itself, no
computer, ignition module, fuel pump relay, etc.  Does anyone out there have
a computer that would do the trick or can tell me where I can lay my hands
on one?  Thanks.

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 25 20:20:01 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 20:20:58 -0400
From: Scot Sealander <Sealand@clarityconnect.com>
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> From: EFISYSTEMS@aol.com

> I am working on that very thing, but it will take me a while to get 
> the transfer function (grams per second vs. voltage)from the early MAF 
> sensor. 

With DIACOM, that is pretty easy to get.  Just hook up the ECM on a 
bench, give it lots of ref pulses for high RPM (for no max flow
limiting), then feed the MAF input with the output of a 10 turn pot
wiper that has the ends hooked to the +5V ref and ground.  Slowly 
increase the voltage to the MAF input and DIACOM with report the Airflow
for the input voltage.

I did this once, but I don't remember where I put the data.... :-) 
It is here someplace, in some notebook.

> I have it for the ls1(grams per second vs. frequency)  If someone
> knows someone at Bosch or already has this info, please email me. 

Scot Sealander


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Paul,
	Don't know much about northstar/aurora, but I can answer some of your LT1
questions.

1) very little interchanges between the earlier SBC and LT1. The Block, heads,
and intake don't interchange.

2) The LT1 block has provisions for a normal distributor The only thing that is
missing is the whole and clamp in the intake manifold. If you use an old style
computer, I would try to adapt an HEI distributor. Gm sells a carburator style
intake manifold for use with the LT1 crate engine. It allows the use of an HEI
distributor.

3) If you do want to try to play with the LT1 PCM I have found all the tables in
the 94-95 PCM.

		Ken

> 
> Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 22:47:23 -0400
> From: Paul Tholey <pxtx@erols.com>
> Subject: GM Northstar/ (NOARCH SBC LT1 stuff for sale)/ LT1 730 controlled?
> 
> 
> TOPIC CHANGE
> 
> I am seeing a bunch of talk on SBC stuff.  If it is helpful, I have a bunch
> of cop car LT1 stuff for sale.  I am not an expert on LT1 vs traditional
> SBC fit, but a deal is a deal.
> 
> I have a 1996 LT1 for sale for $600; it has everything except the alt, A/C
> compressor, and electric air pump.  The motor has a slight rod knock, I
> head it run, and the mileage is 71,XXX.  I live in the suburbs of
> Philadelphia, PA.
> 
> I have a bunch of other LT1 motors that are hurt.  Bad blocks, rods, cranks
> etc.  If anyone could use stuff like the injection systems (intake, TB,
> injectors fuel rail, MAP sensor), iron LT1/Vortec heads, roller lifters and
> cams, let me know.  I am just throwing out stuff off the top of my head.  I
> think the heads and intake together are worth $200.
> 
> Does anyone even know how much of the LT1 stuff can be easily adapted to a
> traditional SBC?
> 
> EFI CONTENT (Finally)
> 
> I do not currently have a PCM for the LT1 stuff.  I was thinking about
> using a 730 ecm.  The only thing I see as an obstacle is the distributor.
> I know the LT1 sees something like 360 pulses per 360 degree rotation,
> while the 730 ecm can only read (again, I am going off the top of my head)
> like 12 pulses per 360 degree rotation.  I will have to check my notes on
> that.
> 
> I am sorry for the ramblings, but I hope I am not the only one who will
> benefit from this discussion.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Paul Tholey

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 25 22:03:19 1999
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From: "Clare Snyder" <claresnyder@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <199910251900.PAA10467@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Intake&exhaust tuning
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 22:03:59 -0400
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Not strictly EFI, but since I wish to inject this little fellow and need to
fet the tuning soeted out first, it is EFI related.

On a 4 cyl opposed engine with siamesed intake and exhaust (Soob EA81) what
is involved in calculating the best intake runner lengths and exhaust tube
size, length, and crossover.

The exhaust opens 60 bbdc and closes 20 abdc Intake opens 20btdc and closes
60 atdc. Need max HP at about 4800 RPM. Now for the fly in the ointment. The
firing order is such that the 2 siamesed cyls fire sequentially, and banks
alternately, so each exhaust sees pop - pop - hush - hush, and each intake
sees suck - suck - rest - rest. What is the best approach to tuning this
system?


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Oct 25 23:20:15 1999
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From: "Matt Beaubien" <mattbeaubien@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <199910251900.PAA10467@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: DIY rev limiter
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 23:24:14 -0400
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William,

> It is difficult to build an ignition based rev limiter for an RX-7 because
> of the dual ignition system.

There's nothing quite like a good challenge ;-).

> There should be only one distributor on an RX-7.  Earlier Mazda cars had
> two, but the RX-7 should have one that has two sets of points in it.

Fair enough.  I was just going by what my friend had said.  So is there a
dual prong rotor that fires one set of plugs, rotates a bit, and then fires
the second pair?

> Backfires (actually afterburn - fire in the exhaust) is okay.  Especially
> in a racing series.  Scare your opponents, amaze your friends.

What about blowing exhaust systems off?

> The bad news is that either ignition is enough on its own to ignite the
> fuel and allow you to overrev the engine.  You have to cut both ignition
> systems.  Anyway, why do you need a rev limiter?  The redline on the RX-7
> is only there to give some color to the tachometer.  I have overrevved my
> 1st generation RX-7 all the way to 8500 RPM without damage.  (don't make a
> habit of that. :} )

Wouldn't it loose a fair bit of power with only one set firing?  My friend
said that people were revving the cars too much and reliability was becoming
a factor.  Buzzing your street occasionally to 8500 RPM may be ok but when
it's done lap after lap for extended periods of time, things fail.  The goal
is to keep the cost down (ie. relatively stock, used engines) and failures
just deter people.  Also, these cars will be run on frozen lakes in the near
future.  Even with studs, traction can be lost quite easily which spins the
engine to the moon.

If both points need to be cut, so be it.  It'd be nice if it was gentler
than that so maybe every other revolution could be interrupted?
Nonetheless, does anyone have any ideas/suggestions.

Thanks.


Matt Beaubien


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 26 01:49:10 1999
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From: "Kapocs Attila" <Kapocs@novserv.obuda.kando.hu>
Organization: Kando Kalman Polytechnic
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 07:46:02 +0100
Subject: Intel 8061 pinout for EEC-IV
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Dear Members,

I would like to know the pinout for the Intel 8061 microcontroller 
used in Ford EEC-IV ECUs. Intel refused to give me any 
information regarding this component (this is only for Ford).

	So if you can help, please send me some information.

		Sincerely
				Attila Kapocs
				

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 26 08:44:08 1999
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From: lmaggi - Larry Maggio <Larry.Maggio@acxiom.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Source for SES or Check engine light
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 10:36:56 -0700
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Im looking for a decent check engine light.... something a little more
aesthetically pleasing than your basic radio shack bulb.

Any ideas? 

Thanks,
Larry


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 26 09:50:43 1999
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #602
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> Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 07:56:52 PDT
> From: "David Sagers" <dls2867@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Converting a Performer manifold and TBI to TPI...
>
> Steve
>
>
> If you are really good at drilling you can make jig to hold your manifold
> and drill it for injectors, then either weld or epoxy in the bungs to hold
> the injectors.  Force Fuel Injection   http://force-efi.com/  sells these or
> you can pay to have Force make the conversion for you, about $600.  One
> thing to consider is that if you are going to use a solid fuel rail all of
> you injectors must be at the same angle and at the same height. If you look
> at the runners on a Performer, or any other dual plane intake, intake you'll
> notice that runners next to the head are various heights.  Consider a
> Edelbrock Torquer intake as all the runners next to the head are about the
> same height.  Even though the Torquer is a mid range RPM intake,  the EFI
> will really tame it down and you'll have some very strong low end power and
> throttle response.  About a year ago I read an article in a 4 wheel magazine
> that described using a Torquer converted to EFI on a rock crawling jeep.
> The bottom end power was very strong as the EFI does not depend on air flow
> to draw the fuel out of the carb.  If you use the Performer, consider making
> your ow fuel rails/lines out of some high pressure fuel line.  Another
> option is something I saw in the PAW catalog.  I think it was a Weiand
> intake that is made to be converted to EFI. It has the pads and the fuel
> rail towers cast in and would save you a bunch of time and money.  You'd
> still need to drill and weld the injector bungs.  Cost is about $250 from
> PAW.
>

I had to think about this for a minute.
If you are converting a performer manifold designed to work  wet, with a carb, to dry
PFI, will it still have the same torque characteristics?.

Neil


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 26 09:56:00 1999
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #603
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For the 97 5.8L try the Ford Motorsports catalogue, they have a kit for 
street rods that may be what you want.
                                        Mark

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Oct 26 10:49:59 1999
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 10:01:12 -0700
From: "Todd....!!" <atc347@c-com.net>
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Subject: Re: TBI, TPI, Radical Engines, (Todd)
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Have a question that may be a bit tangent to the main topic goal of this
list but here goes anywho...

Anyone know the TENSILE, SHEAR, and COMPRESSION strength of an average
forged connecting rod?  Say for a big block?

This is for a twin turbo B.B. EFI project.... for calculating the limit
of torque application to the rod, rod cap, and rod bolts before
failure...

Piston strength specs are already acquired.

Cyl wall strength (thickness and material makeup) is last on the list to
calc out.

Will be using minimum strength spec, of course, to be safe rather than
sorry when it comes down to the nitty gritty(REAL LIFE HAMMER TIME)...

Thnx for any input!!

Sincerely!,

Todd....
P.S. - FRED B., what caused your T.T. EFI B.B. Mopar B block(Stroker 400
- 4.34? bore X 3.75 stroke) to expire?  I don't remember the specifics? 
Was it just a lean condition causing critical predetonation leading to
holes in the pistons or cracked rings? or did ya actually throw(i.e.
break!?) a forged Mopar connecting rod? or what?

Just awonderin.....


-----------


Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
> Todd and others interested in long rambling messages :)
> 
> Well, you said "Money is the issue here", which I'd take to mean "not to
> expensive".  It all depends on what you consider expensive, and do you
> factor in your time to make it work.
> 
> Before I go through all this, I will say that its CHEAPER and FASTER to
> skip EFI and run your engine (at least as we discussed it) with a
> turbo'd predator carb, or a suitable well-adjusted Holley, etc.  Out of
> the box you produce power, its easy(er) to fabricate parts, and a
> screwdriver can adjust things to make it run right.
> 
> If you are dead set on EFI, you might consider the Holley or Edelbrock
> TBI system upon your own manifold, because mechanicall
