From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  1 10:21:50 2000
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From: "Wallace A. Gustafson" <cobra-racing@speedchoice.com>
To: <qmidgets@quartermidgets.com>, "EEC Mailing List" <eec@eelink.net>,
        "DIY_EFI Digest" <DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Cc: "Wallace A. Gustafson" <cobra-racing@speedchoice.com>
Subject: Happy New Year -- 2000
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 08:27:59 -0800
Organization: Cobra Racing & Engineering
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Happy New Year!!!

Hope everyone survived Y2K!!!

If anyone needs help, please feel free to contact me.

Wallace A. Gustafson -- a.k.a. "Cobra"
Cobra Racing & Engineering


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  1 15:05:30 2000
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  2 09:19:41 2000
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From: "Robert Eickhorst" <rleickho@home.com>
To: <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: EGOR Alive?
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 08:20:47 -0600
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I have been rummaging thru the archives and found a lot of messages about
the UEGO sensor.  Apparently Garfield was making available an interface
design(EGOR).  The last message I seem to find is from May of 1999.  Anybody
know what happened?
Bob Eickhorst
rleickho@home.com



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  2 13:31:39 2000
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Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 13:29:54 EST
Subject: 730/727
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Hi all, I'm going to start on a project of tpi on a v8. I've decided to use a 
730/ 727 ecm on a modifid in take, I thinking about a victor jr. or something 
of that nature. Anyway my question is this can I trigger the ecm directly 
from a hall effect, I don't wan't and spark control. And two what uses the 
727 is that the vett?? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Also what vehicles 
is any gm that use a 28 lbs/hr injector that should be what I need to feed my 
motor, by the math anyway! 

Thanks
-Brian

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  2 18:47:57 2000
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From: garwillis@msn.com (Garfield Willis)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: EGOR Alive?
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 15:51:53 -0800
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On Sun, 2 Jan 2000 08:20:47 -0600 "Robert Eickhorst" <rleickho@home.com>

>I have been rummaging thru the archives and found a lot of messages about
>the UEGO sensor.  Apparently Garfield was making available an interface
>design(EGOR).  The last message I seem to find is from May of 1999.  Anybody
>know what happened?
>Bob Eickhorst
>rleickho@home.com

Well, alas, we were hoping to make the announcement around Christmas
time (there must have been something later than May, tho), but our last
step of calibrations using "primary standard" gases was delayed, because
the special-order gases arrived late, and some oddball valves they
supplied on the bottles had to be adapted. Please stand by, and you'll
hear all about it here on DIY just as soon as we have completed this
last step. Real soon now.

Gar



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  2 19:54:50 2000
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Subject: Re: 730/727
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Persoannally I would use the timing ability of the gm ecm.  It is just so
much more tunable. Use a late dissy with remote coil and your all set.

Buick ttypes.gn used injectors can be had cheap and they are 28s.
Close at 30 are the syclone, and can used ones can be bought cheap.
I've gotten several sets of them both for $50 for 6, which leaves a couple
spares.

|Anyway my question is this can I trigger the ecm directly
| from a hall effect, I don't wan't and spark control. And two what uses the
| 727 is that the vett??

92  engine code T, R,
91                         8, D, R,
90                         8, V, T, R,
89                         V. S,
88                         W (thou can be 730)
(best info I have, but may have errors)
Grumpy

The 730 is a more widely used part.

 Any thoughts would be appreciated. Also what vehicles
| is any gm that use a 28 lbs/hr injector that should be what I need to feed
my
| motor, by the math anyway!
|
| Thanks
| -Brian
|


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  2 22:51:16 2000
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I have a similar question.  I plan on using the 730 on a project of 
mine but would like to use the stock distributor.  The dis has a hall 
setup without any advance.  How would I go about making it work 
with the computer so it runs the spark timming.  I was thinking 
about using some transistors for switching .

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  3 01:17:12 2000
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Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 17:16:58 +1100
From: Andrew Wakeling <kojab@ar.com.au>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Nissan Pulsar Exa 195 ECU Pinouts
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Hi Gang,
I'm converting my Nissan Pulsar Exa 1984, to the Delco system, and I'm
unsure about some of the pinouts of the old Nissan ECU. Here's what I've
got so far. If you can fill any in, or guide me somewhere, that would be
great. I'm a bit stuck concerning the Fuel Pump Relay.

Nissan Exa Pulsar 1984
Nissan 195 ECU Pinouts

1 N/C
2 GREY/BLUE
3 RED/WHITE
4 N/C
5 BLACK/BLUE
6 N/C
7 N/C
8 GREEN/YELLOW (DISTRIBUTOR)
9 BLACK/YELLOW
10 N/C
11 BROWN
12 N/C
13 N/C
14 N/C
15 N/C
16 N/C
17 GREEN/BLACK (DISTRIBUTOR)
18 GREEN/YELLOW
19 N/C
20 N/C
21 WHITE (DETONATION SENSOR)
22 BLUE/YELLOW
23 YELLOW/GREEN (COOLANT SENSOR)
24 N/C
25 GREEN/YELLOW
26 BLACK (AFM EARTH) (COOLANT SENSOR EARTH)
27 BLUE (12V POSITIVE)
28 BLACK (GROUND/EARTH)
29 WHITE/BLUE
30 YELLOW/GREEN (AFM)
31 YELLOW/RED (AFM)
32 N/C
33 YELLOW/BLUE (AFM)
34 N/C
35 BLUE (12V POSITIVE)
36 BLACK (GROUND/EARTH)

101 INJECTOR DRIVER (WHITE)
102 INJECTOR DRIVER (YELLOW)
103 N/C
104 INJECTOR DRIVER (WHITE/RED)
105 INJECTOR DRIVER (WHITE/BLUE)
106 N/C
107 INJECTOR GROUND
108 AIR REGULATOR (BLUE/RED)
109 INJECTOR GROUND
110 YELLOW/BLUE
111 N/C
112 INJECTOR GROUND
113 INJECTOR GROUND
114 N/C
115 N/C

Cheers,
Andrew Wakeling

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  3 13:25:53 2000
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Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 13:23:19 EST
Subject: Wanted M68HC11EVB- Evaluation Board
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, efi332@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu,
        gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Hi

I was wondering if anyone has a Motorola  M68HC11EVB they would like to sell?

Please contact me off list

Thanks

Jon

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From: "Nicholas Parker" <nrparker@xtra.co.nz>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: ECU's
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 12:14:47 +1300
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0027_01BF551A.F5EE2980
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Hi List,  =20
Is there an ECU out there somewhere that I can plumb into my '1600cc =
1987 Toyota MR2 Supercharged.
I would like MAP as opposed to AFM it currently has, 4 cyl sequential =
injection and possibly 2 or 4 coil ignition.  The main thing is =
availability of aftermarket utilities to modify / customize my ECU.
The current ECU has an 8051 derivative I'm told, and tables are onboard =
and so can't be modified.  I know this is possibly a stupid question but =
does anybody have or know how to obtain the code from this ECU.  I had =
to try, but Toyota weren't helpful.
I'm guessing with certainty that various lock bits on the ECU's 8051 MCU =
are set. Is there any 'secret' method for dumping the code out of such =
chips ?  How about executing external code (via /EA pin) that is a jump, =
then toggling the /EA pin at this point, having previously programmed =
into the end of the 8051 ROM (only if contents are FFh) a loop that =
dumps the contents ?

Nick.

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hi List,&nbsp;&nbsp; <BR></FONT><FONT size=3D2>Is =
there an ECU=20
out there somewhere that I can plumb into my '1600cc 1987 Toyota MR2=20
Supercharged.<BR>I would like MAP as opposed to AFM it currently has, 4 =
cyl=20
sequential injection and possibly 2 or 4 coil ignition.&nbsp; The main =
thing is=20
availability of aftermarket utilities to modify / customize my =
ECU.<BR>The=20
current ECU has an 8051 derivative I'm told, and tables are onboard and=20
so&nbsp;can't be modified.&nbsp; I know this is possibly a stupid =
question but=20
does anybody have or know how to obtain the code from this ECU.&nbsp; I =
had to=20
try, but Toyota weren't helpful.<BR>I'm guessing with certainty that =
various=20
lock bits on the ECU's 8051 MCU are set. Is there any 'secret' method =
for=20
dumping the code out of such chips ?&nbsp; How about executing external =
code=20
(via /EA pin) that is a jump, then toggling the /EA pin at this point, =
having=20
previously programmed into the end of the 8051 ROM (only if contents are =
FFh) a=20
loop that dumps the contents ?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Nick.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0027_01BF551A.F5EE2980--


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  4 04:40:57 2000
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From: "Roderick Warner" <Roderick_Warner@notes.teradyne.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Subject: Re: Lucas EFI ECU
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Is there anyone who has or knows where to get hold of a schmatic ( and ideally
some notes ) for the Lucas ECU as used on the Rover V8 engine. The ECU in
question is part # 83986A for the flap type air flow meter. Similarly if there
is experience of failure modes I would be very interested as I am in the process
of fitting injection to a previously carb'd engine and am suffering very rich
running , its ok when bliping the throttle. When I move the air flap( by hand)
it appears to have no effect on the running , though the voltages do change over
the specified range- hence I suspect the ECU. I need to get a scope onto the
pulses to see their duration and changes ( if any). Any thoughts please ?

               Rod Warner



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  4 08:43:26 2000
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Subject: 94/95 GM PCM + M6 tranny question
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Hi,
    Does anyone know if a 94/95 GM PCM knows what gear its M6
transmission is in?  If it does know, how does it get the information?
Does it send the gear # out its ALDL port?  Anyone know what the ALDL
stream looks like for a PCM with manual transmission??

So many questions, so few answers,
Any help will be appreciated,
Dave Hempstead
dave_hempstead@agilent.com


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  4 08:52:08 2000
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A little trivia on the 1600 MR2 it looks stunningly similar to the Lotus
twin cam engine of years ago. You might want to see if the lotus page has
any info. I could be way off on this but looking at the Lotus twin cam book
and an 1600 Toyota twin cam I got from the yard they seem a direct copy. My
$.02
                                                           Don

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [SMTP:DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]
> Sent:	Tuesday, January 04, 2000 4:00 AM
> To:	DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	DIY_EFI Digest V5 #1
> 
> 
> DIY_EFI Digest        Tuesday, January 4 2000        Volume 05 : Number
> 001
> 
> 
> 
> In this issue:
> 
> 	ECU's
> 	Re: Lucas EFI ECU
> 
> See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
> DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 12:14:47 +1300
> From: "Nicholas Parker" <nrparker@xtra.co.nz>
> Subject: ECU's
> 
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> 
> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01BF551A.F5EE2980
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> 	charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> 
> Hi List,  =20
> Is there an ECU out there somewhere that I can plumb into my '1600cc =
> 1987 Toyota MR2 Supercharged.
> I would like MAP as opposed to AFM it currently has, 4 cyl sequential =
> injection and possibly 2 or 4 coil ignition.  The main thing is =
> availability of aftermarket utilities to modify / customize my ECU.
> The current ECU has an 8051 derivative I'm told, and tables are onboard =
> and so can't be modified.  I know this is possibly a stupid question but =
> does anybody have or know how to obtain the code from this ECU.  I had =
> to try, but Toyota weren't helpful.
> I'm guessing with certainty that various lock bits on the ECU's 8051 MCU =
> are set. Is there any 'secret' method for dumping the code out of such =
> chips ?  How about executing external code (via /EA pin) that is a jump, =
> then toggling the /EA pin at this point, having previously programmed =
> into the end of the 8051 ROM (only if contents are FFh) a loop that =
> dumps the contents ?
> 
> Nick.
> 
> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01BF551A.F5EE2980
> Content-Type: text/html;
> 	charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> 
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> <HTML><HEAD>
> <META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
> http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
> <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
> <STYLE></STYLE>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hi List,&nbsp;&nbsp; <BR></FONT><FONT size=3D2>Is =
> there an ECU=20
> out there somewhere that I can plumb into my '1600cc 1987 Toyota MR2=20
> Supercharged.<BR>I would like MAP as opposed to AFM it currently has, 4 =
> cyl=20
> sequential injection and possibly 2 or 4 coil ignition.&nbsp; The main =
> thing is=20
> availability of aftermarket utilities to modify / customize my =
> ECU.<BR>The=20
> current ECU has an 8051 derivative I'm told, and tables are onboard and=20
> so&nbsp;can't be modified.&nbsp; I know this is possibly a stupid =
> question but=20
> does anybody have or know how to obtain the code from this ECU.&nbsp; I =
> had to=20
> try, but Toyota weren't helpful.<BR>I'm guessing with certainty that =
> various=20
> lock bits on the ECU's 8051 MCU are set. Is there any 'secret' method =
> for=20
> dumping the code out of such chips ?&nbsp; How about executing external =
> code=20
> (via /EA pin) that is a jump, then toggling the /EA pin at this point, =
> having=20
> previously programmed into the end of the 8051 ROM (only if contents are =
> FFh) a=20
> loop that dumps the contents ?</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Nick.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
> 
> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01BF551A.F5EE2980--
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 18:36:41 +0000
> From: "Roderick Warner" <Roderick_Warner@notes.teradyne.com>
> Subject: Re: Lucas EFI ECU
> 
> Is there anyone who has or knows where to get hold of a schmatic ( and
> ideally
> some notes ) for the Lucas ECU as used on the Rover V8 engine. The ECU in
> question is part # 83986A for the flap type air flow meter. Similarly if
> there
> is experience of failure modes I would be very interested as I am in the
> process
> of fitting injection to a previously carb'd engine and am suffering very
> rich
> running , its ok when bliping the throttle. When I move the air flap( by
> hand)
> it appears to have no effect on the running , though the voltages do
> change over
> the specified range- hence I suspect the ECU. I need to get a scope onto
> the
> pulses to see their duration and changes ( if any). Any thoughts please ?
> 
>                Rod Warner
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of DIY_EFI Digest V5 #1
> ***************************
> 
> To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command:
> 
>     subscribe diy_efi-digest
> 
> in the body of a message to "Majordomo@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu".  
> 
> A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to
> subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command
>  above with "diy_efi".

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  4 10:21:35 2000
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From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: "gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu" <gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
cc: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 94/95 GM PCM + M6 tranny question
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On Tue, 4 Jan 2000, Dave Hempstead wrote:

> Hi,
>     Does anyone know if a 94/95 GM PCM knows what gear its M6
> transmission is in?  If it does know, how does it get the information?
> Does it send the gear # out its ALDL port?  Anyone know what the ALDL
> stream looks like for a PCM with manual transmission??
> 

It has to know what gear it is in.  The computer also runs the skip
shift hardware.    You might check the A4 code you have and see if you
can find the skip shift code.   It basically checks to see if you are
in 1st gear and below a certain speed, and then activates some
hardware to force a shift to 4th.   The code on the 93 is around EDB0
and D24B, if there is similar code in the A4 bin you have then it is
very likely that that bin with a few minor data changes is also used
on a M6.  From everything I can tell the 93 uses the same "code" but
slightly different data.   The "CARS" part is the CAGS or skip shift
stuff.


				Roger


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  4 12:16:29 2000
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From: Eric Clark <eclark@hoser.com>
To: "gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu" <gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
cc: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 94/95 GM PCM + M6 tranny question
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Andrew Mattei's webpage has both the A4 and M6 stream spec.

Here is the M6 spec.
http://www.mindspring.com/%7Eamattei/a273.doc


On Tue, 4 Jan 2000, Dave Hempstead wrote:

> Hi,
>     Does anyone know if a 94/95 GM PCM knows what gear its M6
> transmission is in?  If it does know, how does it get the information?
> Does it send the gear # out its ALDL port?  Anyone know what the ALDL
> stream looks like for a PCM with manual transmission??
> 
> So many questions, so few answers,
> Any help will be appreciated,
> Dave Hempstead
> dave_hempstead@agilent.com
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  4 14:11:03 2000
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Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 14:10:13 EST
Subject: How to read E6 eeprom while programming ?
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Hi

I have some older E6's that use the 68HC811E2 micro. I was wondering if there 
is a way to see the addresses where the dos software loads setup parameters 
and fuel/spark maps in the 2K on chip eeprom.

I was thinking of making a simple vb program to download custom setup to 
eeprom. I need to know what info goes to what eeprom address.

Does anyone know how I can do this?

Thanks

Jon

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  4 15:27:01 2000
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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
        DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #2
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 12:24:07 -0800 
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Hi, I am not quite sure how to send me items to the list but anyway:

does anyone have a working '747 and possibly a wiring harness for sale ?

thanks, Ted

-----Original Message-----
From: DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
[mailto:DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 12:00 PM
To: DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #2



DIY_EFI Digest        Tuesday, January 4 2000        Volume 05 : Number 002



In this issue:

	94/95 GM PCM + M6 tranny question
	RE: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #1
	Re: 94/95 GM PCM + M6 tranny question
	Re: 94/95 GM PCM + M6 tranny question
	How to read E6 eeprom while programming ?

See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 08:43:21 -0500
From: Dave Hempstead <dave_hempstead@agilent.com>
Subject: 94/95 GM PCM + M6 tranny question

Hi,
    Does anyone know if a 94/95 GM PCM knows what gear its M6
transmission is in?  If it does know, how does it get the information?
Does it send the gear # out its ALDL port?  Anyone know what the ALDL
stream looks like for a PCM with manual transmission??

So many questions, so few answers,
Any help will be appreciated,
Dave Hempstead
dave_hempstead@agilent.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 07:51:32 -0600 
From: Don.F.Broadus@ucm.com
Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #1

A little trivia on the 1600 MR2 it looks stunningly similar to the Lotus
twin cam engine of years ago. You might want to see if the lotus page has
any info. I could be way off on this but looking at the Lotus twin cam book
and an 1600 Toyota twin cam I got from the yard they seem a direct copy. My
$.02
                                                           Don

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [SMTP:DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]
> Sent:	Tuesday, January 04, 2000 4:00 AM
> To:	DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	DIY_EFI Digest V5 #1
> 
> 
> DIY_EFI Digest        Tuesday, January 4 2000        Volume 05 : Number
> 001
> 
> 
> 
> In this issue:
> 
> 	ECU's
> 	Re: Lucas EFI ECU
> 
> See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
> DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 12:14:47 +1300
> From: "Nicholas Parker" <nrparker@xtra.co.nz>
> Subject: ECU's
> 
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> 
> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01BF551A.F5EE2980
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> 	charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> 
> Hi List,  =20
> Is there an ECU out there somewhere that I can plumb into my '1600cc =
> 1987 Toyota MR2 Supercharged.
> I would like MAP as opposed to AFM it currently has, 4 cyl sequential =
> injection and possibly 2 or 4 coil ignition.  The main thing is =
> availability of aftermarket utilities to modify / customize my ECU.
> The current ECU has an 8051 derivative I'm told, and tables are onboard =
> and so can't be modified.  I know this is possibly a stupid question but =
> does anybody have or know how to obtain the code from this ECU.  I had =
> to try, but Toyota weren't helpful.
> I'm guessing with certainty that various lock bits on the ECU's 8051 MCU =
> are set. Is there any 'secret' method for dumping the code out of such =
> chips ?  How about executing external code (via /EA pin) that is a jump, =
> then toggling the /EA pin at this point, having previously programmed =
> into the end of the 8051 ROM (only if contents are FFh) a loop that =
> dumps the contents ?
> 
> Nick.
> 
> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01BF551A.F5EE2980
> Content-Type: text/html;
> 	charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> 
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> <HTML><HEAD>
> <META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
> http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
> <META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
> <STYLE></STYLE>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hi List,&nbsp;&nbsp; <BR></FONT><FONT size=3D2>Is =
> there an ECU=20
> out there somewhere that I can plumb into my '1600cc 1987 Toyota MR2=20
> Supercharged.<BR>I would like MAP as opposed to AFM it currently has, 4 =
> cyl=20
> sequential injection and possibly 2 or 4 coil ignition.&nbsp; The main =
> thing is=20
> availability of aftermarket utilities to modify / customize my =
> ECU.<BR>The=20
> current ECU has an 8051 derivative I'm told, and tables are onboard and=20
> so&nbsp;can't be modified.&nbsp; I know this is possibly a stupid =
> question but=20
> does anybody have or know how to obtain the code from this ECU.&nbsp; I =
> had to=20
> try, but Toyota weren't helpful.<BR>I'm guessing with certainty that =
> various=20
> lock bits on the ECU's 8051 MCU are set. Is there any 'secret' method =
> for=20
> dumping the code out of such chips ?&nbsp; How about executing external =
> code=20
> (via /EA pin) that is a jump, then toggling the /EA pin at this point, =
> having=20
> previously programmed into the end of the 8051 ROM (only if contents are =
> FFh) a=20
> loop that dumps the contents ?</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
> <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Nick.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
> 
> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01BF551A.F5EE2980--
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 18:36:41 +0000
> From: "Roderick Warner" <Roderick_Warner@notes.teradyne.com>
> Subject: Re: Lucas EFI ECU
> 
> Is there anyone who has or knows where to get hold of a schmatic ( and
> ideally
> some notes ) for the Lucas ECU as used on the Rover V8 engine. The ECU in
> question is part # 83986A for the flap type air flow meter. Similarly if
> there
> is experience of failure modes I would be very interested as I am in the
> process
> of fitting injection to a previously carb'd engine and am suffering very
> rich
> running , its ok when bliping the throttle. When I move the air flap( by
> hand)
> it appears to have no effect on the running , though the voltages do
> change over
> the specified range- hence I suspect the ECU. I need to get a scope onto
> the
> pulses to see their duration and changes ( if any). Any thoughts please ?
> 
>                Rod Warner
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of DIY_EFI Digest V5 #1
> ***************************
> 
> To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command:
> 
>     subscribe diy_efi-digest
> 
> in the body of a message to "Majordomo@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu".  
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>  above with "diy_efi".

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 09:21:32 -0600 (CST)
From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
Subject: Re: 94/95 GM PCM + M6 tranny question

On Tue, 4 Jan 2000, Dave Hempstead wrote:

> Hi,
>     Does anyone know if a 94/95 GM PCM knows what gear its M6
> transmission is in?  If it does know, how does it get the information?
> Does it send the gear # out its ALDL port?  Anyone know what the ALDL
> stream looks like for a PCM with manual transmission??
> 

It has to know what gear it is in.  The computer also runs the skip
shift hardware.    You might check the A4 code you have and see if you
can find the skip shift code.   It basically checks to see if you are
in 1st gear and below a certain speed, and then activates some
hardware to force a shift to 4th.   The code on the 93 is around EDB0
and D24B, if there is similar code in the A4 bin you have then it is
very likely that that bin with a few minor data changes is also used
on a M6.  From everything I can tell the 93 uses the same "code" but
slightly different data.   The "CARS" part is the CAGS or skip shift
stuff.


				Roger

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 11:16:25 -0600 (CST)
From: Eric Clark <eclark@hoser.com>
Subject: Re: 94/95 GM PCM + M6 tranny question

Andrew Mattei's webpage has both the A4 and M6 stream spec.

Here is the M6 spec.
http://www.mindspring.com/%7Eamattei/a273.doc


On Tue, 4 Jan 2000, Dave Hempstead wrote:

> Hi,
>     Does anyone know if a 94/95 GM PCM knows what gear its M6
> transmission is in?  If it does know, how does it get the information?
> Does it send the gear # out its ALDL port?  Anyone know what the ALDL
> stream looks like for a PCM with manual transmission??
> 
> So many questions, so few answers,
> Any help will be appreciated,
> Dave Hempstead
> dave_hempstead@agilent.com
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 14:10:13 EST
From: PHXSYS@aol.com
Subject: How to read E6 eeprom while programming ?

Hi

I have some older E6's that use the 68HC811E2 micro. I was wondering if
there 
is a way to see the addresses where the dos software loads setup parameters 
and fuel/spark maps in the 2K on chip eeprom.

I was thinking of making a simple vb program to download custom setup to 
eeprom. I need to know what info goes to what eeprom address.

Does anyone know how I can do this?

Thanks

Jon

------------------------------

End of DIY_EFI Digest V5 #2
***************************

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  4 16:10:03 2000
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remove


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  4 22:10:40 2000
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Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 22:10:00 EST
Subject: Question on a '88 ALDL
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Searched though the archives and found some stuff on ALDL communicating with 
a PC (i.e., RS232 schematics, data reading programs).  

I've got it to work (somewhat) but I'm only seeing FC or 00 (hex numbers).  
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I'm looking at an '88 GMC with a 350 TBI.

Mike

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan  5 04:00:50 2000
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From: "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: 1600 MR2 trivia
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 08:57:04 -0000
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Lotus did development work for the Toyota 4A-GE motor (1.6 MR2), hence the
similarity... Why mess with something that works so well??

Rich.

> A little trivia on the 1600 MR2 it looks stunningly similar to the Lotus
> twin cam engine of years ago. You might want to see if the lotus page has
> any info. I could be way off on this but looking at the Lotus
> twin cam book
> and an 1600 Toyota twin cam I got from the yard they seem a
> direct copy. My
> $.02
>


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Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 09:50:05 -0500
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
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Subject: Re: Ted's back, 7747 info
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Stowe, Ted-SEA wrote:

> 
> Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 12:24:07 -0800
> From: "Stowe, Ted-SEA" <StowT@PerkinsCoie.com>
> Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #2
> 
> Hi, I am not quite sure how to send me items to the list but anyway:
> 
> does anyone have a working '747 and possibly a wiring harness for sale ?
> 
> thanks, Ted
> 
Hi, Ted.  Glad you're back.  Ever go any farther with the DIS/749
swap?
I might have a 7747, I'll have to check.  Is this something you need
right away?
Shannen


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From: "Stowe, Ted-SEA" <StowT@PerkinsCoie.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #4
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 15:59:26 -0800 
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Hi, thanks, no nothing I'm in urgent need of.

I went from the Chevy 2.3 tbi system to a bosch jettronic-lh from a Volvo
240dl. I machined the Volvo distributor down to fit in my mgb, and used the
Volvo ignition computer/harness. I never permanently did much with the rest,
though I mounted all of the parts/sensors, return fuel line, etc, due to the
overall crummy intake design of the mgb. either the manifolds I constructed
were too long for the mgb engine bay, (uh duh use a tape measure first), or
there was some issue.  I would like to find a method to 'add' 2 injectors to
an existing aluminium, or maybe a cast iron intake. I don't see much around
for this, but I may be looking in the wrong place. I'd rather not have a
fuel rail as the mounting sort of precludes that.

the mgb has a siaimesed intake design. 

what happened to the normal way of sending/getting emails from this list ? I
miss reading them a lot.



thanks, Ted

-----Original Message-----
From: DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
[mailto:DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2000 12:00 PM
To: DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #4



DIY_EFI Digest       Wednesday, January 5 2000       Volume 05 : Number 004



In this issue:

	Re: Ted's back, 7747 info

See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 09:50:05 -0500
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
Subject: Re: Ted's back, 7747 info

Stowe, Ted-SEA wrote:

> 
> Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 12:24:07 -0800
> From: "Stowe, Ted-SEA" <StowT@PerkinsCoie.com>
> Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #2
> 
> Hi, I am not quite sure how to send me items to the list but anyway:
> 
> does anyone have a working '747 and possibly a wiring harness for sale ?
> 
> thanks, Ted
> 
Hi, Ted.  Glad you're back.  Ever go any farther with the DIS/749
swap?
I might have a 7747, I'll have to check.  Is this something you need
right away?
Shannen

------------------------------

End of DIY_EFI Digest V5 #4
***************************

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    subscribe diy_efi-digest

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan  6 08:06:14 2000
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Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 05:06:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #5:re MGB manifold
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I have a similar problem, siamesed intake ports on my
Spitfire. I am going to use 4 injectors installed on
the stock manifold. I will mill 4 holes, at very
shallow angles, two on each tube, as close to the head
mating surface as possible. The holes will be
'splayed' when viewed from the top, such that each
injector will fire accross the centerline of the tube
and into the intake port on the opposite side. The
exact angles and position are chosen to hit as much of
the intake valve and pocket, and avoid as much of the
manifold and port walls as possible (it helped to have
an extra cylinder head to work with). I will fit
thinwall steel tubes into these holes (press fit if I
can, JB Weld if too loose), and trim the inside flush
with the manifold walls. This to provide a mounting
boss and a smooth and consistent sealing surface for
the lower injector O-rings. Splayed mounting requires
fuel supply via individual fittings. I'm thinking of
using brass T fittings (from brake systems), center
hole reamed to fit upper O-ring, connected with
aeroquip hoses or flared steel tubing.

When retro-fitting injectors, we cannot always mount
the them as closely to the valve pocket as we need.
Thus, a narrow spray pattern may be preferred, to keep
from wetting the walls.

One thing that I have not seen on any of the lists is
the characterization of spray patterns for different
injectors. Everything is oriented towards flow rates,
and impedance. The archive article on building an
injector flow bench addresses inspection of the spray
patterns, but I have not seen any info that would
allow you to determine what pattern an injector has
from it's part number or application. 

Surely that information is available somewhere?

Just my .02, good luck with your project!

Carter Shore

.....
> there was some issue.  I would like to find a method
> to 'add' 2 injectors to
> an existing aluminium, or maybe a cast iron intake.
> I don't see much around
> for this, but I may be looking in the wrong place.
> I'd rather not have a
> fuel rail as the mounting sort of precludes that.
> 
> the mgb has a siaimesed intake design. 
> 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

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	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #6
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the spitfire engine has siamesed ports too ? hmm.

I thought that 2 larger injectors would stand a better chance than trying to
aim 4 individual ones in an mgb head, the angle to aim each of them at the
back of the intake valve is very steep, making the whole assembly pretty
unwieldy, and making a fuel rail for the 4 individual bosch injectors would
be pretty hard as it would be circular instead of flat. So I considered 2
larger injectors aimed at the bottom of each of the two intake ports as a
more do-able idea.

I actually chopped up a volvo efi intake to get the  aluminum mounting
bosses but the distance to the head is very short. It would take an aluminum
welding artist to properly do it in my case. I might be going about this the
hard way, someone might sell injectors and easy to add injector bosses. I
did find someone who had a bolt-on tbi 'carb' that replaced the strombert
CD, but they wanted 500+ for it, which is too high for me.

thanks, Ted

-----Original Message-----
From: DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
[mailto:DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]
Sent: Thursday, January 06, 2000 12:00 PM
To: DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #6



DIY_EFI Digest        Thursday, January 6 2000        Volume 05 : Number 006



In this issue:

	Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #5:re MGB manifold

See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 05:06:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #5:re MGB manifold

I have a similar problem, siamesed intake ports on my
Spitfire. I am going to use 4 injectors installed on
the stock manifold. I will mill 4 holes, at very
shallow angles, two on each tube, as close to the head
mating surface as possible. The holes will be
'splayed' when viewed from the top, such that each
injector will fire accross the centerline of the tube
and into the intake port on the opposite side. The
exact angles and position are chosen to hit as much of
the intake valve and pocket, and avoid as much of the
manifold and port walls as possible (it helped to have
an extra cylinder head to work with). I will fit
thinwall steel tubes into these holes (press fit if I
can, JB Weld if too loose), and trim the inside flush
with the manifold walls. This to provide a mounting
boss and a smooth and consistent sealing surface for
the lower injector O-rings. Splayed mounting requires
fuel supply via individual fittings. I'm thinking of
using brass T fittings (from brake systems), center
hole reamed to fit upper O-ring, connected with
aeroquip hoses or flared steel tubing.

When retro-fitting injectors, we cannot always mount
the them as closely to the valve pocket as we need.
Thus, a narrow spray pattern may be preferred, to keep
from wetting the walls.

One thing that I have not seen on any of the lists is
the characterization of spray patterns for different
injectors. Everything is oriented towards flow rates,
and impedance. The archive article on building an
injector flow bench addresses inspection of the spray
patterns, but I have not seen any info that would
allow you to determine what pattern an injector has
from it's part number or application. 

Surely that information is available somewhere?

Just my .02, good luck with your project!

Carter Shore

.....
> there was some issue.  I would like to find a method
> to 'add' 2 injectors to
> an existing aluminium, or maybe a cast iron intake.
> I don't see much around
> for this, but I may be looking in the wrong place.
> I'd rather not have a
> fuel rail as the mounting sort of precludes that.
> 
> the mgb has a siaimesed intake design. 
> 

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------------------------------

End of DIY_EFI Digest V5 #6
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan  6 16:39:15 2000
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #6
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Ya'all, just might be over thinking this.  Unless your doing a true SEFI,
your gonna be just spraying fuel around the manifold anyway.  Ya, be nice to
get fuel in about the right area, but, I don't think your ever going to see
a real difference in what your looking at.
  Might even be better using a TBI setup since you have more injector
firings to atomize the fuel and get it splashing around better (<g>).
Grumpy
  Doc even agrees..


| the spitfire engine has siamesed ports too ? hmm.

| I thought that 2 larger injectors would stand a better chance than trying
to
| aim 4 individual ones in an mgb head, the angle to aim each of them at the
| back of the intake valve is very steep, making the whole assembly pretty
| unwieldy, and making a fuel rail for the 4 individual bosch injectors
would
| be pretty hard as it would be circular instead of flat. So I considered 2
| larger injectors aimed at the bottom of each of the two intake ports as a
| more do-able idea.
|


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan  6 21:04:04 2000
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From: dennis <spoolboy@autospeed.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: injector mounting
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You guys might want to take a close look at the injector setup on this page, as far as fuel supply is concerned. A cool site in-general. Not many MG's though.

http://www.blowerdriveservice.com/phaseI.htm

dennis

>I have a similar problem, siamesed intake ports on my
>Spitfire. I am going to use 4 injectors installed on
>the stock manifold. I will mill 4 holes, at very
>shallow angles, two on each tube, as close to the head
>mating surface as possible. The holes will be
>'splayed' when viewed from the top, such that each
>injector will fire accross the centerline of the tube
>and into the intake port on the opposite side. The
>exact angles and position are chosen to hit as much of
>the intake valve and pocket, and avoid as much of the
>manifold and port walls as possible (it helped to have
>an extra cylinder head to work with). I will fit
>thinwall steel tubes into these holes (press fit if I
>can, JB Weld if too loose), and trim the inside flush
>with the manifold walls. This to provide a mounting
>boss and a smooth and consistent sealing surface for
>the lower injector O-rings. Splayed mounting requires
>fuel supply via individual fittings. I'm thinking of
>using brass T fittings (from brake systems), center
>hole reamed to fit upper O-ring, connected with
>aeroquip hoses or flared steel tubing.
>
>When retro-fitting injectors, we cannot always mount
>the them as closely to the valve pocket as we need.
>Thus, a narrow spray pattern may be preferred, to keep
>from wetting the walls.
>
>One thing that I have not seen on any of the lists is
>the characterization of spray patterns for different
>injectors. Everything is oriented towards flow rates,
>and impedance. The archive article on building an
>injector flow bench addresses inspection of the spray
>patterns, but I have not seen any info that would
>allow you to determine what pattern an injector has
>from it's part number or application. 
>
>Surely that information is available somewhere?
>
>Just my .02, good luck with your project!
>
>Carter Shore
>
>.....
>> there was some issue.  I would like to find a method
>> to 'add' 2 injectors to
>> an existing aluminium, or maybe a cast iron intake.
>> I don't see much around
>> for this, but I may be looking in the wrong place.
>> I'd rather not have a
>> fuel rail as the mounting sort of precludes that.
>> 
>> the mgb has a siaimesed intake design. 
>> 


_____________________________________________________________
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http://www.everyone.net
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From: dennis <spoolboy@autospeed.com>
To: "diyefi diyefi" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 99 Dakota ECM
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Hello.

I have a '99 Dodge Dakota. I was wondering what is involved in getting myself setup to modify the fuel/ignition maps in the ecm. I am sort-of dumb about this part of automotive tuning but experienced with most others. Feel free to talk down to me technically, I would prefer that to technical terms I have never heard of. Automotive wise I know my stuff, but with processors and electronic hardware I don't know much.
I want to figure out a way to do this. I know it can be done, as is evidenced by the Hypertech Power Programmer that they make for my truck. I want something adjustable or I would just buy one of these.
I will be making some drastic changes in volumetric efficiency.
Would this require an emulator?

Hope someone can help me out, thanks in advance.

dennis

_____________________________________________________________
AutoSpeed - The World's Best High Performance Online Magazine
http://www.autospeed.com

From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  7 02:58:34 2000
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Subject: 'MAP' and Fueling
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 09:58:24 +0200 
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Hi,

I'm new to the group and have a few (probably) simple questions. (Sorry it's
a long Email)

What is the relationship between MAP and MAF. RPM and Air Temp are factors
in converting the MAP sensor output to match the MAF. What I am trying to do
is understand what the differences between MAP and MAF are.

I have a Toyota Supra Twin Turbo and they come with both MAF and MAP sensor
systems for the export and Japanese spec cars. These cars have a fuel cut
which operates as soon as the manifold pressure exceeds a preset limit of
13psi. I have designed a voltage hold circuit which clamps the output of the
sensor at 13psi (about 4.3V) and hence fools the ECU of the car into
thinking it is running much lower boost from the turbos.

The problem is that I am unsure if this will affect the fueling
charateristcis of the car if I have modified the MAP input the ECU, above
the 13psi limit. I may be having fueling problems but am unsure what I may
have done.

Thanks for the reply from Ric Rainbolt regarding the issue. I have
faithfully added his Email below.

*****P.Betts***********
The US Surpa site say modifying the MAP sensor output with a fuel cut
controller is a bad idea for the Jap spec MAP sensor cars but I agree with
Rob below. As the Supra runs rich at high boost the inability of the ECU to
correctly calculate the fueling above fuel-cut, because one of the inputs is
static, is small up to a point.

The next question is at what point (manifold pressure) does the MkIV (and
MkIII for interest) start to lean out? This is probably why water injection
makes such a difference because the fuel that is available is cooler and
thus able to deliver power to the engine more efficiently. (More
effieciently burnt)
(Time to get a second oxygen sensor or monitor the current one)

So as a summary.....

The Jap spec Supra **CALCULATES** the Mass Air Flow going into the engine
using the parameters described below, one being the Manifold Air Pressure
(MAP).
 
The Export (UK) Supra directly senses the MAF using some form of
butteryfly/flap type arrangement (I think) and uses this for fueling
calculations along with RPM (I suppose) The MAP sensor on the Export models
is only used to detect engine vacuum and pressure and doesn't directly
affect fueling.

Thoughts/Corrections anyone? Any guidance greatfully received.

Thanks
Pete


*****R.Rainbolt*************************************************
The fuel cut is used on both the Turbo Supra and Turbo MR2.  Since both 
cars run relatively rich at full (stock) boost, it is "safe" to use such a 
circuit to prevent the computer from hitting the fuel cut function, but 
only up to a certain amount of boost.  For the MR2, the FCD cuts in at 11 
PSI, but it is safe to run the car up to about 15-16 PSI, without fuel 
system mods.

To be safe, the best thing you can do is get an extra Oxygen Sensor 
installed and connected to a dash meter (HKS, Summit, Greddy, etc.)  If the 
FCD is set to 13 PSI, I would not go over 16-17 PSI. Make sure the car 
never turns from rich to lean under full power.

MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) is directly related to MAF (Manifold Air Flow). 
 The amount of air moving into an engine is refferred to as Mass Air Flow 
(MAF).  MAF is a function of 3 major factors (ignoring temp and humidity 
for a moment).  They are: Throttle Position (TPS), Engine Speed (RPM) and 
Volumetric Efficiency (VE).  VE is a complex component, being different 
values at different RPM and TPS levels.  Systems that only use TPS and MAP 
are referred to as Speed-Density (SD) systems.  They "approximate" the 
amount of air the engine is using computing MAF from the three above 
mentioned components.

Toyota and other manufacturers use MAF and MAP sensors, even though it is 
not absolutely necessary to have both. Either will work, as long as TPS and 
other factors are known.  On the MR2 and Supra, HKS sells a kit that 
actually lets you eliminate the MAF sensor.  The idea is to allow for 
better intake breathing and better throttle response.

Ric Rainbolt

**************************************************************************

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From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #7:injector mounting
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Ted: 
Sure 2 injectors would work, though if adapting a 4
injector setup (what's the Volvo?) you'd have to
combine the drive pulses, easy if saturated open
collector drivers, maybe more complex if peak/hold.
Still maybe a problem with tradeoff between minimum
pulsewidth at idle vs. WOT flow.
Packaging retro-fit is always a problem, but splayed
mount may make it easier. Don't really need a mill,
good sharp drill with sturdy fabricated guide fixture
would do, then use a reamer to get size. 
I'm not a welding artisan, but I can cut and file
aluminum pieces, then glue them up for a prototype
(JB Weld to the rescue!)

Grump:
I'm adapting a bone stock Ford EEC-IV (hiss!!!) SEFI.
Easier to use 4 inj, I'll just have to finagle the ROM
tables. I originally wanted to use the efi332 setup,
but had to drop back. Still an option for the future,
as this is my first cut on a continuing project.
As for wall wetting, archives and list all point to
this as an issue with emissions, and this is a street
car that may be called on to pass the test. If I can
eliminate or minimize it up-front by design, then just
one less problem to deal with. 

As always folks, thanks for advice, comments,
critique.

Carter



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From: "Stowe, Ted-SEA" <StowT@PerkinsCoie.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: injector mounting
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 12:33:50 -0800 
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hi, the Volvo jet-LH has 4 Bosch injectors. but they were all batch fired at
one time. (common firing wiring).

does anyone know where I could get any tools for this idea ? I had read of
someone that sold a drill guide ? for a specific injector type. I was
thinking of using lots of jbweld, but I got advised that it shouldn't be
though of as a permanent cure. I guess I am stuck at the point of what makes
a good design. It is a little tough to have the correct 'crossfire' angle
and still leave a good airflow (not too much hanging out inside the intake).
and work out a proper splayed fuel layout for the injectors. I have quite a
collection of mgb intake manifolds now, one cast iron, etc. any thoughts
would be appreciated.

thanks, Ted

-----Original Message-----
From: DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
[mailto:DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2000 12:00 PM
To: DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #8



DIY_EFI Digest         Friday, January 7 2000         Volume 05 : Number 008



In this issue:

	Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #7:injector mounting

See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 05:18:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #7:injector mounting

Ted: 
Sure 2 injectors would work, though if adapting a 4
injector setup (what's the Volvo?) you'd have to
combine the drive pulses, easy if saturated open
collector drivers, maybe more complex if peak/hold.
Still maybe a problem with tradeoff between minimum
pulsewidth at idle vs. WOT flow.
Packaging retro-fit is always a problem, but splayed
mount may make it easier. Don't really need a mill,
good sharp drill with sturdy fabricated guide fixture
would do, then use a reamer to get size. 
I'm not a welding artisan, but I can cut and file
aluminum pieces, then glue them up for a prototype
(JB Weld to the rescue!)

Grump:
I'm adapting a bone stock Ford EEC-IV (hiss!!!) SEFI.
Easier to use 4 inj, I'll just have to finagle the ROM
tables. I originally wanted to use the efi332 setup,
but had to drop back. Still an option for the future,
as this is my first cut on a continuing project.
As for wall wetting, archives and list all point to
this as an issue with emissions, and this is a street
car that may be called on to pass the test. If I can
eliminate or minimize it up-front by design, then just
one less problem to deal with. 

As always folks, thanks for advice, comments,
critique.

Carter



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End of DIY_EFI Digest V5 #8
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  7 15:34:33 2000
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From: "Scott Christensen" <scottchristensen@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Check this out
Date: Fri, 07 Jan 2000 14:34:01 CST
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Check this out:

http://www.leburg.freeserve.co.uk

Click on the picture at the bottom to see big pic of
dual electronic ignition combo alternator setup.

Those ford "Zetec quad EHT coils" are nifty.

Anyone seen them before?

-scott

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  7 17:08:32 2000
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From: "Clare Snyder" <clare@snyder.on.ca>
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Subject: Re: Volvo/MG/Spit EFI
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 17:10:03 -0500
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>
> Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 12:58:03 -0800
> From: "Stowe, Ted-SEA" <StowT@PerkinsCoie.com>
> Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #6
>
> the spitfire engine has siamesed ports too ? hmm.
>
> I thought that 2 larger injectors would stand a better chance than trying
to
> aim 4 individual ones in an mgb head, the angle to aim each of them at the
> back of the intake valve is very steep, making the whole assembly pretty
> unwieldy, and making a fuel rail for the 4 individual bosch injectors
would
> be pretty hard as it would be circular instead of flat. So I considered 2
> larger injectors aimed at the bottom of each of the two intake ports as a
> more do-able idea.
>
> I actually chopped up a volvo efi intake to get the  aluminum mounting
> bosses but the distance to the head is very short. It would take an
aluminum
> welding artist to properly do it in my case. I might be going about this
the
> hard way, someone might sell injectors and easy to add injector bosses. I
> did find someone who had a bolt-on tbi 'carb' that replaced the strombert
> CD, but they wanted 500+ for it, which is too high for me.
>
> thanks, Ted

How about drilling the manifold runners on the horizontal plane so the
injectors squirt straight into the port. The holes would be tangential to
the curve of the runner.
You need to fire them FFRRFFRRFFRR. for 1342 firing order
OR
put 2 injectors in the top, and two in the bottom with 2 rails. Put them in
about 15 degrees off horizontal each way


From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  7 21:16:53 2000
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From: dennis <spoolboy@autospeed.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: injector bungs?
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I work at an aircraft repair facility. We keep some 5/8x.035 aluminum tubing in stock to flare and make up AN tubing with. A standard port injector w/oring slips right into this stuff with just about the right tightness compared to the intakes I have stabbed with injectors. You can probably get similar tubing locally from a metal supply house. 
I am gonna cut some short sections and try to use them for injector mounting on a custom intake I am building for a Chrysler 2.2. I plan on drilling an angled hole, then having these epoxied in, or maybe welded if they aren't too thin for my local welder to weld. I then plan on grinding them flush on the inside of the runner. This idea combined with those cool AN style individual fuel lines sold by www.blowerdriveservice.com might get it done for you.
Then you just have to hold the injectors in the hole. I don't know what country you are in, but in USA Chrysler used a multiport style injector in their pre-85 tbi 2.2s. The system they used to hold the injector in, used a snap ring and a rubber grommet. If you can get this stuff it might work. If not you can probably copy this Idea with a properly sized grommet, a washer, and a snap ring--plus a little creativity. The washer goes on first. The grommet fits around the injector about halfway up, in the recess of the side of the injector body. The grommet could probably be omitted, it just cushions the injector a bit. The snap ring goes on under it and fits tight on the injector body also in the recess.
Then you use screws through the washer with their ends threaded into the manifold to pull the injector into the manifold. A plate of thin steel shaped like a small block chevy thermostat gasket, but sized properly,  might also work. A small section would need to be cut out of the side so that it can slide onto the injector and into the recess.
Hope this helps out for someone.
 
dennis

 


>I actually chopped up a volvo efi intake to get the  aluminum mounting
>bosses but the distance to the head is very short. It would take an aluminum
>welding artist to properly do it in my case. I might be going about this the
>hard way, someone might sell injectors and easy to add injector bosses. 

>thanks, Ted
>


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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  7 21:48:37 2000
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Subject: Re: 'MAP' and Fueling
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 21:55:15 -0500
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| I'm new to the group and have a few (probably) simple questions. (Sorry
it's
| a long Email)
|
| What is the relationship between MAP and MAF. RPM and Air Temp are factors
| in converting the MAP sensor output to match the MAF. What I am trying to
do
| is understand what the differences between MAP and MAF are.

MAF directly measures the amount of air entering an engine.
MAP is used to calculate the amount of air entering an engine.
It's a wash for which is better. They both have advantages and faults in
theory.
Really a matter of what you perfer, and most comfortable working with.
I just happen to like MAP.  While it's not seemling as adaptable as the MAF,
it's easier for me to understand, and work with, so I have my best results
working with it.  It also, is better for transiant responses, so with my
analness about responsiveness, it works for me.

To me ain't nothing more important tehn not running out of resolution, and
table room for tuning.  Tuning an engine to run 18 PSI of boost with a
calibration that stops at 15 PSI, is just plan dumb, or worse in my book.
Means that at either less than WOT the calibration is wrong or at WOT it's
wrong, your choice.  Both are losers in my book.  Hate to be blunt, but
that's how I see it.
Grumpy
   Like I just said in another posting try the archives at DIY for MAP, and
MAP, there is a ton in print about it

| I have a Toyota Supra Twin Turbo and they come with both MAF and MAP
sensor
| systems for the export and Japanese spec cars. These cars have a fuel cut
| which operates as soon as the manifold pressure exceeds a preset limit of
| 13psi. I have designed a voltage hold circuit which clamps the output of
the
| sensor at 13psi (about 4.3V) and hence fools the ECU of the car into
| thinking it is running much lower boost from the turbos.

| The problem is that I am unsure if this will affect the fueling
| charateristcis of the car if I have modified the MAP input the ECU, above
| the 13psi limit. I may be having fueling problems but am unsure what I may
| have done.
|
| Thanks for the reply from Ric Rainbolt regarding the issue. I have
| faithfully added his Email below.
|
| *****P.Betts***********
| The US Surpa site say modifying the MAP sensor output with a fuel cut
| controller is a bad idea for the Jap spec MAP sensor cars but I agree with
| Rob below. As the Supra runs rich at high boost the inability of the ECU
to
| correctly calculate the fueling above fuel-cut, because one of the inputs
is
| static, is small up to a point.
|
| The next question is at what point (manifold pressure) does the MkIV (and
| MkIII for interest) start to lean out? This is probably why water
injection
| makes such a difference because the fuel that is available is cooler and
| thus able to deliver power to the engine more efficiently. (More
| effieciently burnt)
| (Time to get a second oxygen sensor or monitor the current one)
|
| So as a summary.....
|
| The Jap spec Supra **CALCULATES** the Mass Air Flow going into the engine
| using the parameters described below, one being the Manifold Air Pressure
| (MAP).
|
| The Export (UK) Supra directly senses the MAF using some form of
| butteryfly/flap type arrangement (I think) and uses this for fueling
| calculations along with RPM (I suppose) The MAP sensor on the Export
models
| is only used to detect engine vacuum and pressure and doesn't directly
| affect fueling.
|
| Thoughts/Corrections anyone? Any guidance greatfully received.
|
| Thanks
| Pete
|
|
| *****R.Rainbolt*************************************************
| The fuel cut is used on both the Turbo Supra and Turbo MR2.  Since both
| cars run relatively rich at full (stock) boost, it is "safe" to use such a
| circuit to prevent the computer from hitting the fuel cut function, but
| only up to a certain amount of boost.  For the MR2, the FCD cuts in at 11
| PSI, but it is safe to run the car up to about 15-16 PSI, without fuel
| system mods.
|
| To be safe, the best thing you can do is get an extra Oxygen Sensor
| installed and connected to a dash meter (HKS, Summit, Greddy, etc.)  If
the
| FCD is set to 13 PSI, I would not go over 16-17 PSI. Make sure the car
| never turns from rich to lean under full power.
|
| MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) is directly related to MAF (Manifold Air
Flow).
|  The amount of air moving into an engine is refferred to as Mass Air Flow
| (MAF).  MAF is a function of 3 major factors (ignoring temp and humidity
| for a moment).  They are: Throttle Position (TPS), Engine Speed (RPM) and
| Volumetric Efficiency (VE).  VE is a complex component, being different
| values at different RPM and TPS levels.  Systems that only use TPS and MAP
| are referred to as Speed-Density (SD) systems.  They "approximate" the
| amount of air the engine is using computing MAF from the three above
| mentioned components.
|
| Toyota and other manufacturers use MAF and MAP sensors, even though it is
| not absolutely necessary to have both. Either will work, as long as TPS
and
| other factors are known.  On the MR2 and Supra, HKS sells a kit that
| actually lets you eliminate the MAF sensor.  The idea is to allow for
| better intake breathing and better throttle response.
|
| Ric Rainbolt
|
| **************************************************************************
|


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  8 02:34:46 2000
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Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 18:33:45 +1100
From: Richard Wakeling <kojab@ar.com.au>
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To: gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Hiya all,

I have got my hands on a (Opel) Holden Barina 1998 ECM. Firstly, I'm
pretty sure this model isn't OBD-II compatible and this is what we've
found on the 16 pin OBD-II style connector:

Pin 3 Possible TTL Data Signal?
Pin 4 Chassis Ground
Pin 5 Signal Ground
Pin 7 Measured 12V when Ignition was turned on
Pin 12 ?
Pin 16 12 V

Anyhow, I'm very keen to hook this one up on the bench but the wiring is
different to that of previous computer types. Does anybody have a wiring
diagram or pinout for the ECM? Here's some numbers:
16257119 AJ
Memcal type: CBXD 7066

Also, if anybody could confirm if this model is OBD-II compatible or not
that would be great. As yet, we have not seen an OBD-II GM vehicle in
Australia.

Cheers,
Andrew and Richard Wakeling.


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  8 08:59:10 2000
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From: bearbvd@cmn.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #9
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>does anyone know where I could get any tools for this idea ? I had read of
>someone that sold a drill guide ? for a specific injector type.
>>


MSD Fuel Systems, El Paso, Texas sells one.

Greg



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  8 09:28:24 2000
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Subject: Re: TWM and SDS
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Hi All,

I have been lurking on the list a while watching things go by.

Does anyone have experiance with the TWM weber/solex style
throttle bodies?  I have an application that BEGS for them.


Have any of you used the Simple Digital Systems setup?  I realize some of you are EE's (you can't spell gEEk w/o EE - that's my background too!), but I don't have the time anymore for a ECU development project.
Any other simple, inexpensive, systems you would recommend (4 cyl, NA application)

Jim Tyler
DIY_EFI Newbie


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  8 11:58:35 2000
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <200001080927.AA33751688@ga.prestige.net>
Subject: Re: TWM and SDS
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 12:05:19 -0500
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Personally, I favor the GM ecms.  If you go to www.tunercat.com , there are
some hac's of the 1227165, and 1227730/1227727 ecms.  Then for less than
$100 is the editing software for numerous other ecms.
  Also, Terry Kelly has some editors available, for the gm ecms.
So if you stuck with the ecms already haced and get the editor for the same,
it would be easy to have an ecm that is totally in your control.
  Then it's just a matter of chip burner, eraser, and efi hardware.
Clever buyiing will get you lots more, the the same dollars for an
aftermarket one.  Plus, in the event of failure, junkyards are easier to
find then a SDS ecm on Sat and out of town..
Grumpy

| Does anyone have experiance with the TWM weber/solex style
| throttle bodies?  I have an application that BEGS for them.
| Have any of you used the Simple Digital Systems setup?  I realize some of
you are EE's (you can't spell gEEk w/o EE - that's my background too!), but
I don't have the time anymore for a ECU development project.
| Any other simple, inexpensive, systems you would recommend (4 cyl, NA
application)
| Jim Tyler
| DIY_EFI Newbie



From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  8 19:05:07 2000
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Subject: Re: TWM & GM ECM
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OK, help me through this hypothetically (I'll save it!)

TWM + GM compatible injectors
Assume a proper fuel delvery system (tackle that later)
GM ecu + donor engine harness to hack up


Is there a crank triggered 4-cyl non turbo ecu from GM that would do the
following:


1) control the fuel pump on/off
2) I guess we use a GM temp sensor (no prob) for warm up.
3) trigger off the crank (I can probably fabricate that part,
depending on how GM triggers)

4) fire a coil or MSD through the original dist/cap/rotor
(I could do crank fire 1/coil per cyl, but am trying to keep 
the extra's down and don't want to try to force a GM dist into
this engine) 

5) I assume a TPS is used, yes?

6) Is a MAP? 

7) Could I (would I want to) use a MAF with the TWM's/GM 

8) What donor vehicle are you thinking?

9) I don't have emissions as an issue, do we want to or need
to run an O2 sensor for the ECU to function or would it just run open
loop if not connected?


Sorry for all the questions I warned you about newbieness.....
just getting started.

Thanks a ton,
Jim



>Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 12:05:19 -0500
>From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
>Subject: Re: TWM and SDS
>
>Personally, I favor the GM ecms.......

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  8 19:53:22 2000
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Anyone out there real familiar with Nissan ecu's/ FI?


Jim Tyler

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Subject: Re: TWM & GM ECM
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| OK, help me through this hypothetically (I'll save it!)

You sure, you edited out the precious stuff, from the first post.
I told you what ecms, I would consider, and where to look for info., and
then you write back asking questions that a casual scan would have answered.
Also, don't forget the archives, thes DIY+GMECM.  You need to be informed,
and just doing FAQ ain't enough, you got lots of home work.
 Anyway:

| Is there a crank triggered 4-cyl non turbo ecu from GM that would do the
| following:
| 1) control the fuel pump on/off

They all do after a fashion, looking at the wiring diagram for mentioned
ecms at FTP will show you how, it's done

| 2) I guess we use a GM temp sensor (no prob) for warm up.

It's used all the time, and critical for a street car.

| 3) trigger off the crank (I can probably fabricate that part,
| depending on how GM triggers)

Several, strategies, might consider the local library and looking at shop
manuals.  Might even consider figuring out what you have, and how that
compares to where your going.

| 4) fire a coil or MSD through the original dist/cap/rotor
| (I could do crank fire 1/coil per cyl, but am trying to keep
| the extra's down and don't want to try to force a GM dist into
| this engine)

Any 12v to 0 point open signal operates a MSD etc..

| 5) I assume a TPS is used, yes?

Yes

| 6) Is a MAP?

The 730 hac I refered to is MAP

| 7) Could I (would I want to) use a MAF with the TWM's/GM

I'd go MAP, and that's what the hac is for.

| 8) What donor vehicle are you thinking?

I'd finish gather info about what is going on, and then worry about parts.

| 9) I don't have emissions as an issue, do we want to or need
| to run an O2 sensor for the ECU to function or would it just run open
| loop if not connected?

No big lose just using closed loop.  For the novice might be easier, long
term.
Grumpy

| Sorry for all the questions I warned you about newbieness.....
| just getting started.

| Thanks a ton,
| Jim
|
|
|
| >Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 12:05:19 -0500
| >From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
| >Subject: Re: TWM and SDS
| >
| >Personally, I favor the GM ecms.......
|


From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  8 20:11:33 2000
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Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 20:10:57 EST
Subject: Geek?!?!?!
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In a message dated 1/8/00 1:12:29 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu writes:

<< I realize some of you are EE's (you can't spell gEEk w/o EE - that's my 
background too!), >>


You can't spell bEEr either...

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  8 22:23:15 2000
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Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 19:23:13 -0800 (PST)
From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #9:Injector mounting
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Cutting intersecting tubing and holes is not a new
problem, chassis and roll bar fabricators must do it
all the time. There is a widely used tool, ('ole joint
jigger, etc. ) that accomplished this task. It can be
adjusted for tubing up to 2-3 inches, and almost any
intersecting angle. Uses a standard hand drill with
common hole saws. 

...I guess I am stuck at
> the point of what makes
> a good design. It is a little tough to have the
> correct 'crossfire' angle
> and still leave a good airflow (not too much hanging
> out inside the intake).
> and work out a proper splayed fuel layout for the
> injectors....

But since the Volvo used batch fire, as Grumpy pointed
out, why bother? What size motor was the Volvo? MGB
was 1.8L AFIR. Look up the flow on the 4 injectors you
have (Lucas, Bosch, ?), then find some compatible ones
that will flow enough for the MGB using just two.

flow req = (MGB motor)/(Volvo motor) x (inj flow) x 2

So if the Volvo was 2.2L, injectors 19 lb, then

flow req = (1.8)/(2.2) x 19 x 2 = 31 lb

Of course, this assumes similar VE, max RPM usage,
etc., YMMV.

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  8 22:36:26 2000
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From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
Subject: Injector Spray Pattern
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Does anyone know how to find out the spray pattern
angle of an injector from it's part number or
application?

Recent list threads reminded me that I must use a
narrow angle injector on my project. If I had an
injector spray bench, and access to every injector
made, I could find out. Although I would love to build
an injector test bench someday, this is not the time.

I know that this is an important part of the design
spec for an injector (size and shape of the pintle and
seat, etc. ), so the data exists somewhere.

Failing that, does anyone have any empirical info?

Thanks,

Carter
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  9 12:49:13 2000
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Now you re taking me back to school!   Lots of drunk geeks...!

A pretty female EE I knew one told me:  "Anyone who is into FET's,
Eproms, and micro's is a geek at heart; some of us just hide
it better than others!" She later posed in one of those playboy school
pictorials, just for fun. 

(No offense, All in fun!)



>Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 20:10:57 EST
>From: A70Duster@aol.com
>Subject: Geek?!?!?!
>
>In a message dated 1/8/00 1:12:29 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
>DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu writes:
>
><< I realize some of you are EE's (you can't spell gEEk w/o EE - that's my 
>background too!), >>
>
>
>You can't spell bEEr either...
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  9 13:08:32 2000
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>
>Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 20:05:54 -0500
>From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
>Subject: Re: TWM & GM ECM
>
>| OK, help me through this hypothetically (I'll save it!)
>
>You sure, you edited out the precious stuff, from the first post.
>I told you what ecms, I would consider, and where to look for info., and

Thanks very much. I did save the precious stuff and found "programming 101", and some of the hacks.  There was alot of good info in that
short email, thanks again. 


>Several, strategies, might consider the local library and looking at shop
>manuals.  Might even consider figuring out what you have, and how that
>compares to where your going.


Is there a particular text or manual that comes to mind for this type
setup (MAP,TPS, dist)?

The original application is a very solid, free breathing, 4 cylinder which had carbs and points.  I can either modify the dist or go crank 
triggered.  There are no GM parts that will direct fit.

The TWM's are perfect since there is a very nice manifold available,
all bolt up making that part attractive.   

Jim


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  9 13:40:00 2000
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Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 10:39:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Nahuel Garavaglia <ngarav@yahoo.com>
Subject: Efi for motorcycle
To: DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Well, actually i'm riding a yamaha radian 600, i have
two of them one totally original an another one
totally unmounted, on the second i rebuilding the
engine, 'cause the carbs are totalle termined! and
'cause i owner of a nissan repairing shop i'm planing
to make it an EFI RADIAN, i have a lot of inyectors in
some condition to make a premier test, i think about
devdelop a MAP type efi, can anubody send me ideas.


=====
Nahuel Garavaglia

ngarav@yahoo.com


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Subject: Re: TWM & GM ECM
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It literally takes years to accumulate the info.....
I've been actively gathering EFI stuff since 85, and have a small library of
info., and lost alot in a tornado, so some of what I do is from memory
(failing thou as it is).  Anyway, that's why I always seem a little short
always asking for application, and engine specifics.   Like free breathing 4
cyl. tells me absolutely nothing.  I have meet folks here that can do a
vulcan mind meld with an ecm, but not one that can tell more then what is
written for what someone is working one.
  If you really are seriou about EFI, and learning then contact

General Motors Training Materials
MSX International Marketing Service
1426 Pacific Dr
Auburn Hillls, MI  48326
(800)  393-4831

Their book,  GM Fuel Injection Diagnostics, gives a good over view of the gm
systems, and options for some components.

Then for like TPS Switches you need to do alot of junkyard hunting or find a
parts house that will let you look at the AC Delco Emissions Book.  In the
back it has pictures of the various TPS switches, IAT, CTS, etc...

If it has points then there probably is a LED conversion kit for it, then
you can sometimes make a new shutter, and all of a sudden everything is done
for your DIS.  All that needs done was generating a conversion from the coil
driver to operate the gm sensor input to the module...  Take a dissy cap cut
the top off, glue/epoxy a flat top on it, and you have one very trick
cam/crank posistion sensor, that needs no maintainence.

The gm sensors are generally regular pipe threads so they are no brainers to
work.  For TPS, there is always the option of driving it off the acc. pedal
linkage (thou mounted at butterflies best).  I'd bet TWM has one with TPS on
it.
Grumpy

| Is there a particular text or manual that comes to mind for this type
| setup (MAP,TPS, dist)?
| The original application is a very solid, free breathing, 4 cylinder which
had carbs and points.  I can either modify the dist or go crank
| triggered.  There are no GM parts that will direct fit.
| The TWM's are perfect since there is a very nice manifold available,
| all bolt up making that part attractive.
| Jim



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Subject: Re: TWM & GMECM
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It is a Nissan U20 engine if that tells you anything.  There is a Pertronics and Crane/Allison kit available if that helps.  How many
triggers/crossings do the GM distributor type systems usually use?
(I'll look into it myself)  


Yes, the TWM's have TPS's (various types available),so that part is easy.



>always asking for application, and engine specifics.   Like free breathing 4
>cyl. tells me absolutely nothing.  I have meet folks here that can do a
>vulcan mind meld with an ecm, but not one that can tell more then what is
>written for what someone is working one.


>  If you really are seriou about EFI, and learning then contact
>
>General Motors Training Materials
>MSX International Marketing Service
>1426 Pacific Dr
>Auburn Hillls, MI  48326
>(800)  393-4831
>
>Their book,  GM Fuel Injection Diagnostics, gives a good over view of the gm
>systems, and options for some components.
>

Thanks, Sounds very good.

>Then for like TPS Switches you need to do alot of junkyard hunting or find a
>parts house that will let you look at the AC Delco Emissions Book.  In the
>back it has pictures of the various TPS switches, IAT, CTS, etc...
>
>If it has points then there probably is a LED conversion kit for it, then
>you can sometimes make a new shutter, and all of a sudden everything is done
>for your DIS.  All that needs done was generating a conversion from the coil
>driver to operate the gm sensor input to the module...  Take a dissy cap cut
>the top off, glue/epoxy a flat top on it, and you have one very trick
>cam/crank posistion sensor, that needs no maintainence.
>
>  For TPS, there is always the option of driving it off the acc. pedal
>linkage (thou mounted at butterflies best).  I'd bet TWM has one with TPS on
>it.
>Grumpy


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Subject: LRP and O2 sensors
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Hi all,

For those unaware, Western Australia has just moved from leaded petrol to lead
replacement petrol (oh joy, like New Zealand).  Anyway there has been lots of
talk about whether it harms the older engines, but no one has mentioned whether
it is now safe to permanently mount the O2 in the car.  So I guess my question
is, can anyone confirm whether O2 sensors are resistant to LRP (apparently LRP
is based on premium unleaded blended with a potassium brew of some sort) ?

Dan  dzorde@erggroup.com



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  9 19:44:59 2000
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <200001091907.AA2297758212@ga.prestige.net>
Subject: Re: TWM & GMECM
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 19:51:37 -0500
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If your doing, or planning on possibly going DIS, then the Crane wins, and
get an uncut spare wheel or two.  Alllison used to just about give em away
when you asked for em.
  For the Dissy, it's just like a point signal.
  For DIS, they most often use (4 cyl application), use 6 notches (equally
spaced), and one offset 10 degrees from one of them.  I you get serious
about the DIS, I'll scan a diagram showing the notches/offset/which notch
fires which coil pack etc..
Grumpy

| It is a Nissan U20 engine if that tells you anything.  There is a
Pertronics and Crane/Allison kit available if that helps.  How many
| triggers/crossings do the GM distributor type systems usually use?
| (I'll look into it myself)

| Yes, the TWM's have TPS's (various types available),so that part is easy.

| >always asking for application, and engine specifics.   Like free
breathing 4
| >cyl. tells me absolutely nothing.  I have meet folks here that can do a
| >vulcan mind meld with an ecm, but not one that can tell more then what is
| >written for what someone is working one.
| >  If you really are seriou about EFI, and learning then contact
| >General Motors Training Materials
| >MSX International Marketing Service
| >1426 Pacific Dr
| >Auburn Hillls, MI  48326
| >(800)  393-4831
| >Their book,  GM Fuel Injection Diagnostics, gives a good over view of the
gm
| >systems, and options for some components.

| Thanks, Sounds very good.

| >Then for like TPS Switches you need to do alot of junkyard hunting or
find a
| >parts house that will let you look at the AC Delco Emissions Book.  In
the
| >back it has pictures of the various TPS switches, IAT, CTS, etc...
| >If it has points then there probably is a LED conversion kit for it, then
| >you can sometimes make a new shutter, and all of a sudden everything is
done
| >for your DIS.  All that needs done was generating a conversion from the
coil
| >driver to operate the gm sensor input to the module...  Take a dissy cap
cut
| >the top off, glue/epoxy a flat top on it, and you have one very trick
| >cam/crank posistion sensor, that needs no maintainence.
| >  For TPS, there is always the option of driving it off the acc. pedal
| >linkage (thou mounted at butterflies best).  I'd bet TWM has one with TPS
on
| >it.
| >Grumpy



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References: <48256862.0001CF7B.00@aupera03.erggroup.com>
Subject: Re: LRP and O2 sensors
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 20:42:34 -0500
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All things being equal, I've never first hand had that problem.
Now if they change the octane or Reed Vapor Levels while doing that then
there will be problems, but with as many cos that have done that, there is
no reason for it to be a problem.  If in doubt just back to basics, reading
plugs, and then reading them some more.  The plugs will answer your
questions.
Grumpy

| Hi all,
| For those unaware, Western Australia has just moved from leaded petrol to
lead
| replacement petrol (oh joy, like New Zealand).  Anyway there has been lots
of
| talk about whether it harms the older engines, but no one has mentioned
whether
| it is now safe to permanently mount the O2 in the car.  So I guess my
question
| is, can anyone confirm whether O2 sensors are resistant to LRP (apparently
LRP
| is based on premium unleaded blended with a potassium brew of some sort) ?
| Dan  dzorde@erggroup.com



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Subject: Need Source For Small Gas Engine Fuel Injection Parts
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 20:22:12 -0700
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I need any source that anyone might have about small gasoline engine =
fuel injection part suppiers.

Thank you.

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 10 10:43:12 2000
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Subject: Knock Sensor on Dyno
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I am currently building a eddy current dynamometer for testing small engines
up to 70 ft lbs of torque. I am working on the instrumentation now and I was
reading the archive and started thinking about knock sensing. I already have
a digital tach, torque and 10 channel thermocouple thermometer in the works.
I was wondering if I could add a knock sensor to my list also? What
specifically would I need to use a sensor ie power and how do I read it? I'd
like to use a sensor out of the junkyard to keep costs down so any ideas of
which one would suit me the best (partial to GM parts)? Can I put the sensor
in some type of holder then bolt it to the block for testing? Another idea I
have is to read intake air, not sure whether Mass air sensor will work due
to stand off fuel (might make a big flame), or a MAP sensor maybe inside
some type of velocity stack? Thanks in advance for any and all ideas! This
list is a wealth of knowledge, anyone wanting to see my ongoing dyno build
stop by my homepage at http://www.geocities.com/brucepts/pts.htm

Bruce 

            There are those that have, and those that will . . . 




From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 10 17:25:29 2000
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From: Andris <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
Subject: Re: Knock sensor on dyno
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On Mon, 10 Jan 2000, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:

> 
> DIY_EFI Digest        Monday, January 10 2000        Volume 05 : Number 014
> 
> 
> 
> In this issue:
> 
> 	Knock Sensor on Dyno
> 
> See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
> DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.
> 
> I am currently building a eddy current dynamometer for testing small engines
> up to 70 ft lbs of torque. I am working on the instrumentation now and I was
> reading the archive and started thinking about knock sensing.

> like to use a sensor out of the junkyard to keep costs down so any ideas of
> which one would suit me the best (partial to GM parts)?

The one problem that comes to mind if you were using the GM knock sensors
is the sonic qualities of knocking in your small engine. From what I've
read, the knock sensor is tuned to specifically hear+amplify the
characteristic knock sound for that bore diameter, and block. GM has had
several different knock sensors, and even had a different one for the LT1
and LT4, even though they have the same dimensions (LT4 was supposedly a
little noisier). If you have the same bore, then I guess the knock would
sound similar.

> Can I put the sensor
> in some type of holder then bolt it to the block for testing?

I think as long as the sensor is in contact with the cooling jacket water,
you should be OK. HTH!

Andris/SPD
Z28tt-89 IROC T56 DFi Twin Turbo


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Subject: Re: Knock sensor on dyno
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If, I were going to do something like this, I'd just grab a couple sensors
from like a 4-6-8  Gm, then Chyrler, product line.  Then just setup a little
Op-Amp and wire that to a comparator to turn on a LED.   Use an ajustable
threshold on comparator to tune out back ground noise.
  If mounted in head parrarel with rod travel, if from side of cylinder
right angle to rod travel seems to be about the logic in mounting from what
I've seen.  Securely mounted being the buzz word here.
  You might even try the stock ESC of the matching year application (there
are several very different KS from gm), so they match the ESC module...
  If the EPA was breathing down my back, I would probably get real anal
about being dead on for frequency.  But for DIY_EFI, I think the above is
close enough.
  Just remember free advise is just that..... No guarantees


| > Knock Sensor on Dyno
| > I am currently building a eddy current dynamometer for testing small
engines
| > up to 70 ft lbs of torque. I am working on the instrumentation now and I
was
| > reading the archive and started thinking about knock sensing.
| > like to use a sensor out of the junkyard to keep costs down so any ideas
of
| > which one would suit me the best (partial to GM parts)?
| The one problem that comes to mind if you were using the GM knock sensors
| is the sonic qualities of knocking in your small engine. From what I've
| read, the knock sensor is tuned to specifically hear+amplify the
| characteristic knock sound for that bore diameter, and block. GM has had
| several different knock sensors, and even had a different one for the LT1
| and LT4, even though they have the same dimensions (LT4 was supposedly a
| little noisier). If you have the same bore, then I guess the knock would
| sound similar.
| > Can I put the sensor
| > in some type of holder then bolt it to the block for testing?
| I think as long as the sensor is in contact with the cooling jacket water,
| you should be OK. HTH!
| Andris/SPD



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 10 18:00:34 2000
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Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 15:00:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #14:Knock sensor on Dyno
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu,
        DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Bruce,
I believe that the sensors are built to be sensitive
to specific frequencies, to minimize false trigger,
etc. In other words, they are specific to a given
engine.

I have been working with freeware audio spectrum
analyzer program that uses the sound card on a PC. By
connecting a wide band microphone to the motor, and
then simulating knock (resembles pounding on the block
with a hammer or broomstick), the characteristic
frequencies of a given motor can be determined. The
resonant frequencies show up as spikes. If you can
safely induce actual knock in the running motor, even
better results. 

Using that info, the PC software can be set up to look
for knock signals for that specific motor.

All freeware, just need to bolt on a microphone
(guitar mic?) Save the results on a floppy.

YMMV, I'm just playing with it right now.

Carter Shore
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 10 18:00:37 2000
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From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #14:Knock sensor on Dyno
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu,
        DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Bruce,
I believe that the sensors are built to be sensitive
to specific frequencies, to minimize false trigger,
etc. In other words, they are specific to a given
engine.

I have been working with freeware audio spectrum
analyzer program that uses the sound card on a PC. By
connecting a wide band microphone to the motor, and
then simulating knock (resembles pounding on the block
with a hammer or broomstick), the characteristic
frequencies of a given motor can be determined. The
resonant frequencies show up as spikes. If you can
safely induce actual knock in the running motor, even
better results. 

Using that info, the PC software can be set up to look
for knock signals for that specific motor.

All freeware, just need to bolt on a microphone
(guitar mic?) Save the results on a floppy.

YMMV, I'm just playing with it right now.

Carter Shore
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 10 18:12:01 2000
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References: <20000110230032.24518.qmail@web905.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #14:Knock sensor on Dyno
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I didn't say they were.  That's why I said to get a few and try them...
And BS to engine specific.  The one I'm running in my F-Body (355 CID), is
from a 3.8L 85MY, as I recall.  See I went and got several ESC moddules, and
sensors and actually tinkered with mix and matching them, so I do have some
notion on how the things ACTUALLY work.
  Audio analyzer, gee great.  I did my actual on car testing with a $20 old
scanner, and will match my results to anyone's.  Theory is fine, but
execution is what matters!!..
Grumpy
  Hmm, wonder why?.

| Bruce,
| I believe that the sensors are built to be sensitive
| to specific frequencies, to minimize false trigger,
| etc. In other words, they are specific to a given
| engine.
| I have been working with freeware audio spectrum
| analyzer program that uses the sound card on a PC. By
| connecting a wide band microphone to the motor, and
| then simulating knock (resembles pounding on the block
| with a hammer or broomstick), the characteristic
| frequencies of a given motor can be determined. The
| resonant frequencies show up as spikes. If you can
| safely induce actual knock in the running motor, even
| better results.
| Using that info, the PC software can be set up to look
| for knock signals for that specific motor.
| All freeware, just need to bolt on a microphone
| (guitar mic?) Save the results on a floppy.
| YMMV, I'm just playing with it right now.
| Carter Shore



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 10 18:27:30 2000
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #14
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MAF or map will work fine on the dyno but you need a large damping volume
between it and the engine.  A knock sensor is just a piezoelectric
microphone, you can mount it anywhere.  You will have to do some trial and
error to see what works.

Gary Derian <gderian@oh.verio.com>

> I am currently building a eddy current dynamometer for testing small
engines
> up to 70 ft lbs of torque. I am working on the instrumentation now and I
was
> reading the archive and started thinking about knock sensing. I already
have
> a digital tach, torque and 10 channel thermocouple thermometer in the
works.
> I was wondering if I could add a knock sensor to my list also? What
> specifically would I need to use a sensor ie power and how do I read it?
I'd
> like to use a sensor out of the junkyard to keep costs down so any ideas
of
> which one would suit me the best (partial to GM parts)? Can I put the
sensor
> in some type of holder then bolt it to the block for testing? Another idea
I
> have is to read intake air, not sure whether Mass air sensor will work due
> to stand off fuel (might make a big flame), or a MAP sensor maybe inside
> some type of velocity stack? Thanks in advance for any and all ideas! This
> list is a wealth of knowledge, anyone wanting to see my ongoing dyno build
> stop by my homepage at http://www.geocities.com/brucepts/pts.htm
>
> Bruce
>
>             There are those that have, and those that will . . .



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 10 19:17:59 2000
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I like the "cut you own wheel" idea with the Crane, very clever.
However, if I am going to go DIS, would it be that much harder to 
make a wheel for the crank pulley  and use some kind of pickup down there?  Is there one you especially like?  Thanks in advance.

Jim 

---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
>Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 19:51:37 -0500
>From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
>Subject: Re: TWM & GMECM
>
>If your doing, or planning on possibly going DIS, then the Crane wins, and
>get an uncut spare wheel or two.  Alllison used to just about give em away
>when you asked for em.
>  For the Dissy, it's just like a point signal.
>  For DIS, they most often use (4 cyl application), use 6 notches (equally
>spaced), and one offset 10 degrees from one of them.  I you get serious
>about the DIS, I'll scan a diagram showing the notches/offset/which notch
>fires which coil pack etc..
>Grumpy
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 10 20:02:31 2000
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OK, here's a true novice question then.  Have never owned a car that runs
unleaded, what colour should the plugs be when you are running unleaded, after
all cars on unleaded always seem to have black tailpipes ?

Dan  dzorde@erggroup.com


Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 20:42:34 -0500
From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
Subject: Re: LRP and O2 sensors

All things being equal, I've never first hand had that problem.
Now if they change the octane or Reed Vapor Levels while doing that then
there will be problems, but with as many cos that have done that, there is
no reason for it to be a problem.  If in doubt just back to basics, reading
plugs, and then reading them some more.  The plugs will answer your
questions.
Grumpy




From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 10 21:10:39 2000
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Subject: Pulse Width at  -40 degrees
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Hi All,

Other than the fact that the colder air is denser and drier how much longer
should the pulse width be extended relative to a pulse width at say freezing
temperatures?  5% 10% 100% 200%

Is there anyone out there in a cold climate that can measure the pulse width of
a cold engine at -20 to -40 compared to what it is when the engine has been
parked in a garage at just above freezing?

The problem is that where I live the Winter temperature is currently +2C and
still fairly humid in this temperate rain forest.  An engine we have installed
out where it's -20C has a heck of a time starting unless they warm up the engine
compartment with a space heater.  I realize this is a problem that people in
California do not have.  Same with people who only race in the summer.  Anyone
done and DIY_EFI for an ice racer?

Thanks,

John





From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 10 21:40:16 2000
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Note a universal formula, depends on engine.  If you were to look thru the
hacs at www.tunercat.com there is lots of useful info  about air temp.,
coolant temps for the gm ecms.
Grumpy

| Other than the fact that the colder air is denser and drier how much
longer
| should the pulse width be extended relative to a pulse width at say
freezing
| temperatures?  5% 10% 100% 200%
|
| Is there anyone out there in a cold climate that can measure the pulse
width of
| a cold engine at -20 to -40 compared to what it is when the engine has
been
| parked in a garage at just above freezing?
|
| The problem is that where I live the Winter temperature is currently +2C
and
| still fairly humid in this temperate rain forest.  An engine we have
installed
| out where it's -20C has a heck of a time starting unless they warm up the
engine
| compartment with a space heater.  I realize this is a problem that people
in
| California do not have.  Same with people who only race in the summer.
Anyone
| done and DIY_EFI for an ice racer?
|
| Thanks,
|
| John
|
|
|
|


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Subject: Re: LRP and O2
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Very light beige, to bone white (bleached off white color), watch for glue
oozing out from the center electrode (heat range/timing).
grumpy

| OK, here's a true novice question then.  Have never owned a car that runs
| unleaded, what colour should the plugs be when you are running unleaded,
after
| all cars on unleaded always seem to have black tailpipes ?
|
| Dan  dzorde@erggroup.com
|
|
| Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 20:42:34 -0500
| From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
| Subject: Re: LRP and O2 sensors
|
| All things being equal, I've never first hand had that problem.
| Now if they change the octane or Reed Vapor Levels while doing that then
| there will be problems, but with as many cos that have done that, there is
| no reason for it to be a problem.  If in doubt just back to basics,
reading
| plugs, and then reading them some more.  The plugs will answer your
| questions.
| Grumpy
|
|
|


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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: TWM & GMECM
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Geez, not even in the same league.  Protractor and X-Acto knife vs AL, and
measuring, and figuring out where the notches have to be and slotted for
enough adjustment.  If I owned a machine shop and had the engine on a stand,
I'd still go the dissy route
Grumpy


| I like the "cut you own wheel" idea with the Crane, very clever.
| However, if I am going to go DIS, would it be that much harder to
| make a wheel for the crank pulley  and use some kind of pickup down there?
Is there one you especially like?  Thanks in advance.
| Jim

| >From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
| >Subject: Re: TWM & GMECM
| >If your doing, or planning on possibly going DIS, then the Crane wins,
and
| >get an uncut spare wheel or two.  Alllison used to just about give em
away
| >when you asked for em.
| >  For the Dissy, it's just like a point signal.
| >  For DIS, they most often use (4 cyl application), use 6 notches
(equally
| >spaced), and one offset 10 degrees from one of them.  I you get serious
| >about the DIS, I'll scan a diagram showing the notches/offset/which notch
| >fires which coil pack etc..
| >Grumpy



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 11 07:52:40 2000
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From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #15:Knock Sensors
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu,
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Ouch!
Geez Grumpy, gimme a break. I was replying to the
original post by brucep@ptd.net, not to your reply,
(got my Bruce's mixed up). 

You've probably forgotten more than I'll ever learn on
this subject, and I appreciate the fact that you are
willing to share it with us.

But bear with me a second. I'm facing a similar
problem to the dyno-building Bruce (he is testing
tractor motors). The problem is that no one has
applied knock sensors to my engine (at least not the
manufacturer). Maybe there's a KS that will work,
maybe not. I've seen a spec sheet for Ford KS that
specifies the resonant frequencies for some, but not
for any other manufacturers. 

Since I have worked professionally with noise and
signal analysis, I looked to the tools that I used
every day for years. Spectrum analysis is one of them.
It's just a measurement tool, not abstract theory. 

When I was in the biz, the instruments cost thousands
of dollars. Now it's free for the downloading. 

I believe that a lot of list members would find a
simple cheap system for detecting knock very
accurately on any motor a useful tool. Maybe you too.

I'll share whatever I find with the list, if there's
any interest.

Even if turns out to be BS, at least we will have
found out what does not work, and move on.

Thanks,

Carter

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 11 07:52:41 2000
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From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #15:Knock Sensors
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu,
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Ouch!
Geez Grumpy, gimme a break. I was replying to the
original post by brucep@ptd.net, not to your reply,
(got my Bruce's mixed up). 

You've probably forgotten more than I'll ever learn on
this subject, and I appreciate the fact that you are
willing to share it with us.

But bear with me a second. I'm facing a similar
problem to the dyno-building Bruce (he is testing
tractor motors). The problem is that no one has
applied knock sensors to my engine (at least not the
manufacturer). Maybe there's a KS that will work,
maybe not. I've seen a spec sheet for Ford KS that
specifies the resonant frequencies for some, but not
for any other manufacturers. 

Since I have worked professionally with noise and
signal analysis, I looked to the tools that I used
every day for years. Spectrum analysis is one of them.
It's just a measurement tool, not abstract theory. 

When I was in the biz, the instruments cost thousands
of dollars. Now it's free for the downloading. 

I believe that a lot of list members would find a
simple cheap system for detecting knock very
accurately on any motor a useful tool. Maybe you too.

I'll share whatever I find with the list, if there's
any interest.

Even if turns out to be BS, at least we will have
found out what does not work, and move on.

Thanks,

Carter

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 11 08:34:04 2000
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Well it certainly pays to ask first.  Thanks a bunch.
I could always go to a crank wheel later after all the otherstuff
is sorted out, but for street use I certainly don't need to.
I just wanted to eliminate the dist if possible.

So back to the Crane.  What electrical input is the ecm looking for
from the trigger wheel?

Do I build a circuit to condition the Crane box output to the GM ecm,
or do you need to make a new driver for the optical sensor itself and have it trigger the ecm directly?  Has someone been down this path...sounds like? 

If you can send me the wheel drawing that would be great.  If a fax
is less effort let me know.  BTW there is absolutely no rush on this.
I am one of those "Blessed" with too many projects.

Dopey


>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 21:54:10 -0500
>From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
>Subject: Re: TWM & GMECM
>
>Geez, not even in the same league.  Protractor and X-Acto knife vs AL, and
>measuring, and figuring out where the notches have to be and slotted for
>enough adjustment.  If I owned a machine shop and had the engine on a stand,
>I'd still go the dissy route
>Grumpy
>
>
>| I like the "cut you own wheel" idea with the Crane, very clever.
>| However, if I am going to go DIS, would it be that much harder to
>| make a wheel for the crank pulley  and use some kind of pickup down there?
>Is there one you especially like?  Thanks in advance.
>| Jim


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 11 09:25:30 2000
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For yet another project, is there a nice reliable, relatively easy to mount crank sensor that interfaces easily to the GM ECM's you favor?  
In this case a dist is not an option.  

I have provisions to build a mount, make/adapt a crank wheel of some type or precisely install magnets in a pulley or even a flywheel.

Does the GM DIS have 5 or 6k rpm limits, something I read somewhere indicated that, but they may have been talking about HEI coils?  All this stuff I am playing with needs to make it 
to 6.5K, the race app at least 8500.  

Dopey

>about the DIS, I'll scan a diagram showing the notches/offset/which notch
>| >fires which coil pack etc..
>| >Grumpy
>
>------------------------------


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 11 13:15:15 2000
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> Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 15:00:32 -0800 (PST)
> From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #14:Knock sensor on Dyno
> 
> Bruce,
> I believe that the sensors are built to be sensitive
> to specific frequencies, to minimize false trigger,
> etc. In other words, they are specific to a given
> engine.
> 
> I have been working with freeware audio spectrum
> analyzer program that uses the sound card on a PC. By
> connecting a wide band microphone to the motor, and
> then simulating knock (resembles pounding on the block
> with a hammer or broomstick), the characteristic
> frequencies of a given motor can be determined. The
> resonant frequencies show up as spikes. If you can
> safely induce actual knock in the running motor, even
> better results.
> 
> Using that info, the PC software can be set up to look
> for knock signals for that specific motor.
> 
> All freeware, just need to bolt on a microphone
> (guitar mic?) Save the results on a floppy.
> 
> YMMV, I'm just playing with it right now.

Carter -- what is this software called and where is it available from? 
This is very interesting.

--steve


-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 11 16:43:43 2000
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From: "Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com>
To: "'DIY-EFI'" <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Knock Sensing
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 13:43:00 -0800
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Some time ago I found a reasonable reference on knock detection on TI's
website ... I checked and found it is still there ... here's an abstract:
ENGINE KNOCK DETECTION USING SPECTRAL ANALYSIS WITH TMS320C25 OR TMS320C30
DSPS - An efficient method of detecting combustion engine knock is using
spectral analysis. The detection process algorithm adapts to a no-knock
reference at varying speeds and loads by using multiple frequencies. This
document presents an problem overview, current technology, and two
implementation examples are given to aid in the development of system
specific hardware and software. The first system is based on the 32-bit
floating-point TMS320C30 DSP with software written in C. The second is
production oriented using a TMS320C25 16-bit fixed-point DSP and assembler
software. The appendix contains the code for each implementation. 

	http://www.ti.com/sc/docs/psheets/abstract/apps/spra039.htm

I have been contemplating the addition of a knock sensor to an engine which
did not originally have one so that I can start tweaking the performance.
While this reference does give a good background into the whys and hows from
a DSP standpoint, it doesn't go into strategies for mounting sensor(s) for
best results.  Are there any references that discuss this sort of issue?
Does anyone know any companies who actually make the sensors?  I'd love to
see specs for typical sensors (frequency response and such).  The TI
reference states that there are two types of "indirect" knock sensors, ones
that are tuned to specific frequencies and broadband units.  From what I've
seen I'm thinking that most if  not all of the knock sensors I've seen have
been tuned units to minimize the amount of subsequent processing required.
It seems to me that if one were contemplating adding a knock sensor to an
engine, the broadband approach might be the preferred solution.  

Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 11 18:42:17 2000
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Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 23:47:39 +0000
From: Donald Whisnant <dewhisna@ix.netcom.com>
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For people who have wanted to download my HC11 disassembler during this
past month-and-a-half or so and found that my website was down, I just
wanted to let you know that it is back up and running and appologize for
any inconvenience...  I moved to switch jobs and am now on a different
internet service, though from the user perspective, the site appears the
same...

The current address for the front-end of the site is:

http://dewhisna.home.netcom.com

The HC11 disassembler link can be found on the download page:

http://dewhisna.home.netcom.com/download.html

My old ISP still has my site active, though I don't know how long they
will keep it active...  There you'll only find a link to this new
location...  And unfortunately, all of the search engines still only
have the old site listed...

I will be putting up a mirror for this new front-end of the site once I
get the details worked out with my new ISP...  And I eventually plan to
register a name for the site...  But in the meantime, use the above
address and enjoy...

As for the next version (1.2), it is basically complete except for the
manual re-writes -- I've been too busy with the job switch and
relocation to get it completed yet -- but it's coming (I promise)...

Donald Whisnant
dewhisna@ix.netcom.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 11 18:55:32 2000
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Subject: Re: GMECM and Crank Sensors
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 19:02:23 -0500
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First one that jumps to mind is the late vortec.
You really need to find a parts house that has some catalogs with photos for
part ID'ing.   They do exist from Delco, and Standard Electronics.
Grumpy


| For yet another project, is there a nice reliable, relatively easy to
mount crank sensor that interfaces easily to the GM ECM's you favor?
| In this case a dist is not an option.
| I have provisions to build a mount, make/adapt a crank wheel of some type
or precisely install magnets in a pulley or even a flywheel.
| Does the GM DIS have 5 or 6k rpm limits, something I read somewhere
indicated that, but they may have been talking about HEI coils?

Nope, check out the GN Type list info..  Almost stockers can run to 6.5K.
GM includes a "rev limit" to corral warranty costs, ie weak valve springs,
limited injector size.  Too often that gets credit as a weak ignition.

 All this stuff I am playing with needs to make it
| to 6.5K, the race app at least 8500.
|
| Dopey
|
| >about the DIS, I'll scan a diagram showing the notches/offset/which notch
| >| >fires which coil pack etc..
| >| >Grumpy
| >
| >------------------------------
|


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 11 20:01:39 2000
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From: "Stowe, Ted-SEA" <StowT@PerkinsCoie.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #16
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 17:02:00 -0800
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howdy and thanks for the tip to go look at the fuel injection parts MSD has.
(I was talking about mounting injectors. as some of you probably know, msd
has some flexible fuel hose hardware, "injector manifold pocket, epoxy-in"
pn 2145. and a range of hose hardware, also injectors. by any chance does
anyone have 4 of these hanging around ? I really only need 2 right now, I'd
hate to have to buy 8 (set).

I suspect that I'll buy injectors from msd also, I have to figure out the
flow. I was going to look up the flow rate of the bosch injectors I got from
my donor 2.3 volvo and double that.

does anyone know if bosch injectors are low impedence or not ? they were
batch fired by the volvo jettronic lh computer, I'm trying to figure out if
I buy msd injectors, if my computer will drive them directly or not.

thanks. Ted Stowe

-----Original Message-----
From: DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
[mailto:DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2000 12:00 PM
To: DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #16



DIY_EFI Digest        Tuesday, January 11 2000        Volume 05 : Number 016



In this issue:

	Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #15:Knock Sensors
	Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #15:Knock Sensors
	Re: TWM & GMECM
	Re: GMECM and Crank Sensors
	Re: Knock sensor on Dyno

See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 04:52:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #15:Knock Sensors

Ouch!
Geez Grumpy, gimme a break. I was replying to the
original post by brucep@ptd.net, not to your reply,
(got my Bruce's mixed up). 

You've probably forgotten more than I'll ever learn on
this subject, and I appreciate the fact that you are
willing to share it with us.

But bear with me a second. I'm facing a similar
problem to the dyno-building Bruce (he is testing
tractor motors). The problem is that no one has
applied knock sensors to my engine (at least not the
manufacturer). Maybe there's a KS that will work,
maybe not. I've seen a spec sheet for Ford KS that
specifies the resonant frequencies for some, but not
for any other manufacturers. 

Since I have worked professionally with noise and
signal analysis, I looked to the tools that I used
every day for years. Spectrum analysis is one of them.
It's just a measurement tool, not abstract theory. 

When I was in the biz, the instruments cost thousands
of dollars. Now it's free for the downloading. 

I believe that a lot of list members would find a
simple cheap system for detecting knock very
accurately on any motor a useful tool. Maybe you too.

I'll share whatever I find with the list, if there's
any interest.

Even if turns out to be BS, at least we will have
found out what does not work, and move on.

Thanks,

Carter

__________________________________________________
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Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 04:52:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #15:Knock Sensors

Ouch!
Geez Grumpy, gimme a break. I was replying to the
original post by brucep@ptd.net, not to your reply,
(got my Bruce's mixed up). 

You've probably forgotten more than I'll ever learn on
this subject, and I appreciate the fact that you are
willing to share it with us.

But bear with me a second. I'm facing a similar
problem to the dyno-building Bruce (he is testing
tractor motors). The problem is that no one has
applied knock sensors to my engine (at least not the
manufacturer). Maybe there's a KS that will work,
maybe not. I've seen a spec sheet for Ford KS that
specifies the resonant frequencies for some, but not
for any other manufacturers. 

Since I have worked professionally with noise and
signal analysis, I looked to the tools that I used
every day for years. Spectrum analysis is one of them.
It's just a measurement tool, not abstract theory. 

When I was in the biz, the instruments cost thousands
of dollars. Now it's free for the downloading. 

I believe that a lot of list members would find a
simple cheap system for detecting knock very
accurately on any motor a useful tool. Maybe you too.

I'll share whatever I find with the list, if there's
any interest.

Even if turns out to be BS, at least we will have
found out what does not work, and move on.

Thanks,

Carter

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 08:32:54 -0500
From: "jtyler" <jtyler@ga.prestige.net>
Subject: Re: TWM & GMECM

Well it certainly pays to ask first.  Thanks a bunch.
I could always go to a crank wheel later after all the otherstuff
is sorted out, but for street use I certainly don't need to.
I just wanted to eliminate the dist if possible.

So back to the Crane.  What electrical input is the ecm looking for
from the trigger wheel?

Do I build a circuit to condition the Crane box output to the GM ecm,
or do you need to make a new driver for the optical sensor itself and have
it trigger the ecm directly?  Has someone been down this path...sounds like?


If you can send me the wheel drawing that would be great.  If a fax
is less effort let me know.  BTW there is absolutely no rush on this.
I am one of those "Blessed" with too many projects.

Dopey


>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 21:54:10 -0500
>From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
>Subject: Re: TWM & GMECM
>
>Geez, not even in the same league.  Protractor and X-Acto knife vs AL, and
>measuring, and figuring out where the notches have to be and slotted for
>enough adjustment.  If I owned a machine shop and had the engine on a
stand,
>I'd still go the dissy route
>Grumpy
>
>
>| I like the "cut you own wheel" idea with the Crane, very clever.
>| However, if I am going to go DIS, would it be that much harder to
>| make a wheel for the crank pulley  and use some kind of pickup down
there?
>Is there one you especially like?  Thanks in advance.
>| Jim

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 09:24:50 -0500
From: "jtyler" <jtyler@ga.prestige.net>
Subject: Re: GMECM and Crank Sensors

For yet another project, is there a nice reliable, relatively easy to mount
crank sensor that interfaces easily to the GM ECM's you favor?  
In this case a dist is not an option.  

I have provisions to build a mount, make/adapt a crank wheel of some type or
precisely install magnets in a pulley or even a flywheel.

Does the GM DIS have 5 or 6k rpm limits, something I read somewhere
indicated that, but they may have been talking about HEI coils?  All this
stuff I am playing with needs to make it 
to 6.5K, the race app at least 8500.  

Dopey

>about the DIS, I'll scan a diagram showing the notches/offset/which notch
>| >fires which coil pack etc..
>| >Grumpy
>
>------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 12:11:58 -0600
From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
Subject: Re: Knock sensor on Dyno

> Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 15:00:32 -0800 (PST)
> From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #14:Knock sensor on Dyno
> 
> Bruce,
> I believe that the sensors are built to be sensitive
> to specific frequencies, to minimize false trigger,
> etc. In other words, they are specific to a given
> engine.
> 
> I have been working with freeware audio spectrum
> analyzer program that uses the sound card on a PC. By
> connecting a wide band microphone to the motor, and
> then simulating knock (resembles pounding on the block
> with a hammer or broomstick), the characteristic
> frequencies of a given motor can be determined. The
> resonant frequencies show up as spikes. If you can
> safely induce actual knock in the running motor, even
> better results.
> 
> Using that info, the PC software can be set up to look
> for knock signals for that specific motor.
> 
> All freeware, just need to bolt on a microphone
> (guitar mic?) Save the results on a floppy.
> 
> YMMV, I'm just playing with it right now.

Carter -- what is this software called and where is it available from? 
This is very interesting.

- --steve


- -- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

------------------------------

End of DIY_EFI Digest V5 #16
****************************

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 11 20:04:26 2000
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Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 17:04:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #16:Knock Sensor
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu,
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Some requests for the software I'm playing with.
It's a program called 'spectragraph', available for
download at: www.monumental.com/rshorne/gram.html

There may be other better ones out there, but this one
seemed to fit my needs.

If this works, maybe we could keep a library of 'knock
signatures' by engine.

There's an app note for a chip that does FFT for KS,
but maybe overkill; if you can find the fundamental
resonant knock freq with better than 6 dB S/N ratio,
why look any further? 

On the other hand, multiple mics and holographic audio
imaging could allow you to pinpoint not just knock to
the individual cylinder, but maybe detect impending
bearing failures etc. before they go catastrophic.
What about an 'active' electronic crankshaft damper
that attenuates 'on the fly'.

Oops, sorry for the geek out. Anyway.

I wonder what kinds of things might influence the
knock signature? Maybe forged vs cast crank? Certainly
aluminum vs cast iron block/heads. Maybe the intake
manifold or headers. Aluminum flywheel? Different
crank dampers? Would the KS change if you used filler
in the water jackets? What about just bore/stroke
changes? Operating temperature? Manual vs auto trans?

Lot's of questions, no answers yet. Might be it just
doesn't matter. We'll see. Could be fun.

Carter

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 11 20:04:27 2000
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Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 17:04:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #16:Knock Sensor
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu,
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Some requests for the software I'm playing with.
It's a program called 'spectragraph', available for
download at: www.monumental.com/rshorne/gram.html

There may be other better ones out there, but this one
seemed to fit my needs.

If this works, maybe we could keep a library of 'knock
signatures' by engine.

There's an app note for a chip that does FFT for KS,
but maybe overkill; if you can find the fundamental
resonant knock freq with better than 6 dB S/N ratio,
why look any further? 

On the other hand, multiple mics and holographic audio
imaging could allow you to pinpoint not just knock to
the individual cylinder, but maybe detect impending
bearing failures etc. before they go catastrophic.
What about an 'active' electronic crankshaft damper
that attenuates 'on the fly'.

Oops, sorry for the geek out. Anyway.

I wonder what kinds of things might influence the
knock signature? Maybe forged vs cast crank? Certainly
aluminum vs cast iron block/heads. Maybe the intake
manifold or headers. Aluminum flywheel? Different
crank dampers? Would the KS change if you used filler
in the water jackets? What about just bore/stroke
changes? Operating temperature? Manual vs auto trans?

Lot's of questions, no answers yet. Might be it just
doesn't matter. We'll see. Could be fun.

Carter

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 11 20:22:05 2000
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #16:Knock Sensor
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| If this works, maybe we could keep a library of 'knock
| signatures' by engine.

Sure seems like putting alot of effort into a dead ended subject, thou
The basic flaw with all this is that all the stuff you mention below effects
an acoustic sensor.  An acoustic sensor, is a half hearted attempt at knock
detection, since so many items can false trigger it.  Why not work on a Ion
knock detection strategy.  Something that looks for any knock on any engine,
rather then some feable side effects of detonation.
|
| There's an app note for a chip that does FFT for KS,
| but maybe overkill; if you can find the fundamental
| resonant knock freq with better than 6 dB S/N ratio,
| why look any further?
|
| On the other hand, multiple mics and holographic audio
| imaging could allow you to pinpoint not just knock to
| the individual cylinder, but maybe detect impending
| bearing failures etc. before they go catastrophic.
| What about an 'active' electronic crankshaft damper
| that attenuates 'on the fly'.

Listen for enough noises, adn the thing will always be triggering.
|
| Oops, sorry for the geek out. Anyway.
|
| I wonder what kinds of things might influence the
| knock signature? Maybe forged vs cast crank? Certainly
| aluminum vs cast iron block/heads. Maybe the intake
| manifold or headers. Aluminum flywheel? Different
| crank dampers? Would the KS change if you used filler
| in the water jackets? What about just bore/stroke
| changes? Operating temperature? Manual vs auto trans?

And most any mechanical lifter cam drives it into fits.......
Oh well.
Grumpy
|
| Lot's of questions, no answers yet. Might be it just
| doesn't matter. We'll see. Could be fun.
|
| Carter
|
| __________________________________________________
| Do You Yahoo!?
| Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
| http://im.yahoo.com
|


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 11 22:40:13 2000
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Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 19:37:04 -0800
From: Bill Sundahl <bsundahl@ix.netcom.com>
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Take a look at
http://home.netcom.com/~bsundahl/knock/sound/KnockSounds.htm

This shows some of the work that I have done on recording and analyzing
the signal off of an Eagle Talon knock sensor.  The sensor does not
seem to be "tuned" that I can tell, it's just a wide band microphone.
I am assuming that the GM sensors are very similar.

The Talon uses a fancy filter circuit inside the ECU to detect knock, 
but I have never been able to figure out exactly what it looks for 
in the signal.

-Bill

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   It seems this discussion has illustrated two separate camps on the Knock
sensor issue: the "simple microphone camp" and the "far more complicated camp".
No offense intended for either group. For those in the  "simple microphone"
camp,  MSD makes a universal knock sensor with an LED bar graph and alarm.
Summit Racing sells it for about $150. It has adjustment for sensitivity and
volume.  It comes with a threaded "microphone" and an adapter to fit different
size holes.  I'm not sure of the manufacturer or availability of the microphone
alone. (if someone knows, please tell me, I need to replace mine).  It appears
to be working on my application, but I'm sure its not as good as it could be,
and I certainly wouldn't tune an engine by it. But when there was a problem it
has warned me of it before I could actually hear the detonation.  Perhaps
everyone knows about this device but no one mentioned it due to a consensus that
it is junk. If so, I apologize.
Rod



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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #17
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Thanks.  OOOH My wife has a Tahoe,  where is that ECM?
Yet another way to piss her off!

My GM literature is on the way! That should answer some of the more basic questions and prompt alot more. 

Jim


 
From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net> 
Subject: Re: GMECM and Crank Sensors 

First one that jumps to mind is the late vortec. 
You really need to find a parts house that has some catalogs with 
photos for part ID'ing.   They do exist from Delco, and Standard Electronics. 
            
Grumpy 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 12 09:46:13 2000
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Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 19:23:15 +0000
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: Knock Sensor on Dyno
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At 05:00 11/01/00 -0500, you wrote:
>> 
>> 	Knock Sensor on Dyno
>> 
>> See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
>> DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.
>> 
>> I am currently building a eddy current dynamometer for testing small
engines
>> up to 70 ft lbs of torque. I am working on the instrumentation now and I
was
>> reading the archive and started thinking about knock sensing.
>
>> like to use a sensor out of the junkyard to keep costs down so any ideas of
>> which one would suit me the best (partial to GM parts)?
>
>The one problem that comes to mind if you were using the GM knock sensors
>is the sonic qualities of knocking in your small engine. From what I've
>read, the knock sensor is tuned to specifically hear+amplify the
>characteristic knock sound for that bore diameter, and block. GM has had
>several different knock sensors, and even had a different one for the LT1
>and LT4, even though they have the same dimensions (LT4 was supposedly a
>little noisier). If you have the same bore, then I guess the knock would
>sound similar.

If it was me I would just plant a microphone somewhere on the block then
use software to sort out what is and what isn't just like humans do....
Much easier to do than tuning sensors... the amount you pay for Hi-fi
Microphones/speakers is testament to this.

Ade


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 12 10:25:06 2000
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Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 07:24:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #17:Knock sensor, etc.
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu,
        DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Thanks Bruce, 
I had not thought about noise contribution from mech
valvetrain. And of course, IGOR will allow some very
accurate knock detection, but I didn't think it was
available yet.
Here's a Q, do you know how/if GM systems handle false
KS trigger, vs RPM?
For example, say an ECU has a KS sensitive to say,
4,000 Hz. Frequency of bormal internal noise from the
motor varies with RPM, so at some RPM, it will also
create 4,000 Hz noise that would trigger the KS. Does
the code ignore KS at certain RPM?

Bill, I looked at your site, it's good stuff. I had
seen the app note, was looking for a simpler (lazy and
cheap) way to do it. Plus, if my motor's knock
signature matched a stock unit, I could just use off
the shelf stuff. 

I downloaded your knocking WAV file, to play with.
I did not see a display where you had examined the
signal in 'line' or 'bar' mode. This would show up any
resonant freq and harmonics as spikes, much easier to
pick out specific components of a sound. Requires a
sound card in PC, so I'll have to wait 'till I get
home to try it.

Does anyone have access to a supply of different KS?
It might be useful to document the resonant freq and
output levels of various stock parts. Just need a
signal generator and a scope (or Spectrograph). I'll
volunteer to run the tests, if we can work out a way
to ship the units. Some details to hash out if any
interest.

Thanks all,

Carter
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 12 10:25:12 2000
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From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #17:Knock sensor, etc.
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu,
        DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Thanks Bruce, 
I had not thought about noise contribution from mech
valvetrain. And of course, IGOR will allow some very
accurate knock detection, but I didn't think it was
available yet.
Here's a Q, do you know how/if GM systems handle false
KS trigger, vs RPM?
For example, say an ECU has a KS sensitive to say,
4,000 Hz. Frequency of bormal internal noise from the
motor varies with RPM, so at some RPM, it will also
create 4,000 Hz noise that would trigger the KS. Does
the code ignore KS at certain RPM?

Bill, I looked at your site, it's good stuff. I had
seen the app note, was looking for a simpler (lazy and
cheap) way to do it. Plus, if my motor's knock
signature matched a stock unit, I could just use off
the shelf stuff. 

I downloaded your knocking WAV file, to play with.
I did not see a display where you had examined the
signal in 'line' or 'bar' mode. This would show up any
resonant freq and harmonics as spikes, much easier to
pick out specific components of a sound. Requires a
sound card in PC, so I'll have to wait 'till I get
home to try it.

Does anyone have access to a supply of different KS?
It might be useful to document the resonant freq and
output levels of various stock parts. Just need a
signal generator and a scope (or Spectrograph). I'll
volunteer to run the tests, if we can work out a way
to ship the units. Some details to hash out if any
interest.

Thanks all,

Carter
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 12 14:06:23 2000
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To: gmecm@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 12:03:44 -0700
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Subject: injectors
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I have a couple of injectors that I need flow rates for.  I have looked 
around and have found nothing.  Maybe the people on the list could 
help.  Here are the numbers:
Bosch 0 280 150 209
Bosch 0 280 150 902
Siemens 4418474
 
With this, what is the formula to get sec/gram from #/hr or 
grams/sec.  I haven't messed with this stuff that much.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 12 14:11:49 2000
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From: "Daniel R. Henriksson" <rotax@ludd.luth.se>
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Subject: MC6803U4 info...
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 100 20:11:41 +0100 (MET)
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Hi

I'm in the process of reverse-engineering a Weber/Marelli ECU (IAW048/01)
and i need to clarify some things about the CPU.
Does anyone know the difference between the 6803C and the 6803U4?
After digging on the net i have found out that the 6803U4 has an
additional 64 bytes of onboard RAM at 0x40-0x7f. 
But i suspect there is some other differences, what about timer
capabilities, there is a new SFR at 0x18 that's supposedly a
timer control register, anyone know the specs. for that register?

If anyone has any additional information then please inform me!

Some of my findings can be viewed at:
http://www.ludd.luth.se/~rotax/

BR
 Daniel Henriksson
 rotax@ludd.luth.se


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 12 18:10:51 2000
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #17:Knock sensor, etc.
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| Thanks Bruce,
| I had not thought about noise contribution from mech
| valvetrain. And of course, IGOR will allow some very
| accurate knock detection, but I didn't think it was
| available yet.

IGOR, no, but SAAB's been using it for years.

| Here's a Q, do you know how/if GM systems handle false
| KS trigger, vs RPM?

Nope they don't handle vs rpm, 800 rpm, 2000, 4000, 8000,  if it's set for
4,000Hz, and hears the right sound off goes the timing.  I've seen cars set
12d retard wile cranking.

That's also why I consider acoustic sensors as a joke, and not to be trused.

| For example, say an ECU has a KS sensitive to say,
| 4,000 Hz. Frequency of bormal internal noise from the
| motor varies with RPM, so at some RPM, it will also
| create 4,000 Hz noise that would trigger the KS. Does
| the code ignore KS at certain RPM?

See above.
Grumpy



From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 12 18:24:16 2000
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Subject: Re: Knock sensor on dyno
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 18:31:08 -0500
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What you call AE Enrichment noise might be trace detonation  (gm uses a
"burst knock table to cover this situation in some applications)
Grumpy


| Take a look at
| http://home.netcom.com/~bsundahl/knock/sound/KnockSounds.htm
|
| This shows some of the work that I have done on recording and analyzing
| the signal off of an Eagle Talon knock sensor.  The sensor does not
| seem to be "tuned" that I can tell, it's just a wide band microphone.
| I am assuming that the GM sensors are very similar.
|
| The Talon uses a fancy filter circuit inside the ECU to detect knock,
| but I have never been able to figure out exactly what it looks for
| in the signal.
|
| -Bill
|


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To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Injector Sizes for CrossFire
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 17:32:52 -0600
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Does anyone know what the difference between the two actually is? Or the
reasoning why they had two different sized injectors?

Ken Kelly (#2)


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Subject: Re: Injector Sizes for CrossFire
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As I recall 4-5 lbs/hr..  The diference in size was due to the fact one ran
with the fuel pressure regulator, andf the other with the accumulator.
Grumpy

| Does anyone know what the difference between the two actually is? Or the
| reasoning why they had two different sized injectors?
| Ken Kelly (#2)



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| Well it certainly pays to ask first.  Thanks a bunch.
| I could always go to a crank wheel later after all the otherstuff
| is sorted out, but for street use I certainly don't need to.
| I just wanted to eliminate the dist if possible.
| So back to the Crane.  What electrical input is the ecm looking for
| from the trigger wheel?

Crank, and cam sensor wire into the DIS module.  On some PCMs the sensor
goes directly to the pcm.
  So an ecm doesn't look for a signal from the sensor
Now the input to the DIS varies, by type some are Hall effect sensors, and
some are reluctor.  So you gotta figure out what ya got, and work from
there.
Grumpy

| Do I build a circuit to condition the Crane box output to the GM ecm,
| or do you need to make a new driver for the optical sensor itself and have
it trigger the ecm directly?  Has someone been down this path...sounds like?

Your going to need to go from the coil trigger output of the crank to the
sensor input to the DIS, and again it varies.

| If you can send me the wheel drawing that would be great.  If a fax
| is less effort let me know.  BTW there is absolutely no rush on this.
| I am one of those "Blessed" with too many projects.
| Dopey




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Subject: injector questions - sleepless in Seattle
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ok, got some injector questions.

I have an 1800 cc, (1798) motor, (77 mgb) 90 hp, saimsed intake ports, I
think the stromberg cd was 
something like 200 cfm but I might be wrong.

I am going to put 2 injectors in it. and an air mass sensor.

the donor efi car used 4 bosch injectors for 2300 cc
according to the data I could find on the web,
the motor (b230f), used a 0 280 150 762 bosch injector. these had fuel
rails,
and are listed as 214 cc per minute, or 21 lbs per hour.
and a chart at www.wolfems.com.au/injector_flow_rates.htm tells me that
these injectors were
good for 42.8 hp each.

 I can't remember the actual rail pressure in their natural environment, (86
240dl). standard bosch jet-jh




so if I scale it up a bit , and for argument's sake use the volume of the
injectors that I have.
(they were all batch fired btw).

I would then need to get 2 injectors that were low impedance, to make them
look like bosch injectors to the ecm, and they would have to have a flow
rate of 428 cc per minute or 42 lbs per hour.

question 1 : does this math sound correct ? I wonder about this because they
were batch fired. this means that they were fired when there was no benefit
to do so, the expended fuel must of gone somewhere. I can't work out the
math in my head to take into account the batch-fired effect.

ok well, I am going to use the msd epoxy injector mounts, I think that these
are made for GM mounting specs. or am I misreading their fuel injection
catalog incorrectly ? it seems that you can use their injectors to replace
gm injectors, if that's the case I'm assuming a gm injector will fit in
their mount. no one that I can tell, makes mounts like this for bosch
injectors, besides the bosch injectors used a fuel rail anyway, I really
liked the flexible fuel hose hardware from msd.
the angles of the injectors would preclude a normal fuel rail.

I can't find an msd injector that does 42 lbs per hour. they jump from 34 to
50 lb/hr.
where would I find a gm parts list that rates stock gm injectors by flow
volume/impedance ?
  
question 2:

or am I digging a hole for myself ? the ecm I have is going to think it's
talking to a specific environment, i.e. stock rail pressure, combined flow
volume etc.

as usual thanks for your expert advice.

Ted





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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 13 00:02:36 2000
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Thanks for all the great things to think about! I like the
microphone/software idea, this would allow me to analyze a dyno run. Not
just for knock but what ever else I could see or figureout. More data to
look at. Unfortunatly, I can't at this time put data acquisition on the dyno
due to lack of $$$'s so I am looking for "cheap" ways of doing things. Sorry
for the lack of Fuel injection content but it did spark some thoughts.

"the other Bruce"


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Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 22:49:16 -0800
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Hi 

I am running the efi332 two layer cpu board and the i/o board in my car.
Just
doing spark, boost control for the moment. I am picking the signal off
of the distributor with the TPU PPWA, and setting advance, retard, and
turbo boost. No problems with cpu board yet but still looking..

I am using a map sensor from a mid 80's (chrysler,dodge,plymouth) turbo
K car. There are a lot of these cars in the wrecking yards. This is a
one
atmosphere boost unit. It has a ground wire, 5 volt supply wire and a
sense wire. Measured data:

         Pressure     output volts
          30" hg        .56
          15" hg       1.30 
           0           2.47
           5psi        3.25
          10psi        4.13
          15psi        5.00


Under boost I have noticed that my car has a tendency to ping more at
3000 rpm , which I would guess is the tuned configuration of the motor.
So boost and/or timing can be reduced. If the timing is reduced to
prevent any detonation, and the boost is left alone. It will generate
spectacular boost numbers and it runs strong. But it runs about the same
when I reduce the timing a little bit and limit the boost. So it looks
like there are two different ways to get to the same point. So what is
the best way to tune a turbocharger motor? I would guess reducing the
timing a little, and then limit boost to prevent detonation... 

Also I have noticed that GM spark rpm/load tables arrays seem to be 16
bytes wide, even when its a Grand National turbo motor. It seems like
that if its a one atmosphere map unit the table should be 32 bytes wide
for the same resolution. Any comments on this one?

My car is a 4 cyl turbocharger Saab, dual overhead cams, four valves per
cylinder, with intercooler.. not bad for a stock 1989 car. Its not a
performance car, its heavy and the transmission is weak, but it is an
interesting platform to fool around with. 


                                Aloha Greg


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 13 09:23:04 2000
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Subject: Re: Turbo motor
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|
| Under boost I have noticed that my car has a tendency to ping more at
| 3000 rpm , which I would guess is the tuned configuration of the motor.
| So boost and/or timing can be reduced. If the timing is reduced to
| prevent any detonation, and the boost is left alone. It will generate
| spectacular boost numbers and it runs strong. But it runs about the same
| when I reduce the timing a little bit and limit the boost. So it looks
| like there are two different ways to get to the same point. So what is
| the best way to tune a turbocharger motor? I would guess reducing the
| timing a little, and then limit boost to prevent detonation...

There's never a good reason to burn more fuel then what the engine needs.
All the extra carbon has to go somewhere.  If you do EGT's AFR and Plug
reading they all should point to one being better than another.

| Also I have noticed that GM spark rpm/load tables arrays seem to be 16
| bytes wide, even when its a Grand National turbo motor. It seems like
| that if its a one atmosphere map unit the table should be 32 bytes wide
| for the same resolution. Any comments on this one?

Well, they been running the Buicks since 86 with the intercooler, and making
good HP.  The syclones since 91.  I'd say that the resolution is good
enough.
Ya, might be nicer, but as far as necessary, that's your call.  To me 19
would be perfect, @ 500rpm steps.
   The big isue is running the right MAP so you don't run out of
CALIBRATION.
If ya run 14 PSI of boost run a 2bar MAP.  If you run 18 use a 3 bar MAP.
That's how I see things
Grumpy



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 13 15:45:43 2000
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Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 14:41:59 -0600
From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
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Got this email from a WWW browser.  Not sure exactly what he's trying to
build, but it sounds like an interesting project.  Please reply to him
directly since he's not on the list.

--steve

TobyTraut@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Sir,
> 
> I wandered across your DIY EFI page tonight, and thought that someone may be
> interested in a project I would like to try.
> 
> I own a turbo-jet powered drag car. I have eliminated the stock
> hydro-mechanical fuel control, and replaced it with an electronic pressure
> control through the stock mechanical injectors.
> 
> I have recently become interested in electronics, and would like to build a
> true feedback fuel control, and also get rid of the mechanical overspeed
> governer, while also maybe incorporating a data-logger. This is a pretty
> overwhelming project for a beginner.
> 
> This car has run the quarter mile in 4.97 seconds, at over 314 mph, and
> perhaps it would make an interesting project for an electronic engineering
> student. I can't afford to hire someone to do it, but I think I can afford to
> pay for materials.
> 
> Perhaps even if someone would just want to design a system, I could try my
> hand at assembly.
> 
> If anyone is interested, they can e-mail me at Tobytraut@aol.com. I have
> attached a photo of the car, it's not very good, but it is the only one I
> have scanned.
> 
> Thank You,
> 
> Toby Ehrmantraut
> Odyssey Jet

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 13 19:49:08 2000
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</unlurk> (as seen somewhere else)

Harris makes (or used to make) a chip called
an Engine Knock Signal Processor. The part
number is HIP9010 and you can easily get
a hold of the data sheets with their
Automatic FaxBack system at 407-724-7800.

It uses two piezo sensors and switches
one for sensing knock and the other to 
cancel background noise. The chip will
subtract the background noise and filter
based on the parameters sent to the chip.
Hookup is via an SPI bus and you can program 
reference filter frequency, knock filter 
frequency and a bunch of other things.
I haven't used it but from the data sheet,
it looked like pretty comprehensive. Good
reading.

Regards to all,                 B.Robert

</lurk>

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Subject: Re: Knock sensor chip from Harris
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I tried tracking it down one time, and they had discontinued it, and the
there was supposedly one available from France, and never got anywhere with
it.  If anyone has a lead on this I'd like to hear about it.   Course I
never have any luck with ICs.
Grumpy

| </unlurk> (as seen somewhere else)
| Harris makes (or used to make) a chip called
| an Engine Knock Signal Processor. The part
| number is HIP9010 and you can easily get
| a hold of the data sheets with their
| Automatic FaxBack system at 407-724-7800.
| It uses two piezo sensors and switches
| one for sensing knock and the other to
| cancel background noise. The chip will
| subtract the background noise and filter
| based on the parameters sent to the chip.
| Hookup is via an SPI bus and you can program
| reference filter frequency, knock filter
| frequency and a bunch of other things.
| I haven't used it but from the data sheet,
| it looked like pretty comprehensive. Good
| reading.
| Regards to all,                 B.Robert



From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 14 10:54:23 2000
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Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 10:07:41 -0500
From: Jim Fitzgerald <jfitz@fnal.gov>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI V5 #21, Knock S.
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Harris is now Intersil, for the HIP9010/11 knock sensor info go to:
www.intersil.com/auto/engine.asp#KNOCK
I also found hundreds of the parts on the surplus market.
Jim F.

From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan 15 15:09:39 2000
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Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 12:09:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
Subject: MSD fuel injection parts
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Help,
I've searched all over the net for MSD fuel injection 
site, all I can get is the MSD Ignition site, and
can't find any FI stuff there.
Can someone please email me the URL?

(esearch challenged)
Carter

clshore@yahoo.com
__________________________________________________
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Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan 15 16:43:03 2000
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From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
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Subject: source for larger Viper injectors?
Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 16:48:11 -0500
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Does anyone know of a source for larger injectors for the Dodge Viper? They
use "bottom feed" Siemens injectors (high impedance) and I can't seem to
find larger injectors anywhere. The 1996 and newer GTS (1997 and newer RT10)
cars seem to have larger injectors than the older cars did but I need bigger
still.

Thanks,

Jason




From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan 16 01:27:08 2000
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Subject: Spark timing
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G'day all,
I'm fairly new to this news group, I've been lurking for about a week, and
I've got a question about ECUs in general. I'm currently building an EFI
computer for my 83 Pusar Exa turbo, and have the fuel running great,
currently I'm working on spark.

Question is: How do most ECUs for turbo cars handle spark timing? My car
does not have a MAP sensor as standard, so it could only determine by
airflow/rpm. It also doesn't have a throttle position sensor, just a switch
which closes when the throttle is fully closed. Do they just have a lookup
table (map) as for fuel? Or do they have a certain amount of base timing,
then an algorithm to determine centrifugal advance and vacuum advance/boost
retard? There is nothing in the Nissan manual about it; all it says is that
it runs 15 degrees advance at idle (pretty high, I thought). Would it be
less during cranking? Anyone ever mapped ignition timing for a 1.5L turbo
engine?

Also, is there any advantage of sequential injection over group fire other
than the increased atomisation you'd expect from injecting the fuel while
the air is flowing through the inlet port? I heard someone tried swapping
the injector leads from a sequential injection engine around so they were
all wrong, and dynoed it to find there was no difference in power output,
just in emissions at idle...

Any help would be greatly appreciated
Andy W :-D


From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan 16 09:33:18 2000
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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 09:32:42 EST
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #23
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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>  G'day all,
>  I'm fairly new to this news group, I've been lurking for about a week, and
>  I've got a question about ECUs in general. I'm currently building an EFI
>  computer for my 83 Pusar Exa turbo, and have the fuel running great,
>  currently I'm working on spark.

Greetings Andy,
it's great to have you aboard..   
There are two ways that the GM turbo 
car ECMs handle timing.

1. Without using a MAP sensor, they rely on mass air flow & RPM 
numbers to determine engine load (LV8).  in the maf systems, they 
assume "high air flow" + "low rpm" must
mean that the engine is heavily loaded.  
The chip has a timing table that uses LV8 & RPM lookups.

2. With the MAP sensor system, they use a MAP vs RPM table
for the lookups.  
Each system has its strong / weak points. 
HTH
Mike V
.  
 

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan 16 15:37:45 2000
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From: clive@problem.org (Clive Apps - 510-0020 )
Subject: Vortec 4.3 & 747
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 15:39:38 -0500 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <200001162000.PAA16066@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu> from "DIY_EFI Digest" at Jan 16, 0 03:00:01 pm
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anyone ever swapped a 4.3 late model ~@00hp Vortec into a 86 Vintage 
vehicle with a 727 and 4.3 original

what cals di you use in the 747

Thanks
Clive

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan 16 15:44:03 2000
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From: "Scott Croughwell" <scott@outwest.net>
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Subject: Knock on turbo motor.
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 01:33:46 -0800
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Hi guys,

Been a lurker on the Digest for a while, and decided I'd speak up some.  :-)

> | Under boost I have noticed that my car has a tendency to ping more at
> | 3000 rpm , which I would guess is the tuned configuration of the motor.

I don't know what kind of car you're driving, but I'd be willing to bet you
have your EGR disconnected.  That will cause knock at certain RPM (depending
on car) even under light loads.  The knock is caused by a lack of exhaust
flow back to the intake which cools the fresh charge.

Scott



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan 16 16:53:12 2000
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Subject: Re: Knock on turbo motor.
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Oh that makes sense
Grumpy
  Not


| > | Under boost I have noticed that my car has a tendency to ping more at
| > | 3000 rpm , which I would guess is the tuned configuration of the
motor.
|
| I don't know what kind of car you're driving, but I'd be willing to bet
you
| have your EGR disconnected.  That will cause knock at certain RPM
(depending
| on car) even under light loads.  The knock is caused by a lack of exhaust
| flow back to the intake which cools the fresh charge.
| Scott



From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan 16 17:46:54 2000
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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 16:45:27 -0600
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Hello all,
	I am new to the list, but like everyone I want to build a EFI for my
car.  I have read through the archives and I just have a few questions. 
I am also new to the Microcontroller world (Haven't bought anything yet,
just a lot of reading) and the likes, so please bear with me.  It seems
that the MicroChips are the easiest to start learning on. Am I correct
on this?  I would like to update the program via my laptop, so which
chip series might be the best?  What books or software hardware etc etc
would I need. I know a lot about cars, just not the electronic stuff
just yet, but I am willing to learn.  Any help would be apreciated. And
if it matters, I am going to put the EFI on a 1971 Chevelle w/ a 498"
Nitrous breathing rat motor for Drag Racing only, and maybe put the EFI
on my TR7 when I drop the 5.2l rover v8 into it...Thanks!!

Lee

From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan 16 18:56:26 2000
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@idirect.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: MSD Fuel Injection
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 18:56:38 -0800
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They do not have a "web presence".  You have to call them @ MSD's main phone
number, and request their catalogue through the mail.  The catalogue is
rather thin, but contains a lot of neat stuff.

Walt.



>Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 12:09:37 -0800 (PST)
>From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
>Subject: MSD fuel injection parts
>
>Help,
>I've searched all over the net for MSD fuel injection
>site, all I can get is the MSD Ignition site, and
>can't find any FI stuff there.
>Can someone please email me the URL?
>
>(esearch challenged)
>Carter



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 17 13:13:56 2000
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Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 14:47:33 +0000
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: Lamda sensor mounting
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Hi,

I am running a Mini with a highly tuned A series engine (100bhp from a
1.3litre). It has a carb and Distributer but I am thinking about adding a
Lamda sensor with a dash mounted gauge so that I can Keep an eye on the
mixture.

Where in the exhaust system is the best place to mount the sensor? Close to
the head? 6ft down the exhaust? I have a Long center branch exhaust
manifold which doesn't bring the ports together for about 3ft after the
cylinder head. The manifold is also new (and expensive) so I would prefur
to mount is in the exhaust if it doesn't affect the reading.

I plan to get a sensor from a car in a scrap yard are there any UK (comon)
makes of cars that have better Lamda sensor than others?

In the UK they recently banned Leaded petrol. They made Lead replacement
petrol available to 'replace' it. Does LRP clog lamba sensors like Leaded
petrol does? I can run Unleaded but LRP has Higher Octane rating than
Unleaded and is cheaper than Super Unleaded.

Thanks,

Ade


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 17 14:46:37 2000
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From: "Gareth Jones" <garethjones@lycosmail.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Lambda Value
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 19:47:02 -0000
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Hi,

I'm new to this game and I'm aiming to start small with a mixture meter,
driven by an O2 sensor. I have a lot of information on lambda sensor output
values, particularly voltage against lambda value. I know that lambda 1.0 is
equivalent to 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio. What I really need to know is what
lambda values relate to other air/fuel ratios, particularly in the area of
12.5:1 - 13:1.

Does anybody have the answers, or can anybody point me in the direction of
some relevant web resources?

TIA

Gareth Jones



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 17 16:22:02 2000
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Subject: Re: Lambda Value
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 16:29:07 -0500
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Been covered a thousand times in the archives.   Also, I'd at one time poted
some dream voltages there for the gm 1-2 wire sensors.  You'll understand
the term dream after reading the posts.
Grumpy


| I'm new to this game and I'm aiming to start small with a mixture meter,
| driven by an O2 sensor. I have a lot of information on lambda sensor
output
| values, particularly voltage against lambda value. I know that lambda 1.0
is
| equivalent to 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio. What I really need to know is what
| lambda values relate to other air/fuel ratios, particularly in the area of
| 12.5:1 - 13:1.
| Does anybody have the answers, or can anybody point me in the direction of
| some relevant web resources?
| Gareth Jones



From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 17 21:05:42 2000
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Date: 18 Jan 2000 14:54:53 +1200
From: "Tom Parker" <parkert@ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Lamda sensor mounting
To: "Ade + Lamb Chop" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk> wrote:

>Where in the exhaust system is the best place to mount the sensor? Close to
>the head? 6ft down the exhaust? I have a Long center branch exhaust
>manifold which doesn't bring the ports together for about 3ft after the
>cylinder head. The manifold is also new (and expensive) so I would prefur
>to mount is in the exhaust if it doesn't affect the reading.

I have a mini also, and mine is mounted just after the branches of the exhaust
manifold come together. I use a heated sensor and without the heater it
doesn't read at idle, or low cruise. With the heater it seems to work at all
power outputs though.

--
Tom Parker - parkert@ihug.co.nz
           - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 17 21:18:16 2000
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From: Andy Wyatt <andyw@matra.com.au>
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Regarding Gareth's question about O2 sensors..

I know a very little about EGO sensors, which I learnt from an article in
Silicon Chip electronics magazine (in Oz), November 1995. It show a graph of
voltage against Lambda for a "typical" sensor. It says with a lambda of
0.94, it will develop a voltage of a bit over 0.9V. The graph isn't very
well calibrated, so it ain't very useful, but from what I can tell your
typical EGO sensor is only really accurate around stoic. Even then there is
hysteresis, which means that the curve you trace out is a different shape
when going from rich to lean from the curve going from lean to rich. The
graph is VERY steep around stoic point, then it becomes quite flat at lambda
values below 0.96 and above 1.05.

This is only for a typical EGO sensor, which is only designed to work around
stoic, so that EFI cars can keep their emissions down. You can get wideband
EGO sensors, which are fairly expensive, from what I hear.

If it's any encouragement, though, I've just tuned my ECU by using an EGO
sensor which I got from a wrecker (actually it was free, it was on the
exhaust manifold of an engine I bought), and though I have no idea of how
accurate it is, it seemed to work OK.

Have a good one
Andy W :-D


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 17 21:18:19 2000
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From: Andy Wyatt <andyw@matra.com.au>
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Regarding William Brennan's idea about building an ECU.

>     I am new to the list, but like everyone I want to build a EFI for my
> car.  I have read through the archives and I just have a few questions. 
> I am also new to the Microcontroller world (Haven't bought anything yet,
> just a lot of reading) and the likes, so please bear with me.  It seems
> that the MicroChips are the easiest to start learning on. Am I correct
> on this?
Yeah, I s'pose so. If you're talking about PICs, you're probably right. You
can get C compilers, Assemblers, Simulators and even BASIC compilers for the
PICs off the net somewhere or other. I'm not sure that a PIC will have the
processing power you require, though. If you're gonna use a lookup table
(fuel map) you'll need a fair bit of ROM. Most of the smaller PICs only have
512 bytes or so. You may be better off using a 68HC11, which has lots of
stuff built in, like several A/D channels, timers and so on, which are all
useful on EFI ECUs.

>  I would like to update the program via my laptop, so which
> chip series might be the best?
You'll need something with EEPROM on it. You can get development boards for
the 68HC11 with 32kB of static RAM, and 32kB of EEPROM, and you just connect
them to your PC to reload the ROM.

> What books or software hardware etc etc would I need.
All the stuff I used for my computer was commonly available. It helps if you
know your micro inside out, so start off with some projects involving the
micro you're going to use, then play with them until you fully understand
the micro. Otherwise you'll just need to learn all about the sensors and
actuators you're going to use on your engine (ie what voltage the sensors
give out under different conditions, how to drive the injectors etc) and of
course you'll have to figure out an algorithm to determine how much fuel to
inject, and spark timing as well (unless  you're going to use the old
ignition system..) Most of this you can find out as you go (as I did),
provided you are cluey and take measurements. With my EFI conversion (from
factory EFI to my own EFI) the way I got a basic idea of fuel maps was to
hook up a datalogger to the factory EFI computer, and drive around, and log
the duty cycle under various conditions.

> I know a lot about cars, just not the electronic stuff just yet, but I am
willing to learn.  Any help would be apreciated.
A basic understanding of electronics is essential if you're going to build
an ECU. A detailed understanding would be very helpful. Even then you'll be
continually learning as you discover new things about the bits you're
playing with. It's a long project - be warned..
> And if it matters, I am going to put the EFI on a 1971 Chevelle w/ a 498"
> Nitrous breathing rat motor for Drag Racing only, and maybe put the EFI
> on my TR7 when I drop the 5.2l rover v8 into it...Thanks!!
A TR7 with an EFI 5.2L V8 should go allright...

Good luck
Andy W :-D


From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 17 21:50:36 2000
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From: Simon Quested <questeds@whio.lincoln.ac.nz>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #25
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> The knock is caused by a lack of exhaust flow back to
> the intake which cools the fresh charge.

How does the hot exhaust gas cool the fresh charge.... Or have I got this 
wrong and you mean that the exhaust gas isn't heating the cool intake 
charge and the cold intake charge is causing the detonation????

Either way I'd be very surprised if lack of ERG had anything to do with 
increased detonation.  
 
> Oh that makes sense
> Grumpy
>   Not

Positive as ever eh Grumpy =-)

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 18 00:58:46 2000
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Thanks. 

Good information. I wasn't sure if a bigger table would be 
beneficial or not. Great to hear from somebody who has 
been there..
                 Thanks Greg

<snip>  

>Well, they been running the Buicks since 86 with the intercooler, and making
>good HP.  The syclones since 91.  I'd say that the resolution is good
>enough.
>Ya, might be nicer, but as far as necessary, that's your call.  To me 19
>would be perfect, @ 500rpm steps.
>   The big isue is running the right MAP so you don't run out of
>CALIBRATION.
>If ya run 14 PSI of boost run a 2bar MAP.  If you run 18 use a 3 bar MAP.
>That's how I see things
>Grumpy



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Subject: lambda sensors
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.85 LA would be 12.5:1 and .89 LA would be 13:1.  With a heated
lambda sensor I don't think placement matters at all.  I tried running
2 Bosch LSM-11 sensors on my Talon, 1 in the stock location just
after the turbo and one in the tailpipe.  The stock sensor is read by
the cars Motec ECU and the tailpipe sensor by a Fueltronics
handheld.  The readings agreed within 1% on a sensor rated for
1.5% accuracy.  Also as far as I know you cannot just read voltage
off a lambda sensor because of EGT compensation but I've never
tried it.  



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 18 10:41:10 2000
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Subject: Re: EGR and knock,was DIY_EFI Digest V5 #25
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> > The knock is caused by a lack of exhaust flow back to
> > the intake which cools the fresh charge.
> 
> How does the hot exhaust gas cool the fresh charge.... Or have I got this 
> wrong and you mean that the exhaust gas isn't heating the cool intake 
> charge and the cold intake charge is causing the detonation????
Actually, the exhaust gases dilute the mixture and make the combustion
temperatures lower. To compensate for the reduced speed of combustion,
extra timing advance is added by the ecm. If the ecm adds the timing and
the egr is not functioning, (this typically occurs at highway cruise
speeds) you can get continuous pinging which goes away when you step on
the gas.
-- 
Robert W. Hughes (Bob)
BackYard Engineering
29:40.237N, 95:28.726W
Houston, Texas
rwhughe@ev1.net

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 18 13:19:28 2000
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From: "Mendell, Richard" <RMendell@TacoBell.com>
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Cc: clive@problem.org
Subject: RE: Vortec 4.3 & 747
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 10:18:15 -0800
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Do you mean a 700R4? The 727 is a Mopar tranny and would require an adapter
(available from Advance Adapters, if that's really what you need).

If you have the 700R4, it's a pretty clean swap. The basic hook up is
identical and a donor vehicle should provide all the necessary parts.
Remember, even the HO 4.3 Vortec is still TBI, as I recall that most of the
'86 installations were as well, and the 700R4 soldiered on with even the HO
4.3 until '93 or '94. If you are dropping in the HO motor though, the tranny
will need upgrading to the late 700R4 standards, as the early ones (like
'86) were a bit weak. Kits are available to do this.

Cheers,
Richard P. Mendell
'91 GW ("The Yak"...150K...TBI Pending)
Long Beach, CA
"I never could get the hang of Thursdays." - A. Dent



> ----------
> From: 	clive@problem.org[SMTP:clive@problem.org]
> Sent: 	Sunday, 16 January, 2000 12:39 pm
> To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: 	Vortec 4.3 & 747
> 
> 
> 
> anyone ever swapped a 4.3 late model ~@00hp Vortec into a 86 Vintage 
> vehicle with a 727 and 4.3 original
> 
> what cals di you use in the 747
> 
> Thanks
> Clive
> 

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From: "Mendell, Richard" <RMendell@TacoBell.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Can't help you on the Drag car or computer, but EFi for the Rover 8 is easy.
Just remember that from the mid-Eighties on, that all Land Rovers featured a
EFI on the Rover/Buick 8.

Cheers!
Richard P. Mendell
'91 GW ("The Yak"...150K...EFI Pending)
Long Beach, CA
"I never could get the hang of Thursdays." - A. Dent


> ----------
> From: 	William Brennan[SMTP:STDBoy@worldnet.att.net]
> Sent: 	Sunday, 16 January, 2000 2:45 pm
> To: 	DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: 	New to the List.
> 
> Hello all,
> 	I am new to the list, but like everyone I want to build a EFI for my
> car.  I have read through the archives and I just have a few questions. 
> I am also new to the Microcontroller world (Haven't bought anything yet,
> just a lot of reading) and the likes, so please bear with me.  It seems
> that the MicroChips are the easiest to start learning on. Am I correct
> on this?  I would like to update the program via my laptop, so which
> chip series might be the best?  What books or software hardware etc etc
> would I need. I know a lot about cars, just not the electronic stuff
> just yet, but I am willing to learn.  Any help would be apreciated. And
> if it matters, I am going to put the EFI on a 1971 Chevelle w/ a 498"
> Nitrous breathing rat motor for Drag Racing only, and maybe put the EFI
> on my TR7 when I drop the 5.2l rover v8 into it...Thanks!!
> 
> Lee
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 18 14:57:04 2000
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From: "Scott Croughwell" <scott@outwest.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #27
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 11:57:04 -0800
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> How does the hot exhaust gas cool the fresh charge.... Or have I got this
> wrong and you mean that the exhaust gas isn't heating the cool intake
> charge and the cold intake charge is causing the detonation????

Believe it or not... the gasses coming from the EGR have had enough time to
cool enough so that the portion of exhaust temp re-entering the intake port
is cooler than the intake manifold.  (Thus, EGR valve only opens when the
engine is at "operating temperature".)  But if engine knock is only apparent
at something other than high engine loads and/or speeds... I'd be willing to
bet dimes to dollars it's due to the EGR being disconnected or inoperable.

Scott


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 18 15:44:53 2000
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From: "Gareth Jones" <garethjones@lycosmail.com>
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Subject: Re: Lamda sensor mounting
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 20:00:39 -0000
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> Hi,
>
> I am running a Mini with a highly tuned A series engine (100bhp from a
> 1.3litre). It has a carb and Distributer but I am thinking about adding a
> Lamda sensor with a dash mounted gauge so that I can Keep an eye on the
> mixture.
>
> Where in the exhaust system is the best place to mount the sensor? Close
to
> the head? 6ft down the exhaust? I have a Long center branch exhaust
> manifold which doesn't bring the ports together for about 3ft after the
> cylinder head. The manifold is also new (and expensive) so I would prefur
> to mount is in the exhaust if it doesn't affect the reading.
>
> I plan to get a sensor from a car in a scrap yard are there any UK (comon)
> makes of cars that have better Lamda sensor than others?
>
> In the UK they recently banned Leaded petrol. They made Lead replacement
> petrol available to 'replace' it. Does LRP clog lamba sensors like Leaded
> petrol does? I can run Unleaded but LRP has Higher Octane rating than
> Unleaded and is cheaper than Super Unleaded.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ade
>
>

Hi Ade,

I had a mini catalogue a while ago which listed an LCB Y peice with a boss
for mounting a lambda sensor. Unfortunately I can't find the catalogue
anymore, but I would suggest you try the usual big suppliers MiniSpares,
MiniSport, MiniSpeed, etc. I bet you non mini owners just can't believe the
cunning originality in these names ;-) Or maybe even try going directly to
somebody like Maniflow. Either way it would be cheaper than wrecking a whole
LCB.

Gareth Jones



From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 18 16:19:13 2000
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From: "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Lambda sensor mounting
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 21:18:58 -0000
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Ade,
I've no experience with minis but I have done the same as you propose with a
2.0 pinto engined Escort and 1.8i Vauxhall Cavalier. I mounted in both cases
at the end of the manifold/downpipe (below floor level, using a heated Bosch
4-wire sensor. With the heater powered, the sensor operates right down to
idle, with the heater off, the sensor doesn't stay hot enough at idle but is
fine under driving conditions. The sensor I used was ex. Rover, and is the
same one used throughout the range of 'K' series engines and 'T'/'M' series.
(ie, 200's, 400's, 600T, 800 4-cyl.). Vauxhall use a very similar sensor on
Motronic (Bosch multipoint) systems; TBi (Multec) applications use a single
wire unheated Rochester sensor which needs to be close to the engine to work
properly.
Hope this helps.

Rich.

> Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 14:47:33 +0000
> From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
> Subject: Lamda sensor mounting
>
> Hi,
>
> I am running a Mini with a highly tuned A series engine (100bhp from a
> 1.3litre). It has a carb and Distributer but I am thinking about adding a
> Lamda sensor with a dash mounted gauge so that I can Keep an eye on the
> mixture.
>
> Where in the exhaust system is the best place to mount the
> sensor? Close to
> the head? 6ft down the exhaust? I have a Long center branch exhaust
> manifold which doesn't bring the ports together for about 3ft after the
> cylinder head. The manifold is also new (and expensive) so I would prefur
> to mount is in the exhaust if it doesn't affect the reading.
>
> I plan to get a sensor from a car in a scrap yard are there any UK (comon)
> makes of cars that have better Lamda sensor than others?
>
> In the UK they recently banned Leaded petrol. They made Lead replacement
> petrol available to 'replace' it. Does LRP clog lamba sensors like Leaded
> petrol does? I can run Unleaded but LRP has Higher Octane rating than
> Unleaded and is cheaper than Super Unleaded.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ade


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 18 16:45:24 2000
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #27
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 16:52:23 -0500
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Bring cash.
Grumpy

| > How does the hot exhaust gas cool the fresh charge.... Or have I got
this
| > wrong and you mean that the exhaust gas isn't heating the cool intake
| > charge and the cold intake charge is causing the detonation????
|
| Believe it or not... the gasses coming from the EGR have had enough time
to
| cool enough so that the portion of exhaust temp re-entering the intake
port
| is cooler than the intake manifold.  (Thus, EGR valve only opens when the
| engine is at "operating temperature".)  But if engine knock is only
apparent
| at something other than high engine loads and/or speeds... I'd be willing
to
| bet dimes to dollars it's due to the EGR being disconnected or inoperable.
|
| Scott
|


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 18 19:31:46 2000
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Date: 19 Jan 2000 13:10:43 +1200
From: "Tom Parker" <parkert@ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Leaded EGO sensor
To: "Diy Efi" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Message-ID: <498.53T2150T7904737parkert@ihug.co.nz>
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I just been discussing EGO sensors with Boris Shapiro <borisle@inter.net.il>.
He works for Bosch in Israel and he has this to say about EGO sensors not
liking the leaded fuel:

>Correct. But...
>Bosch lambda sensor catalog number 0258003083 will do. It's been developed
>for early Fiat Uno Turbo that ran on leaded fuel. It's got different
>construction to other units. You can use it without a worry.

--
Tom Parker - parkert@ihug.co.nz
           - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/


From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 18 19:41:34 2000
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Subject: Re: Leaded EGO sensor
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O2 sensors and unleaded vary by manufacturer, If you go thru the archives
you'll see several instances of folks going for years overseas with their
stock gm sensors.  On the GN list they have problems killing O2 sensors on
unleaded, but the AC/Delco last the longest.  I'm sure the 1400+dF EGTs help
to kill em as fast as possible.  The hole in most stories is that they
ignore the fact that many countries still use leaded, and are using O2
sensors.
Grumpy


| I just been discussing EGO sensors with Boris Shapiro
<borisle@inter.net.il>.
| He works for Bosch in Israel and he has this to say about EGO sensors not
| liking the leaded fuel:
|
| >Correct. But...
| >Bosch lambda sensor catalog number 0258003083 will do. It's been
developed
| >for early Fiat Uno Turbo that ran on leaded fuel. It's got different
| >construction to other units. You can use it without a worry.
|
| --
| Tom Parker - parkert@ihug.co.nz
|            - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/
|


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 19 03:32:03 2000
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: lamda sensors
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 09:28:58 +0100
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Hi all!
To be able to read a car stoiciometry or not , without all the fuss of
mounting the lamda sensor 
I have made myself a 3" 0,30m tube with a set screw in the end to slip over
the end of the tailpipe.In the middle there is a welded bung for the sensor
.The end of the tube I have bent 
almost flat ,1cm gap.With a heated sensor it works good , but I have not
tested it against front tube mounting. 
Espen
From: "Lowell Foo" <lowell@smartt.com>
> Subject: lambda sensors
> 
> .85 LA would be 12.5:1 and .89 LA would be 13:1.  With a heated
> lambda sensor I don't think placement matters at all.  I tried running
> 2 Bosch LSM-11 sensors on my Talon, 1 in the stock location just
> after the turbo and one in the tailpipe.  The stock sensor is read by
> the cars Motec ECU and the tailpipe sensor by a Fueltronics
> handheld.  The readings agreed within 1% on a sensor rated for
> 1.5% accuracy.  Also as far as I know you cannot just read voltage
> off a lambda sensor because of EGT compensation but I've never
> tried it.  


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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #29
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----- Original Message -----
From: DIY_EFI Digest <DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
To: <DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, January 19, 2000 11:00 AM
Subject: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #29


>
> DIY_EFI Digest       Wednesday, January 19 2000       Volume 05 : Number
029
>
>
>
> In this issue:
>
> Re: Lamda sensor mounting
> RE: Lambda sensor mounting
> Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #27
> Leaded EGO sensor
> Re: Leaded EGO sensor
> Re: lamda sensors
>
> See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the
> DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 20:00:39 -0000
> From: "Gareth Jones" <garethjones@lycosmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Lamda sensor mounting
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I am running a Mini with a highly tuned A series engine (100bhp from a
> > 1.3litre). It has a carb and Distributer but I am thinking about adding
a
> > Lamda sensor with a dash mounted gauge so that I can Keep an eye on the
> > mixture.
> >
> > Where in the exhaust system is the best place to mount the sensor? Close
> to
> > the head? 6ft down the exhaust? I have a Long center branch exhaust
> > manifold which doesn't bring the ports together for about 3ft after the
> > cylinder head. The manifold is also new (and expensive) so I would
prefur
> > to mount is in the exhaust if it doesn't affect the reading.
> >
> > I plan to get a sensor from a car in a scrap yard are there any UK
(comon)
> > makes of cars that have better Lamda sensor than others?
> >
> > In the UK they recently banned Leaded petrol. They made Lead replacement
> > petrol available to 'replace' it. Does LRP clog lamba sensors like
Leaded
> > petrol does? I can run Unleaded but LRP has Higher Octane rating than
> > Unleaded and is cheaper than Super Unleaded.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Ade
> >
> >
>
> Hi Ade,
>
> I had a mini catalogue a while ago which listed an LCB Y peice with a boss
> for mounting a lambda sensor. Unfortunately I can't find the catalogue
> anymore, but I would suggest you try the usual big suppliers MiniSpares,
> MiniSport, MiniSpeed, etc. I bet you non mini owners just can't believe
the
> cunning originality in these names ;-) Or maybe even try going directly to
> somebody like Maniflow. Either way it would be cheaper than wrecking a
whole
> LCB.
>
> Gareth Jones
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 21:18:58 -0000
> From: "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>
> Subject: RE: Lambda sensor mounting
>
> Ade,
> I've no experience with minis but I have done the same as you propose with
a
> 2.0 pinto engined Escort and 1.8i Vauxhall Cavalier. I mounted in both
cases
> at the end of the manifold/downpipe (below floor level, using a heated
Bosch
> 4-wire sensor. With the heater powered, the sensor operates right down to
> idle, with the heater off, the sensor doesn't stay hot enough at idle but
is
> fine under driving conditions. The sensor I used was ex. Rover, and is the
> same one used throughout the range of 'K' series engines and 'T'/'M'
series.
> (ie, 200's, 400's, 600T, 800 4-cyl.). Vauxhall use a very similar sensor
on
> Motronic (Bosch multipoint) systems; TBi (Multec) applications use a
single
> wire unheated Rochester sensor which needs to be close to the engine to
work
> properly.
> Hope this helps.
>
> Rich.
>
> > Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 14:47:33 +0000
> > From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
> > Subject: Lamda sensor mounting
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I am running a Mini with a highly tuned A series engine (100bhp from a
> > 1.3litre). It has a carb and Distributer but I am thinking about adding
a
> > Lamda sensor with a dash mounted gauge so that I can Keep an eye on the
> > mixture.
> >
> > Where in the exhaust system is the best place to mount the
> > sensor? Close to
> > the head? 6ft down the exhaust? I have a Long center branch exhaust
> > manifold which doesn't bring the ports together for about 3ft after the
> > cylinder head. The manifold is also new (and expensive) so I would
prefur
> > to mount is in the exhaust if it doesn't affect the reading.
> >
> > I plan to get a sensor from a car in a scrap yard are there any UK
(comon)
> > makes of cars that have better Lamda sensor than others?
> >
> > In the UK they recently banned Leaded petrol. They made Lead replacement
> > petrol available to 'replace' it. Does LRP clog lamba sensors like
Leaded
> > petrol does? I can run Unleaded but LRP has Higher Octane rating than
> > Unleaded and is cheaper than Super Unleaded.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Ade
>
From: Torstein Moshuus 19.Feb.00
 tmoshuus@start.no

Re: Location of lambda sensor

The sensor should be as close to the the exhaust outlet as possible. In case
of Al´s
Mini I would suspect that he should locate the adaptor as close to the end
of the manifold as possible. The sensor does not give reliable readings
unless heated to approx. 600 degrees (F). A heated sensor would be less
dependent on temperature (of course).
Incidentally what kind of instrument are you using in order to measure the
very low voltages we are dealing with here ( less than 1 volt and a pretty
high impedance looking into the sensor) ?
rgrds



> ------------------------------
>
> End of DIY_EFI Digest V5 #29
> ****************************
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 19 17:47:32 2000
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From: Simon Quested <questeds@whio.lincoln.ac.nz>
Subject: Knock
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> From: "Robert W. Hughes" <rwhughe@ev1.net>

> Actually, the exhaust gases dilute the mixture and make the combustion
> temperatures lower. 

How do you add hot and get cold?
I'm confused....

> From: "Scott Croughwell" <scott@outwest.net>
 
> > How does the hot exhaust gas cool the fresh charge.... Or have I got this
> > wrong and you mean that the exhaust gas isn't heating the cool intake charge
> > and the cold intake charge is causing the detonation????
> 
> Believe it or not... the gasses coming from the EGR have had enough time to cool
> enough so that the portion of exhaust temp re-entering the intake port is cooler
> than the intake manifold.

Wow so the exhaust gas is cooler than the intake I never would have thought 
so.... hell I'm not even running emmissions gear, don't have to here in NZ. It 
is even legal to remove cats.... 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 19 19:01:13 2000
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Subject: [ADMIN] Lists are moving!
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu (DIY EFI List),
        efi332@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu (EFI332),
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Hopefully, the move will start tomorrow, 5pm EST.
There will almost certainly be a disruption/delay
in service around that time, so please refrain from
posting tomorrow (Jan 20th) afternoon until further notice.

Orin.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 19 19:03:12 2000
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DTs are already setting in  <<g>>...
Grumpy



| Hopefully, the move will start tomorrow, 5pm EST.
| There will almost certainly be a disruption/delay
| in service around that time, so please refrain from
| posting tomorrow (Jan 20th) afternoon until further notice.
| 
| Orin.
| 


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 19 19:14:32 2000
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Subject: Minimum to run GMECM?
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For a basic DIS MAP application what are the minimum inputs
that a GMECM is going to need to run?  

1)Obviously power,ground, ignition
2)the connections to the DIS which I believe will supply RPM
via the crank sensor, other misc power and ground connections. 
3) MAP
4) Injector connections
5) TPS?  I assume the unit would at least idle without this hooked up?
6) temp?  same thing?
7) VSS ?  can this be fooled or bypassed since I have no sensor in this
application
8) knock? I assmume not required just to make it idle
9) others required?

Basically,  I am trying to figure out what is the minimum to crank and
run angine with a 1227165, 748,749 or 730 and DIS.  Since I won't have a 
complete GM vehicle to tinker with, I will get as much as I can from some donor vehicle.

Thanks!
Jim

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 19 19:20:53 2000
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Anyone out there have a 1227165, 748,749 or 730 that you want to sell?
>From a 4cyl DIS app would be best, but not required.
It could be dead (as a core) or fully functional.  
If you have 4cyl DIS stuff to go along with it I could buy 
that as well.

Thanks very much,
Jim

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 19 19:25:05 2000
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Lets see, from the nature of this question, I'd almost quess that you have a
limited amount of efi experience.  So you with this limited background want
to jump in and redesign what gm has spent millions of dollars on, and
install it some other way.  OK..
   2nd, leaving all/most/some of the sensors disconnected negates any
benefits to running efi,  might as install a carb..  Least you might have
something that is proper to drive.
  The archives here and at GMECM have lots of leads on how to do things.
Grumpy


| For a basic DIS MAP application what are the minimum inputs
| that a GMECM is going to need to run?
| 1)Obviously power,ground, ignition
| 2)the connections to the DIS which I believe will supply RPM
| via the crank sensor, other misc power and ground connections.
| 3) MAP
| 4) Injector connections
| 5) TPS?  I assume the unit would at least idle without this hooked up?
| 6) temp?  same thing?
| 7) VSS ?  can this be fooled or bypassed since I have no sensor in this
| application
| 8) knock? I assmume not required just to make it idle
| 9) others required?
| Basically,  I am trying to figure out what is the minimum to crank and
| run angine with a 1227165, 748,749 or 730 and DIS.  Since I won't have a
| complete GM vehicle to tinker with, I will get as much as I can from some
donor vehicle.
| Thanks!
| Jim
|


From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 19 19:38:30 2000
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I just found Bruces Test bench article.  It answered many of the questions.  Any other words of wisdom would be appreciated!

Jim

From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 19 23:36:03 2000
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>
> Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 11:57:04 -0800
> From: "Scott Croughwell" <scott@outwest.net>
> Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #27
>
> > How does the hot exhaust gas cool the fresh charge.... Or have I got
this
> > wrong and you mean that the exhaust gas isn't heating the cool intake
> > charge and the cold intake charge is causing the detonation????
>
> Believe it or not... the gasses coming from the EGR have had enough time
to
> cool enough so that the portion of exhaust temp re-entering the intake
port
> is cooler than the intake manifold.  (Thus, EGR valve only opens when the
> engine is at "operating temperature".)  But if engine knock is only
apparent
> at something other than high engine loads and/or speeds... I'd be willing
to
> bet dimes to dollars it's due to the EGR being disconnected or inoperable.

Well, I have put a thermocouple in the intake manifold and can state the
results of what I found.  With the EGR not operating and using a cold air
intake I was seeing around 125F after the throttle body on a turbocharged
and intercooled V6 at light cruise conditions.  With EGR operational, as
soon as the valve opened under the same conditions the intake manifold temp
jumped to 210F on a 75F day.  I think that it is less a temperature issue
than a charge dilution issue.  But with some fine tuning of the spark map,
you can easily eliminate any detonation you may experience.

YMMV

Steve



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 20 08:54:01 2000
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Bruce wrote: 

>So you with this limited 
>background want to jump in and redesign what gm has spent millions of >dollars on..

Not at all.  The point is NOT to design a ground up system!
In fact you are whom suggested I check into the GM's for a BASIC
FI conversion application.

>2nd, leaving all/most/some of the sensors disconnected negates any 
>benefits to running efi,  might as install a carb.. 

You misunderstood the purpose of the question.  I plan on running
several sensors (except VSS)for the reason you mentioned, but I would like to start with just the ignition, map,temp and TPS if that would work.  

So, other than setting service codes, will the ECM run like this,
or will it likely go into a limp home mode of some type?

Jim
Dopey



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 20 10:00:17 2000
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Subject: Re: re:Minimum to run GMECM? 
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 10:07:27 -0500
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You want to run the system, in your own configuration, for what ever reason.
Your not going to like it when your done.
Look in the archives, for the dozen of so threads about deleting the VSS.
The other inputs are all necessary, also.
It is far easier to plan things out once, install it all, and then fine tune
something then cob bit by bit together.
I'm just trying to save you time/money, I been thru this dozens of times,
on+off list.
You want to ignore this, fine, least I tried
Grumpy

| You misunderstood the purpose of the question.  I plan on running
| several sensors (except VSS)for the reason you mentioned, but I would like
to start with just the ignition, map,temp and TPS if that would work.
| So, other than setting service codes, will the ECM run like this,
| or will it likely go into a limp home mode of some type?
| Jim
| Dopey



From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 20 10:14:32 2000
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Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 09:13:51 -0600
From: "Robert W. Hughes" <rwhughe@ev1.net>
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> > Actually, the exhaust gases dilute the mixture and make the combustion
> > temperatures lower. 
> 
> How do you add hot and get cold?
> I'm confused....
> 
> > From: "Scott Croughwell" <scott@outwest.net>
>  
> > > How does the hot exhaust gas cool the fresh charge.... Or have I got this
> > > wrong and you mean that the exhaust gas isn't heating the cool intake charge
> > > and the cold intake charge is causing the detonation????
> > 
> > Believe it or not... the gasses coming from the EGR have had enough time to cool
> > enough so that the portion of exhaust temp re-entering the intake port is cooler
> > than the intake manifold.

and from another note

> With EGR operational, as
> soon as the valve opened under the same conditions the intake manifold temp
> jumped to 210F on a 75F day.  I think that it is less a temperature issue
> than a charge dilution issue.  But with some fine tuning of the spark map,
> you can easily eliminate any detonation you may experience.

This is what I was saying. The exhaust gases dilute the mixture and and
result in cooler combustion chamber temperatures which reduces nitrogen
oxide formation. The mixture also burns slower and so requires more
ignition advance. The exhaust gases are not cooler than the intake, on
my car they are hot enough to melt and burn out 60-40 solder in copper
piping.

> 
> Wow so the exhaust gas is cooler than the intake I never would have thought 
> so.... hell I'm not even running emmissions gear, don't have to here in NZ. It 
> is even legal to remove cats.... 
How about dogs? sorry
-- 
Robert W. Hughes (Bob)
BackYard Engineering
29:40.237N, 95:28.726W
Houston, Texas
rwhughe@ev1.net

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 20 14:49:28 2000
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #29
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>Hi Ade,
>
>I had a mini catalogue a while ago which listed an LCB Y peice with a boss
>for mounting a lambda sensor. Unfortunately I can't find the catalogue
>anymore, but I would suggest you try the usual big suppliers MiniSpares,
>MiniSport, MiniSpeed, etc. I bet you non mini owners just can't believe the
>cunning originality in these names ;-) Or maybe even try going directly to
>somebody like Maniflow. Either way it would be cheaper than wrecking a whole
>LCB.
>
>Gareth Jones

I have just bought a nice maniflow LCB... I am not going to buy another
other one!

Ade


From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 20 16:50:13 2000
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If anyone is interested, I uploaded a new ecu file to incoming.  The 
ecu file is for use with the 8D code (90-92 Corvett and Camaro).  
Let me know how it works.  It is specifically taylored for use with 
Winbin and Promedit 6.

From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 20 17:11:14 2000
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>Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 10:07:27 -0500 
>From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net> 
>Subject: Re: re:Minimum to run GMECM? 

>You want to run the system, in your own configuration, for what ever >reason.  Your not going to like it when your done. 
>Look in the archives, for the dozen of so threads about deleting the >VSS. The other inputs are all necessary, also.

VSS controls (at least) :

Idle air Control Valve. Manual Trans/manual clutch.  I only need one Idle speed after warm up.

Canister Purge.   Emissions are a non issue for this app.
Torque Converter.  Manual trans....
Cruise.   don't care it doesn't have one
Trans shift solenoids.  manual trans....
Electric cooling fans.  A simple temp controlled fan is fine.  The ECM
   doesn't need to do this.

Perhaps this application is just too basic for all that GM wizardry...
sorry I bothered you with it.

Jim

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THESE ARE ALL OUTPUTS!!!!.
If you want to get/or seemingly pissy, fine, I'll withdraw my efforts to
answer your questions.
Grumpy

| Canister Purge.   Emissions are a non issue for this app.
| Torque Converter.  Manual trans....
| Cruise.   don't care it doesn't have one
| Trans shift solenoids.  manual trans....
| Electric cooling fans.  A simple temp controlled fan is fine.  The ECM
|    doesn't need to do this.
| Perhaps this application is just too basic for all that GM wizardry...
| sorry I bothered you with it.
| Jim



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From: Simon Quested <questeds@whio.lincoln.ac.nz>
Subject: Knock
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> This is what I was saying. The exhaust gases dilute the mixture and and
> result in cooler combustion chamber temperatures

Ok.... so the inlet manifold temp goes up but the mixture is diluted by the 
exhaust gas from the erg. I would have thought that this would have leaned 
the AFR if anything causing detonation or isn't there enough O2 left in the 
exhaust?

>> hell I'm not even running emmissions gear, don't have to here in NZ. It
> > is even legal to remove cats.... 
> How about dogs? sorry

So you should be =-)
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 20 17:22:31 2000
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This lists are currently running off the new server.

You might have noticed your filters not working anymore.
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 20 17:58:52 2000
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How does the hot exhaust gas cool the fresh charge....  is a good
question. Unfortunately it's not the right one.

How does the introduction of exhaust gas lower the temperature of
combustion is a better one.

Keep in mind that the engine is a sequence of discrete events.

The combustion temp is lower beacause there is less fuel burned
and this is achieved by first using exhaust re-entry to help raise the
compression.

As the exhaust is 70% nitrogen and nearly 30% CO2 it is very nearly
inert gas. Adding this gas without any change in throttle position
increases the relative compression ratio.

The raised compression allows the engine mapper to
lower the amount of fuel  i.e. increase the A/F ratio to a greater
number prior to the onset of unstable combustion.

The Exhaust gas is NOT suddenly cooled.

your in the pursuit...

phil



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From: "jtyler" <jtyler@ga.prestige.net>
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Subject: re:Minimum to run GMECM? 
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No I wasn't getting pissy.  Thank you for all your help already.

I really meant it just seems for the relatively simple
app I described, trying to disable/fool/recode 80% of the ECM
provisions may not be the way to go.  SDS or similar may be smarter
if it is going to take 2 years to figure out how too undo all that
GM spent millions doing.

With all the provisions in the GM code (and I realize why they have to do that stuff), it seems like trying to use a sledgehammer to drive a nail. All the complexity GM had to do for a production vehicle simply isn't neccesary for my application.
 
I was trying to find more info on the 168/808 applications you 
mentioned.  I haven't found if any of those where DIS.

I could use a speedo cable VSS if the ECM is going to get dumb without it. 

So:

VSS,MAP,Temp,TPS,Ignition  maybe that would be enough.

I looked at the 165 app on TC, it was a MAF.  The 227 app there
had a 4 cyl switch and was MAP, but was auto, so I'll look for the manual version.  


>Perhaps this application is just too basic for all that GM wizardry... 
>sorry I bothered you with it. 

>Jim 

------------------------------ 

>Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 17:27:08 -0500 
>From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net> 
>Subject: Re: re:Minimum to run GMECM? 

THESE ARE ALL OUTPUTS!!!!. 
If you want to get/or seemingly pissy, fine, I'll withdraw my efforts to 
answer your questions. 
              Grumpy 


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 20 20:38:17 2000
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From: "Mike Pitts" <mpitts@emi.net>
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Subject: re:Minimum to run GMECM? 
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In a generic sense, I would think the following are minimum.

+12V and Ground...duh ;-)
MAP or MAF depending on ECU type
TPS
Coolant Temp
Air Temp
Tach signal
O2 sensor <- don't skimp on this!
Maybe a cam sensor

Some controls (like EGR) have circuitry in them which is used by
the ECU to detect their existance and proper operation.  Without
some of these controls, you would probably get several error codes,
which may put the ECU in a limp or semi-limp mode.  I would definately
hook up the SES lamp and have a tool like Diacom available.

For the VSS, if the ECU thinks the trans is in gear and sees an RPM
of say >3000 for example, it may flag a VSS error code.  VSS affects
the engine control in some models more than others.  If you could just
get any kind of decent pulse to the ECU when the vehicle is moving,
that would probably be enough for it to determine coasting vs stopped.

If it were me, I'd grab everything I could off the donor car, especially the
harness.  And try to put it all into use, except for the cannister purge and
EGR (yeck!).

JMO

Good luck,
-Mike



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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 20 20:48:05 2000
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This doesn't make sense to me.  Static CR would remain the same.
The dynamic/effective CR should still be the same since nothing none
compressable was added to the mix.  The VE should drop (less O2 to react),
hence lower fuel amount needed, leaner mixture takes longer to burn hence
more timing needed.
Grumpy


| As the exhaust is 70% nitrogen and nearly 30% CO2 it is very nearly
| inert gas. Adding this gas without any change in throttle position
| increases the relative compression ratio.
| The raised compression allows the engine mapper to
| lower the amount of fuel  i.e. increase the A/F ratio to a greater
| number prior to the onset of unstable combustion.


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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 21 02:09:33 2000
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>  I only need one Idle speed after warm up.

Try it without VSS. I did.  You'll find that you need a VSS signal for the
IAC to reset and give the a proper idle speed.  I s'pose you could plug
the IAC port totally, but it sure is nice to have fast idle while cold,
etc.

-greg  (maybe I'll just add that to my .sig file...)

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 21 05:40:16 2000
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From: Roy <spectric@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #32
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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>From Roy Spectrics Ltd

The sole purpose of EGR is to reduce exhaust emisions,
it has a detrimental effect on both engine efficiency
and power output.

To reduce the heating effect EGR has on the incomming
air in the inlet manifold, EGR coolers are being
introduced, so basic EGR does not reduce the incomming
air temperature !.  What it does do is to reduce the
rate at which the flame front travels through the
mixture during combustion.

             Hope this helps Roy

--- DIY_EFI Digest
<DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
wrote:
> 
> DIY_EFI Digest       Thursday, January 20 2000      
> Volume 05 : Number 032
> 
> 
> 
> In this issue:
> 
> 	re:Minimum to run GMECM? 
> 	Re: re:Minimum to run GMECM? 
> 	Re: Knock
> 	Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #29
> 
> See the end of the digest for information on
> subscribing to the 
> DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.
> 
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 08:53:19 -0500
> From: "jtyler" <jtyler@ga.prestige.net>
> Subject: re:Minimum to run GMECM? 
> 
> Bruce wrote: 
> 
> >So you with this limited 
> >background want to jump in and redesign what gm has
> spent millions of >dollars on..
> 
> Not at all.  The point is NOT to design a ground up
> system!
> In fact you are whom suggested I check into the GM's
> for a BASIC
> FI conversion application.
> 
> >2nd, leaving all/most/some of the sensors
> disconnected negates any 
> >benefits to running efi,  might as install a carb..
> 
> 
> You misunderstood the purpose of the question.  I
> plan on running
> several sensors (except VSS)for the reason you
> mentioned, but I would like to start with just the
> ignition, map,temp and TPS if that would work.  
> 
> So, other than setting service codes, will the ECM
> run like this,
> or will it likely go into a limp home mode of some
> type?
> 
> Jim
> Dopey
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 10:07:27 -0500
> From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
> Subject: Re: re:Minimum to run GMECM? 
> 
> You want to run the system, in your own
> configuration, for what ever reason.
> Your not going to like it when your done.
> Look in the archives, for the dozen of so threads
> about deleting the VSS.
> The other inputs are all necessary, also.
> It is far easier to plan things out once, install it
> all, and then fine tune
> something then cob bit by bit together.
> I'm just trying to save you time/money, I been thru
> this dozens of times,
> on+off list.
> You want to ignore this, fine, least I tried
> Grumpy
> 
> | You misunderstood the purpose of the question.  I
> plan on running
> | several sensors (except VSS)for the reason you
> mentioned, but I would like
> to start with just the ignition, map,temp and TPS if
> that would work.
> | So, other than setting service codes, will the ECM
> run like this,
> | or will it likely go into a limp home mode of some
> type?
> | Jim
> | Dopey
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 09:13:51 -0600
> From: "Robert W. Hughes" <rwhughe@ev1.net>
> Subject: Re: Knock
> 
> > > Actually, the exhaust gases dilute the mixture
> and make the combustion
> > > temperatures lower. 
> > 
> > How do you add hot and get cold?
> > I'm confused....
> > 
> > > From: "Scott Croughwell" <scott@outwest.net>
> >  
> > > > How does the hot exhaust gas cool the fresh
> charge.... Or have I got this
> > > > wrong and you mean that the exhaust gas isn't
> heating the cool intake charge
> > > > and the cold intake charge is causing the
> detonation????
> > > 
> > > Believe it or not... the gasses coming from the
> EGR have had enough time to cool
> > > enough so that the portion of exhaust temp
> re-entering the intake port is cooler
> > > than the intake manifold.
> 
> and from another note
> 
> > With EGR operational, as
> > soon as the valve opened under the same conditions
> the intake manifold temp
> > jumped to 210F on a 75F day.  I think that it is
> less a temperature issue
> > than a charge dilution issue.  But with some fine
> tuning of the spark map,
> > you can easily eliminate any detonation you may
> experience.
> 
> This is what I was saying. The exhaust gases dilute
> the mixture and and
> result in cooler combustion chamber temperatures
> which reduces nitrogen
> oxide formation. The mixture also burns slower and
> so requires more
> ignition advance. The exhaust gases are not cooler
> than the intake, on
> my car they are hot enough to melt and burn out
> 60-40 solder in copper
> piping.
> 
> > 
> > Wow so the exhaust gas is cooler than the intake I
> never would have thought 
> > so.... hell I'm not even running emmissions gear,
> don't have to here in NZ. It 
> > is even legal to remove cats.... 
> How about dogs? sorry
> - -- 
> Robert W. Hughes (Bob)
> BackYard Engineering
> 29:40.237N, 95:28.726W
> Houston, Texas
> rwhughe@ev1.net
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 19:15:30 +0000
> From: Ade + Lamb Chop <alaw@mrc.soton.ac.uk>
> Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #29
> 
> >Hi Ade,
> >
> >I had a mini catalogue a while ago which listed an
> LCB Y peice with a boss
> >for mounting a lambda sensor. Unfortunately I can't
> find the catalogue
> >anymore, but I would suggest you try the usual big
> suppliers MiniSpares,
> >MiniSport, MiniSpeed, etc. I bet you non mini
> owners just can't believe the
> >cunning originality in these names ;-) Or maybe
> even try going directly to
> >somebody like Maniflow. Either way it would be
> cheaper than wrecking a whole
> >LCB.
> >
> >Gareth Jones
> 
> I have just bought a nice maniflow LCB... I am not
> going to buy another
> other one!
> 
> Ade
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of DIY_EFI Digest V5 #32
> ****************************
> 
> To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command:
> 
>     subscribe diy_efi-digest
> 
> in the body of a message to
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=== message truncated ===
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 21 05:49:09 2000
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A big round of applause for Orin and John on this apparently seamless
transition.

You may have noticed that the WWW pages are on the new server,
www.diy-efi.org.  There are lots of broken links right now, I'm getting
them fixed as I can.  Should look lots better after this weekend.

--steve

Orin wrote:
> 
> This lists are currently running off the new server.
> 
> You might have noticed your filters not working anymore.
> You will have to change references to esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
> or efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu to diy-efi.org in your filters, aliases
> and address books.
> 
> The new address for subscribe/unsubscribe requests is:
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> 
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> 
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-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 21 06:23:21 2000
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No, cause, it's nonsense (the ** part)..
EGR reducing the IAT, look at the bottom of an intake with working egr
(SBC), note all the coke deposited where the egr runner is.  It takes temps
of like 350+dF to do that.  If your IAT is over 350dF, I hope it's due to
alot of boost, other wise ya got problems<g>.
Grumpy
     Please note, this was edited to a resonable lenght.


| >From Roy Spectrics Ltd
| The sole purpose of EGR is to reduce exhaust emisions,
| it has a detrimental effect on both engine efficiency
| and power output.
| To reduce the heating effect EGR has on the incomming
| air in the inlet manifold, EGR coolers are being
| introduced, ***so basic EGR does not reduce the incomming
| air temperature !***.  What it does do is to reduce the
| rate at which the flame front travels through the
| mixture during combustion.
              Hope this helps Roy


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Subject: EGR stuff
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<< Ok.... so the inlet manifold temp goes up but the mixture is diluted by 
the 
 exhaust gas from the erg. I would have thought that this would have leaned 
 the AFR if anything causing detonation or isn't there enough O2 left in the 
 exhaust? >>

Leaning the mixture (via the EGR) would mean adding more O2, but the EGR does 
not do this.  It adds N2, C02 and H20 (vapor) to the airstream of N2 and O2 
and HxCx.  The correct A/F ratio has been determined (carb or ECU), the EGR 
just "thins" the mixture.  I left the small amout of Argon out as not to 
confuse the issue.

Hope this helps...

Mike
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From: Hunt David <huntd@tce.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #34
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 13:20:15 -0500
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>Ok.... so the inlet manifold temp goes up but the mixture is diluted by the

>exhaust gas from the erg. I would have thought that this would have leaned 
>the AFR if anything causing detonation or isn't there enough O2 left in the

>exhaust?

Having worked with oxygen sensors in other applications, it is the excess
oxygen that is measured, so lean is less oxygen not excess fuel.  The
exhaust is just an inert that has little to do with the combustion process
except that it has to be heated by the oxidation process.  The result is
less fuel, less oxygen and cooler PEAK temperatures, thus improved
emissions. I believe, but ain't sure, that the exhaust temperature is
reduced with an increase in the engine's efficiency. The free oxygen
remaining (and sensed) is relatively unchanged.

Now I have a question, when a piston is burned, is the excess oxygen
reacting with the Aluminum?  Or is it something else?

>How does the hot exhaust gas cool the fresh charge....  is a good
>question. Unfortunately it's not the right one.

>If you want to get/or seemingly pissy, fine, I'll withdraw my efforts to 
>answer your questions. 
>              Grumpy 

Grumpy,
I find your answers quite enlightening and enjoyable, but you too can come
off as pissy.  Don't take this to heart, but in this format anyone can be
misunderstood.  Review your first response.  In my opinion, we should be
expecially accomodating and understanding in a forum such as this.  Or are
you just upholding your good name, Grumpy.  Don't get upset, we all love
you.

>This doesn't make sense to me.  Static CR would remain the same.
>The dynamic/effective CR should still be the same since nothing none
>compressable was added to the mix.  The VE should drop (less O2 to react),
>hence lower fuel amount needed, leaner mixture takes longer to burn hence
>more timing needed.
>Grumpy

Since the spend gas is added after the throttle plate the total gas in the
combustion chamber is increased as compared to no recirculation. Thus the
"dynamic" pressure (effective compression ratio) is increased.  At part
throttle the chamber certainly doesn't fill due to the restriction of the
throttle and the dynamic compression ratio is quite small, so even a small
amount of recirculated gas increases the dynamic compression ratio.  It also
increases the preignition temperature (promoting better vaporization
(mixing)), and provides a (relatively) cooling effect for pockets of
"leanness" reducing the possiblity of detonation.  REDUCING.

That "leanness" might be caused by fuel dropout which means that the oxygen
rich, low fuel (lean) areas will also have a lot of recirculation gasses.
Win - Win - Win - Win situation, quite ingenous actually.

Bama
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 21 13:49:50 2000
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Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 16:51:39 -0500
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: Todd Israels <israels@mnsi.net>
Subject: Re: Digest V5 #34 Min GM ECM
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>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 21:35:48 -0500
>From: "jtyler" <jtyler@ga.prestige.net>
>Subject: re:Minimum to run GMECM? 
>
>No I wasn't getting pissy.  Thank you for all your help already.
>
>I really meant it just seems for the relatively simple
>app I described, trying to disable/fool/recode 80% of the ECM
>provisions may not be the way to go.  SDS or similar may be smarter
>if it is going to take 2 years to figure out how too undo all that
>GM spent millions doing.
>
>With all the provisions in the GM code (and I realize why they have to do
that stuff), it seems like trying to use a sledgehammer to drive a nail.
All the complexity GM had to do for a production vehicle simply isn't
neccesary for my application.
> 
>I was trying to find more info on the 168/808 applications you 
>mentioned.  I haven't found if any of those where DIS.
>
>I could use a speedo cable VSS if the ECM is going to get dumb without it. 
>
>So:
>
>VSS,MAP,Temp,TPS,Ignition  maybe that would be enough.
>
>I looked at the 165 app on TC, it was a MAF.  The 227 app there
>had a 4 cyl switch and was MAP, but was auto, so I'll look for the manual
version.  
>
>
>>Perhaps this application is just too basic for all that GM wizardry... 
>>sorry I bothered you with it. 
>
>>Jim 
>
>- ------------------------------ 
>

	All that GM complexity could come in handy.  I dont recall your aplication
but it is my recolection that as sensors error it dissabels that part of
the code and runs on a simpler map not affected by the erroring sensor.
You dont have to hook all the sensors up but they are there fro a reason.
I got a 4cl Fiero to start and run with RPM Vss(needed for start but will
keep running if unpluged) and MAP.  This was on a scraped car with the
clutch out so driveability was not checked.  Hopefully someone can help
with the details I know are missing, have just started looking at the code
in GM ECMs
	Good Luck Todd Israels

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 21 14:24:30 2000
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Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 16:36:36 -0500
From: Jim Fitzgerald <jfitz@fnal.gov>
Subject: Knock S., VE, CR
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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	I found some more Knock S. Info in "Automotive Elect Handbook" by
Ronald K. Jurgen (McGraw Hill).  Author says that knock frequency ranges
from 2 to 15 kHz and is given by:  "Drapers Equation"   Fr = Pmn(C)/pi(B)
Pmn =  vibration mode constant
C   =  velocity of sound in Cyl. gas
B   =  radius of cylinder
	He gives an example, that with gas temp of 2000K,  velocity C = 900
m/s, and for a 100 mm Dia cylinder the 1st knock harmonic would be 5.75 kHz.
	So looking at the equation you can see that freq. is proportional to
cylinder dia. Using the same constants and  Fr = .0575 B you can
estimate other size cylinders.  He also says that any cyl knock travels
through the engine block to the sensor in less than 1 ms.  And that the
successive cylinders are consecutive in time and are not overlapped.  At
6000 RPM they would be 2.5 ms apart.  He says Manuf. originally tried to
tune the sensor to a particular freq. and that they had a Q factor of
about 2.  He thinks that they now use a filter in the ECM.  This was all
referenced to SAE papers 920702, 920808, and 910858
	Actually I think that most common KS are similar and if someone wanted
to tune the KS response for a particular app, that a simple RLC band
pass filter would be sufficient.
	On another note, I think that an engines compression ratio, both static
and effective, and the VE are strictly determined by the mechanical
design of the engine.  It would be the same if the engine were driven as
an air compressor.  Its the cylinder pressure curve that changes
depending on the characteristics of the intake charge gas mixture, 
Temp, Ing. Timming and all the other combustion variables.  
	Its also commonly known that lean mixtures can lead to burt pistons and
valves. Is that because the excess O2 is burning the metal (cutting
torch) while the overall combustion temp. is cooler??
Jim F.
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 21 18:06:48 2000
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Subject: Re: believe iot or not
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>
> Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 23:55:06 -0500
> From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
> Subject: Re: Believe it or not... NOT
>
> This doesn't make sense to me.  Static CR would remain the same.
> The dynamic/effective CR should still be the same since nothing none
> compressable was added to the mix.  The VE should drop (less O2 to react),
> hence lower fuel amount needed, leaner mixture takes longer to burn hence
> more timing needed.
> Grumpy
>
He's got it down pretty close.
Addition of an inert gas allows more complete filling of the cyl with less
fuel, yet no leaning of the mixture. Lets say for argument's sake a full
charge is one litre. At low load, partial throttle, VE may be throttle
limitted to 20or 30%. The A/F mixture is 14:1. CR is 8:1.
With a 30% VE effective CR is  reduced somewhat - possibly as low as about
3:1.

Now, lets add 200cc of inert gas to the cyl.
We now have an effective VE of 40 or 50%, raising the effective compression
ratio at the same throttle opening, with the same A/F ratio, to closer to
5:1.

We get the same power out of the burning fuel - likely even a bit more due
to more squeeze. We also expand the inert gas charge due to heating, and a
portion of the heat that would normally go out the pipe is absorbed here.
This absorption of cyl heat by the inert charge also reduces the cyl
temperature to a point where less nitrogen is oxidized, thus reducing NOX
emissions.

A Miller Cycle engine takes this to extremes, with the engine running for
all practicle purposes at close to 100% VE for the majority of it's
operating regimen.
>
> | As the exhaust is 70% nitrogen and nearly 30% CO2 it is very nearly
> | inert gas. Adding this gas without any change in throttle position
> | increases the relative compression ratio.
> | The raised compression allows the engine mapper to
> | lower the amount of fuel  i.e. increase the A/F ratio to a greater
> | number prior to the onset of unstable combustion.
>


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>
> Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 23:55:06 -0500
> From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
> Subject: Re: Believe it or not... NOT
>
> This doesn't make sense to me.  Static CR would remain the same.
> The dynamic/effective CR should still be the same since nothing none
> compressable was added to the mix.  The VE should drop (less O2 to react),
> hence lower fuel amount needed, leaner mixture takes longer to burn hence
> more timing needed.
> Grumpy
>
He's got it down pretty close.
Addition of an inert gas allows more complete filling of the cyl with less
fuel, yet no leaning of the mixture. Lets say for argument's sake a full
charge is one litre. At low load, partial throttle, VE may be throttle
limitted to 20or 30%. The A/F mixture is 14:1. CR is 8:1.
With a 30% VE effective CR is  reduced somewhat - possibly as low as about
3:1.

Now, lets add 200cc of inert gas to the cyl.
We now have an effective VE of 40 or 50%, raising the effective compression
ratio at the same throttle opening, with the same A/F ratio, to closer to
5:1.

We get the same power out of the burning fuel - likely even a bit more due
to more squeeze. We also expand the inert gas charge due to heating, and a
portion of the heat that would normally go out the pipe is absorbed here.
This absorption of cyl heat by the inert charge also reduces the cyl
temperature to a point where less nitrogen is oxidized, thus reducing NOX
emissions.

A Miller Cycle engine takes this to extremes, with the engine running for
all practicle purposes at close to 100% VE for the majority of it's
operating regimen.
>
> | As the exhaust is 70% nitrogen and nearly 30% CO2 it is very nearly
> | inert gas. Adding this gas without any change in throttle position
> | increases the relative compression ratio.
> | The raised compression allows the engine mapper to
> | lower the amount of fuel  i.e. increase the A/F ratio to a greater
> | number prior to the onset of unstable combustion.
>


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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 21 18:49:07 2000
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All -- The OLD FTP site is no longer accepting uploads.  The new one is,
or at least it should be.  Make sure that all new uploads go to the new
ftp site.  The layout is the same, only the address has changed.  It's
now:

ftp.diy-efi.org

or

ftp://ftp.diy-efi.org

--steve

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com
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Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 21:23:14 -0800 (PST)
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Go ahead and switch if you are desperate :)

You'll have to go through the authorization process to get on
diy_efi, so don't unsubscribe from the digest until you get the
welcome message.

Orin.
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan 22 03:09:30 2000
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: believe iot or not
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| Addition of an inert gas allows more complete filling of the cyl with less
| fuel, yet no leaning of the mixture. Lets say for argument's sake a full
| charge is one litre. At low load, partial throttle, VE may be throttle
| limitted to 20or 30%. The A/F mixture is 14:1. CR is 8:1.
| With a 30% VE effective CR is  reduced somewhat - possibly as low as about
| 3:1.

We agree line for line up until the last sentence.  Now even with it drop
the mention of the CR, and I agree with you.  But, I don't see how you can
tie CR to VE.  The VE is a funstion of tuning, not calculation.  You can
guess at a VE, but it ain't so, till the tuner says "Done"..

| Now, lets add 200cc of inert gas to the cyl.
| We now have an effective VE of 40 or 50%, raising the effective
compression
| ratio at the same throttle opening, with the same A/F ratio, to closer to
| 5:1.

Did you remove a 200cc amount of air?.
What you say here, is just the opposite of what I see happening, again
ignoring the mention of CR.

| We get the same power out of the burning fuel - likely even a bit more due
| to more squeeze. We also expand the inert gas charge due to heating, and a
| portion of the heat that would normally go out the pipe is absorbed here.
| This absorption of cyl heat by the inert charge also reduces the cyl
| temperature to a point where less nitrogen is oxidized, thus reducing NOX
| emissions.

I've always seen an increase in TPS, when adding EGR.  While I haven't done
alot of adding of EGR, I've never seen a lowering of TPS, or increase in
MPG.   Yes, what I generally tinker with is cammed alot more then oem, so
self egr'ing is alot more at low speed, and maybe that's a bigger issue then
I'd thought.
Grumpy

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan 22 06:59:12 2000
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From: "jtyler" <jtyler@ga.prestige.net>
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Subject: Re: 6 cyl, 4 cyl DIS
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A couple questions for anyone who can help:   OZ?


If you have a 6cyl app that is DIS and the prom has a Cyl select byte, and you reset the cyl number byte to 4.  Would it work on a 4 banger? 
Anyone know for sure?


Does anyone know of a 165 4cyl DIS app?  (or 808?)

Jim




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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan 22 08:09:36 2000
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From: clive@problem.org (Clive Apps - 510-0020 )
Subject: Re: EGR ?s
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 11:11:28 -0500 (EST)
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try this

URL: www.ag.auburn.edu/users/gparmer/efi/egr.txt



Clive 
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan 22 10:04:20 2000
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Subject: Holley Projection 2D
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Hello everyone,

My uncle came upon a Holley ProJection 2D very cheap recently and purchased it.  He
currently has an analog original Projection on his Chev 383 that, after much "tuning"
runs fairly acceptably.

What I am wondering is have any of you had experience with both systems?  Is the newer
2D computer a vast improvement over the analog system.  Do you think it would be worth
swapping out?  I am under the impression that the 2D still lacks true engine load
sensing via MAP or MAF but instead still uses TPS like the analog setup.

Otherwise he will sell it and attempt to turn a little profit on it.

Thanks
Gabe

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan 22 10:13:41 2000
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From: "jtyler" <jtyler@ga.prestige.net>
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Subject: Re: GM crank reluctor
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Anyone know of a specific 4 or 6 cylinder GM engine (by year/model) that has a 7 notch "slip on" crank reluctor.  Some are machined into the crank, but some photos I have seen show a  "slip on style" up near the crank pulley.  Problem is they don't tell me year model.  I need one.

Thanks
Jim
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan 22 10:30:08 2000
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: Holley Projection 2D
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I'm just boring to listen to but why not wire it to a 1227747 (gm ecm), get
a copy of the demoware from Tunercat, a chip burner, an eraser, and some
spare proms, and custonize a good computer to your needs.
   I don't know if any of the holleys use an IAC, might need to get Howell
to modify it, or get one from a junkyard, the BBC have a 2" butterfly
Grumpy

| Hello everyone,
| My uncle came upon a Holley ProJection 2D very cheap recently and
purchased it.  He
| currently has an analog original Projection on his Chev 383 that, after
much "tuning"
| runs fairly acceptably.
| What I am wondering is have any of you had experience with both systems?
Is the newer
| 2D computer a vast improvement over the analog system.  Do you think it
would be worth
| swapping out?  I am under the impression that the 2D still lacks true
engine load
| sensing via MAP or MAF but instead still uses TPS like the analog setup.
| Otherwise he will sell it and attempt to turn a little profit on it.
| Thanks
| Gabe


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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan 22 10:48:31 2000
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Subject: Re: Holley Projection 2D
References: <200001221300.FAA22310@hektor.valesh.com> <3889F09A.5F872400@earthlink.net> <007501bf6507$b6fd6720$bf0ac9d8@v1b1k1>
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I would love to do that, and hopefully will be able to in the future, my
stepfather has a 454 in a 3/4 ton 4X4 '72 chevy w/Holley analog 4bbl that needs
the same treatment.  I believe I have seen where there is a place for IAC in the
Holley TB (I think I remember reading somewhere that it is a Chrysler unit?).  I
guess I should start gathering info on what all is going to be needed,  I think
the Holley has 85lb/h injectors.  What would be a good cal to start with?

I was thinking this might be a quick and easy improvement for the short haul
though...

Do you know off hand how much air a BBC TB will flow???  I guess I could as my
uncle how big his throttle plates are in the Holley.

Thanks
Gabe

Bruce Plecan wrote:

> I'm just boring to listen to but why not wire it to a 1227747 (gm ecm), get
> a copy of the demoware from Tunercat, a chip burner, an eraser, and some
> spare proms, and custonize a good computer to your needs.
>    I don't know if any of the holleys use an IAC, might need to get Howell
> to modify it, or get one from a junkyard, the BBC have a 2" butterfly
> Grumpy
>
> | Hello everyone,
> | My uncle came upon a Holley ProJection 2D very cheap recently and
> purchased it.  He
> | currently has an analog original Projection on his Chev 383 that, after
> much "tuning"
> | runs fairly acceptably.
> | What I am wondering is have any of you had experience with both systems?
> Is the newer
> | 2D computer a vast improvement over the analog system.  Do you think it
> would be worth
> | swapping out?  I am under the impression that the 2D still lacks true
> engine load
> | sensing via MAP or MAF but instead still uses TPS like the analog setup.
> | Otherwise he will sell it and attempt to turn a little profit on it.
> | Thanks
> | Gabe
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan 22 11:08:32 2000
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: Holley Projection 2D
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| I would love to do that, and hopefully will be able to in the future, my
| stepfather has a 454 in a 3/4 ton 4X4 '72 chevy w/Holley analog 4bbl that
needs
| the same treatment.  I believe I have seen where there is a place for IAC
in the
| Holley TB (I think I remember reading somewhere that it is a Chrysler
unit?).  I
| guess I should start gathering info on what all is going to be needed,  I
think
| the Holley has 85lb/h injectors.  What would be a good cal to start with?

454 BBC, 747 prom calibration.  Will take some work to get it, right.  4@85
would feed, what 720 HP, which is ridiculious (for a TBI, again IMHO).  So
part of the problem with the 4@85 idea is like when you run big injecotors
on any thing, screwy injector durations (IMHO).  Then how much airflow do
you really need?.

| I was thinking this might be a quick and easy improvement for the short
haul
| though...

Ya, but why do things twice?..  Sorry but I'm getting to old to want to
spend my time doing things over.  In a long run cheaper to do it right (?)
the first time.

| Do you know off hand how much air a BBC TB will flow???  I guess I could
as my
| uncle how big his throttle plates are in the Holley.

The two barrel 2" according to Holley is 670 CFM.
The 4 barrel holleys as I recall are 1 5/8, or 1 11/16"...
Grumpy
|
| Thanks
| Gabe
|
| Bruce Plecan wrote:
|
| > I'm just boring to listen to but why not wire it to a 1227747 (gm ecm),
get
| > a copy of the demoware from Tunercat, a chip burner, an eraser, and some
| > spare proms, and custonize a good computer to your needs.
| >    I don't know if any of the holleys use an IAC, might need to get
Howell
| > to modify it, or get one from a junkyard, the BBC have a 2" butterfly
| > Grumpy
| >
| > | Hello everyone,
| > | My uncle came upon a Holley ProJection 2D very cheap recently and
| > purchased it.  He
| > | currently has an analog original Projection on his Chev 383 that,
after
| > much "tuning"
| > | runs fairly acceptably.
| > | What I am wondering is have any of you had experience with both
systems?
| > Is the newer
| > | 2D computer a vast improvement over the analog system.  Do you think
it
| > would be worth
| > | swapping out?  I am under the impression that the 2D still lacks true
| > engine load
| > | sensing via MAP or MAF but instead still uses TPS like the analog
setup.
| > | Otherwise he will sell it and attempt to turn a little profit on it.
| > | Thanks
| > | Gabe
| >
|
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
| > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
| > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
|
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|

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To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Holley Projection 2D
References: <200001221300.FAA22310@hektor.valesh.com> <3889F09A.5F872400@earthlink.net> <007501bf6507$b6fd6720$bf0ac9d8@v1b1k1> <3889FAF5.9A995086@earthlink.net> <00de01bf650d$12c8e840$bf0ac9d8@v1b1k1>
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Bruce Plecan wrote:

> | I would love to do that, and hopefully will be able to in the future, my
> | stepfather has a 454 in a 3/4 ton 4X4 '72 chevy w/Holley analog 4bbl that
> needs
> | the same treatment.  I believe I have seen where there is a place for IAC
> in the
> | Holley TB (I think I remember reading somewhere that it is a Chrysler
> unit?).  I
> | guess I should start gathering info on what all is going to be needed,  I
> think
> | the Holley has 85lb/h injectors.  What would be a good cal to start with?
>
> 454 BBC, 747 prom calibration.  Will take some work to get it, right.  4@85
> would feed, what 720 HP, which is ridiculious (for a TBI, again IMHO).  So
> part of the problem with the 4@85 idea is like when you run big injecotors
> on any thing, screwy injector durations (IMHO).  Then how much airflow do
> you really need?.

I guess I should have clarified, my uncle has a 383 w/the 2bbl unit with the
85lb/h.

My stepfather has the 4bbl unit with unknown injectors sizes.


> | I was thinking this might be a quick and easy improvement for the short
> haul
> | though...
>
> Ya, but why do things twice?..  Sorry but I'm getting to old to want to
> spend my time doing things over.  In a long run cheaper to do it right (?)
> the first time.

Yes, you're probably right.  Actually, I am going to as my uncle if he would
rather do a TPI setup or modify his TB setup, both options using GMECM's (he
likes the idea of being able to get a replacement ECU at a parts store if one
grenades on a road trip).  I have just been a little gun-shy about working on
someone else's stuff when I have had so much trouble with my own TPI
conversion.  I just had lots of little stuff come up, I guess that's to be
expected when you get an '85 model.  The (I believe to be) bad 85 ECM was most
of my problem, along with partially clogged injectors, bad intake manifold
gasket, MAF troubles, bad connections on the old harness, and a million other
things I am forgetting.

I have converted my setup to a 1227165 and an '89 calibration now and things are
much better.

BTW does anyone have a .ald file for Carbytes for this cal????

>
> | Do you know off hand how much air a BBC TB will flow???  I guess I could
> as my
> | uncle how big his throttle plates are in the Holley.
>
> The two barrel 2" according to Holley is 670 CFM.
> The 4 barrel holleys as I recall are 1 5/8, or 1 11/16"...
> Grumpy

Good  info so far, Thanks....
Gabe

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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: Holley Projection 2D
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 15:08:54 -0500
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| > 454 BBC, 747 prom calibration.  Will take some work to get it, right.
4@85
| > would feed, what 720 HP, which is ridiculious (for a TBI, again IMHO).
So
| > part of the problem with the 4@85 idea is like when you run big
injecotors
| > on any thing, screwy injector durations (IMHO).  Then how much airflow
do
| > you really need?.
| I guess I should have clarified, my uncle has a 383 w/the 2bbl unit with
the
| 85lb/h.
| My stepfather has the 4bbl unit with unknown injectors sizes.

The 4 barrels come 65. 75, or 85 as I recall.
The late BBC come with 80-5 and the early with 90-5 injectors.  Need to
ask/look in archives for what years thou.

| Yes, you're probably right.  Actually, I am going to as my uncle if he
would
| rather do a TPI setup or modify his TB setup, both options using GMECM's
(he
| likes the idea of being able to get a replacement ECU at a parts store if
one
| grenades on a road trip).  I have just been a little gun-shy about working
on
| someone else's stuff when I have had so much trouble with my own TPI
| conversion.  I just had lots of little stuff come up, I guess that's to be
| expected when you get an '85 model.  The (I believe to be) bad 85 ECM was
most
| of my problem, along with partially clogged injectors, bad intake manifold
| gasket, MAF troubles, bad connections on the old harness, and a million
other
| things I am forgetting.

We all do the first couple times, gets better thou.

| I have converted my setup to a 1227165 and an '89 calibration now and
things are
| much better.
| BTW does anyone have a .ald file for Carbytes for this cal????
 > | Do you know off hand how much air a BBC TB will flow???  I guess I
could
| > as my
| > | uncle how big his throttle plates are in the Holley.
| > The two barrel 2" according to Holley is 670 CFM.
| > The 4 barrel holleys as I recall are 1 5/8, or 1 11/16"...
| > Grumpy
| Good  info so far, Thanks....
| Gabe


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 24 04:00:21 2000
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From: Rex Weatherford <rex.weatherford@terraglyph.com>
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Subject: Re: GM crank reluctor
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jtyler wrote:
> 
> Anyone know of a specific 4 or 6 cylinder GM engine (by year/model) that has a 7 notch "slip on" crank reluctor.  Some are machined into the crank, but some photos I have seen show a  "slip on style" up near the crank pulley.  Problem is they don't tell me year model.  I need one.
> 
> Thanks
> Jim
> 

I have been a lurker for about a week, but I may have a place for you to
look....

The Quad4 engines have a 7X ignition signal that I assume comes from the
crank position sensor.  I have no idea if it will "slip off" or if it is
machined in.  I also know there is a difference between the early Quad's
and the later Quad crank.  I think they moved the sensor or reluctor
wheel by 15 degrees....

I'm a very green newbie so be nice...  ;^)

Rex Weatherford
92 Beretta GTZ 2.3L DOHC Quad4
15.531 @ 91.28 mph (stock)
http://www.beretta.net
http://www.mindspring.com/~rweatherford/rexw/rexhome.htm
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test

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 24 05:17:10 2000
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"jtyler" <jtyler@ga.prestige.net> wrote:
> If you have a 6cyl app that is DIS and the prom has a Cyl select byte, and you reset the cyl number byte to 4.  Would it work on a
> 4 banger? 
> Anyone know for sure?

Theory is:  The hardware also needs to know the number of cylinders in a
port injected application.  I've never seen any code that reads the
cylinder select byte and writes it into an output port.  Thus, the
MEMCAL likely sets the number of cylinders (and PFI vs TBI modes.)

> Does anyone know of a 165 4cyl DIS app?  (or 808?)

The only '165 4cyl applications are: 1987-91 S10 2.5, 1986 (only!)
J-body 2.0 w/ MT (only!), and possibly some 1988-89 Isuzus.  You get to
look up which of these are DIS.

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/
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The 86 in my book just shows vin J and it's dissy.  The 2.5 as far as I know
are dissy also.
BTW, these others are single TBI, not TPI.........
Grumpy

| > Does anyone know of a 165 4cyl DIS app?  (or 808?)
| The only '165 4cyl applications are: 1987-91 S10 2.5, 1986 (only!)
| J-body 2.0 w/ MT (only!), and possibly some 1988-89 Isuzus.  You get to
| look up which of these are DIS.
|
| --
| Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
| Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/
| --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
| To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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|

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From: Chris Serrano <brace@mminternet.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: ford 3.8 v-6 DIS
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:11:20 -0800
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Can anyone tell me where to find out what years ford used DIS ignition
on the 3.8 v-6 and what cars it was in?
 
thanks...

Sometimes I like the weather in Long Beach, CA.
If mail bounces, please retry!
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 24 18:03:13 2000
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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 13:04:04 +1100
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: anthony schmidt <anthony@alsperf.com.au>
Subject: Delco, coil on plug 
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Does anyone know of a delco engine management system 
that runs 4 or 8 cyl with multicoil. We are looking at 
fitting this system to a late model 4cyl BMW.

Thanks for your time.
 
Anthony Schmidt
ALS Performance
Sydney Australia
anthony@alsperf.com.au
Phone 02 9798 6511
Fax   02 9798 9565
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <3.0.3.32.20000125130404.006ca2b0@mail.national.net.au>
Subject: Re: Delco, coil on plug 
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 21:26:12 -0500
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Starting in like 99 on the LS1 engine series,
called smart coils, about $40 (good guy price) USA each.
Takes special coil wires.
Check the archives was some limited data here or at the gmecm archives
Grumpy


| Does anyone know of a delco engine management system
| that runs 4 or 8 cyl with multicoil. We are looking at
| fitting this system to a late model 4cyl BMW.
|
| Thanks for your time.
|
| Anthony Schmidt
| ALS Performance
| Sydney Australia
| anthony@alsperf.com.au
| Phone 02 9798 6511
| Fax   02 9798 9565
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 24 21:33:25 2000
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From: "Diego Martin Monteverde" <mmontev@sinectis.com.ar>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Alfa 33 16 Valves 
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 02:37:35 -0300
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Hi,

Do anyone know the entry points of the alfa 33 16 valves motronic EPROM?

Regards,

Martin
-----Mensaje original-----
De: DIY_EFI Digest <DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@diy-efi.org>
Para: DIY_EFI-Digest@lists.diy-efi.org <DIY_EFI-Digest@lists.diy-efi.org>
Fecha: Jueves 20 de Enero de 2000 22:37
Asunto: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #33


>
>DIY_EFI Digest       Thursday, January 20 2000       Volume 05 : Number 033
>
>
>
>In this issue:
>
> 7730v2 ecu file
> re:Minimum to run GMECM?
> Re: re:Minimum to run GMECM?
> [admin] test diy_efi@esl 1
>
>See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the
>DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 14:47:17 -0700
>From: cwagner@info2000.net
>Subject: 7730v2 ecu file
>
>If anyone is interested, I uploaded a new ecu file to incoming.  The
>ecu file is for use with the 8D code (90-92 Corvett and Camaro).
>Let me know how it works.  It is specifically taylored for use with
>Winbin and Promedit 6.
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 17:10:31 -0500
>From: "jtyler" <jtyler@ga.prestige.net>
>Subject: re:Minimum to run GMECM?
>
>>Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 10:07:27 -0500
>>From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
>>Subject: Re: re:Minimum to run GMECM?
>
>>You want to run the system, in your own configuration, for what ever
>reason.  Your not going to like it when your done.
>>Look in the archives, for the dozen of so threads about deleting the >VSS.
The other inputs are all necessary, also.
>
>VSS controls (at least) :
>
>Idle air Control Valve. Manual Trans/manual clutch.  I only need one Idle
speed after warm up.
>
>Canister Purge.   Emissions are a non issue for this app.
>Torque Converter.  Manual trans....
>Cruise.   don't care it doesn't have one
>Trans shift solenoids.  manual trans....
>Electric cooling fans.  A simple temp controlled fan is fine.  The ECM
>   doesn't need to do this.
>
>Perhaps this application is just too basic for all that GM wizardry...
>sorry I bothered you with it.
>
>Jim
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 17:27:08 -0500
>From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
>Subject: Re: re:Minimum to run GMECM?
>
>THESE ARE ALL OUTPUTS!!!!.
>If you want to get/or seemingly pissy, fine, I'll withdraw my efforts to
>answer your questions.
>Grumpy
>
>| Canister Purge.   Emissions are a non issue for this app.
>| Torque Converter.  Manual trans....
>| Cruise.   don't care it doesn't have one
>| Trans shift solenoids.  manual trans....
>| Electric cooling fans.  A simple temp controlled fan is fine.  The ECM
>|    doesn't need to do this.
>| Perhaps this application is just too basic for all that GM wizardry...
>| sorry I bothered you with it.
>| Jim
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 18:43:58 -0500
>From: jsg@jsgpc.mrcday.com
>Subject: [admin] test diy_efi@esl 1
>
>- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
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>------------------------------
>
>End of DIY_EFI Digest V5 #33
>****************************
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan 24 22:52:53 2000
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From: Orin <orin>
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Subject: Re: Delco, coil on plug
In-Reply-To: <023f01bf66db$8d9b4f20$4d0ac9d8@v1b1k1> from Bruce Plecan at "Jan
 24, 2000 09:26:12 pm"
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The 'Corvette' coils?  I've run my Audi 5000 turbo engine
on five of them.  Regular Bosch end wires plugged right in!
Electronics to drive them is a different matter...

Orin.

> Starting in like 99 on the LS1 engine series,
> called smart coils, about $40 (good guy price) USA each.
> Takes special coil wires.
> Check the archives was some limited data here or at the gmecm archives
> Grumpy
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 25 11:04:08 2000
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <gnttype@gnttype.org>, <gmecm@diy-efi.org>, <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Fw: Water injection (tech refs)
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 14:11:22 -0500
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>From another list,
just thought some folks might like to get the real info., about H2O
injection.
Personally, the Harry Ricardo book had enough detail to satisfy me....
Bruce

| > If you try to cool compressed air by injecting water, you
| > are cooling the intake but displacing oxygen molecules with
| > water molecules.  Does this actually result in a net
| > increase in oxygen for combustion?  I would inject the
| > water into the intake ports to get liquid water into the
| > combustion chamber, not water vapor.
| The main purpose of water injection is to avoid detonation,
| which allows for more spark advance and/or more boost.  But
| water injection can also improve volumetric efficiency, so
| yes there is actually a net increase in oxygen (up to a
| certain rate of water injection, approx 50% to 100% of fuel).

| From:

| OK, here are my references on water injection:
IThere is some really nice water injection data in A. R. Rogowski's
| textbook "Elements of Internal Combustion Engines", McGraw-Hill, 1953,
| ISBN 07-053575-2, pages 106-109 (unfortunately out of print last time I
| checked).  He shows 50% improvement in detonation-limited IMEP (basically
| torque) at stoichiometry, and 28% under more typical fuel-rich conditions,
| using water flow at 50% of fuel flow.  He showed that you get about 2/3 of
| the benefit using water flow at 25% of fuel flow.  It's not clear from the
| text, but I think these benefits were from increasing boost.  The data is
| referenced from Rowe and Ladd, Journal of the SAE volume 54, no. 1, Jan.
| 1946, which is more widely available than the textbook.
|
| SAE paper 690018 "Inlet manifold water injection for control of nitrogen
| oxides - theory and experiment", by Nicholls, El-Messiri, and Newhall,
| 1969.  Mostly part throttle, but does show 12% benefit in max torque with
| water flow at 50% of fuel flow (naturally aspirated).  [Oops, that was
| model results, actual data showed much less benefit.]
|
| A good history and practical tips are available in "Turbochargers" by Hugh
| MacInnes, HPBooks (a division of Price Stern Sloan Inc.), 1984.
|
| Sir Harry Ricardo did extensive experiments with water injection in the
| 1920's, which are described in his textbook "The High-Speed Internal
| Combustion Engine", 1958, pages 36-40.  He concluded that water injection
| enabled a compression ratio increase from 4:1 to 5:1 with very low octane
| fuel, for about 10% fuel economy improvement.
|
| Water injection is rather briefly described in the classic textbook by
| Charles F. Taylor "The Internal-Combustion Engine in Theory and Practice"
| (1968, 1985) Volume 2, page 70.  He recommends water flow at 50% of fuel
| flow.
|
| There is quite a literature on water injection for piston aircraft engines
| from the 1940's, but they are not widely available.  Some examples are
| Rothrock et al., "The induction of water to the inlet air as a means of
| internal cooling in aircraft-engine cylinders", NACA TR 756, 1943; and
| Bellman and Evvard "Knock-limited performance of several internal
| coolants", NACA TR 812 (ARR), 1945.  Note that NACA was the precursor to
| NASA.


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 25 11:23:56 2000
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <gmecm@diy-efi.org>, <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Greddy air-fuel ratio meter
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Almost looks good, anyone have any details about the 4 wire Toyota O2
sensor, the tech guy at greddy's said it can read 18-8:1, but not to be used
for initial tuning????.
They want $300, for theirs.
Grumpy

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 25 12:07:33 2000
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From: bearbvd@cmn.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Greddy air-fuel ratio meter
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>Almost looks good, anyone have any details about the 4 wire Toyota O2
>sensor, the tech guy at greddy's said it can read 18-8:1, but not to be used
>for initial tuning????.
>They want $300, for theirs.
>Grumpy

Sounds like it must be the Bosch sensor--that one uses four wires--anybody
know for sure??

Greg
>
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Subject: Injector Info
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I have a 1988 firebird with the 2.8 MPFI V6 with 5 leaky injectors GM
casting # 5235210 

Any idea how many LB's per hour these are ? 

I have a set (8) of 5235211  19lb 305 injectors, possibly a substitute? 



 
 



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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 25 15:42:37 2000
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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 15:43:59 -0800
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"Peacock, Kenneth" wrote:
> 
> I have a 1988 firebird with the 2.8 MPFI V6 with 5 leaky injectors GM
> casting # 5235210
> 
> Any idea how many LB's per hour these are ?

Probably 15's.

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/
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There are a pair of files on incoming for now called GM_ECMArchives.zip
and GoodDIY_EFIArchives.zip. These are the referenced archives with
headers and quotes (as indicated by > or|) removed. There is a separator
between each message "-<><>....." and a three line header:
$Date: date information
$Subject: subject information
$From: sender

-- 
Robert W. Hughes (Bob)
BackYard Engineering
29:40.237N, 95:28.726W
Houston, Texas
rwhughe@ev1.net
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 25 18:16:40 2000
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From: "Diego Martin Monteverde" <mmontev@sinectis.com.ar>
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Subject: EDIS Coil Pack
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To the list,

How does the "EDIS Coil Pack" work?

Thanks

Martin

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan 25 19:47:45 2000
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From: "Diego Martin Monteverde" <mmontev@sinectis.com.ar>
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Subject: generic software
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Hello,

I'm wondering if there is in the diy_efi ftp server any free generic
software able to show/graph the contents of an EPROM.
If somebody knows, thanks in advance

Martin

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 26 06:05:59 2000
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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 08:02:59 -0600
From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
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Actually I deleted the bad DIYEFI archive and renamed the good one to:

DIY_EFIArchives.zip

--steve

"Robert W. Hughes" wrote:
> 
> There are a pair of files on incoming for now called GM_ECMArchives.zip
> and GoodDIY_EFIArchives.zip. These are the referenced archives with
> headers and quotes (as indicated by > or|) removed. There is a separator
> between each message "-<><>....." and a three line header:
> $Date: date information
> $Subject: subject information
> $From: sender
> 
> --
> Robert W. Hughes (Bob)
> BackYard Engineering
> 29:40.237N, 95:28.726W
> Houston, Texas
> rwhughe@ev1.net
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 26 06:24:58 2000
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winbin, promedit are both available on the ftp site (ftp.diy-efi.org). 
The catch is you have to tell the software where the tables are in the
image.  For some ECMs there are .ecu files with this info, for others
you have to figure it out.  Also look at www.tunercat.com for some
shareware.

--steve

Diego Martin Monteverde wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I'm wondering if there is in the diy_efi ftp server any free generic
> software able to show/graph the contents of an EPROM.
> If somebody knows, thanks in advance
> 
> Martin
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
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-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 26 06:41:38 2000
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Another great reference on water injection is in Obert's "Internal
Combustion Engines and Air Pollution".  He shows basically that the
beneficial effect of water injection is to suppress knock and if it is
used on an engine that is not knocking it has no beneficial effect (unless
it allows more spark timing that results in greater torque).  Water
injection is very effective in reducing NOx emissions (as is the addition
of any diluent).



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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 26 07:33:55 2000
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> | OK, here are my references on water injection:
> IThere is some really nice water injection data in A. R. Rogowski's
> | textbook "Elements of Internal Combustion Engines", McGraw-Hill, 1953,
> | ISBN 07-053575-2, pages 106-109 (unfortunately out of print last time I
> | checked).  He shows 50% improvement in detonation-limited IMEP (basically
> | torque) at stoichiometry, and 28% under more typical fuel-rich conditions,
> | using water flow at 50% of fuel flow.  He showed that you get about 2/3 of
> | the benefit using water flow at 25% of fuel flow.  It's not clear from the
> | text, but I think these benefits were from increasing boost.  The data is
> | referenced from Rowe and Ladd, Journal of the SAE volume 54, no. 1, Jan.
> | 1946, which is more widely available than the textbook.
> |
> | SAE paper 690018 "Inlet manifold water injection for control of nitrogen
> | oxides - theory and experiment", by Nicholls, El-Messiri, and Newhall,
> | 1969.  Mostly part throttle, but does show 12% benefit in max torque with
> | water flow at 50% of fuel flow (naturally aspirated).  [Oops, that was
> | model results, actual data showed much less benefit.]
> |
> | A good history and practical tips are available in "Turbochargers" by Hugh
> | MacInnes, HPBooks (a division of Price Stern Sloan Inc.), 1984.
> |
> | Sir Harry Ricardo did extensive experiments with water injection in the
> | 1920's, which are described in his textbook "The High-Speed Internal
> | Combustion Engine", 1958, pages 36-40.  He concluded that water injection
> | enabled a compression ratio increase from 4:1 to 5:1 with very low octane
> | fuel, for about 10% fuel economy improvement.
> |
> | Water injection is rather briefly described in the classic textbook by
> | Charles F. Taylor "The Internal-Combustion Engine in Theory and Practice"
> | (1968, 1985) Volume 2, page 70.  He recommends water flow at 50% of fuel
> | flow.
> |
> | There is quite a literature on water injection for piston aircraft engines
> | from the 1940's, but they are not widely available.  Some examples are
> | Rothrock et al., "The induction of water to the inlet air as a means of
> | internal cooling in aircraft-engine cylinders", NACA TR 756, 1943; and
> | Bellman and Evvard "Knock-limited performance of several internal
> | coolants", NACA TR 812 (ARR), 1945.  Note that NACA was the precursor to
> | NASA.
>

My Father was a radio operator for the Royal Air Force bomber command during WWII.
He told me that to get fully loaded Lancaster bombers off the ground from some of
the small grass airstrips, they sent the engines throught the gate (overode the
max rev limiter) and injected a mixture of water and methanol. He knows nothing
about the science behind this, all he knew was it gave a tremendous power boost.
Anyone on the list ever heard of this?

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 26 07:52:43 2000
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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 13:08:37 -0700
From: bearbvd@cmn.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Greddy air-fuel ratio meter

>Almost looks good, anyone have any details about the 4 wire Toyota O2
>sensor, the tech guy at greddy's said it can read 18-8:1, but not to be used
>for initial tuning????.
>They want $300, for theirs.
>Grumpy

Sounds like it must be the Bosch sensor--that one uses four wires--anybody
know for sure??


Grumpy/Greg

The Toyota sensor can in fact measure a broad range of a/f ratios but so far,
there is little information we have in the US as to how it actually works.

The sensor does have 4 wires, B+ for heater, ground for heater - controlled by
ecm (pwm), afr+ which supplies +3.3v from the ecm to one side of the sensor, and
afr- which the ecm supplies +3.0v to the other side of the sensor.

We do see a variable voltage when using a scanner tool but when you measure the
sensor itself, voltage is not moving with major shifts in afr????  The general
thought is that it  monitors the amperage and the direction of current flow to
determine the afr. The scan tool voltage is a calculated # to give diagnostic
functions.

Very good and incredibly accurate sensor which operates in a linear fashion to
afr.

This will probably add more questions than it answers but it is a start.

Scott
>


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 26 08:25:56 2000
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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 09:27:07 -0700
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: bearbvd@cmn.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #39,toyota o2
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>Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 13:08:37 -0700
>From: bearbvd@cmn.net (Greg Hermann)
>Subject: Re: Greddy air-fuel ratio meter
>
>>Almost looks good, anyone have any details about the 4 wire Toyota O2
>>sensor, the tech guy at greddy's said it can read 18-8:1, but not to be used
>>for initial tuning????.
>>They want $300, for theirs.
>>Grumpy
>
>Sounds like it must be the Bosch sensor--that one uses four wires--anybody
>know for sure??
>
>
>Grumpy/Greg
>
>The Toyota sensor can in fact measure a broad range of a/f ratios but so far,
>there is little information we have in the US as to how it actually works.
>
>The sensor does have 4 wires, B+ for heater, ground for heater - controlled by
>ecm (pwm), afr+ which supplies +3.3v from the ecm to one side of the
>sensor, and
>afr- which the ecm supplies +3.0v to the other side of the sensor.
>
>We do see a variable voltage when using a scanner tool but when you measure the
>sensor itself, voltage is not moving with major shifts in afr????  The general
>thought is that it  monitors the amperage and the direction of current flow to
>determine the afr. The scan tool voltage is a calculated # to give diagnostic
>functions.
>
>Very good and incredibly accurate sensor which operates in a linear fashion to
>afr.
>
>This will probably add more questions than it answers but it is a start.
>
>Scott

I suspect that Frank Parker is right. The NTK sensors started out life with
seven wires, went to six, then to five. Sounds like this may well be a four
wire iteration of it that Toyota is using. If so, the Greddy meter might be
a pretty good deal indeed.

Greg
>>
>
>
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I have seen several articles over the years about water injection for high
compression engine running on low octane street gas, and I believe methanol
alcohol mixed with water gives better results.

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<TITLE>RE: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #39</TITLE>
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<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>I have seen several articles over the years about =
water injection for high compression engine running on low octane =
street gas, and I believe methanol alcohol mixed with water gives =
better results.</FONT></P>

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 26 09:52:12 2000
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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 12:55:08 -0500
From: Rex Weatherford <rex.weatherford@terraglyph.com>
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I was looking at the schematic for Dave's meter and had a few questions.

What is the LM3914? 

It says I can buy a meter like this from JC whitney for $20?  Is that
true?

How are these used...  I know that my ECM looks for values between .100v
and 1.1v.  And that my EGO sensor has to warm up before this means
anything.  Correct?

My car is a Beretta GTZ with Olds Quad4.  Will I be able to tell when
the car is reach and lean from this?  I'd assume so.


Thanks...

I'm sure I'll have more questions.


Rex
92 Beretta GTZ
http://www.beretta.net
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 26 10:43:34 2000
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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 12:51:58 -0500
From: Jim Fitzgerald <jfitz@fnal.gov>
Subject: Water Inj, T. Retard story
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	I had good success with water injection on a turbo Mustang. (79 suck
thru the carb model, 2.3L 4cyl).  I used a VW W. Washer bottle
pressurized by turbo boost to make volume proportional to boost. I exp.
with many jets and injected ahead of turbo, Casual driving tips in the
turbo and wastes water, so I used an adjustable pressure switch and a
solenoid valve to limit consumption.   I used W. Washer fluid most of
the time, to get more cooling and enrichment from the alcohol content,
besides it gets cold here in IL and plain water would freeze.
	The Mustang originally had a crude OEM electronic timing retard system,
two (boost) pressure switches that retarded the timing in steps at about
2 and 6 lb. of boost. I replaced this with a mechanical setup, using a
modified compound vacuum advance can from a Ford V8.  I could adjust it
with it with built in screw, and with an external pressure bleed, same
as for the turbo waste gate.  It gave smooth, continuous and linear adv.
and retard curves.
	The combo of the water and the timing retard allowed boost to about 15
lb..  I could run with the 5L V8s until they switched to EFI.  Heaven
forbid if the water tank would run dry though, the engine would knock
itself silly before I could off the throttle, never broke it though, ran
for 110K, until turbo seals left.  Anyone contemplating water injection
should look into a water level switch that would limit boost and/or timing....
Jim F.
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 26 10:51:38 2000
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Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 10:34:34 -0800
From: Rich Schimmelbusch <rschimmelbusch@worldnet.att.net>
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"Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net> wrote:
> .......why not wire it to a 1227747 (gm ecm), get
> a copy of the demoware from Tunercat, a chip burner, an eraser, and some
> spare proms, and custonize a good computer to your needs.
>    I don't know if any of the holleys use an IAC, might need to get Howell
> to modify it, or get one from a junkyard, the BBC have a 2" butterfly
> Grumpy

This thread is timely for me as I want to start this project on my SBC.  I sent
Howell an e-mail asking about their 4bbl kit, along with a fairly detailed
description of my application, and all I got back was "the 4 bbl kit has been
discontinued.  What year car is this going into."!!  So now I have a re-worded
query pending with them regarding the 2 bbl kit.  Maybe they'd like to sell one
of those...

It sounds like IAC is the mod required on the Holley TB to make it work?  Does
anyone know which Holley TB is a candidate for the modification, analog, D, or
Di, or is there a difference?  Nothing a competent machinist couldn't handle,
right?  Can everything else remain stock?  Harness?  (Howell sells a modified
harness one...)  I would prefer a 4 bbl TB; are there any stock solutions that
would bolt to a square or spread-bore flange?   As far as 2 to 4 bbl adapters
go, hood clearance is tight already.

Here is what I wrote them:
> ....355 c.i. Chev small block with forged flat-top pistons built around an
> Edelbrock Performer cam (204/214 deg. @ 0.050 in., 0.420/0.442 in.) and manifold
> (idle-5500 rpm) package.  The engine uses iron L31 Vortec heads, exhausting through
> 1 5/8 x 36 in. headers.  The headers will be replaced and I will probably use a
> "shorty" style.  This is installed in a 1979 z/28 (3700 lbs.) currently in front
> of a THM 350 automatic (2.52/1.52/1:1), but probably to be replaced by a THM
> 200-4R (2.54/1.57/1:1/0.67).  The rear gears are 3.42.

Hmmm, it does say what year the vehicle is... so their tech weenies can't read
either.

> .... The idea of using production chevrolet parts with their attendant ease of
> replacement also appeals to me.  I would like use the 1227747 computer, components
> (distributor, etc.), and sensors from the '87-'90 GM TBI system.  Since I am using
> the Vortec heads and Edelbrock manifold, I obviously need to use a throttle body
> assembly that will bolt on a square or spread-bore flange.  I am able to change
> camshafts if recommended, but I don't think I am able to go to the Performer
> RPM manifold due to hood clearance considerations. 

Thanks in advance to anyone who can enlighten me in these matters!  
-- 
Rich
mailto:rschimmelbusch@.att.net
coming soon http://www.RainierAviation.com


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 26 11:14:41 2000
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From: garwillis@msn.com (Garfield Willis)
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Greddy air-fuel ratio meter
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 11:28:07 -0800
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On Tue, 25 Jan 2000 14:31:12 -0500 "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
wrote:

>Almost looks good, anyone have any details about the 4 wire Toyota O2
>sensor, the tech guy at greddy's said it can read 18-8:1, but not to be used
>for initial tuning????.
>They want $300, for theirs.
>Grumpy

On Tue, 25 Jan 2000 13:08:37 -0700 bearbvd@cmn.net (Greg Hermann) wrote:

>Sounds like it must be the Bosch sensor--that one uses four wires--anybody
>know for sure??
>
>Greg

Hey Bruce, Greg,

There is a Toyota (Denso) current-pump style wideband O2 sensor that is
4-wires (scant literature says it senses the same pair of terminals for
Vs-sensor output as it pumps current thru for Ip-current pump input; not
sure how they can do that), the Toyota-Denso part no. is: 89467-33010,
the application is the *front* (pre-cat) sensor, refered to as "Air Fuel
Sensor" on Lexus RX300 and Toyota ES300 3.0 V6 *California-only cars*
(that app. info is from old notes, and I can't put me fingers on the
year data at the moment)

...BUT...

I seriously doubt this is it. That sensor alone costs around $300 from
Toyota (alot more than the Honda-NTK 5-wire sensor, for example), so
it's doubtful a meter based on it would retail for around $300. Plus,
the statement that it isn't useable for initial tune is perhaps a
giveaway that the Greddy product isn't really based on a wideband O2
device, but rather a conventional heated 4-wire sensor-based meter,
similar to the LED gizmos often sold as "low-cost AFR meters".

As far as it being the older Bosch LSM-11 4-wire sensor that Greg
alludes to, I also kinda doubt it, again from the price-point, and I'm
not aware of Toyota ever using it in any of their products.

Was this viewable on the web somewhere, Bruce? I didn't see it on the
Greddy site.

Gar


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 26 12:09:27 2000
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From: "Gavin" <gavston@sprockets.freeserve.co.uk>
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Anybody know whats happened to it, or an alternate address?¿?

His bit in the projects page on the DIY_EFI site absolutely brilliant!(Hey,
I'm a newbie at this!), and I want to see what else he has got up to.

Myself, I'm starting a new programmable CDI box for a two-stroke bike.  It's
only ignition,(although on some modern crossers they have powerjet carbs),
but I hope to have a shift light setup, rev-limiter, and maybe a switch on
the bars to switch to different ignition curves.  But hey, I think getting
the bike running with my homebrew box will be a start.

Oh, BTW, anybody got any info on bike CDI boxes, (Preferably not the big
bike boxes which incorporate EFI as well, but any info is much appreciated!)

Thanks a lot.
                        Gavin



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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 26 13:34:44 2000
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There is a file on incoming for now called EFI332Archives.zip
 This is the referenced archives with
headers and quotes (as indicated by > or|)and blank lines removed. There
is a separator
between each message "-<><>....." and a three line header:
$Date: date information
$Subject: subject information
$From: sender
also the WINMAIL trash has been removed.
-- 
Robert W. Hughes (Bob)
BackYard Engineering
29:40.237N, 95:28.726W
Houston, Texas
rwhughe@ev1.net
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 26 14:17:19 2000
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Subject: Re: Holley Projection 2D [long]
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To make a long story short, unless you have a Holley TB in your hands for
free, just go to a recycling center, and get a TB of a BBC.  It will have
80, or 90 lb/hr injectors already.  If too big find a late GM Cab and look
for the Brn/Yel injectors.
More color ID's in archives.
BTW, the BBC TB has 2" buttterflies like the Holley, and the IAC is already
there.
I'm glad to hear Howell, figured out what they were doing was at least dumb,
or wrong.  That was a long thread.......
Grumpy



----- Original Message -----
From: Rich Schimmelbusch <rschimmelbusch@worldnet.att.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 1:34 PM
Subject: Re: Holley Projection 2D [long]


| "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net> wrote:
| > .......why not wire it to a 1227747 (gm ecm), get
| > a copy of the demoware from Tunercat, a chip burner, an eraser, and some
| > spare proms, and custonize a good computer to your needs.
| >    I don't know if any of the holleys use an IAC, might need to get
Howell
| > to modify it, or get one from a junkyard, the BBC have a 2" butterfly
| > Grumpy
|
| This thread is timely for me as I want to start this project on my SBC.  I
sent
| Howell an e-mail asking about their 4bbl kit, along with a fairly detailed
| description of my application, and all I got back was "the 4 bbl kit has
been
| discontinued.  What year car is this going into."!!  So now I have a
re-worded
| query pending with them regarding the 2 bbl kit.  Maybe they'd like to
sell one
| of those...
|
| It sounds like IAC is the mod required on the Holley TB to make it work?
Does
| anyone know which Holley TB is a candidate for the modification, analog,
D, or
| Di, or is there a difference?  Nothing a competent machinist couldn't
handle,
| right?  Can everything else remain stock?  Harness?  (Howell sells a
modified
| harness one...)  I would prefer a 4 bbl TB; are there any stock solutions
that
| would bolt to a square or spread-bore flange?   As far as 2 to 4 bbl
adapters
| go, hood clearance is tight already.
|
| Here is what I wrote them:
| > ....355 c.i. Chev small block with forged flat-top pistons built around
an
| > Edelbrock Performer cam (204/214 deg. @ 0.050 in., 0.420/0.442 in.) and
manifold
| > (idle-5500 rpm) package.  The engine uses iron L31 Vortec heads,
exhausting through
| > 1 5/8 x 36 in. headers.  The headers will be replaced and I will
probably use a
| > "shorty" style.  This is installed in a 1979 z/28 (3700 lbs.) currently
in front
| > of a THM 350 automatic (2.52/1.52/1:1), but probably to be replaced by a
THM
| > 200-4R (2.54/1.57/1:1/0.67).  The rear gears are 3.42.
|
| Hmmm, it does say what year the vehicle is... so their tech weenies can't
read
| either.
|
| > .... The idea of using production chevrolet parts with their attendant
ease of
| > replacement also appeals to me.  I would like use the 1227747 computer,
components
| > (distributor, etc.), and sensors from the '87-'90 GM TBI system.  Since
I am using
| > the Vortec heads and Edelbrock manifold, I obviously need to use a
throttle body
| > assembly that will bolt on a square or spread-bore flange.  I am able to
change
| > camshafts if recommended, but I don't think I am able to go to the
Performer
| > RPM manifold due to hood clearance considerations.
|
| Thanks in advance to anyone who can enlighten me in these matters!
| --
| Rich
| mailto:rschimmelbusch@.att.net
| coming soon http://www.RainierAviation.com
|
|
| --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 26 14:29:06 2000
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <388F34FC.3D46F85E@terraglyph.com>
Subject: Re: Dave Morrills O2 meter?
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 17:36:25 -0500
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Before you do anything search EGOR, and stuff like O2 sensor
Grumpy

| I was looking at the schematic for Dave's meter and had a few questions.
| What is the LM3914? 
| It says I can buy a meter like this from JC whitney for $20?  Is that
| true?
| How are these used...  I know that my ECM looks for values between .100v
| and 1.1v.  And that my EGO sensor has to warm up before this means
| anything.  Correct?
| 

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From: "Greg Moore" <gmoore@island.net>
To: <DIY_EFI@lists.diy-efi.org>
Subject: basic tuning
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 15:24:13 -0800
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------=_NextPart_000_00AF_01BF6811.66F79EA0
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Hello all,

Can anyone point me to a site that has basic tuning information? How to =
recognize when the timing is optimized and mixture is right for the =
conditions - load, rpm etc.

I've installed a TEC11 on a Mercedes M30 (2.8l I6) that's in a '59 =
Unimog. It's been running great for a year now but I'd like to learn =
more about recognizing 'ideal' timing and fuel maps. I'm also toying =
with the idea of adding a turbo (mild 4-5lb boost) so I'd like to =
research how to tune for that.

Thanks.

Cheers, Greg

------=_NextPart_000_00AF_01BF6811.66F79EA0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hello all,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Can anyone point me to a site that has basic tuning=20
information? How to recognize when the timing is optimized and mixture =
is right=20
for the conditions - load, rpm etc.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I've installed a TEC11 on a Mercedes M30 (2.8l I6) =
that's in a=20
'59 Unimog. It's been running great for a year now but I'd like to learn =
more=20
about recognizing 'ideal' timing and fuel maps. I'm also toying with the =
idea of=20
adding a turbo (mild 4-5lb boost) so I'd like to research how to tune =
for=20
that.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Cheers, Greg</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 26 15:32:55 2000
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References: <00b201bf6854$8cc62280$53e834d1@gmoore>
Subject: Re: basic tuning
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  At the FTP site
  Tuning.doc
  Grumpy


  Hello all,

  Can anyone point me to a site that has basic tuning information? How =
to recognize when the timing is optimized and mixture is right for the =
conditions - load, rpm etc.

  I've installed a TEC11 on a Mercedes M30 (2.8l I6) that's in a '59 =
Unimog. It's been running great for a year now but I'd like to learn =
more about recognizing 'ideal' timing and fuel maps. I'm also toying =
with the idea of adding a turbo (mild 4-5lb boost) so I'd like to =
research how to tune for that.

  Thanks.

  Cheers, Greg

------=_NextPart_000_012C_01BF682C.C89941C0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">At the FTP site</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">Tuning.doc</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">Grumpy</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hello all,</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Can anyone point me to a site that has basic =
tuning=20
  information? How to recognize when the timing is optimized and mixture =
is=20
  right for the conditions - load, rpm etc.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>I've installed a TEC11 on a Mercedes M30 (2.8l I6) =
that's in=20
  a '59 Unimog. It's been running great for a year now but I'd like to =
learn=20
  more about recognizing 'ideal' timing and fuel maps. I'm also toying =
with the=20
  idea of adding a turbo (mild 4-5lb boost) so I'd like to research how =
to tune=20
  for that.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Cheers, =
Greg</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 26 15:51:00 2000
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From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org, gmecm@diy-efi.org, fourth-gen@f-body.org
Subject: Where to get 1-2 fuel injectors (Ford SVO 30lb equivalents)
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Hello,

I have what I believe is a marginal fuel injector.  One of the header
pipes glows a light orange while the car is warming up (and lightly
missing).    After the car gets warmed up, the injector starts working
correctly.   This appears to have been a problem on my car for a
while, I am pretty sure it is a bad injector and not a electrical
problem, since it is pretty reliable that after it gets warmer it
appears to start working correctly.    Also the car is batch fire, so
the only electrical problem possible is the wires connecting the
injector to the other injectors on  that side are bad.   This is the
only header pipe glowing, and I can clearly feel when the injector
starts working correctly and I can clearly feel when it stops again
(as it is warming up, it goes in and out).

The injectors are Ford SVO 30lb/hr injectors, and ideas on what part
number this would be?   The local parts places need to know what the
original vehicle was, and that I have no idea about.   The injectors
are currently installed on a 93 Z28.

				Roger
				rah@hit.net

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 26 17:53:41 2000
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Subject: Re: Where to get 1-2 fuel injectors (Ford SVO 30lb equivalents)
In-Reply-To: <Pine.BSI.3.95.1000126174236.11617B-100000@horizon.hit.net> from
 Roger Heflin at "Jan 26, 2000 05:50:13 pm"
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> 
> I have what I believe is a marginal fuel injector.  One of the header
> pipes glows a light orange while the car is warming up (and lightly
> missing).    After the car gets warmed up, the injector starts working
> correctly.   This appears to have been a problem on my car for a
> while, I am pretty sure it is a bad injector and not a electrical
> problem, since it is pretty reliable that after it gets warmer it
> appears to start working correctly.    Also the car is batch fire, so
> the only electrical problem possible is the wires connecting the
> injector to the other injectors on  that side are bad.   This is the
> only header pipe glowing, and I can clearly feel when the injector
> starts working correctly and I can clearly feel when it stops again
> (as it is warming up, it goes in and out).

Obvious thing to try is swap the injector with one of its mates
and see if the problem moves before buying anything new.

Orin.
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 26 18:23:17 2000
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My mechanic friend Wiley told me a story about water injection.  He said when he
rebuilt rv motors that used water injection, they had very bad taper on the
cylinders.  He believes the water injection acted like a steam cleaner and removed the
oil film from the cylinder walls...  Water injection use became popular with RV's and
high compression motors when super leaded fell out of use.  My friend believes the
engines suffered more damage than benefit from its use, also HP suffers greatly from
using it, even though high levels of boost can be maintained.  Might be some food for
thought.

He suggested a better substitute for water injection that would not kill power.  This
involves setting the EGR up for use under WOT in some sort of fashion... Maybe I
misunderstood him, but does sound like an idea.  If the EGR valve could be controlled
by the ECU and opened when the knock sensor was set off or by a knock sum.  This might
work as an alternative to water injection without some of the disadvantages, such as
running out of water.  From some of the stories from other posters, guess the water
injection can definitely work though.

Chuck

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 27 09:09:47 20
