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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Fw: Pop Off Valve
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 01:33:19 -0500
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 Anyone have any links, ideas, part no.s for a cheap effective pop off
valve?. 
 Electric or vac/boost operated considered.
Instant acting 2" valve would be nice but for a 231 at 25 PSI what *sounds*
right?.
TIA
Bruce

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  1 22:40:13 2001
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Subject: Re: Way to measure HP?
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Why not get G-TECH/Pro?
They sell for only $139.95.
http://www.gtechpro.com/prod.html

FR Wilk
___________________________________

----- Original Message -----
From: "Wes Branchflower" <hemi_265@hotmail.com>
> Does anyone know how to read the signal from ABS brakes to get an accurate
> indication of tire RPM? As james said, if you weigh the mass of the car,
> possible on a weigh bridge, with yourself, and all pieces of equipment you
> use, then you can log wheel RPM, and knowing the outside diameter of your
> tires calcualate distance over time. using a bit of math and an engine RPM
> input, you'd possibly be able to get a Rear wheel HP figure. As long as
you
> didn't get any wheelspin, which would suddenly turn your car into a 1000hp
> monster ;) (by the 'dyno' anyway)
>
> But many variables will change such as wind resistance, tire diameter
(with
> wear) and most of all changing vechile weight 1. with the person driving
the
> car, and 2. with how much petrol you have in the tank.
>
> If you REALLY wanted to you could connect up some sort of calibration to
the
> fuel gauge to adjust the effective 'mass' value in the calculation with
> chaging fuel levels. It might be hard to adjust the 'dyno' when rolling at
> vechile momentum will play a part in the result.
>
> I think this might be accurate enough for the purposes you seek. It would
be
> interesting how accurate you could get it, possible a few dyno runs as
> mentioned by someone else earlier to calibrate it.
>
>
> Or if you just want it to 'look good' who says it has to be real eh? *wink
> wink*
>
> hopefully i haven't just repeated everyone else. I've been up for 48 hours
> straight, drunk for most of it in new years, etc.. and yeah here i am! :)
>
>
> HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  1 22:51:58 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Way to measure HP?
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 22:55:7 -0800
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Amen to that, I just came back from the track & double checked the numbers
that i got from the G-tech to the numbers that i got from the Data Master
to the numbers that i got from the timing lights @ the track.  they were
all close enough that i can confidently tune & test w/o having to goto the
track every time I want to check progress (or digress).  now if only there
was some way to not get those pesky "exhibition (sp) of speed" tickets when
warming up the meats.

BW



> [Original Message]
> From: 944Technologist <f_wilk@hotmail.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Date: 1/1/01 10:41:00 PM
> Subject: Re: Way to measure HP?
>
> Why not get G-TECH/Pro?
> They sell for only $139.95.
> http://www.gtechpro.com/prod.html
> 
> FR Wilk
> ___________________________________
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wes Branchflower" <hemi_265@hotmail.com>
> > Does anyone know how to read the signal from ABS brakes to get an
accurate
> > indication of tire RPM? As james said, if you weigh the mass of the car,
> > possible on a weigh bridge, with yourself, and all pieces of equipment
you
> > use, then you can log wheel RPM, and knowing the outside diameter of
your
> > tires calcualate distance over time. using a bit of math and an engine
RPM
> > input, you'd possibly be able to get a Rear wheel HP figure. As long as
> you
> > didn't get any wheelspin, which would suddenly turn your car into a
1000hp
> > monster ;) (by the 'dyno' anyway)
> >
> > But many variables will change such as wind resistance, tire diameter
> (with
> > wear) and most of all changing vechile weight 1. with the person driving
> the
> > car, and 2. with how much petrol you have in the tank.
> >
> > If you REALLY wanted to you could connect up some sort of calibration to
> the
> > fuel gauge to adjust the effective 'mass' value in the calculation with
> > chaging fuel levels. It might be hard to adjust the 'dyno' when rolling
at
> > vechile momentum will play a part in the result.
> >
> > I think this might be accurate enough for the purposes you seek. It
would
> be
> > interesting how accurate you could get it, possible a few dyno runs as
> > mentioned by someone else earlier to calibrate it.
> >
> >
> > Or if you just want it to 'look good' who says it has to be real eh?
*wink
> > wink*
> >
> > hopefully i haven't just repeated everyone else. I've been up for 48
hours
> > straight, drunk for most of it in new years, etc.. and yeah here i am!
:)
> >
> >
> > HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!
> 
>
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> 



--- Bob Wooten
--- r71chevy@earthlink.net
--- 71-91 RS Camaro
--- Never mind LT1, this is LT100


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  2 02:27:07 2001
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who's got what to say about any of them.....

I'm looking for a reasonable priced software package that would simulate 2, 3,
4, 5 valves, long plenum, short plenum, different exhaust, etc

basically I want the most versitile set-up but don't want to pay thousands...any
chance there's a shareware package out there somewhere that would come close to
what I want???




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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  2 03:58:21 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Fw: Pop Off Valve
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 06:57:35 -0500
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First gen diamond star turbo cars have an effective inexpensive pop off 
valve. It's metal compared to the chaper BOSCH plastic ones. Some of the 12 
sec ecplipses use them with good results


>From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: Fw: Pop Off Valve
>Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 01:33:19 -0500
>
>
>
>
>  Anyone have any links, ideas, part no.s for a cheap effective pop off
>valve?.
>  Electric or vac/boost operated considered.
>Instant acting 2" valve would be nice but for a 231 at 25 PSI what *sounds*
>right?.
>TIA
>Bruce
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  2 04:20:22 2001
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From: Jeroen Proveniers <J.Proveniers@orga.nl>
To: "'DIY EFI'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: [OT] Boom boom sound
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 13:14:17 +0100 
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Hai,

Some cars have that typical boom boom sound in the exhaust when the throttle
is released (Alfa Romeo 33 for example); I really like this sound. I do not
know the cause of it, but I want my car to have it. Is there anything I
could make? It's a Ford Sierra with injected 2 litre engine, completely
orginal.

JJ
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  2 05:40:53 2001
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Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 08:40:04 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: Pop Off Valve
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Is this part of the compressor housing, or is it a separate part?
TIA
Mike V
 
>  First gen diamond star turbo cars have an effective inexpensive pop off 
>  valve. It's metal compared to the chaper BOSCH plastic ones. Some of the 
12 
>  sec ecplipses use them with good results
>  
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  2 06:04:02 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Fw: Pop Off Valve
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 09:03:56 -0500
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Let's make sure that we have our terminology straight here, I might 
confused, by pop off valve, I take that to mean a blow off valve of B.O.V, 
the purpose of the B.O.V. to vent positive intake pressure when the throttle 
plate is closed (normall during a shif), this eliminates the pressure wave 
from damaging the turbo. By asking if this B.O.V is part of the compressor 
housing it almost sounds like you are asking if this is a wastegate used to 
limit boost levels.

The short answer to you question though, is no this is not part of the 
compressor housing it mounts using a diamond shaped flange with two bolts to 
the intake pipe.


>From: ECMnut@aol.com
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>Subject: Re: Fw: Pop Off Valve
>Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 08:40:04 EST
>
>Is this part of the compressor housing, or is it a separate part?
>TIA
>Mike V
>
> >  First gen diamond star turbo cars have an effective inexpensive pop off
> >  valve. It's metal compared to the chaper BOSCH plastic ones. Some of 
>the
>12
> >  sec ecplipses use them with good results
> >
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  2 06:11:33 2001
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Bruce, do you want a "pop off" valve or a "bypass" valve. The large HKS
bypass valve can be used as a popoff but they do have an adjustable pop off
valve. Are you having boost spikes or is this preventive medicine? Problem
with any mechanical spring loaded valve is that it will start to "bleed"
before it gets to the set pressure. The closest I've seen to a open/shut
mechanical valve is the "Grainger valve". It's a vacuum check valve that can
be reversed and used as a pressure check valve. Have to change the spring
inside to get them to work up as high as 25 psi but they are very effective.
http://pages.cthome.net/gus/mike.html
This fellow explains how to modify and use the valves. I've used the 2 step
setup on GN's at 15 and 25 psi with NO boost spiking with both Terry Houston
downpipes and Turbonectics wastegates. Very effective. I use a pressure
regulated air supply in the shop to set the "G valve" to about 2 psi less
than the boost level I want to see on the guage. Mark Riley

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2001 1:33 AM
Subject: Fw: Pop Off Valve


>
>
>
>  Anyone have any links, ideas, part no.s for a cheap effective pop off
> valve?.
>  Electric or vac/boost operated considered.
> Instant acting 2" valve would be nice but for a 231 at 25 PSI what
*sounds*
> right?.
> TIA
> Bruce
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  2 06:36:29 2001
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From: Guy Hammer <guyh@teleport.com>
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Subject: Re: engine simulators
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On Tue, 02 Jan 2001, Stephen Burgess writes:
> I'm looking for a reasonable priced software package that would simulate 2, 3,
> 4, 5 valves, long plenum, short plenum, different exhaust, etc
> 
> basically I want the most versitile set-up but don't want to pay thousands...any
> chance there's a shareware package out there somewhere that would come close to
> what I want???

Have you checked out Dyno 2000? It's not shareware, but ~$40 seems
reasonable enough... :-)

http:www.motionsoftware.com

--
Guy Hammer, guyh@teleport.com
http://www.teleport.com/~guyh
--
  5:55am  up 71 days, 14:42,  6 users,  load average: 1.04, 1.01, 1.00
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This list still alive???

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  2 09:56:12 2001
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From: "Ade + Lamb Chop" <adrian.law@btinternet.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 17:54:10 -0000
Subject: Re: [OT] Boom boom sound
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On 2 Jan 2001, at 13:14, Jeroen Proveniers wrote:

> Hai,
> 
> Some cars have that typical boom boom sound in the exhaust when the
> throttle is released (Alfa Romeo 33 for example); I really like this
> sound. I do not know the cause of it, but I want my car to have it. Is
> there anything I could make? It's a Ford Sierra with injected 2 litre
> engine, completely orginal.

I have only ever had it from an excessive dia exhaust. 2" ID on a 
55bhp 1000cc A series for instance. It may be a nice noise but 
excessive dia of the exhaust means you loose gas speed (and 
thus gas momentum) which reduces scavenging at the end of the  
exhaust stroke.

Ade

ICQ. 75653589
www.adesite.co.uk
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  2 11:10:48 2001
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From: "Phil Martin" <phil@muts.freeserve.co.uk>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: wierd o2
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 18:02:24 -0000
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------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C074E6.2900EB00
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Does anyone know any information about the o2 sensors used in late BMW's =
they give an output signal of 0-5v no the usual 0-1v.=20

Thanks=20

Phillip Martin

------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C074E6.2900EB00
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Does anyone know any information about =
the o2=20
sensors used in late BMW's they give an output signal of 0-5v no the =
usual 0-1v.=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Phillip =
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  2 12:26:34 2001
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Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 15:26:28 -0500
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From: "Peter D. Hipson" <mail@darkstar.mv.com>
Subject: Re: [OT] Boom boom sound
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Run rich, (idle mixture) and low back pressure exhaust system, and you 
should get some good popping! I get it all the time on my Isuzu plow truck, 
under those exact conditions, and have done it with other engines, too.

At 05:54 PM 1/2/2001 +0000, you wrote:
>On 2 Jan 2001, at 13:14, Jeroen Proveniers wrote:
>
> > Hai,
> >
> > Some cars have that typical boom boom sound in the exhaust when the
> > throttle is released (Alfa Romeo 33 for example); I really like this
> > sound. I do not know the cause of it, but I want my car to have it. Is
> > there anything I could make? It's a Ford Sierra with injected 2 litre
> > engine, completely orginal.
>
>I have only ever had it from an excessive dia exhaust. 2" ID on a
>55bhp 1000cc A series for instance. It may be a nice noise but
>excessive dia of the exhaust means you loose gas speed (and
>thus gas momentum) which reduces scavenging at the end of the
>exhaust stroke.
>
>Ade
>
>ICQ. 75653589
>www.adesite.co.uk
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  2 13:10:48 2001
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From: Eric Bryant <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: [OT] Boom boom sound
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 16:10:39 -0500 
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> From: Peter D. Hipson [mailto:mail@darkstar.mv.com]
> Subject: Re: [OT] Boom boom sound
> 
> 
> Run rich, (idle mixture) and low back pressure exhaust 
> system, and you 
> should get some good popping! I get it all the time on my 
> Isuzu plow truck, 
> under those exact conditions, and have done it with other 
> engines, too.

My motorcycles will do this, and so will my Impala SS.  The bikes have
aftermarket exhaust systems with rather free-flowing baffles; the SS has
straight pipes from the cats back.  None of them did this with stock exhaust
systems, so a good "free-flowing" (read: loud) muffler setup is recommended.
I don't doubt that the bikes run rich on the overrun, but I kinda doubt that
the SS is dumping a whole lot of fuel in the exhaust (seeing that it's still
running near-stock PCM tuning, where as the bikes have been jetting into a
non-EPA-compliant state).

Eric Bryant
mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
http://www.novagate.com/~bryante 

  

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  2 16:04:18 2001
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From: dennis <spoolboy@autospeed.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: engine simulators
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--- Stephen Burgess <msburgess@conestoga.net>
> wrote:
>who's got what to say about any of them.....
>
>I'm looking for a reasonable priced software package that would simulate 2, 3,
>4, 5 valves, long plenum, short plenum, different exhaust, etc
>
>basically I want the most versitile set-up but don't want to pay thousands...any
>chance there's a shareware package out there somewhere that would come close to
>what I want???

I just bought DesktopDyno2000. I'm not very pleased with it.

I'd recommend one of the various versions of "Engine Analyzer" from www.auto-ware.com

DesktopDyno2000 doesn't allow any real variables for manifold dimensions. You only get to pick, single plane, dual plane, IR, EFI, tunnel ram, or "forced induction". There are other things I don't like about it too.

Dennis

_____________________________________________________________
AutoSpeed - The World's Best High Performance Online Magazine
http://www.autospeed.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  2 20:14:13 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: engine simulators
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I had used the old desktop dyno, & did not much like the presentation, nor
the limited choices that i had.  it was pretty accurate, when i finally got
the car to the track & calculated HP from times.  more than anything i
wanted to know if the change i made was going to go up or down in the HP &
what the torque curve was going to look like.  I think that this is the
real benefit to this type of program.  

i give it 3 1/2 stars.

BW


> [Original Message]
> From: dennis <spoolboy@autospeed.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Date: 1/2/01 4:06:03 PM
> Subject: Re: engine simulators
>
> 
> 
> --- Stephen Burgess <msburgess@conestoga.net>
> > wrote:
> >who's got what to say about any of them.....
> >
> >I'm looking for a reasonable priced software package that would simulate
2, 3,
> >4, 5 valves, long plenum, short plenum, different exhaust, etc
> >
> >basically I want the most versitile set-up but don't want to pay
thousands...any
> >chance there's a shareware package out there somewhere that would come
close to
> >what I want???
> 
> I just bought DesktopDyno2000. I'm not very pleased with it.
> 
> I'd recommend one of the various versions of "Engine Analyzer" from
www.auto-ware.com
> 
> DesktopDyno2000 doesn't allow any real variables for manifold dimensions.
You only get to pick, single plane, dual plane, IR, EFI, tunnel ram, or
"forced induction". There are other things I don't like about it too.
> 
> Dennis
> 
> _____________________________________________________________
> AutoSpeed - The World's Best High Performance Online Magazine
> http://www.autospeed.com
>
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> 



--- Bob Wooten
--- r71chevy@earthlink.net
--- 71-91 RS Camaro
--- Never mind LT1, this is LT100


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  2 20:40:54 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: wierd o2
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 20:44:2 -0800
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This sounds like the Titanium O2 sensor.  They were used in Toyota (trucks)
for a short period of time & some Chrysler products.  the one that i bought
was from a 4.0L Jeep, don't recall the year but you will know it when you
see the price.  the standard 1 wire around here is $40, this one is $80. 
If you want more information, I might be able to come up with it.  some of
the Chrysler applications used an inverse reading (higher voltage, leaner
exh).  this device is a variable resistance device & the advantage is that
there is not an external O2 reference.  this way when you take your truck
through a mud puddle you don't fill up the reference & freak out the O2
sensor.

I think that when i first got onto this mailing list there was some
discussion about this, so there might be more information in the archives.


BW


> [Original Message]
> From: Phil Martin <phil@muts.freeserve.co.uk>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Date: 1/2/01 11:13:55 AM
> Subject: wierd o2
>
> Does anyone know any information about the o2 sensors used in late BMW's
they give an output signal of 0-5v no the usual 0-1v. 
> 
> Thanks 
> 
> Phillip Martin
> 



--- Bob Wooten
--- r71chevy@earthlink.net
--- 71-91 RS Camaro
--- Never mind LT1, this is LT100


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  2 21:59:50 2001
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Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 00:59:08 EST
Subject: Re: Fw: Pop Off Valve
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I had a turbo from a 2 liter japanese gasoline truck engine that did 
have an electronically operated valve at the compressor outlet, 
that, when open, vented the air back to the compressor inlet. 
 It was a mitsu turbo, so i was curious if they did that with the 
DSM car stuff.  It does not sound like they did.
Thanks,
Mike V

In a message dated 1/2/01 9:06:48 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
vlkslvr@hotmail.com writes:

>  Let's make sure that we have our terminology straight here, I might 
>  confused, by pop off valve, I take that to mean a blow off valve of B.O.V, 
>  the purpose of the B.O.V. to vent positive intake pressure when the 
throttle 
> 
>  plate is closed (normall during a shif), this eliminates the pressure wave 
>  from damaging the turbo. By asking if this B.O.V is part of the compressor 
>  housing it almost sounds like you are asking if this is a wastegate used 
to 
>  limit boost levels.
>  
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  2 22:03:57 2001
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From: "Chris Capowski" <c.capowski@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <4120011226557370@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Way to measure HP?
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 01:06:20 -0500
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Another route to measure torque, and consequently HP would be to simply use
a strain gauge on the driveshaft(s) if you know what the shaft is made of.
You can almost take a direct torque measuement.  No correction factors
required here.

Chris "Mighty Mouse" Capowski

Sometimes us Mech's take a different approach.


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  2 22:08:26 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Fw: Pop Off Valve
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 22:11:22 -0800
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vortech uses one on the LS1 kit that they have for the F bodies, that does
not have any wires or vacuum lines going to it. it looks just like some
that i have seen on turbo applications, but vortech is porting the gas back
to the intput to the blower, don't know why though.  i cant imagine that
they are that cheap though.

BW


> [Original Message]
> From: <ECMnut@aol.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Date: 1/2/01 10:02:59 PM
> Subject: Re: Fw: Pop Off Valve
>
> I had a turbo from a 2 liter japanese gasoline truck engine that did 
> have an electronically operated valve at the compressor outlet, 
> that, when open, vented the air back to the compressor inlet. 
>  It was a mitsu turbo, so i was curious if they did that with the 
> DSM car stuff.  It does not sound like they did.
> Thanks,
> Mike V
> 
> In a message dated 1/2/01 9:06:48 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
> vlkslvr@hotmail.com writes:
> 
> >  Let's make sure that we have our terminology straight here, I might 
> >  confused, by pop off valve, I take that to mean a blow off valve of
B.O.V, 
> >  the purpose of the B.O.V. to vent positive intake pressure when the 
> throttle 
> > 
> >  plate is closed (normall during a shif), this eliminates the pressure
wave 
> >  from damaging the turbo. By asking if this B.O.V is part of the
compressor 
> >  housing it almost sounds like you are asking if this is a wastegate
used 
> to 
> >  limit boost levels.
> >  
>
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> 



--- Bob Wooten
--- r71chevy@earthlink.net
--- 71-91 RS Camaro
--- Never mind LT1, this is LT100


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan  3 04:04:22 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Fw: Pop Off Valve
Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 07:03:37 -0500
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The purpose of routing the air back to the inlet is too fold, depending on 
what type of EFI is on board. This first benifit is that it keeps the turbo 
spooled up between shifts and secondly if the car is MAF equipped then this 
is required to keep the car from going extremely rich/bucking during shifts
Justin


>From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>Subject: Re: Fw: Pop Off Valve
>Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 22:11:22 -0800
>
>vortech uses one on the LS1 kit that they have for the F bodies, that does
>not have any wires or vacuum lines going to it. it looks just like some
>that i have seen on turbo applications, but vortech is porting the gas back
>to the intput to the blower, don't know why though.  i cant imagine that
>they are that cheap though.
>
>BW
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: <ECMnut@aol.com>
> > To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> > Date: 1/2/01 10:02:59 PM
> > Subject: Re: Fw: Pop Off Valve
> >
> > I had a turbo from a 2 liter japanese gasoline truck engine that did
> > have an electronically operated valve at the compressor outlet,
> > that, when open, vented the air back to the compressor inlet.
> >  It was a mitsu turbo, so i was curious if they did that with the
> > DSM car stuff.  It does not sound like they did.
> > Thanks,
> > Mike V
> >
> > In a message dated 1/2/01 9:06:48 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> > vlkslvr@hotmail.com writes:
> >
> > >  Let's make sure that we have our terminology straight here, I might
> > >  confused, by pop off valve, I take that to mean a blow off valve of
>B.O.V,
> > >  the purpose of the B.O.V. to vent positive intake pressure when the
> > throttle
> > >
> > >  plate is closed (normall during a shif), this eliminates the pressure
>wave
> > >  from damaging the turbo. By asking if this B.O.V is part of the
>compressor
> > >  housing it almost sounds like you are asking if this is a wastegate
>used
> > to
> > >  limit boost levels.
> > >
> >
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to 
>majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
>
>
>
>--- Bob Wooten
>--- r71chevy@earthlink.net
>--- 71-91 RS Camaro
>--- Never mind LT1, this is LT100
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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_________________________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan  3 05:03:35 2001
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Subject: MAF transfer curves
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Different transfer curves for MAFs?
Is this true?? I was led to believe that voltage output was linear
with respect to airflow for all makes. The only difference being
the sizes and connectors used. I don't mean to question Chris but
This would have some serious implications for my flapper-conversion
project so I'm very curious.
Thanks,
Rod





>Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 00:36:47 -0500
>From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
>Subject: MAF transfer curves

>I was wondering a bit about MAF transfer curves.

>I seem to remember people mentioning that some MAFs (GM perhaps)
>had a voltage output that was linear with respect to airflow.

>In the archives I found that someone else, using a Bosch MAF,
>found that airflow varied as the square of voltage. (Or, voltage
>output varied as the square root of airflow.)

>Looking at the curve for a random Pro-flow MAF
><http://www.pro-flow.com/24flow.htm>
>it appears that airflow varies as the cube of the voltage. (If you
>plot V vs the cube root of airflow, you get a straight line.) As
>near as I can tell these units are intended for Ford applications.

>I wonder what other transfer curves are out there? Are there any
>logarithmic MAFs?

   Chris C.





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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan  3 05:18:40 2001
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Hi

My VW has a 2' exhaust and it has never backfired. Some time ago the exhaust-manifold couldn't take the rust anymore and it blew a little hole in itself. Since then the car obviously sounds like an old Nimbus motorcycle and when I lift the throttle the car backfires. - and the only thing that has changed is the tiny hole in the exhaust. So I think it is simply a matter of getting oxygen into the exhaust so that the left over fumes from the combustion can be ignited!

If you want to go wild I have seen engines with another pair of sparkplugs in the exhaustmanifold - at idle the engine actually spewed flames out of the exhaust. Ofcourse this also needs some serious enrichening of the gasoline/air mixture ;-)

Morten

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Brian (turbot@swbell.net) tried that locally here ($70 part) and it DOES work for boost when throttle shuts but as mentioned the part throttle was just nasty.

The "cap" is crimped on so disassembly was not an option and I was unable to install a helper spring... he crushed it and that helped some but wasnt good enough.

Sounded cool though.  Gotta go!

Shawn

______________________________________________________
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 06:57:35 -0500
From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: Pop Off Valve

First gen diamond star turbo cars have an effective inexpensive pop off
valve. It's metal compared to the chaper BOSCH plastic ones. Some of the 12
sec ecplipses use them with good results


>From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
>Subject: Fw: Pop Off Valve
>Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 01:33:19 -0500
>
>  Anyone have any links, ideas, part no.s for a cheap effective pop off
>valve?.
>  Electric or vac/boost operated considered.
>Instant acting 2" valve would be nice but for a 231 at 25 PSI what *sounds*
>right?.
>TIA
>Bruce

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan  3 06:29:13 2001
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That's the way Land and Sea Dynos does their on car dyno system. The strain
gauges  are in a drum on the drive shaft by the rear end. The strain gauges
are inductively coupled to fixed coils on a bracket on the rear end.  


> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Chris Capowski [SMTP:c.capowski@home.com]
> Sent:	Wednesday, January 03, 2001 12:06 AM
> To:	diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject:	Re: Way to measure HP?
> 
> Another route to measure torque, and consequently HP would be to simply
> use
> a strain gauge on the driveshaft(s) if you know what the shaft is made of.
> You can almost take a direct torque measuement.  No correction factors
> required here.
> 
> Chris "Mighty Mouse" Capowski
> 
> Sometimes us Mech's take a different approach.
> 
> 
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <852569C9.00473228.00@keybank.com>
Subject: Re: MAF transfer curves
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 09:55:09 -0500
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Some are even frequency.
I wouldn't say anything universaily applies about MAFs
Bruce



> Different transfer curves for MAFs?
> Is this true?? I was led to believe that voltage output was linear
> with respect to airflow for all makes. The only difference being
> the sizes and connectors used. I don't mean to question Chris but
> This would have some serious implications for my flapper-conversion
> project so I'm very curious.
> Thanks,
> Rod
>
>
>
>
>
> >Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 00:36:47 -0500
> >From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
> >Subject: MAF transfer curves
>
> >I was wondering a bit about MAF transfer curves.
>
> >I seem to remember people mentioning that some MAFs (GM perhaps)
> >had a voltage output that was linear with respect to airflow.
>
> >In the archives I found that someone else, using a Bosch MAF,
> >found that airflow varied as the square of voltage. (Or, voltage
> >output varied as the square root of airflow.)
>
> >Looking at the curve for a random Pro-flow MAF
> ><http://www.pro-flow.com/24flow.htm>
> >it appears that airflow varies as the cube of the voltage. (If you
> >plot V vs the cube root of airflow, you get a straight line.) As
> >near as I can tell these units are intended for Ford applications.
>
> >I wonder what other transfer curves are out there? Are there any
> >logarithmic MAFs?
>
>    Chris C.
>
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: MAF transfer curves
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 10:09:34 -0500 
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At least on the Ford MAF's I had transfer functions for, 
they were all linear voltage 0-5V with a little rolloff on 
both ends.  These were Hitachi parts.

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 9:55 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: MAF transfer curves



Some are even frequency.
I wouldn't say anything universaily applies about MAFs
Bruce



> Different transfer curves for MAFs?
> Is this true?? I was led to believe that voltage output was linear
> with respect to airflow for all makes. The only difference being
> the sizes and connectors used. I don't mean to question Chris but
> This would have some serious implications for my flapper-conversion
> project so I'm very curious.
> Thanks,
> Rod
>
>
>
>
>
> >Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 00:36:47 -0500
> >From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
> >Subject: MAF transfer curves
>
> >I was wondering a bit about MAF transfer curves.
>
> >I seem to remember people mentioning that some MAFs (GM perhaps)
> >had a voltage output that was linear with respect to airflow.
>
> >In the archives I found that someone else, using a Bosch MAF,
> >found that airflow varied as the square of voltage. (Or, voltage
> >output varied as the square root of airflow.)
>
> >Looking at the curve for a random Pro-flow MAF
> ><http://www.pro-flow.com/24flow.htm>
> >it appears that airflow varies as the cube of the voltage. (If you
> >plot V vs the cube root of airflow, you get a straight line.) As
> >near as I can tell these units are intended for Ford applications.
>
> >I wonder what other transfer curves are out there? Are there any
> >logarithmic MAFs?
>
>    Chris C.
>
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan  3 07:21:01 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Fw: Pop Off Valve
Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 10:20:24 -0500
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I don't remember reading about the part throttle issues, could you reiterate 
(offline if necessary) I have one on my turbo car without any issues. I have 
run up to 15lbs of boost with no apparent issue and the cool woosh sound 
during shifts as you mentioned
Justin


>From: shawn <gnandgs@feist.com>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>Subject: Re: Fw: Pop Off Valve
>Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 08:10:08 -0600
>
>Brian (turbot@swbell.net) tried that locally here ($70 part) and it DOES 
>work for boost when throttle shuts but as mentioned the part throttle was 
>just nasty.
>
>The "cap" is crimped on so disassembly was not an option and I was unable 
>to install a helper spring... he crushed it and that helped some but wasnt 
>good enough.
>
>Sounded cool though.  Gotta go!
>
>Shawn
>
>______________________________________________________
>Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 06:57:35 -0500
>From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: Fw: Pop Off Valve
>
>First gen diamond star turbo cars have an effective inexpensive pop off
>valve. It's metal compared to the chaper BOSCH plastic ones. Some of the 12
>sec ecplipses use them with good results
>
>
> >From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
> >Subject: Fw: Pop Off Valve
> >Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 01:33:19 -0500
> >
> >  Anyone have any links, ideas, part no.s for a cheap effective pop off
> >valve?.
> >  Electric or vac/boost operated considered.
> >Instant acting 2" valve would be nice but for a 231 at 25 PSI what 
>*sounds*
> >right?.
> >TIA
> >Bruce
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan  3 07:57:32 2001
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From: "Andy Laurence" <rodneyfunnie@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: [OT] Boom boom sound
Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 15:56:56 -0000
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> > Some cars have that typical boom boom sound in the exhaust when the
> > throttle is released (Alfa Romeo 33 for example); I really like this
> > sound. I do not know the cause of it, but I want my car to have it. Is
> > there anything I could make? It's a Ford Sierra with injected 2 litre
> > engine, completely orginal.
>
>I have only ever had it from an excessive dia exhaust. 2" ID on a
>55bhp 1000cc A series for instance. It may be a nice noise but
>excessive dia of the exhaust means you loose gas speed (and
>thus gas momentum) which reduces scavenging at the end of the
>exhaust stroke.

I can say I had precisely the same experience at the age of 17 going mad 
with exhausts on a 39bhp Mini ;-)

Andy

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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Fw: Pop Off Valve
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 10:21:43 -0800
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I would have guessed about keeping the turbo spooled up, but this is a
Vortech blower, not a turbo.  I certainly would not have guessed about the
MAF though.  i was not paying close attn to see if it was SD or MAF, so i
have to assume that it is MAF, mystery solved.  

thanks for the info.

BW


> [Original Message]
> From: justin ivan <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Date: 1/3/01 4:09:51 AM
> Subject: Re: Fw: Pop Off Valve
>
> The purpose of routing the air back to the inlet is too fold, depending
on 
> what type of EFI is on board. This first benifit is that it keeps the
turbo 
> spooled up between shifts and secondly if the car is MAF equipped then
this 
> is required to keep the car from going extremely rich/bucking during
shifts
> Justin
> 
> 
> >From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
> >Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> >To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> >Subject: Re: Fw: Pop Off Valve
> >Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 22:11:22 -0800
> >
> >vortech uses one on the LS1 kit that they have for the F bodies, that
does
> >not have any wires or vacuum lines going to it. it looks just like some
> >that i have seen on turbo applications, but vortech is porting the gas
back
> >to the intput to the blower, don't know why though.  i cant imagine that
> >they are that cheap though.
> >
> >BW
> >
> >
> > > [Original Message]
> > > From: <ECMnut@aol.com>
> > > To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> > > Date: 1/2/01 10:02:59 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Fw: Pop Off Valve
> > >
> > > I had a turbo from a 2 liter japanese gasoline truck engine that did
> > > have an electronically operated valve at the compressor outlet,
> > > that, when open, vented the air back to the compressor inlet.
> > >  It was a mitsu turbo, so i was curious if they did that with the
> > > DSM car stuff.  It does not sound like they did.
> > > Thanks,
> > > Mike V
> > >
> > > In a message dated 1/2/01 9:06:48 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> > > vlkslvr@hotmail.com writes:
> > >
> > > >  Let's make sure that we have our terminology straight here, I might
> > > >  confused, by pop off valve, I take that to mean a blow off valve of
> >B.O.V,
> > > >  the purpose of the B.O.V. to vent positive intake pressure when the
> > > throttle
> > > >
> > > >  plate is closed (normall during a shif), this eliminates the
pressure
> >wave
> > > >  from damaging the turbo. By asking if this B.O.V is part of the
> >compressor
> > > >  housing it almost sounds like you are asking if this is a wastegate
> >used
> > > to
> > > >  limit boost levels.
> > > >
> > >
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> > > in the body of a message (not the subject) to 
> >majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >--- Bob Wooten
> >--- r71chevy@earthlink.net
> >--- 71-91 RS Camaro
> >--- Never mind LT1, this is LT100
> >
> >
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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--- Bob Wooten
--- r71chevy@earthlink.net
--- www.r71camaro.homestead.com
--- 71-91 RS Camaro


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From: "Ade + Lamb Chop" <adrian.law@btinternet.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 19:34:12 -0000
Subject: Re: [OT] Boom boom sound
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On 3 Jan 2001, at 14:17, Morten T Nielsen wrote:

> Hi
> 
> My VW has a 2' exhaust and it has never backfired. 

what CC is it? I bet is it a lot more than 1000cc. You will have 
higher gass speed so you are less likely to get air flowing the 
wrong way up the exhaust under certain circumstances.

Ade


ICQ. 75653589
www.adesite.co.uk
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan  3 12:03:57 2001
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Does anyone know of a TPS with a through shaft design?  My particular
application won't allow for the mounting of the tps on the other side of the
throttle shaft.
s. prince

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From: Eric Bryant <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: thru shaft tps
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 15:22:42 -0500 
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> Does anyone know of a TPS with a through shaft design?  My particular
> application won't allow for the mounting of the tps on the 
> other side of the
> throttle shaft.
> s. prince

I know of exactly one - an AB Electronic (Colvern) CP17/700.  CTS doesn't
make a through-shaft TPS, to the best of my knowledge.

Eric Bryant
mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
http://www.novagate.com/~bryante 
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan  3 13:47:47 2001
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Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 16:47:53 -0500
From: Rob O <rjo1@home.com>
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Subject: Re: Fw: Pop Off Valve
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Lemme guess... MAF equipped car, BOV vented to atmosphere and the top
hose on the BOV getting its source from the intake manifold

At part throttle pressure upstream of the throttle body will be higher
than after the TB. This will cause the BOV to remain slightly open
venting "metered" air and the car will run pig rich. 

Sound familiar or am I way off base here?

Rob_O

shawn wrote:
> 
> Brian (turbot@swbell.net) tried that locally here ($70 part) and it DOES work for boost when throttle shuts but as mentioned the part throttle was just nasty.
> 
> The "cap" is crimped on so disassembly was not an option and I was unable to install a helper spring... he crushed it and that helped some but wasnt good enough.
> 
> Sounded cool though.  Gotta go!
> 
> Shawn
> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 06:57:35 -0500
> From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Fw: Pop Off Valve
> 
> First gen diamond star turbo cars have an effective inexpensive pop off
> valve. It's metal compared to the chaper BOSCH plastic ones. Some of the 12
> sec ecplipses use them with good results
> 
> >From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
> >Subject: Fw: Pop Off Valve
> >Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 01:33:19 -0500
> >
> >  Anyone have any links, ideas, part no.s for a cheap effective pop off
> >valve?.
> >  Electric or vac/boost operated considered.
> >Instant acting 2" valve would be nice but for a 231 at 25 PSI what *sounds*
> >right?.
> >TIA
> >Bruce
> 
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan  3 14:01:21 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: thru shaft tps
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 14:4:38 -0800
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The 302 in my Ford truck (w/EEC4) has one that was not really through, but
you could make it that way.  It had a hole in the middle that a splined
shaft stuck into.  89, F150, 302, auto, w/EEC4.  I think that they are
probably "all the same" on the standard SBF motors.  

Bob Wooten



> [Original Message]
> From: Stewart Prince <sprince@csun.edu>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Date: 1/3/01 12:07:07 PM
> Subject: thru shaft tps
>
> Does anyone know of a TPS with a through shaft design?  My particular
> application won't allow for the mounting of the tps on the other side of
the
> throttle shaft.
> s. prince
> 
>
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--- Bob Wooten
--- r71chevy@earthlink.net
--- www.r71camaro.homestead.com
--- 71-91 RS Camaro


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan  3 16:02:50 2001
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On Wed, 3 Jan 2001, Stewart Prince wrote:

> Does anyone know of a TPS with a through shaft design?  My particular
> application won't allow for the mounting of the tps on the other side of the
> throttle shaft.
> s. prince

Hi, don't know if this counts but the tps on my '87 5.0 mustang has a dust
cover that pops off making it a candidate for modification?

Andrew....

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan  3 17:07:30 2001
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Early Ford CFI used a through TPS with a roll pin to "grab" the
centre. Mustang, Crown Vic, etc...

Lyndon.
----- Original Message -----
From: Eric Bryant <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 1:22 PM
Subject: RE: thru shaft tps


> > Does anyone know of a TPS with a through shaft design?  My particular
> > application won't allow for the mounting of the tps on the
> > other side of the
> > throttle shaft.
> > s. prince
>
> I know of exactly one - an AB Electronic (Colvern) CP17/700.  CTS doesn't
> make a through-shaft TPS, to the best of my knowledge.
>
> Eric Bryant
> mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
> http://www.novagate.com/~bryante
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan  3 19:06:03 2001
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Anyone got charts for the KV flowmeters used on the Talon/Eclipse/Laser?
I'd like to use something like the pro-flo 75MM bullet but need to do a
voltage/frequency convertor and have no clue as to where to start on the
conversion tables

Rob_O

"Shirley, Mark R" wrote:
> 
> At least on the Ford MAF's I had transfer functions for,
> they were all linear voltage 0-5V with a little rolloff on
> both ends.  These were Hitachi parts.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 9:55 AM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: MAF transfer curves
> 
> Some are even frequency.
> I wouldn't say anything universaily applies about MAFs
> Bruce
> 
> > Different transfer curves for MAFs?
> > Is this true?? I was led to believe that voltage output was linear
> > with respect to airflow for all makes. The only difference being
> > the sizes and connectors used. I don't mean to question Chris but
> > This would have some serious implications for my flapper-conversion
> > project so I'm very curious.
> > Thanks,
> > Rod
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 00:36:47 -0500
> > >From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
> > >Subject: MAF transfer curves
> >
> > >I was wondering a bit about MAF transfer curves.
> >
> > >I seem to remember people mentioning that some MAFs (GM perhaps)
> > >had a voltage output that was linear with respect to airflow.
> >
> > >In the archives I found that someone else, using a Bosch MAF,
> > >found that airflow varied as the square of voltage. (Or, voltage
> > >output varied as the square root of airflow.)
> >
> > >Looking at the curve for a random Pro-flow MAF
> > ><http://www.pro-flow.com/24flow.htm>
> > >it appears that airflow varies as the cube of the voltage. (If you
> > >plot V vs the cube root of airflow, you get a straight line.) As
> > >near as I can tell these units are intended for Ford applications.
> >
> > >I wonder what other transfer curves are out there? Are there any
> > >logarithmic MAFs?
> >
> >    Chris C.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> >
> 
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan  4 06:16:50 2001
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From: "Mike Swayze" <mswayze@truswood.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE:THRU SHAFT TPS RE: DIY-EFI DIGEST V5 #432
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 09:15:54 -0500
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http://www.jimsperformance.com/

There is one here called a mini tps, that I used on my TB (about 39.00 new)
There is a picture of it on the TB on DIY_EFI incoming under 77cadtb.zip

jpg1 shows it assembled.


Swayze
mswayze@truswood.com
kswayze@bellsouth.net


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From: "Tom" <Le_Tette@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #432
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Newer Ford MAF's are not even close to being linear.. or easily modelled by
a single multi-ordered equation.

You can get an approximation of yours by using one of the Data Loggers
available for your DSM. (1g I assume since the 2g maf is good for 40 lb/min
or are you building a 10 sec car?) With an unmolested air meter, log the air
mass and compare that to the frequency of the meter. You can either use a
multimeter, S-AFC, MASC, or other gizmo to get the raw maf frequency signal.

Regarding the other thread.. There is no reason to vent the BOV to the
atmosphere. Don't be a riceboy.

-tom

> Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 22:06:07 -0500
> From: Rob O <rjo1@home.com>
> Subject: Re: MAF transfer curves
>
> Anyone got charts for the KV flowmeters used on the Talon/Eclipse/Laser?
> I'd like to use something like the pro-flo 75MM bullet but need to do a
> voltage/frequency convertor and have no clue as to where to start on the
> conversion tables
>
> Rob_O
>
> "Shirley, Mark R" wrote:
> >
> > At least on the Ford MAF's I had transfer functions for,
> > they were all linear voltage 0-5V with a little rolloff on
> > both ends.  These were Hitachi parts.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 9:55 AM
> > To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > Subject: Re: MAF transfer curves
> >
> > Some are even frequency.
> > I wouldn't say anything universaily applies about MAFs
> > Bruce
> >
> > > Different transfer curves for MAFs?
> > > Is this true?? I was led to believe that voltage output was linear
> > > with respect to airflow for all makes. The only difference being
> > > the sizes and connectors used. I don't mean to question Chris but
> > > This would have some serious implications for my flapper-conversion
> > > project so I'm very curious.
> > > Thanks,
> > > Rod
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > >Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 00:36:47 -0500
> > > >From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
> > > >Subject: MAF transfer curves
> > >
> > > >I was wondering a bit about MAF transfer curves.
> > >
> > > >I seem to remember people mentioning that some MAFs (GM perhaps)
> > > >had a voltage output that was linear with respect to airflow.
> > >
> > > >In the archives I found that someone else, using a Bosch MAF,
> > > >found that airflow varied as the square of voltage. (Or, voltage
> > > >output varied as the square root of airflow.)
> > >
> > > >Looking at the curve for a random Pro-flow MAF
> > > ><http://www.pro-flow.com/24flow.htm>
> > > >it appears that airflow varies as the cube of the voltage. (If you
> > > >plot V vs the cube root of airflow, you get a straight line.) As
> > > >near as I can tell these units are intended for Ford applications.
> > >
> > > >I wonder what other transfer curves are out there? Are there any
> > > >logarithmic MAFs?
> > >
> > >    Chris C.

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan  4 06:39:58 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: MAF transfer curves
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 09:39:39 -0500 
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If you know somebody with a flow bench, you could get the data by empirical
means.

-----Original Message-----
From: Rob O [mailto:rjo1@home.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 10:06 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: MAF transfer curves


Anyone got charts for the KV flowmeters used on the Talon/Eclipse/Laser?
I'd like to use something like the pro-flo 75MM bullet but need to do a
voltage/frequency convertor and have no clue as to where to start on the
conversion tables

Rob_O

"Shirley, Mark R" wrote:
> 
> At least on the Ford MAF's I had transfer functions for,
> they were all linear voltage 0-5V with a little rolloff on
> both ends.  These were Hitachi parts.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 9:55 AM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: MAF transfer curves
> 
> Some are even frequency.
> I wouldn't say anything universaily applies about MAFs
> Bruce
> 
> > Different transfer curves for MAFs?
> > Is this true?? I was led to believe that voltage output was linear
> > with respect to airflow for all makes. The only difference being
> > the sizes and connectors used. I don't mean to question Chris but
> > This would have some serious implications for my flapper-conversion
> > project so I'm very curious.
> > Thanks,
> > Rod
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 00:36:47 -0500
> > >From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
> > >Subject: MAF transfer curves
> >
> > >I was wondering a bit about MAF transfer curves.
> >
> > >I seem to remember people mentioning that some MAFs (GM perhaps)
> > >had a voltage output that was linear with respect to airflow.
> >
> > >In the archives I found that someone else, using a Bosch MAF,
> > >found that airflow varied as the square of voltage. (Or, voltage
> > >output varied as the square root of airflow.)
> >
> > >Looking at the curve for a random Pro-flow MAF
> > ><http://www.pro-flow.com/24flow.htm>
> > >it appears that airflow varies as the cube of the voltage. (If you
> > >plot V vs the cube root of airflow, you get a straight line.) As
> > >near as I can tell these units are intended for Ford applications.
> >
> > >I wonder what other transfer curves are out there? Are there any
> > >logarithmic MAFs?
> >
> >    Chris C.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> >
> 
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan  4 06:58:33 2001
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From: Josh Criswold <g_force_alt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Dictionary of basic circuits?
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Is there a book, or series of books, which is a
relatively comprehensive compilation of basic
circuits?  I need something that has stuff like a
simple amplifier circuits, and more complicated stuff
like frequency to voltage converter circuits.  I know
there's got to be an easier way than figuring one out
every time you have to do it.

Thanks
Josh

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan  4 07:12:54 2001
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Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 10:16:59 -0500
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From: Bruce Murray <bmurray@bbn.com>
Subject: Re: [OT] Boom boom sound
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My dad many years ago showed me how to make excellent boom boom sounds.

It only works on carburetted cars so is really a bit off topic but fun anyway.

When cruising along, switch off the ignition, floor the gas pedal, and then
turn on the ignition and listen.

The unburnt gas sitting in the exhaust will ignite with a mighty explosion,
if done right (or wrongly) you can blow the exhaust apart. Ask me how I know!

I suppose with an EFI system you could provide an override current to the
injectors and vary its pulse length to achieve the desired acoustic effect.

Bruce Murray


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan  4 07:31:34 2001
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From: Eric Bryant <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: THRU SHAFT TPS RE: DIY-EFI DIGEST V5 #432
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 10:30:58 -0500 
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> From: Mike Swayze [mailto:mswayze@truswood.com]
> Subject: RE:THRU SHAFT TPS RE: DIY-EFI DIGEST V5 #432
> 
> 
> http://www.jimsperformance.com/
> 
> There is one here called a mini tps, that I used on my TB 
> (about 39.00 new)
> There is a picture of it on the TB on DIY_EFI incoming under 
> 77cadtb.zip

Looks a lot like the AB/Colvern unit - thanks for the info.

Eric Bryant
mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
http://www.novagate.com/~bryante 
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan  4 07:39:01 2001
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Subject: Re: MAF GM flavor
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The late 80's MAF sensors that come on Camaros and vettes have a parabolic 
function, even though all the info I've read from GM says it is linear.  
Bastards!
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan  4 08:41:58 2001
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Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 10:36:32 -0600
From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
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There is a series called "Encyclopedia of electronic circuits" that is
good.  It's basically a collection of circuits from manufacturers data
sheets.  It's hardbound, almost 800 pages, 100 chapters.  Published by
TAB books, ISBN 0-8306-0938-5, editor Rudolf F Graf.  It's a 3 or 4
volume set, I think each new edition builds on the previous one.  I have
the first 3 and there's a lot of overlap.  Some errors also but a good
place for ideas.

--steve

Josh Criswold wrote:
> 
> Is there a book, or series of books, which is a
> relatively comprehensive compilation of basic
> circuits?  I need something that has stuff like a
> simple amplifier circuits, and more complicated stuff
> like frequency to voltage converter circuits.  I know
> there's got to be an easier way than figuring one out
> every time you have to do it.
> 
> Thanks
> Josh
> 
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
> http://photos.yahoo.com/
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-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan  4 08:51:55 2001
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From: "J. Creech" <jcreech1@olemac.net>
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References: <200101040900.BAA31768@hektor.valesh.com> <OE23BfAq5JAqeufpWcm00005c01@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #432
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 03:52:46 -0600
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One drawback to the dataloggers that run off the ECU tho' (Technomotive),
they only "count" the freq. up to 1606Hz. I don't know why, something to do
with the OBD I software.

Scott Creech


----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom" <Le_Tette@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #432


> Newer Ford MAF's are not even close to being linear.. or easily modelled
by
> a single multi-ordered equation.
>
> You can get an approximation of yours by using one of the Data Loggers
> available for your DSM. (1g I assume since the 2g maf is good for 40
lb/min
> or are you building a 10 sec car?) With an unmolested air meter, log the
air
> mass and compare that to the frequency of the meter. You can either use a
> multimeter, S-AFC, MASC, or other gizmo to get the raw maf frequency
signal.
>
> Regarding the other thread.. There is no reason to vent the BOV to the
> atmosphere. Don't be a riceboy.
>
> -tom


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan  4 08:58:17 2001
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From: "J. Creech" <jcreech1@olemac.net>
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References: <20010104145827.23210.qmail@web1003.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Dictionary of basic circuits?
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It may be beneath you, but have you looked at the "Engineers Notebooks" from
Radio shack? They're only like $2 each, and there's a whole slew of them. I
also just picked up "Building Power Supplys", or something like that, not
sure of the name (the book's at work).

Scott Creech


----- Original Message -----
From: "Josh Criswold" <g_force_alt@yahoo.com>


> Is there a book, or series of books, which is a
> relatively comprehensive compilation of basic
> circuits?  I need something that has stuff like a
> simple amplifier circuits, and more complicated stuff
> like frequency to voltage converter circuits.  I know
> there's got to be an easier way than figuring one out
> every time you have to do it.
>
> Thanks
> Josh


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan  4 09:46:12 2001
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Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 12:50:09 -0500
From: Will McGonegal <McGonegal.Will@etc.ec.gc.ca>
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We have used Ford MAF sensors at our lab for various projects.  We calibrated
them against a Laminar Flow Element (that we paid lot's of money for, and
believe to be very accurate).  The voltage vs. flow output is not linear on the
Ford units we use.  Here is the curve fit for one of the units we calibrated:

Flow (scfm) = 0.6066 - 1.475v + 20.05v^2 - 5.9233v^3 + 1.3292v^4

We calibrate each MAF unit we use.  They have similar curves, but there is some
variability.

I have also heard that the GM units give a frequency output, not voltage.  I
don't recall if it is linear with flow.

Will McGonegal
Electrical Engineer/Dynamometer Developer
Emissions Research and Measurement Division
Environment Canada
Ottawa, Ontario

> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 08:00:58 -0500
> From: Rodney_L_Wiggins@keybank.com
> Subject: MAF transfer curves
> 
> Different transfer curves for MAFs?
> Is this true?? I was led to believe that voltage output was linear
> with respect to airflow for all makes. 
> > ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 10:09:34 -0500
> From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> Subject: RE: MAF transfer curves
> 
> At least on the Ford MAF's I had transfer functions for,
> they were all linear voltage 0-5V with a little rolloff on
> both ends.  These were Hitachi parts.
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Horwitz and Hill: "The art of electronics".  It has basic circuits, and a basic explaination of the theory for most basic circuits.  If you are somewhat experienced with electronics it might be a good book.   Several Universities strongly suggest their Engineering Students that need to deal with electronics (EE,ME mostly) having this book.   I have it and has reasonable section on everything you mentioned, and I believe parts of A/D and D/A and other basic theory/circuits.  According to amazon it is 1100+ pages and about $70.

			Roger 
 



-----Original Message-----
From:	"owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org" <owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org> on behalf of	"Josh Criswold" <g_force_alt@yahoo.com>
Sent:	Thu, 4 Jan 2001 06:58:27 -0800 (PST)
To:	"diy_efi@diy-efi.org" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject:	Dictionary of basic circuits?

Is there a book, or series of books, which is a
relatively comprehensive compilation of basic
circuits?  I need something that has stuff like a
simple amplifier circuits, and more complicated stuff
like frequency to voltage converter circuits.  I know
there's got to be an easier way than figuring one out
every time you have to do it.

Thanks
Josh

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan  4 10:28:01 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: MAF transfer curves
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 13:27:43 -0500 
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Well, either I was looking at older Ford units (probably), or I had a 
brain fart and the scale was logarithmic, and I don't remember.  It's been
a few years.  The curve was definitely straight.


-----Original Message-----
From: Will McGonegal [mailto:McGonegal.Will@etc.ec.gc.ca]
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 12:50 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: MAF transfer curves


We have used Ford MAF sensors at our lab for various projects.  We
calibrated
them against a Laminar Flow Element (that we paid lot's of money for, and
believe to be very accurate).  The voltage vs. flow output is not linear on
the
Ford units we use.  Here is the curve fit for one of the units we
calibrated:

Flow (scfm) = 0.6066 - 1.475v + 20.05v^2 - 5.9233v^3 + 1.3292v^4

We calibrate each MAF unit we use.  They have similar curves, but there is
some
variability.

I have also heard that the GM units give a frequency output, not voltage.  I
don't recall if it is linear with flow.

Will McGonegal
Electrical Engineer/Dynamometer Developer
Emissions Research and Measurement Division
Environment Canada
Ottawa, Ontario

> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 08:00:58 -0500
> From: Rodney_L_Wiggins@keybank.com
> Subject: MAF transfer curves
> 
> Different transfer curves for MAFs?
> Is this true?? I was led to believe that voltage output was linear
> with respect to airflow for all makes. 
> > ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 10:09:34 -0500
> From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> Subject: RE: MAF transfer curves
> 
> At least on the Ford MAF's I had transfer functions for,
> they were all linear voltage 0-5V with a little rolloff on
> both ends.  These were Hitachi parts.
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan  4 10:32:30 2001
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From: Eric Bryant <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Dictionary of basic circuits?
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 13:32:12 -0500 
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> From: steve ravet [mailto:sravet@arm.com]
> Subject: Re: Dictionary of basic circuits?
> 
> 
> There is a series called "Encyclopedia of electronic circuits" that is
> good.  It's basically a collection of circuits from manufacturers data
> sheets.  It's hardbound, almost 800 pages, 100 chapters.  Published by
> TAB books, ISBN 0-8306-0938-5, editor Rudolf F Graf.  It's a 3 or 4
> volume set, I think each new edition builds on the previous 
> one.  I have
> the first 3 and there's a lot of overlap.  Some errors also but a good
> place for ideas.
>

I think there may be up to 6 editions now.

I'd also recommend "The Art of Electronics" by Paul Horowitz and Winfield
Hill.  There's some "good" and "bad" circuits at the end of each chapter
(unfortunately, there's no explaination of why the "bad" circuits are "bad).
It's a damn good book - covers the basics and also offers a fair amount of
detail - and I'd recommend it to anyone interesting in electronics.


Eric Bryant
mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
http://www.novagate.com/~bryante 
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan  4 14:33:07 2001
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From: "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Dictionary of basic circuits?
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 22:30:59 -0000
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I'd recommend H&H too...

Cheers

Rich

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of Eric Bryant
> Sent: 04 January 2001 18:32
> To: 'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'
> Subject: RE: Dictionary of basic circuits?
>
>
> > From: steve ravet [mailto:sravet@arm.com]
> > Subject: Re: Dictionary of basic circuits?
> >
> >
> > There is a series called "Encyclopedia of electronic circuits" that is
> > good.  It's basically a collection of circuits from manufacturers data
> > sheets.  It's hardbound, almost 800 pages, 100 chapters.  Published by
> > TAB books, ISBN 0-8306-0938-5, editor Rudolf F Graf.  It's a 3 or 4
> > volume set, I think each new edition builds on the previous
> > one.  I have
> > the first 3 and there's a lot of overlap.  Some errors also but a good
> > place for ideas.
> >
>
> I think there may be up to 6 editions now.
>
> I'd also recommend "The Art of Electronics" by Paul Horowitz and Winfield
> Hill.  There's some "good" and "bad" circuits at the end of each chapter
> (unfortunately, there's no explaination of why the "bad" circuits
> are "bad).
> It's a damn good book - covers the basics and also offers a fair amount of
> detail - and I'd recommend it to anyone interesting in electronics.
>
>
> Eric Bryant
> mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
> http://www.novagate.com/~bryante
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----------
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without
> the quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan  4 17:50:40 2001
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Message-ID: <10.7092cad.27868239@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 20:49:45 EST
Subject: Problem erasing & re-using GM Proms
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org, gmecm@diy-efi.org
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Have anyone been able to erase a GM prom & reprogram it?
I always have to solder a regular 27xxxx eprom on before I can
re-program..  I can never seem to re-burn the factory original
prom, which doesn't seem to have meaningful identifiers on it.
My latest is a 27256 like thing from a '93 L35 4.3 engine.
Could I be using the wrong programming voltage?
Thanks,
Mike V
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan  4 17:58:00 2001
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <10.7092cad.27868239@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Problem erasing & re-using GM Proms
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 20:59:01 -0500
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> Have anyone been able to erase a GM prom & reprogram it?

Yes.

> I always have to solder a regular 27xxxx eprom on before I can
> re-program..  I can never seem to re-burn the factory original
> prom, which doesn't seem to have meaningful identifiers on it.
> My latest is a 27256 like thing from a '93 L35 4.3 engine.
> Could I be using the wrong programming voltage?

Yes.
Some need to bath in UV 4-6 cycles to wipe clean.
Yes, I've had some never erase.
If PCM might be 512
Bruce

> Thanks,
> Mike V

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From: "CudaBob" <cudabob@workmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 23:32:27 -0800
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Subject: Postscript help?
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Ok, now that I've manual scanning down pat... yea sure, I find 20-
30 pages takeup mucho mb in PhotoShop format, and up to 20mb 
in gif file format... a bit on the large size for email attachments.

What I would like to do is convert these manuals into Postscript 
documents, but have no idea how it is done. I hoped it would be as 
simple as printing to a PS printer file then combining those files 
into a single document file. 

This approach is "Not" working, I sure would appreciate some 
knowledgeable individual pointing me in the right direction.

What I have is a windoz machine, PhotoShop 5.5, Acrobat 4+.

 
CudaBob '65 - Angels Camp, Calif
CudaBob@workmail.com
http://www.goldrush.com/~rhuish/
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan  4 23:47:46 2001
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Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 13:06:28 +0530 (IST)
From: "Ajay A. Vaidya" <aavaidya@me.iitb.ernet.in>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Postscript help?
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Hello!
There is one best web site i came across recently..
	http://wheel.compose.cs.cmu.edu:8001/cgi-bin/browse/objweb
It literaly converts any file into any desired format....
Cheers!

On Thu, 4 Jan 2001, CudaBob wrote:

#What I would like to do is convert these manuals into Postscript 
#documents, but have no idea how it is done. I hoped it would be as 

-Ajju.
		All limitations are self-imposed.
		- Ernest Holmes
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  5 06:16:30 2001
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Date: Fri, 05 Jan 2001 09:20:39 -0500
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: Bruce Murray <bmurray@bbn.com>
Subject: Bosch Motronic Details Wanted
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Folks,

I have been chasing down an intermittent problem on my ALFA 164 which uses
Motronic 4.2 system. The readings I have been taking show that the system
is nowhere as simple as the published literature indicates. I am wondering
if some one could explain the more subtle details of the working of these
units.

For example I have found that, using a Hall effect current sensor and
measuring the currents at various points in the circuit, the current
through the injectors shows, in addition to the expected variable duty
cycle, a lower current square wave at a constant frequency of about 100Hz.
Also the current through the idle speed regulator is not just quasi DC as I
would have expected, but contains a triangular waveform also at 100Hz.
Presumably this 100Hz is the bus timing.

I have searched high and low for info that explains in detail the operation
of the Motronic. I have read the manuals, and the Bosch books, but of
course they are directed toward people repairing cars and will not divulge
the interesting internal electronic design details.

I have also scoured the archives of this group to no real avail.

I must admit that fixing my car problem does not really require that I
understand the internals - it's just that I am intrigued.

Can anyone point me to this info, (SAE papers etc)?

Thanks

Bruce


Bruce S. Murray
Principal Engineer
BBN Technologies
a Verizon company
70 Fawcett Street
Cambridge, MA 02138
ph  617 873-3356
fax 617 873-2918
bmurray@bbn.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  5 06:56:14 2001
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From: "Franz, Paul" <PFranz@aisvt.bfg.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Motronic Question -  Pin Outs
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 09:55:44 -0500 
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Hello;

I have received a heavily re-programmed Bosch Motronic M1.0 (similar to an
M1.3)  This was used on the BMW 1988 M3 but has been reprogrammed via a
previous owner for a different application.  The Motronic has a 35 pin
connector.  

Oddly enough the system used 2 pins which are not documented in any of my
references.  

Pin 18 of the connector is a tied to ground.  
Pin 32 of the connector is tied to a separate connector which tied it to a
separate control module which has ceased to operate.  Any idea what Pin 32
is tied to within the Motronic?

I am interested in pulling the binaries out of the Motronic,  any hints at
software which can reverse compile the executable to determine the changes
use in the aftermarket unit versus the original Motronic? 

Franz
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan  5 07:35:17 2001
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Subject: Re: Problem erasing & re-using GM Proms
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 08:35:10 -0700
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Mike,
After erasing, try reading and checking that all the bytes have flipped
to "FF". Then up the programming voltage if it keeps giving you error
programming messages. I never solder anything--haven't had to yet.

Lyndon.
----- Original Message -----
From: <ECMnut@aol.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>; <gmecm@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2001 6:49 PM
Subject: Problem erasing & re-using GM Proms


> Have anyone been able to erase a GM prom & reprogram it?
> I always have to solder a regular 27xxxx eprom on before I can
> re-program..  I can never seem to re-burn the factory original
> prom, which doesn't seem to have meaningful identifiers on it.
> My latest is a 27256 like thing from a '93 L35 4.3 engine.
> Could I be using the wrong programming voltage?
> Thanks,
> Mike V
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan  6 06:45:26 2001
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From: Jens Knickmeyer <knickm@gmx.net>
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Subject: Bosch Monomotronic part identification
Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2001 15:44:32 +0100
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Hi all,

I need some help with part identification. All parts are from a 
Bosch Monomotronic of a '92 Volkswagen Polo 45hp. 
Text in "[]"-brackets describe symbols. The questionable parts are:

1. EPROM:
[Intel-"i"]
B57604
S7804
U2040283S

Sticker: 1 267 356 452


2.
[Bosch-Symbol]
30093
1092	
PLCC-package


3.
BF212M
B57677
SMD-14-package
<two of them are in the Monomotronic circuit>


4.
[Bosch-Symbol]
30 097 1192
CJ 53B
SMD-24-package


5.
Siemens
B57655
9204
SMD-20-package


6.
Phillips
B57574
HSS9208
SMD-20-package


Thanks in advance,

Jens Knickmeyer
knickm@gmx.net
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  7 11:47:56 2001
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From: "Phil Martin" <phil@muts.freeserve.co.uk>
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Subject: diy uego
Date: Sun, 7 Jan 2001 18:38:40 -0000
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_003F_01C078D9.0E403860
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Has anyone else built a diy uego circuit yet? If so any hints or useful =
changes to the circuit on the diy-efi site would be useful.=20

Thanks=20
Phillip Martin

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Has anyone else built a diy uego =
circuit yet? If so=20
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useful.=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Phillip =
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  7 12:13:46 2001
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Date: Sun, 07 Jan 2001 12:20:27 -0800
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Anybody here have any thoughts on reconfiguring ABS as traction
control?

Grant

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  7 14:57:37 2001
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Just compare front wheel speed to rear,
at like 6% rear wheel over speed drop 1 cyl
At 7-8 drop 3
9-10 drop 5
for a v-8.  I like dropin them by a prime number so you dont hammer any one
cylinder
Slippage amount will vary.  Need to allow some for over / under steer
Bruce




> Anybody here have any thoughts on reconfiguring ABS as traction
> control?
> Grant

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  7 15:13:15 2001
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>From what I have read, the VW ABS/ traction control works at under ~25
mph and applies brakes to the spinning wheel and reduces engine output.
Above 25 mph, it just reduces engine output. I don't know any more
details than that, but I can tell you that in very slippery conditions,
the drive by wire (electronic throttle) cars will start closing the
throttle to reduce output after they dump all the turbo boost.

-Seth

Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> Just compare front wheel speed to rear,
> at like 6% rear wheel over speed drop 1 cyl
> At 7-8 drop 3
> 9-10 drop 5
> for a v-8.  I like dropin them by a prime number so you dont hammer any one
> cylinder
> Slippage amount will vary.  Need to allow some for over / under steer
> Bruce
> 
> > Anybody here have any thoughts on reconfiguring ABS as traction
> > control?
> > Grant
> 
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  7 18:50:12 2001
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I was thinking along the lines of using individual brakes to perform a limited
slip function across open differentials.

Grant

Bruce Plecan wrote:

> Just compare front wheel speed to rear,
> at like 6% rear wheel over speed drop 1 cyl
> At 7-8 drop 3
> 9-10 drop 5
> for a v-8.  I like dropin them by a prime number so you dont hammer any one
> cylinder
> Slippage amount will vary.  Need to allow some for over / under steer
> Bruce
>
> > Anybody here have any thoughts on reconfiguring ABS as traction
> > control?
> > Grant
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jan  7 22:53:44 2001
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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?= <jurg@pp.sbbs.se>
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Subject: Turbo manifold design.
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 08:04:32 +0100
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Hi!

I am sorry for wasting the bandwidh, but I know many of you guys know a lot
about this subject.

I have built a new manifold for my car, the stock manifolds are no good.
They crack and snap the header studs. The stock manifold has separate
flanges for each runner.

Should I use separate flanges or should I use one large flange?

The flange will only be in contact with the head on a small surface around
the ports.

Jörgen Karlsson
Gothenburg, Sweden

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  8 05:11:53 2001
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From: espen hilde <mwichstr@online.no>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: SV: Turbo manifold design.
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 14:09:48 +0100
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If you are making a large  flange you should enlarge the holes from the 
middle to the end of flange,because it will expand more.If you make it in 
stainless it will expand even more.
I would cut the flange in parts after welding the tubes on.
Why is the stock manifold breaking the studs?
Maybe you can make some support for the turbo .
Espen


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  8 05:13:43 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
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Subject: RE: Turbo manifold design.
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 08:13:20 -0500 
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Did you allow for thermal expansion of your flange?  Make the holes that 
the studs go through larger than the stud.  Use a washer head nut for
retention.

-----Original Message-----
From: Jörgen Karlsson [mailto:jurg@pp.sbbs.se]
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 2:05 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Turbo manifold design.


Hi!

I am sorry for wasting the bandwidh, but I know many of you guys know a lot
about this subject.

I have built a new manifold for my car, the stock manifolds are no good.
They crack and snap the header studs. The stock manifold has separate
flanges for each runner.

Should I use separate flanges or should I use one large flange?

The flange will only be in contact with the head on a small surface around
the ports.

Jörgen Karlsson
Gothenburg, Sweden

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  8 05:24:22 2001
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Cc: "GMECM" <gmecm@diy-efi.org>
Subject: nitrous solenoids as fuel injectors?
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 08:33:30 -0500
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Has anyone tried controlling a nitrous oxide solenoid with a fuel injector
driver (like the ones used on GM controllers or aftermarket controllers)?
One of the NOS solenoids claims to only draw 0.6 amps so this sounds like it
might be compatible with a fuel injector driver. I need some very small
auxiliary twin cone injectors and just can't seem to find any so I was
thinking of using nitrous oxide style fuel nozzles and control a single
solenoid with a fuel injector driver. Any thoughts on this idea?



Jason Haines
jhaines@mail.fwi.com


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  8 06:20:49 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Turbo flange
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 09:20:12 -0500
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Corky Bell's book maximum boost has the formula that he recomends for 
enlarging the holes. I can't remember it off the top of my head and am away 
on business right now otherwise I would post it. I do remeber that I was 
shocked at how much he recomended enlarging the holes, it was pretty 
significant (I want to say 1/3 of the diameter of the hole). Slicing the 
flange after you weld the piping is also a good idea. I have a question 
regarding turbo header construction, has anyone found an elegant solution on 
how to merge the piping together. Need somethine like an NA header collector 
but it needs to be much shorter to ba able to mount the turbo in the engine 
bay.
Justin Ivan


>From: espen hilde <mwichstr@online.no>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: SV: Turbo manifold design.
>Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 14:09:48 +0100
>
>If you are making a large  flange you should enlarge the holes from the
>middle to the end of flange,because it will expand more.If you make it in
>stainless it will expand even more.
>I would cut the flange in parts after welding the tubes on.
>Why is the stock manifold breaking the studs?
>Maybe you can make some support for the turbo .
>Espen
>
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  8 09:40:28 2001
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Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 12:49:05 -0500
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I think some of the new BMW models use this slip control logic.

Jason



----- Original Message -----
From: "grobbins" <grannys@sos.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2001 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control


> I was thinking along the lines of using individual brakes to perform a
limited
> slip function across open differentials.
>
> Grant
>
> Bruce Plecan wrote:
>
> > Just compare front wheel speed to rear,
> > at like 6% rear wheel over speed drop 1 cyl
> > At 7-8 drop 3
> > 9-10 drop 5
> > for a v-8.  I like dropin them by a prime number so you dont hammer any
one
> > cylinder
> > Slippage amount will vary.  Need to allow some for over / under steer
> > Bruce
> >
> > > Anybody here have any thoughts on reconfiguring ABS as traction
> > > control?
> > > Grant
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  8 10:08:47 2001
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From: "Ade + Lamb Chop" <adrian.law@btinternet.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 18:05:18 -0000
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
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On 7 Jan 2001, at 18:57, grobbins wrote:

> I was thinking along the lines of using individual brakes to perform a
> limited slip function across open differentials.

I can see this working, as usual the electronics/programming side 
is just time and a small amount of money. However physically 
doing it is another matter.

How do you plan on applying brake power to single wheels?

Ade

ICQ. 75653589
www.adesite.co.uk
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  8 11:40:27 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 14:39:50 -0500
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VW uses this technology to somewhat disatourous affects. In aggressive (read 
drag racing) environments, the diff literally hammers itself apart as the 
brakes are constantly pulsed to try and keep traction. The downfall isn't so 
much in the traction control method but that VW uses crappy rivets and not 
30 bucks worth of bolts in it's diffs.
Justin aka vlkslvr



>From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
>Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 12:49:05 -0500
>
>I think some of the new BMW models use this slip control logic.
>
>Jason
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "grobbins" <grannys@sos.net>
>To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2001 9:57 PM
>Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
>
>
> > I was thinking along the lines of using individual brakes to perform a
>limited
> > slip function across open differentials.
> >
> > Grant
> >
> > Bruce Plecan wrote:
> >
> > > Just compare front wheel speed to rear,
> > > at like 6% rear wheel over speed drop 1 cyl
> > > At 7-8 drop 3
> > > 9-10 drop 5
> > > for a v-8.  I like dropin them by a prime number so you dont hammer 
>any
>one
> > > cylinder
> > > Slippage amount will vary.  Need to allow some for over / under steer
> > > Bruce
> > >
> > > > Anybody here have any thoughts on reconfiguring ABS as traction
> > > > control?
> > > > Grant
> > >
> >
> > 
>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  8 12:12:34 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 15:12:12 -0500 
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One thing i've learned in engineering:  The bean counters almost always win.

-----Original Message-----
From: justin ivan [mailto:vlkslvr@hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 2:40 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control


VW uses this technology to somewhat disatourous affects. In aggressive (read

drag racing) environments, the diff literally hammers itself apart as the 
brakes are constantly pulsed to try and keep traction. The downfall isn't so

much in the traction control method but that VW uses crappy rivets and not 
30 bucks worth of bolts in it's diffs.
Justin aka vlkslvr



>From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
>Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 12:49:05 -0500
>
>I think some of the new BMW models use this slip control logic.
>
>Jason
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "grobbins" <grannys@sos.net>
>To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2001 9:57 PM
>Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
>
>
> > I was thinking along the lines of using individual brakes to perform a
>limited
> > slip function across open differentials.
> >
> > Grant
> >
> > Bruce Plecan wrote:
> >
> > > Just compare front wheel speed to rear,
> > > at like 6% rear wheel over speed drop 1 cyl
> > > At 7-8 drop 3
> > > 9-10 drop 5
> > > for a v-8.  I like dropin them by a prime number so you dont hammer 
>any
>one
> > > cylinder
> > > Slippage amount will vary.  Need to allow some for over / under steer
> > > Bruce
> > >
> > > > Anybody here have any thoughts on reconfiguring ABS as traction
> > > > control?
> > > > Grant
> > >
> >
> > 
>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>--
> > > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
>quotes)
> > > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
>majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> > 
>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to 
>majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  8 12:27:05 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 15:26:29 -0500
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Couldn't agree more, that is why I left the field


>From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
>Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 15:12:12 -0500
>
>One thing i've learned in engineering:  The bean counters almost always 
>win.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: justin ivan [mailto:vlkslvr@hotmail.com]
>Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 2:40 PM
>To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
>
>
>VW uses this technology to somewhat disatourous affects. In aggressive 
>(read
>
>drag racing) environments, the diff literally hammers itself apart as the
>brakes are constantly pulsed to try and keep traction. The downfall isn't 
>so
>
>much in the traction control method but that VW uses crappy rivets and not
>30 bucks worth of bolts in it's diffs.
>Justin aka vlkslvr
>
>
>
> >From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
> >Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> >To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> >Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
> >Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 12:49:05 -0500
> >
> >I think some of the new BMW models use this slip control logic.
> >
> >Jason
> >
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "grobbins" <grannys@sos.net>
> >To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> >Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2001 9:57 PM
> >Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
> >
> >
> > > I was thinking along the lines of using individual brakes to perform a
> >limited
> > > slip function across open differentials.
> > >
> > > Grant
> > >
> > > Bruce Plecan wrote:
> > >
> > > > Just compare front wheel speed to rear,
> > > > at like 6% rear wheel over speed drop 1 cyl
> > > > At 7-8 drop 3
> > > > 9-10 drop 5
> > > > for a v-8.  I like dropin them by a prime number so you dont hammer
> >any
> >one
> > > > cylinder
> > > > Slippage amount will vary.  Need to allow some for over / under 
>steer
> > > > Bruce
> > > >
> > > > > Anybody here have any thoughts on reconfiguring ABS as traction
> > > > > control?
> > > > > Grant
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >--------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >--
> > > > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> >quotes)
> > > > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
> >majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> > >
> > >
> >--------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >--
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> >quotes)
> > > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
> >majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> > >
> > >
> >
> >---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>-
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  8 13:12:13 2001
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From: "Rob Weinstock" <weinstro@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 21:11:32 
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>Couldn't agree more, that is why I left the field
>>
>>One thing i've learned in engineering:  The bean counters almost always
>>win.

They are occasionally trumped by safety engineers or warranty claim 
problems.

Rob Weinstock
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  8 13:57:49 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 16:57:13 -0500
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Which are really nothing but disquised Bean Counters making sure that the 
money made up front doesn't go out the back end due to Lawsuits. Speaking of 
which did anyone hear that Ford settled another claim with the whole 
Firestone Debate? No $figure was given but the Lady was looking for $100 
million. Also, did anyone see the Motor Trend article where they took an 
explorer, "blew out" (dumped all pressure in <1 sec) the rear drivers tire @ 
70 mph with no hands on the wheel and the truck didn't flip? Thought it was 
more then interesting


>From: "Rob Weinstock" <weinstro@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
>Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 21:11:32
>
>>Couldn't agree more, that is why I left the field
>>>
>>>One thing i've learned in engineering:  The bean counters almost always
>>>win.
>
>They are occasionally trumped by safety engineers or warranty claim
>problems.
>
>Rob Weinstock
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  8 14:43:11 2001
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Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 22:43:15 +0000
From: Chris <chris@formula3.freeserve.co.uk>
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Subject: Two O2 probes, one pre, one post cat???
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Can I throw a question into the arena please? A lot of Japanese cars
(and others) are now appearing with 2 O2 sensors, one conventionally
placed one pre the cat, and a second one just after the cat. if one
removes the cat to remove back pressure on a turbo'd car as a
performance hike what would the ECU make of this? On some cars I have
done this to there is never a closed loop mixture problem, nor a check
engine light either and no fault codes get stored (Toyota). I always
replace the second probe in a similar location after the now removed
cat(s). Thanks

-- 
Best regards,
           Chris


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  8 15:00:36 2001
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Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
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....snip.....
> which did anyone hear that Ford settled another claim with the whole
> Firestone Debate? No $figure was given but the Lady was looking for $100
> million. Also, did anyone see the Motor Trend article where they took an
> explorer, "blew out" (dumped all pressure in <1 sec) the rear drivers tire
@
> 70 mph with no hands on the wheel and the truck didn't flip? Thought it
was
> more then interesting

I think the article you are talking about was in Car & Driver. The previous
month they discussed some of the statistics of the whole tire failure issue.
Pretty interesting although I would have liked to have seen the testing done
with front tire "blow outs" and a heavily loaded vehicle (and maybe even
some turning occurring when the blow out occurred).

Jason


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  8 15:09:41 2001
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From: "Rodney Fulk" <elixir@pathwaynet.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Two O2 probes, one pre, one post cat???
Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 18:10:08 -0500
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The '96 Impala came this way as well. They sell false O2 sensors that feed
an "alls right" signal back to the computer regardless and these fool the
computer into thinking everything is ok.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of Chris
> Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 5:43 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Two O2 probes, one pre, one post cat???
>
>
>
> Can I throw a question into the arena please? A lot of Japanese cars
> (and others) are now appearing with 2 O2 sensors, one conventionally
> placed one pre the cat, and a second one just after the cat. if one
> removes the cat to remove back pressure on a turbo'd car as a
> performance hike what would the ECU make of this? On some cars I have
> done this to there is never a closed loop mixture problem, nor a check
> engine light either and no fault codes get stored (Toyota). I always
> replace the second probe in a similar location after the now removed
> cat(s). Thanks
>
> --
> Best regards,
>            Chris
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----------
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without
> the quotes)
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Monday, January 08, 2001, 11:10:08 PM, you wrote:


> The '96 Impala came this way as well. They sell false O2 sensors that feed
> an "alls right" signal back to the computer regardless and these fool the
> computer into thinking everything is ok.


Any idea who sells these? Thanks.



-- 
Best regards,
 Chris


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  8 15:29:55 2001
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Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 18:30:24 -0500
From: Rob O <rjo1@home.com>
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Subject: Re: Two O2 probes, one pre, one post cat???
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OBD2 senses EGO before and after the cat to see if the cat is still
working. If they get the same reading, it makes the ECU unhappy. Best
bet is to plug the hole and zip-tie the 2nd O2 sensor to the body
somewhere so it always gets a nice fresh air reading

Rob_O

Chris wrote:
> 
> Can I throw a question into the arena please? A lot of Japanese cars
> (and others) are now appearing with 2 O2 sensors, one conventionally
> placed one pre the cat, and a second one just after the cat. if one
> removes the cat to remove back pressure on a turbo'd car as a
> performance hike what would the ECU make of this? On some cars I have
> done this to there is never a closed loop mixture problem, nor a check
> engine light either and no fault codes get stored (Toyota). I always
> replace the second probe in a similar location after the now removed
> cat(s). Thanks
> 
> --
> Best regards,
>            Chris
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jan  8 17:51:25 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
Date: Mon, 08 Jan 2001 20:50:49 -0500
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ahh maybe you are right C&D it was. Either way, yeah the test could have had 
more scenarios but it is interesting. I wonder what some people are doing 
out there on the road? I had a tread separation on a full size conversion 
van and I had no trouble controling it, yet just the other week I saw a full 
size van upside down on it's roof, and a couple of miles later, a jeep 
cherokee on it's side. What the hell are these people doing?


>From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
>Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 18:08:45 -0500
>
>....snip.....
> > which did anyone hear that Ford settled another claim with the whole
> > Firestone Debate? No $figure was given but the Lady was looking for $100
> > million. Also, did anyone see the Motor Trend article where they took an
> > explorer, "blew out" (dumped all pressure in <1 sec) the rear drivers 
>tire
>@
> > 70 mph with no hands on the wheel and the truck didn't flip? Thought it
>was
> > more then interesting
>
>I think the article you are talking about was in Car & Driver. The previous
>month they discussed some of the statistics of the whole tire failure 
>issue.
>Pretty interesting although I would have liked to have seen the testing 
>done
>with front tire "blow outs" and a heavily loaded vehicle (and maybe even
>some turning occurring when the blow out occurred).
>
>Jason
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 05:15:35 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 08:15:10 -0500 
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I seem to remember seeing Motorweek doing the same Explorer test with the
tire
pressure.  Keep in mind that the tread separation issue was caused by
excessive speed
for extended periods.  100MPH was quoted once.  I don't think it's
reasonable to 
think that you can drive an explorer at 100mph+ and *NOT* have problems
after a while.
Although what I've seen on I-94 at least here in Michigan, there are a fair
number of
people in SUV's going that fast.

-----Original Message-----
From: justin ivan [mailto:vlkslvr@hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 8:51 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control


ahh maybe you are right C&D it was. Either way, yeah the test could have had

more scenarios but it is interesting. I wonder what some people are doing 
out there on the road? I had a tread separation on a full size conversion 
van and I had no trouble controling it, yet just the other week I saw a full

size van upside down on it's roof, and a couple of miles later, a jeep 
cherokee on it's side. What the hell are these people doing?


>From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
>Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 18:08:45 -0500
>
>....snip.....
> > which did anyone hear that Ford settled another claim with the whole
> > Firestone Debate? No $figure was given but the Lady was looking for $100
> > million. Also, did anyone see the Motor Trend article where they took an
> > explorer, "blew out" (dumped all pressure in <1 sec) the rear drivers 
>tire
>@
> > 70 mph with no hands on the wheel and the truck didn't flip? Thought it
>was
> > more then interesting
>
>I think the article you are talking about was in Car & Driver. The previous
>month they discussed some of the statistics of the whole tire failure 
>issue.
>Pretty interesting although I would have liked to have seen the testing 
>done
>with front tire "blow outs" and a heavily loaded vehicle (and maybe even
>some turning occurring when the blow out occurred).
>
>Jason
>
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
>To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the 
>quotes)
>in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 05:20:23 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Two O2 probes, one pre, one post cat???
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 08:20:01 -0500 
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They are regular O2 sensors, tuned for a slightly different output.
When I worked at Ford, we talked to a O2 release engineer, who stated that 
they WERE different, and that you needed the proper ones in the proper
places.
The ones behind the cat are catalyst monitors, as one person stated, and
they
look for the *abscence* of toggling voltage.  If they start to toggle, the 
OBD2 monitoring sets a code.

-----Original Message-----
From: Chris [mailto:chris@formula3.freeserve.co.uk]
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2001 6:24 PM
To: Rodney Fulk
Subject: Re[2]: Two O2 probes, one pre, one post cat???


Monday, January 08, 2001, 11:10:08 PM, you wrote:


> The '96 Impala came this way as well. They sell false O2 sensors that feed
> an "alls right" signal back to the computer regardless and these fool the
> computer into thinking everything is ok.


Any idea who sells these? Thanks.



-- 
Best regards,
 Chris


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Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 08:26:27 -0500 (EST)
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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panicing, what the instinctive response when something bad happens ? lock the brake ( then a flat/blown irte is totaly scary). I had a 4dr subaru blow a rear tire last year. I didn't even notice a difference in handling in a straight line.
 I blew a tire of my 2dr tracker (lr tire again) and it was VERY scary. I think the driver makes 80% of a difference and the car 20%

Previously, you (justin ivan) wrote:
{ ahh maybe you are right C&D it was. Either way, yeah the test could have had 
{ more scenarios but it is interesting. I wonder what some people are doing 
{ out there on the road? I had a tread separation on a full size conversion 
{ van and I had no trouble controling it, yet just the other week I saw a full 
{ size van upside down on it's roof, and a couple of miles later, a jeep 
{ cherokee on it's side. What the hell are these people doing?
{ 
{ 
{ >From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
{ >Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
{ >To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
{ >Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
{ >Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 18:08:45 -0500
{ >
{ >....snip.....
{ > > which did anyone hear that Ford settled another claim with the whole
{ > > Firestone Debate? No $figure was given but the Lady was looking for $100
{ > > million. Also, did anyone see the Motor Trend article where they took an
{ > > explorer, "blew out" (dumped all pressure in <1 sec) the rear drivers 
{ >tire
{ >@
{ > > 70 mph with no hands on the wheel and the truck didn't flip? Thought it
{ >was
{ > > more then interesting
{ >
{ >I think the article you are talking about was in Car & Driver. The previous
{ >month they discussed some of the statistics of the whole tire failure 
{ >issue.
{ >Pretty interesting although I would have liked to have seen the testing 
{ >done
{ >with front tire "blow outs" and a heavily loaded vehicle (and maybe even
{ >some turning occurring when the blow out occurred).
{ >
{ >Jason
{ >
{ >
{ >----------------------------------------------------------------------------
{ >To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the 
{ >quotes)
{ >in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
{ >
{ 
{ _________________________________________________________________
{ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
{ 
{ ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
{ To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
{ in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
{ 

--
Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 06:11:26 2001
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From: Eric Bryant <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 09:12:06 -0500 
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> From: justin ivan [mailto:vlkslvr@hotmail.com]
> Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
> 
> 
> ahh maybe you are right C&D it was. Either way, yeah the test 
> could have had 
> more scenarios but it is interesting. I wonder what some 
> people are doing 
> out there on the road? I had a tread separation on a full 
> size conversion 
> van and I had no trouble controling it, yet just the other 
> week I saw a full 
> size van upside down on it's roof, and a couple of miles 
> later, a jeep 
> cherokee on it's side. What the hell are these people doing?

I've had tires go on my full-size van (including a tread seperation of a
Firestone), and it hasn't been a problem to control it.  Then again, I
wasn't traveling in excess of 80 MPH with an overloaded vehicle.  I've also
blown a *front* tire on our company's Accord at about 80 MPH, and it was
completely uneventful.  Tire failure doesn't have to result in an accident -
hell, tires fail less nowadays than ever before. 

I think that people don't realize that big SUVs are trucks, and need to be
driven as such.  I can get away with a lot of stupidity in my cars that I
can't in my van.  If you blow a tire on a car and do something dumb (like a
sudden steering or brake input), you might spin out and go off the road.
You do something like that in a van, SUV, or pick-up, and you can launch the
thing onto the roof pretty quickly (I know, since my friends and I have done
some "experiments" in this field).  Big, top-heavy vehicles just aren't as
error-tolerant as cars, and obviously there's a lot of people producing
error that's in excessive of tolerances.

In the Firestone/Ford case, there's a lot of blame to be assigned.  You've
got the afforementioned driver error, compounded by a vehicle platform
design that was marginal at best.  Then, you throw a cheap OEM tire at it,
and recommend an inflation setting that was set for passenger comfort (since
when are *trucks* supposed to ride well?).  In engineering, you perform a
"worst-case analysis" or "tolerance stack-up" where you take each component
in it's worst-case situation and determine the effect on the system.  The
whole Explorer thing was a great example of a worst-case situation. 

Eric Bryant
mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
http://www.novagate.com/~bryante 



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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 06:37:50 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 09:37:14 -0500
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Yeah there is a lot of blame to place. I personally still place a large 
portion of it on driver input. If people realized that they aren't driving 
the Honda civic they had for a first car, the roads would be a hell of a lot 
simpler. Like I said I drove a full size conversion van, and being at the 
ripe old age of 20 and 21, I did some stupid things in it. I took on/off 
ramps to quick, Dukes of Hazard slides in the dirt, I was rough on my 
throttle and steering input, hell I even got air in it once, but never, I 
mean never did I feel like I was going to tip it.
As far as tolerance stack-up, I know exactly where you are coming from on 
that one being that I designed biomedical micro-valves for a while. You 
forgot to mention that not only is a tolerance stack-up performed but that a 
factor of safety >1 should also be considered. That being said, I have heard 
that most engineering feats (specifically Buildings and bridges) factor in 1 
human death for every million dollars. Pretty odd to put a price on human 
life!


>In the Firestone/Ford case, there's a lot of blame to be assigned.  You've
>got the afforementioned driver error, compounded by a vehicle platform
>design that was marginal at best.  Then, you throw a cheap OEM tire at it,
>and recommend an inflation setting that was set for passenger comfort 
>(since
>when are *trucks* supposed to ride well?).  In engineering, you perform a
>"worst-case analysis" or "tolerance stack-up" where you take each component
>in it's worst-case situation and determine the effect on the system.  The
>whole Explorer thing was a great example of a worst-case situation.
>
>Eric Bryant
>mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
>http://www.novagate.com/~bryante
>
>
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 06:44:27 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 09:43:50 -0500
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My instinctive response is slowly let off the gas, don't touch the brake and 
be careful and gentle with the steering wheel. I really wish that the 
licensing structure here in america was more strict. Should have to pass a 
special test to drive a SUV etc.
Then again in America we have to have a license to drive, a license to 
hunt....
maybe we should have a license to pro-create.



>From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
>Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 08:26:27 -0500 (EST)
>
>panicing, what the instinctive response when something bad happens ? lock 
>the brake ( then a flat/blown irte is totaly scary). I had a 4dr subaru 
>blow a rear tire last year. I didn't even notice a difference in handling 
>in a straight line.
>  I blew a tire of my 2dr tracker (lr tire again) and it was VERY scary. I 
>think the driver makes 80% of a difference and the car 20%
>
>Previously, you (justin ivan) wrote:
>{ ahh maybe you are right C&D it was. Either way, yeah the test could have 
>had
>{ more scenarios but it is interesting. I wonder what some people are doing
>{ out there on the road? I had a tread separation on a full size conversion
>{ van and I had no trouble controling it, yet just the other week I saw a 
>full
>{ size van upside down on it's roof, and a couple of miles later, a jeep
>{ cherokee on it's side. What the hell are these people doing?
>{
>{
>{ >From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
>{ >Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>{ >To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>{ >Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
>{ >Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 18:08:45 -0500
>{ >
>{ >....snip.....
>{ > > which did anyone hear that Ford settled another claim with the whole
>{ > > Firestone Debate? No $figure was given but the Lady was looking for 
>$100
>{ > > million. Also, did anyone see the Motor Trend article where they took 
>an
>{ > > explorer, "blew out" (dumped all pressure in <1 sec) the rear drivers
>{ >tire
>{ >@
>{ > > 70 mph with no hands on the wheel and the truck didn't flip? Thought 
>it
>{ >was
>{ > > more then interesting
>{ >
>{ >I think the article you are talking about was in Car & Driver. The 
>previous
>{ >month they discussed some of the statistics of the whole tire failure
>{ >issue.
>{ >Pretty interesting although I would have liked to have seen the testing
>{ >done
>{ >with front tire "blow outs" and a heavily loaded vehicle (and maybe even
>{ >some turning occurring when the blow out occurred).
>{ >
>{ >Jason
>{ >
>{ >
>{ 
> >----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>{ >quotes)
>{ >in the body of a message (not the subject) to 
>majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>{ >
>{
>{ _________________________________________________________________
>{ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>{
>{ 
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>{
>
>--
>Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
>QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
>(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terence Matthews
>(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8
>
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>

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 06:49:53 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 09:49:30 -0500 
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IMHO, the American public is for the most part idiotic to want
the hugest truck they can get, expect it to drive just like a 
Cadillac, and have all the creature comforts of a Cadillac.
They are TRUCKS.  Period.  You can't throw that much mass around
and not expect it to have problems with high speed emergency 
maneuvers. 
And it's not that the Explorer was poorly designed, it's a truck,
designed to drive like a truck.  Where they got into trouble was
changing tire specs to get it to ride nice.

-----Original Message-----
From: Eric Bryant [mailto:BRYANTE@ghsp.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 9:12 AM
To: 'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'
Subject: RE: off topic / traction control



I think that people don't realize that big SUVs are trucks, and need to be
driven as such.  I can get away with a lot of stupidity in my cars that I
can't in my van.  If you blow a tire on a car and do something dumb (like a
sudden steering or brake input), you might spin out and go off the road.
You do something like that in a van, SUV, or pick-up, and you can launch the
thing onto the roof pretty quickly (I know, since my friends and I have done
some "experiments" in this field).  Big, top-heavy vehicles just aren't as
error-tolerant as cars, and obviously there's a lot of people producing
error that's in excessive of tolerances.

In the Firestone/Ford case, there's a lot of blame to be assigned.  You've
got the afforementioned driver error, compounded by a vehicle platform
design that was marginal at best.  Then, you throw a cheap OEM tire at it,
and recommend an inflation setting that was set for passenger comfort (since
when are *trucks* supposed to ride well?).  In engineering, you perform a
"worst-case analysis" or "tolerance stack-up" where you take each component
in it's worst-case situation and determine the effect on the system.  The
whole Explorer thing was a great example of a worst-case situation. 

Eric Bryant
mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
http://www.novagate.com/~bryante 



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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 07:13:10 2001
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From: Eric Bryant <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 10:13:55 -0500 
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> Like I said I drove a full size conversion van, and 
> being at the 
> ripe old age of 20 and 21, I did some stupid things in it. 

Hey, sounds a lot like my driving experience!  I picked up my '85 Chevy
conversion van when I was 20, and also did my fair share of dumb stuff in
it.  Once I dropped a GM crate motor into it and got about twice the power,
the dumb stuff started to happen at higher speeds:)  

I never felt close to rolling my van, but I almost endo'd my '78 Blazer
once.  I was also riding in my friend's S-10 Blazer when he was practicing
his rally driving - I believe the move is called the "Scandinavian Slide" (a
quick flick away from the direction of the turn, and then back into it - it
does a nice job of forcing the tail out, even on a vehicle that is prone to
massive understeer).  That one put the truck up on one wheel (the outside
front).  It was a pretty dumb maneuver, but honestly it could happen during
a last-second swerve around a road obstruction.


> You 
> forgot to mention that not only is a tolerance stack-up 
> performed but that a 
> factor of safety >1 should also be considered. 

But safety factors cost money, and you need to cut things as close as
possible.  This is where you need to pay careful attention to test and
validation results, rather than just depending on analysis if you're really
trying to get your safety factor close to 1.  

Eric Bryant
mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
http://www.novagate.com/~bryante  
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 07:16:22 2001
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From: Eric Bryant <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 10:17:06 -0500 
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> And it's not that the Explorer was poorly designed, it's a truck,
> designed to drive like a truck.  Where they got into trouble was
> changing tire specs to get it to ride nice.

Much of the problem came with trying to place a large wagon body onto the
relatively narrow Ranger platform.  Toss in the Twin-Traction-Beam front end
and piss-poor tires, and you're talking about a very marginal vehicle.  I'm
not saying that Ford is to blame for the accidents - hell, there's been a
lot of very marginal vehicles released by the Big Three over the past many
years. 

Eric Bryant
mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
http://www.novagate.com/~bryante 
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 07:17:04 2001
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From: "Franz, Paul" <PFranz@aisvt.bfg.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 10:16:25 -0500 
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Hello;

I will attempt to get this post back to the proper off-topic discussion....

Does anyone have any experience with the aftermarket product by Race Logic
(http://www.racelogic.co.uk)  They have one US distributor listed for their
ECU programming tools,  but no one is importing the traction control
computer.  This is the typical Spark and Fuel cut system which add to the
ECU and can be configured for various rates of tire slip.  

Concerning the use of ABS for traction control,  a lot of Bosch and Teves
systems have a pump to supply brake power to the system after the ABS system
isolates the brake pedal from the brake caliper.  These systems can then
increase or decrease the brake application force to the wheels.  These will
provide the capability to work with traction control or Dynamic stability.  

The newest models have the Computer integrated with the hydraulic unit,  but
earlier models  (late 80's) have the computer remote from the hydraulic
unit.  With a little investigation on wire diagrams,  any servo control
system could be configured to drive the hydraulic units.  Then the user
could program the controller to do what ever they desire.  (Dynamic
stability for tire blow outs on SUV's?)

Make sure the ABS system is a full 4 channel unit versus the 3 channel
designs.  The 3 channel designs do not isolate the individual rear brakes
and would not be optimal for Rear Wheel Drive traction control.

Franz

-----Original Message-----
From: grobbins [mailto:grannys@sos.net]
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2001 3:20 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: off topic / traction control


Anybody here have any thoughts on reconfiguring ABS as traction
control?

Grant

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 07:38:44 2001
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From: John Edward Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
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Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
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>> I was thinking along the lines of using individual brakes to perform
>> a limited slip function across open differentials.

</LURK>

Go drive some vehicles with OEM traction control.  My experience with such 
is that it's intrusive.

We happen to have two fairly similar vehicles, both with factory traction 
control, one has a limited-slip, one doesn't.  The car with limited-slip is 
smooth and controllable.  Flogging the one without yields lots of lurching 
and chirping.

John.

<LURK>



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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 07:39:27 2001
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Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 10:38:16 -0500 (EST)
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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 No that is a learned response! the instintive on is the one that created your 
first agricultural excursion, you learned from it most drivers didn't

Previously, you (justin ivan) wrote:
{ My instinctive response is slowly let off the gas, don't touch the brake and 
{ be careful and gentle with the steering wheel. I really wish that the 
{ licensing structure here in america was more strict. Should have to pass a 
{ special test to drive a SUV etc.

and have 'special' classes ie

90 year on oxygen shouldn't drive on 4 lane hiways, and shouldn't drive in rush      hour with out proven competence

hi speed ratings for drivers who are tested at speed, in certain cars. I hate being reduced to the lowest common competence level

{ Then again in America we have to have a license to drive, a license to 
{ hunt....
{ maybe we should have a license to pro-create.

here here

{ 
{ 
{ 
{ >From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
{ >Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
{ >To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
{ >Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
{ >Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 08:26:27 -0500 (EST)
{ >
{ >panicing, what the instinctive response when something bad happens ? lock 
{ >the brake ( then a flat/blown irte is totaly scary). I had a 4dr subaru 
{ >blow a rear tire last year. I didn't even notice a difference in handling 
{ >in a straight line.
{ >  I blew a tire of my 2dr tracker (lr tire again) and it was VERY scary. I 
{ >think the driver makes 80% of a difference and the car 20%
{ >
{ >Previously, you (justin ivan) wrote:
{ >{ ahh maybe you are right C&D it was. Either way, yeah the test could have 
{ >had
{ >{ more scenarios but it is interesting. I wonder what some people are doing
{ >{ out there on the road? I had a tread separation on a full size conversion
{ >{ van and I had no trouble controling it, yet just the other week I saw a 
{ >full
{ >{ size van upside down on it's roof, and a couple of miles later, a jeep
{ >{ cherokee on it's side. What the hell are these people doing?
{ >{
{ >{
{ >{ >From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
{ >{ >Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
{ >{ >To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
{ >{ >Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
{ >{ >Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 18:08:45 -0500
{ >{ >
{ >{ >....snip.....
{ >{ > > which did anyone hear that Ford settled another claim with the whole
{ >{ > > Firestone Debate? No $figure was given but the Lady was looking for 
{ >$100
{ >{ > > million. Also, did anyone see the Motor Trend article where they took 
{ >an
{ >{ > > explorer, "blew out" (dumped all pressure in <1 sec) the rear drivers
{ >{ >tire
{ >{ >@
{ >{ > > 70 mph with no hands on the wheel and the truck didn't flip? Thought 
{ >it
{ >{ >was
{ >{ > > more then interesting
{ >{ >
{ >{ >I think the article you are talking about was in Car & Driver. The 
{ >previous
{ >{ >month they discussed some of the statistics of the whole tire failure
{ >{ >issue.
{ >{ >Pretty interesting although I would have liked to have seen the testing
{ >{ >done
{ >{ >with front tire "blow outs" and a heavily loaded vehicle (and maybe even
{ >{ >some turning occurring when the blow out occurred).
{ >{ >
{ >{ >Jason
{ >{ >
{ >{ >
{ >{ 
{ > >----------------------------------------------------------------------------
{ >{ >To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
{ >{ >quotes)
{ >{ >in the body of a message (not the subject) to 
{ >majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
{ >{ >
{ >{
{ >{ _________________________________________________________________
{ >{ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
{ >{
{ >{ 
{ >----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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{ >quotes)
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{ >{
{ >
{ >--
{ >Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
{ >QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
{ >(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terence Matthews
{ >(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8
{ >
{ >----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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{ >quotes)
{ >in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
{ >
{ 
{ _________________________________________________________________
{ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
{ 
{ ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
{ To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
{ in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
{ 

--
Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 07:39:56 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
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Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
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I agree.  Anything over a 2 door explorer was pushing it.  
Ever look at the suspension on a TTB ranger?  Tiny!  The 
Center of gravity being high didn't help either.  I had heard
that the Bronco2's were especially prone to rollover due to narrow,
short wheelbase/high CG.

-----Original Message-----
From: Eric Bryant [mailto:BRYANTE@ghsp.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 10:17 AM
To: 'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'
Subject: RE: off topic / traction control


> And it's not that the Explorer was poorly designed, it's a truck,
> designed to drive like a truck.  Where they got into trouble was
> changing tire specs to get it to ride nice.

Much of the problem came with trying to place a large wagon body onto the
relatively narrow Ranger platform.  Toss in the Twin-Traction-Beam front end
and piss-poor tires, and you're talking about a very marginal vehicle.  I'm
not saying that Ford is to blame for the accidents - hell, there's been a
lot of very marginal vehicles released by the Big Three over the past many
years. 

Eric Bryant
mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
http://www.novagate.com/~bryante 
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 07:42:13 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 10:41:36 -0500
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  I'm
>not saying that Ford is to blame for the accidents - hell, there's been a
>lot of very marginal vehicles released by the Big Three over the past many
>years.
>
>Eric Bryant
>mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
>http://www.novagate.com/~bryante


Oddly enough, Ford's name pops to mind again--- Pinto anyone?
But Gm and chrysler have had it's share too.

I am just getting tired of marginal engineering decisions beeing twisted by 
mass media into being something more then they really are. Remeber the GM 
truck/gas tank deal on dateline a few years ago?
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 07:50:56 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
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Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
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I still feel that using brakes for traction control is less then ideal. 
While traction can be mantained utlizing this system, it can provide a ton 
of shock to the drivetrain. I feel that a spark/fuel cut is a more elegant 
solution, and one that should be attainable with the broad knowledge 
availble here and at other resources. Out of curiosity, what is you intended 
use for this application? To retrofit the family wagon that didn't have 
traction control as on option? I can't imagine it is for a race car 
considering that ABS is on board.
There is another programmable efi on the market from the UK that claims to 
do traction (they call it launch) control, the system is called DTA and the 
URL is http://www.badger5.co.uk/ look under engine management.
Justin


>From: "Franz, Paul" <PFranz@aisvt.bfg.com>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
>Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 10:16:25 -0500
>
>Hello;
>
>I will attempt to get this post back to the proper off-topic discussion....
>
>Does anyone have any experience with the aftermarket product by Race Logic
>(http://www.racelogic.co.uk)  They have one US distributor listed for their
>ECU programming tools,  but no one is importing the traction control
>computer.  This is the typical Spark and Fuel cut system which add to the
>ECU and can be configured for various rates of tire slip.
>
>Concerning the use of ABS for traction control,  a lot of Bosch and Teves
>systems have a pump to supply brake power to the system after the ABS 
>system
>isolates the brake pedal from the brake caliper.  These systems can then
>increase or decrease the brake application force to the wheels.  These will
>provide the capability to work with traction control or Dynamic stability.
>
>The newest models have the Computer integrated with the hydraulic unit,  
>but
>earlier models  (late 80's) have the computer remote from the hydraulic
>unit.  With a little investigation on wire diagrams,  any servo control
>system could be configured to drive the hydraulic units.  Then the user
>could program the controller to do what ever they desire.  (Dynamic
>stability for tire blow outs on SUV's?)
>
>Make sure the ABS system is a full 4 channel unit versus the 3 channel
>designs.  The 3 channel designs do not isolate the individual rear brakes
>and would not be optimal for Rear Wheel Drive traction control.
>
>Franz
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: grobbins [mailto:grannys@sos.net]
>Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2001 3:20 PM
>To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>Subject: off topic / traction control
>
>
>Anybody here have any thoughts on reconfiguring ABS as traction
>control?
>
>Grant
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 08:11:06 2001
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Unfortunately, that's the dynamic that our societal system has caused.
To get ahead, the media types want sensational stories to make a name
for themselves.  The big three, to provide money for their investors,
makes sometimes shoddy decisions.  The engineers themselves most times,
are idealists, and WANT to produce excellent vehicles, but get hampered
by the bean counters.  


-----Original Message-----
From: justin ivan [mailto:vlkslvr@hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2001 10:42 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: off topic / traction control



  I'm
>not saying that Ford is to blame for the accidents - hell, there's been a
>lot of very marginal vehicles released by the Big Three over the past many
>years.
>
>Eric Bryant
>mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
>http://www.novagate.com/~bryante


Oddly enough, Ford's name pops to mind again--- Pinto anyone?
But Gm and chrysler have had it's share too.

I am just getting tired of marginal engineering decisions beeing twisted by 
mass media into being something more then they really are. Remeber the GM 
truck/gas tank deal on dateline a few years ago?
_________________________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 08:32:57 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 11:32:19 -0500
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I couldn't agree more. That's why I left the engineering field my decisions 
were ultimately dictated by the bean counters and not best practice.
Justin


>From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
>Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 11:10:41 -0500
>
>Unfortunately, that's the dynamic that our societal system has caused.
>To get ahead, the media types want sensational stories to make a name
>for themselves.  The big three, to provide money for their investors,
>makes sometimes shoddy decisions.  The engineers themselves most times,
>are idealists, and WANT to produce excellent vehicles, but get hampered
>by the bean counters.
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 10:12:29 2001
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From: "Andy Laurence" <rodneyfunnie@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 18:11:53 -0000
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>I still feel that using brakes for traction control is less then ideal.
>While traction can be mantained utlizing this system, it can provide a ton
>of shock to the drivetrain.

I have to agress.  Unfortunately, you can't adjust the slip at each wheel 
without either braking a wheel or an electronic differential.  Last year (or 
maybe the year before) in either RaceTech or RaceCar Engineering was an 
article of speculation about McLaren and how they might get around their 
active wheel braking being banned.  It used two standard planetary 
differentials but operating on different ratios.  The inputs were rigidly 
connected, but the output shafts were not.  One diff had its output shafts 
directly connected to the wheels, whilst the other one had clutches 
connecting the two output shafts together.  As one wheel started to slip, 
the clutch on the other side was engaged to speed up the other wheel 
(consequently slowing the other wheel down through the planetary diff).  
Seems like a very good solution to the problem, and possibly easier to 
implement.  Any takers?

Andy
_________________________________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 12:45:00 2001
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Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 20:44:53 +0000
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Subject: Re[4]: Two O2 probes, one pre, one post cat???
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Tuesday, January 09, 2001, 1:20:01 PM, you wrote:


> They are regular O2 sensors, tuned for a slightly different output.
> When I worked at Ford, we talked to a O2 release engineer, who stated that 
> they WERE different, and that you needed the proper ones in the proper
> places.
> The ones behind the cat are catalyst monitors, as one person stated, and
> they
> look for the *abscence* of toggling voltage.  If they start to toggle, the 
> OBD2 monitoring sets a code.

How would you suggest I work around this then? Leave things alone as
apparently it all works fine, or do some sort of trickery? Like what
:-)?  Thanks for the info!

-- 
Best regards,
 Chris


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 13:45:00 2001
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From: Bob Tom <tigers@bserv.com>
Subject: Re[4]: Two O2 probes, one pre, one post cat???
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At 08:44 PM 1/9/01 +0000, you wrote:
>How would you suggest I work around this then? Leave things alone as
>apparently it all works fine, or do some sort of trickery? Like what:-)?
>Thanks for the info!    Chris

I would leave it as is since it's not triggering the MIL.  The post-cat O2 
sensor
does not effect the a/f mixture calibration done by the computer.


Bob Tom       Burlington, Ont., Canada
'97 CC Dakota, 5.2L, 4x2, auto., 3.92SG, 4,265 lb (racing weight)
Dyno:   231.2 rwhp                340.0 lb-ft rwtorque
PB:      14.737 @ 91.75         9.364 @ 72.95

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 15:58:02 2001
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Subject: Re: Re[4]: Two O2 probes, one pre, one post cat???
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Well--yes it does. If you remove the converter--leave the second O2
installed, it'll run the fuel system lean. The first O2 will swing rich
lean--and the PCM will adjust AFR to keep the 'verter"burn" going. That's
how the programming was done to eliminate an air pump.

The second O2 is monitoring the burn, right ?? If the burn isn't
correct--the system keeps cutting back fuel, less and less fuel--until the
BL's are in the 155 to 160 range. It may not set a code, but it'll
definitely be in the lean side...BTDT.

Not trying to start another flame war <G>... but this is the end result.

Lyndon

> I would leave it as is since it's not triggering the MIL.  The post-cat O2
> sensor
> does not effect the a/f mixture calibration done by the computer.
>
>
> Bob Tom       Burlington, Ont., Canada
> '97 CC Dakota, 5.2L, 4x2, auto., 3.92SG, 4,265 lb (racing weight)
> Dyno:   231.2 rwhp                340.0 lb-ft rwtorque
> PB:      14.737 @ 91.75         9.364 @ 72.95
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 16:19:04 2001
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From: "TVS" <tkmvs@bigfoot.com>
To: "DIY EFI" <DIY_EFI@lists.diy-efi.org>
Subject: (Bit off topic) turbo lag...
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 00:09:50 -0000
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  I know it's a bit of topic and  I know it's been discussed many times
before (read the archives!) but I would appreciate some advice.
  I'm planing on turbocharging a Hillman Imp engine (a 930cc SOHC) with a T3
Garrett, which is bit on the large side for the engine. An intercooler would
also be used. The boost will be electronically controlled to slightly
increase and flatten the torque curve. This is to keep the head gasket in
one piece, allow a high static CR to be used and increase the toque at high
rpm to make as much power as possible. I'm hoping to allow the engine to
usefully rev to 8,500 rpm.
  There seems to be two options to keep the turbo spinning between
gearchanges:
1) Re-circulate the air from the outlet back into the inlet. This would
occur during gearchanges and, perhaps, below a given RPM so the turbo would
spool up faster. However I am concerned that the turbo *could* be over
revved.
2) Restrict the air into the turbo like a carburettored suck-thought system.
Could cause problems with oil seals and would increase the throttled volume
and so reduce throttle response. Perhaps two throttle bodies could be used
in series?
  As the car is going to be fundamentally a road car but will also be used
for hill climbs and sprints, keeping the turbo in one piece is of the utmost
importance! i.e. I don't want in inject raw fuel into the exhaust manifold!
;) I have asked a Garrett main dealer for advice but they basically told me
they weren't interested (didn't want to be held responsible if it went
wrong) and I should go to a tuning company (i.e. with a blank cheque).
Many thanks, Toby


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 17:08:19 2001
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From: "Joe Beninca" <beninca@ains.net.au>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
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Subject: Re: (Bit off topic) turbo lag...
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----- Original Message -----
From: Joe <beninca@ains.net.au>
To: DIY EFI <DIY_EFI@lists.diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, 10 January 2001 11:09 AM
Subject: (Bit off topic) turbo lag...


>   I know it's a bit of topic and  I know it's been discussed many times
> before (read the archives!) but I would appreciate some advice.
>   I'm planing on turbocharging a Hillman Imp engine (a 930cc SOHC) with a
T3
> Garrett, which is bit on the large side for the engine. An intercooler
would
> also be used. The boost will be electronically controlled to slightly
> increase and flatten the torque curve. This is to keep the head gasket in
> one piece, allow a high static CR to be used and increase the toque at
high
> rpm to make as much power as possible. I'm hoping to allow the engine to
> usefully rev to 8,500 rpm.

You must start with a fully adjustable sequential ECU like Autronic for
accurate control on fuel and spark
You need to take care with water circulation to take out any "Hot Spots"

>   There seems to be two options to keep the turbo spinning between
> gearchanges:
> 1) Re-circulate the air from the outlet back into the inlet. This would
> occur during gearchanges and, perhaps, below a given RPM so the turbo
would
> spool up faster. However I am concerned that the turbo *could* be over
> revved.

Autronic has an antilag feature which is easy to implement.
No, the turbo cannot be over reved in an antilag situation with correct
control

> 2) Restrict the air into the turbo like a carburettored suck-thought
system.
> Could cause problems with oil seals and would increase the throttled
volume
> and so reduce throttle response. Perhaps two throttle bodies could be used
> in series?

The only way is to have too throttles in series as you have suggested but
controlled by the Before turbo throttle  ECU controlled as in the F1 turbo
days. Autronic has a mappable output for this purpose. This is too
difficult.

>   As the car is going to be fundamentally a road car but will also be used
> for hill climbs and sprints, keeping the turbo in one piece is of the
utmost
> importance! i.e. I don't want in inject raw fuel into the exhaust
manifold!
> ;) I have asked a Garrett main dealer for advice but they basically told
me
> they weren't interested (didn't want to be held responsible if it went
> wrong) and I should go to a tuning company (i.e. with a blank cheque).
> Many thanks, Toby

Use a ball bearing turbo and a correctly designed turbo exhaust manifold.
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
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I can't count the number of times that I've been cruising along about 85 in
my little Laser, and have some fool in an Explorer pass me like I wasn't
even there. "I'm in a hurry, got to get to hell before somebody else gets my
spot!"

Scott C.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>

>Keep in mind that the tread separation issue was caused by
> excessive speed
> for extended periods.  100MPH was quoted once.  I don't think it's
> reasonable to
> think that you can drive an explorer at 100mph+ and *NOT* have problems
> after a while.
> Although what I've seen on I-94 at least here in Michigan, there are a
fair
> number of
> people in SUV's going that fast.
>


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 17:38:00 2001
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Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 20:34:32 -0500
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: Bob Tom <tigers@bserv.com>
Subject: Re: Re[4]: Two O2 probes, one pre, one post cat???
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At 04:57 PM 1/9/01 -0700, you wrote:
>Well--yes it does. If you remove the converter--leave the second O2
>installed, it'll run the fuel system lean. The first O2 will swing rich
>lean--and the PCM will adjust AFR to keep the 'verter"burn" going. That's
>how the programming was done to eliminate an air pump.
>
>The second O2 is monitoring the burn, right ?? If the burn isn't
>correct--the system keeps cutting back fuel, less and less fuel--until the
>BL's are in the 155 to 160 range. It may not set a code, but it'll
>definitely be in the lean side...BTDT.
>
>Not trying to start another flame war <G>... but this is the end result.
>
>Lyndon

You may be correct, Lyndon.  It's something that I'll have to try and find out
about ... at least, for the Dakota PCM.  I know when I was testing a customized
PCM with 24# injectors (stock are 19#) with my scanner. the first O2 sensor
was showing outputs swinging back and forth but, after about 10 min. of
driving, the second one gave a constant rich output while the first still kept
fluctuated rich/lean.


Bob Tom       Burlington, Ont., Canada
'97 CC Dakota, 5.2L, 4x2, auto., 3.92SG, 4,265 lb (racing weight)
Dyno:   231.2 rwhp                340.0 lb-ft rwtorque
PB:      14.737 @ 91.75         9.364 @ 72.95

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 18:18:06 2001
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Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 21:18:48 -0500
From: Rob O <rjo1@home.com>
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Subject: Re: Turbo flange
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In that book he shows some nice cast collectors, the credit for the pic
was cartech. Give them a call, maybe they have something you could use

Let me know if they have anything useful, I'm looking at making some
custom manifolds for a project myself

Rob_O

justin ivan wrote:
> 
> Corky Bell's book maximum boost has the formula that he recomends for
> enlarging the holes. I can't remember it off the top of my head and am away
> on business right now otherwise I would post it. I do remeber that I was
> shocked at how much he recomended enlarging the holes, it was pretty
> significant (I want to say 1/3 of the diameter of the hole). Slicing the
> flange after you weld the piping is also a good idea. I have a question
> regarding turbo header construction, has anyone found an elegant solution on
> how to merge the piping together. Need somethine like an NA header collector
> but it needs to be much shorter to ba able to mount the turbo in the engine
> bay.
> Justin Ivan
> 
> >From: espen hilde <mwichstr@online.no>
> >Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> >To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> >Subject: SV: Turbo manifold design.
> >Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 14:09:48 +0100
> >
> >If you are making a large  flange you should enlarge the holes from the
> >middle to the end of flange,because it will expand more.If you make it in
> >stainless it will expand even more.
> >I would cut the flange in parts after welding the tubes on.
> >Why is the stock manifold breaking the studs?
> >Maybe you can make some support for the turbo .
> >Espen
> >
> >
> >----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
> 
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 18:21:21 2001
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Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2001 21:22:02 -0500
From: Rob O <rjo1@home.com>
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Subject: Re: nitrous solenoids as fuel injectors?
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Isn't that how the progressive nitrous controllers work? Pulsing the
solenoid??

I don't think they hold up too it very well though, not really designed
for that kind of (ab)use and I wouldn't want one to fail under boost.
Could get very expensive real quick

Rob_O

"Jason R. Haines" wrote:
> 
> Has anyone tried controlling a nitrous oxide solenoid with a fuel injector
> driver (like the ones used on GM controllers or aftermarket controllers)?
> One of the NOS solenoids claims to only draw 0.6 amps so this sounds like it
> might be compatible with a fuel injector driver. I need some very small
> auxiliary twin cone injectors and just can't seem to find any so I was
> thinking of using nitrous oxide style fuel nozzles and control a single
> solenoid with a fuel injector driver. Any thoughts on this idea?
> 
> Jason Haines
> jhaines@mail.fwi.com
> 
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 18:25:25 2001
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I'm waiting for the "stuff and solder" version myself. I don't have the
technical skills to design a proper display 

I'm very much hoping it will be coming shortly, race season is just
around the corner again

Rob_O

> Phil Martin wrote:
> 
> Has anyone else built a diy uego circuit yet? If so any hints or
> useful changes to the circuit on the diy-efi site would be useful.
> 
> Thanks
> Phillip Martin
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jan  9 19:56:29 2001
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From: "Axel Rietschin" <axel_rietschin@compuserve.com>
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Subject: Re: (Bit off topic) turbo lag...
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 04:55:46 +0100
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>   I know it's a bit of topic and  I know it's been discussed many times
> before (read the archives!) but I would appreciate some advice.
>   I'm planing on turbocharging a Hillman Imp engine (a 930cc SOHC) with a
T3
> Garrett, which is bit on the large side for the engine.

More than a bit on the large side, IMHO, at this unit is often found on
engines with twice the displacement.

> An intercooler would
> also be used. The boost will be electronically controlled to slightly
> increase and flatten the torque curve. This is to keep the head gasket in
> one piece, allow a high static CR to be used and increase the toque at
high
> rpm to make as much power as possible. I'm hoping to allow the engine to
> usefully rev to 8,500 rpm.

What kind of high CR are you planning to use? 9 - 9.5 to 1 is about as high
as you can get if you use 102 octane race fuel. With 98 unleaded, 8.5 - 8.8
is probably very high. If you compress more, you'll reach the knock limit
really early under boost and you'll need to set your spark advance to a
(much) less than optimal point, negating most of the benefits of
turbocharging.

>   There seems to be two options to keep the turbo spinning between
> gearchanges:
> 1) Re-circulate the air from the outlet back into the inlet. This would
> occur during gearchanges and, perhaps, below a given RPM so the turbo
would
> spool up faster. However I am concerned that the turbo *could* be over
> revved.

This won't really cut it. Recirculating the air will make it slow down a
little slower, maybe. However, this won't be really noticeable. In my
experience, dump valves and the like do absolutely nothing to the turbo lag,
just noise and some 'peace of mind'. The turbo will certainly not over-rev
with the throttle closed :)

> 2) Restrict the air into the turbo like a carburettored suck-thought
system.
> Could cause problems with oil seals and would increase the throttled
volume
> and so reduce throttle response. Perhaps two throttle bodies could be used
> in series?

This will most likely over-rev the turbo as you'll create a vaacum condition
at the turbo inlet.

Anti-lag systems basically work by bypassing a *lot* of air around the
throttle butterfly, either by using a solenoid air bypass valve or by
keeping the throttle open (say 25-30 degree) using some kind of actuator. As
a rule of thumb, you need to bypass enough air to make the engine rev up to
its max rpm speed in neutral. Ignition is retarded according to throttle
position, starting around mid-throttle and ending at 40 to 50 degrees of
retard (from the normal spark advance) when the throttle is fully released.
Also, a certain amount (say 0 to 50%, again starting around mid-throttle) of
fuel pulses are cut to partially stall the engine so you still have some
engine brake and the vehicle slows down normally when the throttle is
closed. Older anti-lag systems used to cut part of the ignition but this
resulted in gratuitous bangs and flames in the exhaust with big surges and
spikes in the boost - not a really smooth ride. Cutting fuel is just as
effective as slowing down the engine despite the bypassed air and is less
destructive (and still bangs enough because of the retard). Of course, your
ECU must support all those retard and cut functions. This system is
extremely effective, the turbo lag is reduced to zero when shifting, exiting
tight corners etc. However, you have to *seriously* heat-shield everything
around the turbo and manifold and make sure there is absolutely no oil leak
in that area to avoid engine fires. The turbo is orange-yellow when driving
hard with ALS active.

>   As the car is going to be fundamentally a road car but will also be used
> for hill climbs and sprints, keeping the turbo in one piece is of the
utmost
> importance! i.e. I don't want in inject raw fuel into the exhaust
manifold!
> ;) I have asked a Garrett main dealer for advice but they basically told
me
> they weren't interested (didn't want to be held responsible if it went
> wrong) and I should go to a tuning company (i.e. with a blank cheque).
> Many thanks, Toby

What you really need to do to your T3 if you want to make it ALS-proof is to
use a 360deg thrust bearing and also replace the turbine with a stronger
one. The standard turbine has Inconel blades and a steel shaft and tend to
break at the junction when heated above 950 degrees C or so, temp which is
more than easily reached when ALS is activated. What you want is a type 247
'Maram' turbine, which is made out of a single piece of Inconel. The turbine
blades can machined ("cut back") in a way that will reduce backpressure and
limit the max turbo speed to a safe value. This part is, however, *very,
very* expensive. Check www.turbotechnics.com they are extremely experienced
as they developped the T3's and T35's used by Ford for World rallying, where
anti-lag systems are born and heavily used. They can supply all parts and do
the necessary machining or supply complete, ready to race ALS-capable units.
They usually are happy to give advice as long as you ask the right questions
:)

>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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HTH,
Axel


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 10 00:09:26 2001
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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?= <jurg@pp.sbbs.se>
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Subject: RE: Turbo manifold design.
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 09:20:11 +0100
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The stock manifold has separate flanges, but since the manifold is pretty
strong it does not flex anyway.

My thinking was that if I used one large flange it would not get as hot as
the manifold itself. Maybe it would be 250ºC, thats a big improvement over
the 700+ºC temperature of the tubing.

Unfortunally the flange will only be in contact with the head at the ports,
if the head was flat like that of a Honda VTEC engine the flange would have
the same temperature as the head and all the stress would be on the tubes
and welds of the manifold itself.

I think that one problem are that when the manifold slides against the head
the nut does not slide against the manifold, the stud gets bent back and
forth everytime the temperature changes. But sometimes when the temperature
gets real high the nut might slides and gets stuck in an other position,
then when the manifold cools down the stud is breaks. I am pretty sure that
this is what happens.

One guy I know are sure that the studs break because of the weight of the
turbo, I don't belive in this since the studs break in the oposite end of
the manifold compared to the turbo. But the end where the studs break has
higher exhaust temperature then the end where the turbo is installed, that
supports my thermal expansion theory.

If I still get problems with this manifold I will have to install slip joint
at the outer runners, these leak a bit and I hope to avoid them.

Jörgen

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Subject: Re: Turbo manifold design.
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Jörgen Karlsson tapped away at the keyboard with:

> The stock manifold has separate flanges, but since the manifold is pretty
> strong it does not flex anyway.

It should. That's how you cope with the different expansion.
The stiffer the manifold, the greater the stress on the manifold
attachment. The manifold should only be strong enough to contain the
exhaust gases. :-)

With an allow head and steel manifold, you automatically have to
cope with different rates of expansion. If each runner is
individually-flanged, then the stress is reduced because the runner
flexes individually. Only a small amount of stress results in each
flange because it's fixed in at least two places.

> My thinking was that if I used one large flange it would not get as hot as
> the manifold itself. Maybe it would be 250ºC, thats a big improvement over
> the 700+ºC temperature of the tubing.

More, smaller flanges is better because of the reason described
above. If you put all the runners onto the same flange, then they
work in parallel, trying to keep the flange from expanding under
the applied heat in addition to the flange stretching from the bolts
of the flange...

If you can't do individual flanges, then reduce the flange cross-section
between ports to increase flexibility. That will reduce the stress
on the bolts, as well as the head as the strain (stretch) is
accomodated in the more flexible portions of the flange.

Avoid sharp edges where you reduce the flange section and ensure that 
the gasket is adequately supported.

> Unfortunally the flange will only be in contact with the head at
> the ports, if the head was flat like that of a Honda VTEC engine
> the flange would have the same temperature as the head and all the
> stress would be on the tubes and welds of the manifold itself.

> I think that one problem are that when the manifold slides against
> the head the nut does not slide against the manifold, the stud
> gets bent back and forth everytime the temperature changes. But
> sometimes when the temperature gets real high the nut might slides
> and gets stuck in an other position, then when the manifold cools
> down the stud is breaks. I am pretty sure that this is what
> happens.

That's typical of an "over-constrained" system.

-- 
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 10 04:14:39 2001
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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?= <jurg@pp.sbbs.se>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Turbo manifold design.
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 13:25:30 +0100
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Berndt wrote:

> Jörgen Karlsson tapped away at the keyboard with:
>
> > The stock manifold has separate flanges, but since the manifold
> is pretty
> > strong it does not flex anyway.
>
> It should. That's how you cope with the different expansion.
> The stiffer the manifold, the greater the stress on the manifold
> attachment. The manifold should only be strong enough to contain the
> exhaust gases. :-)

I agree, but tell that to Audi.

> With an allow head and steel manifold, you automatically have to
> cope with different rates of expansion.

Where the thermal expansion of steel are about half of the thermal expansion
of aluminum, at least if my memory serves me right and the information
wasn't corrupted in the first place. Since the full lenght flange will
always be hotter then the head this is good, the problem occurs when it gets
more then twice as hot as the head. One calculation I did was that the
flange plate will grow 1.9mm in it's full length when it is at 350ºC,
compared to 20ºC.  The head should grow around 2mm if the area around the
exhaust ports stabilize at 200ºC. The tubing of the exhaust manifold on the
other hand will expand 4.2mm compared to room temperature, that is at 700ºC.
By checking the color of the stock manifold after a few miles at 150mph I
find that the temperature of the exhaust manifold is even higher then that.


> If each runner is
> individually-flanged, then the stress is reduced because the runner
> flexes individually. Only a small amount of stress results in each
> flange because it's fixed in at least two places.

On a common turbo manifold the runners cannot flex idividually, if they
could there wouldn't be much of a problem. All expansion adds up in this
case even if I have separate flanges. The difference as I see it is that the
studs has to take the force of 2mm of expansion at 700ºC, compared to 0.1mm
if I use one large flange. The relatively cool flange will keep the stress
of the studs.

Individual flanges are very easy to make, the problem is that I don't think
that it will work. It hasn't before and I don't think that it will now. The
big common flange is a few hours extra work for me.

I am more sure then ever about this

Jörgen

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 10 04:56:16 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Turbo manifold design.
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 07:55:40 -0500
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Not sure if I agree with everyting that you are saying. When the flange is a 
single piece, essential all (really just a large portion) of the expansion 
takes place at the ends of the flange, the material in between constrains 
the flange from expanding towards the center. When the flange is separated, 
each port can expand in 2 directions, therefore has more flexibility.
If someone can debunk this please do.
Justin Ivan


>From: Jörgen Karlsson <jurg@pp.sbbs.se>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: RE: Turbo manifold design.
>Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 13:25:30 +0100
>
>Berndt wrote:
>
> > Jörgen Karlsson tapped away at the keyboard with:
> >
> > > The stock manifold has separate flanges, but since the manifold
> > is pretty
> > > strong it does not flex anyway.
> >
> > It should. That's how you cope with the different expansion.
> > The stiffer the manifold, the greater the stress on the manifold
> > attachment. The manifold should only be strong enough to contain the
> > exhaust gases. :-)
>
>I agree, but tell that to Audi.
>
> > With an allow head and steel manifold, you automatically have to
> > cope with different rates of expansion.
>
>Where the thermal expansion of steel are about half of the thermal 
>expansion
>of aluminum, at least if my memory serves me right and the information
>wasn't corrupted in the first place. Since the full lenght flange will
>always be hotter then the head this is good, the problem occurs when it 
>gets
>more then twice as hot as the head. One calculation I did was that the
>flange plate will grow 1.9mm in it's full length when it is at 350ºC,
>compared to 20ºC.  The head should grow around 2mm if the area around the
>exhaust ports stabilize at 200ºC. The tubing of the exhaust manifold on the
>other hand will expand 4.2mm compared to room temperature, that is at 
>700ºC.
>By checking the color of the stock manifold after a few miles at 150mph I
>find that the temperature of the exhaust manifold is even higher then that.
>
>
> > If each runner is
> > individually-flanged, then the stress is reduced because the runner
> > flexes individually. Only a small amount of stress results in each
> > flange because it's fixed in at least two places.
>
>On a common turbo manifold the runners cannot flex idividually, if they
>could there wouldn't be much of a problem. All expansion adds up in this
>case even if I have separate flanges. The difference as I see it is that 
>the
>studs has to take the force of 2mm of expansion at 700ºC, compared to 0.1mm
>if I use one large flange. The relatively cool flange will keep the stress
>of the studs.
>
>Individual flanges are very easy to make, the problem is that I don't think
>that it will work. It hasn't before and I don't think that it will now. The
>big common flange is a few hours extra work for me.
>
>I am more sure then ever about this
>
>Jörgen
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 10 05:06:25 2001
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Corky Bell agrees with the separate flange theory, if that matters to
you.  He shows hand fabricated manifolds manufactured with one piece
flanges. Then the flanges are cut with a hacksaw between each individual
port to reduce cracking. 

-Seth

justin ivan wrote:
> 
> Not sure if I agree with everyting that you are saying. When the flange is a
> single piece, essential all (really just a large portion) of the expansion
> takes place at the ends of the flange, the material in between constrains
> the flange from expanding towards the center. When the flange is separated,
> each port can expand in 2 directions, therefore has more flexibility.
> If someone can debunk this please do.
> Justin Ivan
> 
> >From: Jörgen Karlsson <jurg@pp.sbbs.se>
> >Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> >To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> >Subject: RE: Turbo manifold design.
> >Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 13:25:30 +0100
> >
> >Berndt wrote:
> >
> > > Jörgen Karlsson tapped away at the keyboard with:
> > >
> > > > The stock manifold has separate flanges, but since the manifold
> > > is pretty
> > > > strong it does not flex anyway.
> > >
> > > It should. That's how you cope with the different expansion.
> > > The stiffer the manifold, the greater the stress on the manifold
> > > attachment. The manifold should only be strong enough to contain the
> > > exhaust gases. :-)
> >
> >I agree, but tell that to Audi.
> >
> > > With an allow head and steel manifold, you automatically have to
> > > cope with different rates of expansion.
> >
> >Where the thermal expansion of steel are about half of the thermal
> >expansion
> >of aluminum, at least if my memory serves me right and the information
> >wasn't corrupted in the first place. Since the full lenght flange will
> >always be hotter then the head this is good, the problem occurs when it
> >gets
> >more then twice as hot as the head. One calculation I did was that the
> >flange plate will grow 1.9mm in it's full length when it is at 350ºC,
> >compared to 20ºC.  The head should grow around 2mm if the area around the
> >exhaust ports stabilize at 200ºC. The tubing of the exhaust manifold on the
> >other hand will expand 4.2mm compared to room temperature, that is at
> >700ºC.
> >By checking the color of the stock manifold after a few miles at 150mph I
> >find that the temperature of the exhaust manifold is even higher then that.
> >
> >
> > > If each runner is
> > > individually-flanged, then the stress is reduced because the runner
> > > flexes individually. Only a small amount of stress results in each
> > > flange because it's fixed in at least two places.
> >
> >On a common turbo manifold the runners cannot flex idividually, if they
> >could there wouldn't be much of a problem. All expansion adds up in this
> >case even if I have separate flanges. The difference as I see it is that
> >the
> >studs has to take the force of 2mm of expansion at 700ºC, compared to 0.1mm
> >if I use one large flange. The relatively cool flange will keep the stress
> >of the studs.
> >
> >Individual flanges are very easy to make, the problem is that I don't think
> >that it will work. It hasn't before and I don't think that it will now. The
> >big common flange is a few hours extra work for me.
> >
> >I am more sure then ever about this
> >
> >Jörgen
> >
> >----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> >quotes)
> >in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
> 
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 10 05:37:24 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: (Bit off topic) turbo lag...
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 08:36:48 -0500
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>What kind of high CR are you planning to use? 9 - 9.5 to 1 is about as high
>as you can get if you use 102 octane race fuel. With 98 unleaded, 8.5 - 8.8
>is probably very high. If you compress more, you'll reach the knock limit
>really early under boost and you'll need to set your spark advance to a
>(much) less than optimal point, negating most of the benefits of
>turbocharging.
>
I have to disagree with the concept of CR and turbos. Yes a lower CR does 
allow you the ability to run higher boost numbers without retarding timing 
too much, but I know of at least 2 (there are plenty more) guys that are 
running 1.8L 4 cyl with a stock static CR of 10.0:1. The key is careful 
tuning and a good programmable system. I know that they don't run higher 
then 102 octane fuel, and they are making some good power #'s. That being 
said it does require very careful tuning. I am building a turbo motor right 
now (2035cc 4 cyl DOHC) and I plan on running a static CR of 9.0~9.2:1 
depending on how the head gasket spacer I am using turns out. Going to run 
this on 92 octane with ~10-14lbs of boost depending on what I can tune it 
too. Of course I am going for a full programmable (in my case an 
aftermarket) EFI system
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 10 08:17:43 2001
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
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Intake valve closing timing is critical, along with overlap.
Just considering CR is falsehood.
You can make more HP by using more boost, but in non boosted situations you
can wind up with a really lame engine.   Which brings application into
focus.
Bruce


>
> >What kind of high CR are you planning to use? 9 - 9.5 to 1 is about as
high
> >as you can get if you use 102 octane race fuel. With 98 unleaded, 8.5 -
8.8
> >is probably very high. If you compress more, you'll reach the knock limit
> >really early under boost and you'll need to set your spark advance to a
> >(much) less than optimal point, negating most of the benefits of
> >turbocharging.
> >
> I have to disagree with the concept of CR and turbos. Yes a lower CR does
> allow you the ability to run higher boost numbers without retarding timing
> too much, but I know of at least 2 (there are plenty more) guys that are
> running 1.8L 4 cyl with a stock static CR of 10.0:1. The key is careful
> tuning and a good programmable system. I know that they don't run higher
> then 102 octane fuel, and they are making some good power #'s. That being
> said it does require very careful tuning. I am building a turbo motor
right
> now (2035cc 4 cyl DOHC) and I plan on running a static CR of 9.0~9.2:1
> depending on how the head gasket spacer I am using turns out. Going to run
> this on 92 octane with ~10-14lbs of boost depending on what I can tune it
> too. Of course I am going for a full programmable (in my case an
> aftermarket) EFI system
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
>

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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?= <jurg@pp.sbbs.se>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Turbo manifold design.
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 17:38:21 +0100
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Justin Ivan wrote:

> Not sure if I agree with everyting that you are saying. When the
> flange is a
> single piece, essential all (really just a large portion) of the
> expansion
> takes place at the ends of the flange, the material in between constrains
> the flange from expanding towards the center. When the flange is
> separated,
> each port can expand in 2 directions, therefore has more flexibility.
> If someone can debunk this please do.

If the manifold had looked like an ordinary V8 header I wouldn't have
anything against using separate flanges, it would be far better then using
one large flange. An ordinary header usually has pretty long runners in thin
material that are pretty flexible.

In my case the distance between the ports are 86mm and the runners are
routed the shortest possible way to the runner next to it, turbo exhaust
manifolds must also be made from a bit heavier tubes then ordinary headers.
To prevent cracking I used high quality tube bends and welded it with
electrodes made for the specific material.

This makes my manifold very strong, to make the ends of it flex 2mm requires
a lot of force. A lot more force then I would trust the manifold studs with.

When we use separate flanges the temperature of the tubes in the exhaust
manifold decides how long the manifold will be. From room temperature to
700ºC the manifold will grow 4mm.

If we use one long flange that is bolted to the head, the temperature of the
flange will decide the length of the manifold. Since one side of this flange
is bolted to the engine that I guess are 200ºC around the ports, one side
are welded to the runners and 80% of its surface are exposed to the air I
would guess that it will have a temperature somewhere in the middle of the
200º engine and the 700ºrunners. Hopefully closer to the engine temperature.
I think that the flange temperature will be around 250-350ºC. Since the 1/2"
thick flange will be a lot stronger then the red hot runners of the manifold
it will not be affected much by the runners will to grow 4mm when the flange
only has grown 1-2mm, the runners will hopefully take the beating without
cracking to often.

Since the cylinderhead will grow with temperature too the flange and the
head will hopefully grow about the same amount.


Jörgen

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 10 08:34:35 2001
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <FFELLMEAKKMHJGCNJEGIOEAKCMAA.jurg@pp.sbbs.se>
Subject: Re: Turbo manifold design.
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:34:40 -0500
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I like Hugh McInnes's way.
Particully if using short tubes, then use sleeve fitting of the tubes (or
bellows).
If long primaries not as critical.
Individual flanges, given a few thousand heat cycles can be about impossible
to line up.
Again, no universal rules about what's best.
Bruce

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 10 09:00:26 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: (Bit off topic) turbo lag...
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:59:47 -0500
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I agree a low CR can be a concern w/o boost. It all depends on the 
application that you are intending.


>From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: Re: (Bit off topic) turbo lag...
>Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:17:40 -0500
>
>
>Intake valve closing timing is critical, along with overlap.
>Just considering CR is falsehood.
>You can make more HP by using more boost, but in non boosted situations you
>can wind up with a really lame engine.   Which brings application into
>focus.
>Bruce
>
>
> >
> > >What kind of high CR are you planning to use? 9 - 9.5 to 1 is about as
>high
> > >as you can get if you use 102 octane race fuel. With 98 unleaded, 8.5 -
>8.8
> > >is probably very high. If you compress more, you'll reach the knock 
>limit
> > >really early under boost and you'll need to set your spark advance to a
> > >(much) less than optimal point, negating most of the benefits of
> > >turbocharging.
> > >
> > I have to disagree with the concept of CR and turbos. Yes a lower CR 
>does
> > allow you the ability to run higher boost numbers without retarding 
>timing
> > too much, but I know of at least 2 (there are plenty more) guys that are
> > running 1.8L 4 cyl with a stock static CR of 10.0:1. The key is careful
> > tuning and a good programmable system. I know that they don't run higher
> > then 102 octane fuel, and they are making some good power #'s. That 
>being
> > said it does require very careful tuning. I am building a turbo motor
>right
> > now (2035cc 4 cyl DOHC) and I plan on running a static CR of 9.0~9.2:1
> > depending on how the head gasket spacer I am using turns out. Going to 
>run
> > this on 92 octane with ~10-14lbs of boost depending on what I can tune 
>it
> > too. Of course I am going for a full programmable (in my case an
> > aftermarket) EFI system
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
> >
> > 
>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 10 10:26:58 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Turbo manifold design.
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 13:26:21 -0500
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If you are insistent on running a single flange then you should enlarge the 
hole and use a washer as it was suggested.


>From: Jörgen Karlsson <jurg@pp.sbbs.se>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: RE: Turbo manifold design.
>Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 17:38:21 +0100
>
>Justin Ivan wrote:
>
> > Not sure if I agree with everyting that you are saying. When the
> > flange is a
> > single piece, essential all (really just a large portion) of the
> > expansion
> > takes place at the ends of the flange, the material in between 
>constrains
> > the flange from expanding towards the center. When the flange is
> > separated,
> > each port can expand in 2 directions, therefore has more flexibility.
> > If someone can debunk this please do.
>
>If the manifold had looked like an ordinary V8 header I wouldn't have
>anything against using separate flanges, it would be far better then using
>one large flange. An ordinary header usually has pretty long runners in 
>thin
>material that are pretty flexible.
>
>In my case the distance between the ports are 86mm and the runners are
>routed the shortest possible way to the runner next to it, turbo exhaust
>manifolds must also be made from a bit heavier tubes then ordinary headers.
>To prevent cracking I used high quality tube bends and welded it with
>electrodes made for the specific material.
>
>This makes my manifold very strong, to make the ends of it flex 2mm 
>requires
>a lot of force. A lot more force then I would trust the manifold studs 
>with.
>
>When we use separate flanges the temperature of the tubes in the exhaust
>manifold decides how long the manifold will be. From room temperature to
>700ºC the manifold will grow 4mm.
>
>If we use one long flange that is bolted to the head, the temperature of 
>the
>flange will decide the length of the manifold. Since one side of this 
>flange
>is bolted to the engine that I guess are 200ºC around the ports, one side
>are welded to the runners and 80% of its surface are exposed to the air I
>would guess that it will have a temperature somewhere in the middle of the
>200º engine and the 700ºrunners. Hopefully closer to the engine 
>temperature.
>I think that the flange temperature will be around 250-350ºC. Since the 
>1/2"
>thick flange will be a lot stronger then the red hot runners of the 
>manifold
>it will not be affected much by the runners will to grow 4mm when the 
>flange
>only has grown 1-2mm, the runners will hopefully take the beating without
>cracking to often.
>
>Since the cylinderhead will grow with temperature too the flange and the
>head will hopefully grow about the same amount.
>
>
>Jörgen
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 10 10:29:28 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Turbo manifold design.
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 13:28:52 -0500
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I't not familiar with Hugh McInnes but the idea of a slip joint is 
appealing, my only question is how to keep them from leaking? Bellows would 
solve this problem but could be difficult to produce.
Justin


>From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: Re: Turbo manifold design.
>Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:34:40 -0500
>
>I like Hugh McInnes's way.
>Particully if using short tubes, then use sleeve fitting of the tubes (or
>bellows).
>If long primaries not as critical.
>Individual flanges, given a few thousand heat cycles can be about 
>impossible
>to line up.
>Again, no universal rules about what's best.
>Bruce
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 10 10:43:45 2001
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From: "Axel Rietschin" <axel_rietschin@compuserve.com>
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Subject: Re: (Bit off topic) turbo lag...
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> >What kind of high CR are you planning to use? 9 - 9.5 to 1 is about as
high
> >as you can get if you use 102 octane race fuel. With 98 unleaded, 8.5 -
8.8
> >is probably very high. If you compress more, you'll reach the knock limit
> >really early under boost and you'll need to set your spark advance to a
> >(much) less than optimal point, negating most of the benefits of
> >turbocharging.
> >
> I have to disagree with the concept of CR and turbos. Yes a lower CR does
> allow you the ability to run higher boost numbers without retarding timing
> too much, but I know of at least 2 (there are plenty more) guys that are
> running 1.8L 4 cyl with a stock static CR of 10.0:1. The key is careful
> tuning and a good programmable system.

Definitely :)

> I know that they don't run higher
> then 102 octane fuel, and they are making some good power #'s.

I get 200hp per 1000cc on a 2000cc engine with 98 fuel and 8.8:1 CR. I reach
the knock limit well before MBT as the torque still increases when the
engine starts pinging. Some people get up to 275hp per 1000cc on the same
type of engine with 7.2:1 CR and the same fuel. What are your numbers with
the 10.0:1 engine?

> That being
> said it does require very careful tuning. I am building a turbo motor
right
> now (2035cc 4 cyl DOHC) and I plan on running a static CR of 9.0~9.2:1
> depending on how the head gasket spacer I am using turns out. Going to run
> this on 92 octane with ~10-14lbs of boost depending on what I can tune it
> too. Of course I am going for a full programmable (in my case an
> aftermarket) EFI system




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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 10 10:59:06 2001
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Subject: Re: (Bit off topic) turbo lag...
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
>
> I agree a low CR can be a concern w/o boost. It all depends on the
> application that you are intending.

Definitely. In the example mentionned, I'd use a much smaller turbo (like
perhaps a T2). With a T3 on a 1000cc engine, *plenty* of boost will be
available, at the expense of lag. I'd say you'll need a relatively low CR to
take advantage of all that boost. Application included road but, more
importantly, some hillclimb and sprints where utmost power is critical, and
the original author intended to use an anti-lag system. This pretty much
defines the application.

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and don't use strainless steel. it tends to get sticky and galled when hot and moving

Previously, you (justin ivan) wrote:
{ If you are insistent on running a single flange then you should enlarge the 
{ hole and use a washer as it was suggested.
{ 
{ 
{ >From: Jörgen Karlsson <jurg@pp.sbbs.se>
{ >Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
{ >To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
{ >Subject: RE: Turbo manifold design.
{ >Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 17:38:21 +0100
{ >
{ >Justin Ivan wrote:
{ >
{ > > Not sure if I agree with everyting that you are saying. When the
{ > > flange is a
{ > > single piece, essential all (really just a large portion) of the
{ > > expansion
{ > > takes place at the ends of the flange, the material in between 
{ >constrains
{ > > the flange from expanding towards the center. When the flange is
{ > > separated,
{ > > each port can expand in 2 directions, therefore has more flexibility.
{ > > If someone can debunk this please do.
{ >
{ >If the manifold had looked like an ordinary V8 header I wouldn't have
{ >anything against using separate flanges, it would be far better then using
{ >one large flange. An ordinary header usually has pretty long runners in 
{ >thin
{ >material that are pretty flexible.
{ >
{ >In my case the distance between the ports are 86mm and the runners are
{ >routed the shortest possible way to the runner next to it, turbo exhaust
{ >manifolds must also be made from a bit heavier tubes then ordinary headers.
{ >To prevent cracking I used high quality tube bends and welded it with
{ >electrodes made for the specific material.
{ >
{ >This makes my manifold very strong, to make the ends of it flex 2mm 
{ >requires
{ >a lot of force. A lot more force then I would trust the manifold studs 
{ >with.
{ >
{ >When we use separate flanges the temperature of the tubes in the exhaust
{ >manifold decides how long the manifold will be. From room temperature to
{ >700ºC the manifold will grow 4mm.
{ >
{ >If we use one long flange that is bolted to the head, the temperature of 
{ >the
{ >flange will decide the length of the manifold. Since one side of this 
{ >flange
{ >is bolted to the engine that I guess are 200ºC around the ports, one side
{ >are welded to the runners and 80% of its surface are exposed to the air I
{ >would guess that it will have a temperature somewhere in the middle of the
{ >200º engine and the 700ºrunners. Hopefully closer to the engine 
{ >temperature.
{ >I think that the flange temperature will be around 250-350ºC. Since the 
{ >1/2"
{ >thick flange will be a lot stronger then the red hot runners of the 
{ >manifold
{ >it will not be affected much by the runners will to grow 4mm when the 
{ >flange
{ >only has grown 1-2mm, the runners will hopefully take the beating without
{ >cracking to often.
{ >
{ >Since the cylinderhead will grow with temperature too the flange and the
{ >head will hopefully grow about the same amount.
{ >
{ >
{ >Jörgen
{ >
{ >----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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{ >quotes)
{ >in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
{ >
{ 
{ _________________________________________________________________
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{ 
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{ 

--
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QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 10 11:27:50 2001
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <F4sp3MSi6xzmeWgUSp30001495b@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Turbo manifold design.
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A long slip joint with a couple thou clearance, run for a while the Carbon
will make it air tight, yet will sllow some slippage, I think it was a 2"
sleeve, maybe someone has a copy of the book...
The bellows are findable.
Bruce



> I't not familiar with Hugh McInnes but the idea of a slip joint is
> appealing, my only question is how to keep them from leaking? Bellows
would
> solve this problem but could be difficult to produce.
> Justin
>
>
> >From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
> >Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> >To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> >Subject: Re: Turbo manifold design.
> >Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:34:40 -0500
> >
> >I like Hugh McInnes's way.
> >Particully if using short tubes, then use sleeve fitting of the tubes (or
> >bellows).
> >If long primaries not as critical.
> >Individual flanges, given a few thousand heat cycles can be about
> >impossible
> >to line up.
> >Again, no universal rules about what's best.
> >Bruce
> >
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> >To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> >quotes)
> >in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: (Bit off topic) turbo lag...
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 15:01:12 -0500
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>I get 200hp per 1000cc on a 2000cc engine with 98 fuel and 8.8:1 CR. I 
>reach
>the knock limit well before MBT as the torque still increases when the
>engine starts pinging. Some people get up to 275hp per 1000cc on the same
>type of engine with 7.2:1 CR and the same fuel. What are your numbers with
>the 10.0:1 engine?

Hmm I am not sure about exact #'s but let me give some futher background, 
they are junkyard motors, 130,000+ miles, not headwork, stock cams and 
bottom end. Junkyard T3 super 60 turbos and a SDS programmable efi. I would 
estimate from the quarter mile  time/MPH that the power is around 330 at the 
crank, give or take.
One of the things to remember and I get in trouble with this myself that 
it's not so much boost pressure but airflow at that pressure that makes the 
power.
I have an 8:1 turbo motor in a street car and I feel like the bottom end is 
a little to weak, I would really like to see sometihng closer to 9:1 for the 
street.
Let's take this off-line if you want to discuss more, I'd be interested in 
hearing more about your set-up
Justin Ivan
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 10 13:25:01 2001
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Book shows a 1/4" - 1/2" gap between the pipe ends with a 1" to 2"
of slip fit. Suggested .004" - .005" clearance between inner & outer
pipes for mild steel, .005" - .008" for stainless steel. Claims very
little leaks as the inner pipe runs hotter then the outer and expands
more. Also talks about not insulating the pipes.

BobR.

Bruce Plecan wrote:

> A long slip joint with a couple thou clearance, run for a while the Carbon
> will make it air tight, yet will sllow some slippage, I think it was a 2"
> sleeve, maybe someone has a copy of the book...
> The bellows are findable.
> Bruce
>
> > I't not familiar with Hugh McInnes but the idea of a slip joint is
> > appealing, my only question is how to keep them from leaking? Bellows
> would
> > solve this problem but could be difficult to produce.
> > Justin
> >
> >
> > >From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
> > >Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > >To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> > >Subject: Re: Turbo manifold design.
> > >Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:34:40 -0500
> > >
> > >I like Hugh McInnes's way.
> > >Particully if using short tubes, then use sleeve fitting of the tubes (or
> > >bellows).
> > >If long primaries not as critical.
> > >Individual flanges, given a few thousand heat cycles can be about
> > >impossible
> > >to line up.
> > >Again, no universal rules about what's best.
> > >Bruce
> > >
> >
> >---------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 10 15:42:12 2001
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>  Then again in America we have to have a license to drive, a license to 
>  hunt....
>  maybe we should have a license to pro-create.
> 

We do. It is called a marriage license. However, it is not mandatory.

-- 
Robert W. Hughes (Bob)
BackYard Engineering
29:40.237N, 95:28.726W or perhaps 30:55.265N, 95:20.590W
Houston, Texas "The city with too much Oxygen"
rwhughe@ev1.net
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 10 16:11:47 2001
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Subject: Re: (Bit off topic) turbo lag...
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 23:54:43 -0000
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   Thanks for the replies. Perhaps I should go into a bit more detail as to
what I'm looking for and how I think I can achieve it. The car is a 1970 MG
Midget which will weigh about 1200lbs. I've heard that a T3 on one of these
engines wouldn't start making boost until around 4000rpm, the cam I've got
is a "Sport"  which give max torque at about 3,500 rpm and max power at
around 6,500rpm assuming std sized valves/ports. This together with a CR of
around 9.5:1 and using 98 'super unleaded' should give reasonable
performance off boost...during normal road use. I need adequate torque
between 2000 and 3000 rpm, which this should provide, to allow an overdrive
to be used giving 20mph per 1000rpm. I'm also planing on using a large,
separate, EGR valve to bypass the exhaust around the turbo to reduce
back-pressure during cruse. In all, I think this should give very good
economy.
   Once past 4000rpm it should start to make boost, which will be varied to
keep the torque at around 80/85lbsft all the way up to around
8,000/8,500rpm.... asuming it doesn't knock at 4000rpm/85lbstf then I don't
see why it should at 8,500rpm? (But I'm probably wrong!)  So it should make
120-140Hp. Boost regulation, retarted igniton, and perhaps water injection,
would be used to try and give the best power curve. This is the sort of rpm
range that would be used for hill climbing and sprints.... and overtaking on
the road!
  It seems that useing  a large throttle bodey to recirculate the air
thought the turbo during gearchanges would be the easiest way to reduce lag.
I wounder if air could also be circulated below, say, 3,800rpm then the the
buterfly progresivly shut....  turbo lag would also be reduced when when
accelerating past this point?
  Please excuse my ignorance, but I was unaware that exhuast header design
was particulary important on a turbo engine! Is it posible to take advantage
of tuned lengths? (I'll seach the arcives) Most turbo headers I've seen are
very crude, cast, and contain almost right angle bends!
  Many thanks, Toby

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 10 16:43:13 2001
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From: "Axel Rietschin" <axel_rietschin@compuserve.com>
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> Hmm I am not sure about exact #'s but let me give some futher background,
> they are junkyard motors, 130,000+ miles, not headwork, stock cams and
> bottom end. Junkyard T3 super 60 turbos and a SDS programmable efi. I
would
> estimate from the quarter mile  time/MPH that the power is around 330 at
the
> crank, give or take.
> One of the things to remember and I get in trouble with this myself that
> it's not so much boost pressure but airflow at that pressure that makes
the
> power.

>From what I understand, the airflow scales pretty much linearly with the
pressure, for all practical purposes. The point of diminishing returns is
when you have to retard and move away from MBT because of knock.

> I have an 8:1 turbo motor in a street car and I feel like the bottom end
is
> a little to weak, I would really like to see sometihng closer to 9:1 for
the
> street.

..or maybe a smaller turbine housing?

> Let's take this off-line if you want to discuss more, I'd be interested in
> hearing more about your set-up

Sure.

--Axel


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----- Original Message -----
From: Joe<beninca@ains.net.au>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Thursday, 11 January 2001 10:54 AM
Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold importance

Exhaust manifold design is as important on a turbo engine as a normally
aspirated one.
Eg    www.beninca.com.au/turbo_charging.htm
Also the race winning Ford Sierra  Cosworth turbo had a similar design.
In the examples above ,turbo lag is reduced.


Joe


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 10 18:43:45 2001
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@home.com>
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References: <F4sp3MSi6xzmeWgUSp30001495b@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Turbo manifold design.
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 21:44:42 -0800
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Latest version (2nd) of his book is available as ISBN # 0-89586-135-6 .
Pretty decent reading.  Covers a pretty broad spectrum in layman's terms.  A
bit dated.

Walt.



----- Original Message -----
From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 10:28 AM
Subject: Re: Turbo manifold design.


> I't not familiar with Hugh McInnes but the idea of a slip joint is
> appealing, my only question is how to keep them from leaking? Bellows
would
> solve this problem but could be difficult to produce.
> Justin
>
>
> >From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
> >Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> >To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> >Subject: Re: Turbo manifold design.
> >Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:34:40 -0500
> >
> >I like Hugh McInnes's way.
> >Particully if using short tubes, then use sleeve fitting of the tubes (or
> >bellows).
> >If long primaries not as critical.
> >Individual flanges, given a few thousand heat cycles can be about
> >impossible
> >to line up.
> >Again, no universal rules about what's best.
> >Bruce
> >


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 10 20:06:55 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: The Math
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 20:9:27 -0800
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I had a link to a site that had a bunch of calculators for converting
things (like 30 lb injectors to gm/sec, etc), I can not find it.  anyone
have such a source?

thanks


--- Bob Wooten
--- r71chevy@earthlink.net
--- www.r71camaro.homestead.com
--- 71-91 RS Camaro


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jan 10 21:49:50 2001
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From: romans@starstream.net (Romans, Mark)
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Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
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The newspaper article I read stated that the internal Ford Docs stated
that Ford's own internal testing showed the Explorer wasn't very stable
and that Ford decreased the tire pressure not for ride quality but to make
the tires have less grip so it wouldn't roll as easily.  When the dropped
the
tire pressure it would pass Ford's own internal stability test, with the
tire pressure
raised it was not stable enough.

That's why I would sell a jeep or other really capable off road vehicle
before allowing
my kids to drive it because by design what makes a vehicle capable off road
makes it less stable on road.
(Narrow track, High CG).
Mark

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 11 00:46:19 2001
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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?= <jurg@pp.sbbs.se>
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Subject: RE: Turbo manifold design.
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Justin Ivan wrote:

> I't not familiar with Hugh McInnes but the idea of a slip joint is
> appealing, my only question is how to keep them from leaking?
> Bellows would
> solve this problem but could be difficult to produce.


The original plan was to use slip joints at the outer runners, but with the
large radius bends I used there wasn't any room for them. If you check this
3D sketch you see a slipjoint using a labyrinth seal, these can be made
shorter then the ordinary type.
http://www7.ewebcity.com/jurgmannen/junk/slipjoint.jpg


I have some pictures of the exhaust manifold on my site:
http://quattro.xrs.net


Jörgen

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Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 04:16:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
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-> The newspaper article I read stated that the internal Ford Docs
-> stated that Ford's own internal testing showed the Explorer wasn't
-> very stable and that Ford decreased the tire pressure not for ride
-> quality but to make the tires have less grip so it wouldn't roll as
-> easily.  When the dropped the
-> tire pressure it would pass Ford's own internal stability test, with
-> the tire pressure
-> raised it was not stable enough.

 Even allowing that story is true, so what?  It shows that Ford did test
the vehicle, that they found a problem (surely they find problems with
some regularity, or they wouldn't bother to test, would they?) and they
came up with a fix for that problem.

 There have been lots of cars very sensitive to tire pressure.  The
Chrysler K-cars could easily be rolled over if the front tires were
underinflated; there was even a big media flap over it.  Hell, I *saw*
one do it once.  Before that, the Corvair used different tire pressures
front and back.

 Ford can't be held responsible for people driving around with under- or
over- inflated tires, any more than they can be responsible for the same
idiots hitting other cars or stationary objects.  Most drivers are
absolute morons anyway.
                                                                                                                 
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 11 04:36:14 2001
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On incoming there is: miscmath.xls (or .zip). This has
a bunch of calcs that Jason put together. Recently I was
looking for Bowlings site, couldn't seem to find it.

BobR.


>I had a link to a site that had a bunch of calculators for converting
>things (like 30 lb injectors to gm/sec, etc), I can not find it.  anyone
>have such a source?
>
>thanks
>
>
>--- Bob Wooten
>--- r71chevy@earthlink.net
>--- www.r71camaro.homestead.com
>--- 71-91 RS Camaro
>
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 11 05:08:43 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
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Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
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I'd be interested to see that document.  

-----Original Message-----
From: romans@starstream.net [mailto:romans@starstream.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 12:49 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control


The newspaper article I read stated that the internal Ford Docs stated
that Ford's own internal testing showed the Explorer wasn't very stable
and that Ford decreased the tire pressure not for ride quality but to make
the tires have less grip so it wouldn't roll as easily.  When the dropped
the
tire pressure it would pass Ford's own internal stability test, with the
tire pressure
raised it was not stable enough.

That's why I would sell a jeep or other really capable off road vehicle
before allowing
my kids to drive it because by design what makes a vehicle capable off road
makes it less stable on road.
(Narrow track, High CG).
Mark

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 11 05:11:26 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
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Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 08:11:12 -0500
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My brother rolled his K car, it's true.

-----Original Message-----
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us
[mailto:dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us]
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 4:16 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control


 There have been lots of cars very sensitive to tire pressure.  The
Chrysler K-cars could easily be rolled over if the front tires were
underinflated; there was even a big media flap over it.  Hell, I *saw*
one do it once.  
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 11 07:13:04 2001
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Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
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Hmmm....that seems ag'nst all logic. Normally, you lower tire pressure for
traction and the result is also instability <g>. They had balance harmonics
in those things  that resulted in the inability to get the vibration out of
the chassis at 34 psi pressure. They found that lowered tire pressure took
out the vibes--and gave you a smooooth ride. Unfortunately--this also
creates more tire heat.

Lyndon

----- Original Message -----
From: Romans, Mark <romans@starstream.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 10:48 PM
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control


> The newspaper article I read stated that the internal Ford Docs stated
> that Ford's own internal testing showed the Explorer wasn't very stable
> and that Ford decreased the tire pressure not for ride quality but to make
> the tires have less grip so it wouldn't roll as easily.  When the dropped
> the
> tire pressure it would pass Ford's own internal stability test, with the
> tire pressure
> raised it was not stable enough.
>
> That's why I would sell a jeep or other really capable off road vehicle
> before allowing
> my kids to drive it because by design what makes a vehicle capable off
road
> makes it less stable on road.
> (Narrow track, High CG).
> Mark
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 11 07:14:17 2001
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From: "Programmer" <nwester@eidnet.org>
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References: <3a5da8b7.23f.0@nni.com>
Subject: Re: The Math
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 08:14:07 -0700
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Isn't the link still on DIY ??

Lyndon
----- Original Message -----
From: <rrauscher@nni.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 5:36 AM
Subject: Re: The Math


>
> On incoming there is: miscmath.xls (or .zip). This has
> a bunch of calcs that Jason put together. Recently I was
> looking for Bowlings site, couldn't seem to find it.
>
> BobR.
>
>
> >I had a link to a site that had a bunch of calculators for converting
> >things (like 30 lb injectors to gm/sec, etc), I can not find it.  anyone
> >have such a source?
> >
> >thanks
> >
> >
> >--- Bob Wooten
> >--- r71chevy@earthlink.net
> >--- www.r71camaro.homestead.com
> >--- 71-91 RS Camaro
> >
> >
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 11 08:08:00 2001
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Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 11:07:52 -500
Subject: Re: The Math
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Yep, first one on the list at that!

BobR.

>Isn't the link still on DIY ??
>
>Lyndon
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <rrauscher@nni.com>
>To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 5:36 AM
>Subject: Re: The Math
>
>
>>
>> On incoming there is: miscmath.xls (or .zip). This has
>> a bunch of calcs that Jason put together. Recently I was
>> looking for Bowlings site, couldn't seem to find it.
>>
>> BobR.
>>
>>
>> >I had a link to a site that had a bunch of calculators for converting
>> >things (like 30 lb injectors to gm/sec, etc), I can not find it.  anyone

>> >have such a source?
>> >
>> >thanks
>> >
>> >
>> >--- Bob Wooten
>> >--- r71chevy@earthlink.net
>> >--- www.r71camaro.homestead.com
>> >--- 71-91 RS Camaro
>> >
>> >
>> --------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 11 08:42:12 2001
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From: romans@starstream.net (Romans, Mark)
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <868684.7.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us>
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 08:41:03 -0800
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I didn't write the document.  Granted most people are moron's.  (At least
about cars)
I suspect that we have a seriously below average number of automotive
moron's on this list due to it's
subject matter.  I wasn't implying any fault on anyone's part.  Crap like
this
taints the whole auto industry in the eyes of consumer activists.  I work
for GM,
I have done many "1241 Investigations"  (Alleged product liability
investigations"
Any idea how many times I found something wrong with the car (When an
accident
was involved?)
ZERO!
(Non accidents are another story in some cases!)
Mark

http://www.abcnews.go.com/sections/us/DailyNews/tiresfrd000820.html


I'd be interested to see that document.

Hmmm....that seems ag'nst all logic. Normally, you lower tire pressure for
traction and the result is also instability <g>. They had balance harmonics
in those things  that resulted in the inability to get the vibration out of
the chassis at 34 psi pressure. They found that lowered tire pressure took
out the vibes--and gave you a smooooth ride. Unfortunately--this also
creates more tire heat.

Lyndon


----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Williams" <dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 1:16 AM
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control


>
> -> The newspaper article I read stated that the internal Ford Docs
> -> stated that Ford's own internal testing showed the Explorer wasn't
> -> very stable and that Ford decreased the tire pressure not for ride
> -> quality but to make the tires have less grip so it wouldn't roll as
> -> easily.  When the dropped the
> -> tire pressure it would pass Ford's own internal stability test, with
> -> the tire pressure
> -> raised it was not stable enough.
>
>  Even allowing that story is true, so what?  It shows that Ford did test
> the vehicle, that they found a problem (surely they find problems with
> some regularity, or they wouldn't bother to test, would they?) and they
> came up with a fix for that problem.
>
>  There have been lots of cars very sensitive to tire pressure.  The
> Chrysler K-cars could easily be rolled over if the front tires were
> underinflated; there was even a big media flap over it.  Hell, I *saw*
> one do it once.  Before that, the Corvair used different tire pressures
> front and back.
>
>  Ford can't be held responsible for people driving around with under- or
> over- inflated tires, any more than they can be responsible for the same
> idiots hitting other cars or stationary objects.  Most drivers are
> absolute morons anyway.
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 11 08:45:45 2001
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From: romans@starstream.net (Romans, Mark)
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Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 08:44:39 -0800
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I have found that it doesn't always follow logic.  Spend some time
in a car with an EVA, Electronic Vibration Analysis tool and you'll see.
Lowering tire pressure in some cases makes a car not feel as smooth.
The eva will still show the same normal road vibration magnitude, however
raising the tire pressure raises the frequency so your buns don't feel it as
much.  (My experience on one type of vehicle).
Also if you read the Ford doc or any document that explains turning, not
drag strip racing, lower the tire pressure decreases the grip at the end
of the vehicle that the tire pressure is being lowered on.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Programmer" <nwester@eidnet.org>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 7:12 AM
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control


> Hmmm....that seems ag'nst all logic. Normally, you lower tire pressure for
> traction and the result is also instability <g>. They had balance
harmonics
> in those things  that resulted in the inability to get the vibration out
of
> the chassis at 34 psi pressure. They found that lowered tire pressure took
> out the vibes--and gave you a smooooth ride. Unfortunately--this also
> creates more tire heat.
>
> Lyndon
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Romans, Mark <romans@starstream.net>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 10:48 PM
> Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
>
>
> > The newspaper article I read stated that the internal Ford Docs stated
> > that Ford's own internal testing showed the Explorer wasn't very stable
> > and that Ford decreased the tire pressure not for ride quality but to
make
> > the tires have less grip so it wouldn't roll as easily.  When the
dropped
> > the
> > tire pressure it would pass Ford's own internal stability test, with the
> > tire pressure
> > raised it was not stable enough.
> >
> > That's why I would sell a jeep or other really capable off road vehicle
> > before allowing
> > my kids to drive it because by design what makes a vehicle capable off
> road
> > makes it less stable on road.
> > (Narrow track, High CG).
> > Mark
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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>
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 11 11:30:59 2001
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Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 12:00:24 -0700
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> I have found that it doesn't always follow logic.  Spend some time
> in a car with an EVA, Electronic Vibration Analysis tool and you'll see.

Wish I had an EVA...someday perhaps.

> Lowering tire pressure in some cases makes a car not feel as smooth.

The Ford TSB's refer to harshness--first step is lowering tire pressure.

> The eva will still show the same normal road vibration magnitude, however
> raising the tire pressure raises the frequency so your buns don't feel it
as
> much.  (My experience on one type of vehicle).

Yes--there's a change in frequency--sometimes it just raises the vibration
speed. Fords' fix is either an exhaust change or shock absorber change.
Found that rather interesting as I read further into the 4 door and 2 door
problem on the '91+ Explorer.

> Also if you read the Ford doc or any document that explains turning, not
> drag strip racing, lower the tire pressure decreases the grip at the end
> of the vehicle that the tire pressure is being lowered on.

Well--yeah...the tire face is distorted and deflected. The sidewall flexes
more than normal, and I can't see how the centre of gravity is better-I
guess I'd have to see their tests. I just find it strange. Thanks Mark !!

Lyndon.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Programmer" <nwester@eidnet.org>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 7:12 AM
> Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
>
>
> > Hmmm....that seems ag'nst all logic. Normally, you lower tire pressure
for
> > traction and the result is also instability <g>. They had balance
> harmonics
> > in those things  that resulted in the inability to get the vibration out
> of
> > the chassis at 34 psi pressure. They found that lowered tire pressure
took
> > out the vibes--and gave you a smooooth ride. Unfortunately--this also
> > creates more tire heat.
> >
> > Lyndon
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Romans, Mark <romans@starstream.net>
> > To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 10:48 PM
> > Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
> >
> >
> > > The newspaper article I read stated that the internal Ford Docs stated
> > > that Ford's own internal testing showed the Explorer wasn't very
stable
> > > and that Ford decreased the tire pressure not for ride quality but to
> make
> > > the tires have less grip so it wouldn't roll as easily.  When the
> dropped
> > > the
> > > tire pressure it would pass Ford's own internal stability test, with
the
> > > tire pressure
> > > raised it was not stable enough.
> > >
> > > That's why I would sell a jeep or other really capable off road
vehicle
> > > before allowing
> > > my kids to drive it because by design what makes a vehicle capable off
> > road
> > > makes it less stable on road.
> > > (Narrow track, High CG).
> > > Mark
> > >
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > --
> > > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> > quotes)
> > > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
> majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> > >
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
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> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 11 13:42:15 2001
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <868684.7.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us>
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
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>  There have been lots of cars very sensitive to tire pressure.  The
> Chrysler K-cars could easily be rolled over if the front tires were
> underinflated; there was even a big media flap over it.  Hell, I *saw*
> one do it once.  Before that, the Corvair used different tire pressures
> front and back.

K-Cars,  they make the SUVs look like sports cars.
What a poor idea those were.
I drove one once, and as soon as possible got the hell away from it.
Wonder how many people were killed in those just changing lanes.
Course does help with the Darwin effect
Bruce

>  Ford can't be held responsible for people driving around with under- or
> over- inflated tires, any more than they can be responsible for the same
> idiots hitting other cars or stationary objects.  Most drivers are
> absolute morons anyway.


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 11 15:09:11 2001
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From: Chris Wilson <chris@formula3.freeserve.co.uk>
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To: TVS <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Re: (Bit off topic) turbo lag...
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Wednesday, January 10, 2001, 12:09:50 AM, you wrote:


>   I know it's a bit of topic and  I know it's been discussed many times
> before (read the archives!) but I would appreciate some advice.
>   I'm planing on turbocharging a Hillman Imp engine (a 930cc SOHC) with a T3
> Garrett, which is bit on the large side for the engine. An intercooler would
> also be used. The boost will be electronically controlled to slightly
> increase and flatten the torque curve. This is to keep the head gasket in
> one piece, allow a high static CR to be used and increase the toque at high
> rpm to make as much power as possible. I'm hoping to allow the engine to
> usefully rev to 8,500 rpm.
<snip>

My experiences with the Imp engine is the head gasket, even the Reinz
one, is marginal under N/A conditions, the ONLY way you'll keep the seal
is to use Wills rings and an outer water/oil sealing gasket. These are
still relatively easily sourced here in the UK.

-- 
Best regards,
 Chris Wilson                           mailto:chris@formula3.freeserve.co.uk
                                       http://www.formula3.freeserve.co.uk


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 11 15:34:10 2001
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From: Guy Hammer <guyh@teleport.com>
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To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Bowlings (was Re: The Math)
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 15:00:43 -0800
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On Wed, 31 Dec 1969, rrauscher@nni.com writes:
> Recently I was looking for Bowlings site, couldn't seem to find it.

According to the note at bestintexas.com its been moved to:

http://www.bgsoflex.com/auto.html

However, that site appears to be down when I checked just now. DNS
resolves the url (216.147.28.49) but ping fails.
--
Guy Hammer, guyh@teleport.com
http://www.teleport.com/~guyh
--
  3:00pm  up 4 days, 19:09,  4 users,  load average: 1.02, 1.06, 1.02
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 11 15:39:24 2001
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Subject: Re: (Bit off topic) turbo lag...
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What's a Wills ring?

Walt.



>
> My experiences with the Imp engine is the head gasket, even the Reinz
> one, is marginal under N/A conditions, the ONLY way you'll keep the seal
> is to use Wills rings and an outer water/oil sealing gasket. These are
> still relatively easily sourced here in the UK.
>
> --
> Best regards,
>  Chris Wilson
mailto:chris@formula3.freeserve.co.uk
>                                        http://www.formula3.freeserve.co.uk
>
>


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 11 16:49:00 2001
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Friday, January 12, 2001, 2:40:24 AM, you wrote:


> What's a Wills ring?

> Walt.

Inert gas filled hollow ring set in a machined circumferential groove
around the liners. Usually a stainless steel ring. This ring provides
the combustion gas seal, a soft gasket around the head to block mating
seals oil and water ways. A plain round section wire ring is more
common, the Wills ring is better, but a lot more expensive. Wills rings
have been used in the UK on Imp engines for decades.

-- 
Best regards,
 Chris Wilson                           mailto:chris@formula3.freeserve.co.uk
                                       http://www.formula3.freeserve.co.uk


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 11 18:28:54 2001
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From: "Robert Ward" <rawardsr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Turbo manifold design.
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 21:28:16 -0500
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Jorgen, it's my understanding that "any" header design that uses a single 
thick flange the length of the head will seal better and stay flatter across 
its length than an individual runner/flange header design. Yours, Robert 
Ward


>From: Jörgen Karlsson <jurg@pp.sbbs.se>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: Turbo manifold design.
>Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2001 08:04:32 +0100
>
>Hi!
>
>I am sorry for wasting the bandwidh, but I know many of you guys know a lot
>about this subject.
>
>I have built a new manifold for my car, the stock manifolds are no good.
>They crack and snap the header studs. The stock manifold has separate
>flanges for each runner.
>
>Should I use separate flanges or should I use one large flange?
>
>The flange will only be in contact with the head on a small surface around
>the ports.
>
>Jörgen Karlsson
>Gothenburg, Sweden
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jan 11 20:23:20 2001
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From: "Donna Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Bowlings (was Re: The Math)
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 20:26:24 -0800
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thank you gents.  I could not find any link to anything that said bowlings
except for one in the oem systems & parts => bosch systems => lots of bosch
stuff => miscellaneous => bowling calcs, but this link did not work.  the
one that Guy provided below did work & it is different than the one that is
on the page above (it is http://sural.jlaburg/~grippo/auto_noframe.html).  

anywho, thanks again.  both the spread shee & what is @ the bowling &
grippo site is what i am looking for.  

Bob Wooten



> [Original Message]
> From: Guy Hammer <guyh@teleport.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Date: 1/11/01 3:35:48 PM
> Subject: Bowlings (was Re: The Math)
>
> On Wed, 31 Dec 1969, rrauscher@nni.com writes:
> > Recently I was looking for Bowlings site, couldn't seem to find it.
> 
> According to the note at bestintexas.com its been moved to:
> 
> http://www.bgsoflex.com/auto.html 
> 
> However, that site appears to be down when I checked just now. DNS
> resolves the url (216.147.28.49) but ping fails.
> --
> Guy Hammer, guyh@teleport.com
> http://www.teleport.com/~guyh
> --
>   3:00pm  up 4 days, 19:09,  4 users,  load average: 1.02, 1.06, 1.02
>
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> 



--- Donna Wooten
--- r71chevy@earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.


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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 12 01:55:26 2001
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From: "Nicholas Parker" <nrparker@ihug.co.nz>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: MAP and TPS  LOAD based EFI
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 22:55:44 +1300
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Hi,
       How are TPS & MAP combined to form the 'LOAD" estimating variable in
some EFI systems?   Does this techinque only apply to cars where the
camshafts have overlap resulting in low vacuum (as in closer to atmospheric
pressure than absolute vacuum!) at low engine speeds?  What is a good way of
implementing this kind of control?  How do you implement this when you have
a 3d RPM vs MAP table for you basic fuel 'calculation' ? Why would you want
as well I guess!?

Cheers, Nick Parker.

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 12 02:32:38 2001
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From: "Murphy, Ian" <Ian.Murphy@Arrows.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: MAP and TPS  LOAD based EFI
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 10:30:01 -0000
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'LOAD' is usually calculated using values for such parameters as volumetric
efficiency tables, manifold filling models, engine acceleration, even gear
ratios. For example LOAD would be greater if you're dragging a trailer up a
hill at 3000rpm 3rd gear WOT 100kPa MAP, than for passing through 3000rpm in
1st gear WOT 100kPa MAP as you leave the traffic lights.

A 3d RPM vs MAP table is just that - TPS or LOAD don't come into it, so
strictly speaking you can't use it to implement a LOAD based fuelling calc.
All you are doing is estimating an 'AIR CHARGE' value based on RPM and air
density, then looking up a fuel pulse width to get your desired AFR. The
true air charge depends primarily on inlet manifold dynamics and charge
temperature, with other secondary factors.

Mapping on a dyno / rolling road should get you 95% of the way there, and
you could try getting data on the volumetric efficiency of your engine if
you need to calculate some base values for your map.

Hope this helps...

Ian

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Nicholas Parker [SMTP:nrparker@ihug.co.nz]
> Sent:	Friday, January 12, 2001 9:56 AM
> To:	diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject:	MAP and TPS  LOAD based EFI
> 
> Hi,
>        How are TPS & MAP combined to form the 'LOAD" estimating variable
> in
> some EFI systems?   Does this techinque only apply to cars where the
> camshafts have overlap resulting in low vacuum (as in closer to
> atmospheric
> pressure than absolute vacuum!) at low engine speeds?  What is a good way
> of
> implementing this kind of control?  How do you implement this when you
> have
> a 3d RPM vs MAP table for you basic fuel 'calculation' ? Why would you
> want
> as well I guess!?
> 
> Cheers, Nick Parker.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> quotes)
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From: Jeroen Proveniers <J.Proveniers@orga.nl>
To: "'DIY EFI'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: advantages of electronic throttle
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 15:58:46 +0100
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As the subject says...

JJ
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 12 09:08:54 2001
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Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 07:43:08 -0800
From: John Edward Miller <jem@milleredp.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
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> Normally, you lower tire pressure for traction

</LURK

Not cornering traction, not on street tires.  Best grip ~40-46psi in most 
cases.

John.

<LURK>
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 12 09:08:57 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: MAP and TPS  LOAD based EFI
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 11:17:06 -0500
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Load IS MAP.  they're interchangable.  At least as far as most
controllers care.

-----Original Message-----
From: Murphy, Ian [mailto:Ian.Murphy@Arrows.com]
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 5:30 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: MAP and TPS LOAD based EFI


'LOAD' is usually calculated using values for such parameters as volumetric
efficiency tables, manifold filling models, engine acceleration, even gear
ratios. For example LOAD would be greater if you're dragging a trailer up a
hill at 3000rpm 3rd gear WOT 100kPa MAP, than for passing through 3000rpm in
1st gear WOT 100kPa MAP as you leave the traffic lights.

A 3d RPM vs MAP table is just that - TPS or LOAD don't come into it, so
strictly speaking you can't use it to implement a LOAD based fuelling calc.
All you are doing is estimating an 'AIR CHARGE' value based on RPM and air
density, then looking up a fuel pulse width to get your desired AFR. The
true air charge depends primarily on inlet manifold dynamics and charge
temperature, with other secondary factors.

Mapping on a dyno / rolling road should get you 95% of the way there, and
you could try getting data on the volumetric efficiency of your engine if
you need to calculate some base values for your map.

Hope this helps...

Ian

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Nicholas Parker [SMTP:nrparker@ihug.co.nz]
> Sent:	Friday, January 12, 2001 9:56 AM
> To:	diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject:	MAP and TPS  LOAD based EFI
> 
> Hi,
>        How are TPS & MAP combined to form the 'LOAD" estimating variable
> in
> some EFI systems?   Does this techinque only apply to cars where the
> camshafts have overlap resulting in low vacuum (as in closer to
> atmospheric
> pressure than absolute vacuum!) at low engine speeds?  What is a good way
> of
> implementing this kind of control?  How do you implement this when you
> have
> a 3d RPM vs MAP table for you basic fuel 'calculation' ? Why would you
> want
> as well I guess!?
> 
> Cheers, Nick Parker.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 12 10:16:02 2001
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Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 13:15:07 -0500 (EST)
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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 depends on the car, the tire, and the rim size. In most of the cars I've driven 40 psi wont let the outside edges of the tire contact the road. For example at 36 psi 215/70/15 tires on a 92 tracker 2 door only the center inch was touching the road ( measured using the puddle method) and the car was scary. On a 87 Subaru 4dr 4x4 sedan 36 psi gave about the same contact patch.

 The best tire pressure is a trade off between wear, and traction, and ride. The tire maker sets a pressure that makes the tire last longer on the test stand, to automakers give the pressure for best economy with handling factored in as small
part.

 The only solid rule I've found is that you have to test.

Previously, you (John Edward Miller) wrote:
{ > Normally, you lower tire pressure for traction
{ 
{ </LURK
{ 
{ Not cornering traction, not on street tires.  Best grip ~40-46psi in most 
{ cases.
{ 
{ John.
{ 
{ <LURK>
{ ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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{ 

--
Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 12 10:54:12 2001
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That covers it in my book to
Bruce


>  The only solid rule I've found is that you have to test.


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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 12 11:16:55 2001
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Subject: Re: MAP and TPS  LOAD based EFI
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You mean like the Electromotive Blend software?

I believe it only applies to vehicles that don't produce much vacuum at low
RPMs.  I have this setup on my Vette, when not applied the MAP reading is very
high and unstable in the low RPMs.  When I apply the TPS blending, which tapers
off as the RPMs rise, the KPA value lowers to a more "normal" level and smooths
out dramatically.  What it is actually doing is just averaging a percentage of
the voltage from the TPS with the MAP to fake the ECM into thinking it's getting
a stable signal from the MAP, so it shouldn't interfere with your 3d table, as
the signal appears to only be coming from the MAP.

Gabe

Nicholas Parker wrote:

> Hi,
>        How are TPS & MAP combined to form the 'LOAD" estimating variable in
> some EFI systems?   Does this techinque only apply to cars where the
> camshafts have overlap resulting in low vacuum (as in closer to atmospheric
> pressure than absolute vacuum!) at low engine speeds?  What is a good way of
> implementing this kind of control?  How do you implement this when you have
> a 3d RPM vs MAP table for you basic fuel 'calculation' ? Why would you want
> as well I guess!?
>
> Cheers, Nick Parker.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 12 11:17:21 2001
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Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 13:07:49 -0500 (EST)
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
Subject: Re: advantages of electronic throttle
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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 Very few for skilled drivers, BUT lets future darwin nominees drive faster cars??

Previously, you (Jeroen Proveniers) wrote:
{ As the subject says...
{ 
{ JJ
{ ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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{ 

--
Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 12 11:49:27 2001
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From: Eric Bryant <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: off topic / traction control
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 14:49:52 -0500
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> From: John Edward Miller [mailto:jem@milleredp.com]
> Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
> 
> 
> > Normally, you lower tire pressure for traction
> 
> </LURK
> 
> Not cornering traction, not on street tires.  Best grip 
> ~40-46psi in most 
> cases.
> 
> John.


Are we talking strip or roadcourse use?  There's a difference in which
direction you go, and I'd hope that everyone here can figure that one out.  

For what it's worth, my '96 Impala likes about 48 psi up front for autocross
use.  Even at that pressure, I can still get the first 1" or so of sidewall
to scrub if I'm really pushing it.

Back to your regularly-scheduled EFI...

Eric Bryant
mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
http://www.novagate.com/~bryante 
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 12 13:33:50 2001
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Thankyou--at least there's another racer out there <g>...

EFI content--anyone converted a 2.8V6 TBI to 4.3 lately ??

Lyndon.
----- Original Message -----
From: Eric Bryant <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 12:49 PM
Subject: RE: off topic / traction control


> > From: John Edward Miller [mailto:jem@milleredp.com]
> > Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
> >
> >
> > > Normally, you lower tire pressure for traction
> >
> > </LURK
> >
> > Not cornering traction, not on street tires.  Best grip
> > ~40-46psi in most
> > cases.
> >
> > John.
>
>
> Are we talking strip or roadcourse use?  There's a difference in which
> direction you go, and I'd hope that everyone here can figure that one out.
>
> For what it's worth, my '96 Impala likes about 48 psi up front for
autocross
> use.  Even at that pressure, I can still get the first 1" or so of
sidewall
> to scrub if I'm really pushing it.
>
> Back to your regularly-scheduled EFI...
>
> Eric Bryant
> mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
> http://www.novagate.com/~bryante
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 12 14:21:32 2001
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Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 17:21:25 -0500
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: "den Broeder, Ernst" <edenbroe@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
In-Reply-To: <007101c07cdf$53135120$5e69bfce@oemcomputer>
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Which part?  I've upgraded my 2.8tbi to a 4.3tbi 1227747 controller...  is 
that what you are referring to?

Ernst

At 02:33 PM 1/12/01 -0700, you wrote:
>Thankyou--at least there's another racer out there <g>...
>
>EFI content--anyone converted a 2.8V6 TBI to 4.3 lately ??
>
>Lyndon.

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 12 15:45:41 2001
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From: "Chris Capowski" <c.capowski@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <E02BB40176A5D41189BF00805FA65C97186717@DINO>
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 18:48:17 -0500
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> Are we talking strip or roadcourse use?  There's a difference in which
> direction you go, and I'd hope that everyone here can figure that one out.
>
> For what it's worth, my '96 Impala likes about 48 psi up front for
autocross
> use.  Even at that pressure, I can still get the first 1" or so of
sidewall
> to scrub if I'm really pushing it.
> Eric Bryant

I hate to beat a dead horse here, but there are two different issues here.
Increasing tire pressure to make up for poor suspension set up (not enough
camber/caster/toe) and tire pressure changes when the suspension is set up
properly.  If the suspension is not properly set up for cornering (which is
what I suspect for everyone using really high pressures (above 40#)) you
increase the pressure to reduce the amount of tire roll over.  In this case,
pretty much the higher the better, even though your contact patch is getting
smaller and smaller.  If the suspesnion is set up properly so that the
contact patch is level at full cornering g's, then generally the LOWER the
pressure the more traction you have, up until the contact patch gets really
distorted under load which causes excess heat and the tire overheats.  The
lower the pressure the larger the contact patch and the higher the pressure
the smaller the contact patch.

To give some data points of my own:

89 Civic Si tire pressure for best cornering g's:
street tires, stock suspension  42f/38r
street tires, adj camber, stiff suspension  28f/28r (factory recommended
pressures by the way)
race slicks, adj camber, really stiff suspension 18f/25r

Chris "Mighty Mouse" Capowski




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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 12 16:18:19 2001
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@home.com>
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Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
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Right on!........

Not to pick on anybody in particular, but, a good example was when Chevy/GMC
truck decided to first install   B.F. Goodrich 275/60/R15 HR4 tires on a
15"x7" rim assembly, in 1990,  as part of their C1500 ZQ8 truck performance
suspension package.  The intention was good, but, what were they smoking at
the time?  At highway speeds, from behind, you could see daylight between
the shoulders and the pavement.  I've got a set of these where the center's
are worn to the limit while the shoulders still have the "nubbins" pretty
much intact.  Dozens of other ZQ8 contacts have had the same experiences.
How much handling do you think a person has with 2-3" contact patch width at
the rear at speed?  Even B.F.G. themselves do not advocate this combo in the
aftermarket world.

Real world performance all comes down to what exact tire you have, on what
exact rim, under specific conditions,  and under specific inflation
pressures.  Test, Test, Test, and then reTest, just to make sure.


Walt.




> depends on the car, the tire, and the rim size. In most of the cars I've
driven 40 psi wont let the outside edges of the tire contact the road. For
example at 36 psi 215/70/15 tires on a 92 tracker 2 door only the center
inch was touching the road ( measured using the puddle method) and the car
was scary. On a 87 Subaru 4dr 4x4 sedan 36 psi gave about the same contact
patch.
>
>  The best tire pressure is a trade off between wear, and traction, and
ride. The tire maker sets a pressure that makes the tire last longer on the
test stand, to automakers give the pressure for best economy with handling
factored in as small
> part.
>
>  The only solid rule I've found is that you have to test.
>
> Previously, you (John Edward Miller) wrote:
> { > Normally, you lower tire pressure for traction
> {
> { </LURK
> {
> { Not cornering traction, not on street tires.  Best grip ~40-46psi in
most
> { cases.
> {
> { John.
> {
> { <LURK>
>
{ --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--


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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 12 16:27:00 2001
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Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 10:19 PM
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control


> Right on!........
>
> Not to pick on anybody in particular, but, a good example was when
Chevy/GMC
> truck decided to first install   B.F. Goodrich 275/60/R15 HR4 tires on a
> 15"x7" rim assembly, in 1990,  as part of their C1500 ZQ8 truck
performance
> suspension package.  The intention was good, but, what were they smoking
at
> the time?  At highway speeds, from behind, you could see daylight between
> the shoulders and the pavement.  I've got a set of these where the
center's
> are worn to the limit while the shoulders still have the "nubbins" pretty
> much intact.  Dozens of other ZQ8 contacts have had the same experiences.
> How much handling do you think a person has with 2-3" contact patch width
at
> the rear at speed?  Even B.F.G. themselves do not advocate this combo in
the
> aftermarket world.
>
> Real world performance all comes down to what exact tire you have, on what
> exact rim, under specific conditions,  and under specific inflation
> pressures.  Test, Test, Test, and then reTest, just to make sure.
>
>
> Walt.
>
>
>
>
> > depends on the car, the tire, and the rim size. In most of the cars I've
> driven 40 psi wont let the outside edges of the tire contact the road. For
> example at 36 psi 215/70/15 tires on a 92 tracker 2 door only the center
> inch was touching the road ( measured using the puddle method) and the car
> was scary. On a 87 Subaru 4dr 4x4 sedan 36 psi gave about the same contact
> patch.
> >
> >  The best tire pressure is a trade off between wear, and traction, and
> ride. The tire maker sets a pressure that makes the tire last longer on
the
> test stand, to automakers give the pressure for best economy with handling
> factored in as small
> > part.
> >
> >  The only solid rule I've found is that you have to test.
> >
> > Previously, you (John Edward Miller) wrote:
> > { > Normally, you lower tire pressure for traction
> > {
> > { </LURK
> > {
> > { Not cornering traction, not on street tires.  Best grip ~40-46psi in
> most
> > { cases.
> > {
> > { John.
> > {
> > { <LURK>
> >
>
{ --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 12 16:31:47 2001
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Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
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Last submitted posting (from this location)  was by Doc, oops

Everything about anything to do with anything is about testing.
Mileage, ET, trap speed, areo loading, engine combs, it all changes.
And the secret to that is notes.
Anyway
Amen
Bruce
   Did I say the GN did a calc'd 301 Ft/lbs of torque at 3,900 rpm ealier
today (at 15 PSI).



> Right on!........
>
> Not to pick on anybody in particular, but, a good example was when
Chevy/GMC
> truck decided to first install   B.F. Goodrich 275/60/R15 HR4 tires on a
> 15"x7" rim assembly, in 1990,  as part of their C1500 ZQ8 truck
performance
> suspension package.  The intention was good, but, what were they smoking
at
> the time?  At highway speeds, from behind, you could see daylight between
> the shoulders and the pavement.  I've got a set of these where the
center's
> are worn to the limit while the shoulders still have the "nubbins" pretty
> much intact.  Dozens of other ZQ8 contacts have had the same experiences.
> How much handling do you think a person has with 2-3" contact patch width
at
> the rear at speed?  Even B.F.G. themselves do not advocate this combo in
the
> aftermarket world.
>
> Real world performance all comes down to what exact tire you have, on what
> exact rim, under specific conditions,  and under specific inflation
> pressures.  Test, Test, Test, and then reTest, just to make sure.
> Walt.
> > depends on the car, the tire, and the rim size. In most of the cars I've
> driven 40 psi wont let the outside edges of the tire contact the road. For
> example at 36 psi 215/70/15 tires on a 92 tracker 2 door only the center
> inch was touching the road ( measured using the puddle method) and the car
> was scary. On a 87 Subaru 4dr 4x4 sedan 36 psi gave about the same contact
> patch.
> >  The best tire pressure is a trade off between wear, and traction, and
> ride. The tire maker sets a pressure that makes the tire last longer on
the
> test stand, to automakers give the pressure for best economy with handling
> factored in as small
> > part.


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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 12 16:35:45 2001
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From: dennis <spoolboy@autospeed.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: advantages of electronic throttle
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There are a few minor advantages.

This is what I gather....

For naturally aspirated stuff, they can make the engine more "responsive" ie, change the opening rate of the throttle depending on what "mode" you select, or what "mood" you are in. 

For turbo stuff, it seems that there are more advantages, the ecm can "anticipate" when you want boost and help to spool the turbo sooner. Boost and torque can be more linear and controllable, and I think there are some things that they can do with anti-lag.

For all applications they can use throttle opening as part of a traction control/vehicle control scheme.

It all seems like just more stuff to break to me.
What happens when the little stepper motor on the throttle screws up? Or when the pedal sensor shorts out?

Dennis

--- Jeroen Proveniers <J.Proveniers@orga.nl>
> wrote:
>As the subject says...
>
>JJ
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_____________________________________________________________
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Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 16:59:48 -0700
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Just wondering how you made out with the fuel tables...Moreso looking for
someone that did use the stock 2.8V6 computer and made the necessary table
changes for a 4.3L V6

Lyndon.
----- Original Message -----
From: den Broeder, Ernst <edenbroe@cisco.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 3:21 PM
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control


> Which part?  I've upgraded my 2.8tbi to a 4.3tbi 1227747 controller...  is
> that what you are referring to?
>
> Ernst
>
> At 02:33 PM 1/12/01 -0700, you wrote:
> >Thankyou--at least there's another racer out there <g>...
> >
> >EFI content--anyone converted a 2.8V6 TBI to 4.3 lately ??
> >
> >Lyndon.
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 12 19:42:07 2001
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Subject: Re: advantages of electronic throttle
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 04:41:24 +0100
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> There are a few minor advantages.
>
> This is what I gather....
>
> For naturally aspirated stuff, they can make the engine more "responsive"
ie, change the opening rate of the throttle depending on what "mode" you
select, or what "mood" you are in.
>
> For turbo stuff, it seems that there are more advantages, the ecm can
"anticipate" when you want boost and help to spool the turbo sooner. Boost
and torque can be more linear and controllable, and I think there are some
things that they can do with anti-lag.
>
> For all applications they can use throttle opening as part of a traction
control/vehicle control scheme.
>
> It all seems like just more stuff to break to me.
> What happens when the little stepper motor on the throttle screws up? Or
when the pedal sensor shorts out?

According to Bosch, the throttle rest at a default position (two springs
defines that position) and the engine management system enters a limp home
mode with "reduced comfort" (dixit!)

Aslo, I've read in a SAE paper that some people tried to have the pedal
conceptually control the fuel delivery, and the ECM would then provide the
required air using a servo-controlled throttle. Kind of inside out, sort of.



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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jan 12 20:49:27 2001
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From: "Jurgen Hartwig" <jhartwig@midsouth.rr.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Smartcoils & other ignition questions
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 22:51:04 -0600
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I recently purchased an aftermarket engine management setup.  I am now
searching for the pieces to get it running.  I have gotten enough info
regarding the sensors, and now am ironing out the ignition and triggering.

I had originally planned on using waste spark coils fired by separate
ignition modules or igniters, rather.  I eventually realized I could not
use the GM or Ford ignition modules, since I just need a dumb module or
igniter (no crank or cam input).  I searched through the archives and
found posts about the GM "Smartcoils," which have the igniter onboard with
the single coils.  On top of that, they are relatively inexpensive.  Has
anyone used them with aftermarket or any other custom setup?  The archives
only went up to '99, and the coils were only introduced on '99- model year
autos.

I searched Autozone's online catalog and found the '99 Camaro is one of
the models using the single coils.  I suppose they are the Direct Ignition
coils I am looking for.  $35.99.  I may check my junkyard and see if I can
get a batch for cheap.

Barring use of the 'Smartcoil', which appears to be my best and cheapest
option, I will just use a plain vanilla coilpack and separate ignition
modules.  To those who have done this before, can you give me your
thoughts and information?

Regards,
Jay

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan 13 06:24:32 2001
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From: Charles <charlesmorris@erols.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Wills rings
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 09:24:54 -0500
Message-ID: <53p06t0u4vpi1n6vpn6f6p01e861gm4n8i@4ax.com>
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On Fri, 12 Jan 2001 01:00:12 -0800, you wrote:

>> What's a Wills ring?
>
>Inert gas filled hollow ring set in a machined circumferential groove
>around the liners. Usually a stainless steel ring. This ring provides
>the combustion gas seal, a soft gasket around the head to block mating
>seals oil and water ways. A plain round section wire ring is more
>common, the Wills ring is better, but a lot more expensive

	You aren't kidding... my BMW 745i (factory turbo) uses
these rings to seal the cast iron exhaust manifold to the
alloy head, and a large one between the turbo and the
manifold flange. They have been extremely reliable despite
increased (15 psi) boost and short term exhaust temps of
1650 F. Unfortunately the head gasket does not use them and
I blew one while tuning at high boost (pinged a few too many
times).
	But the complete teardown gasket set is about $350
whereas the non-turbo set is $100 (and they are virtually
identical otherwise).
-Charles


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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan 13 09:51:06 2001
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Subject: Re: Smartcoils & other ignition questions
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> Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 22:51:04 -0600
> From: "Jurgen Hartwig" <jhartwig@midsouth.rr.com>
> Subject: Smartcoils & other ignition questions

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "smartcoils". I'm familiar with a
setup for the GM V6 that has the module with three wasted spark coils
bolted directly on top of it. The latest LS-1 V8 has one coil per plug,
with the coil mounted directly at the spark plug. These are not wasted
spark, however, requiring eight coils and coil drivers.

I used 4 of the GM-style wasted spark coils, but I purchased them from
Jacobs, as they are lower impedance (.6 ohm) and generate more voltage
across the secondary than the GM units. Then, I drove them with a "dumb"
four channel CD box from Autronics, which has a user-selectable
390V/450V primary setting. 4 inputs, 4 outputs, the computer handles the
timing. It generates a very hot, accurate spark.

You can buy 4 channel CD boxes from MSD (I don't think they drive low
impedance coils well), Jacobs Electronics, and Autronics. I think Crane
may also make one, by now.

- Clay

> I recently purchased an aftermarket engine management setup.  I am now
> searching for the pieces to get it running.  I have gotten enough info
> regarding the sensors, and now am ironing out the ignition and triggering.
> 
> I had originally planned on using waste spark coils fired by separate
> ignition modules or igniters, rather.  I eventually realized I could not
> use the GM or Ford ignition modules, since I just need a dumb module or
> igniter (no crank or cam input).  I searched through the archives and
> found posts about the GM "Smartcoils," which have the igniter onboard with
> the single coils.  On top of that, they are relatively inexpensive.  Has
> anyone used them with aftermarket or any other custom setup?  The archives
> only went up to '99, and the coils were only introduced on '99- model year
> autos.
> 
> I searched Autozone's online catalog and found the '99 Camaro is one of
> the models using the single coils.  I suppose they are the Direct Ignition
> coils I am looking for.  $35.99.  I may check my junkyard and see if I can
> get a batch for cheap.
> 
> Barring use of the 'Smartcoil', which appears to be my best and cheapest
> option, I will just use a plain vanilla coilpack and separate ignition
> modules.  To those who have done this before, can you give me your
> thoughts and information?
> 
> Regards,
> Jay
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan 13 09:57:48 2001
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Subject: Re: (Bit off topic) turbo lag...
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 17:56:18 -0000
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> My experiences with the Imp engine is the head gasket, even the Reinz
> one, is marginal under N/A conditions, the ONLY way you'll keep the seal
> is to use Wills rings and an outer water/oil sealing gasket. These are
> still relatively easily sourced here in the UK.

Yes, but aren't they about £80 a set? I've heard that a machined ring in the
head above the thicker part of the gasket helps... this was what I was
planing to do as well as increase the torque to 40ftlbs. Can't really afford
to go to a wet liner yet... I think a 998 is about £450. One day perhaps, or
may be a 1040 ;-) Thanks, Toby

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan 13 11:18:42 2001
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Subject: Re: Smartcoils & other ignition questions
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> I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "smartcoils". I'm familiar with a
> setup for the GM V6 that has the module with three wasted spark coils
> bolted directly on top of it. The latest LS-1 V8 has one coil per plug,
> with the coil mounted directly at the spark plug. These are not wasted
> spark, however, requiring eight coils and coil drivers.

Here's an excerpt of a past post, dated 29 May 1998, by Gar:

>>>>>
Oh Man, you don't know the half of it!! A guy in our Aviation group that
works in a GM lab sent me one of these off a decommissioned test
vehicle, and they are NOT mere IGN coils, they're complete single-coil
IGN "systems". They contain ALL the electronics for dwell control,
current limiting, etc etc. These coils are DIRECTLY run from the
ECM/PCM. There is NO module. They have 4 terminals (plus the HV
terminal, that uses these ratchet style terminals I was tellin bout
yesterday), two for Bat Gnd, and Bat +12V, and the other two are the
digital EST signal and it's low-noise gnd return. Not usable for ION as
a transformer-type coil, cuz you cain't get to either the primary or
secondary on these puppies, but still a VERY elegant setup, indeed.
That ain't all. The biggest shock is yet to come. Brace yerself. They're
actually CHEAP (and nice and light, too). I couldn't believe it when I
went to check them out further. The GM parts counter LIST price is $41
for each "smart coil", and EVEN the harness for tying four of them
together is reasonable, list price of $62. You get 4 connectors for the
4 coils, and another larger connector. Not a bad price for 4 GM
connectors and pigtails (if you decided you couldn't use the harness as
is), at the very least, and you might even be able to get the bigger
connector from Packard! The shorty coil wires (yes, these DON'T squat
ontop the coils) have them real nice connectors I mentioned, and they as
well are pretty reasonable, at $11 ea list. My GM pal who must remain
anonymous says you'll see these exact same LS-1 smartCoils appearing on
all the big block truck and bus engines next year! That's what my
samples came off of, NOT LS-1 engines. Heh.
>>>>>>

The ones I looked up for the Camaro do indeed have spark plug wires, so
they are not coil on spark plug.  Additionally, since these have igniters
onboard, there is no need for any boxes.  What I am trying to determine is
if my Wolf 3D setup will directly drive two "smart coils" in waste spark
fashion.  The Wolf system cannot do direct ignition, which really isn't a
big deal for me having only a 4 cylinder engine.  I need to wait until
after the holiday to get in touch with Wolf EMS.  I just wanted to throw
out an email to see if anyone has any direct experience with these coils.

My second option is to use dual post coils and igniters from an RX-7.
They are roughly $30-50US each used and have igniters beneath each coil.

With either setup, I'm not looking at more than $150, and in my opinion,
this package is relatively inexpensive upgrade to simple waste spark
ignition.

To anyone who cares, I picked up my Wolf 3D setup for $645US used, and it
uses plain vanilla GM sensors and can be triggered by a simple Ford Escort
magnetic sensor ($18 from NAPA).  With some creativity, I'll keep costs
below $1000, and be able to go with forced induction in the near future.
I just don't have the brute knowledge to cobble together a GM setup, so I
had to trade money for knowledge.

Regards,
Jay

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan 13 12:57:02 2001
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Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 15:56:54 -0500
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From: "den Broeder, Ernst" <edenbroe@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
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I adjusted the BPW until the 2.8L ran half decent and then tuned the rest 
of the tables from there in.

Why not use the 4.3 ECM for the 4.3?  I made no harness changes when I 
replaced the '7429 with the '7747.

Ernst


At 04:59 PM 1/12/01 -0700, you wrote:
>Just wondering how you made out with the fuel tables...Moreso looking for
>someone that did use the stock 2.8V6 computer and made the necessary table
>changes for a 4.3L V6
>
>Lyndon.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: den Broeder, Ernst <edenbroe@cisco.com>
>To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 3:21 PM
>Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
>
>
> > Which part?  I've upgraded my 2.8tbi to a 4.3tbi 1227747 controller...  is
> > that what you are referring to?
> >
> > Ernst
> >
> > At 02:33 PM 1/12/01 -0700, you wrote:
> > >Thankyou--at least there's another racer out there <g>...
> > >
> > >EFI content--anyone converted a 2.8V6 TBI to 4.3 lately ??
> > >
> > >Lyndon.
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan 13 14:27:03 2001
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From: "alexpeper" <alexpeper@email.msn.com>
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References: <200101130900.BAA09127@hektor.valesh.com>
Subject: Re: MAP and TPS  LOAD based EFI
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 16:18:29 -0600
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SAE defines percent calculated load value as current airflow divided by max. possible ariflow.
corrected to standard pressure if available.  This value is required for all cars sold in US year 1996 and after.
Alex



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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan 13 15:49:40 2001
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From: "Programmer" <nwester@eidnet.org>
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Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 2001 16:49:46 -0700
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Never looked at the pinouts--didn't realize they were pin for pin
matched...<g>.

Lyndon

----- Original Message -----
From: den Broeder, Ernst <edenbroe@cisco.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2001 1:56 PM
Subject: Re: off topic / traction control


> I adjusted the BPW until the 2.8L ran half decent and then tuned the rest
> of the tables from there in.
>
> Why not use the 4.3 ECM for the 4.3?  I made no harness changes when I
> replaced the '7429 with the '7747.
>
> Ernst
>
>
> At 04:59 PM 1/12/01 -0700, you wrote:
> >Just wondering how you made out with the fuel tables...Moreso looking for
> >someone that did use the stock 2.8V6 computer and made the necessary
table
> >changes for a 4.3L V6
> >
> >Lyndon.
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: den Broeder, Ernst <edenbroe@cisco.com>
> >To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> >Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 3:21 PM
> >Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
> >
> >
> > > Which part?  I've upgraded my 2.8tbi to a 4.3tbi 1227747 controller...
is
> > > that what you are referring to?
> > >
> > > Ernst
> > >
> > > At 02:33 PM 1/12/01 -0700, you wrote:
> > > >Thankyou--at least there's another racer out there <g>...
> > > >
> > > >EFI content--anyone converted a 2.8V6 TBI to 4.3 lately ??
> > > >
> > > >Lyndon.
> > >
> >
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> > >
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jan 13 15:57:44 2001
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Subject: Re: off topic / traction control
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