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From: James Montebello <jamesm@lapuwali.com>
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Subject: Re: MAFs
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Not just oil from the PCV, but oil from the turbo itself...

I'd never even considered using a blow-through airflow meter
configuration.  I suppose it would somewhat simplify the system, but it
seems you're trading off a set of cheap, robust sensors (MAP, crank angle,
and air temp) for a fragile, expensive one (MAF).

james montebello

On Mon, 5 Feb 2001, Matt Henson wrote:

> I'm trying to see the difference in intake air
> behavior between a turbo and NA car.  The speed of the
> air can cause turbulence but this should be the same
> regardless of the aspiration.  One must choose an
> appropriatly sized pipe for the flow of the system.  I
> suppose that the compressor could do something to
> swirl(?) the incoming (and certainly the outgoing) air
> but if we're talking about a significant distance
> between the MAF and compressor then it shouldn't
> matter, should it? 
> 
> How does the IC affect the desirability of using blow
> through vs pull-through?  The IC's effect on the air
> mass should be measured either way, no? I've
> considered going blow through but decided that the
> life of the MAF would be reduced due to the oil in the
> system.  I spoke with Corky Bell about this and he
> found that his blow through MAFs only last around 10k
> miles before the oil kills them.  If you can
> effectively prevent the PCV from introducing the oil
> mist into the intake then it should help with the MAF
> life.
> 
> Regards,
> Matt
> 
> 
> --- Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > OK. what makes you think that?.
> > Maybe if the air column was inertia free,
> > First thought of mine is well look at a bath tub
> > drain.   Vortecs big time,
> > just to get the water thru.  Air acts just like
> > water, only far less dense.
> >   Specifically they were blow thrus,  but if that
> > bad blow thru, I can image
> > problems either way.
> > I've been going thru this in some detail,  luckily
> > my car has an Intercooler
> > so by locating the MAF between that and the TB just
> > makes sense, least to
> > me, and so far things are acting totally as
> > expected.
> > Bruce
> > 
> 
> 
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  5 12:48:42 2001
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: MAFs
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 15:48:46 -0500
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If the turbo's seals are gone, then that is the problem, and needs
addressed.   New GM MAFs are true hot wires, and nothing in the air stream
(but the wires, and a bridge to hold them),  I shot Carb cleaner on it and
no ill effects.   The film ones are another matter and they most often have
a film board in the air stream (also often have a plastic case).
Picking parts for the right useage, is key.
If your calling the late GM MAF fragile you need to take another look.   AL
housing, O-Ring seals, fully encapsulated, I couldn't dream of better.
In my application, the MAF allows SEFI,  so while I spend $50 more on the
MAF sensor, it's well spent in my opinion.
FWIW, I'm actually doing this, not quessing about it.
Bruce



> Not just oil from the PCV, but oil from the turbo itself...
> I'd never even considered using a blow-through airflow meter
> configuration.  I suppose it would somewhat simplify the system, but it
> seems you're trading off a set of cheap, robust sensors (MAP, crank angle,
> and air temp) for a fragile, expensive one (MAF).
> james montebello

> On Mon, 5 Feb 2001, Matt Henson wrote:

> > I'm trying to see the difference in intake air
> > behavior between a turbo and NA car.  The speed of the
> > air can cause turbulence but this should be the same
> > regardless of the aspiration.  One must choose an
> > appropriatly sized pipe for the flow of the system.  I
> > suppose that the compressor could do something to
> > swirl(?) the incoming (and certainly the outgoing) air
> > but if we're talking about a significant distance
> > between the MAF and compressor then it shouldn't
> > matter, should it?
> >
> > How does the IC affect the desirability of using blow
> > through vs pull-through?  The IC's effect on the air
> > mass should be measured either way, no? I've
> > considered going blow through but decided that the
> > life of the MAF would be reduced due to the oil in the
> > system.  I spoke with Corky Bell about this and he
> > found that his blow through MAFs only last around 10k
> > miles before the oil kills them.  If you can
> > effectively prevent the PCV from introducing the oil
> > mist into the intake then it should help with the MAF
> > life.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Matt
> >
> >
> > --- Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > OK. what makes you think that?.
> > > Maybe if the air column was inertia free,
> > > First thought of mine is well look at a bath tub
> > > drain.   Vortecs big time,
> > > just to get the water thru.  Air acts just like
> > > water, only far less dense.
> > >   Specifically they were blow thrus,  but if that
> > > bad blow thru, I can image
> > > problems either way.
> > > I've been going thru this in some detail,  luckily
> > > my car has an Intercooler
> > > so by locating the MAF between that and the TB just
> > > makes sense, least to
> > > me, and so far things are acting totally as
> > > expected.
> > > Bruce

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Subject: Re: MAFs
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> I'm trying to see the difference in intake air
> behavior between a turbo and NA car.  The speed of the
> air can cause turbulence but this should be the same
> regardless of the aspiration.

N/A can exist with nothing more then a butterfly right by the intake valve,
and in that case a IR is the best possible.  It has the whole atmosphere
filling the cylinder.  A turbo forces some ducting.

  One must choose an
> appropriatly sized pipe for the flow of the system.  I
> suppose that the compressor could do something to
> swirl(?) the incoming (and certainly the outgoing) air
> but if we're talking about a significant distance
> between the MAF and compressor then it shouldn't
> matter, should it?

Ya, but that kills throttle response,  1 inch on my 4' long tract makes a
noticeable difference..

> How does the IC affect the desirability of using blow
> through vs pull-through?

The air has to line up to go thru it, takes most of the votexing out of the
air.   This allows the air to be presented to the MAF the same way all the
time.  Which is critical.  If you can't get repeatable measurements on air
flow, then at best everything is erratic.

The IC's effect on the air
> mass should be measured either way, no? I've
> considered going blow through but decided that the
> life of the MAF would be reduced due to the oil in the
> system.  I spoke with Corky Bell about this and he
> found that his blow through MAFs only last around 10k
> miles before the oil kills them.

Is he using one that is best for the application?.   If a film type MAF I
readily understand that.   Where is does he use a PCV system?.   How well
set up is the oil fume air seperator?.   That is darn near always over
looked.  Mine is down stream of the MAF.    Not a problem.  Then I also use
a  check valve in series with the PCV valve so  that if it doesn't seat
perfectly, I don't pressureize the crankcase.
Bruce

  If you can
> effectively prevent the PCV from introducing the oil
> mist into the intake then it should help with the MAF
> life.
>
> Regards,
> Matt
>
>
> --- Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net> wrote:
> >
> >
> > OK. what makes you think that?.
> > Maybe if the air column was inertia free,
> > First thought of mine is well look at a bath tub
> > drain.   Vortecs big time,
> > just to get the water thru.  Air acts just like
> > water, only far less dense.
> >   Specifically they were blow thrus,  but if that
> > bad blow thru, I can image
> > problems either way.
> > I've been going thru this in some detail,  luckily
> > my car has an Intercooler
> > so by locating the MAF between that and the TB just
> > makes sense, least to
> > me, and so far things are acting totally as
> > expected.
> > Bruce
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
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> a year!  http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  5 13:37:16 2001
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Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 13:37:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: MAFs
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> 
> N/A can exist with nothing more then a butterfly
> right by the intake valve,
> and in that case a IR is the best possible.  It has
> the whole atmosphere
> filling the cylinder.  A turbo forces some ducting.
Okay.  yes.

> 
>   One must choose an
> > appropriatly sized pipe for the flow of the
> system.  I
> > suppose that the compressor could do something to
> > swirl(?) the incoming (and certainly the outgoing)
> air
> > but if we're talking about a significant distance
> > between the MAF and compressor then it shouldn't
> > matter, should it?
> 
> Ya, but that kills throttle response,  1 inch on my
> 4' long tract makes a
> noticeable difference..
I see.  Okay.  My app (turbo M3) is forced to have a
ton of ducting.  Right now it's maybe 12-13 feet. 
After my changes are done it will be worse - probably
closer to 18 feet.  That sounds crazy but, at least at
the current length, the response is just fine.  No
noticable difference from a stock M3 and still better
than most cars. 

> The air has to line up to go thru it, takes most of
> the votexing out of the
> air.   This allows the air to be presented to the
> MAF the same way all the
> time.  Which is critical.  If you can't get
> repeatable measurements on air
> flow, then at best everything is erratic.
Okay the IC removes the turbulence from the turbo. 
But there also shouldn't be a significant amount of
turbulence if you measure before the turbo (assuming a
bit of ducting in there).  I would conclude, then,
that if you've got to have the duct then you'd might
as well put it before the turbo.

> 
> Is he using one that is best for the application?.  
> If a film type MAF I
> readily understand that.   Where is does he use a
> PCV system?.   How well
> set up is the oil fume air seperator?.   That is
> darn near always over
> looked.  Mine is down stream of the MAF.    Not a
> problem.  Then I also use
> a  check valve in series with the PCV valve so  that
> if it doesn't seat
> perfectly, I don't pressureize the crankcase.

I think that he used the Ford MAF (I believe that the
75mm (?) Cobra MAF is okay for blow through).  He
wasn't using an air/oil seperator for the PCV.  I
think that he didn't spend a ton of time on this since
packaging didn't make it that beneficial to use it as
blow-through.

So you've got the PCV downstream of the MAF?  and the
MAF is blow through?  So how does that not pressurize
the crankcase when you're under boost?  The crankcase
won't vent until it exceeds the manifold pressure,
right?

-Matt

> Bruce



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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  5 15:00:39 2001
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Subject: Re: MAFs
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No seal is perfect, particularly a seal around a shaft rotating at
six-digit speeds.  But that wasn't my main point.

I also never meant to suggest you weren't "doing this", only that the
idea had never occurred to me, and surprised me.

I was wondering aloud what the advantages would be over a draw-through
MAF, or a speed/density system.  The disadvantage appears to be potential
contamination of the MAF itself.  I fail to see the advantages, beyond
a bit more simplicity.  Simplicity can be a complete reason in itself,
as well as pragmatic reasons that doing so allows you to assemble parts
you already have into a working system.  Just wondering if there are
any other reasons. 

And by "fragile", I hardly meant mechanical strength, nor was I referring
to any particular MAF sensor.  Most MAF sensors will not put up with 
anywhere near as much abuse as a solid-state MAP sensor.  If the late GM
sensors do, then I'd say that's a welcome advance.

james montebello


On Mon, 5 Feb 2001, Bruce Plecan wrote:

> 
> If the turbo's seals are gone, then that is the problem, and needs
> addressed.   New GM MAFs are true hot wires, and nothing in the air stream
> (but the wires, and a bridge to hold them),  I shot Carb cleaner on it and
> no ill effects.   The film ones are another matter and they most often have
> a film board in the air stream (also often have a plastic case).
> Picking parts for the right useage, is key.
> If your calling the late GM MAF fragile you need to take another look.   AL
> housing, O-Ring seals, fully encapsulated, I couldn't dream of better.
> In my application, the MAF allows SEFI,  so while I spend $50 more on the
> MAF sensor, it's well spent in my opinion.
> FWIW, I'm actually doing this, not quessing about it.
> Bruce
> 
> 
> 
> > Not just oil from the PCV, but oil from the turbo itself...
> > I'd never even considered using a blow-through airflow meter
> > configuration.  I suppose it would somewhat simplify the system, but it
> > seems you're trading off a set of cheap, robust sensors (MAP, crank angle,
> > and air temp) for a fragile, expensive one (MAF).
> > james montebello
> 

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  5 15:56:58 2001
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> I was wondering aloud what the advantages would be over a draw-through
> MAF, or a speed/density system.  The disadvantage appears to be potential
> contamination of the MAF itself.  I fail to see the advantages, beyond
> a bit more simplicity.  Simplicity can be a complete reason in itself,
> as well as pragmatic reasons that doing so allows you to assemble parts
> you already have into a working system.  Just wondering if there are
> any other reasons.

How about the shear fact that if the IAT compensation is internal to the
MAF, then the metering allows for heat saturation of the I/C.   For doing
things as correct as possible makes the tuning all the easier.   this way
just a MAT timing table would allow for perfect tuning, or close to it.
All the IAT and MAT sesnors I've tested are rather slow to respond.  This
eliminates that, at east for thair sensing.  Now an MAT can be used for
timing control.  Still would be slow, but beats having errors in both timing
and fuel.

> And by "fragile", I hardly meant mechanical strength, nor was I referring
> to any particular MAF sensor.  Most MAF sensors will not put up with
> anywhere near as much abuse as a solid-state MAP sensor.  If the late GM
> sensors do, then I'd say that's a welcome advance.

GM MAPs use a strain guage so there is a moving part, the late GM MAFs no
moving parts.   A moving part is perfect for failure.  With the way I did
mine (MAF mounting) it's isolated on both sides with hoses.   To mount a MAP
real close usually means mounting solid (as done by some oems).   Mounting a
strain guage where supbject to vibration is less then perfect.
Bruce

> james montebello

> On Mon, 5 Feb 2001, Bruce Plecan wrote:
> > If the turbo's seals are gone, then that is the problem, and needs
> > addressed.   New GM MAFs are true hot wires, and nothing in the air
stream
> > (but the wires, and a bridge to hold them),  I shot Carb cleaner on it
and
> > no ill effects.   The film ones are another matter and they most often
have
> > a film board in the air stream (also often have a plastic case).
> > Picking parts for the right useage, is key.
> > If your calling the late GM MAF fragile you need to take another look.
AL
> > housing, O-Ring seals, fully encapsulated, I couldn't dream of better.
> > In my application, the MAF allows SEFI,  so while I spend $50 more on
the
> > MAF sensor, it's well spent in my opinion.
> > FWIW, I'm actually doing this, not quessing about it.
> > Bruce

> > > Not just oil from the PCV, but oil from the turbo itself...
> > > I'd never even considered using a blow-through airflow meter
> > > configuration.  I suppose it would somewhat simplify the system, but
it
> > > seems you're trading off a set of cheap, robust sensors (MAP, crank
angle,
> > > and air temp) for a fragile, expensive one (MAF).
> > > james montebello

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  5 15:59:34 2001
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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10102051440520.29720-100000@james.dev.auctionwatch.com>
Subject: Re: MAFs
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 16:00:28 -0800
Organization: Automation Artisans Inc.
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Hi guys,

This GM MAF sensor sounds interesting.  I'm in the process of computerizing
an Aluminum/Bronze melting furnace and had the bright light Idea that
measuring air flow along with a known orifice size and fixed propane
pressure could kill two birds with one stone.  I could detect furnace air
flow and therefore know that ignition and propane flow can continue or be
started and also determine the mass of the air.

Which GM vehicles use this MAF sensor or how much does GM want for it as a
replacement part.

What sort of output does it have or does it need a special circuit to drive
it?

Thanks,

John Dammeyer


----- Original Message -----
From: "James Montebello" <jamesm@lapuwali.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 2:57 PM
Subject: Re: MAFs


>
> No seal is perfect, particularly a seal around a shaft rotating at
> six-digit speeds.  But that wasn't my main point.
>
> I also never meant to suggest you weren't "doing this", only that the
> idea had never occurred to me, and surprised me.
>
> I was wondering aloud what the advantages would be over a draw-through
> MAF, or a speed/density system.  The disadvantage appears to be potential
> contamination of the MAF itself.  I fail to see the advantages, beyond
> a bit more simplicity.  Simplicity can be a complete reason in itself,
> as well as pragmatic reasons that doing so allows you to assemble parts
> you already have into a working system.  Just wondering if there are
> any other reasons.
>
> And by "fragile", I hardly meant mechanical strength, nor was I referring
> to any particular MAF sensor.  Most MAF sensors will not put up with
> anywhere near as much abuse as a solid-state MAP sensor.  If the late GM
> sensors do, then I'd say that's a welcome advance.
>
> james montebello
>
>
> On Mon, 5 Feb 2001, Bruce Plecan wrote:
>
> >
> > If the turbo's seals are gone, then that is the problem, and needs
> > addressed.   New GM MAFs are true hot wires, and nothing in the air
stream
> > (but the wires, and a bridge to hold them),  I shot Carb cleaner on it
and
> > no ill effects.   The film ones are another matter and they most often
have
> > a film board in the air stream (also often have a plastic case).
> > Picking parts for the right useage, is key.
> > If your calling the late GM MAF fragile you need to take another look.
AL
> > housing, O-Ring seals, fully encapsulated, I couldn't dream of better.
> > In my application, the MAF allows SEFI,  so while I spend $50 more on
the
> > MAF sensor, it's well spent in my opinion.
> > FWIW, I'm actually doing this, not quessing about it.
> > Bruce
> >
> >
> >
> > > Not just oil from the PCV, but oil from the turbo itself...
> > > I'd never even considered using a blow-through airflow meter
> > > configuration.  I suppose it would somewhat simplify the system, but
it
> > > seems you're trading off a set of cheap, robust sensors (MAP, crank
angle,
> > > and air temp) for a fragile, expensive one (MAF).
> > > james montebello
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
>
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  5 16:12:13 2001
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10102051440520.29720-100000@james.dev.auctionwatch.com> <012201c08fcf$d16da540$0100a8c0@telus.net>
Subject: Re: MAFs
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 19:12:14 -0500
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> This GM MAF sensor sounds interesting.  I'm in the process of
computerizing
> an Aluminum/Bronze melting furnace and had the bright light Idea that
> measuring air flow along with a known orifice size and fixed propane
> pressure could kill two birds with one stone.  I could detect furnace air
> flow and therefore know that ignition and propane flow can continue or be
> started and also determine the mass of the air.
> Which GM vehicles use this MAF sensor or how much does GM want for it as a
> replacement part.

Some real late S10s, LT1s and LS1s  (starts in about 95 for various ones>

> What sort of output does it have or does it need a special circuit to
drive
> it?

Runs on 12v,  frequency output  (there is a posting about gms/sec. vs
frequency).  Probably the GMECM archives.
Bruce
>
> Thanks,
>
> John Dammeyer
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Montebello" <jamesm@lapuwali.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 2:57 PM
> Subject: Re: MAFs
>
>
> >
> > No seal is perfect, particularly a seal around a shaft rotating at
> > six-digit speeds.  But that wasn't my main point.
> >
> > I also never meant to suggest you weren't "doing this", only that the
> > idea had never occurred to me, and surprised me.
> >
> > I was wondering aloud what the advantages would be over a draw-through
> > MAF, or a speed/density system.  The disadvantage appears to be
potential
> > contamination of the MAF itself.  I fail to see the advantages, beyond
> > a bit more simplicity.  Simplicity can be a complete reason in itself,
> > as well as pragmatic reasons that doing so allows you to assemble parts
> > you already have into a working system.  Just wondering if there are
> > any other reasons.
> >
> > And by "fragile", I hardly meant mechanical strength, nor was I
referring
> > to any particular MAF sensor.  Most MAF sensors will not put up with
> > anywhere near as much abuse as a solid-state MAP sensor.  If the late GM
> > sensors do, then I'd say that's a welcome advance.
> >
> > james montebello
> >
> >
> > On Mon, 5 Feb 2001, Bruce Plecan wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > If the turbo's seals are gone, then that is the problem, and needs
> > > addressed.   New GM MAFs are true hot wires, and nothing in the air
> stream
> > > (but the wires, and a bridge to hold them),  I shot Carb cleaner on it
> and
> > > no ill effects.   The film ones are another matter and they most often
> have
> > > a film board in the air stream (also often have a plastic case).
> > > Picking parts for the right useage, is key.
> > > If your calling the late GM MAF fragile you need to take another look.
> AL
> > > housing, O-Ring seals, fully encapsulated, I couldn't dream of better.
> > > In my application, the MAF allows SEFI,  so while I spend $50 more on
> the
> > > MAF sensor, it's well spent in my opinion.
> > > FWIW, I'm actually doing this, not quessing about it.
> > > Bruce
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > Not just oil from the PCV, but oil from the turbo itself...
> > > > I'd never even considered using a blow-through airflow meter
> > > > configuration.  I suppose it would somewhat simplify the system, but
> it
> > > > seems you're trading off a set of cheap, robust sensors (MAP, crank
> angle,
> > > > and air temp) for a fragile, expensive one (MAF).
> > > > james montebello
> > >
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> >
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  5 16:33:06 2001
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Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 18:28:27 -0600
From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
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Here's a thing that showed up in my inbox, if anyone is interested.  I
have no idea if their prices are sensible or not.

> Here is a site that manufactures throttle bodies for fuel injection,
> it may help some of the visitors.
> 
> www.fullthrottleperf.com

--steve

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  5 22:08:32 2001
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From: "Axel Rietschin" <Axel_Rietschin@compuserve.com>
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Subject: Re: MAFs
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>

> How about the shear fact that if the IAT compensation is internal to the
> MAF, then the metering allows for heat saturation of the I/C.

What comes in, comes out, no? Less temp, more density, less speed but same
amount of _air_, or did I miss something?

>  For doing
> things as correct as possible makes the tuning all the easier.   this way
> just a MAT timing table would allow for perfect tuning, or close to it.
> All the IAT and MAT sesnors I've tested are rather slow to respond.

Certainly fast enough to cope with for atmosphere temp change from what I
know, but now, for post turbo air temp change? IC will smooth things out but
to what extent? T63 constant of automotive air temp sensors I know of (Bosch
& Marelli) is in the 20s range, meaning it takes about a full minute to get
an accurate reading, which rule out most 'real-time' control strategies
based on that value.

> This
> eliminates that, at east for thair sensing.  Now an MAT can be used for
> timing control.  Still would be slow, but beats having errors in both
timing
> and fuel.

Yes, probably, but a minute late is really late as far as timing is
concerned :) Anyway, if the air charge temp raises quickly and the sensor
don't see it fast enough, the engine will run a bit richer than necessary,
which is on the safe side, so no big deal unless you are super-concerned
with fuel economy.

--Axel


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  5 22:18:40 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Coil Driver
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 22:21:14 -0800
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Evening all,

I was just looking @ the information from the FTP site called "combo
driver"  in it there is a coil driver that is a Harris piece (the part
number is 14N40FVL).  I was wondering if anyone has used this driver for
any projects & how well it worked.  It appears from the spec sheet (& the
print that Dave Rhoads made up) that this is a pretty straight forward
device.  power to the coil, coil to collector & collector to ground.  when
you trigger the gate off she goes.  

thanks in advance.
BW


--- Bob Wooten
--- r71chevy@earthlink.net
--- www.r71camaro.homestead.com 


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  5 22:36:37 2001
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Subject: Re: MAFs - Tornado
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Performance Products has a new product called Tornado. This is surprising
because Performance has always been one of my favorite suppliers. The
Tornado looks like a coffee can with internal fins designed to create
turbulence. For a fuel injected engine? It fits in the rubber boot leading
to the throttle. Every time I look at the Tornado pictures, it occurs to me
that a couple of beer cans in the intake would work as well.

It just strikes me funny in light of the threads of the past few days.

PS   I think even Honda owners will find this link funny....... maybe not.
http://members.rennlist.com/atsracing/rtype.jpg

FR Wilk
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  5 22:39:33 2001
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Does anyone have an formula's for plenum chamber volume?

The best i've been told so far is 1/2 - 2/3 of engine size (in litres)
The engine i'm doing the EFI conversion on is a 4.3Litre chrysler hemi 
inline 6.

Does the Length by width factor of the plenum matter? (ie 2X8 = 16 as does 
4X4)

Does anyone have a formula?

Thanks in advance, Glenn.


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb  5 23:12:43 2001
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn D" <electronicfuelinjection@hotmail.com>
> Does anyone have an formula's for plenum chamber volume?

Also, are there any good Intake manifold design web pages out there? I had
one for a DIY VOLVO intake but the link has vanished.

Thanks in advance,

FR Wilk
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  6 00:10:01 2001
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From: "Rob Weinstock" <weinstro@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Coil Driver
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 08:09:25 
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>I was just looking @ the information from the FTP site called "combo
>driver"  in it there is a coil driver that is a Harris piece (the part
>number is 14N40FVL).  I was wondering if anyone has used this driver for
>any projects & how well it worked.  It appears from the spec sheet (& the
>print that Dave Rhoads made up) that this is a pretty straight forward
>device.  power to the coil, coil to collector & collector to ground.  when
>you trigger the gate off she goes.

That device is a MOSFET power switching transistor. Unlike standard bipolar 
junction transistors (emitter/base/collector), this device is a field effect 
transistor (drain/gate/source). It requires a positive voltage to turn it 
on.

It is not a driver by itself, at least not like the CS452/CS453 or LM1949 
driver chips which actively monitor and control current to the fuel 
injector. The CS45X will drive a fuel injector coil by itself. The LM1939 
driver is designed to drive a Darlington transistor, but could be made to 
work with a MOSFET with a little extra effort.

Think of the above transistor as a power switch for the fuel injector coil.

Regards,

Rob
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  6 07:25:17 2001
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Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 10:24:48 -0500
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A buddy of mine forwarded this... though maybe some might be interested
in them.

>These are only 486's, but they're perfect for engine managment.
>IBM Thinkpad 486s, color screens, tested batteries, 28800 PCMCIA modems.

>With CD, 36mb, 1.2GB HD   $105
>Without CD, 36MB, 520HD   $90
>Without CD, 24mb, 510HD   $80

>Only have 6 of these, they're ex-corporate machines, aquired from a 
>liquidator.
>Buyer pays shipping, pre-pay only, can accept paypal.

>Email "onefastguy@hotmail.com"

Mike Wesley - AutoLogic
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  6 07:57:58 2001
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From: road runner <yz183@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Cheap laptops..
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I am who do I talk to?

--- Mike Wesley <mwesley@mediaone.net> wrote:
> A buddy of mine forwarded this... though maybe some
> might be interested
> in them.
> 
> >These are only 486's, but they're perfect for
> engine managment.
> >IBM Thinkpad 486s, color screens, tested batteries,
> 28800 PCMCIA modems.
> 
> >With CD, 36mb, 1.2GB HD   $105
> >Without CD, 36MB, 520HD   $90
> >Without CD, 24mb, 510HD   $80
> 
> >Only have 6 of these, they're ex-corporate
> machines, aquired from a 
> >liquidator.
> >Buyer pays shipping, pre-pay only, can accept
> paypal.
> 
> >Email "onefastguy@hotmail.com"
> 
> Mike Wesley - AutoLogic
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  6 08:16:08 2001
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road runner wrote:
> 
> I am who do I talk to?

Send e-mail to this guy.... He's the one who has them.

Email "onefastguy@hotmail.com"


Mike...
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  6 12:20:19 2001
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Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2001 11:52:18 -0600
Subject: Help cracking toyota ECU
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Hi All,

Someone recommended that I post this here if I wanted a chance at figuring
this out.  :)  

I have been working on trying to uncover some of the secrets of the 4th
gen. Toyota Supra Turbo ECU.  I have part of a broken computer that I
desoldered a FPGA from, however, it has Denso (apparently) custom chips
that I cannot read with my PROM burner.

Does anyone know if Denso makes their own FPGA for their ECU or if they
buy the chips and stamp their own part numbers on them?

Here is a pic of the chip.  http://fs.jmpvm.dyndns.org/~jmpvm/supra/ecu/DSCN1109.JPG

Any information you can give would be greatly appreciated.  If anyone
can cross-reference this chip with the real manufacturer (if it isn't
Denso) that would be GREAT.

Any other suggestions welcome.  I hope this was not too far off subject.
 Thanks in advance.

-- 
Josh Pullen
1994 HKS T04R Supra Turbo 
http://www.mkiv.org/jmpvm



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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  6 14:22:22 2001
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Subject: Running 8 low impedence injectors on GM ECM using an auxilliary injector driver?
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 13:00:23 -0500
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Has anyone ever tried running 8 low impedance injectors with an auxiliary
injector driver that is triggered by a GM ECM (like a 1990 F-body ECM)?
Accel/DFI makes a low impedance injector driver/controller that allows EFI
systems for high impedance injectors to trigger low impudence injectors. We
have used this system on some of the Accel/DFI applications (before they
came out with an ECM that could control low impedance injectors directly).
Anyone see any problems controlling this device from a GM factory ECM? Would
you use one to control all 8 or two, one to control each bank of 4
injectors?


Jason


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  6 17:46:26 2001
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I'm building a Fiberglass dune-buggy with a 2.0l ford motor (pinto)

I am looking for an inexpensive way to control fuel injectors, either by 
adapting a factory computer, building my own computer "brain" or purchasing 
an aftermarket unit.

Does anyone have a workable schematic for building my own EFI controller?

Or, does anyone know of an aftermarket unit I can get my hands on?
_________________________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  6 19:15:48 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Coil Driver
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 19:18:55 -0800
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Sorry, i meant ignition coil not injector coil.  if i am not mistaken this
Harris part is specifically a ignition coil driver.

BW


> [Original Message]
> From: Rob Weinstock <weinstro@hotmail.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Date: 2/6/01 12:12:03 AM
> Subject: Re: Coil Driver
>
> >I was just looking @ the information from the FTP site called "combo
> >driver"  in it there is a coil driver that is a Harris piece (the part
> >number is 14N40FVL).  I was wondering if anyone has used this driver for
> >any projects & how well it worked.  It appears from the spec sheet (& the
> >print that Dave Rhoads made up) that this is a pretty straight forward
> >device.  power to the coil, coil to collector & collector to ground. 
when
> >you trigger the gate off she goes.
> 
> That device is a MOSFET power switching transistor. Unlike standard
bipolar 
> junction transistors (emitter/base/collector), this device is a field
effect 
> transistor (drain/gate/source). It requires a positive voltage to turn it 
> on.
> 
> It is not a driver by itself, at least not like the CS452/CS453 or LM1949 
> driver chips which actively monitor and control current to the fuel 
> injector. The CS45X will drive a fuel injector coil by itself. The LM1939 
> driver is designed to drive a Darlington transistor, but could be made to 
> work with a MOSFET with a little extra effort.
> 
> Think of the above transistor as a power switch for the fuel injector
coil.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Rob
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
> 
>
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> 



--- Bob Wooten
--- r71chevy@earthlink.net
--- www.r71camaro.homestead.com 


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  6 19:56:55 2001
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@home.com>
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Subject: Re: Running 8 low impedence injectors on GM ECM using an auxilliary injector driver?
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 22:57:44 -0800
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The Accel VIC product is made for exactly what you describe.  Two input
channels controlling two banks of four low impedance injectors each.  I like
the added feature of adjustable pulse trim per injector, in spite of the
fact that the control architecture remains batch with a VIC.  I think the
VIC is an excellent product and would not hesitate using external drivers
(custom or commercial) to control low impedance (or odd gangs) of injectors
that are to be triggered by OE style boxes not originally intended for same.
This holds true for port fuel or TBI fuel.  Makes good sense as: 1)the
injectors each get the current that they were intended for, if the external
box is done "right", and  2)the ECM/PCM/ECU is relegated to handling nothing
more than low current level triggering duties, which won't hurt it's life
cycle in the least.  Win/Win situation, if you have to use an OE box that
does not encompass your injector count/type.  I use a number of LM1949 based
"boxes" in what I play with, and have not yet had any problems.

Walt.




> Has anyone ever tried running 8 low impedance injectors with an auxiliary
> injector driver that is triggered by a GM ECM (like a 1990 F-body ECM)?
> Accel/DFI makes a low impedance injector driver/controller that allows EFI
> systems for high impedance injectors to trigger low impudence injectors.
We
> have used this system on some of the Accel/DFI applications (before they
> came out with an ECM that could control low impedance injectors directly).
> Anyone see any problems controlling this device from a GM factory ECM?
Would
> you use one to control all 8 or two, one to control each bank of 4
> injectors?
>
>
> Jason


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb  6 21:15:44 2001
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Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 21:18:43 -0800
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: Ross Corrigan <280zx@home.com>
Subject: Re: EFI control
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if you decide on the SDS system www.sdsefi.com or similar a friend is doing 
a group buy right now at 20% off, they're literally sending money already 
to him and hope to place all orders (he's doing all the legwork) by next 
wednesday if he has enough dough in by then for them to grant 20%

if you've done your homework and know what you want email
mailto:mike@fonebooth.com
who's doing the groupbuy

for any potential canadian buyers you can have additional tax savings on 
top of that.....

no affiliation with sds, just keeping the word out as I'm not sure if they 
have all the buyers they need for 20%, they were short one last I heard 
with 3 other 'expected' to sign up



At 05:45 PM 2/6/01 , keith hansen wrote:


>I'm building a Fiberglass dune-buggy with a 2.0l ford motor (pinto)
>
>I am looking for an inexpensive way to control fuel injectors, either by 
>adapting a factory computer, building my own computer "brain" or 
>purchasing an aftermarket unit.
>
>Does anyone have a workable schematic for building my own EFI controller?
>
>Or, does anyone know of an aftermarket unit I can get my hands on?
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
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Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada      R200 4.11's available

Of all the things I've lost I miss my mind the most.

mailto:280zx@home.com      ICQ # 11549358
http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg    where a 
Z belongs
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 05:18:08 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: EFI control
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 08:17:25 -0500 
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The SDS stuff has such a cheesy, homemade look to it, and it costs more than
an Accel system!

-----Original Message-----
From: Ross Corrigan [mailto:280zx@home.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 12:19 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: EFI control


if you decide on the SDS system www.sdsefi.com or similar a friend is doing 
a group buy right now at 20% off, they're literally sending money already 
to him and hope to place all orders (he's doing all the legwork) by next 
wednesday if he has enough dough in by then for them to grant 20%

if you've done your homework and know what you want email
mailto:mike@fonebooth.com
who's doing the groupbuy

for any potential canadian buyers you can have additional tax savings on 
top of that.....

no affiliation with sds, just keeping the word out as I'm not sure if they 
have all the buyers they need for 20%, they were short one last I heard 
with 3 other 'expected' to sign up



At 05:45 PM 2/6/01 , keith hansen wrote:


>I'm building a Fiberglass dune-buggy with a 2.0l ford motor (pinto)
>
>I am looking for an inexpensive way to control fuel injectors, either by 
>adapting a factory computer, building my own computer "brain" or 
>purchasing an aftermarket unit.
>
>Does anyone have a workable schematic for building my own EFI controller?
>
>Or, does anyone know of an aftermarket unit I can get my hands on?
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
>in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org

Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada      R200 4.11's available

Of all the things I've lost I miss my mind the most.

mailto:280zx@home.com      ICQ # 11549358
http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg    where a 
Z belongs
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 06:15:02 2001
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Actually there is a fair amount of turbulence ahead of
the turbo on a suck through system. In my application, I
 have seen the signal from the (Ford) MAF rise from 1.2v
 to 2.5 at constant load and constant throttle position
in response to turbo RPM at an 80mph cruize. Makes for
very annoying highway driving (WOT is fine, but the local
 police frown on WOT as highway cruize policy).
Blow-through also allows the blow-off vale to be
vented to atmosphere.  Yesterday, I spoke at length with
the engineer at Pro-Flow pro-M about pros and cons of blow
 through and whether either can give consistent readings
with a ford MAF on a turbo system. (Ford MAFs is a huge
portion of their business) He was very knowlegable but not
 terribly optomistic--even though he could have sold me
some parts by being less honest. He seemed more concerned
 about any bends in the plumbing than the spinning air
from a turbo. But his turbo experience was minimal. They
 are working on some huge, chambered design that is
supposed to be immune to turbulence (not sure at what
cost in terms of flow restriction) but it is still too
 expensive to market $600+.
Perhaps I do need to convert to MAP. Anyone here have
any experience with the Link AFM?

I have also considered a throttle-position based voltage
 clamp to limit the turbulence-induced enrichment at lower
 rpms. Not an elegant solution, but relatively easy.

Rod
86 944 Turbo.




>Hi Bruce,
>I wouldn't think that a turbo would have any extra
>turbulence before the compressor.  Are you saying that
>the problems occur when they are used as blow-through
>or is it also with normal, pull-through operation?
>Regards,
>Matt


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 07:31:09 2001
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Now, there's a selling point,   our's is prettier then brand, x.
Bruce



From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> The SDS stuff has such a cheesy, homemade look to it, and it costs more
than
> an Accel system!

> From: Ross Corrigan [mailto:280zx@home.com]
> if you decide on the SDS system www.sdsefi.com or similar a friend is
doing
> a group buy right now at 20% off, they're literally sending money already
> to him and hope to place all orders (he's doing all the legwork) by next
> wednesday if he has enough dough in by then for them to grant 20%
> if you've done your homework and know what you want email
> mailto:mike@fonebooth.com
> who's doing the groupbuy
> for any potential canadian buyers you can have additional tax savings on
> top of that.....
> no affiliation with sds, just keeping the word out as I'm not sure if they
> have all the buyers they need for 20%, they were short one last I heard
> with 3 other 'expected' to sign up
 keith hansen wrote:
> >I'm building a Fiberglass dune-buggy with a 2.0l ford motor (pinto)
> >I am looking for an inexpensive way to control fuel injectors, either by
> >adapting a factory computer, building my own computer "brain" or
> >purchasing an aftermarket unit.
> >Does anyone have a workable schematic for building my own EFI controller?
> >Or, does anyone know of an aftermarket unit I can get my hands on?

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 07:59:03 2001
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From: Eric Bryant <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
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Subject: RE: EFI control
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> From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> Subject: Re: EFI control
> 
> Now, there's a selling point,   our's is prettier then brand, x.
> Bruce
>

Not that I'm a big fan of using fashion to sell parts, but I'm a firm
beliver that there's a certain level of sophistication necessary to survive
in the automotive environment (whether it's underhood or in the interior).
Look at the PCM for the LT-1 - it's a really nice piece of equipment, with
all the measures necessary to provide reliable operation.  I'm seen some
aftermarket auto stuff (especially stereo equipment) that's just not capable
of living for long with thermal cycling, shock, etc.  

For what it's worth, I'm not familar with the Accel or SDS stuff, so I could
just be talking out of my ass.

Eric Bryant
mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
http://www.novagate.com/~bryante 
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Ugh, well here we go again, from accel to GM PCMs.  OK, took GM almost 20
years to evolve this far.   GM sells what about 18 trillion pcms a year?.
If the new stuff was still a ecm it probably would be in the same box as in
82, just the newer stuff has that much more heat, and enironment to deal
with.   Things get to where they are also over engineered, and KISS gets
completely lost.
Bruce



> > From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> > Subject: Re: EFI control
> > Now, there's a selling point,   our's is prettier then brand, x.
> > Bruce
> Not that I'm a big fan of using fashion to sell parts, but I'm a firm
> beliver that there's a certain level of sophistication necessary to
survive
> in the automotive environment (whether it's underhood or in the interior).
> Look at the PCM for the LT-1 - it's a really nice piece of equipment, with
> all the measures necessary to provide reliable operation.  I'm seen some
> aftermarket auto stuff (especially stereo equipment) that's just not
capable
> of living for long with thermal cycling, shock, etc.
> For what it's worth, I'm not familar with the Accel or SDS stuff, so I
could
> just be talking out of my ass.
>
> Eric Bryant
> mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
> http://www.novagate.com/~bryante
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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If the guy selling SDS's hacked it together in his basement, why should I 
pay more for it?  Is it noticably better designed than commercial units? 
Waterproof?  Conformal coated?  What's so much better?

And his harness SUX!  (I designed Automotive EFI harnesses for an OEM)

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 10:31 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: EFI control




Now, there's a selling point,   our's is prettier then brand, x.
Bruce



From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> The SDS stuff has such a cheesy, homemade look to it, and it costs more
than
> an Accel system!

> From: Ross Corrigan [mailto:280zx@home.com]
> if you decide on the SDS system www.sdsefi.com or similar a friend is
doing
> a group buy right now at 20% off, they're literally sending money already
> to him and hope to place all orders (he's doing all the legwork) by next
> wednesday if he has enough dough in by then for them to grant 20%
> if you've done your homework and know what you want email
> mailto:mike@fonebooth.com
> who's doing the groupbuy
> for any potential canadian buyers you can have additional tax savings on
> top of that.....
> no affiliation with sds, just keeping the word out as I'm not sure if they
> have all the buyers they need for 20%, they were short one last I heard
> with 3 other 'expected' to sign up
 keith hansen wrote:
> >I'm building a Fiberglass dune-buggy with a 2.0l ford motor (pinto)
> >I am looking for an inexpensive way to control fuel injectors, either by
> >adapting a factory computer, building my own computer "brain" or
> >purchasing an aftermarket unit.
> >Does anyone have a workable schematic for building my own EFI controller?
> >Or, does anyone know of an aftermarket unit I can get my hands on?

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 08:43:43 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: EFI control
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 11:43:02 -0500 
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Agreed, I was closely involved with the design of a robust ECM for an OEM
industrial engine company, and the level of robustness was far above what
most of the aftermarket types sell.  You can't just throw components on a
board,
stuff it in an aluminum case and expect it to survive.  The customers were
always
sending units back with problems.  And this was a waterproof case, gasketed,
conformal coated, EMI shielded, diode protected, etc. ad nauseum.
Our harnesses used crosslinked polyethylene wire, waterproof connections at
all points,
hi temp poly conduit, with hi temp tape over everything.  We STILL had
problems
with stuff melting.  NO WAY that SDS harness holds up in an engine
environment.
His cables appear to be multi-conductor cable available in catalogs.  Is his
crank
signal shielded?  Twisted?  Doubt it.

To be fair, the typical Accel offering isn't up to snuff either.  The
motronic is nice,
but $$$, and the high-end Accel unit is waterproof, but not much better
internally than
the standard batch box.  About the nicest one I've seen is the FP
performance one, which
has a nice waterproof cast aluminum case, and conformal coated, but the
internals are straight
from Accel stuff, which makes sense since the guy who started FP performance
was one of the 
original founders of DFI/Accel.  He pretty much copied the design.

Sorry to be so long winded.

Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: Eric Bryant [mailto:BRYANTE@ghsp.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 10:58 AM
To: 'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'
Subject: RE: EFI control


> From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> Subject: Re: EFI control
> 
> Now, there's a selling point,   our's is prettier then brand, x.
> Bruce
>

Not that I'm a big fan of using fashion to sell parts, but I'm a firm
beliver that there's a certain level of sophistication necessary to survive
in the automotive environment (whether it's underhood or in the interior).
Look at the PCM for the LT-1 - it's a really nice piece of equipment, with
all the measures necessary to provide reliable operation.  I'm seen some
aftermarket auto stuff (especially stereo equipment) that's just not capable
of living for long with thermal cycling, shock, etc.  

For what it's worth, I'm not familar with the Accel or SDS stuff, so I could
just be talking out of my ass.

Eric Bryant
mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
http://www.novagate.com/~bryante 
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 08:54:21 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: EFI control
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 11:53:28 -0500 
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I don't know about you Bruce, I really don't like it when my vehicle breaks
down in the middle of nowhere because it's only engineered to 'just good
enough'
level.  that's what safety factors are for.

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 11:15 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: EFI control




Ugh, well here we go again, from accel to GM PCMs.  OK, took GM almost 20
years to evolve this far.   GM sells what about 18 trillion pcms a year?.
If the new stuff was still a ecm it probably would be in the same box as in
82, just the newer stuff has that much more heat, and enironment to deal
with.   Things get to where they are also over engineered, and KISS gets
completely lost.
Bruce



> > From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> > Subject: Re: EFI control
> > Now, there's a selling point,   our's is prettier then brand, x.
> > Bruce
> Not that I'm a big fan of using fashion to sell parts, but I'm a firm
> beliver that there's a certain level of sophistication necessary to
survive
> in the automotive environment (whether it's underhood or in the interior).
> Look at the PCM for the LT-1 - it's a really nice piece of equipment, with
> all the measures necessary to provide reliable operation.  I'm seen some
> aftermarket auto stuff (especially stereo equipment) that's just not
capable
> of living for long with thermal cycling, shock, etc.
> For what it's worth, I'm not familar with the Accel or SDS stuff, so I
could
> just be talking out of my ass.
>
> Eric Bryant
> mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
> http://www.novagate.com/~bryante
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 09:32:34 2001
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Sounds like we've slipped from pretty to engineering.
Night
Bruce


From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> If the guy selling SDS's hacked it together in his basement, why should I
> pay more for it?  Is it noticably better designed than commercial units?
> Waterproof?  Conformal coated?  What's so much better?
> And his harness SUX!  (I designed Automotive EFI harnesses for an OEM)

> From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> Now, there's a selling point,   our's is prettier then brand, x.
> Bruce

> From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> > The SDS stuff has such a cheesy, homemade look to it, and it costs more
> than
> > an Accel system!
>
> > From: Ross Corrigan [mailto:280zx@home.com]
> > if you decide on the SDS system www.sdsefi.com or similar a friend is
> doing
> > a group buy right now at 20% off, they're literally sending money
already
> > to him and hope to place all orders (he's doing all the legwork) by next
> > wednesday if he has enough dough in by then for them to grant 20%
> > if you've done your homework and know what you want email
> > mailto:mike@fonebooth.com
> > who's doing the groupbuy
> > for any potential canadian buyers you can have additional tax savings on
> > top of that.....
> > no affiliation with sds, just keeping the word out as I'm not sure if
they
> > have all the buyers they need for 20%, they were short one last I heard
> > with 3 other 'expected' to sign up
>  keith hansen wrote:
> > >I'm building a Fiberglass dune-buggy with a 2.0l ford motor (pinto)
> > >I am looking for an inexpensive way to control fuel injectors, either
by
> > >adapting a factory computer, building my own computer "brain" or
> > >purchasing an aftermarket unit.
> > >Does anyone have a workable schematic for building my own EFI
controller?
> > >Or, does anyone know of an aftermarket unit I can get my hands on?

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 09:35:34 2001
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Might just cut down a lil on the caffeine.
Your really trying to mistate what I've said.
Bruce




From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> I don't know about you Bruce, I really don't like it when my vehicle
breaks
> down in the middle of nowhere because it's only engineered to 'just good
> enough'
> level.  that's what safety factors are for.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 11:15 AM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: EFI control
>
>
>
>
> Ugh, well here we go again, from accel to GM PCMs.  OK, took GM almost 20
> years to evolve this far.   GM sells what about 18 trillion pcms a year?.
> If the new stuff was still a ecm it probably would be in the same box as
in
> 82, just the newer stuff has that much more heat, and enironment to deal
> with.   Things get to where they are also over engineered, and KISS gets
> completely lost.
> Bruce
>
>
>
> > > From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> > > Subject: Re: EFI control
> > > Now, there's a selling point,   our's is prettier then brand, x.
> > > Bruce
> > Not that I'm a big fan of using fashion to sell parts, but I'm a firm
> > beliver that there's a certain level of sophistication necessary to
> survive
> > in the automotive environment (whether it's underhood or in the
interior).
> > Look at the PCM for the LT-1 - it's a really nice piece of equipment,
with
> > all the measures necessary to provide reliable operation.  I'm seen some
> > aftermarket auto stuff (especially stereo equipment) that's just not
> capable
> > of living for long with thermal cycling, shock, etc.
> > For what it's worth, I'm not familar with the Accel or SDS stuff, so I
> could
> > just be talking out of my ass.
> >
> > Eric Bryant
> > mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
> > http://www.novagate.com/~bryante
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 10:13:16 2001
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From: Eric Bryant <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: EFI control
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 13:12:38 -0500 
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> From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> Subject: Re: EFI control
> 
> Ugh, well here we go again, from accel to GM PCMs.  OK, took 
> GM almost 20
> years to evolve this far.   GM sells what about 18 trillion 
> pcms a year?.
> If the new stuff was still a ecm it probably would be in the 
> same box as in
> 82, just the newer stuff has that much more heat, and 
> enironment to deal
> with.   Things get to where they are also over engineered, 
> and KISS gets
> completely lost.
> Bruce

Well, I'm an automotive electrical engineer, and I do understand why the
requirements have evolved to the point where they're at right now.  If
you're only driving your car on the strip and it's being operated from temps
ranging from, oh, 40 F to 100 F, and only on dry days, then I can see where
you don't need the level of engineering that an OEM part provides.

However, if your car is a daily driver, and you want a module that will last
many years and work in all sessons, and all conditions, then you really,
really do need the level of engineering that the OEMs perform.  Sorry, but
if I'm dropping $3000 on a aftermarket ECU, then I want something that's
going to work within the stated operating parameters.  If the vendor claims
that the part is good for fair-weather use only and shouldn't be used on a
daily driver, fine.  If the vendor is claiming that I can bolt his XYZ ECU
into my car for use as a daily driver, then he had better comprehend the
environment and its effects on his module.

So, is the average aftermarket part tested for EMC behavior?  No?  So what
happens when I drive past a cell phone tower?  How about thermal shock
testing?  No?  Oops, better not go through the car wash on a hot summer day.
Shock and vibration testing?  Here in Michigan we have huge potholes.  

I know that I'm going to come off as yet another young engineer who wants to
make everything more complex just for the sake of doing so.  It's just that
I've seen some stuff that doesn't belong in an alarm clock, much less in a
automotive environment where I'm trusting my equipment (and maybe even my
safety) to a piece of junk that wasn't properly engineered.

End of rant.  I don't have the right to tell anyone what parts to run in
their car - all I can do is set standards for my own stuff.

Eric Bryant
mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
http://www.novagate.com/~bryante 

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 10:15:14 2001
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Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 10:15:00 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: MAFs
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
In-Reply-To: <852569EC.004D28B3.00@csc06keysrva06s.keybank.com>
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Hi Rod,
Thanks for the information.  I used to have a 951
also.  The pipe length between the MAF and the turbo
is pretty short - like 1 foot, right?  I guess it
takes more pipe length to have a laminer flow back at
the MAF.  Have you considered adding any air
straightening devices to your pipe?  Maybe some fins
or something?  I would suspect that your problem is
solvable without changing the basic architecture of
your system.

Certainly a blow through MAF would have major
advantages.  But, if it can't get at least 50k
reliability then it's not for me.

I think that in cases like this it's best to borrow
what the OEMs have done.  I always ask myself "What
would Porsche do?"  In this case, on their MAF-based
systems, they put it before the turbo.  Does any OEM
use blow through?

Regards,
Matt

--- Rodney_L_Wiggins@keybank.com wrote:
> Actually there is a fair amount of turbulence ahead
> of
> the turbo on a suck through system. In my
> application, I
>  have seen the signal from the (Ford) MAF rise from
> 1.2v
>  to 2.5 at constant load and constant throttle
> position
> in response to turbo RPM at an 80mph cruize. Makes
> for
> very annoying highway driving (WOT is fine, but the
> local
>  police frown on WOT as highway cruize policy).
> Blow-through also allows the blow-off vale to be
> vented to atmosphere.  Yesterday, I spoke at length
> with
> the engineer at Pro-Flow pro-M about pros and cons
> of blow
>  through and whether either can give consistent
> readings
> with a ford MAF on a turbo system. (Ford MAFs is a
> huge
> portion of their business) He was very knowlegable
> but not
>  terribly optomistic--even though he could have sold
> me
> some parts by being less honest. He seemed more
> concerned
>  about any bends in the plumbing than the spinning
> air
> from a turbo. But his turbo experience was minimal.
> They
>  are working on some huge, chambered design that is
> supposed to be immune to turbulence (not sure at
> what
> cost in terms of flow restriction) but it is still
> too
>  expensive to market $600+.
> Perhaps I do need to convert to MAP. Anyone here
> have
> any experience with the Link AFM?
> 
> I have also considered a throttle-position based
> voltage
>  clamp to limit the turbulence-induced enrichment at
> lower
>  rpms. Not an elegant solution, but relatively easy.
> 
> Rod
> 86 944 Turbo.
> 


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 10:16:58 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: EFI control
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 13:16:16 -0500 
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Well, it sounds like you think the more robust boxen are over engineered, 
where I consider that to be mandatory, as I don't want to walk from pt a to
b.
That's what the vehicle is for.  If I misstated that, forgive me.

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 12:36 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: EFI control



Might just cut down a lil on the caffeine.
Your really trying to mistate what I've said.
Bruce




From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> I don't know about you Bruce, I really don't like it when my vehicle
breaks
> down in the middle of nowhere because it's only engineered to 'just good
> enough'
> level.  that's what safety factors are for.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 11:15 AM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: EFI control
>
>
>
>
> Ugh, well here we go again, from accel to GM PCMs.  OK, took GM almost 20
> years to evolve this far.   GM sells what about 18 trillion pcms a year?.
> If the new stuff was still a ecm it probably would be in the same box as
in
> 82, just the newer stuff has that much more heat, and enironment to deal
> with.   Things get to where they are also over engineered, and KISS gets
> completely lost.
> Bruce
>
>
>
> > > From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> > > Subject: Re: EFI control
> > > Now, there's a selling point,   our's is prettier then brand, x.
> > > Bruce
> > Not that I'm a big fan of using fashion to sell parts, but I'm a firm
> > beliver that there's a certain level of sophistication necessary to
> survive
> > in the automotive environment (whether it's underhood or in the
interior).
> > Look at the PCM for the LT-1 - it's a really nice piece of equipment,
with
> > all the measures necessary to provide reliable operation.  I'm seen some
> > aftermarket auto stuff (especially stereo equipment) that's just not
> capable
> > of living for long with thermal cycling, shock, etc.
> > For what it's worth, I'm not familar with the Accel or SDS stuff, so I
> could
> > just be talking out of my ass.
> >
> > Eric Bryant
> > mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
> > http://www.novagate.com/~bryante
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 10:29:42 2001
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <E02BB40176A5D41189BF00805FA65C97186843@DINO>
Subject: Re: EFI control
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Golly take about defensive attitudes, and reading 10x more into a comment
then what was said, geesh, BTW, Noone looks for reliability more then I.
NO ONE.
Later
Bruce

From: "Eric Bryant" <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
> > From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> > Subject: Re: EFI control
> > Ugh, well here we go again, from accel to GM PCMs.  OK, took
> > GM almost 20
> > years to evolve this far.   GM sells what about 18 trillion
> > pcms a year?.
> > If the new stuff was still a ecm it probably would be in the
> > same box as in
> > 82, just the newer stuff has that much more heat, and
> > enironment to deal
> > with.   Things get to where they are also over engineered,
> > and KISS gets
> > completely lost.
> > Bruce

> Well, I'm an automotive electrical engineer, and I do understand why the
> requirements have evolved to the point where they're at right now.  If
> you're only driving your car on the strip and it's being operated from
temps
> ranging from, oh, 40 F to 100 F, and only on dry days, then I can see
where
> you don't need the level of engineering that an OEM part provides.
> However, if your car is a daily driver, and you want a module that will
last
> many years and work in all sessons, and all conditions, then you really,
> really do need the level of engineering that the OEMs perform.  Sorry, but
> if I'm dropping $3000 on a aftermarket ECU, then I want something that's
> going to work within the stated operating parameters.  If the vendor
claims
> that the part is good for fair-weather use only and shouldn't be used on a
> daily driver, fine.  If the vendor is claiming that I can bolt his XYZ ECU
> into my car for use as a daily driver, then he had better comprehend the
> environment and its effects on his module.
> So, is the average aftermarket part tested for EMC behavior?  No?  So what
> happens when I drive past a cell phone tower?  How about thermal shock
> testing?  No?  Oops, better not go through the car wash on a hot summer
day.
> Shock and vibration testing?  Here in Michigan we have huge potholes.
> I know that I'm going to come off as yet another young engineer who wants
to
> make everything more complex just for the sake of doing so.  It's just
that
> I've seen some stuff that doesn't belong in an alarm clock, much less in a
> automotive environment where I'm trusting my equipment (and maybe even my
> safety) to a piece of junk that wasn't properly engineered.
> End of rant.  I don't have the right to tell anyone what parts to run in
> their car - all I can do is set standards for my own stuff.
> Eric Bryant
> mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
> http://www.novagate.com/~bryante

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 10:39:41 2001
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <C7D667D4FEB0D411AE140002A513CA32A101D6@marmisex01.ecd.etn.com>
Subject: Re: EFI control
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No, and Yes,
No problem.
I think the design and execution of the current pcms is at least elegant.
But, it didn't happen over night, and an aftermarket companies have no where
near the talent that say GM does.   But, that doesn't mean there can't be
other answers for other applications.  All things being Equal, I'd rather
forgo pretty packaging.  Pretty like they say is skin deep.  Well executed,
reliable, are all seperate issues.
Bruce


From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> Well, it sounds like you think the more robust boxen are over engineered,
> where I consider that to be mandatory, as I don't want to walk from pt a
to
> b.
> That's what the vehicle is for.  If I misstated that, forgive me.

> From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> Might just cut down a lil on the caffeine.
> Your really trying to mistate what I've said.
> Bruce

> From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> > I don't know about you Bruce, I really don't like it when my vehicle
> breaks
> > down in the middle of nowhere because it's only engineered to 'just good
> > enough'
> > level.  that's what safety factors are for.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 11:15 AM
> > To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > Subject: Re: EFI control
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Ugh, well here we go again, from accel to GM PCMs.  OK, took GM almost
20
> > years to evolve this far.   GM sells what about 18 trillion pcms a
year?.
> > If the new stuff was still a ecm it probably would be in the same box as
> in
> > 82, just the newer stuff has that much more heat, and enironment to deal
> > with.   Things get to where they are also over engineered, and KISS gets
> > completely lost.
> > Bruce
> >
> >
> >
> > > > From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> > > > Subject: Re: EFI control
> > > > Now, there's a selling point,   our's is prettier then brand, x.
> > > > Bruce
> > > Not that I'm a big fan of using fashion to sell parts, but I'm a firm
> > > beliver that there's a certain level of sophistication necessary to
> > survive
> > > in the automotive environment (whether it's underhood or in the
> interior).
> > > Look at the PCM for the LT-1 - it's a really nice piece of equipment,
> with
> > > all the measures necessary to provide reliable operation.  I'm seen
some
> > > aftermarket auto stuff (especially stereo equipment) that's just not
> > capable
> > > of living for long with thermal cycling, shock, etc.
> > > For what it's worth, I'm not familar with the Accel or SDS stuff, so I
> > could
> > > just be talking out of my ass.
> > >
> > > Eric Bryant
> > > mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
> > > http://www.novagate.com/~bryante
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > --
> > > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> > quotes)
> > > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
> majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> > >
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
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> quotes)
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>
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> >
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 10:41:44 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: EFI control
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 13:40:59 -0500 
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I agree fully with this.  The typical aftermarket box just doesn't cut it.
Function maybe at the track, but not in the usual daily environment.

-----Original Message-----
From: Eric Bryant [mailto:BRYANTE@ghsp.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 1:13 PM
To: 'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'
Subject: RE: EFI control



Well, I'm an automotive electrical engineer, and I do understand why the
requirements have evolved to the point where they're at right now.  If
you're only driving your car on the strip and it's being operated from temps
ranging from, oh, 40 F to 100 F, and only on dry days, then I can see where
you don't need the level of engineering that an OEM part provides.

However, if your car is a daily driver, and you want a module that will last
many years and work in all sessons, and all conditions, then you really,
really do need the level of engineering that the OEMs perform.  Sorry, but
if I'm dropping $3000 on a aftermarket ECU, then I want something that's
going to work within the stated operating parameters.  If the vendor claims
that the part is good for fair-weather use only and shouldn't be used on a
daily driver, fine.  If the vendor is claiming that I can bolt his XYZ ECU
into my car for use as a daily driver, then he had better comprehend the
environment and its effects on his module.

So, is the average aftermarket part tested for EMC behavior?  No?  So what
happens when I drive past a cell phone tower?  How about thermal shock
testing?  No?  Oops, better not go through the car wash on a hot summer day.
Shock and vibration testing?  Here in Michigan we have huge potholes.  

I know that I'm going to come off as yet another young engineer who wants to
make everything more complex just for the sake of doing so.  It's just that
I've seen some stuff that doesn't belong in an alarm clock, much less in a
automotive environment where I'm trusting my equipment (and maybe even my
safety) to a piece of junk that wasn't properly engineered.

End of rant.  I don't have the right to tell anyone what parts to run in
their car - all I can do is set standards for my own stuff.

Eric Bryant
mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
http://www.novagate.com/~bryante 

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 10:52:57 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: EFI control
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 13:52:11 -0500 
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So let's boil this down Bruce, what do you mean?  

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 1:30 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: EFI control



Golly take about defensive attitudes, and reading 10x more into a comment
then what was said, geesh, BTW, Noone looks for reliability more then I.
NO ONE.
Later
Bruce

From: "Eric Bryant" <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
> > From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> > Subject: Re: EFI control
> > Ugh, well here we go again, from accel to GM PCMs.  OK, took
> > GM almost 20
> > years to evolve this far.   GM sells what about 18 trillion
> > pcms a year?.
> > If the new stuff was still a ecm it probably would be in the
> > same box as in
> > 82, just the newer stuff has that much more heat, and
> > enironment to deal
> > with.   Things get to where they are also over engineered,
> > and KISS gets
> > completely lost.
> > Bruce

> Well, I'm an automotive electrical engineer, and I do understand why the
> requirements have evolved to the point where they're at right now.  If
> you're only driving your car on the strip and it's being operated from
temps
> ranging from, oh, 40 F to 100 F, and only on dry days, then I can see
where
> you don't need the level of engineering that an OEM part provides.
> However, if your car is a daily driver, and you want a module that will
last
> many years and work in all sessons, and all conditions, then you really,
> really do need the level of engineering that the OEMs perform.  Sorry, but
> if I'm dropping $3000 on a aftermarket ECU, then I want something that's
> going to work within the stated operating parameters.  If the vendor
claims
> that the part is good for fair-weather use only and shouldn't be used on a
> daily driver, fine.  If the vendor is claiming that I can bolt his XYZ ECU
> into my car for use as a daily driver, then he had better comprehend the
> environment and its effects on his module.
> So, is the average aftermarket part tested for EMC behavior?  No?  So what
> happens when I drive past a cell phone tower?  How about thermal shock
> testing?  No?  Oops, better not go through the car wash on a hot summer
day.
> Shock and vibration testing?  Here in Michigan we have huge potholes.
> I know that I'm going to come off as yet another young engineer who wants
to
> make everything more complex just for the sake of doing so.  It's just
that
> I've seen some stuff that doesn't belong in an alarm clock, much less in a
> automotive environment where I'm trusting my equipment (and maybe even my
> safety) to a piece of junk that wasn't properly engineered.
> End of rant.  I don't have the right to tell anyone what parts to run in
> their car - all I can do is set standards for my own stuff.
> Eric Bryant
> mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
> http://www.novagate.com/~bryante

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 10:59:36 2001
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From: Eric Bryant <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: EFI control
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 13:58:47 -0500 
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> From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> Subject: Re: EFI control
> 
> 
> 
> Golly take about defensive attitudes, and reading 10x more 
> into a comment
> then what was said, geesh, BTW, Noone looks for reliability 
> more then I.
> NO ONE.
> Later
> Bruce

Yea, I've gathered from your past comments that you definitely give more
than a passing thought to reliability.  And, knowing the little about
electronics that I do, there's certainly some steps that one must go through
in order to ensure that a module or a system is reliable.  *That's* why I'm
so concerned about stuff that looks like it was assembled in someone's
basement.

I've seen some crap come out of the OEMs, that's for sure - I'm sure we all
have.  And in many of the cases, most all of the proper steps were taken,
and things still went wrong.  Now, when few or none of the proper steps are
performed, the chances of things going wrong increases drastically.  

Not only am I concerned about the basic level of engineering, but I'm also
just a bit interested in the quality that I'm getting for my investment.  I
understand that GM can blow millions in developmental costs on a part that
they intend to use in a few million cars, and that the average aftermarket
guy isn't going to get that sort of volume.  But I also understand that we
can't use this as an excuse to "let someone off the hook" when they supply
an underhood module with underrated wiring and non-sealed connectors, for
example.

I hope you understand where I'm coming from on this issue, and that I
certainly wasn't trying to slam you.  Given that, what I said is what I
believe to be true.

Eric Bryant
mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
http://www.novagate.com/~bryante 
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 11:00:22 2001
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Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 14:00:47 -0500 (EST)
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
Subject: Re: EFI control
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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 I'm all for CHEAP! the oem ecms are CHEAP, $35 at the wrecker. they don't come as easy to program as the aftermarket stuff but $965 ( guessing at $1K for a cheap aftermarket ecm) buys alot of my hobby time.



Previously, you (Bruce Plecan) wrote:
{ 
{ No, and Yes,
{ No problem.
{ I think the design and execution of the current pcms is at least elegant.
{ But, it didn't happen over night, and an aftermarket companies have no where
{ near the talent that say GM does.   But, that doesn't mean there can't be
{ other answers for other applications.  All things being Equal, I'd rather
{ forgo pretty packaging.  Pretty like they say is skin deep.  Well executed,
{ reliable, are all seperate issues.
{ Bruce
{ 
{ 
{ From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
{ > Well, it sounds like you think the more robust boxen are over engineered,
{ > where I consider that to be mandatory, as I don't want to walk from pt a
{ to
{ > b.


--
Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 11:03:57 2001
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From: Eric Bryant <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: EFI control
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> No, and Yes,
> No problem.
> I think the design and execution of the current pcms is at 
> least elegant.
> But, it didn't happen over night, and an aftermarket 
> companies have no where
> near the talent that say GM does.  

Fine - if you're going to design an ECU for aftermarket use, I'd at least
expect that you've benchmarked everything you can get your hands on.
There's a lot of history out there to be learned from, if one wants to take
the time (haven't I heard you say nearly the same thing?). 

> But, that doesn't mean 
> there can't be
> other answers for other applications.  All things being 
> Equal, I'd rather
> forgo pretty packaging.  Pretty like they say is skin deep.  
> Well executed,
> reliable, are all seperate issues.

There isn't anything "pretty" about a properly-designed enclosure that
incorporates proper environmental and EMC protection, or a harness that uses
materials and parts that are proper for the job.  A well-built PCB assembly
isn't just "pretty" - a clean design is likely to be more reliable in the
field.  When I look at something like the PCM on my desk, I don't just see a
"pretty" module; I see a module that someone designed for the environment
that it's used in.

This isn't just a problem with the aftermarket guys - the motorcycle OEMs
are horrible in many of these same aspects.

Eric Bryant
mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
http://www.novagate.com/~bryante 
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 11:05:34 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: EFI control
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 14:04:51 -0500 
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OK, I guess I look at the exterior and think if the box looks this bad, 
did they take the time to get the innards right?  You can determine a 
persons work ethic by looking at almost any of their work.  
As far as beauty being skin deep, I don't think that applies to anything 
but human beings, as a general rule.  As far as the harnesses, I can SEE
those on the website, and I KNOW what they are made of.  To be fair though,
it IS VERY difficult for a non-OEM to produce harnesses that meet
OEM-type specs.  Harness suppliers aren't setup to provide quantities lower
than 30,000 or so.  And there is a real dirge of quality weatherproof ECM
connections available.  The only one I am aware of is Packard's metripak 
series, and they are pull to seat (read pain-in-the-*ss to assemble).
All the rest are proprietary, and not for sale to general public.

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 1:40 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: EFI control



No, and Yes,
No problem.
I think the design and execution of the current pcms is at least elegant.
But, it didn't happen over night, and an aftermarket companies have no where
near the talent that say GM does.   But, that doesn't mean there can't be
other answers for other applications.  All things being Equal, I'd rather
forgo pretty packaging.  Pretty like they say is skin deep.  Well executed,
reliable, are all seperate issues.
Bruce


From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> Well, it sounds like you think the more robust boxen are over engineered,
> where I consider that to be mandatory, as I don't want to walk from pt a
to
> b.
> That's what the vehicle is for.  If I misstated that, forgive me.

> From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> Might just cut down a lil on the caffeine.
> Your really trying to mistate what I've said.
> Bruce

> From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> > I don't know about you Bruce, I really don't like it when my vehicle
> breaks
> > down in the middle of nowhere because it's only engineered to 'just good
> > enough'
> > level.  that's what safety factors are for.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 11:15 AM
> > To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > Subject: Re: EFI control
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Ugh, well here we go again, from accel to GM PCMs.  OK, took GM almost
20
> > years to evolve this far.   GM sells what about 18 trillion pcms a
year?.
> > If the new stuff was still a ecm it probably would be in the same box as
> in
> > 82, just the newer stuff has that much more heat, and enironment to deal
> > with.   Things get to where they are also over engineered, and KISS gets
> > completely lost.
> > Bruce
> >
> >
> >
> > > > From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> > > > Subject: Re: EFI control
> > > > Now, there's a selling point,   our's is prettier then brand, x.
> > > > Bruce
> > > Not that I'm a big fan of using fashion to sell parts, but I'm a firm
> > > beliver that there's a certain level of sophistication necessary to
> > survive
> > > in the automotive environment (whether it's underhood or in the
> interior).
> > > Look at the PCM for the LT-1 - it's a really nice piece of equipment,
> with
> > > all the measures necessary to provide reliable operation.  I'm seen
some
> > > aftermarket auto stuff (especially stereo equipment) that's just not
> > capable
> > > of living for long with thermal cycling, shock, etc.
> > > For what it's worth, I'm not familar with the Accel or SDS stuff, so I
> > could
> > > just be talking out of my ass.
> > >
> > > Eric Bryant
> > > mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
> > > http://www.novagate.com/~bryante
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> > >
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 12:12:31 2001
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This started with the use of the word pretty.
Which is cosmetic.  Nothing to do with reliability, or engineering.
Then, in some relies, things went off on tangents, and engineering.
  I mentioned KISS,  which is just that.   Enough to do all that is
"reguired".   You "first" set the standard of what you want (required), and
then go for it.  To in hindsight say something was good or bad to a
different standard then what it was designed for is not at all fair to the
original designer.    While now a C3 looks prehistoric, it is so, only by
todays standards.
   Comparing an aftermarket to an oem ecm, are two different matters.  One's
primary goal is being user friendly, and the other is ham strung by federal
regulations.
   No where have I even implied, reliability is not an issue.   I have used
nothing but oem ecms in my cars and even at that carry a spare and
calibration for it.   With my medical stuff,  I basically have no immune
system, and limited physical endurance,  so getting stranded, can turn
fatally serious for me.
   I never said the PCMs were over engineered, just that it took them years,
to get to this level.   They were also, *forced* to this level of
engineering.   Without goverment mandates, or warranty concerns, the PCMs
would at least software wise be less complicated (well at lest could be).
    I also, keep in mind this is DIY-EFI.   Kludging is allowed, doing
things different from oem is to be encouraged, and, that this an **open**
dialog.   All to often folks see another view as an attack or something.
It's supposed to be the free exchange of ideas, or knowledge.   Every one is
entitled to there own views and opinions.   Switching topics mid
conversation, can be in effect more of an ego thing, then conversational.
The effort to be right about something.
    Earlier today, the one guys mentions, "How would Porsche do it?".
That's is totaly fine, with me, but personally, I'd rather expeiment, and
try my own solution.   To each his own.
Cheers
Bruce

From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> So let's boil this down Bruce, what do you mean?

> From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> Golly take about defensive attitudes, and reading 10x more into a comment
> then what was said, geesh, BTW, Noone looks for reliability more then I.
> NO ONE.
> Later
> Bruce

> From: "Eric Bryant" <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
> > > From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> > > Subject: Re: EFI control
> > > Ugh, well here we go again, from accel to GM PCMs.  OK, took
> > > GM almost 20
> > > years to evolve this far.   GM sells what about 18 trillion
> > > pcms a year?.
> > > If the new stuff was still a ecm it probably would be in the
> > > same box as in
> > > 82, just the newer stuff has that much more heat, and
> > > enironment to deal
> > > with.   Things get to where they are also over engineered,
> > > and KISS gets
> > > completely lost.
> > > Bruce
>
> > Well, I'm an automotive electrical engineer, and I do understand why the
> > requirements have evolved to the point where they're at right now.  If
> > you're only driving your car on the strip and it's being operated from
> temps
> > ranging from, oh, 40 F to 100 F, and only on dry days, then I can see
> where
> > you don't need the level of engineering that an OEM part provides.
> > However, if your car is a daily driver, and you want a module that will
> last
> > many years and work in all sessons, and all conditions, then you really,
> > really do need the level of engineering that the OEMs perform.  Sorry,
but
> > if I'm dropping $3000 on a aftermarket ECU, then I want something that's
> > going to work within the stated operating parameters.  If the vendor
> claims
> > that the part is good for fair-weather use only and shouldn't be used on
a
> > daily driver, fine.  If the vendor is claiming that I can bolt his XYZ
ECU
> > into my car for use as a daily driver, then he had better comprehend the
> > environment and its effects on his module.
> > So, is the average aftermarket part tested for EMC behavior?  No?  So
what
> > happens when I drive past a cell phone tower?  How about thermal shock
> > testing?  No?  Oops, better not go through the car wash on a hot summer
> day.
> > Shock and vibration testing?  Here in Michigan we have huge potholes.
> > I know that I'm going to come off as yet another young engineer who
wants
> to
> > make everything more complex just for the sake of doing so.  It's just
> that
> > I've seen some stuff that doesn't belong in an alarm clock, much less in
a
> > automotive environment where I'm trusting my equipment (and maybe even
my
> > safety) to a piece of junk that wasn't properly engineered.
> > End of rant.  I don't have the right to tell anyone what parts to run in
> > their car - all I can do is set standards for my own stuff.
> > Eric Bryant
> > mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
> > http://www.novagate.com/~bryante

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Other then a true verbal attack, I take nothing as a slam.
I just express, what I think is the best solution, or something I've seen.
Then also, at times say something off the wall to get some feed back about
something that was hashed out along time ago, to see if there are any new
opinions or news on something.
Trouble is sometimes Grumpy gets to keyboard first <g>
Bruce


----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Bryant" <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 1:58 PM
Subject: RE: EFI control


> > From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> > Subject: Re: EFI control
> >
> >
> >
> > Golly take about defensive attitudes, and reading 10x more
> > into a comment
> > then what was said, geesh, BTW, Noone looks for reliability
> > more then I.
> > NO ONE.
> > Later
> > Bruce
>
> Yea, I've gathered from your past comments that you definitely give more
> than a passing thought to reliability.  And, knowing the little about
> electronics that I do, there's certainly some steps that one must go
through
> in order to ensure that a module or a system is reliable.  *That's* why
I'm
> so concerned about stuff that looks like it was assembled in someone's
> basement.
>
> I've seen some crap come out of the OEMs, that's for sure - I'm sure we
all
> have.  And in many of the cases, most all of the proper steps were taken,
> and things still went wrong.  Now, when few or none of the proper steps
are
> performed, the chances of things going wrong increases drastically.
>
> Not only am I concerned about the basic level of engineering, but I'm also
> just a bit interested in the quality that I'm getting for my investment.
I
> understand that GM can blow millions in developmental costs on a part that
> they intend to use in a few million cars, and that the average aftermarket
> guy isn't going to get that sort of volume.  But I also understand that we
> can't use this as an excuse to "let someone off the hook" when they supply

> an underhood module with underrated wiring and non-sealed connectors, for
> example.
>
> I hope you understand where I'm coming from on this issue, and that I
> certainly wasn't trying to slam you.  Given that, what I said is what I
> believe to be true.
>
> Eric Bryant
> mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
> http://www.novagate.com/~bryante
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <Voyager.010207140047.23250G@node141.ott.qnx.com>
Subject: Re: EFI control
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All *WE* need is a user friendly cheap emulator and we're there now.
With all the hacing, and good editors now, just getting away from having to
carry a burner around would about make this a perfect world, IMO
Bruce


From: "Pat Ford" <pford@qnx.com>
> I'm all for CHEAP! the oem ecms are CHEAP, $35 at the wrecker. they don't
come as easy to program as the aftermarket stuff but $965 ( guessing at $1K
for a cheap aftermarket ecm) buys alot of my hobby time.

> Previously, you (Bruce Plecan) wrote:
> { No, and Yes,
> { No problem.
> { I think the design and execution of the current pcms is at least
elegant.
> { But, it didn't happen over night, and an aftermarket companies have no
where
> { near the talent that say GM does.   But, that doesn't mean there can't
be
> { other answers for other applications.  All things being Equal, I'd
rather
> { forgo pretty packaging.  Pretty like they say is skin deep.  Well
executed,
> { reliable, are all seperate issues.
> { Bruce
> {
> {
> { From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> { > Well, it sounds like you think the more robust boxen are over
engineered,
> { > where I consider that to be mandatory, as I don't want to walk from pt
a
> { to
> { > b.

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To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
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On Wed, 7 Feb 2001, Eric Bryant wrote:
> Well, I'm an automotive electrical engineer, and I do understand why the
> requirements have evolved to the point where they're at right now.  If
> you're only driving your car on the strip and it's being operated from temps
> ranging from, oh, 40 F to 100 F, and only on dry days, then I can see where
> you don't need the level of engineering that an OEM part provides.

So, since this all started with the SDS system, I looked, and couldn't
find anything on their site about defined temperature or humidity ranges.
Nothing on vibration or shock.  Nothing about using it in a daily driver.
Indeed, they specifically mention that you have to be careful about
using it in any street application.  They're targeting the low-end
racing market.

A quick check of Electromotive's site came up with the same result.

So, I don't see the aftermarket pushing insufficiently tested products
intended for daily-driver use.  I do see them pushing products intended
for enthusiast use.  Same sort of market where exhaust systems that always
need to be bent to fit are sold.  Same sort of market where air filters
that require regular cleaning and oiling are sold.  Same sort of market
where cams are sold that will just barely pass smog, not comfortably,
and only if the rest of the car is in top tune.  Same sort of market
where warranties are 60 days to a year, not 5 years.

You know, the sort of market that lives where the OEMs can't, with much
thinner margins of safety and quality (and profit).  If the OEMs pushed
the envelope as far as the aftermarket did, we'd all need to do a lot
more maintenance and repair work on our cars.  But the OEMs serve a wider
(sloppier, more careless) market than the aftermarket does.

If you took your current attitude and started an aftermarket company to
produce EFI equipment, you'd quickly find yourself out of business.
Give these people a break.

james montebello

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 13:04:58 2001
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Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 16:05:27 -0500 (EST)
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
Subject: Re: EFI control
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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 Methinks I'll try to take the lead in an emulator design effort, and do a demo disk type thing ( single floppy works on a old 386 laptop. Who else is interested??
DIY_EMU ???

 just quick off the top of my head observations
dual port ram is expensive,
not all the eprom needs to be emulated

 hows about small d/p ram (16K?) and the rest flash.

 that way you can do the tables fast ( just swap out pages on the d/p ram) and the program is in slow to prgram cheaper flash, that will servive power outages?

Ideas and feedback PLEASE (esp from the EE's)

Previously, you (Bruce Plecan) wrote:
{ 
{ All *WE* need is a user friendly cheap emulator and we're there now.
{ With all the hacing, and good editors now, just getting away from having to
{ carry a burner around would about make this a perfect world, IMO
{ Bruce
{ 
{ 
{ From: "Pat Ford" <pford@qnx.com>
{ > I'm all for CHEAP! the oem ecms are CHEAP, $35 at the wrecker. they don't
{ come as easy to program as the aftermarket stuff but $965 ( guessing at $1K
{ for a cheap aftermarket ecm) buys alot of my hobby time.
{ 


--
Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8

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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: EFI control
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 16:15:37 -0500 
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Just goes to show that not everybodies definition of enthusiast is the 
same.  I don't like trailer queens.  I want my cars to be daily drivers
as well as my hot rods.  I have an engine in my truck that is so unusual
that it needed to have an aftermarket ECM to operate.  There simply was 
no other option.  It's intended to be a daily driver, but I'm always
fighting
the aftermarket EFI since it's not weatherproof.

I know exactly what it costs to design and build a hardened ECM for lower
volume applications.  It used factory sensors, was weatherproof, came with a

near-OEM quality harness, was programmable via laptop, etc.  In volumes
of 2000-5000 pcs per year it ran around $250 to produce.  The harness cost
$140 to produce.  That's a pretty tidy profit for the manufacturers if they
price it at $1000.  Heck, they could probably get $1200-1300 for it.  It was
that nice.  

All I am saying is that the aftermarket guys can do better, and there's a
market
for better quality merchandise without paying $4000 for a racing system like
a Motronic.  There's at least two of us here on this dinky little mailing
list.

If you give somebody decent quality merchandise for a decent price, it will
sell
itself and you'll put your competitors out of business.  The fact that there
are
so many little EFI systems out there shows that no-one has done this.

-----Original Message-----
From: James Montebello [mailto:jamesm@lapuwali.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 3:26 PM
To: 'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'
Subject: RE: EFI control


On Wed, 7 Feb 2001, Eric Bryant wrote:
> Well, I'm an automotive electrical engineer, and I do understand why the
> requirements have evolved to the point where they're at right now.  If
> you're only driving your car on the strip and it's being operated from
temps
> ranging from, oh, 40 F to 100 F, and only on dry days, then I can see
where
> you don't need the level of engineering that an OEM part provides.

So, since this all started with the SDS system, I looked, and couldn't
find anything on their site about defined temperature or humidity ranges.
Nothing on vibration or shock.  Nothing about using it in a daily driver.
Indeed, they specifically mention that you have to be careful about
using it in any street application.  They're targeting the low-end
racing market.

A quick check of Electromotive's site came up with the same result.

So, I don't see the aftermarket pushing insufficiently tested products
intended for daily-driver use.  I do see them pushing products intended
for enthusiast use.  Same sort of market where exhaust systems that always
need to be bent to fit are sold.  Same sort of market where air filters
that require regular cleaning and oiling are sold.  Same sort of market
where cams are sold that will just barely pass smog, not comfortably,
and only if the rest of the car is in top tune.  Same sort of market
where warranties are 60 days to a year, not 5 years.

You know, the sort of market that lives where the OEMs can't, with much
thinner margins of safety and quality (and profit).  If the OEMs pushed
the envelope as far as the aftermarket did, we'd all need to do a lot
more maintenance and repair work on our cars.  But the OEMs serve a wider
(sloppier, more careless) market than the aftermarket does.

If you took your current attitude and started an aftermarket company to
produce EFI equipment, you'd quickly find yourself out of business.
Give these people a break.

james montebello

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 13:24:36 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: EFI control
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 16:23:57 -0500
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I have to agree that there is a large market for a good aftermarket system. 
(Well at least 3  on the list so far)
Justin


>From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: RE: EFI control
>Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 16:15:37 -0500
>
>Just goes to show that not everybodies definition of enthusiast is the
>same.  I don't like trailer queens.  I want my cars to be daily drivers
>as well as my hot rods.  I have an engine in my truck that is so unusual
>that it needed to have an aftermarket ECM to operate.  There simply was
>no other option.  It's intended to be a daily driver, but I'm always
>fighting
>the aftermarket EFI since it's not weatherproof.
>
>I know exactly what it costs to design and build a hardened ECM for lower
>volume applications.  It used factory sensors, was weatherproof, came with 
>a
>
>near-OEM quality harness, was programmable via laptop, etc.  In volumes
>of 2000-5000 pcs per year it ran around $250 to produce.  The harness cost
>$140 to produce.  That's a pretty tidy profit for the manufacturers if they
>price it at $1000.  Heck, they could probably get $1200-1300 for it.  It 
>was
>that nice.
>
>All I am saying is that the aftermarket guys can do better, and there's a
>market
>for better quality merchandise without paying $4000 for a racing system 
>like
>a Motronic.  There's at least two of us here on this dinky little mailing
>list.
>
>If you give somebody decent quality merchandise for a decent price, it will
>sell
>itself and you'll put your competitors out of business.  The fact that 
>there
>are
>so many little EFI systems out there shows that no-one has done this.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: James Montebello [mailto:jamesm@lapuwali.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 3:26 PM
>To: 'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'
>Subject: RE: EFI control
>
>
>On Wed, 7 Feb 2001, Eric Bryant wrote:
> > Well, I'm an automotive electrical engineer, and I do understand why the
> > requirements have evolved to the point where they're at right now.  If
> > you're only driving your car on the strip and it's being operated from
>temps
> > ranging from, oh, 40 F to 100 F, and only on dry days, then I can see
>where
> > you don't need the level of engineering that an OEM part provides.
>
>So, since this all started with the SDS system, I looked, and couldn't
>find anything on their site about defined temperature or humidity ranges.
>Nothing on vibration or shock.  Nothing about using it in a daily driver.
>Indeed, they specifically mention that you have to be careful about
>using it in any street application.  They're targeting the low-end
>racing market.
>
>A quick check of Electromotive's site came up with the same result.
>
>So, I don't see the aftermarket pushing insufficiently tested products
>intended for daily-driver use.  I do see them pushing products intended
>for enthusiast use.  Same sort of market where exhaust systems that always
>need to be bent to fit are sold.  Same sort of market where air filters
>that require regular cleaning and oiling are sold.  Same sort of market
>where cams are sold that will just barely pass smog, not comfortably,
>and only if the rest of the car is in top tune.  Same sort of market
>where warranties are 60 days to a year, not 5 years.
>
>You know, the sort of market that lives where the OEMs can't, with much
>thinner margins of safety and quality (and profit).  If the OEMs pushed
>the envelope as far as the aftermarket did, we'd all need to do a lot
>more maintenance and repair work on our cars.  But the OEMs serve a wider
>(sloppier, more careless) market than the aftermarket does.
>
>If you took your current attitude and started an aftermarket company to
>produce EFI equipment, you'd quickly find yourself out of business.
>Give these people a break.
>
>james montebello
>
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Eric Aos is/was working on an emulator, how's it coming?  Hello?  Eric? 
Here's the info he made available for it:

http://www.spiritone.com/~eoa/Cars/EFI/Emulator.htm

Pat Ford wrote:
> 
>  Methinks I'll try to take the lead in an emulator design effort, and do a demo disk type thing ( single floppy works on a old 386 laptop. Who else is interested??
> DIY_EMU ???

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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Subject: Re: Running 8 low impedence injectors on GM ECM using an auxilliary injector driver?
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 17:30:25 -0500
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Doesn't the Accel VIC trigger all 8 injectors at once based on a single
input trigger? Could this cause any driveability problems on the 1990
Camaro/Firebird V8 and other similar GM ECM's? What about bank fire systems?

Jason

> The Accel VIC product is made for exactly what you describe.  Two input
> channels controlling two banks of four low impedance injectors each.  I
like
> the added feature of adjustable pulse trim per injector, in spite of the
> fact that the control architecture remains batch with a VIC.  I think the
> VIC is an excellent product and would not hesitate using external drivers
> (custom or commercial) to control low impedance (or odd gangs) of
injectors
> that are to be triggered by OE style boxes not originally intended for
same.
> This holds true for port fuel or TBI fuel.  Makes good sense as: 1)the
> injectors each get the current that they were intended for, if the
external
> box is done "right", and  2)the ECM/PCM/ECU is relegated to handling
nothing
> more than low current level triggering duties, which won't hurt it's life
> cycle in the least.  Win/Win situation, if you have to use an OE box that
> does not encompass your injector count/type.  I use a number of LM1949
based
> "boxes" in what I play with, and have not yet had any problems.
>
> Walt.
>
>
>
>
> > Has anyone ever tried running 8 low impedance injectors with an
auxiliary
> > injector driver that is triggered by a GM ECM (like a 1990 F-body ECM)?
> > Accel/DFI makes a low impedance injector driver/controller that allows
EFI
> > systems for high impedance injectors to trigger low impudence injectors.
> We
> > have used this system on some of the Accel/DFI applications (before they
> > came out with an ECM that could control low impedance injectors
directly).
> > Anyone see any problems controlling this device from a GM factory ECM?
> Would
> > you use one to control all 8 or two, one to control each bank of 4
> > injectors?
> >
> >
> > Jason
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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You've got at least one interested,  but it would need to support the '749,  so 128K bits.

1 Flash,  1 static ram, muxes and PIC? I can do the PIC stuff,  I have a PICmaster.  It does get more complicated,  but with surface mount it can still be reasonably sized.

On startup,  copy the flash to ram and run the ecu out of ram.  When changes come in the serial port switch the ecu to flash,  make changes to ram,   then switch the ecu back to ram.

May also be able to interleave PIC and ECU cycles in ram,  so the switching and multiplexing isn't necessary,  I'd have to investigate that more.  If possible it would take some signals from the ECU not available on the prom socket.

bs



Pat Ford  wrote:

>
>  Methinks I'll try to take the lead in an emulator design effort, and do a demo disk type thing ( single floppy works on a old 386 laptop. Who else is interested??
> DIY_EMU ???
>
>  just quick off the top of my head observations
> dual port ram is expensive,
> not all the eprom needs to be emulated
>
>  hows about small d/p ram (16K?) and the rest flash.
>
>  that way you can do the tables fast ( just swap out pages on the d/p ram) and the program is in slow to prgram cheaper flash, that will servive power outages?
>
> Ideas and feedback PLEASE (esp from the EE's)
>
> Previously, you (Bruce Plecan) wrote:
> {
> { All *WE* need is a user friendly cheap emulator and we're there now.
> { With all the hacing, and good editors now, just getting away from having to
> { carry a burner around would about make this a perfect world, IMO
> { Bruce
> {
> {
> { From: "Pat Ford" <pford@qnx.com>
> { > I'm all for CHEAP! the oem ecms are CHEAP, $35 at the wrecker. they don't
> { come as easy to program as the aftermarket stuff but $965 ( guessing at $1K
> { for a cheap aftermarket ecm) buys alot of my hobby time.
> {
>
> - --
> Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
> QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
> (613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terence Matthews
> (613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 14:54:38 2001
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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
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Subject: Re: EFI control
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I have a question about this.  I've seen on Crank & Chrome the use of the
Holley Fuel Injection upgrade kit.  Is this also poor quality?  Can someone
with experience in these various EFI systems post a comparison with a good
and bad listing of each.  We;'ve seen Cable/harness/connectors as Bad for
SDS but what's good about it?

Thanks,

John Dammeyer

----- Original Message -----
From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 1:23 PM
Subject: RE: EFI control


> I have to agree that there is a large market for a good aftermarket
system.
> (Well at least 3  on the list so far)
> Justin
>
>
> >From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> >Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> >To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> >Subject: RE: EFI control
> >Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 16:15:37 -0500
> >
> >Just goes to show that not everybodies definition of enthusiast is the
> >same.  I don't like trailer queens.  I want my cars to be daily drivers
> >as well as my hot rods.  I have an engine in my truck that is so unusual
> >that it needed to have an aftermarket ECM to operate.  There simply was
> >no other option.  It's intended to be a daily driver, but I'm always
> >fighting
> >the aftermarket EFI since it's not weatherproof.
> >
> >I know exactly what it costs to design and build a hardened ECM for lower
> >volume applications.  It used factory sensors, was weatherproof, came
with
> >a
> >
> >near-OEM quality harness, was programmable via laptop, etc.  In volumes
> >of 2000-5000 pcs per year it ran around $250 to produce.  The harness
cost
> >$140 to produce.  That's a pretty tidy profit for the manufacturers if
they
> >price it at $1000.  Heck, they could probably get $1200-1300 for it.  It
> >was
> >that nice.
> >
> >All I am saying is that the aftermarket guys can do better, and there's a
> >market
> >for better quality merchandise without paying $4000 for a racing system
> >like
> >a Motronic.  There's at least two of us here on this dinky little mailing
> >list.
> >
> >If you give somebody decent quality merchandise for a decent price, it
will
> >sell
> >itself and you'll put your competitors out of business.  The fact that
> >there
> >are
> >so many little EFI systems out there shows that no-one has done this.
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: James Montebello [mailto:jamesm@lapuwali.com]
> >Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 3:26 PM
> >To: 'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'
> >Subject: RE: EFI control
> >
> >
> >On Wed, 7 Feb 2001, Eric Bryant wrote:
> > > Well, I'm an automotive electrical engineer, and I do understand why
the
> > > requirements have evolved to the point where they're at right now.  If
> > > you're only driving your car on the strip and it's being operated from
> >temps
> > > ranging from, oh, 40 F to 100 F, and only on dry days, then I can see
> >where
> > > you don't need the level of engineering that an OEM part provides.
> >
> >So, since this all started with the SDS system, I looked, and couldn't
> >find anything on their site about defined temperature or humidity ranges.
> >Nothing on vibration or shock.  Nothing about using it in a daily driver.
> >Indeed, they specifically mention that you have to be careful about
> >using it in any street application.  They're targeting the low-end
> >racing market.
> >
> >A quick check of Electromotive's site came up with the same result.
> >
> >So, I don't see the aftermarket pushing insufficiently tested products
> >intended for daily-driver use.  I do see them pushing products intended
> >for enthusiast use.  Same sort of market where exhaust systems that
always
> >need to be bent to fit are sold.  Same sort of market where air filters
> >that require regular cleaning and oiling are sold.  Same sort of market
> >where cams are sold that will just barely pass smog, not comfortably,
> >and only if the rest of the car is in top tune.  Same sort of market
> >where warranties are 60 days to a year, not 5 years.
> >
> >You know, the sort of market that lives where the OEMs can't, with much
> >thinner margins of safety and quality (and profit).  If the OEMs pushed
> >the envelope as far as the aftermarket did, we'd all need to do a lot
> >more maintenance and repair work on our cars.  But the OEMs serve a wider
> >(sloppier, more careless) market than the aftermarket does.
> >
> >If you took your current attitude and started an aftermarket company to
> >produce EFI equipment, you'd quickly find yourself out of business.
> >Give these people a break.
> >
> >james montebello
> >
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
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Production costs are only a small part of the problem.  Have you ever
worked out costs for support, personnel, marketing, distribution, etc.?  

Products, even really good products, don't sell themselves.  This is a
very common misconception, particularly among engineers. 

The higher the volume you're trying to push, the higher your marketing and
support expenses will be.  Then there are liability issues.  The broader
your customer base, the dumber it is, and the dumber your customer base,
the greater your liability exposure.  Lawyers can be really, really nasty.

The general rule of thumb is, to simply break even, you have to charge
3x the total unit cost, even at very large volumes (Sony/GM/IBM level
volumes).  The $390 unit cost you quote for your design means a retail
price of $1200 for *break-even*.  Add a razor-thin 10% profit margin,
and you're looking at $1300 a pop.  About what a full blown SDS or basic
Electromotive system will run.

Now you have to explain to the potential buyers why your unit is so
much better than all those others on the market, and do so in terms
they can understand.  To get 2000+ units per year, you have to sell to
a big market, including lots of ads in various magazines, stumping at
trade shows, schmoozing with the trade press, etc.   All this work for
a grand $250K per year profit, assuming you manage to sell 2000 units
per year.  I'm willing to bet SDS is NOT selling that many.  Note that
none of this has anything to do with designing or building the ECU or
associated wiring itself.  Note that none of this has ANYTHING to do
with the quality of the unit.  You sell based on perceived quality, not
actual quality, particularly as a new entrant into an already hot market.

If you want to built an OEM quality ECU that will mount up to MY car,
be absolutely trouble-free, and will sell for significantly less than any
of the other available units, then I'll be first in line to buy one from
you.  I'll make sure to be early so I grab one before you go bankrupt.
You'll be the last in a long line of like-minded engineers who simply
don't understand the business side of the operation, and think that
quality will sell itself.

james montebello

On Wed, 7 Feb 2001, Shirley, Mark R wrote:

> Just goes to show that not everybodies definition of enthusiast is the 
> same.  I don't like trailer queens.  I want my cars to be daily drivers
> as well as my hot rods.  I have an engine in my truck that is so unusual
> that it needed to have an aftermarket ECM to operate.  There simply was 
> no other option.  It's intended to be a daily driver, but I'm always
> fighting
> the aftermarket EFI since it's not weatherproof.
> 
> I know exactly what it costs to design and build a hardened ECM for lower
> volume applications.  It used factory sensors, was weatherproof, came with a
> 
> near-OEM quality harness, was programmable via laptop, etc.  In volumes
> of 2000-5000 pcs per year it ran around $250 to produce.  The harness cost
> $140 to produce.  That's a pretty tidy profit for the manufacturers if they
> price it at $1000.  Heck, they could probably get $1200-1300 for it.  It was
> that nice.  
> 
> All I am saying is that the aftermarket guys can do better, and there's a
> market
> for better quality merchandise without paying $4000 for a racing system like
> a Motronic.  There's at least two of us here on this dinky little mailing
> list.
> 
> If you give somebody decent quality merchandise for a decent price, it will
> sell
> itself and you'll put your competitors out of business.  The fact that there
> are
> so many little EFI systems out there shows that no-one has done this.

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Subject: Re: EFI control
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Was a lister that had problems with the IAC driver failing (several times).
Repair cost $319 as I recall.
Holley makes great carbs, but IMO is about clueless in EFI.
Note they bought I think it was Cutler EFI for a source to break into the
multiport.   If you read up on Cutler, tehn you can see how they're
thinking.
Try a made up quesstion to their tech line, Hehehehehehehee
Guys I talked to had no clue about EFI.
Truely sad, but about to be expected.
Now, that they have been bought out I just expect things to get even worse
there.
Bruce


----- Original Message -----
From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 5:51 PM
Subject: Re: EFI control


> I have a question about this.  I've seen on Crank & Chrome the use of the
> Holley Fuel Injection upgrade kit.  Is this also poor quality?  Can
someone
> with experience in these various EFI systems post a comparison with a good
> and bad listing of each.  We;'ve seen Cable/harness/connectors as Bad for
> SDS but what's good about it?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John Dammeyer
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 1:23 PM
> Subject: RE: EFI control
>
>
> > I have to agree that there is a large market for a good aftermarket
> system.
> > (Well at least 3  on the list so far)
> > Justin
> >
> >
> > >From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> > >Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > >To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> > >Subject: RE: EFI control
> > >Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 16:15:37 -0500
> > >
> > >Just goes to show that not everybodies definition of enthusiast is the
> > >same.  I don't like trailer queens.  I want my cars to be daily drivers
> > >as well as my hot rods.  I have an engine in my truck that is so
unusual
> > >that it needed to have an aftermarket ECM to operate.  There simply was
> > >no other option.  It's intended to be a daily driver, but I'm always
> > >fighting
> > >the aftermarket EFI since it's not weatherproof.
> > >
> > >I know exactly what it costs to design and build a hardened ECM for
lower
> > >volume applications.  It used factory sensors, was weatherproof, came
> with
> > >a
> > >
> > >near-OEM quality harness, was programmable via laptop, etc.  In volumes
> > >of 2000-5000 pcs per year it ran around $250 to produce.  The harness
> cost
> > >$140 to produce.  That's a pretty tidy profit for the manufacturers if
> they
> > >price it at $1000.  Heck, they could probably get $1200-1300 for it.
It
> > >was
> > >that nice.
> > >
> > >All I am saying is that the aftermarket guys can do better, and there's
a
> > >market
> > >for better quality merchandise without paying $4000 for a racing system
> > >like
> > >a Motronic.  There's at least two of us here on this dinky little
mailing
> > >list.
> > >
> > >If you give somebody decent quality merchandise for a decent price, it
> will
> > >sell
> > >itself and you'll put your competitors out of business.  The fact that
> > >there
> > >are
> > >so many little EFI systems out there shows that no-one has done this.
> > >
> > >-----Original Message-----
> > >From: James Montebello [mailto:jamesm@lapuwali.com]
> > >Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 3:26 PM
> > >To: 'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'
> > >Subject: RE: EFI control
> > >
> > >
> > >On Wed, 7 Feb 2001, Eric Bryant wrote:
> > > > Well, I'm an automotive electrical engineer, and I do understand why
> the
> > > > requirements have evolved to the point where they're at right now.
If
> > > > you're only driving your car on the strip and it's being operated
from
> > >temps
> > > > ranging from, oh, 40 F to 100 F, and only on dry days, then I can
see
> > >where
> > > > you don't need the level of engineering that an OEM part provides.
> > >
> > >So, since this all started with the SDS system, I looked, and couldn't
> > >find anything on their site about defined temperature or humidity range
s.
> > >Nothing on vibration or shock.  Nothing about using it in a daily
driver.
> > >Indeed, they specifically mention that you have to be careful about
> > >using it in any street application.  They're targeting the low-end
> > >racing market.
> > >
> > >A quick check of Electromotive's site came up with the same result.
> > >
> > >So, I don't see the aftermarket pushing insufficiently tested products
> > >intended for daily-driver use.  I do see them pushing products intended
> > >for enthusiast use.  Same sort of market where exhaust systems that
> always
> > >need to be bent to fit are sold.  Same sort of market where air filters
> > >that require regular cleaning and oiling are sold.  Same sort of market
> > >where cams are sold that will just barely pass smog, not comfortably,
> > >and only if the rest of the car is in top tune.  Same sort of market
> > >where warranties are 60 days to a year, not 5 years.
> > >
> > >You know, the sort of market that lives where the OEMs can't, with much
> > >thinner margins of safety and quality (and profit).  If the OEMs pushed
> > >the envelope as far as the aftermarket did, we'd all need to do a lot
> > >more maintenance and repair work on our cars.  But the OEMs serve a
wider
> > >(sloppier, more careless) market than the aftermarket does.
> > >
> > >If you took your current attitude and started an aftermarket company to
> > >produce EFI equipment, you'd quickly find yourself out of business.
> > >Give these people a break.
> > >
> > >james montebello
> > >
> >
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> >
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> > >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 16:17:16 2001
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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10102071454010.2543-100000@james.dev.auctionwatch.com>
Subject: Re: EFI control -- ECON 101
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 16:18:10 -0800
Organization: Automation Artisans Inc.
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I'll add my $0.02 here to support what James is saying.  I think one of the
reasons you see a bunch of wires coming out the hole in the side of the box
with sealant or potting compound around the wires is the sheer cost of
connectors.  Look through the Digikey catalog for panel mounted, water proof
connectors capable of higher amperages and you start to see the cost of the
unit escalate.

You might say,  ah well,  manufacturers buy in volume so they pay less.
There are very few custom or semi-custom manufacturers in the small DIY-EFI
marketplace who can afford to buy connectors in 2000 lot quantities.  Just
imagine each connector with pins is $10.  That's $20,000 in inventory
sitting there.  A microprocessor with Flash memory may also go for $8 to $15
depending on the type.  $15,000 for 1000 units is a lot of money for a small
manufacturer.  If the true cost of components in 1K qty was $250 then we're
talking $250,000.  At 7% interest this is $17,500 per year to just keep the
stuff in stock.  Add warehouse space for 1000 units and it's not unlikely
that just to keep the stuff you need $30,000 per year to hold onto it.

If the units sold for $1000 each the first 40 pay for the cost of having
them in stock.  Of course with the first 40 sold the interest payments drop
because there is $10,000 from the sale of those towards the loan for parts;
now we owe $240,000.

None of the above takes into consideration the cost of labour to sell this
first set of 40 each year.

My guess is that most of the smaller EFI companies build no more than about
100 units at a time.  For boards that have surface mount components they may
have 200 made and populated with the inexpensive parts like resistors and
caps because we tend to buy them in 5K reels.  Then the more expensive
goodies will be assembled by the same guy that also serves as technician,
salesman, accountant and designer.  Hopefully they sell enough to make the
interest payments, pay for the shop space (or the mortgage on their double
garage) and reap enough profit to pay a minor salary.  Some of these smaller
companies usually subsidize their hobby (DIY-EFI) with a real job during the
day or by doing electronic hardware/software design as their 'other ' job.

Regards,

John Dammeyer


----- Original Message -----
From: "James Montebello" <jamesm@lapuwali.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 3:20 PM
Subject: RE: EFI control


>
> Production costs are only a small part of the problem.  Have you ever
> worked out costs for support, personnel, marketing, distribution, etc.?
>
> Products, even really good products, don't sell themselves.  This is a
> very common misconception, particularly among engineers.
>
> The higher the volume you're trying to push, the higher your marketing and
> support expenses will be.  Then there are liability issues.  The broader
> your customer base, the dumber it is, and the dumber your customer base,
> the greater your liability exposure.  Lawyers can be really, really nasty.
>
> The general rule of thumb is, to simply break even, you have to charge
> 3x the total unit cost, even at very large volumes (Sony/GM/IBM level
> volumes).  The $390 unit cost you quote for your design means a retail
> price of $1200 for *break-even*.  Add a razor-thin 10% profit margin,
> and you're looking at $1300 a pop.  About what a full blown SDS or basic
> Electromotive system will run.
>
> Now you have to explain to the potential buyers why your unit is so
> much better than all those others on the market, and do so in terms
> they can understand.  To get 2000+ units per year, you have to sell to
> a big market, including lots of ads in various magazines, stumping at
> trade shows, schmoozing with the trade press, etc.   All this work for
> a grand $250K per year profit, assuming you manage to sell 2000 units
> per year.  I'm willing to bet SDS is NOT selling that many.  Note that
> none of this has anything to do with designing or building the ECU or
> associated wiring itself.  Note that none of this has ANYTHING to do
> with the quality of the unit.  You sell based on perceived quality, not
> actual quality, particularly as a new entrant into an already hot market.
>
> If you want to built an OEM quality ECU that will mount up to MY car,
> be absolutely trouble-free, and will sell for significantly less than any
> of the other available units, then I'll be first in line to buy one from
> you.  I'll make sure to be early so I grab one before you go bankrupt.
> You'll be the last in a long line of like-minded engineers who simply
> don't understand the business side of the operation, and think that
> quality will sell itself.
>
> james montebello
>
> On Wed, 7 Feb 2001, Shirley, Mark R wrote:
>
> > Just goes to show that not everybodies definition of enthusiast is the
> > same.  I don't like trailer queens.  I want my cars to be daily drivers
> > as well as my hot rods.  I have an engine in my truck that is so unusual
> > that it needed to have an aftermarket ECM to operate.  There simply was
> > no other option.  It's intended to be a daily driver, but I'm always
> > fighting
> > the aftermarket EFI since it's not weatherproof.
> >
> > I know exactly what it costs to design and build a hardened ECM for
lower
> > volume applications.  It used factory sensors, was weatherproof, came
with a
> >
> > near-OEM quality harness, was programmable via laptop, etc.  In volumes
> > of 2000-5000 pcs per year it ran around $250 to produce.  The harness
cost
> > $140 to produce.  That's a pretty tidy profit for the manufacturers if
they
> > price it at $1000.  Heck, they could probably get $1200-1300 for it.  It
was
> > that nice.
> >
> > All I am saying is that the aftermarket guys can do better, and there's
a
> > market
> > for better quality merchandise without paying $4000 for a racing system
like
> > a Motronic.  There's at least two of us here on this dinky little
mailing
> > list.
> >
> > If you give somebody decent quality merchandise for a decent price, it
will
> > sell
> > itself and you'll put your competitors out of business.  The fact that
there
> > are
> > so many little EFI systems out there shows that no-one has done this.
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
>
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 16:42:18 2001
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From: Clay B <clayb@sonic.net>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: EFI control
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Just reading thru the comments on aftermarket ECU's and EMC issues,
weather, etc.

I agree that the ECU should be noise, vibration, temperature, water, and
shock tolerant.

I'm sure some mfg's do a better job than others. I would like to point out
that the Autronics SMC is available WATERPROOF, as is their CDI box. I've
bounced my boat over rough water, and left it baking in the sun. I have no
filtering in my power supply lines, and I'm sure the CD wasted spark
ignition and alternator make plenty of noise. They supply water sealed
connectors at "their" end of the harness, and I used GM weatherpack
everywhere else. They use mostly standard GM or Bosch sensors.

I've gotten everything soaking wet, and it hasn't bothered it a bit. Just
one more datapoint...

- Clay


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 16:47:12 2001
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Subject: Re: Running 8 low impedence injectors on GM ECM using an auxilliary 
 injector driver?
References: <000a01c0908c$9c8a3ba0$5ecdfea9@jrh> <008301c090d3$457b94c0$71309d18@pr1.on.wave.home.com> <098401c09155$94abab20$5ecdfea9@jrh>
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"Jason R. Haines" wrote:
 
> Doesn't the Accel VIC trigger all 8 injectors at once based on a single
> input trigger?

Not sure, could be.  No experience with the product.


> Could this cause any driveability problems on the 1990
> Camaro/Firebird V8 and other similar GM ECM's?

That is exactly how the 1990 Camato/Firebird ECMs operate, that is, all 
eight at once.  So the VIC would simply allow you to use low impedance
injectors.


> What about bank fire systems?

Such as?  The early C3 TBIs?

Scot Sealander
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 17:00:50 2001
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From: Jeff Webb <mustang@ufl.edu>
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Subject: Re: gm map sensor
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I've had a chance to play around with the GM MAP sensor data.  I've done
a little comparison of the data and equations that people have posted. 
Here's the URL for the stuff I've been working with.

http://mil.ufl.edu/~jwebb/automotive/sensors/pressure/intake-manifold/gm/data/

The gm/contrib directory has the original data files that were posted.

"1bar.pdf" shows a comparison of Walter Sherwin's Delco equation for the
1-Bar sensor with Richard Wakeling's experimental data for his 1-Bar
sensor.  The curve fit for Richard's data is 

1 Bar: Vout = 5.0 * (0.010597 Kpa + -0.116564) Volts

The slope is very close to Walt's equation but the data is shifted by
0.675128 kPa.  This falls within the 1% tolerence of the sensor.  That's
pretty darn good data, Richard.

I also plotted some other data that someone posted long ago (Model 835
and 460).  The slopes match very well, but there is a much bigger
offset.  My guess is that this calibration was done using gauge
pressure, or something of the sort.  If anyone knows where the data in
"gm/contrib/misc/sensor_data.txt" came from, I'd like to know.

The plots shown in the datasheets of two new delphi 1-bar sensors (found
in "gm/datasheets") also match Walter's equation as well.

"2bar.pdf" shows a comparison of Walt's 2-Bar equation with with
Richard's 2-bar data.  Again, the slope is right on, but there's a
little bigger offset of 2.968627 kPa.  This is probably within the
tolerence of the 2-Bar sensor.

2 Bar: Vout = 5.0 * (0.004980 Kpa + -0.054785) Volts

"3bar.pdf" shows a plot of Richard's 3-bar data.  Since Walt doesn't
have an equation for that, I compared it to the plot shown in the
datasheet of a new delco 3-bar sensor (/gm/datasheets/turbo_...). 
There's quite a bit of difference between the two, so I don't really
think that they are supposed to have the same calibration.  Since
Richard was right on for the 1 and 2-bar sensors, I think his data for
the 3-bar would be good as well.

I'd like to make a repository for sensor information of this type.  If
someone has data they would like to submit, please include a file with
your name, email, and as much information as possible about how the data
was collected.  Things like the equipment used, the calibration method,
what is experimental and what is calculated, etc.  Be especially sure to
include the exact part numbers (and identifiying information) of the
devices you tested.  Richard, if you would send me this info, I would
greatly appreciate it.  No hurry, though.

Thanks again to Walt and Richard for sharing your info.  It will be of
great use to me and others as well.

That's all for now,

Jeff Webb
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Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 20:06:01 -0500
From: Jeff Webb <mustang@ufl.edu>
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How is this thing waterproofed?  Is the case watertight?  What sort of
case would you use?  Can you submerge it?  If anyone has any
suggestions, I'd like to hear 'em.

Does Autronics have a web site where I can see a picture?

Jeff Webb

Clay B wrote:
> 
> Just reading thru the comments on aftermarket ECU's and EMC issues,
> weather, etc.
> 
> I agree that the ECU should be noise, vibration, temperature, water, and
> shock tolerant.
> 
> I'm sure some mfg's do a better job than others. I would like to point out
> that the Autronics SMC is available WATERPROOF, as is their CDI box. I've
> bounced my boat over rough water, and left it baking in the sun. I have no
> filtering in my power supply lines, and I'm sure the CD wasted spark
> ignition and alternator make plenty of noise. They supply water sealed
> connectors at "their" end of the harness, and I used GM weatherpack
> everywhere else. They use mostly standard GM or Bosch sensors.
> 
> I've gotten everything soaking wet, and it hasn't bothered it a bit. Just
> one more datapoint...
> 
> - Clay
> 
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It's available from Summit!!!  TWS

944Technologist wrote:

> The fiberglass intake manifold is interesting.  No heat transfer to the air
> like in an aluminum manifold. Years ago, I was thinking about coating the
> interior of my aluminum manifold with polyester resin but I am not sure it
> would stay for long.
>
> Now, I would like to find a DIY ceramic coating. Something that I can coat
> the interior and exterior of an aluminum intake manifold and bake in a
> conventional "kitchen" oven. I have seen the material on the net but no
> where to buy it. Not in small quantities anyway. Anyone know where it can be
> bought in small quantities?
>
> FR Wilk
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 19:23:05 2001
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From: "944Technologist" <f_wilk@hotmail.com>
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Subject: BOSCH Liscensed or not
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There are many performance EPROM companies. But 95% of there products are
copyrighted to BOSCH. They are only making a few changes to a few tables and
then sticking their copyright on it. It is my opinion that a aftermarket
chip copyright is worthless. That BOSCH was not and does not support the
practice. Any modification to a BOSCH box must be done by BOSCH or its
certified agents. If BOSCH does not follow through with litigation does not
mean that BOSCH is giving permission.

How true is my statement? Are any of you older DIY members aware of any
court cases or of any licensing or royalty. Can anyone fill me in with
article or web sites to look at? I have researched this and even contacted
someone at BOSCH.  Any enlightenment, criticism, or debate would be
appreciated. I just want to know the facts.

FR Wilk
BOSCH ML1.2
http://members.tripod.com/prsch944/dme.htm
8Þ
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 19:21:51 2001
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From: Chris Conlon <synchris@speakeasy.org>
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A couple tangential comments...

At 07:07 AM 2/6/01 +0100, Axel Rietschin wrote:
>From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
>
>> How about the shear fact that if the IAT compensation is internal to the
>> MAF, then the metering allows for heat saturation of the I/C.

What's the time constant on the MAF's temperature correction? The one
*circuit diagram* I saw did temp compensation via a temp sensor (RTD
I think) as one leg of the bridge. Whatever the constant is I bet (hope!)
it's a lot better than the 20sec value Axel gives for other sensors.

>
>What comes in, comes out, no? Less temp, more density, less speed but same
>amount of _air_, or did I miss something?

Yes, you missed a small point. The location of the MAF (before or after
the compressor), in a system that has a significant volume of plumbing
after the compressor *does* make a difference. The reason being the
"air through MAF = air into engine" relationship is only true in steady
state. When the pressure post-compressor is changing, up or down, the
airflow through the MAF is not equal to flow into the engine. Some is
being either pumped up into the plumbing, or delivered from the pumped
up volume into the engine.

I've measured this effect on my supercharged MR2 and it is very real.
It's a very small lag in terms of watching a boost gauge but in terms
of throttle response it's very very noticable... if you have a
differently-responding setup to compare it to anyway.


Questions about turbulence are very valid. An OEM engineer has reported
to me that they flowtest the entire intake system and meter as a unit
to generate each ECU's MAF voltage to airflow lookup table.


>to what extent? T63 constant of automotive air temp sensors I know of (Bosch
>& Marelli) is in the 20s range, meaning it takes about a full minute to get
>an accurate reading, which rule out most 'real-time' control strategies
>based on that value.

I'm guessing that those sensors are designed for measuring ambient temp,
not post-compressor temps?

One thing you can do to greatly sharpen up the response of temp sensors
is to make a first order slope correction. Measure temp (call it C),
calculate dC/dt, and add k * dC/dt to the raw value C. Use this sum as
your "actual" temp. You'll have to do some futzing to get k, but a couple
of datalogs plus a heat gun should get you close fast.

This is lots easier if your temp sensor is a bandgap or t-couple that
reads a voltage directly proportional to absolute temperature, eg. TMP3x
series. If you're using a thermistor you want to linearize the result to
actual degrees before doing the math. The more resolution you have, the
better this works, and the faster/more accurately you can compensate the
value.

A couple of MAP sensors now come with integrated temp sensors. I doubt
their tc is very fast but they might be useful for someone.


   Chris C.

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I use 2 sources.  Summit racing, and Speedway Racing in Lincoln, Nebraska.  Plan to
invest plenty of time in a coating job.

Shannen

Tom Sharpe wrote:
> 
> It's available from Summit!!!  TWS
> 
> 944Technologist wrote:
> 
> > Now, I would like to find a DIY ceramic coating. Something that I can coat
> > the interior and exterior of an aluminum intake manifold and bake in a
> > conventional "kitchen" oven. I have seen the material on the net but no
> > where to buy it. Not in small quantities anyway. Anyone know where it can be
> > bought in small quantities?
> >
> > FR Wilk
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Hi,

This thread has been dead for months. It was active about the time the
system crashed. Are you both just now getting email delivered? Old mail hung
up due to the system crash maybe?

FR Wilk


----- Original Message -----
From: "Shannen Durphey" <Shannen@grolen.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: DIY ceramic coating


> I use 2 sources.  Summit racing, and Speedway Racing in Lincoln, Nebraska.
Plan to
> invest plenty of time in a coating job.
>
> Shannen
>
> Tom Sharpe wrote:
> >
> > It's available from Summit!!!  TWS
> >
> > 944Technologist wrote:
> >
> > > Now, I would like to find a DIY ceramic coating. Something that I can
coat
> > > the interior and exterior of an aluminum intake manifold and bake in a
> > > conventional "kitchen" oven. I have seen the material on the net but
no
> > > where to buy it. Not in small quantities anyway. Anyone know where it
can be
> > > bought in small quantities?
> > >
> > > FR Wilk
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Conlon" <synchris@speakeasy.org>

> >What comes in, comes out, no? Less temp, more density, less speed but
same
> >amount of _air_, or did I miss something?
>
> Yes, you missed a small point. The location of the MAF (before or after
> the compressor), in a system that has a significant volume of plumbing
> after the compressor *does* make a difference. The reason being the
> "air through MAF = air into engine" relationship is only true in steady
> state. When the pressure post-compressor is changing, up or down, the
> airflow through the MAF is not equal to flow into the engine. Some is
> being either pumped up into the plumbing, or delivered from the pumped
> up volume into the engine.

You mean you can get a faster response from the MAF (less lag) when it's
located closer to the engine because the plumbing volume introduces an
additional delay? I didn't think if it at first but I see no problem with
that.

> I've measured this effect on my supercharged MR2 and it is very real.
> It's a very small lag in terms of watching a boost gauge but in terms
> of throttle response it's very very noticable... if you have a
> differently-responding setup to compare it to anyway.

For the above reason, I easily believe it. It's just that the MAF-after-IC
for temp correctness or whathever still is a no-no (or a yes-yes, I mean
before or after the IC and/or compressor is exactly the same thing as far as
air mass in concerned)

On the other hand, faster response is very desirable and it this respect, a
MAP sensor (2ms response time) in the inlet manifold is hard to beat.

> Questions about turbulence are very valid. An OEM engineer has reported
> to me that they flowtest the entire intake system and meter as a unit
> to generate each ECU's MAF voltage to airflow lookup table.

It that respect, the steadiest, less turbulent flow is likely to be found
right after a large volume airbox.

>
>
> >to what extent? T63 constant of automotive air temp sensors I know of
(Bosch
> >& Marelli) is in the 20s range, meaning it takes about a full minute to
get
> >an accurate reading, which rule out most 'real-time' control strategies
> >based on that value.
>
> I'm guessing that those sensors are designed for measuring ambient temp,
> not post-compressor temps?

Air charge temp. They are usually found in the inlet manifold. So called
fast sensors are usually in the 10s range, which still gives us about half a
minute to get a true reading.

> One thing you can do to greatly sharpen up the response of temp sensors
> is to make a first order slope correction. Measure temp (call it C),
> calculate dC/dt, and add k * dC/dt to the raw value C. Use this sum as
> your "actual" temp. You'll have to do some futzing to get k, but a couple
> of datalogs plus a heat gun should get you close fast.

It may be that the OEM ECUs are doing this? Dunno. For NA applications, I
don't think they bother.

> This is lots easier if your temp sensor is a bandgap or t-couple that
> reads a voltage directly proportional to absolute temperature, eg. TMP3x
> series. If you're using a thermistor you want to linearize the result to
> actual degrees before doing the math. The more resolution you have, the
> better this works, and the faster/more accurately you can compensate the
> value.

Definitely. For info, I use a custom-made air temp sensor (using a
Thermometrics FP07 NTC sensing element) for my own engine. This baby has a
time constant of 100ms in still air (7ms in water), just to say I'm _very_
concerned with sensor response :)

> A couple of MAP sensors now come with integrated temp sensors. I doubt
> their tc is very fast but they might be useful for someone.
>
>
>    Chris C.

-- Axel



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> Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 20:06:01 -0500
> From: Jeff Webb <mustang@ufl.edu>
> Subject: Waterproofing
> 
> How is this thing waterproofed?  Is the case watertight?  What sort of
> case would you use?  Can you submerge it?  If anyone has any
> suggestions, I'd like to hear 'em.
> 
> Does Autronics have a web site where I can see a picture

They do a real waterproof case, billet aluminum with O-ring, that is
serviceable (NOT potted). Yes, it can be submerged, it is intended for
marine use.
As an interesting side note, the MAP sensor is internal, gotta run a
hose to the box. Pretty expensive, if you've gone the AN hose route to
seal in the 20 psi boost... 
http://www.turbofast.com.au/autronic/autronic.html

- Clay
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 22:48:43 2001
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Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 22:52:19 -0800
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: Ross Corrigan <280zx@home.com>
Subject: RE: EFI control
In-Reply-To: <C7D667D4FEB0D411AE140002A513CA32A101D3@marmisex01.ecd.etn.
 com>
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At 08:53 AM 2/7/01 , you wrote:
>I don't know about you Bruce, I really don't like it when my vehicle breaks
>down in the middle of nowhere because it's only engineered to 'just good
>enough'
>level.  that's what safety factors are for.

did it break down?? Seems v. heated comments in any case let alone for 
someone who hasn't used SDS's equipment. I know several users going on a 
few years now using it on daily driven turbo cars doing 125hp+/litre and a 
few in California running it on race 510's.  Most of them have played with 
other systems and just came to enjoy the easy adjustability of the SDS and 
fair value in their opinion.  It seems to nicely support some imports down 
south that are doing 1320's in high 8's or low 9's, I don't recall exactly. 
My simple point is that it does seem to work and I wasn't plugging it just 
to help ensure a group got their discount. If friends I trust or myself 
have had good experience with a product I like to support it, as we've all 
had enough bad experiences it's nice to share the good ones which this list 
does so nicely.  I've got the plainest of wires as the few running around 
my engine compartment for over 6 yrs now with no discernable damage and 
once my new EFI is installed I still see no reason to have any problems 
with heat/weather on my wiring.  I haven't seen anyone yet with an 
aftermarket ECU in their engine bay either, if harness is short we extend 
it to reach the cabin, so maybe I'm out of the loop.  SDS will also build 
your harness to whatever length you desire and on a few occasions even 
rebuilt some harnesses for free later after customers needs changed.  If 
anything their web FAQ's and other info are appreciable and have helped way 
more than we'll ever know, as has the pages associated with this and the 
sister lists.




Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada      R200 4.11's available

Of all the things I've lost I miss my mind the most.

mailto:280zx@home.com      ICQ # 11549358
http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg    where a 
Z belongs
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb  7 23:58:02 2001
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Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 23:57:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Roy <spectric@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:EFI control 
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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Hi there 

With reference to non OEM ECU's. I have worked in the
automotive electrical / electronic field for many
years and I must say that in many cases the
aftermarket ECU is far better in quality than the OEM
module, take a look at Motec.  Of the OEM's I would
say Bosch are amongst the best all round and the Ford
EEC the worst. 

                   Roy

--- DIY_EFI Digest <DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@diy-efi.org>
wrote:
> 
> DIY_EFI Digest       Wednesday, February 7 2001     
>  Volume 05 : Number 482
> 
> 
> 
> In this issue:
> 
> 	RE: EFI control
> 	RE: EFI control
> 	RE: EFI control
> 	Re: EFI control
> 	RE: EFI control
> 	RE: EFI control
> 	Re: EFI control
> 	Re: EFI control
> 	Re: EFI control
> 	RE: EFI control
> 	Re: EFI control
> 	RE: EFI control
> 	RE: EFI control
> 
> See the end of the digest for information on
> subscribing to the 
> DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.
> 
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 13:40:59 -0500 
> From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> Subject: RE: EFI control
> 
> I agree fully with this.  The typical aftermarket
> box just doesn't cut it.
> Function maybe at the track, but not in the usual
> daily environment.
> 
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: Eric Bryant [mailto:BRYANTE@ghsp.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 1:13 PM
> To: 'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'
> Subject: RE: EFI control
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I'm an automotive electrical engineer, and I
> do understand why the
> requirements have evolved to the point where they're
> at right now.  If
> you're only driving your car on the strip and it's
> being operated from temps
> ranging from, oh, 40 F to 100 F, and only on dry
> days, then I can see where
> you don't need the level of engineering that an OEM
> part provides.
> 
> However, if your car is a daily driver, and you want
> a module that will last
> many years and work in all sessons, and all
> conditions, then you really,
> really do need the level of engineering that the
> OEMs perform.  Sorry, but
> if I'm dropping $3000 on a aftermarket ECU, then I
> want something that's
> going to work within the stated operating
> parameters.  If the vendor claims
> that the part is good for fair-weather use only and
> shouldn't be used on a
> daily driver, fine.  If the vendor is claiming that
> I can bolt his XYZ ECU
> into my car for use as a daily driver, then he had
> better comprehend the
> environment and its effects on his module.
> 
> So, is the average aftermarket part tested for EMC
> behavior?  No?  So what
> happens when I drive past a cell phone tower?  How
> about thermal shock
> testing?  No?  Oops, better not go through the car
> wash on a hot summer day.
> Shock and vibration testing?  Here in Michigan we
> have huge potholes.  
> 
> I know that I'm going to come off as yet another
> young engineer who wants to
> make everything more complex just for the sake of
> doing so.  It's just that
> I've seen some stuff that doesn't belong in an alarm
> clock, much less in a
> automotive environment where I'm trusting my
> equipment (and maybe even my
> safety) to a piece of junk that wasn't properly
> engineered.
> 
> End of rant.  I don't have the right to tell anyone
> what parts to run in
> their car - all I can do is set standards for my own
> stuff.
> 
> Eric Bryant
> mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
> http://www.novagate.com/~bryante 
> 
> -
>
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>
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 13:52:11 -0500 
> From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> Subject: RE: EFI control
> 
> So let's boil this down Bruce, what do you mean?  
> 
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 1:30 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: EFI control
> 
> 
> 
> Golly take about defensive attitudes, and reading
> 10x more into a comment
> then what was said, geesh, BTW, Noone looks for
> reliability more then I.
> NO ONE.
> Later
> Bruce
> 
> From: "Eric Bryant" <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
> > > From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> > > Subject: Re: EFI control
> > > Ugh, well here we go again, from accel to GM
> PCMs.  OK, took
> > > GM almost 20
> > > years to evolve this far.   GM sells what about
> 18 trillion
> > > pcms a year?.
> > > If the new stuff was still a ecm it probably
> would be in the
> > > same box as in
> > > 82, just the newer stuff has that much more
> heat, and
> > > enironment to deal
> > > with.   Things get to where they are also over
> engineered,
> > > and KISS gets
> > > completely lost.
> > > Bruce
> 
> > Well, I'm an automotive electrical engineer, and I
> do understand why the
> > requirements have evolved to the point where
> they're at right now.  If
> > you're only driving your car on the strip and it's
> being operated from
> temps
> > ranging from, oh, 40 F to 100 F, and only on dry
> days, then I can see
> where
> > you don't need the level of engineering that an
> OEM part provides.
> > However, if your car is a daily driver, and you
> want a module that will
> last
> > many years and work in all sessons, and all
> conditions, then you really,
> > really do need the level of engineering that the
> OEMs perform.  Sorry, but
> > if I'm dropping $3000 on a aftermarket ECU, then I
> want something that's
> > going to work within the stated operating
> parameters.  If the vendor
> claims
> > that the part is good for fair-weather use only
> and shouldn't be used on a
> > daily driver, fine.  If the vendor is claiming
> that I can bolt his XYZ ECU
> > into my car for use as a daily driver, then he had
> better comprehend the
> > environment and its effects on his module.
> > So, is the average aftermarket part tested for EMC
> behavior?  No?  So what
> > happens when I drive past a cell phone tower?  How
> about thermal shock
> > testing?  No?  Oops, better not go through the car
> wash on a hot summer
> day.
> > Shock and vibration testing?  Here in Michigan we
> have huge potholes.
> 
=== message truncated ===


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 01:59:09 2001
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Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 10:39:06 +0100
From: Arnaud Westenberg <arnaud@casema.net>
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Subject: Transistor Ignition question
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Hi,

I have some questions about my motorcycle ignition. It's a transistor
ignition from 1980 for four cylinders with pick up sensors and wasted
spark setup (Suzuki gsx1100 '80). Problem is that one of the two
transistors is broken and I don't have a clue what type it is.

I've tried replacing it with a 'normal' transistor rated at high
voltage, can't remember the voltage exactly but I believe it was around
400V. This worked for a while, although with a less powerfull spark at
low rpm, but like expected it broke again. I guess it couldn't handle
the high levels of voltage and current at the same time?

I've read an application note about IGBTs and I think that such a
transistor might work in the old ignition system. Reading about the
IGBTs protection/operating area makes me quite confident that such a
transistor wouldn't break in this application. Probably IGBT's are
specifically designed for automotive use?

I'd like to know if you think a IGBT would work, how to select one and
where (what kind of store) I can order one without having to buy 10,000
of them. (I'm from the Netherlands).

The only selection criteria I can think of is the basis lead voltage
level at wich the transistor switches, but again I don't know this level
either. I could try to get an indication of this voltage with an
oscilloscope (PC card) provided this voltage isn't influenced by
removing the transistor??

Could someone please talk me through this because a new ignition module
costs around $400 (USD) so there's quite some budget available to find a
suitable transistor? Guess I don't have to mention that I'm not an EE
:-))

Thanks for any help.

Greetings Arnaud
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 02:54:12 2001
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From: "lance" <lmwolrab@prodigy.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Transistor Ignition question
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 02:54:04 -0800
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Is the ignitor box made by Hitachi?  I have a great deal of practical
experience with replacing the drivers in a 1984 FJ1100 Yamaha to use coils
with a lower primary resistance (needed more spark after compression boost).
Way back in 1985, I used an RCA SK series device in a TO220 package with a
300v rating (you need it for back EMF).  It was quite reliable, and this
bike was my daily transportation, so it saw duty rain or shine both in
California and overseas without issues.  Also it appears that the IGBT is
ideal in an ignition application and would be what I would use now.

Lance

P.S.  I agree that Japanese motorcycles have the some of the worst
electronic devices in the motoring world.  Motorcycles also have incredibly
short warranty periods compared to cars...

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Arnaud Westenberg
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 1:39 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Transistor Ignition question


Hi,

I have some questions about my motorcycle ignition. It's a transistor
ignition from 1980 for four cylinders with pick up sensors and wasted
spark setup (Suzuki gsx1100 '80). Problem is that one of the two
transistors is broken and I don't have a clue what type it is.

I've tried replacing it with a 'normal' transistor rated at high
voltage, can't remember the voltage exactly but I believe it was around
400V. This worked for a while, although with a less powerfull spark at
low rpm, but like expected it broke again. I guess it couldn't handle
the high levels of voltage and current at the same time?

I've read an application note about IGBTs and I think that such a
transistor might work in the old ignition system. Reading about the
IGBTs protection/operating area makes me quite confident that such a
transistor wouldn't break in this application. Probably IGBT's are
specifically designed for automotive use?

I'd like to know if you think a IGBT would work, how to select one and
where (what kind of store) I can order one without having to buy 10,000
of them. (I'm from the Netherlands).

The only selection criteria I can think of is the basis lead voltage
level at wich the transistor switches, but again I don't know this level
either. I could try to get an indication of this voltage with an
oscilloscope (PC card) provided this voltage isn't influenced by
removing the transistor??

Could someone please talk me through this because a new ignition module
costs around $400 (USD) so there's quite some budget available to find a
suitable transistor? Guess I don't have to mention that I'm not an EE
:-))

Thanks for any help.

Greetings Arnaud
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 04:09:30 2001
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Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 07:06:45 -0500
From: Shannen Durphey <Shannen@grolen.com>
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References: <OE44XQQez1enAqpfkNs00000f3d@hotmail.com> <3A81F654.FE7A7805@mtco.com> <3A8214F8.C184092F@grolen.com> <OE15arp3SbmousuEAdX00003e8c@hotmail.com>
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Yup, just now getting email delivered.  Not yours, Tom Sharpe's reply though.

Doesn't change the validity of the answer, though. ; )
Shannen

944Technologist wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> This thread has been dead for months. It was active about the time the
> system crashed. Are you both just now getting email delivered? Old mail hung
> up due to the system crash maybe?
> 
> FR Wilk
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Shannen Durphey" <Shannen@grolen.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 7:39 PM
> Subject: Re: DIY ceramic coating
> 
> > I use 2 sources.  Summit racing, and Speedway Racing in Lincoln, Nebraska.
> Plan to
> > invest plenty of time in a coating job.
> >
> > Shannen
> >
> > Tom Sharpe wrote:
> > >
> > > It's available from Summit!!!  TWS
> > >
> > > 944Technologist wrote:
> > >
> > > > Now, I would like to find a DIY ceramic coating. Something that I can
> coat
> > > > the interior and exterior of an aluminum intake manifold and bake in a
> > > > conventional "kitchen" oven. I have seen the material on the net but
> no
> > > > where to buy it. Not in small quantities anyway. Anyone know where it
> can be
> > > > bought in small quantities?
> > > >
> > > > FR Wilk
> > --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 05:32:29 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: EFI control 
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 08:31:46 -0500 
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Notice in one of my other posts, I mentioned Motec (Motronic)
as being one of the good ones, although too expensive for the typical
enthusiast.

-----Original Message-----
From: Roy [mailto:spectric@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 2:58 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re:EFI control 


Hi there 

With reference to non OEM ECU's. I have worked in the
automotive electrical / electronic field for many
years and I must say that in many cases the
aftermarket ECU is far better in quality than the OEM
module, take a look at Motec.  Of the OEM's I would
say Bosch are amongst the best all round and the Ford
EEC the worst. 

                   Roy

--- DIY_EFI Digest <DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@diy-efi.org>
wrote:
> 
> DIY_EFI Digest       Wednesday, February 7 2001     
>  Volume 05 : Number 482
> 
> 
> 
> In this issue:
> 
> 	RE: EFI control
> 	RE: EFI control
> 	RE: EFI control
> 	Re: EFI control
> 	RE: EFI control
> 	RE: EFI control
> 	Re: EFI control
> 	Re: EFI control
> 	Re: EFI control
> 	RE: EFI control
> 	Re: EFI control
> 	RE: EFI control
> 	RE: EFI control
> 
> See the end of the digest for information on
> subscribing to the 
> DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.
> 
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 13:40:59 -0500 
> From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> Subject: RE: EFI control
> 
> I agree fully with this.  The typical aftermarket
> box just doesn't cut it.
> Function maybe at the track, but not in the usual
> daily environment.
> 
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: Eric Bryant [mailto:BRYANTE@ghsp.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 1:13 PM
> To: 'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'
> Subject: RE: EFI control
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I'm an automotive electrical engineer, and I
> do understand why the
> requirements have evolved to the point where they're
> at right now.  If
> you're only driving your car on the strip and it's
> being operated from temps
> ranging from, oh, 40 F to 100 F, and only on dry
> days, then I can see where
> you don't need the level of engineering that an OEM
> part provides.
> 
> However, if your car is a daily driver, and you want
> a module that will last
> many years and work in all sessons, and all
> conditions, then you really,
> really do need the level of engineering that the
> OEMs perform.  Sorry, but
> if I'm dropping $3000 on a aftermarket ECU, then I
> want something that's
> going to work within the stated operating
> parameters.  If the vendor claims
> that the part is good for fair-weather use only and
> shouldn't be used on a
> daily driver, fine.  If the vendor is claiming that
> I can bolt his XYZ ECU
> into my car for use as a daily driver, then he had
> better comprehend the
> environment and its effects on his module.
> 
> So, is the average aftermarket part tested for EMC
> behavior?  No?  So what
> happens when I drive past a cell phone tower?  How
> about thermal shock
> testing?  No?  Oops, better not go through the car
> wash on a hot summer day.
> Shock and vibration testing?  Here in Michigan we
> have huge potholes.  
> 
> I know that I'm going to come off as yet another
> young engineer who wants to
> make everything more complex just for the sake of
> doing so.  It's just that
> I've seen some stuff that doesn't belong in an alarm
> clock, much less in a
> automotive environment where I'm trusting my
> equipment (and maybe even my
> safety) to a piece of junk that wasn't properly
> engineered.
> 
> End of rant.  I don't have the right to tell anyone
> what parts to run in
> their car - all I can do is set standards for my own
> stuff.
> 
> Eric Bryant
> mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
> http://www.novagate.com/~bryante 
> 
> -
>
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 13:52:11 -0500 
> From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> Subject: RE: EFI control
> 
> So let's boil this down Bruce, what do you mean?  
> 
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 1:30 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: EFI control
> 
> 
> 
> Golly take about defensive attitudes, and reading
> 10x more into a comment
> then what was said, geesh, BTW, Noone looks for
> reliability more then I.
> NO ONE.
> Later
> Bruce
> 
> From: "Eric Bryant" <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
> > > From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> > > Subject: Re: EFI control
> > > Ugh, well here we go again, from accel to GM
> PCMs.  OK, took
> > > GM almost 20
> > > years to evolve this far.   GM sells what about
> 18 trillion
> > > pcms a year?.
> > > If the new stuff was still a ecm it probably
> would be in the
> > > same box as in
> > > 82, just the newer stuff has that much more
> heat, and
> > > enironment to deal
> > > with.   Things get to where they are also over
> engineered,
> > > and KISS gets
> > > completely lost.
> > > Bruce
> 
> > Well, I'm an automotive electrical engineer, and I
> do understand why the
> > requirements have evolved to the point where
> they're at right now.  If
> > you're only driving your car on the strip and it's
> being operated from
> temps
> > ranging from, oh, 40 F to 100 F, and only on dry
> days, then I can see
> where
> > you don't need the level of engineering that an
> OEM part provides.
> > However, if your car is a daily driver, and you
> want a module that will
> last
> > many years and work in all sessons, and all
> conditions, then you really,
> > really do need the level of engineering that the
> OEMs perform.  Sorry, but
> > if I'm dropping $3000 on a aftermarket ECU, then I
> want something that's
> > going to work within the stated operating
> parameters.  If the vendor
> claims
> > that the part is good for fair-weather use only
> and shouldn't be used on a
> > daily driver, fine.  If the vendor is claiming
> that I can bolt his XYZ ECU
> > into my car for use as a daily driver, then he had
> better comprehend the
> > environment and its effects on his module.
> > So, is the average aftermarket part tested for EMC
> behavior?  No?  So what
> > happens when I drive past a cell phone tower?  How
> about thermal shock
> > testing?  No?  Oops, better not go through the car
> wash on a hot summer
> day.
> > Shock and vibration testing?  Here in Michigan we
> have huge potholes.
> 
=== message truncated ===


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 06:18:54 2001
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From: Eric Bryant <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: EFI control
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 09:18:16 -0500 
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> From: James Montebello [mailto:jamesm@lapuwali.com]
> Subject: RE: EFI control
> 
> So, since this all started with the SDS system, I looked, and couldn't
> find anything on their site about defined temperature or 
> humidity ranges.
> Nothing on vibration or shock.  Nothing about using it in a 
> daily driver.
> Indeed, they specifically mention that you have to be careful about
> using it in any street application.  They're targeting the low-end
> racing market.
>

Cool.  So, as long as I'm using this ECU on the bench in my air-conditioned
shop, then I should be OK.  No temp or humidity ranges?  I only run my cars
on 68 F days with 20% humidity or less.  Nothing on vibration or shock?
That's ok - race cars don't vibrate, do they?  

I think I might have screwed up with one of my earlier comments, since I
might have implied that relibility isn't a big deal for an "off-road" (read:
race) application.  
 
> A quick check of Electromotive's site came up with the same result.
> 

Add a second company to my list of ones to avoid.

> If you took your current attitude and started an aftermarket 
> company to
> produce EFI equipment, you'd quickly find yourself out of business.
> Give these people a break.

You seem to imply that I want 24K gold on all the connections, a
chrome-plated CNC'd aluminum housing, and personal tech support by two
Playmates.  

What I'm really looking for is an understanding of the automotive
environment, evidence of proper design procedures, thorough validation of
the product, and then some competent manufacturing.  The first one is
mandatory for anyone who wants to build and sell components for automotive
use, and I think it's the easiest one to overlook.  It's fatal, since you
can't design anything without understanding the intended use.  I don't think
I need to state the importantance of the design process.  Validation is easy
to skip, since it's expensive and you can easily fall into the trap of
overreliance on your design process.  Manufacturing is a total bitch at low
volumes, since you're looking at huge volumes (relatively) before you can
even think about contracting a EMS provider.

So, I hope it's clear that I understand the difficulties that the "little
guys" face.  I don't think it's any excuse, though.  And as far as finding
myself out of business - well, MoTeC seems to be doing rather well for
themselves.

Eric Bryant
mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
http://www.novagate.com/~bryante 
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 06:46:33 2001
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From: "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: MAF maximum frequency
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 14:47:58 -0000
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Please can anyone give me any idea what  frequency range would be expected
(max and min) from frequency output type MAF's?

Many thanks in anticipation

Rich

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 07:00:15 2001
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From: "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Re: Transistor Ignition question
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 15:01:28 -0000
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A good general purpose ignition driver device is Motorola (ON Semiconductor)
IGBT device MGP20N40CL.
It is internally clamped to 400V max with gate overvoltage protection
integrated. It is capable of switching 20Amps at 400V max (internally
clamped) collector voltage. It can also be driven at the gate by 5V logic.
Package style TO220.
Available in UK and probably Europe from Farnell - www.farnell.com - part
number 300-5732, price approx. 4.50 UKP
Hope this helps

Rich

>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
>Behalf Of Arnaud Westenberg
>Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 1:39 AM
>To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>Subject: Transistor Ignition question
>
>
>Hi,
>
>I have some questions about my motorcycle ignition. It's a transistor
>ignition from 1980 for four cylinders with pick up sensors and wasted
>spark setup (Suzuki gsx1100 '80). Problem is that one of the two
>transistors is broken and I don't have a clue what type it is.
>
>I've tried replacing it with a 'normal' transistor rated at high
>voltage, can't remember the voltage exactly but I believe it was around
>400V. This worked for a while, although with a less powerfull spark at
>low rpm, but like expected it broke again. I guess it couldn't handle
>the high levels of voltage and current at the same time?
>
>I've read an application note about IGBTs and I think that such a
>transistor might work in the old ignition system. Reading about the
>IGBTs protection/operating area makes me quite confident that such a
>transistor wouldn't break in this application. Probably IGBT's are
>specifically designed for automotive use?
>
>I'd like to know if you think a IGBT would work, how to select one and
>where (what kind of store) I can order one without having to buy 10,000
>of them. (I'm from the Netherlands).
>
>The only selection criteria I can think of is the basis lead voltage
>level at wich the transistor switches, but again I don't know this level
>either. I could try to get an indication of this voltage with an
>oscilloscope (PC card) provided this voltage isn't influenced by
>removing the transistor??
>
>Could someone please talk me through this because a new ignition module
>costs around $400 (USD) so there's quite some budget available to find a
>suitable transistor? Guess I don't have to mention that I'm not an EE
>:-))
>
>Thanks for any help.
>
>Greetings Arnaud


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Subject: Re: EFI control
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How many here have had an aftermarket ECU crap out?

Who is willing to start a company, build a well-designed product, provide
tech support, as well as provide a knowledge base for various auto
installs?  You will need to sell your product at low prices, since you're
the new guy on the block.  If you are willing to do so, please email me
with pricing information.  I can make a deposit immediately.

I know the engineers have spoken.  I am an engineer, too, but I also know
an engineer does not sell products.  No sale = No profit = No job = No
ECU.  I agree with the quality issues presented, but in my book, you keep
on doing what you're doing until someone else comes along and kicks your
ass doing it better.  Then you quit and get another job.  Until something
better than my $650 Wolf 3D engine management system comes along, I stick
with what I have.

:(


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 09:17:55 2001
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When replacing the bad part it all depends on transistor used.
It would be verz helpful if he could include schematics of what was near the
broken part.
Then, one might be able to guess what was used originally. BTW: Does originnaly
used transistor have
some marking on it ?

I have done one or two designs for our magazine and I have to say that modern
FETs rule here.
Only drawback is necessity to have 10V voltage levels just to drive them, BUT:

- modern FET can live through overvoltage spikes, if energy amount is
reasonable, even repetitively.
So your 600V FET will simply clamp occasional spikes over 600V with no harm
done, if energy of the spike
would not meltdown the silicon !
- they can turn on and off VERY fast- which translates to very high induced
voltages and
very reliable spark. IIRC mine was able to switch in some 15 ns!
-they have inherent antiparallel diode which prevents them from the oposite
polarity inductive kick of the ignition coil...
- modern FETs have very low resistance when fully on, so power dissipation is
minimal.

IGBTs are meant to reach higher current densities than simple FETs, but they are
much slower
and can suffer from bipolar illnesses. For simple ignition coils they are
unneccesary, anyway.

Regards,

Branko.

BTW: I'm thinking about doing whole thing again and writing an article about it.

So, I would like to know, what are generally required properties of these things
(cylinder numbers,
internal calculation of advance angle etc.
Is there any demand for these things nowadays ?




Rich M wrote:

> A good general purpose ignition driver device is Motorola (ON Semiconductor)
> IGBT device MGP20N40CL.
> It is internally clamped to 400V max with gate overvoltage protection
> integrated. It is capable of switching 20Amps at 400V max (internally
> clamped) collector voltage. It can also be driven at the gate by 5V logic.
> Package style TO220.
> Available in UK and probably Europe from Farnell - www.farnell.com - part
> number 300-5732, price approx. 4.50 UKP
> Hope this helps
>
> Rich
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> >Behalf Of Arnaud Westenberg
> >Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 1:39 AM
> >To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> >Subject: Transistor Ignition question
> >
> >
> >Hi,
> >
> >I have some questions about my motorcycle ignition. It's a transistor
> >ignition from 1980 for four cylinders with pick up sensors and wasted
> >spark setup (Suzuki gsx1100 '80). Problem is that one of the two
> >transistors is broken and I don't have a clue what type it is.
> >
> >I've tried replacing it with a 'normal' transistor rated at high
> >voltage, can't remember the voltage exactly but I believe it was around
> >400V. This worked for a while, although with a less powerfull spark at
> >low rpm, but like expected it broke again. I guess it couldn't handle
> >the high levels of voltage and current at the same time?
> >
> >I've read an application note about IGBTs and I think that such a
> >transistor might work in the old ignition system. Reading about the
> >IGBTs protection/operating area makes me quite confident that such a
> >transistor wouldn't break in this application. Probably IGBT's are
> >specifically designed for automotive use?
> >
> >I'd like to know if you think a IGBT would work, how to select one and
> >where (what kind of store) I can order one without having to buy 10,000
> >of them. (I'm from the Netherlands).
> >
> >The only selection criteria I can think of is the basis lead voltage
> >level at wich the transistor switches, but again I don't know this level
> >either. I could try to get an indication of this voltage with an
> >oscilloscope (PC card) provided this voltage isn't influenced by
> >removing the transistor??
> >
> >Could someone please talk me through this because a new ignition module
> >costs around $400 (USD) so there's quite some budget available to find a
> >suitable transistor? Guess I don't have to mention that I'm not an EE
> >:-))
> >
> >Thanks for any help.
> >
> >Greetings Arnaud
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 10:42:37 2001
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Rich M wrote:
> 
> A good general purpose ignition driver device is Motorola (ON Semiconductor)
> IGBT device MGP20N40CL.
> It is internally clamped to 400V max with gate overvoltage protection
> integrated. It is capable of switching 20Amps at 400V max (internally
> clamped) collector voltage. It can also be driven at the gate by 5V logic.
> Package style TO220.
> Available in UK and probably Europe from Farnell - www.farnell.com - part
> number 300-5732, price approx. 4.50 UKP
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Rich M wrote:
> 
> A good general purpose ignition driver device is Motorola (ON Semiconductor)
> IGBT device MGP20N40CL.
> It is internally clamped to 400V max with gate overvoltage protection
> integrated. It is capable of switching 20Amps at 400V max (internally
> clamped) collector voltage. It can also be driven at the gate by 5V logic.
> Package style TO220.
> Available in UK and probably Europe from Farnell - www.farnell.com - part
> number 300-5732, price approx. 4.50 UKP

OK, WHO PRESSED THAT SEND BUTTON?

Sorry....

Thanks Rich,

I'll try that one and see how it works.

Thanks again.

Arnaud
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 10:57:33 2001
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On Thu, 8 Feb 2001, Eric Bryant wrote:
> What I'm really looking for is an understanding of the automotive
> environment, evidence of proper design procedures, thorough validation of
> the product, and then some competent manufacturing.  The first one is
> mandatory for anyone who wants to build and sell components for automotive
> use, and I think it's the easiest one to overlook.  It's fatal, since you
> can't design anything without understanding the intended use.  I don't think
> I need to state the importantance of the design process.  Validation is easy
> to skip, since it's expensive and you can easily fall into the trap of
> overreliance on your design process.  Manufacturing is a total bitch at low
> volumes, since you're looking at huge volumes (relatively) before you can
> even think about contracting a EMS provider.
> 
> So, I hope it's clear that I understand the difficulties that the "little
> guys" face.  I don't think it's any excuse, though.  And as far as finding
> myself out of business - well, MoTeC seems to be doing rather well for
> themselves.

MoTec also charges 3-4x what SDS, Electromotive, Wolf, Haltec,
etc. charge.  Their market is for high-end systems, like well-funded
racing teams or CEOs who like to get their hands dirty.  I don't know
too many individuals who are willing or able to pay $4000 for an ECU,
then another $1000-2000 for harnesses, sensors, etc.  Obviously, since
MoTec and Pi Systems are solvent, there's a sufficient market for them
at the high end.  They're the Ferrari of the ECU market.

I don't own a Ferrari.  Do you?

My main point is I think you're giving the low-end manufacturers
short shrift.  They very well understand the harsh environment they're
working in.  Not only do they have to worry about EMI, but lawyers,
angry customers, regulators, and the tax man.  You're only concerning
yourself with the first item on that list.  Working for a large
company, you have that luxury.  They have to worry about the whole list.
They have to produce a product that is "good enough" or they won't sell.
Anything better than good enough costs extra money, and since they can't
charge any more for their products than their competitors, they have to
eat those costs.  Money out of their pockets.

I happen to know personally the proprietor of the company that sells the
Wolf system.  It sells for about $800US.  He's not making a lot of money.
He's perfectly happy doing this, since it's what he loves, and he's
never had any money (former academic).  His stuff works well enough
that he has a number of satisfied customers, many of whom drive cars
using his products across the Australian deserts (Wolf is in Melbourne).
There are others who use his products in wet New England.  Seems to be
good enough for them, in drastically different environments, in the
real world.

So, really, even though you don't realize it, you really are asking
for 24K gold-plated connectors, and tech support by the Playmate of the
Month, or, rather, for things that end up being about as useful in the
real world.  I think you're falling into the common trap of deciding
that only the very best is good enough.  There's nothing particularly
wrong with that attitude.  That's the attitude they take at Rolls-Royce,
and Ferrari, and in most aerospace applications.  When you have the
money to spend, spend it on quality.  Absolutely the right thing to do.
But there is a level of quality beyond which the cost exceeds the benefit.
The high-end guys, like Motec, are higher up on that curve.  The low-end
guys, like Wolf, live farther down the hill.  You pays your money...

james montebello

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 11:43:42 2001
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Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 11:32:50 -0800
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We''ve been having a tough time with noise on the triggering signal on our home
build efi system for formula sae....we're now considering either a hall effect
or variable reluctance setup directly on the crankshaft, and we're very space
limited.  Does anyone have any comments on the two systems, and perhaps part #s?

S. prince

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 11:47:03 2001
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Subject: Re: Transistor Ignition question
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If you just want a simple fet with no current limiting, and you want 5 volt control,
consider the international rectifier logic level hexfets. Their web site has a
pretty neat setup for selecting automotive fets and they're pretty good about
samples.
S. Prince

Branko Badrljica wrote:

> When replacing the bad part it all depends on transistor used.
> It would be verz helpful if he could include schematics of what was near the
> broken part.
> Then, one might be able to guess what was used originally. BTW: Does originnaly
> used transistor have
> some marking on it ?
>
> I have done one or two designs for our magazine and I have to say that modern
> FETs rule here.
> Only drawback is necessity to have 10V voltage levels just to drive them, BUT:
>
> - modern FET can live through overvoltage spikes, if energy amount is
> reasonable, even repetitively.
> So your 600V FET will simply clamp occasional spikes over 600V with no harm
> done, if energy of the spike
> would not meltdown the silicon !
> - they can turn on and off VERY fast- which translates to very high induced
> voltages and
> very reliable spark. IIRC mine was able to switch in some 15 ns!
> -they have inherent antiparallel diode which prevents them from the oposite
> polarity inductive kick of the ignition coil...
> - modern FETs have very low resistance when fully on, so power dissipation is
> minimal.
>
> IGBTs are meant to reach higher current densities than simple FETs, but they are
> much slower
> and can suffer from bipolar illnesses. For simple ignition coils they are
> unneccesary, anyway.
>
> Regards,
>
> Branko.
>
> BTW: I'm thinking about doing whole thing again and writing an article about it.
>
> So, I would like to know, what are generally required properties of these things
> (cylinder numbers,
> internal calculation of advance angle etc.
> Is there any demand for these things nowadays ?
>
> Rich M wrote:
>
> > A good general purpose ignition driver device is Motorola (ON Semiconductor)
> > IGBT device MGP20N40CL.
> > It is internally clamped to 400V max with gate overvoltage protection
> > integrated. It is capable of switching 20Amps at 400V max (internally
> > clamped) collector voltage. It can also be driven at the gate by 5V logic.
> > Package style TO220.
> > Available in UK and probably Europe from Farnell - www.farnell.com - part
> > number 300-5732, price approx. 4.50 UKP
> > Hope this helps
> >
> > Rich
> >
> > >-----Original Message-----
> > >From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> > >Behalf Of Arnaud Westenberg
> > >Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 1:39 AM
> > >To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > >Subject: Transistor Ignition question
> > >
> > >
> > >Hi,
> > >
> > >I have some questions about my motorcycle ignition. It's a transistor
> > >ignition from 1980 for four cylinders with pick up sensors and wasted
> > >spark setup (Suzuki gsx1100 '80). Problem is that one of the two
> > >transistors is broken and I don't have a clue what type it is.
> > >
> > >I've tried replacing it with a 'normal' transistor rated at high
> > >voltage, can't remember the voltage exactly but I believe it was around
> > >400V. This worked for a while, although with a less powerfull spark at
> > >low rpm, but like expected it broke again. I guess it couldn't handle
> > >the high levels of voltage and current at the same time?
> > >
> > >I've read an application note about IGBTs and I think that such a
> > >transistor might work in the old ignition system. Reading about the
> > >IGBTs protection/operating area makes me quite confident that such a
> > >transistor wouldn't break in this application. Probably IGBT's are
> > >specifically designed for automotive use?
> > >
> > >I'd like to know if you think a IGBT would work, how to select one and
> > >where (what kind of store) I can order one without having to buy 10,000
> > >of them. (I'm from the Netherlands).
> > >
> > >The only selection criteria I can think of is the basis lead voltage
> > >level at wich the transistor switches, but again I don't know this level
> > >either. I could try to get an indication of this voltage with an
> > >oscilloscope (PC card) provided this voltage isn't influenced by
> > >removing the transistor??
> > >
> > >Could someone please talk me through this because a new ignition module
> > >costs around $400 (USD) so there's quite some budget available to find a
> > >suitable transistor? Guess I don't have to mention that I'm not an EE
> > >:-))
> > >
> > >Thanks for any help.
> > >
> > >Greetings Arnaud
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
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--
STEWART PRINCE

PROFESSOR, MECHANICAL ENGINEERING

CALIFORNIA STATE UNIVERSITY, NORTHRIDGE


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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
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Subject: RE: EFI control
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 16:39:34 -0500 
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Maybe the low end manufacturers do understand the environment, and just
choose not to build to that spec.  I don't know.  What I do know is that
it's not good enough around here.  I know it can be done, since I
participated
in such an effort.  I disagree that you can't charge more than your
competitors,
you can if you provide a better product.  Motec does this.  Perhaps this
argument should be that there's no nice middle ground of systems, which
have complete weatherproofing, high quality harnesses, etc.  24K gold
plating
is not necessary when you weatherproof properly.

I am not looking for a ferrari of controllers, just a middle-road mercedes.

Please define 'real world'.  Do you mean that you don't really need EMI
testing?
You don't really need corrosion resistance?  Aftermarket EFI is only for
racers
and weekend hobby cars?  Bull puckey.

There is a market for these features.  No one seems to be in it.  If you 
come back and say Motec, I say - I don't need Milspec connectors and armored
harnesses.
I don't need a box you can drop off the eiffel tower and have it survive.  
I need an OEM quality box that has OEM quality connections, that I can
program with a laptop on DOS/UNIX software, and buy for ~$1500 or so, out
the door.

And I can't comment on the Wolf system, I've never seen or heard of it.
The argument started on the quality of the SDS system's wiring.  That was my
beef,
it's not good enough for it to cost $1000.

And I disagree with someones' comment that engineering types don't have a
grip on 
marketing/sales.  You can teach an engineer to market and sell product, you
cannot teach
a salesman to engineer something, unless he's already smart enough to get an
engineering 
degree on his own.

-----Original Message-----
From: James Montebello [mailto:jamesm@lapuwali.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 1:54 PM
To: 'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'
Subject: RE: EFI control

MoTec also charges 3-4x what SDS, Electromotive, Wolf, Haltec,
etc. charge.  Their market is for high-end systems, like well-funded
racing teams or CEOs who like to get their hands dirty.  I don't know
too many individuals who are willing or able to pay $4000 for an ECU,
then another $1000-2000 for harnesses, sensors, etc.  Obviously, since
MoTec and Pi Systems are solvent, there's a sufficient market for them
at the high end.  They're the Ferrari of the ECU market.

I don't own a Ferrari.  Do you?

My main point is I think you're giving the low-end manufacturers
short shrift.  They very well understand the harsh environment they're
working in.  Not only do they have to worry about EMI, but lawyers,
angry customers, regulators, and the tax man.  You're only concerning
yourself with the first item on that list.  Working for a large
company, you have that luxury.  They have to worry about the whole list.
They have to produce a product that is "good enough" or they won't sell.
Anything better than good enough costs extra money, and since they can't
charge any more for their products than their competitors, they have to
eat those costs.  Money out of their pockets.

I happen to know personally the proprietor of the company that sells the
Wolf system.  It sells for about $800US.  He's not making a lot of money.
He's perfectly happy doing this, since it's what he loves, and he's
never had any money (former academic).  His stuff works well enough
that he has a number of satisfied customers, many of whom drive cars
using his products across the Australian deserts (Wolf is in Melbourne).
There are others who use his products in wet New England.  Seems to be
good enough for them, in drastically different environments, in the
real world.

So, really, even though you don't realize it, you really are asking
for 24K gold-plated connectors, and tech support by the Playmate of the
Month, or, rather, for things that end up being about as useful in the
real world.  I think you're falling into the common trap of deciding
that only the very best is good enough.  There's nothing particularly
wrong with that attitude.  That's the attitude they take at Rolls-Royce,
and Ferrari, and in most aerospace applications.  When you have the
money to spend, spend it on quality.  Absolutely the right thing to do.
But there is a level of quality beyond which the cost exceeds the benefit.
The high-end guys, like Motec, are higher up on that curve.  The low-end
guys, like Wolf, live farther down the hill.  You pays your money...

james montebello

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 14:06:26 2001
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From: "Will Reeve" <will@reeve.org.uk>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: GM MAP pinouts?
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 22:06:20 -0000
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Hi all,
I have acquired a GM MAP sensor for some diy manifold pressure measurements,
it's a three pin device with the numbers 3372, S97101 on it. Most web pages
say the pinouts are 5v, Signal, 0v. There is an identifying polarisation lug
next to one of the end pins, does anyone know if this pin is 5v or 0v? Or
are there any measurements I can make to distinguish the 0v and 5v pins?

Will

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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: vr vs hall
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 17:11:28 -0500
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Without a whole lot more engine info., kinda hard to mention particular
bits.

The reluctor types are an A/C generator so the have some built in advance
that might be a problem (wayy too much advance at high rpm).
Halls on the other hand are fixed.   well, maybe a lil movement, but
basically where every the shutter is, that's the signal point
Bruce




> We''ve been having a tough time with noise on the triggering signal on our
home
> build efi system for formula sae....we're now considering either a hall
effect
> or variable reluctance setup directly on the crankshaft, and we're very
space
> limited.  Does anyone have any comments on the two systems, and perhaps
part #s?
> S. prince

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 14:32:29 2001
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From: "James Ballenger" <vtjballeng@yifan.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: EFI control
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 17:31:46 -0500
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	A lot of teams in Formula SAE are putting this system through pretty
extreme racing conditions and a lot of time on the equipment and have had
great results.  Hopefully they and electromotive will be updating their
harness in the near future (I hear they will).  The Haltech harness is a
fairly nice modular piece that just pops on and off.  When it all boils down
in racing, having a strong, reliable and modular connector harness is
extremely important and can beat products with a better package in other
areas.

James Ballenger

>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
>Behalf Of Shirley, Mark R
>Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 8:17 AM
>To: 'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'
>Subject: RE: EFI control
>
>
>The SDS stuff has such a cheesy, homemade look to it, and it
>costs more than
>an Accel system!
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ross Corrigan [mailto:280zx@home.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 12:19 AM
>To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>Subject: Re: EFI control
>
>
>if you decide on the SDS system www.sdsefi.com or similar a
>friend is doing
>a group buy right now at 20% off, they're literally sending
>money already
>to him and hope to place all orders (he's doing all the
>legwork) by next
>wednesday if he has enough dough in by then for them to grant 20%
>
>if you've done your homework and know what you want email
>mailto:mike@fonebooth.com
>who's doing the groupbuy
>
>for any potential canadian buyers you can have additional tax
>savings on
>top of that.....
>
>no affiliation with sds, just keeping the word out as I'm not
>sure if they
>have all the buyers they need for 20%, they were short one
>last I heard
>with 3 other 'expected' to sign up
>
>
>
>At 05:45 PM 2/6/01 , keith hansen wrote:
>
>
>>I'm building a Fiberglass dune-buggy with a 2.0l ford motor (pinto)
>>
>>I am looking for an inexpensive way to control fuel
>injectors, either by
>>adapting a factory computer, building my own computer "brain" or
>>purchasing an aftermarket unit.
>>
>>Does anyone have a workable schematic for building my own EFI
>controller?
>>
>>Or, does anyone know of an aftermarket unit I can get my hands on?
>>_________________________________________________________________
>>Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>>
>>--------------------------------------------------------------
>-------------
>-
>>To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
>quotes)
>>in the body of a message (not the subject) to
>majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
>Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada      R200 4.11's available
>
>Of all the things I've lost I miss my mind the most.
>
>mailto:280zx@home.com      ICQ # 11549358
>http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jp
>g    where a
>Z belongs
>---------------------------------------------------------------
>-------------
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>

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Subject: RE: vr vs hall
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Ed Lansinger had a similar problem with his teams SAE racer. He solved the
problem by routing the mag pickup lines through inline coaxial capacitors
soldered to the ECM case. The article appeared in 3 installments in circuit
cellar magazine issue #62/63/64 Sept/Oct/Nov This is the only Email I have
for Ed is    lansie@rpi.edu.    

                                                                    Take
Care 
 
Don

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Bruce Plecan [SMTP:nacelp@bright.net]
> Sent:	Thursday, February 08, 2001 4:11 PM
> To:	diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject:	Re: vr vs hall
> 
> 
> Without a whole lot more engine info., kinda hard to mention particular
> bits.
> 
> The reluctor types are an A/C generator so the have some built in advance
> that might be a problem (wayy too much advance at high rpm).
> Halls on the other hand are fixed.   well, maybe a lil movement, but
> basically where every the shutter is, that's the signal point
> Bruce
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > We''ve been having a tough time with noise on the triggering signal on
> our
> home
> > build efi system for formula sae....we're now considering either a hall
> effect
> > or variable reluctance setup directly on the crankshaft, and we're very
> space
> > limited.  Does anyone have any comments on the two systems, and perhaps
> part #s?
> > S. prince
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 14:57:36 2001
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On Thu, 8 Feb 2001, Shirley, Mark R wrote:
> And I can't comment on the Wolf system, I've never seen or heard of it.
> The argument started on the quality of the SDS system's wiring.  That was my
> beef, it's not good enough for it to cost $1000.

Fine.  Don't buy it.  Lots of people do and are perfectly happy with it.
If you're not, then buy something else, or build something else.
Ragging on SDS for building a product that fills a market niche
at a price that people are perfectly willing to pay is unwarranted.
If you're so unhappy about it, then I invite you to compete with them,
so you can discover just how badly they're ripping everyone off with
their overpriced, underengineered junk (that's sarcasm, btw).

As I said before, please build an ECU that meets the quality standards of
a big OEM and sell it for the same price as SDS.  Really.  You'll bankrupt
yourself, but a few lucky people will get a nice new ECU cheap at your
expense before you run out of money.


> And I disagree with someones' comment that engineering types don't have a
> grip on marketing/sales.  You can teach an engineer to market and sell 
> product, you cannot teach a salesman to engineer something, unless he's 
> already smart enough to get an engineering degree on his own.

That was my comment.

I'm also an engineer, but I'm not so arrogant as to think that all people
involved in the marketing and sales sides are idiots.  There are plenty
of small business run by an engineer that's also serving as salesman,
accountant, support, etc.  There are plenty of salesmen out there
with engineering degrees.  There are plenty of engineers with MBAs.
There are also plenty of engineers (esp. at big engineering companies)
who haven't a clue about how to survive as a small businessman.

james montebello

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 15:03:56 2001
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From: "James Ballenger" <vtjballeng@yifan.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: vr vs hall
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 18:03:10 -0500
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	How are you trying to get your signal?  You could use the stock Honda setup
(assuming your CBR F 600 is similar to the F2,F3,F4 setups I have worked
with) and take it's reluctor signal.  You could also make your own mag
sensor timing wheel or buy on on the market... I have several designs and
wheels that work up to 14,100 sitting in my shop.  The one that has worked
the best for our team has been a 2 channel hall effect sensor that works
with a timing wheel with two magnets embedded 180 degrees apart from
eachother.

James Ballenger
vtjballeng@yifan.net

PS - if you want more detail as to the design criteria and manufacturing of
parts, etc please email me off the list.

>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
>Behalf Of Stewart Prince
>Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 2:33 PM
>To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>Subject: vr vs hall
>
>
>We''ve been having a tough time with noise on the triggering
>signal on our home
>build efi system for formula sae....we're now considering
>either a hall effect
>or variable reluctance setup directly on the crankshaft, and
>we're very space
>limited.  Does anyone have any comments on the two systems,
>and perhaps part #s?
>
>S. prince
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------
>-------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 15:07:14 2001
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Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 18:07:00 -0500
From: Jeff Webb <mustang@ufl.edu>
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Subject: Re: GM MAP pinouts?
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Will,

I don't know about your particular model, but the ones I have are
labeled as A, B, and C.

Look at:

  http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/component_info/sensors.html

This states that

  Pin A -- Ground 
  Pin B -- Sensor output 
  Pin C -- +5 volts 

Jeff Webb


Will Reeve wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> I have acquired a GM MAP sensor for some diy manifold pressure measurements,
> it's a three pin device with the numbers 3372, S97101 on it. Most web pages
> say the pinouts are 5v, Signal, 0v. There is an identifying polarisation lug
> next to one of the end pins, does anyone know if this pin is 5v or 0v? Or
> are there any measurements I can make to distinguish the 0v and 5v pins?
> 
> Will
> 
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 16:16:43 2001
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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References: <00b201c091de$214aeea0$0902a8c0@richm.melksham>
Subject: Re: MAF maximum frequency
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The early Bosch ones that gm used were 30-130 Hz, from what I've read.
There was a posting abou the later ones, that I seem to have lost, but I
think the lat AL housing ones are 1-12K Hz.
Bruce


> Please can anyone give me any idea what  frequency range would be expected
> (max and min) from frequency output type MAF's?
>
> Many thanks in anticipation
>
> Rich
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 17:14:55 2001
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References: <200102081948.LAA11986@hektor.valesh.com>
Subject: Re:EFI control 
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Yes, automotive quality can vary, 80% of auto engineering is cost evaluation , and the rest is internal politics.
In high volume, if does not break at designed lifespan make it cheaper.
Worked for large OEM fuel system supplier, in late 70's and in federal emission test and durability, were most
results on borderline or over.  Most likely Chryslers in the engineering phase today will not be good when on maket.
Alex
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: Roy [mailto:spectric@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 2:58 AM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re:EFI control
>
>
> Hi there
>
> With reference to non OEM ECU's. I have worked in the
> automotive electrical / electronic field for many
> years and I must say that in many cases the
> aftermarket ECU is far better in quality than the OEM
> module, take a look at Motec.  Of the OEM's I would
> say Bosch are amongst the best all round and the Ford
> EEC the worst.
>
>                    Roy
>
> - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------



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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 17:15:19 2001
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New ones seem to come out everyday.
try www.melexix.com  MLX90217 or MLX90215VA programmable
also www.alegromicro.com
Alex
> Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 11:32:50 -0800
> From: Stewart Prince <sprince@csun.edu>
> Subject: vr vs hall
>
> We''ve been having a tough time with noise on the triggering signal on our home
> build efi system for formula sae....we're now considering either a hall effect
> or variable reluctance setup directly on the crankshaft, and we're very space
> limited.  Does anyone have any comments on the two systems, and perhaps part #s?
>
> S. prince



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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 17:18:46 2001
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From: "Steve Ruse" <rusej@letu.edu>
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Subject: Trying to decide on  RPM & crank angle sensor
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 19:26:25 -0600
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I'm trying to decide what type of crank angle sensor and RPM sensor I want
to use with our EFI system for a 600cc Honda. Probably we will be using a PC
based control system, if not it will be a dedicated 68*** micro.

We had originally thrown around the idea of using an optispark style optical
sensor, but I think there must be something easier than that. Has anybody
ever tried using an optical encoder? I don't know much about them at all,
but from looking at the spec sheets it seems like they would work, and I
wouldn't have to try to cut out a disk and make it work with a sensor.
Anybody know of a good source or where I could find some datasheets?

Hall effect sensors seem to be very popular. All you need is a toothed wheel
and a sensor, right? What does the output signal look like?

What do you guys think would be the most reliable and accurate sensor? Ease
of implementation is also a factor, not the biggest, but it is a factor.

Thanks for the help!
Steve Ruse

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 19:01:58 2001
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From: "Steve Leonard" <gsxr1300@hotmail.com>
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Subject: NTK 
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2001 03:01:21 
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I have an EMS Dual Sport I fuel injection system. It has the "wide band 
lambda" sensor option. It came with a Bosch LSM-11 sensor. Unfortunately I 
killed it with some non-O2 sensor safe RTV. :(
  The "tech" guy at EMS said that he has simply replaced the Bosch unit with 
a NTK wide band sensor (same type as the DIY EFI unit- 5 wire).
Anybody see any reason this wouldn't work?

On another note, these NTK sensors can still be purchased rather cheap 
($125US) The Bosch LSM-11 is $390. Go to your local NAPA store, the part is 
an Echlin OS791 ("O" as in OH sh*t). It is the real McCoy,  NTK is stamped 
on it.


_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 21:04:25 2001
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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?= <jurg@pp.sbbs.se>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: NTK 
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 06:04:58 +0100
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Hi,

You must have spoken to the tech guys hamster, the sensor does not have much
in common with the NTK UEGO sensor.

I can probably set you up with a LSM 11 sensor that is used for a short time
in a big engine lab, It will be compared to other reference sensors just
before I ship it to you. $200 is the price. Send a mail to
mailto:jurg@pp.sbbs.se to discuss payment and shipping if you are
interested.

Jörgen Karlsson
Gothenburg, Sweden.



Steve Leonard wrote:

> I have an EMS Dual Sport I fuel injection system. It has the "wide band
> lambda" sensor option. It came with a Bosch LSM-11 sensor.
> Unfortunately I
> killed it with some non-O2 sensor safe RTV. :(
>   The "tech" guy at EMS said that he has simply replaced the
> Bosch unit with
> a NTK wide band sensor (same type as the DIY EFI unit- 5 wire).
> Anybody see any reason this wouldn't work?
>
> On another note, these NTK sensors can still be purchased rather cheap
> ($125US) The Bosch LSM-11 is $390. Go to your local NAPA store,
> the part is
> an Echlin OS791 ("O" as in OH sh*t). It is the real McCoy,  NTK
> is stamped
> on it.

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Subject: Re: DIY ceramic coating
References: <OE44XQQez1enAqpfkNs00000f3d@hotmail.com> <3A81F654.FE7A7805@mtco.com> <3A8214F8.C184092F@grolen.com> <OE15arp3SbmousuEAdX00003e8c@hotmail.com>
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Just catching up slowly  tws

944Technologist wrote:

> Hi,
>
> This thread has been dead for months. It was active about the time the
> system crashed. Are you both just now getting email delivered? Old mail hung
> up due to the system crash maybe?
>
> FR Wilk
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Shannen Durphey" <Shannen@grolen.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 7:39 PM
> Subject: Re: DIY ceramic coating
>
> > I use 2 sources.  Summit racing, and Speedway Racing in Lincoln, Nebraska.
> Plan to
> > invest plenty of time in a coating job.
> >
> > Shannen
> >
> > Tom Sharpe wrote:
> > >
> > > It's available from Summit!!!  TWS
> > >
> > > 944Technologist wrote:
> > >
> > > > Now, I would like to find a DIY ceramic coating. Something that I can
> coat
> > > > the interior and exterior of an aluminum intake manifold and bake in a
> > > > conventional "kitchen" oven. I have seen the material on the net but
> no
> > > > where to buy it. Not in small quantities anyway. Anyone know where it
> can be
> > > > bought in small quantities?
> > > >
> > > > FR Wilk
> > --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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> >
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 22:13:29 2001
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From: "Tony Bryant" <brd@paradise.net.nz>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Re: Trying to decide on  RPM & crank angle sensor
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 19:15:26 +1300
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>We had originally thrown around the idea of using an optispark style
optical
>sensor, but I think there must be something easier than that. Has anybody
>ever tried using an optical encoder? I don't know much about them at all,
>but from looking at the spec sheets it seems like they would work, and I
>wouldn't have to try to cut out a disk and make it work with a sensor.
>Anybody know of a good source or where I could find some datasheets?
>

I used a piece of PCB material with 59 holes drilled in it bolted to the
crank pulley.
I used a optical slot sensor from a old mouse. Worked great, but it made me
nervous
so I changed to a hall effect sensor.

>Hall effect sensors seem to be very popular. All you need is a toothed
wheel
>and a sensor, right? What does the output signal look like?

Order a hall effect gear tooth sensor from digi-key. Make sure you get a
gear tooth sensor, not just a normal sensor. Allegro make a nice one that
outputs TTL with no bounce or other crap. I just expoxied it, a tiny rare
earth
magnet, and a piece of steel (to act as a pole piece) in a piece of copper
tube.
Pretty robust solution.

Just to be sure though I feed the result through an RC filter and an 74HC14
to
square it up again.

I did mill up a fancy 59 tooth wheel for it, but I could have easily just
cut a few slots in
the periphery of the crank pully.

Digikey also sell complete hall effect sensor from Cherry, ready to bolt up.

>
>What do you guys think would be the most reliable and accurate sensor? Ease
>of implementation is also a factor, not the biggest, but it is a factor.

Don't bother with inductive at this stage, the lack of DC response will make
the engine a bitch to start, if you don't get the signal processing right.




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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 22:42:32 2001
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From: "James Ballenger" <vtjballeng@yifan.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Trying to decide on  RPM & crank angle sensor
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 01:42:12 -0500
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	You could use the stock Honda setup (assuming your CBR F 600 is similar to
the F2,F3,F4 setups I have worked with) and take it's reluctor signal.  You
could also make your own mag
sensor timing wheel or buy one on the market... I have several designs and
wheels that work up to 14,100 sitting in my shop.  The one that has worked
the best for our team has been a 2 channel hall effect sensor that works
with a timing wheel with two magnets embedded 180 degrees apart from
eachother in an aluminum disk.  The signal from the hall effect is a
straight digital signal vs the sinusoidal signal from a mag sensor.  These
are very easy to make and I have existing designs for fitting the wheels on
F3/F4 engines.

James Ballenger
vtjballeng@yifan.net

PS - if you want more design detail or specifics please email me off the
listserv

>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
>Behalf Of Steve Ruse
>Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 8:26 PM
>To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>Subject: Trying to decide on RPM & crank angle sensor
>
>
>I'm trying to decide what type of crank angle sensor and RPM
>sensor I want
>to use with our EFI system for a 600cc Honda. Probably we will
>be using a PC
>based control system, if not it will be a dedicated 68*** micro.
>
>We had originally thrown around the idea of using an optispark
>style optical
>sensor, but I think there must be something easier than that.
>Has anybody
>ever tried using an optical encoder? I don't know much about
>them at all,
>but from looking at the spec sheets it seems like they would
>work, and I
>wouldn't have to try to cut out a disk and make it work with a sensor.
>Anybody know of a good source or where I could find some datasheets?
>
>Hall effect sensors seem to be very popular. All you need is a
>toothed wheel
>and a sensor, right? What does the output signal look like?
>
>What do you guys think would be the most reliable and accurate
>sensor? Ease
>of implementation is also a factor, not the biggest, but it is
>a factor.
>
>Thanks for the help!
>Steve Ruse
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 22:47:38 2001
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From: "James Ballenger" <vtjballeng@yifan.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Trying to decide on  RPM & crank angle sensor
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 01:47:28 -0500
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>>Hall effect sensors seem to be very popular. All you need is a toothed
>wheel
>>and a sensor, right? What does the output signal look like?
>
>Order a hall effect gear tooth sensor from digi-key. Make sure
>you get a
>gear tooth sensor, not just a normal sensor. Allegro make a
>nice one that
>outputs TTL with no bounce or other crap. I just expoxied it,
>a tiny rare
>earth
>magnet, and a piece of steel (to act as a pole piece) in a
>piece of copper
>tube.
>Pretty robust solution.

	Please be extremely careful with this.  Keep in mind the engine he will be
using can rev to 14,100 rpm.  I have seen some very robust solutions fly out
of the wheel at insane speed... it might as well be shooting a bullet at
you.  For his app, he will need a good design and a good hole to place the
magnets in with high strength epoxy and possibly some peening.  At this
speed precision in the magnet placement is also extremely important as is
the air gap.

James Ballenger

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Feb  8 23:29:36 2001
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From: "944Technologist" <f_wilk@hotmail.com>
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Subject: NTK - I have the drawings for UEGO p/n TL-7111-W1
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I used my business name and got some basic catalogs. I have the above UEGO,
controller & cable drawings. I was looking for a NTK1136 spec but no......
20 pages maybe.

I don't know if that interests anyone but maybe I can scan it and post it on
one of my web sites later. I haven't really had the time to look at it.

Let me know,

FR Wilk
http://members.tripod.com/prsch944/dme.htm
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Feb  9 01:12:16 2001
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From: "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>
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Subject: Re: MAF maximum frequency
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thanks Bruce.

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Date: 09 February 2001 00:24
Subject: Re: MAF maximum frequency


>
>The early Bosch ones that gm used were 30-130 Hz, from what I've read.
>There was a posting abou the later ones, that I seem to have lost, but I
>think the lat AL housing ones are 1-12K Hz.
>Bruce
>
>
>> Please can anyone give me any idea what  frequency range would be
expected
>> (max and min) from frequency output type MAF's?
>>
>> Many thanks in anticipation
>>
>> Rich
>>
>> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
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Subject: RE: EFI control
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> My comments

-----Original Message-----
From: James Montebello [mailto:jamesm@lapuwali.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 5:54 PM
To: 'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'
Subject: RE: EFI control

Fine.  Don't buy it.  

> I won't.  Never planned on it.

Lots of people do and are perfectly happy with it.
If you're not, then buy something else, or build something else.
Ragging on SDS for building a product that fills a market niche
at a price that people are perfectly willing to pay is unwarranted.

>  Like I said, I am happy that SDS can sell it's product.  It's simply 
>  not good enough for me.


If you're so unhappy about it, then I invite you to compete with them,
so you can discover just how badly they're ripping everyone off with
their overpriced, underengineered junk (that's sarcasm, btw).

>  Yeah, I can tell.

As I said before, please build an ECU that meets the quality standards of
a big OEM and sell it for the same price as SDS.  Really.  You'll bankrupt
yourself, but a few lucky people will get a nice new ECU cheap at your
expense before you run out of money.

>  If I were to do that, it would cost more than SDS because it would be
>  Better constructed, with more features.

I'm also an engineer, but I'm not so arrogant as to think that all people
involved in the marketing and sales sides are idiots.  There are plenty
of small business run by an engineer that's also serving as salesman,
accountant, support, etc.  There are plenty of salesmen out there
with engineering degrees.  There are plenty of engineers with MBAs.
There are also plenty of engineers (esp. at big engineering companies)
who haven't a clue about how to survive as a small businessman.

>  You are however arrogant enough to think that engineers at large
engineering-type
>  companies must be idiots who couldn't possibly run a business without the
acumen
>  of a marketing/sales type around.  I know there's plenty of sales
engineers out there,
>  I also know in my experience that there's a lot of idiots out there.
>  If you go back to my original statement, that SDS isn't waterproof, looks
homemade and 
>  costs more than accel, that's exactly what I meant.  It doesn't look
$1000 quality.
>  If you sum up my beef, it would be that SDS isn't worth $1000 TO ME, and
that there's a 
>  market for somebody to come along with a nice waterproof ECM with a nice
harness that
>  can get a few more bucks for it.
>  If you're happy with SDS, fine.  I'm not, and I don't care to debate it
anymore.
>  And everyone in this country at least is entitled to an opinion, I have
stated it, you have
>  stated yours.  But don't tell me not to rag on SDS.  
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References: <008501c09264$2baac290$ca00a8c0@Vtech>
Subject: Re: Trying to decide on  RPM & crank angle sensor
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I was told I can use a crank sensor from a Ford Escort.  They are $18 from
any NAPA store.  I noticed digi-key wanted at least $15-30 for their
ready-made hall effect sensors.  Are they rated for the hot automotive
environment or does it matter?

Jay

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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
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We used latching hall sensors for our EFI.  There are magnets inserted into
an aluminum ring underneath the camshaft timing pulley.  On the Honda VTEC
the this is a stamped metal cogged belt pulley.  The magnet pairs are
oriented as a Gray Code encoder so with two HALL sensors a single edge
change occurs at every 90 CAM degrees.  My interrupt routine therefore gets
called on positive and negative edges and need only read the state of both
Hall Sensors to determine which quadrant the CAM is in.  No complicated
short tooth spaces or missing tooth calculations etc.  Because the sensors
come up indeterminate the engine does need as much as two revolutions to set
the magnets right.  An opto system would work better here but we didn't have
room underneath the pulley for any sort of vanes.

John Dammeyer

----- Original Message -----
From: <don.broadus@exeloncorp.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 2:45 PM
Subject: RE: vr vs hall


> Ed Lansinger had a similar problem with his teams SAE racer. He solved the
> problem by routing the mag pickup lines through inline coaxial capacitors
> soldered to the ECM case. The article appeared in 3 installments in
circuit
> cellar magazine issue #62/63/64 Sept/Oct/Nov This is the only Email I have
> for Ed is    lansie@rpi.edu.
>
>                                                                     Take
> Care
>
> Don
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Bruce Plecan [SMTP:nacelp@bright.net]
> > Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 4:11 PM
> > To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > Subject: Re: vr vs hall
> >
> >
> > Without a whole lot more engine info., kinda hard to mention particular
> > bits.
> >
> > The reluctor types are an A/C generator so the have some built in
advance
> > that might be a problem (wayy too much advance at high rpm).
> > Halls on the other hand are fixed.   well, maybe a lil movement, but
> > basically where every the shutter is, that's the signal point
> > Bruce
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > We''ve been having a tough time with noise on the triggering signal on
> > our
> > home
> > > build efi system for formula sae....we're now considering either a
hall
> > effect
> > > or variable reluctance setup directly on the crankshaft, and we're
very
> > space
> > > limited.  Does anyone have any comments on the two systems, and
perhaps
> > part #s?
> > > S. prince
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
>
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Feb  9 08:16:08 2001
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Someone asked who buys Motecs.  --Just a quick tidbit.  A friend of mine
purchased Motec a few years back for a Porsche 962 he was servicing for a fairly
wealthy customer.  In this case, going to Motec was actually a cost saving
excercise. It turns out that the new Motec system was half the cost of having
the original Bosch box rebuilt.  (962s were the IMSA GTP and LeMans cars of the
late eightys & early ninetys, and only the Bosch factory was willing/qualified
to tackle the rebuild at tremendous expense).  Kinda fuzzy on the reasons that a
"rebuild" was needed. I'll have to ask agian.
Rod.


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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Feb  9 09:47:33 2001
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From: bearbvd@cmn.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Motecs Price
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At 11:15 AM 2/9/01, Rodney_L_Wiggins@keybank.com wrote:
>Someone asked who buys Motecs.  --Just a quick tidbit.  A friend of mine
>purchased Motec a few years back for a Porsche 962 he was servicing for a
>fairly
>wealthy customer.  In this case, going to Motec was actually a cost saving
>excercise. It turns out that the new Motec system was half the cost of having
>the original Bosch box rebuilt.  (962s were the IMSA GTP and LeMans cars of the
>late eightys & early ninetys, and only the Bosch factory was willing/qualified
>to tackle the rebuild at tremendous expense).  Kinda fuzzy on the reasons
>that a
>"rebuild" was needed. I'll have to ask agian.
>Rod.

Motec's are a lot less $$$$ if purchase from Oz rather than from their US
distributor.

And, if you like Motec, Autronics is about the same quality, MORE features
in some areas, and significantly less $$$. Autronics was established by a
guy, name of Aubert, I believe, who split from Motec.

Greg


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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Feb  9 12:19:55 2001
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Subject: SuperPro II Programmer Help
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: "Peter Fenske" <Peter_Fenske@bcit.ca>
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 12:14:15 -0800
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Hi All

Was wondering if anyone has any documentation for a Superpro II
universal programmer.

Also if anyone has docs for a PICPRO PIC programmer.

Sorry to intrude

Thanks all:peter


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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Feb  9 12:47:54 2001
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Subject: RE: Motecs Price
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 15:40:03 -0500 
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where can I get info on the Autronics system?

-----Original Message-----
From: bearbvd@cmn.net [mailto:bearbvd@cmn.net]
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2001 12:51 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Motecs Price


At 11:15 AM 2/9/01, Rodney_L_Wiggins@keybank.com wrote:
>Someone asked who buys Motecs.  --Just a quick tidbit.  A friend of mine
>purchased Motec a few years back for a Porsche 962 he was servicing for a
>fairly
>wealthy customer.  In this case, going to Motec was actually a cost saving
>excercise. It turns out that the new Motec system was half the cost of
having
>the original Bosch box rebuilt.  (962s were the IMSA GTP and LeMans cars of
the
>late eightys & early ninetys, and only the Bosch factory was
willing/qualified
>to tackle the rebuild at tremendous expense).  Kinda fuzzy on the reasons
>that a
>"rebuild" was needed. I'll have to ask agian.
>Rod.

Motec's are a lot less $$$$ if purchase from Oz rather than from their US
distributor.

And, if you like Motec, Autronics is about the same quality, MORE features
in some areas, and significantly less $$$. Autronics was established by a
guy, name of Aubert, I believe, who split from Motec.

Greg


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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Feb  9 13:17:16 2001
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Peter Fenske wrote:

> Hi All
>
> Was wondering if anyone has any documentation for a Superpro II
> universal programmer.
>

What do you want to know about SPII ?

I had it once (actually two of them...)


Regards,


Branko

>
> Also if anyone has docs for a PICPRO PIC programmer.
>
> Sorry to intrude
>
> Thanks all:peter
>
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At 3:40 PM 2/9/01, Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com wrote:
>where can I get info on the Autronics system?
>
There is a link on the Ray Hall Turbocharging site.

<www.turbofast.com.au>

Greg


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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Feb  9 14:44:25 2001
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Subject: Re: Trying to decide on  RPM & crank angle sensor
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>
> Please be extremely careful with this.  Keep in mind the engine he will be
>using can rev to 14,100 rpm.  I have seen some very robust solutions fly
out
>of the wheel at insane speed... it might as well be shooting a bullet at
>you.  For his app, he will need a good design and a good hole to place the
>magnets in with high strength epoxy and possibly some peening.  At this
>speed precision in the magnet placement is also extremely important as is
>the air gap.
>


No, No, No, I was NOT sugguesting attaching anything except a balanced
toothed
wheel to the crank. The magnet sits inside the sensor assembly, i.e. fixed
to the engine.

The slots in the crank pulley I was suggesting is an alternative to fabbing
a toothed
wheel, NOT as somewhere to put a magnet.




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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Feb  9 21:27:28 2001
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----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Hermann <bearbvd@cmn.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Saturday, 10 February 2001 9:05 AM
Subject: RE: Motecs Price


> At 3:40 PM 2/9/01, Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com wrote:
> >where can I get info on the Autronics system?
> >
> There is a link on the Ray Hall Turbocharging site.
>
> <www.turbofast.com.au>
>
> Greg

AUTRONIC info also at http://www.beninca.com.au/autronic.htm
and follow links

Joe


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From: Fredrik Skog <c95fsg@cs.umu.se>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: MBE system
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Hi all!

I'm interested to hear if anyone on the list has any experience with the
MBE 941 fuel/ignition system. I have recently purchased such a unit and it
seems to be a very robust and nicely engineered product. It is widely used
in rally cars here in europe. The software is nice and powerful and seems
to be offering everything a racer can need.
I have not had any time to dig deep into the system or try it out, but I
have seen a few cars with the system, and they are very happy with it.
Both street and racing.
The only downside is the documentation on the system wich is very limited.

Ther are some more info on www.mbesystems.com

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
	Student at the Department of Computing Science Umeå University

Fredrik Skog			    E-mail:   c95fsg@cs.umu.se
Taffelstråket 51	   	    WWW:      http://www.acc.umu.se/~skog
903 53 Umeå                         Phone:    +46-(0)90-136365
			            Mobile:   +46-(0)70-3041729

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Feb 10 10:02:50 2001
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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
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Subject: Re: MBE system
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 10:03:44 -0800
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What's the price of the unit and what sort of connector do they have?  It's
difficult to tell from the photo.  Do they supply a wiring harness?

John Dammeyer

----- Original Message -----
From: "Fredrik Skog" <c95fsg@cs.umu.se>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 8:31 AM
Subject: MBE system


Hi all!

I'm interested to hear if anyone on the list has any experience with the
MBE 941 fuel/ignition system. I have recently purchased such a unit and it
seems to be a very robust and nicely engineered product. It is widely used
in rally cars here in europe. The software is nice and powerful and seems
to be offering everything a racer can need.
I have not had any time to dig deep into the system or try it out, but I
have seen a few cars with the system, and they are very happy with it.
Both street and racing.
The only downside is the documentation on the system wich is very limited.

Ther are some more info on www.mbesystems.com

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
Student at the Department of Computing Science Umeå University

Fredrik Skog     E-mail:   c95fsg@cs.umu.se
Taffelstråket 51        WWW:      http://www.acc.umu.se/~skog
903 53 Umeå                         Phone:    +46-(0)90-136365
            Mobile:   +46-(0)70-3041729

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Feb 10 10:56:36 2001
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Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 14:01:18 -0500
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: Chris Conlon <synchris@speakeasy.org>
Subject: Re: Emulator (was EFI control)
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At 05:53 PM 2/7/01 -0400, Bill Shaw wrote:

>You've got at least one interested,  but it would need to support the
>'749,  so 128K bits.
>
>1 Flash,  1 static ram, muxes and PIC? I can do the PIC stuff,  I have a
>PICmaster.  It does get more complicated,  but with surface mount it
>can still be reasonably sized.
>
>On startup,  copy the flash to ram and run the ecu out of ram.  When
>changes come in the serial port switch the ecu to flash,  make changes
>to ram,   then switch the ecu back to ram.

This will work well if only a few bytes are changed, so that the changes
can be stored in PIC memory. (After you switch the ECU back to RAM you
have to reapply the same changes to the flash.)

Personally I'd use 2 128k SRAMs, and 128k of whatever nonvolatile you
prefer. This lets you d/l a complete rom image to the PIC's SRAM,
burn it to NV (which may be slowish depending on what you use),
swap the SRAMs (giving the ECU the new image) and then update the PICs
SRAM from NVRAM. You'll need 74xx244s + 74xx245s (or equivalent) so
that either the PIC "bus" or the ECU bus can talk to either SRAM. The
NVRAM, assuming it's flash or parallel eeprom, can also hang off the
PIC bus via 244/245s. This is more HW than you need the other way,
but not a lot more, and it opens up your choice of NVRAM to just
about anything.

Speaking of the PIC "bus", are there PICs available that support an
external data bus with 18+ address lines? If not you'll need to do a
simple fake data bus thing, where you have some output latches for the
addr bus and control bits (/CS, /OE, /WE) and 8 i/o bits for the data
bus. Nothing too tricky. If you want to do the address bits via SPI,
the 'xx595 works very nicely.


   Chris C.

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Feb 10 11:18:55 2001
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Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 14:20:59 -0500
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From: Chris Conlon <synchris@speakeasy.org>
Subject: Re: MAFs
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At 05:55 AM 2/8/01 +0100, Axel Rietschin wrote:

>> Yes, you missed a small point. The location of the MAF (before or after
>> the compressor), in a system that has a significant volume of plumbing
>> after the compressor *does* make a difference. The reason being the
>> "air through MAF = air into engine" relationship is only true in steady
>> state. When the pressure post-compressor is changing, up or down, the
>> airflow through the MAF is not equal to flow into the engine. Some is
>> being either pumped up into the plumbing, or delivered from the pumped
>> up volume into the engine.
>
>You mean you can get a faster response from the MAF (less lag) when it's
>located closer to the engine because the plumbing volume introduces an
>additional delay? I didn't think if it at first but I see no problem with
>that.

Hmmm I have not thought about it in terms of faster/slower. When the
MAF is pre-compressor it actually reads higher, sooner than it would
post-compressor, for a brief time when boost is rising. It's measuring
the air that's actually going into the engine plus the amount of air
needed to pump up the post-compressor plumbing to X psi of boost. The
situation is opposite as boost falls, some of engine's needs are fed
from stored boost post-compressor and the MAF does not see that air.
(It saw it earlier during boost ramp up.)

I haven't thought too hard about it yet but even with the MAF post-
compressor, location may still make a slight difference. The more
plumbing volume you have after the MAF, that is subject to wide
swings in pressure, I think the more the MAF reading will be high
under pumpup and low under pumpdown. (Could be way off base here.)

As long as your ECU knows what to expect (as far as dynamic correction)
I don't think there would be a problem either way. (This ignores the
temperature compensation issue and the turbulence issues.)


>> I've measured this effect on my supercharged MR2 and it is very real.
>> It's a very small lag in terms of watching a boost gauge but in terms
>> of throttle response it's very very noticable... if you have a
>> differently-responding setup to compare it to anyway.
>
>For the above reason, I easily believe it. It's just that the MAF-after-IC
>for temp correctness or whathever still is a no-no (or a yes-yes, I mean
>before or after the IC and/or compressor is exactly the same thing as far as
>air mass in concerned)
>
>On the other hand, faster response is very desirable and it this respect, a
>MAP sensor (2ms response time) in the inlet manifold is hard to beat.

Yeah... I'm not saying anything one way or the other about what location
is best for a MAF, since I really don't know. I would at least try to
see if turbulence and/or rapid temp swings will be a problem, though,
if I wanted to do something like that.

Personally I'm using MAP... I ran into the quirk of MAF response by
accident.


>> One thing you can do to greatly sharpen up the response of temp sensors
>> is to make a first order slope correction. Measure temp (call it C),
>
>It may be that the OEM ECUs are doing this? Dunno. For NA applications, I
>don't think they bother.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure they don't bother for NA engines. In my mind this
goes along with the slowness of typical IAT sensors. I think if they
felt there was a problem we'd see faster-responding sensors in wider use
before anybody wrote a line of code.


>> This is lots easier if your temp sensor is a bandgap or t-couple that
>> reads a voltage directly proportional to absolute temperature, eg. TMP3x
>
>Definitely. For info, I use a custom-made air temp sensor (using a
>Thermometrics FP07 NTC sensing element) for my own engine. This baby has a
>time constant of 100ms in still air (7ms in water), just to say I'm _very_
>concerned with sensor response :)

I'm with you all the way. Currently I'm using some lightweight NTC
thermistors, suspended in the middle of the airflow. (Higher flow rate
past the sensor helps a lot.) I'm still not happy with the setup though.
I'm using glass thermistors because I originally spec'ed a very high
max temp rating. At this point I'd rather have a faster responding
sensor though.


   Chris C.

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Feb 10 12:24:36 2001
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Subject: Friendly Emulator
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>
> All *WE* need is a user friendly cheap emulator and we're there now.
> With all the hacing, and good editors now, just getting away from having
to
> carry a burner around would about make this a perfect world, IMO
> Bruce
>



We're there now?...........

What's the latest in terms of friendly & cost effective emulators?  Ones
which can be programmed on-the-fly without having to shut down the engine?
Ones with friendly front end GUI's?   Any linked to editor packages?  For
use with 32K MemCals.  I'd love to hear more.

Walt.


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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Feb 10 12:56:51 2001
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Subject: Re: Running 8 low impedence injectors on GM ECM using an auxilliary injector driver?
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 15:57:49 -0800
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> Doesn't the Accel VIC trigger all 8 injectors at once based on a single
> input trigger? Could this cause any driveability problems on the 1990
> Camaro/Firebird V8 and other similar GM ECM's? What about bank fire
systems?
>
> Jason


You are right Jason.  I just rechecked, and it looks like one input trigger
for all 8 injector channels in the case of the VIC.  However, this is no
biggie for a batch fire engine as you have described above.  The 90 L98 for
instance, in OE form, fires all of the injectors simultaneously according to
SSDF or SSSF or ASYNCH mode.  So, no matter whether you tap into the INJA
trigger or the INJB trigger of the ECM, things should be fine.  One box
would then control all injectors, up to a max count of 8.

You would only really need independant bank control in instances such as
dual alternating channel TBI setups, or hybrids thereof (Holley 4bbl TBI,
Dual Rochester TBI's, custom MPI controlled by dual channel TBI ECM's,
etc.....).  Even then, you could also run some of these simultaneously and
asynchronously, in a pinch, using a VIC.  To retain independant bank
control, will require a custom external box.  An example JPEG schematic of
such an external custom box can be found at the incoming directory, under
the name "External TBI P&H".


Walt.


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Subject: Re: MAFs
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From: "Chris Conlon" <synchris@speakeasy.org>

> >You mean you can get a faster response from the MAF (less lag) when it's
> >located closer to the engine because the plumbing volume introduces an
> >additional delay? I didn't think if it at first but I see no problem with
> >that.
>
> Hmmm I have not thought about it in terms of faster/slower. When the
> MAF is pre-compressor it actually reads higher, sooner than it would
> post-compressor, for a brief time when boost is rising. It's measuring
> the air that's actually going into the engine plus the amount of air
> needed to pump up the post-compressor plumbing to X psi of boost. The
> situation is opposite as boost falls, some of engine's needs are fed
> from stored boost post-compressor and the MAF does not see that air.
> (It saw it earlier during boost ramp up.)

Got it. However, post compressor is likely so see a lot of reverse flow at
times which could be accounted as forward flow by the MAF. Maybe the right
amount of filtering could get rid of the 'irregularities'.

> >Definitely. For info, I use a custom-made air temp sensor (using a
> >Thermometrics FP07 NTC sensing element) for my own engine. This baby has
a
> >time constant of 100ms in still air (7ms in water), just to say I'm
_very_
> >concerned with sensor response :)
>
> I'm with you all the way. Currently I'm using some lightweight NTC
> thermistors, suspended in the middle of the airflow. (Higher flow rate
> past the sensor helps a lot.) I'm still not happy with the setup though.
> I'm using glass thermistors because I originally spec'ed a very high
> max temp rating. At this point I'd rather have a faster responding
> sensor though.

Check out www.thermometrics.com Look into Products -> Automotive and search
the page for FP07. You'll find a PDF with the specs. I was able to purchase
a couple of samples from one of their distributors and I put it in a
recycled regular Weber-Marelli sensor housing which fits into my inlet
manifold.

--Axel



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From: "Programmer" <nwester@eidnet.org>
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Subject: Re: Friendly Emulator
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 19:30:05 -0700
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You still trying to get your S4 to hook up too ??

Lyndon.
----- Original Message -----
From: Walter Sherwin <wsherwin@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 4:25 PM
Subject: Friendly Emulator


>
> >
> > All *WE* need is a user friendly cheap emulator and we're there now.
> > With all the hacing, and good editors now, just getting away from having
> to
> > carry a burner around would about make this a perfect world, IMO
> > Bruce
> >
>
>
>
> We're there now?...........
>
> What's the latest in terms of friendly & cost effective emulators?  Ones
> which can be programmed on-the-fly without having to shut down the engine?
> Ones with friendly front end GUI's?   Any linked to editor packages?  For
> use with 32K MemCals.  I'd love to hear more.
>
> Walt.
>
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Feb 11 08:28:48 2001
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Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 17:28:33 +0100 (MET)
From: Fredrik Skog <c95fsg@cs.umu.se>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: More on MBE
In-Reply-To: <200102110900.BAA02771@hektor.valesh.com>
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On Sun, 11 Feb 2001, DIY_EFI Digest wrote:

Hi all!

The actual price I don't know exactly, because I was in a group buy with
a few other guys so we got a nice discount, But we paid 890$ for the
control unit with windows software and a connector that fits the box. I
think that the actual price is near 1300$. 
The connector is for building your own wiring harness or just making an
adapter from an existing motronic harness. I have no Idea if they make
custom fit harnesses, but probably they do. The name of the connector I
don't know about, but it is an AMP connentor part no 0-963533-1. It has
55 pins in it and looks almost like a Bosch motronic connector. It has a
rubber seal so I think it's weather proof. The connenctor also have an
metal thing to lock it into place for a secure fit against the
control unit. The Control unit is made from billet aluminum with
an o-ring sealed lid. All the parts are surface mount on a single PCB.
The dimensions are 16x13.6cm (6.3x5.3 inches) All in all the unit
looks very nice and robust. Alot more robust than most OEM boxes I have
seen. I know looks and feel isn't everything, but It sure feels
comforting. If the outside is this well built, then it's a good chance the
inside is equally well built.
MBE have supplied engine management computers to Opel rally cars and now
they have made a deal with TWR. I think they also make OEM units for
motorcycles, marine use and aviation.

If anyone has experience with this unit I would be interested to hear
about it.

/Fredrik Skog

> 
> Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 17:31:30 +0100 (MET)
> From: Fredrik Skog <c95fsg@cs.umu.se>
> Subject: MBE system
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> I'm interested to hear if anyone on the list has any experience with the
> MBE 941 fuel/ignition system. I have recently purchased such a unit and it
> seems to be a very robust and nicely engineered product. It is widely used
> in rally cars here in europe. The software is nice and powerful and seems
> to be offering everything a racer can need.
> I have not had any time to dig deep into the system or try it out, but I
> have seen a few cars with the system, and they are very happy with it.
> Both street and racing.
> The only downside is the documentation on the system wich is very limited.
> 
> Ther are some more info on www.mbesystems.com
> 
> - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 	Student at the Department of Computing Science Umeå University
> 
> Fredrik Skog			    E-mail:   c95fsg@cs.umu.se
> Taffelstråket 51	   	    WWW:      http://www.acc.umu.se/~skog
> 903 53 Umeå                         Phone:    +46-(0)90-136365
> 			            Mobile:   +46-(0)70-3041729
> 

> 
> What's the price of the unit and what sort of connector do they have?  It's
> difficult to tell from the photo.  Do they supply a wiring harness?
> 
> John Dammeyer
> 

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Feb 11 11:02:03 2001
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From: "Al Lipper" <alipper@injectionlogic.com>
To: "DIY_EFI" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: ECU7 and Holley Commander 950
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 11:11:49 -0800
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I'm working on the development of software that will work with the ECU7
project (now in the form of ECU8).  Anyway, the goal is to develop some
easy-to-use calibration software.  I've heard about Holley's new Commander
950, and wondered if anyone has had much experience with one.  In
particular, is the software good.  If so, perhaps we can incorporate some
features from it into the ECU7 software.  Please let me know.  Thanks.

		Al Lipper

efi@injectionlogic.com

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Feb 11 18:09:54 2001
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
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Subject: Re: Friendly Emulator
Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 21:10:48 -0800
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Naw,  I gave up trying to get my Dataman S4 to play with my '7060 box.
Tried everything that their techie's suggested, but no cigar.  Very
disappointing as I've used the S4 with other MemCal boxes in the past, and
at least one other guy that I know of on the left coast purports to have
used his S4 with his '7060 with great success.  Even sent my S4 to Florida
for test/inspection, with NTF.  Oh well,  it needed a battery pack
anyway.........

I broke down and bought a  "UNIROM UR08 - 512 - 90ns Real Time Memory
Emulator Package" from Tech Tools, a little while back.  Looked like an
excellent candidate at the time.  However, I have not yet gotten around to
trying it.  It should support instant on-the-fly changes.  The GUI looks a
bit primitive, but functional.

Walt.




> You still trying to get your S4 to hook up too ??
>
> Lyndon.

>
>
> >
> > >
> > > All *WE* need is a user friendly cheap emulator and we're there now.
> > > With all the hacing, and good editors now, just getting away from
having
> > to
> > > carry a burner around would about make this a perfect world, IMO
> > > Bruce
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > We're there now?...........
> >
> > What's the latest in terms of friendly & cost effective emulators?  Ones
> > which can be programmed on-the-fly without having to shut down the
engine?
> > Ones with friendly front end GUI's?   Any linked to editor packages?
For
> > use with 32K MemCals.  I'd love to hear more.
> >
> > Walt.
> >
> >
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Feb 11 21:11:40 2001
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Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 21:07:48 -0800
From: Carl Summers <InTech@writeme.com>
Subject: RE: Friendly Emulator
In-reply-to: <003801c094b2$29d3a680$71309d18@pr1.on.wave.home.com>
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Hi Walter,
    Gotta url for that????
-Carl


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Walter Sherwin
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2001 9:11 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Friendly Emulator


Naw,  I gave up trying to get my Dataman S4 to play with my '7060 box.
Tried everything that their techie's suggested, but no cigar.  Very
disappointing as I've used the S4 with other MemCal boxes in the past, and
at least one other guy that I know of on the left coast purports to have
used his S4 with his '7060 with great success.  Even sent my S4 to Florida
for test/inspection, with NTF.  Oh well,  it needed a battery pack
anyway.........

I broke down and bought a  "UNIROM UR08 - 512 - 90ns Real Time Memory
Emulator Package" from Tech Tools, a little while back.  Looked like an
excellent candidate at the time.  However, I have not yet gotten around to
trying it.  It should support instant on-the-fly changes.  The GUI looks a
bit primitive, but functional.

Walt.




> You still trying to get your S4 to hook up too ??
>
> Lyndon.

>
>
> >
> > >
> > > All *WE* need is a user friendly cheap emulator and we're there now.
> > > With all the hacing, and good editors now, just getting away from
having
> > to
> > > carry a burner around would about make this a perfect world, IMO
> > > Bruce
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > We're there now?...........
> >
> > What's the latest in terms of friendly & cost effective emulators?  Ones
> > which can be programmed on-the-fly without having to shut down the
engine?
> > Ones with friendly front end GUI's?   Any linked to editor packages?
For
> > use with 32K MemCals.  I'd love to hear more.
> >
> > Walt.
> >
> >
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb 12 02:56:40 2001
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 02:36:33 -0800
From: Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
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Subject: Re: Emulator (was EFI control)
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Chris Conlon wrote:
> 
> Personally I'd use 2 128k SRAMs, and 128k of whatever nonvolatile you
> prefer. This lets you d/l a complete rom image to the PIC's SRAM,
> burn it to NV (which may be slowish depending on what you use),
> swap the SRAMs (giving the ECU the new image) and then update the PICs
> SRAM from NVRAM. You'll need 74xx244s + 74xx245s (or equivalent) so
> that either the PIC "bus" or the ECU bus can talk to either SRAM. The
> NVRAM, assuming it's flash or parallel eeprom, can also hang off the
> PIC bus via 244/245s.

Read the GMecm archives.  This issue generated lots of messages soon
after gmecm was started.  The design eventually settled on a single
DualPortSRAM, a PIC, a battery controller chip, an RS232 driver/receiver
chip, and perhaps one or two other chips.  Sure, a DPRAM is more
expensive than regular SRAM, but it is less than an SRAM plus all the
glue logic needed.  DPRAMs aren't designed for battery powered data
retention, but it turns out that a simple battery can keep a DPRAM alive
for weeks/months.  A double sized DPRAM can let the ECU run from one
PROM image while another is (slowly) downloaded.  Battery backing up the
DPRAM allows the ECU to start running from it immediately after power up
- the data doesn't need to be copied from a seperate NVRAM.

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb 12 05:28:05 2001
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Subject: 90 MAP system Code 43 help needed
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I need a guru on this one.
 My ECM is setting a code 43 - which on this setup is indicative of something wrong
with the Knock Sensor circuit.
I have replaced the sensor, the ECM, the distributor pickup, checked all the wiring,
and I have checked all the "sense" voltages in the Knock Sensor circuit. All the
voltages indicate that everything is normal and that it should not set the code.
Does anyone know of another reason it sets a code 43?
The system worked fine for about 6 months beofe it started setting the code.

TIA
mike

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb 12 07:20:54 2001
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From: "Programmer" <nwester@eidnet.org>
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Subject: Re: 90 MAP system Code 43 help needed
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 08:21:24 -0700
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Bad knock sensor, RFI from ignition wiring (make sure the ignition isn't
within 6" of the KS wiring circuit--I can send you the actual GM diagnostic
sheet on this.

Lyndon.
----- Original Message -----
From: <mike.hoenes@ncmail.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 6:07 AM
Subject: 90 MAP system Code 43 help needed


> I need a guru on this one.
>  My ECM is setting a code 43 - which on this setup is indicative of
something wrong
> with the Knock Sensor circuit.
> I have replaced the sensor, the ECM, the distributor pickup, checked all
the wiring,
> and I have checked all the "sense" voltages in the Knock Sensor circuit.
All the
> voltages indicate that everything is normal and that it should not set the
code.
> Does anyone know of another reason it sets a code 43?
> The system worked fine for about 6 months beofe it started setting the
code.
>
> TIA
> mike
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb 12 08:18:49 2001
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From: Eric Bryant <BRYANTE@ghsp.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: 90 MAP system Code 43 help needed
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 11:18:10 -0500
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> From: Programmer [mailto:nwester@eidnet.org]
> Subject: Re: 90 MAP system Code 43 help needed
> 
> 
> Bad knock sensor, RFI from ignition wiring (make sure the 
> ignition isn't
> within 6" of the KS wiring circuit--I can send you the actual 
> GM diagnostic
> sheet on this.

I'd be interested in seeing this, especially considering all the recent
discussion on the LT1_Edit list about RFI-induced false knock.

Eric Bryant
mailto:bryante@ghsp.com
http://www.novagate.com/~bryante 
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb 12 09:47:54 2001
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Subject: Re: 90 MAP system Code 43 help needed
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Also, might need more timing added during the test.
You can get to the stage of everything perfect and do EST codes, cause the
engine is not very detonation prone.   In addition to items mentioned.
Bruce

From: "Programmer" <nwester@eidnet.org>
> Bad knock sensor, RFI from ignition wiring (make sure the ignition isn't
> within 6" of the KS wiring circuit--I can send you the actual GM
diagnostic
> sheet on this.
> Lyndon.

> From: mike.hoenes@ncmail.net
> > I need a guru on this one.
> >  My ECM is setting a code 43 - which on this setup is indicative of
> something wrong
> > with the Knock Sensor circuit.
> > I have replaced the sensor, the ECM, the distributor pickup, checked all
> the wiring,
> > and I have checked all the "sense" voltages in the Knock Sensor circuit.
> All the
> > voltages indicate that everything is normal and that it should not set
the
> code.
> > Does anyone know of another reason it sets a code 43?
> > The system worked fine for about 6 months beofe it started setting the
> code.
> >
> > TIA
> > mike
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb 12 10:29:16 2001
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Subject: SV: Friendly Emulator
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 19:22:11 +0100
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Hi!
Just got myself a Racelogik emulator,havent tryed it yet,the HI/LO quick
eprom programmer card is not what my PC wants...Many of you guys uses Needham? Is this the best?
I could ask for a group buy price for the Racelogik emulator if your interested.
Espen
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb 12 12:12:50 2001
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References: <01C09529.8074A620.mwichstr@online.no>
Subject: Re: Friendly Emulator
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 13:13:33 -0700
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Interested ? Yes !!

Lyndon.
----- Original Message -----
From: espen hilde <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 11:22 AM
Subject: SV: Friendly Emulator


> Hi!
> Just got myself a Racelogik emulator,havent tryed it yet,the HI/LO quick
> eprom programmer card is not what my PC wants...Many of you guys uses
Needham? Is this the best?
> I could ask for a group buy price for the Racelogik emulator if your
interested.
> Espen
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb 12 12:11:35 2001
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Subject: Re: 90 MAP system Code 43 help needed
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 13:12:17 -0700
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Yeah--I remember some guys
setting ESC codes because they were running 93 octane--but I don't
recall the code doing the "timing test" in the early years...

Lyndon.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 10:48 AM
Subject: Re: 90 MAP system Code 43 help needed


>
> Also, might need more timing added during the test.
> You can get to the stage of everything perfect and do EST codes, cause the
> engine is not very detonation prone.   In addition to items mentioned.
> Bruce
>
> From: "Programmer" <nwester@eidnet.org>
> > Bad knock sensor, RFI from ignition wiring (make sure the ignition isn't
> > within 6" of the KS wiring circuit--I can send you the actual GM
> diagnostic
> > sheet on this.
> > Lyndon.
>
> > From: mike.hoenes@ncmail.net
> > > I need a guru on this one.
> > >  My ECM is setting a code 43 - which on this setup is indicative of
> > something wrong
> > > with the Knock Sensor circuit.
> > > I have replaced the sensor, the ECM, the distributor pickup, checked
all
> > the wiring,
> > > and I have checked all the "sense" voltages in the Knock Sensor
circuit.
> > All the
> > > voltages indicate that everything is normal and that it should not set
> the
> > code.
> > > Does anyone know of another reason it sets a code 43?
> > > The system worked fine for about 6 months beofe it started setting the
> > code.
> > >
> > > TIA
> > > mike
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb 12 12:59:13 2001
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From: Richard Wakeling <kojab@optushome.com.au>
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Subject: Re: 90 MAP system Code 43 help needed
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Hi Mike,

    I have had this and I too was scratching my head for a while. Someone had fitted the
wrong Knock sensor. They looked identical just the resistance was different. On our
early Aussie Holdens the lower resistance type is used typically 3.8K ohms and on our
latter Eco Tec engines  the resistance is much higher 100K ohms. What is puzzling is why
a code 43 was not set initially when the wrong 100K sensor was first installed.
    I hope this is what's setting your code 43.

Cheers Richard.

mike.hoenes@ncmail.net wrote:

> I need a guru on this one.
>  My ECM is setting a code 43 - which on this setup is indicative of something wrong
> with the Knock Sensor circuit.
> I have replaced the sensor, the ECM, the distributor pickup, checked all the wiring,
> and I have checked all the "sense" voltages in the Knock Sensor circuit. All the
> voltages indicate that everything is normal and that it should not set the code.
> Does anyone know of another reason it sets a code 43?
> The system worked fine for about 6 months beofe it started setting the code.
>
> TIA
> mike
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb 12 15:08:36 2001
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <LPBBLCGLJOFBHDFECHGNAEFECNAA.InTech@writeme.com>
Subject: Re: Friendly Emulator
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 18:09:32 -0800
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Yup......

http://www.tech-tools.com/romtools.htm

http://www.dataman.com/


Walt.




> Hi Walter,
>     Gotta url for that????
> -Carl
>
>
>
> Naw,  I gave up trying to get my Dataman S4 to play with my '7060 box.
> Tried everything that their techie's suggested, but no cigar.  Very
> disappointing as I've used the S4 with other MemCal boxes in the past, and
> at least one other guy that I know of on the left coast purports to have
> used his S4 with his '7060 with great success.  Even sent my S4 to Florida
> for test/inspection, with NTF.  Oh well,  it needed a battery pack
> anyway.........
>
> I broke down and bought a  "UNIROM UR08 - 512 - 90ns Real Time Memory
> Emulator Package" from Tech Tools, a little while back.  Looked like an
> excellent candidate at the time.  However, I have not yet gotten around to
> trying it.  It should support instant on-the-fly changes.  The GUI looks a
> bit primitive, but functional.
>
> Walt.
>
>
>
>
> > You still trying to get your S4 to hook up too ??
> >
> > Lyndon.
>
> >
> >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > All *WE* need is a user friendly cheap emulator and we're there now.
> > > > With all the hacing, and good editors now, just getting away from
> having
> > > to
> > > > carry a burner around would about make this a perfect world, IMO
> > > > Bruce
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > We're there now?...........
> > >
> > > What's the latest in terms of friendly & cost effective emulators?
Ones
> > > which can be programmed on-the-fly without having to shut down the
> engine?
> > > Ones with friendly front end GUI's?   Any linked to editor packages?
> For
> > > use with 32K MemCals.  I'd love to hear more.
> > >
> > > Walt.
> > >


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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <200102120900.BAA18110@hektor.valesh.com> <3A87DFF8.86AB9F84@ncmail.net> <008101c09507$76c05600$a4d1fea9@oemcomputer> <016801c0951b$fc72a000$32258fd1@brucescompute>
Subject: Re: 90 MAP system Code 43 help needed
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 18:50:41 -0800
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Was there any work done to the vehicle, or were there any other
changes/events, which may have coincided with the onset of this problem?
Perhaps some service work, or perhaps a component change, or perhaps even a
cal change?  Are you now running a better fuel than before?

The MALF 43 algo is pretty straight forward.  Part one usually peers out
into the world to determine whether a functioning ESC sensor is dangling
within the circuitry.  Part two usually advances the timing slightly to look
for self induced knock.  If the algo does not sense knock as a result of
this, it will try usually once more and then set a MALF code if it does not
sense knock the second time around.

There are discrete cal thresholds that define when and how often "Part Two"
plays these games.  Usually at a minimum they are:  coolant above X, elapsed
test time GT X, ESC counts less than X during the test, box not in
diagnostic mode, box either in PE mode or in non PE mode but TPS GT X, other
MALF codes not currently active, RPM GT X, MAP GT X, coolant LT X, and a few
others.  What cal package are you running?  Perhaps someone can fill in the
blank "X's" for you.

ESC sensors are physically affected by installation torque, overtorquing,
and gunk thickness on the threads.  It might be a good idea to manually
determine that your ESC sensor has not gone deaf.  With engine running, and
a scan tool hooked-up,  try rapping the block with something heavy and
metallic.  If all is well, you should see a blip of ESC count activity on
the scan tool each time you whack away.  If not, then something is surely
funny within your ESC setup.  This is best accomplished with an assistant.


Walt.





>
> Also, might need more timing added during the test.
> You can get to the stage of everything perfect and do EST codes, cause the
> engine is not very detonation prone.   In addition to items mentioned.
> Bruce
>
> From: "Programmer" <nwester@eidnet.org>
> > Bad knock sensor, RFI from ignition wiring (make sure the ignition isn't
> > within 6" of the KS wiring circuit--I can send you the actual GM
> diagnostic
> > sheet on this.
> > Lyndon.
>
> > From: mike.hoenes@ncmail.net
> > > I need a guru on this one.
> > >  My ECM is setting a code 43 - which on this setup is indicative of
> > something wrong
> > > with the Knock Sensor circuit.
> > > I have replaced the sensor, the ECM, the distributor pickup, checked
all
> > the wiring,
> > > and I have checked all the "sense" voltages in the Knock Sensor
circuit.
> > All the
> > > voltages indicate that everything is normal and that it should not set
> the
> > code.
> > > Does anyone know of another reason it sets a code 43?
> > > The system worked fine for about 6 months beofe it started setting the
> > code.
> > >
> > > TIA
> > > mike
> >


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb 12 16:21:11 2001
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Re: Friendly Emulator
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 19:21:57 -0800
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Yup......

http://www.tech-tools.com/romtools.htm

http://www.dataman.com/


Walt.




> Hi Walter,
>     Gotta url for that????
> -Carl
>
>
>
> Naw,  I gave up trying to get my Dataman S4 to play with my '7060 box.
> Tried everything that their techie's suggested, but no cigar.  Very
> disappointing as I've used the S4 with other MemCal boxes in the past, and
> at least one other guy that I know of on the left coast purports to have
> used his S4 with his '7060 with great success.  Even sent my S4 to Florida
> for test/inspection, with NTF.  Oh well,  it needed a battery pack
> anyway.........
>
> I broke down and bought a  "UNIROM UR08 - 512 - 90ns Real Time Memory
> Emulator Package" from Tech Tools, a little while back.  Looked like an
> excellent candidate at the time.  However, I have not yet gotten around to
> trying it.  It should support instant on-the-fly changes.  The GUI looks a
> bit primitive, but functional.
>
> Walt.
>
>
>
>
> > You still trying to get your S4 to hook up too ??
> >
> > Lyndon.
>
> >
> >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > All *WE* need is a user friendly cheap emulator and we're there now.
> > > > With all the hacing, and good editors now, just getting away from
> having
> > > to
> > > > carry a burner around would about make this a perfect world, IMO
> > > > Bruce
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > We're there now?...........
> > >
> > > What's the latest in terms of friendly & cost effective emulators?
Ones
> > > which can be programmed on-the-fly without having to shut down the
> engine?
> > > Ones with friendly front end GUI's?   Any linked to editor packages?
> For
> > > use with 32K MemCals.  I'd love to hear more.
> > >
> > > Walt.
> > >



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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb 12 17:07:25 2001
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From: "Phil" <phil@muts.freeserve.co.uk>
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Subject: advance curve
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 01:03:04 -0000
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Does anyone know if is true that an engine burning propane requires more
ignition advance at low rpm and less advance at high rpm than petrol?  If so
why..

Thanks
Phillip Martin

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb 12 18:18:00 2001
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From: "Al Lipper" <diy_efi@injectionlogic.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Cc: <phil@muts.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: RE: advance curve
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 18:27:27 -0800
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The advance will be quite difference.  Look at the "1997 propane vehicle
challenge" from SAE (SAE SP-1360) available from www.sae.org. for info on
it.  It will tell you more than you ever wanted to know about propane and
conversions.

	Al


> -----Original Message-----
> From: phil@muts.freeserve.co.uk [mailto:phil@muts.freeserve.co.uk]
> Sent: Monday, February 12, 2001 5:03 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: advance curve
>
>
> Does anyone know if is true that an engine burning propane requires more
> ignition advance at low rpm and less advance at high rpm than
> petrol?  If so
> why..
>
> Thanks
> Phillip Martin
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb 12 18:48:00 2001
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <gmecm@diy-efi.org>, <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Cherry Semiconductors Group buy
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 21:47:53 -0500
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I managed to delete the info on the Cherry Injector driver buy, would
someone involved send me the organizers info, please
Bruce
    Another case of TV remote messin with me <g>.

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Feb 12 20:59:13 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Friendly Emulator
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 21:2:36 -0800
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The Unirom Looks like the animal to have but @ 6 Bills thats a lot of
proms.  maybe for the person that does a number of projects?  has anyone
tried the "less expensive" versions.  like the EconoROM appears like it
will fit the DIY bill.  I am not so educated on this stuff so feel free to
enlighten me.  It appears that even though you cant edit on the fly as you
can with the unirom.  just shut down the motor, edit the bin (with editor
for us non-hex kind of guys), dump it into the econo rom, download to the
emulator, & fire the motor back up.  this sound right or am I out to lunch.
Unless I am missing something, it does not appear that you can write to the
emulator with it running, so you would have to shut down the motor etc. 

has anyone run one of the econo roms (or any of the emulators for that
matter)?  I have a 7730 ($8D), which has the 256K prom so i would imagine
that this would work.  I don't recall ever knowing what the min speed
requirement of the proms was, this leads me to ask is 45 nS going to be
fast enough.  the proms I just got have -15 on them & I think that means
150 nS (right?), if that is true then I would think 45 nS to be plenty
fast.  

TIA
Bob Wooten



> [Original Message]
> From: Walter Sherwin <wsherwin@home.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Date: 2/12/01 3:15:28 PM
> Subject: Re: Friendly Emulator
>
> Yup......
> 
> http://www.tech-tools.com/romtools.htm
> 
> http://www.dataman.com/
> 
> 
> Walt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > Hi Walter,
> >     Gotta url for that????
> > -Carl
> >
> >
> >
> > Naw,  I gave up trying to get my Dataman S4 to play with my '7060 box.
> > Tried everything that their techie's suggested, but no cigar.  Very
> > disappointing as I've used the S4 with other MemCal boxes in the past,
and
> > at least one other guy that I know of on the left coast purports to have
> > used his S4 with his '7060 with great success.  Even sent my S4 to
Florida
> > for test/inspection, with NTF.  Oh well,  it needed a battery pack
> > anyway.........
> >
> > I broke down and bought a  "UNIROM UR08 - 512 - 90ns Real Time Memory
> > Emulator Package" from Tech Tools, a little while back.  Looked like an
> > excellent candidate at the time.  However, I have not yet gotten around
to
> > trying it.  It should support instant on-the-fly changes.  The GUI
looks a
> > bit primitive, but functional.
> >
> > Walt.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > You still trying to get your S4 to hook up too ??
> > >
> > > Lyndon.
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > All *WE* need is a user friendly cheap emulator and we're there
now.
> > > > > With all the hacing, and good editors now, just getting away from
> > having
> > > > to
> > > > > carry a burner around would about make this a perfect world, IMO
> > > > > Bruce
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > We're there now?...........
> > > >
> > > > What's the latest in terms of friendly & cost effective emulators?
> Ones
> > > > which can be programmed on-the-fly without having to shut down the
> > engine?
> > > > Ones with friendly front end GUI's?   Any linked to editor packages?
> > For
> > > > use with 32K MemCals.  I'd love to hear more.
> > > >
> > > > Walt.
> > > >
> 
> 
>
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> 



--- Bob Wooten
--- r71chevy@earthlink.net
--- www.r71camaro.homestead.com



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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb 13 02:42:50 2001
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Robert Harris wrote:
> 
> Stoic is determined primarily by the fuel and little else.  The others vary
> considerably from engine to engine, altitude, temperature etc.  Both are
> determined empirically from actually tuning the engine and optimizing the
> results.  In other words - they are not magic numbers.
> 
> If you record the ego output at these two points, you have a nice means of
> getting back to these points.  The actual numbers are meaningless - as long as
> they are repeatable and of usable scale.
> 
> Precision is a fruitless anal exercise in futility.  At either point you can
> vary the mixture a few percent and the difference will be lost in statistical
> noise.
>
> [...]
>
> Good enough self calibration for engine control and getting back to the best
> power points after they are determined by other much more accurate means.

The above ignores a useful ability of a wide band sensor.  Lets say you
have a new engine on a dyno.  The engine enters a poorly calibrated
range.  The injectors are firing for 5 ms.  Your wide band sensor says:
"15.8:1 AFR".  Your ECM can say: "Uh, oh, lets get the engine to stoich
to keep from melting pistons. "  The ECM does a bit of math (5 ms * 15.8
/ 14.7), and starts firing the injectors for 5.37 ms.  Ta-da, the ECM
was able to go from lean to near stoich in the time of a single
injection event.

With an old bang-bang style sensor, the ECM did this:  5 ms.  Uh, oh,
lean.  5.04 ms.  [10 or 20 ms later]  Uh, oh, still lean.  5.08 ms. 
Still lean.  5.12 ms.  5.16 ms.  5.2 ms.  5.24 ms.  5.28 ms.  5.32 ms. 
5.36 ms.  5.40 ms.  Oops, too rich.  5.38 ms.  5.36 ms.  5.38 ms. 
Meanwhile, the engine was running lean for a quarter of a second or more.

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb 13 10:45:15 2001
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From: espen hilde <mwichstr@online.no>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: SV: Friendly Emulator /racelogic groupe buy!
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 19:40:21 +0100
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Hi ! I am forwarding the message I got from Racelogic:
Hi Espen,

Thanks for your interest in our emulator. As a special offer to DIY-EFI
members we will supply the basic 16bit emulator kit at ?995 + VAT +shipping.
This represents a saving of ?500 on the normal retail price.

Best Regards

Chris Smith


RACELOGIC Ltd 
6 Little Balmer 
Buckingham Ind.Pk. 
MK18 1TF 
TEL +44(1280) 823803 FAX +44(1280) 823595 
chris@racelogic.co.uk  www.racelogic.co.uk 

Any one interested?
Espen

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb 13 12:28:04 2001
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From: "Programmer" <nwester@eidnet.org>
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References: <01C095F4.ECDC6700.mwichstr@online.no>
Subject: Re: Friendly Emulator /racelogic groupe buy!
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:27:59 -0700
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What's ?995 ?? 995 USD ??

Lyndon.

----- Original Message -----
From: espen hilde <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 11:40 AM
Subject: SV: Friendly Emulator /racelogic groupe buy!


>
> Hi ! I am forwarding the message I got from Racelogic:
> Hi Espen,
>
> Thanks for your interest in our emulator. As a special offer to DIY-EFI
> members we will supply the basic 16bit emulator kit at ?995 + VAT
+shipping.
> This represents a saving of ?500 on the normal retail price.
>
> Best Regards
>
> Chris Smith
>
>
> RACELOGIC Ltd
> 6 Little Balmer
> Buckingham Ind.Pk.
> MK18 1TF
> TEL +44(1280) 823803 FAX +44(1280) 823595
> chris@racelogic.co.uk  www.racelogic.co.uk
>
> Any one interested?
> Espen
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb 13 12:51:30 2001
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Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 15:52:55 -0500 (EST)
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
Subject: Re: Friendly Emulator /racelogic groupe buy!
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Message-Id: <Voyager.010213155255.16532A@node141.ott.qnx.com>
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pounds judging by the snail mail address

Previously, you (Programmer) wrote:
{ What's ?995 ?? 995 USD ??
{ 
{ Lyndon.
{ 
{ ----- Original Message -----
{ From: espen hilde <mwichstr@online.no>
{ To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
{ Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 11:40 AM
{ Subject: SV: Friendly Emulator /racelogic groupe buy!
{ 
{ 
{ >
{ > Hi ! I am forwarding the message I got from Racelogic:
{ > Hi Espen,
{ >
{ > Thanks for your interest in our emulator. As a special offer to DIY-EFI
{ > members we will supply the basic 16bit emulator kit at ?995 + VAT
{ +shipping.
{ > This represents a saving of ?500 on the normal retail price.
{ >
{ > Best Regards
{ >
{ > Chris Smith
{ >
{ >
{ > RACELOGIC Ltd
{ > 6 Little Balmer
{ > Buckingham Ind.Pk.
{ > MK18 1TF
{ > TEL +44(1280) 823803 FAX +44(1280) 823595
{ > chris@racelogic.co.uk  www.racelogic.co.uk
{ >
{ > Any one interested?
{ > Espen
{ >
{ > --------------------------------------------------------------------------
{ --
{ > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
{ quotes)
{ > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
{ >
{ 
{ ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
{ To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
{ in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
{ 

--
Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb 13 13:19:16 2001
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Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:05:02 -0800
From: Carl Summers <InTech@writeme.com>
Subject: RE: Friendly Emulator /racelogic groupe buy!
In-reply-to: <Voyager.010213155255.16532A@node141.ott.qnx.com>
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What is 995 + VAT??? Whatsa Vat?
-Carl

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Pat Ford
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 12:53 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Friendly Emulator /racelogic groupe buy!


pounds judging by the snail mail address

Previously, you (Programmer) wrote:
{ What's ?995 ?? 995 USD ??
{ 
{ Lyndon.
{ 
{ ----- Original Message -----
{ From: espen hilde <mwichstr@online.no>
{ To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
{ Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 11:40 AM
{ Subject: SV: Friendly Emulator /racelogic groupe buy!
{ 
{ 
{ >
{ > Hi ! I am forwarding the message I got from Racelogic:
{ > Hi Espen,
{ >
{ > Thanks for your interest in our emulator. As a special offer to DIY-EFI
{ > members we will supply the basic 16bit emulator kit at ?995 + VAT
{ +shipping.
{ > This represents a saving of ?500 on the normal retail price.
{ >
{ > Best Regards
{ >
{ > Chris Smith
{ >
{ >
{ > RACELOGIC Ltd
{ > 6 Little Balmer
{ > Buckingham Ind.Pk.
{ > MK18 1TF
{ > TEL +44(1280) 823803 FAX +44(1280) 823595
{ > chris@racelogic.co.uk  www.racelogic.co.uk
{ >
{ > Any one interested?
{ > Espen
{ >
{ > --------------------------------------------------------------------------
{ --
{ > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
{ quotes)
{ > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
{ >
{ 
{ ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
{ To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
{ in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
{ 

--
Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb 13 13:46:29 2001
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Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 16:47:35 -0500 (EST)
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
Subject: RE: Friendly Emulator /racelogic groupe buy!
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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 Value Added Tax, like the gst here in Canada

Previously, you (Carl Summers) wrote:
{ What is 995 + VAT??? Whatsa Vat?
{ -Carl
{ 
{ -----Original Message-----
{ From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
{ Behalf Of Pat Ford
{ Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 12:53 PM
{ To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
{ Subject: Re: Friendly Emulator /racelogic groupe buy!
{ 
{ 
{ pounds judging by the snail mail address
{ 
{ Previously, you (Programmer) wrote:
{ { What's ?995 ?? 995 USD ??
{ { 
{ { Lyndon.
{ { 
{ { ----- Original Message -----
{ { From: espen hilde <mwichstr@online.no>
{ { To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
{ { Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 11:40 AM
{ { Subject: SV: Friendly Emulator /racelogic groupe buy!
{ { 
{ { 
{ { >
{ { > Hi ! I am forwarding the message I got from Racelogic:
{ { > Hi Espen,
{ { >
{ { > Thanks for your interest in our emulator. As a special offer to DIY-EFI
{ { > members we will supply the basic 16bit emulator kit at ?995 + VAT
{ { +shipping.
{ { > This represents a saving of ?500 on the normal retail price.
{ { >
{ { > Best Regards
{ { >
{ { > Chris Smith
{ { >
{ { >
{ { > RACELOGIC Ltd
{ { > 6 Little Balmer
{ { > Buckingham Ind.Pk.
{ { > MK18 1TF
{ { > TEL +44(1280) 823803 FAX +44(1280) 823595
{ { > chris@racelogic.co.uk  www.racelogic.co.uk
{ { >
{ { > Any one interested?
{ { > Espen
{ { >
{ { > --------------------------------------------------------------------------
{ { --
{ { > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
{ { quotes)
{ { > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
{ { >
{ { 
{ { ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
{ { To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
{ { in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
{ { 
{ 
{ --
{ Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
{ QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
{ (613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terence Matthews          
{ (613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8
{ 
{ ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
{ To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
{ in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
{ 
{ ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
{ To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
{ in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
{ 

--
Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb 13 13:51:00 2001
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Message-ID: <3A89AB34.A5536068@arm.com>
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 15:46:28 -0600
From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
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Subject: Re: Friendly Emulator /racelogic groupe buy!
References: <LPBBLCGLJOFBHDFECHGNCEFPCNAA.InTech@writeme.com>
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995 is likely to be Great Britain pounds since it's a UK company.  VAT
is the UK national sales tax, 17%.  1164 GBP total, or about $1750 in US
dollars.  Unless it's pretty whizzy I'd keep looking.

--steve

Carl Summers wrote:
> 
> What is 995 + VAT??? Whatsa Vat?
> -Carl

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb 13 14:50:21 2001
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From: "NickG" <nikog@mediaone.net>
To: "DIY EFI List" <DIY_EFI@lists.diy-efi.org>
Subject: injector on time calculation
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 17:48:31 -0500
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The ECU in my car uses injector on time per cylinder revolution (called Ti)
as one of the axis for the lookup tables. I'm trying to determine how this
calculation is done, and would like to run it through the list to get some
feedback on my results.

I'm certain that the following inputs are used in the calculation:

 air mass meter input (in kg/hr)
RPM
injector size

 From these 3 inputs, 2 can vary (air mass and RPM) and one is constant
(injector size). I'm also assuming the following conditions:

 A/F ratio = 14.7
# of cyl = 6
inj. size per cyl = 35.25 lb/hr

 I'm trying to solve for Ti (in ms/rev/cyl), so the basic formula I've come
up with is:

 Ti = [ (kg/hr) / (RPM X injsize X AFratio X numcyl) ] X k

 where k is a unit conversion factor converting kg/hr, RPM, and lb/hr to
ms/rev and equals 132,000.

 Thus,

 Ti = [ (kg/hr) / (RPM X 35.25 X 14.7 X 6) ] X 132,000

 Ti = [ (kg/hr) / RPM ] X 42.457

 Does this sound reasonable? Am I missing something?

 Nick


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb 13 17:22:04 2001
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Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 20:21:42 -0500
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Subject: Re: Friendly Emulator /racelogic groupe buy!
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I didn't think you had to pay VAT on items to be exported. Am I
mistaken?

Rob_O

steve ravet wrote:
> 
> 995 is likely to be Great Britain pounds since it's a UK company.  VAT
> is the UK national sales tax, 17%.  1164 GBP total, or about $1750 in US
> dollars.  Unless it's pretty whizzy I'd keep looking.
> 
> --steve
> 
> Carl Summers wrote:
> >
> > What is 995 + VAT??? Whatsa Vat?
> > -Carl
> 
> --
> Steve Ravet
> steve.ravet@arm.com
> ARM,Inc.
> www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb 13 17:45:16 2001
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Subject: Re: Friendly Emulator /racelogic groupe buy!
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 18:45:56 -0700
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Gak--that's around $2630 here <g>...guess I'll keep spinnin' and burnin'

Lyndon.
----- Original Message -----
From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 2:46 PM
Subject: Re: Friendly Emulator /racelogic groupe buy!


> 995 is likely to be Great Britain pounds since it's a UK company.  VAT
> is the UK national sales tax, 17%.  1164 GBP total, or about $1750 in US
> dollars.  Unless it's pretty whizzy I'd keep looking.
>
> --steve
>
> Carl Summers wrote:
> >
> > What is 995 + VAT??? Whatsa Vat?
> > -Carl
>
> --
> Steve Ravet
> steve.ravet@arm.com
> ARM,Inc.
> www.arm.com
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Feb 13 21:51:06 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Friendly Emulator /racelogic groupe buy!
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 21:54:36 -0800
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I'll, second that, makes the UniRom look cheap @ 8 Bills. I take it that no
one has used any of the lower end models like the tech tools econo ROM? 
(http://www.tech-tools.com/romtools.htm)  my apprehension is that i am
going to buy a $200 POJ, & get every bit of what i payed for it, back out
of it in frustration.  not being extremely smart this way, really hurts
about now, makes me wish i had payed more attention in class.

no input?????

BW


> [Original Message]
> From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Date: 2/13/01 1:56:17 PM
> Subject: Re: Friendly Emulator /racelogic groupe buy!
>
> 995 is likely to be Great Britain pounds since it's a UK company.  VAT
> is the UK national sales tax, 17%.  1164 GBP total, or about $1750 in US
> dollars.  Unless it's pretty whizzy I'd keep looking.
> 
> --steve
> 
> Carl Summers wrote:
> > 
> > What is 995 + VAT??? Whatsa Vat?
> > -Carl
> 
> -- 
> Steve Ravet
> steve.ravet@arm.com
> ARM,Inc.
> www.arm.com
>
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--- Bob Wooten
--- r71chevy@earthlink.net
--- www.r71camaro.homestead.com



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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb 14 02:08:42 2001
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espen hilde wrote:
> 
> Hi ! I am forwarding the message I got from Racelogic:
> 
> As a special offer to DIY-EFI
> members we will supply the basic 16bit emulator kit at ?995 + VAT +shipping.

steve ravet wrote:
> 
> 995 is likely to be Great Britain pounds since it's a UK company.  VAT
> is the UK national sales tax, 17%.  1164 GBP total, or about $1750 in US
> dollars.  Unless it's pretty whizzy I'd keep looking.

Strange.  The UK's VAT is generally included in the price.  If you go to
a store, and an item is marked "1 pound", then it will cost you exactly
1 pound at the checkout (not 1 pound and some pence.)  If you are a
foreign tourist and buy an item that you take home, you can get a refund
of the VAT amount.  At least, this is how things were about five years ago.

So, the emulator price should be 995 pounds - VAT + shipping.

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb 14 02:17:31 2001
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From: "Alastair Young" <ayoung@ndirect.co.uk>
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Subject: RE: Friendly Emulator /racelogic groupe buy!
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Yes here in the UK VAT is rated at 17.5% but if the product is to be
exported Vat is dropped . Still is expensive though at $1400 USD . They are
very good emulators though !

Al


Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 16:47:35 -0500 (EST)
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
Subject: RE: Friendly Emulator /racelogic groupe buy!

 Value Added Tax, like the gst here in Canada

Previously, you (Carl Summers) wrote:
{ What is 995 + VAT??? Whatsa Vat?
{ -Carl
{


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Feb 14 03:30:51 2001
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References: <LPBBLCGLJOFBHDFECHGNCEFPCNAA.InTech@writeme.com> <3A89AB34.A5536068@arm.com> <3A8A59C9.F3F99455@cruzers.com>
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Ludis Langens wrote:
> 
> espen hilde wrote:
> >
> > Hi ! I am forwarding the message I got from Racelogic:
> >
> > As a special offer to DIY-EFI
> > members we will supply the basic 16bit emulator kit at ?995 + VAT +shipping.
> 
> steve ravet wrote:
> >
> > 995 is likely to be Great Britain pounds since it's a UK company.  VAT
> > is the UK national sales tax, 17%.  1164 GBP total, or about $1750 in US
> > dollars.  Unless it's pretty whizzy I'd keep looking.
> 
> Strange.  The UK's VAT is generally included in the price.  If you go to
> a store, and an item is marked "1 pound", then it will cost you exactly
> 1 pound at the checkout (not 1 pound and some pence.)  If you are a
> foreign tourist and buy an item that you take home, you can get a refund
> of the VAT amount.  At least, this is how things were about five years ago.
> 
> So, the emulator price should be 995 pounds - VAT + shipping.
> 

	Quite often, suppliers quote their price to the trade _excluding_ VAT,
as traders can often reclaim the tax anyway.

	I have seen and used the Racelogic emulator. It's OK, but not particularly
user-friendly and
