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From: Grant Crockett <idratherbedriving@yahoo.com>
Subject: Tuning with EGT
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.

If so, what are you getting for temperature readings? 
I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
optimum performance, without detonation.

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  5 09:30:18 2001
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From: "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 17:26:59 -0000
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Hmmm, that's an interesting thought - can EGT be used in any way to indicate
onset of detonation?
Rich

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of Grant Crockett
> Sent: 05 March 2001 16:42
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Tuning with EGT
>
>
> Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
>
> If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> optimum performance, without detonation.
>
> end
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----------
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without
> the quotes)
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  5 09:32:53 2001
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From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
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References: <20010305164130.24368.qmail@web10315.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 12:37:22 -0500
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We used to use EGTs for tuning but have switched to individual AFRs. We have
found the AFR to react much faster than the EGT. If you look at the time
constansts for most thermocouples, the amount of time required to get to 90%
of the actual reading is often measured in seconds while the UEGO sensors
are measured in milliseconds. Also, you can be rich or lean and cause
similar EGT's to occur depending on where the combustion is taking place (in
the chamber or in the exhaust).

Just my $0.02

Jason

> Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
>
> If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> optimum performance, without detonation.
>
> end
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  5 09:52:00 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT
Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 12:51:22 -0500
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I have seen various discussion on this issue. I would agree that tuning by 
EGT alone can be dangerous becuase it can occur at different AFR's. Likewise 
tuning with AFR alone can also be a limitation becuase you don't know how 
close to the threshold before detonation you are. My comments apply largely 
to turbo efi cars as that is my experience but it is very possible to be at 
desired AFR but be 100+ deg F cool on the EGT, that means that ther is some 
room for more power to be made. I feel that both are probably better then 
one or the other. That being said I would rather have an AFR if I was 
limited to only one.
Justin


>From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT
>Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 12:37:22 -0500
>
>We used to use EGTs for tuning but have switched to individual AFRs. We 
>have
>found the AFR to react much faster than the EGT. If you look at the time
>constansts for most thermocouples, the amount of time required to get to 
>90%
>of the actual reading is often measured in seconds while the UEGO sensors
>are measured in milliseconds. Also, you can be rich or lean and cause
>similar EGT's to occur depending on where the combustion is taking place 
>(in
>the chamber or in the exhaust).
>
>Just my $0.02
>
>Jason
>
> > Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> > gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> > thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> > heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
> >
> > If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> > I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> > optimum performance, without detonation.
> >
> > end
> > 
>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>--
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>majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  5 10:36:08 2001
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@home.com>
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> I am having trouble with my fuel injection.Some co workers and I are
stumped
> as to what is wrong.
>
> The Integrator will bounce between 240-255 and 0. At idle it will read in
> the upper 200's. It will hit 0 with throttle tip in and go back and forth
> between 2xx and 0 during driving. 02 fluctuates and crosscounts. All other
> sensors seem to be reading ok. Block learn is 124 to 128, as seen on a
Snap
> on Scanner.
>
>Chris



Does your vehicle have an actual driveability problem that you are
attempting to cure, or is this just something that you've noticed while
staring at the scantool periodically?  I had a similar situation once, and
eventually decided it was a software and/or scan tool glitch.  The problem
only occurred when using my Snap-On MT2500 scan tool, but was absent when
using a Tech I.  The vehicle ran fine.

Every once in awhile, one frame of data would get messed up, and then the
next would typically be fine.  Never more than 2 messed frames in a row.
The only two parameters that were affected were the INT and the ESC status.
INT would read funny (ie:
27.....41.....48......0......63.....66......70......225.....232.........
real numbers from scans of that vehicle).  ESC would toggle from NO to YES
whenever the INT was messed.

If you don't have an actual driveability problem, and if you don't think
that your computer is suffering some form of reset (monitor the EST bypass
line, and power & ground lines, with an oscilloscope to look for glitches),
then I would ignore the whole deal.

Walt.

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  5 10:37:25 2001
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To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 12:35:17 -0600 
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Has anybody tried the new RTD type EGT that are on the newer cars they are
supposed to be much faster than thermocouples 

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Jason R. Haines [SMTP:jhaines@lingenfelter.com]
> Sent:	Monday, March 05, 2001 11:37 AM
> To:	diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject:	Re: Tuning with EGT
> 
> We used to use EGTs for tuning but have switched to individual AFRs. We
> have
> found the AFR to react much faster than the EGT. If you look at the time
> constansts for most thermocouples, the amount of time required to get to
> 90%
> of the actual reading is often measured in seconds while the UEGO sensors
> are measured in milliseconds. Also, you can be rich or lean and cause
> similar EGT's to occur depending on where the combustion is taking place
> (in
> the chamber or in the exhaust).
> 
> Just my $0.02
> 
> Jason
> 
> > Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> > gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> > thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> > heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
> >
> > If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> > I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> > optimum performance, without detonation.
> >
> > end
> >
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
> majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> >
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  5 10:57:54 2001
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Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 12:56:59 -0600
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT
From: "Josh Pullen" <joshpullen@onebox.com>
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EGT's can really only indicate that you may be running lean or not. 
But there are can be other causes for detonation than just a lean condition.

-- 
Josh Pullen
1994 HKS T04R Supra Turbo 
http://jmpvm.dyndns.org


---- "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net> wrote:
> Hmmm, that's an interesting thought - can EGT be used in any way to
> indicate
> onset of detonation?
> Rich
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> > Behalf Of Grant Crockett
> > Sent: 05 March 2001 16:42
> > To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > Subject: Tuning with EGT
> >
> >
> > Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> > gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> > thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> > heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
> >
> > If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> > I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> > optimum performance, without detonation.
> >
> > end
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
> > ----------
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without
> > the quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> 
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> 

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EGT's are about reaching the thermal limits of the engine.
No more, nor less.
You can change the EGTs by changing timing, and fuel, etc..

You monitor EGTs, not tune to a specific EGT, though folks often fall into
it worked for Mr ABC, so it is a Golden Rule.



----- Original Message -----
From: "Josh Pullen" <joshpullen@onebox.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 1:56 PM
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT


> EGT's can really only indicate that you may be running lean or not.
> But there are can be other causes for detonation than just a lean
condition.
>
> --
> Josh Pullen
> 1994 HKS T04R Supra Turbo
> http://jmpvm.dyndns.org
>
>
> ---- "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net> wrote:
> > Hmmm, that's an interesting thought - can EGT be used in any way to
> > indicate
> > onset of detonation?
> > Rich
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> > > Behalf Of Grant Crockett
> > > Sent: 05 March 2001 16:42
> > > To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > > Subject: Tuning with EGT
> > >
> > >
> > > Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> > > gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> > > thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> > > heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
> > >
> > > If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> > > I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> > > optimum performance, without detonation.
> > >
> > > end
> > > ------------------------------------------------------------------
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> >
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  5 12:26:03 2001
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From: "Larry Heath" <lgheath@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <20010305164130.24368.qmail@web10315.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 15:24:00 -0500
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Most guys that drag race use EGT to tune. Most of us look for a max of about
1200 to 1250 degrees F as the car crosses the finish line, i.e. max load max
rpm. This is of course using fuels with very high octane ratings, generally
no less than 105 octane and as much as 118, that are generally not prone to
detonation even under extreme conditions. I lot of guys use the EGT's in
tuning alcohol fueled engines, as the typical signs use to tune gas fired
engines are generally not present, the alcohol fuel being very clean burning
and has such a wide range of flammability. Most guys seem to use the same
basic temp range as a max, although I have seen references to EGT's much
lower than the 1200 to 1250 range as being ideal for max power.

Thermocouples (K type) are generally fairly slow as far as response time
goes, at least for the typical thermocouples used in this application. The
faster the response rate of the couple the shorter the average life of the
unit is.  I have seen bare wire thermocouples with standard response times
of as little as .004 sec, but these would not last any significant amount of
time, in an exhaust gas environment. About the minimum wire size that would
be usable as a EGT is .015" and this has about a .8 sec response time going
from 100 to 800 degrees in 60 ft/sec gas.

Along these same lines I have a question; does any have any info about
tuning alcohol fueled engines using an O2 sensor or other similar sensor to
allow A/F ratios to be determined on a much faster basis than the typical
EGT thermocouple sensors.

Later Larry

----- Original Message -----
From: "Grant Crockett" <idratherbedriving@yahoo.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 11:41 AM
Subject: Tuning with EGT


> Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
>
> If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> optimum performance, without detonation.
>
> end
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 20:27:36 -0500
Subject: Re: $175 CO meter?
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"Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>  wrote...
>in a green box  it sounds like it may be made by 'Gunsons'. If it is the
> unit I'm thinking of, your conclusion is correct - best left in the
shop -
> we had one here at work for evaluation (albeit a bit unfairly comparing
it
> to an infra-red absorption meter) and it wasn't much use.
> However I may be completely wrong and thinking of a different 
> unit.......

The Gunson is the only one I have ever seen (okay, they make two models -
one with a digital gauge, the other a sweep hand).  I went so far as to
buy one of these (the digital one), only to return shortly after
purchase.  IMO, it is for very crude measurements - mine swung wildly
around a range of negative (?) PPM to over a hundred PPM on a car that
was in a very clean state of tune.

I suspect the $35 home CO meter may actually be more accurate, and I'd be
interested to hear of your success (or failure) in using it for exhaust
CO measurement.

Brad
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Mar  5 19:40:14 2001
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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References: <20010305.205651.-172331.0.bjanesi@juno.com>
Subject: Re: $175 CO meter?
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 22:36:57 -0500
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Sounds like an update on the old Heathkit CO2 meter kit.
Sensor was just part of a whetstone bridge.
State of the art circa 1975
Bruce

From: <bjanesi@juno.com>
> "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>  wrote...
> >in a green box  it sounds like it may be made by 'Gunsons'. If it is the
> > unit I'm thinking of, your conclusion is correct - best left in the
> shop -
> > we had one here at work for evaluation (albeit a bit unfairly comparing
> it
> > to an infra-red absorption meter) and it wasn't much use.
> > However I may be completely wrong and thinking of a different 
> > unit.......
> 
> The Gunson is the only one I have ever seen (okay, they make two models -
> one with a digital gauge, the other a sweep hand).  I went so far as to
> buy one of these (the digital one), only to return shortly after
> purchase.  IMO, it is for very crude measurements - mine swung wildly
> around a range of negative (?) PPM to over a hundred PPM on a car that
> was in a very clean state of tune.
> 
> I suspect the $35 home CO meter may actually be more accurate, and I'd be
> interested to hear of your success (or failure) in using it for exhaust
> CO measurement.
> 
> Brad

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  6 05:25:21 2001
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>

Nice meter but needs changes needed to read accurate  regulate voltage into
whetstone bridge then put a constant velocity pump on it . Remember to not go way
lean it will invert and show rich.  Nice meter just a bit slower than new wide band
o2 meters but no sensor to change ever . Tune race car with one for years.

Steve

> Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 22:36:57 -0500
> From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
> Subject: Re: $175 CO meter?
>
> Sounds like an update on the old Heathkit CO2 meter kit.
> Sensor was just part of a whetstone bridge.
> State of the art circa 1975
> Bruce

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Ditto that for me.  The thought of using a cheap home CO meter is very
enticing.  As a home tuner I really don't care what the absolute value of a
particular measurement is.  I'm only interested in the relative magnitude.
I would use this for tuning my motorcycle and a small portable unit would
be very attractive.  Obviously one would have to remove the sensor for
insertion into the exhaust gas stream and make a DC supply but that should
be easy.  This could be a good example of the cost efficiencies of mass
manufacturing allowing a non-standard use.
Comments anyone?

Neil



>
I suspect the $35 home CO meter may actually be more accurate, and I'd be
interested to hear of your success (or failure) in using it for exhaust
CO measurement.
>



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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  6 11:46:24 2001
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Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 14:42:42 -0500
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Hi Bruce!

Long time, no type.

Andris Skulte told me that the EGOR project was in a state where it output an
analog signal to a high-impedance input. I looked at the project notes but there
does not seem to be any documentation that accompanies the schematics. Is there
any documentation that describes the circuit and the operation of this system?
Has anyone created a printed circuit board?

Email me if you want to discuss it further. I'd like to know the current state
of this project.

Thanks,
Daniel Burk
renewed DIY_EFI'er who dropped off the list back in '97 to start a family.
http://www.isthq.com/~dan/fcar.html

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  6 15:57:44 2001
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Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 15:57:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Stone <gteran@yahoo.com>
Subject: Hello (wideband O2)
To: DIY_EFI@lists.diy-efi.org
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I just joined the list. This is probably a frequently asked question,
if so I'm sorry, but where can I buy a wideband O2 sensor kit for my
car? I saw the DYI kit at diy-efi.org but I got a D in Electronics in
college for a reason :) FETs etc scare me. JMS sells a kit for $1100.
I have a friend who works for Ford near Dearborn who said he can get
me one for about $800. Are these reasonable prices? I can weld a bung
in my exhaust no problem but I'd prefer to not have to fab my own LED
display. Thanks.

Gaston

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I've missed much of this thread - can you advise where I can find (or what 
it takes to build) this CO meter?

I'd love to have one.

At 07:27 PM 3/4/01, you wrote:
>"Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>  wrote...
> >in a green box  it sounds like it may be made by 'Gunsons'. If it is the
> > unit I'm thinking of, your conclusion is correct - best left in the
>shop -
> > we had one here at work for evaluation (albeit a bit unfairly comparing
>it
> > to an infra-red absorption meter) and it wasn't much use.
> > However I may be completely wrong and thinking of a different
> > unit.......
>
>The Gunson is the only one I have ever seen (okay, they make two models -
>one with a digital gauge, the other a sweep hand).  I went so far as to
>buy one of these (the digital one), only to return shortly after
>purchase.  IMO, it is for very crude measurements - mine swung wildly
>around a range of negative (?) PPM to over a hundred PPM on a car that
>was in a very clean state of tune.
>
>I suspect the $35 home CO meter may actually be more accurate, and I'd be
>interested to hear of your success (or failure) in using it for exhaust
>CO measurement.
>
>Brad
>________________________________________________________________
>GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
>Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
>Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
>http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Chris in Mid-TN

ICQ# 5944649

1978 Volkswagen Westfalia               (almost done)
1965 VW Beetle   with a Type IV power   (perpetual project)
1949 Chevy 3100 p/u             (daily driver)
1999 Honda CR-V                 (wife's ride)
1981 Honda CB900 Custom moto-sickle     (other daily driver)
1972 Hodaka Wombat (FOR SALE)   (needs new home)

1997 Wife named Holly
2000 model son named Zane

several used felines (2 shiny black, one in primer)


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<html>
I've missed much of this thread - can you advise where I can find (or
what it takes to build) this CO meter?<br>
<br>
I'd love to have one.<br>
<br>
At 07:27 PM 3/4/01, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>&quot;Rich M&quot;
&lt;rsrich@cwcom.net&gt;&nbsp; wrote...<br>
&gt;in a green box&nbsp; it sounds like it may be made by 'Gunsons'. If
it is the<br>
&gt; unit I'm thinking of, your conclusion is correct - best left in
the<br>
shop -<br>
&gt; we had one here at work for evaluation (albeit a bit unfairly
comparing<br>
it<br>
&gt; to an infra-red absorption meter) and it wasn't much use.<br>
&gt; However I may be completely wrong and thinking of a different <br>
&gt; unit.......<br>
<br>
The Gunson is the only one I have ever seen (okay, they make two models
-<br>
one with a digital gauge, the other a sweep hand).&nbsp; I went so far as
to<br>
buy one of these (the digital one), only to return shortly after<br>
purchase.&nbsp; IMO, it is for very crude measurements - mine swung
wildly<br>
around a range of negative (?) PPM to over a hundred PPM on a car
that<br>
was in a very clean state of tune.<br>
<br>
I suspect the $35 home CO meter may actually be more accurate, and I'd
be<br>
interested to hear of your success (or failure) in using it for
exhaust<br>
CO measurement.<br>
<br>
Brad<br>
________________________________________________________________<br>
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!<br>
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!<br>
Join Juno today!&nbsp; For your FREE software, visit:<br>
<a href="http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj" eudora="autourl">http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj</a>.<br>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send &quot;unsubscribe diy_efi&quot;
(without the quotes)<br>
in the body of a message (not the subject) to
majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org</blockquote><br>

<font face="Unicorn" size=6 color="#008080"><b>Chris</font><font face="Unicorn" size=6>
</b></font><font face="Arial, Helvetica" size=4>in Mid-TN<br>
<br>
</font><font color="#808000"><b>ICQ# 5944649<br>
<br>
</b></font>1978 <font face="Diner" size=5 color="#800000">Volkswagen Westfalia</font> <x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><font size=4>(almost done)<br>
</font>1965 <font face="Diner" size=5 color="#800000">VW Beetle</font><font face="Diner">&nbsp;&nbsp; </font>with a Type IV power <x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>(<font color="#FF0000">perpetual</font><font color="#000080"> project</font>)<br>
1949 <font face="Diner" size=5 color="#800000">Chevy 3100</font> p/u&nbsp; <x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>(daily driver)<br>
1999 <font face="Diner" size=5 color="#800000">Honda CR-V<x-tab>&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab><x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab></font><font face="Courier, Courier">(wife's ride)<br>
</font>1981 <font face="Diner" size=5 color="#800000">Honda CB900 Custom</font> moto-sickle<x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>(other daily driver)<br>
1972 <font color="#800000"><b>Hodaka Wombat</b></font> (<font size=5 color="#FF0000"><b><u>FOR SALE</u></b></font>)<x-tab>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</x-tab>(needs new home)<br>
<br>
1997 Wife named<font color="#0000FF"> </font><font face="Vivaldi" size=7 color="#000080">Holly<br>
</font>2000 model son named <font face="Librarian" size=5 color="#0000FF">Zane<br>
<br>
</font>several used felines (2 shiny black, one in primer)<br>
<br>
</html>

--=====================_4625903==_.ALT--

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  6 23:28:47 2001
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From: "James Ballenger" <vtjballeng@yifan.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Electromotive software
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 02:29:02 -0500
Message-ID: <001f01c0a6d8$49357200$0bc8c8c8@Vtech>
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	Their software is very nice and very easy to tune with.  I can provide
screenshots for any functions you guys would want.  Their 3d maps of fuel
and ignition are a lot nicer than my haltech units.

James Ballenger

>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
>Behalf Of Programmer
>Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 1:10 PM
>To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>Subject: Electromotive software
>
>
>Hey guys,
>Anyone see the issue of "Sport Compact Car" with the Subaru Impreza mod
>using the Electromotice TECII software ?? Looks very
>cool...Looks like a
>very tuneable system.
>
>Lyndon.
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Mar  6 23:42:07 2001
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From: "James Ballenger" <vtjballeng@yifan.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: CNP coils
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 02:42:20 -0500
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	Great website.  Any idea why the subarban coils are referenced as a coil
kit?  I wonder why they would be more expensive than the camaro version?

	Also, I have quite a few GM part #'s for sensors and I am looking for the
harness side for hooking up.  Anyone have any ideas where I might find some
harness information?  The local auto stores don't have it or won't help me
out on this one.

Thanks,
James Ballenger

>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
>Behalf Of Jurgen Hartwig
>Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 12:20 PM
>To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>Subject: Re: CNP coils
>
>
>> this one came off of a 99 Camaro.  there was also a 98 TA (the tag on
>the
>> car reads "600hp TA", believe it, I saw the dyno sheet, blower &
>squeeze)
>> there that had the exact same setup.  the part number on the
>coils (all
>16)
>> was 12558948 (top line, p/n?), 09T29-0200 (bottom line, Date code?)
>>
>
>
>Bob, sorry I don't have the info about the pin identification.
> Hopefully,
>someone can assist.
>
>However, I did do some rudimentary searching for the coils.
>The cheapest
>factory coils were $28.17 for the coils you have now,
>12558948, and $37.53
>for the 2000 Suburban coils, 5.3L.  These prices were quoted from
>www.gmpartsdirect.com.  They were quite a bit cheaper than all
>the other
>vendors.
>
>Now, as you already know, the coil-on-plug setup on the V8s is not
>physically coil on each plug.  There is a spark plug wire.  Apparently,
>the reason for this setup is to keep the exhaust manifolds
>from damaging
>the coils.  However, there are some COP (coil-on-plug) setups which
>physically sit atop the spark plug and are bolted to a bracket for
>support.  From what I have seen, some Toyotas and Isuzus may
>utilize this
>coil.  This would likely be preferably to the GM coils for those not
>driving V8.
>
>GM also installs the COP on their Lincoln line, including LS
>and the SUV,
>I believe.  I wonder if GM installs COP on every V8, or only a handful.
>
>When I am in town sometime, I will make a point to stop at
>some junkyards
>and probe around.
>
>Jay
>
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>

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  7 00:16:16 2001
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Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 00:14:37 -0800
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: Ira Emus <ira@CamaroElectronics.com>
Subject: RE: CNP coils
In-Reply-To: <002001c0a6da$248aa040$0bc8c8c8@Vtech>
References: <008d01c0a33c$f50848e0$9800a8c0@midsouth.rr.com>
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At 02:42 AM 3/7/01 -0500, you wrote:
> >Bob, sorry I don't have the info about the pin identification.
> > Hopefully, someone can assist.

My 2000 Camaro shop manual shows the coil connections are:

A - Ground
B - Reference low  (seems to be ground in the PCM, probably ground return 
for the "Control signal")
C - Control signal
D - 12V with ignition on.

The manual indicates that the coil is fired by grounding pin C.

I hope that helps.

Ira

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  7 05:17:48 2001
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From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
To: "DIY_EFI" <DIY_EFI@lists.diy-efi.org>
Subject: spark timing measurement and recording
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 08:21:37 -0500
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Has anyone used any equipment to actually measure and record ignition timing
at the engine. Accurate Technologies sells a unit to do this but it costs
several thousand dollars. One of the ECM wide band meters also offers this
information but it too costs several thousand dollars. I would think with a
crank position sensor and a pickup on a spark plug wire that this would not
be that difficult to record. Any ideas on how to build such a device? Anyone
else already make something like this but at lower cost? It would be nice to
record ignition timing along with rpm and the other normally recorded
variables in our data acquisition systems.


Thanks,


Jason




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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <002001c0a6da$248aa040$0bc8c8c8@Vtech>
Subject: Re: CNP coils
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Any AC/Delco supplier should be able to get a hold of a Pigtail / Connector
Catalog.   Has pics, and connectors cross referenced.
Bruce



From: "James Ballenger" <vtjballeng@yifan.net>

> Also, I have quite a few GM part #'s for sensors and I am looking for the
> harness side for hooking up.  Anyone have any ideas where I might find
some
> harness information?  The local auto stores don't have it or won't help me
> out on this one.
> James Ballenger


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  7 08:33:31 2001
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To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: Ira Emus <ira@CamaroElectronics.com>
Subject: Re: spark timing measurement and recording
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At 08:21 AM 3/7/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Has anyone used any equipment to actually measure and record ignition timing
>at the engine.

I have a Fluke Model 98 scopemeter that will do this if there is a TDC 
crank pickup. Can't imagine it would be that hard to rig up a pickup if you 
had the meter or something similar.

Ira

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To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 12:09:13 -0500 
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I use 8 EGTs to aid in tuning a 1600 HP Turbo setup. We see temps from 1700
F to
1900 F.  Lets say we do not like to see anything over 1900 but we have seen
it.

Typical range I would say for blown applications is 1600 - 1800 F.

As far as tuning, its aids in individual cylinder tuning, but there is no
absolute
value that you can tune for.  Its more or less used as a reference from the
last 
pass.  Its also great to see if you have a problem with any one cylinder.
We use
116 octane.  Combined with wide band 02 provides a great basis to tune from.

steve

-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Heath [mailto:lgheath@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 3:24 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT


Most guys that drag race use EGT to tune. Most of us look for a max of about
1200 to 1250 degrees F as the car crosses the finish line, i.e. max load max
rpm. This is of course using fuels with very high octane ratings, generally
no less than 105 octane and as much as 118, that are generally not prone to
detonation even under extreme conditions. I lot of guys use the EGT's in
tuning alcohol fueled engines, as the typical signs use to tune gas fired
engines are generally not present, the alcohol fuel being very clean burning
and has such a wide range of flammability. Most guys seem to use the same
basic temp range as a max, although I have seen references to EGT's much
lower than the 1200 to 1250 range as being ideal for max power.

Thermocouples (K type) are generally fairly slow as far as response time
goes, at least for the typical thermocouples used in this application. The
faster the response rate of the couple the shorter the average life of the
unit is.  I have seen bare wire thermocouples with standard response times
of as little as .004 sec, but these would not last any significant amount of
time, in an exhaust gas environment. About the minimum wire size that would
be usable as a EGT is .015" and this has about a .8 sec response time going
from 100 to 800 degrees in 60 ft/sec gas.

Along these same lines I have a question; does any have any info about
tuning alcohol fueled engines using an O2 sensor or other similar sensor to
allow A/F ratios to be determined on a much faster basis than the typical
EGT thermocouple sensors.

Later Larry

----- Original Message -----
From: "Grant Crockett" <idratherbedriving@yahoo.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 11:41 AM
Subject: Tuning with EGT


> Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
>
> If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> optimum performance, without detonation.
>
> end
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  7 10:58:08 2001
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From: "Huw Scourfield" <Huw.Scourfield@btinternet.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Positive edge triggered ignition module
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 18:59:23 -0000
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Anyone know what vehicle might use a +ve edge triggered constant energy
module?, needs to be sold in UK really for availability etc. Thinking of
buying one of Perfect Powers cheaper ignition controllers.
    Thanks,
        Huw

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  7 12:00:57 2001
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From: "James Ballenger" <vtjballeng@yifan.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: CNP coils
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 15:01:11 -0500
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	Thank you for pointing out the obvious... In the message below I said that
that was not a good option for me and I was looking for something else..
The local autostores are willing to help, but don't carry the pigtails and
dont have a cross ref to Gm part #.  The local AC Delco suppliers, namely GM
dealerships, are less than enthusiatic about looking up parts and I have to
do some traveling to get to one.  That gmpartsdirect site is great, too bad
I couldn't get a harness based on the part I was looking up.

James Ballenger

>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
>Behalf Of Bruce Plecan
>Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 11:24 AM
>To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>Subject: Re: CNP coils
>
>
>
>Any AC/Delco supplier should be able to get a hold of a
>Pigtail / Connector
>Catalog.   Has pics, and connectors cross referenced.
>Bruce
>
>
>
>From: "James Ballenger" <vtjballeng@yifan.net>
>
>> Also, I have quite a few GM part #'s for sensors and I am
>looking for the
>> harness side for hooking up.  Anyone have any ideas where I
>might find
>some
>> harness information?  The local auto stores don't have it or
>won't help me
>> out on this one.
>> James Ballenger
>
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------
>-------------
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>

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  7 12:35:01 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: CNP coils
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 15:33:47 -0500 
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Call Packard.  They are in Ohio somewhere.  I don't have the # handy.  Ask
for a CSR.
They should be able to help.  Don't tell them you want one.  Tell them you
need samples
for prototypes.

-----Original Message-----
From: James Ballenger [mailto:vtjballeng@yifan.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 3:01 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: CNP coils


	Thank you for pointing out the obvious... In the message below I
said that
that was not a good option for me and I was looking for something else..
The local autostores are willing to help, but don't carry the pigtails and
dont have a cross ref to Gm part #.  The local AC Delco suppliers, namely GM
dealerships, are less than enthusiatic about looking up parts and I have to
do some traveling to get to one.  That gmpartsdirect site is great, too bad
I couldn't get a harness based on the part I was looking up.

James Ballenger

>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
>Behalf Of Bruce Plecan
>Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 11:24 AM
>To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>Subject: Re: CNP coils
>
>
>
>Any AC/Delco supplier should be able to get a hold of a
>Pigtail / Connector
>Catalog.   Has pics, and connectors cross referenced.
>Bruce
>
>
>
>From: "James Ballenger" <vtjballeng@yifan.net>
>
>> Also, I have quite a few GM part #'s for sensors and I am
>looking for the
>> harness side for hooking up.  Anyone have any ideas where I
>might find
>some
>> harness information?  The local auto stores don't have it or
>won't help me
>> out on this one.
>> James Ballenger
>
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------
>-------------
>To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi"
>(without the quotes)
>in the body of a message (not the subject) to
>majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  7 12:51:19 2001
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Subject: Re: spark timing measurement and recording
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Yes, exactly.  I use a Fluke 97 scopemeter and pick off the crank trigger signal and the signal to the coil on DIS cars or use an inductive pickup on the plug wire.
jc




In a message dated Wed, 7 Mar 2001 11:37:10 AM Eastern Standard Time, Ira Emus <ira@CamaroElectronics.com> writes:

<< At 08:21 AM 3/7/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Has anyone used any equipment to actually measure and record ignition timing
>at the engine.

I have a Fluke Model 98 scopemeter that will do this if there is a TDC 
crank pickup. Can't imagine it would be that hard to rig up a pickup if you 
had the meter or something similar.

Ira

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 >>


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  7 12:51:28 2001
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Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 12:51:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Grant Crockett <idratherbedriving@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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How close is your probe to the exhaust port?

--- Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com wrote:
> I use 8 EGTs to aid in tuning a 1600 HP Turbo setup.
> We see temps from 1700
> F to
> 1900 F.  Lets say we do not like to see anything
> over 1900 but we have seen
> it.
> 
> Typical range I would say for blown applications is
> 1600 - 1800 F.
> 
> As far as tuning, its aids in individual cylinder
> tuning, but there is no
> absolute
> value that you can tune for.  Its more or less used
> as a reference from the
> last 
> pass.  Its also great to see if you have a problem
> with any one cylinder.
> We use
> 116 octane.  Combined with wide band 02 provides a
> great basis to tune from.
> 
> steve
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Heath [mailto:lgheath@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 3:24 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT
> 
> 
> Most guys that drag race use EGT to tune. Most of us
> look for a max of about
> 1200 to 1250 degrees F as the car crosses the finish
> line, i.e. max load max
> rpm. This is of course using fuels with very high
> octane ratings, generally
> no less than 105 octane and as much as 118, that are
> generally not prone to
> detonation even under extreme conditions. I lot of
> guys use the EGT's in
> tuning alcohol fueled engines, as the typical signs
> use to tune gas fired
> engines are generally not present, the alcohol fuel
> being very clean burning
> and has such a wide range of flammability. Most guys
> seem to use the same
> basic temp range as a max, although I have seen
> references to EGT's much
> lower than the 1200 to 1250 range as being ideal for
> max power.
> 
> Thermocouples (K type) are generally fairly slow as
> far as response time
> goes, at least for the typical thermocouples used in
> this application. The
> faster the response rate of the couple the shorter
> the average life of the
> unit is.  I have seen bare wire thermocouples with
> standard response times
> of as little as .004 sec, but these would not last
> any significant amount of
> time, in an exhaust gas environment. About the
> minimum wire size that would
> be usable as a EGT is .015" and this has about a .8
> sec response time going
> from 100 to 800 degrees in 60 ft/sec gas.
> 
> Along these same lines I have a question; does any
> have any info about
> tuning alcohol fueled engines using an O2 sensor or
> other similar sensor to
> allow A/F ratios to be determined on a much faster
> basis than the typical
> EGT thermocouple sensors.
> 
> Later Larry
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Grant Crockett" <idratherbedriving@yahoo.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 11:41 AM
> Subject: Tuning with EGT
> 
> 
> > Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with
> exhaust
> > gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that
> the
> > thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to
> high
> > heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
> >
> > If so, what are you getting for temperature
> readings?
> > I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> > optimum performance, without detonation.
> >
> > end
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  7 13:05:47 2001
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From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
To: "GMECM" <gmecm@diy-efi.org>
Cc: "DIY_EFI" <DIY_EFI@lists.diy-efi.org>
Subject: reading block learn values from GM EFI systems?
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 15:51:19 -0500
Organization: Lingenfelter Performance Engineering
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Does anyone know of a way to read/view all of the individual block
learn/fuel trim values for each cell/block that are stored in the ECM/PCM
(when retaining block learn values is enabled)? Could this be obtained
through the diagnostic port or copied off of some internal chip?


Jason


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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <002301c0a741$5bd989f0$0bc8c8c8@Vtech>
Subject: Re: CNP coils
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 16:18:42 -0500
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If a store carries AC Spark Plugs they have access to ordering the book.
Matter of fact they can order a book for you.     Mine is getting seriously
old now, but as I recall was $5.    Sounds like you give up way too easy,
also, pays to make friends.
Bruce



From: "James Ballenger" <vtjballeng@yifan.net>
> Thank you for pointing out the obvious... In the message below I said that
> that was not a good option for me and I was looking for something else..
> The local autostores are willing to help, but don't carry the pigtails and
> dont have a cross ref to Gm part #.  The local AC Delco suppliers, namely
GM
> dealerships, are less than enthusiatic about looking up parts and I have
to
> do some traveling to get to one.  That gmpartsdirect site is great, too
bad
> I couldn't get a harness based on the part I was looking up.
>
> James Ballenger
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> >Behalf Of Bruce Plecan
> >Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 11:24 AM
> >To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> >Subject: Re: CNP coils
> >
> >
> >
> >Any AC/Delco supplier should be able to get a hold of a
> >Pigtail / Connector
> >Catalog.   Has pics, and connectors cross referenced.
> >Bruce
> >
> >
> >
> >From: "James Ballenger" <vtjballeng@yifan.net>
> >
> >> Also, I have quite a few GM part #'s for sensors and I am
> >looking for the
> >> harness side for hooking up.  Anyone have any ideas where I
> >might find
> >some
> >> harness information?  The local auto stores don't have it or
> >won't help me
> >> out on this one.
> >> James Ballenger
> >
> >
> >---------------------------------------------------------------
> >-------------
> >To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi"
> >(without the quotes)
> >in the body of a message (not the subject) to
> >majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  7 13:34:13 2001
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From: "Flanagan, Steve" <Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 16:25:46 -0500 
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about 4 in from the header bracket (exhaust port).  I think, but 
in this range, I have not looked at car since last Oct.  At my
brothers (he owns it).

Just for group share: our tuner put it on the dyno last year and
leaned it out chasing a inconsistent sputter, we saw over 1900
and within 6-10 passes it went to pieces.  

We ran several seasons around 1800 and never had any structural 
damage when examined during freshen ups.

Be warned, 1900+ is the danger zone, 1800-1900 is playing with fire
also.

Hope this helps,  By the way, the motor is all state of the art,
no OEM.  So don't try this with your leased car!!!!!

Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: Grant Crockett [mailto:idratherbedriving@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 3:51 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT


How close is your probe to the exhaust port?

--- Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com wrote:
> I use 8 EGTs to aid in tuning a 1600 HP Turbo setup.
> We see temps from 1700
> F to
> 1900 F.  Lets say we do not like to see anything
> over 1900 but we have seen
> it.
> 
> Typical range I would say for blown applications is
> 1600 - 1800 F.
> 
> As far as tuning, its aids in individual cylinder
> tuning, but there is no
> absolute
> value that you can tune for.  Its more or less used
> as a reference from the
> last 
> pass.  Its also great to see if you have a problem
> with any one cylinder.
> We use
> 116 octane.  Combined with wide band 02 provides a
> great basis to tune from.
> 
> steve
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Heath [mailto:lgheath@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 3:24 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT
> 
> 
> Most guys that drag race use EGT to tune. Most of us
> look for a max of about
> 1200 to 1250 degrees F as the car crosses the finish
> line, i.e. max load max
> rpm. This is of course using fuels with very high
> octane ratings, generally
> no less than 105 octane and as much as 118, that are
> generally not prone to
> detonation even under extreme conditions. I lot of
> guys use the EGT's in
> tuning alcohol fueled engines, as the typical signs
> use to tune gas fired
> engines are generally not present, the alcohol fuel
> being very clean burning
> and has such a wide range of flammability. Most guys
> seem to use the same
> basic temp range as a max, although I have seen
> references to EGT's much
> lower than the 1200 to 1250 range as being ideal for
> max power.
> 
> Thermocouples (K type) are generally fairly slow as
> far as response time
> goes, at least for the typical thermocouples used in
> this application. The
> faster the response rate of the couple the shorter
> the average life of the
> unit is.  I have seen bare wire thermocouples with
> standard response times
> of as little as .004 sec, but these would not last
> any significant amount of
> time, in an exhaust gas environment. About the
> minimum wire size that would
> be usable as a EGT is .015" and this has about a .8
> sec response time going
> from 100 to 800 degrees in 60 ft/sec gas.
> 
> Along these same lines I have a question; does any
> have any info about
> tuning alcohol fueled engines using an O2 sensor or
> other similar sensor to
> allow A/F ratios to be determined on a much faster
> basis than the typical
> EGT thermocouple sensors.
> 
> Later Larry
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Grant Crockett" <idratherbedriving@yahoo.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 11:41 AM
> Subject: Tuning with EGT
> 
> 
> > Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with
> exhaust
> > gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that
> the
> > thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to
> high
> > heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
> >
> > If so, what are you getting for temperature
> readings?
> > I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> > optimum performance, without detonation.
> >
> > end
> >
>
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> majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> 
>
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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References: <19D424DA3941D41189DE0008C7EB79DB52E3C4@hqbedex3.corp.bam.com>
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Again, don't tune to a specific temperature.
Record the temp at optimine performance.
I don't know of any engine that will survive at over 2000dF, but there are
any number that get best performance at like 1200dF.
EGT is in part about the thermal limits of the engine, not always max HP
Bruce



From: "Flanagan, Steve" <Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com>
 about 4 in from the header bracket (exhaust port).  I think, but
> in this range, I have not looked at car since last Oct.  At my
> brothers (he owns it).
> Just for group share: our tuner put it on the dyno last year and
> leaned it out chasing a inconsistent sputter, we saw over 1900
> and within 6-10 passes it went to pieces.
> We ran several seasons around 1800 and never had any structural
> damage when examined during freshen ups.
> Be warned, 1900+ is the danger zone, 1800-1900 is playing with fire
> also.
> Hope this helps,  By the way, the motor is all state of the art,
> no OEM.  So don't try this with your leased car!!!!!
> Steve
> From: Grant Crockett [mailto:idratherbedriving@yahoo.com]
> How close is your probe to the exhaust port?

> --- Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com wrote:
> > I use 8 EGTs to aid in tuning a 1600 HP Turbo setup.
> > We see temps from 1700
> > F to
> > 1900 F.  Lets say we do not like to see anything
> > over 1900 but we have seen
> > it.
> >
> > Typical range I would say for blown applications is
> > 1600 - 1800 F.
> >
> > As far as tuning, its aids in individual cylinder
> > tuning, but there is no
> > absolute
> > value that you can tune for.  Its more or less used
> > as a reference from the
> > last
> > pass.  Its also great to see if you have a problem
> > with any one cylinder.
> > We use
> > 116 octane.  Combined with wide band 02 provides a
> > great basis to tune from.
> >
> > steve
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Larry Heath [mailto:lgheath@earthlink.net]
> > Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 3:24 PM
> > To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT
> >
> >
> > Most guys that drag race use EGT to tune. Most of us
> > look for a max of about
> > 1200 to 1250 degrees F as the car crosses the finish
> > line, i.e. max load max
> > rpm. This is of course using fuels with very high
> > octane ratings, generally
> > no less than 105 octane and as much as 118, that are
> > generally not prone to
> > detonation even under extreme conditions. I lot of
> > guys use the EGT's in
> > tuning alcohol fueled engines, as the typical signs
> > use to tune gas fired
> > engines are generally not present, the alcohol fuel
> > being very clean burning
> > and has such a wide range of flammability. Most guys
> > seem to use the same
> > basic temp range as a max, although I have seen
> > references to EGT's much
> > lower than the 1200 to 1250 range as being ideal for
> > max power.
> >
> > Thermocouples (K type) are generally fairly slow as
> > far as response time
> > goes, at least for the typical thermocouples used in
> > this application. The
> > faster the response rate of the couple the shorter
> > the average life of the
> > unit is.  I have seen bare wire thermocouples with
> > standard response times
> > of as little as .004 sec, but these would not last
> > any significant amount of
> > time, in an exhaust gas environment. About the
> > minimum wire size that would
> > be usable as a EGT is .015" and this has about a .8
> > sec response time going
> > from 100 to 800 degrees in 60 ft/sec gas.
> >
> > Along these same lines I have a question; does any
> > have any info about
> > tuning alcohol fueled engines using an O2 sensor or
> > other similar sensor to
> > allow A/F ratios to be determined on a much faster
> > basis than the typical
> > EGT thermocouple sensors.
> >
> > Later Larry
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Grant Crockett" <idratherbedriving@yahoo.com>
> > To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> > Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 11:41 AM
> > Subject: Tuning with EGT
> >
> >
> > > Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with
> > exhaust
> > > gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that
> > the
> > > thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to
> > high
> > > heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
> > >
> > > If so, what are you getting for temperature
> > readings?
> > > I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> > > optimum performance, without detonation.
> > >
> > > end


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  7 14:08:58 2001
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Subject: Re: spark timing measurement and recording
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Who's WBEGO gives you spark along with A/F?......



> Has anyone used any equipment to actually measure and record ignition
timing
> at the engine. Accurate Technologies sells a unit to do this but it costs
> several thousand dollars. One of the ECM wide band meters also offers this
> information but it too costs several thousand dollars. I would think with
a
> crank position sensor and a pickup on a spark plug wire that this would
not
> be that difficult to record. Any ideas on how to build such a device?
Anyone
> else already make something like this but at lower cost? It would be nice
to
> record ignition timing along with rpm and the other normally recorded
> variables in our data acquisition systems.
>


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  7 14:23:32 2001
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From: "Flanagan, Steve" <Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 17:15:05 -0500 
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Agreed Bruce.  

In our application the 1700-1800 works fine, but on another setup (Nitros,
NA, Blower, more or less HP), you may find yourself wondering why the engine
left pieces all the way down the track.

Steve  



-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 4:42 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT




Again, don't tune to a specific temperature.
Record the temp at optimine performance.
I don't know of any engine that will survive at over 2000dF, but there are
any number that get best performance at like 1200dF.
EGT is in part about the thermal limits of the engine, not always max HP
Bruce



From: "Flanagan, Steve" <Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com>
 about 4 in from the header bracket (exhaust port).  I think, but
> in this range, I have not looked at car since last Oct.  At my
> brothers (he owns it).
> Just for group share: our tuner put it on the dyno last year and
> leaned it out chasing a inconsistent sputter, we saw over 1900
> and within 6-10 passes it went to pieces.
> We ran several seasons around 1800 and never had any structural
> damage when examined during freshen ups.
> Be warned, 1900+ is the danger zone, 1800-1900 is playing with fire
> also.
> Hope this helps,  By the way, the motor is all state of the art,
> no OEM.  So don't try this with your leased car!!!!!
> Steve
> From: Grant Crockett [mailto:idratherbedriving@yahoo.com]
> How close is your probe to the exhaust port?

> --- Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com wrote:
> > I use 8 EGTs to aid in tuning a 1600 HP Turbo setup.
> > We see temps from 1700
> > F to
> > 1900 F.  Lets say we do not like to see anything
> > over 1900 but we have seen
> > it.
> >
> > Typical range I would say for blown applications is
> > 1600 - 1800 F.
> >
> > As far as tuning, its aids in individual cylinder
> > tuning, but there is no
> > absolute
> > value that you can tune for.  Its more or less used
> > as a reference from the
> > last
> > pass.  Its also great to see if you have a problem
> > with any one cylinder.
> > We use
> > 116 octane.  Combined with wide band 02 provides a
> > great basis to tune from.
> >
> > steve
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Larry Heath [mailto:lgheath@earthlink.net]
> > Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 3:24 PM
> > To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT
> >
> >
> > Most guys that drag race use EGT to tune. Most of us
> > look for a max of about
> > 1200 to 1250 degrees F as the car crosses the finish
> > line, i.e. max load max
> > rpm. This is of course using fuels with very high
> > octane ratings, generally
> > no less than 105 octane and as much as 118, that are
> > generally not prone to
> > detonation even under extreme conditions. I lot of
> > guys use the EGT's in
> > tuning alcohol fueled engines, as the typical signs
> > use to tune gas fired
> > engines are generally not present, the alcohol fuel
> > being very clean burning
> > and has such a wide range of flammability. Most guys
> > seem to use the same
> > basic temp range as a max, although I have seen
> > references to EGT's much
> > lower than the 1200 to 1250 range as being ideal for
> > max power.
> >
> > Thermocouples (K type) are generally fairly slow as
> > far as response time
> > goes, at least for the typical thermocouples used in
> > this application. The
> > faster the response rate of the couple the shorter
> > the average life of the
> > unit is.  I have seen bare wire thermocouples with
> > standard response times
> > of as little as .004 sec, but these would not last
> > any significant amount of
> > time, in an exhaust gas environment. About the
> > minimum wire size that would
> > be usable as a EGT is .015" and this has about a .8
> > sec response time going
> > from 100 to 800 degrees in 60 ft/sec gas.
> >
> > Along these same lines I have a question; does any
> > have any info about
> > tuning alcohol fueled engines using an O2 sensor or
> > other similar sensor to
> > allow A/F ratios to be determined on a much faster
> > basis than the typical
> > EGT thermocouple sensors.
> >
> > Later Larry
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Grant Crockett" <idratherbedriving@yahoo.com>
> > To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> > Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 11:41 AM
> > Subject: Tuning with EGT
> >
> >
> > > Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with
> > exhaust
> > > gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that
> > the
> > > thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to
> > high
> > > heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
> > >
> > > If so, what are you getting for temperature
> > readings?
> > > I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> > > optimum performance, without detonation.
> > >
> > > end


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  7 14:36:06 2001
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <004501c0a74a$cd138180$5ecdfea9@jrh>
Subject: Re: reading block learn values from GM EFI systems?
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 17:36:57 -0800
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Every ECM/PCM is gonna differ somewhat.  If using OBDI, how about issuing
something like either a Mode 2 or a Mode 3 data dump command, to spit
relevant address values out the ALDL port upon request?  Or, how about
modifying your Mode 1 data stream profile to include the relevant BLM values
in place of other less useful parameters, and then stream the BLM's to your
ALDL tool?  OBDII would be different again.  If using an emulator, you may
be able to extract these values directly via the editor interface?  Kind of
depends upon exactly what you are working with.



> Does anyone know of a way to read/view all of the individual block
> learn/fuel trim values for each cell/block that are stored in the ECM/PCM
> (when retaining block learn values is enabled)? Could this be obtained
> through the diagnostic port or copied off of some internal chip?
>
>
> Jason


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  7 14:50:33 2001
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From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <007d01c0a709$910f09c0$5ecdfea9@jrh> <000d01c0a76c$7096a000$71309d18@pr1.on.wave.home.com>
Subject: Re: spark timing measurement and recording
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 17:52:53 -0500
Organization: Lingenfelter Performance Engineering
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> Who's WBEGO gives you spark along with A/F?......

The ECM (Engine Control and Monitoring, http://www.ecmco.com ) model 2400
gives AFR, spark timing, rpm and MAP. It can record the data or output it to
a PC. It is a great unit but costs $8000. To record rpm you just clip a
pickup to any spark plug wire. To get timing you need to mount a sensor to
the engine to pickup up TDC.


Jason

>
>
>
> > Has anyone used any equipment to actually measure and record ignition
> timing
> > at the engine. Accurate Technologies sells a unit to do this but it
costs
> > several thousand dollars. One of the ECM wide band meters also offers
this
> > information but it too costs several thousand dollars. I would think
with
> a
> > crank position sensor and a pickup on a spark plug wire that this would
> not
> > be that difficult to record. Any ideas on how to build such a device?
> Anyone
> > else already make something like this but at lower cost? It would be
nice
> to
> > record ignition timing along with rpm and the other normally recorded
> > variables in our data acquisition systems.
> >
>
>
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From: "Chris Remshaw" <chris.remshaw@oneco.net>
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Subject: Newbie...
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 18:00:03 -0600
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Hi all,
  I have read this digest off and on for the past two years, and I have =
only begun to understand any of it.  I am a computer programmer, but a =
more internet-based one, and I would love to get more into programming =
ECU's.  Where is a good place to start (on the web, off the web, etc.)?  =
I'm knowledgable on the basics of cars and have done modifications to my =
own.  I have a '91 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS. =20

Thanks,
Chris Remshaw

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi all,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>&nbsp; I have read this digest off and =
on for the=20
past two years, and I have only begun to understand any of it.&nbsp; I =
am a=20
computer programmer, but a more internet-based one, and I would love to =
get more=20
into programming ECU's.&nbsp; Where is a good place to start (on the =
web, off=20
the web, etc.)?&nbsp; I'm knowledgable on the basics of cars and have =
done=20
modifications to my own.&nbsp; I have a '91 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS.&nbsp; =

</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
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Hi ! Great discusion!
Why are all people tuning 2 strokes using just EGT ?
Is it because they dont know any better?
1250 is the limit for Mercury 2.5 EFIs
How is it possible to know if you need more advance or more fuel?
I have read that exhaust temp and NOX is increasing when detonations are present.
thanks
Espen
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  7 19:15:14 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: CNP coils
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 19:15:35 -0800
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what book are you talking about?  what does it cross reference (from what to
what)?  does it have a part number on the cover that I can have him order?

BW

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Bruce Plecan
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 1:19 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: CNP coils



If a store carries AC Spark Plugs they have access to ordering the book.
Matter of fact they can order a book for you.     Mine is getting seriously
old now, but as I recall was $5.    Sounds like you give up way too easy,
also, pays to make friends.
Bruce



From: "James Ballenger" <vtjballeng@yifan.net>
> Thank you for pointing out the obvious... In the message below I said that
> that was not a good option for me and I was looking for something else..
> The local autostores are willing to help, but don't carry the pigtails and
> dont have a cross ref to Gm part #.  The local AC Delco suppliers, namely
GM
> dealerships, are less than enthusiatic about looking up parts and I have
to
> do some traveling to get to one.  That gmpartsdirect site is great, too
bad
> I couldn't get a harness based on the part I was looking up.
>
> James Ballenger
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> >Behalf Of Bruce Plecan
> >Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 11:24 AM
> >To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> >Subject: Re: CNP coils
> >
> >
> >
> >Any AC/Delco supplier should be able to get a hold of a
> >Pigtail / Connector
> >Catalog.   Has pics, and connectors cross referenced.
> >Bruce
> >
> >
> >
> >From: "James Ballenger" <vtjballeng@yifan.net>
> >
> >> Also, I have quite a few GM part #'s for sensors and I am
> >looking for the
> >> harness side for hooking up.  Anyone have any ideas where I
> >might find
> >some
> >> harness information?  The local auto stores don't have it or
> >won't help me
> >> out on this one.
> >> James Ballenger
> >
> >
> >---------------------------------------------------------------
> >-------------
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> >
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  7 19:16:43 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: CNP coils
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 19:17:02 -0800
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thank you amigo, this is a great help.

Bob Wooten


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Ira Emus
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 12:15 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: CNP coils


At 02:42 AM 3/7/01 -0500, you wrote:
> >Bob, sorry I don't have the info about the pin identification.
> > Hopefully, someone can assist.

My 2000 Camaro shop manual shows the coil connections are:

A - Ground
B - Reference low  (seems to be ground in the PCM, probably ground return
for the "Control signal")
C - Control signal
D - 12V with ignition on.

The manual indicates that the coil is fired by grounding pin C.

I hope that helps.

Ira

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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: CNP coils
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 19:19:46 -0800
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My dealer is pretty helpful, just making time to go see them is the hard
part.  when I have more concrete part numbers I will share them.

thanks for the comment on the site.  I added some time slips into the spec
sheet section, nothing fabulous, just is what it is.

BW

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of James Ballenger
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 11:42 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: CNP coils


	Great website.  Any idea why the subarban coils are referenced as a coil
kit?  I wonder why they would be more expensive than the camaro version?

	Also, I have quite a few GM part #'s for sensors and I am looking for the
harness side for hooking up.  Anyone have any ideas where I might find some
harness information?  The local auto stores don't have it or won't help me
out on this one.

Thanks,
James Ballenger

>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
>Behalf Of Jurgen Hartwig
>Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 12:20 PM
>To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>Subject: Re: CNP coils
>
>
>> this one came off of a 99 Camaro.  there was also a 98 TA (the tag on
>the
>> car reads "600hp TA", believe it, I saw the dyno sheet, blower &
>squeeze)
>> there that had the exact same setup.  the part number on the
>coils (all
>16)
>> was 12558948 (top line, p/n?), 09T29-0200 (bottom line, Date code?)
>>
>
>
>Bob, sorry I don't have the info about the pin identification.
> Hopefully,
>someone can assist.
>
>However, I did do some rudimentary searching for the coils.
>The cheapest
>factory coils were $28.17 for the coils you have now,
>12558948, and $37.53
>for the 2000 Suburban coils, 5.3L.  These prices were quoted from
>www.gmpartsdirect.com.  They were quite a bit cheaper than all
>the other
>vendors.
>
>Now, as you already know, the coil-on-plug setup on the V8s is not
>physically coil on each plug.  There is a spark plug wire.  Apparently,
>the reason for this setup is to keep the exhaust manifolds
>from damaging
>the coils.  However, there are some COP (coil-on-plug) setups which
>physically sit atop the spark plug and are bolted to a bracket for
>support.  From what I have seen, some Toyotas and Isuzus may
>utilize this
>coil.  This would likely be preferably to the GM coils for those not
>driving V8.
>
>GM also installs the COP on their Lincoln line, including LS
>and the SUV,
>I believe.  I wonder if GM installs COP on every V8, or only a handful.
>
>When I am in town sometime, I will make a point to stop at
>some junkyards
>and probe around.
>
>Jay
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------
>-------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  7 19:25:23 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Tuning with GET
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 19:25:51 -0800
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what are you running that is making 1600 hp?  is there a web site that shows
this beast?(off list if you don't want to continue the subject on list).

thanks,
BW

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 9:09 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT


I use 8 EGTs to aid in tuning a 1600 HP Turbo setup. We see temps from 1700
F to
1900 F.  Lets say we do not like to see anything over 1900 but we have seen
it.

Typical range I would say for blown applications is 1600 - 1800 F.

As far as tuning, its aids in individual cylinder tuning, but there is no
absolute
value that you can tune for.  Its more or less used as a reference from the
last
pass.  Its also great to see if you have a problem with any one cylinder.
We use
116 octane.  Combined with wide band 02 provides a great basis to tune from.

steve

-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Heath [mailto:lgheath@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 3:24 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT


Most guys that drag race use EGT to tune. Most of us look for a max of about
1200 to 1250 degrees F as the car crosses the finish line, i.e. max load max
rpm. This is of course using fuels with very high octane ratings, generally
no less than 105 octane and as much as 118, that are generally not prone to
detonation even under extreme conditions. I lot of guys use the EGT's in
tuning alcohol fueled engines, as the typical signs use to tune gas fired
engines are generally not present, the alcohol fuel being very clean burning
and has such a wide range of flammability. Most guys seem to use the same
basic temp range as a max, although I have seen references to EGT's much
lower than the 1200 to 1250 range as being ideal for max power.

Thermocouples (K type) are generally fairly slow as far as response time
goes, at least for the typical thermocouples used in this application. The
faster the response rate of the couple the shorter the average life of the
unit is.  I have seen bare wire thermocouples with standard response times
of as little as .004 sec, but these would not last any significant amount of
time, in an exhaust gas environment. About the minimum wire size that would
be usable as a EGT is .015" and this has about a .8 sec response time going
from 100 to 800 degrees in 60 ft/sec gas.

Along these same lines I have a question; does any have any info about
tuning alcohol fueled engines using an O2 sensor or other similar sensor to
allow A/F ratios to be determined on a much faster basis than the typical
EGT thermocouple sensors.

Later Larry

----- Original Message -----
From: "Grant Crockett" <idratherbedriving@yahoo.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 11:41 AM
Subject: Tuning with EGT


> Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
>
> If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> optimum performance, without detonation.
>
> end
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  7 19:34:50 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <gmecm@diy-efi.org>, <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Igniter & coil Theory of Op
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 19:35:18 -0800
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Evening all,

earlier today I loaded into incoming a doc called "Igniter & Coil theory" as
I am working on my little project I realize that the more I know the less I
know & have to learn how to walk before I run.  that being said, I finished
the drawing today & would like a sanity check.  if you don't mind check it
out & let me know if I have told any cardinal lies, or if they are mostly
venial ones.

thanks,

Bob Wooten
r71chevy@earthlink.net
www.r71camaro.homestead.com

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  7 20:15:08 2001
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 Wed,  7 Mar 2001 20:13:59 -0800 (PST)
Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 20:13:58 -0800
From: Carl Summers <InTech@writeme.com>
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT
In-reply-to: <6D07A7DEF8E8D21182700080D8701070047F0FD2@cccntxch51.ceco.com>
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I have a couple of the RTD's here and have used them at my old job.... very
nice devices and seem much faster than K type.  I wish I would have kept the
transfer function,,,,oh well, have to call Hereaus(sic?)
-Carl Summers

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of don.broadus@exeloncorp.com
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 10:35 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT


Has anybody tried the new RTD type EGT that are on the newer cars they are
supposed to be much faster than thermocouples

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Jason R. Haines [SMTP:jhaines@lingenfelter.com]
> Sent:	Monday, March 05, 2001 11:37 AM
> To:	diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject:	Re: Tuning with EGT
>
> We used to use EGTs for tuning but have switched to individual AFRs. We
> have
> found the AFR to react much faster than the EGT. If you look at the time
> constansts for most thermocouples, the amount of time required to get to
> 90%
> of the actual reading is often measured in seconds while the UEGO sensors
> are measured in milliseconds. Also, you can be rich or lean and cause
> similar EGT's to occur depending on where the combustion is taking place
> (in
> the chamber or in the exhaust).
>
> Just my $0.02
>
> Jason
>
> > Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> > gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> > thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> > heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
> >
> > If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> > I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> > optimum performance, without detonation.
> >
> > end
> >
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
> majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  7 20:21:40 2001
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Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 20:10:02 -0800
From: Carl Summers <InTech@writeme.com>
Subject: RE: Tuning with GET
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Hi list,   been real busy so I haven't followed this thread.  I have tuned
quite a few twin turbo setups and EGT is pretty unreliable and extremely
slow.  One TT 540 I did was 1639hp at 6000 rpm.  Timing has a dramatic
affect on EGT.  This engine stabilized around 1430F EGT but when timing was
too low...EGT's were all over the place.  Individual cylinder tuning had
some effect but was not the cure all for the EGT variances.  Individual
cylinder ignition timing would be really good for us but we don't have the
control to do coil on plug yet.  I just finished a TT 572BBC that was 1145hp
at 6000 on 92 octane.  Took quite a bit of work but EGT's are stable in the
high 1300's and loaded it on the dyno till we started overheating the dyno
tanks(about 10 minutes) without a trickle of knock.  Most applications I
work on are more of a severe environment than drag racing as this is a
marine environment.  Climbing EGT's will cause ultimate exhaust valve
failure even with inconel valves.  We have done quite a bit of cam timing
changes to help reduce EGT and still maintain a decent spool up time.  What
cu in and environment is the 1600hp you are doing??? ttyl
-Carl Summers

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Bob Wooten
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 7:26 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Tuning with GET


what are you running that is making 1600 hp?  is there a web site that shows
this beast?(off list if you don't want to continue the subject on list).

thanks,
BW

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 9:09 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT


I use 8 EGTs to aid in tuning a 1600 HP Turbo setup. We see temps from 1700
F to
1900 F.  Lets say we do not like to see anything over 1900 but we have seen
it.

Typical range I would say for blown applications is 1600 - 1800 F.

As far as tuning, its aids in individual cylinder tuning, but there is no
absolute
value that you can tune for.  Its more or less used as a reference from the
last
pass.  Its also great to see if you have a problem with any one cylinder.
We use
116 octane.  Combined with wide band 02 provides a great basis to tune from.

steve

-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Heath [mailto:lgheath@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 3:24 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT


Most guys that drag race use EGT to tune. Most of us look for a max of about
1200 to 1250 degrees F as the car crosses the finish line, i.e. max load max
rpm. This is of course using fuels with very high octane ratings, generally
no less than 105 octane and as much as 118, that are generally not prone to
detonation even under extreme conditions. I lot of guys use the EGT's in
tuning alcohol fueled engines, as the typical signs use to tune gas fired
engines are generally not present, the alcohol fuel being very clean burning
and has such a wide range of flammability. Most guys seem to use the same
basic temp range as a max, although I have seen references to EGT's much
lower than the 1200 to 1250 range as being ideal for max power.

Thermocouples (K type) are generally fairly slow as far as response time
goes, at least for the typical thermocouples used in this application. The
faster the response rate of the couple the shorter the average life of the
unit is.  I have seen bare wire thermocouples with standard response times
of as little as .004 sec, but these would not last any significant amount of
time, in an exhaust gas environment. About the minimum wire size that would
be usable as a EGT is .015" and this has about a .8 sec response time going
from 100 to 800 degrees in 60 ft/sec gas.

Along these same lines I have a question; does any have any info about
tuning alcohol fueled engines using an O2 sensor or other similar sensor to
allow A/F ratios to be determined on a much faster basis than the typical
EGT thermocouple sensors.

Later Larry

----- Original Message -----
From: "Grant Crockett" <idratherbedriving@yahoo.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 11:41 AM
Subject: Tuning with EGT


> Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
>
> If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> optimum performance, without detonation.
>
> end
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Mar  7 20:37:46 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Tuning with GET
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 20:38:07 -0800
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WOW, those kind of numbers are just amazing to me.  My partner & I are
considering doing a Turbo (Twin?) BBC for drag racing but, I think that this
is a little overzealous @ this point.  I think that the first step is a EFI
BBC, then maybe a Single turbo & then we will talk about BIG HP.  what we
are shooting for is about 1000 hp Turbo, efi, that we can squeeze.  one step
@ a time.  got to get the 383 running right, then we will go from there.

thanks for the info.  where do you work if you don't mind me asking?
BW

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Carl Summers
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 8:10 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Tuning with GET


Hi list,   been real busy so I haven't followed this thread.  I have tuned
quite a few twin turbo setups and EGT is pretty unreliable and extremely
slow.  One TT 540 I did was 1639hp at 6000 rpm.  Timing has a dramatic
affect on EGT.  This engine stabilized around 1430F EGT but when timing was
too low...EGT's were all over the place.  Individual cylinder tuning had
some effect but was not the cure all for the EGT variances.  Individual
cylinder ignition timing would be really good for us but we don't have the
control to do coil on plug yet.  I just finished a TT 572BBC that was 1145hp
at 6000 on 92 octane.  Took quite a bit of work but EGT's are stable in the
high 1300's and loaded it on the dyno till we started overheating the dyno
tanks(about 10 minutes) without a trickle of knock.  Most applications I
work on are more of a severe environment than drag racing as this is a
marine environment.  Climbing EGT's will cause ultimate exhaust valve
failure even with inconel valves.  We have done quite a bit of cam timing
changes to help reduce EGT and still maintain a decent spool up time.  What
cu in and environment is the 1600hp you are doing??? ttyl
-Carl Summers

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Bob Wooten
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 7:26 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Tuning with GET


what are you running that is making 1600 hp?  is there a web site that shows
this beast?(off list if you don't want to continue the subject on list).

thanks,
BW

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 9:09 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT


I use 8 EGTs to aid in tuning a 1600 HP Turbo setup. We see temps from 1700
F to
1900 F.  Lets say we do not like to see anything over 1900 but we have seen
it.

Typical range I would say for blown applications is 1600 - 1800 F.

As far as tuning, its aids in individual cylinder tuning, but there is no
absolute
value that you can tune for.  Its more or less used as a reference from the
last
pass.  Its also great to see if you have a problem with any one cylinder.
We use
116 octane.  Combined with wide band 02 provides a great basis to tune from.

steve

-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Heath [mailto:lgheath@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 3:24 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT


Most guys that drag race use EGT to tune. Most of us look for a max of about
1200 to 1250 degrees F as the car crosses the finish line, i.e. max load max
rpm. This is of course using fuels with very high octane ratings, generally
no less than 105 octane and as much as 118, that are generally not prone to
detonation even under extreme conditions. I lot of guys use the EGT's in
tuning alcohol fueled engines, as the typical signs use to tune gas fired
engines are generally not present, the alcohol fuel being very clean burning
and has such a wide range of flammability. Most guys seem to use the same
basic temp range as a max, although I have seen references to EGT's much
lower than the 1200 to 1250 range as being ideal for max power.

Thermocouples (K type) are generally fairly slow as far as response time
goes, at least for the typical thermocouples used in this application. The
faster the response rate of the couple the shorter the average life of the
unit is.  I have seen bare wire thermocouples with standard response times
of as little as .004 sec, but these would not last any significant amount of
time, in an exhaust gas environment. About the minimum wire size that would
be usable as a EGT is .015" and this has about a .8 sec response time going
from 100 to 800 degrees in 60 ft/sec gas.

Along these same lines I have a question; does any have any info about
tuning alcohol fueled engines using an O2 sensor or other similar sensor to
allow A/F ratios to be determined on a much faster basis than the typical
EGT thermocouple sensors.

Later Larry

----- Original Message -----
From: "Grant Crockett" <idratherbedriving@yahoo.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 11:41 AM
Subject: Tuning with EGT


> Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
>
> If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> optimum performance, without detonation.
>
> end
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 01:50:32 2001
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From: "Warwick Anderson" <racingfit@goconnect.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <01B1E1AA.4EBE5360.mwichstr@online.no>
Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 14:59:30 +1100
Organization: Racingfit PT& EPIC! Racing
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>From racing  go Karts, people use EGT, basicly to get the motor tune back to
where you think it is making most power. with the 2 stroke KT100S motors you
need to tune them each time you go out via a low speed and high speed needle
on the carb.
I have used it (egt) but didnt find it that much help. thing is when you
replace the sensor in the pipe you get a whole bunch of different readings
so you need to start again logging what was good tunes ect.
----- Original Message -----
From: "espen hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 1988 8:43 PM
Subject: SV: Tuning with EGT


>
> Hi ! Great discusion!
> Why are all people tuning 2 strokes using just EGT ?
> Is it because they dont know any better?
> 1250 is the limit for Mercury 2.5 EFIs
> How is it possible to know if you need more advance or more fuel?
> I have read that exhaust temp and NOX is increasing when detonations are
present.
> thanks
> Espen
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 02:59:28 2001
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Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 02:47:37 -0800
From: Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
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Subject: Winter gas vs summer gas
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Has anyone here experienced problems with "winter" gas?  Especially the
oxygenated, reformulated, winter gas sold in California in (I think)
November, December, and January?

The previous two winters, the winter gas caused two of my vehicles to
occasionally ping under mild throttle conditions.  Each year, by the
time the weather warmed up enough (February) to consider diagnosing the
pinging, the problem went away.  One vehicle is PFI and the other has a
computer-carb.  A neighbor reported similar problems with a TBI engine.

This winter, I didn't have the pinging.  Instead, the carb vehicle liked
to stall when the engine was cool.  The engine acted/sounded like it
went totally pig rich, the rpms dropped, it started rich misfiring, and
eventually stalled.  I replaced a few "iffy" parts, but couldn't fully
solve the problem.  I've been driving around for several weeks with a
DVM hooked to the O2 sensor.  The DVM showed that the cool engine wasn't
nearly as rich as it sometimes got when fully warmed up.

A few days ago, I filled up with gas for the first time since January. 
(30 gallon gas tank...)  Problem solved.  Hrmph!

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 06:25:19 2001
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From: "Eric Aos" <eoa@spartek.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Winter gas vs summer gas
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I have to re-jet my pickup every time they change gas here in Oregon. This
year wasn't as bad as the last ones though.
Eric

>
> Has anyone here experienced problems with "winter" gas?
> Especially the
> oxygenated, reformulated, winter gas sold in California in (I think)
> November, December, and January?
>
> The previous two winters, the winter gas caused two of my vehicles to
> occasionally ping under mild throttle conditions.  Each year, by the
> time the weather warmed up enough (February) to consider
> diagnosing the
> pinging, the problem went away.  One vehicle is PFI and the
> other has a
> computer-carb.  A neighbor reported similar problems with a
> TBI engine.
>
> This winter, I didn't have the pinging.  Instead, the carb
> vehicle liked
> to stall when the engine was cool.  The engine acted/sounded like it
> went totally pig rich, the rpms dropped, it started rich
> misfiring, and
> eventually stalled.  I replaced a few "iffy" parts, but couldn't fully
> solve the problem.  I've been driving around for several weeks with a
> DVM hooked to the O2 sensor.  The DVM showed that the cool
> engine wasn't
> nearly as rich as it sometimes got when fully warmed up.
>
> A few days ago, I filled up with gas for the first time since
> January.
> (30 gallon gas tank...)  Problem solved.  Hrmph!
>
> --
> Ludis Langens                               ludis (at)
> cruzers (dot) com
> Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:
http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 06:25:10 2001
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To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Tuning with GET
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 09:16:35 -0500 
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Carl to answer your question.

The 1600 hp is on a Ford 302 Stroker (now 347), single turbo (Thumper
100mm),
Pro 5.0 mustang drag car.  The Turbo can make around 1800HP, we will see
this
season.  We used to run two T-72 Twins, but the rules made us change, saw
very
similar HP.  Spool up time has been an issue, but seemed to figure that out 
last season.  This year with a Stick - spool should not be an issue.

We had a web site, but for some reason it is down.  Need to contact to the 
admin who did it.


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Wooten [mailto:r71chevy@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 11:38 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Tuning with GET


WOW, those kind of numbers are just amazing to me.  My partner & I are
considering doing a Turbo (Twin?) BBC for drag racing but, I think that this
is a little overzealous @ this point.  I think that the first step is a EFI
BBC, then maybe a Single turbo & then we will talk about BIG HP.  what we
are shooting for is about 1000 hp Turbo, efi, that we can squeeze.  one step
@ a time.  got to get the 383 running right, then we will go from there.

thanks for the info.  where do you work if you don't mind me asking?
BW

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Carl Summers
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 8:10 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Tuning with GET


Hi list,   been real busy so I haven't followed this thread.  I have tuned
quite a few twin turbo setups and EGT is pretty unreliable and extremely
slow.  One TT 540 I did was 1639hp at 6000 rpm.  Timing has a dramatic
affect on EGT.  This engine stabilized around 1430F EGT but when timing was
too low...EGT's were all over the place.  Individual cylinder tuning had
some effect but was not the cure all for the EGT variances.  Individual
cylinder ignition timing would be really good for us but we don't have the
control to do coil on plug yet.  I just finished a TT 572BBC that was 1145hp
at 6000 on 92 octane.  Took quite a bit of work but EGT's are stable in the
high 1300's and loaded it on the dyno till we started overheating the dyno
tanks(about 10 minutes) without a trickle of knock.  Most applications I
work on are more of a severe environment than drag racing as this is a
marine environment.  Climbing EGT's will cause ultimate exhaust valve
failure even with inconel valves.  We have done quite a bit of cam timing
changes to help reduce EGT and still maintain a decent spool up time.  What
cu in and environment is the 1600hp you are doing??? ttyl
-Carl Summers

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Bob Wooten
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 7:26 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Tuning with GET


what are you running that is making 1600 hp?  is there a web site that shows
this beast?(off list if you don't want to continue the subject on list).

thanks,
BW

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 9:09 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT


I use 8 EGTs to aid in tuning a 1600 HP Turbo setup. We see temps from 1700
F to
1900 F.  Lets say we do not like to see anything over 1900 but we have seen
it.

Typical range I would say for blown applications is 1600 - 1800 F.

As far as tuning, its aids in individual cylinder tuning, but there is no
absolute
value that you can tune for.  Its more or less used as a reference from the
last
pass.  Its also great to see if you have a problem with any one cylinder.
We use
116 octane.  Combined with wide band 02 provides a great basis to tune from.

steve

-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Heath [mailto:lgheath@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 3:24 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT


Most guys that drag race use EGT to tune. Most of us look for a max of about
1200 to 1250 degrees F as the car crosses the finish line, i.e. max load max
rpm. This is of course using fuels with very high octane ratings, generally
no less than 105 octane and as much as 118, that are generally not prone to
detonation even under extreme conditions. I lot of guys use the EGT's in
tuning alcohol fueled engines, as the typical signs use to tune gas fired
engines are generally not present, the alcohol fuel being very clean burning
and has such a wide range of flammability. Most guys seem to use the same
basic temp range as a max, although I have seen references to EGT's much
lower than the 1200 to 1250 range as being ideal for max power.

Thermocouples (K type) are generally fairly slow as far as response time
goes, at least for the typical thermocouples used in this application. The
faster the response rate of the couple the shorter the average life of the
unit is.  I have seen bare wire thermocouples with standard response times
of as little as .004 sec, but these would not last any significant amount of
time, in an exhaust gas environment. About the minimum wire size that would
be usable as a EGT is .015" and this has about a .8 sec response time going
from 100 to 800 degrees in 60 ft/sec gas.

Along these same lines I have a question; does any have any info about
tuning alcohol fueled engines using an O2 sensor or other similar sensor to
allow A/F ratios to be determined on a much faster basis than the typical
EGT thermocouple sensors.

Later Larry

----- Original Message -----
From: "Grant Crockett" <idratherbedriving@yahoo.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 11:41 AM
Subject: Tuning with EGT


> Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
>
> If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> optimum performance, without detonation.
>
> end
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 06:42:44 2001
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To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: spark timing measurement and recording
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 09:34:10 -0500 
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If you are going to spend that much, why not just buy an Accel DFI, or Speed
Pro,
or Motec, Haltronic, etc system that lets your read 02 and control
individual spark and fuel.
You can be in most of these systems for under 4K.  But then again, this site
is about DIY.  

-----Original Message-----
From: Jason R. Haines [mailto:jhaines@lingenfelter.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 5:53 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: spark timing measurement and recording


> Who's WBEGO gives you spark along with A/F?......

The ECM (Engine Control and Monitoring, http://www.ecmco.com ) model 2400
gives AFR, spark timing, rpm and MAP. It can record the data or output it to
a PC. It is a great unit but costs $8000. To record rpm you just clip a
pickup to any spark plug wire. To get timing you need to mount a sensor to
the engine to pickup up TDC.


Jason

>
>
>
> > Has anyone used any equipment to actually measure and record ignition
> timing
> > at the engine. Accurate Technologies sells a unit to do this but it
costs
> > several thousand dollars. One of the ECM wide band meters also offers
this
> > information but it too costs several thousand dollars. I would think
with
> a
> > crank position sensor and a pickup on a spark plug wire that this would
> not
> > be that difficult to record. Any ideas on how to build such a device?
> Anyone
> > else already make something like this but at lower cost? It would be
nice
> to
> > record ignition timing along with rpm and the other normally recorded
> > variables in our data acquisition systems.
> >
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 07:12:57 2001
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References: <19D424DA3941D41189DE0008C7EB79DB52E3CD@hqbedex3.corp.bam.com>
Subject: Re: spark timing measurement and recording
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 10:16:55 -0500
Organization: Lingenfelter Performance Engineering
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I want to be able to record spark timing on any engine that we test on the
engine dynamometer or on the chassis dynamometer (maybe even in vehicle so
on the road or on the water). Most will be EFI applications (many different
ECMs) and some will be carb's.

Also, the aftermarket ECM's can't be used for emissions certified
applications.

Jason


> If you are going to spend that much, why not just buy an Accel DFI, or
Speed
> Pro,
> or Motec, Haltronic, etc system that lets your read 02 and control
> individual spark and fuel.
> You can be in most of these systems for under 4K.  But then again, this
site
> is about DIY.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jason R. Haines [mailto:jhaines@lingenfelter.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 5:53 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: spark timing measurement and recording
>
>
> > Who's WBEGO gives you spark along with A/F?......
>
> The ECM (Engine Control and Monitoring, http://www.ecmco.com ) model 2400
> gives AFR, spark timing, rpm and MAP. It can record the data or output it
to
> a PC. It is a great unit but costs $8000. To record rpm you just clip a
> pickup to any spark plug wire. To get timing you need to mount a sensor to
> the engine to pickup up TDC.
>
>
> Jason
>
> >
> >
> >
> > > Has anyone used any equipment to actually measure and record ignition
> > timing
> > > at the engine. Accurate Technologies sells a unit to do this but it
> costs
> > > several thousand dollars. One of the ECM wide band meters also offers
> this
> > > information but it too costs several thousand dollars. I would think
> with
> > a
> > > crank position sensor and a pickup on a spark plug wire that this
would
> > not
> > > be that difficult to record. Any ideas on how to build such a device?
> > Anyone
> > > else already make something like this but at lower cost? It would be
> nice
> > to
> > > record ignition timing along with rpm and the other normally recorded
> > > variables in our data acquisition systems.
> > >
> >
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
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> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 07:22:09 2001
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Subject: Re: Fuel Pressure Sensor
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 10:26:03 -0500
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I think some marine applications (MEFI3 EFI engines) may use an optional
fuel pressure sensor but I haven't figured out what applications yet.

BTW - the new Duramax Isuza/GM diesel has a fuel pressure sensor that read
to something like 35,000 psi but is probably not very accurate at 43 psi
8-).



Jason


> Where could I find a fuel pressure sensor cheap?  Are there any OEM
> sources I could get out of a junkyard?  Thanks,
>
>
> James Scott Flanagan
> Mechanical Engineering Undergraduate
> Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta Georgia, 30332
> Email: gte861v@prism.gatech.edu
>
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 07:25:39 2001
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Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 10:24:47 -0500
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: Ron Schroeder <rjs@bnl.gov>
Subject: RE: Winter gas vs summer gas and Intro
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At 06:25 AM 3/8/01 -0800, you wrote:
>I have to re-jet my pickup every time they change gas here in Oregon. This
>year wasn't as bad as the last ones though.
>Eric
>
>>
>> Has anyone here experienced problems with "winter" gas?
>> Especially the
>> oxygenated, reformulated, winter gas sold in California in (I think)
>> November, December, and January?


Hi,

I am Ron Schroeder.  Electronics nut for a real job, Car nut for hobby.  I
have a 1973 Pinzgauer, a military vehicle from the Swiss Army, made in
Austria.  It's engine is a 2.5L 4 cyl inline air cooled engine with 2 Solex
36 NDIX racing carbs and headers.  I am getting tired of syncronizing the
carbs and cold start problems so I would like to fuel inject it.  I am
thinking of a single GM TBI for a start.  Since this engine is so different
from any factory GM aplication, I don't know what to do about the fuel
mapping and how to simulate the coolant temp sensor (no coolant in an air
cooled engine).  I would like to reduce the emissions and improve the
smoothness more than increase power.  Better fuel economy wouldn't hurt
either.  It puts out 90HP at 4000 rpm and about 125lb/ft of torque at 2000
rpm.  It needs the low rpm torque peak due to the wide ratio transmission.

Eric, did you re-jet leaner or richer?

When I worked at a Ford dealership I found a very common complaint was poor
running with the oxygenated winter fuel mostly with the MBTE formula rather
than the ethanol or methanol addative formula.

Ron Schroeder
WD8CDH
E. E. S.
wd8cdh@bnl.gov
rjs@bnl.gov
ron@112motors.com
631 344-4561 Day
631 286-5677 Nite
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 10:09:36 2001
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From: "Ade + Lamb Chop" <adrian.law@btinternet.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 18:09:24 -0000
Subject: OT: wiring diagram for Honda 1600 DOHC "ZC" engine
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Hi All,

I have a DOHC non-vtec honda engine from a CRX (89) and an ECU 
from an 88 honda integra ex16 (same engine). Both cars are UK 
spec. 

I am after a efi wiring diagrams so that I can get the engine to run. I 
have a haynes manual that covers the US SOHC CRXs will that be 
the same system? 

Thanx,

Ade


ICQ. 75653589
www.adesite.co.uk
ade.honda-mini.co.uk
www.mini-list.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 10:12:31 2001
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References: <22.12dd5331.27d7f91d@aol.com>
Subject: Fluke model 98 [was Re: spark timing measurement and recording]
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 13:16:11 -0500
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Thanks for the information. I called Fluke and they confirmed that the model
98 can perform spark advance and rpm measurement and recording (to a PC).
One problem - they don't make the Fluke model 98 anymore and it does not
currently have a replacement either. I was told that they got caught off
guard by a chip manufacturer's decision to stop making one of the critical
chips used in the model 98. They bought a one-time buy of chips to service
future model 98 repairs but had to stop making the model 98. Any other scope
meters from other companies that offer this feature?

Thanks,


Jason

----- Original Message -----
From: <Moofaloof@aol.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 3:50 PM
Subject: Re: spark timing measurement and recording


> Yes, exactly.  I use a Fluke 97 scopemeter and pick off the crank trigger
signal and the signal to the coil on DIS cars or use an inductive pickup on
the plug wire.
> jc
>
>
>
>
> In a message dated Wed, 7 Mar 2001 11:37:10 AM Eastern Standard Time, Ira
Emus <ira@CamaroElectronics.com> writes:
>
> << At 08:21 AM 3/7/01 -0500, you wrote:
> >Has anyone used any equipment to actually measure and record ignition
timing
> >at the engine.
>
> I have a Fluke Model 98 scopemeter that will do this if there is a TDC
> crank pickup. Can't imagine it would be that hard to rig up a pickup if
you
> had the meter or something similar.
>
> Ira
>
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>  >>
>
>
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Chris, it seems like there's a ton of information for GM cars, somewhat
less for Fords, and basically none for anything else.  So it might be
hard to find out about your Eclipse.  But, you can look around at the
gmecm page and learn a lot about GM EFI strategy.  Another great place
is the archives of both diy-efi and gmecm.  Both archives can be
downloaded from their respective WWW pages, and searched with a text
editor or word processor.  I wouldn't try reading from end to end, but
browse around in them and read stuff that looks interesting.  There
isn't a good place to start, that I know of at least, other than read a
lot and ask questions.  Good luck!

--steve

> Chris Remshaw wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
>   I have read this digest off and on for the past two years, and I
> have only begun to understand any of it.  I am a computer programmer,
> but a more internet-based one, and I would love to get more into
> programming ECU's.  Where is a good place to start (on the web, off
> the web, etc.)?  I'm knowledgable on the basics of cars and have done
> modifications to my own.  I have a '91 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS.
> 
> Thanks,
> Chris Remshaw

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 10:25:28 2001
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References: <22.12dd5331.27d7f91d@aol.com> <002b01c0a7fb$def06420$5ecdfea9@jrh>
Subject: Re: Fluke model 98 [was Re: spark timing measurement and recording]
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 11:25:19 -0700
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Jason,

There should be a couple sites that you could get a good refurbished 98
from--I'll dig them up.

Lyndon
----- Original Message -----
From: Jason R. Haines <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 11:16 AM
Subject: Fluke model 98 [was Re: spark timing measurement and recording]


> Thanks for the information. I called Fluke and they confirmed that the
model
> 98 can perform spark advance and rpm measurement and recording (to a PC).
> One problem - they don't make the Fluke model 98 anymore and it does not
> currently have a replacement either. I was told that they got caught off
> guard by a chip manufacturer's decision to stop making one of the critical
> chips used in the model 98. They bought a one-time buy of chips to service
> future model 98 repairs but had to stop making the model 98. Any other
scope
> meters from other companies that offer this feature?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Jason
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Moofaloof@aol.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 3:50 PM
> Subject: Re: spark timing measurement and recording
>
>
> > Yes, exactly.  I use a Fluke 97 scopemeter and pick off the crank
trigger
> signal and the signal to the coil on DIS cars or use an inductive pickup
on
> the plug wire.
> > jc
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > In a message dated Wed, 7 Mar 2001 11:37:10 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Ira
> Emus <ira@CamaroElectronics.com> writes:
> >
> > << At 08:21 AM 3/7/01 -0500, you wrote:
> > >Has anyone used any equipment to actually measure and record ignition
> timing
> > >at the engine.
> >
> > I have a Fluke Model 98 scopemeter that will do this if there is a TDC
> > crank pickup. Can't imagine it would be that hard to rig up a pickup if
> you
> > had the meter or something similar.
> >
> > Ira
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
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> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> >  >>
> >
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> >
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 10:25:44 2001
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <MABBLIHBGGBFGJCJJMLDCEDPCAAA.r71chevy@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: CNP coils
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 13:25:24 -0500
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
> what book are you talking about?

A book showing all the AC Delco Pigtails.

  what does it cross reference (from what to
> what)?

Pics of connetor to part number, and connector by item to part no.

does it have a part number on the cover that I can have him order?

My 96 catalog is Part No.,   16A-101
Bruce


>
> BW
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of Bruce Plecan
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 1:19 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: CNP coils
>
>
>
> If a store carries AC Spark Plugs they have access to ordering the book.
> Matter of fact they can order a book for you.     Mine is getting
seriously
> old now, but as I recall was $5.    Sounds like you give up way too easy,
> also, pays to make friends.
> Bruce
>
>
>
> From: "James Ballenger" <vtjballeng@yifan.net>
> > Thank you for pointing out the obvious... In the message below I said
that
> > that was not a good option for me and I was looking for something else..
> > The local autostores are willing to help, but don't carry the pigtails
and
> > dont have a cross ref to Gm part #.  The local AC Delco suppliers,
namely
> GM
> > dealerships, are less than enthusiatic about looking up parts and I have
> to
> > do some traveling to get to one.  That gmpartsdirect site is great, too
> bad
> > I couldn't get a harness based on the part I was looking up.
> >
> > James Ballenger
> >
> > >-----Original Message-----
> > >From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> > >Behalf Of Bruce Plecan
> > >Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 11:24 AM
> > >To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > >Subject: Re: CNP coils
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Any AC/Delco supplier should be able to get a hold of a
> > >Pigtail / Connector
> > >Catalog.   Has pics, and connectors cross referenced.
> > >Bruce
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >From: "James Ballenger" <vtjballeng@yifan.net>
> > >
> > >> Also, I have quite a few GM part #'s for sensors and I am
> > >looking for the
> > >> harness side for hooking up.  Anyone have any ideas where I
> > >might find
> > >some
> > >> harness information?  The local auto stores don't have it or
> > >won't help me
> > >> out on this one.
> > >> James Ballenger
> > >
> > >
> > >---------------------------------------------------------------
> > >-------------
> > >To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi"
> > >(without the quotes)
> > >in the body of a message (not the subject) to
> > >majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> > >
> > >
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
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> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 10:43:49 2001
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From: "Huw Scourfield" <Huw.Scourfield@btinternet.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Fw: Positive edge triggered ignition module
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 18:45:50 -0000
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OK, since no-one knows of any UK based models using this, how about
World-wide? Surely there must be some, don't want to be building inverting
circuits.
    Huw
----- Original Message -----
From: Huw Scourfield <Huw.Scourfield@btinternet.com>
To: <>
Sent: 07 March 2001 18:59
Subject: Positive edge triggered ignition module


> Anyone know what vehicle might use a +ve edge triggered constant energy
> module?, needs to be sold in UK really for availability etc. Thinking of
> buying one of Perfect Powers cheaper ignition controllers.
>     Thanks,
>         Huw
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 10:59:35 2001
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From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
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1)  Bob Valentine has written a tuning document for the 1227730 ECM. 
It's on the gmecm page, under ECM info then 1227730.

2)  Chet Wagner sent me some pdf files of an article he found on the
internet about an ECM testbench.  It includes a pattern for making a PCB
board, but the description is a little thin.  It was originally from the
A Tech Traning page (www.atechtraining.com).  It's also on the gmecm
page, under projects then ECM testbench.

--steve

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 11:13:22 2001
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Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 14:13:09 -0500
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: Brian Renegar <thomas.renegar@nist.gov>
Subject: Re: Fluke model 98 [was Re: spark timing measurement and
  recording]
In-Reply-To: <000d01c0a7fd$290f31c0$a4d1fea9@oemcomputer>
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 <002b01c0a7fb$def06420$5ecdfea9@jrh>
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There's one on ebay here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=567361311

Brian

>There should be a couple sites that you could get a good refurbished 98
>from--I'll dig them up.
>
>Lyndon

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 11:41:37 2001
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From: "David Gregory" <dcg1174@tntech.edu>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: wiring diagram for Honda 1600 DOHC "ZC" engine
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 13:51:20 -0600
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what you need is a Helms Manual( www.helminc.com )

Also you should check out www.hybrid.honda-perf.org and
www.crx.honda-perf.org.  Those guys can help you for sure.

But if i were you i'd get the Helms, no matter what (they are the same as
the "official" honda shop manual)
HTH,
David

P.S. if you have more questions, you can email me off list,
dcg1174@tntech.edu, as this is decidedly off topic

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Ade + Lamb Chop
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 12:09 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: OT: wiring diagram for Honda 1600 DOHC "ZC" engine


Hi All,

I have a DOHC non-vtec honda engine from a CRX (89) and an ECU
from an 88 honda integra ex16 (same engine). Both cars are UK
spec.

I am after a efi wiring diagrams so that I can get the engine to run. I
have a haynes manual that covers the US SOHC CRXs will that be
the same system?

Thanx,

Ade


ICQ. 75653589
www.adesite.co.uk
ade.honda-mini.co.uk
www.mini-list.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 12:08:33 2001
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Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 12:07:49 -0800
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: Ira Emus <ira@CamaroElectronics.com>
Subject: Re: Fluke model 98 [was Re: spark timing measurement and
  recording]
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At 01:16 PM 3/8/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Thanks for the information. I called Fluke and they confirmed that the model
>98 can perform spark advance and rpm measurement and recording (to a PC).
>One problem - they don't make the Fluke model 98 anymore and it does not
>currently have a replacement either. I was told that they got caught off
>guard by a chip manufacturer's decision to stop making one of the critical
>chips used in the model 98. They bought a one-time buy of chips to service
>future model 98 repairs but had to stop making the model 98. Any other scope

You can find 98's on Ebay for around $1700.

Ira

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 12:20:18 2001
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From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
To: "GMECM" <gmecm@diy-efi.org>
Cc: "DIY_EFI" <DIY_EFI@lists.diy-efi.org>
Subject: mini GM 2 bar MAP sensor?
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 15:23:58 -0500
Organization: Lingenfelter Performance Engineering
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Does anyone know if a mini 2 bar GM MAP sensor exists (similar in size to
the mini 1 bar MAP sensor used on the newer GM engines like the LS1)?

Thanks,


Jason


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 13:04:06 2001
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Subject: circuit to use GM temperature sensors for voltage based data acquisition input?
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 16:06:37 -0500
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Does anyone know what I need to do to build a circuit to be able to take
standard GM temperature sensors (IAT, ECT, oil temp.) and produce a 0 to 10
volt output for our data acquisition system. We currently have 12 vdc and
13.8 vdc power available although we could add some other DC power supply if
needed.

Sorry if this seems basic but that is what happens when you let mechanical
engineers start working with electronics and electrical systems.

Thanks,


Jason


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 13:18:00 2001
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: circuit to use GM temperature sensors for voltage based data acquisition input?
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Just cause the Datalogging allows 0-10 doesn't mean you have to use it.
the display maybe customizable (?<g>) to read just the 0-5 part anyway.
Other then the air flow computation, the other stuff really isn't that
critical.   And things like IAT sensors are rather slow to change anyway
Bruce

> Does anyone know what I need to do to build a circuit to be able to take
> standard GM temperature sensors (IAT, ECT, oil temp.) and produce a 0 to
10
> volt output for our data acquisition system. We currently have 12 vdc and
> 13.8 vdc power available although we could add some other DC power supply
if
> needed.
>
> Sorry if this seems basic but that is what happens when you let mechanical
> engineers start working with electronics and electrical systems.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Jason
>
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 14:58:31 2001
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Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 17:57:43 EST
Subject: Re: Fluke model 98 [was Re: spark timing measurement and recording]
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
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The '97 will do this measurement as well.  Check ebay they come up for sale there all the time.  $500 - $800.


In a message dated Thu, 8 Mar 2001  1:40:18 PM Eastern Standard Time, "Programmer" <nwester@eidnet.org> writes:

<< Jason,

There should be a couple sites that you could get a good refurbished 98
from--I'll dig them up.

Lyndon
----- Original Message -----
From: Jason R. Haines <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 11:16 AM
Subject: Fluke model 98 [was Re: spark timing measurement and recording]


> Thanks for the information. I called Fluke and they confirmed that the
model
> 98 can perform spark advance and rpm measurement and recording (to a PC).
> One problem - they don't make the Fluke model 98 anymore and it does not
> currently have a replacement either. I was told that they got caught off
> guard by a chip manufacturer's decision to stop making one of the critical
> chips used in the model 98. They bought a one-time buy of chips to service
> future model 98 repairs but had to stop making the model 98. Any other
scope
> meters from other companies that offer this feature?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Jason
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Moofaloof@aol.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 3:50 PM
> Subject: Re: spark timing measurement and recording
>
>
> > Yes, exactly.  I use a Fluke 97 scopemeter and pick off the crank
trigger
> signal and the signal to the coil on DIS cars or use an inductive pickup
on
> the plug wire.
> > jc
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > In a message dated Wed, 7 Mar 2001 11:37:10 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Ira
> Emus <ira@CamaroElectronics.com> writes:
> >
> > << At 08:21 AM 3/7/01 -0500, you wrote:
> > >Has anyone used any equipment to actually measure and record ignition
> timing
> > >at the engine.
> >
> > I have a Fluke Model 98 scopemeter that will do this if there is a TDC
> > crank pickup. Can't imagine it would be that hard to rig up a pickup if
> you
> > had the meter or something similar.
> >
> > Ira
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> >  >>
> >
> >
>
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> >
> >
>
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 >>


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 15:19:28 2001
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From: Charles <charlesmorris@erols.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: EGT and thermocouples
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 18:19:26 -0500
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On Thu, 8 Mar 2001 01:00:10 -0800, you wrote:

>Most guys that drag race use EGT to tune. Most of us look for a max of about
>1200 to 1250 degrees F as the car crosses the finish line, i.e. max load max
>rpm.

	I have a thermocouple in the exit of my exhaust
manifold, just upstream of the turbo. (Engine is a BMW 3.5
liter factory turbo six cylinder, 8:1 forged pistons, 275
degree cam, "log" manifold). I am running 15 psi boost with
two large extra fuel injectors mounted upstream of the
throttle body (engine is normally port-injected) and an MSD
Boost Timing Master set to about 0.7 degree/lb boost. 35
degrees at the crank at 0 psi.

	Temps run about 950 F at idle (timing retarded for
emissions), cruise is about 1200-1250 and WOT is 1600-1650
at 15 psi boost. With a small squirt of nitrous (single
Fogger nozzle, 40 hp) it pegs the gauge which only has a
scale to 1600. I don't keep it on long!

	Problem is thermocouple life. I first tried an
open-junction (i.e.unprotected) and it lasted about 5
minutes. A 1/16" diameter Inconel sheathed unit worked for
about 2 months of vigorous street driving before the end
burned off. I'd love to find a fast K-type thermocouple that
will not require a $40 replacement six times a year...

-Charles
'81 BMW 745i
-------------------------------------------------
Tired of noise from Dulles Airport, BWI or National?
Check out www.caan.org and call your Congressman!
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 16:10:58 2001
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Subject: Re: Igniter & coil Theory of Op
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: "Dan Zorde" <dzorde@erggroup.com>
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 08:10:17 +0800
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Does anyone know if there is a problem with the link for this document on
the ftp site.  When I click on it I get this reply    "Due to malformed
syntax, the request could not be understood by the server. The client
should not repeat the request without modifications."    I can download
other stuf of the ftp site, so it seems there is something wrong with this
one doc.

Dan  dzorde@erggroup.com

Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 19:35:18 -0800
From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
Subject: Igniter & coil Theory of Op

Evening all,

earlier today I loaded into incoming a doc called "Igniter & Coil theory"
as
I am working on my little project I realize that the more I know the less I
know & have to learn how to walk before I run.  that being said, I finished
the drawing today & would like a sanity check.  if you don't mind check it
out & let me know if I have told any cardinal lies, or if they are mostly
venial ones.

thanks,

Bob Wooten
r71chevy@earthlink.net
www.r71camaro.homestead.com



---------------------------- ERG Group --------------------------
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 and may only be read by the intended recipient.
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To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <3AA7633B.8D2A5153@cruzers.com>
Subject: Re: Winter gas vs summer gas
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 17:45:50 -0600
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----- Original Message -----
From: Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>

> Has anyone here experienced problems with "winter" gas?  Especially the
> oxygenated, reformulated, winter gas sold in California in (I think)
> November, December, and January?
>
> The previous two winters, the winter gas caused two of my vehicles to
> occasionally ping under mild throttle conditions.  Each year, by the
> time the weather warmed up enough (February) to consider diagnosing the
> pinging, the problem went away.  One vehicle is PFI and the other has a
> computer-carb.  A neighbor reported similar problems with a TBI engine.

Winter gas has a lower vapor pressure, so it vaporizes easier at low temps.
I'm not sure how that affects how it burns, but it may have something to do
with it.

> This winter, I didn't have the pinging.  Instead, the carb vehicle liked
> to stall when the engine was cool.  The engine acted/sounded like it
> went totally pig rich, the rpms dropped, it started rich misfiring, and
> eventually stalled.

That sounds more like summer gas in cooler temps. It's not vaporizing
(puddling in the manifold) and not mixing with the air so not burning. Did
you not have any problems with the PFI car this year?

Gerald Pelnar
McPherson, KS
wd0fyf@mpks.net
http://www.mpks.net/homepage/wd0fyf/


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you flunked.
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 17:34:01 2001
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Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 17:32:27 -0800
From: Carl Summers <InTech@writeme.com>
Subject: RE: test message, don't read
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I didn't read it. :)


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Shannen Durphey
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2001 4:57 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: test message, don't read


you flunked.
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 17:39:21 2001
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Sorry for the double post.  Trying to determine better/best lodgings for this
year.  If you don't mind contacting me offlist and letting me know where you
stayed, what they charged?  
Thanks.
Shannen
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 18:26:39 2001
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In a message dated 3/8/01 8:40:24 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
InTech@writeme.com writes:

> 
>  I didn't read it. :)
>  
Hows it goin Carl?
Mike V
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 19:22:16 2001
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Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 22:19:56 -0500
From: Nigel Heron <nigel@psycode.com>
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Subject: fuel rail
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hi,

i'm going to be making a custom fuel rail for my 16v vw out of billet
aluminum.
What is the appropriate internal volume of a fuel rail? is there a basic
guidline based on injector size, fuel pressure, max rpm, etc.?

thanks,
-nigel.

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 19:30:57 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: CNP coils
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 19:31:24 -0800
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thanks Bruce, as usual a plethora of useful information.

BW

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Bruce Plecan
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 10:25 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: CNP coils



From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
> what book are you talking about?

A book showing all the AC Delco Pigtails.

  what does it cross reference (from what to
> what)?

Pics of connetor to part number, and connector by item to part no.

does it have a part number on the cover that I can have him order?

My 96 catalog is Part No.,   16A-101
Bruce


>
> BW
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of Bruce Plecan
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 1:19 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: CNP coils
>
>
>
> If a store carries AC Spark Plugs they have access to ordering the book.
> Matter of fact they can order a book for you.     Mine is getting
seriously
> old now, but as I recall was $5.    Sounds like you give up way too easy,
> also, pays to make friends.
> Bruce
>
>
>
> From: "James Ballenger" <vtjballeng@yifan.net>
> > Thank you for pointing out the obvious... In the message below I said
that
> > that was not a good option for me and I was looking for something else..
> > The local autostores are willing to help, but don't carry the pigtails
and
> > dont have a cross ref to Gm part #.  The local AC Delco suppliers,
namely
> GM
> > dealerships, are less than enthusiatic about looking up parts and I have
> to
> > do some traveling to get to one.  That gmpartsdirect site is great, too
> bad
> > I couldn't get a harness based on the part I was looking up.
> >
> > James Ballenger
> >
> > >-----Original Message-----
> > >From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> > >Behalf Of Bruce Plecan
> > >Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 11:24 AM
> > >To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > >Subject: Re: CNP coils
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Any AC/Delco supplier should be able to get a hold of a
> > >Pigtail / Connector
> > >Catalog.   Has pics, and connectors cross referenced.
> > >Bruce
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >From: "James Ballenger" <vtjballeng@yifan.net>
> > >
> > >> Also, I have quite a few GM part #'s for sensors and I am
> > >looking for the
> > >> harness side for hooking up.  Anyone have any ideas where I
> > >might find
> > >some
> > >> harness information?  The local auto stores don't have it or
> > >won't help me
> > >> out on this one.
> > >> James Ballenger
> > >
> > >
> > >---------------------------------------------------------------
> > >-------------
> > >To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi"
> > >(without the quotes)
> > >in the body of a message (not the subject) to
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> > >
> > >
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 19:51:58 2001
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From: Bernd Felsche <bernie@innovative.iinet.net.au>
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Subject: Re: fuel rail
In-Reply-To: <3AA84BDC.1C3B8DAF@psycode.com> from Nigel Heron at "Mar 8, 2001
 10:19:56 pm"
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 11:51:07 +0800 (WST)
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Nigel Heron tapped away at the keyboard with:

> i'm going to be making a custom fuel rail for my 16v vw out of
> billet aluminum.
> What is the appropriate internal volume of a fuel rail? is there a
> basic guidline based on injector size, fuel pressure, max rpm,
> etc.?

Sorry; no hard and fast formulae...
But it would also depend on injection strategy; batch/sequential
firing including any possible overlapping of duty cycles with
sequential.

Also, coming into the equation is the fuel pump delivery rate and
pressure. The location of the pressure regulator also comes into the
equation(s).

I'm sure that one could sit down and work it out from scratch.
My initial instinct would be to verify that the fuel pump is up to
the job (i.e. capable of feeding all injectors at 100% duty cycle at
the required pressure), and then look at the response of the
pressure regulator.

Given that the amount of fuel injected is very small, any
steady-state analysis of the flow properties of the fuel rail would
be a waste of time.

There are 2 reasons why fuel rails are sized in a particular way:
1. to keep a fairly-constant fuel pressure during injection, and
2. to reduce the noise of pressure pulses.

Both of those can be helped by using a pulse-dampers which is
common in Bosch pulsed-injection systems (though VW tended not to
use them on Digifant at least, perhaps because of high fuel pump
delivery pressure or flexible mounting of the fuel rail). These
dampers are small pressure accumulators, typically mounted on the
fuel rail.

You can always "cheat" and look at the size of the fuel rail(s) on a
higher-performance production vehicle.

-- 
 /"\  Bernd Felsche - Innovative Reckoning, Perth, Western Australia
 \ /      ASCII ribbon campaign | I'm a .signature virus!       |
  X       against HTML mail     | Copy me into your ~/.signature|
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 20:17:41 2001
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From: romans@starstream.net (romans, mark)
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <22.12dd5331.27d7f91d@aol.com> <002b01c0a7fb$def06420$5ecdfea9@jrh>
Subject: Re: Fluke model 98 [was Re: spark timing measurement and recording]
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 20:15:37 -0800
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Hi Jason:

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=567361311

Fluke 98, 900.00, no bids so far, 2 days left.

Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 10:16 AM
Subject: Fluke model 98 [was Re: spark timing measurement and recording]


> Thanks for the information. I called Fluke and they confirmed that the
model
> 98 can perform spark advance and rpm measurement and recording (to a PC).
> One problem - they don't make the Fluke model 98 anymore and it does not
> currently have a replacement either. I was told that they got caught off
> guard by a chip manufacturer's decision to stop making one of the critical
> chips used in the model 98. They bought a one-time buy of chips to service
> future model 98 repairs but had to stop making the model 98. Any other
scope
> meters from other companies that offer this feature?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Jason
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Moofaloof@aol.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 3:50 PM
> Subject: Re: spark timing measurement and recording
>
>
> > Yes, exactly.  I use a Fluke 97 scopemeter and pick off the crank
trigger
> signal and the signal to the coil on DIS cars or use an inductive pickup
on
> the plug wire.
> > jc
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > In a message dated Wed, 7 Mar 2001 11:37:10 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Ira
> Emus <ira@CamaroElectronics.com> writes:
> >
> > << At 08:21 AM 3/7/01 -0500, you wrote:
> > >Has anyone used any equipment to actually measure and record ignition
> timing
> > >at the engine.
> >
> > I have a Fluke Model 98 scopemeter that will do this if there is a TDC
> > crank pickup. Can't imagine it would be that hard to rig up a pickup if
> you
> > had the meter or something similar.
> >
> > Ira
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> >
> >  >>
> >
> >
>
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> >
>
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http://www.rossmachine.com/racing/

these guys make custom 16v VW fuel rails from billet. you might want to
see what they have done.

-Seth

Nigel Heron wrote:
> 
> hi,
> 
> i'm going to be making a custom fuel rail for my 16v vw out of billet
> aluminum.
> What is the appropriate internal volume of a fuel rail? is there a basic
> guidline based on injector size, fuel pressure, max rpm, etc.?
> 
> thanks,
> -nigel.
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 20:42:42 2001
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Message-ID: <3AA85E39.AD29A2A0@arm.com>
Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 22:38:17 -0600
From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
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it downloaded OK for me, I suspect the problem is the spaces and "&" in
the filename.  I've renamed it to ignitor_coil_theory.doc, try that and
see if it works.

--steve

Dan Zorde wrote:
> Does anyone know if there is a problem with the link for this document on
> the ftp site.  When I click on it I get this reply    "Due to malformed
> syntax, the request could not be understood by the server. The client
> should not repeat the request without modifications."    I can download
> other stuf of the ftp site, so it seems there is something wrong with this
> one doc.

--steve

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 20:59:35 2001
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Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 20:58:33 -0800
From: Carl Summers <InTech@writeme.com>
Subject: RE: fuel rail
In-reply-to: <3AA85C68.4F4E98E@mediaone.net>
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Like someone else mentioned here earlier, there is no sure fire way to know
the correct inside diameter,,,lot's of variables.... if you are making your
own use as large as you can and you might even think about a fuel dampener
as well.  Datalogging the pressure in the rail under conditions is the only
way to know if you have a harmonic problem. hth's
-Carl

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Seth
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 8:31 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: fuel rail


http://www.rossmachine.com/racing/

these guys make custom 16v VW fuel rails from billet. you might want to
see what they have done.

-Seth

Nigel Heron wrote:
>
> hi,
>
> i'm going to be making a custom fuel rail for my 16v vw out of billet
> aluminum.
> What is the appropriate internal volume of a fuel rail? is there a basic
> guidline based on injector size, fuel pressure, max rpm, etc.?
>
> thanks,
> -nigel.
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Mar  8 21:24:30 2001
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From: "lance" <lmwolrab@prodigy.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Newbie...
Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 21:24:11 -0800
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Rumor has it the DSM guys have completely disassembled their code and they
have a guy who has written some interesting mods (2 stage rev limiter to
build boost at the line, etc).  I'd contact Dave Buschur The4Bangr@aol.com
and ask about DSMs.  He just recently joined the Toyota Supra Owner's group
and has been very open about his findings even though he is a well known
competitor in Import Drag racing.  Good luck!

Lance

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of steve ravet
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 10:19 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Newbie...


Chris, it seems like there's a ton of information for GM cars, somewhat
less for Fords, and basically none for anything else.  So it might be
hard to find out about your Eclipse.  But, you can look around at the
gmecm page and learn a lot about GM EFI strategy.  Another great place
is the archives of both diy-efi and gmecm.  Both archives can be
downloaded from their respective WWW pages, and searched with a text
editor or word processor.  I wouldn't try reading from end to end, but
browse around in them and read stuff that looks interesting.  There
isn't a good place to start, that I know of at least, other than read a
lot and ask questions.  Good luck!

--steve

> Chris Remshaw wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>   I have read this digest off and on for the past two years, and I
> have only begun to understand any of it.  I am a computer programmer,
> but a more internet-based one, and I would love to get more into
> programming ECU's.  Where is a good place to start (on the web, off
> the web, etc.)?  I'm knowledgable on the basics of cars and have done
> modifications to my own.  I have a '91 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS.
>
> Thanks,
> Chris Remshaw

--
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  9 00:55:34 2001
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Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 00:58:04 -0800
From: Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
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Gerald Pelnar wrote:
> 
> That sounds more like summer gas in cooler temps. It's not vaporizing
> (puddling in the manifold) and not mixing with the air so not burning. Did
> you not have any problems with the PFI car this year?

The fuel injected car is sleeping in a dry garage for the winter.

The problem occurred at air temperatures of 40 to 60F.  There was also
one instance of lousy idling in a traffic jam on a warm sunny 65F day.

Note to self: Get gas from Nevada/Arizona/Oregon when doing chip tuning.

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/

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From: DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@diy-efi.org (DIY_EFI Digest)
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Subject: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #520
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DIY_EFI Digest         Tuesday, March 6 2001         Volume 05 : Number 520



In this issue:

	Re: CS-453
	Basic TPS circuit help needed
	RE: Cal Map Software for Accel DFI
	Tuning with EGT
	RE: Tuning with EGT
	Re: Tuning with EGT
	Re: Tuning with EGT
	Re: Troubleshooting
	RE: Tuning with EGT
	RE: Tuning with EGT
	Re: Tuning with EGT
	Re: Tuning with EGT
	Re: $175 CO meter?
	Re: $175 CO meter?

See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 20:44:40 +1100
From: Wayne Macdonald <wmcdonal@hutch.com.au>
Subject: Re: CS-453

Has anyone found a replacement for the cherry CS-453 driver ?
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 08:14:51 -0500
From: Rodney_L_Wiggins@keybank.com
Subject: Basic TPS circuit help needed

Does any one have a schematic for a circuit I can use to convert the 0-1 volt
signal from my stock TPS to the 0-5 volt signal required by my accel unit.  I am
piggybacking the accel setup on the stock settup and to allow the stock computer
to handle timing and idle control (for now).  Anyway, I could run both TPSs if
there is good reason to go through the fabrication of such a setup.   I am quite
weak on the EE side of things so any guidance would be appreciated. I understand
the basic use of an op-amp but I don't know what sort of regulation or
protection is necessary to make this circuit reliable in an automotive
application. And I surely don't want to risk hurting either ECU.
TIA!
Rod


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 09:41:21 -0500 
From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
Subject: RE: Cal Map Software for Accel DFI

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

- ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0A582.589C3E60
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Yes, I've seen the new software too.  Pretty nice.  

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Wooten [mailto:r71chevy@earthlink.net]
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 1:25 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Cal Map Software for Accel DFI


Tom,
 
I read an article about a gent that worked for Accels parent company that
just built this wicked 1000 hp turbo motor.  he was using the latest version
of the CalMap software (CalMap 2001 or something like that).  this is
supposed to go along with their next gen ECM's that I hear are not out yet.
from what I understand, both are supposed to be worth the wait.  one of the
guys on this list (Pretty sure it was this list), just got the new eval
version of it & was goo goo about it.  he said that he had to call them to
get them to send it to him.  
 
from what it sounds Accel is pretty serious about this now & are making
stuff to compete with the WBO2 units & w/easier programmability.
 
Good luck
Bob Wooten
 

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On Behalf
Of RSRACE@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2001 10:01 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Cal Map Software for Accel DFI


Does anyone have the software for Accel DFI.  I am looking at purchasing it 
for a Vette Project and would like to see the software and possibly save 
$200.  E-mail me if you have info. 

Thanks 
Tom 


- ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0A582.589C3E60
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	charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">


<META content="MSHTML 5.00.3105.105" name=GENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face="Century Gothic" size=2><SPAN 
class=560024214-05032001>Yes, I've seen the new software too.&nbsp; Pretty 
nice.&nbsp; </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV align=left class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr><FONT face=Tahoma 
  size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> Bob Wooten 
  [mailto:r71chevy@earthlink.net]<BR><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 04, 2001 1:25 
  AM<BR><B>To:</B> diy_efi@diy-efi.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> RE: Cal Map Software 
  for Accel DFI<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
  <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
  class=050501906-04032001>Tom,</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
  class=050501906-04032001></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=050501906-04032001>I 
  read an article about a gent that worked for Accels parent company that just 
  built this wicked 1000 hp turbo motor.&nbsp; he was using the latest version 
  of the CalMap software (CalMap 2001 or something like that).&nbsp; this is 
  supposed to go along with their next gen ECM's that I hear are not out 
  yet.&nbsp; from what I understand, both are supposed to be worth the 
  wait.&nbsp; one of the guys on this list (Pretty sure it was this list), just 
  got the new eval version of it &amp; was goo goo about it.&nbsp; he said that 
  he had to call them to get them to send it to him.&nbsp; </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
  class=050501906-04032001></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=050501906-04032001>from 
  what it sounds Accel is pretty serious about this now &amp; are making stuff 
  to compete with the WBO2 units &amp; w/easier 
  programmability.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
  class=050501906-04032001></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=050501906-04032001>Good 
  luck</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=050501906-04032001>Bob 
  Wooten</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
  class=050501906-04032001></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE>
    <DIV align=left class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr><FONT face=Tahoma 
    size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org 
    [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]<B>On Behalf Of 
    </B>RSRACE@aol.com<BR><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, March 03, 2001 10:01 
    PM<BR><B>To:</B> diy_efi@diy-efi.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Cal Map Software for 
    Accel DFI<BR><BR></DIV></FONT><FONT face=arial,helvetica><FONT size=2>Does 
    anyone have the software for Accel DFI. &nbsp;I am looking at purchasing it 
    <BR>for a Vette Project and would like to see the software and possibly save 
    <BR>$200. &nbsp;E-mail me if you have info. <BR><BR>Thanks <BR>Tom</FONT> 
    </FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 08:41:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Grant Crockett <idratherbedriving@yahoo.com>
Subject: Tuning with EGT

Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.

If so, what are you getting for temperature readings? 
I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
optimum performance, without detonation.

end
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Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 17:26:59 -0000
From: "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT

Hmmm, that's an interesting thought - can EGT be used in any way to indicate
onset of detonation?
Rich

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of Grant Crockett
> Sent: 05 March 2001 16:42
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Tuning with EGT
>
>
> Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
>
> If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> optimum performance, without detonation.
>
> end
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----------
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without
> the quotes)
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 12:37:22 -0500
From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT

We used to use EGTs for tuning but have switched to individual AFRs. We have
found the AFR to react much faster than the EGT. If you look at the time
constansts for most thermocouples, the amount of time required to get to 90%
of the actual reading is often measured in seconds while the UEGO sensors
are measured in milliseconds. Also, you can be rich or lean and cause
similar EGT's to occur depending on where the combustion is taking place (in
the chamber or in the exhaust).

Just my $0.02

Jason

> Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
>
> If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> optimum performance, without detonation.
>
> end
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 12:51:22 -0500
From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT

I have seen various discussion on this issue. I would agree that tuning by 
EGT alone can be dangerous becuase it can occur at different AFR's. Likewise 
tuning with AFR alone can also be a limitation becuase you don't know how 
close to the threshold before detonation you are. My comments apply largely 
to turbo efi cars as that is my experience but it is very possible to be at 
desired AFR but be 100+ deg F cool on the EGT, that means that ther is some 
room for more power to be made. I feel that both are probably better then 
one or the other. That being said I would rather have an AFR if I was 
limited to only one.
Justin


>From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT
>Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 12:37:22 -0500
>
>We used to use EGTs for tuning but have switched to individual AFRs. We 
>have
>found the AFR to react much faster than the EGT. If you look at the time
>constansts for most thermocouples, the amount of time required to get to 
>90%
>of the actual reading is often measured in seconds while the UEGO sensors
>are measured in milliseconds. Also, you can be rich or lean and cause
>similar EGT's to occur depending on where the combustion is taking place 
>(in
>the chamber or in the exhaust).
>
>Just my $0.02
>
>Jason
>
> > Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> > gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> > thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> > heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
> >
> > If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> > I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> > optimum performance, without detonation.
> >
> > end
> > 
>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>--
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
>quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to 
>majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> >
>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 13:34:58 -0800
From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@home.com>
Subject: Re: Troubleshooting

> I am having trouble with my fuel injection.Some co workers and I are
stumped
> as to what is wrong.
>
> The Integrator will bounce between 240-255 and 0. At idle it will read in
> the upper 200's. It will hit 0 with throttle tip in and go back and forth
> between 2xx and 0 during driving. 02 fluctuates and crosscounts. All other
> sensors seem to be reading ok. Block learn is 124 to 128, as seen on a
Snap
> on Scanner.
>
>Chris



Does your vehicle have an actual driveability problem that you are
attempting to cure, or is this just something that you've noticed while
staring at the scantool periodically?  I had a similar situation once, and
eventually decided it was a software and/or scan tool glitch.  The problem
only occurred when using my Snap-On MT2500 scan tool, but was absent when
using a Tech I.  The vehicle ran fine.

Every once in awhile, one frame of data would get messed up, and then the
next would typically be fine.  Never more than 2 messed frames in a row.
The only two parameters that were affected were the INT and the ESC status.
INT would read funny (ie:
27.....41.....48......0......63.....66......70......225.....232.........
real numbers from scans of that vehicle).  ESC would toggle from NO to YES
whenever the INT was messed.

If you don't have an actual driveability problem, and if you don't think
that your computer is suffering some form of reset (monitor the EST bypass
line, and power & ground lines, with an oscilloscope to look for glitches),
then I would ignore the whole deal.

Walt.

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 12:35:17 -0600 
From: don.broadus@exeloncorp.com
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT

Has anybody tried the new RTD type EGT that are on the newer cars they are
supposed to be much faster than thermocouples 

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Jason R. Haines [SMTP:jhaines@lingenfelter.com]
> Sent:	Monday, March 05, 2001 11:37 AM
> To:	diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject:	Re: Tuning with EGT
> 
> We used to use EGTs for tuning but have switched to individual AFRs. We
> have
> found the AFR to react much faster than the EGT. If you look at the time
> constansts for most thermocouples, the amount of time required to get to
> 90%
> of the actual reading is often measured in seconds while the UEGO sensors
> are measured in milliseconds. Also, you can be rich or lean and cause
> similar EGT's to occur depending on where the combustion is taking place
> (in
> the chamber or in the exhaust).
> 
> Just my $0.02
> 
> Jason
> 
> > Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> > gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> > thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> > heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
> >
> > If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> > I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> > optimum performance, without detonation.
> >
> > end
> >
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
> majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> >
> 
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 12:56:59 -0600
From: "Josh Pullen" <joshpullen@onebox.com>
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT

EGT's can really only indicate that you may be running lean or not. 
But there are can be other causes for detonation than just a lean condition.

- -- 
Josh Pullen
1994 HKS T04R Supra Turbo 
http://jmpvm.dyndns.org


- ---- "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net> wrote:
> Hmmm, that's an interesting thought - can EGT be used in any way to
> indicate
> onset of detonation?
> Rich
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> > Behalf Of Grant Crockett
> > Sent: 05 March 2001 16:42
> > To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > Subject: Tuning with EGT
> >
> >
> > Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> > gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> > thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> > heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
> >
> > If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> > I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> > optimum performance, without detonation.
> >
> > end
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
> > ----------
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without
> > the quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> 
> 

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 14:40:58 -0500
From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT

EGT's are about reaching the thermal limits of the engine.
No more, nor less.
You can change the EGTs by changing timing, and fuel, etc..

You monitor EGTs, not tune to a specific EGT, though folks often fall into
it worked for Mr ABC, so it is a Golden Rule.



- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Josh Pullen" <joshpullen@onebox.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 1:56 PM
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT


> EGT's can really only indicate that you may be running lean or not.
> But there are can be other causes for detonation than just a lean
condition.
>
> --
> Josh Pullen
> 1994 HKS T04R Supra Turbo
> http://jmpvm.dyndns.org
>
>
> ---- "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net> wrote:
> > Hmmm, that's an interesting thought - can EGT be used in any way to
> > indicate
> > onset of detonation?
> > Rich
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> > > Behalf Of Grant Crockett
> > > Sent: 05 March 2001 16:42
> > > To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > > Subject: Tuning with EGT
> > >
> > >
> > > Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> > > gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> > > thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> > > heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
> > >
> > > If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> > > I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> > > optimum performance, without detonation.
> > >
> > > end
> > > ------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > ----------
> > > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without
> > > the quotes)
> > > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> > >
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> > quotes)
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> >
> >
>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 15:24:00 -0500
From: "Larry Heath" <lgheath@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT

Most guys that drag race use EGT to tune. Most of us look for a max of about
1200 to 1250 degrees F as the car crosses the finish line, i.e. max load max
rpm. This is of course using fuels with very high octane ratings, generally
no less than 105 octane and as much as 118, that are generally not prone to
detonation even under extreme conditions. I lot of guys use the EGT's in
tuning alcohol fueled engines, as the typical signs use to tune gas fired
engines are generally not present, the alcohol fuel being very clean burning
and has such a wide range of flammability. Most guys seem to use the same
basic temp range as a max, although I have seen references to EGT's much
lower than the 1200 to 1250 range as being ideal for max power.

Thermocouples (K type) are generally fairly slow as far as response time
goes, at least for the typical thermocouples used in this application. The
faster the response rate of the couple the shorter the average life of the
unit is.  I have seen bare wire thermocouples with standard response times
of as little as .004 sec, but these would not last any significant amount of
time, in an exhaust gas environment. About the minimum wire size that would
be usable as a EGT is .015" and this has about a .8 sec response time going
from 100 to 800 degrees in 60 ft/sec gas.

Along these same lines I have a question; does any have any info about
tuning alcohol fueled engines using an O2 sensor or other similar sensor to
allow A/F ratios to be determined on a much faster basis than the typical
EGT thermocouple sensors.

Later Larry

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Grant Crockett" <idratherbedriving@yahoo.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 11:41 AM
Subject: Tuning with EGT


> Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
>
> If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> optimum performance, without detonation.
>
> end
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 20:27:36 -0500
From: bjanesi@juno.com
Subject: Re: $175 CO meter?

"Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>  wrote...
>in a green box  it sounds like it may be made by 'Gunsons'. If it is the
> unit I'm thinking of, your conclusion is correct - best left in the
shop -
> we had one here at work for evaluation (albeit a bit unfairly comparing
it
> to an infra-red absorption meter) and it wasn't much use.
> However I may be completely wrong and thinking of a different 
> unit.......

The Gunson is the only one I have ever seen (okay, they make two models -
one with a digital gauge, the other a sweep hand).  I went so far as to
buy one of these (the digital one), only to return shortly after
purchase.  IMO, it is for very crude measurements - mine swung wildly
around a range of negative (?) PPM to over a hundred PPM on a car that
was in a very clean state of tune.

I suspect the $35 home CO meter may actually be more accurate, and I'd be
interested to hear of your success (or failure) in using it for exhaust
CO measurement.

Brad
________________________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 22:36:57 -0500
From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
Subject: Re: $175 CO meter?

Sounds like an update on the old Heathkit CO2 meter kit.
Sensor was just part of a whetstone bridge.
State of the art circa 1975
Bruce

From: <bjanesi@juno.com>
> "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>  wrote...
> >in a green box  it sounds like it may be made by 'Gunsons'. If it is the
> > unit I'm thinking of, your conclusion is correct - best left in the
> shop -
> > we had one here at work for evaluation (albeit a bit unfairly comparing
> it
> > to an infra-red absorption meter) and it wasn't much use.
> > However I may be completely wrong and thinking of a different 
> > unit.......
> 
> The Gunson is the only one I have ever seen (okay, they make two models -
> one with a digital gauge, the other a sweep hand).  I went so far as to
> buy one of these (the digital one), only to return shortly after
> purchase.  IMO, it is for very crude measurements - mine swung wildly
> around a range of negative (?) PPM to over a hundred PPM on a car that
> was in a very clean state of tune.
> 
> I suspect the $35 home CO meter may actually be more accurate, and I'd be
> interested to hear of your success (or failure) in using it for exhaust
> CO measurement.
> 
> Brad

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  9 01:50:56 2001
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From: "Tony Bryant" <brd@paradise.net.nz>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Re: fuel rail
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 22:51:49 +1300
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>
>i'm going to be making a custom fuel rail for my 16v vw out of billet
>aluminum.
>What is the appropriate internal volume of a fuel rail? is there a basic
>guidline based on injector size, fuel pressure, max rpm, etc.?
>


Big as practical. The only disadvantage in going "too big" is weight.


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DIY_EFI Digest         Tuesday, March 6 2001         Volume 05 : Number 520



In this issue:

	Re: CS-453
	Basic TPS circuit help needed
	RE: Cal Map Software for Accel DFI
	Tuning with EGT
	RE: Tuning with EGT
	Re: Tuning with EGT
	Re: Tuning with EGT
	Re: Troubleshooting
	RE: Tuning with EGT
	RE: Tuning with EGT
	Re: Tuning with EGT
	Re: Tuning with EGT
	Re: $175 CO meter?
	Re: $175 CO meter?

See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.

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Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 20:44:40 +1100
From: Wayne Macdonald <wmcdonal@hutch.com.au>
Subject: Re: CS-453

Has anyone found a replacement for the cherry CS-453 driver ?
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 08:14:51 -0500
From: Rodney_L_Wiggins@keybank.com
Subject: Basic TPS circuit help needed

Does any one have a schematic for a circuit I can use to convert the 0-1 volt
signal from my stock TPS to the 0-5 volt signal required by my accel unit.  I am
piggybacking the accel setup on the stock settup and to allow the stock computer
to handle timing and idle control (for now).  Anyway, I could run both TPSs if
there is good reason to go through the fabrication of such a setup.   I am quite
weak on the EE side of things so any guidance would be appreciated. I understand
the basic use of an op-amp but I don't know what sort of regulation or
protection is necessary to make this circuit reliable in an automotive
application. And I surely don't want to risk hurting either ECU.
TIA!
Rod


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Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 09:41:21 -0500 
From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
Subject: RE: Cal Map Software for Accel DFI

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

- ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0A582.589C3E60
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Yes, I've seen the new software too.  Pretty nice.  

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Wooten [mailto:r71chevy@earthlink.net]
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 1:25 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Cal Map Software for Accel DFI


Tom,
 
I read an article about a gent that worked for Accels parent company that
just built this wicked 1000 hp turbo motor.  he was using the latest version
of the CalMap software (CalMap 2001 or something like that).  this is
supposed to go along with their next gen ECM's that I hear are not out yet.
from what I understand, both are supposed to be worth the wait.  one of the
guys on this list (Pretty sure it was this list), just got the new eval
version of it & was goo goo about it.  he said that he had to call them to
get them to send it to him.  
 
from what it sounds Accel is pretty serious about this now & are making
stuff to compete with the WBO2 units & w/easier programmability.
 
Good luck
Bob Wooten
 

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On Behalf
Of RSRACE@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2001 10:01 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Cal Map Software for Accel DFI


Does anyone have the software for Accel DFI.  I am looking at purchasing it 
for a Vette Project and would like to see the software and possibly save 
$200.  E-mail me if you have info. 

Thanks 
Tom 


- ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0A582.589C3E60
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">


<META content="MSHTML 5.00.3105.105" name=GENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face="Century Gothic" size=2><SPAN 
class=560024214-05032001>Yes, I've seen the new software too.&nbsp; Pretty 
nice.&nbsp; </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV align=left class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr><FONT face=Tahoma 
  size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> Bob Wooten 
  [mailto:r71chevy@earthlink.net]<BR><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 04, 2001 1:25 
  AM<BR><B>To:</B> diy_efi@diy-efi.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> RE: Cal Map Software 
  for Accel DFI<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
  <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
  class=050501906-04032001>Tom,</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
  class=050501906-04032001></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=050501906-04032001>I 
  read an article about a gent that worked for Accels parent company that just 
  built this wicked 1000 hp turbo motor.&nbsp; he was using the latest version 
  of the CalMap software (CalMap 2001 or something like that).&nbsp; this is 
  supposed to go along with their next gen ECM's that I hear are not out 
  yet.&nbsp; from what I understand, both are supposed to be worth the 
  wait.&nbsp; one of the guys on this list (Pretty sure it was this list), just 
  got the new eval version of it &amp; was goo goo about it.&nbsp; he said that 
  he had to call them to get them to send it to him.&nbsp; </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
  class=050501906-04032001></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=050501906-04032001>from 
  what it sounds Accel is pretty serious about this now &amp; are making stuff 
  to compete with the WBO2 units &amp; w/easier 
  programmability.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
  class=050501906-04032001></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=050501906-04032001>Good 
  luck</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=050501906-04032001>Bob 
  Wooten</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
  class=050501906-04032001></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE>
    <DIV align=left class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr><FONT face=Tahoma 
    size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org 
    [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]<B>On Behalf Of 
    </B>RSRACE@aol.com<BR><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, March 03, 2001 10:01 
    PM<BR><B>To:</B> diy_efi@diy-efi.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Cal Map Software for 
    Accel DFI<BR><BR></DIV></FONT><FONT face=arial,helvetica><FONT size=2>Does 
    anyone have the software for Accel DFI. &nbsp;I am looking at purchasing it 
    <BR>for a Vette Project and would like to see the software and possibly save 
    <BR>$200. &nbsp;E-mail me if you have info. <BR><BR>Thanks <BR>Tom</FONT> 
    </FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 08:41:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Grant Crockett <idratherbedriving@yahoo.com>
Subject: Tuning with EGT

Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.

If so, what are you getting for temperature readings? 
I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
optimum performance, without detonation.

end
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Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 17:26:59 -0000
From: "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT

Hmmm, that's an interesting thought - can EGT be used in any way to indicate
onset of detonation?
Rich

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of Grant Crockett
> Sent: 05 March 2001 16:42
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Tuning with EGT
>
>
> Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
>
> If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> optimum performance, without detonation.
>
> end
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----------
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without
> the quotes)
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 12:37:22 -0500
From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT

We used to use EGTs for tuning but have switched to individual AFRs. We have
found the AFR to react much faster than the EGT. If you look at the time
constansts for most thermocouples, the amount of time required to get to 90%
of the actual reading is often measured in seconds while the UEGO sensors
are measured in milliseconds. Also, you can be rich or lean and cause
similar EGT's to occur depending on where the combustion is taking place (in
the chamber or in the exhaust).

Just my $0.02

Jason

> Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
>
> If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> optimum performance, without detonation.
>
> end
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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quotes)
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 12:51:22 -0500
From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT

I have seen various discussion on this issue. I would agree that tuning by 
EGT alone can be dangerous becuase it can occur at different AFR's. Likewise 
tuning with AFR alone can also be a limitation becuase you don't know how 
close to the threshold before detonation you are. My comments apply largely 
to turbo efi cars as that is my experience but it is very possible to be at 
desired AFR but be 100+ deg F cool on the EGT, that means that ther is some 
room for more power to be made. I feel that both are probably better then 
one or the other. That being said I would rather have an AFR if I was 
limited to only one.
Justin


>From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT
>Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 12:37:22 -0500
>
>We used to use EGTs for tuning but have switched to individual AFRs. We 
>have
>found the AFR to react much faster than the EGT. If you look at the time
>constansts for most thermocouples, the amount of time required to get to 
>90%
>of the actual reading is often measured in seconds while the UEGO sensors
>are measured in milliseconds. Also, you can be rich or lean and cause
>similar EGT's to occur depending on where the combustion is taking place 
>(in
>the chamber or in the exhaust).
>
>Just my $0.02
>
>Jason
>
> > Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> > gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> > thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> > heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
> >
> > If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> > I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> > optimum performance, without detonation.
> >
> > end
> > 
>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 13:34:58 -0800
From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@home.com>
Subject: Re: Troubleshooting

> I am having trouble with my fuel injection.Some co workers and I are
stumped
> as to what is wrong.
>
> The Integrator will bounce between 240-255 and 0. At idle it will read in
> the upper 200's. It will hit 0 with throttle tip in and go back and forth
> between 2xx and 0 during driving. 02 fluctuates and crosscounts. All other
> sensors seem to be reading ok. Block learn is 124 to 128, as seen on a
Snap
> on Scanner.
>
>Chris



Does your vehicle have an actual driveability problem that you are
attempting to cure, or is this just something that you've noticed while
staring at the scantool periodically?  I had a similar situation once, and
eventually decided it was a software and/or scan tool glitch.  The problem
only occurred when using my Snap-On MT2500 scan tool, but was absent when
using a Tech I.  The vehicle ran fine.

Every once in awhile, one frame of data would get messed up, and then the
next would typically be fine.  Never more than 2 messed frames in a row.
The only two parameters that were affected were the INT and the ESC status.
INT would read funny (ie:
27.....41.....48......0......63.....66......70......225.....232.........
real numbers from scans of that vehicle).  ESC would toggle from NO to YES
whenever the INT was messed.

If you don't have an actual driveability problem, and if you don't think
that your computer is suffering some form of reset (monitor the EST bypass
line, and power & ground lines, with an oscilloscope to look for glitches),
then I would ignore the whole deal.

Walt.

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Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 12:35:17 -0600 
From: don.broadus@exeloncorp.com
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT

Has anybody tried the new RTD type EGT that are on the newer cars they are
supposed to be much faster than thermocouples 

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Jason R. Haines [SMTP:jhaines@lingenfelter.com]
> Sent:	Monday, March 05, 2001 11:37 AM
> To:	diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject:	Re: Tuning with EGT
> 
> We used to use EGTs for tuning but have switched to individual AFRs. We
> have
> found the AFR to react much faster than the EGT. If you look at the time
> constansts for most thermocouples, the amount of time required to get to
> 90%
> of the actual reading is often measured in seconds while the UEGO sensors
> are measured in milliseconds. Also, you can be rich or lean and cause
> similar EGT's to occur depending on where the combustion is taking place
> (in
> the chamber or in the exhaust).
> 
> Just my $0.02
> 
> Jason
> 
> > Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> > gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> > thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> > heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
> >
> > If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> > I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> > optimum performance, without detonation.
> >
> > end
> >
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
> majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> >
> 
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Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 12:56:59 -0600
From: "Josh Pullen" <joshpullen@onebox.com>
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT

EGT's can really only indicate that you may be running lean or not. 
But there are can be other causes for detonation than just a lean condition.

- -- 
Josh Pullen
1994 HKS T04R Supra Turbo 
http://jmpvm.dyndns.org


- ---- "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net> wrote:
> Hmmm, that's an interesting thought - can EGT be used in any way to
> indicate
> onset of detonation?
> Rich
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> > Behalf Of Grant Crockett
> > Sent: 05 March 2001 16:42
> > To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > Subject: Tuning with EGT
> >
> >
> > Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> > gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> > thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> > heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
> >
> > If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> > I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> > optimum performance, without detonation.
> >
> > end
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
> > ----------
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without
> > the quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> quotes)
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> 
> 

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 14:40:58 -0500
From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT

EGT's are about reaching the thermal limits of the engine.
No more, nor less.
You can change the EGTs by changing timing, and fuel, etc..

You monitor EGTs, not tune to a specific EGT, though folks often fall into
it worked for Mr ABC, so it is a Golden Rule.



- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Josh Pullen" <joshpullen@onebox.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 1:56 PM
Subject: RE: Tuning with EGT


> EGT's can really only indicate that you may be running lean or not.
> But there are can be other causes for detonation than just a lean
condition.
>
> --
> Josh Pullen
> 1994 HKS T04R Supra Turbo
> http://jmpvm.dyndns.org
>
>
> ---- "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net> wrote:
> > Hmmm, that's an interesting thought - can EGT be used in any way to
> > indicate
> > onset of detonation?
> > Rich
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> > > Behalf Of Grant Crockett
> > > Sent: 05 March 2001 16:42
> > > To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > > Subject: Tuning with EGT
> > >
> > >
> > > Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> > > gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> > > thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> > > heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
> > >
> > > If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> > > I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> > > optimum performance, without detonation.
> > >
> > > end
> > > ------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > ----------
> > > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without
> > > the quotes)
> > > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> > >
> >
>
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> >
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>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 15:24:00 -0500
From: "Larry Heath" <lgheath@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Tuning with EGT

Most guys that drag race use EGT to tune. Most of us look for a max of about
1200 to 1250 degrees F as the car crosses the finish line, i.e. max load max
rpm. This is of course using fuels with very high octane ratings, generally
no less than 105 octane and as much as 118, that are generally not prone to
detonation even under extreme conditions. I lot of guys use the EGT's in
tuning alcohol fueled engines, as the typical signs use to tune gas fired
engines are generally not present, the alcohol fuel being very clean burning
and has such a wide range of flammability. Most guys seem to use the same
basic temp range as a max, although I have seen references to EGT's much
lower than the 1200 to 1250 range as being ideal for max power.

Thermocouples (K type) are generally fairly slow as far as response time
goes, at least for the typical thermocouples used in this application. The
faster the response rate of the couple the shorter the average life of the
unit is.  I have seen bare wire thermocouples with standard response times
of as little as .004 sec, but these would not last any significant amount of
time, in an exhaust gas environment. About the minimum wire size that would
be usable as a EGT is .015" and this has about a .8 sec response time going
from 100 to 800 degrees in 60 ft/sec gas.

Along these same lines I have a question; does any have any info about
tuning alcohol fueled engines using an O2 sensor or other similar sensor to
allow A/F ratios to be determined on a much faster basis than the typical
EGT thermocouple sensors.

Later Larry

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Grant Crockett" <idratherbedriving@yahoo.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 11:41 AM
Subject: Tuning with EGT


> Has anybody done air-fuel mixture tuning with exhaust
> gas temp rather than O2 sensor?  I have read that the
> thermocouple has a much quicker reaction time to high
> heat/lean fuel conditions than an O2 sensor.
>
> If so, what are you getting for temperature readings?
> I am wondering what temps (deg F) would equate to
> optimum performance, without detonation.
>
> end
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>

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Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 20:27:36 -0500
From: bjanesi@juno.com
Subject: Re: $175 CO meter?

"Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>  wrote...
>in a green box  it sounds like it may be made by 'Gunsons'. If it is the
> unit I'm thinking of, your conclusion is correct - best left in the
shop -
> we had one here at work for evaluation (albeit a bit unfairly comparing
it
> to an infra-red absorption meter) and it wasn't much use.
> However I may be completely wrong and thinking of a different 
> unit.......

The Gunson is the only one I have ever seen (okay, they make two models -
one with a digital gauge, the other a sweep hand).  I went so far as to
buy one of these (the digital one), only to return shortly after
purchase.  IMO, it is for very crude measurements - mine swung wildly
around a range of negative (?) PPM to over a hundred PPM on a car that
was in a very clean state of tune.

I suspect the $35 home CO meter may actually be more accurate, and I'd be
interested to hear of your success (or failure) in using it for exhaust
CO measurement.

Brad
________________________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 22:36:57 -0500
From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
Subject: Re: $175 CO meter?

Sounds like an update on the old Heathkit CO2 meter kit.
Sensor was just part of a whetstone bridge.
State of the art circa 1975
Bruce

From: <bjanesi@juno.com>
> "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>  wrote...
> >in a green box  it sounds like it may be made by 'Gunsons'. If it is the
> > unit I'm thinking of, your conclusion is correct - best left in the
> shop -
> > we had one here at work for evaluation (albeit a bit unfairly comparing
> it
> > to an infra-red absorption meter) and it wasn't much use.
> > However I may be completely wrong and thinking of a different 
> > unit.......
> 
> The Gunson is the only one I have ever seen (okay, they make two models -
> one with a digital gauge, the other a sweep hand).  I went so far as to
> buy one of these (the digital one), only to return shortly after
> purchase.  IMO, it is for very crude measurements - mine swung wildly
> around a range of negative (?) PPM to over a hundred PPM on a car that
> was in a very clean state of tune.
> 
> I suspect the $35 home CO meter may actually be more accurate, and I'd be
> interested to hear of your success (or failure) in using it for exhaust
> CO measurement.
> 
> Brad

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>

Nice meter but needs changes needed to read accurate  regulate voltage into
whetstone bridge then put a constant velocity pump on it . Remember to not go way
lean it will invert and show rich.  Nice meter just a bit slower than new wide band
o2 meters but no sensor to change ever . Tune race car with one for years.

Steve

> Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 22:36:57 -0500
> From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
> Subject: Re: $175 CO meter?
>
> Sounds like an update on the old Heathkit CO2 meter kit.
> Sensor was just part of a whetstone bridge.
> State of the art circa 1975
> Bruce

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  9 03:47:13 2001
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Subject: Re: $175 CO meter?
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Ditto that for me.  The thought of using a cheap home CO meter is very
enticing.  As a home tuner I really don't care what the absolute value of a
particular measurement is.  I'm only interested in the relative magnitude.
I would use this for tuning my motorcycle and a small portable unit would
be very attractive.  Obviously one would have to remove the sensor for
insertion into the exhaust gas stream and make a DC supply but that should
be easy.  This could be a good example of the cost efficiencies of mass
manufacturing allowing a non-standard use.
Comments anyone?

Neil



>
I suspect the $35 home CO meter may actually be more accurate, and I'd be
interested to hear of your success (or failure) in using it for exhaust
CO measurement.
>



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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  9 04:11:06 2001
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Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 07:10:53 -0500
From: Rob O <rjo1@home.com>
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References: <NDBBKACOPLMOECIJPLBMGEPLGLAA.lmwolrab@prodigy.net>
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Check out www.tmo.com, Buschur has no clue on disassembling code and
will tell you that in his Northern Ohio way 

ROb_O

lance wrote:
> 
> Rumor has it the DSM guys have completely disassembled their code and they
> have a guy who has written some interesting mods (2 stage rev limiter to
> build boost at the line, etc).  I'd contact Dave Buschur The4Bangr@aol.com
> and ask about DSMs.  He just recently joined the Toyota Supra Owner's group
> and has been very open about his findings even though he is a well known
> competitor in Import Drag racing.  Good luck!
> 
> Lance
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of steve ravet
> Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 10:19 AM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: Newbie...
> 
> Chris, it seems like there's a ton of information for GM cars, somewhat
> less for Fords, and basically none for anything else.  So it might be
> hard to find out about your Eclipse.  But, you can look around at the
> gmecm page and learn a lot about GM EFI strategy.  Another great place
> is the archives of both diy-efi and gmecm.  Both archives can be
> downloaded from their respective WWW pages, and searched with a text
> editor or word processor.  I wouldn't try reading from end to end, but
> browse around in them and read stuff that looks interesting.  There
> isn't a good place to start, that I know of at least, other than read a
> lot and ask questions.  Good luck!
> 
> --steve
> 
> > Chris Remshaw wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >   I have read this digest off and on for the past two years, and I
> > have only begun to understand any of it.  I am a computer programmer,
> > but a more internet-based one, and I would love to get more into
> > programming ECU's.  Where is a good place to start (on the web, off
> > the web, etc.)?  I'm knowledgable on the basics of cars and have done
> > modifications to my own.  I have a '91 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Chris Remshaw
> 
> --
> Steve Ravet
> steve.ravet@arm.com
> ARM,Inc.
> www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  9 04:17:23 2001
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From: Mike Blakey <mike.blakey@baesystems.com>
Subject: Accuracy of timing?
To: DIY_EFI@lists.diy-efi.org, efi332@lists.diy-efi.org
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My previous DIS was time based and the accuracy was about 0.2ms, I have changed my 
processor and the way the code works, and my accuracy is now >0.3 deg. I have 
worked out a way of getting >0.1 deg accuracy with an 8bit table value, but is this 
necessary? How accurate does it have to be?



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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  9 04:57:52 2001
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Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 11:08:14 +0000
From: Mike Blakey <mike.blakey@baesystems.com>
Subject: MAP Sensor
To: DIY_EFI@lists.diy-efi.org, efi332@lists.diy-efi.org
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My company has changed my e-mail address so I've resent this post...

I have made my own MAP sensor from a differential bridge sensor (-1 to 0 bar). It 
works fine but I'm unsure of the expected range on a manifold, so far I've only 
managed to get down to -780 mbar. If this is about typical I can alter the gain and 
span to get better resolution over the expected range.  My sensor also is 
differential to atmospheric pressure, where as the OEM sensors do not seem to be, 
is the correct?



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On Thu, 08 Mar 2001, Nigel Heron wrote:

> Subject: fuel rail
>
> hi,
>
> i'm going to be making a custom fuel rail for my 16v
> vw out of billet aluminum.
> What is the appropriate internal volume of a fuel 
> rail? is there a basic guidline based on injector 
> size, fuel pressure, max rpm, etc.?
>
> thanks,
> - -nigel.

Nigel, listers,

You can get fuel rail extrusion for $12/ft from
Arizona Speed and Marine:

http://www.azspeed-marine.com/products/fuelinj/injacc.html

This rail is sized for V-8's, (approx 1/2" ID), so
it's probably not too large. Of course, you may still
have to deal with harmonics, etc., but at that price,
you can afford to build a few and experiment.

I bought my rail from them, a 3ft piece. NFI, etc.

I'm using Ford Bosch style injectors, so I got a 14 MM
(.551 ") reamer for finishing the injector holes. 
Have not machined it yet, so I can't report on the
results.

Has anyone considered putting a piece of open cell
foam (like inside a fuel cell) or maybe a metal or
plastic mesh inside one of these rails? The idea being
to dampen the acoustic characteristics without
impeding the flow.

I'd favor a piece of coarse stainless mesh, rolled up
into a cylinder, and inserted into the passage. The
foam makes me uncomfortable for the long haul.

Anyone know the speed of sound in gasoline at 43 psi,
and 100 F? Maybe the resonant frequency of the chamber
can be calculated.

Of course, if you are committed to making your own
rail from scratch, good luck!

Carter Shore



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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  9 05:19:56 2001
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From: "Murphy, Ian" <Ian.Murphy@Arrows.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: MAP Sensor
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 13:17:43 -0000 
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MAP stands for Manifold Absolute Pressure, so substituting a gauge
(referenced to atmosphere) pressure is incorrect. MAP is often used to
calculate charge density and hence fuelling using thermodynamic / fluid
dynamics maths involving Ideal Gas laws.

Of course, if you include a Baro sensor when designing a system, you can
infer MAP from a gauge sensor.

Ian

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Mike Blakey [SMTP:mike.blakey@baesystems.com]
> Sent:	Friday, March 09, 2001 11:08 AM
> To:	DIY_EFI@lists.diy-efi.org; efi332@lists.diy-efi.org
> Subject:	MAP Sensor
> 
> My company has changed my e-mail address so I've resent this post...
> 
> I have made my own MAP sensor from a differential bridge sensor (-1 to 0
> bar). It 
> works fine but I'm unsure of the expected range on a manifold, so far I've
> only 
> managed to get down to -780 mbar. If this is about typical I can alter the
> gain and 
> span to get better resolution over the expected range.  My sensor also is 
> differential to atmospheric pressure, where as the OEM sensors do not seem
> to be, 
> is the correct?
> 
> 
> 
> ********************************************************************
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  9 05:47:28 2001
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From: "James Ballenger" <vtjballeng@yifan.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #525
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 08:47:39 -0500
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	Our team made our own from Electromotive Fuel rail stock
http://www.emi.cc/fuel_system.htm.  Which looks identical to the stuff from
Arizona Speed and Marine.  It was extremly easy to work with.  Just use a
drill bit of the right size for the injector holes and a npt tap on one side
for the fuel input and you are good to go.  We also hogged out some extra
material on the mill, but that is only necessary for the exteremely weight
conscious.  We don't have any noise problems, but we are not flowing much
either... and our engine is pretty noisy anyway.

James Ballenger

>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
>Behalf Of Carter Shore
>Sent: Friday, March 09, 2001 8:08 AM
>To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #525
>
>
>On Thu, 08 Mar 2001, Nigel Heron wrote:
>
>> Subject: fuel rail
>>
>> hi,
>>
>> i'm going to be making a custom fuel rail for my 16v
>> vw out of billet aluminum.
>> What is the appropriate internal volume of a fuel
>> rail? is there a basic guidline based on injector
>> size, fuel pressure, max rpm, etc.?
>>
>> thanks,
>> - -nigel.
>
>Nigel, listers,
>
>You can get fuel rail extrusion for $12/ft from
>Arizona Speed and Marine:
>
>http://www.azspeed-marine.com/products/fuelinj/injacc.html
>
>This rail is sized for V-8's, (approx 1/2" ID), so
>it's probably not too large. Of course, you may still
>have to deal with harmonics, etc., but at that price,
>you can afford to build a few and experiment.
>
>I bought my rail from them, a 3ft piece. NFI, etc.
>
>I'm using Ford Bosch style injectors, so I got a 14 MM
>(.551 ") reamer for finishing the injector holes.
>Have not machined it yet, so I can't report on the
>results.
>
>Has anyone considered putting a piece of open cell
>foam (like inside a fuel cell) or maybe a metal or
>plastic mesh inside one of these rails? The idea being
>to dampen the acoustic characteristics without
>impeding the flow.
>
>I'd favor a piece of coarse stainless mesh, rolled up
>into a cylinder, and inserted into the passage. The
>foam makes me uncomfortable for the long haul.
>
>Anyone know the speed of sound in gasoline at 43 psi,
>and 100 F? Maybe the resonant frequency of the chamber
>can be calculated.
>
>Of course, if you are committed to making your own
>rail from scratch, good luck!
>
>Carter Shore
>
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
>http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  9 05:51:27 2001
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Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 08:53:41 -0500 (EST)
From: Pat Ford <pford@qnx.com>
Subject: Re: fuel rail
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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 and the fuel sits around soaking up heat

Previously, you (Tony Bryant) wrote:
{ 
{ 
{ >
{ >i'm going to be making a custom fuel rail for my 16v vw out of billet
{ >aluminum.
{ >What is the appropriate internal volume of a fuel rail? is there a basic
{ >guidline based on injector size, fuel pressure, max rpm, etc.?
{ >
{ 
{ 
{ Big as practical. The only disadvantage in going "too big" is weight.
{ 
{ 
{ ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
{ To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
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{ 

--
Pat Ford                           email: pford@qnx.com
QNX Software Systems, Ltd.           WWW: http://www.qnx.com
(613) 591-0931      (voice)         mail: 175 Terence Matthews          
(613) 591-3579      (fax)                 Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  9 06:07:50 2001
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Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 06:07:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Josh Criswold <g_force_alt@yahoo.com>
Subject: OBD-II
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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Can anyone reccomend a tech article describing the
OBD-II standard?  I am an SAE member, so an SAE
article is good.

Anyone familiar with the Siemens system on the 3.2L
BMW M3s?

Josh

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Considered yes, done no,  just the tiniest of grit can hold an injector
open.  Something I'd rather not risk.  Even with the stainless, there is no
way that I know of that cut it perfectly.    If you can hear the injectors,
your exhuast system is too quiet, <g>...
Bruce


> Has anyone considered putting a piece of open cell
> foam (like inside a fuel cell) or maybe a metal or
> plastic mesh inside one of these rails? The idea being
> to dampen the acoustic characteristics without
> impeding the flow.

> I'd favor a piece of coarse stainless mesh, rolled up
> into a cylinder, and inserted into the passage. The
> foam makes me uncomfortable for the long haul.

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  9 08:29:52 2001
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From: "lance" <lmwolrab@prodigy.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Newbie...
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 08:29:56 -0800
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Agreed Buschur knows nothing of code.  Just a personalized place to start
looking for DSM info.  BTW nice link!

Lance

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Rob O
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2001 4:11 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Newbie...


Check out www.tmo.com, Buschur has no clue on disassembling code and
will tell you that in his Northern Ohio way

ROb_O

lance wrote:
>
> Rumor has it the DSM guys have completely disassembled their code and they
> have a guy who has written some interesting mods (2 stage rev limiter to
> build boost at the line, etc).  I'd contact Dave Buschur The4Bangr@aol.com
> and ask about DSMs.  He just recently joined the Toyota Supra Owner's
group
> and has been very open about his findings even though he is a well known
> competitor in Import Drag racing.  Good luck!
>
> Lance
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of steve ravet
> Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 10:19 AM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: Newbie...
>
> Chris, it seems like there's a ton of information for GM cars, somewhat
> less for Fords, and basically none for anything else.  So it might be
> hard to find out about your Eclipse.  But, you can look around at the
> gmecm page and learn a lot about GM EFI strategy.  Another great place
> is the archives of both diy-efi and gmecm.  Both archives can be
> downloaded from their respective WWW pages, and searched with a text
> editor or word processor.  I wouldn't try reading from end to end, but
> browse around in them and read stuff that looks interesting.  There
> isn't a good place to start, that I know of at least, other than read a
> lot and ask questions.  Good luck!
>
> --steve
>
> > Chris Remshaw wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >   I have read this digest off and on for the past two years, and I
> > have only begun to understand any of it.  I am a computer programmer,
> > but a more internet-based one, and I would love to get more into
> > programming ECU's.  Where is a good place to start (on the web, off
> > the web, etc.)?  I'm knowledgable on the basics of cars and have done
> > modifications to my own.  I have a '91 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Chris Remshaw
>
> --
> Steve Ravet
> steve.ravet@arm.com
> ARM,Inc.
> www.arm.com
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Subject: Rising rate fuel pressure regulator
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Scott Flanagan mentioned he was trying to map out a rising rate fuel =
pressure regulator.

I am also looking for a rising rate regulator that reacts to turbo =
boost.

All the turbo fuel pressure regulators I have seen, raise fuel pressure =
at a rate equal to the amount of boost.=20

I would like to find a fuel pressure regulator that gives something like =
2 : 1 to give around 75 / 90 psi at 20 psi boost.

The aim is to bypass the need to fit larger injectors when increasing =
the power output of the engine and also the standard injectors will =
allow the car to idle better.

I also want to fit a fuel pressure sensor linked into the ECU to keep an =
eye on fuel pressure.


Hugh=20

++44 1224 209 592 home

++44 7980 443 803 mobile

++44 1224 312 668 fax


hugh@sol.co.uk

=20


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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4134.600" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>Scott Flanagan mentioned he was =
trying to map out=20
a rising rate fuel pressure regulator.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>I am also looking for a rising rate =
regulator=20
that reacts to turbo boost.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>All the turbo fuel pressure =
regulators I have=20
seen, raise&nbsp;fuel pressure at a rate&nbsp;equal to the amount of =
boost.=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>I would like to find a fuel pressure=20
regulator&nbsp;that gives something like 2 : 1 to give around&nbsp;75 / =
90 psi=20
at 20 psi boost.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>The aim is to bypass the need to fit =
larger=20
injectors when increasing the power output of the engine and also the =
standard=20
injectors will allow the car to idle better.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>I also want to fit a fuel pressure =
sensor linked=20
into the ECU to keep an eye on fuel pressure.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>Hugh </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>++44 1224 209 592 home</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>++44 7980 443 803 mobile</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>++44 1224 312 668 fax</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>
<DIV><BR><A href=3D"mailto:hugh@sol.co.uk">hugh@sol.co.uk</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;<BR></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  9 09:25:40 2001
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From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
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References: <000901c0a813$dc59ede0$5ecdfea9@jrh> <021501c0a815$42827780$100ac9d8@brucescompute>
Subject: Re: circuit to use GM temperature sensors for voltage based data acquisition input?
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 09:38:00 -0500
Organization: Lingenfelter Performance Engineering
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I want to build a circuit to use the stock GM sensors in a standalone type
of application (not as part of the GM wiring harness/ECM). I have 5 volt, 10
volt, 12 volt and 13.8 volt power supplies already available in the data
acquisition system. I want as close to the full 10 volt range as possible
for the input into the data acquisition to improve reasolution and accuracy.
Yes, I could use 0 to1 volt but I'd rather not if I don't have to (the
display and transfer function is programmable so it doesn't even have to be
linear although it makes it much easier if it is).

Jason

>
> Just cause the Datalogging allows 0-10 doesn't mean you have to use it.
> the display maybe customizable (?<g>) to read just the 0-5 part anyway.
> Other then the air flow computation, the other stuff really isn't that
> critical.   And things like IAT sensors are rather slow to change anyway
> Bruce
>
> > Does anyone know what I need to do to build a circuit to be able to take
> > standard GM temperature sensors (IAT, ECT, oil temp.) and produce a 0 to
> 10
> > volt output for our data acquisition system. We currently have 12 vdc
and
> > 13.8 vdc power available although we could add some other DC power
supply
> if
> > needed.
> >
> > Sorry if this seems basic but that is what happens when you let
mechanical
> > engineers start working with electronics and electrical systems.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> >
> > Jason
> >
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  9 09:29:20 2001
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Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 11:28:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Rising rate fuel pressure regulator
From: "Josh Pullen" <joshpullen@onebox.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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I have an SX fuel pressure regulator and it is adjustable.  I had it
set at 2:1 at one point but adjusted it down to 1.5:1.

-- 
Josh Pullen
1994 HKS T04R Supra Turbo 
http://jmpvm.dyndns.org


---- "Hugh" <hugh@sol.co.uk> wrote:
> Scott Flanagan mentioned he was trying to map out a rising rate fuel
> pressure regulator.
> 
> I am also looking for a rising rate regulator that reacts to turbo
> boost.
> 
> All the turbo fuel pressure regulators I have seen, raise fuel pressure
> at a rate equal to the amount of boost. 
> 
> I would like to find a fuel pressure regulator that gives something
> like 2 : 1 to give around 75 / 90 psi at 20 psi boost.
> 
> The aim is to bypass the need to fit larger injectors when increasing
> the power output of the engine and also the standard injectors will
> allow the car to idle better.
> 
> I also want to fit a fuel pressure sensor linked into the ECU to keep
> an eye on fuel pressure.
> 
> 
> Hugh 
> 
> ++44 1224 209 592 home
> 
> ++44 7980 443 803 mobile
> 
> ++44 1224 312 668 fax
> 
> 
> hugh@sol.co.uk
> 
>  
> 
> 

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From: "Hugh" <hugh@sol.co.uk>
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References: <20010309130801.1410.qmail@web906.mail.yahoo.com> <00c201c0a8a4$c203b660$180ac9d8@brucescompute>
Subject: AUTRONIC  SM2    ECU.
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 17:44:04 -0000
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Has anyone experience of the Autronic ECU =
http://www.turbofast.com.au/autronic/sm2ecu.html

It seems to be very comprehensive in it's capabilities and similar to =
Motec, but are there any technical things like accuracy of spark =
delivery, fuel delivery, anything else? that can be used to judge this =
system against others.

Hugh=20

++44 1224 209 592 home

++44 7980 443 803 mobile

++44 1224 312 668 fax


hugh@sol.co.uk


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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>Has anyone experience of&nbsp;the =
Autronic ECU <A=20
href=3D"http://www.turbofast.com.au/autronic/sm2ecu.html">http://www.turb=
ofast.com.au/autronic/sm2ecu.html</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>It seems to be very comprehensive in =
it's=20
capabilities and similar to Motec, but are there any technical things =
like=20
accuracy of spark delivery, fuel delivery,&nbsp;anything else?&nbsp;that =
can be=20
used to judge this&nbsp;system against others.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>Hugh </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>++44 1224 209 592 home</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>++44 7980 443 803 mobile</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>++44 1224 312 668 fax</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>
<DIV><BR><A href=3D"mailto:hugh@sol.co.uk">hugh@sol.co.uk</A></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  9 11:13:46 2001
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From: "Tom" <Le_Tette@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #525
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 14:13:43 -0500
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Todd Day has the code deciphered, not Dave Beer-nuts :-) Most of his changes
are rev-limiter and convenience items, not performance related though. email
is today@dsm.org or read about the ecu changes at www.tmo.com

Have fun,
-tom

> Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 21:24:11 -0800
> From: "lance" <lmwolrab@prodigy.net>
> Subject: RE: Newbie...
>
> Rumor has it the DSM guys have completely disassembled their code and they
> have a guy who has written some interesting mods (2 stage rev limiter to
> build boost at the line, etc).  I'd contact Dave Buschur The4Bangr@aol.com
> and ask about DSMs.  He just recently joined the Toyota Supra Owner's
group
> and has been very open about his findings even though he is a well known
> competitor in Import Drag racing.  Good luck!
>
> Lance
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of steve ravet
> Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 10:19 AM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: Newbie...
>
>
> Chris, it seems like there's a ton of information for GM cars, somewhat
> less for Fords, and basically none for anything else.  So it might be
> hard to find out about your Eclipse.  But, you can look around at the
> gmecm page and learn a lot about GM EFI strategy.  Another great place
> is the archives of both diy-efi and gmecm.  Both archives can be
> downloaded from their respective WWW pages, and searched with a text
> editor or word processor.  I wouldn't try reading from end to end, but
> browse around in them and read stuff that looks interesting.  There
> isn't a good place to start, that I know of at least, other than read a
> lot and ask questions.  Good luck!
>
> - --steve
>
> > Chris Remshaw wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> >   I have read this digest off and on for the past two years, and I
> > have only begun to understand any of it.  I am a computer programmer,
> > but a more internet-based one, and I would love to get more into
> > programming ECU's.  Where is a good place to start (on the web, off
> > the web, etc.)?  I'm knowledgable on the basics of cars and have done
> > modifications to my own.  I have a '91 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Chris Remshaw

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  9 11:31:26 2001
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Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 11:31:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Beaubien <mattbeaubien@yahoo.com>
Subject: Pow wow
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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Is there any more information on the EFI pow-wow next
weekend?  I'm curious who will be there with what toys
etc., and an approximate schedule.

Thanks,

Matt.

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Doc has it all written down in a hermidically sealed Mayo jar, and won't
even let me see it.   I did see him revising it cause of some now scheduling
problems from the latest snow storm.
There is no formal scheduling of events, it's what folks what to talk about,
and just whatever they want to bring to show and tell.
Bruce



> Is there any more information on the EFI pow-wow next
> weekend?  I'm curious who will be there with what toys
> etc., and an approximate schedule.
> Thanks,
> Matt.

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  9 13:21:22 2001
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Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 16:16:30 -0500
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: Bob Tom <tigers@bserv.com>
Subject: Re: OBD-II
In-Reply-To: <20010309140744.469.qmail@web1006.mail.yahoo.com>
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At 06:07 AM 3/9/01 -0800, you wrote:
>Can anyone reccomend a tech article describing the
>OBD-II standard?  I am an SAE member, so an SAE
>article is good.  <snip>  Josh

Give  http://www.obdii.com/    a try.  Explore around their site
and then try their LINK listing.

Bob Tom     Burlington, Ont., Canada
'97 Dakota Sport, 4x2, CC, Flame red, 5.2L, auto., 3.92SG

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  9 15:07:13 2001
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Subject: Re: circuit to use GM temperature sensors for voltage based data acquisition input?
References: <000901c0a813$dc59ede0$5ecdfea9@jrh> <021501c0a815$42827780$100ac9d8@brucescompute> <000201c0a8be$85789a20$5ecdfea9@jrh>
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Jason,

The coolant & iat/mat sensors are thermistors. Just use a pullup to
10 volts with the other end grounded. GM uses both a 1K & 384
ohm pullup. The ecm will change it for greater or less resolution.

The tps is a variable resistor, just feed it the 10v and ground the other end.
The wiper goes to the data-acq.

The map is a 5v device, period. Give it 5v and it will be happy. 0 - 5v out.

You can check the ecm schematics on Ludis's site for additional info.

BobR.

Jason R. Haines wrote:

> I want to build a circuit to use the stock GM sensors in a standalone type
> of application (not as part of the GM wiring harness/ECM). I have 5 volt, 10
> volt, 12 volt and 13.8 volt power supplies already available in the data
> acquisition system. I want as close to the full 10 volt range as possible
> for the input into the data acquisition to improve reasolution and accuracy.
> Yes, I could use 0 to1 volt but I'd rather not if I don't have to (the
> display and transfer function is programmable so it doesn't even have to be
> linear although it makes it much easier if it is).
>
> Jason
>

<snip>


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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  9 15:27:46 2001
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@home.com>
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Subject: Re: Rising rate fuel pressure regulator
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 18:28:22 -0800
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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For non 1:1 gain rates you might want to ask around both www.cartech.com =
and www.powertrain.net for a couple of good examples of what's possible. =
 Be wary of the ultimate injector operating pressures for your =
particular injectors & drivers.  Also, be wary of your deliverable =
pumping volume at elevated pressures.  Very high pressure AND flow are =
often hard to simultaneously realize without specific forethought.

Walt.




  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Hugh=20
  To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org=20
  Cc: Scott Flanagan=20
  Sent: Friday, March 09, 2001 8:36 AM
  Subject: Rising rate fuel pressure regulator


  Scott Flanagan mentioned he was trying to map out a rising rate fuel =
pressure regulator.

  I am also looking for a rising rate regulator that reacts to turbo =
boost.

  All the turbo fuel pressure regulators I have seen, raise fuel =
pressure at a rate equal to the amount of boost.=20

  I would like to find a fuel pressure regulator that gives something =
like 2 : 1 to give around 75 / 90 psi at 20 psi boost.

  The aim is to bypass the need to fit larger injectors when increasing =
the power output of the engine and also the standard injectors will =
allow the car to idle better.

  I also want to fit a fuel pressure sensor linked into the ECU to keep =
an eye on fuel pressure.


  Hugh=20

  ++44 1224 209 592 home

  ++44 7980 443 803 mobile

  ++44 1224 312 668 fax


  hugh@sol.co.uk




------=_NextPart_000_0059_01C0A8C6.B8C0ADC0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4611.1300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>For non 1:1 gain rates you might want to ask =
around&nbsp;both=20
<A href=3D"http://www.cartech.com">www.cartech.com</A> and <A=20
href=3D"http://www.powertrain.net">www.powertrain.net</A> for a couple =
of good=20
examples of what's possible.&nbsp; Be wary of the ultimate injector =
operating=20
pressures for your particular injectors &amp; drivers.&nbsp; Also, be =
wary of=20
your deliverable pumping volume at elevated pressures.&nbsp; Very high =
pressure=20
AND flow are often hard to simultaneously realize without specific=20
forethought.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Walt.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dhugh@sol.co.uk href=3D"mailto:hugh@sol.co.uk">Hugh</A> =
</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Ddiy_efi@diy-efi.org=20
  href=3D"mailto:diy_efi@diy-efi.org">diy_efi@diy-efi.org</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Cc:</B> <A =
title=3Dgte861v@prism.gatech.edu=20
  href=3D"mailto:gte861v@prism.gatech.edu">Scott Flanagan</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, March 09, 2001 =
8:36=20
AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Rising rate fuel =
pressure=20
  regulator</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>Scott Flanagan mentioned he was =
trying to map=20
  out a rising rate fuel pressure regulator.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>I am also looking for a rising rate =
regulator=20
  that reacts to turbo boost.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>All the turbo fuel pressure =
regulators I have=20
  seen, raise&nbsp;fuel pressure at a rate&nbsp;equal to the amount of =
boost.=20
  </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>I would like to find a fuel =
pressure=20
  regulator&nbsp;that gives something like 2 : 1 to give around&nbsp;75 =
/ 90 psi=20
  at 20 psi boost.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>The aim is to bypass the need to =
fit larger=20
  injectors when increasing the power output of the engine and also the =
standard=20
  injectors will allow the car to idle better.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>I also want to fit a fuel pressure =
sensor=20
  linked into the ECU to keep an eye on fuel pressure.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>Hugh </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>++44 1224 209 592 home</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>++44 7980 443 803 =
mobile</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>++44 1224 312 668 fax</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>
  <DIV><BR><A href=3D"mailto:hugh@sol.co.uk">hugh@sol.co.uk</A></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0059_01C0A8C6.B8C0ADC0--

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  9 15:43:10 2001
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <LPBBLCGLJOFBHDFECHGNGEIHCOAA.InTech@writeme.com>
Subject: Re: fuel rail
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 18:43:59 -0800
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The desired I.D. of the injector rails is as much a function of the gross
recirculating flow rate (ie: the max bypassed flow rate, when the injectors
are at low BPW's) of the entire pumping circuit, as it is the peak draw of X
number of injectors for a given rail.  Surges and pulsations are best
emeliorated with rail mounted snubbers or dampners (Bosch have some nice
ones).  As long as your rail I.D. is about 30-50% larger than the I.D. of
the lines feeding it, then you should be golden.  The necessity of excess
hydraulic rail volume is only an issue when feeding a very long rail, that
in turnfeeds a number of synchronously batch fired injectors.  IMO

Walt.




> Like someone else mentioned here earlier, there is no sure fire way to
know
> the correct inside diameter,,,lot's of variables.... if you are making
your
> own use as large as you can and you might even think about a fuel dampener
> as well.  Datalogging the pressure in the rail under conditions is the
only
> way to know if you have a harmonic problem. hth's
> -Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of Seth
> Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 8:31 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: fuel rail
>
>
> http://www.rossmachine.com/racing/
>
> these guys make custom 16v VW fuel rails from billet. you might want to
> see what they have done.
>
> -Seth
>
> Nigel Heron wrote:
> >
> > hi,
> >
> > i'm going to be making a custom fuel rail for my 16v vw out of billet
> > aluminum.
> > What is the appropriate internal volume of a fuel rail? is there a basic
> > guidline based on injector size, fuel pressure, max rpm, etc.?
> >
> > thanks,
> > -nigel.
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  9 19:56:47 2001
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Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 22:57:53 -0500
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Subject: Re: Rising rate fuel pressure regulator
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Cartech makes a variable rate of gain fuel pressure regulator
where one can set the 'no-boost' pressure, and then set a
bleed screw to how much the regulator
increases fuel pressure per psi of boost.
<http://www.cartech.net>

                                                        joeo


Josh Pullen wrote:

> I have an SX fuel pressure regulator and it is adjustable.  I had it
> set at 2:1 at one point but adjusted it down to 1.5:1.
>
> --
> Josh Pullen
> 1994 HKS T04R Supra Turbo
> http://jmpvm.dyndns.org
>
> ---- "Hugh" <hugh@sol.co.uk> wrote:
> > Scott Flanagan mentioned he was trying to map out a rising rate fuel
> > pressure regulator.
> >
> > I am also looking for a rising rate regulator that reacts to turbo
> > boost.
> >
> > All the turbo fuel pressure regulators I have seen, raise fuel pressure
> > at a rate equal to the amount of boost.
> >
> > I would like to find a fuel pressure regulator that gives something
> > like 2 : 1 to give around 75 / 90 psi at 20 psi boost.
> >
> > The aim is to bypass the need to fit larger injectors when increasing
> > the power output of the engine and also the standard injectors will
> > allow the car to idle better.
> >
> > I also want to fit a fuel pressure sensor linked into the ECU to keep
> > an eye on fuel pressure.
> >

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Subject: Re: fuel rail
In-Reply-To: <Voyager.010309085341.19907A@node141.ott.qnx.com> from Pat Ford
 at "Mar 9, 2001 08:53:41 am"
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Pat Ford tapped away at the keyboard with:

> Previously, you (Tony Bryant) wrote:
> { >i'm going to be making a custom fuel rail for my 16v vw out of billet
> { >aluminum.
> { >What is the appropriate internal volume of a fuel rail? is there a basic
> { >guidline based on injector size, fuel pressure, max rpm, etc.?
> { >
> { 
> { 
> { Big as practical. The only disadvantage in going "too big" is weight.

>  and the fuel sits around soaking up heat

There will be more fuel available to soak up the heat. And a larger
surface area will absorb more heat.

However, most fuel rails I've seen (all Bosch-based) are set up to
flush through their entire length, with feed on one end and the
pressure regulator that dumps the return flow, at the other.

The long fuel lines and the tank (as well as the fuel in it) act as
a heat sink.

[BTW: Am I the only one now getting 2 to 4 copies of every article
_and_ digest?]

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Mar  9 22:20:41 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Rising rate fuel pressure regulator
Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 22:20:59 -0800
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I have been looking into a blower for my car & most of the mfg's suggest a
FMU (Fuel Management Unit)  when I asked specifically how it worked they
said that it is a device that goes in the return line off of your fuel rail.
as Manifold pressure goes up it restricts more.  sounds to me like a Back
Pressure regulator that has the sense line going somewhere other than the
input side.  most of them are adjustable & the better ones are apparently
pretty linear.  this might be an accurate way to do what you are trying to
do.  I talked with techs @ Paxton, ATI, & Vortech & they all have the "same"
thing.  there are a ton of them on the fox bodied rustangs here in Southern
California & I guess they serve their purpose.  I would be willing to be
that a bunch of the turbo guys have them as well.

Bob Wooten


http://www.procharger.com , http://www.paxtonauto.com/ ,
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/welcome/
  -----Original Message-----
  From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Hugh
  Sent: Friday, March 09, 2001 8:37 AM
  To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
  Cc: Scott Flanagan
  Subject: Rising rate fuel pressure regulator


  Scott Flanagan mentioned he was trying to map out a rising rate fuel
pressure regulator.

  I am also looking for a rising rate regulator that reacts to turbo boost.

  All the turbo fuel pressure regulators I have seen, raise fuel pressure at
a rate equal to the amount of boost.

  I would like to find a fuel pressure regulator that gives something like 2
: 1 to give around 75 / 90 psi at 20 psi boost.

  The aim is to bypass the need to fit larger injectors when increasing the
power output of the engine and also the standard injectors will allow the
car to idle better.

  I also want to fit a fuel pressure sensor linked into the ECU to keep an
eye on fuel pressure.


  Hugh

  ++44 1224 209 592 home

  ++44 7980 443 803 mobile

  ++44 1224 312 668 fax


  hugh@sol.co.uk




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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D370361406-10032001>I have=20
been looking into a blower for my car &amp; most of the mfg's suggest a =
FMU=20
(Fuel Management Unit)&nbsp; when I asked specifically how it worked =
they said=20
that it is a device that goes in the return line off of your fuel =
rail.&nbsp; as=20
Manifold pressure goes up it restricts more.&nbsp; sounds to me like a =
Back=20
Pressure regulator that has the sense line going somewhere other than =
the input=20
side.&nbsp; most of them are adjustable &amp; the better ones are =
apparently=20
pretty linear.&nbsp; this might be an accurate way to do what you are =
trying to=20
do.&nbsp; I talked with techs @ Paxton, ATI, &amp; Vortech &amp; they =
all have=20
the "same" thing.&nbsp; there are a ton of them on the fox bodied =
rustangs here=20
in Southern California &amp; I guess they serve their purpose.&nbsp; I =
would be=20
willing to be that a bunch of the turbo guys have them as well.&nbsp;=20
</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D370361406-10032001></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D370361406-10032001>Bob=20
Wooten</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D370361406-10032001></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D370361406-10032001></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D370361406-10032001><A=20
href=3D"http://www.procharger.com">http://www.procharger.com</A> , <A=20
href=3D"http://www.paxtonauto.com/">http://www.paxtonauto.com/</A>&nbsp;,=
 <A=20
href=3D"http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/welcome/">http://www.vortechs=
uperchargers.com/welcome/</A></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV align=3Dleft class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
  size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org=20
  [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]<B>On Behalf Of =
</B>Hugh<BR><B>Sent:</B>=20
  Friday, March 09, 2001 8:37 AM<BR><B>To:</B> =
diy_efi@diy-efi.org<BR><B>Cc:</B>=20
  Scott Flanagan<BR><B>Subject:</B> Rising rate fuel pressure=20
  regulator<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>Scott Flanagan mentioned he was =
trying to map=20
  out a rising rate fuel pressure regulator.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>I am also looking for a rising rate =
regulator=20
  that reacts to turbo boost.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>All the turbo fuel pressure =
regulators I have=20
  seen, raise&nbsp;fuel pressure at a rate&nbsp;equal to the amount of =
boost.=20
  </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>I would like to find a fuel =
pressure=20
  regulator&nbsp;that gives something like 2 : 1 to give around&nbsp;75 =
/ 90 psi=20
  at 20 psi boost.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>The aim is to bypass the need to =
fit larger=20
  injectors when increasing the power output of the engine and also the =
standard=20
  injectors will allow the car to idle better.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>I also want to fit a fuel pressure =
sensor=20
  linked into the ECU to keep an eye on fuel pressure.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>Hugh </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>++44 1224 209 592 home</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>++44 7980 443 803 =
mobile</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>++44 1224 312 668 fax</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>
  <DIV><BR><A href=3D"mailto:hugh@sol.co.uk">hugh@sol.co.uk</A></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Mar 10 02:01:07 2001
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From: "Ade + Lamb Chop" <adrian.law@btinternet.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 10:00:31 -0000
Subject: Fuel systems
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Hi,

I am in the process of putting a honda ZC engine in my mini. The 
mini is carbureted with a mechanical fuel pump on the engine.

The honda has a high pressure pump (35-50psi depending on year 
of car with the vac hose disconnected from the regulator) in or nr 
the tank. This goes up to the fuel fuel rail which has a regulator on 
it.. the reg dumps excess fuel back to the tank to maintain the 
pressure.

I am just wondering the best way to do the fuel system. I don't 
really fancy having 50psi fuel lines floating around the length of the 
car. 

Can I have a low pressure pump nr the tank then a high pressure 
pump in the engine bay? What should I do with the return line? can 
I run this to the inlet of the high pressure pump or do I need to run 
it back to the top of the tank?

Ade

ICQ. 75653589
www.adesite.co.uk
ade.honda-mini.co.uk
www.mini-list.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Mar 10 02:23:20 2001
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From: Bernd Felsche <bernie@innovative.iinet.net.au>
Message-Id: <200103101022.SAA31941@flywheel.innovative.iinet.net.au>
Subject: Re: Fuel systems
In-Reply-To: <3AA9FB3F.1522.38BDBA@localhost> from Ade + Lamb Chop at "Mar 10,
 2001 10:00:31 am"
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 18:22:13 +0800 (WST)
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Ade + Lamb Chop tapped away at the keyboard with:

> I am in the process of putting a honda ZC engine in my mini. The 
> mini is carbureted with a mechanical fuel pump on the engine.

> The honda has a high pressure pump (35-50psi depending on year of
> car with the vac hose disconnected from the regulator) in or nr
> the tank. This goes up to the fuel fuel rail which has a regulator
> on it.. the reg dumps excess fuel back to the tank to maintain the
> pressure.

> I am just wondering the best way to do the fuel system. I don't
> really fancy having 50psi fuel lines floating around the length of
> the car. 

Well, staple them down. :-) Also, I didn't realize that a Mini had
"length". >:-)

It really isn't a problem if the fuel cutoff on engine stall works
correctly. You can even add in a pressure switch at the pump so that
if the outlet pressure of the fuel pump goes below a pre-determined
level, that the pump cuts out. That would only be enabled after the
engine has been running, of course!

Just take care that the fuel lines aren't located where they're
vulmerable to being hit by debris, torn in a crash or toasted by
engine/exhaust. Many cars use polymer fuel lines because these are
more resistant to damage; they won't fracture or crack as easily.

> Can I have a low pressure pump nr the tank then a high pressure 
> pump in the engine bay? What should I do with the return line? can 
> I run this to the inlet of the high pressure pump or do I need to run 
> it back to the top of the tank?

You want another fuel tank in the car?

The return line should go into the tank. As discussed earlier, the
fuel that's gone through the rail has been heated by the engine and
you're better off drawing cooler fuel from the tank, least of all
because it's more dense.

-- 
 /"\  Bernd Felsche - Innovative Reckoning, Perth, Western Australia
 \ /      ASCII ribbon campaign | I'm a .signature virus!       |
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Mar 10 04:26:30 2001
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I have one last question about EGOR that I hope someone can
answer. There is a very small current that needs to be supplied
to the Vs cell. This is a constant current and of a small value.

It is referred to as the Icp current.

Does anyone know what the value of this current should be?

Looking at the NTK_UEGO.PDF file that Stewart uploaded
to incoming, it appears that it should be 15uA. The problem
is that the pdf is hard to read.

Can anyone verify this value?

Thanks,

BobR.


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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Mar 10 05:47:52 2001
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To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <MABBLIHBGGBFGJCJJMLDOEFJCAAA.r71chevy@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Rising rate fuel pressure regulator
Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 08:48:39 -0500
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Most fmu's are not linear in fuel delivery and can cause significant =
fuel curve deviation, usually extremely rich. They are included in the =
blower, turbo kits as a cheap, effective way to keep the customer from =
calling and complaining that the engine blew up on the test drive. Corky =
Bell's Super FMU is more adjustable than about any of the others that I =
have seen from around the world. It usually takes more work to get an =
FMU to deliver an acceptable fuel curve than  it does to dial in the =
correct curve with injectors large enough to do the job correctly. =
However, there are a lot of FMU's in use. And until the owners dyno and =
check the fuel air ratio they are happy, cause it doesn't blow up when =
they mash it. But they work for the people who don't have access to do =
it any different. Makes blower and turbo kits saleable where otherwise =
the libality issues would prevent their sale except to the select few. =
Pick your poison. later, Mark Riley
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Bob Wooten=20
  To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org=20
  Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 1:20 AM
  Subject: RE: Rising rate fuel pressure regulator


  I have been looking into a blower for my car & most of the mfg's =
suggest a FMU (Fuel Management Unit)  when I asked specifically how it =
worked they said that it is a device that goes in the return line off of =
your fuel rail.  as Manifold pressure goes up it restricts more.  sounds =
to me like a Back Pressure regulator that has the sense line going =
somewhere other than the input side.  most of them are adjustable & the =
better ones are apparently pretty linear.  this might be an accurate way =
to do what you are trying to do.  I talked with techs @ Paxton, ATI, & =
Vortech & they all have the "same" thing.  there are a ton of them on =
the fox bodied rustangs here in Southern California & I guess they serve =
their purpose.  I would be willing to be that a bunch of the turbo guys =
have them as well. =20

  Bob Wooten


  http://www.procharger.com , http://www.paxtonauto.com/ , =
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/welcome/
    -----Original Message-----
    From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On =
Behalf Of Hugh
    Sent: Friday, March 09, 2001 8:37 AM
    To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
    Cc: Scott Flanagan
    Subject: Rising rate fuel pressure regulator


    Scott Flanagan mentioned he was trying to map out a rising rate fuel =
pressure regulator.

    I am also looking for a rising rate regulator that reacts to turbo =
boost.

    All the turbo fuel pressure regulators I have seen, raise fuel =
pressure at a rate equal to the amount of boost.=20

    I would like to find a fuel pressure regulator that gives something =
like 2 : 1 to give around 75 / 90 psi at 20 psi boost.

    The aim is to bypass the need to fit larger injectors when =
increasing the power output of the engine and also the standard =
injectors will allow the car to idle better.

    I also want to fit a fuel pressure sensor linked into the ECU to =
keep an eye on fuel pressure.


    Hugh=20

    ++44 1224 209 592 home

    ++44 7980 443 803 mobile

    ++44 1224 312 668 fax


    hugh@sol.co.uk


    =20

------=_NextPart_000_005D_01C0A93E.E74FB140
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4611.1300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Most fmu's are not linear in fuel =
delivery and can=20
cause significant fuel curve deviation, usually extremely rich. They are =

included in the blower, turbo&nbsp;kits as a cheap, effective way to =
keep the=20
customer from&nbsp;calling and complaining that the engine blew up on =
the test=20
drive. Corky Bell's Super FMU is more adjustable than about any of the =
others=20
that I have seen from around the world. It usually takes more work to =
get an FMU=20
to deliver an acceptable fuel curve&nbsp;than &nbsp;it does to dial in =
the=20
correct curve with injectors large enough to do the job correctly. =
However,=20
there are a lot of FMU's in use. And until the owners dyno and check the =
fuel=20
air ratio they are happy, cause it doesn't blow up when they mash =
it.&nbsp;But=20
they work for the people who don't have access to do it any different. =
Makes=20
blower and turbo kits saleable where otherwise the libality issues would =
prevent=20
their sale except to the select few. Pick your poison. later, Mark=20
Riley</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dr71chevy@earthlink.net =
href=3D"mailto:r71chevy@earthlink.net">Bob=20
  Wooten</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Ddiy_efi@diy-efi.org=20
  href=3D"mailto:diy_efi@diy-efi.org">diy_efi@diy-efi.org</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, March 10, 2001 =
1:20=20
  AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: Rising rate fuel =
pressure=20
  regulator</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D370361406-10032001>I=20
  have been looking into a blower for my car &amp; most of the mfg's =
suggest a=20
  FMU (Fuel Management Unit)&nbsp; when I asked specifically how it =
worked they=20
  said that it is a device that goes in the return line off of your fuel =

  rail.&nbsp; as Manifold pressure goes up it restricts more.&nbsp; =
sounds to me=20
  like a Back Pressure regulator that has the sense line going somewhere =
other=20
  than the input side.&nbsp; most of them are adjustable &amp; the =
better ones=20
  are apparently pretty linear.&nbsp; this might be an accurate way to =
do what=20
  you are trying to do.&nbsp; I talked with techs @ Paxton, ATI, &amp; =
Vortech=20
  &amp; they all have the "same" thing.&nbsp; there are a ton of them on =
the fox=20
  bodied rustangs here in Southern California &amp; I guess they serve =
their=20
  purpose.&nbsp; I would be willing to be that a bunch of the turbo guys =
have=20
  them as well.&nbsp; </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2><SPAN=20
  class=3D370361406-10032001></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D370361406-10032001>Bob=20
  Wooten</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2><SPAN=20
  class=3D370361406-10032001></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2><SPAN=20
  class=3D370361406-10032001></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial color=3D#0000ff size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D370361406-10032001><A=20
  href=3D"http://www.procharger.com">http://www.procharger.com</A> , <A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.paxtonauto.com/">http://www.paxtonauto.com/</A>&nbsp;,=
 <A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/welcome/">http://www.vortechs=
uperchargers.com/welcome/</A></SPAN></FONT></DIV>
  <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
    <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
    size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org=20
    [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]<B>On Behalf Of =
</B>Hugh<BR><B>Sent:</B>=20
    Friday, March 09, 2001 8:37 AM<BR><B>To:</B>=20
    diy_efi@diy-efi.org<BR><B>Cc:</B> Scott Flanagan<BR><B>Subject:</B> =
Rising=20
    rate fuel pressure regulator<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>Scott Flanagan mentioned he was =
trying to map=20
    out a rising rate fuel pressure regulator.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>I am also looking for a rising =
rate regulator=20
    that reacts to turbo boost.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>All the turbo fuel pressure =
regulators I have=20
    seen, raise&nbsp;fuel pressure at a rate&nbsp;equal to the amount of =
boost.=20
    </FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>I would like to find a fuel =
pressure=20
    regulator&nbsp;that gives something like 2 : 1 to give =
around&nbsp;75 / 90=20
    psi at 20 psi boost.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>The aim is to bypass the need to =
fit larger=20
    injectors when increasing the power output of the engine and also =
the=20
    standard injectors will allow the car to idle better.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>I also want to fit a fuel =
pressure sensor=20
    linked into the ECU to keep an eye on fuel pressure.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>Hugh </FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>++44 1224 209 592 =
home</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>++44 7980 443 803 =
mobile</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>++44 1224 312 668 =
fax</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV><FONT face=3DVerdana size=3D2>
    <DIV><BR><A href=3D"mailto:hugh@sol.co.uk">hugh@sol.co.uk</A></DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><BR></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Mar 10 08:02:07 2001
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> It seems to be very comprehensive in it's capabilities and similar to =
> Motec, but are there any technical things like accuracy of spark =
> delivery, fuel delivery, anything else? that can be used to judge this =
> system against others.

I don't know the exact pulse width resolution, but I'm sure Ray Hall can
give you the specs. I use the SMC, similar to the SM2, but missing a
couple inputs and outputs for traction control, idle air, and some other
niceties.

It has no problem controlling large injectors (96 lb/hr) at idle. I'm
able to make small corrections in fuel delivery. Ignition is similarly
accurate. I understand they're also coming out with a knock sensing unit
that will interface with their ECU, and do the usual individual spark
and fuel adjustment. I believe it will also reduce the turbo boost, if
necessary.

- Clay
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DIY_EFI Digest          Sunday, March 4 2001          Volume 05 : Number 518



In this issue:

	Re: new Honda NTK sensor price
	Re: HV DC ignition (was RE: CDI ...)
	Hello... and into to my KE-Jet project
	Re: HV DC ignition (was RE: CDI ...)
	Problems with Zytec equiped Mazda Rally car.
	Re: Hello... and into to my KE-Jet project
	Re: Problems with Zytec equiped Mazda Rally car.
	Re: Hello... and into to my KE-Jet project
	Cal Map Software for Accel DFI
	RE: Cal Map Software for Accel DFI

See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 08:37:23 -0500
From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
Subject: Re: new Honda NTK sensor price

Sorry, sometimes I forget the international scope of this mailing list (you
would think the Spanish, French and German junk mail I now get would remind
me 8-) ). Yes, I was talking US dollars.

BTW - thanks for the information on trying Canadian Honda dealers.

Jason

> > I thought some people might be interested to know that I called my local
> > Honda dealer to get a price and availability quote on the Honda NTK
> sensor.
> > The price has gone up even higher. They quoted me a list price of
$296.85.
> > Jason
>
> I am safe to assume that this is a 'merican price?  The Canadian Honda
list
> price for the 36531-P07-003 is $213.57, which I wholesale for $181.53 Cdn.
> That works out to about $120 US.  Just start ordering them from a Canadian
> dealer.  These price differences are quite common in fact and go either
way.
> If you are looking for a Honda part and the price seems out of wack, try
> across the border.  Oh yah, I also checked availability and Honda Can has
> about 40 of these in stock.
>
> Chris "Mighty Mouse" Capowski
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --
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>
>

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 11:42:55 -0800
From: "Andrew R. Ghali" <andrewg@16paws.com>
Subject: Re: HV DC ignition (was RE: CDI ...)

Let me throw my 2 cents in here for what it's worth: the problem with DC is
turning it on & off.  Generally, a CDI uses an SCR (silicon controlled
rectifier) which works like this: when there is DC across it, it is off
and will remain off until a trigger is applied to the gate.  Once this
happens, the SCR will remain switched on with a low impedence until the
voltage across it goes to 0 (i.e. a zero crossing).  This is what the
capacitor does for you - it discharges through the coil primary until it's
vlotage drops to zero, when the SCR shuts off (the zero crossing is actually
due to th LC tank formed by the cap and coil).  SCR's are used because they
dissipate low power, require lower drive current, are small and cheap.  If
you tried to switch HV DC directly to the coil, you'd have to use industrial
switching transistors rated for at least 600V, with a substantial HV diode
behind it so the back EMF from the coil (at switch off) doesn't instantly
destroy the transistor.  These devices are larger, more expensive, disappate
more power and require more drive than an SCR.  At least, this is my under-
standing of the issue.

Here's a reference on SCR's: http://www.americanmicrosemi.com/tutorials/scr.htm

Hope that helps a little bit.

Andrew

On Fri, 2 Mar 2001 07:41:24 -0800 (PST), Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com> wrote:
>...
>Sure, I'd drive the coil with a push-pull DC switching
>circuit, an H bridge driver. There are already power
>IC's to do this, for controlling DC motors and such.
>
>You would need to calculate the frequency of the
>pulses (and perhaps still use one of those pesky
>capacitors) to match the coil and configuration. The
>output of the coil would be a sinusoid (approximately)
>of constant peak voltage, though it would be clipped
>to the arc over voltage of the plug at each firing.
>
>The number of pulses delivered would be controlled by
>the ECU 'gating' signal.
>
>There would still be some energy left in the system at
>gate OFF time, so you might need to absorb that
>somehow. But it might be OK to just let it dissipate
>naturally, or perhaps short the primary through a
>shunt resistor.
>
>One circuit for each spark plug. Sounds like a CNP
>module.(!?)
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 15:40:11 -0800
From: "Shad Laws" <shad@aircooled.net>
Subject: Hello... and into to my KE-Jet project

Hello-

I just joined DIY-EFI and hope I'll be able to contribute some info as well
as draw
some from you guys :-)

Here's my project: a 1971 VW Karmann Ghia, running a modified,
upright-cooling-converted 1973 Porsche 914 2.0L engine with air conditioning
that I built.

For ignition control, I'm currently using a fully-adjustable dual-advance
distributor (which isn't all that bad...), made from mixing and matching
parts from old VW Bosch distributors (see March-May 2001 "VW Trends" to see
how... :-).  Of course, it operates without points and with a CDI box, so
it's pretty nice.  I don't really feel a great need to toy with this...

However, it also has a "well-tuned" pair of Weber 40IDFs w/ 32mm venturis.
"Well-tuned" is a very relative term - they are still carburetors and I
would like to see them go!  Taking cross-country trips with bags of spare
jets for the Rockies is neat in that esoteric sort of way, but it gets old.

I purchased the entire intake system from a 1984 Mercedes 190E 4-cylinder
2.3L.  It is a KE-Jetronic system, which is essentially a purely mechanical
fuel injection system with an electromagnetic control valve to alter the
mixture from ideal as needed.  This (and something to the fuel pump in the
way of a relay or something of course) is the only output I want from the
electronics system.  I do plan to design a setup so I can change the current
manually in the event of a failure, because around 10mA of current, a pot to
adjust it, and a fuel mixture LED strip (which I already have) should do the
trick nicely.

Anyway, I already have the design for the non-electronic part of the system,
complete with tuned runners and plenum to take advantage of resonance
induction effects and the stock 2 3/8" Mercedes throttle body.  That should
be
more than adequate...

Here's the catch: the KE-Jetronic ECU likes water temperature as an input
and wants my car to run mostly stochiometric.  The aircooled engine wants to
be rich under load, around 0.94 or so does nicely.  By WOT, like any engine,
0.85 does make the seat of your pants happier, too.  So, I planned to toy
with the signal coming from the lambda sensor to force the computer into
letting me run rich.  However, after awhile, I realized that this band-aid
approach was too much of a pain for what it was worth, especially after all
the wiring diagrams I got for the danged ECU conflicted with one another and
with the available pins on the device itself!

Here's what I have as inputs:
- -lambda O2 sensor on exhaust (4-wire type, so heats up quickly) [voltage]
- -cylinder head temperature (thermocouple on a spark plug) [voltage]
- -"engine speed" (cheap and easy - use the DF terminal from the generator)
[voltage]
- -closed throttle and WOT [toggle switches]
- -throttle position sensor (currently a pot on the design board, but open to
suggestions...) [resistance]

I'm an ME and a ChE, so EE is the number one area I'd need help in :-)  I
have a good knowledge of electricity, fabrication, logic, programming,
thermodynamics, mathematics, yadda yadda yadda, but just a very
superficial base in electronics.

BTW, on the "engine speed," I could also use the magnetic triggering module
as a sensor - it gives a 12V pulse every time a spark plug fires.  However,
that's more accurate than I need... Since I still have a generator, there is
a signal to the generator given by the voltage regulator to offset the
voltage (which increases with RPM) enough so the net output is 12-14V.  I
figured it was a cheap and easy way to get a simple, although not terribly
accurate, voltage reading.

Ideally, what I'd like is the following:
- -Use the CHT as my engine temperature sensor, giving me a bit to warm up by.
- -Use a custom-built mixture profile using throttle position and the WOT
switch as its variables to tell what my mixture should be.
- -Use the lambda sensor to tell what the current mixture is (yes, I know it
gets somewhat insensitive as you go away from 1.00)
- -Use the closed throttle switch and the "engine speed" sensor to tell when
the throttle is closed and I'm over about 2000rpm so I can kill the fuel
supply, making mother earth happy with me :-)
- -Use the "engine speed" sensor to tell when I'm over around 6000rpm to kill
the fuel supply, making my engine innards very happy with my failed shift
:-)

I *think* that using an old laptop running in MS-DOS with GWBASIC or
something of that nature would provide a stable, simple, and RELIABLE
processor for the whole thing.  On paper, it looks pretty easy:
- -inputs: 3 voltage, 1 resistance, 2 toggle switch
- -outputs: 1 current
...and NO ignition pulses to count or injector pulses to give!
Simplicity...

I can build the data tables and write the code, but designing the interface
card for the computer is where I need help.  How would I go about doing
this, or is there something I can already buy?  Anyone toyed with cards from
companies like Elan Digital Systems in the UK?

I also plan to use a seperate solenoid triggered by the A/C system I built
to open a bypass valve to raise my idle with the A/C, but this can be
entirely seperate from the rest of the system.

Thank you for your time - I really do appreciate it.  I thank you in advance
for any help/advice you could give and hope I can give back the same...

Take care,
Shad Laws


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 13:39:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: HV DC ignition (was RE: CDI ...)

Yah,
that was my initial objection to the DC scheme too.

But what I failed to include in my last response, was
to also put a HV DC rectifier circuit between the coil
secondary and the spark plug. This would allow you to
drive the primary of the coil with the H bridge
driver, gated by the ECM, and create the desired HV DC
( > 25,000 V) at the spark plug. The technology for HV
DC rectifiers is certainly mature, having been used in
TV's for at least 25 years.

But once again, I must ask, is there any advantage?

Carter Shore
- --- "Andrew R. Ghali" <andrewg@16paws.com> wrote:
> 
> Let me throw my 2 cents in here for what it's worth:
> the problem with DC is
> turning it on & off.  Generally, a CDI uses an SCR
> (silicon controlled
> rectifier) which works like this: when there is DC
> across it, it is off
> and will remain off until a trigger is applied to
> the gate.  Once this
> happens, the SCR will remain switched on with a low
> impedence until the
> voltage across it goes to 0 (i.e. a zero crossing). 
> This is what the
> capacitor does for you - it discharges through the
> coil primary until it's
> vlotage drops to zero, when the SCR shuts off (the
> zero crossing is actually
> due to th LC tank formed by the cap and coil). 
> SCR's are used because they
> dissipate low power, require lower drive current,
> are small and cheap.  If
> you tried to switch HV DC directly to the coil,
> you'd have to use industrial
> switching transistors rated for at least 600V, with
> a substantial HV diode
> behind it so the back EMF from the coil (at switch
> off) doesn't instantly
> destroy the transistor.  These devices are larger,
> more expensive, disappate
> more power and require more drive than an SCR.  At
> least, this is my under-
> standing of the issue.
> 
> Here's a reference on SCR's:
> http://www.americanmicrosemi.com/tutorials/scr.htm
> 
> Hope that helps a little bit.
> 
> Andrew
> 
> On Fri, 2 Mar 2001 07:41:24 -0800 (PST), Carter
> Shore <clshore@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >...
> >Sure, I'd drive the coil with a push-pull DC
> switching
> >circuit, an H bridge driver. There are already
> power
> >IC's to do this, for controlling DC motors and
> such.
> >
> >You would need to calculate the frequency of the
> >pulses (and perhaps still use one of those pesky
> >capacitors) to match the coil and configuration.
> The
> >output of the coil would be a sinusoid
> (approximately)
> >of constant peak voltage, though it would be
> clipped
> >to the arc over voltage of the plug at each firing.
> >
> >The number of pulses delivered would be controlled
> by
> >the ECU 'gating' signal.
> >
> >There would still be some energy left in the system
> at
> >gate OFF time, so you might need to absorb that
> >somehow. But it might be OK to just let it
> dissipate
> >naturally, or perhaps short the primary through a
> >shunt resistor.
> >
> >One circuit for each spark plug. Sounds like a CNP
> >module.(!?)


__________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 02:53:20 +0100
From: espen hilde <mwichstr@online.no>
Subject: Problems with Zytec equiped Mazda Rally car.

Hi!
Trying to help a friend who has a used 1987 Mazda 323 16v turbo 260hp 
groupe A
Rally car.He has not driven the car and has problems getting the engine to 
start. he wants to partisipate in a rally in a week.
First he discovered a bad vier for +to the coil inside the car ,this was 
fixed and the engine started ,he tuched the trottle and the engine died. No 
sparks
after that.
The car has a early Zytec injection the driver for the injectors are in a 
separate box and the driver for coil and coil are Rover / Lucas.
The crank trigger is a thin plate with a missing 5cm part,its a hall sensor 
.
this sensor is allmost brand new because of vier break near the sensor.
when I ohm ed this sensor  with 3 viers one black one green and one red,
It ohmed 165ohm between the black and red vier,the green did not give any 
ohm at all ,and no signal when tested with a regular digital ohm meter was
readed when trying to start the engine .Measuring the connector from ecu
gave 12v from red and 12 v from green and black was ground.I did not hear 
any clikking when listening to the injectors with a piece of steel.5 volts 
was present to the sensors at ignition on .I tought the ecu or driver box 
was dead since it was no activity at the injectors but after I checked with 
a volt meter
it was flikking volts when cranking,later I checked the input to the coil 
driver the same way and it was some changing voltage at cranking.
Anyone now how to check the hall sensor properly?
Maybe the coil driver is bad,is it possible to test this easy?
Can any coil driver be used?
Thanks in advance for any input.
Espen .
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Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 21:34:44 -0600
From: Holly and Chris Mills <scmills@tntech.edu>
Subject: Re: Hello... and into to my KE-Jet project

Wow. You're heading down the same route I have been pondering - almost on 
the same car.

I've got a '78 Bus and a '65 Beetle with a '78 Bus engine in it (converted 
to upright via the 911 replica kit - but I'm going to rework the lower 
shrouds to control warm up) and I want to eventually convert both to 
KE-Jetronic. The bus is running the OEM stuff and the Beetle was running 
dual Dells - 36mm the last I drove it.

I'm mostly working on exterior looks but reading as much as I can about 
this type conversion for the fuel system so when I get there I'll be ready.

Please post your results as you go along, I'd love to follow along and learn.

At 05:40 PM 3/3/01, you wrote:
>Hello-
>
>I just joined DIY-EFI and hope I'll be able to contribute some info as well
>as draw
>some from you guys :-)
>
>Here's my project: a 1971 VW Karmann Ghia, running a modified,
>upright-cooling-converted 1973 Porsche 914 2.0L engine with air conditioning
>that I built.
>
>For ignition control, I'm currently using a fully-adjustable dual-advance
>distributor (which isn't all that bad...), made from mixing and matching
>parts from old VW Bosch distributors (see March-May 2001 "VW Trends" to see
>how... :-).  Of course, it operates without points and with a CDI box, so
>it's pretty nice.  I don't really feel a great need to toy with this...
>
>However, it also has a "well-tuned" pair of Weber 40IDFs w/ 32mm venturis.
>"Well-tuned" is a very relative term - they are still carburetors and I
>would like to see them go!  Taking cross-country trips with bags of spare
>jets for the Rockies is neat in that esoteric sort of way, but it gets old.
>
>I purchased the entire intake system from a 1984 Mercedes 190E 4-cylinder
>2.3L.  It is a KE-Jetronic system, which is essentially a purely mechanical
>fuel injection system with an electromagnetic control valve to alter the
>mixture from ideal as needed.  This (and something to the fuel pump in the
>way of a relay or something of course) is the only output I want from the
>electronics system.  I do plan to design a setup so I can change the current
>manually in the event of a failure, because around 10mA of current, a pot to
>adjust it, and a fuel mixture LED strip (which I already have) should do the
>trick nicely.
>
>Anyway, I already have the design for the non-electronic part of the system,
>complete with tuned runners and plenum to take advantage of resonance
>induction effects and the stock 2 3/8" Mercedes throttle body.  That should
>be
>more than adequate...
>
>Here's the catch: the KE-Jetronic ECU likes water temperature as an input
>and wants my car to run mostly stochiometric.  The aircooled engine wants to
>be rich under load, around 0.94 or so does nicely.  By WOT, like any engine,
>0.85 does make the seat of your pants happier, too.  So, I planned to toy
>with the signal coming from the lambda sensor to force the computer into
>letting me run rich.  However, after awhile, I realized that this band-aid
>approach was too much of a pain for what it was worth, especially after all
>the wiring diagrams I got for the danged ECU conflicted with one another and
>with the available pins on the device itself!
>
>Here's what I have as inputs:
>-lambda O2 sensor on exhaust (4-wire type, so heats up quickly) [voltage]
>-cylinder head temperature (thermocouple on a spark plug) [voltage]
>-"engine speed" (cheap and easy - use the DF terminal from the generator)
>[voltage]
>-closed throttle and WOT [toggle switches]
>-throttle position sensor (currently a pot on the design board, but open to
>suggestions...) [resistance]
>
>I'm an ME and a ChE, so EE is the number one area I'd need help in :-)  I
>have a good knowledge of electricity, fabrication, logic, programming,
>thermodynamics, mathematics, yadda yadda yadda, but just a very
>superficial base in electronics.
>
>BTW, on the "engine speed," I could also use the magnetic triggering module
>as a sensor - it gives a 12V pulse every time a spark plug fires.  However,
>that's more accurate than I need... Since I still have a generator, there is
>a signal to the generator given by the voltage regulator to offset the
>voltage (which increases with RPM) enough so the net output is 12-14V.  I
>figured it was a cheap and easy way to get a simple, although not terribly
>accurate, voltage reading.
>
>Ideally, what I'd like is the following:
>-Use the CHT as my engine temperature sensor, giving me a bit to warm up by.
>-Use a custom-built mixture profile using throttle position and the WOT
>switch as its variables to tell what my mixture should be.
>-Use the lambda sensor to tell what the current mixture is (yes, I know it
>gets somewhat insensitive as you go away from 1.00)
>-Use the closed throttle switch and the "engine speed" sensor to tell when
>the throttle is closed and I'm over about 2000rpm so I can kill the fuel
>supply, making mother earth happy with me :-)
>-Use the "engine speed" sensor to tell when I'm over around 6000rpm to kill
>the fuel supply, making my engine innards very happy with my failed shift
>:-)
>
>I *think* that using an old laptop running in MS-DOS with GWBASIC or
>something of that nature would provide a stable, simple, and RELIABLE
>processor for the whole thing.  On paper, it looks pretty easy:
>-inputs: 3 voltage, 1 resistance, 2 toggle switch
>-outputs: 1 current
>...and NO ignition pulses to count or injector pulses to give!
>Simplicity...
>
>I can build the data tables and write the code, but designing the interface
>card for the computer is where I need help.  How would I go about doing
>this, or is there something I can already buy?  Anyone toyed with cards from
>companies like Elan Digital Systems in the UK?
>
>I also plan to use a seperate solenoid triggered by the A/C system I built
>to open a bypass valve to raise my idle with the A/C, but this can be
>entirely seperate from the rest of the system.
>
>Thank you for your time - I really do appreciate it.  I thank you in advance
>for any help/advice you could give and hope I can give back the same...
>
>Take care,
>Shad Laws
>
>
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CHRIS in Middle Tennessee
scmills@tntech.edu
ICQ: 5944649

'78 VW Westfalia
'65 Beetle (Type IV powered)
'99 CR-V 5 speed
'49 Chevy 3100 Pickup
'81 Honda CB900C

For Sale:  1and a half LM 110HP Corvair motors $125
            1 LM 3.55 4 speed Corvair tranny             $75
            1 EM 80 HP engine                    $100
            1 set of header pipes for a Corvair          $25
            1 adaptor plate for Corvair engine to VW transaxle
                                                 $25
            1 1949 Chevy Pickup, 3100, black, original, good driver
                 restored bed, no rust, 6V               $3000

            I VW bus driver's door                       $25 (no glass)
            1 VW bus rear hatch                  $18 (glass)

            '72 Hodaka Wombat Enduro (no lights anymore, needs
                 clutch)                                 $150

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 23:52:10 -0700
From: "Programmer" <nwester@eidnet.org>
Subject: Re: Problems with Zytec equiped Mazda Rally car.

Do you have a labscope ? Can you view the pattern from the
hall effect--engine cranking ? It should be a nice clean square wave--same
voltage
out as supplied voltage.
Lyndon.
- -----Original Message-----
From: espen hilde <mwichstr@online.no>
To: 'diy_efi@diy-efi.org' <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Date: March 3, 2001 6:48 PM
Subject: Problems with Zytec equiped Mazda Rally car.


>Hi!
>Trying to help a friend who has a used 1987 Mazda 323 16v turbo 260hp
>groupe A
>Rally car.He has not driven the car and has problems getting the engine to
>start. he wants to partisipate in a rally in a week.
>First he discovered a bad vier for +to the coil inside the car ,this was
>fixed and the engine started ,he tuched the trottle and the engine died. No
>sparks
>after that.
>The car has a early Zytec injection the driver for the injectors are in a
>separate box and the driver for coil and coil are Rover / Lucas.
>The crank trigger is a thin plate with a missing 5cm part,its a hall sensor
>.
>this sensor is allmost brand new because of vier break near the sensor.
>when I ohm ed this sensor  with 3 viers one black one green and one red,
>It ohmed 165ohm between the black and red vier,the green did not give any
>ohm at all ,and no signal when tested with a regular digital ohm meter was
>readed when trying to start the engine .Measuring the connector from ecu
>gave 12v from red and 12 v from green and black was ground.I did not hear
>any clikking when listening to the injectors with a piece of steel.5 volts
>was present to the sensors at ignition on .I tought the ecu or driver box
>was dead since it was no activity at the injectors but after I checked with
>a volt meter
>it was flikking volts when cranking,later I checked the input to the coil
>driver the same way and it was some changing voltage at cranking.
>Anyone now how to check the hall sensor properly?
>Maybe the coil driver is bad,is it possible to test this easy?
>Can any coil driver be used?
>Thanks in advance for any input.
>Espen .
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 23:44:20 -0800
From: "Shad Laws" <shad@aircooled.net>
Subject: Re: Hello... and into to my KE-Jet project

Hey Chris-

> I've got a '78 Bus and a '65 Beetle with a '78 Bus engine in it (converted
> to upright via the 911 replica kit - but I'm going to rework the lower
> shrouds to control warm up) and I want to eventually convert both to
> KE-Jetronic. The bus is running the OEM stuff and the Beetle was running
> dual Dells - 36mm the last I drove it.
>
> Please post your results as you go along, I'd love to follow along and
learn.

Well, here's the details of the design as they stand now:

First off, I found the biggest 4-cylinder engine I could with a KE-Jet
system, and tried to shy away from engines with ignition timing and/or extra
goodies I didn't want (i.e. pre-1986 is nice).  So, I nabbed the complete
intake and fuel delivery system from the '84 Mercedes 2.3L.  It has a 60mm
throttle body which, according to my calculations, is more than plenty for
my 5800rpm 2.0L engine :-)

I'm taking stock Porsche 914 2.0L runners and modifying them.  Basically,
I'm cutting them off before they turn and hit my fan shroud and modifying
the injector bosses and holders to accept the CIS injectors, then bolting
these modified units straight on. They are beautiful, well-cast, smooth
pieces - gotta take advantage of them! Then, I noted that the OD of these
runners (after the cast-on part near the very end - they're pretty thin
after those end) is almost exactly 1.5".  So, I found a source for
smooth-walled 1.5" ID silicone rubber flex hose to go over them.  I can very
easily cut this flex hose to any length I want, making tuning for resonance
induction effects a snap.  Then, I'll make a simple plenum with a volume
that will aid in the resonance tuning to mate the four runners and a 2.5"
flex hose of the same type as the other stuff.  This flex hose will run to
the right side of the engine compartment (lotsa room there in a Ghia) to
meet the throttle body (which is very nicely connected to the air flow meter
and fuel distributor thanks to Mercedes...).  The air cleaner I'll fabricate
myself and I haven't decided whether to use a paper element for it or just
make an all-out oil bath cleaner, but I know that I'd like to stay away from
the K&N so-called "filters."  Of course, for fuel delivery I'm just using
the Mercedes fuel pump and related goodies along with two new lines I'll
have to run <sigh>. On paper, the setup sounds pretty nice!  We'll see how
it all fits together in the end...

The electronics part I talked about in the other post...  Right now, I
heavily leaning toward ready-made electronics, i.e. a laptop and a specialty
interface PCMCIA card.  That keeps the electronic fabrication to a minimum
(my weak point) and the programming/design/etc. part to a maximum (my strong
point).  Plus, the programming is much simpler than it would be for pulsed
injection... coupled with my fully-adjustable dual-advance distributor w/o
points and w/ a CDI box, it'll do nicely for a simple and adjustable setup.
In fact, if the entire electronics system fails, all I have to do is supply
a variable current to the electromagnetic valve (adjustable by a pot) and
the car keeps going on purely non-electronic means.  Beautiful for when I'm
beta testing this while travelling cross-country :-)

Take care,
Shad

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 01:00:47 EST
From: RSRACE@aol.com
Subject: Cal Map Software for Accel DFI

- --part1_68.c8c3a85.27d3340f_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Does anyone have the software for Accel DFI.  I am looking at purchasing it 
for a Vette Project and would like to see the software and possibly save 
$200.  E-mail me if you have info.

Thanks
Tom

- --part1_68.c8c3a85.27d3340f_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2>Does anyone have the software for Accel DFI. &nbsp;I am looking at purchasing it 
<BR>for a Vette Project and would like to see the software and possibly save 
<BR>$200. &nbsp;E-mail me if you have info.
<BR>
<BR>Thanks
<BR>Tom</FONT></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 22:24:51 -0800
From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Cal Map Software for Accel DFI

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C0A430.C3AF3980
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Tom,

I read an article about a gent that worked for Accels parent company that
just built this wicked 1000 hp turbo motor.  he was using the latest version
of the CalMap software (CalMap 2001 or something like that).  this is
supposed to go along with their next gen ECM's that I hear are not out yet.
from what I understand, both are supposed to be worth the wait.  one of the
guys on this list (Pretty sure it was this list), just got the new eval
version of it & was goo goo about it.  he said that he had to call them to
get them to send it to him.

from what it sounds Accel is pretty serious about this now & are making
stuff to compete with the WBO2 units & w/easier programmability.

Good luck
Bob Wooten

  -----Original Message-----
  From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of RSRACE@aol.com
  Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2001 10:01 PM
  To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
  Subject: Cal Map Software for Accel DFI


  Does anyone have the software for Accel DFI.  I am looking at purchasing
it
  for a Vette Project and would like to see the software and possibly save
  $200.  E-mail me if you have info.

  Thanks
  Tom

- ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C0A430.C3AF3980
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2919.6307" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D050501906-04032001>Tom,</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D050501906-04032001></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D050501906-04032001>I read=20
an article about a gent that worked for Accels parent company that just =
built=20
this wicked 1000 hp turbo motor.&nbsp; he was using the latest version =
of the=20
CalMap software (CalMap 2001 or something like that).&nbsp; this is =
supposed to=20
go along with their next gen ECM's that I hear are not out yet.&nbsp; =
from what=20
I understand, both are supposed to be worth the wait.&nbsp; one of the =
guys on=20
this list (Pretty sure it was this list), just got the new eval version =
of it=20
&amp; was goo goo about it.&nbsp; he said that he had to call them to =
get them=20
to send it to him.&nbsp; </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D050501906-04032001></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D050501906-04032001>from=20
what it sounds Accel is pretty serious about this now &amp; are making =
stuff to=20
compete with the WBO2 units &amp; w/easier =
programmability.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D050501906-04032001></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D050501906-04032001>Good=20
luck</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D050501906-04032001>Bob=20
Wooten</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D050501906-04032001></SPAN></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE>
  <DIV align=3Dleft class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr><FONT =
face=3DTahoma=20
  size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> =
owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org=20
  [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]<B>On Behalf Of=20
  </B>RSRACE@aol.com<BR><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, March 03, 2001 10:01=20
  PM<BR><B>To:</B> diy_efi@diy-efi.org<BR><B>Subject:</B> Cal Map =
Software for=20
  Accel DFI<BR><BR></DIV></FONT><FONT face=3Darial,helvetica><FONT =
size=3D2>Does=20
  anyone have the software for Accel DFI. &nbsp;I am looking at =
purchasing it=20
  <BR>for a Vette Project and would like to see the software and =
possibly save=20
  <BR>$200. &nbsp;E-mail me if you have info. <BR><BR>Thanks =
<BR>Tom</FONT>=20
  </FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C0A430.C3AF3980--

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Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 01:00:12 -0800
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DIY_EFI Digest          Friday, March 2 2001          Volume 05 : Number 515



In this issue:

	Re: CDI systems info wanted
	Re: CDI systems info wanted
	Re: CDI systems info wanted
	Re: CDI systems info wanted
	Re: CDI systems info wanted
	Electromotive software
	Re: Electromotive software
	Re: Electromotive software
	Re: Igniters => DIS
	Re: Electromotive software
	Re: DIY- UEGO
	Mitsubishi EFI
	promedit
	Re: new Honda NTK sensor price
	CNP coils
	Re: DIY- UEGO

See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 10:13:32 +0100
From: Arnaud Westenberg <arnaud@casema.net>
Subject: Re: CDI systems info wanted

Carter Shore wrote:
> 
> Arnaud,
> 
> There are some schematics of older CDI boxes out
> there, that utilize only a couple of transistors, and
> no IC's to produce a simple and reliable CDI function.
> The simplicity of these systems allows easy analysis
> of the the fundamental CDI operation. Attaching a
> scope (with suitable HV probe) while operating is very
> revealing.

Do you have any pointers to those schematics so I can study a bit more?
The simplicity of the schematics would really get me started :-)
 
> I'm not quite sure what advantage you seek by
> eliminating the capacitor. It's an integral part of
> the system's operation.

My idea was instead of discharging a capacitor into the primary of the
coil, directly feeding the primary of the coil with an HV AC power
supply. This would eliminate the ringing of the capacitor/coil combo and
spark duration would be as long as one feeds the coil from the power
supply. It's just an idea of a Mechanical engineer and I don't know if
it can be realized due to the power requirements, maybe the power supply
would be huge.
 
> A single high voltage (400-600 V) power inverter can
> easily supply enough energy to run several different
> capacitor/SCR/coil sets, one for each spark plug. This
> gives the simplicity and economy of a single HV power
> stage, with the flexibility and fine control of
> individual distributorless triggering.

I see, but where do I look for information about how these power
inverters operate and their construction? Would it be possible to build
such a circuit wich directly powers the primary of the coil instead of
charging a capacitor?
 
Thanks again,

Arnaud
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 10:13:47 +0100
From: Arnaud Westenberg <arnaud@casema.net>
Subject: Re: CDI systems info wanted

Warwick Anderson wrote:
> 
> Iv got a good modern CDI/MSD which Im building slowly, I mean to scan the
> plans for any who wants em...

I would really appreciate that!

> this unit can multi spark or be slightly changed to only spark twice per
> firing.
> In the plans it, it states it can handle 15,000 RPM for a V8.

Indeed, this sounds like a rather sophisticated system. I'm getting
really interested in your project!
 
> for a basic CDI plan look at this link
> http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/page2.htm
> this one has one better thing than mine, it uses an off the shelf
> transformer, where as mine you have to wind your own. something which im
> still stuck on....

Thanks for the link, I'm going to study this system thoroughly. Maybe it
does have an of the shelf transformer but it also says it's limited to
10Hz spark rate. As for the transformer, my luck is that I have an oncle
who produces them for a living so I should be able to work that part out
with him :-)) I still want to do everything myself, as much as I can,
but you'll probably understand that or you wouldn't be on a DIY list :-)

Arnaud
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 10:13:39 +0100
From: Arnaud Westenberg <arnaud@casema.net>
Subject: Re: CDI systems info wanted

chetwagner@qwest.net wrote:
> 
> I have a couple of books with schematics of some older CDI systems.
> I could hook my scanner back up and scan them so they can be put on incoming.
> Let me know so I know if I have to fight with the internal scanner
> card.

Yes please fight that card :-) I really appreciate the information from
you guys.

> You could make a high voltage/frequency supply using a
> frequency circuit and an ignition coil.  I have made these before for
> my high voltage projects, so I know that these can produce some
> substantial sparks with the proper parts.

Could you please elaborate a bit more on the power supply? What do you
mean by frequency circuit, is that the subsystem driving the primary
side of the transformer?

Thanks,

Arnaud
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 10:13:41 +0100
From: Arnaud Westenberg <arnaud@casema.net>
Subject: Re: CDI systems info wanted

Jurgen Hartwig wrote:
> 
> I don't know jack about the inner workings of CDI, but there is an article
> about the MSD-6A ignition box on the ftp site:
> 
> ftp://ftp.diy-efi.org/pub/diy_efi/documents/msd6a_02.pdf

Thanks for the link. I'll have to study a lot more before I can make
some sense of the schematics though.

Greetings Arnaud
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 10:13:52 +0100
From: Arnaud Westenberg <arnaud@casema.net>
Subject: Re: CDI systems info wanted

Stephen Burgess wrote:
> 
> With my limited electronic knowledge I attempted to peek inside one of those
> mysterious black boxes.....Friggin thing is so complicated it probably could
> control a lot more than just a couple of coils charging....

Hmm, lets hope these systems don't necessarily have to be complecated
because I'm no EE either, but hey, I'm willing to learn :-))
 
> What machine are you working on??? maybee your chip swap would work for my
> purposes?

I'm riding a Suzuki gsx 1100 '81. Although the transistor could be seen
as a chip, it's not the ECU chip swap kind of thing, it's just a
replacement for the older points systems. I don't know what you're
looking for though.

Arnaud
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 11:10:12 -0700
From: "Programmer" <nwester@eidnet.org>
Subject: Electromotive software

Hey guys,
Anyone see the issue of "Sport Compact Car" with the Subaru Impreza mod
using the Electromotice TECII software ?? Looks very cool...Looks like a
very tuneable system.

Lyndon.

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 12:21:47 -0600
From: Gabe <gellett@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Electromotive software

I have an Electromotive system in my Vette....  I've been looking at their
windows based software, but haven't purchased it yet (still running the DOS
based super*blend software).  I feel it's immensely easier to tune than my TPI
1227165 system on my truck, although not nearly as sophisticated.

Gabe

Programmer wrote:

> Hey guys,
> Anyone see the issue of "Sport Compact Car" with the Subaru Impreza mod
> using the Electromotice TECII software ?? Looks very cool...Looks like a
> very tuneable system.
>
> Lyndon.

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 12:04:32 -0700
From: "Programmer" <nwester@eidnet.org>
Subject: Re: Electromotive software

What kind of $$$ did you end up spending ?

Lyndon.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Gabe <gellett@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: Electromotive software


> I have an Electromotive system in my Vette....  I've been looking at their
> windows based software, but haven't purchased it yet (still running the
DOS
> based super*blend software).  I feel it's immensely easier to tune than my
TPI
> 1227165 system on my truck, although not nearly as sophisticated.
>
> Gabe
>
> Programmer wrote:
>
> > Hey guys,
> > Anyone see the issue of "Sport Compact Car" with the Subaru Impreza mod
> > using the Electromotice TECII software ?? Looks very cool...Looks like a
> > very tuneable system.
> >
> > Lyndon.
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --
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quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 13:13:43 -0600
From: "Jurgen Hartwig" <jhartwig@midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Igniters => DIS

> They are already going on 2001 trucks too.  I found them on a 00'
suburban
> 5.3L engine.  GM part # 10457730.  I still wonder if these have dwell
> control however, because this could still be controlled at the PCM.  How
> were you able to verify that they do have dwell control?
>

James, I do not have any proof they have dwell control, other than that
which was posted by Garfield.  In both posts, he plainly stated they
control dwell within and require a TTL level input.  If someone with more
capacity than I is willing to test a coil, take some pictures, and do a
writeup, I will pay for a single Smartcoil/CNP.

Waiting to hear back from the local dealer regarding the CNP.  Will post
with results.

Jay

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 13:20:30 -0600
From: Gabe <gellett@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Electromotive software

Well.... That was 4 years ago, before I knew what could be done with a
GMECM.....

I got everything for a SBC - manifold, 27 lb/hr injectors, 4bbl 1,000 cfm
airdoors, all sensors, high volume - high pressure fuel pump, software, all the
tech support I wanted, etc....  Ended up having about $2,700 in it in the end.
Could have done it much cheaper if I had the knowledge I have now.  Live &
learn.....

If you go that route, just get their ECM/software and do the rest yourself, save
lots of $$$.

Gabe

Programmer wrote:

> What kind of $$$ did you end up spending ?
>
> Lyndon.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gabe <gellett@earthlink.net>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 11:21 AM
> Subject: Re: Electromotive software
>
> > I have an Electromotive system in my Vette....  I've been looking at their
> > windows based software, but haven't purchased it yet (still running the
> DOS
> > based super*blend software).  I feel it's immensely easier to tune than my
> TPI
> > 1227165 system on my truck, although not nearly as sophisticated.
> >
> > Gabe
> >
> > Programmer wrote:
> >
> > > Hey guys,
> > > Anyone see the issue of "Sport Compact Car" with the Subaru Impreza mod
> > > using the Electromotice TECII software ?? Looks very cool...Looks like a
> > > very tuneable system.
> > >
> > > Lyndon.
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 17:26:30 -0500
From: rr <RRauscher@nni.com>
Subject: Re: DIY- UEGO

Oh, I don't think I'd call it crude. Maybe still a prototype, but not crude. I am
thankful that someone took the time to put something together.

BobR.

Chad Clendening wrote:

> Everything in the "CRUDE wide ratio O2 model is an approximation of how the UEGO appears to
> work.
>
> Chad
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 14:30:31 -0800
From: Peter Teulings <pteuling@amis.com>
Subject: Mitsubishi EFI

Dear Mark,

I found your website when looking for information about the diagnostics 
port of my Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4. I want to build a proprietary 
datalogger/scantool for my Psion computer and am looking for the protocol 
of the diagnostics port of the EFI.

Do you know where I would be able to get such information?

Thank in advance for your help.

Sincerely yours,
Peter Teulings

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 21:37:26 -0500
From: Chris Abreu <cra98001@uconnvm.uconn.edu>
Subject: promedit

Can somebody please tell me how to change the values using promedit.  Im 
sorry to waste everyone's time with what seems to be a stupid 
question.  Ive been playing with the program for a while and can't figure 
out how to change the values.
thanks
chris

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 21:50:49 -0500
From: "Chris Capowski" <c.capowski@home.com>
Subject: Re: new Honda NTK sensor price

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>

> I thought some people might be interested to know that I called my local
> Honda dealer to get a price and availability quote on the Honda NTK
sensor.
> The price has gone up even higher. They quoted me a list price of $296.85.
> Jason

I am safe to assume that this is a 'merican price?  The Canadian Honda list
price for the 36531-P07-003 is $213.57, which I wholesale for $181.53 Cdn.
That works out to about $120 US.  Just start ordering them from a Canadian
dealer.  These price differences are quite common in fact and go either way.
If you are looking for a Honda part and the price seems out of wack, try
across the border.  Oh yah, I also checked availability and Honda Can has
about 40 of these in stock.

Chris "Mighty Mouse" Capowski

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 22:02:10 -0800
From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
Subject: CNP coils

I just got my hand on a CNP coil assy (the entire side off of a car, 4
coils, bracket, harness).  I was pinning it out & have a few questions.  I
was hoping that the next time that someone gets one of these in their shop
that they can take a voltage reading for me.  this is came off an LS1 donor
motor for a 70-something Vette retrofit, so I don't have a car to plug it up
to.  there are 4 wires per coil (plus the HV)

pin 1 is a common to all the coils (the top)
Pin 2 is the trigger signal (the next one down)
Pin 3 is common to all the coils
Pin 4 is common to all the coils (the bottom)

from what Gar said, one of the commons is hot (+vcc), one is ground, & the
last is the common ground for all the trigger signals.  what I was hoping
was that someone could take a few voltage readings & let me know what is
what.  or if someone has a print, that would do as well.

I took some resistance readings & it is not readily clear what goes to what.
the only thing that is obvious is that from pins 1 - 4 there is a diode
across it as I was able to measure the biasing voltage (.518 V) with the
meter.

this one came off of a 99 Camaro.  there was also a 98 TA (the tag on the
car reads "600hp TA", believe it, I saw the dyno sheet, blower & squeeze)
there that had the exact same setup.  the part number on the coils (all 16)
was 12558948 (top line, p/n?), 09T29-0200 (bottom line, Date code?)

Thanks for the help

Bob Wooten
r71chevy@earthlink.net
www.r71camaro.homestead.com

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 22:16:38 -0500
From: Barry Tisdale <btisdale@cybersol.com>
Subject: Re: DIY- UEGO

My hearty thanks also, Chad - good job!!

Barry

At 05:26 PM 03/01/2001 -0500, rr wrote:
>
>Oh, I don't think I'd call it crude. Maybe still a prototype, but not
crude. I am
>thankful that someone took the time to put something together.
>
>BobR.
>
>Chad Clendening wrote:
>
>> Everything in the "CRUDE wide ratio O2 model is an approximation of how
the UEGO appears to
>> work.
>>
>> Chad
>>
>>
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DIY_EFI Digest         Thursday, March 1 2001         Volume 05 : Number 514



In this issue:

	RE: Igniters => DIS
	Re: Igniters => DIS
	RE: Igniters => DIS
	Re: CDI systems info wanted
	even more simple waste spark help or burnt fingers,smoke and little fried bits...
	Re: Igniters => DIS
	Re: CDI systems info wanted
	Re: CDI systems info wanted
	DIY- UEGO
	RE: Igniters => DIS
	Re: Igniters => DIS
	RE: Igniters => DIS
	RE: Igniters => DIS
	RE: Igniters => DIS

See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 18:45:35 -0800
From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Igniters => DIS

Jurgen,

thanks, if you run across the info on the Motorola chip I would be grateful.
I would go search their site but what site do I search (Motorola, Cheri or
ON semi)?  if you cant come up with it, I'll get over it.  maybe first I
will check the archives for the CNP or was the reference to DIS & Waste
spark?

I know it is a bunch of work, but it keeps me out of the bars & stimulates
the mind.  I am running a 383, super ram, 700r4 & a 7730/8D.  check it our
if you'd like www.r71camaro.homestead.com

BW

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Jurgen Hartwig
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 8:43 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Igniters => DIS


> I have been working on my little DIS project & am counting on the coil
> charging for a maximum of 3/4 of a rev of the crank.  this being the
case @
> idle the circuit would have the longest "on" time @ 23.1 mS @ 650 RPM, &
the
> shortest time of 1.5 mS @ 10K RPM (yea like my stroker is going to get
to
> 10K, God I hope not or I will put small bits of stroker all over the
road).
> think that this would be too long @ idle?  I am going to mock it up with
> LED's @ first & the plug the coils in later & see what happens.
>

Bob, in two pieces of literature I have (Ford FI manual and Wolf 3D
manual), coil dwell, or charge time, is between 4ms and 6.5ms.  I believe
those are constant dwell times, and if that is true, then 23.1 ms is
probably too much.  There is a Motorola chip that controls dwell.
However, I forget the number.  I can try to find it if you would like, but
to be honest, fabricating all this sounds like a lot of time.

>
> if this does happen to be too long a charge time then maybe I will give
> James a ring & see if I cant get some of those smart igniters from him &
> skip the IGBT all together.  I would much rather pay the $4 each than
$30
> each for igniters though.  specially if I goto CNP ($30 X 8 = too much)
>

Bob, if memory serves, those CNP setups already have igniters on board.
$240 for CNP, or $20 * 4 for GM coils + $30 * 4 for smart igniters.  If
you check the archives (1999) somebody (Gar or Bruce or perhaps Shannen)
had done a writeup about CNP.  I can't remember if they are TTL.  If so,
they might be your cheapest route.  I can't remember what setup you were
running (what fuel injection system?  Aftermarket or OE?)

Jay

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 20:41:21 -0600
From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
Subject: Re: Igniters => DIS

Bob Wooten wrote:
> 
> hmmmmmmmmm, there has to be a simple way to time this & keep $ & component
> count down.  makes me think, & keeps the cob webs out of the head.
> 
> thanks amigo
> BW

Try the LM1949 from NAt Semi.  A smart coil driver, it starts off with
full voltage and reduces it as the coil charges.  There's an example
circuit (Sandy's driver board) on the efi332 page.

- --steve


- -- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 18:59:10 -0800
From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Igniters => DIS

tanx, off to check it out.

BW

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of steve ravet
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 6:41 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Igniters => DIS




Bob Wooten wrote:
>
> hmmmmmmmmm, there has to be a simple way to time this & keep $ & component
> count down.  makes me think, & keeps the cob webs out of the head.
>
> thanks amigo
> BW

Try the LM1949 from NAt Semi.  A smart coil driver, it starts off with
full voltage and reduces it as the coil charges.  There's an example
circuit (Sandy's driver board) on the efi332 page.

- --steve


- --
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 13:55:03 +1100
From: "Warwick Anderson" <racingfit@goconnect.net>
Subject: Re: CDI systems info wanted

Iv got a good modern CDI/MSD which Im building slowly, I mean to scan the
plans for any who wants em...
this unit can multi spark or be slightly changed to only spark twice per
firing.
In the plans it, it states it can handle 15,000 RPM for a V8.
now I just need to hunt down the cosworth DFV block...

for a basic CDI plan look at this link
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/page2.htm
this one has one better thing than mine, it uses an off the shelf
transformer, where as mine you have to wind your own. something which im
still stuck on....

Hope this helps

Waz.
- -Subject: Re: CDI systems info wanted


> Interesting project....
>
> CDI information is hard to find, and those that have it are usually not in
the
> spirit of sharing. (maybee they came across it the hard way too, and want
some
> $$$ for all thier efforts)
>
> With my limited electronic knowledge I attempted to peek inside one of
those
> mysterious black boxes.....Friggin thing is so complicated it probably
could
> control a lot more than just a couple of coils charging....
>
> What machine are you working on??? maybee your chip swap would work for my
> purposes?
>
> Arnaud Westenberg wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > First I'd like to thank Rich M for suggesting the Motorola MGP20N40CL as
> > a replacement for my broken oem transistor in my motorcycle ignition.
> > It's running great again!
> >
> > I'm considering building a CDI ignition system for my bike and therefore
> > I'd like to ask a few questions. The system will be controlled by a
> > processor and have a coil per cylinder. Since I'm still in the EE
> > learning phase, I'm looking for information about how to build the high
> > voltage circuit used to charge the capacitor.
> >
> > Instead of charging a capacitor, I'm toying with the idea of having a
> > high voltage alternating current power supply. Obvious benefit would be
> > that spark duration could be as long as needed and could simply be
> > controlled by the processor. However I guess that components would be
> > quite large due to the power requirements. Are there any standard
> > components/circuitry to realize such a power supply from 12V?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Greetings Arnaud
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 14:11:24 +1100
From: "Warwick Anderson" <racingfit@goconnect.net>
Subject: even more simple waste spark help or burnt fingers,smoke and little fried bits...

Im about to build a waste spark system for the Hemi.
Iv got 3 coils from a Toyota waste spark system, in which one coil pak sits
on the plug and has a lead going to the other plug.
to trigger this I will have 3 reluctor pickups and a single trigger.
each reluctor pulse will go to a normal elec.ignition module and fire its
two plugs.

any one see a problem with this?
I was going to use the CDI/MSD as a single unit switched by transistors to
each coil pak but I think it was defeating the idea of waste spark? as the
CDI still has to charge and fire six times as normal. but weather the CDI
spark is better then waste spark spark I dont know...
When I finish the CDI I might run some dyno tests with both of em.

Any help would be great.


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 22:15:21 -0600
From: "Jurgen Hartwig" <jhartwig@midsouth.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Igniters => DIS

> thanks, if you run across the info on the Motorola chip I would be
grateful.
> I would go search their site but what site do I search (Motorola, Cheri
or
> ON semi)?  if you cant come up with it, I'll get over it.  maybe first I
> will check the archives for the CNP or was the reference to DIS & Waste
> spark?
>

Hello Bob, I brainstormed and remembered where I saw the Motorola chip.  A
fellow from my alma mater, Georgia Tech, designed a DIS system for one of
the school's Formula cars.  The write-up is on the DIY-EFI webpage.  The
portion of the article you need to view is in Portion 2, labeled
"Ignitor." Duh!!! :)  Here is the weblink,
http://www.diy-efi.org/diy_efi/projects/ddis/ddis2.htm

I am no electronics expert by any means, but this looks to be what you are
looking for.  It has TTL input & dwell control, so it appears to fit your
needs.  Please excuse me if I am wrong.

Regarding the CNP, or rather Smartcoil, as it was called in 1998 archives,
here are two pieces you and others might find interesting.  Both below
quotes were written by Gar, I believe of EGOR fame.

"A guy in our Aviation group that
works in a GM lab sent me one of these off a decommissioned test
vehicle, and they are NOT mere IGN coils, they're complete single-coil
IGN "systems". They contain ALL the electronics for dwell control,
current limiting, etc etc. These coils are DIRECTLY run from the
ECM/PCM. There is NO module. They have 4 terminals (plus the HV
terminal, that uses these ratchet style terminals I was tellin bout
yesterday), two for Bat Gnd, and Bat +12V, and the other two are the
digital EST signal and it's low-noise gnd return. Not usable for ION as
a transformer-type coil, cuz you cain't get to either the primary or
secondary on these puppies, but still a VERY elegant setup, indeed.
That ain't all. The biggest shock is yet to come. Brace yerself. They're
actually CHEAP (and nice and light, too). I couldn't believe it when I
went to check them out further. The GM parts counter LIST price is $41
for each "smart coil", and EVEN the harness for tying four of them
together is reasonable, list price of $62. You get 4 connectors for the
4 coils, and another larger connector. Not a bad price for 4 GM
connectors and pigtails (if you decided you couldn't use the harness as
is), at the very least, and you might even be able to get the bigger
connector from Packard! The shorty coil wires (yes, these DON'T squat
ontop the coils) have them real nice connectors I mentioned, and they as
well are pretty reasonable, at $11 ea list."

And

"I have nary a clue as to what an ICM is; never heard that before, unless
you mean just a "module". But these coils have all the electronics in
them to do the dwell compensation, etc., so they have NO module, but are
fired directly by a 5V logic level signal coming from the PCM. There is
NO separate system for just the IGN, the PCM controls all the IGN & EFI.
As far as a retrofit, not without some additional electronics. You need
at LEAST a crank wheel to fire these per-plug coils in pairs, and if you
really wanna fire only one plug at a time, then you HAVE to have a cam
reference as well. In addition to mere triggering, you'd need something
to model an advance curve, both the certifugal part that's rpm
dependent, and the 
