From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jun 16 14:06:07 2001
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From: "Brian Michalk" <michalk@awpi.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Opinions on SDSEFI
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 16:15:04 -0500
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I joined this list a couple of months ago.  My goal was to find a reliable
fuel injection system for my engine.  I bought KE jetronic parts because the
solution  was entirely mechanical, and appeared to be reliable.  Well, it
turns out that the KE doesn't work very well for my application, so I
studied the problem a little bit more.  After a couple of months of head
scratching, I've narrowed my search down to the SDS EFI EM-6F
(www.sdsefi.com) system.

Some of you guys figured out on your own from my descriptions that I was
trying to find something to work for an aircraft engine.  It turns out that
the SDS folks have sold a few installations to airplane guys, it appears
they aren't as touchy as Americans are about the threat of litigation.

First, I'd like to hear if anyone has any comments about the SDS systems.  I
like them because they are simple, and this means fewer components to break.

Second, I'm trying to solve a redundancy problem.  I really don't want two
EFI systems; I'd rather have two very different animals.  For redundancy,
I'm looking for a single injector that can make about 250 horsepower.  It
doesn't have to be sexy, but it does need to work reliably.  My thought was
that I could tap off the fuel rail and go through a metering needle valve
before the injector.  This would mean a single control for the needle valve.
Yes, I know the fuel is unmetered.  I would be required to fiddle with fuel
flow and airflow to get the thing to work right.  Is there some other way to
meter this injector?  Manifold pressure perhaps?

I've got dual batteries, mechanical and electric fuel pumps for the rest of
the redundancy.

Thoughts and opinions welcome.

 Brian Michalk  <http://www.awpi.com/michalk>
Life is what you make of it ... never wish you had done something.
Aviator, experimental aircraft builder, motorcyclist, SCUBA diver
musician, home-brewer, entrepreneur and SINGLE!

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jun 16 17:35:14 2001
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From: "Drax240z" <drax77@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <IPEEJPOJMHGJGMHAGANAAELICPAA.michalk@awpi.com>
Subject: Re: Opinions on SDSEFI
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 17:35:02 -0700
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I have the SDS EM-6E system on my 240z turbo, though I have yet to start the
car. I was very impressed with the build quality (anodized CNC parts) of the
SDS components, as well as with their customer support. I know more than
half a dozen guys that have run SDS on their Nissan 2.8L Turbo engines, and
I've yet to hear any complaints from them, except perhaps the lack of
datalogging. The price is definately right!

              Richard Lewis
       2B Mechanical Engineering
       University of Victoria, BC
http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html


----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Michalk" <michalk@awpi.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2001 2:15 PM
Subject: Opinions on SDSEFI


> I joined this list a couple of months ago.  My goal was to find a reliable
> fuel injection system for my engine.  I bought KE jetronic parts because
the
> solution  was entirely mechanical, and appeared to be reliable.  Well, it
> turns out that the KE doesn't work very well for my application, so I
> studied the problem a little bit more.  After a couple of months of head
> scratching, I've narrowed my search down to the SDS EFI EM-6F
> (www.sdsefi.com) system.
>
> Some of you guys figured out on your own from my descriptions that I was
> trying to find something to work for an aircraft engine.  It turns out
that
> the SDS folks have sold a few installations to airplane guys, it appears
> they aren't as touchy as Americans are about the threat of litigation.
>
> First, I'd like to hear if anyone has any comments about the SDS systems.
I
> like them because they are simple, and this means fewer components to
break.
>
> Second, I'm trying to solve a redundancy problem.  I really don't want two
> EFI systems; I'd rather have two very different animals.  For redundancy,
> I'm looking for a single injector that can make about 250 horsepower.  It
> doesn't have to be sexy, but it does need to work reliably.  My thought
was
> that I could tap off the fuel rail and go through a metering needle valve
> before the injector.  This would mean a single control for the needle
valve.
> Yes, I know the fuel is unmetered.  I would be required to fiddle with
fuel
> flow and airflow to get the thing to work right.  Is there some other way
to
> meter this injector?  Manifold pressure perhaps?
>
> I've got dual batteries, mechanical and electric fuel pumps for the rest
of
> the redundancy.
>
> Thoughts and opinions welcome.
>
>  Brian Michalk  <http://www.awpi.com/michalk>
> Life is what you make of it ... never wish you had done something.
> Aviator, experimental aircraft builder, motorcyclist, SCUBA diver
> musician, home-brewer, entrepreneur and SINGLE!
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jun 16 23:49:20 2001
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Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 00:01:17 -0700
From: Doug Dayson <djdayson@home.com>
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To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org, Post GM_ECM <gmecm@diy-efi.org>
Subject: New L88?
References: <IPEEJPOJMHGJGMHAGANAAELICPAA.michalk@awpi.com> <002301c0f6c5$58b94160$9dda4018@gv.shawcable.net>
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Recieved this from a friend, looking for confirmation (Jason?).

If it's supposed to be hush hush I'll understand, but if not spill the
beans...(:>)

Thanks...Doug

> Well as much as I was drilling for an answer,  I only got the following
>
>     GM intends to build 2003, '03 427 Vettes  The engines are all individually
>     labeled
>     RPO-LS88.  Which I presume is to resurrect the famous RPO L88 427 of '67.
>
>     They are to all be 520+/520+ (minimum specifically targeting the Viper) The
>     engines were designed by LPE, and in head to head testing with the LS6 big
>     block proved more reliable thru GM tests.  So GM also commissioned the
>     building with LPE.
>
>     Looking at the test sheets from several motors, I know these motors are
>     building some 530+/530+ but the spec is to 520/520.
>
>     When I arrived at LPE there were 50 GM Mass Shipping Engine racks (each
>     holds 4 engines)  being loaded on a truck.  In his shop there was easily
>     another 50-60 in the works, and in the back staging room another 150 in
>     various states.
>
>     So my guess is they are "pre-building now" for assembly later.
>
>     Also I would guess the '03 vette's engine option code to be none other then
>     RPO-LS88...
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jun 17 09:01:00 2001
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From: "Jason R. Haines" <jhaines@lingenfelter.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <IPEEJPOJMHGJGMHAGANAAELICPAA.michalk@awpi.com> <002301c0f6c5$58b94160$9dda4018@gv.shawcable.net> <3B2C55AE.ABF522AF@home.com>
Subject: Re: New L88?
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 11:06:47 -0500
Organization: Lingenfelter Performance Engineering
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The engine racks that someone saw are for the ASA engines (LPE is the
upfitter and storage facility for all of the ASA LS1 engines). The engines
arrive from GM on those racks and when they are empty we have to return them
to GM.


Jason

----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Dayson" <djdayson@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>; "Post GM_ECM" <gmecm@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2001 2:01 AM
Subject: New L88?


> Recieved this from a friend, looking for confirmation (Jason?).
>
> If it's supposed to be hush hush I'll understand, but if not spill the
> beans...(:>)
>
> Thanks...Doug
>
> > Well as much as I was drilling for an answer,  I only got the following
> >
> >     GM intends to build 2003, '03 427 Vettes  The engines are all
individually
> >     labeled
> >     RPO-LS88.  Which I presume is to resurrect the famous RPO L88 427 of
'67.
> >
> >     They are to all be 520+/520+ (minimum specifically targeting the
Viper) The
> >     engines were designed by LPE, and in head to head testing with the
LS6 big
> >     block proved more reliable thru GM tests.  So GM also commissioned
the
> >     building with LPE.
> >
> >     Looking at the test sheets from several motors, I know these motors
are
> >     building some 530+/530+ but the spec is to 520/520.
> >
> >     When I arrived at LPE there were 50 GM Mass Shipping Engine racks
(each
> >     holds 4 engines)  being loaded on a truck.  In his shop there was
easily
> >     another 50-60 in the works, and in the back staging room another 150
in
> >     various states.
> >
> >     So my guess is they are "pre-building now" for assembly later.
> >
> >     Also I would guess the '03 vette's engine option code to be none
other then
> >     RPO-LS88...
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jun 17 09:28:07 2001
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From: "Brian Michalk" <michalk@awpi.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Autronic SMC group buy.
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 11:37:10 -0500
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Is it too late to get in on the Autronic group buy?

 Brian Michalk  <http://www.awpi.com/michalk>
Life is what you make of it ... never wish you had done something.
Aviator, experimental aircraft builder, motorcyclist, SCUBA diver
musician, home-brewer, entrepreneur and SINGLE!
 
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jun 17 09:38:31 2001
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From: "Brian Michalk" <michalk@awpi.com>
To: "Jurgen Hartwig" <jhartwig@midsouth.rr.com>, <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: SDS EFI
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 11:47:31 -0500
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> > > What are referencing?
> >
> > If I could modify parameters on the fly, like ignition timing, then I
> would
> > not have to put in the external delay circuit.
>
> On the Autronic, you can modify the parameters on the fly.  You have
> excellent ignition control of each individual cylinder, as well as fine
> control of large injectors (you mentioned the desire to use one HUGE
> injector).  However, making an automatic system which adjusts timing to
> reflect your pressure readings would take a good bit more work.
>
> Jay
>

When I was referred to a backup injector, I meant that I wanted a completely
separate system.

I'll have a mechanical fuel pump, with the electrical pump as backup, so
tapping this redundant injector off the fuel rail shouldn't be a problem.
The worst that could happen is a fuel rail failure, like a fuel regulator
rupturing, or something like that.  This injector doesn't need to atomize
very well, I'm not concerned about efficiency, I just want to make enough
power to keep me in the air.  If you've ever seen a Continental state of the
art fuel injection system you would laugh and think it was a joke.  The
stream of fuel that comes out of the injector is about the diameter of a
pencil lead (.5mm).  There is no atomization at all, so the fuel gets mixed
by turbulent air.  I was thinking about something similar, or just plug the
end of a tube and drill an .050 hole in it and call it an injector.

The thing I don't know about is how to modulate that.  Could  I take a
regulator from something and plumb it to the intake manifold and somehow
modulate the pressure, or should I put together a needle valve and go
completely manual.  Either way, there's got to be some sort of manual
non-electrical way to turn on this injector.

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jun 17 12:16:41 2001
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Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 12:28:14 -0700
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Subject: Re: New L88?
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Thanks for the clarification JAson...

Doug

"Jason R. Haines" wrote:

> The engine racks that someone saw are for the ASA engines (LPE is the
> upfitter and storage facility for all of the ASA LS1 engines). The engines
> arrive from GM on those racks and when they are empty we have to return them
> to GM.
>
> Jason
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Doug Dayson" <djdayson@home.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>; "Post GM_ECM" <gmecm@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2001 2:01 AM
> Subject: New L88?
>
> > Recieved this from a friend, looking for confirmation (Jason?).
> >
> > If it's supposed to be hush hush I'll understand, but if not spill the
> > beans...(:>)
> >
> > Thanks...Doug
> >
> > > Well as much as I was drilling for an answer,  I only got the following
> > >
> > >     GM intends to build 2003, '03 427 Vettes  The engines are all
> individually
> > >     labeled
> > >     RPO-LS88.  Which I presume is to resurrect the famous RPO L88 427 of
> '67.
> > >
> > >     They are to all be 520+/520+ (minimum specifically targeting the
> Viper) The
> > >     engines were designed by LPE, and in head to head testing with the
> LS6 big
> > >     block proved more reliable thru GM tests.  So GM also commissioned
> the
> > >     building with LPE.
> > >
> > >     Looking at the test sheets from several motors, I know these motors
> are
> > >     building some 530+/530+ but the spec is to 520/520.
> > >
> > >     When I arrived at LPE there were 50 GM Mass Shipping Engine racks
> (each
> > >     holds 4 engines)  being loaded on a truck.  In his shop there was
> easily
> > >     another 50-60 in the works, and in the back staging room another 150
> in
> > >     various states.
> > >
> > >     So my guess is they are "pre-building now" for assembly later.
> > >
> > >     Also I would guess the '03 vette's engine option code to be none
> other then
> > >     RPO-LS88...
> > >
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
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> >
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jun 18 08:05:25 2001
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From: "John Walker" <dakotart98@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: SpeedPro Tuning
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 10:04:45 -0500
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I just purchased a SpeedPro with Wideband 02 for my 98 Dodge Dakota.  I've
done quite a bit of research and downloaded the software to play with.
Everyone I talk to says the tuning process is pretty intuitive.  My question
is though, has anyone here tuned a SpeedPro unit?  If I'm sure general
tuning techniques will help.  This will be my first ECU tuning project so I
want to make sure I don't screw anything up.  Should I just take the
defaults, make a pull, view the WB correction factor and other data and try
to hone it in that way?

Don't mean to sound remedial...but I want to get max power without being
dangerous.  I guess one of my biggest questions is...when do decide to go
WOT on the dyno?

Thanks,

John Walker
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Subject: Re: SpeedPro Tuning
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On Mon, 18 Jun 2001 10:04:45 -0500 "John Walker" <dakotart98@hotmail.com>
writes:
> I just purchased a SpeedPro with Wideband 02 for my 98 Dodge Dakota.

John,

I can't help out in the experience part, but I would *really* appreciate
hearing how much you paid for it, especially how it broke down into
options, to see how much the WBo2 cost you. Also who you got it from. Tnx

Brian

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jun 18 09:31:07 2001
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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?= <jorgen.m.karlsson@home.se>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 18:35:14 +0200
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Hi,

I have done some tuning with the speedpro.

Do most of the tuning on the road, you only need a dyno after the ve table
is finished. That is to find the correct target AFR and to optimize the
ignition curve for your engine. It is a lot easier to listen to knock on the
dyno then on the road.

A good start is to get a map from a similar engine, then you change the
displacement to that of your engine. Do the same thing with the injector
size. This part is very important.

First you have to set up the datalogging, unfortunally I have forgot all
about this part. But aim for 15s logtime.

Now you need to make sure that the 'dash' you use has all the parameters you
need in the log. I find o2corr, o2, o2target, intake pressure and tps to be
helpful.

Go to the VE screen. Choose a dash that are suitable.

Let the engine idle until it has warmed up.

Then check how much the speedpro has to compensate at idle, 'o2 Corr' is
what you look at. Mark the area where your engine idles and press '*' if the
speedpro adds 15% then type 115 in the window that has come up. If it
subtracts 15% then type85 in the window.

Now it is time to do a pull at very low load. Go to the log screen, lock in
second gear start the logger and drive at the same load until you dont want
to rev it more.

Take a quick look at the log, then go to the ve table again. Press 'o' (if i
remember right) the log file is now traced on the map. When you follow the
trace with the arrows the dash present the values in the log at that load
site.

Make any needed changes, make an other testrun at the same load. Make more
corrections if needed. Then copy that row of VE data all the way to the top
of the map.

Now repeat the test run at the next load level, continue until you are at
full load. Compensate where necessary.

As long as you are withing +-7% correction you are ok, very fast cars need
to get a bit closer.

Good luck

Jörgen Karlsson
Gothenburg, Sweden.

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jun 18 10:44:34 2001
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From: "Hugh" <hugh@sol.co.uk>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <IPEEJPOJMHGJGMHAGANAKENICPAA.michalk@awpi.com>
Subject: Re: Autronic SMC group buy.
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 00:46:28 +0100
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Brian,

This is the first post I have seen on the subject of a group buy and the =
first on Autronic since March.

Hugh

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Subject: Re: SpeedPro Tuning
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Start rich, and with very conservative timing.
lean and advance timing in small steps, all the while monitoring knock, and
reading plugs
Bruce




From: "John Walker" <dakotart98@hotmail.com>
Subject: SpeedPro Tuning
> I just purchased a SpeedPro with Wideband 02 for my 98 Dodge Dakota.  I've
> done quite a bit of research and downloaded the software to play with.
> Everyone I talk to says the tuning process is pretty intuitive.  My
question
> is though, has anyone here tuned a SpeedPro unit?  If I'm sure general
> tuning techniques will help.  This will be my first ECU tuning project so
I
> want to make sure I don't screw anything up.  Should I just take the
> defaults, make a pull, view the WB correction factor and other data and
try
> to hone it in that way?
> Don't mean to sound remedial...but I want to get max power without being
> dangerous.  I guess one of my biggest questions is...when do decide to go
> WOT on the dyno?
> Thanks,
> John Walker

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jun 18 14:42:11 2001
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From: "John Walker" <dakotart98@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: SpeedPro Tuning
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 16:41:34 -0500
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Brian,

SpeedPro does have a part # for our trucks with a general prescription for 
wiring it in.  That is, they give you the wires that must be replaced and/or 
spliced but no guarantees on check engine lights, etc.  The instructions are 
a one page sheet, no diagrams just pinouts.  SpeedPro however, never 
intended to market the SpeedPro as a plug and play.  Their unit has been 
modified to pick up the signals from the Magnum crank trigger on requests by 
McMormick Motorsports a campainger of Stock Eliminator trucks and other race 
teams.

Their is a company Fastrack Performance out of California that has built a 
custom harness for it.  I don't have his contact info as I am on vacation 
right now in Florida but I'd be happy to send it to you.  I ordered my 
complete setup from FastTrack for $2195.  The cheapest I could find the 
setup with WideBand O2 but without FastTrack's custom harness was $1660.  If 
I'm not mistaking a unit without WBO2 can be had for around $1200.  The 
harness is costly at $550+ But, from speeking to a few people that have 
installed it without it (including SpeedPro) "it is worth it's weight in 
gold"  We shall see.

It's a coslty mod, but a good gateway to bigger and better things.  The 
stock Dodge tuning is majorily limited.  SpeedPro claimed 20rwhp on a stock 
truck.  FastTrack confirmed this figure.  Again, we'll see the numbers when 
I'm done.  Hopefully they will be good.


John Walker - Antioch, TN - http://www.dakotaracing.com
98 IB CC - ATI 7psi, Leach Headers, TB, M1, MSD 6BTM, PI 3400 Stall, E/T 
Streets, Hotchkis





>From: Brian L Massey <blocklm@juno.com>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>Subject: Re: SpeedPro Tuning
>Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 09:09:55 -0700
>
>On Mon, 18 Jun 2001 10:04:45 -0500 "John Walker" <dakotart98@hotmail.com>
>writes:
> > I just purchased a SpeedPro with Wideband 02 for my 98 Dodge Dakota.
>
>John,
>
>I can't help out in the experience part, but I would *really* appreciate
>hearing how much you paid for it, especially how it broke down into
>options, to see how much the WBo2 cost you. Also who you got it from. Tnx
>
>Brian
>
>________________________________________________________________
>GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
>Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
>Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
>http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the 
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>




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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jun 18 14:45:16 2001
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Jörgen and Bruce...thanks for the replies.  I'm sure i'll have more 
questions when the unit arrives and i get it installed.  This gets me on the 
right track.

Later,

John

>From: Jörgen Karlsson <jorgen.m.karlsson@home.se>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
>Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 18:35:14 +0200
>
>Hi,
>
>I have done some tuning with the speedpro.
>
>Do most of the tuning on the road, you only need a dyno after the ve table
>is finished. That is to find the correct target AFR and to optimize the
>ignition curve for your engine. It is a lot easier to listen to knock on 
>the
>dyno then on the road.
>
>A good start is to get a map from a similar engine, then you change the
>displacement to that of your engine. Do the same thing with the injector
>size. This part is very important.
>
>First you have to set up the datalogging, unfortunally I have forgot all
>about this part. But aim for 15s logtime.
>
>Now you need to make sure that the 'dash' you use has all the parameters 
>you
>need in the log. I find o2corr, o2, o2target, intake pressure and tps to be
>helpful.
>
>Go to the VE screen. Choose a dash that are suitable.
>
>Let the engine idle until it has warmed up.
>
>Then check how much the speedpro has to compensate at idle, 'o2 Corr' is
>what you look at. Mark the area where your engine idles and press '*' if 
>the
>speedpro adds 15% then type 115 in the window that has come up. If it
>subtracts 15% then type85 in the window.
>
>Now it is time to do a pull at very low load. Go to the log screen, lock in
>second gear start the logger and drive at the same load until you dont want
>to rev it more.
>
>Take a quick look at the log, then go to the ve table again. Press 'o' (if 
>i
>remember right) the log file is now traced on the map. When you follow the
>trace with the arrows the dash present the values in the log at that load
>site.
>
>Make any needed changes, make an other testrun at the same load. Make more
>corrections if needed. Then copy that row of VE data all the way to the top
>of the map.
>
>Now repeat the test run at the next load level, continue until you are at
>full load. Compensate where necessary.
>
>As long as you are withing +-7% correction you are ok, very fast cars need
>to get a bit closer.
>
>Good luck
>
>Jörgen Karlsson
>Gothenburg, Sweden.
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jun 18 18:06:20 2001
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Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 18:09:41 -0700
Subject: Re: SpeedPro Tuning
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On Mon, 18 Jun 2001 16:41:34 -0500 "John Walker" <dakotart98@hotmail.com>
writes:

> Their is a company Fastrack Performance out of California that has 
> built a custom harness for it.  I don't have his contact info as I am
on 
> vacation right now in Florida but I'd be happy to send it to you.  I
ordered 
> my complete setup from FastTrack for $2195.  The cheapest I could find 
> the setup with WideBand O2 but without FastTrack's custom harness was 
> $1660.  If I'm not mistaking a unit without WBO2 can be had for around
$1200.  
> The harness is costly at $550+

Thanks, it looks like their prices are finally coming down. Just over a
1-1/2 yrs ago, the full package with WBo2 was just under $3000, so this a
lot lower. Great. Tnx

Brian

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jun 18 18:11:51 2001
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Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 21:03:28 -0400
Subject: Ford diesel info
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Does anyone know where I can find info on Ford diesel tuning and ECMs?
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jun 18 20:01:10 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 20:01:16 -0700
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Jorgen,

How long does it take to tune in a new car motor setup from scratch (w/o a
baseline tune)?

Does not the speed pro setup have some kind of an auto tune w/the WBO2?

thanks
BW

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Jörgen Karlsson
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 9:35 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning


Hi,

I have done some tuning with the speedpro.

Do most of the tuning on the road, you only need a dyno after the ve table
is finished. That is to find the correct target AFR and to optimize the
ignition curve for your engine. It is a lot easier to listen to knock on the
dyno then on the road.

A good start is to get a map from a similar engine, then you change the
displacement to that of your engine. Do the same thing with the injector
size. This part is very important.

First you have to set up the datalogging, unfortunally I have forgot all
about this part. But aim for 15s logtime.

Now you need to make sure that the 'dash' you use has all the parameters you
need in the log. I find o2corr, o2, o2target, intake pressure and tps to be
helpful.

Go to the VE screen. Choose a dash that are suitable.

Let the engine idle until it has warmed up.

Then check how much the speedpro has to compensate at idle, 'o2 Corr' is
what you look at. Mark the area where your engine idles and press '*' if the
speedpro adds 15% then type 115 in the window that has come up. If it
subtracts 15% then type85 in the window.

Now it is time to do a pull at very low load. Go to the log screen, lock in
second gear start the logger and drive at the same load until you dont want
to rev it more.

Take a quick look at the log, then go to the ve table again. Press 'o' (if i
remember right) the log file is now traced on the map. When you follow the
trace with the arrows the dash present the values in the log at that load
site.

Make any needed changes, make an other testrun at the same load. Make more
corrections if needed. Then copy that row of VE data all the way to the top
of the map.

Now repeat the test run at the next load level, continue until you are at
full load. Compensate where necessary.

As long as you are withing +-7% correction you are ok, very fast cars need
to get a bit closer.

Good luck

Jörgen Karlsson
Gothenburg, Sweden.

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jun 18 20:04:16 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 20:04:20 -0700
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John,

If you don't mind me asking why go through all the hassle for 20 HP on a
truck?  are you planning on putting a blower on it, or NOS or is this just a
toy?  just curious is all.

BW

<SNIP>

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 19 05:18:15 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
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Subject: RE: Ford diesel info
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www.ford-diesel.com  start there.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: akallotte@juno.com [mailto:akallotte@juno.com]
> Sent: Monday, June 18, 2001 9:03 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Ford diesel info
> 
> 
> Does anyone know where I can find info on Ford diesel tuning and ECMs?
> ________________________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 19 06:49:49 2001
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References: <MABBLIHBGGBFGJCJJMLDIELFCCAA.r71chevy@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: SpeedPro Tuning
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 15:49:38 +0200
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You can spend a few days just to start the engine :-)

That said, everyone seems to worry mostly about fuel mapping, but in my own
experience, this is by far the easiest and quickest part to do if you have
the right tools (wide band O2). Auto-tune may save time, but you can do just
as well without it. On the other hand, ignition mapping is extremely
important performance-wise (much more than fuel mapping IMHO) and
difficult - if not impossible - to get right on the road. It may be better
to find a base map for a similar engine and step back a few degrees as a
starting point. Also, "teaching" the engine good road manners, smooth
idleing, good cold start and perfect throttle response may take a lot of
time.

--Axel

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 5:01 AM
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning



Jorgen,

How long does it take to tune in a new car motor setup from scratch (w/o a
baseline tune)?

Does not the speed pro setup have some kind of an auto tune w/the WBO2?


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 19 12:10:38 2001
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Bob Wooten wrote:

> Jorgen,
>
> How long does it take to tune in a new car motor setup from scratch (w/o a
> baseline tune)?
>
> Does not the speed pro setup have some kind of an auto tune w/the WBO2?

I think that I need 30 minutes to get the performance better then stock.
Most of that time is for making the ignition, VE and AFR maps.
Five minutes with the engine running is usually enough to pin the VE table.
After that I need an EGT meter for the economy part. Then I use a gtech or
similar device to find the best afr at full load.

You can play around for hours to optimize the result, but after half an hour
you are very close.

There are no autotune on the speedpro, ONLY autronic has a working autotune.
Autronic on the other hand is made to run open loop while the Speedpro is
made to run closed loop all the time.

When you are driving at a stable rpm and load you can press a button, I
think it was E, to correct the current VE site with the O2 correction used
at the time. This does not work...


Jörgen

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From: "John Walker" <dakotart98@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
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Valid question Bob.  They truck is pretty well modified currently.  I enjoy 
drag racing, which is the truck's primary use and a nice weekend drive.  So 
basically, it is a toy. :) I'm currrently running an ATI P600H supercharger 
with Intercooler, Precision Industries 3400 stall converter, 28" E/T 
streets, headers & exhaust, MSD 6BTM and Blaster 3, Trans-Go shift kit and a 
few other goodies.  Electric fan and 14psi are coming with the speedpro.  I 
reached a big hurdle in the project after I put in the converter and E/T 
streets.  When I stall the truck up to about 2000K rpm (or anywhere between 
1400 and 3000) and try to flash the converter and launch hard, the truck 
just flatlines.  I verified that the timing was infact falling rapidly 
towards 0 degrees when this happens.  I've spoken with one other person that 
is researching the same problem.  It appears to be some form of torque 
management (i.e. too much engine speed, no vehicle speed cut spark advance) 
or something to that effect.  I have tried many fixes but nothing has 
worked. On the flip side...an off idle launch around 800rpm will send the 
E/T streets into smoke. Unfortunatelly I have spoke to many people including 
a couple of active Chrysler race teams, computer programmers and no one can 
confirm the existance of torque management or the problem.  I have made 
attempts to acquire an internal engineers contact info...but have had no 
luck.

So...enter SpeedPro.  My philosophy is that if the computer is making an 
active decision to cut timing....then SpeedPro will cure the problem since 
it will be making all Fuel and Timing decisions.  I researched AutoTronic, 
Hal-Tech, Electromotive, SpeedPro, and Accell before making my final 
decision.  SpeedPro was proven and the less intrusive harness was available. 
  Besides the cost, I think it will work well.  So...if I can race 
again...i've succeded.  But a modest horsepower gain should be an added 
bonus.  Plus heads and cam are next and that would surely throw the stock 
computer for a loop.  Their are also a few hiccups the the Supercharger has 
introduced to the truck that the SpeedPro will fix (stock 1-bar incorrectly 
reads 30" of vaccum under boost causing a surge in part throttle accel).  
Plus I can ditch the FMU and run a constant fuel pressure and change pulse 
width with boost and rpm.

If your interested in more details check out my website at 
http://www.DakotaRacing.com

later,

John


>From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
>Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 20:04:20 -0700
>
>John,
>
>If you don't mind me asking why go through all the hassle for 20 HP on a
>truck?  are you planning on putting a blower on it, or NOS or is this just 
>a
>toy?  just curious is all.
>
>BW
>
><SNIP>
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 19 15:19:12 2001
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From: "Jörgen Karlsson" <jorgen.m.karlsson@home.se>

> I think that I need 30 minutes to get the performance better then stock.

Oh, please,
be a little realistic,
You might get a car running OK in 30 mins., but not at all like an oem
calibration.   What hot weather testing, cold weather testing, what various
gasoline mixtures did you run?.
Did you try winter gas in hot weather, or summer gas in cold weather?.
"Performance" includes matters other then just WOT, and if you talking WOT
then you might be specific about in that one area.

Shall we even mention emissions?.
Bruce



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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 19 15:59:32 2001
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References: <FFELLMEAKKMHJGCNJEGIIENADGAA.jorgen.m.karlsson@home.se> <022601c0f90d$f33b1340$4a258fd1@bruce>
Subject: Re: SpeedPro Tuning
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Agreed! Your friend, Kris Weldy.
Arlington Texas
1987 volvo 760ti,20psi,haltech f7c ,mk3 injectors and fuel pump
many mods..(sold)
1988 supra turbo japan spec motor swap going in soon
1996 dodge avenger es

"Racing makes a herion addiction seem like a vague wish for something salty"
Peter Eagan
Aim: Volvofam3




>
> From: "Jörgen Karlsson" <jorgen.m.karlsson@home.se>
>
> > I think that I need 30 minutes to get the performance better then stock.
>
> Oh, please,
> be a little realistic,
> You might get a car running OK in 30 mins., but not at all like an oem
> calibration.   What hot weather testing, cold weather testing, what
various
> gasoline mixtures did you run?.
> Did you try winter gas in hot weather, or summer gas in cold weather?.
> "Performance" includes matters other then just WOT, and if you talking WOT
> then you might be specific about in that one area.
>
> Shall we even mention emissions?.
> Bruce
>
>
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 19 18:16:42 2001
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To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 03:21:29 +0200
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> Shall we even mention emissions?.

Sorry about that, I assume a performance vehicle, emission equipment is an
other ballgame. I don't think that the Speedpro is capable of controlling
most of that stuff. Not even the cat will work as it is ment to, it reqires
the rich/lean transitions during cruise. The speedpro has a stable AFR
during closed loop.

Other then that the warmup parameters will have to be adjusted when the
weather show that it is needed. Things like getting a stable idle when you
first put it into drive after a cold start has proven to be pretty hard on
some cars. Very hard on the syclone, it had to sit for at least six hours
between tests. One test per six hours is a bit time consuming.

The syclone a truck that has run 11.7@130 and get 30mpg on the highway. The
stroker engine that has replaced the old 4.3 is not tuned properly below
atmosphere pressure. The cam is very different from the one that was used
earlier. The speedpro hit the maximum correction of -20% at low rpm and +10%
at high rpm. Two passes in second gear and three corrections, then the
battery on the laptop went dead. Then we forgot about it and we only did
high power tuning after that. Still 30mpg, that is a little better then
stock, even if the truck has at least 400hp more then stock. The fun thing
is that that program would probably enhance the performance and economy of a
bone stock syclone or typhoon too, maybe even your GN? Many people would be
satisfied with that combination of performance and economy, but not you,
right? By the way, it passed emmisions with this program in it, very
strange... Could full time closed loop really work?

But of course, I'll say: At least one year, we have to do proper testing
under all weather conditions. We will also have to find a very high mountain
and all different fuel types used in the world. Then we have to run the
engine until it is close to the end of its service life and check the tuning
then. Then we use the least optimal tuning that we have used during all this
time and lock that in the ecu and froget the access code.

Yeah, I know, you meant to delete this offline...

Jörgen,
Back in reality.

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 19 18:53:44 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 18:53:44 -0700
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There cant be anything better for a brand new motor than to crank & crank &
crank on it cause it will not fire.

BW

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Axel Rietschin
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 6:50 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: SpeedPro Tuning


You can spend a few days just to start the engine :-)

That said, everyone seems to worry mostly about fuel mapping, but in my own
experience, this is by far the easiest and quickest part to do if you have
the right tools (wide band O2). Auto-tune may save time, but you can do just
as well without it. On the other hand, ignition mapping is extremely
important performance-wise (much more than fuel mapping IMHO) and
difficult - if not impossible - to get right on the road. It may be better
to find a base map for a similar engine and step back a few degrees as a
starting point. Also, "teaching" the engine good road manners, smooth
idleing, good cold start and perfect throttle response may take a lot of
time.

--Axel

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 5:01 AM
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning



Jorgen,

How long does it take to tune in a new car motor setup from scratch (w/o a
baseline tune)?

Does not the speed pro setup have some kind of an auto tune w/the WBO2?


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 19 18:55:15 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 18:55:07 -0700
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Thanks for all the input.  I think that for the race car I am going to see
if we cant pull of a speedpro.  I have to talk with the partners & see what
they think.

BW

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Jörgen Karlsson
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 12:15 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning


Bob Wooten wrote:

> Jorgen,
>
> How long does it take to tune in a new car motor setup from scratch (w/o a
> baseline tune)?
>
> Does not the speed pro setup have some kind of an auto tune w/the WBO2?

I think that I need 30 minutes to get the performance better then stock.
Most of that time is for making the ignition, VE and AFR maps.
Five minutes with the engine running is usually enough to pin the VE table.
After that I need an EGT meter for the economy part. Then I use a gtech or
similar device to find the best afr at full load.

You can play around for hours to optimize the result, but after half an hour
you are very close.

There are no autotune on the speedpro, ONLY autronic has a working autotune.
Autronic on the other hand is made to run open loop while the Speedpro is
made to run closed loop all the time.

When you are driving at a stable rpm and load you can press a button, I
think it was E, to correct the current VE site with the O2 correction used
at the time. This does not work...


Jörgen

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 19 19:02:17 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 19:02:15 -0700
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Boy, the mental picture of your truck just changed radically.  This sounds
like a great toy.  Hope all goes well.  have you tried talking with any of
the turbo Regal guys (www.gnttype.org http://turbobuick.com/messagebd/)?  my
understanding is that there are a LOT of them running the SpeedPro.

Good luck, let us know it goes.

BW

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of John Walker
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 2:12 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning


Valid question Bob.  They truck is pretty well modified currently.  I enjoy
drag racing, which is the truck's primary use and a nice weekend drive.  So
basically, it is a toy. :) I'm currrently running an ATI P600H supercharger
with Intercooler, Precision Industries 3400 stall converter, 28" E/T
streets, headers & exhaust, MSD 6BTM and Blaster 3, Trans-Go shift kit and a
few other goodies.  Electric fan and 14psi are coming with the speedpro.  I
reached a big hurdle in the project after I put in the converter and E/T
streets.  When I stall the truck up to about 2000K rpm (or anywhere between
1400 and 3000) and try to flash the converter and launch hard, the truck
just flatlines.  I verified that the timing was infact falling rapidly
towards 0 degrees when this happens.  I've spoken with one other person that
is researching the same problem.  It appears to be some form of torque
management (i.e. too much engine speed, no vehicle speed cut spark advance)
or something to that effect.  I have tried many fixes but nothing has
worked. On the flip side...an off idle launch around 800rpm will send the
E/T streets into smoke. Unfortunatelly I have spoke to many people including
a couple of active Chrysler race teams, computer programmers and no one can
confirm the existance of torque management or the problem.  I have made
attempts to acquire an internal engineers contact info...but have had no
luck.

So...enter SpeedPro.  My philosophy is that if the computer is making an
active decision to cut timing....then SpeedPro will cure the problem since
it will be making all Fuel and Timing decisions.  I researched AutoTronic,
Hal-Tech, Electromotive, SpeedPro, and Accell before making my final
decision.  SpeedPro was proven and the less intrusive harness was available.
  Besides the cost, I think it will work well.  So...if I can race
again...i've succeded.  But a modest horsepower gain should be an added
bonus.  Plus heads and cam are next and that would surely throw the stock
computer for a loop.  Their are also a few hiccups the the Supercharger has
introduced to the truck that the SpeedPro will fix (stock 1-bar incorrectly
reads 30" of vaccum under boost causing a surge in part throttle accel).
Plus I can ditch the FMU and run a constant fuel pressure and change pulse
width with boost and rpm.

If your interested in more details check out my website at
http://www.DakotaRacing.com

later,

John


>From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
>Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 20:04:20 -0700
>
>John,
>
>If you don't mind me asking why go through all the hassle for 20 HP on a
>truck?  are you planning on putting a blower on it, or NOS or is this just
>a
>toy?  just curious is all.
>
>BW
>
><SNIP>
>
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Subject: Re: SpeedPro Tuning
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 23:30:05 -0400
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From: "Jörgen Karlsson" <jorgen.m.karlsson@home.se>
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
> > Shall we even mention emissions?.
> Sorry about that, I assume a performance vehicle, emission equipment is an
> other ballgame. I don't think that the Speedpro is capable of controlling
> most of that stuff. Not even the cat will work as it is ment to, it
reqires
> the rich/lean transitions during cruise. The speedpro has a stable AFR
> during closed loop.

Yet below, you said it did.
So it kinda sorta passes?.
No CCP control
No EGR

> Other then that the warmup parameters will have to be adjusted when the
> weather show that it is needed. Things like getting a stable idle when you
> first put it into drive after a cold start has proven to be pretty hard on
> some cars. Very hard on the syclone, it had to sit for at least six hours
> between tests. One test per six hours is a bit time consuming.
> The syclone a truck that has run 11.7@130 and get 30mpg on the highway.
The
> stroker engine that has replaced the old 4.3 is not tuned properly below
> atmosphere pressure. The cam is very different from the one that was used
> earlier. The speedpro hit the maximum correction of -20% at low rpm and
+10%
> at high rpm. Two passes in second gear and three corrections, then the
> battery on the laptop went dead. Then we forgot about it and we only did
> high power tuning after that. Still 30mpg, that is a little better then
> stock, even if the truck has at least 400hp more then stock. The fun thing
> is that that program would probably enhance the performance and economy of
a
> bone stock syclone or typhoon too, maybe even your GN?

Please explain how, it could function any better?.
Since you've pointed me out.
I have the proper drivers for the P+H injectors, and a lean cruise.
Now to split hairs, I have a Translator Plus so I can change timing on the
fly, and fuel on the fly without even needing a laptop.  With my  Scanmaster
I can monitor any parameter on the ALDL link.  With my Direct Scan I can
record 18 frames a second, if I want to hook up a laptop for datalogging.
Also, a boost controller for on the fly wastegate control.   While to add
them all up gets into some money, but I've just done one at a time as funds
permit.
I can run closed loop, open loop, open loop idle.
Anti-theft, launch from stand still rpm control.
Control the CCP, EGR, TCC.
Can do the catalytic converter rich lean cycle.
I can run my version of antilag.
I can trim fuel by TPS or VSS
Prior to getting the lean cruise, in normal driving got 25.6, and that
included some fun moments.

> Many people would be
> satisfied with that combination of performance and economy, but not you,
> right?

It's acceptable, but what's your point?.
Speedpro has it's place just as well as others do.  But it's no miracle.
I just took exception to your statement of in 30 mins could out perform a
oem ecm.

> By the way, it passed emmisions with this program in it, very
> strange...

An abbreviated one.  Just no way for it to pass the full oem testing the EPA
requires.

>Could full time closed loop really work?

Of course, Honda has been doing it for years, and with full emissions
compliance.

> But of course, I'll say: At least one year, we have to do proper testing
> under all weather conditions. We will also have to find a very high
mountain
> and all different fuel types used in the world. Then we have to run the
> engine until it is close to the end of its service life and check the
tuning
> then. Then we use the least optimal tuning that we have used during all
this
> time and lock that in the ecu and froget the access code.

You're the one that made the claim.

You got a race car and the bucks, a SpeedPro can be a nice ecm.
Want to run P+Hs for port injection, it's one of only a few that can.
Simple laptop programming, again fine.

> Yeah, I know, you meant to delete this offline...

Na, you missed the point on when I use that remark
Bruce

> Jörgen,
> Back in reality.


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 20 10:16:35 2001
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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:10:00 -0500
From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
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Subject: Be famous among gearheads!
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Anyone seen the miata list archives?  They're threaded, so that after a
search turns up a post you can browse forwards and backwards in related
messages.  I'd like to set up something similar for the 3 diy_efi
lists.  I was in contact with the miata list guy (Andy) a while ago, and
he said he'd send me his scripts, but I haven't been able to reach him
lately.  But no matter, there are smart people on this list!  We should
be able to duplicate it.  There are 2 parts to it:

There is a script that is subscribed to the list, that receives
messages, figures out the threading, formats them into html including
links to previous and next thread messages, and saves that somewhere.  

Then there's a generic html search engine that indexes and searches this
archive.  The miata list uses Glimpse.

I can get/compile/install Glimpse (that's the easy part).  But the other
part is beyond my limited knowledge of scripts/email.  Is there a
volunteer or group of volunteers who could get together and write this
script?  It's going to be a significant project so please make sure you
have the time and ability before signing up.  If you're interested
please reply privately to my email address below.

thanks,
--steve

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 20 10:52:05 2001
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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 12:51:51 -0500
From: Andrew S Mehlos <andrew.mehlos@voyager.net>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Mitsubishi diagnostic port
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  Does anyone have any information(*) on the diagnostic port 
used on 90-94 Eclipse/Talon/Laser (And pre-'94 Stealths/
3000GT's, IIRC.) I'm trying to build a monitoring project
with a PIC and a 20x4 LCD display. AFAICT, it's just a 1-wire
interface.  After days of searching, there doesn't seem to 
be much of _anything_ on the diagnostic ports on these cars 
in terms of information. (I'm familiar with TMO's Datalogger,
but it's not really what I'm looking for, since it requires a 
laptop running Windows, and I've got this spiffy LCD display 
anyways.) 

(Apologies if this is considered off-topic for the DIY-EFI 
list, but it's really the closest thing I could find.) 


(*) Any info at all appreciated; just having concrete information
on the voltage levels and timing info would be tremendous help at
this point. 



-- 
Andrew S. Mehlos               |finger dweezil@execpc.com for PGP key
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 20 11:27:11 2001
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References: <FFELLMEAKKMHJGCNJEGIIENADGAA.jorgen.m.karlsson@home.se> <022601c0f90d$f33b1340$4a258fd1@bruce>
Subject: Re: SpeedPro Tuning
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 00:54:16 +0200
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>Shall we even mention emissions?.

...I forgot that one :-)

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 20 12:04:57 2001
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From: "David & Cheryl Haggard" <david@newcovenant.com>
To: <gmecm@diy-efi.org>, "'diy_efi'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>,
        "'efi_332'" <efi332@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Be famous among gearheads!
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 14:04:46 -0500
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   In the meantime, if you use Microsoft Outlook for email--
Pull down the "View" menu
Choose "Current View > By Conversation Topic"

   Voila! Conversations sorted by thread!
   Not sure, but I think Outlook Express does the same thing.

Dave Haggard
   1988 Formula Firebird
   305 2 X 2-bbl CFI (under construction)
   http://www.newcovenant.com/firebird/


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-gmecm@diy-efi.org 
> [mailto:owner-gmecm@diy-efi.org]On Behalf
> Of steve ravet
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 12:10 PM
> To: gmecm@diy-efi.org; diy_efi; efi_332
> Subject: Be famous among gearheads!
> 
> 
> Anyone seen the miata list archives?  They're threaded, so 
> that after a
> search turns up a post you can browse forwards and backwards 
> in related
> messages.  I'd like to set up something similar for the 3 diy_efi
> lists.  I was in contact with the miata list guy (Andy) a 
> while ago, and
> he said he'd send me his scripts, but I haven't been able to reach him
> lately.  But no matter, there are smart people on this list!  
> We should
> be able to duplicate it.  There are 2 parts to it:
> 
> There is a script that is subscribed to the list, that receives
> messages, figures out the threading, formats them into html including
> links to previous and next thread messages, and saves that 
> somewhere.  
> 
> Then there's a generic html search engine that indexes and 
> searches this
> archive.  The miata list uses Glimpse.
> 
> I can get/compile/install Glimpse (that's the easy part).  
> But the other
> part is beyond my limited knowledge of scripts/email.  Is there a
> volunteer or group of volunteers who could get together and write this
> script?  It's going to be a significant project so please 
> make sure you
> have the time and ability before signing up.  If you're interested
> please reply privately to my email address below.
> 
> thanks,
> --steve
> 
> -- 
> Steve Ravet
> steve.ravet@arm.com
> ARM,Inc.
> www.arm.com
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> --------------
> To unsubscribe from gmecm, send "unsubscribe gmecm" (without 
> the quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to 
> majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> 
> 
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 20 15:08:48 2001
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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?= <jorgen.m.karlsson@home.se>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 00:13:31 +0200
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Hi Bruce,

I admit it, your GN was a bad example. But maybe one that has similar
mechanic parts could benefit from the program.

The emmissions testing over here is a bit different, they check the
emmissions and that the EGR vavle is still there. I have been told that the
maximum values are pretty strict by international standards, but they don't
usually do a component check. Since the syclone is a private import the
component check is not a problem, if the modifications was done when it was
in the US they are legal.

The manufacturers has to make a lot of tradeoffs to make the car work under
any circumstance, that is what makes it possible for us to get added
performance with simple modifications.

A few of my friends work at the engine lab at volvo, they find it very
amusing to spend hours listening to knock and checking in cylinder pressure
plots. Then they pull a few degrees of the curve they used in the worst test
engine and deliver it to final testing. During the last years the tolerances
between the engines have been worked on a lot, some of volvos cars have hand
ported heads and intakes from the factory to stay within spec. Wide band o2
is required to meet the highest emission standards today. These cars can
still be inproved but they require a lot more work then the older cars, the
electronics compensate for almost everything.

And I dont have a race car and the money, I only tune the beast. I am very
slowly building a turbocharged Audi 80 for myself, I went with autronic on
that car. It takes me ages to get money for everything.

Jörgen

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 20 16:02:59 2001
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Subject: Re: Be famous among gearheads!
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 19:12:30 -0400
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Dave,

Thanks for the tip!  I've been trying to figure this out for ages.

Next question.  I tried deleting a collapsed conversation and it came up
with a warning.  I clicked on "no" when prompted if I wanted to delete all
the messages.  Unfortuantely I had "Don't ask me again" checked as well.  I
want to be able to delete entire threads without reading.  How do I change
it???  Anyone know?

Thanks again,

Matt.

----- Original Message -----
From: "David & Cheryl Haggard" <david@newcovenant.com>
To: <gmecm@diy-efi.org>; "'diy_efi'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>; "'efi_332'"
<efi332@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 3:04 PM
Subject: RE: Be famous among gearheads!


>    In the meantime, if you use Microsoft Outlook for email--
> Pull down the "View" menu
> Choose "Current View > By Conversation Topic"
>
>    Voila! Conversations sorted by thread!
>    Not sure, but I think Outlook Express does the same thing.
>
> Dave Haggard
>    1988 Formula Firebird
>    305 2 X 2-bbl CFI (under construction)
>    http://www.newcovenant.com/firebird/
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-gmecm@diy-efi.org
> > [mailto:owner-gmecm@diy-efi.org]On Behalf
> > Of steve ravet
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 12:10 PM
> > To: gmecm@diy-efi.org; diy_efi; efi_332
> > Subject: Be famous among gearheads!
> >
> >
> > Anyone seen the miata list archives?  They're threaded, so
> > that after a
> > search turns up a post you can browse forwards and backwards
> > in related
> > messages.  I'd like to set up something similar for the 3 diy_efi
> > lists.  I was in contact with the miata list guy (Andy) a
> > while ago, and
> > he said he'd send me his scripts, but I haven't been able to reach him
> > lately.  But no matter, there are smart people on this list!
> > We should
> > be able to duplicate it.  There are 2 parts to it:
> >
> > There is a script that is subscribed to the list, that receives
> > messages, figures out the threading, formats them into html including
> > links to previous and next thread messages, and saves that
> > somewhere.
> >
> > Then there's a generic html search engine that indexes and
> > searches this
> > archive.  The miata list uses Glimpse.
> >
> > I can get/compile/install Glimpse (that's the easy part).
> > But the other
> > part is beyond my limited knowledge of scripts/email.  Is there a
> > volunteer or group of volunteers who could get together and write this
> > script?  It's going to be a significant project so please
> > make sure you
> > have the time and ability before signing up.  If you're interested
> > please reply privately to my email address below.
> >
> > thanks,
> > --steve
> >
> > --
> > Steve Ravet
> > steve.ravet@arm.com
> > ARM,Inc.
> > www.arm.com
> > --------------------------------------------------------------
> > --------------
> > To unsubscribe from gmecm, send "unsubscribe gmecm" (without
> > the quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
> > majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> >
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 20 16:27:46 2001
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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 16:30:51 -0700
Subject: Re: SpeedPro Tuning
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On Thu, 21 Jun 2001 00:13:31 +0200 =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?=
<jorgen.m.karlsson@home.se> writes:

> And I dont have a race car and the money, I only tune the beast.

Hi Jörgen,

I personally would like to hear anything more about your experience with
the SpeedPro as you do this tuning for the project you are working on.
Much of what you will run into is certainly going to increase the group's
understanding (and mine) of tuning, especially using WB. (I want to know
if it's worth building one :). I'm sorry to say that it seems most of the
people that pop up in these lists when they start out with the SpeedPro,
just disappear and we don't get to hear any more about their learning
process. That's too bad.

I wonder if anyone remembers like I do from past posts, about a guy that
was using a SpeedPro, but noticed it getting thrown off by bogus
situations like, a plug wire breaks, that cylinder stops firing, the HC's
in the exhaust header rise, fooling the SEFI8LO into thinking it is too
rich, so it trys to compensate, leading to a dangerous leanment for the
engine overall? I'm trying to find that in my lurk-days saved posts. I
remember it real clear. Scared me. This guy was IIRC saying that once
dialed in, that open-loop WOT fueling was much safer, because it wouldn'
t be put off by some bogus AFR indication. I don't know enough about
these things to tell if this was an important observation, or a fluke
that didn't matter.

You will mebe be able to answer this and other questions for us duffers
if you keep reporting on your experiences. Soooo, please DO!!

Brian L.
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 20 18:31:10 2001
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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?= <jorgen.m.karlsson@home.se>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 03:35:59 +0200
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> I wonder if anyone remembers like I do from past posts, about a guy that
> was using a SpeedPro, but noticed it getting thrown off by bogus
> situations like, a plug wire breaks, that cylinder stops firing, the HC's
> in the exhaust header rise, fooling the SEFI8LO into thinking it is too
> rich, so it trys to compensate, leading to a dangerous leanment for the
> engine overall?

I have had my chare of broken plug wires, it havent caused any big problems
for the speedpro. That is strange since the revlimiter makes a mess.

Detonation on the other hand is a big problem, the reading are all over the
place when that happens. If the o2correction is big when this happens there
can be a nasty oscillation. The biggest problems occur when the next shift
occurs before the oscillation has ended.

When we had a problem with overrun on first gear there was often a
detonation when the second gear dropped in (what do I expect with tree
trigger pulses per rpm?). The overrun often caused the wrong mixture, then
the detonation came and messed things up further. The oscillation continued
for a second or so, but third gear came in before the oscillation was over
most of the time. If the mixture was lean then there could be a detonation
right after the shift of the same reason as there often was a detonation at
the first to second gear shift.

For the o2 to work the rev limiter must be soft touch fuel, since sequential
injection is needed for this and I dont think that even the sequential
speedpro can do this there is a problem. The revlimiter must not be tripped
at any cost. If it is you must run open loop. We did some experimenting with
an antilag system before we installed the speedpro, when we first activated
it after intalling the speedpro the engine didnt respond as planned ;) We
just werent thinking.

One other problem is that the speedpro assume that the current o2 correction
is correct after the shift too. Lets say that we blindly follow the
+-7%rule. At 4000rpm the correcton add 7% fuel and at the shift at 5500 it
subtract 7%. After the shift the ecu will make the mixture 14% to lean, that
is not good. As long as there is not a detonation because of this the
mixture will be back where it belong a quarter of a second later, but if it
detonates we could have a problem.

I think that the engine acceleration is the problem, when the car shift more
then once a second closed loop does not work that well. I will probably tune
a turbo civic next month, I wonder how it works with an engine that is
extremely sensitive to mixture variations. A manual transmission will also
be interesting.

Jörgen

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 20 20:00:43 2001
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Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 22:58:39 -0400
From: Andris Skulte <skulte@skulte.com>
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
In-reply-to: <FFELLMEAKKMHJGCNJEGIMEOBDGAA.jorgen.m.karlsson@home.se>
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> A few of my friends work at the engine lab at volvo, they find it very
> amusing to spend hours listening to knock and checking in
> cylinder pressure
> plots.

Have any of you ever used the Optrand PSI-plug pressure transducers
(http://www.optrand.com)? They take your spark plug, EDM a small passage and
add a  fitting for the optical sensor. The transducers have ranges from
0-70, 100, or 200 bar, and are linear for a 50kHz response with a 0.5 to 5V
output. The price is still expensive for DIY'ers, but not unobtainable like
Kistler's. Optrand charges $200us for the plug machining, and $600ish for
the conditioning module/fiber/sensor. I'd like to get a PCMCIA data
acquisition card for some testing (basic pressures and temperatures, I
figure an 8 channel 12 bit 100k would fit the bill). Are there any
recommendations? I'm not super familiar with this, as I've just used the
generic setups in the school control systems lab a few years ago.

------------------
Andris Skulte
Skulte Performance Designs
Z28tt-89 IROC T56 DFI Twin Turbo
http://www.skulte.com


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 20 20:14:43 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 20:14:36 -0700
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what is overrun?

BW

<SNIP>


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 20 20:28:45 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>, <gmecm@diy-efi.org>, "efi_332" <efi332@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Be famous among gearheads!
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 20:27:31 -0700
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On the flip side of this subject, has anyone seen the Ultimate BB software?
The 2nd Gen Camaro site uses it (among others) & it has a double boat load
of great features. two of the features that I like the best is that all I
have to do is to be on the WWW to access it.  & the other is the search
ability.  I think that the down side to this though is $$$$.  I travel a
bunch for my company & this makes keeping up with my hobby, very convenient.
If you have not checked it out please do.

Others have thoughts on it?

BW

3rd Gen Camaro BB
http://www.thirdgen.org/cgi-bin/messgboard/Ultimate.cgi?action=intro&BypassC
ookie=true

2nd Gen Camaro BB
http://www.nastyz28.com/cgi-bin/Ultimate.cgi?action=intro&BypassCookie=true


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of steve ravet
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 10:10 AM
To: gmecm@diy-efi.org; diy_efi; efi_332
Subject: Be famous among gearheads!


Anyone seen the miata list archives?  They're threaded, so that after a
search turns up a post you can browse forwards and backwards in related
messages.  I'd like to set up something similar for the 3 diy_efi
lists.  I was in contact with the miata list guy (Andy) a while ago, and
he said he'd send me his scripts, but I haven't been able to reach him
lately.  But no matter, there are smart people on this list!  We should
be able to duplicate it.  There are 2 parts to it:

There is a script that is subscribed to the list, that receives
messages, figures out the threading, formats them into html including
links to previous and next thread messages, and saves that somewhere.

Then there's a generic html search engine that indexes and searches this
archive.  The miata list uses Glimpse.

I can get/compile/install Glimpse (that's the easy part).  But the other
part is beyond my limited knowledge of scripts/email.  Is there a
volunteer or group of volunteers who could get together and write this
script?  It's going to be a significant project so please make sure you
have the time and ability before signing up.  If you're interested
please reply privately to my email address below.

thanks,
--steve

--
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 20 20:47:54 2001
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Subject: Re: SpeedPro Tuning
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Any time you lift off of the gas
Bruce 



From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
> what is overrun?
> BW
> <SNIP>

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 20 20:50:20 2001
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Subject: Re: SpeedPro Tuning
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Talk about voices from the past.
Hi there
Bruce




From: "Andris Skulte" <skulte@skulte.com>
> > A few of my friends work at the engine lab at volvo, they find it very
> > amusing to spend hours listening to knock and checking in
> > cylinder pressure
> > plots.

> Have any of you ever used the Optrand PSI-plug pressure transducers
> (http://www.optrand.com)? They take your spark plug, EDM a small passage
and
> add a  fitting for the optical sensor. The transducers have ranges from
> 0-70, 100, or 200 bar, and are linear for a 50kHz response with a 0.5 to
5V
> output. The price is still expensive for DIY'ers, but not unobtainable
like
> Kistler's. Optrand charges $200us for the plug machining, and $600ish for
> the conditioning module/fiber/sensor. I'd like to get a PCMCIA data
> acquisition card for some testing (basic pressures and temperatures, I
> figure an 8 channel 12 bit 100k would fit the bill). Are there any
> recommendations? I'm not super familiar with this, as I've just used the
> generic setups in the school control systems lab a few years ago.
> Andris Skulte
> Skulte Performance Designs
> Z28tt-89 IROC T56 DFI Twin Turbo
> http://www.skulte.com

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 20 21:38:28 2001
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Jörgen Karlsson wrote:

<snip>

> During the last years the tolerances
> between the engines have been worked on a lot, some of volvos cars have hand
> ported heads and intakes from the factory to stay within spec. Wide band o2
> is required to meet the highest emission standards today. 

Any way to confirm these sensors are a Bosch LSU 4?  I worked on a 1999 Volvo
V70 2.4L turbo yesterday which appeared to have an LSU4 wide band, but I was
unable to see the numbers on the sensor and I was unwilling to risk damaging the
threads to find out.
Shannen

> It takes me ages to get money for everything.
Ayup.  I agree.

> 
> Jörgen
> 
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun 21 05:21:03 2001
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From: Stephen Andersen <SAndersen@advan-tek.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 08:17:16 -0400
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I'm new to the list and this is my first
post, so be nice to me please!!!

I have been looking at PCMCIA cards for data 
acquisition and the news is not good.  
Basically I have been finding that a decent
entry level card is going to run $450-$700 depending
on number of channels and bits.

At some level, for what I am working on, it is 
a "gotta have", but the dollars are starting to 
add up fast!!!

Steve

Stephen M. Andersen, P.E.                              (302) 326-6405
Technical Director                                    FAX  (302) 326-6401
AdvanTek International, LLC                     Cell   (302) 547-9842
56 Read's Way                               andersen@Advan-Tek.com
New Castle, DE 19720


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of Andris Skulte
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 10:59 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
> 
> 
> > A few of my friends work at the engine lab at volvo, they 
> find it very
> > amusing to spend hours listening to knock and checking in
> > cylinder pressure
> > plots.
> 
> Have any of you ever used the Optrand PSI-plug pressure transducers
> (http://www.optrand.com)? They take your spark plug, EDM a 
> small passage and
> add a  fitting for the optical sensor. The transducers have 
> ranges from
> 0-70, 100, or 200 bar, and are linear for a 50kHz response 
> with a 0.5 to 5V
> output. The price is still expensive for DIY'ers, but not 
> unobtainable like
> Kistler's. Optrand charges $200us for the plug machining, and 
> $600ish for
> the conditioning module/fiber/sensor. I'd like to get a PCMCIA data
> acquisition card for some testing (basic pressures and temperatures, I
> figure an 8 channel 12 bit 100k would fit the bill). Are there any
> recommendations? I'm not super familiar with this, as I've 
> just used the
> generic setups in the school control systems lab a few years ago.
> 
> ------------------
> Andris Skulte
> Skulte Performance Designs
> Z28tt-89 IROC T56 DFI Twin Turbo
> http://www.skulte.com
> 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> --------------
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" 
> (without the quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to 
> majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> 
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun 21 06:37:49 2001
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From: "Mark S. Riley" <turbotuneusltd@triad.rr.com>
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References: <796F43FD3E3FD511B78C00902785BE7A02C7F9@ADVANTEKEXCH01>
Subject: Re: SpeedPro Tuning
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 09:41:17 -0400
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the difference between the men and the boys is the price of the toys. always
has been, always will be.  If it didn't cost a little more than was
comfortable, would it be as much fun? :))    later, Mark...... out looking
for a few sponsors for the latest toy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen Andersen" <SAndersen@advan-tek.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 8:17 AM
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning


> I'm new to the list and this is my first
> post, so be nice to me please!!!
>
> I have been looking at PCMCIA cards for data
> acquisition and the news is not good.
> Basically I have been finding that a decent
> entry level card is going to run $450-$700 depending
> on number of channels and bits.
>
> At some level, for what I am working on, it is
> a "gotta have", but the dollars are starting to
> add up fast!!!
>
> Steve
>
> Stephen M. Andersen, P.E.                              (302) 326-6405
> Technical Director                                    FAX  (302) 326-6401
> AdvanTek International, LLC                     Cell   (302) 547-9842
> 56 Read's Way                               andersen@Advan-Tek.com
> New Castle, DE 19720
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> > Behalf Of Andris Skulte
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 10:59 PM
> > To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
> >
> >
> > > A few of my friends work at the engine lab at volvo, they
> > find it very
> > > amusing to spend hours listening to knock and checking in
> > > cylinder pressure
> > > plots.
> >
> > Have any of you ever used the Optrand PSI-plug pressure transducers
> > (http://www.optrand.com)? They take your spark plug, EDM a
> > small passage and
> > add a  fitting for the optical sensor. The transducers have
> > ranges from
> > 0-70, 100, or 200 bar, and are linear for a 50kHz response
> > with a 0.5 to 5V
> > output. The price is still expensive for DIY'ers, but not
> > unobtainable like
> > Kistler's. Optrand charges $200us for the plug machining, and
> > $600ish for
> > the conditioning module/fiber/sensor. I'd like to get a PCMCIA data
> > acquisition card for some testing (basic pressures and temperatures, I
> > figure an 8 channel 12 bit 100k would fit the bill). Are there any
> > recommendations? I'm not super familiar with this, as I've
> > just used the
> > generic setups in the school control systems lab a few years ago.
> >
> > ------------------
> > Andris Skulte
> > Skulte Performance Designs
> > Z28tt-89 IROC T56 DFI Twin Turbo
> > http://www.skulte.com
> >
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------------------
> > --------------
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi"
> > (without the quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
> > majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
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quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun 21 07:13:33 2001
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References: <FFELLMEAKKMHJGCNJEGIGEOGDGAA.jorgen.m.karlsson@home.se>
Subject: Re: SpeedPro Tuning
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 16:13:06 +0200
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Wow... if you have 14% sweep during shifts and 250ms response time, wrong
mixture correction in ALS and rev limiter situations and a closed-loop
controller that oscillate up to a second (I'm not sure I understood
correctly) I'd suggest not using closed loop WBO2 with this ECU for anything
but dyno tuning.

That said, a misfire will always read lean.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jörgen Karlsson" <jorgen.m.karlsson@home.se>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 3:35 AM
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning




> I wonder if anyone remembers like I do from past posts, about a guy that
> was using a SpeedPro, but noticed it getting thrown off by bogus
> situations like, a plug wire breaks, that cylinder stops firing, the HC's
> in the exhaust header rise, fooling the SEFI8LO into thinking it is too
> rich, so it trys to compensate, leading to a dangerous leanment for the
> engine overall?

I have had my chare of broken plug wires, it haven't caused any big problems
for the speedpro. That is strange since the revlimiter makes a mess.

Detonation on the other hand is a big problem, the reading are all over the
place when that happens. If the o2correction is big when this happens there
can be a nasty oscillation. The biggest problems occur when the next shift
occurs before the oscillation has ended.

When we had a problem with overrun on first gear there was often a
detonation when the second gear dropped in (what do I expect with tree
trigger pulses per rpm?). The overrun often caused the wrong mixture, then
the detonation came and messed things up further. The oscillation continued
for a second or so, but third gear came in before the oscillation was over
most of the time. If the mixture was lean then there could be a detonation
right after the shift of the same reason as there often was a detonation at
the first to second gear shift.

For the o2 to work the rev limiter must be soft touch fuel, since sequential
injection is needed for this and I don't think that even the sequential
speedpro can do this there is a problem. The revlimiter must not be tripped
at any cost. If it is you must run open loop. We did some experimenting with
an antilag system before we installed the speedpro, when we first activated
it after intalling the speedpro the engine didn't respond as planned ;) We
just weren't thinking.

One other problem is that the speedpro assume that the current o2 correction
is correct after the shift too. Lets say that we blindly follow the
+-7%rule. At 4000rpm the correcton add 7% fuel and at the shift at 5500 it
subtract 7%. After the shift the ecu will make the mixture 14% to lean, that
is not good. As long as there is not a detonation because of this the
mixture will be back where it belong a quarter of a second later, but if it
detonates we could have a problem.

I think that the engine acceleration is the problem, when the car shift more
then once a second closed loop does not work that well. I will probably tune
a turbo civic next month, I wonder how it works with an engine that is
extremely sensitive to mixture variations. A manual transmission will also
be interesting.

Jörgen

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun 21 07:23:22 2001
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From: "Flanagan, Steve" <Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Pressure sensors????
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 10:22:22 -0400
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I am looking to put a pressure sensor on the exhaust side of my turbo and
also on the Comp side of the turbo before my intercooler.  I do not want to
pay my data recorder company top dollar for one of his sensors  ($140 TO
$190 / SENSOR).

Does anyone have any info on reliable and cost efficient pressure sensors.
Figure I will
need at least a 40-50 PSI sensor on the comp side and on the exhaust side,
probably need a 100 PSI sensor to be safe, not sure what kind of back
pressure exists but better off with a bigger scale then too small.

My data recorder has a 0-4 V (analog) input.

Thanks,


SF
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun 21 07:58:15 2001
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From: "David Gregory" <dcg1174@tntech.edu>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 09:37:04 -0500
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Well, i've no direct experience with either of these, but they might be
worth a try

http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/data/ck2000.htm

this a kit made by a company in australia here:
http://kitsrus.com/kits.html#k118

you can download the software to run with the unit and try it out.

and this an already assembled unit that seems to be very similar, but more
$$$

http://www.ramseyelectronics.com/cgi-bin/commerce.exe?preadd=action&key=ADC1
1

perhaps the software would be better on the more "comercial" unit... but i'm
not sure.  the company that makes the unit is in the UK, and they offer
downloads too: http://www.picotech.com/data-acquisition.html  you can order
it direct and shipping might come out cheaper... but it might take a while
too with the economy shipping from UK.

I hope that helps

david




-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Stephen Andersen
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 7:17 AM
To: 'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning


I'm new to the list and this is my first
post, so be nice to me please!!!

I have been looking at PCMCIA cards for data
acquisition and the news is not good.
Basically I have been finding that a decent
entry level card is going to run $450-$700 depending
on number of channels and bits.

At some level, for what I am working on, it is
a "gotta have", but the dollars are starting to
add up fast!!!

Steve


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun 21 08:18:43 2001
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Subject: Re: Pressure sensors????
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I used just a fuel pressure gauge tapped into the turbine inlet - you might
try an oil pressure or fuel pressure sender - range is right.  3 bar MAP
sensor would work, too, at least up to 30#.  Use enough copper tubing so's
hot stuff does not get to the sender or gauge.  Back pressure (exhaust)
*may* exceed 2.5x boost pressure, should run more like slightly over boost
pressure.  My readings were just 'eyeballed', not datalogged. 

Barry

At 10:22 AM 6/21/01 -0400, Flanagan, Steve wrote:
>I am looking to put a pressure sensor on the exhaust side of my turbo and
>also on the Comp side of the turbo before my intercooler.  I do not want to
>pay my data recorder company top dollar for one of his sensors  ($140 TO
>$190 / SENSOR).
>
>Does anyone have any info on reliable and cost efficient pressure sensors.
>Figure I will
>need at least a 40-50 PSI sensor on the comp side and on the exhaust side,
>probably need a 100 PSI sensor to be safe, not sure what kind of back
>pressure exists but better off with a bigger scale then too small.
>
>My data recorder has a 0-4 V (analog) input.
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>SF
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	Hi group,

		I have been lurking for the past few weeks. I have a car
that I would like to convert to TPI.  

	I am a fair mechanic and am looking for any information (books,
websites etc.) that can detail the conversion of a carbureted small
block Chevy to TPI.  I have a 1986 intake manifold with fuel rails and
injectors that I would like to use. I know I need a wiring harness and
ECM, sensors and fuel pump. What I don't know is which ones to use, what
else I might need and where to start.

	Any and all information is greatly appreciated. I would even
share the start to finish pictures and documentation I plan on
generating.

	Seeker.
	1979 Z28
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun 21 16:09:19 2001
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Go to www.jagsthatrun.com and have a look at the TPI and TBI swapping
book.  There's also a reference/book listing on the diy-efi WWW page,
and lots of good info on the gmecm page.

--steve

Simon Powell wrote:
> 
>         Hi group,
> 
>                 I have been lurking for the past few weeks. I have a car
> that I would like to convert to TPI.
> 
>         I am a fair mechanic and am looking for any information (books,
> websites etc.) that can detail the conversion of a carbureted small
> block Chevy to TPI.  I have a 1986 intake manifold with fuel rails and
> injectors that I would like to use. I know I need a wiring harness and
> ECM, sensors and fuel pump. What I don't know is which ones to use, what
> else I might need and where to start.
> 
>         Any and all information is greatly appreciated. I would even
> share the start to finish pictures and documentation I plan on
> generating.
> 
>         Seeker.
>         1979 Z28
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun 21 19:12:17 2001
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>
> Wow... if you have 14% sweep during shifts and 250ms response time, wrong
> mixture correction in ALS and rev limiter situations and a closed-loop
> controller that oscillate up to a second (I'm not sure I understood
> correctly) I'd suggest not using closed loop WBO2 with this ECU
> for anything
> but dyno tuning.
>
> That said, a misfire will always read lean.

It is not a 250ms response time, it respond a lot quicker then that but
overshoots a bit. After 250ms everything is stable again. I still think that
they should work with it more, maybe there is an upgraded firmware.

The one second oscillation i was talking about requires pretty extreme
conditions to occur. By limiting the maximum correction to +-10% the problem
is almost gone.

All these problems can probably be minimized by changing the PID parameters
for the closed loop operation. But since the problems only can be reproduced
on the strip and the car is a bit sensitive we can't fool around with it.
Detonation is usually not a problem since we run water injection. If we
wanted to chase this problem we would have to start by producing detonation
and I don't feel that it would be a good idea ;)

Jörgen

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jun 25 08:32:47 2001
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Since a couple weeks ago, when the list server was taken down for a few
days, I've noticed that some posts are either being lost, or only going
out to part of the list. I know this from (1) not seeing some of my own
posts reflected back to me, but also (2) getting private responses back
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they're going out to *some*), and finally (3) replies appearing on the
list to other's posts I never saw in the first place.

Has anyone else had these problems, or should I look for the culprit on
my end? I've found my Juno account to be fairly reliable in the past, but
who knows... Tnx

Brian
________________________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jun 25 10:36:25 2001
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Yes, I had several days when I got no posts too.

Ron


At 08:35 AM 6/25/01 -0700, you wrote:
>Since a couple weeks ago, when the list server was taken down for a few
>days, I've noticed that some posts are either being lost, or only going
>out to part of the list. I know this from (1) not seeing some of my own
>posts reflected back to me, but also (2) getting private responses back
>from posts that I made but didn't see coming back myself (so I know
>they're going out to *some*), and finally (3) replies appearing on the
>list to other's posts I never saw in the first place.
>
>Has anyone else had these problems, or should I look for the culprit on
>my end? I've found my Juno account to be fairly reliable in the past, but
>who knows... Tnx
>
>Brian


Ron Schroeder
WD8CDH
E. E. S.
wd8cdh@bnl.gov
rjs@bnl.gov
ron@112motors.com
631 344-4561 Day
631 286-5677 Nite
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jun 25 12:25:13 2001
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Subject: Sensors, Linear Position  and Acceleration
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Does anyone know af a cheap place to purchase these sensors?  I need them for 
some data acquisition and all I can find is really expensive stuff from Pi, and 
Alpha.  Also does anyone know of a cheap place to purchase Bosch sensors?  
Thanks, 



Scott Flanagan
GT Motorsports Powertrain Leader
www.me.gatech.edu/gtmotorsports/
Georgia Institute of Technology
Mechanical Engineering Undergraduate

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jun 25 12:47:01 2001
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Analog devices makes several solid state accelerometers.  They'll
require some minimal work on your part to make a circuit, and you'll
have to  make a rugged housing if you need one.  But they're in the $20
range and you should be able to get a couple for free as samples.  I was
able to a couple years ago.

--steve

gte861v@prism.gatech.edu wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know af a cheap place to purchase these sensors?  I need them for
> some data acquisition and all I can find is really expensive stuff from Pi, and
> Alpha.  Also does anyone know of a cheap place to purchase Bosch sensors?
> Thanks,

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jun 25 13:08:53 2001
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From: Barry Tisdale <btisdale@cybersol.com>
Subject: Re: Sensors, Linear Position  and Acceleration
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Crossbow sells an accelerometer - I use one for tuning - around $100, IIRC.

Barry

At 03:24 PM 6/25/01 -0400, you wrote:
>Does anyone know af a cheap place to purchase these sensors?  I need them
for 
>some data acquisition and all I can find is really expensive stuff from
Pi, and 
>Alpha.  Also does anyone know of a cheap place to purchase Bosch sensors?  
>Thanks, 
>
>
>
>Scott Flanagan
>GT Motorsports Powertrain Leader
>www.me.gatech.edu/gtmotorsports/
>Georgia Institute of Technology
>Mechanical Engineering Undergraduate
>
>-------------------------------------------------
>Sent through Cyberbuzz- A Server for the Students
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jun 25 15:58:17 2001
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From: "David Hunt" <bamainc@home.com>
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Subject: Re: EGOR progress
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 17:58:44 -0500
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I found the key!  Actually, the wife found it on the end of a cable.

I'd overlooked it in a box I'd already checked.  I'll work on the artwork
tonight.

dh



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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jun 25 16:18:25 2001
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@home.com>
To: <gmecm@diy-efi.org>, <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Oversized EPROM's & Multiple Programs
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 19:18:17 -0700
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To those who are using, or have used, oversized EPROM's that contain =
more than one program image........

Can you simply select between say Program "A" and Program "B" while on =
the fly, or do you have to power/idle down and then switch from one to =
the other?  This would be for a two program solution in place of a =
single 27c256b chip, for a friend who has new young drivers in the =
family (think of it as a sort of valet mode).  Is more than 2 images a =
big hassle in place of a 256 chip?  The selector switch would be a keyed =
Allen Bradley jobbie.

Anyone have any interesting tidbits archived on this topic, on their =
HD's, that they can pass along?  I'm going to dive into the list =
archives over the next few nights, but any direct pointers would =
certainly help a bunch.

Walt.

------=_NextPart_000_00BF_01C0FDAB.96F8DA20
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4616.200" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>To those who are using, or have used, =
oversized&nbsp;EPROM's=20
that contain more than one program image........</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Can you simply select between say Program "A" =
and&nbsp;Program=20
"B" while on the fly, or do you have to power/idle down and then switch =
from one=20
to the other?&nbsp; This would be for a two program solution in place of =
a=20
single 27c256b chip,&nbsp;for a friend who has&nbsp;new young drivers in =
the=20
family (think of it as a sort of valet mode).&nbsp; Is more than 2 =
images a big=20
hassle in place of a 256 chip?&nbsp; The selector switch would be a =
keyed Allen=20
Bradley jobbie.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Anyone have any&nbsp;interesting tidbits archived on =
this=20
topic, on their HD's, that they can pass along?&nbsp; I'm going to dive =
into the=20
list archives over the next few nights, but any =
direct&nbsp;pointers&nbsp;would=20
certainly help a bunch.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Walt.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jun 25 17:15:27 2001
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	 Mon, 25 Jun 2001 17:14:49 -0700
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From: "944Technologist" <f_wilk@hotmail.com>
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References: <00c201c0fde6$43a276c0$13b26618@pr1.on.wave.home.com>
Subject: Re: Oversized EPROM's & Multiple Programs
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I have a DME operating with an external switch for 2 different programs =
on a single EPROM. One performance program and a second is the stock =
program. You have to power down to switch programs.

FR Wilk
84 944 Porsche
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Walter Sherwin=20
  To: gmecm@diy-efi.org ; diy_efi@diy-efi.org=20
  Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 7:18 PM
  Subject: Oversized EPROM's & Multiple Programs


  To those who are using, or have used, oversized EPROM's that contain =
more than one program image........

  Can you simply select between say Program "A" and Program "B" while on =
the fly, or do you have to power/idle down and then switch from one to =
the other?  This would be for a two program solution in place of a =
single 27c256b chip, for a friend who has new young drivers in the =
family (think of it as a sort of valet mode).  Is more than 2 images a =
big hassle in place of a 256 chip?  The selector switch would be a keyed =
Allen Bradley jobbie.

  Anyone have any interesting tidbits archived on this topic, on their =
HD's, that they can pass along?  I'm going to dive into the list =
archives over the next few nights, but any direct pointers would =
certainly help a bunch.

  Walt.

------=_NextPart_000_007A_01C0FD9A.89FE28E0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4522.1800" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>I have a DME operating with an external&nbsp;switch for 2 different =

programs on a single EPROM. One performance program and a second is the =
stock=20
program. You have to power down to switch programs.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>FR Wilk</DIV>
<DIV>84 944 Porsche</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A title=3Dwsherwin@home.com href=3D"mailto:wsherwin@home.com">Walter =
Sherwin</A>=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dgmecm@diy-efi.org=20
  href=3D"mailto:gmecm@diy-efi.org">gmecm@diy-efi.org</A> ; <A=20
  title=3Ddiy_efi@diy-efi.org=20
  href=3D"mailto:diy_efi@diy-efi.org">diy_efi@diy-efi.org</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, June 25, 2001 =
7:18 PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Oversized EPROM's =
&amp; Multiple=20
  Programs</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>To those who are using, or have used, =
oversized&nbsp;EPROM's=20
  that contain more than one program image........</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Can you simply select between say Program "A"=20
  and&nbsp;Program "B" while on the fly, or do you have to power/idle =
down and=20
  then switch from one to the other?&nbsp; This would be for a two =
program=20
  solution in place of a single 27c256b chip,&nbsp;for a friend who =
has&nbsp;new=20
  young drivers in the family (think of it as a sort of valet =
mode).&nbsp; Is=20
  more than 2 images a big hassle in place of a 256 chip?&nbsp; The =
selector=20
  switch would be a keyed Allen Bradley jobbie.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Anyone have any&nbsp;interesting tidbits archived =
on this=20
  topic, on their HD's, that they can pass along?&nbsp; I'm going to =
dive into=20
  the list archives over the next few nights, but any=20
  direct&nbsp;pointers&nbsp;would certainly help a bunch.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Walt.</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jun 25 17:49:25 2001
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From: "=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Magnus_P=E5lsson?=" <magnus.palsson@vok.lth.se>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>, <gmecm@diy-efi.org>
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 02:52:20 +0200
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Subject: Bosch Motronic 4.1 ecu
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Hi All!

I don't know if there's someone out there who can help me getting 
started on this;
I own a 1988 Opel Ascona (bought in Sweden). It seems to be 
equipped with a Bosch Motronic 4.1 ecu (incl. L-jetronic), part 
number is:

Bosch: 0 261 200 104
GM: 90 280 357

I know a bit about how to make the hardware needed to 
communicate with this ecu, but not much about the software. (I 
assume it's 8192 baud, not 160). How do I get info on the 
communication protocol, i.e. how do I communicate with it? How 
do I get access to the data stream, the errorcodes, make 
diagnostic tests etc, what is possible to do with it at all? Is there any
database/magasine etc. on the web where these things can be found? In
short, is there anyone out there who could help me in any way, or point me
in a suitable direction to get the info, it would be very appreciated!

(I  know, it's not a performance car etc, I do this mostly out of 
interrest, it all started with a fault in the injection system and the
more I read the more I realised could be done. I'd love getting up the
datastream on my palm during driving...!)

Best to you all, Magnus
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jun 25 18:08:23 2001
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Subject: Re: Oversized EPROM's & Multiple Programs
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 21:08:59 -0700
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Thanks.  What's a DME?  When you say power down, do you mean key-off
engine-off, then switch, then key-on and run, or simply reduce power and
switch on the fly?  Appreciate the feedback.  My bud says thanks.......



>I have a DME operating with an external switch for 2 different programs on
a single EPROM. One performance program and a second is the >stock program.
You have to power down to switch programs.

>FR Wilk
>84 944 Porsche


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jun 25 20:53:15 2001
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From: "John Walker" <dakotart98@hotmail.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <MABBLIHBGGBFGJCJJMLDOELOCCAA.r71chevy@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: SpeedPro Tuning
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 22:38:23 -0500
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Bob, I checked out Turbobuick.com and they have a lot of good info on
SpeedPro...thanks for the tip!

John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 9:02 PM
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning


> Boy, the mental picture of your truck just changed radically.  This sounds
> like a great toy.  Hope all goes well.  have you tried talking with any of
> the turbo Regal guys (www.gnttype.org http://turbobuick.com/messagebd/)?
my
> understanding is that there are a LOT of them running the SpeedPro.
>
> Good luck, let us know it goes.
>
> BW
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of John Walker
> Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 2:12 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
>
>
> Valid question Bob.  They truck is pretty well modified currently.  I
enjoy
> drag racing, which is the truck's primary use and a nice weekend drive.
So
> basically, it is a toy. :) I'm currrently running an ATI P600H
supercharger
> with Intercooler, Precision Industries 3400 stall converter, 28" E/T
> streets, headers & exhaust, MSD 6BTM and Blaster 3, Trans-Go shift kit and
a
> few other goodies.  Electric fan and 14psi are coming with the speedpro.
I
> reached a big hurdle in the project after I put in the converter and E/T
> streets.  When I stall the truck up to about 2000K rpm (or anywhere
between
> 1400 and 3000) and try to flash the converter and launch hard, the truck
> just flatlines.  I verified that the timing was infact falling rapidly
> towards 0 degrees when this happens.  I've spoken with one other person
that
> is researching the same problem.  It appears to be some form of torque
> management (i.e. too much engine speed, no vehicle speed cut spark
advance)
> or something to that effect.  I have tried many fixes but nothing has
> worked. On the flip side...an off idle launch around 800rpm will send the
> E/T streets into smoke. Unfortunatelly I have spoke to many people
including
> a couple of active Chrysler race teams, computer programmers and no one
can
> confirm the existance of torque management or the problem.  I have made
> attempts to acquire an internal engineers contact info...but have had no
> luck.
>
> So...enter SpeedPro.  My philosophy is that if the computer is making an
> active decision to cut timing....then SpeedPro will cure the problem since
> it will be making all Fuel and Timing decisions.  I researched AutoTronic,
> Hal-Tech, Electromotive, SpeedPro, and Accell before making my final
> decision.  SpeedPro was proven and the less intrusive harness was
available.
>   Besides the cost, I think it will work well.  So...if I can race
> again...i've succeded.  But a modest horsepower gain should be an added
> bonus.  Plus heads and cam are next and that would surely throw the stock
> computer for a loop.  Their are also a few hiccups the the Supercharger
has
> introduced to the truck that the SpeedPro will fix (stock 1-bar
incorrectly
> reads 30" of vaccum under boost causing a surge in part throttle accel).
> Plus I can ditch the FMU and run a constant fuel pressure and change pulse
> width with boost and rpm.
>
> If your interested in more details check out my website at
> http://www.DakotaRacing.com
>
> later,
>
> John
>
>
> >From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
> >Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> >To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> >Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
> >Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 20:04:20 -0700
> >
> >John,
> >
> >If you don't mind me asking why go through all the hassle for 20 HP on a
> >truck?  are you planning on putting a blower on it, or NOS or is this
just
> >a
> >toy?  just curious is all.
> >
> >BW
> >
> ><SNIP>
> >
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Jun 25 23:29:37 2001
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Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 23:29:12 -0700
From: k1drbar <k1drbar@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Oversized EPROM's & Multiple Programs
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org, gmecm@diy-efi.org
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... assuming that all that you are doing is running the same code with different maps, it could well
be possible to change programs on the fly ... but you would really have to understand the circuit
and make sure that the address line that switched banks only changed at an appropriate time.
Perhaps it would be as simple as a register ... here again, assuming that the code was identical
other than the maps.  All that said, you might want to have some means of not switching the map
except when the ECU is executing the idle loop ... which would take a bit more hardware complexity
...

... what I do is to use a latch that samples the state of the selected binary when the ECU is
powered up.  To switch to a different binary you need to shut the car off and restart it.  In my
case there really isn't a need to be able to switch the code on the fly ...

HTH!
Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)

----- Original Message -----

To those who are using, or have used, oversized EPROM's that contain more than one program
image........

Can you simply select between say Program "A" and Program "B" while on the fly, or do you have to
power/idle down and then switch from one to the other?  This would be for a two program solution in
place of a single 27c256b chip, for a friend who has new young drivers in the family (think of it as
a sort of valet mode).  Is more than 2 images a big hassle in place of a 256 chip?  The selector
switch would be a keyed Allen Bradley jobbie.

Anyone have any interesting tidbits archived on this topic, on their HD's, that they can pass along?
I'm going to dive into the list archives over the next few nights, but any direct pointers would
certainly help a bunch.

Walt.


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 26 00:38:33 2001
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From: "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Re: Oversized EPROM's & Multiple Programs
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 08:36:47 +0100
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_006A_01C0FE1B.2303D640
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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I do the same thing; without delving into the hardware and including =
some logic, you'll need to switch off the engine, select the program =
position you want to run by switching the state of the higher address =
line on the Eprom, and restart.

Cheers

Rich
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Walter Sherwin <wsherwin@home.com>
    To: gmecm@diy-efi.org <gmecm@diy-efi.org>; diy_efi@diy-efi.org =
<diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
    Date: 26 June 2001 00:21
    Subject: Oversized EPROM's & Multiple Programs
   =20
   =20
    To those who are using, or have used, oversized EPROM's that contain =
more than one program image........
    =20
    Can you simply select between say Program "A" and Program "B" while =
on the fly, or do you have to power/idle down and then switch from one =
to the other?  This would be for a two program solution in place of a =
single 27c256b chip, for a friend who has new young drivers in the =
family (think of it as a sort of valet mode).  Is more than 2 images a =
big hassle in place of a 256 chip?  The selector switch would be a keyed =
Allen Bradley jobbie.
    =20
    Anyone have any interesting tidbits archived on this topic, on their =
HD's, that they can pass along?  I'm going to dive into the list =
archives over the next few nights, but any direct pointers would =
certainly help a bunch.
    =20
    Walt.

------=_NextPart_000_006A_01C0FE1B.2303D640
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
Transitional//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>

</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I do the same thing; without delving =
into the=20
hardware and including some logic, you'll need to switch off the engine, =
select=20
the program position you want to run by switching the state of the =
higher=20
address line on the Eprom, and restart.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Cheers</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Rich</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Walter Sherwin &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:wsherwin@home.com">wsherwin@home.com</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: =
</B><A=20
    href=3D"mailto:gmecm@diy-efi.org">gmecm@diy-efi.org</A> &lt;<A=20
    href=3D"mailto:gmecm@diy-efi.org">gmecm@diy-efi.org</A>&gt;; <A=20
    href=3D"mailto:diy_efi@diy-efi.org">diy_efi@diy-efi.org</A> &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:diy_efi@diy-efi.org">diy_efi@diy-efi.org</A>&gt;<BR><B>Dat=
e:=20
    </B>26 June 2001 00:21<BR><B>Subject: </B>Oversized EPROM's &amp; =
Multiple=20
    Programs<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>To those who are using, or have used,=20
    oversized&nbsp;EPROM's that contain more than one program=20
    image........</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Can you simply select between say Program =
&quot;A&quot;=20
    and&nbsp;Program &quot;B&quot; while on the fly, or do you have to=20
    power/idle down and then switch from one to the other?&nbsp; This =
would be=20
    for a two program solution in place of a single 27c256b =
chip,&nbsp;for a=20
    friend who has&nbsp;new young drivers in the family (think of it as =
a sort=20
    of valet mode).&nbsp; Is more than 2 images a big hassle in place of =
a 256=20
    chip?&nbsp; The selector switch would be a keyed Allen Bradley=20
    jobbie.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Anyone have any&nbsp;interesting tidbits =
archived on this=20
    topic, on their HD's, that they can pass along?&nbsp; I'm going to =
dive into=20
    the list archives over the next few nights, but any=20
    direct&nbsp;pointers&nbsp;would certainly help a bunch.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Walt.</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_006A_01C0FE1B.2303D640--

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 26 00:47:50 2001
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Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 08:42:45 +0000
From: Mike Blakey <mike.blakey@baesystems.com>
Subject: Re: Oversized EPROM's & Multiple Programs
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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I have done a similar scheme with a machine tool controller. Firstly, de-bounce the 
switch and then AND it with the chip select for the memory. Use this signal to 
address the high bit, and effectively switch banks on the fly.



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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 26 00:59:31 2001
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Subject: Re: Oversized EPROM's & Multiple Programs
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 01:00:13 -0700
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DME stands for Digital Motor Electronics and is the same thing as ECU.

To go from 27256 to a 27512, pin 1 goes from "Vpp" which is used only in
programming to "A15". You will have to verify that the socket pin 1 is
connected to "A15". Your goal is to add an external switch that changes pin
1 from 0V to 5V. This gives you 2 banks of 256K to run different programs.
If you need to change on the fly, rig the same switch to interrupt power to
the ECU until after the bank switching has taken place.

I have to kill the ignition to switch programs. I was on an uphill grade
with the wrong gas and started to knock. So I turned off the ignition,
flipped from performance to stock program, and then restarted. 5 seconds
total. The only time I wanted to switch while on the move.

Best of luck,

FR Wilk
84 944 Porsche
______________________________________

From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@home.com>
> Thanks.  What's a DME?  When you say power down, do you mean key-off
> engine-off, then switch, then key-on and run, or simply reduce power and
> switch on the fly?  Appreciate the feedback.  My bud says thanks.......
>
>
>
> >I have a DME operating with an external switch for 2 different programs
on
> a single EPROM. One performance program and a second is the >stock
program.
> You have to power down to switch programs.
>
> >FR Wilk
> >84 944 Porsche
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 26 10:11:40 2001
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Yes, I also had several days when I received no posts.

Charlie GALLOPS

Ron Schroeder wrote:
> 
> Yes, I had several days when I got no posts too.
> 
> Ron
> 
> At 08:35 AM 6/25/01 -0700, you wrote:
> >Since a couple weeks ago, when the list server was taken down for a few
> >days, I've noticed that some posts are either being lost, or only going
> >out to part of the list. I know this from (1) not seeing some of my own
> >posts reflected back to me, but also (2) getting private responses back
> >from posts that I made but didn't see coming back myself (so I know
> >they're going out to *some*), and finally (3) replies appearing on the
> >list to other's posts I never saw in the first place.
> >
> >Has anyone else had these problems, or should I look for the culprit on
> >my end? I've found my Juno account to be fairly reliable in the past, but
> >who knows... Tnx
> >
> >Brian
> 
> Ron Schroeder
> WD8CDH
> E. E. S.
> wd8cdh@bnl.gov
> rjs@bnl.gov
> ron@112motors.com
> 631 344-4561 Day
> 631 286-5677 Nite
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Subject: Re: Be famous among gearheads!
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Bob Wooten wrote:
> 
> On the flip side of this subject, has anyone seen the Ultimate BB software?
> 
> Others have thoughts on it?

Yes, UBB sucks.  Well, for a web based system, it is pretty good.  In
comparison with pre-AlGoreInternet solutions (email lists & Usenet
newsgroups), it is very poor.

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 26 12:25:47 2001
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Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 14:21:37 -0500
From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
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Subject: Re: Be famous among gearheads!
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Forgot to answer this...  We looked at things like that last time,
before we got the new server.  None of the ones we looked at offered the
flexibility we get from running our own server.  The cost aspect is a
problem also.

--steve

Bob Wooten wrote:
> 
> On the flip side of this subject, has anyone seen the Ultimate BB software?
> The 2nd Gen Camaro site uses it (among others) & it has a double boat load
> of great features. two of the features that I like the best is that all I
> have to do is to be on the WWW to access it.  & the other is the search
> ability.  I think that the down side to this though is $$$$.  I travel a
> bunch for my company & this makes keeping up with my hobby, very convenient.
> If you have not checked it out please do.

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 26 12:30:26 2001
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From: "Jeff Bromberger" <blownz@home.com>
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References: <MABBLIHBGGBFGJCJJMLDEEMGCCAA.r71chevy@earthlink.net> <3B360BEA.6FADB96C@cruzers.com>
Subject: has anyone tried this?
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 14:37:18 -0500
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I'm getting ready to add an aftermarket computer to my honda civic... my
concern is not the WOT tuning but rather the drivability/fuel economy type
stuff... i was thinking that it would be really handy to have a tool that
would log conditions in the current factory PCM to build a profile of the
fuel and timing maps... i'm picturing two inductive probes: one for spark
plug wire #1 and one for injector wire #1... beyond that you'd only need the
map sensor signal.  the software that is monitoring these signals/pulses
could fill in the standard 2D tables for fuel and spark and give you a big
headstart when you go to tuning the aftermarket efi system "from scratch"...
does anyone make anything like this?  I could definitely write the software,
but beyond a few basic PIC projects, i'm not that up on the hardware end of
things... though i imagine the hardware would be fairly simple...  thoughts?

thanks,
jeff

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 26 13:13:30 2001
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Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 21:11:38 +0100 (GMT Daylight Time)
From: Guy Hill <guy@hts.demon.co.uk>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Be famous among gearheads!
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Hi Steve

Did you get my email to you re the se7ens list?

Steve Potter (list admin) does run his own server www.se7ens.net. He
also hosts several other domains as well. I'm not sure what software it
uses but it works, and very well too. Have a poke around from the above
address. He runs several lists all from there.

Cheers
Guy

On Tue, 26 Jun 2001, steve ravet wrote:

> Forgot to answer this...  We looked at things like that last time,
> before we got the new server.  None of the ones we looked at offered the
> flexibility we get from running our own server.  The cost aspect is a
> problem also.
> 
> --steve
> 
> Bob Wooten wrote:
> > 
> > On the flip side of this subject, has anyone seen the Ultimate BB software?
> > The 2nd Gen Camaro site uses it (among others) & it has a double boat load
> > of great features. two of the features that I like the best is that all I
> > have to do is to be on the WWW to access it.  & the other is the search
> > ability.  I think that the down side to this though is $$$$.  I travel a
> > bunch for my company & this makes keeping up with my hobby, very convenient.
> > If you have not checked it out please do.
> 
> -- 
> Steve Ravet
> steve.ravet@arm.com
> ARM,Inc.
> www.arm.com
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> 

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 26 13:43:51 2001
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From: "944Technologist" <f_wilk@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: Oversized EPROM's & Multiple Programs
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 13:42:45 -0700
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> You will have to verify that the socket pin 1 is
> connected to "A15".

Correction: You will want to isolate pin 1 from buss "A15" so as not to
interfere with the normal operation of the ECU.

FR Wilk
___________________________

From: "944Technologist"
> DME stands for Digital Motor Electronics and is the same thing as ECU.
>
> To go from 27256 to a 27512, pin 1 goes from "Vpp" which is used only in
> programming to "A15". You will have to verify that the socket pin 1 is
> connected to "A15". Your goal is to add an external switch that changes
pin
> 1 from 0V to 5V. This gives you 2 banks of 256K to run different programs.
> If you need to change on the fly, rig the same switch to interrupt power
to
> the ECU until after the bank switching has taken place.
>
> I have to kill the ignition to switch programs. I was on an uphill grade
> with the wrong gas and started to knock. So I turned off the ignition,
> flipped from performance to stock program, and then restarted. 5 seconds
> total. The only time I wanted to switch while on the move.
>
> Best of luck,
>
> FR Wilk
> 84 944 Porsche
> ______________________________________
>
> From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@home.com>
> > Thanks.  What's a DME?  When you say power down, do you mean key-off
> > engine-off, then switch, then key-on and run, or simply reduce power and
> > switch on the fly?  Appreciate the feedback.  My bud says thanks.......
> >
> >
> >
> > >I have a DME operating with an external switch for 2 different programs
> on
> > a single EPROM. One performance program and a second is the >stock
> program.
> > You have to power down to switch programs.
> >
> > >FR Wilk
> > >84 944 Porsche
> >
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 26 15:01:58 2001
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Subject: Re: has anyone tried this?
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 18:02:07 -0400
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I'd get a spare ecm, and or the harness ends and use the one you have, and
build an ecm bench.  That will get you thru all but the timing.
Then on the timing you'll need to monitor crank posistion, and #1s ignition
pulse, then with the time difference figure out the timing.

The aftermarket ecms are built to be easy to program, and get right.    You
very well might spend more time with this then just actually doing the
aftermarket programming.

The ecm bench will give you the coolant temp corrections, air temp (if
applicable), and would give some idea about accleration enrichments.
Bruce




----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Bromberger" <blownz@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 3:37 PM
Subject: has anyone tried this?


> I'm getting ready to add an aftermarket computer to my honda civic... my
> concern is not the WOT tuning but rather the drivability/fuel economy type
> stuff... i was thinking that it would be really handy to have a tool that
> would log conditions in the current factory PCM to build a profile of the
> fuel and timing maps... i'm picturing two inductive probes: one for spark
> plug wire #1 and one for injector wire #1... beyond that you'd only need
the
> map sensor signal.  the software that is monitoring these signals/pulses
> could fill in the standard 2D tables for fuel and spark and give you a big
> headstart when you go to tuning the aftermarket efi system "from
scratch"...
> does anyone make anything like this?  I could definitely write the
software,
> but beyond a few basic PIC projects, i'm not that up on the hardware end
of
> things... though i imagine the hardware would be fairly simple...
thoughts?
>
> thanks,
> jeff
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 26 19:06:57 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 19:06:54 -0700
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Cool, glad I can be some help some times.

BW

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of John Walker
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 8:38 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: SpeedPro Tuning


Bob, I checked out Turbobuick.com and they have a lot of good info on
SpeedPro...thanks for the tip!

John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 9:02 PM
Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning


> Boy, the mental picture of your truck just changed radically.  This sounds
> like a great toy.  Hope all goes well.  have you tried talking with any of
> the turbo Regal guys (www.gnttype.org http://turbobuick.com/messagebd/)?
my
> understanding is that there are a LOT of them running the SpeedPro.
>
> Good luck, let us know it goes.
>
> BW
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of John Walker
> Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 2:12 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
>
>
> Valid question Bob.  They truck is pretty well modified currently.  I
enjoy
> drag racing, which is the truck's primary use and a nice weekend drive.
So
> basically, it is a toy. :) I'm currrently running an ATI P600H
supercharger
> with Intercooler, Precision Industries 3400 stall converter, 28" E/T
> streets, headers & exhaust, MSD 6BTM and Blaster 3, Trans-Go shift kit and
a
> few other goodies.  Electric fan and 14psi are coming with the speedpro.
I
> reached a big hurdle in the project after I put in the converter and E/T
> streets.  When I stall the truck up to about 2000K rpm (or anywhere
between
> 1400 and 3000) and try to flash the converter and launch hard, the truck
> just flatlines.  I verified that the timing was infact falling rapidly
> towards 0 degrees when this happens.  I've spoken with one other person
that
> is researching the same problem.  It appears to be some form of torque
> management (i.e. too much engine speed, no vehicle speed cut spark
advance)
> or something to that effect.  I have tried many fixes but nothing has
> worked. On the flip side...an off idle launch around 800rpm will send the
> E/T streets into smoke. Unfortunatelly I have spoke to many people
including
> a couple of active Chrysler race teams, computer programmers and no one
can
> confirm the existance of torque management or the problem.  I have made
> attempts to acquire an internal engineers contact info...but have had no
> luck.
>
> So...enter SpeedPro.  My philosophy is that if the computer is making an
> active decision to cut timing....then SpeedPro will cure the problem since
> it will be making all Fuel and Timing decisions.  I researched AutoTronic,
> Hal-Tech, Electromotive, SpeedPro, and Accell before making my final
> decision.  SpeedPro was proven and the less intrusive harness was
available.
>   Besides the cost, I think it will work well.  So...if I can race
> again...i've succeded.  But a modest horsepower gain should be an added
> bonus.  Plus heads and cam are next and that would surely throw the stock
> computer for a loop.  Their are also a few hiccups the the Supercharger
has
> introduced to the truck that the SpeedPro will fix (stock 1-bar
incorrectly
> reads 30" of vaccum under boost causing a surge in part throttle accel).
> Plus I can ditch the FMU and run a constant fuel pressure and change pulse
> width with boost and rpm.
>
> If your interested in more details check out my website at
> http://www.DakotaRacing.com
>
> later,
>
> John
>
>
> >From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
> >Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> >To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> >Subject: RE: SpeedPro Tuning
> >Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 20:04:20 -0700
> >
> >John,
> >
> >If you don't mind me asking why go through all the hassle for 20 HP on a
> >truck?  are you planning on putting a blower on it, or NOS or is this
just
> >a
> >toy?  just curious is all.
> >
> >BW
> >
> ><SNIP>
> >
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 26 19:21:21 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Be famous among gearheads!
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 19:21:26 -0700
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Boy Ludis, please don't hold back & let us know REALLY how you feel about
it, LOL.

Being a new comer to computer stuff & the web in general this is all new to
me.  I know nothing a 'bout the old BB stuff & mail lists & all. Heck I
don't think that I could find my way around a DOS prompt if I had to.
Personally, I think that the UBB is pretty slick.  you can put in pictures,
you can respond from just about anywhere.  there are sort features (that
would kill a TON of repeated questions, for those that love to say, "check
the archives"), there is mail to all.  there are editable posts. & on & on.

Just my2c on the subject.
BW

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Ludis Langens
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2001 8:50 AM
To: gmecm@diy-efi.org
Cc: diy_efi@diy-efi.org; efi_332
Subject: Re: Be famous among gearheads!


Bob Wooten wrote:
>
> On the flip side of this subject, has anyone seen the Ultimate BB
software?
>
> Others have thoughts on it?

Yes, UBB sucks.  Well, for a web based system, it is pretty good.  In
comparison with pre-AlGoreInternet solutions (email lists & Usenet
newsgroups), it is very poor.

--
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 26 19:21:55 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Be famous among gearheads!
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 19:22:00 -0700
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Cool, just an option

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of steve ravet
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 12:22 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Be famous among gearheads!


Forgot to answer this...  We looked at things like that last time,
before we got the new server.  None of the ones we looked at offered the
flexibility we get from running our own server.  The cost aspect is a
problem also.

--steve

Bob Wooten wrote:
>
> On the flip side of this subject, has anyone seen the Ultimate BB
software?
> The 2nd Gen Camaro site uses it (among others) & it has a double boat load
> of great features. two of the features that I like the best is that all I
> have to do is to be on the WWW to access it.  & the other is the search
> ability.  I think that the down side to this though is $$$$.  I travel a
> bunch for my company & this makes keeping up with my hobby, very
convenient.
> If you have not checked it out please do.

--
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Jun 26 20:27:45 2001
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Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 20:27:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: LEIF BERTELSEN <leifbert@yahoo.com>
Subject: Mitsu Starion
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My off line buddy wanted me to ask you guys for
advice.
He bought a 1986 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R new when we
were in college. He had scraped together the cash to
buy it and I never really new how(it was about 16
grand if i remember correctly). Anyway.....He
maintained it meticulously for 100K miles. I replaced
the turbo once. He always had driveability probs with
the thing. These probs have gotten progressively worse
and no one can seem to diagnose. He is adamant about
changing to a new engine management system. I do not
know squat about this but I am a good wrench and will
help in any way I can. Anyone know which way to go
with this thing..... It's a 2.6 four. intercooler with
a cheesy looking throttle body style injection. Port
fuel?......This guy loves this car and wants to run it
forever at any cost.
Thanks.

__________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 27 05:18:04 2001
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Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 08:17:12 EDT
Subject: Re: Mitsu Starion
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I've work on two of these cars in my entire life.
Don't know if it is the rule, but BOTH ran like crap
due to a bad mass airflow sensor.  Ya might want to start there if your symptons warrant it.
Both times the cars idled like sh*t and gas milage was way down.
HTH
Mike V

In a message dated Tue, 26 Jun 2001 11:30:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time, LEIF BERTELSEN <leifbert@yahoo.com> writes:

<< My off line buddy wanted me to ask you guys for
advice.
He bought a 1986 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R new when we
were in college. He had scraped together the cash to
buy it and I never really new how(it was about 16
grand if i remember correctly). Anyway.....He
maintained it meticulously for 100K miles. I replaced
the turbo once. He always had driveability probs with
the thing. These probs have gotten progressively worse
and no one can seem to diagnose. He is adamant about
changing to a new engine management system. I do not
know squat about this but I am a good wrench and will
help in any way I can. Anyone know which way to go
with this thing..... It's a 2.6 four. intercooler with
a cheesy looking throttle body style injection. Port
fuel?......This guy loves this car and wants to run it
forever at any cost.
Thanks.

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 >>


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 27 10:53:06 2001
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Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 13:50:46 -0700
From: Stewart Prince <sprince@csun.edu>
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Subject: crystal oscillator
References: <200011171300.FAA14446@hektor.valesh.com> <3A15DE70.4151039F@mwt.net>
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Does anyone know of a source for crystal oscillators which meet automotive temp requirements?  16 Mhz, +/1 50 ppm -40 to 100 deg c

kb4mxo wrote:

> DIY_EFI Digest wrote:
>
> The main reason this data was taken was to set the delay time from 5v to 10v to the heater . My heater circuit is crude but cost
> effective . It uses a 7805 with a zener in the ground leg to set the 10v supply . At startup the micro bypasses the zener to give 5v
> to stop high inrush current then removes the bypass of the zener to apply 10V .  Note at low battery the unit will drop below 10v
> and will reset the micro making it soft start at 5V .  I always have a alternator in the car so this is no problem and in a race car
> we run a separate 15v supply. The main reason I like the regulators I has internal current limit and makes a very cheap heater with
> very low parts count and mounting the regulator is fairly fool proof because  of the popularity in the kit market.
>
> Thanks
>
> Steve
>
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--
STEWART PRINCE

PROFESSOR, MECHANICAL ENGINEERING

CALIFORNIA STATE UNIVERSITY, NORTHRIDGE


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 27 12:11:28 2001
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Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 12:11:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: jeff dilling <jeff_dilling@yahoo.com>
Subject: runnoing ford motor with gm ecm 
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how do you dis. 

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 27 12:37:51 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: runnoing ford motor with gm ecm 
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 15:33:52 -0400
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You don't.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: jeff dilling [mailto:jeff_dilling@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 3:11 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: runnoing ford motor with gm ecm 
> 
> 
> how do you dis. 
> 
> __________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 27 13:24:34 2001
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From: "Kris Weldy" <volvo4life@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <20010627032726.20995.qmail@web4505.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Mitsu Starion
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 15:34:35 -0500
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Mitsu montero heads flow more cfm-and bolt right on...I worked on a number
of these at Takin it to the streets racin-or a to z performance.Good little
cars-more than likely he has a boost leak or some loose vacuum hoses
somewhere-there are a ton of them.
Kris Weldy
----- Original Message -----
From: "LEIF BERTELSEN" <leifbert@yahoo.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 10:27 PM
Subject: Mitsu Starion


> My off line buddy wanted me to ask you guys for
> advice.
> He bought a 1986 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R new when we
> were in college. He had scraped together the cash to
> buy it and I never really new how(it was about 16
> grand if i remember correctly). Anyway.....He
> maintained it meticulously for 100K miles. I replaced
> the turbo once. He always had driveability probs with
> the thing. These probs have gotten progressively worse
> and no one can seem to diagnose. He is adamant about
> changing to a new engine management system. I do not
> know squat about this but I am a good wrench and will
> help in any way I can. Anyone know which way to go
> with this thing..... It's a 2.6 four. intercooler with
> a cheesy looking throttle body style injection. Port
> fuel?......This guy loves this car and wants to run it
> forever at any cost.
> Thanks.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
> http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
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quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 27 13:42:36 2001
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Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 16:43:24 -0400
From: Rob O <rjo1@home.com>
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While I have *never* worked on one of these cars, I do know they are
famous for injector problems. Might be something to look at

Rob_O

LEIF BERTELSEN wrote:
> 
> My off line buddy wanted me to ask you guys for
> advice.
> He bought a 1986 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R new when we
> were in college. He had scraped together the cash to
> buy it and I never really new how(it was about 16
> grand if i remember correctly). Anyway.....He
> maintained it meticulously for 100K miles. I replaced
> the turbo once. He always had driveability probs with
> the thing. These probs have gotten progressively worse
> and no one can seem to diagnose. He is adamant about
> changing to a new engine management system. I do not
> know squat about this but I am a good wrench and will
> help in any way I can. Anyone know which way to go
> with this thing..... It's a 2.6 four. intercooler with
> a cheesy looking throttle body style injection. Port
> fuel?......This guy loves this car and wants to run it
> forever at any cost.
> Thanks.
> 
> __________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 27 16:00:14 2001
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Subject: Re: runnoing ford motor with gm ecm 
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Shhh, please don't tell the guys running the S/C ones with the syty code (in
a 1227749 ecm) that.   IAC is different (but who says you have to use only
one?).  Some kludging needed.
Bruce

From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
Subject: RE: runnoing ford motor with gm ecm
> You don't.

> > From: jeff dilling [mailto:jeff_dilling@yahoo.com]
> > Subject: runnoing ford motor with gm ecm
> > how do you dis.

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 27 16:04:01 2001
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From: "Clare Snyder" <pop1881087@mail.9netave.com>
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Subject: intake plenum size?
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 19:04:25 -0400
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Just a quick question for you fellows - not fuel INJECTION related -
There is an optimal "plenum" volume for an intake system. How is it determined?
Can't remember if it is the volume of one cyl, or twice the volume? Something
like that.
Any formula, calculator, or rule of thum - please e-mail me and/or post to the
group
This is for a carbureted system.

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Jun 27 16:15:15 2001
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Subject: Re: intake plenum size?
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Trial and error.
Period.
It's not just plenum volume, but speed is involved.
The difference in a 4 to 1 hole spacer can be incredible.
Another case of where wood, works.
Make a 1/4, and 1/2 spacers in 1 and 4 hole designs.
then try all 1/4-1/2-3/4 combinations of them.
Bruce

From: "Clare Snyder" <pop1881087@mail.9netave.com>
Subject: intake plenum size?
> Just a quick question for you fellows - not fuel INJECTION related -
> There is an optimal "plenum" volume for an intake system. How is it
determined?
> Can't remember if it is the volume of one cyl, or twice the volume?
Something
> like that.
> Any formula, calculator, or rule of thum - please e-mail me and/or post to
the
> group
> This is for a carbureted system.

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun 28 00:16:25 2001
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Does anyone make a 2 inch gauge that displays ignition timing for an EFI
engine? Getting out on the fender with a timing light at 30MPH is getting
old. 8Ž

FR Wilk
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun 28 04:25:59 2001
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From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: runnoing ford motor with gm ecm 
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And you change sensors, and you change MAP/BP if you have one,etc.
I figured if the guy couldn't spell a four word sentence right, he
wasn't going to do a swap of this nature.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 7:00 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: runnoing ford motor with gm ecm 
> 
> 
> 
> Shhh, please don't tell the guys running the S/C ones with 
> the syty code (in
> a 1227749 ecm) that.   IAC is different (but who says you 
> have to use only
> one?).  Some kludging needed.
> Bruce
> 
> From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> Subject: RE: runnoing ford motor with gm ecm
> > You don't.
> 
> > > From: jeff dilling [mailto:jeff_dilling@yahoo.com]
> > > Subject: runnoing ford motor with gm ecm
> > > how do you dis.
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Jun 28 07:36:05 2001
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From: jeff dilling <jeff_dilling@yahoo.com>
Subject: ford motor with gm ecm 
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I  have the skills too do this just my spelling and
typeing are not up to par. The area I wondering about
is the distributpor singals
--- "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com> wrote:
> And you change sensors, and you change MAP/BP if you
> have one,etc.
> I figured if the guy couldn't spell a four word
> sentence right, he
> wasn't going to do a swap of this nature.
> 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Bruce [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 7:00 PM
> > To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > Subject: Re: runnoing ford motor with gm ecm 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Shhh, please don't tell the guys running the S/C
> ones with 
> > the syty code (in
> > a 1227749 ecm) that.   IAC is different (but who
> says you 
> > have to use only
> > one?).  Some kludging needed.
> > Bruce
> > 
> > From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley@eaton.com>
> > Subject: RE: runnoing ford motor with gm ecm
> > > You don't.
> > 
> > > > From: jeff dilling
> [mailto:jeff_dilling@yahoo.com]
> > > > Subject: runnoing ford motor with gm ecm
> > > > how do you dis.
> > 
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jun 29 09:18:49 2001
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References: <MABBLIHBGGBFGJCJJMLDEEMGCCAA.r71chevy@earthlink.net> <3B360BEA.6FADB96C@cruzers.com> <02fa01c0fe77$69a29580$0500a8c0@intranet.inductionindustries.com>
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You'd need two spark signals if you're trying to measure advance.  On a
distributor engine there should be a reference and spark signal
available at the distributor, no inductive pickup needed.  For DIS you'd
have to tap into the crank sensor and spark signal.  Would be a way of
getting a spark curve out of a non-ecm vehicle to use as a starting
point for an efi conversion.

--steve

Jeff Bromberger wrote:
> 
> I'm getting ready to add an aftermarket computer to my honda civic... my
> concern is not the WOT tuning but rather the drivability/fuel economy type
> stuff... i was thinking that it would be really handy to have a tool that
> would log conditions in the current factory PCM to build a profile of the
> fuel and timing maps... i'm picturing two inductive probes: one for spark
> plug wire #1 and one for injector wire #1... beyond that you'd only need the
> map sensor signal.  the software that is monitoring these signals/pulses
> could fill in the standard 2D tables for fuel and spark and give you a big
> headstart when you go to tuning the aftermarket efi system "from scratch"...
> does anyone make anything like this?  I could definitely write the software,
> but beyond a few basic PIC projects, i'm not that up on the hardware end of
> things... though i imagine the hardware would be fairly simple...  thoughts?
> 
> thanks,
> jeff
> 
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-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
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To: gmecm@diy-efi.org, diy_efi <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>,
        efi_332 <efi332@diy-efi.org>
Subject: vision of the future
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I never saw this come through so I'm resending.  Get a peek at what's to
come at the following link.  Keep it mind it's a prototype...

http://diy-efi.org/gmecm/test/

--steve


-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jun 29 09:25:34 2001
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From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
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Subject: vision of the future
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I never saw this come through so I'm resending.  Get a peek at what's to
come at the following link.  Keep it mind it's a prototype...

http://diy-efi.org/gmecm/test/

--steve

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jun 29 09:25:37 2001
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Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 07:59:46 -0500
From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
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To get an idea of what's to come, take a look at this link.  This is
just a test, and it's gmecm only, but the real thing isn't far behind...

http://diy-efi.org/gmecm/test/

--steve


-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jun 29 09:50:21 2001
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Message-ID: <3B3CAF72.5ED3F23E@arm.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 11:40:18 -0500
From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
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Subject: sorry...
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There was a sendmail problem at this end, so the "vision" email came
through too many times.  It's not so neat that I need to announce it a
dozen times :-)

--steve

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jun 29 14:08:12 2001
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From: "Joel Yancey" <jyancey@twrol.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <20010627032726.20995.qmail@web4505.mail.yahoo.com> <00b601c0ff48$94474200$1626fa18@alntn1.tx.home.com>
Subject: Re: Mitsu Starion
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 00:40:53 -0600
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I just rebuild my 85.5 ESI Conquest (same as a Starion). The TPI setup on
this car makes any domestic manufacturers look like complete geniuses. It's
a peice of crap. If you can, try a MPFI setup (I would do that when I can
afford a standalone EFI).

Joel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kris Weldy" <volvo4life@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 2:34 PM
Subject: Re: Mitsu Starion


> Mitsu montero heads flow more cfm-and bolt right on...I worked on a number
> of these at Takin it to the streets racin-or a to z performance.Good
little
> cars-more than likely he has a boost leak or some loose vacuum hoses
> somewhere-there are a ton of them.
> Kris Weldy
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "LEIF BERTELSEN" <leifbert@yahoo.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 10:27 PM
> Subject: Mitsu Starion
>
>
> > My off line buddy wanted me to ask you guys for
> > advice.
> > He bought a 1986 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R new when we
> > were in college. He had scraped together the cash to
> > buy it and I never really new how(it was about 16
> > grand if i remember correctly). Anyway.....He
> > maintained it meticulously for 100K miles. I replaced
> > the turbo once. He always had driveability probs with
> > the thing. These probs have gotten progressively worse
> > and no one can seem to diagnose. He is adamant about
> > changing to a new engine management system. I do not
> > know squat about this but I am a good wrench and will
> > help in any way I can. Anyone know which way to go
> > with this thing..... It's a 2.6 four. intercooler with
> > a cheesy looking throttle body style injection. Port
> > fuel?......This guy loves this car and wants to run it
> > forever at any cost.
> > Thanks.
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
> > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Jun 29 14:08:11 2001
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From: "Joel Yancey" <jyancey@twrol.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <2d.da10ab8.286b28c8@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Mitsu Starion
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 00:43:02 -0600
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Oh, a note on this... The 85.5 and 86's (some 86's) can run without a MAS
sensor, because it also has a MAP sensor. Many owners have reported better
throttle response, better power, and better gasmilage by removing the Karman
vortec MAS altogether. Just a thought. I've done this, and it's improved
that drivability of the car somewhat.

Joel
----- Original Message -----
From: <ECMnut@aol.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 6:17 AM
Subject: Re: Mitsu Starion


> I've work on two of these cars in my entire life.
> Don't know if it is the rule, but BOTH ran like crap
> due to a bad mass airflow sensor.  Ya might want to start there if your
symptons warrant it.
> Both times the cars idled like sh*t and gas milage was way down.
> HTH
> Mike V
>
> In a message dated Tue, 26 Jun 2001 11:30:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
LEIF BERTELSEN <leifbert@yahoo.com> writes:
>
> << My off line buddy wanted me to ask you guys for
> advice.
> He bought a 1986 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R new when we
> were in college. He had scraped together the cash to
> buy it and I never really new how(it was about 16
> grand if i remember correctly). Anyway.....He
> maintained it meticulously for 100K miles. I replaced
> the turbo once. He always had driveability probs with
> the thing. These probs have gotten progressively worse
> and no one can seem to diagnose. He is adamant about
> changing to a new engine management system. I do not
> know squat about this but I am a good wrench and will
> help in any way I can. Anyone know which way to go
> with this thing..... It's a 2.6 four. intercooler with
> a cheesy looking throttle body style injection. Port
> fuel?......This guy loves this car and wants to run it
> forever at any cost.
> Thanks.
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
> http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
>  >>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jun 30 04:03:22 2001
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From: "Ian Weaver" <ijweaver@adam.com.au>
To: <DIY_EFI@lists.diy-efi.org>
Subject: Qestions from a new member
Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 20:31:20 +0930
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Hi all,

I would like information and questions answered.  I am looking at doing an
engine change over. I have a Ford 4x4 van with a 2lt carbi engine and
looking at changing it to a  2.6lt 12v efi engine out of a Ford 4x4 pick up,
late 90's model. The 2lt carbi engine has the engine number prefix " FE "

    1- Can this be done ?
    2-Do I need to change the gearbox or can I use the one already in the
van ?
    3-What type of computer ?
    4-Does it run a BCM ?
    5-Do I have to run the BCM ?
    6-What securities are on the computer ?
    7-Are the securities easily removed ?
    8-Anything tricky with the wiring ?

Thankyou for listening and look forward to favorable responses,

Ian

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Jun 30 22:44:13 2001
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From: "David Hunt" <bamainc@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <3B3CAF72.5ED3F23E@arm.com>
Subject: Re: sorry...
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 00:45:19 -0500
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Is there any way we could see the messages we missed during the outages?

dh
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve ravet" <sravet@arm.com>
To: "diy_efi" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>; <gmecm@diy-efi.org>; "efi_332"
<efi332@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 11:40 AM
Subject: sorry...


> There was a sendmail problem at this end, so the "vision" email came
> through too many times.  It's not so neat that I need to announce it a
> dozen times :-)
>
> --steve
>
> --
> Steve Ravet
> steve.ravet@arm.com
> ARM,Inc.
> www.arm.com
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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>
>


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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Jul  1 01:01:01 2001
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Subject: EGOR artwork posted
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2001 03:00:30 -0500
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I have posted the first cut of the EGOR artwork.  DO NOT MAKE boards from
this artwork!

I have made a few changes.  I added connectors.  I may have added them in
the wrong place, so please correct me as needed.

Especially, I would guess that CON1 pin 1 goes to Vp.

Why can't the two power supplies created by D1 and D3 be combined?

The two resistors R38 and R39 can be removed when the artwork is nearer to
completetion.  It allows my tools to remain happy during the debug stage.

I changed the size of C2 and C3 so as to have good layout info.

I don't know too much about the use of this circuit.  Should it be mounted
in an enclosure?

David Hunt (bama)

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