From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug  1 14:20:16 2001
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From: "Walter Sherwin" <wsherwin@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <002501c11a32$b713ce20$2eb60b41@hntsvlle1.al.home.com> <00a901c11a38$d5445300$677ba8c0@aboite1.in.home.com>
Subject: Re: Data Logger Reccomendations?
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 17:20:32 -0700
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> Campbell Scientific makes a nice data logger that will accept a variety of
> inputs. You can sometimes get a good deal on a Fluke or HP Hydra data
logger
> on ebay. If you don't need to record too many channels or don't need very
> fast recording, some of the DVM or scopemeter products can be used as data
> loggers with the PC software and a laptop (I know Tenma, Tektronix and
Fluke
> all make products in this category and you can sometimes get the PC
software
> compatible DVMs for under $100). I can't remember what company it is, but
I
> think the product is WinDAQ or something like that and they have a one or
> two channel PC data logger that they provide at little to no cost as a
> sample of what the larger systems can do.
>
> Jason
>



That cheapie board is from DATAQ.  They are on the web.  IIRC under $20
US......

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug  1 14:21:54 2001
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From: "Brett Downs" <brettd@broadcast.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <00e701c117ac$f7ba73d0$967af8d0@TEXAN.NET> <3B668FC8.EF94409D@earthlink.net> <006301c11a06$86719080$2eb60b41@hntsvlle1.al.home.com>
Subject: Re: Hi i am new to the list and i have a cpl of ??'s
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 17:28:16 -0500
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that is true. wow sounds like you guys have quite an extensive background in
the field of eletrical engineering = )


----- Original Message -----
From: "David Hunt" <bamainc@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 4:19 PM
Subject: Re: Hi i am new to the list and i have a cpl of ??'s


> The frequency is constant, it is the duration that varies.  A frequency to
> voltage converter won't do the job.  The function is like a dwell meter.
> The frequency to voltage converter is like a tachometer.
> dh
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joseph Obernberger" <joelori@earthlink.net>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 6:00 AM
> Subject: Re: Hi i am new to the list and i have a cpl of ??'s
>
>
> > You might be able to do this with a frequency to voltage converter chip.
> Even
> > might be able to get one for free from national semiconductor's webpage
as
> a
> > sample.  That would convert the injector signal into a linear voltage
> signal -
> > then one could use a normal voltmeter/panel meter (simple voltmeter with
> > display) to watch the duty cycle.  I've never tried this.
> >
> >                                                             joeo
> >
> >
> > Brett Downs wrote:
> >
> > > I have an EFI toyota supra 87 model and i was wondering how could i
> measure
> > > the injector duty and make my own little gauge for it??
> > >
> > > And about how many people are on this list??
> > >
> > > Brett Downs
> > >
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
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> >
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug  1 17:07:50 2001
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From: Shane Moseley <smoseley@ix.netcom.com>
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Subject: Re: Data Logger Reccomendations?
References: <002501c11a32$b713ce20$2eb60b41@hntsvlle1.al.home.com> <00a901c11a38$d5445300$677ba8c0@aboite1.in.home.com>
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Thats probably Dataq (www.dataq.com).  I have their $15 data acquisition starter
kit.  It has 4 channels of +/-10V analog inputs sampled at a rate of 240
samples/sec.  What is that...a 4.2ms resolution?  Includes Winblows software
that looks like a four channel o-scope.  Has ability to log the data to the
harddisk for inport into excel, etc.  Helluva deal.  A little bit larger than a
pack of chewing gum.  Took about 3 days to get to my doorstep after ordering
online.

I also use my OBD-2 scan tool (from www.obd-2.com) to select the data I am
interested in (or all of them) and sample those at a frequency of about 4
samples per second when the PCM ('96 Dodge/Chrysler) is not busy and only about
2 samples per second (way too slow) while PCM is busy (like WOT!).  This is
while reading ALL sensors - maybe it would be faster when selecting less data.
But seriously tho - when it is easier to select ALL the data - why would you
not? - especially when troubleshooting.  I wish I had the resolution of the
hardware solution w/the flexibility of the PCMs SCI interface/software
combination.  The scan tool logs all its data also to a flat ascii text file.
Makes for cool trending via your favorite graphing tool.

Hope this helps - Latr,

Shane

Jason Haines wrote:

> Campbell Scientific makes a nice data logger that will accept a variety of
> inputs. You can sometimes get a good deal on a Fluke or HP Hydra data logger
> on ebay. If you don't need to record too many channels or don't need very
> fast recording, some of the DVM or scopemeter products can be used as data
> loggers with the PC software and a laptop (I know Tenma, Tektronix and Fluke
> all make products in this category and you can sometimes get the PC software
> compatible DVMs for under $100). I can't remember what company it is, but I
> think the product is WinDAQ or something like that and they have a one or
> two channel PC data logger that they provide at little to no cost as a
> sample of what the larger systems can do.
>
> Jason
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Hunt" <bamainc@home.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 9:36 PM
> Subject: Data Logger Reccomendations?
>
> > Can anyone recommend any data loggers?
> >
> > dh
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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--
'96 IndyRam-HisIndy-MPI TB Pulleys RTcam MPComp HVoilpump DynaGearDoubleRoller
WindageTray CompTAs
'96 IndyRam-HerIndy-numbered(#142)"Track Truck"
'74 Triple-Black Dodge Challenger Rallye 360 EFI R&D vehicle
'93 Dakota CC 318 - soon to be mine 8)


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug  1 17:32:12 2001
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At 2:03 PM 8/1/01, Flanagan, Steve wrote:
>Dont think you will be able to get WB readings for individual cylinder,
>unless you
>are using 8 sensors.
>
>If you wanted to use one sensor don't know if reacts quick enough, do you
>have equal
>length headers, this may be a concern?
>
>Would love to hear if this is possible.  Anyone have comments on this?
>
The NTK WB sensor does, in fact react fast enough to pick out individual
cylinders on one sensor, maybe up to 4 or 5 K rpm on a 4 cyl. Good point
about reasonably equal headers making it easier to do.

Greg


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  2 06:43:47 2001
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From: "Brett Downs" <brettd@broadcast.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <00e701c117ac$f7ba73d0$967af8d0@TEXAN.NET> <3B668FC8.EF94409D@earthlink.net> <002101c119f0$da999bf0$967af8d0@TEXAN.NET> <3B67F7F4.477A940E@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Hi i am new to the list and i have a cpl of ??'s
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 13:31:49 -0500
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yea = )
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Obernberger" <joelori@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 7:37 AM
Subject: Re: Hi i am new to the list and i have a cpl of ??'s


> Sorry about my bad suggestion - as others have pointed out that just won't
work.
>
> Could make a nice tach though...
> :-)
>
>                                             joeo
>
>
> Brett Downs wrote:
>
> > cool thanx = )
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Joseph Obernberger" <joelori@earthlink.net>
> > To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 6:00 AM
> > Subject: Re: Hi i am new to the list and i have a cpl of ??'s
> >
> > > You might be able to do this with a frequency to voltage converter
chip.
> > Even
> > > might be able to get one for free from national semiconductor's
webpage as
> > a
> > > sample.  That would convert the injector signal into a linear voltage
> > signal -
> > > then one could use a normal voltmeter/panel meter (simple voltmeter
with
> > > display) to watch the duty cycle.  I've never tried this.
> > >
> > >                                                             joeo
> > >
> > >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  2 06:43:39 2001
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From: "Brett Downs" <brettd@broadcast.net>
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Subject: Re: Oops!  new poster and seller take 2!
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 13:34:37 -0500
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do you have pics of the wheels and how much do you want for them??

Brett
brettd@broadcast.net


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  2 07:04:46 2001
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From: "Jurgen Hartwig" <jhartwig@midsouth.rr.com>
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Subject: Changing output of WB O2 setup (Autronic)
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 09:02:00 -0500
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Hi all, I could use any advice anyone can lend.

I bought an Autronic SMC engine management system.  It has the Autotune
feature (adjusts AFR based on input from WB controller).  The Autronic
requires 0-1V input.  There is only one solution, according to Autronic, and
that is their own Autronic controller (at cost over $1000US).  They say the
M&W controller is not a good match to the Autronic (AFR not stable).

FJO Inc, has what appears to be a very nice unit.  It is $636, with sensor
and display.  However, according to their engineer, their unit would not
work with my Autronic.  He tells me that 0-1 V and 4-5V on the analog output
is reserved for communications with their own ECU, and the AFR is shown from
1-4 V.

Now my question is this:  How can I filter, alter, or create a new signal to
reflect the ratio?  The FJO unit has serial output.  Is there any way I can
generate a voltage from the computer suitable for the ECU to read?  I mean,
the laptop will know the AFR.  Is it possible, without a lot of work, to
create a voltage on the 0-1V scale to be sent to my Autronic?

I have a feeling I need to just bite the bullet and pay the $1000, but if I
can save money, I will surely go for it.

Thanks
jay

PS> If any other Autronic owners have dealt with this, please let me know.



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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  2 07:27:31 2001
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To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: bearbvd@cmn.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Changing output of WB O2 setup (Autronic)
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>I bought an Autronic SMC engine management system.  It has the Autotune
>feature (adjusts AFR based on input from WB controller).
>
>I have a feeling I need to just bite the bullet and pay the $1000, but if I
>can save money, I will surely go for it.
>
>Thanks
>jay
>
My personal feeling is that a properly built engine does not need auto-tune.

Basically, if you have decent datalogging when you first set it up, and
tune it properly, it will stay there for a good long time. After tuning it
properly, pull the O2 sensor(s) out and put plugs in the holes, and avoid
the expense of sensor replacement!

Greg


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  2 10:15:25 2001
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Awesome job Doug!  I'd love to be doing that kind of programming.  I've
been doing embedded controllers for over 20 years,  and playing with EFI
for the past few.  I'd really love to be doing EFI code full time (and
getting paid for it!).  Welcome to the list.

Bill
'94 Z28
'84 Mondial Cabriolet
'78 Fiat 124 Spider (FI & '749)
http://www.connix.com/~bshaw/mondial.html

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  2 10:34:07 2001
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From: "David Hunt" <bamainc@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <20010727094544.13462.qmail@web11503.mail.yahoo.com> <4.1.20010731134435.00d2ec70@mailhub.cme.nist.gov> <3B6728DA.D7CC5CE@nni.com> <3B673C0A.C2D30F8B@grolen.com>
Subject: Re: DIY-EGOR status
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 12:35:37 -0500
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I did the recent artwork and it was reviewed (thank you very much) but only
by one person.  Unfortunately I misnamed the file as #egorsch.zip.  It is in
the archives at:

ftp://ftp.diy-efi.org/incoming

Most web browsers will go there by clicking the above address, although a
FTP program would be better.  After unzipping the file contains EVERYTHING
needed to make the current version of the board with ORCAD SDT.  That is the
only version I own.  I would have used the recent free ORCAD stuff but their
limit is 60 devices, which is just barely too few for this design.

I was very much hoping that some discourse would be generated to determine -

1) The types of connectors to be used.  -   At this time I'm using .1"
headers for the connections.  For example, I would think that a mini DIN for
the sensor would be cool.  Other suggestions would be appropriate.

2) The enclosure to be used - I was looking at some of the self contained
battery enclosures I found one (I forget where right now) that was a meter
case with the 9 Volt battery terminals built in.  There is also the
possibility of having the unit powered by the automobile which would require
me to add a 12 Volt option and possibly change the case and/or add a
switch...etc.

3) The type of output - Right now is the time to add output options.  I can
see an LED bar graph which would be a battery killer, but not out of the
question - especially if the unit were car powered. The NiMH batteries would
certainly help the battery situation of an LED bar graph were added.  An
output scaled to use a panel meter is an option.  And even an LCD output
that reads out in A/F is possible.

Input is requested.

In regard to the EGOR.  Don't ever underestimate the importance of quality
design and support.  For example, I don't understand the present WB design.
I am only laying out the board.  I'd like to, understand it better but that
isn't a priority right now.  You may or may not be able to find me or
another person that has any relationship with the WB in the future.  There
will be no unified support for the WB and there is no indication that parts
will be available in the future.  Just to give you an example.  I haven't
worked on the project for quite some time and I am not apologetic.  It is a
background task.  I have more pressing tasks.  This is not my income...etc.
I don't think that this would surprise anyone, nor do I think that it upsets
anyone.  It's a hobby thing.

If you purchase an EGOR I suspect that you will get a well thought out,
commercial design that is designed with good packaging, support and
durability.


In other words, the WB project is a hobby project and the EGOR is a
commercial product.  They have little in common.  If I had the money and it
was very important to me, say I made my living at it, I"d buy an EGOR.

Also,  we are where we are today due to the efforts of others,  and I for
one appreciate their efforts.  Many others.

dh




----- Original Message -----
From: "Shannen Durphey" <shannen@grolen.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 6:15 PM
Subject: Re: DIY-EGOR status


> The only thing I can make of that right now is DeW-B.
>
> Shannen
>
> rr wrote:
> >
> > EGOR is dead. Long live the DIY-WB!
> >
> > BobR.
> >
> > Brian Renegar wrote:
> >
> > > Just wondering what the current status of the EGOR project is.  Has
the
> > > artwork been drawn up yet?  Also, how much testing of the circuit has
been
> > > done, and any in conjunction with a commercially available wide band
meter
> > > for accuracy testing?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Brian
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  2 11:29:07 2001
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David Hunt wrote:

> 3) The type of output - Right now is the time to add output options.  I can
> see an LED bar graph which would be a battery killer, but not out of the
> question - especially if the unit were car powered. The NiMH batteries would
> certainly help the battery situation of an LED bar graph were added.  An
> output scaled to use a panel meter is an option.  And even an LCD output
> that reads out in A/F is possible.

How about a barrel jack that can be connected to a 12VDC wall wart, or a
cigarette lighter, and a NiCd battery pack that automatically charges
when the thing is plugged in?

--steve


-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  2 14:04:28 2001
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From: "David Hunt" <bamainc@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <20010727094544.13462.qmail@web11503.mail.yahoo.com> <4.1.20010731134435.00d2ec70@mailhub.cme.nist.gov> <3B6728DA.D7CC5CE@nni.com> <3B673C0A.C2D30F8B@grolen.com> <003c01c11b79$8b5e7260$2eb60b41@hntsvlle1.al.home.com> <3B699AB7.D43D82F7@arm.com>
Subject: Re: DIY-EGOR status
Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 16:03:15 -0500
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That's reasonable.

dh
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve ravet" <sravet@arm.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 1:23 PM
Subject: Re: DIY-EGOR status


>
>
> David Hunt wrote:
>
> > 3) The type of output - Right now is the time to add output options.  I
can
> > see an LED bar graph which would be a battery killer, but not out of the
> > question - especially if the unit were car powered. The NiMH batteries
would
> > certainly help the battery situation of an LED bar graph were added.  An
> > output scaled to use a panel meter is an option.  And even an LCD output
> > that reads out in A/F is possible.
>
> How about a barrel jack that can be connected to a 12VDC wall wart, or a
> cigarette lighter, and a NiCd battery pack that automatically charges
> when the thing is plugged in?
>
> --steve
>
>
> --
> Steve Ravet
> steve.ravet@arm.com
> ARM,Inc.
> www.arm.com
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  2 21:12:22 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: DIY-EGOR status
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David,

fwiw, I don't care what box it is in as long as it is not stuffed into a
mini box that is hard to work on.  this is for personal consumption, I would
prefer workability over small size any day. Same goes for connectors, as
long as they are common & simple to get.  No worries.

I would like to see +12Vdc input.  my logic is that this is going into a
car.  even if I am not running it on the street (Dyno) there is still going
to be a car & most of them have lighter sockets.

I don't really have an input on the display, I have never used one, so don't
know what is good & what is not.  I thought I had a good line on simple
digital displays (we use them @ work).  after looking into them I found out
that we pay $90 EA for them, in volume.  this in ones & twos they are
probably $100 or $110.  not for the DIYer if you ask me.  LED's I would
imagine would be a good thing.  I would however like to have a 0 - 1 VDC
output (or the option for one).  this way I could data-log later in life if
I grew up to do so.

I understand you position & appreciate all the help/hard work that you are
putting in on this project. For that matter, that goes to all you that
contribute to the list.  I have learned volumes about this stuff, in a very
short period of time & actually find it interesting how much guys (car guys
@ that) are wiling to help out people that they wouldn't know if they ran
into them on 1st & main.

THANKS, I only hope that I can help, to contribute something useful some
day.

BW



-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of David Hunt
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 10:36 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: DIY-EGOR status


I did the recent artwork and it was reviewed (thank you very much) but only
by one person.  Unfortunately I misnamed the file as #egorsch.zip.  It is in
the archives at:

ftp://ftp.diy-efi.org/incoming

Most web browsers will go there by clicking the above address, although a
FTP program would be better.  After unzipping the file contains EVERYTHING
needed to make the current version of the board with ORCAD SDT.  That is the
only version I own.  I would have used the recent free ORCAD stuff but their
limit is 60 devices, which is just barely too few for this design.

I was very much hoping that some discourse would be generated to determine -

1) The types of connectors to be used.  -   At this time I'm using .1"
headers for the connections.  For example, I would think that a mini DIN for
the sensor would be cool.  Other suggestions would be appropriate.

2) The enclosure to be used - I was looking at some of the self contained
battery enclosures I found one (I forget where right now) that was a meter
case with the 9 Volt battery terminals built in.  There is also the
possibility of having the unit powered by the automobile which would require
me to add a 12 Volt option and possibly change the case and/or add a
switch...etc.

3) The type of output - Right now is the time to add output options.  I can
see an LED bar graph which would be a battery killer, but not out of the
question - especially if the unit were car powered. The NiMH batteries would
certainly help the battery situation of an LED bar graph were added.  An
output scaled to use a panel meter is an option.  And even an LCD output
that reads out in A/F is possible.

Input is requested.

In regard to the EGOR.  Don't ever underestimate the importance of quality
design and support.  For example, I don't understand the present WB design.
I am only laying out the board.  I'd like to, understand it better but that
isn't a priority right now.  You may or may not be able to find me or
another person that has any relationship with the WB in the future.  There
will be no unified support for the WB and there is no indication that parts
will be available in the future.  Just to give you an example.  I haven't
worked on the project for quite some time and I am not apologetic.  It is a
background task.  I have more pressing tasks.  This is not my income...etc.
I don't think that this would surprise anyone, nor do I think that it upsets
anyone.  It's a hobby thing.

If you purchase an EGOR I suspect that you will get a well thought out,
commercial design that is designed with good packaging, support and
durability.


In other words, the WB project is a hobby project and the EGOR is a
commercial product.  They have little in common.  If I had the money and it
was very important to me, say I made my living at it, I"d buy an EGOR.

Also,  we are where we are today due to the efforts of others,  and I for
one appreciate their efforts.  Many others.

dh




----- Original Message -----
From: "Shannen Durphey" <shannen@grolen.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 6:15 PM
Subject: Re: DIY-EGOR status


> The only thing I can make of that right now is DeW-B.
>
> Shannen
>
> rr wrote:
> >
> > EGOR is dead. Long live the DIY-WB!
> >
> > BobR.
> >
> > Brian Renegar wrote:
> >
> > > Just wondering what the current status of the EGOR project is.  Has
the
> > > artwork been drawn up yet?  Also, how much testing of the circuit has
been
> > > done, and any in conjunction with a commercially available wide band
meter
> > > for accuracy testing?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Brian
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
>


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From: "Seth Bibler" <sbibler@aracnet.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Cc: <chris@formula3.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Mazda rotaries. Pre mix and octane reduction
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 04:29:51 -0700
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Sorry for the late reply, but...

> Jim Downing who won numerous IMSA titles with a rotary just used premix.
> The pumps would fail at high rpm.  If you talk to the people at racing beat
> in California, they may be able to guide you.  Of the three book on rotaries
> I have read, they all stated that rotaries are relatively insensitive to
> octane when compared with the piston.  It must have something to do with the
> dramatically different combustion chamber shape, and the dual ignition.

Yeah, well Mazda uses one on their 4 rotor 787B engine.  That engine was power
tuned for sub 10,000 RPMs though... and the pump is attached to a Dry sump
setup.  Still, if Mazda is using it...

> Say, what oil pressure you running in the main lube cirucit?  Let me know
> off list.

I'm running 95psi, but that's because I have a ported oiling system with
3-window main bearings.

The stock pressure is fine for normal bearings.

Seth


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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug  3 04:42:28 2001
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From: "Seth Bibler" <chameleo@europa.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Mazda RX-7 '89-'91 MAF -> aftermarket hotwire?
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 04:42:08 -0700
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Hello,

I wanted to see if you gurus on this list can help me out with this one.  I am
trying to figure out how to upgrade from the stock Mazda MAF (ND cone-style) to
an aftermarket 80mm (or bigger) hotwire MAF.  I guess a stock one from a Nissan
or something else would work, as long as I can make the signal translate.

Now, the Mazda MAF uses a 5 pin hookup...
TS - air intake thermosensor
E2 - bus (from ecu -> thermosensor)
E2 - bus (from ecu -> MAF pot)
     The E2 pins are bridged internally.
     Why there are two?  I don't know.
Vs - one side of the pot
     I'm guessing that this side connects to the fuel pump relay for safety.
Vc - the other
     This side should be connected to the ECU

Since it's a pot the ECU is simply measuring the resistance/voltage change.

The problem is I don't know what values translate to what output (no map), and I
don't have a flow bench to figure that out.  Then the other unknown is does a
hotwire's output work similarly?  What has to be done to translate/convert the
signal?

I'm guessing that someone has done this before, but if not then I'd be willing
to sort through the problems.

Also, if anyone has a good link to information on this topic I'd greatly
appreciate it.

Thank you!

Seth


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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug  3 05:40:49 2001
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From: "Seth Bibler" <sbibler@aracnet.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Mazda rotaries. Pre mix and octane reduction
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 05:40:42 -0700
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> location is a compromise. Also, why would you want to burn dirty engine oil,
> When you can run a nice syntheic premix that was designed to burn clean.

You can purchase/make a supply adapter that mounts between the front cover and
the MOP allowing you to run this better synthetic oil from a supply tank.  That
way you retain the lubrication system.  Another possibility is to use the
'87-'88 MOP.  It is mechanically actuated.. so you'd have to adapt a linkage to
the TB.  Also the pre '89 MOP mounts differently, so you'd have to change the
front cover, or modify your existing one.  If you make an adapter to supply the
MOP with 2-stroke oil then you can design the adapter to accommodate this
change.

Seth


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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug  3 08:19:05 2001
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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?= <jorgen.m.karlsson@home.se>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Changing output of WB O2 setup (Autronic)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 17:24:10 +0200
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Hi,

Here in sweden the M&W controller is used with autronics autotune, I think
that the problem is not as big as it sounds. Since the 0-1v output on the
autronic WB controller is equal to 10-30AFR and the M&W controller has a
10-20AFR range a potentiometer is used to make the number on the display and
the number the autronic ECU sees match.

By the way, how much are the M&W controller in the US?

After looking at the response curve of the canadian unit (FJO inc), I have
found it not to be very suitable. I would rather read the serial output of
the controller and make a Atmel processor send a pwm voltage signal to the
autronic ECU. The serial output has the values in acsii format if I
understood it right. This should be a simple operation in BASCOM-AVR. You
could apply any filtering you need in the program code.

Jörgen Karlsson
Gothenburg, Sweden.


> Hi all, I could use any advice anyone can lend.
>
> I bought an Autronic SMC engine management system.  It has the Autotune
> feature (adjusts AFR based on input from WB controller).  The Autronic
> requires 0-1V input.  There is only one solution, according to
> Autronic, and
> that is their own Autronic controller (at cost over $1000US).
> They say the
> M&W controller is not a good match to the Autronic (AFR not stable).
>
> FJO Inc, has what appears to be a very nice unit.  It is $636, with sensor
> and display.  However, according to their engineer, their unit would not
> work with my Autronic.  He tells me that 0-1 V and 4-5V on the
> analog output
> is reserved for communications with their own ECU, and the AFR is
> shown from
> 1-4 V.

> Now my question is this:  How can I filter, alter, or create a
> new signal to
> reflect the ratio?  The FJO unit has serial output.  Is there any
> way I can
> generate a voltage from the computer suitable for the ECU to
> read?  I mean,
> the laptop will know the AFR.  Is it possible, without a lot of work, to
> create a voltage on the 0-1V scale to be sent to my Autronic?
>
> I have a feeling I need to just bite the bullet and pay the
> $1000, but if I
> can save money, I will surely go for it.
>
> Thanks
> jay
>
> PS> If any other Autronic owners have dealt with this, please let me know.

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug  3 08:29:10 2001
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To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Changing output of WB O2 setup (Autronic)
Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 17:31:53 +0200
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Autotune is only used to make initial setup, it does what you normally do on
the dyno. You stabilize the engine on a load site and instead of you reading
the AFR and changing it the computer does it all by it self. It is not like
the WOT closed loop operation of the SpeedPro where the wide band lambda is
used all the time.

I also agree that closed loop operation is not needed after the engine is
tuned.

Jorgen Karlsson
Gothenburg, Sweden.

> My personal feeling is that a properly built engine does not need
> auto-tune.
>
> Basically, if you have decent datalogging when you first set it up, and
> tune it properly, it will stay there for a good long time. After tuning it
> properly, pull the O2 sensor(s) out and put plugs in the holes, and avoid
> the expense of sensor replacement!


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  6 18:07:21 2001
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Subject: BMW Binaries
Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 17:31:59 -0700
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I am looking for mid 80's BMW & Volvo binaries.
The BOSCH Motronic part numbers are in the range
0 261 200 000
through
0 261 200 045.

If you have any of these binaries, please contact me direct. Thanks in
advance.

FR Wilk
f_wilk@hotmail.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug  6 21:41:54 2001
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Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 21:41:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Changing output of WB O2 setup (Autronic)
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On Fri, 3 Aug 2001 17:24:10 +0200 =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?=
<jorgen.m.karlsson@home.se> writes:

> After looking at the response curve of the canadian unit (FJO inc), 
> I have found it not to be very suitable.

JK, could you elaborate a little more on this? Do you really mean the
"curve" itself (it's shape or something else?), *or* the fact that it
occupies 1-4V instead of 0-5v? I have teetered on the verge of buying one
of the FJO's, and would appreciate any feedback you have. Also, I recall
at least one other person on the list who was already using an FJO unit.
If I remember, that bloak's feedback was fairly positive. Tnx.

Brian

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug  7 01:11:38 2001
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From: "Tony Bryant" <brd@paradise.net.nz>
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Subject: Injectors in parallel & igntion signal processing
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1 - Are there any pitfalls in driving peak & hold injectors in parallel?
(with a LM1949) My simulation looks alright, but am I missing anything
important

2 - What sort of circuit is recomended for processing of an ignition signal
(i.e. from the coil negative). Should I be looking for the HV spike, or try
to filter that out to get the base switched 12V?

Cheers.
Tony.


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug  7 05:24:10 2001
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References: <200108070800.BAA03618@hektor.valesh.com>
Subject: FJO Inc. WBO2 (was Re: Changing output of WB O2 setup (Autronic))
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 08:25:32 -0400
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I received my WBO2 controller and display last week. So far, I like it. It
warms up pretty quick (~15 seconds) and the display readout is faster than a
human can keep up with. I'll be playing with its analog output this weekend
and do some datalogging with it. Unfortunately, I've never used another
wideband oxygen sensor so I don't have a base to compare it to. If anybody
has specific questions about it, go ahead and ask.

Nick

ps. Yes, it does used the infamous NTK/Honda WBO2 sensor.

> > After looking at the response curve of the canadian unit (FJO inc),
> > I have found it not to be very suitable.
>
> JK, could you elaborate a little more on this? Do you really mean the
> "curve" itself (it's shape or something else?), *or* the fact that it
> occupies 1-4V instead of 0-5v? I have teetered on the verge of buying one
> of the FJO's, and would appreciate any feedback you have. Also, I recall
> at least one other person on the list who was already using an FJO unit.
> If I remember, that bloak's feedback was fairly positive. Tnx.
>
> Brian


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug  7 06:17:41 2001
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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?= <jorgen.m.karlsson@home.se>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Changing output of WB O2 setup (Autronic)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 15:23:20 +0200
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Hi,

The curve is not linear, that is required by autronics autotune feature.

It is ok from 10-14AFR, where 10:1AFR=1.46v and 14:1AFR=2.53v.
But 15:1AFR=2.63v and 20:1AFR=2.97v.

It should be pretty easy to convert the 10-14AFR range to a suitable signal.
10:1 must be 0v and 14:1 must be 0.47v. Then you can run autotune in that
range, if you want a leaner mixture you make the change in the open loop
table after you have run autotune.

But I think that it is pretty simple create a linear voltage signal from the
serial ouput, the serial stream used to communicate with a pc is simple
text. The display cannot be used together with a laptop because the protocol
is different, maybe it is simpler to convert this with a microcontroller.

Jörgen Karlsson
Gothenburg, Sweden.


> JK, could you elaborate a little more on this? Do you really mean the
> "curve" itself (it's shape or something else?), *or* the fact that it
> occupies 1-4V instead of 0-5v? I have teetered on the verge of buying one
> of the FJO's, and would appreciate any feedback you have. Also, I recall
> at least one other person on the list who was already using an FJO unit.
> If I remember, that bloak's feedback was fairly positive. Tnx.

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug  7 10:30:16 2001
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From: "Glenn & Debbie Woodhouse" <gwoodhouse2@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Re: Changing output of WB O2 setup (Autronic)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 11:33:33 -0600
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For those interested in using a WB for forced induction tuning, thus being
primarily interested in A/F ranges fron stoich to ~11:1, the NTK and FJO
controller boxes' output voltage only ranges about 0.5 volts.  I suspect
that this is true for the DIY-WB as well, those on the list more familiar
with this project please confirm.  Because of this it is important that
whatever device is reading the controller's output (i.e. DVM, digital
display, or datalogger) should have good analog or a/d conversion
resolution.  In the case of a datalogger, 10 or 12 bit resolution is
recommended.

Glenn.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 21:41:31 -0700
From: Brian L Massey <blocklm@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Changing output of WB O2 setup (Autronic)

On Fri, 3 Aug 2001 17:24:10 +0200 =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?=
<jorgen.m.karlsson@home.se> writes:

> After looking at the response curve of the canadian unit (FJO inc),
> I have found it not to be very suitable.

JK, could you elaborate a little more on this? Do you really mean the
"curve" itself (it's shape or something else?), *or* the fact that it
occupies 1-4V instead of 0-5v? I have teetered on the verge of buying one
of the FJO's, and would appreciate any feedback you have. Also, I recall
at least one other person on the list who was already using an FJO unit.
If I remember, that bloak's feedback was fairly positive. Tnx.

Brian

________________________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug  7 11:32:15 2001
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Subject: Re: Changing output of WB O2 setup (Autronic)
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Glenn,

Looking at the spec sheet for the analog output of the FJO unit it seems to
range from 1.25V to 2.5V for AFR's of 11:1 to stoich. This gives a voltage
swing of 1.25V.   Where did you get your info from?

Neil



>
For those interested in using a WB for forced induction tuning, thus being
primarily interested in A/F ranges fron stoich to ~11:1, the NTK and FJO
controller boxes' output voltage only ranges about 0.5 volts.
<


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug  7 12:56:06 2001
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From: =?us-ascii?Q?Jorgen_Karlsson?= <jorgen.m.karlsson@home.se>
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Subject: RE: Changing output of WB O2 setup (Autronic)
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 22:01:48 +0200
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Arghhh,

I think that we have to talk to the guys at FJO, the diagram I recived from
them suggest that 11:1 is more like 1.8V. They seem to send different
information to everyone...

You can find the diagram in incomming now, I named it: FJO WBO2 Calibration
curve.PDF


Jorgen Karlsson
Gothenburg, Sweden.


>
> Glenn,
>
> Looking at the spec sheet for the analog output of the FJO unit
> it seems to
> range from 1.25V to 2.5V for AFR's of 11:1 to stoich. This gives a voltage
> swing of 1.25V.   Where did you get your info from?
>
> Neil
>
>
>
> >
> For those interested in using a WB for forced induction tuning, thus being
> primarily interested in A/F ranges fron stoich to ~11:1, the NTK and FJO
> controller boxes' output voltage only ranges about 0.5 volts.
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug  7 13:53:12 2001
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Subject: RE: Changing output of WB O2 setup (Autronic)
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OK guys.  I live in Winnipeg and have asked FJO to set up a WB O2
controller for a working demo this week.  I will confirm the analog output
range when I see them.

BTW I got the output graph from their website manual.

Neil




Jorgen Karlsson <jorgen.m.karlsson@home.se>@diy-efi.org on 08/07/2001
03:01:48 PM

Please respond to diy_efi@diy-efi.org

Sent by:  owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org


To:   <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
cc:
Subject:  RE: Changing output of WB O2 setup (Autronic)


Arghhh,

I think that we have to talk to the guys at FJO, the diagram I recived from
them suggest that 11:1 is more like 1.8V. They seem to send different
information to everyone...

You can find the diagram in incomming now, I named it: FJO WBO2 Calibration
curve.PDF


Jorgen Karlsson
Gothenburg, Sweden.


>
> Glenn,
>
> Looking at the spec sheet for the analog output of the FJO unit
> it seems to
> range from 1.25V to 2.5V for AFR's of 11:1 to stoich. This gives a
voltage
> swing of 1.25V.   Where did you get your info from?
>
> Neil
>
>
>
> >
> For those interested in using a WB for forced induction tuning, thus
being
> primarily interested in A/F ranges fron stoich to ~11:1, the NTK and FJO
> controller boxes' output voltage only ranges about 0.5 volts.
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug  8 22:31:39 2001
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Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2001 22:33:59 -0800
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(This bounced last week while the list was down...)

Kristopher Means wrote:
> 
> the 2N4401 is your garden variety NPN switching transistor.  They list it as
> an NTE123AP, although looking at the specs, I can't see why you can't use
> a 2N2222 (NTE123A) (the "P" has a little better settling time).

They are in different packages.  The 4401 is in the little black plastic
cylinders with one flat side.  The 2222 historically came in metal cans,
though there is now a variant available in plastic.  I think it's called
the 2N2222P.  I don't know if the pinout is the same as the 2N4401 or not.

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  9 02:20:32 2001
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From: "James Ballenger" <vtjballeng@yifan.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Injectors in parallel & igntion signal processing
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 05:22:50 -0400
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Tony,

	Just be careful about your amperage draw, you don't want to overload the
circuit.  Keep in mind that a P&H injector that might normally be 6ohms in
parallel with another 6ohm injector will cause a 3ohm circuit and draw twice
as much amperage.  Though this may seem obvious to most, I have seen this
relationship ignored and drivers blown.  Otherwise, there shouldn't be any
problem.  My team has run Saturation and P&H injectors in parallel for many
years.

James Ballenger

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Tony Bryant
Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2001 4:12 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Injectors in parallel & igntion signal processing


1 - Are there any pitfalls in driving peak & hold injectors in parallel?
(with a LM1949) My simulation looks alright, but am I missing anything
important

2 - What sort of circuit is recomended for processing of an ignition signal
(i.e. from the coil negative). Should I be looking for the HV spike, or try
to filter that out to get the base switched 12V?

Cheers.
Tony.


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  9 06:47:43 2001
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Ludis Langens wrote:

> They are in different packages.  The 4401 is in the little black plastic
> cylinders with one flat side.

It's called a TO-92 package.

>                               The 2222 historically came in metal cans,

While TO-5 packages (metal cans) once were the norm, that is really ancient
history.  The only devices that you find standard are usually RF amps or other
types requiring heat sinks.  Today 99.99% of all small bipolar transistors
and FETs come in TO-92 unless special ordered.


> though there is now a variant available in plastic.  I think it's called
> the 2N2222P.  I don't know if the pinout is the same as the 2N4401 or not.


The part number on transistors usually doesn't change with the package.  Pick
one up and it'll say 2N2222 no matter what.  A "P" suffix usually denotes a
device with higher power dissipation, which would probably be a TO-5.

Also, 90% of these devices have a EBC pin-out, but with only three leads it
really doesn't matter that much - you can easily bend them around to the
proper holes.  And a few seconds with an ohm meter will tell you if you
have one of the uncommon ECB devices.

The bottom line is if you have to replace the 2N4401 you can use a 2N2222,
or for that matter probably a good old 2N3904.  The other transistors (PNP,
2N3905, 2N3906) can be replaced with a 2N3906, all of which are readily
available anywhere they sell electronic components.

-- Kris

   "There is something to be said about geeks who know they are geeks.
     People who are self-aware about their place in the world possess, at
      the least, a sense of humor. Anime fans and computer nerds fall into
       this category. Goth people and Renaissance festival fanatics do not."
           http://www.houstonpress.com/issues/2001-08-02/feature.html

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  9 08:19:14 2001
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From: "Glenn & Debbie Woodhouse" <gwoodhouse2@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Changing output of WB O2 setup (Autronic)
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 09:23:29 -0600
Message-ID: <000201c120e7$3ec02ac0$94f70b18@boise1.id.home.com>
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I e-mailed FJO with the question a couple of months ago.  Below is their
response:

"I checked the 12-14.7 range and it appears our WBO2 controller has
approximately a 0.51 volt span over this range. What sort of resolution were
you hoping for? A 0.5 volt span into a 10-bit A/D should yield a resolution
of 0.03 AFR if my math is working correctly today. This is what our WBO2
controller uses to convert the analog reading to digital for sending out the
RS232 interface. Perhaps this would be an option for your system if it has
an unused RS232 serial input? Then you would have the AFR values directly
and not need to convert the analog voltages.

Hope this helps!

Thanks,
Fred"

So, the 0.5 volts is from 12:1 to stoich, not 11:1 to stoich but a little
crude extrapolation would indicate that 11:1 to stoich would be a 0.7 volt
range.  So as Fred from FJO mentioned, you want 10 or 12 bit a/d conversion,
which the FJO controller does for its digital output.  I forgot  that their
controller provides a 10 bit digital output along with the analog output.
This is a very nice feature that the NTK controller box does not support.

Glenn.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 13:31:06 -0500
From: Neil.Poersch@mts.mb.ca
Subject: Re: Changing output of WB O2 setup (Autronic)

Glenn,

Looking at the spec sheet for the analog output of the FJO unit it seems to
range from 1.25V to 2.5V for AFR's of 11:1 to stoich. This gives a voltage
swing of 1.25V.   Where did you get your info from?

Neil



>
For those interested in using a WB for forced induction tuning, thus being
primarily interested in A/F ranges from stoich to ~11:1, the NTK and FJO
controller boxes' output voltage only ranges about 0.5 volts.
<


- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--

Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 22:01:48 +0200
From: =?us-ascii?Q?Jorgen_Karlsson?= <jorgen.m.karlsson@home.se>
Subject: RE: Changing output of WB O2 setup (Autronic)

Arghhh,

I think that we have to talk to the guys at FJO, the diagram I recived from
them suggest that 11:1 is more like 1.8V. They seem to send different
information to everyone...

You can find the diagram in incomming now, I named it: FJO WBO2 Calibration
curve.PDF


Jorgen Karlsson
Gothenburg, Sweden.



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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug  9 15:07:13 2001
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From: "Brett Downs" <brettd@broadcast.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <000201c120e7$3ec02ac0$94f70b18@boise1.id.home.com>
Subject: pocket programmer!!!
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 15:36:08 -0500
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is there anyone out there that wants to sell their pocket programmer??

Brett
brettd@broadcast.net

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug 10 03:02:51 2001
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Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 11:02:40 +0100 (BST)
From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Dave=20Edge?= <edgedj@yahoo.com>
Subject: safe distance from coil for ECU
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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just installing my ECU provided by
www.perfectpower.com, I had it running but am
experiencing a touch of interference due to the 6
metre cable runs which I think are a touch on the long
side!

MY car has the engine in the rear and my thinking was
to get the ECU far away from all the noise in the
engine bay and mount it in the glovebox for ease of
access. As I say the runs of wire are too long, even
with shielded twisted pair wires.

I want to mount it on the back shelf, unfortunately
the other side of the back shelf is where the coil
lives, will the EMF affect the ECU, is there a safe
distance that should be observed. I can get about 1
foot away without lengthening the wires.

Cheers
Dave

____________________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug 10 05:01:49 2001
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From: "Les Newell" <les@lnewell.screaming.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <20010810100240.97949.qmail@web10001.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: safe distance from coil for ECU
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If the back shelf is steel then it will form a screen to protect the ECU.
Even if it isn't it should not be a problem.

Les

> just installing my ECU provided by
> www.perfectpower.com, I had it running but am
> experiencing a touch of interference due to the 6
> metre cable runs which I think are a touch on the long
> side!
>
> MY car has the engine in the rear and my thinking was
> to get the ECU far away from all the noise in the
> engine bay and mount it in the glovebox for ease of
> access. As I say the runs of wire are too long, even
> with shielded twisted pair wires.
>
> I want to mount it on the back shelf, unfortunately
> the other side of the back shelf is where the coil
> lives, will the EMF affect the ECU, is there a safe
> distance that should be observed. I can get about 1
> foot away without lengthening the wires.
>
> Cheers
> Dave
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.co.uk address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk
> or your free @yahoo.ie address at http://mail.yahoo.ie
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug 10 05:41:36 2001
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From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Dave=20Edge?= <edgedj@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: safe distance from coil for ECU
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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Cheers Les, 

I feel happier now. The shelf is steel so no worries!

Dave

 --- Les Newell <les@lnewell.screaming.net> wrote: >
If the back shelf is steel then it will form a
> screen to protect the ECU.
> Even if it isn't it should not be a problem.
> > I want to mount it on the back shelf,
> unfortunately
> > the other side of the back shelf is where the coil
> > lives, will the EMF affect the ECU, is there a
> safe
> > distance that should be observed. I can get about
> 1
> > foot away without lengthening the wires.


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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug 10 08:45:24 2001
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To: DIY_EFI@lists.diy-efi.org
Subject: Chrysler EFI?
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 08:45:18 -0700
From: Peter Mao <peterm@srl.caltech.edu>
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Hi there,

I hope this is not way off topic for this list.  I have a Chrysler LA
318 (1978) on which I'd like to install EFI, preferably a multipoint
system.  Does anyone here know about the compatibility of the later model
(ie Magnum 5.2, 5.7) intakes with the LA 318?  (ie will a MPFI intake
from a late model truck bolt up to my 318?)

Peter
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug 10 09:29:59 2001
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References: <200108101545.IAA06420@aegir.srl.caltech.edu>
Subject: Re: Chrysler EFI?
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> Hi there,
>
> I hope this is not way off topic for this list.  I have a Chrysler LA
> 318 (1978) on which I'd like to install EFI, preferably a multipoint
> system.  Does anyone here know about the compatibility of the later model
> (ie Magnum 5.2, 5.7) intakes with the LA 318?  (ie will a MPFI intake
> from a late model truck bolt up to my 318?)
>
> Peter


Sorry, no it won't bolt up. The 5.2 and 5.9 Magnums use a different angle to
the intake bolts, similar to the Ford 302. Also, I think the pattern and
port location differs slightly. You would have to get a couple of Magnum
heads, then you'd run into other problems. The LA engines oil through the
head, into the rocker rail pedestal. Magnums oil like Chevy engines, through
the pushrod. There is a fix for this, though. Use AMC lifters for the 390,
as they oil through the pushrod, and are the same diameter, and custom
pushrods ( if I remember correctly, the cup is different, or you'd be able
to use the Magnum pushrods).

Scott Creech

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug 10 17:07:47 2001
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Subject: Re: Chrysler EFI?
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 18:51:28 -0600
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If your happy with the performance of your 318, the pre-Magnum (88 - 91)
5.2L TBI intake will fit. The 5.7L ports are larger and won't match your
heads. I did noticed these later intakes don't have one of the mounting
bosses for the older A/C compressor. I think TBI is preferable to a carb if
you don't want to do the magnum head conversion.

Gerald Pelnar
McPherson, KS
wd0fyf@mpks.net
http://www.mpks.net/homepage/wd0fyf/

 ----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Mao <peterm@srl.caltech.edu>

> I hope this is not way off topic for this list.  I have a Chrysler LA
> 318 (1978) on which I'd like to install EFI, preferably a multipoint
> system.  Does anyone here know about the compatibility of the later model
> (ie Magnum 5.2, 5.7) intakes with the LA 318?  (ie will a MPFI intake
> from a late model truck bolt up to my 318?)


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Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 21:03:54 -0700
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: bearbvd@cmn.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Chrysler EFI?
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If you are going to bother with a head conversion, try to find some W-2's
(or the equivalent) rather than bothering with Magnums.

Greg

At 6:51 PM 8/10/01, Gerald Pelnar wrote:
>If your happy with the performance of your 318, the pre-Magnum (88 - 91)
>5.2L TBI intake will fit. The 5.7L ports are larger and won't match your
>heads. I did noticed these later intakes don't have one of the mounting
>bosses for the older A/C compressor. I think TBI is preferable to a carb if
>you don't want to do the magnum head conversion.
>
>Gerald Pelnar
>McPherson, KS
>wd0fyf@mpks.net
>http://www.mpks.net/homepage/wd0fyf/
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>From: Peter Mao <peterm@srl.caltech.edu>
>
>> I hope this is not way off topic for this list.  I have a Chrysler LA
>> 318 (1978) on which I'd like to install EFI, preferably a multipoint
>> system.  Does anyone here know about the compatibility of the later model
>> (ie Magnum 5.2, 5.7) intakes with the LA 318?  (ie will a MPFI intake
>> from a late model truck bolt up to my 318?)
>
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug 10 23:42:52 2001
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From: "Diehl, Jeffrey" <jdiehl@sandia.gov>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Ign Advance on MR-2
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 00:42:28 -0600
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Hi all.

I'm still learning, so be gentle... <grin>

I've got an '87 MR-2 and I'm trying to figure out how it effects timing
advancement.  It has 2 wheels in the distributor, one with 4 teeth, the
other with 1.  The single-toothed wheel is probably used to run the tach and
is slightly offset from the cooresponding tooth on the 4-tooth wheel.

Now the teeth on the 4-tooth wheel pass by what looks like a magnetic pickup
and I presume that this gives the ECM the baseline timing.  However, it also
passes by what looks like a small magnet which is attached to the pickup.

There are no vacuum lines, so it is not doing vacuum advance.  The only
moving part is the shaft on which the two wheels move.

So, my question is: How does this mechanism manage to advance the spark?

Thanx for any input.
Mike Diehl.

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug 10 23:44:07 2001
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To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Chrysler EFI? 
In-reply-to: Your message of Fri, 10 Aug 2001 18:51:28 -0600.
             <003501c12202$45c37180$243d95d0@gerald> 
Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 23:43:59 -0700
From: Peter Mao <peterm@srl.caltech.edu>
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I don't think I'll be swapping heads on this car, so I'll have to look
into TBI.  Any thoughts on stock Mopar vs Holly Projection?

Thanks for all your input.  I'll have to wait until next week to see
what you all have to say -- I'm heading up to Bonneville tomorrow for
Speed Week!

Peter

>If your happy with the performance of your 318, the pre-Magnum (88 - 91)
>5.2L TBI intake will fit. The 5.7L ports are larger and won't match your
>heads. I did noticed these later intakes don't have one of the mounting
>bosses for the older A/C compressor. I think TBI is preferable to a carb if
>you don't want to do the magnum head conversion.
>
>Gerald Pelnar
>McPherson, KS
>wd0fyf@mpks.net
>http://www.mpks.net/homepage/wd0fyf/
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 11 02:46:20 2001
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From: "Les Newell" <les@lnewell.screaming.net>
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Subject: Re: Ign Advance on MR-2
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Hi Mike,
The ECU generates the advance/retard. The wheel with four teeth is to tell
the ECU when a piston is at TDC and the wheel with one tooth is to tell the
ECU when piston 1 is at TDC. From this information the ECU always knows the
crank position. There is probably a vacuum sensor attached to the manifold
somewhere. From this information and possibly data from other sensors the
ECU can work out the optimum timing.

Les


> Hi all.
>
> I'm still learning, so be gentle... <grin>
>
> I've got an '87 MR-2 and I'm trying to figure out how it effects timing
> advancement.  It has 2 wheels in the distributor, one with 4 teeth, the
> other with 1.  The single-toothed wheel is probably used to run the tach
and
> is slightly offset from the cooresponding tooth on the 4-tooth wheel.
>
> Now the teeth on the 4-tooth wheel pass by what looks like a magnetic
pickup
> and I presume that this gives the ECM the baseline timing.  However, it
also
> passes by what looks like a small magnet which is attached to the pickup.
>
> There are no vacuum lines, so it is not doing vacuum advance.  The only
> moving part is the shaft on which the two wheels move.
>
> So, my question is: How does this mechanism manage to advance the spark?
>
> Thanx for any input.
> Mike Diehl.
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 11 05:22:01 2001
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Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 22:24:56 +1000
From: Peter Gargano <peter@techedge.com.au>
Organization: Tech Edge Pty. Ltd. - ABN 40 057 140 137
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I'm trying to find a Hitachi 6303 user's manual. Anyone got a PDF? 
Alternatively, if it's a clone of a Motorola chip, which?

TIA, Peter.
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 11 06:17:06 2001
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From: "Morten T Nielsen" <morten-n@gmx.de>
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Subject: What now?
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Hi

I'm almost finished reading "Understanding automotive electronics" and "Automotive electrics and electronics", which books would be the next thing for me as I gain knowledge for some day be able to alter the data on an eprom? (Does that make any sence to you?) Well, I can get a hold of almost any book from the state library so anything goes. Understanding Automotive Electronics has really shed some light on the whole thing...but I'm sure there are a lot of things involved in reprogramming a chip - just need to understand (Read) what!

Thanks!

Morten T Nielsen

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 11 07:14:54 2001
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Subject: Re: HD6303 Manual?
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 07:15:03 -0700
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I found the HD6303.pdf at the following ftp site.
http://oh3tr.ele.tut.fi/~ftp/modifications/keyradio/kc450ht/archived/HD6303.pdf

Warren

On Saturday 11 August 2001 05:24 am, you wrote:
> I'm trying to find a Hitachi 6303 user's manual. Anyone got a PDF?
> Alternatively, if it's a clone of a Motorola chip, which?
>
> TIA, Peter.
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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_________________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 11 09:01:51 2001
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Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 09:01:01 -0700
From: Xin <xinjin@pacbell.net>
Subject: newbie interested in the wb-egor
To: "diy_efi@diy-efi.org" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
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Hi Everyone, I am new on the list.  Just spent the last three days going

through the archive.  I have to say that you guys on this list have done

some amazingly impressive things.

One project is of particular interest of my is the wb-egor effort.  From

what I can gather in the archive, the effort of producing some PCB
boards is still ongoing.  If that's true, I'd like to get on the group
buy
list.  If that's not the case, could someone enlighten me?

thanks,

Xin

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 11 09:36:46 2001
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I am new and have the same question. I am on a qwest to find a cheaper
wideband O2 meter to tune a turbo Miata with. Obviously the stock narrow
band is useless and I don't have full time access to a dyno and wideband. I
do have software that allows me to datalog the replacment fully programmable
ECU, and with wideband reading/logging capability, it would be very easy to
"dyno tune" my car on the street.

If there is an effort to produce a PC board, count me in. I have layed out
boards and have  some electronics/engineering background.

Jess
----- Original Message -----
From: "Xin" <xinjin@pacbell.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2001 10:01 AM
Subject: newbie interested in the wb-egor


> Hi Everyone, I am new on the list.  Just spent the last three days going
>
> through the archive.  I have to say that you guys on this list have done
>
> some amazingly impressive things.
>
> One project is of particular interest of my is the wb-egor effort.  From
>
> what I can gather in the archive, the effort of producing some PCB
> boards is still ongoing.  If that's true, I'd like to get on the group
> buy
> list.  If that's not the case, could someone enlighten me?
>
> thanks,
>
> Xin
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 11 10:53:51 2001
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From: "lance" <lmwolrab@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Ign Advance on MR-2
Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 10:54:22 -0700
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The 4AG engines use a trap door MAF and throttle position sensor for spark
timing.  The distributor generates Ne and Ge signals.  You are correct the
advance is entirely under the ECU's control, and there is no crank position
sensor per se.  Interestingly, the throttle position sensor can be
completely nonfunctional and the engine still runs without any SOTP
notification or MIL indicating that something is wrong.  If you forget to
reconnect it, the connector will get chewed up by the left drive axle.  Ask
me how I know.

Lance

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Les Newell
Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2001 02:46
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Ign Advance on MR-2


Hi Mike,
The ECU generates the advance/retard. The wheel with four teeth is to tell
the ECU when a piston is at TDC and the wheel with one tooth is to tell the
ECU when piston 1 is at TDC. From this information the ECU always knows the
crank position. There is probably a vacuum sensor attached to the manifold
somewhere. From this information and possibly data from other sensors the
ECU can work out the optimum timing.

Les


> Hi all.
>
> I'm still learning, so be gentle... <grin>
>
> I've got an '87 MR-2 and I'm trying to figure out how it effects timing
> advancement.  It has 2 wheels in the distributor, one with 4 teeth, the
> other with 1.  The single-toothed wheel is probably used to run the tach
and
> is slightly offset from the cooresponding tooth on the 4-tooth wheel.
>
> Now the teeth on the 4-tooth wheel pass by what looks like a magnetic
pickup
> and I presume that this gives the ECM the baseline timing.  However, it
also
> passes by what looks like a small magnet which is attached to the pickup.
>
> There are no vacuum lines, so it is not doing vacuum advance.  The only
> moving part is the shaft on which the two wheels move.
>
> So, my question is: How does this mechanism manage to advance the spark?
>
> Thanx for any input.
> Mike Diehl.
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 11 11:45:03 2001
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Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 14:46:40 -0400
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From: Chris Conlon <synchris@speakeasy.org>
Subject: Re: Ign Advance on MR-2
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At 12:42 AM 8/11/01 -0600, Diehl, Jeffrey wrote:

>other with 1.  The single-toothed wheel is probably used to run the tach and
>is slightly offset from the cooresponding tooth on the 4-tooth wheel.

The tach should be run via a signal from the igniter. On an '87 it
probably just takes a signal from the low voltage side of the coil.

>There are no vacuum lines, so it is not doing vacuum advance.  The only
>moving part is the shaft on which the two wheels move.
>
>So, my question is: How does this mechanism manage to advance the spark?

That ECU uses an AFM. It doesn't measure MAP directly, but can figure
out load, based on RPM and the AFM signal. It then uses the load value
to adjust the spark timing. The ECU controls all aspects of spark
timing... except dwell, which is probably controlled by the igniter.

Actually that ECU is old enough that the Ne signal from the dizzy
(the one with more teeth) may go to the igniter, which then feeds a
copy of the signal to the ECU. (Operation is pretty similar to the
other setup, though, from the ECU's point of view.) Just a quirk to
watch out for when you're tracing down wires.

   Chris C.

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 11 14:17:11 2001
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Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 07:20:08 +1000
From: Peter Gargano <peter@techedge.com.au>
Organization: Tech Edge Pty. Ltd. - ABN 40 057 140 137
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Subject: Re: HD6303 Manual?
References: <B51F0C636E578A4E832D3958690CD73E0130BFB4@es04snlnt> <3B752418.E5E7F2AA@techedge.com.au> <01081107150300.04485@C512466-A>
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Thanks Warren ...

"Watson E. Watson" wrote:
> 
> I found the HD6303.pdf at the following ftp site.
> http://oh3tr.ele.tut.fi/~ftp/modifications/keyradio/kc450ht/archived/HD6303.pdf

This PDF document contains roughly scanned, but quite readable,
pages from Hitachi (a) manual(s) and covers the:

Page 1-33
  HD6303R,
  HD63A03R,
  HD63B03R

Page 34-69
  HD6303X,
  HD63A03X,
  HD63B03X

Page 70-111
  HD6303Y,
  HD63A03Y,
  HD63B03Y

But it doesn't have the pinouts for the 52 pin QFP (13 x 4)
part HD63B03R1CP, so if anyone has this too.

Peter.
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 11 18:54:31 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
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Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 18:54:17 -0700
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http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech2/promintro.shtml
http://www.thirdgen.org/cgi-bin/messgboard/forumdisplay.cgi?action=topics&fo
rum=DIY+PROM&number=10&DaysPrune=20&LastLogin=

BW

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Morten T Nielsen
Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2001 6:20 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: What now?


Hi

I'm almost finished reading "Understanding automotive electronics" and
"Automotive electrics and electronics", which books would be the next thing
for me as I gain knowledge for some day be able to alter the data on an
eprom? (Does that make any sence to you?) Well, I can get a hold of almost
any book from the state library so anything goes. Understanding Automotive
Electronics has really shed some light on the whole thing...but I'm sure
there are a lot of things involved in reprogramming a chip - just need to
understand (Read) what!

Thanks!

Morten T Nielsen

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 11 19:07:28 2001
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"Diehl, Jeffrey" wrote:

> Hi all.
>
> I'm still learning, so be gentle... <grin>
>
> I've got an '87 MR-2 and I'm trying to figure out how it effects timing
> advancement.  It has 2 wheels in the distributor, one with 4 teeth, the
> other with 1.  The single-toothed wheel is probably used to run the tach and
> is slightly offset from the cooresponding tooth on the 4-tooth wheel.
>
> Now the teeth on the 4-tooth wheel pass by what looks like a magnetic pickup
> and I presume that this gives the ECM the baseline timing.  However, it also
> passes by what looks like a small magnet which is attached to the pickup.
>
> There are no vacuum lines, so it is not doing vacuum advance.  The only
> moving part is the shaft on which the two wheels move.
>
> So, my question is: How does this mechanism manage to advance the spark?
>
> Thanx for any input.
> Mike Diehl.
>

Not sure if your question has already been answered - but...The ECU controls
when the coil fires, and the ECU 'knows' the posistion of the engine.  So as far
as how it physically adjusts the timing:  The distributor is spinning around,
and the ECU knows where it is and how fast it's spinning...as the rotor
approaches the contact point (say spark plug wire 1), the ECU can fire the spark
sooner or later as the rotor wipes past that metal contact for wire 1.  Pretty
sure that is how it works anyway!

                                            joeo


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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 11 22:42:40 2001
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you may just want to get on the DIY Promm burning board on Thirdgen.org and 
start reading all post old & new post you can learn a lot from other peoples 
problems,questions,&results just a suggestion
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 11 23:42:41 2001
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From: "Diehl, Jeffrey" <jdiehl@sandia.gov>
To: "'Les Newell '" <les@lnewell.screaming.net>,
        "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org '" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Ign Advance on MR-2
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 00:42:29 -0600
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Here's a puzzle, then.  I believe that the 4-tooth wheel indecates when a
piston is at TDC, and the 1-tooth wheel indicates when #1 is at TDC, but,
why are these wheels slightly offset from each other?  Only by a few
degrees, but they do not line up.  Any ideas?

Thanx,
Mike Diehl.

-----Original Message-----
From: Les Newell
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Sent: 8/11/2001 3:45 AM
Subject: Re: Ign Advance on MR-2

Hi Mike,
The ECU generates the advance/retard. The wheel with four teeth is to
tell
the ECU when a piston is at TDC and the wheel with one tooth is to tell
the
ECU when piston 1 is at TDC. From this information the ECU always knows
the
crank position. There is probably a vacuum sensor attached to the
manifold
somewhere. From this information and possibly data from other sensors
the
ECU can work out the optimum timing.

Les


> Hi all.
>
> I'm still learning, so be gentle... <grin>
>
> I've got an '87 MR-2 and I'm trying to figure out how it effects
timing
> advancement.  It has 2 wheels in the distributor, one with 4 teeth,
the
> other with 1.  The single-toothed wheel is probably used to run the
tach
and
> is slightly offset from the cooresponding tooth on the 4-tooth wheel.
>
> Now the teeth on the 4-tooth wheel pass by what looks like a magnetic
pickup
> and I presume that this gives the ECM the baseline timing.  However,
it
also
> passes by what looks like a small magnet which is attached to the
pickup.
>
> There are no vacuum lines, so it is not doing vacuum advance.  The
only
> moving part is the shaft on which the two wheels move.
>
> So, my question is: How does this mechanism manage to advance the
spark?
>
> Thanx for any input.
> Mike Diehl.
>
>
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To: "'lance '" <lmwolrab@earthlink.net>,
        "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org '" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Ign Advance on MR-2
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 00:46:41 -0600
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I'm about to show my ignorance, but ignorance is only temporary...  

What are you refering to when you refer to the Ne and Ge signals?

I'm assuming you meant Stop notification below...?  But what is a MIL
indication?

Sorry to hear about your TPS connector... <grin> 

Thanx for your input,
Mike Diehl.


-----Original Message-----
From: lance
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Sent: 8/11/2001 11:54 AM
Subject: RE: Ign Advance on MR-2

The 4AG engines use a trap door MAF and throttle position sensor for
spark
timing.  The distributor generates Ne and Ge signals.  You are correct
the
advance is entirely under the ECU's control, and there is no crank
position
sensor per se.  Interestingly, the throttle position sensor can be
completely nonfunctional and the engine still runs without any SOTP
notification or MIL indicating that something is wrong.  If you forget
to
reconnect it, the connector will get chewed up by the left drive axle.
Ask
me how I know.

Lance

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Les Newell
Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2001 02:46
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Ign Advance on MR-2


Hi Mike,
The ECU generates the advance/retard. The wheel with four teeth is to
tell
the ECU when a piston is at TDC and the wheel with one tooth is to tell
the
ECU when piston 1 is at TDC. From this information the ECU always knows
the
crank position. There is probably a vacuum sensor attached to the
manifold
somewhere. From this information and possibly data from other sensors
the
ECU can work out the optimum timing.

Les


> Hi all.
>
> I'm still learning, so be gentle... <grin>
>
> I've got an '87 MR-2 and I'm trying to figure out how it effects
timing
> advancement.  It has 2 wheels in the distributor, one with 4 teeth,
the
> other with 1.  The single-toothed wheel is probably used to run the
tach
and
> is slightly offset from the cooresponding tooth on the 4-tooth wheel.
>
> Now the teeth on the 4-tooth wheel pass by what looks like a magnetic
pickup
> and I presume that this gives the ECM the baseline timing.  However,
it
also
> passes by what looks like a small magnet which is attached to the
pickup.
>
> There are no vacuum lines, so it is not doing vacuum advance.  The
only
> moving part is the shaft on which the two wheels move.
>
> So, my question is: How does this mechanism manage to advance the
spark?
>
> Thanx for any input.
> Mike Diehl.
>
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 11 23:56:11 2001
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From: "Diehl, Jeffrey" <jdiehl@sandia.gov>
To: "'Joseph Obernberger '" <joelori@earthlink.net>,
        "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org '" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Ign Advance on MR-2
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I think you've communicated the main problem for me.  I need to understand
how the ECU "knows" the engine position.  

If the ECU were a digital computer, I could imagine a fast clock and a
counter which was latched at the passing of each tooth in the 4-tooth wheel.
This count could be used to calculate RPM and the clock could be used to
trigger the firing of the next injector/sparkplug.  But the ECU in the MR-2
doesn't seem to be that sophistcated.  Looks to be a completely analog
system! 

I guess this same algorithm could be done in analog...  Is that how it
works?

Thanx,
Mike Diehl.

-----Original Message-----
From: Joseph Obernberger
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Sent: 8/11/2001 8:08 PM
Subject: Re: Ign Advance on MR-2



"Diehl, Jeffrey" wrote:

> Hi all.
>
> I'm still learning, so be gentle... <grin>
>
> I've got an '87 MR-2 and I'm trying to figure out how it effects
timing
> advancement.  It has 2 wheels in the distributor, one with 4 teeth,
the
> other with 1.  The single-toothed wheel is probably used to run the
tach and
> is slightly offset from the cooresponding tooth on the 4-tooth wheel.
>
> Now the teeth on the 4-tooth wheel pass by what looks like a magnetic
pickup
> and I presume that this gives the ECM the baseline timing.  However,
it also
> passes by what looks like a small magnet which is attached to the
pickup.
>
> There are no vacuum lines, so it is not doing vacuum advance.  The
only
> moving part is the shaft on which the two wheels move.
>
> So, my question is: How does this mechanism manage to advance the
spark?
>
> Thanx for any input.
> Mike Diehl.
>

Not sure if your question has already been answered - but...The ECU
controls
when the coil fires, and the ECU 'knows' the posistion of the engine.
So as far
as how it physically adjusts the timing:  The distributor is spinning
around,
and the ECU knows where it is and how fast it's spinning...as the rotor
approaches the contact point (say spark plug wire 1), the ECU can fire
the spark
sooner or later as the rotor wipes past that metal contact for wire 1.
Pretty
sure that is how it works anyway!

                                            joeo


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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug 12 00:16:04 2001
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From: "Diehl, Jeffrey" <jdiehl@sandia.gov>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org '" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Ign Advance on MR-2
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 01:15:52 -0600
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For all fo you who have replied and tried to help me, Thank you.  I'm not
trying to be difficult, but I have to really understand how this system
works.

My dad and I are considering an engine modification which will necessitate
converting to a distributor-less ignition, or at least fooling the ECU into
thinking it has a distributor....

We're thinking that as the tooth approaches the magnet, it induces a current
which gets larger as the tooth approaches and smaller as it passes, forming
(perhapse) a sin wave pattern.  

Now, if the ECU fires a spark plug when this current exceeds a fixed
voltage, we could advance/retard the ignition timing by adding a bias
voltage into this equation.  The fact that the pickup only has two wires
coming out of it implies that all of this math is being done inside the ECU
and not by biasing the pickup itself, right?  These details are important to
us when we try to build a circuit which emulates this behaviour.

Any insight you may have would be most welcome.

Thanx,
Mike Diehl.

-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Conlon
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Sent: 8/11/2001 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: Ign Advance on MR-2

At 12:42 AM 8/11/01 -0600, Diehl, Jeffrey wrote:

>other with 1.  The single-toothed wheel is probably used to run the
tach and
>is slightly offset from the cooresponding tooth on the 4-tooth wheel.

The tach should be run via a signal from the igniter. On an '87 it
probably just takes a signal from the low voltage side of the coil.

>There are no vacuum lines, so it is not doing vacuum advance.  The only
>moving part is the shaft on which the two wheels move.
>
>So, my question is: How does this mechanism manage to advance the
spark?

That ECU uses an AFM. It doesn't measure MAP directly, but can figure
out load, based on RPM and the AFM signal. It then uses the load value
to adjust the spark timing. The ECU controls all aspects of spark
timing... except dwell, which is probably controlled by the igniter.

Actually that ECU is old enough that the Ne signal from the dizzy
(the one with more teeth) may go to the igniter, which then feeds a
copy of the signal to the ECU. (Operation is pretty similar to the
other setup, though, from the ECU's point of view.) Just a quirk to
watch out for when you're tracing down wires.

   Chris C.

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug 12 00:57:36 2001
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From: "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Ign Advance on MR-2
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 08:46:30 +0100
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Mike, I've got a 4A-GE training manual at work (I think) which describes
this sort of stuff, I'll try and find it and scan relevant pages if it
helps.
Cheers
Rich
ps. if you don't hear, e-mail me to remind me!

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of Diehl, Jeffrey
> Sent: 12 August 2001 08:16
> To: 'diy_efi@diy-efi.org '
> Subject: RE: Ign Advance on MR-2
>
>
> For all fo you who have replied and tried to help me, Thank you.  I'm not
> trying to be difficult, but I have to really understand how this system
> works.
>
> My dad and I are considering an engine modification which will necessitate
> converting to a distributor-less ignition, or at least fooling
> the ECU into
> thinking it has a distributor....
>
> We're thinking that as the tooth approaches the magnet, it
> induces a current
> which gets larger as the tooth approaches and smaller as it
> passes, forming
> (perhapse) a sin wave pattern.
>
> Now, if the ECU fires a spark plug when this current exceeds a fixed
> voltage, we could advance/retard the ignition timing by adding a bias
> voltage into this equation.  The fact that the pickup only has two wires
> coming out of it implies that all of this math is being done
> inside the ECU
> and not by biasing the pickup itself, right?  These details are
> important to
> us when we try to build a circuit which emulates this behaviour.
>
> Any insight you may have would be most welcome.
>
> Thanx,
> Mike Diehl.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Conlon
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Sent: 8/11/2001 12:46 PM
> Subject: Re: Ign Advance on MR-2
>
> At 12:42 AM 8/11/01 -0600, Diehl, Jeffrey wrote:
>
> >other with 1.  The single-toothed wheel is probably used to run the
> tach and
> >is slightly offset from the cooresponding tooth on the 4-tooth wheel.
>
> The tach should be run via a signal from the igniter. On an '87 it
> probably just takes a signal from the low voltage side of the coil.
>
> >There are no vacuum lines, so it is not doing vacuum advance.  The only
> >moving part is the shaft on which the two wheels move.
> >
> >So, my question is: How does this mechanism manage to advance the
> spark?
>
> That ECU uses an AFM. It doesn't measure MAP directly, but can figure
> out load, based on RPM and the AFM signal. It then uses the load value
> to adjust the spark timing. The ECU controls all aspects of spark
> timing... except dwell, which is probably controlled by the igniter.
>
> Actually that ECU is old enough that the Ne signal from the dizzy
> (the one with more teeth) may go to the igniter, which then feeds a
> copy of the signal to the ECU. (Operation is pretty similar to the
> other setup, though, from the ECU's point of view.) Just a quirk to
> watch out for when you're tracing down wires.
>
>    Chris C.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug 12 01:13:35 2001
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At 01:15 AM 8/12/01 -0600, Diehl, Jeffrey wrote:

>We're thinking that as the tooth approaches the magnet, it induces a current
>which gets larger as the tooth approaches and smaller as it passes, forming
>(perhapse) a sin wave pattern.  

The reluctor is a very basic and common sort of device. There's lots
of information on it and circuits for it, even in the archives. Go to:

http:///www.national.com/design

and search for the LM1815 for a quick start. There was also a
Motorola part... the MC3334 perhaps, that accepted reluctor signals.

Faking a reluctor signal is not hard. A pulse wave of the proper
width, fed into a properly chosen transformer, is all you need.


>Now, if the ECU fires a spark plug when this current exceeds a fixed
>voltage, we could advance/retard the ignition timing by adding a bias
>voltage into this equation.  The fact that the pickup only has two wires

Don't go there. The ECU is looking for a zero crossing, since that's
the only signal event that occurs at a precise point with respect
to the bump passing the reluctor. Also the pulse is so short at
higher rpms that, even if it did work this way, you'd only get a few
microseconds of adjustability. Not nearly enough.

If you want to know *for sure* the relationship to TDC you pretty
much have to crank the engine over carefully by hand with the dizzy
half apart, and see what crosses where, when. Most likely you'll
find that the NE pulses are X degrees before TDC, and the G pulse
is some degrees before one of the NE pulses. This lets the ECU
start counting when it sees the NE pulse, then delay for some
calculated time, then fire that cylinder.

I'd be *very* surprised if the 87NA ECU is full analog. Have you
opened it up? The later ECUs apparently use some kind of 8051
derivative, and I bet yours does too.

Really I think the first place to start is with circuits that deal
with reluctor signals. I think that understanding how they are
typically used will clear up what the ECU is doing, and how. Try
searching the major semiconductor makers for relevant parts. MSD
even makes a box (can't find the p/n) that takes reluctor signals
and outputs Hall-effect style pulses, which may be helpful when
it comes time to actually fake out the ECU.


   Chris C.

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"Diehl, Jeffrey" wrote:
> 
> I think you've communicated the main problem for me.  I need to understand
> how the ECU "knows" the engine position.
> 
> If the ECU were a digital computer, I could imagine a fast clock and a
> counter which was latched at the passing of each tooth in the 4-tooth wheel.
> This count could be used to calculate RPM and the clock could be used to
> trigger the firing of the next injector/sparkplug.  But the ECU in the MR-2
> doesn't seem to be that sophistcated.  Looks to be a completely analog
> system!
> 
> I guess this same algorithm could be done in analog...  Is that how it
> works?
> 
> Thanx,
> Mike Diehl.
> 
snip 

I have no idea how it actually works, but it should be pretty simple 
to do it with a simple analog delay from tooth to firing, advancing 
would just be shortening the delay   

-Lasse
-- Lasse Langwadt Christensen, 
-- A Dane in Phoenix, Arizona
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug 12 03:44:47 2001
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From: "Les Newell" <les@lnewell.screaming.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <B51F0C636E578A4E832D3958690CD73E0130BFB9@es04snlnt>
Subject: Re: Ign Advance on MR-2
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 11:28:14 +0100
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The ouput of this type of sensor is very dependent on engine speed. At lower
revs it will be a sharp positive spike as the tooth leading edge passes the
sensor and a sharp negative spike as the trailing edge passes the sensor. As
the speed increases the waveform becomes more square and at very high speed
the waveform will approximate the shape of the tooth. The wave shape is also
dependent on the load on the sensor.
The output voltage is also highly dependent on speed. Open circuit voltage
can be anything from a few millivolts at cranking speed to tens of volts at
high revs. The only way to make sense of these messy signals is to detect
the zero crossings as they will always be at the leading and trailing edges
of the tooth.

What are you trying to do? Are you trying to replace the distributor because
you don't have room for it or are you trying to replace the ECU?

If you are replacing the distributor it may be easier to make up toothed
wheels that can be attached to the camshaft and relocate the sensors. The
toothed wheels could even be replaced by blobs of weld on the cam pulley
(assuming it is belt drive). Obviously you will still have to make an
electronic distributor but this should not be difficult. One way would be to
use a set-reset latch driven by two crank position sensors, one for piston 1
at about 10-30 deg ATDC and one for piston 2 at 10-30 deg ATDC. The latch
would then drive substantial PNP transistors, switching the high sides of
the coils (the ECU drives the low side). One coil would then feed pots 1 and
4 and the other pots 2 and 3, using the wasted spark system.

Les


> For all fo you who have replied and tried to help me, Thank you.  I'm not
> trying to be difficult, but I have to really understand how this system
> works.
>
> My dad and I are considering an engine modification which will necessitate
> converting to a distributor-less ignition, or at least fooling the ECU
into
> thinking it has a distributor....
>
> We're thinking that as the tooth approaches the magnet, it induces a
current
> which gets larger as the tooth approaches and smaller as it passes,
forming
> (perhapse) a sin wave pattern.
>
> Now, if the ECU fires a spark plug when this current exceeds a fixed
> voltage, we could advance/retard the ignition timing by adding a bias
> voltage into this equation.  The fact that the pickup only has two wires
> coming out of it implies that all of this math is being done inside the
ECU
> and not by biasing the pickup itself, right?  These details are important
to
> us when we try to build a circuit which emulates this behaviour.
>
> Any insight you may have would be most welcome.
>
> Thanx,
> Mike Diehl.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Conlon
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Sent: 8/11/2001 12:46 PM
> Subject: Re: Ign Advance on MR-2
>
> At 12:42 AM 8/11/01 -0600, Diehl, Jeffrey wrote:
>
> >other with 1.  The single-toothed wheel is probably used to run the
> tach and
> >is slightly offset from the cooresponding tooth on the 4-tooth wheel.
>
> The tach should be run via a signal from the igniter. On an '87 it
> probably just takes a signal from the low voltage side of the coil.
>
> >There are no vacuum lines, so it is not doing vacuum advance.  The only
> >moving part is the shaft on which the two wheels move.
> >
> >So, my question is: How does this mechanism manage to advance the
> spark?
>
> That ECU uses an AFM. It doesn't measure MAP directly, but can figure
> out load, based on RPM and the AFM signal. It then uses the load value
> to adjust the spark timing. The ECU controls all aspects of spark
> timing... except dwell, which is probably controlled by the igniter.
>
> Actually that ECU is old enough that the Ne signal from the dizzy
> (the one with more teeth) may go to the igniter, which then feeds a
> copy of the signal to the ECU. (Operation is pretty similar to the
> other setup, though, from the ECU's point of view.) Just a quirk to
> watch out for when you're tracing down wires.
>
>    Chris C.
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug 12 05:13:57 2001
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Thanks a lot! I've never heard about that site. It looks like to be very informative!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ChiefZ28@cs.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2001 7:42 AM
Subject: Re: What now?


> you may just want to get on the DIY Promm burning board on Thirdgen.org and 
> start reading all post old & new post you can learn a lot from other peoples 
> problems,questions,&results just a suggestion
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From: "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>
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Subject: RE: Ign Advance on MR-2
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of Les Newell
> Sent: 12 August 2001 11:28
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: Ign Advance on MR-2
>
>
>The only way to make sense of these messy signals is to detect
> the zero crossings as they will always be at the leading and
> trailing edges
> of the tooth.

All reluctor systems will indeed detect the zero crossing of the voltage
signal - but just as a point of fact, the zero crossing of voltage output
will always be in the centre of the tooth, which corresponds to zero rate of
change of flux in the reluctor coil while the target is right in front of
the sensor.
The voltage output is generated in response to a rate of change of flux in
the reluctor coil.
The voltage will swing one way as the target approaches (as the flux  starts
changing), it will reach a peak at the edge of the tooth and start reducing,
reaching zero as the target covers the sensor. The opposite polarity voltage
occurs in the same way as the target leaves proximity to the sensor. Once
the target leaves the face of the sensor, the voltage again returns to zero
as there is no rate of change of flux in the reluctor coil.

Cheers
Rich


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From: "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>
Subject: RE: Ign Advance on MR-2

> > From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> > Behalf Of Les Newell
> > Sent: 12 August 2001 11:28
> > To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > Subject: Re: Ign Advance on MR-2

> >The only way to make sense of these messy signals is to detect
> > the zero crossings as they will always be at the leading and
> > trailing edges
> > of the tooth.
>
> All reluctor systems will indeed detect the zero crossing of the voltage
> signal

Bzzzt, not all.  Gm uses a strategy that is slightly off from that so if the
ecm dies, there is some self induced advance in the system.
Bruce


- but just as a point of fact, the zero crossing of voltage output
> will always be in the centre of the tooth, which corresponds to zero rate
of
> change of flux in the reluctor coil while the target is right in front of
> the sensor.
> The voltage output is generated in response to a rate of change of flux in
> the reluctor coil.
> The voltage will swing one way as the target approaches (as the flux
starts
> changing), it will reach a peak at the edge of the tooth and start
reducing,
> reaching zero as the target covers the sensor. The opposite polarity
voltage
> occurs in the same way as the target leaves proximity to the sensor. Once
> the target leaves the face of the sensor, the voltage again returns to
zero
> as there is no rate of change of flux in the reluctor coil.
>
> Cheers
> Rich


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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug 12 12:53:33 2001
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From: "Les Newell" <les@lnewell.screaming.net>
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References: <LPBBICKAAPGAPNLEKGLIOECCCIAA.rsrich@cwcom.net> <003101c1232f$30f54520$54258fd1@bruce>
Subject: Re: Ign Advance on MR-2
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 20:52:39 +0100
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Damn, I should know by now not to make statements like that. There is always
someone out there who does it differntly, just to be awkward :-)

Les


> > All reluctor systems will indeed detect the zero crossing of the voltage
> > signal
>
> Bzzzt, not all.  Gm uses a strategy that is slightly off from that so if
the
> ecm dies, there is some self induced advance in the system.
> Bruce


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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug 12 17:10:34 2001
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You might want to check out some 'technical documents' on Toyotas:
<http://josepho.www4.50megs.com/mr2-pdfs.html> - particularly THEORY.PDF - it
explains how the ignition system works on various Toyotas.  I put together a
distributorless ignition for my 1991 MR2T, and it worked...but seemed too
sensitive to temperature changes so I have removed it.
<http://josepho.www4.50megs.com/ignition_project.html>
<http://josepho.www4.50megs.com/cgi-bin/i/ignition.jpg>
<http://josepho.www4.50megs.com/cgi-bin/i/ign_box.jpg>

I would be *very* surprised if the ECU were all analog.
                                                        joeo


"Diehl, Jeffrey" wrote:

> I think you've communicated the main problem for me.  I need to understand
> how the ECU "knows" the engine position.
>
> If the ECU were a digital computer, I could imagine a fast clock and a
> counter which was latched at the passing of each tooth in the 4-tooth wheel.
> This count could be used to calculate RPM and the clock could be used to
> trigger the firing of the next injector/sparkplug.  But the ECU in the MR-2
> doesn't seem to be that sophistcated.  Looks to be a completely analog
> system!
>
> I guess this same algorithm could be done in analog...  Is that how it
> works?
>
> Thanx,
> Mike Diehl.
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug 12 23:32:55 2001
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Hi list,

Maybe not entirely on-topic but,

I'm looking for a distribution scheme for CAN-bus identifiers. Is there
such thing as a standard distribution scheme, ala obd2, or is it
different for each (aftermarket)manufacturer.

I should be able to identify each identifier just by looking at the data
(unless the manuf. didn't assign ID's based on data source), however I'd
prefer to have a scheme.

I'm sure some of you must have tinkered with it. Mr Dammeyer maybe?

___

Arnaud
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Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 08:48:17 -0500
From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
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Subject: DIY WB update
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Bob R has sent me a zip file containing his updated schematics for the
DIY WB project, which includes PCB artwork.  Who's ready for some
boards?  Thanks a bunch Bob, Bruce, and everyone else that has worked on
this!

http://diy-efi.org/diy_efi/projects/diy_wb/

I think Bob's got some followup information coming also...

enjoy,
--steve

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 07:28:58 2001
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From: Ron Schroeder <rjs@bnl.gov>
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Hi Mike,

This is possably an over simplification, but the sensors on ECM controlled
spark are set for more advance than the max advance that the engine will
use and the ECM retards the ignition from that point, it never advances it.

The single tooth is slightly advanced from the 4 tooth so that the ECM
knows that the very next pulse from the 4 tooth wheel is #1.

Ron Schroeder
WD8CDH
E. E. S.
wd8cdh@bnl.gov
rjs@bnl.gov
ron@112motors.com
631 344-4561 Day
631 286-5677 Nite
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 07:59:44 2001
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Subject: Re: DIY WB update
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org, gmecm@diy-efi.org
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I want to thank everyone that helped me with the DIY-WB
design. Unfortunately I don't have the list of folks with
me at the moment. So I'll post another thank you later
today giving recognition to everyone on the team. This was
truly a team effort! Note that this design is based on
Chad's original work.

The package on the web site contains schematics, parts
list, chip selection guide and contruction tips. I didn't
include artwork. I went one better and had boards made!There
are PCBs available now.

If anyone wants a board please contact Bob Valentine at:

    wideband@tecmark.com

They are about $9 US each. We would like to limit initial
purchases to 2 boards. This is to get the boards out to
as many folks as possible. If demand warrents more boards
can be made.

The boards are 3" x 5", double sided with component legend,
plated through holes. Board includes both a heater
controller circuit and UEGO controller circuit.

Please remember to refer to this as the DIY-WB project.

Thanks,

BobR.


On Mon, 13 Aug 2001 08:48:17 -0500
 steve ravet <sravet@arm.com> wrote:
> Bob R has sent me a zip file containing his updated
> schematics for the
> DIY WB project, which includes PCB artwork.  Who's ready
> for some
> boards?  Thanks a bunch Bob, Bruce, and everyone else
> that has worked on
> this!
> 
> http://diy-efi.org/diy_efi/projects/diy_wb/
> 
> I think Bob's got some followup information coming
> also...
> 
> enjoy,
> --steve
> 
> -- 
> Steve Ravet
> steve.ravet@arm.com
> ARM,Inc.
> www.arm.com
> ----------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 08:49:45 2001
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rr wrote:
> 
> I want to thank everyone that helped me with the DIY-WB
> design. Unfortunately I don't have the list of folks with
> me at the moment. So I'll post another thank you later
> today giving recognition to everyone on the team. This was
> truly a team effort! Note that this design is based on
> Chad's original work.

Bob et al,

Yes, thanks very much for the effort, guys!  I hope it was fun.

> The package on the web site contains schematics, parts
> list, chip selection guide and contruction tips. I didn't

Now if some industrious individual were to put together
a complimentary parts package (with or without sensor) to go
along with the board, I for one would be willing to pay a generous
surcharge just to avoid the hassle of doing it myself.  Anyone?

Eric

-- 
Eric Fahlgren                            Mechanical Dynamics, Inc
efahl@adams.com                          Ann Arbor, Michigan, USA
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 09:05:26 2001
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DIY WB.
Do It Yourself, Wide Band.
This is meant to be TOTALLY NON-PROFIT,
If someone/folks want to organize a group purchase (of materials), fine.
Other then that, hell no.
A bunch of guys, have a ridiculous amount of hours invested in this, and to
let anyone capitialize on their backs, is flat insulting.   This effort was
years in the making.   If anyone has a problem, understanding this, write me
off list, and I'll go over it in detail.
Bruce

From: "Eric Fahlgren" <efahl@adams.com>
Subject: Re: DIY WB update
> rr wrote:
> > I want to thank everyone that helped me with the DIY-WB
> > design. Unfortunately I don't have the list of folks with
> > me at the moment. So I'll post another thank you later
> > today giving recognition to everyone on the team. This was
> > truly a team effort! Note that this design is based on
> > Chad's original work.
> Bob et al,

> Yes, thanks very much for the effort, guys!  I hope it was fun.
> > The package on the web site contains schematics, parts
> > list, chip selection guide and contruction tips. I didn't

> Now if some industrious individual were to put together
> a complimentary parts package (with or without sensor) to go
> along with the board, I for one would be willing to pay a generous
> surcharge just to avoid the hassle of doing it myself.  Anyone?
> Eric

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 09:51:36 2001
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Bruce wrote:
> 
> DIY WB.
> Do It Yourself, Wide Band.
> This is meant to be TOTALLY NON-PROFIT,
> If someone/folks want to organize a group purchase (of materials), fine.
> Other then that, hell no.
> A bunch of guys, have a ridiculous amount of hours invested in this, and to
> let anyone capitialize on their backs, is flat insulting.   This effort was
> years in the making.   If anyone has a problem, understanding this, write me
> off list, and I'll go over it in detail.
> Bruce

Bruce,

Oops, my big bad, sorry.  I completely missed the profit part of my
suggestion.  For those of us who didn't participate in the project,
but are taking advantage of the work, it sure would be nice to be
able to give the project guys more than just a big "attaboy."

Mea culpa,
Eric

-- 
Eric Fahlgren                            Mechanical Dynamics, Inc
efahl@adams.com                          Ann Arbor, Michigan, USA
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 10:35:39 2001
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I'm looking for a 3"ID flexible hose, rigid enough to take some suction w/o
collapsing.  Its to go from my turbo inlet to the air filter.  The
corregated polyethylene hose used on shopvacs would be great, but its only 2".

Any suggestions as to what I might look for?

Thanks - Barry
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 10:51:38 2001
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From: Stephen Andersen <SAndersen@advan-tek.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: DIY WB update
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 13:44:04 -0400
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I could be very interested in a group purchase.  I am 
an electronics doofus, but I think i could put something
together if I has the board, the parts, and instructions.

Anybody planning on organizing one?

Steve

Stephen M. Andersen, P.E.                              (302) 326-6405
Technical Director                                    FAX  (302) 326-6401
AdvanTek International, LLC                     Cell   (302) 547-9842
56 Read's Way                               andersen@Advan-Tek.com
New Castle, DE 19720


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of Bruce
> Sent: Friday, August 13, 1999 12:06 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org; gmecm@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: DIY WB update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DIY WB.
> Do It Yourself, Wide Band.
> This is meant to be TOTALLY NON-PROFIT,
> If someone/folks want to organize a group purchase (of 
> materials), fine.
> Other then that, hell no.
> A bunch of guys, have a ridiculous amount of hours invested 
> in this, and to
> let anyone capitialize on their backs, is flat insulting.   
> This effort was
> years in the making.   If anyone has a problem, understanding 
> this, write me
> off list, and I'll go over it in detail.
> Bruce
> 
> From: "Eric Fahlgren" <efahl@adams.com>
> Subject: Re: DIY WB update
> > rr wrote:
> > > I want to thank everyone that helped me with the DIY-WB
> > > design. Unfortunately I don't have the list of folks with
> > > me at the moment. So I'll post another thank you later
> > > today giving recognition to everyone on the team. This was
> > > truly a team effort! Note that this design is based on
> > > Chad's original work.
> > Bob et al,
> 
> > Yes, thanks very much for the effort, guys!  I hope it was fun.
> > > The package on the web site contains schematics, parts
> > > list, chip selection guide and contruction tips. I didn't
> 
> > Now if some industrious individual were to put together
> > a complimentary parts package (with or without sensor) to go
> > along with the board, I for one would be willing to pay a generous
> > surcharge just to avoid the hassle of doing it myself.  Anyone?
> > Eric
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> --------------
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" 
> (without the quotes)
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 11:03:34 2001
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Folks, it would be a good thing if someone were to put
a parts kit together. This would help out a lot of folks.

However, this needs to be done by someone who doesn't
have dollar signs in their eyes. Notice the PCB price is
not a nice round number. The reason is that is what the
boards cost, period. We could have easily charged many
times what was actually paid for the boards.

The return for helping out is multi-faceted. There is also
the recognition amongst your peers. You become part of the
DIY-WB team. This is not a money making venture. It is a
hobby.

Thank you,

BobR.
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 11:06:06 2001
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Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 14:05:56 -0400
From: Eric Fahlgren <efahl@adams.com>
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Barry Tisdale wrote:
> 
> I'm looking for a 3"ID flexible hose, rigid enough to take some suction w/o
> collapsing.  Its to go from my turbo inlet to the air filter.  The
> corregated polyethylene hose used on shopvacs would be great, but its only 2".

Vacuum hoses are usually vinyl, I think.  They probably would melt
under the hood.  The ducting from the air box to the turbo inlet
should have very low vacuum (< 1 inch Hg), so it need not be that
rigid.

> Any suggestions as to what I might look for?

How about brake ducting?  Kinda expensive, but it would certainly
get the job done.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/duct.htm

--
Eric Fahlgren                            Mechanical Dynamics, Inc
efahl@adams.com                          Ann Arbor, Michigan, USA
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 11:18:16 2001
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From: Jens Knickmeyer <knickm@gmx.net>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: CAN-bus
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 20:12:57 +0200
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I am not Mr. Dammeyer but...

AFAIK, there is NO standard distribution scheme. When an ECU is developped at Bosch,
ETAS, dSpace or so, they can use whatever IDs they want. Of cource, nobody can
deal with such stuff, so there are other standards. One is CANdb, a file format
by Vector Informatik GmbH. That file works for freerunning ECUs only. It lists every
ID and the encoding scheme of measurement values in the data section of the CAN
message. For example, there are signed/unsigned, data legth, start bit and scaling
information in that file. If you want to measure ECU data, you simply use an application
which can deal with the CANdb format (let's say "Vector CANalyzer"), import your
CANdb file and setup your display or graphic view. That's it. Connect the ECU to power,
start the CANalyzer et voila, there you have your data. CANdb has become a standard
in automotive industry and is used by (e.g.) VW, DaimlerChrysler, BMW, Volvo, Saab,
MAN, Audi etc. CANdb files usually have an extension ".dbc"

Another approach is the ASAP-2 standard. This is a file which also describes ECU data,
but it is suitable for non-freerunning ECUs. The ASAP2 files (extension ".A2L") are much
bigger (8 MB is not quite seldom) and describe nearly everything. An A2L file lists which
protocol is used by the ECU (e.g., CCP and/or KWP2000). For each protocol, the details
are listed. For CCP this would be CRO (command request object), DTO (data transmission
object), DAC-lists and the signals for each list, scaling data for each signal and so on.

When ECUs were mainly using freerunning mode and therefore described by CANdb files,
manufacturers had a company standard for IDs. For example, message identifier 1024
contained engine temperature, air temperature, revs and accelleration, each in 16 bit
signed motorola backward format. Today where ECUs are more and more using the more
sophisticated protocols KWP2000 and CCP, noone really seems to care for such standards.
Engineers expect software to deal with ASAP-2 files and let them chose the signals to be
logged/viewed from a Windows frontend. 

For private use, it is nearly impossible to deal with the new ECUs using CAN and do a few
investigations. When you say "I should be able to identify each identifier just by looking at the data"
then you should be aware of multiplexing being used in CAN messages quite often to reduce
bandwidth. But even for commercial use, there are data aquisition tools missing. There will
soon a device being presented which basically deals with the ECU via CCP or KWP or other 
protocols ) and produces a freerunning output on CAN, thus ensuring that exisiting tools based
on freerunning mode will work even with the new protocols.

Hope this helps more than it confuses...

Jens Knickmeyer

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 11:28:30 2001
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I'll put together several kits.  I won't even ask for any pre-payment,
'cause there is a good chance I have a significant fraction of the parts
on hand.  I won't commit to how many until I get a PCB in my hand.  For
example, I have 3,000 0.1uF caps, but with 0.1" lead spacing.  If the PCB
has 0.1" lead spacing, I can provide these caps really cheap.  Otherwise,
if the leadspacing is 0.2", there is a good chance we would be better off
just buying them.  

I would like to know how many PCBs were made.  I would feel confortable
making at least 1/2 that many parts kits available without pre-payment.

- Steve

On Mon, 13 Aug 2001, rr wrote:

> 
> Folks, it would be a good thing if someone were to put
> a parts kit together. This would help out a lot of folks.
> 
> However, this needs to be done by someone who doesn't
> have dollar signs in their eyes. Notice the PCB price is
> not a nice round number. The reason is that is what the
> boards cost, period. We could have easily charged many
> times what was actually paid for the boards.
> 
> The return for helping out is multi-faceted. There is also
> the recognition amongst your peers. You become part of the
> DIY-WB team. This is not a money making venture. It is a
> hobby.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> BobR.
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To unsubscribe from gmecm, send "unsubscribe gmecm" (without the quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> 

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 11:29:05 2001
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Subject: Re: Non EFI, sort of.
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I beleive the GN MAF ducting hose is.  There was a thread about something
along those lines at www.turbobuick.com in the last couple weeks.  I think
GM discontinued it, but you might check.
Bruce

From: "Barry Tisdale" <btisdale@cybersol.com>
Subject: Non EFI, sort of.
> I'm looking for a 3"ID flexible hose, rigid enough to take some suction
w/o
> collapsing.  Its to go from my turbo inlet to the air filter.  The
> corregated polyethylene hose used on shopvacs would be great, but its only
2".
> Any suggestions as to what I might look for?
> Thanks - Barry


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 11:36:17 2001
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From: "Flanagan, Steve" <Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>,
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Subject: RE: Non EFI, sort of.
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Do not use rubber hose.

Go to your local hardware store (home depot, etc) and look for stove pipe,
the 90 deg
pieces can be spun in many ways to make any shape/bend possible.

That shopvac hose may work but I would not trust.  It can crack due to
heat,etc, and
the last thing you want going through your engine and turbine is plastic.
Use metal,
its the best solution.  

On our drag cars we do not ever use an air filter at all.

Steve 


-----Original Message-----
From: Barry Tisdale [mailto:btisdale@cybersol.com]
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 11:22 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Non EFI, sort of.


I'm looking for a 3"ID flexible hose, rigid enough to take some suction w/o
collapsing.  Its to go from my turbo inlet to the air filter.  The
corregated polyethylene hose used on shopvacs would be great, but its only
2".

Any suggestions as to what I might look for?

Thanks - Barry
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 12:12:11 2001
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From: "justin ivan" <vlkslvr@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: DIY WB update
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 15:11:33 -0400
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As someone who has taken recent interest in this project, I would definately 
appreciate a kit of available. I also volunteer my time as much as possible. 
I am a Mechanical Engineer with almost no pcb experience so I am not sure 
what I can offer. At the very least I will like to post very thorough 
observations if I am ever able to get one of these working.
Sincerely,
Justin Ivan



>From: Steven Ciciora <ciciora@Ciciora.com>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: gmecm@diy-efi.org
>CC: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>Subject: Re: DIY WB update
>Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 12:28:09 -0600 (MDT)
>
>I'll put together several kits.  I won't even ask for any pre-payment,
>'cause there is a good chance I have a significant fraction of the parts
>on hand.  I won't commit to how many until I get a PCB in my hand.  For
>example, I have 3,000 0.1uF caps, but with 0.1" lead spacing.  If the PCB
>has 0.1" lead spacing, I can provide these caps really cheap.  Otherwise,
>if the leadspacing is 0.2", there is a good chance we would be better off
>just buying them.
>
>I would like to know how many PCBs were made.  I would feel confortable
>making at least 1/2 that many parts kits available without pre-payment.
>
>- Steve
>
>On Mon, 13 Aug 2001, rr wrote:
>
> >
> > Folks, it would be a good thing if someone were to put
> > a parts kit together. This would help out a lot of folks.
> >
> > However, this needs to be done by someone who doesn't
> > have dollar signs in their eyes. Notice the PCB price is
> > not a nice round number. The reason is that is what the
> > boards cost, period. We could have easily charged many
> > times what was actually paid for the boards.
> >
> > The return for helping out is multi-faceted. There is also
> > the recognition amongst your peers. You become part of the
> > DIY-WB team. This is not a money making venture. It is a
> > hobby.
> >
> > Thank you,
> >
> > BobR.
> > 
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to 
>majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 13:24:31 2001
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From: Jon <jon@dakota-truck.net>
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On Mon, 13 Aug 2001, Barry Tisdale wrote:

> I'm looking for a 3"ID flexible hose, rigid enough to take some suction w/o
> collapsing.  Its to go from my turbo inlet to the air filter.  The
> corregated polyethylene hose used on shopvacs would be great, but its only 2".
> 
> Any suggestions as to what I might look for?


  You might try to find some 3" flexible exhaust tubing.  Its nowhere near
as flexible as a shop vac hose might be, but depending on what sort of 
routing you need, it may work.  Another option might be to buy some 
mandrel bends from someplace likc JC Whitney or an exhaust shop, then
cut 'em up and put them together however you need to.  (Either by welding
them together or using 3" silicone connectors.)  

                                              -Jon-

 .---- Jon Steiger ------ jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -----.
 |  I'm the: AOPA, DoD, EAA, NMA, NRA, SPA, USUA.   Rec & UL Pilot - SEL  |
 | '70 Barracuda, '92 Ram 4x4, '96 Dakota, '96 Intruder 1400, '96 FireFly |
 `----------------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com ----'



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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 13:34:19 2001
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From: "Raymond Brantley" <raymond@iwantperformance.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Non EFI, sort of.
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 15:35:29 -0500
Message-ID: <PHEHIJGFPCMMMAFJGBPPMEMGCEAA.raymond@iwantperformance.net>
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Barry, at one time I worked for a Mack truck dealership and we would usually
go to aftermarket hose suppliers for all types of hose when we didn't have
the mack replacement or were doing a custom setup. We used some high
quality/high temp stuff. Here in the DFW area there is a company called
Stuarthose http://www.stuarthose.com believe me they probably have what you
want. Beware of the price though, I picked up some 4" orange wire reinforced
(siloflex ??) and it was 15 bucks a foot ! I used that hose for the air
inlet on a supercharged vehicle it has a smooth surface on the inside and
won't collapse.


Thanks,
Raymond

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Barry Tisdale
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 10:22 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Non EFI, sort of.


I'm looking for a 3"ID flexible hose, rigid enough to take some suction w/o
collapsing.  Its to go from my turbo inlet to the air filter.  The
corregated polyethylene hose used on shopvacs would be great, but its only
2".

Any suggestions as to what I might look for?

Thanks - Barry
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 14:13:44 2001
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From: "Rich M" <rsrich@cwcom.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Non EFI, sort of.
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 22:04:51 +0100
Message-ID: <LPBBICKAAPGAPNLEKGLIOECNCIAA.rsrich@cwcom.net>
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In the UK we have Samcosport hoses - they are a fabric reinforced silicone
rubber layup and specifically aimed at turbo boost and coolant hoses,
resistant to both pressure and vacuum. They range in size from about 2"
upwards and come in pre-formed shapes to suit specific application fitment
and also various bends, straights and reducers.
www.samcosport.com for more info.
Hope this may help
Cheers
Rich

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of Flanagan, Steve
> Sent: 13 August 2001 19:22
> To: 'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'; 'btisdale@cybersol.com'
> Subject: RE: Non EFI, sort of.
>
>
>
> Do not use rubber hose.
>
> Go to your local hardware store (home depot, etc) and look for stove pipe,
> the 90 deg
> pieces can be spun in many ways to make any shape/bend possible.
>
> That shopvac hose may work but I would not trust.  It can crack due to
> heat,etc, and
> the last thing you want going through your engine and turbine is plastic.
> Use metal,
> its the best solution.
>
> On our drag cars we do not ever use an air filter at all.
>
> Steve
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Barry Tisdale [mailto:btisdale@cybersol.com]
> Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 11:22 AM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Non EFI, sort of.
>
>
> I'm looking for a 3"ID flexible hose, rigid enough to take some
> suction w/o
> collapsing.  Its to go from my turbo inlet to the air filter.  The
> corregated polyethylene hose used on shopvacs would be great, but its only
> 2".
>
> Any suggestions as to what I might look for?
>
> Thanks - Barry
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 14:33:58 2001
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Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 17:33:17 EDT
Subject: Re: DIY WB explanation
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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I'm a little new to this whole DIY-EFI thing, and so a lot of this stuff is a 
little over my head. Could someone please send me an email explaining what 
this is and why it is useful? 

Thanks!
Bill K

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 15:47:52 2001
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Subject: DIY-WB design team
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As you have probably noticed there is a new release of the WB
O2 project. First and foremost it was Bruce Plecan that drove
the initial design process. With the analog design ability of Chad
Clendening a DIY-WB design appeared late last year.

Chad's design worked. I built it on a breadboard with a sensor
attached. Initially some minor changes were made to the design.
It wasn't until the 2nd EFI POW WOW that I met several people
that could help with the various aspects that required attention.

>From there the help blossomed. It took all of us to come to this
final design. So, I want to introduce the people that make up the
DIY-WB design team:

Bruce Plecan
Chad Clendening
Bruce Roe
Jason Haines
Mark Riley
Scott "Dig" Bartholomay
Scott Pearson
Bob Valentine
Kevin Wong

Thank you & a job well done!

BobR.


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 16:28:13 2001
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Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 16:01:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Non EFI, sort of.
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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Organization: Maximum Overdrive Racing Engines * Jacksonville AR USA
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-> I'm looking for a 3"ID flexible hose, rigid enough to take some
-> suction w/o collapsing.  Its to go from my turbo inlet to the air
-> filter.  The corregated polyethylene hose used on shopvacs would be
-> great, but its only 2".

 Use muffler pipe and rubber couplers.  I've had OEM stiff plastic
remote filter hoses collapse even with new filters; not a lot of
restriction, but underhood heat softens the plastic.
                                        
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 19:19:48 2001
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From: bearbvd@cmn.net (Greg Hermann)
Subject: Re: Non EFI, sort of.
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At 4:24 PM 8/13/01, Jon wrote:
>On Mon, 13 Aug 2001, Barry Tisdale wrote:
>
>> I'm looking for a 3"ID flexible hose, rigid enough to take some suction w/o
>> collapsing.  Its to go from my turbo inlet to the air filter.  The
>> corregated polyethylene hose used on shopvacs would be great, but its
>>only 2".
>>
>> Any suggestions as to what I might look for?

If you want to go really hi-tech, there are some outfits (Hy-Span comes to
mind) who make rolled steel bellows--for expansion joints and such
(industrial pip;ing applications) out of type 321 stainless steel. This is
the sort of stuff you might see covering the slip type expansion joints on
aircraft (piston) engine headers.

Greg


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 13 22:01:16 2001
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http://mcmaster.com

Search for "Santoprene Hose" been using the 60mm size for a year or so, 
works great, bends tight and will set  to a shape after a while.

-Dom

On Monday, August 13, 2001, at 08:21  AM, Barry Tisdale wrote:

> I'm looking for a 3"ID flexible hose, rigid enough to take some suction 
> w/o
> collapsing.  Its to go from my turbo inlet to the air filter.  The
> corregated polyethylene hose used on shopvacs would be great, but its 
> only 2".
>
> Any suggestions as to what I might look for?
>
> Thanks - Barry
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the 
> quotes)
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> efi.org
>
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug 14 00:19:23 2001
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Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 08:16:30 +0200
From: Arnaud Westenberg <arnaud@wanadoo.nl>
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Subject: Re: CAN-bus
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Jens Knickmeyer wrote:
> 
> I am not Mr. Dammeyer but...

That's ok :-)

> One is CANdb, a file format
> by Vector Informatik GmbH.

I've 'heard' of CANdb, but I didn't realize manufacturers are really
using it. Thanks for all the great info!!!

Regards,


Arnaud
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug 14 05:43:37 2001
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Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 08:41:29 -0400
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: Barry Tisdale <btisdale@cybersol.com>
Subject: Re: DIY WB update
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Is the link to the ftp site broken, or is it my browser??  Looking for the
WB info.

Barry
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug 14 05:54:34 2001
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From: "Glenn & Debbie Woodhouse" <gwoodhouse2@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>, <DIY_EFI-Digest@lists.diy-efi.org>
Subject: Recall: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #696
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 06:59:01 -0600
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Glenn & Debbie Woodhouse would like to recall the message, "DIY_EFI Digest
V5 #696".

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug 14 05:55:54 2001
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From: "Glenn & Debbie Woodhouse" <gwoodhouse2@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>, <DIY_EFI-Digest@lists.diy-efi.org>
Subject: Recall: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #696
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 06:59:01 -0600
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Glenn & Debbie Woodhouse would like to recall the message, "DIY_EFI Digest
V5 #696".

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug 14 07:14:29 2001
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From: "Brian Lewis" <brian@pe-ltd.com>
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References: <200108110800.BAA04532@hektor.valesh.com>
Subject: Ignition Current Limit
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 10:15:16 -0400
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Hi All;

Does anyone know how the auto manufacturers handle ignition? Are most of the
systems still inductive in nature or CDI? If inductive, how do they handle
current regulation through the primary coil? Also, do any of the igniters
out there (Bosch for example) regulate current or are they simply a potted
transistor. Thanks in advance.

Brian

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug 14 07:20:46 2001
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From: Stephen Andersen <SAndersen@advan-tek.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: DIY WB update
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 10:13:13 -0400
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Question:

Would it be possible to "hire" someone or a company
to put the boards together (assemble all of the components
to the board) and buy a batch of completed boards without
violating the spirit of the "no-one should profit" from the
WB?

Could we get enough group interest to have some electronics 
company in silicon valley build the boards for us for 
a reasonable amount?

Anyone have any input or ideas?

I am a Mech E and looking at the schematics and considering
my limited soldering skills, am worried that I will either
fry components, or build a board which does not work and 
will be nearly impossible to troubleshoot.  

If doing this would not violate the spirit of the WB effort,
I would be happy to check a couple of sources for costs
and quantities required to do this.

I of course do not intend to profit from this, just looking 
to get myself a WB O2 without shelling out the retail rates...

Steve

Stephen M. Andersen, P.E.                              (302) 326-6405
Technical Director                                    FAX  (302) 326-6401
AdvanTek International, LLC                     Cell   (302) 547-9842
56 Read's Way                               andersen@Advan-Tek.com
New Castle, DE 19720


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of Steven Ciciora
> Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 2:28 PM
> To: gmecm@diy-efi.org
> Cc: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: DIY WB update
> 
> 
> I'll put together several kits.  I won't even ask for any pre-payment,
> 'cause there is a good chance I have a significant fraction 
> of the parts
> on hand.  I won't commit to how many until I get a PCB in my 
> hand.  For
> example, I have 3,000 0.1uF caps, but with 0.1" lead spacing. 
>  If the PCB
> has 0.1" lead spacing, I can provide these caps really cheap. 
>  Otherwise,
> if the leadspacing is 0.2", there is a good chance we would 
> be better off
> just buying them.  
> 
> I would like to know how many PCBs were made.  I would feel 
> confortable
> making at least 1/2 that many parts kits available without 
> pre-payment.
> 
> - Steve
> 
> On Mon, 13 Aug 2001, rr wrote:
> 
> > 
> > Folks, it would be a good thing if someone were to put
> > a parts kit together. This would help out a lot of folks.
> > 
> > However, this needs to be done by someone who doesn't
> > have dollar signs in their eyes. Notice the PCB price is
> > not a nice round number. The reason is that is what the
> > boards cost, period. We could have easily charged many
> > times what was actually paid for the boards.
> > 
> > The return for helping out is multi-faceted. There is also
> > the recognition amongst your peers. You become part of the
> > DIY-WB team. This is not a money making venture. It is a
> > hobby.
> > 
> > Thank you,
> > 
> > BobR.
> > 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> --------------
> > To unsubscribe from gmecm, send "unsubscribe gmecm" 
> (without the quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to 
> majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> > 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug 14 07:23:39 2001
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From: Andrew Theurer <andrewt@austin.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #696
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 09:21:53 -0500
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Barry,

http://www.hosexpress.com

hose type: SW-360

This is what I am ordering today in 4" for my twin turbo setup.  Good to 
about 350F and semi flexible, dual helix coil to eliminate collapsing.  
$13/ft.  

Andrew Theurer

P.S.  I have _never_ successfully sub'd in _non_ digest mode for this email 
list.  I haven't tried (again) in a while, but just wondering, is there 
actually a non-digest version??



Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 11:21:38 -0400
From: Barry Tisdale <btisdale@cybersol.com>
Subject: Non EFI, sort of.

I'm looking for a 3"ID flexible hose, rigid enough to take some suction w/o
collapsing.  Its to go from my turbo inlet to the air filter.  The
corregated polyethylene hose used on shopvacs would be great, but its only 2".

Any suggestions as to what I might look for?

Thanks - Barry
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug 14 08:16:36 2001
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Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 08:16:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Phil Hunter <ilphayunterhay@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Non EFI, sort of.
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Eric Fahlgren wrote:
[snip]

> The ducting from the air box to the turbo inlet
> should have very low vacuum (< 1 inch Hg), so it
> need not be that rigid.

Don't forget Bernoulli, high speed air inside the
tubing w/ static air pressure outside, I've heard
of even aluminum dryer vent ducting collapsing.

regards,
phil

__________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug 14 10:45:57 2001
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I'm not sure if this reached the diy-efi list. So I'm
just forwarding it over. . .

BobR.

On Tue, 14 Aug 2001 04:16:36 -0400
 Bob Valentine <bob@tecmark.com> wrote:
> As of right now, all the boards which were produced have
> been allocated.
> If you sent an email to wideband@tecmark.com and have NOT
> recieved a reply
> with price & shipping info it means that there were none
> availible to fill
> your request.  
> 
> The GOOD news is that more will be produced.   Before
> ordering more, we'd
> like to have an idea as to how many we should have made.
> To facilitate
> this, I have made a web page to get name, address, and
> quantity requested
> info:
> 
> http://208.37.117.207/wb.html
> 
> No tables, frames, CSS, ect any web browser should be
> able to use it. Sorry
> for the numeric IP, it's not a thing of beauty - I'm not
> a webmaster.   
>   
> If you already ordered your limit of two, and want more,
> enter it there.   
> 
> All questions about DIY-WB board orders go OFF-LIST to
> wideband@tecmark.com
> 
> -> Bob Valentine
> -> bob@tecmark.com
> -> wideband@tecmark.com  for DIY-WB board inquires
> 
> 
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug 14 16:44:32 2001
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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 09:47:07 +1000
From: Peter Gargano <peter@techedge.com.au>
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After consulting with the DIY-WB design team, it seems
likely that I'll organise some locally made DIY-WB boards.
This has the advantage of getting boards out to local people
who would otherwise find having to organise payment, freight
etc. a limiting task.

I'm still trying to nail down a price - the cut price people
must have more work than they can handle 8-( but I expect to
get it at about the US$ price, say less than AU$20, and with
shipping I expect that price to be AU$20. I hope to get as many
boards made as will fit on the largest prototype area possible.

My business has Mastercard/Visa facility for payment, but I
must stress that I'm doing this strictly as a DIY, after-hours
and TOTALLY non-profit operation in the spirit of the project.

For this to be a go-er, I need to get enough people to justify
the order cost, so if you're interested, send me an email:

  mailto:wideband@techedge.com.au?subject=Order

Depending on order vs manufacturing quantity, I may juggle
the number of boards an individual may order. If you have made
a US order, then you also need to tell me. I intend to get a
US made board myself, just to assure myself everything is okay.

Peter.
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug 14 17:06:34 2001
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References: <3B77DAA1.DB1B0AD@arm.com> <3.0.1.32.20010814084129.006b6f28@smtp.cybersol.com>
Subject: Re: DIY WB update
Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 14:36:31 -0500
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the link doesn't seem to be completely correct... i can't get to a server
called ftp.diy-efi.org but i can get to diy-efi.org

i was able to get the file from
ftp://diy-efi.org/pub/diy_efi/project_files/diy-wb.zip

> Is the link to the ftp site broken, or is it my browser??  Looking for the
> WB info.
>


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 00:11:31 2001
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From: Peter Gargano <peter@techedge.com.au>
Organization: Tech Edge Pty. Ltd. - ABN 40 057 140 137
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To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org, gmecm@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Australian NTK/NGK sensor purchase
References: <3B79B87B.1E7F9B3F@techedge.com.au>
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I've had a few people interested in getting the sensor with
the DIY-WB board - I'm expecting AU$240 delivered to Australia
per sensor. I'm going to do a group purchase some time next week,
so contact me before 20th Aug if you want to be in on it. I can
accept Mastercard/Visa payment.

OTOH, if you've got some local contact(s) that can do it for the
same price or less, for 5 or more sensor, then contact me too,
I'd prefer to keep the money IN Australia! And remember, this is
a DIY, non-profit, noncommercial purchase (I'll organise the
purchase if someone has a better price but otherwise doesn't want
to get involved).

The sensor is from a non-Californian US model Honda Civic VX,
1992-1995, part # 36531-P07-003 - This part is listed locally
and the best price I've negotiated (one phone call, in Canberra)
is AU$310, so a US purchase is $70 less (plus freight costs).

This part is available from The Parts Bin (but not as I write
this - they are out of stock - ETA 10 days) as [a Bosch] sensor
for US$117:

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/partsbin/quote.jsp?product=36531-P07-003&Submit=GO&partner=partsbin&action=search&cart=&partnerSession=++&usemake=

And from NAPA Online as [an Echlin] sensor OS791 for US$139
(Napa Online fails the "friendly web site" award):

http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NAPAonline/adv_search_rslt2.d2w/report?part_number=os791&Search_Part=YES

I couldn't navigate to a genuine Honda part, but it'll be
a lot more (sorry Honda, your site also sucks WRT actual
useful content/information)!

Peter.
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 00:55:52 2001
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From: "Daniel" <bossute@iprimus.com.au>
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References: <3B79B87B.1E7F9B3F@techedge.com.au> <3B7A20D5.16B03EC@techedge.com.au>
Subject: Re: Australian NTK/NGK sensor purchase
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 15:56:49 +0800
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Count me in on a sensor too please Peter
Email when you require card details

While you are at it whats the chances of a group purchase for the components
etc as a kit ?


Daniel Collins
bossute@iprimus.com.au

----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Gargano" <peter@techedge.com.au>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>; <gmecm@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: Australian NTK/NGK sensor purchase


> I've had a few people interested in getting the sensor with
> the DIY-WB board - I'm expecting AU$240 delivered to Australia
> per sensor. I'm going to do a group purchase some time next week,
> so contact me before 20th Aug if you want to be in on it. I can
> accept Mastercard/Visa payment.
>
> OTOH, if you've got some local contact(s) that can do it for the
> same price or less, for 5 or more sensor, then contact me too,
> I'd prefer to keep the money IN Australia! And remember, this is
> a DIY, non-profit, noncommercial purchase (I'll organise the
> purchase if someone has a better price but otherwise doesn't want
> to get involved).
>
> The sensor is from a non-Californian US model Honda Civic VX,
> 1992-1995, part # 36531-P07-003 - This part is listed locally
> and the best price I've negotiated (one phone call, in Canberra)
> is AU$310, so a US purchase is $70 less (plus freight costs).
>
> This part is available from The Parts Bin (but not as I write
> this - they are out of stock - ETA 10 days) as [a Bosch] sensor
> for US$117:
>
>
http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/partsbin/quote.jsp?product=36531-P07-00
3&Submit=GO&partner=partsbin&action=search&cart=&partnerSession=++&usemake=
>
> And from NAPA Online as [an Echlin] sensor OS791 for US$139
> (Napa Online fails the "friendly web site" award):
>
>
http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NAPAonline/adv_search
_rslt2.d2w/report?part_number=os791&Search_Part=YES
>
> I couldn't navigate to a genuine Honda part, but it'll be
> a lot more (sorry Honda, your site also sucks WRT actual
> useful content/information)!
>
> Peter.
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 01:31:17 2001
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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 18:33:55 +1000
From: Peter Gargano <peter@techedge.com.au>
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References: <3B79B87B.1E7F9B3F@techedge.com.au> <3B7A20D5.16B03EC@techedge.com.au> <00a101c1255f$d70da100$f56832d2@ajasonm>
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Daniel wrote:
> 
> While you are at it whats the chances of a group purchase for the components
> etc as a kit ?

I need to do some local pricing, so, let me think about it ...

   mailto:wideband@techedge.com.au?subject=Order

Peter
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 01:33:24 2001
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From: Peter Gargano <peter@techedge.com.au>
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To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Orcad --> Protel?
References: <3B79B87B.1E7F9B3F@techedge.com.au> <3B7A20D5.16B03EC@techedge.com.au> <00a101c1255f$d70da100$f56832d2@ajasonm>
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Anyone familiar with the 30 day trial Protel-99 version?

Can it import Orcad stuff successfully?

Peter
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 02:01:51 2001
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Subject: Re: Ignition Current Limit
Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 17:42:18 +0100
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Most car ignitions are still inductive. CDI tends to cause too much radiated
interference and also does not seem to fire fouled plugs as well. Primary
current is usually controlled in two ways: either by directly measuring the
current and altering the dwell time to suit or by using a fixed dwell time
(not dwell angle) that does not allow the coil to saturate. With the second
method the dwell time is sometimes adjusted depending on battery voltage.

Les


> Hi All;
>
> Does anyone know how the auto manufacturers handle ignition? Are most of
the
> systems still inductive in nature or CDI? If inductive, how do they handle
> current regulation through the primary coil? Also, do any of the igniters
> out there (Bosch for example) regulate current or are they simply a potted
> transistor. Thanks in advance.
>
> Brian
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 05:21:29 2001
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Subject: Re: Orcad --> Protel?
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 10:24:22 +0100
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It seems to do a reasonable job of importing Orcad designs but be warned
Protel needs a 100Ghz machine with 1G memory (or maybe a Cray2) to run at a
sensible speed. Otherwise be prepared to spend quite a lot of time waiting
for things to happen! Protel also has a tendency to crash on a fairly
regular basis.

Les


> Anyone familiar with the 30 day trial Protel-99 version?
>
> Can it import Orcad stuff successfully?
>
> Peter
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 05:50:14 2001
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Subject: RE: Kits for WBO2
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 08:47:53 -0400
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Would there be any big savings by organizing a group buy for the 02 Sensors.

I assume there could be a nice savings when ordered in quantity.

The guys on the other side of the world are ordering them in quantity and
looks
like they are getting them for $70 US.

Does anyone have any price info on what the sensor could be bought for in
quantity?

Steve F

-----Original Message-----
From: Steven Ciciora [mailto:ciciora@Ciciora.com]
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 2:28 PM
To: gmecm@diy-efi.org
Cc: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Kits for WBO2


I'll put together several kits.  I won't even ask for any pre-payment,
'cause there is a good chance I have a significant fraction of the parts
on hand.  I won't commit to how many until I get a PCB in my hand.  For
example, I have 3,000 0.1uF caps, but with 0.1" lead spacing.  If the PCB
has 0.1" lead spacing, I can provide these caps really cheap.  Otherwise,
if the leadspacing is 0.2", there is a good chance we would be better off
just buying them.  

I would like to know how many PCBs were made.  I would feel confortable
making at least 1/2 that many parts kits available without pre-payment.

- Steve

On Mon, 13 Aug 2001, rr wrote:

> 
> Folks, it would be a good thing if someone were to put
> a parts kit together. This would help out a lot of folks.
> 
> However, this needs to be done by someone who doesn't
> have dollar signs in their eyes. Notice the PCB price is
> not a nice round number. The reason is that is what the
> boards cost, period. We could have easily charged many
> times what was actually paid for the boards.
> 
> The return for helping out is multi-faceted. There is also
> the recognition amongst your peers. You become part of the
> DIY-WB team. This is not a money making venture. It is a
> hobby.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> BobR.
>
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$70US, where?.
Best price I've seen lately is $139.
So far hasn't been any retailer willing to discount for a group purchase
that I've found or heard of.
Bruce



From: "Flanagan, Steve" <Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com>
Subject: RE: Kits for WBO2
> Would there be any big savings by organizing a group buy for the 02
Sensors.
> I assume there could be a nice savings when ordered in quantity.
> The guys on the other side of the world are ordering them in quantity and
> looks
> like they are getting them for $70 US.
> Does anyone have any price info on what the sensor could be bought for in
> quantity?
> Steve F


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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 06:13:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Orcad --> Protel?
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
In-Reply-To: <00a301c123f1$fc874ae0$8c169fd4@leslie>
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I know I'm a little late to the party but is there any
need for layout help on the DIY-WB?  I have access to
OrCAD and PADS and some experience with layout. 

As for cheap layout tools your best bet is the limited
version of Eagle.  Or ExpressPCB but that tool is
pretty limited and it doesn't import netlists from
schematics.
-Matt

--- Les Newell <les@lnewell.screaming.net> wrote:
> It seems to do a reasonable job of importing Orcad
> designs but be warned
> Protel needs a 100Ghz machine with 1G memory (or
> maybe a Cray2) to run at a
> sensible speed. Otherwise be prepared to spend quite
> a lot of time waiting
> for things to happen! Protel also has a tendency to
> crash on a fairly
> regular basis.
> 
> Les
> 
> 
> > Anyone familiar with the 30 day trial Protel-99
> version?
> >
> > Can it import Orcad stuff successfully?
> >
> > Peter
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 06:17:31 2001
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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 09:16:02 -0400
From: Eric Fahlgren <efahl@adams.com>
Organization: Mechanical Dynamics, Inc.
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Subject: Re: Kits for WBO2
References: <BD1C4EE97EE5D4119AE50008C791884402BF7777@hqbedex1.corp.bam.com> <004d01c006b8$0ecf7540$0c258fd1@bruce>
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Bruce wrote:
> 
> $70US, where?.
> Best price I've seen lately is $139.
> So far hasn't been any retailer willing to discount for a group purchase
> that I've found or heard of.
> Bruce

I think Steve misinterpreted Peter Gargano's quoted price comments:

> 
> The sensor is from a non-Californian US model Honda Civic VX,
> 1992-1995, part # 36531-P07-003 - This part is listed locally
> and the best price I've negotiated (one phone call, in Canberra)
> is AU$310, so a US purchase is $70 less (plus freight costs).
> 
> This part is available from The Parts Bin (but not as I write
> this - they are out of stock - ETA 10 days) as [a Bosch] sensor
> for US$117:
> 
> http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/partsbin/quote.jsp?product=36531-P07-003&Submit=GO&partner=partsbin&action=search&cart=&partnerSession=++&usemake=
> 

Not an absolute price of US$70, rather our price is $70 below their's.

The US$117 is the best I've seen, but it appears to be vaporware
right now.

-- 
Eric Fahlgren                            Mechanical Dynamics, Inc
efahl@adams.com                          Ann Arbor, Michigan, USA
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From: "Flanagan, Steve" <Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>,
        "'gmecm@diy-efi.org'"
	 <gmecm@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Kits for WBO2
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 09:21:42 -0400
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----Original Message-----
From: Bruce [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 8:55 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Kits for WBO2

$70US, where?.

[ BRUCE: READ POST BELOW FROM PETER, HE MENTIONS THE $70 US]

Best price I've seen lately is $139.
So far hasn't been any retailer willing to discount for a group purchase
that I've found or heard of.
Bruce

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Gargano [mailto:peter@techedge.com.au]
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 3:12 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org; gmecm@diy-efi.org
Subject: Sensor purchase and Australian NTK/NGK sensor purchase

I've had a few people interested in getting the sensor with
the DIY-WB board - I'm expecting AU$240 delivered to Australia
per sensor. I'm going to do a group purchase some time next week,
so contact me before 20th Aug if you want to be in on it. I can
accept Mastercard/Visa payment.

OTOH, if you've got some local contact(s) that can do it for the
same price or less, for 5 or more sensor, then contact me too,
I'd prefer to keep the money IN Australia! And remember, this is
a DIY, non-profit, noncommercial purchase (I'll organise the
purchase if someone has a better price but otherwise doesn't want
to get involved).

The sensor is from a non-Californian US model Honda Civic VX,
1992-1995, part # 36531-P07-003 - This part is listed locally
and the best price I've negotiated (one phone call, in Canberra)
is AU$310, so a US purchase is $70 less (plus freight costs).

This part is available from The Parts Bin (but not as I write
this - they are out of stock - ETA 10 days) as [a Bosch] sensor
for US$117:

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/partsbin/quote.jsp?product=36531-P07-00
3&Submit=GO&partner=partsbin&action=search&cart=&partnerSession=++&usemake=

And from NAPA Online as [an Echlin] sensor OS791 for US$139
(Napa Online fails the "friendly web site" award):

http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NAPAonline/adv_search
_rslt2.d2w/report?part_number=os791&Search_Part=YES

-



From: "Flanagan, Steve" <Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com>
Subject: RE: Kits for WBO2
> Would there be any big savings by organizing a group buy for the 02
Sensors.
> I assume there could be a nice savings when ordered in quantity.
> The guys on the other side of the world are ordering them in quantity and
> looks
> like they are getting them for $70 US.
> Does anyone have any price info on what the sensor could be bought for in
> quantity?
> Steve F


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 06:36:13 2001
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Subject: Re: Orcad --> Protel?
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Which file in the zip file contains the PCB layout? The .prt file?

Jess
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Henson" <hensonator@yahoo.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 7:13 AM
Subject: Re: Orcad --> Protel?


> I know I'm a little late to the party but is there any
> need for layout help on the DIY-WB?  I have access to
> OrCAD and PADS and some experience with layout.
>
> As for cheap layout tools your best bet is the limited
> version of Eagle.  Or ExpressPCB but that tool is
> pretty limited and it doesn't import netlists from
> schematics.
> -Matt
>
> --- Les Newell <les@lnewell.screaming.net> wrote:
> > It seems to do a reasonable job of importing Orcad
> > designs but be warned
> > Protel needs a 100Ghz machine with 1G memory (or
> > maybe a Cray2) to run at a
> > sensible speed. Otherwise be prepared to spend quite
> > a lot of time waiting
> > for things to happen! Protel also has a tendency to
> > crash on a fairly
> > regular basis.
> >
> > Les
> >
> >
> > > Anyone familiar with the 30 day trial Protel-99
> > version?
> > >
> > > Can it import Orcad stuff successfully?
> > >
> > > Peter
> > >
> >
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > --
> > > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe
> > diy_efi" (without the
> > quotes)
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> > majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> > >
> >
> >
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 07:10:26 2001
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From: Eric Fahlgren <efahl@adams.com>
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Phil Hunter wrote:
> 
> Eric Fahlgren wrote:
> [snip]
> 
> > The ducting from the air box to the turbo inlet
> > should have very low vacuum (< 1 inch Hg), so it
> > need not be that rigid.
> 
> Don't forget Bernoulli, high speed air inside the
> tubing w/ static air pressure outside, I've heard
> of even aluminum dryer vent ducting collapsing.

Phil,

I wish you wouldn't do this to me.  I just had to figure out
how much vacuum Bernoulli caused, so here ya go.  It's not too
much, unless your pipe is too small.  Any aero guys on the list
that can give us some insight on velocities and roughness?

http://members.home.net/pfahlgren/cars/turbo/velocity.html

(One missing piece is the use of the input temperature to change
rho for the Bernoulli computations; temp is used for the Reynolds
number.)

Eric

-- 
Eric Fahlgren                            Mechanical Dynamics, Inc
efahl@adams.com                          Ann Arbor, Michigan, USA
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 07:11:56 2001
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Subject: Re: Kits for WBO2
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I don't follow the part about the sensor being a bosch... i thought we
needed the 5-wire NTK for this?  and i thought that's what came in the
hondas... are the two sensors compatible?  even if they are, aren't the
NTK's faster responding sensors?

>
> This part is available from The Parts Bin (but not as I write
> this - they are out of stock - ETA 10 days) as [a Bosch] sensor
> for US$117:
>


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 07:51:52 2001
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Hi Peter,

Check with Motec they are using the same sensor for their new wideband

display and are retailing them at about $240 or so per each.

The bulk order may cut some mustard with them.


phil

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 08:50:41 2001
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Steve, read it again. It is $70 less then the Australian quote.

Jörgen

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of Flanagan, Steve
> Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 3:22 PM
> To: 'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'; 'gmecm@diy-efi.org'
> Subject: RE: Kits for WBO2
>
>
> ----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce [mailto:nacelp@bright.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 8:55 AM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: Kits for WBO2
>
> $70US, where?.
>
> [ BRUCE: READ POST BELOW FROM PETER, HE MENTIONS THE $70 US]
>
> Best price I've seen lately is $139.
> So far hasn't been any retailer willing to discount for a group purchase
> that I've found or heard of.
> Bruce
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peter Gargano [mailto:peter@techedge.com.au]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 3:12 AM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org; gmecm@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Sensor purchase and Australian NTK/NGK sensor purchase
>
> I've had a few people interested in getting the sensor with
> the DIY-WB board - I'm expecting AU$240 delivered to Australia
> per sensor. I'm going to do a group purchase some time next week,
> so contact me before 20th Aug if you want to be in on it. I can
> accept Mastercard/Visa payment.
>
> OTOH, if you've got some local contact(s) that can do it for the
> same price or less, for 5 or more sensor, then contact me too,
> I'd prefer to keep the money IN Australia! And remember, this is
> a DIY, non-profit, noncommercial purchase (I'll organise the
> purchase if someone has a better price but otherwise doesn't want
> to get involved).
>
> The sensor is from a non-Californian US model Honda Civic VX,
> 1992-1995, part # 36531-P07-003 - This part is listed locally
> and the best price I've negotiated (one phone call, in Canberra)
> is AU$310, so a US purchase is $70 less (plus freight costs).
>
> This part is available from The Parts Bin (but not as I write
> this - they are out of stock - ETA 10 days) as [a Bosch] sensor
> for US$117:
>
> http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/partsbin/quote.jsp?product=36
531-P07-00
3&Submit=GO&partner=partsbin&action=search&cart=&partnerSession=++&usemake=

And from NAPA Online as [an Echlin] sensor OS791 for US$139
(Napa Online fails the "friendly web site" award):

http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NAPAonline/adv_search
_rslt2.d2w/report?part_number=os791&Search_Part=YES

-



From: "Flanagan, Steve" <Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com>
Subject: RE: Kits for WBO2
> Would there be any big savings by organizing a group buy for the 02
Sensors.
> I assume there could be a nice savings when ordered in quantity.
> The guys on the other side of the world are ordering them in quantity and
> looks
> like they are getting them for $70 US.
> Does anyone have any price info on what the sensor could be bought for in
> quantity?
> Steve F


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 08:54:51 2001
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There isn't a layout included in the package. That was a
mis-communication. The .prt file is the parts list. Are you
really interested in a layout with PCBs so cheap?

BobR.

Jess Gypin wrote:

> Which file in the zip file contains the PCB layout? The .prt file?
>
> Jess
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Matt Henson" <hensonator@yahoo.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 7:13 AM
> Subject: Re: Orcad --> Protel?
>
> > I know I'm a little late to the party but is there any
> > need for layout help on the DIY-WB?  I have access to
> > OrCAD and PADS and some experience with layout.
> >
> > As for cheap layout tools your best bet is the limited
> > version of Eagle.  Or ExpressPCB but that tool is
> > pretty limited and it doesn't import netlists from
> > schematics.
> > -Matt
> >
> > --- Les Newell <les@lnewell.screaming.net> wrote:
> > > It seems to do a reasonable job of importing Orcad
> > > designs but be warned
> > > Protel needs a 100Ghz machine with 1G memory (or
> > > maybe a Cray2) to run at a
> > > sensible speed. Otherwise be prepared to spend quite
> > > a lot of time waiting
> > > for things to happen! Protel also has a tendency to
> > > crash on a fairly
> > > regular basis.
> > >
> > > Les
> > >
> > >
> > > > Anyone familiar with the 30 day trial Protel-99
> > > version?
> > > >
> > > > Can it import Orcad stuff successfully?
> > > >
> > > > Peter
> > > >
> > >

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 09:36:23 2001
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Not really. I was just wanting to see the board layout. I am happy to just
wait on the boards.

Jess
----- Original Message -----
From: "rr" <RRauscher@nni.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: Orcad --> Protel?


>
> There isn't a layout included in the package. That was a
> mis-communication. The .prt file is the parts list. Are you
> really interested in a layout with PCBs so cheap?
>
> BobR.
>
> Jess Gypin wrote:
>
> > Which file in the zip file contains the PCB layout? The .prt file?
> >
> > Jess
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Matt Henson" <hensonator@yahoo.com>
> > To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 7:13 AM
> > Subject: Re: Orcad --> Protel?
> >
> > > I know I'm a little late to the party but is there any
> > > need for layout help on the DIY-WB?  I have access to
> > > OrCAD and PADS and some experience with layout.
> > >
> > > As for cheap layout tools your best bet is the limited
> > > version of Eagle.  Or ExpressPCB but that tool is
> > > pretty limited and it doesn't import netlists from
> > > schematics.
> > > -Matt
> > >
> > > --- Les Newell <les@lnewell.screaming.net> wrote:
> > > > It seems to do a reasonable job of importing Orcad
> > > > designs but be warned
> > > > Protel needs a 100Ghz machine with 1G memory (or
> > > > maybe a Cray2) to run at a
> > > > sensible speed. Otherwise be prepared to spend quite
> > > > a lot of time waiting
> > > > for things to happen! Protel also has a tendency to
> > > > crash on a fairly
> > > > regular basis.
> > > >
> > > > Les
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Anyone familiar with the 30 day trial Protel-99
> > > > version?
> > > > >
> > > > > Can it import Orcad stuff successfully?
> > > > >
> > > > > Peter
> > > > >
> > > >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
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>
>
>

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Ah, someone else asked about this also. I dropped a scan
of a built board on incoming: DIY-WB0.jpg (sorry about
the mixed case).

This is the board mounted to the box lid with the heater
current limiting resistor visable on hte lid. The LT1086 is
mounted to the lid under the board.

Heater-on LED is still on the board. Will be moved to the
through-hole in the lid. Second hole in lid is for a power
on indicator. (Using a 1K resistor to B+ for powering it).

The wires will go to a through style terminal strip mounted
on outside of box.

BobR.

Jess Gypin wrote:

> Not really. I was just wanting to see the board layout. I am happy to just
> wait on the boards.
>
> Jess
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "rr" <RRauscher@nni.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 9:55 AM
> Subject: Re: Orcad --> Protel?
>
> >
> > There isn't a layout included in the package. That was a
> > mis-communication. The .prt file is the parts list. Are you
> > really interested in a layout with PCBs so cheap?
> >
> > BobR.
> >
> > Jess Gypin wrote:
> >
> > > Which file in the zip file contains the PCB layout? The .prt file?
> > >
> > > Jess
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Matt Henson" <hensonator@yahoo.com>
> > > To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 7:13 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Orcad --> Protel?
> > >
> > > > I know I'm a little late to the party but is there any
> > > > need for layout help on the DIY-WB?  I have access to
> > > > OrCAD and PADS and some experience with layout.
> > > >
> > > > As for cheap layout tools your best bet is the limited
> > > > version of Eagle.  Or ExpressPCB but that tool is
> > > > pretty limited and it doesn't import netlists from
> > > > schematics.
> > > > -Matt
> > > >
> > > > --- Les Newell <les@lnewell.screaming.net> wrote:
> > > > > It seems to do a reasonable job of importing Orcad
> > > > > designs but be warned
> > > > > Protel needs a 100Ghz machine with 1G memory (or
> > > > > maybe a Cray2) to run at a
> > > > > sensible speed. Otherwise be prepared to spend quite
> > > > > a lot of time waiting
> > > > > for things to happen! Protel also has a tendency to
> > > > > crash on a fairly
> > > > > regular basis.
> > > > >
> > > > > Les
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > Anyone familiar with the 30 day trial Protel-99
> > > > > version?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Can it import Orcad stuff successfully?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Peter
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> >
> >
>
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rr wrote:
> 
> Ah, someone else asked about this also. I dropped a scan
> of a built board on incoming: DIY-WB0.jpg (sorry about
> the mixed case).

I added this to the diy-wb.zip file.

--steve

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 12:37:59 2001
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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 13:03:39 -0400
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: Barry Tisdale <btisdale@cybersol.com>
Subject: Re: Kits for WBO2
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What you'll get is the NTK sensor in the Bosch box - I don't pretend to
know how corporate funny business like this works.....

Barry

At 09:11 AM 8/15/01 -0500, you wrote:
>I don't follow the part about the sensor being a bosch... i thought we
>needed the 5-wire NTK for this?  and i thought that's what came in the
>hondas... are the two sensors compatible?  even if they are, aren't the
>NTK's faster responding sensors?
>
>>
>> This part is available from The Parts Bin (but not as I write
>> this - they are out of stock - ETA 10 days) as [a Bosch] sensor
>> for US$117:

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 13:24:45 2001
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Subject: Re: Australian NTK/NGK sensor purchase
References: <3B79B87B.1E7F9B3F@techedge.com.au> <3B7A20D5.16B03EC@techedge.com.au> <3B7A8C2D.27F23D7F@injec.com>
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M&W Ignitions use the NTK sensor in their (new) WB.

Phil Lamovie wrote:
> 
> Check with Motec they are using the same sensor for their new wideband

I understood that MoTec used the LSM11, but I guess I'll check
during business hours (I believe an LSM11 is Bosch # 0 258 104 002
(2.5 m leads), or 0 258 104 004 (0.65 m leads). Of course, equating
a Bosch part number with a "product name" is another problem too  8^(
case in point - the confusion with Bosch, Echlin, etc. rebadging the
DIY-WB NTK sensor (NGK is the NTK parent co.)
 
> display and are retailing them at about $240 or so per each.

For me, the total cost is the deciding factor - how much is that
for a MoTec - even if we're not quite comparing apples?

> The bulk order may cut some mustard with them.

Well, a $385 -> $310 price drop (all AU$'s folks) when I spoke
about getting 5 - 10, without any haggling, means there's some
fat in the margins some (most?) spare parts places work on. Note
that AU$310 is ~US$158 (@AU$0.51 to US$), so, the one-off The
Parts Bin price of US$117 is US$41 less than the local price, and
with a bit of freight thrown in on a bulk order, I figure that's
still AU$70 less than I get it here in Canberra.

Peter.
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 14:06:47 2001
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From: "Flanagan, Steve" <Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: WBO2 sensor clarification
Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 17:04:17 -0400
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Could some who has been through the ringer already with a successful
purchase of the WBO2 sensor lay out all the choices and lessons learned
(what not to buy)

I just got off the phone with www.thepartsbin.com and the tried to look up
the Bosch #13246, they could not look it up, that is the short number.

This is what I have found out:

1) thepartsbin:  has the Honda 92-95 Civic #36531-P07-003 for $122 (however,
stated it looks like a 4 wire sensor in the picture)

2) www.hparts.com:  has the Honda 92-95 Civic #36531-P07-003 for $219

3) Napa has the ECHOS791 Napa Echlin Oxygen Sensor for $139, do not know if
this is the correct sensor.

4) NAPA:  could not find the Beck Arnley BA1564015 on the web site, did not
have time to call yet

Here are some other questions:

I think the sensor needed for the project is the 5 Wire WB02 sensor, does
this mean that the 4 Wire honda sensor described above is not the correct
part? or did the picture just not show correctly?

Back in the day there was mention of other 5 Wire sensors that had special
calibration resistors built in (basically a feature some of the EFI
manufactures put in so you had to buy their special 02 sensor - at a premium
price).  Is there anything here we have to look out for?

Does anyone know temperature limits of these sensors?  Some applications
that I know of require temps in the area of 1650 - 1850 deg F.

Long Live DIY-WB02.

Steve F


-----Original Message-----
From: Barry Tisdale [mailto:btisdale@cybersol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 1:04 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Kits for WBO2


What you'll get is the NTK sensor in the Bosch box - I don't pretend to
know how corporate funny business like this works.....

Barry

At 09:11 AM 8/15/01 -0500, you wrote:
>I don't follow the part about the sensor being a bosch... i thought we
>needed the 5-wire NTK for this?  and i thought that's what came in the
>hondas... are the two sensors compatible?  even if they are, aren't the
>NTK's faster responding sensors?
>
>>
>> This part is available from The Parts Bin (but not as I write
>> this - they are out of stock - ETA 10 days) as [a Bosch] sensor
>> for US$117:

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 14:22:17 2001
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Subject: Re: WBO2 sensor clarification
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Last month I bought a NAPA OS791,
it is the right sensor.
While the guys in AU may have to chase around, for the USA guys this is what
you want, and the best price, that I know of, and I've been keeping an eye
on them for oh about 2+ years now.
Bruce


> 3) Napa has the ECHOS791 Napa Echlin Oxygen Sensor for $139, do not know
if
> this is the correct sensor.


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 15:13:41 2001
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Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 16:07:52 -0600
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: WBO2 sensor clarification
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 From thepartsbin.com you want the Vehicle: 1992 Honda Civic 1.5 VX 
3Dr O2 sensor.  It HAS to be the VX model.
I just checked and it's out of stock from them.

John

>Could some who has been through the ringer already with a successful
>purchase of the WBO2 sensor lay out all the choices and lessons learned
>(what not to buy)
>
>I just got off the phone with www.thepartsbin.com and the tried to look up
>the Bosch #13246, they could not look it up, that is the short number.
>
>This is what I have found out:
>
>1) thepartsbin:  has the Honda 92-95 Civic #36531-P07-003 for $122 (however,
>stated it looks like a 4 wire sensor in the picture)
>
>2) www.hparts.com:  has the Honda 92-95 Civic #36531-P07-003 for $219
>
>3) Napa has the ECHOS791 Napa Echlin Oxygen Sensor for $139, do not know if
>this is the correct sensor.
>
>4) NAPA:  could not find the Beck Arnley BA1564015 on the web site, did not
>have time to call yet
>
>Here are some other questions:
>
>I think the sensor needed for the project is the 5 Wire WB02 sensor, does
>this mean that the 4 Wire honda sensor described above is not the correct
>part? or did the picture just not show correctly?
>
>Back in the day there was mention of other 5 Wire sensors that had special
>calibration resistors built in (basically a feature some of the EFI
>manufactures put in so you had to buy their special 02 sensor - at a premium
>price).  Is there anything here we have to look out for?
>
>Does anyone know temperature limits of these sensors?  Some applications
>that I know of require temps in the area of 1650 - 1850 deg F.
>
>Long Live DIY-WB02.
>
>Steve F
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Barry Tisdale [mailto:btisdale@cybersol.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 1:04 PM
>To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>Subject: Re: Kits for WBO2
>
>
>What you'll get is the NTK sensor in the Bosch box - I don't pretend to
>know how corporate funny business like this works.....
>
>Barry
>
>At 09:11 AM 8/15/01 -0500, you wrote:
>>I don't follow the part about the sensor being a bosch... i thought we
>>needed the 5-wire NTK for this?  and i thought that's what came in the
>>hondas... are the two sensors compatible?  even if they are, aren't the
>>NTK's faster responding sensors?
>>
>>>
>>>  This part is available from The Parts Bin (but not as I write
>>>  this - they are out of stock - ETA 10 days) as [a Bosch] sensor
>>>  for US$117:
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 15:15:21 2001
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From: "Cosby, Melvin C. (GEL, MSX)" <Melvin.Cosby@Lighting.GE.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: WBO2 sensor clarification
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Just curious, do you remember what it cost 2 years ago?

Thanks,
Mel

> Last month I bought a NAPA OS791,
> it is the right sensor.
> While the guys in AU may have to chase around, for the USA 
> guys this is what
> you want, and the best price, that I know of, and I've been 
> keeping an eye
> on them for oh about 2+ years now.
> Bruce
> 
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 15:24:36 2001
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Subject: Re: WBO2 sensor clarification  
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Has everyone just gone nuts with the reply keys?.

We have 18 people asking the same questions, and now trivia pursuit.

Folks, please take a deep breath, before hitting send or reply.

And some of this doesn't need to be list traffic.   Ordering boards is thru
Peter or Bob.  In the USA get the sensors from NAPA.  It's just that simple.

We don't have to try and set daily records for Bandwidth.

Some day someone, might want to edit the archives, and stuff like this is
just going to make the job all the more time consuming.

NO replies needed,
Thanks
Bruce

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 15:46:52 2001
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Flanagan, Steve wrote:

> Could some who has been through the ringer already with a successful
> purchase of the WBO2 sensor lay out all the choices and lessons learned
> (what not to buy)
>
> I just got off the phone with www.thepartsbin.com and the tried to look up
> the Bosch #13246, they could not look it up, that is the short number.
>
> This is what I have found out:
>
> 1) thepartsbin:  has the Honda 92-95 Civic #36531-P07-003 for $122 (however,
> stated it looks like a 4 wire sensor in the picture)
>
> 2) www.hparts.com:  has the Honda 92-95 Civic #36531-P07-003 for $219
>

Ding-ding -->>

>
> 3) Napa has the ECHOS791 Napa Echlin Oxygen Sensor for $139, do not know if
> this is the correct sensor.

That's the one. Five wires: Org, Yel, Wht, Red, Blk.

BobR.

>
>
> 4) NAPA:  could not find the Beck Arnley BA1564015 on the web site, did not
> have time to call yet
>
> Here are some other questions:
>
> I think the sensor needed for the project is the 5 Wire WB02 sensor, does
> this mean that the 4 Wire honda sensor described above is not the correct
> part? or did the picture just not show correctly?
>
> Back in the day there was mention of other 5 Wire sensors that had special
> calibration resistors built in (basically a feature some of the EFI
> manufactures put in so you had to buy their special 02 sensor - at a premium
> price).  Is there anything here we have to look out for?
>
> Does anyone know temperature limits of these sensors?  Some applications
> that I know of require temps in the area of 1650 - 1850 deg F.
>
> Long Live DIY-WB02.
>
> Steve F
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Barry Tisdale [mailto:btisdale@cybersol.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 1:04 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: Kits for WBO2
>
> What you'll get is the NTK sensor in the Bosch box - I don't pretend to
> know how corporate funny business like this works.....
>
> Barry
>
> At 09:11 AM 8/15/01 -0500, you wrote:
> >I don't follow the part about the sensor being a bosch... i thought we
> >needed the 5-wire NTK for this?  and i thought that's what came in the
> >hondas... are the two sensors compatible?  even if they are, aren't the
> >NTK's faster responding sensors?
> >
> >>
> >> This part is available from The Parts Bin (but not as I write
> >> this - they are out of stock - ETA 10 days) as [a Bosch] sensor
> >> for US$117:
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 15:55:22 2001
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Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 08:57:58 +1000
From: Peter Gargano <peter@techedge.com.au>
Organization: Tech Edge Pty. Ltd. - ABN 40 057 140 137
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Subject: Narrow band sensor info on /incoming
References: <3.0.1.32.20010815075137.006b76e4@smtp.cybersol.com>
	 <001e01c12569$5cb9d180$8aa138cb@mtomlins>
	 <3B79B87B.1E7F9B3F@techedge.com.au>
	 <3B7A20D5.16B03EC@techedge.com.au>
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I put some information into /incoming from a Nov. 1995
Silicon Chip ( http://www.siliconchip.com.au/ ) article
by Julian Edgar that describes how a narrow band oxygen
sensor works:

  ftp://ftp.diy-efi.org/incoming/nb_sensor.gif

Julian Edgar is the editor of Auto Speed, an online
magazine (by subscription) that covers Australian as
well as imported cars.

  http://www.autospeed.com/

Julian was the former edit of Zoom magazine (paper).

Peter.
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 17:17:19 2001
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From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: EFI POWWOW Dates
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EFI POWWOW III,
will be 10/22 and 23
Arcanum, OH 45304

Starts 9am, and ends at 10pm both days.
Good Food in walking distance.
Hotels in Dayton, about a 45 min drive away.

Your on your own for food, and lodging.  Refrig space for beverages, non
alcoholic.  No Smoking.   No Kids.   It's a guy thing <g>..   I'm immune
system supressed, so if your sick I have to know!!.   No burnouts in town.
My neighbors are my friends.  If your allergic to cats, mine will be in the
back room, but he normally rules the house....

All about EFI, and related stuff.  Generally some neat toys show up.  Figure
on bringing a notebook.  There can be several really good conversations
going on at once.

I always worry about not having enough stuff to look at and play with, but
discussions usually take over, other then ****some**** chip burning, at the
last one I think we had 6 laptops, running doing chips at one time.

I've got all copies of all the prom editors, and most all the aftermarket
software to look at.

Not a hackers Ball, so don't even ask for copies of programs, like GMEPro,
or Tunercat etc..

Hope to see ya here
Bruce



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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Aug 15 18:08:04 2001
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From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: EFI POWWOW Dates
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Sept,  sept,  sept, 9/22 and 23rd
NOT 10/22



----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <gmecm@diy-efi.org>; <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 8:15 PM
Subject: EFI POWWOW Dates


>
> EFI POWWOW III,
> will be 10/22 and 23
> Arcanum, OH 45304
>
> Starts 9am, and ends at 10pm both days.
> Good Food in walking distance.
> Hotels in Dayton, about a 45 min drive away.
>
> Your on your own for food, and lodging.  Refrig space for beverages, non
> alcoholic.  No Smoking.   No Kids.   It's a guy thing <g>..   I'm immune
> system supressed, so if your sick I have to know!!.   No burnouts in town.
> My neighbors are my friends.  If your allergic to cats, mine will be in
the
> back room, but he normally rules the house....
>
> All about EFI, and related stuff.  Generally some neat toys show up.
Figure
> on bringing a notebook.  There can be several really good conversations
> going on at once.
>
> I always worry about not having enough stuff to look at and play with, but
> discussions usually take over, other then ****some**** chip burning, at
the
> last one I think we had 6 laptops, running doing chips at one time.
>
> I've got all copies of all the prom editors, and most all the aftermarket
> software to look at.
>
> Not a hackers Ball, so don't even ask for copies of programs, like GMEPro,
> or Tunercat etc..
>
> Hope to see ya here
> Bruce
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug 16 06:41:16 2001
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Subject: Test of DIY-WB
To: gmecm@diy-efi.org, diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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Had a chance to do some testing yesterday. Swapped out
the perf-board prototype for the PCB version of the WB.
Left the same sensor in the exhaust. Looking over the
data logs it looks like the data between the two is the
same (perf vs pcb).

This is good. It looks like I didn't miss any traces! <g>.
Once some more are built I am hoping that they can be
compared to some commercial units or cal gas. If anyone
can do this it would be a good thing.

Bruce Roe is working on a couple of add-ons for the
DIY-WB. One being an LED bar-graph display. This will
be nice for those that aren't data logging. Also some
stuff to convert the WB signal into something usable
for the NB ECM input.

We'll release schematics of these and with enough interest
may be making PCBs. As these won't require a lot of wiring
it will be easy to manually wire also.

BobR.
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug 16 07:53:11 2001
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From: "JANETSKY, ALBERT (AIT)" <aj5242@sbc.com>
To: gmecm@diy-efi.org, diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: V6 Vortec to V8 Vortec Conversion
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 09:51:10 -0500
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Hello All...

My name is Al Janetsky.  I'm a Systems Engineer with a telecommunications
organization... and for fun I'm converting a 1996 GMC Sonoma sportside
equiped with the 4.3L Central Sequential Fuel Injected Vortec to a 5.7L V8
Vortec. I'm hoping to keep the truck streetable with occasional runs on
Saturday nights at the local drag strip (for fun). 

The donor motor, wiring harness, and PCM is out of a 1998 3/4 ton GMC
Sierra.

I currently have the engine at Kendricks of San Antonio for my machine work.

Modifications include porting and resurfacing the Vortech heads.  An LT4 Hot
cam package... 1.6 roller rockers, and upgraded valve springs.  The specs on
the cam are 218/228 at .525/.525

I plan to swap out the v6 pcm for the v8 pcm... (even though they are
identical except for the programming).  I plan to use the existing v6 wiring
harness and run a few of the pinouts from the pcm to the fuel injector
assembly. I've already traced the pinouts from the ecm to the injectors, and
think that it will be a fairly straight forward swap.

There are a couple of major concerns that I have regarding my project.
First off -  Does anyone think this cam is too large for my conversion.  The
vehicle should weigh in at about 3275 after the v8 is installed.  Gearing on
the vehicle is a 3.08 locker, and the transmission is a 5 sp New Venture
3500 that I just rebuilt.  I know that I can give up some low end torque...
and it looks like this cam will make gobs (in comparison to existing) of
power way up in the rpm range.

A computer program at the machine shop speced out about 330HP with the use
of small tube headers and somewhere near the 400 ft/lbs of torque mark.  I'm
concerned that the PCM will not be able to handle all of the duration.

Some other areas that I would like to address are the identification of the
98 OBD-II PCM and how I might be able to custom program the system to be
more compatible with the modifications... (including tach, gearing, manaul
trans, etc. etc.)

I'm willing to spend time doing the research... but so far it appears that
most of the information on the web is related to older efi systems.  I've
considered the hypertech solution... but to me, it's only a duct tape
solution being that I can't fine tune the system to my needs.

I'd really appreciate any information about the 98 pcm, communication
protocols, etc that would get me started in the proper direction.

Thankyou,

Albert Janetsky
aj5242@txmail.sbc.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug 16 16:15:26 2001
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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 09:18:15 +1000
From: Peter Gargano <peter@techedge.com.au>
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To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Batch EFI on Siamesed Port Motors
References: <Pine.LNX.4.21.0107301248410.29065-100000@bent.twistedbits.net> <003e01c11964$f1890f80$2eb60b41@hntsvlle1.al.home.com>
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I'm after thoughts on a practical problem of adding EFI to SOME
vehicles with siamesed inlet ports of a certain configuration.

A Mini has an IGN firing order of 3-4-2-1 (ie. 1-3-4-2) and inlet
ports 1-2 and 3-4 are siamesed. If a single injector is used for
ports 1-2 and another for 3-4, and a batch fire scheme is used,
then, looking at the 1-2 siamesed port, that injector will fire
during IGN events 3 and 4 and both the 1 and 2 sections of the
siamesed ports will collect fuel equally (assuming a precisely placed
injector) as neither cyl. 1 nor 2 inlet valves will be open. When inlet
valve 2 opens, I'm thinking that some of the fuel that has accumulated
for cyl 1 will be "stolen" by 2, and that cyl 1 will therefore not get
as much accumulated fuel as 2. So, I'd expect cyl 1 and 4 will run lean
compared with 2 and 3.

I don't know how "bad" this effect is yet, but I know some have run a
Mini with a GM two injector batch fire setup (1227165/808). Hopefully I
can get some figures, with the DIY-WB hardware, that I can share.

One partial way around this problem is to run a two bank (or a
two cylinder SEFI) system, but I suspect that cylinders 1, 4 and 2, 4
actually have different volumetric efficiencies (VE) so that fueling
will still be different between cylinders. Of course, this same
problem exists for a carby setup too.

Any practical thoughts for a solution while keeping the existing
siamesed head? I had thought of having two VE tables - anyone seen
this in practice? I'm sure it won't account for all running conditions
though.

Peter.
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug 16 16:34:44 2001
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Subject: Re: Batch EFI on Siamesed Port Motors
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 19:34:10 -0400
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Shared port heads are just headaches, IMO.  Do what just seems best and get
on with it.  I know SEFI, sounds so cool, but the basic mechanical
configuration is so poor that you'll never really make up for it.
  Also depends if the manifold is a downer, or sider (<G>).
If your blowing the fuel onto the manifold floor, you deep in the woods
anyway.  Try for best atomization at low speed (TBI), and go from there.  If
a sider and high rpm then the port config would sound best.
Plenum volume, injector placement, on something like that is going to be
just compromises.  Figure out where you want it to run, and take you hits in
the off areas.  Trying to compromise too much leaves you with nothing that
is right.

As I recall, weren't some using just a single 26mm choked single barrel of a
45 DCOE?.
What size injectors can you even find for something that small (hmm,
975cc's?)?.
A single TBI might not be a bad option.
Bruce
  YMWV





----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Gargano" <peter@techedge.com.au>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 7:18 PM
Subject: Batch EFI on Siamesed Port Motors


> I'm after thoughts on a practical problem of adding EFI to SOME
> vehicles with siamesed inlet ports of a certain configuration.
>
> A Mini has an IGN firing order of 3-4-2-1 (ie. 1-3-4-2) and inlet
> ports 1-2 and 3-4 are siamesed. If a single injector is used for
> ports 1-2 and another for 3-4, and a batch fire scheme is used,
> then, looking at the 1-2 siamesed port, that injector will fire
> during IGN events 3 and 4 and both the 1 and 2 sections of the
> siamesed ports will collect fuel equally (assuming a precisely placed
> injector) as neither cyl. 1 nor 2 inlet valves will be open. When inlet
> valve 2 opens, I'm thinking that some of the fuel that has accumulated
> for cyl 1 will be "stolen" by 2, and that cyl 1 will therefore not get
> as much accumulated fuel as 2. So, I'd expect cyl 1 and 4 will run lean
> compared with 2 and 3.
>
> I don't know how "bad" this effect is yet, but I know some have run a
> Mini with a GM two injector batch fire setup (1227165/808). Hopefully I
> can get some figures, with the DIY-WB hardware, that I can share.
>
> One partial way around this problem is to run a two bank (or a
> two cylinder SEFI) system, but I suspect that cylinders 1, 4 and 2, 4
> actually have different volumetric efficiencies (VE) so that fueling
> will still be different between cylinders. Of course, this same
> problem exists for a carby setup too.
>
> Any practical thoughts for a solution while keeping the existing
> siamesed head? I had thought of having two VE tables - anyone seen
> this in practice? I'm sure it won't account for all running conditions
> though.
>
> Peter.
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug 16 16:36:56 2001
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[info forwarded from the gmecm list]

Yes it should be paralleling R4. Only needs to be a 1/2W resistor. The
value of this resistor will vary depending upon the real value of R4 and

the desired warm-up time. The resistor R4 is the current sense resistor
for maximum heater current.

I tend to use easy to obtain parts and fudge from there. I've used a 10%

tolerance resistor for R4 and then find it may need trimming. On the
perf
boarded unit I ended up with a 6.8 ohm across R4. For the PCB unit I
just built I ended up using a 10 ohm resistor across R4. Both times I
used
a 10% 1 ohm main resistor (0.9 to 1.1 ohm)

There is still some dispute as to what the absolute maximum current
should be. On the low side of ~1.3A it has been found that the heater
takes over 2 1/2 minutes to warm up. At that current it sometimes won't
reach the 10.5 V limit required to enable the UEGO controller. In other
words the sensor never reaches full temperature.

Empirical evidence shows that warm up times of 30 to 45 seconds is
common for WB units. In order to obtain this warm up time a higher
heater current is required. Hence the trimmed current sense resistor. I
try to shoot for a current of a little over 1.4A or ~40 seconds warm-up
time from a cold sensor.

BobR.



Flanagan, Steve wrote:

> I am confused why this will not affect the pre made board group. On
that
> board, don't you
> have to still parallel the resistors?
>
> I do not see on the parts list the 6.8 Ohm resistor.  Should we assume
that
> it is also a 5W resistor?
>
> Steve F
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brian L Massey [mailto:blocklm@juno.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 1:54 PM
> To: gmecm@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: Test of DIY-WB
>
> On Thu, 16 Aug 2001 09:40:45 -0400 "rr" <rrauscher@nni.com> writes:
> >
> > Had a chance to do some testing yesterday. Swapped out
> > the perf-board prototype for the PCB version of the WB.
> <.......>
> > This is good. It looks like I didn't miss any traces! <g>.
>
> This won't affect people who use the pre-made pc board, but since I'm
> building to my own form-factor on perf, there seems to be a slight
errata
> needed on the diagram for the heater control.
>
> Bob, in your "Note:" on the right of the heater control drawing, it
says
> "parallel R1 w/6.8 ohm ...". Shouldn't that be *R4*? Just a nit
really.
> Tnx.
>
> Brian
>
> ________________________________________________________________




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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug 16 17:10:25 2001
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Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 17:43:21 -0600
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org, <peter@techedge.com.au>
From: marcel chichak <chichm@telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: Batch EFI on Siamesed Port Motors
In-Reply-To: <3B7C54B7.812A7E87@techedge.com.au>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.21.0107301248410.29065-100000@bent.twistedbits.net>
 <003e01c11964$f1890f80$2eb60b41@hntsvlle1.al.home.com>
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At 09:18 AM 17/08/2001 +1000, Peter Gargano wrote:


>I'm after thoughts on a practical problem of adding EFI to SOME
>vehicles with siamesed inlet ports of a certain configuration.
>
>A Mini has an IGN firing order of 3-4-2-1 (ie. 1-3-4-2) and inlet
>ports 1-2 and 3-4 are siamesed. ...

Peter, I'm running square on into this problem as we spEak. I've got the 
inlet manifold built and a DTA 'puter ready to go but I've been side 
tracked preparing the MK II Cortina for next year's rally season. How DTA 
suggest they can get around the problem is by running it as a 2 stroke, ie 
the injectors fire every crank revolution.

I'm spEaking with a bloke in UK who's running into problems with his 
injected turbo Mini and through a bunch of thinking I may have solved the 
problem. I'm writing up a tech paper about it right now and all I need is a 
few minutes in the shop to get some fine details about how much 'stealing' 
the inside cylinders do. I *think* it can be made to work but essentially 
all the fuel has to go into the outside cylinders while the valve is open. 
Anything intended for that cylinder that is deposited in the port is eaten 
up by the inside cylinder. The inside cylinder charge is deposited partly 
in the port and partly down the valve as it opens.

I've prepared illustrative valve timing diagrams and 3-D maps with a time 
domain ceiling under which the fuel map has to live. I might have all that 
together and up on my web page (below) by early next week. I'll also be 
sending it to DTA for their take on it.

One of the key things I need is the size of injector used by the TPI Mini. 
No one has been able to come up with either a part number or a flow rate. 
I'll keep after it.

Contact me off the list so we can chat about where you are with your 
project and maybe we can help each other?




--Marcel Chichak    chichm@telusplanet.net
	Edmonton Alberta Canada, eh?
  Peek into my world: www.planet.eon.net/~chichm

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Aug 16 17:42:17 2001
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To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org, <peter@techedge.com.au>
From: marcel chichak <chichm@telusplanet.net>
Subject: Re: Batch EFI on Siamesed Port Motors
In-Reply-To: <3B7C54B7.812A7E87@techedge.com.au>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.21.0107301248410.29065-100000@bent.twistedbits.net>
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At 09:18 AM 17/08/2001 +1000, Peter Gargano wrote:


>I'm after thoughts on a practical problem of adding EFI to SOME
>vehicles with siamesed inlet ports of a certain configuration.
>
>A Mini has an IGN firing order of 3-4-2-1 (ie. 1-3-4-2) and inlet
>ports 1-2 and 3-4 are siamesed. ...

Peter, I'm running square on into this problem as we spEak. I've got the 
inlet manifold built and a DTA 'puter ready to go but I've been side 
tracked preparing the MK II Cortina for next year's rally season. How DTA 
suggest they can get around the problem is by running it as a 2 stroke, ie 
the injectors fire every crank revolution.

I'm spEaking with a bloke in UK who's running into problems with his 
injected turbo Mini and through a bunch of thinking I may have solved the 
problem. I'm writing up a tech paper about it right now and all I need is a 
few minutes in the shop to get some fine details about how much 'stealing' 
the inside cylinders do. I *think* it can be made to work but essentially 
all the fuel has to go into the outside cylinders while the valve is open. 
Anything intended for that cylinder that is deposited in the port is eaten 
up by the inside cylinder. The inside cylinder charge is deposited partly 
in the port and partly down the valve as it opens.

I've prepared illustrative valve timing diagrams and 3-D maps with a time 
domain ceiling under which the fuel map has to live. I might have all that 
together and up on my web page (below) by early next week. I'll also be 
sending it to DTA for their take on it.

One of the key things I need is the size of injector used by the TPI Mini. 
No one has been able to come up with either a part number or a flow rate. 
I'll keep after it.

Contact me off the list so we can chat about where you are with your 
project and maybe we can help each other?




--Marcel Chichak    chichm@telusplanet.net
	Edmonton Alberta Canada, eh?
  Peek into my world: www.planet.eon.net/~chichm

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug 17 08:36:05 2001
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From: "Jeff Bromberger" <blownz@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <3B7C5942.D85D3B0C@nni.com>
Subject: where to get "weatherpack" connectors?
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 10:35:44 -0500
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looking for a good reasonable source for these, i'm going to be doing a lot
of wiring on the car and i'd rather have everything able to be unplugged vs.
all being soldered...

thanks,
jeff

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug 17 09:27:57 2001
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Subject: Re: where to get "weatherpack" connectors?
References: <3B7C5942.D85D3B0C@nni.com> <009401c12732$47f26300$0500a8c0@intranet.inductionindustries.com>
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Try the GMECM FAQ:

http://diy-efi.org/gmecm/faq/gm_connectors.html

--steve

Jeff Bromberger wrote:
> 
> looking for a good reasonable source for these, i'm going to be doing a lot
> of wiring on the car and i'd rather have everything able to be unplugged vs.
> all being soldered...
> 
> thanks,
> jeff
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
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-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug 17 11:28:48 2001
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Subject: Re: where to get "weatherpack" connectors?
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 14:28:10 -0400
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jeff,

my company purchases weatherpack connectors through waytek, inc. they've 
proven to be a good vendor, and have an excellent catalog with other useful 
automotive type connectors and corrugated wire loom. i have a catalog at my 
desk, so if you need me to look up any part numbers let me know.

waytek, inc.
phone: (800) 328-2724
fax: (800) 858-0319
url: www.waytekwire.com



edm




>From: "Jeff Bromberger" <blownz@home.com>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: where to get "weatherpack" connectors?
>Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 10:35:44 -0500
>
>looking for a good reasonable source for these, i'm going to be doing a lot
>of wiring on the car and i'd rather have everything able to be unplugged 
>vs.
>all being soldered...
>
>thanks,
>jeff
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug 17 13:14:52 2001
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[Fwd:  good info from Bob V.]

I'd like to address a few questions that are arising on the 2nd batch of

DIY-WB boards.

1.  "When will they be available?"

We plan to CLOSE the requests for the 2nd batch on  Thursday,  August
23th.
 (8/24)  This will give everyone time to get requests in so no one gets
shut out.
Boards will be ordered for two week delivery, expect them to be
availible
for shipping after 9/10.

2.  "How much will they cost?"

Not known yet; the more there are the cheaper they will be!   The price
will be the same or less as the first batch ($8.72/ea). It could go
under
$5 per board if the quantity is high enough.

3.  "Are you taking online payments?"

No, not for domestic orders, right now.   For international buyers I
will
be making an exception due to the difficulties of international
payments.
 They will be contacted by me with the information once the 2nd batch is

closed.

4.  "Is there a parts kit?"

No one has come forward to offer one.   IF someone does, please contact
me
and I can set you up with the same web form being used for the 2nd batch

order.

-> Bob Valentine
-> wideband@tecmark.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug 17 13:37:56 2001
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Message-ID: <010601c1275c$70bb92a0$0500a8c0@intranet.inductionindustries.com>
From: "Jeff Bromberger" <blownz@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <F89c7wo95EFk2H3b98K0000a974@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: where to get "weatherpack" connectors?
Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 15:37:31 -0500
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Thanks for the lead! that place looks great... i just requested a catalog...

Jeff

----- Original Message -----
From: ed murder <edmurder@hotmail.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Cc: <blownz@home.com>
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 1:28 PM
Subject: Re: where to get "weatherpack" connectors?


>
> jeff,
>
> my company purchases weatherpack connectors through waytek, inc. they've
> proven to be a good vendor, and have an excellent catalog with other
useful
> automotive type connectors and corrugated wire loom. i have a catalog at
my
> desk, so if you need me to look up any part numbers let me know.
>
> waytek, inc.
> phone: (800) 328-2724
> fax: (800) 858-0319
> url: www.waytekwire.com
>
>
>
> edm
>
>
>
>
> >From: "Jeff Bromberger" <blownz@home.com>
> >Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> >To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> >Subject: where to get "weatherpack" connectors?
> >Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 10:35:44 -0500
> >
> >looking for a good reasonable source for these, i'm going to be doing a
lot
> >of wiring on the car and i'd rather have everything able to be unplugged
> >vs.
> >all being soldered...
> >
> >thanks,
> >jeff
> >
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
> >To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> >quotes)
> >in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug 17 18:20:40 2001
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The item D3 is a uni-directional diode. I also don't think that
this is mentioned:

    1. unless noted all resistors are 1/4 w.
    2. unless noted all resistors are 5% tolerance.

BobR.

Len Sabatine wrote:

>    Referring to the bill of materials I have a question regarding
>    Item 12 , D3 , 1.5KE- 33A.   Is part Bi or Unidirectional ?
>    Len
>
> >Had a chance to do some testing yesterday. Swapped out
> >the perf-board prototype for the PCB version of the WB.
> >Left the same sensor in the exhaust. Looking over the
> >data logs it looks like the data between the two is the
> >same (perf vs pcb).
> >
> >This is good. It looks like I didn't miss any traces! <g>.
> >Once some more are built I am hoping that they can be
> >compared to some commercial units or cal gas. If anyone
> >can do this it would be a good thing.
> >
> >Bruce Roe is working on a couple of add-ons for the
> >DIY-WB. One being an LED bar-graph display. This will
> >be nice for those that aren't data logging. Also some
> >stuff to convert the WB signal into something usable
> >for the NB ECM input.
> >
> >We'll release schematics of these and with enough interest
> >may be making PCBs. As these won't require a lot of wiring
> >it will be easy to manually wire also.
> >
> >BobR.
> >----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Fri Aug 17 20:05:51 2001
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From: Carter Shore <clshore@yahoo.com>
Subject: Batch EFI on Siamesed Port Motors
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Peter,
I face the same problem with my Mk II Spitfire., which
also has siamesed intake ports.
I think I know how to make it work at speed, but idle
and cruise is still a problem. 
Consider just a pair of siamesed cyclinders.
Assume for a moment that the aiflow is equal into both
cylinders (probably not true!). The problem is to time
the injection events to avoid intake overlap. If we
are running at 7200 RPM, then there are 60 full cycles
per second, around 17 mSec. Each intake event lasts
roughly 180 degrees, around 8.5 mSec. The intake
events of the siamesed cylinders are adjacent. So we
have around 8.5 mSec for the first cylinder, then 8.5
mSec for the next, then 17 mSec until the whole thing
repeats. If we size the injectors such that the max
amount of fuel needed can be injected during a 6 mSec
interval, then we should be able to time the injection
pulses to achive fairly equal fuel distribution to
each cylinder.
Remember that in a SEFI, we inject 1 shot of fuel for
each cylinder of air. So the mass of air sucked in
determines how much fuel should be injected each time.
And the mass of air is proportional to the Volumetric
Efficiency under that set of conditions (temperature,
RPM, air density, throttle position, etc.). We can
pretty easily choose injectors that will supply enough
fuel for each cylinder in 6 mSec at WOT and high RPM
It's a 1300 CC motor after all! Let's say we need a
max total of 50 lb/hr of fuel. On a normal SEFI that
would require 4 x 13 lb injectors. For our oddball
setup with 2 injectors, each must flow 26 lb/hr. And
we will pulse a maximum 6+6 = 12 mSec out of 17, so we
would need:
 26 x 17/12 = 37 lb/hr units.
Our problem is getting the darn thing to idle, when VE
is very low, or to run decently at part throttle
cruise. We need a dynamic range of at least 25:1. Most
injectors start to operate poorly somewhere under 1
mSec or so, so we have only around 8:1 range.
My solution? 
Two sets of different sized injectors. Each intake
tract has a high volume and a low volume injector,
both mounted along the center line, perhaps in tandem.
The injector capacities are chosen to overlap. As long
as the injectors are of the proper type (saturated vs
p/h), the ECU driver hardware should need no
modifications. 
The software however, would require some major
hacking. First off is to arrange for the oddball
injector timing. Next is to handle the transition
region between high volume and low volume injector
operation.
But the rest of the code should require few changes.
Fuel and spark tables are used the same, and load
calculations are made the same way, since the same
sensors would be used.

Comments, suggestions?

Carter Shore




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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 18 04:54:40 2001
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 Does anyone have thi binary prom file for an 89 4.3 v6 , 3.42 rear, automatic with
TBI?
TIA

mike

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 18 04:54:33 2001
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 Does anyone have thi binary prom file for an 89 4.3 v6 , 3.42 rear, automatic with
TBI?
TIA

mike

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 18 06:19:15 2001
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There is a scan of the NTK O2 sensor that is used for the
DIY-WB project on incoming:

    WB-SENSOR.JPG

This should help out in identifying the proper sensor.

BobR.


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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 18 06:54:01 2001
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From: Matt Cramer <mac9@po.cwru.edu>
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	I recently bought an '86 Mercury Capri with a 3.8 V6 with the intent of
swapping a V8 into it.  However, I just had an idea for another project
using some parts off it once I get the V8 in there.  Since my Dodge Dart
has a 3.7 liter straight six and the Capri has a working TBI setup on
there, perhaps I could put the fuel injection unit from the Capri on my
Dart.  There are some obvious things I need to take care of, like
installing the sensors and making an adapter for the intake manifold, but
there are a few things I'm not sure what to do about.  The most important
that I can think of is fuel pressure.  Does anyone know what fuel pressure
this device is supposed to run at?  I've heard that GM TBI's use less fuel
pressure than most multi-port EFI setups, but is this true of Ford units
too?  Or does it expect around 43 psi of fuel pressure?

Matt Cramer
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 18 14:10:15 2001
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Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 07:12:59 +1000
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Subject: Re: Batch EFI on Siamesed Port Motors
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Carter Shore wrote:
> 
> If we size the injectors such that the max
> amount of fuel needed can be injected during a 6 mSec
> interval, then we should be able to time the injection
> pulses to achive fairly equal fuel distribution to
> each cylinder.

Agreed, but here's a couple of problems (and I don't presume
to know how much of an effect each contributes)

1. The injector, pointing down the inlet tract is looking at
two possible paths for the fuel spray it generates. Even if
you spray during just 6 mSec out of a 34 mSec cycle, you're
not guarantee to shoot all of that fuel into the cylinder with
the currently open inlet valve.

2. The aerodynamics of the inlet manifold's flow is different
for the first "opened" and second opened siamesed ports. The
air column in the single runner will be moving more quickly
relative to the first, when the second opened valve does open.

> And the mass of air is proportional to the Volumetric
> Efficiency under that set of conditions (temperature,
> RPM, air density, throttle position, etc.). ...

I believe effect 1 will rob fuel from the first cylinder, and
effect 2 will increase the VE of the second cylinder -
somewhat compensating for the fact it has stolen some fuel.
But the bottom line is that the contribution of these effects
will vary with load (and perhaps to a lesser extent, other
factors), so that an SEFI setup, to be running as sweet as it
is capable, should be able to vary the pulse duration between
the first and second cylinders.

> Our problem is getting the darn thing to idle, when VE
> is very low, or to run decently at part throttle
> cruise. We need a dynamic range of at least 25:1. Most
> injectors start to operate poorly somewhere under 1
> mSec or so, so we have only around 8:1 range.

I'm no guru, but is 25 to 1 an issue? Particularly if we're
talking closed loop operation (light load = yes). The injector
opening times may vary with environmental conditions (Temp.
mostly) but the feedback should compensate easily. Using P&H
injectors should improve reproducibility of duration times.

> My solution?
> Two sets of different sized injectors.

Don't get me wrong, but I'm thinking that bigger ain't
necessarily better in this situation.

> The software however, would require some major
> hacking. First off is to arrange for the oddball
> injector timing. Next is to handle the transition
> region between high volume and low volume injector
> operation.

If we're talking hacking, then here are two possible ways.

a. Add an external box to an existing Bank Fire setup and
provide a CAM (or CMP) signal so the box knows which of two
P&H injectors to fire, box could either interface to the
ECU's ALDL (if available) or take off a MAP/MAF signal to
determine load and hence VE for fine tuning the balance between
the first and second cylinder.

b. If the ECU is SEFI already, then it may be possible to vary
the balance between the cylinders with some code changes. One
way to think of this is that VE varies between the cylinders
so there are two VE tables or perhaps better - a VE difference
table that is plotted against engine load and revs.

Peter.
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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 18 14:39:01 2001
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Subject: WB O2 Circuit Comments
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: "Timothy J Burgess" <tjburgess@west.raytheon.com>
Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 14:37:00 -0700
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Greetings and congratulations on designing an extremely useful tuning aid -
I look forward to using it!  I have a few comments regarding the design:

Change R1 to R4 in the note on page 1.

What is the value of the calR pot?

Under what conditions should the heater Imax to be reduced from 1.5 A to
1.45 A?

It may be useful to provide a second output that is scaled such that 0.1
volts = 10.8:1 and 0.9 volts = 13.07:1 (essentially by subtracting about
1.3 volts from the existing output).  This output could be applied to an
analog mux that selects the stock O2 sensor output under part throttle and
selects the WB O2 sensor output at WOT.  The output of the mux would
connect the the ECM O2 sensor input.  This would allow easy WOT A:F ratio
data capture using the A to D in the ECM in conjunction with an AutoXray or
Diacom, etc., and would also allow the ECM to continue to operate normally
at part throttle.

I created a Digikey part number BOM from the parts list on the web site.
Unless it has already been created, I thought that it might be useful to
have it posted for peer review, corrections, etc.

I'm an EE and moderate the electronics board on thirdgen.org, so I look
forward to seeing you there, as well!

Tim Burgess

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 18 16:28:50 2001
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Hi,
I am getting near installing my own design ''home brew" EFI system onto a
supercharged 4-cyl Toyota engine (4A-GZE),  which was injected to begin with
anyway.  I want to use existing hardware on the engine, meaing I want to
wire my system into the old Toyota sockets (sensors, injectors, coil packs
etc - mostly nippon denso parts I think).    Can these plugs be obtained
from any company?  Or will I have to scour wrecking yards!
Nick Parker

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat Aug 18 17:10:27 2001
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Timothy J Burgess wrote:

> Greetings and congratulations on designing an extremely useful tuning aid -
> I look forward to using it!  I have a few comments regarding the design:
>
> Change R1 to R4 in the note on page 1.

Yes.

>
> What is the value of the calR pot?

Ah, this one's easy! The resistor is included with every sensor. Note
that the connector housing has 5 wires but 7 pins. The two pins
without wires is the calibration resistor. No polarity, just wire it in.
Just don't switch CalR's between sensors. They are matched to
the sensor they came with.

>
>
> Under what conditions should the heater Imax to be reduced from 1.5 A to
> 1.45 A?

When the warm up time is too short. Might start w/o a trim resistor and
measure the warm up time. If too long then try a 10 ohm paralleled next.

>
>
> It may be useful to provide a second output that is scaled such that 0.1
> volts = 10.8:1 and 0.9 volts = 13.07:1 (essentially by subtracting about
> 1.3 volts from the existing output).  This output could be applied to an
> analog mux that selects the stock O2 sensor output under part throttle and
> selects the WB O2 sensor output at WOT.  The output of the mux would
> connect the the ECM O2 sensor input.  This would allow easy WOT A:F ratio
> data capture using the A to D in the ECM in conjunction with an AutoXray or
> Diacom, etc., and would also allow the ECM to continue to operate normally
> at part throttle.

Sounds like a mux should be added to the general output board. I'll keep
this in mind. We are working on a couple of different options at this time. The
re-scaling of the WB output to an ECM O2 input in one of them. I'm not
positive if someone has started working on this one. I'll ask and if not would
you care to? Probably put them all on the same PCB. Good input.


>
>
> I created a Digikey part number BOM from the parts list on the web site.
> Unless it has already been created, I thought that it might be useful to
> have it posted for peer review, corrections, etc.

If you'd like to throw your name at the top and email to me I'll review it. Then

ask Steve if he'd place with the DIY-WB project info page. I like keeping
Steve busy, he does a great job with the web site! (that's a thanks. . .)


>
>
> I'm an EE and moderate the electronics board on thirdgen.org, so I look
> forward to seeing you there, as well!
>
> Tim Burgess

Welcome aboard,

BobR.

>
>



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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug 19 01:43:16 2001
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On Wednesday 15 August 2001 03:00, you wrote:

Sept 1 the lady at work that builds boards our proto is laid off . could talk 
to her and she could build yours and others for price . doing it 15 yrs

Steve
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug 19 05:57:51 2001
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The spirit of this is DIY, non-profit.
meaning anywhere along the way.
Bruce

> Sept 1 the lady at work that builds boards our proto is laid off . could
talk
> to her and she could build yours and others for price . doing it 15 yrs
> Steve

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug 19 08:41:30 2001
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I take it there has been no one yet to put together these kits?

c

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug 19 15:12:25 2001
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Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 08:15:11 +1000
From: Peter Gargano <peter@techedge.com.au>
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Cut-off for this Australian group buy is in about 24 hours.
It's for the DIY-WB PCB, and also for the not-so-common NTK
sensor that is used for this project (also known as a Honda
V-Tec, Bosch, NGK, Echlin, 7 pin, 5 wire, etc. sensor. - don't
ask, check the archives !!!)

If you've made an order for an Australian board or a sensor
through me already, and you didn't get a confirmation request, then
contact me direct  mailto:wideband@techedge.com.au?subject=WB

Price for the PCB, delivered to your Australian address, should
be < AU$20. Price for a sensor should be < AU$240, with local
freight added to this, although AU$10 should get it anywhere
in Australia overnight. Asian destination freight will be extra.

We have just over a dozen local PCB orders that I have individually
asked each person who responded to the initial offer to confirm.
And we have less than 10 sensor orders, so it looks likely that
I'll still get the PCBs thru' Bob Valentine rather than locally
made as the quantities don't "add up" for a good price. I have not
had any better deal than the ~AU$240 for the correct NTK sensor
through The Parts Bin, so, assuming they actually get stock this
week, that's what I'll be ordering.

Reply to any queries you may have to me direct and I'll post
a summary here - GMECM list will be CC'd.

Peter.
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug 19 16:05:52 2001
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A good friend of mine, has again changed Air flow meters. the motor is =
the LS1(?) alloy 5.7 chev motor as fitted to Holden Commodore. Now he =
changed, ECU (whole thing not just chip) to a GTS 300kw unit, air flow =
meter and pipes  and Camshaft to a Calloway unit that is used in the GTS =
300kw cars. He had the car dyno'ed  after each change, and the thing =
that gave the greatest performance boost (according to the dyno sheets) =
was the air flow meter!=20

Now if the air flow meter just measures air flow, how is it so?=20

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4522.1800" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>A good friend of mine, has again =
changed Air flow=20
meters. the motor is the LS1(?) alloy 5.7 chev motor as fitted to Holden =

Commodore. Now he changed, ECU (whole thing not just chip) to a GTS =
300kw unit,=20
air flow meter and&nbsp;pipes&nbsp;&nbsp;and Camshaft to a Calloway unit =
that is=20
used in the GTS 300kw cars. He had the car dyno'ed&nbsp; after each =
change, and=20
the thing that gave the greatest performance boost (according to the =
dyno=20
sheets) was the air flow meter! </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Now if the air flow meter just measures =
air flow,=20
how is it so? </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug 19 16:14:37 2001
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Subject: Re: building boards
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Don't get carried away, Bruce.  As long as the folks know the deal up front
they should have the option of doing it any way they want.  That wasn't a
commercial advertisement - it was an ask for help and legitimate reply.

dh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2000 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: building boards


>
> The spirit of this is DIY, non-profit.
> meaning anywhere along the way.
> Bruce
>
> > Sept 1 the lady at work that builds boards our proto is laid off . could
> talk
> > to her and she could build yours and others for price . doing it 15 yrs
> > Steve
>
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> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug 19 16:43:44 2001
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What about the PCB manufacturer. Sure you can perf board one or you can buy
a PCB from a manufacturer who is making a profit, selling the boards to Bob
who is on selling them at no additional profit. How does offering to get
boards assembled at COST from an outside source violate the non - profit
idea of the group. We can also extend this idea to include component supply
and assembly of boards at cost. Then people will have the option of doing it
all themselves from the information provided with the non commercial, non
profit agreement or they can buy a build ready to run board under the same
agreement?

David Chambers

The spirit of this is DIY, non-profit.

meaning anywhere along the way.

Bruce

> Sept 1 the lady at work that builds boards our proto is laid off . could

talk

> to her and she could build yours and others for price . doing it 15 yrs

> Steve

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From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <000501c12908$c1723890$f287a8c0@davidpc>
Subject: Re: building boards
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 20:09:17 -0400
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Would you care to do the PCBs?.
Free.
There was no talent here on the board to draw upon for that, it was a last
resort.
How easy does this have to be?.
DIY.
DIY
DIY
T'ween that and no profit, sure seems to confuse alot of folks.
DIY-EFI, and don't want to DIY, boy now that's something.
Sure is easy to sit back and type after all the work is done.
Bruce

From: "David Chambers" <dave@racelec.com>
Subject: Re: building boards
> What about the PCB manufacturer. Sure you can perf board one or you can
buy
> a PCB from a manufacturer who is making a profit, selling the boards to
Bob
> who is on selling them at no additional profit. How does offering to get
> boards assembled at COST from an outside source violate the non - profit
> idea of the group. We can also extend this idea to include component
supply
> and assembly of boards at cost. Then people will have the option of doing
it
> all themselves from the information provided with the non commercial, non
> profit agreement or they can buy a build ready to run board under the same
> agreement?
>
> David Chambers
>
> The spirit of this is DIY, non-profit.
>
> meaning anywhere along the way.
>
> Bruce
>
> > Sept 1 the lady at work that builds boards our proto is laid off . could
>
> talk
>
> > to her and she could build yours and others for price . doing it 15 yrs
>
> > Steve


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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug 19 17:16:48 2001
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Subject: Re: building boards
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 20:16:23 -0400
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Easy for someone with no investment, to give someone else's work away, or
want to violate the terms of what has already been said.
How about spear heading a project, Mr Hunt?.   Let's see how you would feel,
in the same situation, no not in theory, actually do it and see what
happens.   Do it and get back to me, OK.
I and others haven't chased this thing around for years for some body to
make money off of our work.
Also, feel free to examine the archives, about the history of it, and why
the project HAD to go underground.  To include posters, and just might get a
better idea of what is and did go on.   It was the profit nonsense that
killed one project, we might have had this 2 years ago, if it weren't for
the few that just had to make a buck off of others.

Ya, due to the sorry nature of folks, there probably will be some snail
faced dweeb, try and make a buck off of it, but I'll sure as hell raise
noise about it, especially if it happens on this or the GMECM list.

For the price of the boards, and parts, even if you or someone else screws
one up it not like you losing a hundred bucks on it (because folks are
making a profit on it).  Also, kinda of a mandatory learning process for
some.   Or a forced bartering system.

Discussing it any further would just be a further waste of bandwidth, if you
really need something to do with your time, how about think up a project,
and do something constructive.

Call me anything you want, it doesn't change anything.  Black and white is
just fine when it comes to keeping your word.  I sure get tired of folks
offering to give some one else's work away, or make a buck on it.
Bruce

From: "David Hunt" <bamainc@home.com>
Subject: Re: building boards
> Don't get carried away, Bruce.  As long as the folks know the deal up
front
> they should have the option of doing it any way they want.  That wasn't a
> commercial advertisement - it was an ask for help and legitimate reply.
>
> dh


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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug 19 17:28:54 2001
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Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 20:28:41 -0400
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From: Matt Cramer <mac9@po.cwru.edu>
Subject: Re: Air flow meter
Cc: warwick@musclecarshootout.com
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At 07:38 PM 8/19/2001 +1000, you wrote:
>        after each change, and  the thing that gave the greatest
>performance boost (according to the dyno  sheets) was the air flow meter!  
> Now if the air flow meter just measures air flow,  how is it so?  

	(Finally, a question I can answer!) LS1 sounds right - that's a new
aluminum Chevy V8 used in the Commodore, Camaro, and Corvette.  Anyway, the
air flow meter on many cars can be something of a restriction to incoming
air.  Changing it to a less restrictive type can improve volumetric
efficiency, which is good for more power.  This has become a fairly popular
mod on Chevy engines and some 5.0 Mustangs.

Matt Cramer
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug 19 17:43:30 2001
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If it under or over reports the air flow, that will change the fueling.
On some applications, even the orientation of it will effect the reported
Airflow.  By pipes do you mean intake tract?.  They just might get along
just right with a certain sensor.  There is alot of turbulence in the intake
tract, with reversion, and puslations, makes figuring out what exactlly
going on hard to figure
Bruce



From: Warwick Anderson
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2001 5:38 AM
A good friend of mine, has again changed Air flow meters. the motor is the
LS1(?) alloy 5.7 chev motor as fitted to Holden Commodore. Now he changed,
ECU (whole thing not just chip) to a GTS 300kw unit, air flow meter and
pipes  and Camshaft to a Calloway unit that is used in the GTS 300kw cars.
He had the car dyno'ed  after each change, and the thing that gave the
greatest performance boost (according to the dyno sheets) was the air flow
meter!
Now if the air flow meter just measures air flow, how is it so?

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug 19 18:02:04 2001
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Popular, and in some cases, a waste of money.  There are more then just a
couple guys hot over having spent some big money on the aftermarkets and
slowed down.
  In theory a reduction in intake tract restriction should show an
improvement, but you have to be careful of other considerations.  ie, does
it effect reproted airflow, and hence mixture, and timing.  Is it just
correcting a wrong, or actually doing something good.
  I've tried them (late MAFs), with and without screens, and airfoils, and
the 3.5 in a 3.0 housing.  As far as performance goes, in my application the
3.5 in a 3.0 with the screens, and the airfoil, and supports removed were
the hot set up.  That setup also was the best  in drivibility.
Bruce


> (Finally, a question I can answer!) LS1 sounds right - that's a new
> aluminum Chevy V8 used in the Commodore, Camaro, and Corvette.  Anyway,
the
> air flow meter on many cars can be something of a restriction to incoming
> air.  Changing it to a less restrictive type can improve volumetric
> efficiency, which is good for more power.  This has become a fairly
popular
> mod on Chevy engines and some 5.0 Mustangs.
> Matt Cramer


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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Aug 19 18:13:34 2001
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From: Chris Waltham <chris@harvestroad.com>
Subject: Re: Air flow meter
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At 08:28 20/08/2001, you wrote:
>At 07:38 PM 8/19/2001 +1000, you wrote:
> >        after each change, and  the thing that gave the greatest
> >performance boost (according to the dyno  sheets) was the air flow meter!
> > Now if the air flow meter just measures air flow,  how is it so?
>
>         (Finally, a question I can answer!) LS1 sounds right - that's a new
>aluminum Chevy V8 used in the Commodore, Camaro, and Corvette.  Anyway, the
>air flow meter on many cars can be something of a restriction to incoming
>air.  Changing it to a less restrictive type can improve volumetric
>efficiency, which is good for more power.  This has become a fairly popular
>mod on Chevy engines and some 5.0 Mustangs.

Don't the Corvette's use something like the LS3 or the LT3? I thought they
had a touch less power output (270-odd or 280-odd kW), but were a lot better,
shall we say, "engineered"?


Chris

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 20 05:15:19 2001
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I think you will find our Australian  300kw GTS had the C4B motor which is
speed density so if you got the GTS PCM to work in the 220kw motor and
installed the GTS cam and head package you should not use the airflow meter
.
The airflow meter is only used on the 220kw and 250kw versions.

How did you get the GTS pcm to work ? HSV are unwilling to sell a PCM with
the GTS program in it and even when we got one  , no dealer would update the
BCM to suit SO IT WAS USELESS.

The Aussie LS1 has been programmed too rich by Holden at WOT so people have
been finding good performance gains by "porting the maf" and recalibrated
mafs to lean off the WOT fuelling - the gain is directly proportional to
what version of software your PCM runs as I have seen guys that had gains ,
loose power when they sent there car in for a service and a new version of
software was installed (to fix other issues) .

The best gain I have got so far for the dollars is to fit the supercharger !

Daniel Collins

> > >        after each change, and  the thing that gave the greatest
> > >performance boost (according to the dyno  sheets) was the air flow
meter!
> > > Now if the air flow meter just measures air flow,  how is it so?
> >
> Don't the Corvette's use something like the LS3 or the LT3? I thought they
> had a touch less power output (270-odd or 280-odd kW), but were a lot
better,
> shall we say, "engineered"?
>


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 20 05:18:54 2001
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Nick,

Back in about 1998 Toyota started to put part #'s of the connectors in the back
of the wiring diagram books to order from the dealer.  Most connectors are
common back quite a few years.  If you have access to a connector, look for a 5
digit # on it.  If it's there, add 90980 as a prefix and that will make up the
entire part #.

Scott


Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 11:33:21 +1200
From: "Nicholas Parker" <nrparker@ihug.co.nz>
Subject: Toyota Automotive Connectors

Hi,
I am getting near installing my own design ''home brew" EFI system onto a
supercharged 4-cyl Toyota engine (4A-GZE),  which was injected to begin with
anyway.  I want to use existing hardware on the engine, meaing I want to
wire my system into the old Toyota sockets (sensors, injectors, coil packs
etc - mostly nippon denso parts I think).    Can these plugs be obtained
from any company?  Or will I have to scour wrecking yards!
Nick Parker


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From: "Michael Humphries Woodworking" <eric654321@hotmail.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Dissassembling BINS
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 12:12:59 -0400
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I al looking for some help on dissassembling a BIN file obtained from my =
prom.  I understand that the first half of the bin viewed in a hex =
editor is the actual software, and the rest of it are the tables.  So i =
need to split this file up somehow.  Also, if I am to learn the =
language, assembly, is this a specific assembly language for motorola =
chips?  Or is it just general assembly language, becasue I am going to =
need to get a book probably, to learn all this stuff.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C12971.74171E80
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I al looking for some help on =
dissassembling a BIN=20
file obtained from my prom.&nbsp; I understand that the first half of =
the bin=20
viewed in a hex editor is the actual software, and the rest of it are =
the=20
tables.&nbsp; So i need to split this file up somehow.&nbsp; Also, if I =
am to=20
learn the language, assembly, is this a specific assembly language for =
motorola=20
chips?&nbsp; Or is it just general assembly language, becasue I am going =
to need=20
to get a book probably, to learn all this stuff.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Any help would be greatly=20
appreciated!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 20 10:22:22 2001
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Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 10:22:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mark Agnello <m_agnello@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Toyota Connectors
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
In-Reply-To: <88256AAE.0044142F.00@external03.toyota.com>
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Scott,

I am interested in this from a different angle.  I use
a stock ECU modified by G Force Engineering but I also
want to install a breakout harness to connect a data
logger to the ECU inputs.  Do you know if it is
possible to get the both the male and female sides of
the ECU connectors?  I looked on the ECU for a part
number and came up empty.  My application is a 1988
Celica All Trac Turbo.  

Thanks,
Mark Agnello

-- Scott_Hay@toyota.com wrote:
> 
> 
> Nick,
> 
> Back in about 1998 Toyota started to put part #'s of
> the connectors in the back
> of the wiring diagram books to order from the
> dealer.  Most connectors are
> common back quite a few years.  If you have access
> to a connector, look for a 5
> digit # on it.  If it's there, add 90980 as a prefix
> and that will make up the
> entire part #.
> 
> Scott
> 


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 20 10:54:37 2001
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Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 13:56:14 -0400
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: Chris Conlon <synchris@speakeasy.org>
Subject: Re: Toyota Connectors
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At 10:22 AM 8/20/01 -0700, Mark Agnello wrote:

>I am interested in this from a different angle.  I use
>a stock ECU modified by G Force Engineering but I also
>want to install a breakout harness to connect a data
>logger to the ECU inputs.  Do you know if it is
>possible to get the both the male and female sides of
>the ECU connectors?

If anyone finds a source for these connectors, I'd like to hear about
it too. I've hacked up the wiring harnesses on 2 of my cars (4A-GZE
and 3S-GTE) to break out some signals, but it'd be so much cleaner
with the right connectors.

I did hear of a scan tool that attaches in this way, at the ECU
connectors. I can try to find out if it's a Toyota tool or
aftermarket... though I don't think in either case it'll help
us get the connectors they used.

   Chris C.

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 20 11:01:23 2001
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Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 14:00:58 -0400
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: Brian Renegar <thomas.renegar@nist.gov>
Subject: Re: WB O2 Circuit Comments
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>I created a Digikey part number BOM from the parts list on the web site.
>Unless it has already been created, I thought that it might be useful to
>have it posted for peer review, corrections, etc.

Tim, if it's available, I'd really like to see the Digikey part# list that
you've put together.  There's a lot of components to get for the WB, and
that would probably be beneficial to a lot of people here to have all of
the part#'s together.  BTW, do you know what the price tag from Digikey
looks like for all of the components?  Just wanted to get a ball park idea
of what we're looking at.

Thanks,
Brian

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 20 13:39:21 2001
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From: "Jeff Bromberger" <blownz@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <OE21N4TZyabYTHrdusl00003ac9@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dissassembling BINS
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what ECU is this coming from?  the interpretation of the bytes that you =
pulled out of the prom depends completely on what processor you have... =
there is no such thing as "general" assembly langauge... a 55h byte =
might be a "move" instruction on one processor and a "jump" on =
another... depending on what the processor is there may be utilities to =
convert the binary dump directly into the assembly instructions... then =
you'll need to data book for the processor to understand what those =
instructions are doing... assembly is not necessarily easily readable... =
each processor has its own addressing modes and register layout that =
require you to know some specifics about the architecture...


  I al looking for some help on dissassembling a BIN file obtained from =
my prom.  I understand that the first half of the bin viewed in a hex =
editor is the actual software, and the rest of it are the tables.  So i =
need to split this file up somehow.  Also, if I am to learn the =
language, assembly, is this a specific assembly language for motorola =
chips?  Or is it just general assembly language, becasue I am going to =
need to get a book probably, to learn all this stuff.

  Any help would be greatly appreciated!

------=_NextPart_000_0309_01C1298E.2A9FDFE0
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>what ECU is this coming from?&nbsp; the =

interpretation of the bytes that you pulled out of the prom depends =
completely=20
on what processor you have... there is no such thing as "general" =
assembly=20
langauge... a 55h byte might be a "move" instruction on one processor =
and a=20
"jump" on another... depending on what the processor is there may be =
utilities=20
to convert the binary dump directly into the assembly instructions... =
then=20
you'll need to data book for the processor to understand what those =
instructions=20
are doing... assembly is not necessarily easily readable... each =
processor has=20
its own addressing modes and&nbsp;register layout that require you to =
know some=20
specifics about the architecture...</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I al looking for some help on =
dissassembling a=20
  BIN file obtained from my prom.&nbsp; I understand that the first half =
of the=20
  bin viewed in a hex editor is the actual software, and the rest of it =
are the=20
  tables.&nbsp; So i need to split this file up somehow.&nbsp; Also, if =
I am to=20
  learn the language, assembly, is this a specific assembly language for =

  motorola chips?&nbsp; Or is it just general assembly language, becasue =
I am=20
  going to need to get a book probably, to learn all this =
stuff.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Any help would be greatly=20
  appreciated!</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 20 13:57:13 2001
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Message-ID: <3B817A56.FCC8C7E1@techedge.com.au>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 07:00:06 +1000
From: Peter Gargano <peter@techedge.com.au>
Organization: Tech Edge Pty. Ltd. - ABN 40 057 140 137
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Subject: Re: Dissassembling BINS
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Mike, don't post here in HTML ..

> Michael Humphries Woodworking wrote:
> 
> I al looking for some help on dissassembling a BIN file obtained from my prom.  I
> understand that the first half of the bin viewed in a hex editor is the actual software,
> and the rest of it are the tables.

First part is usually the tables for a GM BIN. You can work
out where the code is by looking at the interrupt vectors
at the end of the BIN for for most (all?) Mot. chip.

>  So i need to split this file up somehow.  Also, if I
> am to learn the language, assembly, is this a specific assembly language for motorola
> chips?  Or is it just general assembly language, becasue I am going to need to get a
> book probably, to learn all this stuff.

My disassembler is available from http://www.techedge.com.au/utils/default.htm
 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated!

If you don't know assembler, there's a steep learning curve unless
you're a programmer (and then some..). There is some info on the 68HC11
from Motorola - look for a User Manual PDF file - It'll have all the
HC11's instructions, and how the chip works. There may also be some books
on the HC11 too.

Peter.
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 20 14:15:40 2001
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Message-ID: <04bb01c129bd$42d38240$2eb60b41@hntsvlle1.al.home.com>
From: "David Hunt" <bamainc@home.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <200108150800.BAA08933@hektor.valesh.com> <01081505575503.21580@localhost.localdomain> <006501c009dd$0b7df380$7f0ac9d8@bruce> <005701c12904$c1a35780$2eb60b41@hntsvlle1.al.home.com> <001f01c00a3b$e02a7140$23258fd1@bruce>
Subject: Re: building boards
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 16:15:37 -0500
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I guess you missed it but there is wb artwork on the board

with artwork
with Digikey part numbers
with everything

I did it and I DON'T care how it's used, or not used as the case seems to
be.  I have PREVIOUSLY done that no charge, hell I don't even want a board!

I did it before you ask and I'm back to you.

What was offered that, if desired, someone could do some soldering.  I don't
know that soldering components to a board is actually profiting on the
project.  I don't want to get paid for soldering.  I doubt that you do
either.

I don't care if anyone else makes a buck off of it.  If they can more power
to them because, as I posted before, they will probably provide support, and
continuity to the project.

I call this type of conversation BS.

dh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2000 7:16 PM
Subject: Re: building boards


>
>
> Easy for someone with no investment, to give someone else's work away, or
> want to violate the terms of what has already been said.
> How about spear heading a project, Mr Hunt?.   Let's see how you would
feel,
> in the same situation, no not in theory, actually do it and see what
> happens.   Do it and get back to me, OK.
> I and others haven't chased this thing around for years for some body to
> make money off of our work.
> Also, feel free to examine the archives, about the history of it, and why
> the project HAD to go underground.  To include posters, and just might get
a
> better idea of what is and did go on.   It was the profit nonsense that
> killed one project, we might have had this 2 years ago, if it weren't for
> the few that just had to make a buck off of others.
>
> Ya, due to the sorry nature of folks, there probably will be some snail
> faced dweeb, try and make a buck off of it, but I'll sure as hell raise
> noise about it, especially if it happens on this or the GMECM list.
>
> For the price of the boards, and parts, even if you or someone else screws
> one up it not like you losing a hundred bucks on it (because folks are
> making a profit on it).  Also, kinda of a mandatory learning process for
> some.   Or a forced bartering system.
>
> Discussing it any further would just be a further waste of bandwidth, if
you
> really need something to do with your time, how about think up a project,
> and do something constructive.
>
> Call me anything you want, it doesn't change anything.  Black and white is
> just fine when it comes to keeping your word.  I sure get tired of folks
> offering to give some one else's work away, or make a buck on it.
> Bruce
>
> From: "David Hunt" <bamainc@home.com>
> Subject: Re: building boards
> > Don't get carried away, Bruce.  As long as the folks know the deal up
> front
> > they should have the option of doing it any way they want.  That wasn't
a
> > commercial advertisement - it was an ask for help and legitimate reply.
> >
> > dh
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 20 15:03:14 2001
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From: "Warwick Anderson" <warwick@musclecarshootout.com>
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References: <000801c12904$d3943cc0$b3508a90@default> <5.1.0.14.2.20010820091330.01be09d0@spinach.harvestroad.com> <005a01c12971$e3ab9280$351b32d2@ajasonm>
Subject: Re: Air flow meter
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 08:12:32 +1000
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I never did any of the work. I just took it for a drive when it was
finished. the owner claims 310KW, but I wasn't that impressed with it (no
matter how you dress it up, a commodore is still a four door family car!)
the owner asked me what I thought gave the smallest power, out of the cam,
puter, or airflow meter. I said air flow meter, and he said the CAM was the
smallest change, and that the airflow meter gave the biggest change. It cost
$5500 all up. It may well have the GTS speed density thingy, as the owner
wouldn't really know what it was. The work was done by a company in Brisbane
who have a fairly good name and run a V8 supercar team. the Dyno work was
done by a different company to.

If you need Holden programs and gear, you need a good friend at a Holden
dealer. I used to work for Holden as a supervisor, and if you wanted
anything like that done while I was on I would be more than happy to do it
for you. Its a bit harder now, because thay have clamped down on HSV stuff.
But make friends with your local HSV spanner spinner, the guy on the floor
who does the work, can get you what you need.




----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel" <bossute@iprimus.com.au>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2001 10:16 PM
Subject: Re: Air flow meter


> I think you will find our Australian  300kw GTS had the C4B motor which is
> speed density so if you got the GTS PCM to work in the 220kw motor and
> installed the GTS cam and head package you should not use the airflow
meter
> .
> The airflow meter is only used on the 220kw and 250kw versions.
>
> How did you get the GTS pcm to work ? HSV are unwilling to sell a PCM with
> the GTS program in it and even when we got one  , no dealer would update
the
> BCM to suit SO IT WAS USELESS.
>
> The Aussie LS1 has been programmed too rich by Holden at WOT so people
have
> been finding good performance gains by "porting the maf" and recalibrated
> mafs to lean off the WOT fuelling - the gain is directly proportional to
> what version of software your PCM runs as I have seen guys that had gains
,
> loose power when they sent there car in for a service and a new version of
> software was installed (to fix other issues) .
>
> The best gain I have got so far for the dollars is to fit the supercharger
!
>
> Daniel Collins
>
> > > >        after each change, and  the thing that gave the greatest
> > > >performance boost (according to the dyno  sheets) was the air flow
> meter!
> > > > Now if the air flow meter just measures air flow,  how is it so?
> > >
> > Don't the Corvette's use something like the LS3 or the LT3? I thought
they
> > had a touch less power output (270-odd or 280-odd kW), but were a lot
> better,
> > shall we say, "engineered"?
> >
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 20 17:42:38 2001
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Subject: Re: Re: Air flow meter
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: "Dan Zorde" <dzorde@erggroup.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 08:41:58 +0800
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One of the guys here at work is an ex industrial designer from Holden,
and he was telling me that the 5.7L Commodore engine was extremely
choked when it arrived in the standard trim from USA.  The first thing
Holden did was throw away the throttle body and airflow meter to gain
some significant hp (although couldn't tell me how many).  The apparent
reason for choked intake is due to lack of traction control on the US
cars with this engine (can someone verify this ??).  Holden just
automatically fits traction control to anything high power so that
solved the wheel spin problems.

Dan  dzorde@erggroup.com


<Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 21:01:41 -0400
<From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
<Subject: Re: Air flow meter
<
<Popular, and in some cases, a waste of money.  There are more then just
a
<couple guys hot over having spent some big money on the aftermarkets
and
<slowed down.
<  In theory a reduction in intake tract restriction should show an
<improvement, but you have to be careful of other considerations.  ie,
does
<it effect reproted airflow, and hence mixture, and timing.  Is it just
<correcting a wrong, or actually doing something good.
<  I've tried them (late MAFs), with and without screens, and airfoils,
and
<the 3.5 in a 3.0 housing.  As far as performance goes, in my
application the
<3.5 in a 3.0 with the screens, and the airfoil, and supports removed
were
<the hot set up.  That setup also was the best  in drivibility.
<Bruce




---------------------------- ERG Group --------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 20 18:25:34 2001
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Looking for flow rates for bosch injector number 0 280 150 737.

Thanks
Shannen
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 20 18:36:32 2001
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From: Chris Waltham <chris@harvestroad.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Air flow meter
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>One of the guys here at work is an ex industrial designer from Holden,
>and he was telling me that the 5.7L Commodore engine was extremely
>choked when it arrived in the standard trim from USA.  The first thing
>Holden did was throw away the throttle body and airflow meter to gain
>some significant hp (although couldn't tell me how many).  The apparent
>reason for choked intake is due to lack of traction control on the US
>cars with this engine (can someone verify this ??).  Holden just
>automatically fits traction control to anything high power so that
>solved the wheel spin problems.

I'd be interested to see exactly which cars the LS1 engine is fitted
to in the USA - I can't remember which ones off the top of my head,
but as I said before, I think that the Corvette is *not* one of the
cars that comes with it. Who knows, perhaps GM fits the LS1 to
a Monte Carlo or something ;)

That said, haven't there been some issues w/ LS1s in regards to oil
pumps failing? Or something along those lines..


Chris


>Dan dzorde@erggroup.com
>
>
><Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 21:01:41 -0400
><From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
><Subject: Re: Air flow meter
><
><Popular, and in some cases, a waste of money.  There are more then just
>a
><couple guys hot over having spent some big money on the aftermarkets
>and
><slowed down.
><  In theory a reduction in intake tract restriction should show an
><improvement, but you have to be careful of other considerations.  ie,
>does
><it effect reproted airflow, and hence mixture, and timing.  Is it just
><correcting a wrong, or actually doing something good.
><  I've tried them (late MAFs), with and without screens, and airfoils,
>and
><the 3.5 in a 3.0 housing.  As far as performance goes, in my
>application the
><3.5 in a 3.0 with the screens, and the airfoil, and supports removed
>were
><the hot set up.  That setup also was the best  in drivibility.
><Bruce
>
>
>
>
>---------------------------- ERG Group --------------------------
>  The contents of this email and any attachments are confidential
>  and may only be read by the intended recipient.
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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-- 
Chris Waltham
Systems Administrator
HarvestRoad, Limited.
chris@harvestroad.com
phone: (08) 9338-3000

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 20 19:02:51 2001
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Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:02:30 -0400
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
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The only car currently fitted with the LS1 in the us is the Corvette.

There are no front wheel drive cars equipped with the LS1.

Some pickup trucks have engines related to the LS1, but these engines have
different heads and/or camshafts and/or displacement than the LS1.
Shannen

Chris Waltham wrote:
> 
> >One of the guys here at work is an ex industrial designer from Holden,
> >and he was telling me that the 5.7L Commodore engine was extremely
> >choked when it arrived in the standard trim from USA.  The first thing
> >Holden did was throw away the throttle body and airflow meter to gain
> >some significant hp (although couldn't tell me how many).  The apparent
> >reason for choked intake is due to lack of traction control on the US
> >cars with this engine (can someone verify this ??).  Holden just
> >automatically fits traction control to anything high power so that
> >solved the wheel spin problems.
> 
> I'd be interested to see exactly which cars the LS1 engine is fitted
> to in the USA - I can't remember which ones off the top of my head,
> but as I said before, I think that the Corvette is *not* one of the
> cars that comes with it. Who knows, perhaps GM fits the LS1 to
> a Monte Carlo or something ;)
> 
> That said, haven't there been some issues w/ LS1s in regards to oil
> pumps failing? Or something along those lines..
> 
> Chris
> 
> >Dan dzorde@erggroup.com
> >
> >
> ><Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 21:01:41 -0400
> ><From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
> ><Subject: Re: Air flow meter
> ><
> ><Popular, and in some cases, a waste of money.  There are more then just
> >a
> ><couple guys hot over having spent some big money on the aftermarkets
> >and
> ><slowed down.
> ><  In theory a reduction in intake tract restriction should show an
> ><improvement, but you have to be careful of other considerations.  ie,
> >does
> ><it effect reproted airflow, and hence mixture, and timing.  Is it just
> ><correcting a wrong, or actually doing something good.
> ><  I've tried them (late MAFs), with and without screens, and airfoils,
> >and
> ><the 3.5 in a 3.0 housing.  As far as performance goes, in my
> >application the
> ><3.5 in a 3.0 with the screens, and the airfoil, and supports removed
> >were
> ><the hot set up.  That setup also was the best  in drivibility.
> ><Bruce
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >---------------------------- ERG Group --------------------------
> >  The contents of this email and any attachments are confidential
> >  and may only be read by the intended recipient.
> >-----------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
> >in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> 
> --
> Chris Waltham
> Systems Administrator
> HarvestRoad, Limited.
> chris@harvestroad.com
> phone: (08) 9338-3000
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 20 19:06:19 2001
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From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
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These injectors are listed as fitting the Audi 2.2l engine.  Any good Audi site
links will be welcomed also.
Shannen

Shannen Durphey wrote:
> 
> Looking for flow rates for bosch injector number 0 280 150 737.
> 
> Thanks
> Shannen
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 20 19:36:19 2001
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Apologies....

The LS1 is also supplied in F cars, Camaros and Firebirds.
Shannen

Shannen Durphey wrote:
> 
> The only car currently fitted with the LS1 in the us is the Corvette.
> 
> There are no front wheel drive cars equipped with the LS1.
> 
> Some pickup trucks have engines related to the LS1, but these engines have
> different heads and/or camshafts and/or displacement than the LS1.
> Shannen
> 
> Chris Waltham wrote:
> >
> > >One of the guys here at work is an ex industrial designer from Holden,
> > >and he was telling me that the 5.7L Commodore engine was extremely
> > >choked when it arrived in the standard trim from USA.  The first thing
> > >Holden did was throw away the throttle body and airflow meter to gain
> > >some significant hp (although couldn't tell me how many).  The apparent
> > >reason for choked intake is due to lack of traction control on the US
> > >cars with this engine (can someone verify this ??).  Holden just
> > >automatically fits traction control to anything high power so that
> > >solved the wheel spin problems.
> >
> > I'd be interested to see exactly which cars the LS1 engine is fitted
> > to in the USA - I can't remember which ones off the top of my head,
> > but as I said before, I think that the Corvette is *not* one of the
> > cars that comes with it. Who knows, perhaps GM fits the LS1 to
> > a Monte Carlo or something ;)
> >
> > That said, haven't there been some issues w/ LS1s in regards to oil
> > pumps failing? Or something along those lines..
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > >Dan dzorde@erggroup.com
> > >
> > >
> > ><Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 21:01:41 -0400
> > ><From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
> > ><Subject: Re: Air flow meter
> > ><
> > ><Popular, and in some cases, a waste of money.  There are more then just
> > >a
> > ><couple guys hot over having spent some big money on the aftermarkets
> > >and
> > ><slowed down.
> > ><  In theory a reduction in intake tract restriction should show an
> > ><improvement, but you have to be careful of other considerations.  ie,
> > >does
> > ><it effect reproted airflow, and hence mixture, and timing.  Is it just
> > ><correcting a wrong, or actually doing something good.
> > ><  I've tried them (late MAFs), with and without screens, and airfoils,
> > >and
> > ><the 3.5 in a 3.0 housing.  As far as performance goes, in my
> > >application the
> > ><3.5 in a 3.0 with the screens, and the airfoil, and supports removed
> > >were
> > ><the hot set up.  That setup also was the best  in drivibility.
> > ><Bruce
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >---------------------------- ERG Group --------------------------
> > >  The contents of this email and any attachments are confidential
> > >  and may only be read by the intended recipient.
> > >-----------------------------------------------------------------
> > >
> > >----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > >To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
> > >in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> > --
> > Chris Waltham
> > Systems Administrator
> > HarvestRoad, Limited.
> > chris@harvestroad.com
> > phone: (08) 9338-3000
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 20 19:39:10 2001
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From: "Josh Ely" <braxx@mediaone.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <200108150800.BAA08933@hektor.valesh.com> <01081505575503.21580@localhost.localdomain>
Subject: Re: building boards
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:26:54 -0400
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 I REALLY don't want to step on any toe's. I am fairly new to the list and I
love it! I am not very good at building electrical devices, so this would be
a great option for me if it does become availible. I hope that I am not
excluded from being able to own a DIY-WB O2 because I can't assemble the
components my self. Also, being that I work in the automotive industry I can
"feel" for someone that is subject to lay off! If there is a question as to
someone profiting from these. I don't understand why I can't pay someone to
assemble it for me? Does it mean that I am doomed to not owning a diy-wb O2
because I am not as talented as most people on this list?
Josh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve" <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 6:57 AM
Subject: Re: building boards


> On Wednesday 15 August 2001 03:00, you wrote:
>
> Sept 1 the lady at work that builds boards our proto is laid off . could
talk
> to her and she could build yours and others for price . doing it 15 yrs
>
> Steve
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Aug 20 20:01:23 2001
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From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: building boards
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 23:01:06 -0400
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Have you thought to make a sincere and total effort at learning how?.
Have you thought of really trying to make enough connections to barter for
it?.
Sure it's easy to give up and quit.
Bruce




From: "Josh Ely" <braxx@mediaone.net>
> I REALLY don't want to step on any toe's. I am fairly new to the list and
I
> love it! I am not very good at building electrical devices, so this would
be
> a great option for me if it does become availible. I hope that I am not
> excluded from being able to own a DIY-WB O2 because I can't assemble the
> components my self. Also, being that I work in the automotive industry I
can
> "feel" for someone that is subject to lay off! If there is a question as
to
> someone profiting from these. I don't understand why I can't pay someone
to
> assemble it for me? Does it mean that I am doomed to not owning a diy-wb
O2
> because I am not as talented as most people on this list?
> Josh
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve" <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 6:57 AM
> Subject: Re: building boards
>
>
> > On Wednesday 15 August 2001 03:00, you wrote:
> >
> > Sept 1 the lady at work that builds boards our proto is laid off . could
> talk
> > to her and she could build yours and others for price . doing it 15 yrs
> >
> > Steve
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug 21 00:24:56 2001
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From: "Daniel" <bossute@iprimus.com.au>
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References: <OFFBAD601C.0AC9B774-ON48256AAF.000314A6@erggroup.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Air flow meter
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 15:26:02 +0800
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That sounds a bit odd as the Aussie cars are down on power compared to the
Camaro / Firebird
I know that Holden put a exhaust restriction in the non HSV cars where the
header flange is. Put the HSV exhaust on and its straight up to 250KW.
Our PCM is supposedly detuned as well as runs a lot richer at WOT than the
yank cars.

Daniel


----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Zorde" <dzorde@erggroup.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 8:41 AM
Subject: Re: Re: Air flow meter


>
> One of the guys here at work is an ex industrial designer from Holden,
> and he was telling me that the 5.7L Commodore engine was extremely
> choked when it arrived in the standard trim from USA.  The first thing
> Holden did was throw away the throttle body and airflow meter to gain
> some significant hp (although couldn't tell me how many).  The apparent
> reason for choked intake is due to lack of traction control on the US
> cars with this engine (can someone verify this ??).  Holden just
> automatically fits traction control to anything high power so that
> solved the wheel spin problems.
>
> Dan  dzorde@erggroup.com
>
>
> <Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 21:01:41 -0400
> <From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
> <Subject: Re: Air flow meter
> <
> <Popular, and in some cases, a waste of money.  There are more then just
> a
> <couple guys hot over having spent some big money on the aftermarkets
> and
> <slowed down.
> <  In theory a reduction in intake tract restriction should show an
> <improvement, but you have to be careful of other considerations.  ie,
> does
> <it effect reproted airflow, and hence mixture, and timing.  Is it just
> <correcting a wrong, or actually doing something good.
> <  I've tried them (late MAFs), with and without screens, and airfoils,
> and
> <the 3.5 in a 3.0 housing.  As far as performance goes, in my
> application the
> <3.5 in a 3.0 with the screens, and the airfoil, and supports removed
> were
> <the hot set up.  That setup also was the best  in drivibility.
> <Bruce
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------- ERG Group --------------------------
>  The contents of this email and any attachments are confidential
>  and may only be read by the intended recipient.
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Aug 21 01:39:05 2001
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #704
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: "Dan Zorde" <dzorde@erggroup.com>
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 16:38:25 +0800
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I guess that what the engineers do with a new toy and what makes it on
the road are two different things.  One reason for the restrictor could
be the decrease in power on purpose as I'm not sure the non-HSV cars are
fitted with traction control.  And you don't really w
