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Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2001 16:03:34 -0700
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From: Brian Renegar <thomas.renegar@nist.gov>
Subject: Re: DIY-WB construction question
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>J9 & J10 are the cal resistor. You can run wire out to the plug on the
>sensor where the cal resistor is located or measure it and place a like
>resistor across J9 & J10. I'm running the wire out and back. Mark


Ok, I guess I don't know how the sensor is set up then.  I thought that the 
cal resistor was wired within the 5 wires on the connector.  Is that not 
the case?

Brian

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Subject: DIY-WB... It's alive...
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Got the board finished and mounted in the box to the lid like Bob R did. Put
the terminal strip on the top side of the lid. Got everything hooked up and
it heated but voltage stayed at 2.48 volt. Took it back apart and I put the
led in backwards and had one of the leads on capacitor C7 touching the trace
crossing under it. Not quite the way it's supposed to be. Repaired those
goofs and it works!! Clean air voltage is 3.98 and sticking it in the end of
the tail pipe on my Escort shows voltages down to 2.2 volt just patting the
gas pedal. Now have to put a bung in front of the cat to get more accurate
part throttle readings. Am going to make a two bung pipe kinda like Bruce's
so I can check it against Horiba driving around. Later, Mark

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  2 13:17:42 2001
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Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...
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I'm probably as excited as you, to hear it's working...
POWWOW should be even more fun with some WBs here.
Bruce




From: "Mark S. Riley" <turbotuneusltd@triad.rr.com>
Subject: DIY-WB... It's alive...


> Got the board finished and mounted in the box to the lid like Bob R did.
Put
> the terminal strip on the top side of the lid. Got everything hooked up
and
> it heated but voltage stayed at 2.48 volt. Took it back apart and I put
the
> led in backwards and had one of the leads on capacitor C7 touching the
trace
> crossing under it. Not quite the way it's supposed to be. Repaired those
> goofs and it works!! Clean air voltage is 3.98 and sticking it in the end
of
> the tail pipe on my Escort shows voltages down to 2.2 volt just patting
the
> gas pedal. Now have to put a bung in front of the cat to get more accurate
> part throttle readings. Am going to make a two bung pipe kinda like
Bruce's
> so I can check it against Horiba driving around. Later, Mark


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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  2 14:02:11 2001
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Subject: Re: DIY-WB construction question
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 16:57:38 -0400
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The plug on the sensor is actually an 8 pin unit. 5 are used for the heater
and sensor, 1 is blanked off, and the last 2 are where the cal resistor is
located. It works. Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Renegar" <thomas.renegar@nist.gov>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 7:03 PM
Subject: Re: DIY-WB construction question


>
> >J9 & J10 are the cal resistor. You can run wire out to the plug on the
> >sensor where the cal resistor is located or measure it and place a like
> >resistor across J9 & J10. I'm running the wire out and back. Mark
>
>
> Ok, I guess I don't know how the sensor is set up then.  I thought that
the
> cal resistor was wired within the 5 wires on the connector.  Is that not
> the case?
>
> Brian
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  2 14:19:52 2001
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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
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Subject: RE: DIY-WB... It's alive...
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 14:23:43 -0700
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I have a question about O2 sensors in general.  On a fuel injection
setup where the ignition has a bad miss or even fails for a 1/4 second
while injection continues,  will the O2 sensor go rich because the fuel
isn't being burnt or lean because the O2 is still in the mixture.

That then begs the question.  If the Stochimetric condition is when all
the O2 used to burn all the fuel,  how can it ever show a rich
condition?

Regards,

John Dammeyer

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org] On
Behalf Of Mark S. Riley
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 1:11 PM
To: GM-ECM List; diy-efi list
Subject: DIY-WB... It's alive...


Got the board finished and mounted in the box to the lid like Bob R did.
Put the terminal strip on the top side of the lid. Got everything hooked
up and it heated but voltage stayed at 2.48 volt. Took it back apart and
I put the led in backwards and had one of the leads on capacitor C7
touching the trace crossing under it. Not quite the way it's supposed to
be. Repaired those goofs and it works!! Clean air voltage is 3.98 and
sticking it in the end of the tail pipe on my Escort shows voltages down
to 2.2 volt just patting the gas pedal. Now have to put a bung in front
of the cat to get more accurate part throttle readings. Am going to make
a two bung pipe kinda like Bruce's so I can check it against Horiba
driving around. Later, Mark

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  2 14:38:51 2001
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Subject: Re: Wide Band O2 Sensor Project
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: "Don DRI05 Ricciardiello" <dricciardiello@qantas.com.au>
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 07:38:09 +1000
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Any hints to this link for the digital readout?

regds

Don






The WB O2 output is used for datalogging, or there is a digital readout
available from an Australian firm for about $39.00 (you'll have to search
back
through a couple of weeks of the DIY EFI mail to find the link).



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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  2 15:22:42 2001
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http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/FMD.htm

----- Original Message -----
From: "Don DRI05 Ricciardiello" <dricciardiello@qantas.com.au>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 5:38 PM
Subject: Re: Wide Band O2 Sensor Project


>
> Any hints to this link for the digital readout?
>
> regds
>
> Don
>
>
>
>
>
>
> The WB O2 output is used for datalogging, or there is a digital readout
> available from an Australian firm for about $39.00 (you'll have to search
> back
> through a couple of weeks of the DIY EFI mail to find the link).
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  2 15:55:54 2001
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Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...
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> I have a question about O2 sensors in general.  On a fuel injection
> setup where the ignition has a bad miss or even fails for a 1/4 second
> while injection continues,  will the O2 sensor go rich because the fuel
> isn't being burnt or lean because the O2 is still in the mixture.<<

Yes--the overall AFR goes richer, as the missfire is "calculated" as being
lean. It's interpretted as being lean because of excess O2 in the exhaust.
The same thing happens with any false air ahead of the O2 sensor.

> That then begs the question.  If the Stochimetric condition is when all
> the O2 used to burn all the fuel,  how can it ever show a rich
> condition?<<

Because of the type of O2 sensor, it only works in a very narrow band
around 14.7--not all the O2 is gone, however...there's still enough for
proper converter operation.

Lyndon.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org] On
> Behalf Of Mark S. Riley
> Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 1:11 PM
> To: GM-ECM List; diy-efi list
> Subject: DIY-WB... It's alive...
>
>
> Got the board finished and mounted in the box to the lid like Bob R did.
> Put the terminal strip on the top side of the lid. Got everything hooked
> up and it heated but voltage stayed at 2.48 volt. Took it back apart and
> I put the led in backwards and had one of the leads on capacitor C7
> touching the trace crossing under it. Not quite the way it's supposed to
> be. Repaired those goofs and it works!! Clean air voltage is 3.98 and
> sticking it in the end of the tail pipe on my Escort shows voltages down
> to 2.2 volt just patting the gas pedal. Now have to put a bung in front
> of the cat to get more accurate part throttle readings. Am going to make
> a two bung pipe kinda like Bruce's so I can check it against Horiba
> driving around. Later, Mark
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to
> majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
>
>
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>

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Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2001 20:03:12 -0400
From: Seth <sethea@mediaone.net>
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Subject: Re: D-Jetronic
References: <MABBIGKLFGKEAFAIBLJDIEAIDEAA.ronbendiks@home.com>
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I would suggest making a measurement at the connector to the ECU. Some
D-jets have a idle air bypass that can stick open or closed and this can
cause the same symptoms as well.

-Seth

"Ron A. Bendiks" wrote:
> 
> Seth,
> Thanks for responding.  Yes, the sensor seems ok.  I checked for proper ohms
> to temperature.  Did not check the connection back to the ECU.  Is there a
> proper way, or can I just check wire continuity or ohms at the ECU?
> Thanks,
> Ron
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On Behalf
> Of Seth
> Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 1:54 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: D-Jetronic
> 
> Sounds like it isn't sensing engine temperature correctly. Have you
> checked the output of the sensor and the connection all the way back to
> the ECU?
> 
> "Ron A. Bendiks" wrote:
> >
> > Hello Listers,
> > I'm new to the list.  My name is Ron Bendiks, I'm from Valparaiso, IN.
> I've
> > posted this problem on other lists with no successful solutions.  I'm
> hoping
> > you can help me.  I have a 1974 Mercedes 450SL.  The car starts right up,
> > idles on high for a while, etc., but when I drive it cold, it misfires
> until
> > it is warmed up to 180 degrees.  When warm, it runs like new.  I'm fresh
> out
> > of ideas.  Can anyone point me in the right direction?
> > Thanks,
> > Ron A. Bendiks
> > 1974 450SL
> > 57,000 miles
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  2 17:11:39 2001
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As mentioned the O2 sensor responds first & foremost to O2. When
the exhaust is stoich, the partial pressure of O2 in the atmosphere will
cause the O2 sensor to generate ~450mV. In order for the O2 sensor
to detect a rich condition, there is a platinum coating on the sensor cone.

Platinum being the catalyst it is will burn off the HC by pulling O2
through the porus cone. This action generates a voltage > 450mV.

BobR.

John Dammeyer wrote:

> I have a question about O2 sensors in general.  On a fuel injection
> setup where the ignition has a bad miss or even fails for a 1/4 second
> while injection continues,  will the O2 sensor go rich because the fuel
> isn't being burnt or lean because the O2 is still in the mixture.
>
> That then begs the question.  If the Stochimetric condition is when all
> the O2 used to burn all the fuel,  how can it ever show a rich
> condition?
>
> Regards,
>
> John Dammeyer
>
> -----Original Message-----

<snip>


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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  2 17:18:10 2001
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Subject: Re: D-Jetronic
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Bad thermo time switch ?
Sticking auxiliary air valve ?

Lyndon

> "Ron A. Bendiks" wrote:
> >
> > Hello Listers,
> > I'm new to the list.  My name is Ron Bendiks, I'm from Valparaiso, IN.
I've
> > posted this problem on other lists with no successful solutions.  I'm
hoping
> > you can help me.  I have a 1974 Mercedes 450SL.  The car starts right
up,
> > idles on high for a while, etc., but when I drive it cold, it misfires
until
> > it is warmed up to 180 degrees.  When warm, it runs like new.  I'm fresh
out
> > of ideas.  Can anyone point me in the right direction?
> > Thanks,
> > Ron A. Bendiks
> > 1974 450SL
> > 57,000 miles
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  2 17:41:02 2001
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Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2001 17:53:15 -0700
From: Doug Dayson <djdayson@home.com>
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Subject: Any Available PCB's In The US Currently?
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So are PCB's currently available in the US?

I must have missed this whole PCB offering somehow...???

If no, amnytime soon?

Thanks...

Doug

J-----Original Message-----

> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org] On
> Behalf Of Bruce
> Sent: Friday, September 01, 2000 6:43 AM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: Wide Band O2 Sensor Project
>
> There has been more then one batch of boards.
> The first batch weren't open to the public, it was a matter of ordering
> a few, and just seeing what they looked like, how they assembled, and if
> they
> worked.   Then boards were offered to the public, that's where things
> are.
> Bruce
>
> > I have yet to recieve confirmation for my boards or parts kits order,
> > and I don't think I'm the only one, and it's getting me a little
> worried
> > since some people have already recieved boards.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  2 17:48:28 2001
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Subject: Re: DIY-WB construction question
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>The plug on the sensor is actually an 8 pin unit. 5 are used for the heater
>and sensor, 1 is blanked off, and the last 2 are where the cal resistor is
>located. It works. Mark


Ok, so the cal resistor is located in the connector?  Then what is the 
silver crimped cylinder on the wires in this picture: 
ftp://diy-efi.org/pub/diy_efi/project_files/diy_wb1/wb-sensor.jpg  I 
thought that's where the resistor was located.

Also, can the resistor be moved from the sensor to the board, or is it just 
better to run all 7 wires out to the sensor?

Thanks,
Brian

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  2 18:02:04 2001
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Subject: Oz DIY-WB board & sensor group purchase
References: <OF5E2F3198.9F9D6FE3-ON4A256ABB.0076AE1C@qantas.com.au> <03d501c133fe$7054cd00$20613942@triad.rr.com>
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Most of this is relevant only to potential Australian 
purchasers of the DIY-WB PCB & sensor.

PCB
---
People keeping up with the list would have heard that the
Australian group purchase closed a while ago. We couldn't
produce a local PCB at as low a cost as the US group buy, so
I've decided to get the boards as part of the US group buy too.
I also decided to order a few extra boards on the basis that
more people would want PCBs after the Oz group buy closed.

Board may even be as low as AU$10 (1 off) shipped to your door.
But these excess PCBs will be sold strictly on a first come first
serve basis.

PARTS KIT
---------
I've decide to go out on a limb and offer a DIY-WB kit of parts to
all local PCB purchasers. It will be at cost + AU$20. It's still DIY,
all I'm offering is a means to save people the time they would
otherwise each individually spend sourcing these parts from a few
different places. I'm certainly not doing this as a money making
proposition as my time is more valuable than the hourly rate I'd
be notionally making, but I'm doing it to make the point that DIY
does not have to mean people are not recompensed for extra work
they offer. I can expand on my expressed attitude if anyone is not
happy with this brief explanation.

Sensor connector may be a problem unless there are a lot of junkyard
Hondas MY 93-96 with the same headlight harness connector as the US
models (thanks for the info Mark Riley).

SENSOR
------
As PCBs have not shipped yet, I have not actually finalised the
Honda/NTK sensor group purchase (which is currently at qty. 15).
All PCB purchasers have been given the opportunity to beat The
Parts Bin price of US$117.78 + freight - if we can do better, then
I'll go with that, but that looks like the best deal. I've also
reminded people that freight will be added and GST may be a factor
too. US$117.78 is about AU$225. Landed price will some tens of AU$s
higher.

ORDERS
------
Bottom line is, if you want a DIY-WB PCB, a parts kit, or a sensor
then your time is limited.

Peter.
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  2 18:42:48 2001
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Subject: Re: Oz DIY-WB board & sensor group purchase
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Hey Bob:
I'd like to buy the boards Peter ordered.

I'd also like to suggest also canceling the whole PCB group buy.

Now, I am Grumpy
Grumpy

PS. Reply to EFIWhiners.com


----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Gargano" <peter@techedge.com.au>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 9:04 PM
Subject: Oz DIY-WB board & sensor group purchase


> Most of this is relevant only to potential Australian
> purchasers of the DIY-WB PCB & sensor.
>
> PCB
> ---
> People keeping up with the list would have heard that the
> Australian group purchase closed a while ago. We couldn't
> produce a local PCB at as low a cost as the US group buy, so
> I've decided to get the boards as part of the US group buy too.
> I also decided to order a few extra boards on the basis that
> more people would want PCBs after the Oz group buy closed.
>
> Board may even be as low as AU$10 (1 off) shipped to your door.
> But these excess PCBs will be sold strictly on a first come first
> serve basis.
>
> PARTS KIT
> ---------
> I've decide to go out on a limb and offer a DIY-WB kit of parts to
> all local PCB purchasers. It will be at cost + AU$20. It's still DIY,
> all I'm offering is a means to save people the time they would
> otherwise each individually spend sourcing these parts from a few
> different places. I'm certainly not doing this as a money making
> proposition as my time is more valuable than the hourly rate I'd
> be notionally making, but I'm doing it to make the point that DIY
> does not have to mean people are not recompensed for extra work
> they offer. I can expand on my expressed attitude if anyone is not
> happy with this brief explanation.
>
> Sensor connector may be a problem unless there are a lot of junkyard
> Hondas MY 93-96 with the same headlight harness connector as the US
> models (thanks for the info Mark Riley).
>
> SENSOR
> ------
> As PCBs have not shipped yet, I have not actually finalised the
> Honda/NTK sensor group purchase (which is currently at qty. 15).
> All PCB purchasers have been given the opportunity to beat The
> Parts Bin price of US$117.78 + freight - if we can do better, then
> I'll go with that, but that looks like the best deal. I've also
> reminded people that freight will be added and GST may be a factor
> too. US$117.78 is about AU$225. Landed price will some tens of AU$s
> higher.
>
> ORDERS
> ------
> Bottom line is, if you want a DIY-WB PCB, a parts kit, or a sensor
> then your time is limited.
>
> Peter.
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>

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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: DIY-WB... It's alive...
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 19:21:30 -0700
Organization: Automation Artisans Inc.
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Good description but if the Stoich is 100% utilization of the O2 in the
mixture how does the catalyst burn off the HC.  Or is that why the WB
sensors don't do much better than 10:1 AF ratio whereas they can go
considerably further in the lean direction?

John


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org] On
Behalf Of rr
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 5:15 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...



As mentioned the O2 sensor responds first & foremost to O2. When the
exhaust is stoich, the partial pressure of O2 in the atmosphere will
cause the O2 sensor to generate ~450mV. In order for the O2 sensor to
detect a rich condition, there is a platinum coating on the sensor cone.

Platinum being the catalyst it is will burn off the HC by pulling O2
through the porus cone. This action generates a voltage > 450mV.

BobR.

John Dammeyer wrote:

> I have a question about O2 sensors in general.  On a fuel injection 
> setup where the ignition has a bad miss or even fails for a 1/4 second

> while injection continues,  will the O2 sensor go rich because the 
> fuel isn't being burnt or lean because the O2 is still in the mixture.
>
> That then begs the question.  If the Stochimetric condition is when 
> all the O2 used to burn all the fuel,  how can it ever show a rich 
> condition?
>
> Regards,
>
> John Dammeyer
>
> -----Original Message-----

<snip>


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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  2 19:40:09 2001
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From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...
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Engines don't run at stoich..  The ecm toggles the mixture across it.  In
closed loop the AFR AVERAGES 14.7:1.

I can't image a (conventional) gas engine being able to run at richer then
10:1.  Whereas there are lean burn engines that can run really lean.  The
sensor is designed for a given range, if they wanted I'm sure they could set
one up to run from 14.7 to 40:1, by why go so far into a range that for all
practical purposes doesn't exist.
Bruce



From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
Subject: RE: DIY-WB... It's alive...
> Good description but if the Stoich is 100% utilization of the O2 in the
> mixture how does the catalyst burn off the HC.  Or is that why the WB
> sensors don't do much better than 10:1 AF ratio whereas they can go
> considerably further in the lean direction?
> John

> Behalf Of rr
> Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...
> As mentioned the O2 sensor responds first & foremost to O2. When the
> exhaust is stoich, the partial pressure of O2 in the atmosphere will
> cause the O2 sensor to generate ~450mV. In order for the O2 sensor to
> detect a rich condition, there is a platinum coating on the sensor cone.
> Platinum being the catalyst it is will burn off the HC by pulling O2
> through the porus cone. This action generates a voltage > 450mV.
> BobR.


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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  2 20:06:46 2001
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From: "Ken Richardson" <krichar@ns.sympatico.ca>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>, <gmecm@diy-efi.org>
References: <3B86315E.27965.14F534F5@localhost> <4.3.2.7.0.20010824214559.00bca1f0@pop.netzero.net> <3B885A13.5403C12B@optushome.com.au> <3B8900B0.D892A94F@clarityconnect.com> <3B8A41C9.B2E2E77D@optushome.com.au> <3B8C589F.3FACAB11@clarityconnect.com> <3B9034E0.B4E192ED@optushome.com.au> <000901c132d3$00c540e0$db2ce2d1@expressvu.ca> <3B90D137.14AD1869@optushome.com.au> <003d01c01415$63203de0$a80ac9d8@bruce>
Subject: Re: ALDL Updates
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 00:05:27 -0300
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Richard,

You're starting to sound like a troll. You make little sense at all. I
shouldn't even be replying to this message.

>> We now have control of what is sent as ALDL data.

So you're saying you've created a replacement program for the stock program
in all GM vehicles? Maybe even a complete replacement ECM with a super fast
serial output? Something that's not compatible with anything but your own
scan tool?

Good luck trying to sell it.
Ken


----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <gmecm@diy-efi.org>; <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Friday, September 01, 2000 10:06 AM
Subject: ALDL Updates


> From: "Richard Wakeling" <kojab@optushome.com.au>
> Subject: Re: DIY-WB Output Voltage Scaling
> > Hi Ken,
> >     I guess you have had your head in the sand too. Ken I am dragging
you
> into
> > this whether you like it or not. How does that make you feel? Just
> kidding.
> > Scot is not correct and neither are you. Throw away your GM's P4 data
> stream
> > specs. We have (Dicks Electronics) rewritten the data stream. There is
no
> longer
> > a heart beat. We are no longer requesting data. We now have control of
> what is
> > sent as ALDL data. Ken do you know what this means?    Do you really
think
> this
> > is BS?  I don't like BS.
> > Cheers Richard.
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  2 20:47:03 2001
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From: "Mark S. Riley" <turbotuneusltd@triad.rr.com>
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Subject: Re: DIY-WB construction question
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 23:51:39 -0400
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I think you are referring to the kinda dogbone shaped thing in the middle of
the wires. Has a clamp on the upper end of it. That is a rubber gromet for
keeping the wiring off the exhaust on the Honda this was made for. On the
plug facing up, there is a squarish block beside the orange and yellow
wires. This is where the cal resistor lives. Yes, you could measure the
resistor and put one of like resistance on the circuit board. This is how
NTK calibrates  different sensors so the circuit will respond the same if
you had to change the sensor. Like as in killed it with leaded racing gas.
New sensor, new cal resistor to make it read correctly. You could put a
socket on the board and make the resistor a plug-in. This is what Bob R
mentioned a while back. I found a 22 gauge 5 conductor cable over at the
local CB shop and a paired red/black 18 gauge power cord for the heater
circuit. Bought 30 ft of each for 2 DIY-WB's for $20.00. Taped them together
about every 6". Made the power wires about 4 ft long so the box can sit in
the passenger floorboard like BC Roe's pictures and get to any conceivable
fuse box for power. Need to take some pictures and post them up somewhere.
Tomorrow. Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Renegar" <thomas.renegar@nist.gov>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 11:51 PM
Subject: Re: DIY-WB construction question


>
> >The plug on the sensor is actually an 8 pin unit. 5 are used for the
heater
> >and sensor, 1 is blanked off, and the last 2 are where the cal resistor
is
> >located. It works. Mark
>
>
> Ok, so the cal resistor is located in the connector?  Then what is the
> silver crimped cylinder on the wires in this picture:
> ftp://diy-efi.org/pub/diy_efi/project_files/diy_wb1/wb-sensor.jpg  I
> thought that's where the resistor was located.
>
> Also, can the resistor be moved from the sensor to the board, or is it
just
> better to run all 7 wires out to the sensor?
>
> Thanks,
> Brian
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 13:09:04 -0600
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Does the O2 make the 450 mV, or is it bias voltage from the ECM ?

Lyndon
----- Original Message -----
From: rr <RRauscher@nni.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: September 2, 2001 6:15 PM
Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...


>
> As mentioned the O2 sensor responds first & foremost to O2. When
> the exhaust is stoich, the partial pressure of O2 in the atmosphere will
> cause the O2 sensor to generate ~450mV. In order for the O2 sensor
> to detect a rich condition, there is a platinum coating on the sensor
cone.
>
> Platinum being the catalyst it is will burn off the HC by pulling O2
> through the porus cone. This action generates a voltage > 450mV.
>
> BobR.
>
> John Dammeyer wrote:
>
> > I have a question about O2 sensors in general.  On a fuel injection
> > setup where the ignition has a bad miss or even fails for a 1/4 second
> > while injection continues,  will the O2 sensor go rich because the fuel
> > isn't being burnt or lean because the O2 is still in the mixture.
> >
> > That then begs the question.  If the Stochimetric condition is when all
> > the O2 used to burn all the fuel,  how can it ever show a rich
> > condition?
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > John Dammeyer
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
>
> <snip>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun Sep  2 21:17:08 2001
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From: "Mark S. Riley" <turbotuneusltd@triad.rr.com>
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References: <000401c1341f$24cc3dc0$0100a8c0@telus.net>
Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 00:16:37 -0400
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Stoich is not 100% utilization of the O2. Stoich is the point at which the
gas emissions are the lowest and highest. I'll have to break out a book,
can't remember  the exact numbers but stoichimetric is not neccessarily
where you might want to run your engine. But it does give the lowest
emissions there. So, that's why the all the OEM's are so concerned with it.
And that's why O2 sensors and all fuel air meters currently used are so
concerned with it.
As for the range 10:1 to approximately 22:1 is not really where gas engines
run. Quite frequently meters will read over a far larger range than what is
neccessary or wanted. I think the fact that the sensor will read to 20/22:1
is like the air conditioning freon sniffers. I have one of those that is so
sensitive, the manufactor claims it will detect a 1 OZ. per year leak. Any
idea what that kind of ratio that might be, 5 million to 1 or something
ridiculous. Gasoline engine will run fairly reliably in the range of 11.5:1
up to 16.5:1. Numbers that low don't make max power and numbers that high
can't make much but it will run. I don't think anyone has every come close
to 100% utilization of the O2. Top Fuel might be the closest but I still
think they have a long way to go to 100%. later, Mark

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 10:21 PM
Subject: RE: DIY-WB... It's alive...


> Good description but if the Stoich is 100% utilization of the O2 in the
> mixture how does the catalyst burn off the HC.  Or is that why the WB
> sensors don't do much better than 10:1 AF ratio whereas they can go
> considerably further in the lean direction?
>
> John
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org] On
> Behalf Of rr
> Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 5:15 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...
>
>
>
> As mentioned the O2 sensor responds first & foremost to O2. When the
> exhaust is stoich, the partial pressure of O2 in the atmosphere will
> cause the O2 sensor to generate ~450mV. In order for the O2 sensor to
> detect a rich condition, there is a platinum coating on the sensor cone.
>
> Platinum being the catalyst it is will burn off the HC by pulling O2
> through the porus cone. This action generates a voltage > 450mV.
>
> BobR.
>
> John Dammeyer wrote:
>
> > I have a question about O2 sensors in general.  On a fuel injection
> > setup where the ignition has a bad miss or even fails for a 1/4 second
>
> > while injection continues,  will the O2 sensor go rich because the
> > fuel isn't being burnt or lean because the O2 is still in the mixture.
> >
> > That then begs the question.  If the Stochimetric condition is when
> > all the O2 used to burn all the fuel,  how can it ever show a rich
> > condition?
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > John Dammeyer
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
>
> <snip>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----
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> quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to
> majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
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>
>
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Mark, thanks for the info.  Yeah, I was talking about the "dogbone" looking 
thing.  :)  Pretty cool idea having the resistor matched with the 
sensor.  Sure does make it easier to just drop a new sensor in, and still 
have it calibrated properly.  If you get a chance, I'd sure like to see any 
pictures you have of the completed setup.

Thanks again,
Brian


>I think you are referring to the kinda dogbone shaped thing in the middle of
>the wires. Has a clamp on the upper end of it. That is a rubber gromet for
>keeping the wiring off the exhaust on the Honda this was made for. On the
>plug facing up, there is a squarish block beside the orange and yellow
>wires. This is where the cal resistor lives. Yes, you could measure the
>resistor and put one of like resistance on the circuit board. This is how
>NTK calibrates  different sensors so the circuit will respond the same if
>you had to change the sensor. Like as in killed it with leaded racing gas.
>New sensor, new cal resistor to make it read correctly. You could put a
>socket on the board and make the resistor a plug-in. This is what Bob R
>mentioned a while back. I found a 22 gauge 5 conductor cable over at the
>local CB shop and a paired red/black 18 gauge power cord for the heater
>circuit. Bought 30 ft of each for 2 DIY-WB's for $20.00. Taped them together
>about every 6". Made the power wires about 4 ft long so the box can sit in
>the passenger floorboard like BC Roe's pictures and get to any conceivable
>fuse box for power. Need to take some pictures and post them up somewhere.
>Tomorrow. Mark

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Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...
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> Does the O2 make the 450 mV, or is it bias voltage from the ECM ?

On GMecms, the ecm generates a ~450mv at an extremely low current to sense
if the O2 is connected.  Disconnecting the O2 sensor, so this voltage
doesn't change gets a code 13
Bruce

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The general consensus has been that the ECM applies the bias. I have
not found any evidence of this. Maybe some ECMs do. My belief is
that the sensor that generates this voltage.

BobR.

Programmer wrote:

> Does the O2 make the 450 mV, or is it bias voltage from the ECM ?
>
> Lyndon
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: rr <RRauscher@nni.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: September 2, 2001 6:15 PM
> Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...
>
> >
> > As mentioned the O2 sensor responds first & foremost to O2. When
> > the exhaust is stoich, the partial pressure of O2 in the atmosphere will
> > cause the O2 sensor to generate ~450mV. In order for the O2 sensor
> > to detect a rich condition, there is a platinum coating on the sensor
> cone.
> >
> > Platinum being the catalyst it is will burn off the HC by pulling O2
> > through the porus cone. This action generates a voltage > 450mV.
> >
> > BobR.
> >
> > John Dammeyer wrote:
> >
> > > I have a question about O2 sensors in general.  On a fuel injection
> > > setup where the ignition has a bad miss or even fails for a 1/4 second
> > > while injection continues,  will the O2 sensor go rich because the fuel
> > > isn't being burnt or lean because the O2 is still in the mixture.
> > >
> > > That then begs the question.  If the Stochimetric condition is when all
> > > the O2 used to burn all the fuel,  how can it ever show a rich
> > > condition?
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > John Dammeyer
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > <snip>
> >
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Subject: Re: Oz DIY-WB board & sensor group purchase
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Wow, the rules have changed. I can handle this. Since I now have a bunch
of boards the cost will be at cost + $20US. Now this is hardly anything
considering the amount of time & effort that we put into designing, testing,
changing, retesting, prototyping, doing a schematic capture, layout, dealing
with the board house, setting up a web site for orders, shipping.

I'm sure everyone will understand.

BobR.

P.S. This is a test, a test of peoples integrity. We now return you to
your regularly scheduled program.

Bruce wrote:

> Hey Bob:
> I'd like to buy the boards Peter ordered.
>
> I'd also like to suggest also canceling the whole PCB group buy.
>
> Now, I am Grumpy
> Grumpy
>
> PS. Reply to EFIWhiners.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Peter Gargano" <peter@techedge.com.au>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 9:04 PM
> Subject: Oz DIY-WB board & sensor group purchase
>
> > Most of this is relevant only to potential Australian
> > purchasers of the DIY-WB PCB & sensor.
> >
> > PCB
> > ---
> > People keeping up with the list would have heard that the
> > Australian group purchase closed a while ago. We couldn't
> > produce a local PCB at as low a cost as the US group buy, so
> > I've decided to get the boards as part of the US group buy too.
> > I also decided to order a few extra boards on the basis that
> > more people would want PCBs after the Oz group buy closed.
> >
> > Board may even be as low as AU$10 (1 off) shipped to your door.
> > But these excess PCBs will be sold strictly on a first come first
> > serve basis.
> >
> > PARTS KIT
> > ---------
> > I've decide to go out on a limb and offer a DIY-WB kit of parts to
> > all local PCB purchasers. It will be at cost + AU$20. It's still DIY,
> > all I'm offering is a means to save people the time they would
> > otherwise each individually spend sourcing these parts from a few
> > different places. I'm certainly not doing this as a money making
> > proposition as my time is more valuable than the hourly rate I'd
> > be notionally making, but I'm doing it to make the point that DIY
> > does not have to mean people are not recompensed for extra work
> > they offer. I can expand on my expressed attitude if anyone is not
> > happy with this brief explanation.
> >
> > Sensor connector may be a problem unless there are a lot of junkyard
> > Hondas MY 93-96 with the same headlight harness connector as the US
> > models (thanks for the info Mark Riley).
> >
> > SENSOR
> > ------
> > As PCBs have not shipped yet, I have not actually finalised the
> > Honda/NTK sensor group purchase (which is currently at qty. 15).
> > All PCB purchasers have been given the opportunity to beat The
> > Parts Bin price of US$117.78 + freight - if we can do better, then
> > I'll go with that, but that looks like the best deal. I've also
> > reminded people that freight will be added and GST may be a factor
> > too. US$117.78 is about AU$225. Landed price will some tens of AU$s
> > higher.
> >
> > ORDERS
> > ------
> > Bottom line is, if you want a DIY-WB PCB, a parts kit, or a sensor
> > then your time is limited.
> >
> > Peter.
> > --------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...
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If you disconnect the sensor, the pin reads 450mV, right? This means the
bias is from the ECM.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

----- Original Message -----
From: "rr" <RRauscher@nni.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 7:06 AM
Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...


>
> The general consensus has been that the ECM applies the bias. I have
> not found any evidence of this. Maybe some ECMs do. My belief is
> that the sensor that generates this voltage.
>
> BobR.
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  3 07:52:13 2001
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Just did some additional checking. The spec sheet for the LM9044
makes no mention of a bias voltage output to the O2 sensor. There
is mention of an open circuit detect that forces the output of the amp
to a 'home' position.

On the '747 ECM there are no additional resistors conected to the
ECM O2 input that would provide a bias voltage. On the test
bench with the O2 + signal open the ECM reports 459mV as the
sensor voltage.

With a Fluke 83 measuring this input to ground the ECM then reports
a 409mV O2 sensor voltage. The Fluke reports a 397 mV level
on the O2 + input (open). This is quite a change for a high input
impedence DVM.

If I get bored later (yea right!) I'll drag the argon in from the garage
and measure the output of a heated O2 sensor at stoich.

While researching the NTK WB sensor I noted that the sensors
reference voltage is 450mV. The UEGO control loop is required
to change the pumping current to maintain that voltage.

Then from the archives is an article by Paul Timmerman
(ptimmerm@mashtun.JPL.NASA.GOV) that goes into detail of
how an O2 sensor operates. A piece from the article:

    "The active mode described in this forum was an ion pump,
    maintaining a fixed potential VII of 0.45 volts.  When you
    are at stoich, the simple cell is calibrated to give 0.45 volts
    when you have one atmoshpere with 12% oxygen near sea
    level." (March, 1998)

So, I'll still say that it is the O2 sensor that generates the 450mV
signal.

BobR.


terryk wrote:

> If you disconnect the sensor, the pin reads 450mV, right? This means the
> bias is from the ECM.
>
> Correct me if I'm wrong.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "rr" <RRauscher@nni.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 7:06 AM
> Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...
>
> >
> > The general consensus has been that the ECM applies the bias. I have
> > not found any evidence of this. Maybe some ECMs do. My belief is
> > that the sensor that generates this voltage.
> >
> > BobR.
> >
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org

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Subject: Re: Oz DIY-WB board & sensor group purchase
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From: "rr" <RRauscher@nni.com>
Subject: Re: Oz DIY-WB board & sensor group purchase
> Wow, the rules have changed. I can handle this. Since I now have a bunch
> of boards the cost will be at cost + $20US. Now this is hardly anything
> considering the amount of time & effort that we put into designing,
testing,
> changing, retesting, prototyping, doing a schematic capture, layout,
dealing
> with the board house, setting up a web site for orders, shipping.
> I'm sure everyone will understand.
> BobR.
> P.S. This is a test, a test of peoples integrity. We now return you to
> your regularly scheduled program.

> Bruce wrote:
> > Hey Bob:
> > I'd like to buy the boards Peter ordered.
> > I'd also like to suggest also canceling the whole PCB group buy.
> > Now, I am Grumpy
> > Grumpy
> > PS. Reply to EFIWhiners.com

> > From: "Peter Gargano" peter@techedge.com.au
> > Subject: Oz DIY-WB board & sensor group purchase
> > > Most of this is relevant only to potential Australian
> > > purchasers of the DIY-WB PCB & sensor.
> > > PCB
> > > People keeping up with the list would have heard that the
> > > Australian group purchase closed a while ago. We couldn't
> > > produce a local PCB at as low a cost as the US group buy, so
> > > I've decided to get the boards as part of the US group buy too.
> > > I also decided to order a few extra boards on the basis that
> > > more people would want PCBs after the Oz group buy closed.
> > >
> > > Board may even be as low as AU$10 (1 off) shipped to your door.
> > > But these excess PCBs will be sold strictly on a first come first
> > > serve basis.
> > >
> > > PARTS KIT
> > > ---------
> > > I've decide to go out on a limb and offer a DIY-WB kit of parts to
> > > all local PCB purchasers. It will be at cost + AU$20. It's still DIY,
> > > all I'm offering is a means to save people the time they would
> > > otherwise each individually spend sourcing these parts from a few
> > > different places. I'm certainly not doing this as a money making
> > > proposition as my time is more valuable than the hourly rate I'd
> > > be notionally making, but I'm doing it to make the point that DIY
> > > does not have to mean people are not recompensed for extra work
> > > they offer. I can expand on my expressed attitude if anyone is not
> > > happy with this brief explanation.
> > >
> > > Sensor connector may be a problem unless there are a lot of junkyard
> > > Hondas MY 93-96 with the same headlight harness connector as the US
> > > models (thanks for the info Mark Riley).
> > >
> > > SENSOR
> > > ------
> > > As PCBs have not shipped yet, I have not actually finalised the
> > > Honda/NTK sensor group purchase (which is currently at qty. 15).
> > > All PCB purchasers have been given the opportunity to beat The
> > > Parts Bin price of US$117.78 + freight - if we can do better, then
> > > I'll go with that, but that looks like the best deal. I've also
> > > reminded people that freight will be added and GST may be a factor
> > > too. US$117.78 is about AU$225. Landed price will some tens of AU$s
> > > higher.
> > >
> > > ORDERS
> > > ------
> > > Bottom line is, if you want a DIY-WB PCB, a parts kit, or a sensor
> > > then your time is limited.
> > >
> > > Peter.
> >
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  3 08:03:31 2001
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From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
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References: <OF5E2F3198.9F9D6FE3-ON4A256ABB.0076AE1C@qantas.com.au> <03d501c133fe$7054cd00$20613942@triad.rr.com> <3B92D739.E5065F3B@techedge.com.au> <011d01c01548$4ddc84a0$ac0ac9d8@bruce> <3B939019.BE72605A@nni.com>
Subject: Re: Oz DIY-WB board & sensor group purchase
Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 11:03:50 -0400
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You forgot the actual price for the sensors used.  Tack on another $10 per
board.   Then depreciation on the ones used for R+D.  Then the cost of
sending sensors out.   Mileage for the 100 mile drive to get the first few.
The interest I could have made just having the money in the bank rather then
floating around in never never land.   The sensors that I never saw again,
from guys that didn't bother to send them back when they gave up on the
deal.  Power for the PCs and lighting in hunting down clues.
  Come on Bob, you were just too nice.
Ah hell just round it up to cost+ $50 a board, plus $10 handling, and then
shipping.
  No one else seems really concerned with anyone keeping their word.
Grumpy




From: "rr" <RRauscher@nni.com>
Subject: Re: Oz DIY-WB board & sensor group purchase
> Wow, the rules have changed. I can handle this. Since I now have a bunch
> of boards the cost will be at cost + $20US. Now this is hardly anything
> considering the amount of time & effort that we put into designing,
testing,
> changing, retesting, prototyping, doing a schematic capture, layout,
dealing
> with the board house, setting up a web site for orders, shipping.
> I'm sure everyone will understand.
> BobR.
> P.S. This is a test, a test of peoples integrity. We now return you to
> your regularly scheduled program.

> Bruce wrote:
> > Hey Bob:
> > I'd like to buy the boards Peter ordered.
> >
> > I'd also like to suggest also canceling the whole PCB group buy.
> >
> > Now, I am Grumpy
> > Grumpy
> >
> > PS. Reply to EFIWhiners.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Peter Gargano" <peter@techedge.com.au>
> > To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> > Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 9:04 PM
> > Subject: Oz DIY-WB board & sensor group purchase
> >
> > > Most of this is relevant only to potential Australian
> > > purchasers of the DIY-WB PCB & sensor.
> > >
> > > PCB
> > > ---
> > > People keeping up with the list would have heard that the
> > > Australian group purchase closed a while ago. We couldn't
> > > produce a local PCB at as low a cost as the US group buy, so
> > > I've decided to get the boards as part of the US group buy too.
> > > I also decided to order a few extra boards on the basis that
> > > more people would want PCBs after the Oz group buy closed.
> > >
> > > Board may even be as low as AU$10 (1 off) shipped to your door.
> > > But these excess PCBs will be sold strictly on a first come first
> > > serve basis.
> > >
> > > PARTS KIT
> > > ---------
> > > I've decide to go out on a limb and offer a DIY-WB kit of parts to
> > > all local PCB purchasers. It will be at cost + AU$20. It's still DIY,
> > > all I'm offering is a means to save people the time they would
> > > otherwise each individually spend sourcing these parts from a few
> > > different places. I'm certainly not doing this as a money making
> > > proposition as my time is more valuable than the hourly rate I'd
> > > be notionally making, but I'm doing it to make the point that DIY
> > > does not have to mean people are not recompensed for extra work
> > > they offer. I can expand on my expressed attitude if anyone is not
> > > happy with this brief explanation.
> > >
> > > Sensor connector may be a problem unless there are a lot of junkyard
> > > Hondas MY 93-96 with the same headlight harness connector as the US
> > > models (thanks for the info Mark Riley).
> > >
> > > SENSOR
> > > ------
> > > As PCBs have not shipped yet, I have not actually finalised the
> > > Honda/NTK sensor group purchase (which is currently at qty. 15).
> > > All PCB purchasers have been given the opportunity to beat The
> > > Parts Bin price of US$117.78 + freight - if we can do better, then
> > > I'll go with that, but that looks like the best deal. I've also
> > > reminded people that freight will be added and GST may be a factor
> > > too. US$117.78 is about AU$225. Landed price will some tens of AU$s
> > > higher.
> > >
> > > ORDERS
> > > ------
> > > Bottom line is, if you want a DIY-WB PCB, a parts kit, or a sensor
> > > then your time is limited.
> > >
> > > Peter.
> >
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  3 08:53:14 2001
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From: "Dan Plaskett" <dynastydan@worldnet.att.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <200109030800.BAA28679@hektor.valesh.com>
Subject: DRAC for 730 to 749 conversion
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 10:52:25 -0500
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In changing from 730 ECM running 1991 Corvette AXCN code to 749 ECM running
SyTy code I've run into a couple of questions.

First, in the Corvette code there are two VSS inputs high and low that run
from the VSS sensor mounted on the transmission.  The Pinout diagram for the
SyTy does not use VSS inputs but instead uses a DRAC signal on pin C6.
After searching and reading the archives my conclusion is that I need to
obtain the DRAC to get the vehicle speed information into the ECM.  I am
running a mechanical speedo so I am not really concerned about the VSS
outputs that normally drive the speedo but it seems that I still need the
DRAC.  Without it the engine would have the problems associated with running
no VSS, potential for stalling, incorrect idle speed when moving, etc.  Is
my analysis correct?

Second, pin E8 in the SyTy code is labeled CAC control.  Is this a cooling
fan control?  I can't seem to find anything else on the SyTy that looks like
the cooling fan relays on pin E8 and D12 of the Corvette code.

TIA

Dan Plaskett
61 Corvette TPI w dual Paxton superchargers



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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  3 09:43:04 2001
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From: "Bob Wooten" <r71chevy@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: DIY-WB... It's alive...
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 09:42:56 -0700
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If I am not mistaken an O2 sensor is a voltage generating device.  this is
why you can "test" them with a meter & not have an ECM connected to them
(the standard zirconium switch types, I am still out in the weeds on the ION
pump, WB type).  My understanding is also that this is part of the reason
why they fail.

BW


>
> The general consensus has been that the ECM applies the bias. I have
> not found any evidence of this. Maybe some ECM's do. My belief is
> that the sensor that generates this voltage.
>
> BobR.
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  3 09:52:07 2001
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From: "Santi Udomkesmalee" <scathontiphat@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Digital Tach
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 16:51:30 +0000
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I'm pretty new to the DIY EFI scene and I though I would start small on my 
first project.  Unfortunatly, I don't even know where to start.  I'm 
interested in building a digital tachometer for a '98 Chevy Cavalier.  Does 
anybody know how I would go about this?  Currently a have very little 
electronic experience, so the more specific you are the more it will help.  
Thanks a lot.

-Santi Udomkesmalee

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  3 11:33:28 2001
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From: "Phil Martin" <phil@muts.freeserve.co.uk>
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Subject: NTK sensor
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2001 19:28:13 +0100
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0056_01C134AE.93189460
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I have some sensors from a Subrau WRC they dont seem to have a =
calibration resistor. What do I need to do without one?=20

Phillip Martin

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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I have&nbsp;some sensors from a Subrau =
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dont seem to have a calibration resistor. What do I need to do without =
one?=20
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Phillip =
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  3 17:52:54 2001
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From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
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Subject: Re:Answer to DRAC for 730 to 749 conversion
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Dan:

The 749 syty code is also used in the Turbo Sunbird.  Magnetic speed sensor
inputs are listed as BB9 and BB10 in the FSM.  Promgrammer (very slow shareware
tuner from syty site) allows changing of road speed instrument panel pulse
divisor (0x00f2), road speed sensor constant (0x00f4), and enable/disable
magnetic speed sensor (bit 6 of 0x0334).

Pin E8 is used for a cooling fan relay in this application.
Shannen

Dan Plaskett wrote:
> 
> In changing from 730 ECM running 1991 Corvette AXCN code to 749 ECM running
> SyTy code I've run into a couple of questions.
> 
> First, in the Corvette code there are two VSS inputs high and low that run
> from the VSS sensor mounted on the transmission.  The Pinout diagram for the
> SyTy does not use VSS inputs but instead uses a DRAC signal on pin C6.
> After searching and reading the archives my conclusion is that I need to
> obtain the DRAC to get the vehicle speed information into the ECM.  I am
> running a mechanical speedo so I am not really concerned about the VSS
> outputs that normally drive the speedo but it seems that I still need the
> DRAC.  Without it the engine would have the problems associated with running
> no VSS, potential for stalling, incorrect idle speed when moving, etc.  Is
> my analysis correct?
> 
> Second, pin E8 in the SyTy code is labeled CAC control.  Is this a cooling
> fan control?  I can't seem to find anything else on the SyTy that looks like
> the cooling fan relays on pin E8 and D12 of the Corvette code.
> 
> TIA
> 
> Dan Plaskett
> 61 Corvette TPI w dual Paxton superchargers
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...
In-Reply-To: <MABBLIHBGGBFGJCJJMLDEEKPCEAA.r71chevy@earthlink.net> from Bob Wooten
 at "Sep 3, 2001 09:42:56 am"
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 09:22:12 +0800 (WST)
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Bob Wooten tapped away at the keyboard with:

> If I am not mistaken an O2 sensor is a voltage generating device.
> this is why you can "test" them with a meter & not have an ECM
> connected to them (the standard zirconium switch types, I am still
> out in the weeds on the ION pump, WB type).  My understanding is
> also that this is part of the reason why they fail.

The O2 sensor (Nernst cell) is a voltage generating device. A
wide-band ion-pump cell consists of two main parts; the ion pump
cell and a (measurement (Nernst) cell; the latter operating on the
same principle as a narrow-band cell, but exposed to ions
delivered/removed by the pump cell, instead of the exhaust gas
itself.

If the pump cell is not operating, (nett pump current zero) then the
measurement will be very similar to a narrow-band cell, but probably
slower.

The whole point of a WB controller is to maintain that magic voltage
level at the measurement cell by varying the pump cell to either
draw O2 ions into the measurement cell, or to draw them out. The
current required to maintain that balance is then an indication of
the O2 concentration and hence lambda.

-- 
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon Sep  3 22:12:49 2001
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Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 01:11:59 -0400
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tsnbrd.bin

1988 turbo sunbird w/ 2.0l engine, manual trans

bithoist id's this file as auwr3607.

Shannen
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To: gmecm@diy-efi.org, diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 21:49:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Oz DIY-WB board & sensor group purchase
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On Mon, 03 Sep 2001 11:05:45 +1000 Peter Gargano <peter@techedge.com.au>
writes:

> I've decide to go out on a limb and offer a DIY-WB kit of parts to
> all local PCB purchasers. It will be at cost + AU$20. It's still 
> DIY,
> all I'm offering is a means to save people the time they would
> otherwise each individually spend sourcing these parts from a few
> different places. I'm certainly not doing this as a money making
> proposition as my time is more valuable than the hourly rate I'd
> be notionally making, but I'm doing it to make the point that DIY
> does not have to mean people are not recompensed for extra work
> they offer. I can expand on my expressed attitude if anyone is not
> happy with this brief explanation.

Umm Peter, (or should I say General Motors), you seem to be arguing for
an odd sort of down-under capitalism? You get the raw goods for free,
from a group of people whose point (let's call it their expressed
attitude, as you have) was intentionally *not* to ask for compensation
for their extra work, effort, or contribution to this project, and now
-you- insist on being compensated for your proposed "extra work". How is
that? If you see your involvement as hired labor, and you expect more
than good will and thanks as your compensation, unlike Bob-Bruce-&-team
who have insisted on none of that, then it seems to me that your
*attitude* being in opposition to theirs, simply means you are out. Plain
and simple. They did it as a charitable project, but now you want to be
compensated? Stand down man, and let someone else who is willing to
continue in the original spirit, take your place. If you want a platform
for your own social attitudes on how these projects should be handled,
then do it with your own projects. You are crapping on this one, just to
try to "make your point"?

If you are man enough to refrain from bootlegging the circuit or boards,
when things don't go your way (I trust you are?), then be man enough to
just opt out, instead of trying to piss the donors off by sticking your
"attitude" in their faces repeatedly, especially under a fake name. If it
was your project and you were one of the major players, you could argue
for your attitude, I suppose. But as far as I can tell, and especially
from your General Motors facade posts, you are just sticking your nose
where it isn't welcome, and making Grumpy even grumpier. He's hard enough
to deal with as it is. Hate to say it, but I'm beginning to see why. Tnx.

Brian (blockhead in learn-mode)

And I'm not building with a PCB, I'm using perfboard instead, so I don't
have any vested interest in the boards at all. Just don't like the
General's agenda.
________________________________________________________________
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Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 05:58:29 2001
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Subject: Re: H2O Injection Pump?
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Bob,

Look in the Northern Tool catalog for these.  They are used for agricultural
spraying of pesticides/herbicides.  I was looking at one of the Flojet's too.

Scott

Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 10:02:14 US/Central
From: chauvin@ghg.net
Subject: Re: H2O Injection Pump?

Bob,

You can look at either Shurflo or Flojet pumps.  The Flojet D7135B7011 is
listed in the brochure they sent me, 100 PSI diaphragm, 12VDC, made out of
"chemical resistant materials."  It's not submersible, though - has 3/8" NPT
connections.  Perhaps a bit of top-cylinder lube added to your water/alky mix
would help lubricate the seals?  Redline sells some, I think, or maybe Marvel
Mystery Oil.  I'd also use distilled water instead of tap.  I don't have any
info offhand on the Shurflo.  The highest pressure one I've seen from them is
60 PSI.  I called them & asked if they had anything that would handle a
water/alcohol mix, but they said none of them could handle any flamables, try
Flojet...

hth
- -Mark
'00 z28 stocker, need $!

> I am looking for a suitable 12V high pressure pump to use with a custom
> water injection system.  I would prefer a submersible one similar to an
> in-tank fuel pump.
> Would a pump designed for a flex-fuel vehicle be able to handle a 50/50
> mix of water and methanol?
> Are there cheaper alternatives to the Aquamist pump?
>
> Thanks for the help,
>
> Bob Wimmer


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 06:36:00 2001
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Santi Udomkesmalee wrote:
> 
> I'm pretty new to the DIY EFI scene and I though I would start small on my
> first project.  Unfortunatly, I don't even know where to start.  I'm
> interested in building a digital tachometer for a '98 Chevy Cavalier.  Does
> anybody know how I would go about this?  Currently a have very little
> electronic experience, so the more specific you are the more it will help.
> Thanks a lot.

Santi,

I've never looked, but I've always assumed that (analog) electronic
tachs are just a frequency-to-voltage converter driving a voltmeter.
There are probably standard parts around that already do this, so
you should even be able to find data sheets and application notes
giving schematics.

Eric

-- 
Eric Fahlgren                            Mechanical Dynamics, Inc
efahl@adams.com                          Ann Arbor, Michigan, USA
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 06:43:02 2001
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     Tue, 04 Sep 2001 15:45:06 +0200
From: "Bert Bakker" <bert.bakker@bakker-it.nl>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Oz DIY-WB board & sensor group purchase
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 15:43:19 +0200
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 | SENSOR
 | ------
 | As PCBs have not shipped yet, I have not actually finalised the
 | Honda/NTK sensor group purchase (which is currently at qty. 15).
 | All PCB purchasers have been given the opportunity to beat The
 | Parts Bin price of US$117.78 + freight - if we can do better, then
 | I'll go with that, but that looks like the best deal.

Hi,

I called a local Honda dealer over here and a sensor costs appr. US$ 325
(equivalent) excl. VAT. So your deal is much better!
Is it possible to join the sensor group purchase from the Netherlands,
Europe? How do we make things happen?

The Honda Civic 1.5 VTEC 92-95 sensor seems to have a different number over
here: 36531-P06-A01 (instead of 36531-P07-003). Is there a difference
between the US and the European car model?

Also, is a datasheet of the sensor available?

Regards,
Bert


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 08:10:19 2001
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Hi Bert,

I saked my local Honda dealer two weeks ago, the sensor is about DM
300+VAT in Germany.
Bernd

-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Bert Bakker [mailto:bert.bakker@bakker-it.nl]
Gesendet: Dienstag, 4. September 2001 15:43
An: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Betreff: RE: Oz DIY-WB board & sensor group purchase



 | SENSOR
 | ------
 | As PCBs have not shipped yet, I have not actually finalised the
 | Honda/NTK sensor group purchase (which is currently at qty. 15).
 | All PCB purchasers have been given the opportunity to beat The
 | Parts Bin price of US$117.78 + freight - if we can do better, then
 | I'll go with that, but that looks like the best deal.

Hi,

I called a local Honda dealer over here and a sensor costs appr. US$ 325
(equivalent) excl. VAT. So your deal is much better!
Is it possible to join the sensor group purchase from the Netherlands,
Europe? How do we make things happen?

The Honda Civic 1.5 VTEC 92-95 sensor seems to have a different number
over
here: 36531-P06-A01 (instead of 36531-P07-003). Is there a difference
between the US and the European car model?

Also, is a datasheet of the sensor available?

Regards,
Bert


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 08:12:13 2001
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Well, due to the efforts of a vocal few, we lost a project.
Couple others are still on going but we'll just have to wait and see.
Just needed to enjoy a freebie.

  I think that the majority, were happy with the deal, but chose to sit it
out like since they got what they wanted, they didn't care enough to support
the non-profit end of it, by saying anything.
To say more would be ranting
Bruce








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Or, How greed screwed things up.....

First, Bruce wanted a DIY_WB.  He did not have the skills to do it
himself.  But what he did have, was the ability to get some other folks
together to get it done.  After numerous expensive set backs, several
years, lots of prodding, poking, and learning, the first prototype was
born.  This came from a lot of effort from among others, Chad Clendening
(did I spell that right?).  Did I mention Bruce spent a lot of his own
money to get sensors, data and so forth?  Remember that.
 
A few built it, and it worked.  At the pow-wow last March, several
others got together and realized that some of the basic prototype
circuitry could be improved upon.  With that task done, it was again
tried, and it worked.  Boards were designed, built and paid for behind
the scenes by a loyal few.  By this time, a lot of time, energy, dollars
and work had been invested by a relatively small amount of dedicated
folks.

At last, a true DIY_WB was about ready for the masses.  All the folks
who put all that time, money, effort and dedication into the project was
to ask that no one try to make any money off the deal. Pretty simple,
huh?  Everybody continue in the spirit that has been laid down.  Pass it
on for free.

Then we get someone a long the line who says something like, "I will
handle parts, but I need 20 dollars a piece to do it".  Go back and read
it, it was "cost plus".  Definitely not the spirit that originally got
the job done.  Then to add insult to injury, we had several call the
originator mean spirited for calling him on it, with the tone in the
message of "I WANT MINE!".  Well, you got it.  Hurl your invectives at
the one who wanted to make money off other peoples efforts, not the one
who brought it to you.


Scot Sealander
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 08:54:59 2001
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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Future Projects
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 08:58:59 -0700
Organization: Automation Artisans Inc.
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Hi Bruce,

I'm a bit puzzled here.  I've been following the ranting but am
confused.  I did ask for a link to the schematic of the WBO2 project but
no one responded.  Is it that 'secret'?  One individual mentioned that
the WBO2 he was doing was on perfboard.  I understand someone did a
circuit board and did a bulk purchase of boards. How has this project
been lost?

So many questions....   What are the answers?

Regards,

John Dammeyer


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org] On
Behalf Of Bruce
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 8:12 AM
To: gmecm@diy-efi.org; diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Future Projects



Well, due to the efforts of a vocal few, we lost a project. Couple
others are still on going but we'll just have to wait and see. Just
needed to enjoy a freebie.

  I think that the majority, were happy with the deal, but chose to sit
it out like since they got what they wanted, they didn't care enough to
support the non-profit end of it, by saying anything. To say more would
be ranting Bruce








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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 09:02:02 2001
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From: "James Melton" <oldmadog@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Future Projects
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I don't know the details of the problem, and am not sure that I want to.  I 
guess that I am one of the ones that could have done something to help and 
have been just content to use the WB project.
I just wanted to say how grateful I am to those of you who give selfless 
service to others on the net.  I will try to be more helpful in the future 
in some way. I dont know much about cars yet, but I do know a lot about 
computers and software.
Don't let a few problems discourage you.   A lot of things and people are 
not the problem, just a few that are visible.

thanks again.

jim melton


>From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
>Reply-To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>To: <gmecm@diy-efi.org>, <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
>Subject: Future Projects
>Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 11:12:08 -0400
>
>
>Well, due to the efforts of a vocal few, we lost a project.
>Couple others are still on going but we'll just have to wait and see.
>Just needed to enjoy a freebie.
>
>   I think that the majority, were happy with the deal, but chose to sit it
>out like since they got what they wanted, they didn't care enough to 
>support
>the non-profit end of it, by saying anything.
>To say more would be ranting
>Bruce
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 09:59:46 2001
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Can someone please contact me with information on the group buy?? I heard
US is over... is there any other way i can get in? thanks.



Nick Starai
Network Administrator
ItsYourDomain.com
1005 W. Wise Road
Schaumburg, IL  60193
(847) 895-4301 / Tel - (847) 895-4123 / Fax                                                                                     
http://www.itsyourdomain.com                                                                                                        
true@itsyourdomain.com                                                                                                            

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 10:05:41 2001
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Subject: Re: What went wrong with the Aussie WB Buy?
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On Tue, 04 Sep 2001 11:45:08 -0400 Scot Sealander
<Sealand@clarityconnect.com> writes:
> Or, How greed screwed things up.....

>Definitely not the spirit that originally got
> the job done.  Then to add insult to injury, we had several call 
> the
> originator mean spirited for calling him on it, with the tone in 
> the
> message of "I WANT MINE!".  Well, you got it

Deja vu all over again. Don't you guys read the archives?? You know the
saying, if you can't learn from history, you are doomed to repeat it.

One good thing. By raising the issue to a ripe stink, it is more likely
that word will get out, "if you don't want to be involved in the project
as purely charitable, then butt out". No way to guarantee that, but I
personally think it's still worth the effort to get the idea across. Very
nice idea. Even better than gnu.

Reminds me of that joke, where someone has to ask, "What about NO don't
you understand?". Maybe some people really just don't get the "no" part.
Is that possible? Even dogs and little children understand "no". :)

Brian
________________________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 10:07:02 2001
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I understand there has been some confusion about an ad I posted several days 
ago requesting an EFI software expert for my company, Injection Logic.  
Apparently there has been some trouble with my internet provider, which will 
hopefully be resolved this week.  I appologize if anyone has had mail returned 
to them as a result of these difficulties.  If trouble does persist, please 
feel free to contact me at my personal email address: al@cardozo.org for 
correspondence.  Information on our company may be found at 
www.injectionlogic.com.  Thank you.


      Best wishes,

      Al Lipper,
      President, Injection Logic

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 10:24:50 2001
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Subject: Re: What went wrong with the Aussie WB Buy?
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 12:24:44 -0500
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Just because someone wants to profit doesn't mean that someone else can't
perform the service.  Peter wants to be compensated for his time...so?  Let
him advertise his services ELSEWHERE and see if someone else wants to step
up to the plate.  If no one else wants to perform the service and Peter is
the low bidder then let him have at it!

I don't mind that Peter is performing the service.  I do mind that he is
advertising on this group which is definitely against the rules, as I
understand them.  I don't know what the exchange rate is but $5 US to fill
out the paperwork, order, count and etc. is really quite reasonable.  That's
not the point.  I feel he must ADVERTISE his services elsewhere.

Just like Al Lipper who is constantly trying to get free (for all practical
purposes) consulting these issues should be discussed elsewhere.  The only
way to solve the problem is to ignore them.

Actually, I would hope that one and only one person would reply to the
offer.  I bet there would be no work done.

To all that  would profit from this list...there are about 300 members.
Many of these 300 have every tool that could be imagined for this type work.
Many would do it themselves if it took months and months of dedicated
effort.  Many would do nothing, no matter the gain.  Many are in other
countries.  And so forth and so on.  This is not a place to market any
product.  If all the correspondents were to purchase a product with a $5
profit it would be a total of $1,500.

So both sides, get real!

1)  There is no money to be made on this list - probably time won't be paid.

2) No one is offering services on this list for a PROFIT.

I did artwork for a version of the WB for free and offered it, along with
schematic...etc.  No control, no strings etc.

Regarding "What went wrong with the Aussie WB Buy?" nothing yet.  It's up to
the Aussies.  All the Aussies.

dh




----- Original Message -----
From: "Scot Sealander" <Sealand@clarityconnect.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>; "gmecm" <gmecm@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 10:45 AM
Subject: What went wrong with the Aussie WB Buy?


> Or, How greed screwed things up.....
>
> First, Bruce wanted a DIY_WB.  He did not have the skills to do it
> himself.  But what he did have, was the ability to get some other folks
> together to get it done.  After numerous expensive set backs, several
> years, lots of prodding, poking, and learning, the first prototype was
> born.  This came from a lot of effort from among others, Chad Clendening
> (did I spell that right?).  Did I mention Bruce spent a lot of his own
> money to get sensors, data and so forth?  Remember that.
>
> A few built it, and it worked.  At the pow-wow last March, several
> others got together and realized that some of the basic prototype
> circuitry could be improved upon.  With that task done, it was again
> tried, and it worked.  Boards were designed, built and paid for behind
> the scenes by a loyal few.  By this time, a lot of time, energy, dollars
> and work had been invested by a relatively small amount of dedicated
> folks.
>
> At last, a true DIY_WB was about ready for the masses.  All the folks
> who put all that time, money, effort and dedication into the project was
> to ask that no one try to make any money off the deal. Pretty simple,
> huh?  Everybody continue in the spirit that has been laid down.  Pass it
> on for free.
>
> Then we get someone a long the line who says something like, "I will
> handle parts, but I need 20 dollars a piece to do it".  Go back and read
> it, it was "cost plus".  Definitely not the spirit that originally got
> the job done.  Then to add insult to injury, we had several call the
> originator mean spirited for calling him on it, with the tone in the
> message of "I WANT MINE!".  Well, you got it.  Hurl your invectives at
> the one who wanted to make money off other peoples efforts, not the one
> who brought it to you.
>
>
> Scot Sealander
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 10:44:47 2001
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	I Apologize for asking about the US groupbuy..i guess i sound like
a broken record. I didn't see all the latest messages/issues. I have heard
about the list years ago and have been following it slightly untill the
newest release when i rejoined. I'm willing to help with whatever I can to
help this project continue. What's needed? WE need this...

Nick Starai
Network Administrator
ItsYourDomain.com
1005 W. Wise Road
Schaumburg, IL  60193
(847) 895-4301 / Tel - (847) 895-4123 / Fax                                                                                     
http://www.itsyourdomain.com                                                                                                        
true@itsyourdomain.com                                                                                                            

"The Wholesale Registrar"           

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 10:56:42 2001
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To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org, gmecm@diy-efi.org
Subject: you just don't get it RE: What went wrong with the Aussie WB Buy?
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 13:53:43 -0400 
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Here is the big picture:

The guys that did all of the work are not making a profit, and if they
insist that this continue to be the spirit of this project, then pay them
the respect to honor what they desire.

It is a slap in the face to all that did the work to watch someone step up
as the project manager and put a couple bucks in their pocket just because
they want to manage a project that was already created.

If you want to be the coordinator over seas, then honor what was set as the
rules of the game.  If you want to make a profit, they your contribution
here is not welcome.

This is not about a few bucks, it all about Principle.

For the guys that did all of the work: THANKSa  

Steve F

 

-----Original Message-----
From: David Hunt [mailto:dhunt16@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 1:25 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org; gmecm
Subject: Re: What went wrong with the Aussie WB Buy?


Just because someone wants to profit doesn't mean that someone else can't
perform the service.  Peter wants to be compensated for his time...so?  Let
him advertise his services ELSEWHERE and see if someone else wants to step
up to the plate.  If no one else wants to perform the service and Peter is
the low bidder then let him have at it!

I don't mind that Peter is performing the service.  I do mind that he is
advertising on this group which is definitely against the rules, as I
understand them.  I don't know what the exchange rate is but $5 US to fill
out the paperwork, order, count and etc. is really quite reasonable.  That's
not the point.  I feel he must ADVERTISE his services elsewhere.

Just like Al Lipper who is constantly trying to get free (for all practical
purposes) consulting these issues should be discussed elsewhere.  The only
way to solve the problem is to ignore them.

Actually, I would hope that one and only one person would reply to the
offer.  I bet there would be no work done.

To all that  would profit from this list...there are about 300 members.
Many of these 300 have every tool that could be imagined for this type work.
Many would do it themselves if it took months and months of dedicated
effort.  Many would do nothing, no matter the gain.  Many are in other
countries.  And so forth and so on.  This is not a place to market any
product.  If all the correspondents were to purchase a product with a $5
profit it would be a total of $1,500.

So both sides, get real!

1)  There is no money to be made on this list - probably time won't be paid.

2) No one is offering services on this list for a PROFIT.

I did artwork for a version of the WB for free and offered it, along with
schematic...etc.  No control, no strings etc.

Regarding "What went wrong with the Aussie WB Buy?" nothing yet.  It's up to
the Aussies.  All the Aussies.

dh




----- Original Message -----
From: "Scot Sealander" <Sealand@clarityconnect.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>; "gmecm" <gmecm@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 10:45 AM
Subject: What went wrong with the Aussie WB Buy?


> Or, How greed screwed things up.....
>
> First, Bruce wanted a DIY_WB.  He did not have the skills to do it
> himself.  But what he did have, was the ability to get some other folks
> together to get it done.  After numerous expensive set backs, several
> years, lots of prodding, poking, and learning, the first prototype was
> born.  This came from a lot of effort from among others, Chad Clendening
> (did I spell that right?).  Did I mention Bruce spent a lot of his own
> money to get sensors, data and so forth?  Remember that.
>
> A few built it, and it worked.  At the pow-wow last March, several
> others got together and realized that some of the basic prototype
> circuitry could be improved upon.  With that task done, it was again
> tried, and it worked.  Boards were designed, built and paid for behind
> the scenes by a loyal few.  By this time, a lot of time, energy, dollars
> and work had been invested by a relatively small amount of dedicated
> folks.
>
> At last, a true DIY_WB was about ready for the masses.  All the folks
> who put all that time, money, effort and dedication into the project was
> to ask that no one try to make any money off the deal. Pretty simple,
> huh?  Everybody continue in the spirit that has been laid down.  Pass it
> on for free.
>
> Then we get someone a long the line who says something like, "I will
> handle parts, but I need 20 dollars a piece to do it".  Go back and read
> it, it was "cost plus".  Definitely not the spirit that originally got
> the job done.  Then to add insult to injury, we had several call the
> originator mean spirited for calling him on it, with the tone in the
> message of "I WANT MINE!".  Well, you got it.  Hurl your invectives at
> the one who wanted to make money off other peoples efforts, not the one
> who brought it to you.
>
>
> Scot Sealander
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 10:58:37 2001
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From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <3B94F704.89F6FE65@clarityconnect.com> <011c01c13566$80756c80$0200a8c0@cc693406a>
Subject: Re: What went wrong with the Aussie WB Buy?
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 13:59:03 -0400
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Did you read the user's agreement?.
That set the conditions, your opinon about them is meaningless.
People either say, yes or no.
It's just that simple.

Pity some folks still can't grasp that
Bruce




----- Original Message -----
From: "David Hunt" <dhunt16@yahoo.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>; "gmecm" <gmecm@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: What went wrong with the Aussie WB Buy?


> Just because someone wants to profit doesn't mean that someone else can't
> perform the service.  Peter wants to be compensated for his time...so?
Let
> him advertise his services ELSEWHERE and see if someone else wants to step
> up to the plate.  If no one else wants to perform the service and Peter is
> the low bidder then let him have at it!
>
> I don't mind that Peter is performing the service.  I do mind that he is
> advertising on this group which is definitely against the rules, as I
> understand them.  I don't know what the exchange rate is but $5 US to fill
> out the paperwork, order, count and etc. is really quite reasonable.
That's
> not the point.  I feel he must ADVERTISE his services elsewhere.
>
> Just like Al Lipper who is constantly trying to get free (for all
practical
> purposes) consulting these issues should be discussed elsewhere.  The only
> way to solve the problem is to ignore them.
>
> Actually, I would hope that one and only one person would reply to the
> offer.  I bet there would be no work done.
>
> To all that  would profit from this list...there are about 300 members.
> Many of these 300 have every tool that could be imagined for this type
work.
> Many would do it themselves if it took months and months of dedicated
> effort.  Many would do nothing, no matter the gain.  Many are in other
> countries.  And so forth and so on.  This is not a place to market any
> product.  If all the correspondents were to purchase a product with a $5
> profit it would be a total of $1,500.
>
> So both sides, get real!
>
> 1)  There is no money to be made on this list - probably time won't be
paid.
>
> 2) No one is offering services on this list for a PROFIT.
>
> I did artwork for a version of the WB for free and offered it, along with
> schematic...etc.  No control, no strings etc.
>
> Regarding "What went wrong with the Aussie WB Buy?" nothing yet.  It's up
to
> the Aussies.  All the Aussies.
>
> dh
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scot Sealander" <Sealand@clarityconnect.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>; "gmecm" <gmecm@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 10:45 AM
> Subject: What went wrong with the Aussie WB Buy?
>
>
> > Or, How greed screwed things up.....
> >
> > First, Bruce wanted a DIY_WB.  He did not have the skills to do it
> > himself.  But what he did have, was the ability to get some other folks
> > together to get it done.  After numerous expensive set backs, several
> > years, lots of prodding, poking, and learning, the first prototype was
> > born.  This came from a lot of effort from among others, Chad Clendening
> > (did I spell that right?).  Did I mention Bruce spent a lot of his own
> > money to get sensors, data and so forth?  Remember that.
> >
> > A few built it, and it worked.  At the pow-wow last March, several
> > others got together and realized that some of the basic prototype
> > circuitry could be improved upon.  With that task done, it was again
> > tried, and it worked.  Boards were designed, built and paid for behind
> > the scenes by a loyal few.  By this time, a lot of time, energy, dollars
> > and work had been invested by a relatively small amount of dedicated
> > folks.
> >
> > At last, a true DIY_WB was about ready for the masses.  All the folks
> > who put all that time, money, effort and dedication into the project was
> > to ask that no one try to make any money off the deal. Pretty simple,
> > huh?  Everybody continue in the spirit that has been laid down.  Pass it
> > on for free.
> >
> > Then we get someone a long the line who says something like, "I will
> > handle parts, but I need 20 dollars a piece to do it".  Go back and read
> > it, it was "cost plus".  Definitely not the spirit that originally got
> > the job done.  Then to add insult to injury, we had several call the
> > originator mean spirited for calling him on it, with the tone in the
> > message of "I WANT MINE!".  Well, you got it.  Hurl your invectives at
> > the one who wanted to make money off other peoples efforts, not the one
> > who brought it to you.
> >
> >
> > Scot Sealander
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 11:00:49 2001
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From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
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References: <BD1C4EE97EE5D4119AE50008C791884402BF7812@hqbedex1.corp.bam.com>
Subject: Re: you just don't get it RE: What went wrong with the Aussie WB Buy?
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 14:01:18 -0400
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Well put
Bruce




From: <Steve.Flanagan@VerizonWireless.com>
Subject: you just don't get it RE: What went wrong with the Aussie WB Buy?
> Here is the big picture:
> The guys that did all of the work are not making a profit, and if they
> insist that this continue to be the spirit of this project, then pay them
> the respect to honor what they desire.
> It is a slap in the face to all that did the work to watch someone step up
> as the project manager and put a couple bucks in their pocket just because
> they want to manage a project that was already created.
> If you want to be the coordinator over seas, then honor what was set as
the
> rules of the game.  If you want to make a profit, they your contribution
> here is not welcome.
> This is not about a few bucks, it all about Principle.
> For the guys that did all of the work: THANKSa
> Steve F


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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 11:36:30 2001
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From: "Raymond Brantley" <raymond@iwantperformance.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Future Projects
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 13:39:43 -0500
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Bruce I think it stinks that we lost a project, man I don't even want to
know what it was since it was probably something cool. I assume we lost it
because of the profiteers who jumped in and tried to covertly make money off
the current one..... I guess there's always someone who has to pee in the
pool.

I should have posted a big thank you when the DIY-WB became available
(honestly THANK YOU TO ALL INVOLVED !!) actually a few along the way would
have been more appropriate !! But I didn't want you guys thinking I was
patronizing you and being nice since the DIY-WB was out. I also didn't think
anybody wanted to hear my disapproval or approval for that matter of someone
else's actions.

Anyway too little too late I guess.....


Thank you,
Raymond Brantley



-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Bruce
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 10:12 AM
To: gmecm@diy-efi.org; diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Future Projects



Well, due to the efforts of a vocal few, we lost a project.
Couple others are still on going but we'll just have to wait and see.
Just needed to enjoy a freebie.

  I think that the majority, were happy with the deal, but chose to sit it
out like since they got what they wanted, they didn't care enough to support
the non-profit end of it, by saying anything.
To say more would be ranting
Bruce








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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 11:43:39 2001
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To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
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Subject: Re: Future Projects
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Your right you really don't want to know.
I had my car rigged for starting on the testing.
Yes, some folks have enough of a passion to do things for free, and all they
ask is that it stays non-profit.
Let me add commercial free.
Bruce



From: "Raymond Brantley" <raymond@iwantperformance.net>
Subject: RE: Future Projects
> Bruce I think it stinks that we lost a project, man I don't even want to
> know what it was since it was probably something cool. I assume we lost it
> because of the profiteers who jumped in and tried to covertly make money
off
> the current one..... I guess there's always someone who has to pee in the
> pool.
>
> I should have posted a big thank you when the DIY-WB became available
> (honestly THANK YOU TO ALL INVOLVED !!) actually a few along the way would
> have been more appropriate !! But I didn't want you guys thinking I was
> patronizing you and being nice since the DIY-WB was out. I also didn't
think
> anybody wanted to hear my disapproval or approval for that matter of
someone
> else's actions.
>
> Anyway too little too late I guess.....
>
>
> Thank you,
> Raymond Brantley
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of Bruce
> Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 10:12 AM
> To: gmecm@diy-efi.org; diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Future Projects
>
>
>
> Well, due to the efforts of a vocal few, we lost a project.
> Couple others are still on going but we'll just have to wait and see.
> Just needed to enjoy a freebie.
>
>   I think that the majority, were happy with the deal, but chose to sit it
> out like since they got what they wanted, they didn't care enough to
support
> the non-profit end of it, by saying anything.
> To say more would be ranting
> Bruce
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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>
>

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Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 11:57:39 -0700
Subject: Re: What went wrong with the Aussie WB Buy?
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On Mon, 4 Sep 2000 13:59:03 -0400 "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net> writes:
> 
> Did you read the user's agreement?.
> That set the conditions, your opinon about them is meaningless.
> People either say, yes or no.
> It's just that simple.
> 
> Pity some folks still can't grasp that
> Bruce

Had some private email with one person who tried to play lawyer and
weasel around what you have already written up in the EULA (end-user
license agreement). I won't mention that person's name, but his initials
are GM. :)

In light of recent events, you might want to consider adding a few more
sentences to the original user's agreement, giving examples of what
should be obvious. I know you can't plug every little wormhole that
someone might try to wriggle thru, but lots of people think that a
"gnu"-style agreement (which *does* allow for post-facto "value-added"
commercialization) is the only form of "freeware" agreement. Might be
nice to have a little more thorough explanation, since this "perpetual
charitable project" idea is different from that, and (apparently) so hard
to understand for some people. Just a suggestion.

BTW, I really appreciate the time (and blows) you guys have taken to
defend this approach. It has really helped me personally to get clarified
in my own mind what would be satisfactory for me personally, if I ever
had a project I wanted to bequeath to the world. Not sure I would bother,
though. What a *pain*!

Brian
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 12:51:32 2001
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From: Stephen Andersen <SAndersen@advan-tek.com>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Newbie Thanks was RE: Future Projects
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 15:42:23 -0400 
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Bruce et al,

As a newbie to the group, allow me to chime in a quick note
of thanks and appreciation.  I found this list due to embarking
on a project to fit a positive displacement supercharger on 
my BMW.  I have been looking for solutions for tuning the car
and for fuel and timing control modifications to the stock
Bosch ECU and came here to see if I could learn something.

The DIY-WB for me will be an enabler for my project to at least
provide me with a tool to tune the car properly (doesn't mean I 
will be able to do it though!!!).  The cost of commercial units
was looking to trash my project due to the significant cost
escalation.

I have asked a question or two here to fully understand and 
appreciate the spirit of the DIY aspect of this group, and I
think it is perfectly clear what you are intending to do.

It still amazes me that you guys have been willing to invest the 
time and money into this for everyone else's benefit.

I applaud your efforts (for whatever that is worth) and hope
that perhaps I can contribute to the group at some point.

My only contribution now is that I am going to help a friend
and co-worker assemble a DIY-WB board along with me so that he
can learn a bit too.  Hopefully we'll be able to get at least
one of them to work...

Thanks Again!!

Steve

Stephen M. Andersen, P.E.                              (302) 326-6405
Technical Director                                    FAX  (302) 326-6401
AdvanTek International, LLC                     Cell   (302) 547-9842
56 Read's Way                               andersen@Advan-Tek.com
New Castle, DE 19720


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of Raymond Brantley
> Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 2:40 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: RE: Future Projects
> 
> 
> Bruce I think it stinks that we lost a project, man I don't 
> even want to
> know what it was since it was probably something cool. I 
> assume we lost it
> because of the profiteers who jumped in and tried to covertly 
> make money off
> the current one..... I guess there's always someone who has 
> to pee in the
> pool.
> 
> I should have posted a big thank you when the DIY-WB became available
> (honestly THANK YOU TO ALL INVOLVED !!) actually a few along 
> the way would
> have been more appropriate !! But I didn't want you guys 
> thinking I was
> patronizing you and being nice since the DIY-WB was out. I 
> also didn't think
> anybody wanted to hear my disapproval or approval for that 
> matter of someone
> else's actions.
> 
> Anyway too little too late I guess.....
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> Raymond Brantley
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of Bruce
> Sent: Monday, September 04, 2000 10:12 AM
> To: gmecm@diy-efi.org; diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Future Projects
> 
> 
> 
> Well, due to the efforts of a vocal few, we lost a project.
> Couple others are still on going but we'll just have to wait and see.
> Just needed to enjoy a freebie.
> 
>   I think that the majority, were happy with the deal, but 
> chose to sit it
> out like since they got what they wanted, they didn't care 
> enough to support
> the non-profit end of it, by saying anything.
> To say more would be ranting
> Bruce
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 13:05:18 2001
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Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 16:04:17 -0400
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
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David Hunt wrote:

> I don't know what the exchange rate is but $5 US to fill
> out the paperwork, order, count and etc. is really quite reasonable.


Please be sure to forward the $5 US to the people who did the original design
and developement work on the WB.  They are not asking for money and have
specifically said "no money is due."  But if you absolutely feel that you can
pay $5 above and beyond the cost of the project parts, please consider
supporting the originators of the DIY-WB

 
 Though I do believe a man should not be required to give his time for free, I
do not accept the position that someone can volunteer to provide a service which
was not specifically asked of him, then ask to make a profit on that service,
without sending any portion of the profit to the originators of the product he's
distributing.  

In addition, the user's agreement specifically set forth with the WB was that it
be "not for profit."  That means not for thousands of dollars profit, not for
hundreds of dollars profit, and not for a penny.  The terms and conditions were
given in the beginning.  If they could not be adhered to, well, the offer for
the group buy should never have been made.  This is not about changing the rules
after the fact.

If you cannot follow the laws of the road, you do not get a driver's license.  
If you cannot adhere to the terms of a contract, you cannot keep a job.
If you cannot stick to the terms of a mortgage, you cannot have a home.
Why is it any different with the terms of the DIY-WB?

If you would like a WBO2, and you feel that paying extra is not a problem,
contact the people responsible for the US buy and work out a deal to have parts
shipped to you.  Do not be afraid to offer extra money for their time and
effort, as they may need it.  I'm sure you'll find they are at least as
reasonable as Peter, and they are definitely due a few dollars already.

But keep in mind that this issue is only out in the public eye to create a
stir.  This is the DIY-EFI equivalent of the National Enquirer.  The people who
are really in the business of stealing projects will be quietly offering a
product for sale while the list is busy screaming over this little publicity
stunt.

Shannen
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 13:08:40 2001
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Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2001 13:01:28 -0800
From: Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
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Dan Plaskett wrote:
> 
> In changing from 730 ECM running 1991 Corvette AXCN code to 749 ECM running
> SyTy code I've run into a couple of questions.
> 
> First, in the Corvette code there are two VSS inputs high and low that run
> from the VSS sensor mounted on the transmission.  The Pinout diagram for the
> SyTy does not use VSS inputs but instead uses a DRAC signal on pin C6.
> After searching and reading the archives my conclusion is that I need to
> obtain the DRAC to get the vehicle speed information into the ECM.  I am
> running a mechanical speedo so I am not really concerned about the VSS
> outputs that normally drive the speedo but it seems that I still need the
> DRAC.

No, you don't need a DRAC (assuming you have everything working with the
730.)  All you need to do is flip the bit in the SyTy PROM image that
tells it to use the "high and low" VSS inputs instead.  You might also
have to change a few calibration constants that the ECM uses to convert
the VSS inputs to MPH.

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 13:08:43 2001
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References: <000401c133f5$8b519bf0$0100a8c0@telus.net> <3B92CB84.D7EDF98E@nni.com> <001f01c134ab$e70faa20$6969bfce@home> <3B938E7A.F6A43BC2@nni.com> <018601c13482$e1fc84a0$0400a8c0@ros54684kel1> <3B9399E5.3D7F83D2@nni.com>
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rr wrote:
> 
> The spec sheet for the LM9044
> makes no mention of a bias voltage output to the O2 sensor.

The data sheet I have does mention a bias.  Check the spec called
"Non-Inverting Input Bias Current".  The typical value is +/- 380
nanoAmps.  (In other units, 0.00000038 amps.)

> With a Fluke 83 measuring this input to ground the ECM then reports
> a 409mV O2 sensor voltage. The Fluke reports a 397 mV level
> on the O2 + input (open). This is quite a change for a high input
> impedence DVM.

Measure with the meter connected between the + input and the ECMs 5 volt
supply.  Or measure between the + input and the + end of a D cell (or C,
or AA, or ...) with the negative end of the cell jumpered to ECM ground.

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 14:52:28 2001
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Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 14:16:20 -0500
From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
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I don't know how much experience is "little", but I think that a digital
tach will require some kind of micro controller to interface to the
display (LCD?).  That means you'll have to do a little programming, and
you'll have to have some equipment to write the program into the
microcontroller.  This'll mean some money up front for software and
hardware, and some time learning to program (unless you already have the
programming experience).  I've used PIC microcontrollers in the past
(www.microchip.com), available from digikey.  I've heard good things
about Atmel and will probably try one in whatever my next project is.  

With that said, the way I'd proceed is to take the tach signal through
an opto-isolator and into your microcontroller.  Pick a microcontroller
that has PWM hardware built into it, it'll make it easier to measure the
time between pulses.  Manipulate the units to get the time measured into
rpm, and then display that onto the LCD.  LCDs can be had cheaply from a
lot of surplus electronics, start at www.eio.com.  If you get a 2 or 4
line one then you'll have space to display other info in the future. 
The interface to them is dirt simple, I've got some PIC code that I can
send you for driving them if you want.


--steve

Santi Udomkesmalee wrote:
> 
> I'm pretty new to the DIY EFI scene and I though I would start small on my
> first project.  Unfortunatly, I don't even know where to start.  I'm
> interested in building a digital tachometer for a '98 Chevy Cavalier.  Does
> anybody know how I would go about this?  Currently a have very little
> electronic experience, so the more specific you are the more it will help.
> Thanks a lot.
> 
> -Santi Udomkesmalee


-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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Re: What went wrong with the Aussie WB Buy?

Shannen Durphey wrote:
> 
> But keep in mind ...  The people who
> are really in the business of stealing projects will be quietly offering a
> product for sale while the list is busy screaming over this little publicity
> stunt.

Truer words were never spoken, Shannen.

Lets get one thing straight, and I won't be spending any more DIY bandwidth
on it. Shannen's edited text above epitomizes the true DIY problem. It's not
a petty squabble over whether you pay someone to solder up your kit, or
if you, IMHO, quite reasonably charge someone for the time you'd be otherwise
spending with your children, your dog, or the next DIY project - it's about
making things public so the DIYers can do just that, DIY.

And yes, I stand accused, and am guilty of stirring the coals over this
issue. I certainly "get it", but don't agree that there's a clear cut line
somewhere where you can pay a PCB manufacturer to make the boards, or you
can pay UPS to deliver the parts, but you can't pay a fellow list member
for helping them out at such a basic level like doing a solder job or
organising a group parts kit. It's just not possible to be so prescriptive
in life and I reject that attitude.

I totally accept and support, and actively participate in, the spirit of
DIY, and it really gets up my (not insubstantial) nose when people who
know better question my ethics and morals. If the group is to heal itself
from the pre-existing malaise that this episode has highlighted, then there
has to be a fostering of an environment where there is respect for what
people accomplish and bring to the group.

I agree that the best way to design a "product" is often with a closed
group of a few dedicated individuals who work long hours with a sense of
purpose that achieving an elusive goal brings. Their reward can never
be measured in dollar terms and to attempt to do so belittles them. I
also believe the same design can be done by sharing all the information
openly, freely and without favour.

I've probably said enough already, but I'll make the last point that I
don't hold any grudges against anyone who has, and will, disagree with
my stance on this - I'm happy to agree to disagree, and I'd like to get
back to the true DIY spirit where people actually post information (perhaps
in a sanitised form) that they have gleaned from the web, auto manufacturers,
or toiled long nights over.  Reading some of the early archives can be quite
inspirational in that respect.

Peter.

PS. I don't write this with the intent of fostering a continued flame
war. Think twice, and then think again before hitting the reply key.
I'm happy ONLY to reply off-list to any off-list flames.
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 16:00:00 2001
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Subject: Re: What went wrong with the Aussie WB Buy?
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On Tue, 04 Sep 2001 16:04:17 -0400 Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
writes:

> But keep in mind that this issue is only out in the public eye to 
> create a
> stir.  This is the DIY-EFI equivalent of the National Enquirer.  The 
> people who
> are really in the business of stealing projects will be quietly 
> offering a
> product for sale while the list is busy screaming over this little 
> publicity
> stunt.

Yes, very likely. Even the General hinted at that. Here's another quote
from him:

>This talk about commercial use of information on DIY
>is just silly. Nobody using any information for any type of serious
commercial
>gain will be letting the list know any time soon.

Hmm, I hope that wasn't an admission. But I would think twice, if I were
the General or his mates, about what it's like to live as a *marked man*.
Not a fun thought. Not only is history a harsh mistress, but I've heard
she has a long memory too. :)

Brian
________________________________________________________________
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All opamps have an input bias current. The question has been
"is the O2 sensor input biased to 450mV, on purpose?" In
other words does the sensor have a 450mV bias output from
the ECM to the O2 sensor?

I have not found any evidence that it does. I'm thinking that
what folks are seeing is the 'home' position being read by the
ECMs ADC & reported as 450mV. This is with the sensor
disconnected, hence a bias must be being applied to the sensor.

BobR.


Ludis Langens wrote:

> rr wrote:
> >
> > The spec sheet for the LM9044
> > makes no mention of a bias voltage output to the O2 sensor.
>
> The data sheet I have does mention a bias.  Check the spec called
> "Non-Inverting Input Bias Current".  The typical value is +/- 380
> nanoAmps.  (In other units, 0.00000038 amps.)
>
> > With a Fluke 83 measuring this input to ground the ECM then reports
> > a 409mV O2 sensor voltage. The Fluke reports a 397 mV level
> > on the O2 + input (open). This is quite a change for a high input
> > impedence DVM.
>
> Measure with the meter connected between the + input and the ECMs 5 volt
> supply.  Or measure between the + input and the + end of a D cell (or C,
> or AA, or ...) with the negative end of the cell jumpered to ECM ground.
>
> --
> Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
> Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 16:38:44 2001
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If anybody is interested, I will do a parts kit.  I don't want to build a
DIY-WB kit.  If someone can tell me what electronic parts are needed, I will
take orders.  I will buy the parts from whoever has them.  I will package
all the bits into zip-loc bags at my cost and then ship the kits out via UPS
or FEDEX at cost.  In essence, you pay what I pay.  Just think of me as a
little monkey that sorts parts, packages, and ships them out.  My
compensation is the air I breathe.  I haven't the foggiest idea how a WB
meter works.  I haven't the foggiest idea how to design one, but I can place
an order, and I can handle shipping.

jay



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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 16:58:50 2001
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Subject: RE: What went wrong with the Aussie WB Buy?
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 08:00:51 +0800
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So am I right to say that after all this, the Aussie WB Buy is now off the
cards if we were buying the PCB's through Peter G????

I hope not....

Jeff

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Brian L Massey
Sent: Wednesday, 5 September 2001 7:00 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: What went wrong with the Aussie WB Buy?



On Tue, 04 Sep 2001 16:04:17 -0400 Shannen Durphey <shannen@grolen.com>
writes:

> But keep in mind that this issue is only out in the public eye to
> create a
> stir.  This is the DIY-EFI equivalent of the National Enquirer.  The
> people who
> are really in the business of stealing projects will be quietly
> offering a
> product for sale while the list is busy screaming over this little
> publicity
> stunt.

Yes, very likely. Even the General hinted at that. Here's another quote
from him:

>This talk about commercial use of information on DIY
>is just silly. Nobody using any information for any type of serious
commercial
>gain will be letting the list know any time soon.

Hmm, I hope that wasn't an admission. But I would think twice, if I were
the General or his mates, about what it's like to live as a *marked man*.
Not a fun thought. Not only is history a harsh mistress, but I've heard
she has a long memory too. :)

Brian
________________________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 17:04:35 2001
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Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...
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At 12:55 PM 9/3/01 -0800, Ludis Langens wrote:

>rr wrote:
>> 
>> The spec sheet for the LM9044
>> makes no mention of a bias voltage output to the O2 sensor.
>
>The data sheet I have does mention a bias.  Check the spec called
>"Non-Inverting Input Bias Current".  The typical value is +/- 380
>nanoAmps.  (In other units, 0.00000038 amps.)

That bias current is not intentional, it's an artifact of real world
devices as opposed to ideal op-amps. If they could make an op-amp
with zero input bias current, they would. (Modern devices are damn
close, too. Picoamp bias currents are not uncommon.) The value is
spec'ed for you so you can determine how much noise voltage will be
generated at any given source impedance. Basically this value is
telling you how much current the amp will draw from (or supply
to) the input.

Now I don't know one way or the other about the correct answer to
the original question (where does the 0.450v bias come from), but
I can tell you that the input bias current isn't part of the answer.

   Chris C.

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 17:37:55 2001
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From: Bernd Felsche <bernie@innovative.iinet.net.au>
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Subject: Re: Digital Tach
In-Reply-To: <3B952884.AC1CB6D9@arm.com> from steve ravet at "Sep 4, 2001 02:16:20
 pm"
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 08:37:33 +0800 (WST)
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steve ravet tapped away at the keyboard with:

> I don't know how much experience is "little", but I think that a digital
> tach will require some kind of micro controller to interface to the
> display (LCD?).  That means you'll have to do a little programming, and

It can all be done with "pure" hardware; a timer, counter and
display driver chip; for LED's, these have been around for a while.
It's as simple as displaying a count over a fixed interval; count
for a preset time, latch output to display, reset counter and start
counting again.

The component _count_ is higher than when using a uC but the
hardware is reliable (well, people excuse small hardware glitches,
but swear at software bugs), cheap and simple to understand.

-- 
 /"\  Bernd Felsche - Innovative Reckoning, Perth, Western Australia
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 17:49:49 2001
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On Wed, 05 Sep 2001 08:15:09 +1000 Peter Gargano <peter@techedge.com.au>
writes:
> It's just not possible to be so 
> prescriptive
> in life and I reject that attitude.

Peter, Peter, you're an intelligent guy, it's awful to watch you poke
your thumbs in your eyes like this!

Here's your "clear cut line". You aren't some disinterested party like a
PCB mfg. or UPS driver. You're a list member, about to benefit from the
generosity of a team of it's members. All they have said is, "if you want
to use this intellectual goodie, you agree to exclude yourself from the
category of a disinterested party or mere hired hand". No monetary
compensation for interested parties like you and me, or anyone who wants
to own a diy-wb, let alone be more widely involved in the project. No
quid pro quo, except a sincere thanks and well-done. Attaboys is all the
wages we can earn from this project. Not so some anonymous pcb or
delivery co. They aren't interested in a diy-wb, couldn't care less,
don't benefit from the intellectual property, wouldn't know a wideband o2
sensor from a wideband radio. Not the same as you & me. Clear
distinction. Because we're in line for the goodie itself, in order to get
it, we have to agree to no monetary or commercial interests in it. No
inconsistency there.

An obvious intent of the agreement was to avoid any questionable mixtures
of interested parties who also play some commercial or monetary role.
Preventing people from wearing both hats has a lot of merit. That's I
trust why BobR from the beginning said the boards would be "at cost".

Face it, Peter. You're not rejecting an impossible or inconsistent
condition, you are simply rejecting a straight-forward usage agreement.
Now if you continue along this line of crippled thinking, pretty soon
you're going to have to pry your fingers loose of the goodie itself,
because if you refuse the agreement, you can't even *build* the circuit,
let alone buy a board, not if your name and reputation means anything to
you.

Think about the prospects of not even being able to honestly build a
diy-wb of your own nor discuss its usage, and I think you'll find a way
to come to your senses. :)  Hope so. I'd hate for you to be left behind
and miss out on the fun to come. I'm personally looking forward to
sharing in the experiences of a whole bunch of diy-wb users. Where else
can you get that? Mine's almost wired. Yahoo!

Think about it.

Your friend,
Brian
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 17:55:46 2001
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Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 11:03:23 +1000
From: Richard Wakeling <kojab@optushome.com.au>
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Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...
References: <000401c133f5$8b519bf0$0100a8c0@telus.net> <3B92CB84.D7EDF98E@nni.com> <001f01c134ab$e70faa20$6969bfce@home> <3B938E7A.F6A43BC2@nni.com> <018601c13482$e1fc84a0$0400a8c0@ros54684kel1> <3B9399E5.3D7F83D2@nni.com> <3B93EE33.6DF5A544@cruzers.com> <3B9563D3.7CC45F53@nni.com>
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    As far as I am aware all the Aussie ECM/PCM have 450 mV output. A cold O2
sensor has an extremely high impedance so it does not pull this 450 mV down. As
the O2 gets hotter and begins to produce a voltage its impedance quickly falls
allowing the O2 voltage to overcome this 450mV bias.
    If any instrument (Some 10 led O2 displays) is connected to the O2 circuit
that does not have extremely high input impedance it will pull this 450 mV bias
down. If this was to occur when the engine is WARM but the O2 sensor is COLD the
integrator will think the engine is lean and unnecessary fuel will be added until
the O2 has reached its ready state.
    So If you have a vehicle that runs poorly when you first start it, make sure
you have nothing hanging on the O2 circuit pulling it down.

Cheers Richard

rr wrote:

> All opamps have an input bias current. The question has been
> "is the O2 sensor input biased to 450mV, on purpose?" In
> other words does the sensor have a 450mV bias output from
> the ECM to the O2 sensor?
>
> I have not found any evidence that it does. I'm thinking that
> what folks are seeing is the 'home' position being read by the
> ECMs ADC & reported as 450mV. This is with the sensor
> disconnected, hence a bias must be being applied to the sensor.
>
> BobR.
>
> Ludis Langens wrote:
>
> > rr wrote:
> > >
> > > The spec sheet for the LM9044
> > > makes no mention of a bias voltage output to the O2 sensor.
> >
> > The data sheet I have does mention a bias.  Check the spec called
> > "Non-Inverting Input Bias Current".  The typical value is +/- 380
> > nanoAmps.  (In other units, 0.00000038 amps.)
> >
> > > With a Fluke 83 measuring this input to ground the ECM then reports
> > > a 409mV O2 sensor voltage. The Fluke reports a 397 mV level
> > > on the O2 + input (open). This is quite a change for a high input
> > > impedence DVM.
> >
> > Measure with the meter connected between the + input and the ECMs 5 volt
> > supply.  Or measure between the + input and the + end of a D cell (or C,
> > or AA, or ...) with the negative end of the cell jumpered to ECM ground.
> >
> > --
> > Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
> > Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 19:03:15 2001
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Subject: Re: The list is busy screaming ..
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>Here's your "clear cut line". You aren't some disinterested party like a
>PCB mfg. or UPS driver. You're a list member,

So why is it, then, that people had a fit when someone suggested having a 
manufacturer build the completed boards?  They are clearly a disinterested 
party also.  What's the difference between having the board and components 
built, and just the board built??

Brian

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 19:57:21 2001
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Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 21:52:37 -0500
From: steve ravet <sravet@arm.com>
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But all those EEC list guys are disinterested.  So is everyone else out
on the internet who stumbles across our home page, and believe me as the
maintainer a lot of non-subscribers find our page from various search
engines.  I don't think it's in the spirit of the thing for them to
profit and members not to.  Peter is correct that it's a fine line with
plenty of wiggle room.

With that said, it's clear ti list members who the project belongs to,
and the conditions of usage are clear.  A GNU style license would have
avoided a lot of fuss but that's not what we have. I urge everyone to
respect Bruce and company's license.  And no more discussion.  There's
nothing new left to add.

--->  I really hope the discussion ends here.  <---

One more thing:  A lot of people have chosen to speak for the list
recently, regarding what's allowed and what isn't.  There's a charter
for each list on the home page, and there's nothing on there about not
allowing commercial messages.  That includes people offering services,
selling/buying parts, etc.  In the spirit of the old hotrod list, the
charter here is as broad as possible consistent with noise suppression. 
There is nothing dishonorable about profit, as long as it's in return
for real value add, and not in violation of a usage agreement.

Any replies, send them directly.  My address is below.

--steve

Brian L Massey wrote:
> 
> On Wed, 05 Sep 2001 08:15:09 +1000 Peter Gargano <peter@techedge.com.au>
> writes:
> > It's just not possible to be so
> > prescriptive
> > in life and I reject that attitude.
> 
> Peter, Peter, you're an intelligent guy, it's awful to watch you poke
> your thumbs in your eyes like this!

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 20:49:19 2001
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Message-ID: <013401c135bc$1ba7f380$5c658318@mw.mediaone.net>
From: "Josh Ely" <braxx@mediaone.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
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Subject: Not SPAM, but it is a "For sale"
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 23:37:26 -0400
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I'm sorry guy's and gal's, but I'm really in a bind.
I know that some of this doesn't come close to being on topic or even
 discussion related, but I really need to sell this stuff.
 (1) New OTC monitor 4000 #3352. I only checked one car with this scan tool.
Almost Everything is still wrapped in plastic. (Cables and such!)Deluxe Scan
Tool Set with Enhanced Monitor-everything you need to get started. It
includes the new Enhanced Monitor, Pathfinder II, (included free) and
Pathfinder '99 software and a coupon for the 2001 Pathfinder / Import
upgrade, plus all necessary cables (including the new Ford III, Chrysler
III,  and
three SSI); all packed into a molded plastic organizer case. Pathfinder '99
covers '89 to '99 GM, Ford, and Chrysler vehicles; Pathfinder II software
covers from '79 through '93 so you have
 every domestic on-board computer covered with on set. Both
cartridges give you diagnostic capabilities in the from of the "Guided Path"
and "Quick Path," plus data stream functions for GM, Ford, and Chrysler.
 Set includes Enhanced Monitor, six vehicle adapter cables, deluxe
 OBD II cable with three "System Smart Inserts," extension cable,
 Pathfinder II and Pathfinder '99 software cartridges, user
 manual, coupon for instructional video, plus TSB and PROM I.D.
 manuals. $700
    (9) 160lb Bosch fuel injectors. Gas or Methanol compatible. (NEW) $50
 each or $400 for all.
  I live in S.E. Michigan. (Westland) Please send any questions via my
personal email address below. (I don't want to clutter up the list)
 Thanks,
 Josh Ely
 braxx@mediaone.net



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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 20:55:41 2001
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Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2001 20:55:32 -0700
Subject: Wiggle Room
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On Tue, 04 Sep 2001 21:52:37 -0500 steve ravet <sravet@arm.com> writes:
> But all those EEC list guys are disinterested.  So is everyone else 
> out
> on the internet who stumbles across our home page, and believe me as 
> the
> maintainer a lot of non-subscribers find our page from various 
> search
> engines.  I don't think it's in the spirit of the thing for them to
> profit and members not to.  Peter is correct that it's a fine line 
> with
> plenty of wiggle room.

I think this is confusion. I certainly didn't mean to suggest "all those
EEC list guys are *disinterested*". I don't think you understood what I
wrote. They most certainly are interested parties subject to the usage
agreement; their interest is in building a diy-wb of their own. Are you
suggesting that the usage agreement isn't on the homepage? I wasn't for a
moment suggesting that non-subscribers are *disinterested*, either.
Referring to Peter as a list member with personal interest in the diy-wb,
I wasn't suggesting that only list members are therefore "interested
parties". I thought I made that clear from describing anyone who wants to
build a diy-wb or getting involved even further, as all interested
parties, subject to the usage agreement. How in the world you read me to
the contrary is beyond me. The usage agreement is part of the zip file as
well.

> And no more discussion.  
> There's nothing new left to add.
> 
> --->  I really hope the discussion ends here.  <---

Why is it people say things like this? Peter the General essentially
wrote me the same thing privately, trying to shut me up. You make some
confused remarks and then essentially say, "no more discussion"? Do you
really hope to edict the last word like that? Read more carefully what is
said, and avoid posting confused conclusions, and you won't have to read
any more responses like this one. I promise. Not a good way to try to end
a discussion, by edicting the last word. (I don't see how maintaining the
DIY homepages gives you that prerogative or authority, Steve).

> One more thing:  A lot of people have chosen to speak for the list
> recently, regarding what's allowed and what isn't.

Let's be clear, just in case you had me included in that "a lot of
people"; I never once spoke about what the "list" allows for, only
commented on what the usage agreement and intent of the project team
seemed to clearly say, from their own postings.

Right about now I'm beginning to feel *really* sorry for those guys that
made this project happen. Very sad so many are looking for "wiggle room",
as you call it Steve. I'm especially disappointed someone so close to the
list feels that way.

Brian -fairly new to the list, but old to the planet, too old maybe-
Massey
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On Tue, 04 Sep 2001 22:06:33 -0700 Brian Renegar
<thomas.renegar@nist.gov> writes:
> What's the difference between having the board and 
> components 
> built, and just the board built??

I'll take a stab at that by asking another rhetorical question. What's
the difference between buying a board all built, and buying a commercial
product? Yes, you have a disinterested party, but you also have just
created the same as a commercial product, except for the price. The
person has a wb now, and more cheaply, but what did he do himself? Was
the purpose of the project to provide everyone with a cheap already built
product? Or was it intended primarily as a DIY project?

IIRC, that was explained with the objection to just farming out the
mass-production of them.

Brian
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I am an Aussie, and am grateful to Peter for offering the service.
It would cost me waaaaaaaay more than $20 to take time off work
and dick around with various parts vendors and paperwork. Peter
is *saving* me money in offering to amortise the whole operation
into one central deal.

I fully appreciate people not making money from the  design testing
etc ... as I understand it Peter is just asking for some compensation
for the work involved in sourcing and bringing in things from the USA
which I do all of the time for both of my Pontiacs .. .and it is a pain
to have to deal with customs or even take time off work to venture to
the nearest post office when they decide to open to collect things.
On these days I don't even get to work until 10:30am.

'nuff said.


geoffs :-)

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Geoff Swavley                       Email : geoffs@radx.net
UNIX Sys Admin                      Snail : Level 8, 10 Valentine Ave,
Support and Network Operations              Parramatta   NSW   2150
Dept of Land and Water Conservation         Sydney  Australia
                                            Phone : 61-2-98957125
http://www.radx.net/~geoffs                 Fax   : 61-2-98957086
Mobile: 61-425-224475 / 61-2-83004475       Home  : 61-2-83389510
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Car quote that best reflects how I feel: "Fast, Reliable, Inexpensive;
Choose two of the previous."
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 21:06:10 2001
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From: "Mark S. Riley" <turbotuneusltd@triad.rr.com>
To: "GM-ECM List" <gmecm@diy-efi.org>, "diy-efi list" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Pictures of DIY-WB
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 00:10:54 -0400
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I've posted 3 pictures I took this afternoon of the DIY-WB next to the
Horiba.
http://www.turbotuneusltd.nstemp.com/wideband/
Shows the 2 bonger tail pipe stinger. Should have seen the kids laughing at
it when we went to lunch.
>From the little bit I been able to drive it today, it's a very close match
to the Horiba. The Horiba is displaying down to the hundreth of an air fuel
ratio. This is much finer than the hundreths of a volt shown on the meter.
But looking at the voltage to a/f chart so far everything matches very well.
Warm up time is about 35-40 seconds. Just a little bit longer than the
Horiba. I added 2 led's to show power for the 2 power leads.
later, Mark

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 21:24:02 2001
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Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 23:21:58 -0500
From: Chad Clendening <clendenc@execpc.com>
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One of the difficulties designing circuits around an expensive device like the
UEGO sensor is how to do it without spending $$$ on blown sensors.  This problem
was complicated by having to figure out exactly how to control the thing.  The
possibility of frying this thing was ( and still is) real if precautions are not
taken.  Please do not take this lightly!

I don't know anyone else who would consider sending these things out at their
going rate  - either the previous or the cheap one now - to complete strangers who
have done little more than demonstrate a slight bit of competence with electronic
circuits on a newsgroup and a willingness to experiment.  Quite generous in my
book  ( Bruce).


The name is right, thanks.  It is suprising how many can't figure it out.
- Chad


> Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 11:45:08 -0400
> From: Scot Sealander <Sealand@clarityconnect.com>
> Subject: What went wrong with the Aussie WB Buy?
>
> Or, How greed screwed things up.....
>
> First, Bruce wanted a DIY_WB.  He did not have the skills to do it
> himself.  But what he did have, was the ability to get some other folks
> together to get it done.

> After numerous expensive set backs, several

> years, lots of prodding, poking, and learning, the first prototype was

> born.  This came from a lot of effort from among others, Chad Clendening
> (did I spell that right?).  Did I mention Bruce spent a lot of his own
> money to get sensors, data and so forth?  Remember that.

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 21:24:15 2001
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From: "Jeff Meager" <jmeager@bigpond.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Aussie Group Purchase
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 12:26:15 +0800
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I have no problem assembling, buy my own parts etc.  I would even etch my
own damn board if it came to it, but I can't because I don't have the
artwork.  I am not skilled enough to make the board from the schematics.....

I want a PCB, and I WAS getting one through Peter G.  If the list is now
against Peter supplying the boards, can someone please point me to another
board source - and yes I'm in Australia....

thanks
Jeff

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Geoff Swavley
Sent: Wednesday, 5 September 2001 11:57 AM
To: diy efi
Subject: Re: Aussie Group Purchase



I am an Aussie, and am grateful to Peter for offering the service.
It would cost me waaaaaaaay more than $20 to take time off work
and dick around with various parts vendors and paperwork. Peter
is *saving* me money in offering to amortise the whole operation
into one central deal.

I fully appreciate people not making money from the  design testing
etc ... as I understand it Peter is just asking for some compensation
for the work involved in sourcing and bringing in things from the USA
which I do all of the time for both of my Pontiacs .. .and it is a pain
to have to deal with customs or even take time off work to venture to
the nearest post office when they decide to open to collect things.
On these days I don't even get to work until 10:30am.

'nuff said.


geoffs :-)

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Geoff Swavley                       Email : geoffs@radx.net
UNIX Sys Admin                      Snail : Level 8, 10 Valentine Ave,
Support and Network Operations              Parramatta   NSW   2150
Dept of Land and Water Conservation         Sydney  Australia
                                            Phone : 61-2-98957125
http://www.radx.net/~geoffs                 Fax   : 61-2-98957086
Mobile: 61-425-224475 / 61-2-83004475       Home  : 61-2-83389510
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Car quote that best reflects how I feel: "Fast, Reliable, Inexpensive;
Choose two of the previous."
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 21:40:31 2001
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Subject: Re: Aussie Group Purchase
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: "Don DRI05 Ricciardiello" <dricciardiello@qantas.com.au>
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 14:40:44 +1000
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Well said.......

Don

Sydney, Australia



From: Geoff Swavley <geoffs@radx.net>@diy-efi.org on 05/09/2001 13:56

Please respond to diy_efi@diy-efi.org

Sent by:  owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org


To:   diy efi <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
cc:
Subject:  Re: Aussie Group Purchase



I am an Aussie, and am grateful to Peter for offering the service.
It would cost me waaaaaaaay more than $20 to take time off work
and dick around with various parts vendors and paperwork. Peter
is *saving* me money in offering to amortise the whole operation
into one central deal.

I fully appreciate people not making money from the  design testing
etc ... as I understand it Peter is just asking for some compensation
for the work involved in sourcing and bringing in things from the USA
which I do all of the time for both of my Pontiacs .. .and it is a pain
to have to deal with customs or even take time off work to venture to
the nearest post office when they decide to open to collect things.
On these days I don't even get to work until 10:30am.

'nuff said.


geoffs :-)

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Geoff Swavley                       Email : geoffs@radx.net
UNIX Sys Admin                      Snail : Level 8, 10 Valentine Ave,
Support and Network Operations              Parramatta   NSW   2150
Dept of Land and Water Conservation         Sydney  Australia
                                            Phone : 61-2-98957125
http://www.radx.net/~geoffs                 Fax   : 61-2-98957086
Mobile: 61-425-224475 / 61-2-83004475       Home  : 61-2-83389510
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Car quote that best reflects how I feel: "Fast, Reliable, Inexpensive;
Choose two of the previous."
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 22:02:48 2001
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From: "Jeff Meager" <jmeager@bigpond.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: Aussie Group Purchase
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 13:04:52 +0800
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Agreed.....

Must be an Aussie thing....

Jeff

Perth, Australia

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Don DRI05 Ricciardiello
Sent: Wednesday, 5 September 2001 12:41 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Aussie Group Purchase



Well said.......

Don

Sydney, Australia



From: Geoff Swavley <geoffs@radx.net>@diy-efi.org on 05/09/2001 13:56

Please respond to diy_efi@diy-efi.org

Sent by:  owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org


To:   diy efi <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
cc:
Subject:  Re: Aussie Group Purchase



I am an Aussie, and am grateful to Peter for offering the service.
It would cost me waaaaaaaay more than $20 to take time off work
and dick around with various parts vendors and paperwork. Peter
is *saving* me money in offering to amortise the whole operation
into one central deal.

I fully appreciate people not making money from the  design testing
etc ... as I understand it Peter is just asking for some compensation
for the work involved in sourcing and bringing in things from the USA
which I do all of the time for both of my Pontiacs .. .and it is a pain
to have to deal with customs or even take time off work to venture to
the nearest post office when they decide to open to collect things.
On these days I don't even get to work until 10:30am.

'nuff said.


geoffs :-)

----------------------------------------------------------------------
Geoff Swavley                       Email : geoffs@radx.net
UNIX Sys Admin                      Snail : Level 8, 10 Valentine Ave,
Support and Network Operations              Parramatta   NSW   2150
Dept of Land and Water Conservation         Sydney  Australia
                                            Phone : 61-2-98957125
http://www.radx.net/~geoffs                 Fax   : 61-2-98957086
Mobile: 61-425-224475 / 61-2-83004475       Home  : 61-2-83389510
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Car quote that best reflects how I feel: "Fast, Reliable, Inexpensive;
Choose two of the previous."
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 22:05:18 2001
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Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 17:03:30 +1200
From: Lachlan <lpgb@xtra.co.nz>
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Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 09:35:45 -0400
From: Eric Fahlgren <efahl@adams.com>
Subject: Re: Digital Tach

Since RPM seems to not need high acuracy you could do it with a LED array of say
50 LED's for an accuracy of 120RPM and a range of 6000RPM...how does that sound? I
guess it would start to get expensive WRT the drivers but leds are cheapish.

OH! Hi all, I have just joined the list hoping to learn somthing and input where I
can.

I have an electronics background (minimal) in Automotive computers and used to
work for a company in Australia that repaired them but that was a long time (8
years) ago and only for a couple of years, though during that time I learnt a heap
about automotive electronics and was exposed to BOSCH units of many types, ECC
IV's, Nissan JECS on the 4 and 6 cyl Nissans and a few others, I also built a
number of test rigs that would 'fake' the signals to the ECU for the purposes
testing and the ECC IV was the most dificult to get 'out!' of limp mode.....anyhow
a bit of a backgound, just don't expect any specific answers to questions like
'what is the basic  idle, limp mode pulse width of the porche 928S?'!

Good to be here and I will keep quite for a little while. :)

regards,
Lachlan.

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Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 13:51:29 +0800
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: Chris Waltham <chris@harvestroad.com>
Subject: Re: Digital Tach and Newbie!
In-Reply-To: <3B95B221.C6CD215@xtra.co.nz>
References: <200109041844.LAA12527@hektor.valesh.com>
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Hi Lachlan,

Know anything about the 1991 Nissan Pulsar GTi-R? :-)


Chris
also a newbie


>Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 09:35:45 -0400
>From: Eric Fahlgren <efahl@adams.com>
>Subject: Re: Digital Tach
>
>Since RPM seems to not need high acuracy you could do it with a LED array 
>of say
>50 LED's for an accuracy of 120RPM and a range of 6000RPM...how does that 
>sound? I
>guess it would start to get expensive WRT the drivers but leds are cheapish.
>
>OH! Hi all, I have just joined the list hoping to learn somthing and input 
>where I
>can.
>
>I have an electronics background (minimal) in Automotive computers and used to
>work for a company in Australia that repaired them but that was a long time (8
>years) ago and only for a couple of years, though during that time I 
>learnt a heap
>about automotive electronics and was exposed to BOSCH units of many types, ECC
>IV's, Nissan JECS on the 4 and 6 cyl Nissans and a few others, I also built a
>number of test rigs that would 'fake' the signals to the ECU for the purposes
>testing and the ECC IV was the most dificult to get 'out!' of limp 
>mode.....anyhow
>a bit of a backgound, just don't expect any specific answers to questions like
>'what is the basic  idle, limp mode pulse width of the porche 928S?'!
>
>Good to be here and I will keep quite for a little while. :)
>
>regards,
>Lachlan.
>
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-- 
Chris Waltham
Systems Administrator
HarvestRoad, Limited.
chris@harvestroad.com
phone: (08) 9338-3000

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 23:35:12 2001
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     Wed, 05 Sep 2001 08:37:10 +0200
From: "Bert Bakker" <bert.bakker@bakker-it.nl>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: sensor purchase
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 08:35:20 +0200
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Hi Bernd,

Sounds great!! Is the part number the same as the wb-project number?

Where is 'local' to you? Or could we form a small purchase group?

Bert



 | -----Original Message-----
 | From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
 | Behalf Of Rausch, Bernd
 | Sent: dinsdag 4 september 2001 17:10
 | To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
 | Subject: AW: Oz DIY-WB board & sensor group purchase
 | 
 | 
 | Hi Bert,
 | 
 | I saked my local Honda dealer two weeks ago, the sensor is about DM
 | 300+VAT in Germany.
 | Bernd
 | 
 | -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
 | Von: Bert Bakker [mailto:bert.bakker@bakker-it.nl]
 | Gesendet: Dienstag, 4. September 2001 15:43
 | An: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
 | Betreff: RE: Oz DIY-WB board & sensor group purchase
 | 
 | 
 | 
 |  | SENSOR
 |  | ------
 |  | As PCBs have not shipped yet, I have not actually finalised the
 |  | Honda/NTK sensor group purchase (which is currently at qty. 15).
 |  | All PCB purchasers have been given the opportunity to beat The
 |  | Parts Bin price of US$117.78 + freight - if we can do better, then
 |  | I'll go with that, but that looks like the best deal.
 | 
 | Hi,
 | 
 | I called a local Honda dealer over here and a sensor costs 
 | appr. US$ 325
 | (equivalent) excl. VAT. So your deal is much better!
 | Is it possible to join the sensor group purchase from the 
 | Netherlands,
 | Europe? How do we make things happen?
 | 
 | The Honda Civic 1.5 VTEC 92-95 sensor seems to have a 
 | different number
 | over
 | here: 36531-P06-A01 (instead of 36531-P07-003). Is there a difference
 | between the US and the European car model?
 | 
 | Also, is a datasheet of the sensor available?
 | 
 | Regards,
 | Bert
 | 
 | 
 | -------------------------------------------------------------
 | -----------
 | ----
 | To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue Sep  4 23:45:52 2001
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From: "Yaz zo" <yazzoe@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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Hi,

Is there someone who can help me to acquire the NTK UEGO sensor datasheet 
(may send large info directly to yazzoe@hotmail.com)?

Or can point out where to find it?

Thanks,
Yaz


_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 00:53:13 2001
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Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 17:55:01 +1000
From: Peter Gargano <peter@techedge.com.au>
Organization: Tech Edge Pty. Ltd. - ABN 40 057 140 137
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Subject: Re: DIY-WB boards status and AU orders UPDATE read this
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Bob Valentine wrote:
> 
> 2.  AUSTRALIAN (AU) BUYERS:
> 
> It's not right that someone offered to do a group purchase for your area to
> save on shipping costs, and then *after the fact* decided to turn a profit.
>   So just buy the boards, *AT EXACT COST*, directly from the USA.

Bob, you know the facts, and they are not as you describe them.

All Australian buyers can get an Australian designed board thru' me at
cost + $0. And if that cost is more than AU$20 I'll personally subsidise
each board. This PCB will have an A/D converter and a serial (RS232)
output. I'm also working on an add-on display with integrated 10 channel
data logger (32 k byte or more) and 2 x 16 line LCD for stand-alone operation.

> 3.  It's really sad to come back from the weekend to 50+ "is the WB project
> dead?" emails and the GMECM list in an all out flame war.

I won't involved in an on-list flame war, but I will also say I'm dismayed
too, Bob.

Bob - you are bouncing my emails - is this intentional?

Also, I have received a dozen or so virus emails - this is probably
co-incidental, but this is my monthly quota in a single morning. I'm working
on tracking down the source, I'll keep the group posted.

Peter.

PS. Sorry for the double posting - perhaps we need another list Steve?
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 01:28:52 2001
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To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Re: Digital Tach and Newbie!
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 18:27:56 +1000
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Don't go all quiet on us Lachlan! There are a few would be JECS hackers (lurkers) 
around and given there is next to no info available on them, I'm sure anything you can
tell us would be appreciated. Everynow and then someone asks about them.

Were you mainly just repairing them? Did you have schematics at all or did
your repairs mainly involve replacing dried out electros, fixing bad solder joints
 etc?

Thanks,
Christian

> Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 17:03:30 +1200
> From: Lachlan <lpgb@xtra.co.nz>
> Subject: Re: Digital Tach and Newbie!
> 
> 
> I have an electronics background (minimal) in Automotive computers and used to
> work for a company in Australia that repaired them but that was a long time (8
> years) ago and only for a couple of years, though during that time I learnt a heap
> about automotive electronics and was exposed to BOSCH units of many types, ECC
> IV's, Nissan JECS on the 4 and 6 cyl Nissans and a few others, I also built a
> number of test rigs that would 'fake' the signals to the ECU for the purposes
> testing and the ECC IV was the most dificult to get 'out!' of limp mode.....anyhow
> a bit of a backgound, just don't expect any specific answers to questions like
> 'what is the basic  idle, limp mode pulse width of the porche 928S?'!
> 
> Good to be here and I will keep quite for a little while. :)
> 
> regards,
> Lachlan.
> 


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Subject: DIY-WB PCB boards files
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 11:30:30 +0300 
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Hi,

Would it be possible to get PCB file for DIY-WB, as I live in Poland,
And making PCB here locally is much cheaper than import it form US.

BR
Daniel
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 05:27:57 2001
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Subject: Re: DIY-WB boards status and AU orders UPDATE read this
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Peter Gargano wrote:

> PS. Sorry for the double posting - perhaps we need another list Steve?

Sure, one for off topic discussions and the 3 that we have.  We could
setup flame@diy-efi.org.

In general there's no need for double posting.  DIY-WB is not really
related to gmecm, so the discussion should be confined to diy_efi.

--steve

-- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@arm.com
ARM,Inc.
www.arm.com
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 05:37:17 2001
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To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: The list is busy screaming ..
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 08:34:58 -0400 
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I will take up as little BW as possible.

DROP THIS TOPIC!!!  Or take it off list.

If I wanted this type of morning entertainment, I would watch Jerry
Springer.

SF

-----Original Message-----
From: Brian L Massey [mailto:blocklm@juno.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2001 11:16 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: The list is busy screaming ..



On Tue, 04 Sep 2001 22:06:33 -0700 Brian Renegar
<thomas.renegar@nist.gov> writes:
> What's the difference between having the board and 
> components 
> built, and just the board built??

I'll take a stab at that by asking another rhetorical question. What's
the difference between buying a board all built, and buying a commercial
product? Yes, you have a disinterested party, but you also have just
created the same as a commercial product, except for the price. The
person has a wb now, and more cheaply, but what did he do himself? Was
the purpose of the project to provide everyone with a cheap already built
product? Or was it intended primarily as a DIY project?

IIRC, that was explained with the objection to just farming out the
mass-production of them.

Brian
________________________________________________________________
GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 06:18:03 2001
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Subject: DIY-WB boards status and AU orders UPDATE read this
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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0. First and foremost, the DIY-WB project is *NOT* dead. IT
WILL GO ON. This is a *not for profit* project and it will
stay that way, period. 

1. Future availiblity. Some have asked about extras, or
more boards in the future. After the current mess is solved
I will post a message about this. 

2. AUSTRALIAN (AU) BUYERS: 

It's not right that someone offered to do a group purchase
for your area to save on shipping costs, and then *after
the fact* decided to turn a profit.  So just buy the
boards, *AT EXACT COST*, directly from the USA. 

To do this, send me an email at wideband@tecmark.com with:

Subject line "AU BUYER"
Your name
Your full address
The original quantity you ordered with Peter Gargano. Be
honest here. How do you want to pay, online or check /
money order in US funds?

You will be contacted with a total and payment info. 

3. It's really sad to come back from the weekend to 50+ "is
the WB project dead?" emails and the GMECM list in an all
out flame war. 

- Bob Valentine
- wideband@tecmark.com


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 06:36:42 2001
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This is great news Mark. The stinger looks neat also. Can
see why you get looks & chuckling. I had one guy ask who
I was trying to email when he saw the cable taped to the
side of the car leading into the back window.

BobR.

On Wed, 5 Sep 2001 00:10:54 -0400
 "Mark S. Riley" <turbotuneusltd@triad.rr.com> wrote:
> I've posted 3 pictures I took this afternoon of the
> DIY-WB next to the
> Horiba.
> http://www.turbotuneusltd.nstemp.com/wideband/
> Shows the 2 bonger tail pipe stinger. Should have seen
> the kids laughing at
> it when we went to lunch.
> From the little bit I been able to drive it today, it's a
> very close match
> to the Horiba. The Horiba is displaying down to the
> hundreth of an air fuel
> ratio. This is much finer than the hundreths of a volt
> shown on the meter.
> But looking at the voltage to a/f chart so far everything
> matches very well.
> Warm up time is about 35-40 seconds. Just a little bit
> longer than the
> Horiba. I added 2 led's to show power for the 2 power
> leads.
> later, Mark
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 06:40:25 2001
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Subject: Re: Pictures of DIY-WB
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I keep having kids ask to go ahead and shoot flames.
Bruce


From: "rr" <rrauscher@nni.com>
Subject: Re: Pictures of DIY-WB
> This is great news Mark. The stinger looks neat also. Can
> see why you get looks & chuckling. I had one guy ask who
> I was trying to email when he saw the cable taped to the
> side of the car leading into the back window.
> BobR.

> On Wed, 5 Sep 2001 00:10:54 -0400
>  "Mark S. Riley" <turbotuneusltd@triad.rr.com> wrote:
> > I've posted 3 pictures I took this afternoon of the
> > DIY-WB next to the
> > Horiba.
> > http://www.turbotuneusltd.nstemp.com/wideband/
> > Shows the 2 bonger tail pipe stinger. Should have seen
> > the kids laughing at
> > it when we went to lunch.
> > From the little bit I been able to drive it today, it's a
> > very close match
> > to the Horiba. The Horiba is displaying down to the
> > hundreth of an air fuel
> > ratio. This is much finer than the hundreths of a volt
> > shown on the meter.
> > But looking at the voltage to a/f chart so far everything
> > matches very well.
> > Warm up time is about 35-40 seconds. Just a little bit
> > longer than the
> > Horiba. I added 2 led's to show power for the 2 power
> > leads.
> > later, Mark
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 06:43:56 2001
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Subject: Re: Pictures of DIY-WB
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I've been thinking of on my next *pipe*  to go with the smallest diameter
they have, and much shorter on the outboard part of the tubing.   It just
seems that, as long as the engine is running there will be more exhuast
pressure then atmosphere, so dilution shouldn't be a problem.
Bruce




From: "rr" <rrauscher@nni.com>
Subject: Re: Pictures of DIY-WB
> This is great news Mark. The stinger looks neat also. Can
> see why you get looks & chuckling. I had one guy ask who
> I was trying to email when he saw the cable taped to the
> side of the car leading into the back window.
> BobR.

> On Wed, 5 Sep 2001 00:10:54 -0400
>  "Mark S. Riley" <turbotuneusltd@triad.rr.com> wrote:
> > I've posted 3 pictures I took this afternoon of the
> > DIY-WB next to the
> > Horiba.
> > http://www.turbotuneusltd.nstemp.com/wideband/
> > Shows the 2 bonger tail pipe stinger. Should have seen
> > the kids laughing at
> > it when we went to lunch.
> > From the little bit I been able to drive it today, it's a
> > very close match
> > to the Horiba. The Horiba is displaying down to the
> > hundreth of an air fuel
> > ratio. This is much finer than the hundreths of a volt
> > shown on the meter.
> > But looking at the voltage to a/f chart so far everything
> > matches very well.
> > Warm up time is about 35-40 seconds. Just a little bit
> > longer than the
> > Horiba. I added 2 led's to show power for the 2 power
> > leads.
> > later, Mark


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 06:59:07 2001
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Subject: Re: DIY-WB boards status and AU orders UPDATE read this
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When you start telling stories and conflicting ones at that, then no one
knows when you might be actually telling the truth.  You now claim to just
have been playing a game/trick on the list, well, gee, guess what, it
backfired.
Those are the facts.
Bruce


From: "Peter Gargano" <peter@techedge.com.au>
Subject: Re: DIY-WB boards status and AU orders UPDATE read this
>
> Bob, you know the facts, and they are not as you describe them.


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 07:15:26 2001
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I haven't looked at what you guys have built yet, but
have you thought about getting water up the pipe ?? Happens on ours all the
time---we use a small old style
Ford inline fuel filter( 1/8"pipe thread x 5/16" nipple) to trap the chunks
and it actually retains a little water.

Lyndon.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>; "GM-ECM List" <gmecm@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 7:44 AM
Subject: Re: Pictures of DIY-WB


>
> I've been thinking of on my next *pipe*  to go with the smallest diameter
> they have, and much shorter on the outboard part of the tubing.   It just
> seems that, as long as the engine is running there will be more exhuast
> pressure then atmosphere, so dilution shouldn't be a problem.
> Bruce
>
>
>
>
> From: "rr" <rrauscher@nni.com>
> Subject: Re: Pictures of DIY-WB
> > This is great news Mark. The stinger looks neat also. Can
> > see why you get looks & chuckling. I had one guy ask who
> > I was trying to email when he saw the cable taped to the
> > side of the car leading into the back window.
> > BobR.
>
> > On Wed, 5 Sep 2001 00:10:54 -0400
> >  "Mark S. Riley" <turbotuneusltd@triad.rr.com> wrote:
> > > I've posted 3 pictures I took this afternoon of the
> > > DIY-WB next to the
> > > Horiba.
> > > http://www.turbotuneusltd.nstemp.com/wideband/
> > > Shows the 2 bonger tail pipe stinger. Should have seen
> > > the kids laughing at
> > > it when we went to lunch.
> > > From the little bit I been able to drive it today, it's a
> > > very close match
> > > to the Horiba. The Horiba is displaying down to the
> > > hundreth of an air fuel
> > > ratio. This is much finer than the hundreths of a volt
> > > shown on the meter.
> > > But looking at the voltage to a/f chart so far everything
> > > matches very well.
> > > Warm up time is about 35-40 seconds. Just a little bit
> > > longer than the
> > > Horiba. I added 2 led's to show power for the 2 power
> > > leads.
> > > later, Mark
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 07:18:02 2001
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From: "Programmer" <nwester@eidnet.org>
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References: <web-32734926@admin.nni.com> <00f101c0173e$e856fcc0$ad0ac9d8@bruce>
Subject: Re: pipe
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 08:18:45 -0600
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Oops...after seeing it, there wouldn't be a problem.
Lyndon.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 7:40 AM
Subject: Re: Pictures of DIY-WB


>
> I keep having kids ask to go ahead and shoot flames.
> Bruce
>
>
> From: "rr" <rrauscher@nni.com>
> Subject: Re: Pictures of DIY-WB
> > This is great news Mark. The stinger looks neat also. Can
> > see why you get looks & chuckling. I had one guy ask who
> > I was trying to email when he saw the cable taped to the
> > side of the car leading into the back window.
> > BobR.
>
> > On Wed, 5 Sep 2001 00:10:54 -0400
> >  "Mark S. Riley" <turbotuneusltd@triad.rr.com> wrote:
> > > I've posted 3 pictures I took this afternoon of the
> > > DIY-WB next to the
> > > Horiba.
> > > http://www.turbotuneusltd.nstemp.com/wideband/
> > > Shows the 2 bonger tail pipe stinger. Should have seen
> > > the kids laughing at
> > > it when we went to lunch.
> > > From the little bit I been able to drive it today, it's a
> > > very close match
> > > to the Horiba. The Horiba is displaying down to the
> > > hundreth of an air fuel
> > > ratio. This is much finer than the hundreths of a volt
> > > shown on the meter.
> > > But looking at the voltage to a/f chart so far everything
> > > matches very well.
> > > Warm up time is about 35-40 seconds. Just a little bit
> > > longer than the
> > > Horiba. I added 2 led's to show power for the 2 power
> > > leads.
> > > later, Mark
> > >
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 07:21:03 2001
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Subject: was sensor purchase, now group purchase
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From: "Rausch, Bernd" <br@rnt.de>
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Hi Bert,

the sensor is the 36531-P07-003.
I have just been at the dealer again (I live in Karlsruhe, Germany), the
price is DM 330+16%VAT=DM 383. I asked about discount for 10, they gave
me 10%. The boss was not there, maybe I could convince him to give some
more (I know him personally).

I would be willing to organize a group purchase (Europe only), if
interested please mail me directly (br@rnt.de) with UEGO in the
headline. I will offer this service probably only once. If I have the
number of sensors, I can tell the exact price. I have not done much
shipping outside of Germany, I would have to ask for rates.

After I can set a price, there will be a order time of about two weeks,
maybe 09/23 ? Any suggestions ?

I will send out the sensors for the cost of the sensor+shipping, but you
have to pay in advance. I am not making any money with this deal (in
fact I have to pay an employee of mine to do the packing and shipping).
I am not going to build the DIY-WB because I already have an ECU with
UEGO sensors.

Best regards,
Bernd

-----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
Von: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]Im
Auftrag von Bert Bakker
Gesendet: Mittwoch, 5. September 2001 08:35
An: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Betreff: sensor purchase


Hi Bernd,

Sounds great!! Is the part number the same as the wb-project number?

Where is 'local' to you? Or could we form a small purchase group?

Bert



 | -----Original Message-----
 | From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
 | Behalf Of Rausch, Bernd
 | Sent: dinsdag 4 september 2001 17:10
 | To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
 | Subject: AW: Oz DIY-WB board & sensor group purchase
 | 
 | 
 | Hi Bert,
 | 
 | I saked my local Honda dealer two weeks ago, the sensor is about DM
 | 300+VAT in Germany.
 | Bernd
 | 
 | -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht-----
 | Von: Bert Bakker [mailto:bert.bakker@bakker-it.nl]
 | Gesendet: Dienstag, 4. September 2001 15:43
 | An: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
 | Betreff: RE: Oz DIY-WB board & sensor group purchase
 | 
 | 
 | 
 |  | SENSOR
 |  | ------
 |  | As PCBs have not shipped yet, I have not actually finalised the
 |  | Honda/NTK sensor group purchase (which is currently at qty. 15).
 |  | All PCB purchasers have been given the opportunity to beat The
 |  | Parts Bin price of US$117.78 + freight - if we can do better, then
 |  | I'll go with that, but that looks like the best deal.
 | 
 | Hi,
 | 
 | I called a local Honda dealer over here and a sensor costs 
 | appr. US$ 325
 | (equivalent) excl. VAT. So your deal is much better!
 | Is it possible to join the sensor group purchase from the 
 | Netherlands,
 | Europe? How do we make things happen?
 | 
 | The Honda Civic 1.5 VTEC 92-95 sensor seems to have a 
 | different number
 | over
 | here: 36531-P06-A01 (instead of 36531-P07-003). Is there a difference
 | between the US and the European car model?
 | 
 | Also, is a datasheet of the sensor available?
 | 
 | Regards,
 | Bert
 | 
 | 
 | -------------------------------------------------------------
 | -----------
 | ----
 | To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
 | quotes)
 | in the body of a message (not the subject) to
 | majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
 | 
 | 
 | -------------------------------------------------------------
 | ---------------
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 | (without the quotes)
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 | 
 | 
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 07:54:39 2001
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From: "BOWEN, SCOTT M. (JSC-CC) (LM)" <scott.m.bowen1@jsc.nasa.gov>
To: "'DIY_EFI@lists.diy-efi.org'" <DIY_EFI@lists.diy-efi.org>
Subject: Nissan ECU!?!?!
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 09:51:26 -0500 
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Did he say JECS repairer!?!?

Oh, I have been a lurker here forever waiting for something like this to pop
up! 
Lachlan has gotten my attention with that post.

I have been trying to hack the '91 240SX ECU here forever, as I am a cheap
dude who doesn't want to pay Jim Wolf Technologies the $700 they are
asking....

I am REAL interested in anything you have to say about the A12-001 B57 [3]
Nissan JECS ECU....

Thanks!


Scott Bowen
Houston, TX 77034

Cut with an axe, beat to fit, paint to match.
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 09:22:51 2001
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From: "Malte Struebert" <mail@maltestruebert.de>
To: <DIY_EFI@lists.diy-efi.org>
Subject: Honda PGM-FI disassembler or so?!
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 18:23:18 +0200
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Hallo,

does anyone know where i can find a disassembler for the OKI M66x301
microprocessor for the Honda PGM-FI ECU???

or is there another way to find out what the code in the eprom stands for or
how the ECU programm work?

hope anyone could help me because there are very less information about the
Honda ECU on the net.

thanks
Malte.

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 09:26:04 2001
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Yaz
I posted an acrobat file of some NTK sensor info on the FTP site a couple of
months ago.  I believe it was labeled "NTK."
S. Prince

Yaz zo wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Is there someone who can help me to acquire the NTK UEGO sensor datasheet
> (may send large info directly to yazzoe@hotmail.com)?
>
> Or can point out where to find it?
>
> Thanks,
> Yaz
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
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--
STEWART PRINCE

PROFESSOR, MECHANICAL ENGINEERING

CALIFORNIA STATE UNIVERSITY, NORTHRIDGE


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 09:28:54 2001
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Subject: WB misc Part Numbers
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The box I'm using for my WB is a Radio Shack 270-1806
Standoffs to mount the board on the inside of the lid are  276-195a, and
then the 12 wire barrier is a 274-680.

Bruce

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 09:32:47 2001
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The issue of condensation, has been covered, but, for the folks too busy to
read the archives.
You want to set the sensor's mounting so that condensation, can't accumulate
around the sensor.  So post converter might be a bad idea long term, since
in some weather conditions a cold start means blowing the condensation from
the converter core past an as yet warming sensor.
Bruce


----- Original Message -----
From: "Programmer" <nwester@eidnet.org>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: Pictures of DIY-WB


> I haven't looked at what you guys have built yet, but
> have you thought about getting water up the pipe ?? Happens on ours all
the
> time---we use a small old style
> Ford inline fuel filter( 1/8"pipe thread x 5/16" nipple) to trap the
chunks
> and it actually retains a little water.
>
> Lyndon.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>; "GM-ECM List" <gmecm@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 7:44 AM
> Subject: Re: Pictures of DIY-WB
>
>
> >
> > I've been thinking of on my next *pipe*  to go with the smallest
diameter
> > they have, and much shorter on the outboard part of the tubing.   It
just
> > seems that, as long as the engine is running there will be more exhuast
> > pressure then atmosphere, so dilution shouldn't be a problem.
> > Bruce
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: "rr" <rrauscher@nni.com>
> > Subject: Re: Pictures of DIY-WB
> > > This is great news Mark. The stinger looks neat also. Can
> > > see why you get looks & chuckling. I had one guy ask who
> > > I was trying to email when he saw the cable taped to the
> > > side of the car leading into the back window.
> > > BobR.
> >
> > > On Wed, 5 Sep 2001 00:10:54 -0400
> > >  "Mark S. Riley" <turbotuneusltd@triad.rr.com> wrote:
> > > > I've posted 3 pictures I took this afternoon of the
> > > > DIY-WB next to the
> > > > Horiba.
> > > > http://www.turbotuneusltd.nstemp.com/wideband/
> > > > Shows the 2 bonger tail pipe stinger. Should have seen
> > > > the kids laughing at
> > > > it when we went to lunch.
> > > > From the little bit I been able to drive it today, it's a
> > > > very close match
> > > > to the Horiba. The Horiba is displaying down to the
> > > > hundreth of an air fuel
> > > > ratio. This is much finer than the hundreths of a volt
> > > > shown on the meter.
> > > > But looking at the voltage to a/f chart so far everything
> > > > matches very well.
> > > > Warm up time is about 35-40 seconds. Just a little bit
> > > > longer than the
> > > > Horiba. I added 2 led's to show power for the 2 power
> > > > leads.
> > > > later, Mark
> >
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 09:42:12 2001
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References: <EIEMJPCIEIKFMHCCNNMBKEEOCFAA.jmeager@bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Aussie Group Purchase
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 11:42:21 -0500
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No.   It's a consideration of reason.  I believe that when the offer was
made it should have been accepted or rejected by the reader.  But, righteous
indignation got in the way.  Nasty thing, that.

My opinion:

My understanding is that the boards were to be handled at cost.

The offer to sell parts at a markup was an offered service.  Totally
different situation.

The board deal was a very nice gesture and I'm sure appreciated by the
Aussies.

The parts deal should have been handled away from the list, only because
it's commercial.  I gather that was appreciated by some.

We in the states take so much for granted that we sometimes go off half
cocked (I did.)   I see the error of my ways.

Of course I'm one of those that does make misteaks.

dh



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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 09:50:27 2001
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Stewart Prince wrote:
> 
> Yaz
> I posted an acrobat file of some NTK sensor info on the FTP site a couple of
> months ago.  I believe it was labeled "NTK."
> S. Prince

Is this it?

   ftp://ftp.diy-efi.org/incoming/NTK_uego.pdf

(About 3.9 meg.)

-- 
Eric Fahlgren                            Mechanical Dynamics, Inc
efahl@adams.com                          Ann Arbor, Michigan, USA
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 10:46:56 2001
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That's it.  It contains the "typical" wire hookup, etc. as well as the air fuel
ratio vs voltage for the ntk with their controller.  The curve fit is the red
scribble on tip.

Eric Fahlgren wrote:

> Stewart Prince wrote:
> >
> > Yaz
> > I posted an acrobat file of some NTK sensor info on the FTP site a couple of
> > months ago.  I believe it was labeled "NTK."
> > S. Prince
>
> Is this it?
>
>    ftp://ftp.diy-efi.org/incoming/NTK_uego.pdf
>
> (About 3.9 meg.)
>
> --
> Eric Fahlgren                            Mechanical Dynamics, Inc
> efahl@adams.com                          Ann Arbor, Michigan, USA
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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--
STEWART PRINCE

PROFESSOR, MECHANICAL ENGINEERING

CALIFORNIA STATE UNIVERSITY, NORTHRIDGE


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 11:32:45 2001
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Subject: Re: DIY-WB boards status and AU orders UPDATE read this
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
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Bob,
Thanks for the breath of fresh air.
Neil

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 12:33:14 2001
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Subject: WB assembly guestion
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Is epoxing the 5W resistor to the lid of the project box OK?.
Bruce





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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 12:55:55 2001
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From: "Santi Udomkesmalee" <scathontiphat@hotmail.com>
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: Digital Tach and Newbie!
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 19:55:14 +0000
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>Since RPM seems to not need high accuracy you could do it with a LED array 
>of say
>50 LED's for an accuracy of 120RPM and a range of 6000RPM...how does that 
>sound? I
>guess it would start to get expensive WRT the drivers but leds are 
>cheapish.

That sounds like a great solution, but I don't know where to start.  Where 
is a good place to pick up signal that I'll be dealing with.  To give you an 
Idea of my experience so far, let me tell you a little bit about myself.  I 
am currently a sophomore attending Cornell University as a physics major.  
Over the summer I did get some experience programming the AltiVec unit on 
the G4 processor and doing some code vectorization.  I know a lot about 
cars, but their electronics are quite foreign to me.  My Car experience 
includes taking an ASE certified course in Automotive Performance, and I 
have also restored a '68 Caddy Deville Convt.  In terms of electronics I am 
currently taking a course on circuits and such, but the year has just 
started, and I have yet to learn anything useful.  As of now I can put 
electronics together, but I have little to no understanding of designing 
circuits, and what the specific parts do.

That being said, is anyone out there willing to help be design and implement 
this "led" tach?  I would greatly appreciate it.

I hope that in the future, I will be able to contribute much more to this 
group.  I am about to join the Cornell SAE Formula team (which for those of 
you don't know, is an competition in which school build a race car from 
scratch, and race with other schools.)  This car's EFI system is also 
designed and implemented from scratch.  This is the part of the team which I 
am most interested, and hopefully once I have some experience with that I 
can contribute to the group, instead of just asking questions.

So, if anybody is willing to help me with this tach, i'd really appreciate 
it!

-Santi Udomkesmalee (sorry for rambling)

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 13:08:07 2001
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From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: WB assembly guestion
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 13:12:02 -0700
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Hi Bruce,

I wouldn't do that as a 5W resistor can get too hot to touch.  If you
want to heatsink the resistor hold it to the box with a small clip or
bracket.

Regards,

John Dammeyer

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org] On
Behalf Of Bruce
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 12:33 PM
To: gmecm@diy-efi.org; diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: WB assembly guestion



Is epoxing the 5W resistor to the lid of the project box OK?. Bruce





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On Tue, 5 Sep 2000 15:33:08 -0400 "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net> writes:
> 
> Is epoxing the 5W resistor to the lid of the project box OK?.

A bit unconventional, but you might get away with it. Might not. Some
epoxies soften just below the boiling point of water, but IIRC most are
starting to lose their strength as low as 150F. Plus, they aren't known
for being the best heat-conductive material.

If you find it doesn't work out, you can get some 5W resistors that are
meant to bolt  on a heat sink or chassis. Then you can also use some good
heatsink grease. I'm using some I got from digikey. Go to their website
and try this number:

TMC5-1.0-ND

Get some tiny screws (#4 or smaller?), some heatsink grease, and you
should be set.

Brian
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From: "Jim Yeagley" <jyeag@core.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <200108310028.f7V0Ssg04289@flywheel.innovative.iinet.net.au> <0e4001c13210$d9787420$0100a8c0@jim>
Subject: Programming_101.zip
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Seems there's a problem in the first text file of the archive.  Thanks to
the few who've brought that to my attention.

I did the editing at work, and carried it home on I guess a bogus floppy.
I'll be back there in a week, and get the archive replaced asap.

Sorry,

Jim Yeagley

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 14:15:30 2001
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To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: Ernst den Broeder <edenbroe@cisco.com>
Subject: Re: WB assembly guestion
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At 01:32 PM 9/5/2001 -0700, you wrote:

>On Tue, 5 Sep 2000 15:33:08 -0400 "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net> writes:
> >
> > Is epoxing the 5W resistor to the lid of the project box OK?.

Loctite 384 is a thermal conductive adhesive...  I use it all the time in 
our environmental lab at work.

-Ernst


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 15:11:42 2001
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I prefer to use RTV. It is also a heat conductive compound. Just
be sure that you use the sensor safe material <g>. (ultra copper
is my favorite).

BobR.


Bruce wrote:

> Is epoxing the 5W resistor to the lid of the project box OK?.
> Bruce
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 15:11:31 2001
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You guys just don't get it, do you? If anyone wants to charge for
'helping out', then they should bow out. It is that simple. Why does
money need to change hands for 'helping out'.

BobR.


Jeff Meager wrote:

> Agreed.....
>
> Must be an Aussie thing....
>
> Jeff
>
> Perth, Australia
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of Don DRI05 Ricciardiello
> Sent: Wednesday, 5 September 2001 12:41 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: Aussie Group Purchase
>
> Well said.......
>
> Don
>
> Sydney, Australia
>
> From: Geoff Swavley <geoffs@radx.net>@diy-efi.org on 05/09/2001 13:56
>
> Please respond to diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>
> Sent by:  owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org
>
> To:   diy efi <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> cc:
> Subject:  Re: Aussie Group Purchase
>
> I am an Aussie, and am grateful to Peter for offering the service.
> It would cost me waaaaaaaay more than $20 to take time off work
> and dick around with various parts vendors and paperwork. Peter
> is *saving* me money in offering to amortise the whole operation
> into one central deal.
>
> I fully appreciate people not making money from the  design testing
> etc ... as I understand it Peter is just asking for some compensation
> for the work involved in sourcing and bringing in things from the USA
> which I do all of the time for both of my Pontiacs .. .and it is a pain
> to have to deal with customs or even take time off work to venture to
> the nearest post office when they decide to open to collect things.
> On these days I don't even get to work until 10:30am.
>
> 'nuff said.
>
> geoffs :-)
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Geoff Swavley                       Email : geoffs@radx.net
> UNIX Sys Admin                      Snail : Level 8, 10 Valentine Ave,
> Support and Network Operations              Parramatta   NSW   2150
> Dept of Land and Water Conservation         Sydney  Australia
>                                             Phone : 61-2-98957125
> http://www.radx.net/~geoffs                 Fax   : 61-2-98957086
> Mobile: 61-425-224475 / 61-2-83004475       Home  : 61-2-83389510
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 15:14:10 2001
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Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 10:12:13 +1200
From: Lachlan <lpgb@xtra.co.nz>
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Well, hi to you too! :)  no not a thing! LOL most of the computers I worked on were
usually up to about 88 or so since the older the more prone to die so the bulk of what
we worked on would have been 5 years and older and of course all sorts of things came
our way like a unit out of a ferrari ummm.... what was it again????...magneti
marelli???? memory fails ...AGAIN! DOH.....fixed it though

Actually if it is a jecs unit I may have some insight, what is the problem.....? I
think they used to blow injector drivers and get lots of opens and I seems to remember
fixing lots of burnt tracks.....there was also a proprietry controller that would die
and we could not get replacements other than from other dead units......

Lachlan.

------------

Hi Lachlan,

Know anything about the 1991 Nissan Pulsar GTi-R? :-)


Chris
also a newbie

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 15:15:48 2001
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From: "Yaz zo" <yazzoe@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: sensor datasheet
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Thanks!

>
>Yaz
>I posted an acrobat file of some NTK sensor info on the FTP site a >couple 
>of
>months ago.  I believe it was labeled "NTK."
>S. Prince
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 15:25:56 2001
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Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 16:26:12 -0600 (MDT)
From: Steven Ciciora <ciciora@Ciciora.com>
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 Well, two weeks ago, I said I would take requests for the parts kit until
today, but I forgot to post a 'last minute' reminder yesterday, so I'll
take requests via the web site (http://208.37.117.207/kits.html) until
tomorrow evning.  Currently there are 297 requests (more than the 25 to 50
that I guessed!  I hope all these people follow through and actually pay
for their requests!  I don't need _that_ many extra parts!), and not many
have been added the last day or two.  Please forgive me for not emailing
confirmations, that's a lot of typeing to do!  I hope to do that some time
next week.
  I won't know the final price until after I order parts, but currently it
looks like it's going to be less than $13/kit plus shipping. This kit does
not include the sensor, enclosure, terminal strip, etc.  Only the items
listed on the web site that are available from Digikey.  The items listed
are only the items that mount on the PCB.  There were some suggestions
about including a box in the group buy, but I chickend out. I'd hate to
choose a box that won't fit someone else's display unit that might get
made.
  - Steven Ciciora


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 16:11:01 2001
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From: "Raymond Brantley" <raymond@iwantperformance.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: WB02 Parts Kits update
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 18:14:14 -0500
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Thanks for the update Steven !!!


Raymond

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Steven Ciciora
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 5:26 PM
To: gmecm@diy-efi.org; diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: WB02 Parts Kits update


 Well, two weeks ago, I said I would take requests for the parts kit until
today, but I forgot to post a 'last minute' reminder yesterday, so I'll
take requests via the web site (http://208.37.117.207/kits.html) until
tomorrow evning.  Currently there are 297 requests (more than the 25 to 50
that I guessed!  I hope all these people follow through and actually pay
for their requests!  I don't need _that_ many extra parts!), and not many
have been added the last day or two.  Please forgive me for not emailing
confirmations, that's a lot of typeing to do!  I hope to do that some time
next week.
  I won't know the final price until after I order parts, but currently it
looks like it's going to be less than $13/kit plus shipping. This kit does
not include the sensor, enclosure, terminal strip, etc.  Only the items
listed on the web site that are available from Digikey.  The items listed
are only the items that mount on the PCB.  There were some suggestions
about including a box in the group buy, but I chickend out. I'd hate to
choose a box that won't fit someone else's display unit that might get
made.
  - Steven Ciciora


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 16:20:32 2001
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How refreshing.
Thanks Steve
Bruce


From: "Steven Ciciora" <ciciora@Ciciora.com>
Subject: WB02 Parts Kits update
> Well, two weeks ago, I said I would take requests for the parts kit until
> today, but I forgot to post a 'last minute' reminder yesterday, so I'll
> take requests via the web site (http://208.37.117.207/kits.html) until
> tomorrow evning.  Currently there are 297 requests (more than the 25 to 50
> that I guessed!  I hope all these people follow through and actually pay
> for their requests!  I don't need _that_ many extra parts!), and not many
> have been added the last day or two.  Please forgive me for not emailing
> confirmations, that's a lot of typeing to do!  I hope to do that some time
> next week.
>   I won't know the final price until after I order parts, but currently it
> looks like it's going to be less than $13/kit plus shipping. This kit does
> not include the sensor, enclosure, terminal strip, etc.  Only the items
> listed on the web site that are available from Digikey.  The items listed
> are only the items that mount on the PCB.  There were some suggestions
> about including a box in the group buy, but I chickend out. I'd hate to
> choose a box that won't fit someone else's display unit that might get
> made.
>   - Steven Ciciora

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 16:41:17 2001
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From: "Hugh Keir" <hugh@sol.co.uk>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <20010829195726.60241.qmail@web14601.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #718 - knock sensor / Autospeed articles /  water injection / dynos etc
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 00:34:59 +0100
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Just read the Autospeed articles by Tim White which are based on his
Bachelor of Engineering thesis presented in November 1999 to the University
of New South Wales School of Mechanical and Manufacturing Engineering.

Any one know if copies are available from Tim or the University or are in
the public domain so we can speak about them?

The title of his thesis is:- "The Effect of Spark-Knock on the Performance
of a Modern Spark-Ignition Engine'.

The first page of each of the three parts of the article can be found at the
following links. To see the remainder of each part you have to subscribe to
Autospeed.

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0587/page1.html

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0594/page1.html

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0601/page1.html

The article talks about the types of sensors used in his tests. Conclusions
are drawn in a number of areas including whether power is still rising in
high compression engines at the onset of knock.

The article also presents a table that shows amongst other things the number
of °C effect of intake temperature etc that = 1 octane of fuel, allowing you
to estimate the cost of reducing the various temperatures etc versus higher
octane fuel and the cost of the modifications ( intercooler, water inj etc )
to your car.

On a turbocharged car ( well mine anyway ) where you are tuning for more
power you will at some point want to increase the boost and optimise the
ignition and fuel. This will have obvious consequences on inlet temperature
and the dreaded " knock ".

The site http://www.aquamist.co.uk/dc/technic/technic.html shows a graph
that backs up many of the results found by Tim White in the Autospeed
article. The lines on the graph show cylinder pressure against crankshaft
angle. It caught my eye that the area under the curve for the water injected
( blue line ) setup was significantly greater than the detonating ( red and
yellow ) and the non detonating ( green line), which must mean significantly
more power from a water injection setup.

Water injection has now become a must have on my shopping list.

The following articles show a DIY water injection kit:-

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0527/page1.html  part 1

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0534/P_1/article.html  part 2

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0574/P_1/article.html part 3

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0578/P_1/article.html part 4

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0589/P_1/article.html part 5

http://www.autospeed.com/site/autospeed/images/0574_00.jpg shows a picture
of the board

http://www.autospeed.com/cgi-bin/browse.cgi?category=705&product=1280 - buy
the kit for AU$ 107.25 = US $58

The DIY-WB has given me and I am sure others ( as soon as the boards and
group buy parts are ready ) a fantastic opportunity to have a real go at
optimising the performance ( don't know if my soldering is good enough yet
but I'm sure gonna find out ) of our vehicles in a way that was previously
never possible.

Mix in a little of one of the following pieces of dyno ( sorry but I just
don't want to do it on a rolling road, I want to do it myself )  software or
possibly a datalog from my as yet unpurchased ECU.

On Track Dyno       http://www.ontrackdigital.com/generic.html?pid=4
Road Dyno            http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/roaddyno/dyno.htm
Revtrigger             http://www.students.tut.fi/~eppu/bin/rev.html#Updates

I have also found this self build datalogger
http://www.geocities.com/93notch/EMS/ , though not sure how useful it might
be.

Only one thing missing in my life , ( well that I can admit to )  a
.......... DIY KNOCK SENSOR .......... any thoughts possibly a modified
version of the SAAB unit http://www.geocities.com/tv41mxa/tweakyourapc.html
or
http://web.inter.nl.net/users/turbo-team-europe/apc.htm or
http://www.users.qwest.net/~qed/volvoapc/index.html

With all the individuals that want to spoil the party and seem unable to say
thanks to the DIY_WB team and abide by their rules,  its hard to believe
that there would be enough enthusiasm to do a DIY knock sensor, but maybe
just maybe.

This is a long post to get to the point that I am passionately interested in
tuning my vehicle not because I race or want to show off or have any
commercial interest, but because I care about how well I have made it run
with tools available to me.

Bruce and the team I take my hat of to you for your selfless efforts to
bring the DIY-WB project to it's conclusion.

I hope that I can do you justice by building the boards myself and reporting
on how I have improved things on my vehicle.

I also hope I may have some skill that you will find useful in the future.

Hugh


----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Agnello" <m_agnello@yahoo.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 8:57 PM
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #718 - knock sensor


>
> > > TVS wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I assume the frequency has some dependence on
> > variables
> > > > like bore diameter and combustion chamber shape,
> > but is the knock detection
> > > > circuitry likely to 'listen' for a wide range of
> > frequency's or just a
> > > > narrow band?
> > >
>
> These are just educated guesses, but I suspect they
> apply.  Detonation is closely coupled to the pressure
> wave in the combustion chamber.  The pressure wave is
> an acoustic event.  As such, it should be influenced
> by the geometry of the combustion chamber at the
> instant of the event.  The dominant mode's wavelength
> will probably be proportional to the cylinder bore.
>
> If the event timespan is too short to propagate
> laterally, then the dominant mode will probably be
> related to the combustion chamber height at the time
> of the event.  Even if there is a lateral mode, I
> wonder if the high frequency content in a knock signal
> is due to the vertical mode(s)?
>
> WRT the cylinder head and/or block structure
> influencing the dominant frequencies, I agree there
> will be some interaction.  Unlike the 10 Hz bell
> analogy, I don't believe there will be a dominant
> vibrational mode of the engine structure.  These
> structures are too complex to have a primary mode and
> I'll bet auto manufacturers spend a lot of time
> designing engine structures that don't have
> significant vibrational modes.  I know aircraft engine
> manufacturers do this.  If they didn't, the life of
> the engine mounted fuel pumps, actuators, sensors, and
> accessories would be severely shortened.
>
> What do y'all think?  Remember, I'm just a lonely old
> EE that likes to read SF.;)
>
> Autospeed published an article based on an Aussie grad
> student's research into engine knock earlier this
> year.  Does anyone have a copy and does it shed light
> on this issue?
>
>
> =====
> Mark Agnello
> Washington Crossing, PA (USA)
> 88 Toyota Celica All Trac Turbo (restoration project)
> 92 Toyota Celica All Trac Turbo
> 96 Honda VFR
> 89 Honda Hawk GT (restoration project)
>
> __________________________________________________
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>
>


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 16:44:33 2001
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From: "David Hunt" <dhunt16@yahoo.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <EIEMJPCIEIKFMHCCNNMBKEEOCFAA.jmeager@bigpond.com> <3B96A404.857BB3BC@nni.com>
Subject: Re: Aussie Group Purchase
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 18:44:48 -0500
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You don't get it.

What if it does?

dh
----- Original Message -----
From: "rr" <RRauscher@nni.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: Aussie Group Purchase


>
> You guys just don't get it, do you? If anyone wants to charge for
> 'helping out', then they should bow out. It is that simple. Why does
> money need to change hands for 'helping out'.
>
> BobR.
>
>
> Jeff Meager wrote:
>
> > Agreed.....
> >
> > Must be an Aussie thing....
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> > Perth, Australia
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> > Behalf Of Don DRI05 Ricciardiello
> > Sent: Wednesday, 5 September 2001 12:41 PM
> > To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > Subject: Re: Aussie Group Purchase
> >
> > Well said.......
> >
> > Don
> >
> > Sydney, Australia
> >
> > From: Geoff Swavley <geoffs@radx.net>@diy-efi.org on 05/09/2001 13:56
> >
> > Please respond to diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> >
> > Sent by:  owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> >
> > To:   diy efi <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> > cc:
> > Subject:  Re: Aussie Group Purchase
> >
> > I am an Aussie, and am grateful to Peter for offering the service.
> > It would cost me waaaaaaaay more than $20 to take time off work
> > and dick around with various parts vendors and paperwork. Peter
> > is *saving* me money in offering to amortise the whole operation
> > into one central deal.
> >
> > I fully appreciate people not making money from the  design testing
> > etc ... as I understand it Peter is just asking for some compensation
> > for the work involved in sourcing and bringing in things from the USA
> > which I do all of the time for both of my Pontiacs .. .and it is a pain
> > to have to deal with customs or even take time off work to venture to
> > the nearest post office when they decide to open to collect things.
> > On these days I don't even get to work until 10:30am.
> >
> > 'nuff said.
> >
> > geoffs :-)
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > Geoff Swavley                       Email : geoffs@radx.net
> > UNIX Sys Admin                      Snail : Level 8, 10 Valentine Ave,
> > Support and Network Operations              Parramatta   NSW   2150
> > Dept of Land and Water Conservation         Sydney  Australia
> >                                             Phone : 61-2-98957125
> > http://www.radx.net/~geoffs                 Fax   : 61-2-98957086
> > Mobile: 61-425-224475 / 61-2-83004475       Home  : 61-2-83389510
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 16:58:23 2001
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Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 18:53:02 -0500
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Santi Udomkesmalee wrote:

> >Since RPM seems to not need high accuracy you could do it with a LED array
> >of say
> >50 LED's for an accuracy of 120RPM and a range of 6000RPM...how does that
> >sound? I
> >guess it would start to get expensive WRT the drivers but leds are
> >cheapish.
>
> That sounds like a great solution, but I don't know where to start.  Where
> is a good place to pick up signal that I'll be dealing with.

<snip>

> So, if anybody is willing to help me with this tach, i'd really appreciate
> it!

Santi,

I'm willing to help ferret out the info required and maybe even do some
breadboarding/testing.  I once read an article about building an LED tach.  It
used the OBD2 diagnostic port on later model vehicles to retrieve this info from
the onboard computer.

As far as where to pick up the signal - I'd say via an inductive pickup on a
plug wire if interested in spark frequency at that point, in the distributor or
on the coil negative if interested in data from that point.  I like the idea of
what spark frequency the plug is seeing rather than what the computer is
delivering (or trying to deliver).  How about a device that has a feature of
multiple pickup points (other than via the diag port).

If pulling the data from the coil negative.  List - could someone describe the
voltage characteristics there.  I assume the negative side will go to zero volts
when collapsing and then what?  Float high?  What kind of spikes and current
shunts to expect?  Is opto-isolation absolutely necessary?  Thoughts on sample
rate?

Thanks!

Shane

ps - I can't remember if I mentioned it on this list but my newly installed
Edelbrock water injection system is warding off detonation (especially on hot
days) nicely but I'd have to say that my initial impression is not as good as
expected.  I was wanting to drop all the way down to 87 octane but not sure that
is gonna happen.  Mopars MP computer adds about 15 degrees more timing and I
installed my R/T camshaft at 4 degrees advanced.  Pulling 5000+lb out of the
hole on a hot summer day w/out the water is on the edge of detonating w/93
octane.  I'm now successfully running 89 octane w/very little detonation (still
need to tune the water setup).  The most noticeable difference is that WOT on a
hot day now feels like WOT on a cold day w/the water on.

--
'96 IndyRam-HisIndy-MPI TB Pulleys RTcam MPComp HVoilpump DynaGearDoubleRoller
WindageTray CompTAs
'96 IndyRam-HerIndy-numbered(#142)"Track Truck"
'74 Triple-Black Dodge Challenger Rallye 360 EFI R&D vehicle
'93 Dakota LE CC 318 - newest acquisition


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 17:06:11 2001
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Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 19:06:14 -0500
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Mark,

I believe that Stoich is a chemical term for complete combustion.

dh


----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark S. Riley" <turbotuneusltd@triad.rr.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 11:16 PM
Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...


> Stoich is not 100% utilization of the O2. Stoich is the point at which the
> gas emissions are the lowest and highest. I'll have to break out a book,
> can't remember  the exact numbers but stoichimetric is not neccessarily
> where you might want to run your engine. But it does give the lowest
> emissions there. So, that's why the all the OEM's are so concerned with
it.
> And that's why O2 sensors and all fuel air meters currently used are so
> concerned with it.
> As for the range 10:1 to approximately 22:1 is not really where gas
engines
> run. Quite frequently meters will read over a far larger range than what
is
> neccessary or wanted. I think the fact that the sensor will read to
20/22:1
> is like the air conditioning freon sniffers. I have one of those that is
so
> sensitive, the manufactor claims it will detect a 1 OZ. per year leak. Any
> idea what that kind of ratio that might be, 5 million to 1 or something
> ridiculous. Gasoline engine will run fairly reliably in the range of
11.5:1
> up to 16.5:1. Numbers that low don't make max power and numbers that high
> can't make much but it will run. I don't think anyone has every come close
> to 100% utilization of the O2. Top Fuel might be the closest but I still
> think they have a long way to go to 100%. later, Mark
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Dammeyer" <johnd@autoartisans.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 10:21 PM
> Subject: RE: DIY-WB... It's alive...
>
>
> > Good description but if the Stoich is 100% utilization of the O2 in the
> > mixture how does the catalyst burn off the HC.  Or is that why the WB
> > sensors don't do much better than 10:1 AF ratio whereas they can go
> > considerably further in the lean direction?
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org] On
> > Behalf Of rr
> > Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2001 5:15 PM
> > To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...
> >
> >
> >
> > As mentioned the O2 sensor responds first & foremost to O2. When the
> > exhaust is stoich, the partial pressure of O2 in the atmosphere will
> > cause the O2 sensor to generate ~450mV. In order for the O2 sensor to
> > detect a rich condition, there is a platinum coating on the sensor cone.
> >
> > Platinum being the catalyst it is will burn off the HC by pulling O2
> > through the porus cone. This action generates a voltage > 450mV.
> >
> > BobR.
> >
> > John Dammeyer wrote:
> >
> > > I have a question about O2 sensors in general.  On a fuel injection
> > > setup where the ignition has a bad miss or even fails for a 1/4 second
> >
> > > while injection continues,  will the O2 sensor go rich because the
> > > fuel isn't being burnt or lean because the O2 is still in the mixture.
> > >
> > > That then begs the question.  If the Stochimetric condition is when
> > > all the O2 used to burn all the fuel,  how can it ever show a rich
> > > condition?
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > John Dammeyer
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > <snip>
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > ----
> > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the
> > quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to
> > majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> >
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 17:14:34 2001
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References: <EIEMJPCIEIKFMHCCNNMBKEEOCFAA.jmeager@bigpond.com> <3B96A404.857BB3BC@nni.com> <002301c13664$c0abd240$0300a8c0@home.com>
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Integrity is lacking.

BobR.


David Hunt wrote:

> You don't get it.
>
> What if it does?
>
> dh
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "rr" <RRauscher@nni.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 5:15 PM
> Subject: Re: Aussie Group Purchase
>
> >
> > You guys just don't get it, do you? If anyone wants to charge for
> > 'helping out', then they should bow out. It is that simple. Why does
> > money need to change hands for 'helping out'.
> >
> > BobR.
> >
> >
> > Jeff Meager wrote:
> >
> > > Agreed.....
> > >
> > > Must be an Aussie thing....
> > >
> > > Jeff
> > >
> > > Perth, Australia
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> > > Behalf Of Don DRI05 Ricciardiello
> > > Sent: Wednesday, 5 September 2001 12:41 PM
> > > To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > > Subject: Re: Aussie Group Purchase
> > >
> > > Well said.......
> > >
> > > Don
> > >
> > > Sydney, Australia
> > >
> > > From: Geoff Swavley <geoffs@radx.net>@diy-efi.org on 05/09/2001 13:56
> > >
> > > Please respond to diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > >
> > > Sent by:  owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > >
> > > To:   diy efi <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> > > cc:
> > > Subject:  Re: Aussie Group Purchase
> > >
> > > I am an Aussie, and am grateful to Peter for offering the service.
> > > It would cost me waaaaaaaay more than $20 to take time off work
> > > and dick around with various parts vendors and paperwork. Peter
> > > is *saving* me money in offering to amortise the whole operation
> > > into one central deal.
> > >
> > > I fully appreciate people not making money from the  design testing
> > > etc ... as I understand it Peter is just asking for some compensation
> > > for the work involved in sourcing and bringing in things from the USA
> > > which I do all of the time for both of my Pontiacs .. .and it is a pain
> > > to have to deal with customs or even take time off work to venture to
> > > the nearest post office when they decide to open to collect things.
> > > On these days I don't even get to work until 10:30am.
> > >
> > > 'nuff said.
> > >
> > > geoffs :-)
> > >
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > Geoff Swavley                       Email : geoffs@radx.net
> > > UNIX Sys Admin                      Snail : Level 8, 10 Valentine Ave,
> > > Support and Network Operations              Parramatta   NSW   2150
> > > Dept of Land and Water Conservation         Sydney  Australia
> > >                                             Phone : 61-2-98957125
> > > http://www.radx.net/~geoffs                 Fax   : 61-2-98957086
> > > Mobile: 61-425-224475 / 61-2-83004475       Home  : 61-2-83389510
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 17:17:49 2001
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Subject: Re: sensor datasheet
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: "Don DRI05 Ricciardiello" <dricciardiello@qantas.com.au>
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 10:18:01 +1000
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My browser won't display that page by clicking the link. Looking at the URL
by taking off the last part of the address finds a file listed called "NGK
uego.pdf" which won't download either. Any clues?

Don




From: Eric Fahlgren <efahl@adams.com>@diy-efi.org on 05/09/2001 12:50 AST

Please respond to diy_efi@diy-efi.org

Sent by:  owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org


To:   diy_efi@diy-efi.org
cc:
Subject:  Re: sensor datasheet


Stewart Prince wrote:
>
> Yaz
> I posted an acrobat file of some NTK sensor info on the FTP site a couple
of
> months ago.  I believe it was labeled "NTK."
> S. Prince

Is this it?

   ftp://ftp.diy-efi.org/incoming/NTK_uego.pdf

(About 3.9 meg.)

--
Eric Fahlgren                            Mechanical Dynamics, Inc
efahl@adams.com                          Ann Arbor, Michigan, USA
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 17:22:24 2001
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Subject: Re: Digital Tach and Newbie!
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 19:22:29 -0500
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At the coil the voltage goes to zero when the points (or replacement) goes
near zero volts.  When the current is interrupted the voltage goes quite far
below zero.  Then the voltage goes quite far above 12 Volts.  You can used
an RC in front of a zener to get control of this signal and provide it to
the further signal.

dh




----- Original Message -----
From: "Shane Moseley" <smoseley@ix.netcom.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 6:53 PM
Subject: Re: Digital Tach and Newbie!


> Santi Udomkesmalee wrote:
>
> > >Since RPM seems to not need high accuracy you could do it with a LED
array
> > >of say
> > >50 LED's for an accuracy of 120RPM and a range of 6000RPM...how does
that
> > >sound? I
> > >guess it would start to get expensive WRT the drivers but leds are
> > >cheapish.
> >
> > That sounds like a great solution, but I don't know where to start.
Where
> > is a good place to pick up signal that I'll be dealing with.
>
> <snip>
>
> > So, if anybody is willing to help me with this tach, i'd really
appreciate
> > it!
>
> Santi,
>
> I'm willing to help ferret out the info required and maybe even do some
> breadboarding/testing.  I once read an article about building an LED tach.
It
> used the OBD2 diagnostic port on later model vehicles to retrieve this
info from
> the onboard computer.
>
> As far as where to pick up the signal - I'd say via an inductive pickup on
a
> plug wire if interested in spark frequency at that point, in the
distributor or
> on the coil negative if interested in data from that point.  I like the
idea of
> what spark frequency the plug is seeing rather than what the computer is
> delivering (or trying to deliver).  How about a device that has a feature
of
> multiple pickup points (other than via the diag port).
>
> If pulling the data from the coil negative.  List - could someone describe
the
> voltage characteristics there.  I assume the negative side will go to zero
volts
> when collapsing and then what?  Float high?  What kind of spikes and
current
> shunts to expect?  Is opto-isolation absolutely necessary?  Thoughts on
sample
> rate?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Shane
>
> ps - I can't remember if I mentioned it on this list but my newly
installed
> Edelbrock water injection system is warding off detonation (especially on
hot
> days) nicely but I'd have to say that my initial impression is not as good
as
> expected.  I was wanting to drop all the way down to 87 octane but not
sure that
> is gonna happen.  Mopars MP computer adds about 15 degrees more timing and
I
> installed my R/T camshaft at 4 degrees advanced.  Pulling 5000+lb out of
the
> hole on a hot summer day w/out the water is on the edge of detonating w/93
> octane.  I'm now successfully running 89 octane w/very little detonation
(still
> need to tune the water setup).  The most noticeable difference is that WOT
on a
> hot day now feels like WOT on a cold day w/the water on.
>
> --
> '96 IndyRam-HisIndy-MPI TB Pulleys RTcam MPComp HVoilpump
DynaGearDoubleRoller
> WindageTray CompTAs
> '96 IndyRam-HerIndy-numbered(#142)"Track Truck"
> '74 Triple-Black Dodge Challenger Rallye 360 EFI R&D vehicle
> '93 Dakota LE CC 318 - newest acquisition
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 17:44:35 2001
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From: "David Hunt" <bamainc@home.com>
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Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 19:44:20 -0500
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You are correct.

dh
----- Original Message -----
From: "terryk" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...


> If you disconnect the sensor, the pin reads 450mV, right? This means the
> bias is from the ECM.
>
> Correct me if I'm wrong.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "rr" <RRauscher@nni.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 7:06 AM
> Subject: Re: DIY-WB... It's alive...
>
>
> >
> > The general consensus has been that the ECM applies the bias. I have
> > not found any evidence of this. Maybe some ECMs do. My belief is
> > that the sensor that generates this voltage.
> >
> > BobR.
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 17:51:28 2001
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Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 12:49:42 +1200
From: Lachlan <lpgb@xtra.co.nz>
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Subject: JECS and Newbie!
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Oh cripes I put my foot in it didn't I?!! LOL :)

I Most of my work involved the following:

dead unit arrives, open it up and have a good look. throw it in a acetone bath with
agitator (they were the easiest to clean off the lacquer as it was quite thin,  others
like the bosch units from memory had a thick gell coating that was very hard to remove).
then if it looked fine and most of the time the problems were burnt out tracks, I would
run it up on the custom jig and see if it ran, if it did then it was simply a case of
testing that it was ROUGHLY Calibrated, re-solder the whole board, re-laquer it and send
it off. you would not believe how many computers we got that were fine or just needed a
resolder. As far as 'electronicing' goes I would endevour to trace the problems and found
ground-outs and OC's inside the couple of magic IC's on the board, these I never 'cracked'
as the company's objective was not to waste time on the odd dificult to repair units, The
big CPU IC (DIL 60-odd pins with no identifiable numbers) was certainly dead a few times
and when I had the time I would try to investigate this chip but did not get a chance
often. we were not in the business of modification and performance and this 'exploration'
was low priority. OH and legally I cannot give out a lot of details of specifics that I
learned, due to the contract I signed. We did not get into code at all, a unit either
worked or it didn't.

Mainly the JECS units I worked on were the TURBO and non-turbo  nissan 4, 6 and Commodore
VL 6. these units were all v. similar.

I hope I have not left you JECS people too disappointed. Remember also that I have not
touched/thought about/fixed one of these since 94. I do remember it being a simple and
clean unit with nice signals and easy to find faults, though I knew 99.9% of them haveing
fixed so many, I got great joy out of getting a 'unfixable' unit out of the 'dead' box and
getting it going :) usually an out of range component or a dry joint that was difficult to
find.

regards,
Lachlan

> Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 18:27:56 +1000
> From: Christian Hack <christianh@pdd.edmi.com.au>
> Subject: Re: Digital Tach and Newbie!
>
> Don't go all quiet on us Lachlan! There are a few would be JECS hackers (lurkers)
> around and given there is next to no info available on them, I'm sure anything you can
> tell us would be appreciated. Everynow and then someone asks about them.
>
> Were you mainly just repairing them? Did you have schematics at all or did
> your repairs mainly involve replacing dried out electros, fixing bad solder joints
>  etc?

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 17:52:43 2001
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Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 20:54:51 -0700
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: Brian Renegar <thomas.renegar@nist.gov>
Subject: Re: The list is busy screaming ..
In-Reply-To: <20010904.205533.158.8.blocklm@juno.com>
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Ok, fine.  DIY... so they should slap the components on themselves.  Oh but 
it's DIY... so they should source the PCB's themselves.  And it's still 
DIY, so they should do their own artwork.  Hell, since it's DIY, maybe they 
should just do the whole thing themselves!!!

You can't just arbitrarily draw the line somewhere.  It doesn't work that way.

Brian


>I'll take a stab at that by asking another rhetorical question. What's
>the difference between buying a board all built, and buying a commercial
>product? Yes, you have a disinterested party, but you also have just
>created the same as a commercial product, except for the price. The
>person has a wb now, and more cheaply, but what did he do himself? Was
>the purpose of the project to provide everyone with a cheap already built
>product? Or was it intended primarily as a DIY project?

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 17:56:43 2001
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From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: The list is busy screaming ..
Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2000 20:56:45 -0400
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Please reread the users agreement,
if you can't abide by it, and it's intent.
Then feel free not to use the info., it's that simple.
Bruce




----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Renegar" <thomas.renegar@nist.gov>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 11:54 PM
Subject: Re: The list is busy screaming ..


> Ok, fine.  DIY... so they should slap the components on themselves.  Oh
but
> it's DIY... so they should source the PCB's themselves.  And it's still
> DIY, so they should do their own artwork.  Hell, since it's DIY, maybe
they
> should just do the whole thing themselves!!!
>
> You can't just arbitrarily draw the line somewhere.  It doesn't work that
way.
>
> Brian
>
>
> >I'll take a stab at that by asking another rhetorical question. What's
> >the difference between buying a board all built, and buying a commercial
> >product? Yes, you have a disinterested party, but you also have just
> >created the same as a commercial product, except for the price. The
> >person has a wb now, and more cheaply, but what did he do himself? Was
> >the purpose of the project to provide everyone with a cheap already built
> >product? Or was it intended primarily as a DIY project?
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 18:22:44 2001
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From: "Jeff Meager" <jmeager@bigpond.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: The list is busy screaming ..
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 09:24:49 +0800
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Let's just leave it.  It's this simple.  It's their project and they can do
with it as they see fit.

Anymore jabbering and we may see the generosity fade......

Jeff

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Brian Renegar
Sent: Thursday, 6 September 2001 11:55 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: The list is busy screaming ..


Ok, fine.  DIY... so they should slap the components on themselves.  Oh but
it's DIY... so they should source the PCB's themselves.  And it's still
DIY, so they should do their own artwork.  Hell, since it's DIY, maybe they
should just do the whole thing themselves!!!

You can't just arbitrarily draw the line somewhere.  It doesn't work that
way.

Brian


>I'll take a stab at that by asking another rhetorical question. What's
>the difference between buying a board all built, and buying a commercial
>product? Yes, you have a disinterested party, but you also have just
>created the same as a commercial product, except for the price. The
>person has a wb now, and more cheaply, but what did he do himself? Was
>the purpose of the project to provide everyone with a cheap already built
>product? Or was it intended primarily as a DIY project?

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 18:33:43 2001
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Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 13:31:52 +1200
From: Lachlan <lpgb@xtra.co.nz>
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I am an advocate of simplicity and would prob not go so far as a PLC or other programable
device. Apart from the fact that I only ever did it at TAFE in Aus and would have to
'learn' it all over again!. I think that with simple components like counters and dividers
and common logic IC's you could easily do this but having said all that I would probably
end up building a multi-function device that had bar graph, digital display and a switch
to switch between different functions like temp, voltage and other non essential
readings.....but then I would start thinking aobut adding threshold warnings and if I was
going to take it even further, peak hold and data logging on a PC based device....then if
I had all the time in the world and no other projects a full blown vehicle managment
system that tried to elliminate copper in the car through the use of a bus and control
modules for each discrete unit in the car like tail lights, dash lights, engine
management.....bah bla...sorry....

you should be able to pick a nice square wave out of the ECU or ignition computer or one
of the pins but that depends and I think that another list member should have more
specific info for you and your car :)

Lachlan. (ranting)


> >Since RPM seems to not need high accuracy you could do it with a LED array
> >of say
> >50 LED's for an accuracy of 120RPM and a range of 6000RPM...how does that
> >sound? I
> >guess it would start to get expensive WRT the drivers but leds are
> >cheapish.
>
> That sounds like a great solution, but I don't know where to start.  Where
> is a good place to pick up signal that I'll be dealing with.  To give you an
> Idea of my experience so far, let me tell you a little bit about myself.  I
> am currently a sophomore attending Cornell University as a physics major.
> Over the summer I did get some experience programming the AltiVec unit on
> the G4 processor and doing some code vectorization.  I know a lot about
> cars, but their electronics are quite foreign to me.  My Car experience
> includes taking an ASE certified course in Automotive Performance, and I
> have also restored a '68 Caddy Deville Convt.  In terms of electronics I am
> currently taking a course on circuits and such, but the year has just
> started, and I have yet to learn anything useful.  As of now I can put
> electronics together, but I have little to no understanding of designing
> circuits, and what the specific parts do.
>
> That being said, is anyone out there willing to help be design and implement
> this "led" tach?  I would greatly appreciate it.

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 18:34:58 2001
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Subject: Re: Aussie Group Purchase
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Hey Dave,
release your own project, and you can set the terms.
If you want to use someone else's work, then you're subject to the terms of
the agreement to use it.
Less then that, you're the one that isn't getting it.
Bruce


----- Original Message -----
From: "David Hunt" <dhunt16@yahoo.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 7:44 PM
Subject: Re: Aussie Group Purchase


> You don't get it.
>
> What if it does?
>
> dh
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "rr" <RRauscher@nni.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 5:15 PM
> Subject: Re: Aussie Group Purchase
>
>
> >
> > You guys just don't get it, do you? If anyone wants to charge for
> > 'helping out', then they should bow out. It is that simple. Why does
> > money need to change hands for 'helping out'.
> >
> > BobR.
> >
> >
> > Jeff Meager wrote:
> >
> > > Agreed.....
> > >
> > > Must be an Aussie thing....
> > >
> > > Jeff
> > >
> > > Perth, Australia
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> > > Behalf Of Don DRI05 Ricciardiello
> > > Sent: Wednesday, 5 September 2001 12:41 PM
> > > To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > > Subject: Re: Aussie Group Purchase
> > >
> > > Well said.......
> > >
> > > Don
> > >
> > > Sydney, Australia
> > >
> > > From: Geoff Swavley <geoffs@radx.net>@diy-efi.org on 05/09/2001 13:56
> > >
> > > Please respond to diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > >
> > > Sent by:  owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> > >
> > > To:   diy efi <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> > > cc:
> > > Subject:  Re: Aussie Group Purchase
> > >
> > > I am an Aussie, and am grateful to Peter for offering the service.
> > > It would cost me waaaaaaaay more than $20 to take time off work
> > > and dick around with various parts vendors and paperwork. Peter
> > > is *saving* me money in offering to amortise the whole operation
> > > into one central deal.
> > >
> > > I fully appreciate people not making money from the  design testing
> > > etc ... as I understand it Peter is just asking for some compensation
> > > for the work involved in sourcing and bringing in things from the USA
> > > which I do all of the time for both of my Pontiacs .. .and it is a
pain
> > > to have to deal with customs or even take time off work to venture to
> > > the nearest post office when they decide to open to collect things.
> > > On these days I don't even get to work until 10:30am.
> > >
> > > 'nuff said.
> > >
> > > geoffs :-)
> > >
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > Geoff Swavley                       Email : geoffs@radx.net
> > > UNIX Sys Admin                      Snail : Level 8, 10 Valentine Ave,
> > > Support and Network Operations              Parramatta   NSW   2150
> > > Dept of Land and Water Conservation         Sydney  Australia
> > >                                             Phone : 61-2-98957125
> > > http://www.radx.net/~geoffs                 Fax   : 61-2-98957086
> > > Mobile: 61-425-224475 / 61-2-83004475       Home  : 61-2-83389510
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 18:57:10 2001
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Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2001 18:57:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Henson <hensonator@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: WB02 Parts Kits update
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.10.10109051604040.18341-100000@edison.chisp.net>
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Any chance that we can pay for the parts kits and/or
PCB's with PayPal or something similar?  It seems like
this would make life easier for everyone involved.
-Matt

>   I won't know the final price until after I order
> parts, but currently it
> looks like it's going to be less than $13/kit plus
> shipping. This kit does
> not include the sensor, enclosure, terminal strip,
> etc.  Only the items


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 19:04:49 2001
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From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <20010906015703.92476.qmail@web10008.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: WB02 Parts Kits update
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Not to start a thread on it but be real careful using paypal, both parties
may wind up wondering where the funds are
Bruce


----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Henson" <hensonator@yahoo.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: WB02 Parts Kits update


> Any chance that we can pay for the parts kits and/or
> PCB's with PayPal or something similar?  It seems like
> this would make life easier for everyone involved.
> -Matt
>
> >   I won't know the final price until after I order
> > parts, but currently it
> > looks like it's going to be less than $13/kit plus
> > shipping. This kit does
> > not include the sensor, enclosure, terminal strip,
> > etc.  Only the items
>
>
> __________________________________________________
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I have used Paypal for over a year and never had a problem. At all.

J
Jess
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 20:05 PM
Subject: Re: WB02 Parts Kits update


>
> Not to start a thread on it but be real careful using paypal, both parties
> may wind up wondering where the funds are
> Bruce
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Matt Henson" <hensonator@yahoo.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 9:57 PM
> Subject: Re: WB02 Parts Kits update
>
>
> > Any chance that we can pay for the parts kits and/or
> > PCB's with PayPal or something similar?  It seems like
> > this would make life easier for everyone involved.
> > -Matt
> >
> > >   I won't know the final price until after I order
> > > parts, but currently it
> > > looks like it's going to be less than $13/kit plus
> > > shipping. This kit does
> > > not include the sensor, enclosure, terminal strip,
> > > etc.  Only the items
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo!
> Messenger
> > http://im.yahoo.com
>
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> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 19:16:44 2001
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From: Peter Gargano <peter@techedge.com.au>
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Lachlan wrote:
> 
> I am an advocate of simplicity and would prob not go so far as a PLC or other programable
> device. Apart from the fact that I only ever did it at TAFE in Aus and would have to
> 'learn' it all over again!. I think that with simple components like counters and dividers
> and common logic IC's you could easily do this ...

Silicon Chip (SC) had a 5 digit, digital tacho in October 1997 - Sixteen 4xxx
series chips on a large PCB!!

>  ... but having said all that I would probably
> end up building a multi-function device that had bar graph, digital display and a switch
> to switch between different functions like temp, voltage and other non essential
> readings.....

SC has more recently described a 16F84 PIC based unit that's as small as the
oxygen sensor display unit I also mentioned the other week.

> but then I would start thinking aobut adding threshold warnings and if I was
> going to take it even further, peak hold and data logging on a PC based device....then if
> I had all the time in the world and no other projects a full blown vehicle managment
> system that tried to elliminate copper in the car through the use of a bus and control
> modules for each discrete unit in the car like tail lights, dash lights, engine
> management.....bah bla...sorry....

It would be simple matter to take the new SC PIC based unit and add some code
to display the extra information (I'm not offering ;-).

Peter
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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 19:33:43 2001
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Subject: Re: Digital Tach
In-Reply-To: <3B96D208.E98C79C6@xtra.co.nz> from Lachlan at "Sep 6, 2001 01:31:52
 pm"
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Lachlan tapped away at the keyboard with:

> I am an advocate of simplicity and would prob not go so far as a
> PLC or other programable device. Apart from the fact that I only
> ever did it at TAFE in Aus and would have to 'learn' it all over
> again!. I think that with simple components like counters and
> dividers and common logic IC's you could easily do this but having
> said all that I would probably end up building a multi-function
> device that had bar graph, digital display and a switch to switch

Two important questions:
How accurate does the RPM have to be (resolution and time-base)?
How frequently do you want the display to update?

The greater the "quality" of the instrument, the greater the
functional complexity.

Would it be sufficient to display the count of ignition pulses over
five 6ths of a second as hundreds of rpm? That's about the simplest
digital (counter-timer) implementation. Need faster response or
higher resolution? Then it gets more complex.

With the cost of microcontrollers quite low, you quickly arrive at
the point where it's chepaer to make it a hardware/software
combination; not quite single-chip implementation, but pretty close.
You also get the benefit of flexibility; i.e. adding on data
logging, etc without re-designing the whole instrument from scratch;
especially if you can think ahead a little and not box yourself in
with the first implementation.

> Lachlan. (ranting)
> 


-- 
 /"\  Bernd Felsche - Innovative Reckoning, Perth, Western Australia
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From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
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References: <20010829195726.60241.qmail@web14601.mail.yahoo.com> <007f01c13664$3fafcd40$b9ebb094@hugh>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #718 - knock sensor / Autospeed articles /  water injection / dynos etc
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Some hidden pearls and yes.

On the WI, I just don't see some of the ways for what they did.

They compare I/C to ambient air temp.  Why, it's a matter of MAT temp., that
reflects the potential for detonation, if your just working on the WI end of
things.
MAT as a first stage sound meaningful.
I'd think, a K/S input would be alot more beneficial.

I'm more then convinced there is no such thing as too much WI pump pressure.
If someone really wants to use a low pressure pump system, seems like
referencing the tank to the manifold would be manditory.

12v Tire pump, to an accumulator (pressure switch set to maintain 150 PSI)
air tank then NOS solenoid to presureize the water supply would seem ideal
to me.

Bruce




----- Original Message -----
From: "Hugh Keir" <hugh@sol.co.uk>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 7:34 PM
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #718 - knock sensor / Autospeed articles /
water injection / dynos etc


> Just read the Autospeed articles by Tim White which are based on his
> Bachelor of Engineering thesis presented in November 1999 to the
University
> of New South Wales School of Mechanical and Manufacturing Engineering.
>
> Any one know if copies are available from Tim or the University or are in
> the public domain so we can speak about them?
>
> The title of his thesis is:- "The Effect of Spark-Knock on the Performance
> of a Modern Spark-Ignition Engine'.
>
> The first page of each of the three parts of the article can be found at
the
> following links. To see the remainder of each part you have to subscribe
to
> Autospeed.
>
> http://www.autospeed.com/A_0587/page1.html
>
> http://www.autospeed.com/A_0594/page1.html
>
> http://www.autospeed.com/A_0601/page1.html
>
> The article talks about the types of sensors used in his tests.
Conclusions
> are drawn in a number of areas including whether power is still rising in
> high compression engines at the onset of knock.
>
> The article also presents a table that shows amongst other things the
number
> of °C effect of intake temperature etc that = 1 octane of fuel, allowing
you
> to estimate the cost of reducing the various temperatures etc versus
higher
> octane fuel and the cost of the modifications ( intercooler, water inj
etc )
> to your car.
>
> On a turbocharged car ( well mine anyway ) where you are tuning for more
> power you will at some point want to increase the boost and optimise the
> ignition and fuel. This will have obvious consequences on inlet
temperature
> and the dreaded " knock ".
>
> The site http://www.aquamist.co.uk/dc/technic/technic.html shows a graph
> that backs up many of the results found by Tim White in the Autospeed
> article. The lines on the graph show cylinder pressure against crankshaft
> angle. It caught my eye that the area under the curve for the water
injected
> ( blue line ) setup was significantly greater than the detonating ( red
and
> yellow ) and the non detonating ( green line), which must mean
significantly
> more power from a water injection setup.
>
> Water injection has now become a must have on my shopping list.
>
> The following articles show a DIY water injection kit:-
>
> http://www.autospeed.com/A_0527/page1.html  part 1
>
> http://www.autospeed.com/A_0534/P_1/article.html  part 2
>
> http://www.autospeed.com/A_0574/P_1/article.html part 3
>
> http://www.autospeed.com/A_0578/P_1/article.html part 4
>
> http://www.autospeed.com/A_0589/P_1/article.html part 5
>
> http://www.autospeed.com/site/autospeed/images/0574_00.jpg shows a picture
> of the board
>
> http://www.autospeed.com/cgi-bin/browse.cgi?category=705&product=1280 -
buy
> the kit for AU$ 107.25 = US $58
>
> The DIY-WB has given me and I am sure others ( as soon as the boards and
> group buy parts are ready ) a fantastic opportunity to have a real go at
> optimising the performance ( don't know if my soldering is good enough yet
> but I'm sure gonna find out ) of our vehicles in a way that was previously
> never possible.
>
> Mix in a little of one of the following pieces of dyno ( sorry but I just
> don't want to do it on a rolling road, I want to do it myself )  software
or
> possibly a datalog from my as yet unpurchased ECU.
>
> On Track Dyno       http://www.ontrackdigital.com/generic.html?pid=4
> Road Dyno            http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/roaddyno/dyno.htm
> Revtrigger
http://www.students.tut.fi/~eppu/bin/rev.html#Updates
>
> I have also found this self build datalogger
> http://www.geocities.com/93notch/EMS/ , though not sure how useful it
might
> be.
>
> Only one thing missing in my life , ( well that I can admit to )  a
> .......... DIY KNOCK SENSOR .......... any thoughts possibly a modified
> version of the SAAB unit
http://www.geocities.com/tv41mxa/tweakyourapc.html
> or
> http://web.inter.nl.net/users/turbo-team-europe/apc.htm or
> http://www.users.qwest.net/~qed/volvoapc/index.html
>
> With all the individuals that want to spoil the party and seem unable to
say
> thanks to the DIY_WB team and abide by their rules,  its hard to believe
> that there would be enough enthusiasm to do a DIY knock sensor, but maybe
> just maybe.
>
> This is a long post to get to the point that I am passionately interested
in
> tuning my vehicle not because I race or want to show off or have any
> commercial interest, but because I care about how well I have made it run
> with tools available to me.
>
> Bruce and the team I take my hat of to you for your selfless efforts to
> bring the DIY-WB project to it's conclusion.
>
> I hope that I can do you justice by building the boards myself and
reporting
> on how I have improved things on my vehicle.
>
> I also hope I may have some skill that you will find useful in the future.
>
> Hugh
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Agnello" <m_agnello@yahoo.com>
> To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 8:57 PM
> Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #718 - knock sensor
>
>
> >
> > > > TVS wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I assume the frequency has some dependence on
> > > variables
> > > > > like bore diameter and combustion chamber shape,
> > > but is the knock detection
> > > > > circuitry likely to 'listen' for a wide range of
> > > frequency's or just a
> > > > > narrow band?
> > > >
> >
> > These are just educated guesses, but I suspect they
> > apply.  Detonation is closely coupled to the pressure
> > wave in the combustion chamber.  The pressure wave is
> > an acoustic event.  As such, it should be influenced
> > by the geometry of the combustion chamber at the
> > instant of the event.  The dominant mode's wavelength
> > will probably be proportional to the cylinder bore.
> >
> > If the event timespan is too short to propagate
> > laterally, then the dominant mode will probably be
> > related to the combustion chamber height at the time
> > of the event.  Even if there is a lateral mode, I
> > wonder if the high frequency content in a knock signal
> > is due to the vertical mode(s)?
> >
> > WRT the cylinder head and/or block structure
> > influencing the dominant frequencies, I agree there
> > will be some interaction.  Unlike the 10 Hz bell
> > analogy, I don't believe there will be a dominant
> > vibrational mode of the engine structure.  These
> > structures are too complex to have a primary mode and
> > I'll bet auto manufacturers spend a lot of time
> > designing engine structures that don't have
> > significant vibrational modes.  I know aircraft engine
> > manufacturers do this.  If they didn't, the life of
> > the engine mounted fuel pumps, actuators, sensors, and
> > accessories would be severely shortened.
> >
> > What do y'all think?  Remember, I'm just a lonely old
> > EE that likes to read SF.;)
> >
> > Autospeed published an article based on an Aussie grad
> > student's research into engine knock earlier this
> > year.  Does anyone have a copy and does it shed light
> > on this issue?
> >
> >
> > =====
> > Mark Agnello
> > Washington Crossing, PA (USA)
> > 88 Toyota Celica All Trac Turbo (restoration project)
> > 92 Toyota Celica All Trac Turbo
> > 96 Honda VFR
> > 89 Honda Hawk GT (restoration project)
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo!
> Messenger
> > http://im.yahoo.com
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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> quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
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> >
> >
>
>
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From: Brian Renegar <thomas.renegar@nist.gov>
Subject: Re: The list is busy screaming ..
In-Reply-To: <038e01c0179d$67029260$63258fd1@bruce>
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>Please reread the users agreement,
>if you can't abide by it, and it's intent.
>Then feel free not to use the info., it's that simple.
>Bruce

Yeah, I've read it several times.  Just read it again.  There's absolutely 
nothing in there that has anything to do with what I was talking 
about...  Except for this one line: "It is not intended for commercial use, 
or to be in any manner related to a profit organization or 
individual".  That's a pretty broad statement.  And if you consider having 
a manufacturer build the boards with components on them "related to a 
profit organization", even if it is a non interested party, then you'd 
better re-think your position on the PCB's as well.  You don't seem to have 
any problem with those.  Which WERE made by a "profit organization".  So 
maybe YOU should question whether you're abiding by your own user agreement 
or not.  Or does it not apply to you??

I'm not trying to be an ass, but I just see some big problems as far as 
what's allowed and what's not, and the fact that it does not correlate with 
the user agreement.  FWIW, I have purchased two of the PCB's, am on the 
list for the components, and will build the boards by myself.  I know 
enough about basic circuits and soldering to attempt building it.  I can't 
assist in any of the design work for the WB (as that is not my background), 
but I look forward to hopefully adding any tuning and testing experience 
that I gather from using it.

I would also like to thank all of those that have contributed to this 
project.  Without them, I (and probably most of the other people on the 
list) would never had a wideband O2 meter.  Pricing of the commercially 
available units just makes it impossible on my budget to buy one.  So 
again, I say thank you.

Brian
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<html>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>Please reread the users
agreement,<br>
if you can't abide by it, and it's intent.<br>
Then feel free not to use the info., it's that simple.<br>
Bruce</blockquote><br>
Yeah, I've read it several times.&nbsp; Just read it again.&nbsp; There's
absolutely nothing in there that has anything to do with what I was
talking about...&nbsp; Except for this one line: &quot;<i>It is not
intended for commercial use, or to be in any manner related to a profit
organization or individual</i>&quot;.&nbsp; That's a pretty broad
statement.&nbsp; And if you consider having a manufacturer build the
boards with components on them &quot;related to a profit
organization&quot;, even if it is a non interested party, then you'd
better re-think your position on the PCB's as well.&nbsp; You don't seem
to have any problem with those.&nbsp; Which WERE made by a &quot;profit
organization&quot;.&nbsp; So maybe YOU should question whether you're
abiding by your own user agreement or not.&nbsp; Or does it not apply to
you??<br>
<br>
I'm not trying to be an ass, but I just see some big problems as far as
what's allowed and what's not, and the fact that it does not correlate
with the user agreement.&nbsp; FWIW, I have purchased two of the PCB's,
am on the list for the components, and will build the boards by
myself.&nbsp; I know enough about basic circuits and soldering to attempt
building it.&nbsp; I can't assist in any of the design work for the WB
(as that is not my background), but I look forward to hopefully adding
any tuning and testing experience that I gather from using it.<br>
<br>
I would also like to thank all of those that have contributed to this
project.&nbsp; Without them, I (and probably most of the other people on
the list) would never had a wideband O2 meter.&nbsp; Pricing of the
commercially available units just makes it impossible on my budget to buy
one.&nbsp; So again, I say thank you. <br>
<br>
Brian</html>

--=====================_5586724==_.ALT--

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 22:14:47 2001
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From: "Bruce" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: The list is busy screaming ..
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 01:15:23 -0400
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Yes it is a broad statement.
You can't use it to make a profit, for yourself or any firm. ***WE*** the
people that developed the board, can we can get board made, we are not the
users.  Your a user, you would be violating the USERS AGREEMENT, to get
boards made.  If Bob wants to start selling boards for $100 a pop, he would
not be violating the argeement, since it's his to do as he pleases with it.
If I or any other member of the team wanted too we could also.  Anyone other
then the design team to do so would be violating the USERS AGREEMENT.
Bruce



****** "It is not intended for commercial use, or to be in any manner
related to a profit organization or individual".  That's a pretty broad
statement.  *********


----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Renegar
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 4:05 AM
Subject: Re: The list is busy screaming ..


Please reread the users agreement,
if you can't abide by it, and it's intent.
Then feel free not to use the info., it's that simple.
Bruce

Yeah, I've read it several times.  Just read it again.  There's absolutely
nothing in there that has anything to do with what I was talking about...
Except for this one line: "It is not intended for commercial use, or to be
in any manner related to a profit organization or individual".  That's a
pretty broad statement.  And if you consider having a manufacturer build the
boards with components on them "related to a profit organization", even if
it is a non interested party, then you'd better re-think your position on
the PCB's as well.  You don't seem to have any problem with those.  Which
WERE made by a "profit organization".  So maybe YOU should question whether
you're abiding by your own user agreement or not.  Or does it not apply to
you??

I'm not trying to be an ass, but I just see some big problems as far as
what's allowed and what's not, and the fact that it does not correlate with
the user agreement.  FWIW, I have purchased two of the PCB's, am on the list
for the components, and will build the boards by myself.  I know enough
about basic circuits and soldering to attempt building it.  I can't assist
in any of the design work for the WB (as that is not my background), but I
look forward to hopefully adding any tuning and testing experience that I
gather from using it.

I would also like to thank all of those that have contributed to this
project.  Without them, I (and probably most of the other people on the
list) would never had a wideband O2 meter.  Pricing of the commercially
available units just makes it impossible on my budget to buy one.  So again,
I say thank you.

Brian

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 22:15:20 2001
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From: "Andris Skulte" <skulte@skulte.com>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: WB02 Parts Kits update
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 01:17:10 -0400
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I've used it for over 100 transactions, ranging from $5 to $1xxx... No
problems at all, and paypal refunded a service charge when I prompted them
once. I've been happy so far. I think its easier to roll it into a bank
acount than it is to deposit 297 checks or money orders.

Andris
Z28tt-89 IROC T56 DFI Twin Turbo
http://www.skulte.com/turbo.html

PS - and the fact that paypal makes 2.2% on the transaction does not change
the DIY nature of this! (doh, I should start diging a hole for myself
now...) :)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org [mailto:owner-diy_efi@diy-efi.org]On
> Behalf Of Bruce
> Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 10:05 PM
> To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: WB02 Parts Kits update
>
>
>
> Not to start a thread on it but be real careful using paypal, both parties
> may wind up wondering where the funds are
> Bruce
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed Sep  5 23:42:11 2001
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Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2001 22:16:10 -0800
From: Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
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Shane Moseley wrote:
> 
> If pulling the data from the coil negative.  List - could someone describe the
> voltage characteristics there.  I assume the negative side will go to zero volts
> when collapsing and then what?  Float high?  What kind of spikes and current
> shunts to expect?  Is opto-isolation absolutely necessary?  Thoughts on sample
> rate?

GM runs their electronic tachs by pulling a signal from this side of the
coil.  Near the coil they wire a small cylinder.  This device contains
an RC filter feeding a second RC filter.  The output from the second
filter then goes to the IP which contains a series diode feeding yet
another RC filter.  The filter output goes to a voltage divider that
goes to the base of a transistor.  The transistor's E is grounded and C
has a pullup resistor and is where the final tach signal is found.

-- 
Ludis Langens                               ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com
Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies:  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 01:51:00 2001
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Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 01:48:06 -0700
From: David Gravereaux <davygrvy@pobox.com>
Subject: Re: The list is busy screaming ..
In-reply-to: <5.0.0.25.2.20010906004052.00a31660@mailhub.cme.nist.gov>
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Organization: none.. lost in anarchy
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Brian Renegar <thomas.renegar@nist.gov> wrote:

>"It is not intended for commercial use, 
>or to be in any manner related to a profit organization or 
>individual".  That's a pretty broad statement.  And if you consider having 
>a manufacturer build the boards with components on them "related to a 
>profit organization", even if it is a non interested party, then you'd 
>better re-think your position on the PCB's as well.  You don't seem to have 
>any problem with those.  Which WERE made by a "profit organization".  So 
>maybe YOU should question whether you're abiding by your own user agreement 
>or not.  Or does it not apply to you??

The GPL is a real pain in the a** when applied to the tangible world, isn't it?
How free can free be?
--
David Gravereaux <davygrvy@pobox.com>
Tomasoft Engineering, Hayward, CA
[species: human; planet: earth,milkyway,alpha sector]
Please be aware of the 7.5 year ping times when placing a call from alpha centari
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 05:02:47 2001
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From: "944Technologist" <f_wilk@hotmail.com>
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Subject: PCB Buy
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It sounds like you got a pretty descent price on the PCBs. Can I ask what
board house you ended up using?

FR Wilk
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 06:13:49 2001
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Subject: Re: WB02 Parts Kits update
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Steve,
I apologize for bothering you with administrivia.  I just submitted a
second request for a parts kit.  So please don't be confused when you
review all the requests.....I do want a total of 2 parts kits.
Thanks for all your effort.

Neil Poersch
Box 21 Group 352 RR 3
5654 Henderson Highway
Winnipeg, Manitoba
Canada  R3C 2E7

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 06:56:05 2001
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From: "Mike Swayze" <mswayze@truswood.com>
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Subject: ford questions
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Been a while since I've posed a question to any of the lists, here goes.
A girl here at work drives a Thunderbird Turbo Coupe and has had a problem
with it stumbling for ten minutes or so at  about the time it warms up. She
has replaced the fuel filter and done a complete tuneup and had the car on a
'diagnostic' machine for about two hours. I had a similar problem with a
ford ranger v6, but replacing the fuel pump fixed it. The fuel filter she
replaced is under the car about where the seat is. Are there any other
filters in this car that would cause the 'stumbling' problem? The
'diagnostic' did not show anything wrong. I am not real familiar with the
ford cars, would a vacuum connection somewhere cause this (egr?,etc.)?
TIA
Mike
Swayze
mswayze@truswood.com
kswayze@bellsouth.net


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 07:14:20 2001
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Subject: Re: WB02 Parts Kits update
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Sorry folks.  This was meant to be a private e-mail.
Neil


>Steve,
>I apologize for bothering you with administrivia......


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That is defiantly the fuel filter that she replaced, it is under the seat,
mounted to the frame rail...

Sounds like a possible vacuum leak...




Scott Bowen
Lockheed Martin Aircraft Simulations
Hanger 135B, Ellington Field
Houston, TX 77034
scott.m.bowen1@jsc.nasa.gov
Voice: 281-244-9669
Fax: 281-244-9681

Cut with an axe, beat to fit, paint to match.








-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Swayze [mailto:mswayze@truswood.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 8:56 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: ford questions


Been a while since I've posed a question to any of the lists, here goes.
A girl here at work drives a Thunderbird Turbo Coupe and has had a problem
with it stumbling for ten minutes or so at  about the time it warms up. She
has replaced the fuel filter and done a complete tuneup and had the car on a
'diagnostic' machine for about two hours. I had a similar problem with a
ford ranger v6, but replacing the fuel pump fixed it. The fuel filter she
replaced is under the car about where the seat is. Are there any other
filters in this car that would cause the 'stumbling' problem? The
'diagnostic' did not show anything wrong. I am not real familiar with the
ford cars, would a vacuum connection somewhere cause this (egr?,etc.)?
TIA
Mike
Swayze
mswayze@truswood.com
kswayze@bellsouth.net


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 08:06:03 2001
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From: "BOWEN, SCOTT M. (JSC-CC) (LM)" <scott.m.bowen1@jsc.nasa.gov>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: WB02 Parts Kits update
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 10:02:40 -0500 
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At The risk of getting flamed and sounding like a total moron....

Can someone fill me in on the whole DIY-WB02 project?
I have read the archives, but I don't quite get it, but if it is close to
what I think it is, I would like to get a kit from Steven, but I want to
make sure it is what I think it is....

Sorry for the stupid question, I have been away from the list for over a
year...

Thanks




Scott Bowen
Lockheed Martin Aircraft Simulations
Hanger 135B, Ellington Field
Houston, TX 77034
scott.m.bowen1@jsc.nasa.gov
Voice: 281-244-9669
Fax: 281-244-9681

Cut with an axe, beat to fit, paint to match.








-----Original Message-----
From: Steven Ciciora [mailto:ciciora@Ciciora.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 5:26 PM
To: gmecm@diy-efi.org; diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: WB02 Parts Kits update


 Well, two weeks ago, I said I would take requests for the parts kit until
today, but I forgot to post a 'last minute' reminder yesterday, so I'll
take requests via the web site (http://208.37.117.207/kits.html) until
tomorrow evning.  Currently there are 297 requests (more than the 25 to 50
that I guessed!  I hope all these people follow through and actually pay
for their requests!  I don't need _that_ many extra parts!), and not many
have been added the last day or two.  Please forgive me for not emailing
confirmations, that's a lot of typeing to do!  I hope to do that some time
next week.
  I won't know the final price until after I order parts, but currently it
looks like it's going to be less than $13/kit plus shipping. This kit does
not include the sensor, enclosure, terminal strip, etc.  Only the items
listed on the web site that are available from Digikey.  The items listed
are only the items that mount on the PCB.  There were some suggestions
about including a box in the group buy, but I chickend out. I'd hate to
choose a box that won't fit someone else's display unit that might get
made.
  - Steven Ciciora


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 08:07:44 2001
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To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: JECS and Newbie!
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 10:04:29 -0500 
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Did you ever play with the ECU for the '91-'93 Nissan KA24DE Inline 4 motor?


Scott Bowen
Lockheed Martin Aircraft Simulations
Hanger 135B, Ellington Field
Houston, TX 77034
scott.m.bowen1@jsc.nasa.gov
Voice: 281-244-9669
Fax: 281-244-9681

Cut with an axe, beat to fit, paint to match.








-----Original Message-----
From: Lachlan [mailto:lpgb@xtra.co.nz]
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 7:50 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: JECS and Newbie!

<snippage>

Mainly the JECS units I worked on were the TURBO and non-turbo  nissan 4, 6
and Commodore
VL 6. these units were all v. similar.

I hope I have not left you JECS people too disappointed. Remember also that
I have not
touched/thought about/fixed one of these since 94. I do remember it being a
simple and
clean unit with nice signals and easy to find faults, though I knew 99.9% of
them haveing
fixed so many, I got great joy out of getting a 'unfixable' unit out of the
'dead' box and
getting it going :) usually an out of range component or a dry joint that
was difficult to
find.

regards,
Lachlan

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 08:13:48 2001
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Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 11:12:59 EDT
Subject: Stoich is.....
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Stoich is.....when there is a balance of elements on the left side and right side of the "equation"

Methane and oxygen (unbalanced)

CH4 +  O2  ->  CO2 + H20

The stoichiometric equation is when the number of atoms on the left equal the number of atoms on the right.

so

1 CH4 + 2 O2  -> 1 CO2 + 2 H2O


Seldom is there 100% complete combustion.
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 08:17:53 2001
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Subject: Re: Stoich is.....
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Unless your turning mass into energy, the number of atoms will always
balance.  least to my way of thinking
Bruce


From: <A70Duster@aol.com>
Subject: Stoich is.....
> Stoich is.....when there is a balance of elements on the left side and
right side of the "equation" Methane and oxygen (unbalanced)
>
> CH4 +  O2  ->  CO2 + H20
>
> The stoichiometric equation is when the number of atoms on the left equal
the number of atoms on the right. so
>
> 1 CH4 + 2 O2  -> 1 CO2 + 2 H2O
> Seldom is there 100% complete combustion.


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 08:25:55 2001
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From: "BOWEN, SCOTT M. (JSC-CC) (LM)" <scott.m.bowen1@jsc.nasa.gov>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Lachlan...JECS Nissan units....
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 10:22:41 -0500 
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Do you know what chip JECS used for the Nissan [KA24DE] 16 byte units?

I understand about the contract and everything, I just was wondering what
chips these are...

JECS 
A12-212 600
M37790STJ
031101

and...

JECS
A12-260 002
M6M72561J-1
026102
[with a stick on label that reads K078SFA8]

are in real life...like who makes them?

If you can tell me that, I will be a lot more in the know...because JECS
here in the states won't tell me.....

thanks 

Scott Bowen
Lockheed Martin Aircraft Simulations
Hanger 135B, Ellington Field
Houston, TX 77034
scott.m.bowen1@jsc.nasa.gov
Voice: 281-244-9669
Fax: 281-244-9681

Cut with an axe, beat to fit, paint to match.





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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 08:29:35 2001
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To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: RE: ford questions
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 10:26:22 -0500 
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Mike...

Also the EGR valve sticking open can cause this....

Is the fuel pressure good?



Scott 

Cut with an axe, beat to fit, paint to match.









-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Swayze [mailto:mswayze@truswood.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 8:56 AM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: ford questions


Been a while since I've posed a question to any of the lists, here goes.
A girl here at work drives a Thunderbird Turbo Coupe and has had a problem
with it stumbling for ten minutes or so at  about the time it warms up. She
has replaced the fuel filter and done a complete tuneup and had the car on a
'diagnostic' machine for about two hours. I had a similar problem with a
ford ranger v6, but replacing the fuel pump fixed it. The fuel filter she
replaced is under the car about where the seat is. Are there any other
filters in this car that would cause the 'stumbling' problem? The
'diagnostic' did not show anything wrong. I am not real familiar with the
ford cars, would a vacuum connection somewhere cause this (egr?,etc.)?
TIA
Mike
Swayze
mswayze@truswood.com
kswayze@bellsouth.net

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 09:14:42 2001
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On Wed, 05 Sep 2001 20:54:51 -0700 Brian Renegar
<thomas.renegar@nist.gov> writes:
> Ok, fine.  DIY... so they should slap the components on themselves.
> Oh but it's DIY... so they should source the PCB's themselves.  And
it's 
> still 
> DIY, so they should do their own artwork.  Hell, since it's DIY, 
> maybe they 
> should just do the whole thing themselves!!!
> 
> You can't just arbitrarily draw the line somewhere.  It doesn't work 
> that way.

Sure it does. Happens all the time. You are forgetting perhaps the
companies that offer electronic kits, but do *not* offer anything
pre-built (most in fact don't). For many of them, it's part of their
philosophy or venue, as well as business plan. In this case, it's just
part of the philosophy, since there is no business involved. Call it an
arbitrary line if you want, but you *can* draw it, and it can and does
work that way. Many examples.

Brian -the other Brian-
________________________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 09:49:33 2001
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Subject: Re: Stoich is.....
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Yes, overall there are still the same number of atoms going down the exhaust
as come in throught the intake. However, if the air/fuel ratio is not at
stoich then there will be spare atoms that don't fit into the equation, so
you will have unburnt fuel or unused oxygen.

Les


>
> Unless your turning mass into energy, the number of atoms will always
> balance.  least to my way of thinking
> Bruce
>
>
> From: <A70Duster@aol.com>
> Subject: Stoich is.....
> > Stoich is.....when there is a balance of elements on the left side and
> right side of the "equation" Methane and oxygen (unbalanced)
> >
> > CH4 +  O2  ->  CO2 + H20
> >
> > The stoichiometric equation is when the number of atoms on the left
equal
> the number of atoms on the right. so
> >
> > 1 CH4 + 2 O2  -> 1 CO2 + 2 H2O
> > Seldom is there 100% complete combustion.
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 09:59:46 2001
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Subject: Re: Stoich is.....
Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 13:00:26 -0400
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then it's not an equation, both sides still have to equal each other.
Right, just means the first definition given is wrong.
Bruce

From: "Les Newell" <les@lnewell.screaming.net>
Subject: Re: Stoich is.....
> Yes, overall there are still the same number of atoms going down the
exhaust
> as come in throught the intake. However, if the air/fuel ratio is not at
> stoich then there will be spare atoms that don't fit into the equation, so
> you will have unburnt fuel or unused oxygen.
> Les

> > Unless your turning mass into energy, the number of atoms will always
> > balance.  least to my way of thinking
> > Bruce

> > From: <A70Duster@aol.com>
> > Subject: Stoich is.....
> > > Stoich is.....when there is a balance of elements on the left side and
> > right side of the "equation" Methane and oxygen (unbalanced)
> > >
> > > CH4 +  O2  ->  CO2 + H20
> > >
> > > The stoichiometric equation is when the number of atoms on the left
> equal
> > the number of atoms on the right. so
> > >
> > > 1 CH4 + 2 O2  -> 1 CO2 + 2 H2O
> > > Seldom is there 100% complete combustion.
> >
> >
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 10:12:28 2001
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References: <d8.b77f67d.28c8ec7b@aol.com> <014f01c01815$b784fde0$340ac9d8@bruce> <003001c136f3$3b5ba860$00b6fea9@leslie>
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Is there any way to get a PCB?

Thanks...

Doug

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 10:40:11 2001
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At 10:26 AM 9/6/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Scott 
>
>Cut with an axe, beat to fit, paint to match.


No No No

It's Calculate to 20 decimal places, measure with a micrometer THEN.......... 

......Cut with an axe, beat to fit, paint to match

Your way is too crude
HeHeHe

Ron Schroeder
WD8CDH
E. E. S.
wd8cdh@bnl.gov
rjs@bnl.gov
ron@112motors.com
631 344-4561 Day
631 286-5677 Nite
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 11:07:18 2001
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A bar graph tach made of LED's would likely be the simplest solution. The problems with a simple
electronic digital tacho's is electrical noise causing a false tack reading, analog tach's are
somewhat immune to this problem because they require a certain amount of electrical power to
overcome impedence in the coil, and they have a small amount of inertia in the needle mechanism
that helps keep the needle from wiggling with the electrical noise.

The easiest way to reduce tack input noise is to use an unductive pick-up on one of the plug
wires for your tach signal. Each time the plug fires you know that the engine has turned one
revolution. Then all you need is a counter,  a crystal, a multiplexer, and a bunch of led's.

The one trouble I ran into with this idea was that I would have a blinking LED at the end of the
bar. What I mean is that if each LED was to indicate 1000 rpm, and the engine was running at
1500 rpm, the 1000 rpm LED would remain lighted, but the 2000 rpm LED would blink. I'm pretty
sure there's an easy way to get rid of this, but my attention span was gone at that point, and I
moved on.





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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 11:29:48 2001
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Oh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Your method is for bodywork...mine is for electronics! ;^)

hehehehehe




Scott Bowen
Lockheed Martin Aircraft Simulations
Hanger 135B, Ellington Field
Houston, TX 77034
scott.m.bowen1@jsc.nasa.gov
Voice: 281-244-9669
Fax: 281-244-9681

Cut with an axe, beat to fit, paint to match.


At 10:26 AM 9/6/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Scott 
>
>Cut with an axe, beat to fit, paint to match.


No No No

It's Calculate to 20 decimal places, measure with a micrometer
THEN.......... 

......Cut with an axe, beat to fit, paint to match

Your way is too crude
HeHeHe

Ron Schroeder
WD8CDH
E. E. S.
wd8cdh@bnl.gov
rjs@bnl.gov
ron@112motors.com
631 344-4561 Day
631 286-5677 Nite

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 11:55:17 2001
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From: "Diehl, Jeffrey" <jdiehl@sandia.gov>
To: "'diy_efi@diy-efi.org'" <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
Subject: Q: about various types of EGT probes.
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 12:54:50 -0600
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Hi all,

I'm looking into putting one or more exhaust temp probes in one of my cars.
While pricing the probes, I was asked what type of probe I need.  Quick
research on the Web revealed that these probes are designated as K-type,
J-type, N-type, etc.  Does anyone know what this refers to?  Is it form
factor, or electrical characteristics, for example?

Any source of information on the topic would be most appreciated.

Thanx,
Mike Diehl,




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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 12:09:14 2001
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From: "Les Newell" <les@lnewell.screaming.net>
To: <diy_efi@diy-efi.org>
References: <d8.b77f67d.28c8ec7b@aol.com> <014f01c01815$b784fde0$340ac9d8@bruce> <003001c136f3$3b5ba860$00b6fea9@leslie> <019901c01823$f4c75500$340ac9d8@bruce>
Subject: Re: Stoich is.....
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 20:03:13 +0100
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Stoich is when the end result is as fully reacted as possible
The ideal reaction for methane is
1 CH4 + 2 O2  -> 1 CO2 + 2 H2O
Both CO2 and H2O are stable and will not easily react further.

If you have too much fuel you end up with:
2 CH4 + 3 O2  -> 2 CO + 4 H2O
CO will easily react with oxygen.

If you have too much oxygen you end up with:
2 CH4 + 5 O2  -> 2 CO2 + 4 H2O + O2
The O2 will obviously react with any fuel available

In practise of course the reactions are not as clear cut as the mixture
never fits the equations perfectly so you will get combinations of the above
reactions depending on the exact air/fuel mix.

Les

>
> then it's not an equation, both sides still have to equal each other.
> Right, just means the first definition given is wrong.
> Bruce
>
> From: "Les Newell" <les@lnewell.screaming.net>
> Subject: Re: Stoich is.....
> > Yes, overall there are still the same number of atoms going down the
> exhaust
> > as come in throught the intake. However, if the air/fuel ratio is not at
> > stoich then there will be spare atoms that don't fit into the equation,
so
> > you will have unburnt fuel or unused oxygen.
> > Les
>
> > > Unless your turning mass into energy, the number of atoms will always
> > > balance.  least to my way of thinking
> > > Bruce
>
> > > From: <A70Duster@aol.com>
> > > Subject: Stoich is.....
> > > > Stoich is.....when there is a balance of elements on the left side
and
> > > right side of the "equation" Methane and oxygen (unbalanced)
> > > >
> > > > CH4 +  O2  ->  CO2 + H20
> > > >
> > > > The stoichiometric equation is when the number of atoms on the left
> > equal
> > > the number of atoms on the right. so
> > > >
> > > > 1 CH4 + 2 O2  -> 1 CO2 + 2 H2O
> > > > Seldom is there 100% complete combustion.
> > >
> > >
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 12:13:26 2001
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From: Matt Smith <mdsdm@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Q: about various types of EGT probes.
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org, "Diehl, Jeffrey" <jdiehl@sandia.gov>
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Those are thermocouple types.

--- "Diehl, Jeffrey" <jdiehl@sandia.gov> wrote:
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm looking into putting one or more exhaust temp probes in one of my cars.
> While pricing the probes, I was asked what type of probe I need.  Quick
> research on the Web revealed that these probes are designated as K-type,
> J-type, N-type, etc.  Does anyone know what this refers to?  Is it form
> factor, or electrical characteristics, for example?
> 
> Any source of information on the topic would be most appreciated.
> 
> Thanx,
> Mike Diehl,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
> 


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 12:45:41 2001
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Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2001 15:44:48 -0400
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
From: Ron Schroeder <rjs@bnl.gov>
Subject: Re: Q: about various types of EGT probes.
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>--- "Diehl, Jeffrey" <jdiehl@sandia.gov> wrote:
>> Hi all,
>> 
>> I'm looking into putting one or more exhaust temp probes in one of my cars.
>> While pricing the probes, I was asked what type of probe I need.  Quick
>> research on the Web revealed that these probes are designated as K-type,
>> J-type, N-type, etc.  Does anyone know what this refers to?  Is it form
>> factor, or electrical characteristics, for example?
>> 
>> Any source of information on the topic would be most appreciated.
>> 
>> Thanx,
>> Mike Diehl,

Hi Mike,

EGT is usually type K thermocouple and CHT is usually type J.

Ron Schroeder
WD8CDH
E. E. S.
wd8cdh@bnl.gov
rjs@bnl.gov
ron@112motors.com
631 344-4561 Day
631 286-5677 Nite
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 12:47:41 2001
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To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: Q: about various types of EGT probes.
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2001 15:44:26 -0400 
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Everyone uses K-type that I know, the type dictates the temp range as well
as the linear response of the type thermocouple.  K-type is good upto about
2000 deg F.  

What are you going to read the sensor with, its not as simple as just
measuring voltage.  A circuit has to be used that measures the junction as
well as compensates for temp of the op amps being used.  I looked into it
several years ago, not rocket science, but is not trivial either.
Thats the extent of my knowledge on it for now.  5 years ago I looked into
building one, I wound up buying one instead.  There is plenty of info on the
net regarding using these devices, start with www.OMEGA.com and look at
their data sheets.

Here is one site I remember:
http://www.dataforth.com/catalog/doc_generator.asp?Path=intro.signal.html


Check out some data recorder companies and you can see what they are using.
RACEPAK.com, Corsa-Inst.com, Autometer, etc...

SF


-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Smith [mailto:mdsdm@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 3:13 PM
To: diy_efi@diy-efi.org; Diehl, Jeffrey
Subject: Re: Q: about various types of EGT probes.


Those are thermocouple types.

--- "Diehl, Jeffrey" <jdiehl@sandia.gov> wrote:
> Hi all,
> 
> I'm looking into putting one or more exhaust temp probes in one of my
cars.
> While pricing the probes, I was asked what type of probe I need.  Quick
> research on the Web revealed that these probes are designated as K-type,
> J-type, N-type, etc.  Does anyone know what this refers to?  Is it form
> factor, or electrical characteristics, for example?
> 
> Any source of information on the topic would be most appreciated.
> 
> Thanx,
> Mike Diehl,
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 12:58:18 2001
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Subject: Re: Q: about various types of EGT probes.
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Mike,
The designations refer to the different types of dissimilar metals used in
the thermocouple.  You want to use a K-type.  It will cover the temperature
range of exhaust gas and is also more ductile so less breakage of the
wires.
Neil


>
I'm looking into putting one or more exhaust temp probes in one of my cars.
While pricing the probes, I was asked what type of probe I need.  Quick
research on the Web revealed that these probes are designated as K-type,
J-type, N-type, etc.  Does anyone know what this refers to?  Is it form
factor, or electrical characteristics, for example?

Any source of information on the topic would be most appreciated.

Thanx,
Mike Diehl,
<



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From diy_efi-owner  Thu Sep  6 15:38:32 2001
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