From owner-diy_efi  Thu Nov  3 18:02:23 1994
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From: mne1@cec.wustl.edu (Matthew Noel Ettus)
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Hi.  I am new to this list.
I am the team leader of the Washington University Formula SAE team,
and we are considering fuel-injecting out honda cbr600 engine.

From owner-diy_efi  Thu Nov  3 20:50:17 1994
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Date: Thu, 3 Nov 1994 15:50:08 -0500
From: Jeffrey S Armfield <armfield@ecn.purdue.edu>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Hot Rod Lawn Mowers
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OK, we've got one of these also. A single cylinder air-cooled L-head Kohler
engine with 29 cubic inches displacement. We took a little easier route
when it came to fuel injection. We threw money at it. Had Electromotive whip
up a one-cylinder version of their TEC-1 EFI unit with fuel and spark control.
This setup works GREAT! That is, for our research purposes, it works great. 
Using GM manifold pressure, coolant temp, and air temp sensors. Mag pickup with
a 60-2 tooth wheel for timing information. Heated Bosch EGO sensor and Bosch
injector. Injector is P/N 280 150 941. Bosch claims this is a Ford application
but no one I know at Ford has ever been able to confirm that. I'm hoping to
produce our own engine controller this summer as we implement some novel 
control algorithm ideas. Oh yea, we've already laid claim to the title
"World's Highest Tech Lawn Tractor Engine".

Jeff Armfield

From owner-diy_efi  Thu Nov  3 20:51:29 1994
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From: Bohdan.L.Bodnar@att.com
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Original-From: bohdan@uscbu.ih.att.com (Bohdan L Bodnar)
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Oxygen sensors
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| How I saw it done in the controller in the 1991 GMC pickup truck
| is the O2 chip has an internal voltage divider that places the output
| of the O2 sensor at 0.450 volts until it warms up. Once its internal
| resistance drops below a certain point, the size of the O2 amplitude
| indicates primarily temperature.

> ok, so if its cold the output voltage stays between, say, .3V and .6V
> for an extended period of time. Once it exceeds these thresholds, we
> declare it's hot enough to use.
>
> If we aren't trying to meat emission standards, I suppose a simple
> warmup period is enough. (?)

My $0.02 worth...

The usual procedure is to (1) monitor coolant temperature and (2) run a
watchdog timer.  In some systems (e.g., Chrysler's EFI) the computer also
monitors something like vehicle speed;  this information is used to "diddle"
the timer's setting on the fly.

If the coolant temperature stays below a certain point for a programmed time,
a "stuck cold" fault code will be set (note that most contemporary computers
will also monitor the bounds on the coolant temperature and will have fault
codes for out-of-bounds conditions) and A DEFAULT value used.  A lot of people
with scan tools will read the coolant temperature and assume that the computer
is seeing this temperature;  in fact, the computer is merely outputting the
value it is currently using.

If the temperature reaches a certain operating point (usually, around 180F)
the computer will start varying the a/f ratio and see whether the O2 sensor
responds with a *binary* signal (i.e., close to 0 and close to 900 mV) which
varies.  Modern computers will not only monitor the response, but also, given
a mathematical model of the engine, associate a response time window with the
varying.  Put differently, the computer is looking for a response (O2 sensor
output) given an input step function (a rich or lean mixture) and a model of
the system.  This is why on carbureted engines in closed loop the M/C
solenoid's dwell is varying and why on EFI engines the total pulse width of
the injectors is varying (on peak-and-hold injectors, the "peak" time is fixed
-- around 1.5 ms -- whereas the "hold" part will vary).



>                                      John S Gwynne
>                                         Gwynne.1@osu.edu
>

Regards,

Bohdan Bodnar


From owner-diy_efi  Thu Nov  3 23:55:58 1994
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From: Craig Pugsley <c.pugsley@trl.oz.au>
Message-Id: <199411032355.AA04715@shiva.trl.OZ.AU>
Subject: O2 fouling, EEC V
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Fri, 4 Nov 1994 10:55:25 +1100 (EST)
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Hi there,

Two quick things:

i/ Can / does an O2 sensor get fouled by a smoky engine or a two stroke

ii/ Does anyone know much about EEC V - is there much info available on
    it yet? The current model 6 cylinder family car here has EEC V with
    'variable intake length' (2 lengths possible) manifold. It is also
    speed limited to around 110mph which I found interesting, as it
    probably has enough power to do 140. The reason for this is
    supposedly to 'reduce the design envelope'-IE brakes don't need to
    be as big etc. Given that our speed limit is 60-65 mph it's 
    pretty academic anyway.

Craig.

pugsley@trl.oz.au

From owner-diy_efi  Fri Nov  4 00:56:12 1994
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From: jvp%fuelrod@juliet.ll.mit.edu ( Jim Pieronek)
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Craig Pugsley writes:
 > 
 > ii/ Does anyone know much about EEC V - is there much info available on
 >     it yet? The current model 6 cylinder family car here has EEC V with
 >     'variable intake length' (2 lengths possible) manifold. It is also
 >     speed limited to around 110mph which I found interesting, as it
 >     probably has enough power to do 140. The reason for this is
 >     supposedly to 'reduce the design envelope'-IE brakes don't need to
 >     be as big etc. Given that our speed limit is 60-65 mph it's 
 >     pretty academic anyway.
 > 

I worked on engine controls at the Generous Motors Lansing Powertrain
Engineering Center several years ago.  They limited the speed on the
Quad 4 cars to 106 MPH because of the tires.  You have to slap on some
pretty good (expensive) tires to be able to survive 140 MPH for long.

"That'll be $0.02 please",
Jim
===================================================================
J. V. Pieronek                            Phone: (505) 243-5822
M.I.T. Lincoln Laboratory                 FAX:   (505) 243-5823
Terminal Radar Development Facility       Internet: jvp@ll.mit.edu
Albuquerque, New Mexico

From owner-diy_efi  Fri Nov  4 01:55:23 1994
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Date: Thu, 3 Nov 1994 18:55:53 -0700 (MST)
From: Grant Beattie <grantb@nait.ab.ca>
Subject: EFI Books
To: DIY_EFI <DIY_EFI>
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Since my background is more computers than cars, I was wondering if 
anyone could recommend a good book.  Someone mentioned the Bosch Blue 
book.  I think I can get that one from Eric Waiter Associates.  Is this 
book one of the better ones?

GB


From owner-diy_efi  Fri Nov  4 11:07:18 1994
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Date: Fri, 4 Nov 1994 03:07:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Nate <patriot@kaiwan.com>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Oxygen sensors
In-Reply-To: <199411031332.AA16538@access4.digex.net>
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On Thu, 3 Nov 1994, Andy Harrah wrote:

> When I first got interested in O2 sensors, I went down to the Patent Office
> to do some research.  Its about 10 miles from me.
> 
> I found an interesting GM patent (no. 4,130,095 Dec. 1978) that describes
> how they can tell of the sensors are hot enough to be given reliable data.
> The model of the O2 sensor is like a battery.  The terminal voltage is a
> function of the CO or oxygen content, and the internal resistance is a function
> of the temperature.  These things are really high impedance devices.  GM uses
> a clever approach that alternates between taking samples with a high impedance
> input, and one that loads down the sensor.

How about you wait till after you reset (thus ignition is just turned on) 
then wait till motor comes up to RPM over 300 RPM, then count the minutes 
that it is over 300 RPM, and figure it's pretty hot by then?

I know it's cheap, but it works for a home brew job. The home brewers 
would have a monitoring set up like a LCD or something anyway, because we 
hate idiot lights. Assuming this, one would be able to find a bad sensor 
problem.

I hate adding circuits into something that really don't need to be there. 
When I'm the one whos got to wire wrap it all together!

You would be watching the RPM's for other stuff anyway.

GM has it right, because this would also tell you when the sensor was 
going bad. If you didn't get a reading after a while, then you know it's 
bad. If you didn't sense this way, then you might think that the thing 
was idling, well maybe..... Now that I think about this, is there really 
a reason for this temp measurement? Would make it a bit more accurate on 
when it went into "full on" mode, but so what... The darn thing is 
probably wrong in mixture anyway no matter what they do, while it's 
warming up.

Besides, if they want to be so accurate, then why doesn't my car get 70 
MPG???



From owner-diy_efi  Fri Nov  4 11:22:19 1994
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Date: Fri, 4 Nov 1994 03:22:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Nate <patriot@kaiwan.com>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Oxygen sensors
In-Reply-To: <941103101049.20b6@abacus.gsfc.nasa.gov>
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Let me clarify...

This is on a 1985 Chevy Sprint, made by Suzuki originally. (the car I put 
a monitor on).

It uses the O2 sensor to richen and lean the mixture in a closed loop.

THe sensor really works good because I tried leaning and enrichen the 
mixture manually and it changed quite rapidly!

Once it's hot, it reacts very quickly. Not that you would have the 
computer make rapid changes, I would average it (and it looked like they 
did too) and slowley change the mixture.

I remember when I first started messing with stuff like this, I would 
forget that the CPU was so fast, and would have to re write my code when 
I connected it up to the real world.

Here's the simple monitoring equipment idea I used...

Connect a Radio Shack "bar graph" display to the sensor output (0 to 1V), 
through a resistor (10K I think) and put a CAP about 33uf on it (this 
takes out any varances). This gives you a idea of what the sensor is doing.

Then conect a LED (1K resistor in series) to the "lean/rich" selenoid, 
and it will vary as the mixture is leaned out etc.... (you watch the 
pulse width modulation with your eye).

It's interesting to watch it work.

Have fun...


From owner-diy_efi  Fri Nov  4 13:34:16 1994
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From: Andy Harrah <andyb@access.digex.net>
Message-Id: <199411041334.AA25773@access4.digex.net>
Subject: Oxygen sensors
To: DIY_EFI
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The loading scheme to detect a warm sensor was from the days before they
used self-heated sensors.  The Chevy manuals claim the sensors will cool
off and the system will go open-loop during periods of extended idling.

.../Bill

From owner-diy_efi  Fri Nov  4 13:59:18 1994
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From: "Matthew Lee Franklin" <fran0054@gold.tc.umn.edu>
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On Thu, 3 Nov 1994 18:55:53 -0700 (MST, Grant Beattie wrote:

>Since my background is more computers than cars, I was wondering if 
>anyone could recommend a good book.  Someone mentioned the Bosch Blue 
>book.  I think I can get that one from Eric Waiter Associates.  Is this 
>book one of the better ones?
>GB

BOSCH has a "Red" book, too.  It was $38.00 from SAE a couple of years ago.
Its title is "Automotive Electric/Electronic Systems".  There may be other 
better books, but this one is pretty good

Matthew L. Franklin     
University of Minnesota     
Department of Mechanical Engineering
111 Church Street Southeast
Minneapolis, MN 55455-0150
Phone: (612)625-4074                       
FAX:   (612)624-1398
Home Phone/FAX: (612)331-3511

From owner-diy_efi  Fri Nov  4 15:48:37 1994
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I don't know diddly about electronics. I'm sitting here looking thru a Digikey
catalog trying to figure out which mosfet power transistors and which 
opto-isolators to use for my project.
the mosfets list BVdss, Ip, Idm, Vgs, Rds and PD. From my reading in
Practical transistors and Linear IC's book, BVdss is the voltage to trigger 
the transistor. All of these mosfets are 60V-120V, obviously I'm only running
13.5V max, what am I missing?

The opto-isolators list BVCEO(min), the smallest is a 7V with a current
transfer ratio of 250%, no specs for on/off time. From my reading a darlington
output should boost the current, the catalog doesn't say how much.
The isolation voltage is only 3000V for this particular item, some list 5300V
would they be better for isolating the engine noise from the electronics?

I had ordered some logic level opto-isolators and they came with schmitt trigger
outputs, I tried to run these at slow speed 0.1 sec and they just stayed in on
mode, the data rate is supposed to be 1.0MHz. Could I have been hooking them up
wrong?

Is there a cross-reference manual available, I have a listing for some logic
level IGBT's, HGTP15N40C1 but Digikey doesn't have any part numbers similar to
this. The MOSFETs have a part number, IRF540, once again no similar numbers in
the catalog.

Could someone help me figure out what I'm missing?

Millam

From owner-diy_efi  Fri Nov  4 16:05:44 1994
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Date: Fri, 4 Nov 1994 16:32:08 +0200 (SAT)
From: Wouter de Waal <wrm@aztec.co.za>
Subject: PCB / Cad progs
To: efi list <diy_efi>
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I found a fairly nice (for shareware) shareware circuit drafting / PCB 
layout package called PADS. Sits on Simtel. PC based, sorry John :)

Anyway, this thing has all the symbols, 68000, 8031, 80x86, TTL, CMOS, 
etc. It seems easy to add to this as well. Outputs Gerber, Postscript, etc.

So : Maybe this should become a semi-standard for capturing and 
distributing circuits. It's free, seems to work, has less annoying bits 
than WordPerfect (for what that's worth...) etc.

Wouter de Waal

PS : My opinion - my boss loves WordPerfect (REALLY!)


