From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug  1 10:55:11 1995
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From: Jens Knickmeyer <knick@ibr.cs.tu-bs.de>
Message-Id: <199508011050.MAA13770@bal.ibr.cs.tu-bs.de>
Subject: Re: efi from an at bus plug in board
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Tue, 1 Aug 95 12:50:46 MET DST
In-Reply-To: <950731115415_44578549@aol.com> from "ALIPPER@aol.com" at Jul 31, 95 11:54:15 am
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Al,

I thought about such a project for a long time, but never made
it up to a real board. So, I am another "Me Too!".

Thanks,

Jens.
------------------------------------
           Jens Knickmeyer
Technische Universitaet Braunschweig
         Mikroporzessorlabor
 38106 Braunschweig near Wolfsburg
       knick@ibr.cs.tu-bs.de
------------------------------------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug  1 22:56:03 1995
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From: scot@mamacass.sp.trw.com (Scot O. Stockton)
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Say, anyone out there know how much energy is in a gallon of gasoline?
Specifically, the gas today in SoCal.  Also, what is a typical engine
efficiency for a big block V8?

I beg forgiveness if this is in a FAQ that I have not gottento yet.

TIA,
-S

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Aug  2 00:59:52 1995
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From: robert dingli <r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Message-Id: <199508020058.KAA15620@mullian.ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: efficiencies
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 1995 10:58:12 +1000 (EST)
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> 
> 
> Say, anyone out there know how much energy is in a gallon of gasoline?
> Specifically, the gas today in SoCal.  Also, what is a typical engine
> efficiency for a big block V8?
> 

Typical efficiency for a modern efi engine would be around 30-32% at the
point of maximum efficiency  (WOT 2000 - 5000 rpm).  Overall operating
efficiency may be 5-10% depending on use.

I'd guess that a big block V8 would be less efficient, but admit that I've
never had the opportunity (luckily) to test one in our engine labs.

The largest engines we've tested (apart from diesels) are 4.0 litre 6
cylider passenger car engines.  38 - 42% is the best we have been able
to attain using high compression, high turbulence, lean burn designs.

Robert 'off to inject hydrogen into the Lancia' Dingli
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
             Robert Dingli           r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Power and Control Systems                 Thermodynamics Research Lab
Electrical Engineering                    Mechanical Engineering
   (+613) 9344 7966                          (+613) 9344 6728
  University of Melbourne, Parkville, 3052, Victoria, AUSTRALIA
----------------------------------------------------------------------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Aug  2 06:45:05 1995
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To all those interested in my PC-based EFI controller schematic, software and
supporting techie info.  I'm planning to put together a zipfile with
everything needed to get it up and running with minimal trouble.  I will
either place it at an FTP site or uuencode it and send it to people on
request.  In any case, I will be away until 8/14 so be patient, I will make
it availble when I return.  Thanks for all the interest.

                                         - Al -
alipper@aol.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug  3 01:32:53 1995
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To: DIY_EFI
From: spm4@cornell.edu (Sean Magnuson)
Subject: FJ1200 Project (still waiting!)
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        I've been eagerly awaiting a response from someone concerning my
FJ1200 project.  Since my last posting I reviewed literature from
Electromotive, Inc., and found their systems to be very applicable,
especially the "A" series individual throttle bodies and associated
hardware, but found their prices to be somewhat higher than I would like
(system cost ~$2,500).  They require significant licensing fees and major
upgrade fees for all their control and calibration software.  I am waiting
for lit. from Haltech, Bosch, and a few others, but have had little luck in
finding other sources.  Any suggestions?  Again, I appreciate any help you
have to offer.


Thanks,


Sean Magnuson

spm4@cornell.edu




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug  3 04:31:05 1995
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Date: Wed, 02 Aug 1995 23:27:41 -0500
To: DIY_EFI
From: ricrain@computek.net (Ric Rainbolt)
Subject: Re: efficiencies
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>Typical efficiency for a modern efi engine would be around 30-32% at the
>point of maximum efficiency  (WOT 2000 - 5000 rpm).  Overall operating
>efficiency may be 5-10% depending on use.

That's actually fairly useful info!  I have some additional questions:

Q: What is the typical pumping efficiency of a 4 valve small bore engine
(say, around 3" bore)?

Q: Does pumping efficiency typically go down with bore size?

Q: What is a typical mach index for a small bore 4 valve?

Q: How do these numbers change for a 2 valve motor?

Thanks,
Ric Rainbolt
ricrain@computek.net


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug  3 13:08:35 1995
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From: gt0035b@prism.gatech.edu (Henry David Sommer)
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Subject: Re: FJ1200 Project (still waiting!)
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 1995 09:06:54 -0400 (EDT)
In-Reply-To: <v02120003ac459de2e9de@[132.236.155.146]> from "Sean Magnuson" at Aug 2, 95 09:23:06 pm
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Sean Magnuson wrote
> 
>         I've been eagerly awaiting a response from someone concerning my
> FJ1200 project.  Since my last posting I reviewed literature from

> finding other sources.  Any suggestions?  Again, I appreciate any help you
> have to offer.

> spm4@cornell.edu

	The units from Acell cost less than $1,000 with software and I've
never heard anything good about Electromotive (YMMV).  I probably
shouldn't do this but since your address is Cornell maybe you should stop
by the FSAE team there. They need someone to distract them anyway :) They
have had fuel injection on their car for years and have probably used most
of the systems your looking at. I believe that they make their own system right
now.  If you don't know how to get in touch with them look up Dr. George
he is their advisor.

Henry Sommer | gt0035b@prism.gatech.edu | Georgia Institute of Technology
Year  88 | 90 | 91 | 92 | 93 | 94 | 95 | 96 | ME and MATE | FSAE since 92 
car # 66 | 23 | 23 | 42 | 42 | 99 | 99 | 5? | Maintainer of FSAE mailing list
place 11 |  2 |  6 | 23 |  3 |  6 | 11 | ?  | FSAE-request@list.gatech.edu



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug  4 09:42:00 1995
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From: Roger.Collier@UK.Sun.COM (Roger Collier)
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To: diy_efi
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Hi,

Using individual throttle bodies with inlet horns (velocity stacks)
Anyone know a formula for length of the inlet tract to give ram effect
at various rpm?

Mr Bowling's home page has a program but it doesn't take account of
valve timing so I'm not sure how useful it would be.

Roger.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug  4 15:44:05 1995
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From: Bruce Bowling <bowling@cebaf.gov>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI question
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Fri, 04 Aug 1995 11:41:49 EDT
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~ 
~ 
~ Hi,
~ 
~ Using individual throttle bodies with inlet horns (velocity stacks)
~ Anyone know a formula for length of the inlet tract to give ram effect
~ at various rpm?
~ 
~ Mr Bowling's home page has a program but it doesn't take account of
~ valve timing so I'm not sure how useful it would be.
~ 
~ Roger.
~ 

The pulsing effect is caused when the valve slams shut on the head, which
produces a pressure pulse which bounces between the throttle plates and
the valve, so in some sense valve timing IS taken into account.  What is
not taken into account are differing cam profiles, because you want the 
reflected pulse to arrive back when the valve is open, and air temperature
and vapor pressure.  However, the equations on the WWW page, which I
obtained from Superflow, are "empirical" enough to get a close ballpark.
Anything better needs more infomation, and a numerical simulation of
air density, piston speed, valve lift profiles, incident and reflected
wave bounces from the valve/throttle (which will cause diffusion), etc.

- Bruce

--
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------
               Bruce A. Bowling
  Staff Scientist - Instrumentation and Controls
 The Continuous Electron Beam Accelerator Facility
    12000 Jefferson Ave - Newport News, VA 23602
                 (804) 249-7240
                bowling@cebaf.gov  
        http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug  4 16:21:02 1995
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From: scot@mamacass.sp.trw.com (Scot O. Stockton)
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To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Closing loops...
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Reply-To: DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

Question came up here at work yesterday - since individual injectors are
controllable, has anyone closed loops around individual cylinder operation
by mounting sensors in the individual exhaust primaries?

And I found the energy density of gasoline to be ~123kBTU/gal, which I am
derating by 10% for L.A.s reformulated gas (getting ~10% poorer milage
generally).  Comment?

(And I haven't read the archives yet)

L8r,
-S                                [EFI Rat infested '39 Ford Tudor Sedan Deluxe]
{Chopped, nosed, shaved, slammed and frenched -
                                       - sounds sorta like Cher or Michael, no?}

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Aug  6 20:32:59 1995
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Date: Sun, 6 Aug 1995 15:25:19 -0500
From: Mike Klopfer <klopfer@eagle.natinst.com>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: efi on a pc
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Al Lipper wrote :

>    Given the number of people interested in my design, I think an FTP site
>would be a good idea.  Basically, the files of interest are the schematic
>(currently in OrCAD form, but probably more useful in a generic graphic
>format - any suggestions?), the functional description, a sample program
>(written in GW-BASIC) and an Excel 5 workbook (includes pulse calibration
>tables and graphs for a 2.5L TBI engine).  As far as the circuit itself goes,
>the main chips are an 8254 (programmable timer), an 8255 (Parallel I/O), and
>an ADC0816 (16 channel A/D converter).  The rest is address decoding, data &
>signal buffering, driver circuitry, and some clever glue logic.
>
>Please let me know how this is best organized. I was thinking of putting it
>all in one or two zip files - it is pretty small.  I will be on vacation
>until approx. 8/14, so I'll get it together when I return.
>
>                                   - Al -

I suggest having the schematic available in postscript at least. I'm wondering
if someone has space on an ftp site for this stuff. I don't know what an Excel
workbook is but I would like to see engine maps in some ascii human readable
form or at least postscript. Any other opinions?

mike



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Aug  7 13:52:24 1995
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From: dmorrill%spf.dnet@gpo.nsc.com (DAVE MORRILL HPL DESIGN ENG 207-775-8574)
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Subject: Engine dyno for EFI project
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Hello,
	Does anyone have any tips or plans on how to build an engine dyno? 
Before I start my efi project I want to build a dyno so I can benchmark my
results and debug the system in the shop.  
	I initially began thinking about using a disc brake for a load, and
measuring the torque-losses on the pad to get an approximate torque measurement
Even had a method to calibrate w/ a torque wrench.  The numbers would not be
exact but at least I would be able to see relative improvements as I made
changes to the efi system.
But then I though about a cast iron disc spinning at >7000 RPM and did not feel 
like this was very safe, heat and wear would be significant probs as well,
 - any comments ?  

I guess the industry uses a water pump for a load, I'm not sure how to do the 
calculations, do you use water pressure as a measurement, flow rate of
liquid?  What method could be used to calibrate?  Any advice on where to get an
applicable pump?

thanks,
	Dave.

	

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Aug  7 14:37:15 1995
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Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI project 
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Most dynos used for engine development at OEMs are electric.

For info on water dynos, you might try calling Superflow.  I think they
are based in Colorado Springs.  They may have some small, inexpensive
models or components.


---                                                                      
Anthony Tsakiris

The opinions expressed are my own and not necessarily those of my employer.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Aug  7 15:56:37 1995
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Date: Mon,  7 Aug 95 11:22:43 EST
From: Ed Lansinger <elansi01@mpg.gmpt.gmeds.com>
Subject: RE: Engine dyno for EFI project 
To: DIY_EFI
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Dave Morrill wrote:

>Does anyone have any tips or plans on how to build an engine dyno? 
>...
>I initially began thinking about using a disc brake for a load...

Of course, that's what early dynamometers were, a brake, giving rise to terms
such as "brake horsepower".

I'm not saying you can't do it, but I was part of a quick experiment once
to do just such a thing.  I would recommend against it unless you are willing
to put in some serious engineering analysis and development.  For that effort
and expense you'd be better off buying a water brake dyno as Anthony suggested.

>But then I though about a cast iron disc spinning at >7000 RPM and did not feel 
>like this was very safe, heat and wear would be significant probs as well,

Yes to all of the above.

>The numbers would not be
>exact but at least I would be able to see relative improvements as I made
>changes to the efi system.

If you are willing to live with that level of inaccuracy, then it seems to
me that in-vehicle tests will give you what you are looking for (I assume
this is for a vehicle of some sort).

>I guess the industry uses a water pump for a load, I'm not sure how to do the 
>calculations, do you use water pressure as a measurement, flow rate of
>liquid?  What method could be used to calibrate?

Measure the mass flow rate and the temperature rise across the water brake.

Just how much horsepower are you talking about?

There are machine shops that will rent dyno time.  That is probably the best
way to go in terms of safety and low capital investment.

-------------------------------------------------------
Ed Lansinger
General Motors Powertrain
Powertrain Control Center
Premium V Software & Calibration Group
Milford Proving Ground, Milford, MI
elansi01@mpg.gmpt.gmeds.com  8-341-3049  (810) 684-3049
-------------------------------------------------------



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Aug  7 16:32:14 1995
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From: Bruce Bowling <bowling@cebaf.gov>
Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI project
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 1995 12:20:26 EDT
In-Reply-To: <9508071332.AA00902@gpo.nsc.com>; from "DAVE MORRILL HPL DESIGN ENG 207-775-8574" at Aug 07, 95 6:32 am
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~ 
~ Hello,
~ 	Does anyone have any tips or plans on how to build an engine dyno? 
~ Before I start my efi project I want to build a dyno so I can benchmark my
~ results and debug the system in the shop.  
~ 	I initially began thinking about using a disc brake for a load, and
~ measuring the torque-losses on the pad to get an approximate torque measurement
~ Even had a method to calibrate w/ a torque wrench.  The numbers would not be
~ exact but at least I would be able to see relative improvements as I made
~ changes to the efi system.
~ But then I though about a cast iron disc spinning at >7000 RPM and did not feel 
~ like this was very safe, heat and wear would be significant probs as well,
~  - any comments ?  
~ 
~ I guess the industry uses a water pump for a load, I'm not sure how to do the 
~ calculations, do you use water pressure as a measurement, flow rate of
~ liquid?  What method could be used to calibrate?  Any advice on where to get an
~ applicable pump?
~ 
~ thanks,
~ 	Dave.
~ 
~ 	
~ 

I had an idea a while back, but never followed up on it.  Why not use a
calibrated alternator for a load device?  For instance, when you turn
on the headlights, the engine RPMs drop down a small amount.  This
drop is caused by the alternator "sucking" up some of the total
energy delivered by the engine.  If one kept a constant current
draw on an alternator, a table of rotational torque vs. RPM can be created.
Even easier if one wants only relative power improvements:  make 
switchable load that can be electrically switched on and off the 
alternator (ie. alternator has either no load at all, or a fixed
electrical load), at at a given no alternator load RPM, switch
on the alternator load and watch the RPM drop and save this drop.
Now, after a engine modification, repeat the above - better engine
power means lower delta RPM (I think).

- Bruce

--
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------
               Bruce A. Bowling
  Staff Scientist - Instrumentation and Controls
 The Continuous Electron Beam Accelerator Facility
    12000 Jefferson Ave - Newport News, VA 23602
                 (804) 249-7240
                bowling@cebaf.gov  
        http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Aug  7 16:53:26 1995
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Date: Mon,  7 Aug 95 12:06:12 EST
From: Ed Lansinger <elansi01@mpg.gmpt.gmeds.com>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI question 
To: DIY_EFI
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Bruce Bowling wrote:

>The pulsing effect is caused when the valve slams shut on the head, which
>produces a pressure pulse which bounces between the throttle plates and
>the valve, so in some sense valve timing IS taken into account.

Just to clarify this portion of his message, it is my understanding
that the movement of the valve does not cause the pulse per se.  The
rarefaction wave that progresses away from the valve up the intake runner
begins shortly after the valve opens. When it reaches the end of the runner
(let's say we're at WOT and the runner opens to the atmosphere), the wave
gets reflected back toward the valve as a compression wave.  If the timing
is right, that wave arrives at the valve during the valve overlap period
(four-stroke assumed here) to assist in scavenging.

It's really a question of impedance.  When the valve does close, it may
push a little air backwards on its own (although the air would prefer to
slide around the valve, it's not like it's trapped).  However, the air
column in the runner has momentum and rebounds against the closed
valve, which I believe is the more significant effect.  What happened is
that the impedance of the valve suddenly went from low to high, and you
had inductance in the runner before it, so you get a ringing condition.

You should find the same effect in an engine with, say, rotary valves that
do not move colinearly with air flow.

I'd love to see Bruce's WWW page, but regrettably I don't have access from
here.

-------------------------------------------------------
Ed Lansinger
General Motors Powertrain
Powertrain Control Center
Premium V Software & Calibration Group
Milford Proving Ground, Milford, MI
elansi01@mpg.gmpt.gmeds.com  8-341-3049  (810) 684-3049
-------------------------------------------------------



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Aug  7 17:38:03 1995
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Subject: Electricaly braked dyno
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>~ 	I initially began thinking about using a disc brake for a load, and
>~ measuring the torque-losses on the pad to get an approximate torque measurement
>~ Even had a method to calibrate w/ a torque wrench.  The numbers would not be
>~ exact but at least I would be able to see relative improvements as I made
>
I
i>had an idea a while back, but never followed up on it.  Why not use a
>calibrated alternator for a load device?  For instance, when you turn
>on the headlights, the engine RPMs drop down a small amount.  This
>

Once upon a time I worked on a nuclear reactor program where the reactor
heated Nitrogen gas. The heated gas was expanded across a turbine to
extract mechanical power. The dyno was a large DC generator which drove a
resistance bank. Power into the bank was W=ExI. There were, of course,
friction, windage, and electrical parasitic losses. Loading on the turbine
was controlled by varying the generator's field current.

It was not an efficient system. Megawatts nuclear produced killowatts
electrical

Harmon



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Aug  7 17:44:07 1995
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Date: 07 Aug 95 13:42:40 EDT
From: Jeffrey.Giberstein@Dartmouth.EDU (Jeffrey Giberstein)
Subject: RE: Engine dyno for EFI project 
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We were looking into building our own dyno here at Dartmouth, too, but aborted
when we figured that someone might get hurt and one of the local farm equipment
rental places lent us a tractor dyno (cool!).

Someone recommended that you call Superflow to look into what they've got...
they're real nice and helpful over there if you just need info but if you
haven't got 20G's to lay down, they won't have any equipment for you.  I think
your best bet is to check out Stutska for a water brake.  I think their brakes
start around $1500 and I know they've been around a long time cause one of my
profs had a Stutska in the 60's.  Their # is 303-762-0553.

some other dyno companies are:

Dynamic Test: 415-856-7676

Dyno Lab: 206-243-8877

Go-Power: 214-446-2046

I think go-power has some more economically priced stuff, too.

Good luck & keep me posted on what you discover!

Jeff

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Aug  7 19:12:57 1995
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From: "Graydon D. Stuckey" <graydon@apollo.gmi.edu>
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To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI project
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On Mon, 7 Aug 1995, Bruce Bowling wrote:

> I had an idea a while back, but never followed up on it.  Why not use a
> calibrated alternator for a load device?  For instance, when you turn

	Some of the students at GMI built a dyno out of an alternator for 
their SAE supermileage project.  It worked OK for that engine, but that 
was only making a couple HP.  You need a very big alternator to draw 
100-200 hp.  That is basically how an Eddy current Dyno works.  You vary 
the electrical load on the alternator to maintain engine RPM, regardless 
of the engine's throttle position.

Later,									
Graydon D. Stuckey								
graydon@apollo.gmi.edu								
'86 Audi 5000 CS Turbo Quattro, GDS Racing Stage 1
'83 Mazda RX7 w/13B, GDS Racing Stage 58474


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug  8 00:40:56 1995
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Date: Mon, 7 Aug 1995 19:29:39 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Brandon L. Walters" <blw6870@jackson.freenet.org>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI project
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I have imagined such a project myself. I saw an article a few years back 
which described a portable dyno for military use. Rather than a water 
brake, they used a large blower, with adjustable vanes on it. There was 
intake from both sides, outlet at the top. That way it wouldn't try to 
walk around.

I also wondered, for tuning work, if a small trailer with a computer
controlled brake in it could be pulled.  Upon reaching a steady speed, the
computer would ease the brake on, while the operator tried to maintain
speed. Only for manual transmissions, I guess. 

Brandon

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Date: Mon, 7 Aug 1995 17:34:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Joel A. Robinson" <robinj@src.usbm.gov>
Subject: CO Emissions Problem
To: DIY_EFI <diy_efi>
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Hi All!

I hope you don't object to my posting of this message, as it doesn't 
really pertain to DIY_EFI but I bet some of you can answer the question 
intelligently, unlike some folks on the newsgroups.

My girlfriend has a 1985 Toyota Tercel SR5 4WD wagon.  The car has over 
200,000 miles on it (2nd hand Japanese engine installed at 140,000 miles) 
and she is planning on dumping it soon.  In the meantime, it has failed 
emissions testing twice and she has 30 days to do something about it.

Below are the results:

       RPM     HC (ppm)        CO (%)          CO + CO2 (%)
Limits          <220            <1.20           >6.00

Test 1: 965       70             .05            10.55
        2537      90            1.98 (FAIL)     12.60


After cleaning 3 mo. old NipponDenso Sparkplugs, new aircleaner, carburetor
cleaning, new cap & rotor...

Test 2: 920       25            0.00            13.16
        2570     139            3.68 (FAIL)     17.08     


Boy am I glad I wasted an afternoon on the car so it could do even worse!!!

The carburetor is supposedly a sealed unit so adjustments are not possible?

My question is this:  What can I do that will improve the CO number 
significantly, cheaply, easily and even temporarily?

Here are my initial ideas:

1.  Lean out combustion mixture to increase combustion temperature

	A.	Remove air cleaner
	B.	Kink the fuel line
	C.	Add _______ to the fuel (Alcohol, NitroMethane, ???)

2.  Adjust spark plug gap  (Do I want more or less?)

3.  Will spark timing affect this or not?


I drive a 1984 Plymouth (Mitsubishi) Colt GTS Turbo that is fuel injected 
and has never given me any trouble with emissions.  Therefore my knowlege 
of cars is somewhat limited to how to trick them or otherwise enourage them 
to go faster--none of this irritating carburetor with a zillion linkages 
and dashpots!!!!

I appologize again for disturbing your otherwise high-tech discussion,

Feel free to email me directly to reduce traffic.

Thanks,


Joel Robinson
robinj@src.usbm.gov



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From: lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky)
Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI project
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 1995 20:16:10 -0500 (CDT)
In-Reply-To: <Chameleon.4.00.950807114145.elansi01@ctlp0045.mpg.gmpt.gmeds.com> from "Ed Lansinger" at Aug 7, 95 11:22:43 am
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Ed Lansinger writes:
> Dave Morrill wrote:
> >Does anyone have any tips or plans on how to build an engine dyno? 
> >...
> >I initially began thinking about using a disc brake for a load...
> 
> Of course, that's what early dynamometers were, a brake, giving rise to terms
> such as "brake horsepower".
> 
> I'm not saying you can't do it, but I was part of a quick experiment once
> to do just such a thing.  I would recommend against it unless you are willing
> to put in some serious engineering analysis and development.  For that effort
>and expense you'd be better off buying a water brake dyno as Anthony suggested.

The problem is that all of that absorbed energy has to go somewhere--
And its going to go there as heat...   trying to absorb 200+ HP, I'd
guess youd about 30 seconds out of a typical set of pads and a rotor.
 
> If you are willing to live with that level of inaccuracy, then it seems to
> me that in-vehicle tests will give you what you are looking for (I assume
> this is for a vehicle of some sort).
 
Real timeslips from a dragstrip are VERY useful for high end tuning.

> >I guess the industry uses a water pump for a load, I'm not sure how to do the 
> >calculations, do you use water pressure as a measurement, flow rate of
> >liquid?  What method could be used to calibrate?
> 
> Measure the mass flow rate and the temperature rise across the water brake.
 
Ick, way too inaccurate and too complex.  Mount the absorber so that the
whole thing can spin.  Attach a bar that projects radially.  Use a
linear force measurement device to hold the other end of the bar.  A
heavy duty spring scale will work, a steel bar with a strain gauge is
preferable (and is what most commercial dynos use).   

Really high end commercial dynos will have a "torque cell" between the
engine and the absorber.  The torque is a shaft supported on bearings,
with strain gauges on the shaft and slip rings to make the electrical
connections.  Pretty accurate, very high dollar.

> There are machine shops that will rent dyno time.  That is probably the best
> way to go in terms of safety and low capital investment.

I've never verified this, but I've heard that used double roller 250HP
water brake chassis dynos go for around $2k.  These things are pretty
good for dialing in fuel/spark up to about 200 HP (rear wheel).  


-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky                        lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
http://www.edge.net/~lusky/                 (615) 726-8700
-------------------------------------   ------------------------------
68 Camaro Convertible - 350 / TH350  \_/ 80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug  8 01:34:17 1995
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From: lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky)
Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI project
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 1995 20:27:17 -0500 (CDT)
In-Reply-To: <199508071620.MAA23737@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu> from "Bruce Bowling" at Aug 7, 95 12:20:26 pm
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Bruce Bowling writes:
> 
> I had an idea a while back, but never followed up on it.  Why not use a
> calibrated alternator for a load device?  For instance, when you turn
> on the headlights, the engine RPMs drop down a small amount.  This
> drop is caused by the alternator "sucking" up some of the total
> energy delivered by the engine.  If one kept a constant current
> draw on an alternator, a table of rotational torque vs. RPM can be created.
> Even easier if one wants only relative power improvements:  make 
> switchable load that can be electrically switched on and off the 
> alternator (ie. alternator has either no load at all, or a fixed
> electrical load), at at a given no alternator load RPM, switch
> on the alternator load and watch the RPM drop and save this drop.
> Now, after a engine modification, repeat the above - better engine
> power means lower delta RPM (I think).

A standard 60amp automotive alternator can absorb about 2HP I think.
Not much use for an autmotive dyno..

We had a 250HP Eaton Eddy Current dyno at UTexas.  The absorber was a
giant DC generator that took up about twice as much space as my small
block Chevy did.  Water cooled, too.  And the associated power
electronics filled up three 3'x8'x3' cabinets.


-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky                        lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
http://www.edge.net/~lusky/                 (615) 726-8700
-------------------------------------   ------------------------------
68 Camaro Convertible - 350 / TH350  \_/ 80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug  8 03:17:28 1995
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From: robert dingli <r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Message-Id: <199508080304.NAA17598@mullian.ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI project
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 1995 13:04:22 +1000 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <9508071332.AA00902@gpo.nsc.com> from "DAVE MORRILL HPL DESIGN ENG 207-775-8574" at Aug 7, 95 06:32:00 am
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Dave writes,
> 
> Hello,
> 	Does anyone have any tips or plans on how to build an engine dyno? 
> Before I start my efi project I want to build a dyno so I can benchmark my
> results and debug the system in the shop.  

Dynos can be categorised according to the job that they have to do.
How much power will your engine produce at the flywheel?
Do you require the dyno to motor the engine?
Do you wish to do transient tests or even full drivecycle tests?

A water brake is one of the simplest and most rugged apparatus. (In fact,
I have a disassembled 450 HP H&F water brake (circa 1926) sitting under
a shelf that I want to get rid of one day.  It is still 12 years newer
than one of the units in our lab).

An eddy current load cell is also quite simple (especially air cooled
versions).  They basically comprise a truck retarder (usually a Telma)
with a controller and cooling system.  Our air cooled chassis dyno
will handle 350 bhp at the wheels and has been used to test prime movers
as well as many cars.

For more real world simulation applications, a motoring dyno may be required.
In out labs we use a couple of different configurations.  There is an
eddy current load and DC motor drive system.  My own work revolves around
a hydraulic dyno/motor.  The load cell is a hydraulic pump/motor.  Next
to this is a large 50HP DC motor with another hydraulic pump and a heat 
exchanger.  The system can switch from motoring to absorbing within milli-
seconds.  Often I have run out of fuel during fixed speed tests and not 
even noticed before checking the gauges.

There is also a large disk brake dyno that isn't currently used, so I assume
this system is possible.

For your application, have you considered a simple inertia dyno (as used
for motorcycle tuning).  They are basically a large flywheel.  Another 
option for single speed tests would be a large torque convertor + associated 
plumbing for cooling.

One word of warning.  Make sure your driveshaft is properly balanced and
shielded, and avoid speeds which excite their resonant frequencies.  You
will require a much larger than standard engine fylwheel and a flexible 
coupling in the driveline somewhere between engine and dyno to absorb 
torsional vibration.  I'm sorry to sound so grim, but a student was killed 
in Victoria earlier this year when a dyno driveshaft let go.

Robert Dingli
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
             Robert Dingli           r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Power and Control Systems                 Thermodynamics Research Lab
Electrical Engineering                    Mechanical Engineering
   (+613) 9344 7966                          (+613) 9344 6728
  University of Melbourne, Parkville, 3052, Victoria, AUSTRALIA
----------------------------------------------------------------------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug  8 07:54:21 1995
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From: Steve Baldwin <steveb@kcbbs.gen.nz>
Message-Id: <199508080741.TAA12641@kcbbs.gen.nz>
Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI project
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 1995 19:41:21 +1200 (NZST)
In-Reply-To: <199508080304.NAA17598@mullian.ee.mu.OZ.AU> from "robert dingli" at Aug 8, 95 01:04:22 pm
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While we are on the subject of dynos et al, is it feasible to measure
crankshaft twist between flywheel and front pulley (crank snout) ?
How is for later but I wonder if there's a whole lot of information
about what's happening inside, poking out both ends of the motor.

Just a thought.

Steve.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug  8 07:54:22 1995
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From: Michael Kent <ukentm01@mcl.ucsb.edu>
To: DIY_EFI
cc: diy_efi
Subject: Re: efi on a pc
In-Reply-To: <199508062025.PAA15278@eagle.natinst.com>
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How about .dxf for the CAD stuff and .jpg for the graphics... also maybe 
don't .zip it all or have two copies. My machine has trouble un-zipping 
some files.

MK


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug  8 08:16:57 1995
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From: Michael Kent <ukentm01@mcl.ucsb.edu>
To: DIY_EFI
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Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI project 
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K&N have also just put out a new system called the Dynojet. It's a 1200 
hp single roller chassis dyno. I think its electric. I saw it at the 
battle of the imports this weekend and it worked quite well...

Something a little more realistic you may want to try is using an 
accelerometer (sp?) hooked up to a laptop then logging acceleration runs 
through say 3rd gear.

p.s. if anyone has any ideas how to set a system like this up, I have two 
Mitsu accelerometers from the stock ABS system that I'd like to use...

MK

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug  8 08:25:10 1995
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>I suggest having the schematic available in postscript at least. I'm 
wondering
>if someone has space on an ftp site for this stuff. I don't know what an 
Excel
>workbook is but I would like to see engine maps in some ascii human 
readable
>form or at least postscript. Any other opinions?

I am ready set up Web.

rene@frank.ee



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From: Brian Neill Tiedemann <s914440@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Message-Id: <199508081023.UAA06310@minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU>
Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI project
To: DIY_EFI
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In-Reply-To: <199508080741.TAA12641@kcbbs.gen.nz> from "Steve Baldwin" at Aug 8, 95 07:41:21 pm
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Hello all,
Reading the comments on dynos and setting them up, I thought of a couple 
of very large hydraulic pump/motors which I have... one is a gear pump, 
the other a 'gerola' type piston pump. Has anyone used hydraulics to make 
an engine dyno? Is high RPM a problem with hydraulic pumps? Any ideas for 
what kind of restriction would be appropriate for this type of application?

just thoughts..

cheers,
Brian.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug  8 12:39:42 1995
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Another comment related to engine dynos ...

There also exist commerically available vehicle performance computers. If what
you're looking for is a quick, simple, and relatively inexpensive means of
evaluating the performance benefits of changes to your vehicle, this might
be the ticket.  The device I'm familiar is a small box, about 20 cm x 10 cm
x 5 cm, with an accelerometer, an LED display, and some electronics.  It
could be easily mounted to a dashboard or suction-cupped to a windshield.
It recorded 0-60 mph time, 0-100 ft time and speed, etc.  It was very
easy to use, portable, less than $500, and when used with care (i.e. average
several tests, run the vehicle both directions to minimize wind and elevation 
effects) it proved helpful in evaluating supercharger changes.  I cannot
remember the name of the device, but I have seen it sold via Ford Motorsport.
Has anyone else used one of these things or recall the name?


---                                                                      
Anthony Tsakiris

The opinions expressed are my own and not necessarily those of my employer.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug  8 13:15:12 1995
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From: dmorrill%spf.dnet@gpo.nsc.com (DAVE MORRILL HPL DESIGN ENG 207-775-8574)
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Subject: Engine dyno for EFI reqs 450-500hp
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All,
	Great comments on engine dyno's, much thanks! 
Many asked what our requirements are.

-Target HP for the engine we are building is 400HP (turbo, Efi ~114 oct gas, 
	ESC.)
-Engine is for a drag car, however, typically we are only able to get
	3-4 passes in before racing starts, this does not provide as much
	of an opportunity for tuning the engine as I'm sure we will initially 
	need as we bring an EFI system online from the ground up.  
-Would like to be able to do static RPM as well as transient testing.
-From your comments it seems a water brake may be the best way to go, however
        the transmission torque converter idea seems interesting as well???  
        Can they absorb the power/heat reliably?

Can anyone recommend some reading for dyno testing strategies (I'm not familiar
with the motoring technique that Robert Dingli mentioned)?  Books, SAE papers,
articles, etc...  So far I've been unable to find any significant text on this
topic, I will be contacting the dyno mfgs that Jeff and Anthony Tsakiris
mentioned ASAP.
                                                                  
Thanks and Best Regards,
			Dave.


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From: kozuhia@latcs1.lat.oz.au
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Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI project
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 1995 23:15:19 +1000 (EST)
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> 
> 
> Another comment related to engine dynos ...
> 
> There also exist commerically available vehicle performance computers. If what
> you're looking for is a quick, simple, and relatively inexpensive means of
> evaluating the performance benefits of changes to your vehicle, this might
> be the ticket.  The device I'm familiar is a small box, about 20 cm x 10 cm
> x 5 cm, with an accelerometer, an LED display, and some electronics.  It
> could be easily mounted to a dashboard or suction-cupped to a windshield.
> It recorded 0-60 mph time, 0-100 ft time and speed, etc.  It was very
> easy to use, portable, less than $500, and when used with care (i.e. average
> several tests, run the vehicle both directions to minimize wind and elevation 
> effects) it proved helpful in evaluating supercharger changes.  I cannot
> remember the name of the device, but I have seen it sold via Ford Motorsport.
> Has anyone else used one of these things or recall the name?
> 
> 
> ---                                                                      
> Anthony Tsakiris
> 
> The opinions expressed are my own and not necessarily those of my employer.
> 

I used a Vericom machine once. That was the brand I think. costs about
500 bucks, very easy to use

hope this helps
-- 

ivan

kozuhia@latcs2.lat.oz.au


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug  8 13:16:26 1995
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Date: Tue, 8 Aug 1995 15:20:17 +0100
To: DIY_EFI
From: set@mt.luth.se (Sven-Erik Tiberg)
Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI project
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>Hello,
>        Does anyone have any tips or plans on how to build an engine dyno?
>Before I start my efi project I want to build a dyno so I can benchmark my
>results and debug the system in the shop.
>
>I guess the industry uses a water pump for a load, I'm not sure how to do the
>calculations, do you use water pressure as a measurement, flow rate of
>liquid?  What method could be used to calibrate?  Any advice on where to get an
>applicable pump?
>
>thanks,
>        Dave.

Hi Dave.

        What about to use a torqe converter from a car. Block the output
shaft and fill it more or less with oil. Pump the oil to/from a tank of
250L.
If neserarry wind a coldwater tube in the tank. It could work;-). and it
would be very economic.

Any opinion on this?

We are using Schenk eddie current and water brakes in the labbs.

--- Sven-Erik Tiberg set@mt.luth.se ----



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug  8 14:09:43 1995
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From: Bruce Bowling <bowling@cebaf.gov>
Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI project
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Tue, 08 Aug 1995 10:07:14 EDT
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~ 
~ 
~ Another comment related to engine dynos ...
~ 
~ There also exist commerically available vehicle performance computers. If what
~ you're looking for is a quick, simple, and relatively inexpensive means of
~ evaluating the performance benefits of changes to your vehicle, this might
~ be the ticket.  The device I'm familiar is a small box, about 20 cm x 10 cm
~ x 5 cm, with an accelerometer, an LED display, and some electronics.  It
~ could be easily mounted to a dashboard or suction-cupped to a windshield.
~ It recorded 0-60 mph time, 0-100 ft time and speed, etc.  It was very
~ easy to use, portable, less than $500, and when used with care (i.e. average
~ several tests, run the vehicle both directions to minimize wind and elevation 
~ effects) it proved helpful in evaluating supercharger changes.  I cannot
~ remember the name of the device, but I have seen it sold via Ford Motorsport.
~ Has anyone else used one of these things or recall the name?
~ 
~ 
~ ---                                                                      
~ Anthony Tsakiris
~ 
~ The opinions expressed are my own and not necessarily those of my employer.
~ 

The unit I have used is the Vericom computer.  It works OK for street cars
but cars with much vibration (racing) will cause false readings.

One can do the same thing on the street (quite crude) by correlating engine
RPMS with MPH (i.e. staying in one gear) and doing WOT acceleration runs
saving the time it takes to obtain various RPMs, like 1000 RPM increments.
A little math will yield a result for horsepower and torque.  This method
is quite error prone, however, and neither the Vericom or the "road" dyno
technique I just described take into account differing environmental 
conditions, which can have a major impact on results.  Of course, one
can correct obtained values to standard or SAE conditions (I have a WEB
page which performs the correction calculation).

If there is interest, I can make a web page which does the math for the 
road dynomometer test (with environment correction).

- Bruce

--
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------
               Bruce A. Bowling
  Staff Scientist - Instrumentation and Controls
 The Continuous Electron Beam Accelerator Facility
    12000 Jefferson Ave - Newport News, VA 23602
                 (804) 249-7240
                bowling@cebaf.gov  
        http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug  8 14:33:07 1995
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Date: Tue, 8 Aug 95 16:31:47 +0200
From: etxmst@sta.ericsson.se (Markus Strobl)
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To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI project
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> >Hello,
> >        Does anyone have any tips or plans on how to build an engine dyno?
> >Before I start my efi project I want to build a dyno so I can benchmark my
> >results and debug the system in the shop.
> >
> >I guess the industry uses a water pump for a load, I'm not sure how to do the
> >calculations, do you use water pressure as a measurement, flow rate of
> >liquid?  What method could be used to calibrate?  Any advice on where to get an
> >applicable pump?
> >
> >thanks,
> >        Dave.
> 
> Hi Dave.
> 
>         What about to use a torqe converter from a car. Block the output
> shaft and fill it more or less with oil. Pump the oil to/from a tank of
> 250L.
> If neserarry wind a coldwater tube in the tank. It could work;-). and it
> would be very economic.
> 
> Any opinion on this?

I don't think this is a good idea. What you're describing is similar
to power braking a car, i.e. pressing the gas and the brake at the
same time. Torque converter manufacturers warn that more than 10
secs of power braking can cause something called balloning. Balloning
is caused by the extreme internal pressures during power braking, and
it ruins the converter. 

Markus (also in Sweden...Hi Sven-Erik)

> We are using Schenk eddie current and water brakes in the labbs.
> 
> --- Sven-Erik Tiberg set@mt.luth.se ----
> 
> 
> 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug  8 14:40:07 1995
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From: etxmst@sta.ericsson.se (Markus Strobl)
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To: DIY_EFI
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> Another comment related to engine dynos ...
> 
> There also exist commerically available vehicle performance computers. If what
> you're looking for is a quick, simple, and relatively inexpensive means of
> evaluating the performance benefits of changes to your vehicle, this might
> be the ticket.  The device I'm familiar is a small box, about 20 cm x 10 cm
> x 5 cm, with an accelerometer, an LED display, and some electronics.  It
> could be easily mounted to a dashboard or suction-cupped to a windshield.
> It recorded 0-60 mph time, 0-100 ft time and speed, etc.  It was very
> easy to use, portable, less than $500, and when used with care (i.e. average
> several tests, run the vehicle both directions to minimize wind and elevation 
> effects) it proved helpful in evaluating supercharger changes.  I cannot
> remember the name of the device, but I have seen it sold via Ford Motorsport.
> Has anyone else used one of these things or recall the name?

Sounds like one of the Vericom computers. I have a VC200 and have found
it very useful in determining improvements to my Camaro after changing
camshaft, rear gears etc. 

Markus
> 
> ---                                                                      
> Anthony Tsakiris
> 
> The opinions expressed are my own and not necessarily those of my employer.
> 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug  8 16:32:29 1995
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Vericom!  That's the one.  Thanks.

---                                                                      
Anthony Tsakiris

The opinions expressed are my own and not necessarily those of my employer.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug  8 18:12:35 1995
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From: Jody Shapiro <t-jodysh@microsoft.com>
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Date: Tue,  8 Aug 95 10:06:39 PDT
Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI project
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> From: Michael Kent  <ukentm01@mcl.ucsb.edu>
>
> K&N have also just put out a new system called the Dynojet. It's a 1200
> hp single roller chassis dyno. I think its electric. I saw it at the
> battle of the imports this weekend and it worked quite well...
>
> Something a little more realistic you may want to try is using an
> accelerometer (sp?) hooked up to a laptop then logging acceleration runs
> through say 3rd gear.
>
> p.s. if anyone has any ideas how to set a system like this up, I have two
> Mitsu accelerometers from the stock ABS system that I'd like to use...

You mentioned accelerometers.  Does anyone know of/have a list of 
manufacturers and distributors with them in stock?  I'm trying to find 
something in the <$100 range, 0-5g...

Analog Devices makes two popular accelerometer chips, the ADXL05 and 
the ADXL50 (5g & 50g accelerometers), but the factory is backordered 
until March of '96, and I can't seem to find a distributor that has any 
in stock.  Apparently the chips are real popular with auto 
manufacturers for use in air bags.

IC Sensors makes some chips, but they seem a bit too high on my price 
range (around the $100 mark).

Thanks,
-Jody



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug  8 18:21:56 1995
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> Analog Devices makes two popular accelerometer chips, the ADXL05 and 
> the ADXL50 (5g & 50g accelerometers), but the factory is backordered 
> until March of '96, and I can't seem to find a distributor that has any 
> in stock.  Apparently the chips are real popular with auto 
> manufacturers for use in air bags.

Try Newark for the ADXL05.

--rod.

--
Rod Barman, IRIS ISDE-6 @ Laboratory for Computational Intelligence
University of British Columbia
rodb@cs.ubc.ca


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug  8 18:33:45 1995
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From: matny@isy.liu.se (Mattias Nyberg)
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I've noticed that several cars have two lambda sensors, one
before the catalyst and the other after. I've heard that one
reason for this is to improve the closed loop fuel control.
How does it work? What is gained by using the second lambda
sensor? Isn't the oxygen that the first lambda sensor measures
used up in the catalyst so there is no oxygen left for the
second lambda sensor to measure?

Mattias Nyberg


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug  8 19:13:23 1995
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From: Bruce Bowling <bowling@cebaf.gov>
Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI project
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Tue, 08 Aug 1995 15:10:52 EDT
In-Reply-To: <"3123*rodb@cs.ubc.ca"@MHS>; from "Rod Barman" at Aug 08, 95 11:19 am
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~ 
~ 
~ > Analog Devices makes two popular accelerometer chips, the ADXL05 and 
~ > the ADXL50 (5g & 50g accelerometers), but the factory is backordered 
~ > until March of '96, and I can't seem to find a distributor that has any 
~ > in stock.  Apparently the chips are real popular with auto 
~ > manufacturers for use in air bags.
~ 
~ Try Newark for the ADXL05.
~ 
~ --rod.
~ 
~ --
~ Rod Barman, IRIS ISDE-6 @ Laboratory for Computational Intelligence
~ University of British Columbia
~ rodb@cs.ubc.ca
~ 
~ 

Motorola has a new set of accelerometer chips out that contain the
accelerometer element, and the supporting bridge components, temp.
compensated, so the only connections are +5V, ground, and voltage
output.  I think that these are expensive critters, however.

- Bruce

--
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------
               Bruce A. Bowling
  Staff Scientist - Instrumentation and Controls
 The Continuous Electron Beam Accelerator Facility
    12000 Jefferson Ave - Newport News, VA 23602
                 (804) 249-7240
                bowling@cebaf.gov  
        http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug  8 19:26:26 1995
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I just rec'd ADXL05's from Allied Electronics. The process took about 3 weeks.

Dan Furgason

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> You mentioned accelerometers.  Does anyone know of/have a list of 
> manufacturers and distributors with them in stock?  I'm trying to find 
> something in the <$100 range, 0-5g...
> 
> Analog Devices makes two popular accelerometer chips, the ADXL05 and 
> the ADXL50 (5g & 50g accelerometers), but the factory is backordered 
> until March of '96, and I can't seem to find a distributor that has any 
> in stock.  Apparently the chips are real popular with auto 
> manufacturers for use in air bags.

I ordered a couple of these from Newark just a couple weeks ago. They
only had the ADXL05 "J" part (I think thats it) in stock.  They were
about $20 each.

Didn't someone just come out with a single chip accelerometer that can
be programmed to give one of two axes or rotational acceleration.  As
I recall the chip was supposed to cost about $9.

-tim



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From: "Graydon D. Stuckey" <graydon@apollo.gmi.edu>
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To: Mattias Nyberg <matny@isy.liu.se>
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On Tue, 8 Aug 1995, Mattias Nyberg wrote:

> I've noticed that several cars have two lambda sensors, one
> before the catalyst and the other after. I've heard that one
> reason for this is to improve the closed loop fuel control.
> How does it work? What is gained by using the second lambda
> sensor? Isn't the oxygen that the first lambda sensor measures
> used up in the catalyst so there is no oxygen left for the
> second lambda sensor to measure?
Mattias,

	I have been told by a Ford calibration engineer that the second 
oxygen sensor is to measure catalytic convertor efficiency over long 
periods of time for the upcoming OBD-II requirements.  It also fine tunes 
A/F ratio a little, but the OBD-II is the primary reason.

Later,									
Graydon D. Stuckey								
graydon@apollo.gmi.edu								
'86 Audi 5000 CS Turbo Quattro, GDS Racing Stage 1
'83 Mazda RX7 w/13B, GDS Racing Stage 58474


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----------
> From:  <tdrury@SPBTED.gtri.gatech.edu>
> I ordered a couple of these from Newark just a couple weeks ago. They
> only had the ADXL05 "J" part (I think thats it) in stock.  They were
> about $20 each.

I talked to them the other day and they said they were out until March '96.

> Didn't someone just come out with a single chip accelerometer that can
> be programmed to give one of two axes or rotational acceleration.  As
> I recall the chip was supposed to cost about $9.

I'd be *very* interested in this chip if anyone knows anything about it.

> From:  <furgason@hg.uleth.ca>
> I just rec'd ADXL05's from Allied Electronics. The process took about 
3 weeks.

I called Allied and they're out of everything.  The earliest they 
expect to receive anything are the "SP" version of the ADXL05 in 
October.  Everything else is January.  :(

I also spoke with Motorola.  They're in the preproduction process of 
introducing 3 new accelerometer chips (expected production date of 
September sometime).  The three accelerometers are a 40g, a 250g, and a 
500g sensor with a sample price of approx. $30.  They're working on a 
1-2g sensor, but that's still in the development process.

-Jody



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From: robert dingli <r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Message-Id: <199508090143.LAA14719@mullian.ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI reqs 450-500hp
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 11:43:19 +1000 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <9508081248.AA16682@gpo.nsc.com> from "DAVE MORRILL HPL DESIGN ENG 207-775-8574" at Aug 8, 95 05:48:03 am
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Hello again,
> 
> All,
> 	Great comments on engine dyno's, much thanks! 
> Many asked what our requirements are.
> 
> -Target HP for the engine we are building is 400HP (turbo, Efi ~114 oct gas, 
> 	ESC.)
> -Engine is for a drag car, however, typically we are only able to get
> 	3-4 passes in before racing starts, this does not provide as much
> 	of an opportunity for tuning the engine as I'm sure we will initially 
> 	need as we bring an EFI system online from the ground up.  

Since the engine is for drag racing and will only produce power in short 
spurts, then a water brake or eddy current dyno of lower static capacity
would suffice providing the connection is strong enough and that you
gave it time to cool between runs.  It's not uncommon to get an air cooled
eddy current rotor glowing red hot.

> -Would like to be able to do static RPM as well as transient testing.
> -From your comments it seems a water brake may be the best way to go, however
>         the transmission torque converter idea seems interesting as well???  
>         Can they absorb the power/heat reliably?
> 

I don't know the specifics of using a torque convertor - it was just an idea
I had.  As someone else pointed out, this may prove to be an unfeasable
method.

> Can anyone recommend some reading for dyno testing strategies (I'm not familiar
> with the motoring technique that Robert Dingli mentioned)?  Books, SAE papers,
> articles, etc...  So far I've been unable to find any significant text on this
> topic, I will be contacting the dyno mfgs that Jeff and Anthony Tsakiris
> mentioned ASAP.

Motoring is when the dyno actually forces the engine to turn over.  It is
used for simulating the inertial effects of a car when the throttle is
released and the car is coasting with the engine acting as a brake.

You won't have to worry about this for your application.

>                                                                   
> Thanks and Best Regards,
> 			Dave.
> 
> 

Robert Dingli

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
             Robert Dingli           r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Power and Control Systems                 Thermodynamics Research Lab
Electrical Engineering                    Mechanical Engineering
   (+613) 9344 7966                          (+613) 9344 6728
  University of Melbourne, Parkville, 3052, Victoria, AUSTRALIA
----------------------------------------------------------------------


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From: "Andrew Dennison" <ADEN@mechman.mm.swin.edu.au>
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To: DIY_EFI
Date:          Wed, 9 Aug 1995 11:46:16 EST+10
Subject:       Re: Engine dyno for EFI project
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Jonathan R. Lusky wrote:
> Really high end commercial dynos will have a "torque cell" between the
> engine and the absorber.  The torque is a shaft supported on bearings,
> with strain gauges on the shaft and slip rings to make the electrical
> connections.  Pretty accurate, very high dollar.
> 
Why not mount strain gauges on the gearbox input shaft, or the 
tail-shaft.  You can get around 5% accuracy (or better) in the basic 
strain reading and if you use a few equations and know the material 
the gauges are mounted on you can calculate torque.  The tricky part 
might be building some reliable slip rings.  You can build a strain 
gauge amplifier quite easily.

This could be a true on-road dyno, get instantaneous torque readings 
under acceleration or tune under constant load (feet on brake AND 
accelerator to maintain speed).


Andrew

------------------------------------
Andrew Dennison - Research Associate
The CIM Centre                Address: CIM Centre
Melbourne, AUSTRALIA                   Swinburne University
Phone: +61 3 9214 8296                 PO Box 218
Fax:   +61 3 9819 4949                 Hawthorn Victoria 3122
WWW:   http://cim.mm.swin.edu.au/      Australia

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From: Craig Pugsley <c.pugsley@trl.oz.au>
Message-Id: <199508090141.LAA00415@shiva.trl.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI reqs 450-500hp
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 11:41:46 +1000 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <9508081248.AA16682@gpo.nsc.com> from "DAVE MORRILL HPL DESIGN ENG 207-775-8574" at Aug 8, 95 05:48:03 am
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> All,
> 	Great comments on engine dyno's, much thanks! 
> Many asked what our requirements are.
> 
> -Target HP for the engine we are building is 400HP (turbo, Efi ~114 oct gas, 
> 	ESC.)
> -Engine is for a drag car, however, typically we are only able to get
> 	3-4 passes in before racing starts, this does not provide as much
> 	of an opportunity for tuning the engine as I'm sure we will initially 
> 	need as we bring an EFI system online from the ground up.  
> -Would like to be able to do static RPM as well as transient testing.
> -From your comments it seems a water brake may be the best way to go, however
>         the transmission torque converter idea seems interesting as well???  
>         Can they absorb the power/heat reliably?

I thought a dyno with a big disc brake on the output of the engine
(either via an automatic transmission or with a brake master cylinder
hydraulically/mechanically feeding back to keep the load constant), with
a water spray on the brake to cool it. Perhaps a truck differential and
brake assembly (ignore the fact that this would weigh serveral hundred
kilos).

Alternatively, how about a hacked automatic transmission with a varying
amount of fluid in the convertor (no fluid=no load, full of fluid~=
lockup). To implement this I thought you could drill some outlet holes
on the outside periphery of the torque convertor to provide drainage,
and the flow rate of fluid into the convertor varied to provide the
level of fluid. Obviously this might need some fancy control to get it
to work due to the drainage rate being faster at higher speeds. Also, if
the drainage rate is not even the whole assembly could be out of balance
(not nice at 7000 RPM :-(

Or, how about driving another engine set up as a water pump
(eg remove the valves or play with the cam timing so you don't try to
compress the water, and have the water so it alternates between
cylinders, with a water tap that is variable to control the load.)

With any home brew type arrangement (especially when you're testing the
400hp sort of stuff mentioned above), I'd suggest something solid around
the load device (eg 1/4" plate steel scatter shield), and the testing
be done remotely (ie brick wall between you and the test rig.).

Cheers,
Craig.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Aug  9 10:51:52 1995
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Date: Tue, 08 Aug 1995 19:43:00 +0000
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI project
To: DIY_EFI
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-> brake, they used a large blower, with adjustable vanes on it. There

 We hashed through a lot of this on the hotrod list a couple of years
ago.  The cheapest, simplest, most accurate system you could reasonably
build at home would use a ducted aircraft propeller as the power
absorber, with moving panels to control inlet air.  Although it would
probably be just great as the Leaf Blower From Hell, the noise would be
a factor in most locations.

 Once you get past 50hp or so, it's hard to get rid of power.  Where are
parasitic losses when you *need* them?
                                                                                                                             

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Aug  9 12:25:06 1995
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From: Dale Ulan <ulan@ee.ualberta.ca>
Subject: Re: dual lambda sensors]
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 95 6:22:49 MDT
In-Reply-To: <9508081829.AA02744@macken.isy.liu.se>; from "Mattias Nyberg" at Aug 8, 95 8:29 pm
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> How does it work? What is gained by using the second lambda
> sensor? Isn't the oxygen that the first lambda sensor measures
> used up in the catalyst so there is no oxygen left for the
> second lambda sensor to measure?

What the O2 sensor measures isn't as straigtforward as you'd think.
The sensor measures rich/lean as everybody expects... rich = .8 volts,
lean = .1 volts (approx). The O2 sensor doesn't really respond to
oxygen content, since engine misfires don't cause just a LEAN indication...
If the engine is misfiring, a misfire rate of up to 2% gives an indication
of LEAN, but RICH if it the misfire rate is over 3%. 
...
The p-p voltage output
of the downstream sensor is used to determine catalyst efficiency. The
cat works by oxygen storage: NOx oxygen is used to get rid of HC and CO.
This alternating effect causes the downstream sensor to normally read
a constant (normally close to 100 mv), since the cat averages everything
out. If the cat looses efficiency, the output voltage starts to get
rich 'bumps' in the output.
If you have access to SAE papers, 920289 is a pretty good one on these
sensors.

-Dale

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Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI reqs 450-500hp
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 07:33:15 -0500 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <199508090143.LAA14719@mullian.ee.mu.OZ.AU> from "robert dingli" at Aug 9, 95 11:43:19 am
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>
>> Can anyone recommend some reading for dyno testing strategies (I'm not familiar
>> with the motoring technique that Robert Dingli mentioned)?  Books, SAE papers,
>> articles, etc...  So far I've been unable to find any significant text on this
>> topic, I will be contacting the dyno mfgs that Jeff and Anthony Tsakiris
>> mentioned ASAP.
>
>Motoring is when the dyno actually forces the engine to turn over.  It is
>used for simulating the inertial effects of a car when the throttle is
>released and the car is coasting with the engine acting as a brake.
>
>You won't have to worry about this for your application.

When I was at GMI, I used an electric dyno that as of the motoring type. It
was 4000 rpm max and I had a quad-4 attached to it. The way it worked was 
simple. The engine was mounted to a rigid plate and had all the connections
wired remotely to a separate room. The crankshaft was bolted to a big 
electric motor. The motor case was mounted in bearing so that it could 
spin freely and there was an arm mounted to the side of the motor case that
was attached to a load cell. The motor was an industrial variable phase
locked motor (or something like that). You dialed in the rpm and the motor
just spun at the rpm and could not be sped up or slowed down.

Now, you could play with the engine. Lets say you had the throttle wide
open, but no spark for fuel (ignition off). The dyno registered a negative
horsepower. This is the parasitic loss of the internals of the motor (windage,
oil pump, friction). At some point, you could get the engine to product 0hp. 
This would be equivalent to idle. As you went to wide open throttle, the
dyno registered positive horsepower. 

The design was simple. Finding an electric motor in the 7000-8000 rpm range
could be a problem. Also, I don't know how much electronics were required
to control the motor.

The ability to motor the engine was very useful, IMHO. Especially on a drag
engine, you are looking for the extra hp. Of course, this is a EFI group
and there is not much you can do electrically when the system is off...

-- 
(* Larry Piekarski, Lead Software Engineer *)
(*      Luxury Car HVAC Display Heads      *)
(*      c1ilep@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com     *)
(*      Delco Electronics, Kokomo, IN      *)

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Aug  9 14:50:23 1995
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From: SnoMo1@aol.com
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Al,
This sounds like just the ticket to get me started in the DIY EFI world. The
low cost, and AT bus availability makes it justifiable to get into.

Please send any schematics and code/programming info you can. OrCad files
should be ok (I believe we havve this at work).

Many Thanks,

Mark
SnoMo1@AOL.COM

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Aug  9 17:34:18 1995
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In-Reply-To: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
        "Re: Engine dyno for EFI project" (Aug  8,  7:43pm)
References: <156061.7.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us>
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On Aug 8,  7:43pm, Dave Williams wrote:
> Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI project

>  We hashed through a lot of this on the hotrod list a couple of years
> ago.  The cheapest, simplest, most accurate system you could reasonably
> build at home would use a ducted aircraft propeller as the power
> absorber, with moving panels to control inlet air.

What about jet type boat prop?  A friend and I kicked this idea around about a
year ago.  You could bypass around the prop to get some load control.  There
are variable pitch models as well.  You need a water resovoir but an above
ground pool with appropriate baffeling could do the trick.  We also thought
that a houseboat model would be cool.  We'll build the dyno room on the boat
and go to the local lake.  We could butt up against one of the bridge pylons
for a test session in between cruising the lake.

Jet props are wonderfully ineffeicient and it should be no problem to get one
to eat 300 to 400 HP.  The pool might boil after a while but the lake would
provide a near infinite sink.







-- 
Frank Marrone at marrone@optilink.dsccc.com
1965 Sunbeam Tiger B9471116
1960 Sumbean Pintopine Series I B9009330
1966 Ford LTD 4-door family barge.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Aug  9 18:12:19 1995
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Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 14:08:02 -0400
From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
Message-Id: <9508091808.AA03234@ivan.gallium.com>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI project
References: <156061.7.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us>
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> What about jet type boat prop?

If you are starting to look into boat dynos, Land & Sea Inc. makes a series of
dynos that bolt onto the prop shaft. These are inexpensive (relatively) at
around $5K but are complete including the dyno, hosing, and data collection
computer.

Land & Sea Inc.
P.O. Box 96
North Salem, NH
03073

(603)329-5645
(603)329-5036 (fax)
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Aug  9 21:00:32 1995
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Date: 09 Aug 95 16:55:21 EDT
From: Martin Evans <100341.377@compuserve.com>
To: DIY EFI Mailing List <DIY_EFI>
Subject: Re: Engine dyno for EFI project
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Welcome to the DIY Engine Dyno mailing list <g>

In the UK there is a device available that is effectively a dyno 
that can be hand held. It is used by the RACMSA (Our National 
Motor Racing Organisation) for power checks on engines. 
Apparently it takes measurements of the ignition timing and 
rpm when the engine is revved in neutral. 
It can measure up to 25000 rpm and is accurate to 10bhp 
or so up to 300bhp. The device is called the Schrick LM1. 
Pricing is approximately 1000GBP.

If anyone wants further details i'll be happy to oblige.

Does anyone know whats happening to SSI and the 67F687 
as supplies are drying up with even longer lead times being 
quoted (January/February next year at the moment)?

Martin Evans
100341.377@compuserve.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 10 12:46:59 1995
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From: gt9803a@prism.gatech.edu (Thomas Ennis Bragg Jr.)
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Subject: Sensor Specifications
To: DIY_EFI (EFI List)
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Hello,

Where would I be able to find technical specifications on GM sensors
like voltage and current levels, etc?

I need this info for TPS, CTS, MAP, MAT, O2 from an 87 Pontiac Sunbird Turbo.
But any info would help out.

Thanks

Ennis
-- 
Ennis Bragg	
gt9803a@prism.gatech.edu


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug 11 05:11:19 1995
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From: Grant Beattie <grantb@nait.ab.ca>
Subject: Grounds, Shielding, etc...
To: diy_efi
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I need your expert advice on how to best shield electronics from
noise/vibration generated in a vehicle so that the electronics can do it's
job best.  I'm partway into a data acquisition system (for a kart) and the
system has it's own internal battery.  Should my cpu "box" be grounded to
the chassis of the vehicle or should it be isolated?  Should various
sensors have metal shielding around their cabling? 

One example I can give you is that I have a magnet and hall sensor on the 
rear (solid for karts) axle.  This requires me to run +5v, Gnd and signal 
about 3' from the CPU to the sensor.  I'm using a cable which has a 
ground shield and two inner conductors on which I'm placing +5v and 
signal.  There is no connection whatsoever between this ground and the 
chassis.  Is this good or evil?

For what it's worth my preliminary tests were less than stunning with the 
CPU resetting itself intermittently.  For the time being I had housed it 
in an unshielded plastic case and I think the ignition noise from the 
heathen Briggs 5hp motor overwhelmed it.

Any ideas?
GB


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug 11 07:48:24 1995
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From: Brian Lane <blane@guetech.com>
To: Do it Yourself Fuel Injection <DIY_EFI>
Subject: In-Car Dynomometers
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  For anyone interested in in-car dynos you should check out the January 
1990 issue of Hot Rod Magazine (you do have years of back issues, don't 
you?).

  The article in there details the Banks Intertial Dynomometer. Due to 
various things, it was never released. It is a drag-horsepower dyno, 
giving you the real amount of HP your vehicle produces after factoring in 
frictional and air drag.

  The device is covered by a patent (4,603,582). There is a product on 
the market, but I can't remember the company that is producing it. It is 
out of Seattle, Wa, and is called Dyno-something-or-other.

  The prototype I have is 0-200MPH, 0-1000HP, and works well on my dinkly 
little 80HP 2.5l S-10 engine. I've also seen it in action in a 350HP 
Banks turbocharged Camaro.

  These dynos are different than the car-computers like the VC200. The 
VC200 measures time and distance I believe and do all of the calculations 
after the fact. With the inertial dyno you get realtime horsepower!

  If anyone is interested, I'll try to get the name and address of the 
company who is currently producing the dynos.

  Or, if you have an accurate enough accelerometer, you could probably 
figure out how to roll your own (1/100 of a G would probably work, 1/1000 
of a G acceleration accuracy is probably best).

   Brian

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"A little rebellion now and then is a good thing."   |   PGP Key and .plan
 -- President Thomas Jefferson                       | email Subj: blane-info
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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug 11 11:52:18 1995
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I would really like to know more about this Dyno, and what product is on the
market.  Please let us know what you find.

Thanks,

-Bonn

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug 11 15:19:25 1995
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Subject: Re: In-Car Dynomometers
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Fri, 11 Aug 1995 11:13:58 EDT
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~   These dynos are different than the car-computers like the VC200. The 
~ VC200 measures time and distance I believe and do all of the calculations 
~ after the fact. With the inertial dyno you get realtime horsepower!
~ 
The VC200 has an internal accelerometer, so it also uses inertial forces
to compute HP.  

- Bruce


--
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------
               Bruce A. Bowling
  Staff Scientist - Instrumentation and Controls
 The Continuous Electron Beam Accelerator Facility
    12000 Jefferson Ave - Newport News, VA 23602
                 (804) 249-7240
                bowling@cebaf.gov  
        http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug 11 19:39:53 1995
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From: John T Stein <JSTEIN@dpc2.hdos.hac.com>
Subject: Re: Sensor Specifications
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On 8-10, Thomas Ennis Bragg Jr wrote:
> 
> Where would I be able to find technical specifications on GM sensors
> like voltage and current levels, etc?
> 
> I need this info for TPS, CTS, MAP, MAT, O2 from an 87 Pontiac Sunbird Turbo.
> But any info would help out.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Ennis
> -- 
> Ennis Bragg	
> gt9803a@prism.gatech.edu
> 
The following describe the sensors on my '87 Fiero, from other 
experience with GM products I would expect these ranges to be 
typical of most product from GM.

TPS - This is a potentiometer between gnd and +5 volts.  Output 
ranges from ~0 at closed-throttle to ~5v at WOT.  Closed throttle 
offset from 0 is not critical as the ECM "learns" where closed 
throttle is.

CTS and MAT - These are voltage outputs from bridges in which a 
negative-tempco thermistor is pulled up to +5 volts.  Resistance of 
the thermistor ranges from hundreds of k-ohms in the cold to hundreds 
of ohms in the hot.  to complicate matters, my Fiero switches the 
value of the pullup resistance once the coolant temperature exceeds 
about 100 degrees to widen the temperature range where the bridge 
scale factor (volts/degree) is large enough to use.  Output is VERY 
nonlinear, but so what, I assuem the ECM has a look-up table.  I have 
calibrated the sensors on my Fiero and can give you some details if 
you're interested.

MAP - Outputs a signal which ranges from~0 to ~+5 volts. Pontiac has 
used (at least) two different MAP processors in the past, for one 0 
volts corresponds to atmospheric pressure, in the other ~5 volts 
correpsonds to atmosphere.  My Fiero uses the second type MAT 
processor.

O2 - A very high impedance source that ranges from ~-0 volt when lean 
to ~1 volt when rich.  Output characteristic makes "step" transition 
from 0 to 1 volt at ~stoichiometric ratio.  Look at the archive for 
this mail list for thorough, and good, discussion of the O2 sensor 
operation.


John
 

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Subject: RE: Grounds, Shielding, etc... 
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Grant Beattie wrote:

>I need your expert advice on how to best shield electronics from
>noise/vibration generated in a vehicle so that the electronics can do it's
>job best.
>...
>For what it's worth my preliminary tests were less than stunning with the 
>CPU resetting itself intermittently.  For the time being I had housed it 
>in an unshielded plastic case and I think the ignition noise from the 
>heathen Briggs 5hp motor overwhelmed it.

There are a number of ways to skin this cat.  I'll present one I've used
successfully in the past.

1. Put the electronics in a metal box that is fully sealed.
2. ALL wires that go through the box MUST pass through their own
feedthrough bypass capacitors (2,000pF per cap is about what you want).
Check out Murata-Erie or Spectrum Electronics.  These companies make DB-25,
-15, etc. connectors with feedthroughs built in, although they can be
expensive.  You can also get discrete feedthrough caps from Murata.
3. [Ideal, but not necessary with the above] CPU board should have an
extensive ground plane.

>Should my cpu "box" be grounded to
>the chassis of the vehicle or should it be isolated?

I grounded my box to the '-' terminal on the battery.  The battery was
mounted to the chassis with insulating rubber standoffs.  The chassis and
engine were also connected to battery '-'.  All sensors and actuators got
ground from the box, though, not the chassis or engine.  This prevented
ground loops.


>Should various
>sensors have metal shielding around their cabling? 

With the setup just mentioned, I didn't need shielding.  I found it useful,
though, to put metal braid over important wires for physical protection.

>One example I can give you is that I have a magnet and hall sensor on the 
>rear (solid for karts) axle.  This requires me to run +5v, Gnd and signal 
>about 3' from the CPU to the sensor.  I'm using a cable which has a 
>ground shield and two inner conductors on which I'm placing +5v and 
>signal.  There is no connection whatsoever between this ground and the 
>chassis.  Is this good or evil?

Should work just fine, I did the same thing.

I've done fiber optics, too, which worked great but are problematic
for analog signals.

I went through hell working on this problem the first time I encountered
it.  If you have any wire coming through the wall of the box that isn't
bypassed right at the wall, it will rebroadcast the RF inside the box
before it gets to a capacitor.

The OEM's bring their wires in, send them to the board, and then every
pin has a surface mount cap on the other side of the board between that
pin and ground.  Then they put a metal shield over the exposed pins and
put the whole thing in an aluminum box.  The value of the cap is about
1,000pF and is of N7R material if I recall correctly.  It is still important
that there is no line of sight path between any of the wires coming
in and any traces or chips on the board.

Make sure your software gracefully handles resets nonetheless.  Problem
is, you're probably seeing conditions where the processor just goes
off into space and the watchdog can't even bring it back.  The feedthrough
caps will solve this problem.

-------------------------------------------------------
Ed Lansinger
General Motors Powertrain
Powertrain Control Center
Premium V Software & Calibration Group
Milford Proving Ground, Milford, MI
elansi01@mpg.gmpt.gmeds.com  8-341-3049  (810) 684-3049
-------------------------------------------------------



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Aug 12 03:37:30 1995
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Date: Fri, 11 Aug 1995 22:21:20 -0500
To: DIY_EFI
From: ricrain@computek.net (Ric Rainbolt)
Subject: Re: In-Car Dynomometers
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>I would really like to know more about this Dyno, and what product is on the
>market.  Please let us know what you find.
>

At the risk of getting flamed, I would like to say "me too".  I would like
to include a 3-axis acceleromter circuit on the ECU I'm currently designing
and it would be nice to exploit them as much as possible.  Someone mentioned
having worked out the math for G's <--> HP (given mass and time, I guess)
and I would definately like to see that math, if possible.

Thanks,
Ric Rainbolt
ricrain@computek.net


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Aug 13 18:29:00 1995
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From: lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky)
Subject: Re: In-Car Dynomometers
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Sun, 13 Aug 1995 13:09:57 -0500 (CDT)
In-Reply-To: <199508111514.LAA17103@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu> from "Bruce Bowling" at Aug 11, 95 11:13:58 am
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Bruce Bowling writes:
> 
> ~   These dynos are different than the car-computers like the VC200. The 
> ~ VC200 measures time and distance I believe and do all of the calculations 
> ~ after the fact. With the inertial dyno you get realtime horsepower!
> ~ 
> The VC200 has an internal accelerometer, so it also uses inertial forces
> to compute HP.  

The Banks DynaFact had an external accelerometer and also an external
speed input (had it hooked to the speedo pulse generator on my truck).

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky                        lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
http://www.edge.net/~lusky/                 (615) 726-8700
-------------------------------------   ------------------------------
68 Camaro Convertible - 350 / TH350  \_/ 80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Aug 14 12:54:48 1995
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From: bohdan@ihgp.ih.att.com (Bohdan L Bodnar)
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Sensor Specifications
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>The following describe the sensors on my '87 Fiero, from other 
>experience with GM products I would expect these ranges to be 
>typical of most product from GM.
>
>TPS - This is a potentiometer between gnd and +5 volts.  Output 
>ranges from ~0 at closed-throttle to ~5v at WOT.  Closed throttle 
>offset from 0 is not critical as the ECM "learns" where closed 
>throttle is.
>

Close, but not quite.  Closed throttle voltage is around 0.5 to 0.6 volt.
Anything lower than this will set a diagnostic trouble code ("TPS shorted to
ground").

>CTS and MAT - These are voltage outputs from bridges in which a 
>negative-tempco thermistor is pulled up to +5 volts.  Resistance of 
>the thermistor ranges from hundreds of k-ohms in the cold to hundreds 
>of ohms in the hot.  to complicate matters, my Fiero switches the 
>value of the pullup resistance once the coolant temperature exceeds 
>about 100 degrees to widen the temperature range where the bridge 
>scale factor (volts/degree) is large enough to use.  Output is VERY 
>nonlinear, but so what, I assuem the ECM has a look-up table.  I have 
>calibrated the sensors on my Fiero and can give you some details if 
>you're interested.
>

This is done to limit analog-to-digital converter quantization error (similar
to mu-law and A-law companding in telecommunications).

>MAP - Outputs a signal which ranges from~0 to ~+5 volts. Pontiac has 
>used (at least) two different MAP processors in the past, for one 0 
>volts corresponds to atmospheric pressure, in the other ~5 volts 
>correpsonds to atmosphere.  My Fiero uses the second type MAT 
>processor.

Partially correct.  ALL GM MAP sensors which are not used with a turbocharged
engine will output something close to 5 volts at atmospheric pressure.  If
used with a turbocharged engine, a different MAP sensor is used -- its output
is 2.5 volts at "atmospheric" pressure.  The second type of sensor you're
referring to has two vacuum hose connections to it:  atmosphere and intake
manifold;  the output corresponds to the difference between the two pressure
signals.  I don't remember its name right now (MUCH too early in the
morning).
>
>O2 - A very high impedance source that ranges from ~-0 volt when lean 
>to ~1 volt when rich.  Output characteristic makes "step" transition 
>from 0 to 1 volt at ~stoichiometric ratio.  Look at the archive for 
>this mail list for thorough, and good, discussion of the O2 sensor 
>operation.
>
>
>John
> 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Aug 14 13:27:45 1995
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 95 09:21:16 EST
To: DIY_EFI
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> > Didn't someone just come out with a single chip accelerometer that can
> > be programmed to give one of two axes or rotational acceleration.  As
> > I recall the chip was supposed to cost about $9.
> 
> I'd be *very* interested in this chip if anyone knows anything about it.
> 
> -Jody

I finally found the data sheet.  Amp's ACH-04-08 is a 3-axis accelerometer
(y-axis, z-axis, and rotational acceleration around z-axis) that is fully
programmable.  You can read only 1 axis at a time in either digital or
analog format.  y-axis sensitivity is 1.5 mV/g, z-axis is 12 mV/g, and
rotational is 0.3 mV/rad/s^2.  I don't have time to quote the entire data
sheet but I think is has programmable gain (ie. ranges).  I was wrong
about the price: it is $30 (maybe I was thinking $10 per axis?). Oh yeah,
this data sheet and price is preliminary.

-tim



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Aug 14 15:13:50 1995
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From: Haynes David <DHaynes@ncsbst01ca.ntc.nokia.com>
To: DIY_EFI <DIY_EFI>
Subject: Weber Injection systems
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 95 16:05:00 eet
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Does anyone have any info, or know where I can find it,
on the Weber / Marelli injection system known as
IAW? It is used (apparently) on Lancia Delta twin cams and
Ford Sierra Cosworths as well as some Ferrari
and Maserati models.

I have recently acquired a Lancia Delta  (not turbo) which has
a problem where the engine idle will rise to around
2500rpm. It is probably not directly an idle problem
as the car will not run properly at any other rpms
while under load. It is an intermittent problem which does
not seem to be brought on by any specific circumstance
although it is worse (ie more common) during hot weather.
Has anyone known or heard of similar problems.
Workshop manuals for Deltas are only available from
Lancia at huge cost (unless YOU know different?)

I'm fairly familiar with  Bosch injection / management but
I cant find any info on this system, which measures manifold
pressure and temperature to calculate fuelling. If there is
another vehicle with a similar system that would be useful
as I might be able to get a manual or more info for that.

Sorry if this is the wrong place to post my question as Im
new to this list, but I hope someone has some useful info
for me!

Thanks in anticipation
     Dave H.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Aug 14 23:46:32 1995
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Date: Mon, 14 Aug 1995 16:32:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Brian Lane <blane@guetech.com>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: In-Car Dynomometers
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On Fri, 11 Aug 1995, Ric Rainbolt wrote:

> At the risk of getting flamed, I would like to say "me too".  I would like
> to include a 3-axis acceleromter circuit on the ECU I'm currently designing
> and it would be nice to exploit them as much as possible.  Someone mentioned
> having worked out the math for G's <--> HP (given mass and time, I guess)
> and I would definately like to see that math, if possible.

  Well the basic HP formula is:

    Weight(in lbs) x Acceleration(in Gees) x Speed (in MPH)
    -------------------------------------------------------
                            375

  The Auto Math handbook is also useful for various formulas.

   Brian

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"A little rebellion now and then is a good thing."   |   PGP Key and .plan
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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug 15 13:42:19 1995
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From: kaden00@taiu.edu (Nelson David E)
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Subject: Re: In-Car Dynomometers...math!
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 1995 08:39:28 -0500 (CDT)
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.3.91.950814162952.17488C-100000@guetech.com> from "Brian Lane" at Aug 14, 95 04:32:37 pm
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At one time, Brian Lane said:
> 
> On Fri, 11 Aug 1995, Ric Rainbolt wrote:
> 
> > At the risk of getting flamed, I would like to say "me too".  I would like
> > to include a 3-axis acceleromter circuit on the ECU I'm currently designing
> > and it would be nice to exploit them as much as possible.  Someone mentioned
> > having worked out the math for G's <--> HP (given mass and time, I guess)
> > and I would definately like to see that math, if possible.
> 
>   Well the basic HP formula is:
> 
>     Weight(in lbs) x Acceleration(in Gees) x Speed (in MPH)
>     -------------------------------------------------------
>                             375
> 
>   The Auto Math handbook is also useful for various formulas.
> 
>    Brian

What a conincidence, I worked out the eq. for mass, accel., dist, time 
last night.  Here's the run down:
   Force=Mass*Accel which has units Newtons => ((Kg)(m))/s^2
   Work =Force*Dist which has units NewtonMeters => ((Kg)(m^2))/s^2
   Power=Work/Time  which has units NewtonMeters/Second => ((Kg)(m^2))/s^3
   Power also has units of Joules/Second => Watts
   Joule's units are ((Kg)(m^2))/s^2
   Taking the units for Power=Work/Time, and subst. in Joules, we end up 
with Joules/Second which is what we are after.
   1 HP = 746 Watts.
   HP = Mass*Accel*Distance/(Seconds*746)
Since we are dealing with power, all we need to do is add/subtract the 
relavent powers. Define "+" power as "stuff to make the car go" and "-" 
power as the "stuff that makes us not go as fast as we would really want".

Granted, I know there will be drag coeff., rolling resistance, frictions 
etc. adding to the negative power.  But I figure that wind resistance is 
the greater contributor to this at least above 35-40 mph.  Any comments 
out there on that one? 

Ok, so here goes, set up your little accelerometer/cpu.  I was thinking of
triggering off the lead weight of the rim (assuming only one was there)
that way I could get the distance.  Now here is a thought, measure the
change of velocity of the lead weight and we have acceleration...hmmmmm. 
Some aftermarket cruise controls place a magnet on the drive shaft, I
don't see why that can't be used, just use their sensor/magnet setup. 
First I'd take the vehicle up to, say, 100 mph, set it in neutral and
start logging data every .5-1 second.  This will give you the HP required,
"-", to maintain that speed.  Do this two times, once in the wind and once
with the wind and average them.  (Mayby a couple of times would be 
better).  BTW, doing this while a weather system is
coming in probably isn't the best idea either. Now do some time trials
with the vehicle in one gear.  I guess 2nd or 3rd and collect the data. 
Now, HPwheel(mph)=HPaccel(mph)-HPdecel(mph).  The HPdecel is gathered from
the first run from 100 -> 20 mph. Once we have the numbers and knowing 
the tranny/transaxle/rear axle ratios we can calc. the HP vs. RPM and thus 
torque vs. RPM.  HP=Torque*RPM/5150 (roughly).

Other thoughts, I don't know how automatics would react/work with this 
setup.  Don't spin your tires when you punch it (although the numbers 
would look GREAT!).  I don't know how much tires "grow" during highway 
speeds.  If you make any body changes, drag. coef could be looked at 
also.  Remember, the units above are in SI units not the good 'ol 
English units.  And most of all, don't get a ticket :).

Any comments/suggestions/laughter out there????

-- 

David /\/elson
D-Nelson@taiu.edu

	Disclaimer: The above thoughts/feelings do not necessarily represent 
		those of my employer nor my other personalities.

	******  Two wrongs don't make a right, but three do!  ******

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug 15 13:55:55 1995
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From: "Robert Gallant"  <gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: In-Car Dynomometers
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On the thread of In-Car Dyno's:

Has anyone heard of one called a G-WIZ,  It sounds like the Vericom.

cut from the corvette list:

>In the latest edition of Mid-America's Limited Edition newsletter they
>have a new item called the G-Wiz that, quoting from the ad,
>"has 5 vital measurements in a device smaller than a pack of smokes"
>"With a precision accelerometer and RISC processor records your lateral
>G-force, best 1/4 mile, 0-60 times, braking power, and HP rating"
>This is item# T17005 and sells for $99.95.

The units are not going be available until october.
Mid America's phone number 1-800-500-8388.

Anyone know who the manufacturer of the G-WIZ is.

Later


Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil


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Subject: Re: Sensor Specifications
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I've got pretty specific numbers on the sensors GM used in their
speed-density TBI systems.  I'll include them in the data which I'm putting
together in my "EFI from an AT plug-in bus board" files.

                                        - Al -


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Aug 16 02:03:41 1995
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Date: Tue, 15 Aug 1995 09:42:08 +0800
From: Danny Wallace <WALLAD@devetwa.edu.au>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject:  Build or Buy?
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Hi all,
Please excuse if this has been discussed - just point me to the
archives.
I'm in the early stages of my EFI project and am trying to decide
whether to start completely from scratch with cct design and
board layout OR buy a commercial microController card - probably
using a 8051.
Does anybody have any suggestions or warnings about trying to
build from scratch.  Is it a waste of time?  I've never layed out
a micro processor/controller board so am not sure if the layout
will be so critical that timings etc will be a nightmare?  If
anybody has done their own PC board - what method did you use -
photographic, just provide the layout to a commercial firm (this
seems expensive for prototypes or one offs).  Any thoughts most
appreciated..
Danny
Perth, Western Australia
wallad@devetwa.edu.au


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Aug 16 04:50:07 1995
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From: robert dingli <r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Message-Id: <199508160447.OAA17358@mullian.ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Subject: spark ignition engines short course WWW (fwd)
To: DIY_EFI (DIY_EFI )
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 1995 14:47:24 +1000 (EST)
Cc: ndg@mame.mu.oz.au
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 For those interested in combustion and emissions of spark ignition engines:


 The Advanced Engineering Centre for Manufacturing in conjunction with the 
 Department of Mechanical and Manufacturing Engineering, University of 
 Melbourne and the Department of Fuel and Energy, University of Leeds are
 presenting a 3-day professional development short course on SPARK IGNITION
 ENGINE EMISSIONS (18-20 September).  For full details and registration
 information see the brochure at the URL:
 
 	http://sungear.mame.mu.oz.au/~ndg/95siee.html
 
Robert
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
             Robert Dingli           r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Power and Control Systems                 Thermodynamics Research Lab
Electrical Engineering                    Mechanical Engineering
   (+613) 9344 7966                          (+613) 9344 6728
  University of Melbourne, Parkville, 3052, Victoria, AUSTRALIA
----------------------------------------------------------------------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Aug 16 05:22:23 1995
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Subject: Re: Build or Buy?
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 1995 17:07:59 +1200 (NZST)
In-Reply-To: <s031c12f.067@wpsmtp.devetwa.edu.au> from "Danny Wallace" at Aug 15, 95 09:42:08 am
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It really depends on where you get your most satisfaction. If you get
more "I built that" feelings from going through the schematic capture ->
PCB -> smoke test, then you should persue it. That's my opinion, anyway.
After all, it's supposed to be a hobby.
If you are more interested in getting something going or writing
software then you can compare the time to design your own board with the
time that the car still isn't on the road.

If you are a bit reluctant about the hardware side, I would try to get
on the EFI332 bandwagon if it's not too late. That way you get a PCB
already made and you only have to solder bits on. You also have other
people at a similar stage in development with varying areas of expertise
all on a mailing list.

If you decide to do your own board, you are pretty safe with something
around the speed of the 8051 but if you intend going to something
faster, a guiding hand can be very helpful if it's newto you.
A rough guide for proto PCB's is about NZ$200 (these days about the same
in AU$ :-) for an A4 glass board with plated holes plus another $50 or
so for plotting. That's without solder mask or silkscreen, BTW.

Steve.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Aug 16 09:13:03 1995
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From: "n.mulvana" <N.Mulvana@electronic-engineering.hull.ac.uk>
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Subject: Re: Build or Buy?
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On Tue, 15 Aug 1995, Danny Wallace wrote:

> Hi all,
> Please excuse if this has been discussed - just point me to the
> archives.
> I'm in the early stages of my EFI project and am trying to decide
> whether to start completely from scratch with cct design and
> board layout OR buy a commercial microController card - probably
> using a 8051.
Hi,
I have been involved in a EFI related project using the 8051 family of 
microcontrollers which I started from scratch so I thought I would just put 
my two pennyworth in.
my project was actually a fuel computer but some points are relevant!
It all depends on how 'deep' you are prepared to go with the project as 
to whether you buy commercial units or not, there is agreat sense of 
achievement to be had in designing from the ground upwards, but if most 
of your experience is in software programming with little hardware design 
you will probably be better buying a commercial unit.
 > Does anybody have any suggestions or warnings about 
trying to
> build from scratch.  Is it a waste of time?  I've never layed out
> a micro processor/controller board so am not sure if the layout
> will be so critical that timings etc will be a nightmare?  If
in my opinion it is not a waste of time but if you have not done it 
before,it is quite task to produce a board for a large project, you could 
cut quite a lot of the hard work out by using a chip with built-in A to D
such as the philips 80C552 or the one I used was the siemens 80C537,
the layout should not be too critical - try to keep the crystal and 
associated capacitors close to the microcontroller and use plenty of 
decoupling on addressing chips etc.,
 > anybody has done their own PC board - 
what method did you 
use - > photographic, just provide the layout to a commercial firm (this
> seems expensive for prototypes or one offs).  Any thoughts most
> appreciated..
I made my own PC board using a CAD package and some photgraphic 
equipment but I am in the
fortunate position that we make PCB's at work - the only thing I can 
suggest is to talk to local schools/colleges/universitys and ask if the 
have the equipment to produce a one-off PCB (for a small fee that is)
as you are correct in stating a commercial firm would be very expensive 
for a one off.
hope this helps in some way if you need any more info regarding the above 
points feel free to email me. 


> Danny
> Perth, Western Australia
> wallad@devetwa.edu.au
> 
> 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 17 00:18:13 1995
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Date: Wed, 16 Aug 1995 18:15:22 -0600 (MDT)
From: Matthew Beaubien <mbeaubie@gpu.srv.ualberta.ca>
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To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Rich/lean indicator.
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I remember someone saying a little while ago that he had built a simple 
circuit which would indicate a rich/lean condition depending on the 
voltage output of the O2 sensor. Were the plans ever disclosed? 

Thanks.


Matt.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 17 02:11:35 1995
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You mention EFI332 hardware for fuel injection.  Where can I find more
information on this, and where can it be bought?  (Sorry, I'm quite a novice
at this).

-Bonn

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 17 02:41:53 1995
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From: gt9803a@prism.gatech.edu (Ennis Bragg)
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Subject: Let's Talk ALGORITHMS
To: DIY_EFI (EFI List)
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 1995 22:39:35 -0400 (EDT)
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Ok. This info is from Ronald Jurgen's "Automotive Electronics Handbook"
This book is published by McGraw-Hill.ISBN 0-07-033189-8
It is a compilation from various sources.  Chapter 4 is on flow sensors
and was written by Robert E. Bicking of Honeywell, Micro Switch Division.

This is the equation Bicking gives for calculating Mass Flow Rate using
speed-density.

Known		V   = Per-cylinder Nominal Displacement
Known		Ra  = Gas Constant of Air
Measured	RPM = Engine Speed
Measured	Ta  = Intake Air Temperature
Measured	P   = Intake Manifold Pressure
		n   = Volumetric Effieciency
Calculated	Ma  = Mass Flow Rate


	Ma = (RPM)*V*n*P
	      ---------
	      (Ra)*(Ta)

Here are questions I have.

1)  What is meant by the Gas Constant of Air?

2)  How does one determine volumetric efficiency?

3)  Once this equation is worked out, you have a good
    starting point to derive a base pulse width, Right?
    Now how do you factor in things like Throttle
    Position Sensor, and Coolant Temperature Sensor?

All help is greatly appreciated as always.

Thanks

Ennis

-- 
Ennis Bragg	
gt9803a@prism.gatech.edu


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 17 02:54:13 1995
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Subject: Re: Rich/lean indicator.
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 12:50:56 +1000 (EST)
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> 
> I remember someone saying a little while ago that he had built a simple 
> circuit which would indicate a rich/lean condition depending on the 
> voltage output of the O2 sensor. Were the plans ever disclosed? 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Matt.
> 
yeah.. were they??
Ivan



-- 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 17 04:33:45 1995
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Date: Wed, 16 Aug 1995 23:31:49 -0500
From: Mike Klopfer <klopfer@eagle.natinst.com>
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To: diy_efi
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>This is the equation Bicking gives for calculating Mass Flow Rate using
>speed-density.
>
>Known		V   = Per-cylinder Nominal Displacement
>Known		Ra  = Gas Constant of Air
>Measured	RPM = Engine Speed
>Measured	Ta  = Intake Air Temperature
>Measured	P   = Intake Manifold Pressure
>		n   = Volumetric Effieciency
>Calculated	Ma  = Mass Flow Rate
>
>
>	Ma = (RPM)*V*n*P
>	      ---------
>	      (Ra)*(Ta)
>
>Here are questions I have.
>
>1)  What is meant by the Gas Constant of Air?
>
>2)  How does one determine volumetric efficiency?
>
>3)  Once this equation is worked out, you have a good
>    starting point to derive a base pulse width, Right?
>    Now how do you factor in things like Throttle
>    Position Sensor, and Coolant Temperature Sensor?
>


I believe that Ra is most likely the ideal gas constant. A couple of papers
SAE 93085? "Transient A/F Ratio Errors in Conventional SI Engine Control",
SAE 900616 "Mean Value Modelling of Spark Ignition Engines " give a good
description including mathematical equations for the mass flow as a function of
throttle position, manifold pressure and rpm. In these equations volumetric
efficiency is a quadratic function of rpm and a linear function of P. In a
earlier post I tried to describe my best guess on how one might be able to
estimate the various constants in these equations for a given engine. I don't
know how practical or even understandable it is but if you'd like I could find
a copy pretty easy.

mike
also

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 17 04:53:29 1995
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Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 00:50:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Rich/lean indicator.
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> > I remember someone saying a little while ago that he had built a simple 
> > circuit which would indicate a rich/lean condition depending on the 
> > voltage output of the O2 sensor. Were the plans ever disclosed? 

> yeah.. were they??

    That would be me.  8^)  I'll try and get them out soon, but been to 
busy with work to write up something.   I don't have any software to lay 
out a circuit with, can someone throw it in so it could be put on the web 
page?  It's only 1 chip and 10 led's...

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--  
            "Hard Acceleration Saves Costly Aggravation"

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From: Rod Barman <rodb@cs.ubc.ca>
To: DIY_EFI
In-Reply-To: <950816220857_56217177@aol.com>
Message-ID: <"3196*rodb@cs.ubc.ca"@MHS>
Subject: Re: Build or Buy?
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The EFI332 web page is 
"http://www.cim.swin.edu.au/wwwhome/aden/efi332/efi332.html".

There is also a mailing list you can get on by sending a message to
"Majordomo@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu" with the following command in
the body of the message "subscribe efi332."

We are in the midst of developing the processor board and software 
development system. 

--rod.

--
Rod Barman, IRIS ISDE-6 @ Laboratory for Computational Intelligence
University of British Columbia
rodb@cs.ubc.ca


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 17 05:20:26 1995
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Date: Wed, 16 Aug 1995 23:08:15 -700 (MDT)
From: Jim Conforti <jec@us.dynix.com>
Subject: Re: Let's Talk ALGORITHMS
To: Ennis Bragg <gt9803a@prism.gatech.edu>
Cc: EFI List <DIY_EFI>
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On Wed, 16 Aug 1995, Ennis Bragg wrote:

> 1)  What is meant by the Gas Constant of Air?

  R == the universal gas constant (tweaked for the mixed gas air)

  see any decent physics/chem bible ...

> 2)  How does one determine volumetric efficiency?

  Experimentally, generally Ve = f(MAP,rpm)

  It is then supposedly mappable to an EQUATION ... 

  i.e. no lookup table needed, all fits nicely in the eqn ...

  VE = K1(rpm)^2 + K2(rpm) + K3 +K4(MAP)

  As someone (sorry, forgot whom .. maybe mike?) pointed out earlier

> 3)  Once this equation is worked out, you have a good
>     starting point to derive a base pulse width, Right?
>     Now how do you factor in things like Throttle
>     Position Sensor, and Coolant Temperature Sensor?

  Once you know Mass Air Flow .. or Q ...

  (going to BOSCH mode ;)

  Load (Tl) = Q/(Ki*rpm)

  Where Load is the BASE FUEL INJECTOR PULSE WIDTH for stoich in ms.

  (This is the almighty secret of BOSCH Motronic :)

  and Ki is computed from the flow rate of injectors to make the injection
  quantity per 2 revs (per cycle) perfectly stoich. in a perfect world 

  From there ...

  Ti = (Tl * magic factors) + BVolt correction

  The REAL injection time is based on ideal multiplied by the various
  enriching and enleaning factors (like accel, decel, eng temp, etc)
  and then lastly we add the Batt. Volt. correction for slower injection
  opening at lower voltages ..

  Jim Conforti



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 17 13:10:25 1995
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From: dmorrill%spf.dnet@gpo.nsc.com (DAVE MORRILL HPL DESIGN ENG 207-775-8574)
To: "DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"%GPO.dnet@gpo.nsc.com
Cc: DMORRILL@gpo.nsc.com
Subject: O2 sensor led meter
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A bunch of people have expressed interest in a simple O2 meter, the chip you
need is National Semiconductor's LM3914 (you can get this from Digikey and I
think Radio Shack), 10 led's or one of the LED arrays that you can also get
from the Shack or Digikey, and a couple of resistors.  You can cascade two of 
them if you want more display range.  

Check National's Linear Application Specific IC's databook.  I would be willing
to scan in the schematic and give some tips on how to hook this up, wld
poscript format be best?  Maybe post it on diy_efi... It will take me a couple
of days to get this done. 

Someone needs to give me the typical O2 sensor ranges, I think it is 
 from 0v to 1 with 0.5 being stoic?  It's easy to set the display range, the 
datasheet goes into much detail on how to do this.

Best,
	Dave.
    

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 17 13:27:55 1995
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Subject: Re: Let's Talk ALGORITHMS 
In-Reply-To: Your message of "Wed, 16 Aug 95 22:39:35 EDT."
             <199508170239.WAA18674@acmex.gatech.edu> 
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> This is the equation Bicking gives for calculating Mass Flow Rate using
> speed-density.
> 
> Known		V   = Per-cylinder Nominal Displacement
> Known		Ra  = Gas Constant of Air
> Measured	RPM = Engine Speed
> Measured	Ta  = Intake Air Temperature
> Measured	P   = Intake Manifold Pressure
> 		n   = Volumetric Effieciency
> Calculated	Ma  = Mass Flow Rate
> 
> 
> 	Ma = (RPM)*V*n*P
> 	      ---------
> 	      (Ra)*(Ta)
> 

Two comments:

a) There's a "2" missing in this equation if it's for a four stroke
   engine.  There are 2 revolutions per cycle (i.e. 2 revs per V 
   displacement).  Beware of units trouble.

b) This will give the flow rate per cylinder (as opposed to total
   engine flow).

> Here are questions I have.
> 
> 1)  What is meant by the Gas Constant of Air?

Just thought I'd toss in the numbers I have at my desk.
These are from Heywood's Internal Combustion Engine Fundamentals.

 _
 R = universal gas constant = 8.3143 J/(mole K)


 Ra = gas constant for air

      _
    = R/M  (where M = molecular mass of air)


       8.3143 J    mole
    = ---------------------- = 0.287 J/(kg K)
       mole K     28.962 kg



---
Anthony Tsakiris

The opinions expressed are my own and not necessarily those of my employer.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 17 14:23:41 1995
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Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 10:09:41 -0400
From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
Message-Id: <9508171409.AA06416@ivan.gallium.com>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re:  algorithms
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> In these equations volumetric
> efficiency is a quadratic function of rpm and a linear function of P. In a
> earlier post I tried to describe my best guess on how one might be able to
> estimate the various constants in these equations for a given engine.

I have the Engine Analyzer software and one of the outputs it produces is
volumetric efficiency. My approach would be to let EA model my engine and let
it compute a good starting point for VE.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 17 15:21:16 1995
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From: fridman@cpsc.ucalgary.ca (Robert Fridman)
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To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re:  O2 sensor led meter
Cc: DMORRILL@gpo.nsc.com
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> A bunch of people have expressed interest in a simple O2 meter, the chip you
> need is National Semiconductor's LM3914 (you can get this from Digikey and I
> think Radio Shack), 10 led's or one of the LED arrays that you can also get
> from the Shack or Digikey, and a couple of resistors.  You can cascade two of 
> them if you want more display range.  
> 
> Check National's Linear Application Specific IC's databook.  I would be willing
> to scan in the schematic and give some tips on how to hook this up, wld
> poscript format be best?  Maybe post it on diy_efi... It will take me a couple
> of days to get this done. 

Send me the postscript schematic and I'll add it to the diy_efi www pages.
I'll also convert it to a GIF so people can see the pic incase their www
browsers can't support PostScript.

If anyone else has any projects they wish to share with the list, please
send them to me as well.  


	RF.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
83 R100			DoD 749			Robert Fridman
71 Super Beetle	(FOR SALE)			fridman@cpsc.ucalgary.ca
84 320i

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 17 18:33:15 1995
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Message-id: <9207783@cupid.Dartmouth.EDU>
Date: 17 Aug 95 14:26:00 EDT
From: Jeffrey.Giberstein@Dartmouth.EDU (Jeffrey Giberstein)
Subject: Re:  algorithms
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Where can I find out more about this EA software?  I take it it's not public
domain stuff...


Thanks,

Jeff
Jefe@Dartmouth.edu

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 17 19:00:02 1995
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To: DIY_EFI
From: spm4@cornell.edu (Sean Magnuson)
Subject: Re:  O2 sensor led meter-K&N ref.
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        You hit the jackpot with that one Robert!  K&N has marketed  an
air/fuel ratio monitor for several years that uses that very chip.  I
actually purchased one a couple of years ago for my 1986 FJ1200 motorcycle
@ almost $200, decided to take it apart, and found that they tried to
scrape the IC number off the chip.  Using a simple dissecting microscope
and some vegetable oil to clarify the number, I was able to identify the
chip as good ol' LM 3914.  Needless to say I was ticked-off at the fact
that I was able to reproduce the exact circuit for less than $6, including
all electronics except the 02 sensor (add an extra $30 for a single lead
sensor).  I thought of marketing the same product myself, since they
apparently don't have any patent or license protection on the circuit ( I
checked ), but "pirate" versions have been popping-up all over the place,
so I decided against it.  If you want to make your own 10 segment led meter
or larger, all you need to do is follow the info. in the spec sheet from
Digikey and pot it in colored epoxy or polyurethane for an attractive,
weatherproof, completely functional unit.  Total price ~$40 (including 02
sensor).


Sean Magnuson

Cornell University

Motorcycle Performance Nut



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 17 20:10:42 1995
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To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Manifold pressure, fuel mixture, and water injection
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 95 13:00:32 PDT
From: Harmon Sommer <harmons@sequent.com>
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Older military aircraft engines were rated for power output using avgas
which was classed as having performance  numbers of, for example '100-130'
or '115-145'. I think this meant that using a baseline fuel, mixture,
and manifold pressure (100 octane-stoichiometric-atmospheric?) it would
develop baseline horsepower. Then the test fuel would be run with and
power output would be measured at various levels of boost and various
fuel/air mixtures to determine the power the engine could develop with lean and rich mixtures.

In his book 'Turbochargers', Hugh MacInnes quotes from Sir Harry Ricardo's
book 'The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine' of some work Ricardo did
with water injection. Following is an excerpt:

"In this case, running throughout at a speed of 2,500 RPM and with a
compression ration of 7:1, the engine was run on an economical mixture,i.e.
about 10% week, and supercharge applied to the first instance of
detonation, which occured when the BMEP had reached 168 pounds per square
inch. The mixture strength was then increased, step by step, and more
supercharge applied until the same density of detonation was recorded; this
process was continued until was reached at which no further enrichment was
effective. In fact, after 60% excess fuel, not only did further enrichment
have no effect but there was even some indication that it increased the
tendency to detonate.

A finely pulverized water spray was then delivered into the induction pipe
which served to suppress detonation, in part by the intercooling it
provided, and in part by the influence of steam as an anti-detonant, and so
allow further supercharging. This was continued progressively, admitting
just sufficient water at each stage to ward off detonation until a BMEP of
290 pounds per square inch was reached, which was found to be the limit of
the dynamometer. At the same time, it was noted that, with the addition of
water, the influence of steam as an anti-knock allowed the fuel/air ratio
being much reduced.

>From this curve .... it will be seen that under these operating conditions
a limiting BMEP that could be reached with 87 octane petrol alone at an
economical mixture strength was 168 psi. By enriching the mixture to the
limit of usefulness, the BMEP could be stepped up to 237 psi. By the
introduction of water, it could be further stepped up 290, and probably
more; at the same time teh fuel/air ration could be reduced once again; in
fact with water injection, no appreciable advantage was found from the use
of an overrich fuel/air mixture. It will be noted that the total specific
consumption of liquid, i.e. fuel plus water, is not so very much greater
than when running on a very rich mixture of fuel alone."

Has anyone done any research/published on this topic recently?

Thx, Harmon


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 17 20:34:16 1995
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To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re:  O2 sensor led meter-K&N ref.
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i have a 10 segment LED O2 meter that i purchased a couple of years ago
for about $30 (not including O2 sensor).  i can't remember the manufacturer,
but i picked it up from JC Whitney on a tip from a fellow racer.  It is
packaged in a 2-1/8" round gauge, which i stuffed right into my dash.

-neville


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 17 21:05:17 1995
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Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 16:48:52 -0400
From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
Message-Id: <9508172048.AA06945@ivan.gallium.com>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re:  algorithms
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Engine Analyzer is a "software dyno" and is available from Summit Racing.
You enter all the parameters for your engine (bore, stroke, intake valve
size, cam advance, etc.) and it calculates the performance of the engine.
By changing some parameters you can see what would have if you made a
change to the engine. I am fairly impressed with Engine Analyzer (about $90),
but if you want to go whole hog there is a Pro version for about $450.

BTW: Stay away from "Desktop Dyno". I have both and DD is garbage. It is
very simplistic, allows only a few parameters, and generally produces very
suspisious results.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 17 21:06:08 1995
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Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 05:00:25 +0800
From: Paul Repacholi <prep@yarrow.wt.com.au>
Message-Id: <199508172100.FAA02855@yarrow.wt.com.au>
To: DIY_EFI
In-reply-to: <199508172000.NAA01084@sequent.sequent.com> (message from Harmon Sommer on Thu, 17 Aug 95 13:00:32 PDT)
Subject: Re: Manifold pressure, fuel mixture, and water injection
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Re PN and avgas. Numbers < 100 are octane ratings. > 100 are
'performance numbers'. The first is lean, the second rich. PN
is the power as a % over 100 octane fuel. So a 150 PN fuel will
give a 50% increase over 100 octane fuel.

-- 
~Paul
prep@yarrow.wt.com.au                                  +61 (09) 257-1001
prep@yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au ( old )                      1 Crescent Rd,
                                                       Kalamunda,
                                                       West Aust    6076


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 17 21:34:52 1995
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From: Frank Deutschmann <fhd@interport.net>
Message-Id: <199508172124.RAA23402@interport.net>
Subject: Re: Manifold pressure, fuel mixture, and water injection
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 17:24:00 -0400 (EDT)
In-Reply-To: <199508172000.NAA01084@sequent.sequent.com> from "Harmon Sommer" at Aug 17, 95 01:00:32 pm
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Harmon Sommer sez:
> Has anyone done any research/published on this topic [water injection] 
> recently?

I read a few years ago about adding water directly to fuel by using an
emulsifying agent (fancy term for ordinary liquid soap), and getting
similar improvemnt -- the mechanism would be similar.

But I have not seen more on this recently.

-frank
-- 
fhd@interport.net | Testing can show the presence of bugs, but not their
  1 212 559 5534  | absence.
  1 917 992 2248  | 		-- Dijkstra
  1 718 746 7061  | 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 17 22:11:00 1995
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Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 18:03:04 -0400
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To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Build or Buy?
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In a message dated 95-08-15 22:41:23 EDT, you write:

>I'm in the early stages of my EFI project and am trying to decide
>whether to start completely from scratch with cct design and
>board layout OR buy a commercial microController card - probably
>using a 8051.
>Does anybody have any suggestions or warnings about trying to
>build from scratch.  Is it a waste of time?...

Danny,
    Having recently worked with both the build and buy alternatives, it
really depends on how many you intend to make.  If it's just a single unit -
or even a few - then it is far easier (and cheaper in the long run) to buy a
microcontroller unit and program it.  Your choice of the 8051 as the CPU is a
good one.  Blue Earth Research (507) 387-4001 makes a number of excellent and
reasonably priced units - they send out free catalogs.  I've used their
Micro-440e very successfully.

As far as making your own PC boards goes, if you don't have access to a
numerically controlled (NC) drilling machine, it's a lot of tedious work.
 Even if you do, the layoutitself will take a professional dozens of hours
with a good CAD package.  Then you have to do the etching itself...then, the
debugging and hope that the original board is still usable...  Anyway, you
get the idea.  Good luck.


Al Lipper
alipper@aol.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 17 22:25:37 1995
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Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 15:19:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" <BZUBLIN@PO2.GI.COM>
Subject: Re:  O2 sensor led meter-K&N ref.
To: "diy_efi (postings)" <DIY_EFI>
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It's incredible how much the aftermarket suppliers can charge for simple 
electronics.  I made one of these devices (also using the LM3914) for a 
friend after I saw similar products in catalogs.  It took me about a day.

So why hasn't someone come out with an inexpensive (around $300) generic EFI 
computer?  The price for existing aftermarket EFI computers is around $1000. 
 What's the parts cost for the EFI332?  Maybe someone could take it to 
market when all of the bugs are worked out.  This would be a great step for 
those of us looking for more performance.

Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com
 ----------
From: owner-diy_efi-outgoing
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re:  O2 sensor led meter-K&N ref.
Date: Thursday, August 17, 1995 2:53PM

        You hit the jackpot with that one Robert!  K&N has marketed  an
air/fuel ratio monitor for several years that uses that very chip.  I
actually purchased one a couple of years ago for my 1986 FJ1200 motorcycle
@ almost $200, decided to take it apart, and found that they tried to
scrape the IC number off the chip.  Using a simple dissecting microscope
and some vegetable oil to clarify the number, I was able to identify the
chip as good ol' LM 3914.  Needless to say I was ticked-off at the fact
that I was able to reproduce the exact circuit for less than $6, including
all electronics except the 02 sensor (add an extra $30 for a single lead
sensor).  I thought of marketing the same product myself, since they
apparently don't have any patent or license protection on the circuit ( I
checked ), but "pirate" versions have been popping-up all over the place,
so I decided against it.  If you want to make your own 10 segment led meter
or larger, all you need to do is follow the info. in the spec sheet from
Digikey and pot it in colored epoxy or polyurethane for an attractive,
weatherproof, completely functional unit.  Total price ~$40 (including 02
sensor).


Sean Magnuson

Cornell University

Motorcycle Performance Nut

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 17 22:34:01 1995
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To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Manifold pressure, fuel mixture, and water injection 
In-reply-to: Your message of "Thu, 17 Aug 95 17:24:00 PDT."
             <199508172124.RAA23402@interport.net> 
Date: Thu, 17 Aug 95 15:28:15 PDT
From: Harmon Sommer <harmons@sequent.com>
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Interesting. The first Napalm gels were soap and gasoline. Maybe there is a
peacetime (and PC) use for the stuff after all.

Thanks for your observation. Harmon


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug 18 02:56:36 1995
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From: LotusM50@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 22:48:12 -0400
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Bryan,

There is definately a market opportunity here.  Furthermore, the marketing
 of these units is fairly unsophisticated, so they could really be chewed up
fast.

-Bonn

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug 18 04:48:57 1995
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From: "Andrew Dennison" <ADEN@mechman.mm.swin.edu.au>
Organization:  Swinburne University
To: DIY_EFI
Date:          Fri, 18 Aug 1995 14:41:33 EST+10
Subject:       Re: Build or Buy?
Priority: normal
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> From:          LotusM50@aol.com
> Date:          Wed, 16 Aug 1995 22:08:58 -0400
> To:            DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:       Re: Build or Buy?
> Reply-to:      DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

> You mention EFI332 hardware for fuel injection.  Where can I find more
> information on this, and where can it be bought?  (Sorry, I'm quite a novice
> at this).
> 
> -Bonn
Info on the EFI332 project is at:

http://www.cim.swin.edu.au/wwwhome/aden/efi332/332_index.html

if you don't have WWW access join the EFI332 list the same way you 
joined DIY_EFI. You can order PCB's from AP circuits (Rod?)

Andrew

------------------------------------
Andrew Dennison - Research Associate
The CIM Centre                Address: CIM Centre
Melbourne, AUSTRALIA                   Swinburne University
Phone: +61 3 9214 8296                 PO Box 218
Fax:   +61 3 9819 4949                 Hawthorn Victoria 3122
WWW:   http://cim.mm.swin.edu.au/      Australia

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug 18 05:19:18 1995
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From: Steve Baldwin <steveb@kcbbs.gen.nz>
Message-Id: <199508180500.RAA21955@kcbbs.gen.nz>
Subject: Re: algorithms
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 17:00:48 +1200 (NZST)
In-Reply-To: <9508172048.AA06945@ivan.gallium.com> from "Michael F. Sargent" at Aug 17, 95 04:48:52 pm
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> 
> Engine Analyzer is a "software dyno" and is available from Summit Racing.
> You enter all the parameters for your engine (bore, stroke, intake valve
> size, cam advance, etc.) and it calculates the performance of the engine.
> By changing some parameters you can see what would have if you made a
> change to the engine. I am fairly impressed with Engine Analyzer (about $90),
> but if you want to go whole hog there is a Pro version for about $450.
> 

Does this software know anything about sidevalve engines ?
Does it have super / turbo charging included in the parameters you can
enter ?

Steve.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug 18 06:34:39 1995
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Date: Thu, 17 Aug 1995 23:27:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Kent <ukentm01@mcl.ucsb.edu>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: BMEP
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It seems pretty typical for "tuned" turbo motors generate well over 
300psi with good injection systems and intercoolers. Controlled Induction 
302, a software package I have estimates 305.7 psi BMEP for a 156ci/4 
with 8.5:1 cr and a 'mild' 18psi of boost.

Engine Analizer Pro looks really cool, not only does it generate VE 
tables and take into account things like turbine efficiency, rocker arm 
stiffness, valve weight, dew point, valve spring friction but it will 
also estimate a base ingnition timing map.

MK


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug 18 09:29:30 1995
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To: DIY_EFI
From: Georg.Siotis@analykem.lu.se (Georg Siotis)
Subject: Basic Stamp as EFI?
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>
Hello out there

Has anybody used BasicStamp I or II as an EFI??? Any hints would be 
appreciated..

Thanks in advance

Georg Siotis

E-Mail: Georg.Siotis@analykem.lu.se

Lund University
Chemical Center
Analytical Chemistry
Box 124
S-221 00 Lund Sweden
Tel    : +46-46-222 81 73
GSM    : +46-708-95 37 63
GSMFax : +46-708-95 95 91

                                              _
                                             ,-~ |
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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug 18 15:38:26 1995
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Subject: Re: O2 sensor led meter-K&N ref.
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 11:29:47 -0400 (EDT)
In-Reply-To: <3033C04E@gismtpgate.gi.com> from "Zublin, Bryan" at Aug 17, 95 03:19:00 pm
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Zublin, Bryan wrote
> 
> So why hasn't someone come out with an inexpensive (around $300) generic EFI 
> computer?  The price for existing aftermarket EFI computers is around $1000. 
>  What's the parts cost for the EFI332?  Maybe someone could take it to 
> market when all of the bugs are worked out.  This would be a great step for 
> those of us looking for more performance.

	Computers require software and algorithms. This is where the cost
comes from.  I don't know what the EFi32 list has decided about the
computer but the talk I saw was that it would be public domain and if
someone wanted they could make a kit and charge for the parts but
shouldn't look for a profit.  Please let me know what the correct status
is. 

Henry 

Henry Sommer | gt0035b@prism.gatech.edu | Georgia Institute of Technology
Year  88 | 90 | 91 | 92 | 93 | 94 | 95 | 96 | ME and MATE | FSAE since 92 
car # 66 | 23 | 23 | 42 | 42 | 99 | 99 | 5? | Maintainer of FSAE mailing list
place 11 |  2 |  6 | 23 |  3 |  6 | 11 | ?  | FSAE-request@list.gatech.edu


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug 18 15:39:39 1995
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From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
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> Does this software know anything about sidevalve engines ?

Doesn't ring a bell. What's a sidevalve engine? Flathead?
In any case, there are flow parameters that you can tweak for the head
and the manifolds, so you could probably make it work OK.

> Does it have super / turbo charging included in the parameters you can
> enter ?

Yes. It allows fairly good selection of forced induction as well as nitrous.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug 18 16:27:14 1995
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Subject: Re:  O2 sensor and EFI332 Status
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> It's incredible how much the aftermarket suppliers can charge for simple 
> electronics.  I made one of these devices (also using the LM3914) for a 
> friend after I saw similar products in catalogs.  It took me about a day.

You can get these O2 led meters through JC Whitney for almost nothing. 

> So why hasn't someone come out with an inexpensive (around $300) generic EFI 
> computer?  The price for existing aftermarket EFI computers is around $1000.

I think $1000 is reasonable when you look at the size of the market, the
amount of support/hand-holding necessary and what it would cost to develop
such a product commercially.

>  What's the parts cost for the EFI332?  Maybe someone could take it to 
> market when all of the bugs are worked out.  This would be a great step for 
> those of us looking for more performance.

Although I haven't added up all the bits, the parts count is in the
hundreds of dollars range.  EFI332 is a fairly powerful EFI computer
compared to what's out there in most cars and aftermarket systems.  We
chose a more expensive microcontroller (the MC68332) because we believed that
the benefits of programming in a high-level language (C) and the 
availability of free development tools (GNU) outweighed the 
disadvantage of increased cost.  There are many excellent 8051 variants
that would work well at the heart of a VERY low-cost EFI systems if
you wanted to program in assembler.

< ... hopping on to my miniature soapbox ... >

As for selling completed versions, we are aren't even close yet to having
something somebody could sell, yet.  The whole goal (at least in my mind) of
the EFI332 project is to make the design of a fairly sophisticated engine
control system with all the source code, schematics and development
environment available for free (note that this isn't necessarily the same
as public domain).   We did this because we felt that the current 
aftermarket systems weren't offering good value and were very closed
systems (ie. you'll never get their source code or run your own
code on their box).  That means it is both expensive and frustrating
to set up an efi system to try something new from some SAE paper or the
other.  Personally, I don't outright object to the idea
of somebody selling assembled EFI332 systems (not everyone wants
to solder) as long as it was done in a fashion that benefitted the
goals of the EFI332 project.

Comments EFI332ers?

--rod.

--
Rod Barman, IRIS ISDE-6 @ Laboratory for Computational Intelligence
University of British Columbia
rodb@cs.ubc.ca


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug 18 17:48:22 1995
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From: Bruce Bowling <bowling@cebaf.gov>
Subject: Re: algorithms
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 13:40:48 EDT
In-Reply-To: <199508180500.RAA21955@kcbbs.gen.nz>; from "Steve Baldwin" at Aug 18, 95 5:00 pm
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~ 
~ > 
~ > Engine Analyzer is a "software dyno" and is available from Summit Racing.
~ > You enter all the parameters for your engine (bore, stroke, intake valve
~ > size, cam advance, etc.) and it calculates the performance of the engine.
~ > By changing some parameters you can see what would have if you made a
~ > change to the engine. I am fairly impressed with Engine Analyzer (about $90),
~ > but if you want to go whole hog there is a Pro version for about $450.
~ > 

The above programs are empirically-based, which will yield ballpark
numbers and somewhat useful relative numbers for change evaluation.
But everyone I have talked with indicates that they do not check
accurately against dyno runs, to yield more real-world results require
air-flow simulations which take many hours to compute (on a Cray).  

- Bruce
--
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------
               Bruce A. Bowling
  Staff Scientist - Instrumentation and Controls
 The Continuous Electron Beam Accelerator Facility
    12000 Jefferson Ave - Newport News, VA 23602
                 (804) 249-7240
                bowling@cebaf.gov  
        http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug 18 18:32:46 1995
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Date: Fri, 18 Aug 1995 14:14:36 -0400
From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
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> But everyone I have talked with indicates that they do not check
> accurately against dyno runs, to yield more real-world results require
> air-flow simulations which take many hours to compute (on a Cray).  

I haven't done a dyno vs PC test yet, but they claim +/- 15% for Engine
Analyzer. EA does do an air-flow simulation, but I suspect that it is
somewhat simplified. I don't know what EA Pro claims for accuracy.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Aug 19 18:42:31 1995
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Date: 19 Aug 95 14:34:20 EDT
From: Jeffrey.Giberstein@Dartmouth.EDU (Jeffrey Giberstein)
Subject: MAP
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Assuming that there is equal airflow to all cylinders, how is the
output/usefulness of a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor used in a
speed-density system affected if the sensor is placed in an intake runner as
opposed to being in the plenum or near the throttle body(s)?  I'm just
concerned as to whether the airflow rate in a runner (being far greater than it
would be in a region of capacitance like in the plenum) would affect the
"static" pressure reading which is the useful number in estimating air density
in the manifold.  Please excuse the run-on sentences!

Jeff Giberstein
Dartmouth College
Formula SAE Engine Group   

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Aug 20 11:27:50 1995
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Date: Sat, 19 Aug 1995 20:02:00 +0000
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Manifold pressure, fuel mixture, and water injection
To: DIY_EFI
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-> of an overrich fuel/air mixture. It will be noted that the total
-> specific consumption of liquid, i.e. fuel plus water, is not so very
-> much greater than when running on a very rich mixture of fuel alone."
->
-> Has anyone done any research/published on this topic recently?

 Not that I'm aware of.  I've been fortunate enough to read through
Ricardo's book, which seems to have quite thoroughly covered the
subject.

 You need to keep in mind that it takes a *LOT* of water when you're
working with high boost.  John DeArmond, the former moderator of the
hotrod list, used to run over 30psi guage pressure on his turbocharged
Datsun six.  The car would empty a three gallon tank after a short
session of spirited driving.  He finally picked up some trash in the
water pickup which resulted in a spectacular engine meltdown, complete
with crankcase fire.  I had the opportunity to examine the remains and
it wasn't pretty.  John was talking about rigging a circuit with a water
flow sensor and boost sensor to cut the spark if the water flow was
interrupted under load.  20/20 hindsight, <sigh>.


 Water is very efficient for cooling the intake charge and as an
anti-detonant, but if you are in a cold area, intend to run long
distances under load (like a tow rig or motorhome), or run long races, a
conventional intercooler might be the best solution.  It won't freeze or
run empty, anyway.
                                 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Aug 20 11:27:50 1995
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From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: BMEP
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-> Engine Analizer Pro looks really cool, not only does it generate VE
-> tables and take into account things like turbine efficiency, rocker

 I have the base package.  It asks you if the parts are round or square,
what the valve size is, and then proceeds to plot VE tables.
Miraculous!  Think of all those fools who spent big bucks for SuperFlow
rigs!

 The package has no credibility at all, particularly when you start
feeding in data for something besides Ford and Chevy small blocks.  I
still believe it's table-driven internally.
                                                

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Aug 20 11:27:56 1995
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From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: O2 sensor led meter-K&N ref.
To: DIY_EFI
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-> > So why hasn't someone come out with an inexpensive (around $300)
-> generic EFI

> Computers require software and algorithms. This is where the cost
> comes from.

 I don't have to have umpteen quadzillion tweaks to pass EPA smog/CAFE
standards.  All I need to do is match a carb, or at least better than a
Hilborn mechanical fuel injection.  Reverse-engineering a ROM sucks, but
writing it all out in the first place is no big deal.

 Someday someone *will* do a $300 controller.  Meanwhile, I use a carb.
                                              

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Aug 21 01:51:13 1995
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To: DIY_EFI
From: spm4@cornell.edu (Sean Magnuson)
Subject: Re: led meter - Neville is right!.
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        Thanks Neville, I almost forgot about J.C.W.  I also purchased
several LED meters from J.C. whitney a couple of years ago and they employ
the same basic technology - an LED driver chip calibrated to the 02 sensor
output range, but two of the four units I purchased suffered from
cold-soldered pins on the board and required resoldering.  Not too much
concern in the quality-control department I guess.  These are an excellent
alternative to K&N's, but since the circuit is extremely simple to
construct and you get the satisfaction of customizing the final product,
you might as well spend your $30 bucks on the electronics and build one
yourself.


Sean Magnuson

Motorcycle Nut



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug 22 14:45:08 1995
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From: at@MULTILINE.COM.AU (Adam Tate)
Subject: WWW page
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I keep hearing about a DIY EFI web page. Is this operational yet? If so what
is the URL?

Adam Tate.
[at@multiline.com.au]
http://www.multiline.com.au/~atate/index.html


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug 22 16:04:12 1995
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Message-Id: <199508221555.JAA22842@aa.cpsc.ucalgary.ca>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re:  WWW page
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> 
> I keep hearing about a DIY EFI web page. Is this operational yet? If so what
> is the URL?
> 
> Adam Tate.

The DIY_EFI URL is:  http://www.cpsc.ucalgary.ca/~fridman/diy_efi

I put the schematic for the O2 LED meter from Dave Morrill in the subdirectory
projects/O2_LED.

If you are working on any diy_efi projects, I encourage you to send me a description
so I can put it on our web page for others to reference.  Chances are that other
people are working on something similar.

The web page still needs a lot of work, so if you have any other information/data
to add, I'll be grateful.


	RF.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
83 R100			DoD 749			Robert Fridman
71 Super Beetle	(FOR SALE)			fridman@cpsc.ucalgary.ca
84 320i

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Aug 23 06:48:35 1995
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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 1995 23:40:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Kent <ukentm01@mcl.ucsb.edu>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: formulas
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While this may not have to do directly with EFI, it has to do with the 
intake manifold that I will mount my EFI stuff on so...

I have been able to find a few equations dealing with the design of tuned 
intake manifolds. They seem quite generic and I was wondering if any of 
you know of other formulas that might be more appropriate. My application 
is a 2.6L 4, turbocharged and intercooled running pump gas. I will be 
fabricating the intake manifold but first need to finalize the design.

Helmholtz Tuned Induction system

	F = ( C / 2pi ) * ( A / LV )^.5

	F = resonant frequency
	C = sonic gas velocity
	A = cross sectional area of tuning pipe
	L = length of tuning pipe
	V = resonating volume

The SAE article I got this from made no mention of the units nor how F 
relates to RPM. Would it be directly proportional? (F->RPM)

Super Generic RPM based harmonic formulas

	2nd harmonic	132000 / RPM	= tuned length in inches
	3rd harmonic	97000  / RPM
	4th harmonic	74000  / RPM

For these it seems that the earlier the harmonic, the broader and more 
powerful the tuning effect is. Unfortunately a 22 inch runner is kind of 
hard to package.

Lastly, does anyone have the formula for calculating mechanical 
efficiency of an engine relating to compression ratio?

Thanx much in advance, Mike Kent
another poor engineer in training...



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Aug 23 14:49:38 1995
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From: choward@extro.ucc.su.OZ.AU (Chris Howard)
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<snip>

>Lastly, does anyone have the formula for calculating mechanical 
>efficiency of an engine relating to compression ratio?

I think you mean thermal efficiency not mechanical efficiency:

              1
n   =  1 - -------
 th          k-1
            r

where   n    = efficiency
         th

        k = specific heat ratio = 1.4 @ room temperature        
        r = compression ratio

This formula is for the ideal Otto cycle. Real efficiencies will be lower
than this.

Chris Howard
Mechanical Engineering
University of Sydney
Australia
Email:    choward@extro.ucc.su.OZ.AU
Web:     http://www.usyd.edu.au/~choward/welcome.htm


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Aug 23 19:37:39 1995
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Date: Wed, 23 Aug 95 12:17:49 -0700
From: fletcher@afrserver.arc.nasa.gov (Jay Fletcher)
Message-Id: <9508231917.AA25328@afrserver.arc.nasa.gov>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Diagnosing Quad 4 ECU problem
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I have an '89 Cutlass Calais with a Quad 4 which is having idle speed
control fits at the moment. I would like to learn how to dump the error
codes from the ECU so I can diagnose the problem. I have only worked
with Ford's EEC-IV in the past though, so I am clueless where to begin
with the Olds.

Does anyone on this list have documentation on the procedures and codes
that they could email to me? Otherwise, can you refer me to an Oldsmobile
mailing list or other net resource?

I'm not on this list any longer, so please reply directly. Thank you.

Jay


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Aug 23 20:45:26 1995
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From: Jens Knickmeyer <knick@ibr.cs.tu-bs.de>
Message-Id: <199508232037.WAA18932@kastor.ibr.cs.tu-bs.de>
Subject: EFI-chips
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Wed, 23 Aug 95 22:37:26 MET DST
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Reply-To: DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

Hi everybody!

I need some help to identify the following chips. I got two ECUs without
knowing from what cars they are. One is assembled by Siemens, the manufacturer
of the second one is unknown. If you have any information, please let me
know. I would like to know if I can do anything useful with them by using
them in the data monitoring system I am building for my car.

These are the chips, ordered by manufacturers. I write the complete
printing I find upon the chips.

Bosch:
- 44pin plcc package
  30155
  DC 2894
  BF830.6

- 44pin plcc package
  30154
  98 B 3394
  BF610.1

Siemens:
- 84pin plcc package
  B 58009

- 68pin plcc package
  B57828
  BD26401

Intel:
- 68pin plcc package
  B 57972
  L4222749
  BD 287829

Phillips:
- 44pin plcc package
  30279   2794
  134050B=2/5
  CC212  V2

- 20pin SOJ package:
  B57574
  94127OME
  Hmm9434 E

- 68pin plcc package
  30074
  162730
  CC151 V1

Thank you,

Jens.

------------------------------------
           Jens Knickmeyer
Technische Universitaet Braunschweig
         Mikroporzessorlabor
 38106 Braunschweig near Wolfsburg
       knick@ibr.cs.tu-bs.de
------------------------------------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Aug 23 23:00:50 1995
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From: neville@Verity.COM (Neville Newman)
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Date: Wed, 23 Aug 1995 15:53:10 -0700
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To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Diagnosing Quad 4 ECU problem
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i don't remember how to dump the codes, but i can tell you this.
The best way to diagnose these problems is to find a shop (likely
not a dealer, unless it's also a Hyundai or Mitsubishi dealer) 
that has a Simu-Tech machine.  Snap-On/Sun now sells them, so check
at known Sun shops.  It will hook directly up to your ECU (not the 
ALDL port) and do full static and dynamic diagnostic checks of all
the sensors, actuators, ECU, grounds, etc.

							-neville


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 24 00:25:03 1995
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From: neville@Verity.COM (Neville Newman)
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Date: Wed, 23 Aug 1995 17:14:10 -0700
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Sorry.  i meant to send a direct reply, not to the whole list.
However, immediately after sending the reply, i deleted the original
message.  If someone could forward the original to me, i would
very much appreciate it.  Thanks.

							-neville


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 24 04:01:44 1995
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From: eric_e@ix.netcom.com (Eric Elliott )
Subject: Manifold Selection
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Hello,

Which is preferable for a 355 CI 350 HP engine, the standard TPI system 
or the LT1 engine manifold system?
My cam degrees are 208 in, 221 exh @ 0.05 lift, lift max 0.51" in, 
0.474" exh. Dart2 Sportsman heads with 2" and 1.6" valves. With 
corvette heads the cam would peak torque at 3200 RPM & HP at 5850 RPM.

Is the corvette ECU needed to run the LT1 manifold? Would the corvette 
ECU "like" my heads and cam?

TIA

Eric Elliott

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 24 08:23:35 1995
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Date: Thu, 24 Aug 95 10:14:45 +0200
From: etxmst@sta.ericsson.se (Markus Strobl)
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To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Manifold Selection
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Reply-To: DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

> Hello,
> 
> Which is preferable for a 355 CI 350 HP engine, the standard TPI system 
> or the LT1 engine manifold system?
> My cam degrees are 208 in, 221 exh @ 0.05 lift, lift max 0.51" in, 
> 0.474" exh. Dart2 Sportsman heads with 2" and 1.6" valves. With 
> corvette heads the cam would peak torque at 3200 RPM & HP at 5850 RPM.
> 
> Is the corvette ECU needed to run the LT1 manifold? Would the corvette 
> ECU "like" my heads and cam?
> 
> TIA
> 
> Eric Elliott

Hi Eric,

The stock TPI is set up for low end torque, and the LT1 FI is set
up more for high rpm hp. Most TPI owners I've talked to report 
power peaks below 5000rpm, and 5500rpm shiftpoints. But the TPI
definetely makes more low end grunt (great for tire shredding!)

Both setups should work with your cam and heads, although the
2"/1.6" valves are a little big for a low rpm TPI setup. But
note that there is alot of aftermarket stuff for the TPI that
would open it up at high rpm. 

Markus

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 24 13:39:20 1995
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From: lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky)
Subject: Re: Manifold Selection
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 1995 08:30:21 -0500 (CDT)
In-Reply-To: <199508240228.TAA22167@ix4.ix.netcom.com> from "Eric Elliott" at Aug 23, 95 07:28:34 pm
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Eric Elliott writes:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Which is preferable for a 355 CI 350 HP engine, the standard TPI system 
> or the LT1 engine manifold system?
> My cam degrees are 208 in, 221 exh @ 0.05 lift, lift max 0.51" in, 
> 0.474" exh. Dart2 Sportsman heads with 2" and 1.6" valves. With 
> corvette heads the cam would peak torque at 3200 RPM & HP at 5850 RPM.
 
The LT1 manifold has no coolant crossover passage, no water inlet,
no provision for a distributor.  

> Is the corvette ECU needed to run the LT1 manifold? Would the corvette 
> ECU "like" my heads and cam?

Any system you run will require a custom calibration.


-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky                        lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
http://www.edge.net/~lusky/                 (615) 726-8700
-------------------------------------   ------------------------------
68 Camaro Convertible - 350 / TH350  \_/ 80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 24 15:15:29 1995
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To: diy_efi
Subject: National chips
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 95 08:03:57 PDT
From: Harmon Sommer <harmons@sequent.com>
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National's catalog has an automobile specific section. It includes the
LM1949 Injector Drive Controller and the LM9044 Lambda Sensor Interface
Amplifier (this is NOT the ubiquitous LM3914 Bar/Dot Display Driver).

Nat'l Customer Response Group is at 1-800-272-9959
N also claims http://www.ncs.com as internet location.


harmons@sequent.com (Harmon Sommer)


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 24 19:59:29 1995
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From: "Meier, Roger" <RMeier@P01.TX95.micro.honeywell.com>
To: "'DIY_EFI (SMTP)'" <DIY_EFI>
Subject: Quad 4 ECU post
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 95 14:15:00 CST
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Neville,
Here is your original reply to the quad 4 ECU question.
Sorry to post it to the list but I go through at least three firewalls to 
get to the net and return addresses are stripped no matter what I put in my 
Windows .ini file.

>i don't remember how to dump the codes, but i can tell you this.
>The best way to diagnose these problems is to find a shop (likely
>not a dealer, unless it's also a Hyundai or Mitsubishi dealer)
>that has a Simu-Tech machine.  Snap-On/Sun now sells them, so check
>at known Sun shops.  It will hook directly up to your ECU (not the
>ALDL port) and do full static and dynamic diagnostic checks of all
>the sensors, actuators, ECU, grounds, etc.
>
>                                                        -neville
Regards,
Roger M

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 24 22:53:56 1995
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From: Bruce Bowling <bowling@cebaf.gov>
Subject: Dynamometer program on WWW
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Thu, 24 Aug 1995 18:46:18 EDT
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With all of the talk lately of dynamometers, horsepower, etc, I
made an web application which determines engine horsepower from
vehicle MPH vs. time.  The URL is:

   http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling/dyno.html

The calculation is based on the equation (posted earlier) relating
HP to MPH, weight, and acceleration.  All one has to do is use a
stopwatch to obtain time events to reach certain MPH's.  The acceleration is
obtained by using a cubic spline interpolant on the MPH vs. time, using
the derivative of the spline (could have used a forward or backward
differencing scheme, but the spline provides a piecewise-continuous
function which can be differentiated analytically).  The nice thing
about this application is that the horsepower figures are corrected to
standard conditions, allowing accurate comparisons to other corrected
hp figures (such as magazines, real dynos, future runs, etc).  

This program is reachable from the master auto programs list:

  http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling/auto.html

- Bruce


--
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------
               Bruce A. Bowling
  Staff Scientist - Instrumentation and Controls
 The Continuous Electron Beam Accelerator Facility
    12000 Jefferson Ave - Newport News, VA 23602
                 (804) 249-7240
                bowling@cebaf.gov  
        http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug 25 00:14:16 1995
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From: Craig Pugsley <c.pugsley@trl.oz.au>
Message-Id: <199508250004.KAA10764@shiva.trl.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: O2 sensors / bargraphs.
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 10:04:19 +1000 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <199508241503.IAA17641@sequent.sequent.com> from "Harmon Sommer" at Aug 24, 95 08:03:57 am
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> National's catalog has an automobile specific section. It includes the
> LM1949 Injector Drive Controller and the LM9044 Lambda Sensor Interface
> Amplifier (this is NOT the ubiquitous LM3914 Bar/Dot Display Driver).

I seem to remember a design for a thirty LED O2 sensor display posted
somewhere (I think it was over on RX7 club-any guys from there
remember?).

Also, since these displays show the _VOLTAGE_, and the voltage is
dependant on the gas composition AND temperature, does this mean that
the temperature variation is going to make the reading too in-accurate (eg
more than 10% incorrect), or if used with a heated sensor will the
temperature be reasonably stable regardless of the engine operating
state?

Cheers,
Craig.
pugsley@trl.oz.au

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug 25 01:27:18 1995
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From: ptheriau@indirect.com (Chris)
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>Which is preferable for a 355 CI 350 HP engine, the standard TPI system 
>or the LT1 engine manifold system?
>My cam degrees are 208 in, 221 exh @ 0.05 lift, lift max 0.51" in, 
>0.474" exh. Dart2 Sportsman heads with 2" and 1.6" valves. With 
>corvette heads the cam would peak torque at 3200 RPM & HP at 5850 RPM.
>Eric Elliott

Why are you using such a short cam on dart2's?  The factory used 242/254 on
70 LT1 vettes.  I have Dart2's with 238/245 @.05 and .58 lift.  I use the
accel/lingenfelter superram manifold with the DFI computer.  The only
problem I have is that the tire tend to lose traction even when I am trying
to leave a stop slowly. ( below 2000 rpm ).

Chris


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug 25 02:12:40 1995
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Date: 24 Aug 95 22:05:44 EDT
From: Jeffrey.Giberstein@Dartmouth.EDU (Jeffrey Giberstein)
Subject: Ford 2.3L O2 sensor
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Does anybody have any data on the O2 sensor that Ford uses on its 2.3 liter
Rangers?  It's got four wires and I don't know what to do with any of them to
get a reading.

Thanks,

Jeff Giberstein
Dartmouth Collage
Formula SAE Engine Team

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug 25 05:15:00 1995
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Date: Thu, 24 Aug 1995 22:05:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Kent <ukentm01@mcl.ucsb.edu>
To: DIY_EFI
cc: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: O2 sensors / bargraphs.
In-Reply-To: <199508250004.KAA10764@shiva.trl.OZ.AU>
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Is there a way to possibly use an EGT reading to compensate for the temp?

> Also, since these displays show the _VOLTAGE_, and the voltage is
dependant on the gas composition AND temperature, does this mean that
the temperature variation is going to make the reading too in-accurate (eg
more than 10% incorrect)...

Mike Kent


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug 25 15:06:42 1995
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Harmon Sommer <harmons@sequent.com> Wrote:
| 
| National's catalog has an automobile specific section. It 
| includes the
| LM1949 Injector Drive Controller and the LM9044 Lambda Sensor 
| Interface
| Amplifier (this is NOT the ubiquitous LM3914 Bar/Dot Display 
| Driver).
| 
| Nat'l Customer Response Group is at 1-800-272-9959
| N also claims http://www.ncs.com as internet location.

There is something at the above URL, but it's not National.  Try:

http://www.nsc.com/


:-)

--steve

| 
| 
| harmons@sequent.com (Harmon Sommer)
| 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Aug 25 22:50:32 1995
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Date: Fri, 25 Aug 1995 15:40:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Joel A. Robinson" <robinj@src.usbm.gov>
Subject: Pressure transducers and Charge Temp
To: DIY_EFI
Cc: DIY_EFI, DIY_EFI
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I'm wondering if any of you know a source of some inexpensive low 
pressure range transducers for the purpose of finding low/high pressure 
zones on my car's exterior.  Engineers use small, high precision load-cells 
when doing material tests, etc but these are expensive and the pressure 
range is way beyond what I need.

I don't even need actual numbers, if there was a way to hook them to a 
multitestor and just measure relative voltages, that would be fine.

The reason I'm curious about the pressure is that I'm trying to find an 
appropriate place to draw fresh air for my airbox and also a place to 
vent heated air from the intercooler.

I would also like to get measurement of my charge temperature in various 
places:  at the airbox, just before the turbo, after the turbo, before 
the intercooler, after the intercooler and just before the throttle 
body.  I may decide to permanently mount a guage in one place but right 
now I would just like to monitor my progress when adding thermo 
barriers/shields, etc.


Thanks for your help!

Joel Robinson
robinj@src.usbm.gov



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Aug 26 18:13:27 1995
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To: diy_efi
Subject: pressure transducers
Date: Sat, 26 Aug 95 11:01:01 PDT
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>
>I'm wondering if any of you know a source of some inexpensive low 
>pressure range transducers for the purpose of finding low/high pressure 
>zones on my car's exterior.  Engineers use small, high precision load-cells 
...
>Joel Robinson
>robinj@src.usbm.gov

Motorola has  line of pressure transducers (MPX ...) with ranges of
0>1.5PSI on up. 

A good doc is their 'Pressure Sensor Device Data' manual (DL200/D). Gives
all sorts of specs and app notes (barometers, pressure readouts;  even
using the respected LM3914 and a led dot/bar chip  as pressure readout)

Semiconductor Products Sector (602) 244-6900 (Phoenix AZ)

Harmon

harmons@sequent.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Aug 26 23:38:21 1995
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From: Michael Kent <ukentm01@mcl.ucsb.edu>
To: DIY_EFI
cc: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Pressure transducers and Charge Temp
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Try using tufts of string taped onto the cars exterior. That way you can 
see the turbulence of high low pressure areas.

Mike Kent


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Aug 27 02:48:04 1995
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From: Grant Beattie <grantb@nait.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: Pressure transducers and Charge Temp
To: DIY_EFI
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On Sat, 26 Aug 1995, Michael Kent wrote:

> Try using tufts of string taped onto the cars exterior. That way you can 
> see the turbulence of high low pressure areas.

Tests are usually run using tufts of wool rather than string.

GB

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Aug 27 15:20:22 1995
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From: Dale Ulan <ulan@ee.ualberta.ca>
Subject: Re: O2 sensors / bargraphs.
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 95 9:06:34 MDT
In-Reply-To: <Pine.HPP.3.91.950824220237.9046A-100000@mcl.mcl.ucsb.edu>; from "Michael Kent" at Aug 24, 95 10:05 pm
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> 
> 
> Is there a way to possibly use an EGT reading to compensate for the temp?
> 
> > Also, since these displays show the _VOLTAGE_, and the voltage is
> dependant on the gas composition AND temperature, does this mean that
> the temperature variation is going to make the reading too in-accurate (eg
> more than 10% incorrect)...

Not only does the reading vary with temperature, but *also* with age...
believe it or not. Also, the manufacturer of the cell can affect the
output characteristics: the vertical line in the curve remains the same,
but the output voltages on either side vary. I've actually seen a case
where a GM sensor worked fine, but putting a Ford sensor on confused
the computer in a major way.

here's an article... it's good reading material:

SAE paper 920289, 'Operating Characteristics of Zirconia Galvanic
Cells (Lambda Sensors) in Automotive Closed-Loop Emission Control
Systems, by Bozek, Evans, Tyree, and Zerafa of the EPA.

-dale

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Aug 28 02:22:19 1995
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To: diy_efi
Subject: NACA
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 95 19:11:06 PDT
From: Harmon Sommer <harmons@sequent.com>
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CF Taylor has 'NACA' documents given as references in his books on internal
combustion engines. I have written to both NASA and the US Dept of Commerce
trying to get copies. No luck. Any suggestions?
(NACA=National Advisory Council for Aeronautics; think they became part of
FAA and NASA)

Thx,
harmons@sequent.com (Harmon Sommer)


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Subject: Re: NACA
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Sun, 27 Aug 1995 22:02:56 -0600 (CDT)
In-Reply-To: <199508280211.TAA00104@sequent.sequent.com> from "Harmon Sommer" at Aug 27, 95 07:11:06 pm
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Try a good research library.  Interlibrary loan should also be able to
get them for you.  NACA did some fabulous work on reciprocating engines
before the gas turbine was invented.
Jim

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Aug 28 04:04:35 1995
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From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
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Subject: Re:  NACA
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Try the Library of Congress. You can get to them via the Internet. I don't
have the addresses, but someone should know them. If not, I'll check it out
and post here.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Aug 28 05:25:02 1995
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From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: NACA
To: DIY_EFI
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On Sun, 27 Aug 1995, Harmon Sommer wrote:

> CF Taylor has 'NACA' documents given as references in his books on internal
> combustion engines. I have written to both NASA and the US Dept of Commerce
> trying to get copies. No luck. Any suggestions?
> 
These documents are available through NTIS in Virginia. Of course I dont 
have the address here,but can get it if necessary. I think fedworld.gov 
has a link to NTIS, too. Ask me if you need the address.

For a http link try:
www.larc.nasa.gov/naca/naca.html

--they have titles, but not the documents themselves.

For a good book, try "Development of Aircraft Engines" by Schlaifer which 
includes "Development of Aviation Fuels" by Heron. Old, out of print, but 
invaluable, IMO. Try a business library. Anybody with a copy to sell?

Jim Davies


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To: diy_efi
Subject: GM TPI manifold -- description
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 95 11:00:41 -0400
From: John S Gwynne <jsg>
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Greg Jestico sent this to me a while ago, and I thought others
may be interested. (reposted w/permission from Greg)

------- Forwarded Message 

From: pbjorn@sirius.UVic.CA
Subject: TPI manifolds

John,
remembering an article from Car Craft magazine a year or so ago, I can give you 
this Info.

If the manifold was originally from a Corvette,
The manifold, runners, plenum, throttle body etc. remain identical from 1985
to 1989. These have conventional bolt hole angles, and as such will bolt to
any earlier small block. the Corvette uses an external tube from the header
to the manifold to supply the EGR. 1990 to 1991 manifolds have a boss for 
mounting the Map sensor at the right rear of the Plenum. These manifolds 
still have conventional mounting bolt angles.

If the manifold is from Camaro/Firebird,
The manifold is the same from 1985 to 1987. These have conventional bolt angles.
The manifold has an internal passage from the head to supply the Egr. The 
remaining parts are the same as Vettes' , and it will bolt to any earlier
smallblock. In 1988 GM changed the angle of the center two bolts on each head
to a more vertical angle, and it remained that way until 1993.
I have heard that these holes can be elongated and spot faced to match up with
the earlier design, but have not seen how cleanly it can be done.
In 1990 the same boss for the Map sensor was added to the plenum as the Vettes.


The 1985-1988 TPI on all models used a cold start enrichment valve. The plenum
and runners have passages for this. After 1988, the valve was eliminated.

All this means that there are ;

3 possible manifold bases- internal Egr, external Egr, and angled center bolts.

2 possible runner tube pairs- With cold start passage or without.

3 possible plenums- early whith cold start passage, mid. without cold start 
                    passage and late with Map boss.

GM also made a revision to the Throttle cable attaching design on 1989 and later
TPI systems.



Greg Jestico
at
pbjorn@sirius.UVic.CA

------- End of Forwarded Message


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Aug 28 19:19:30 1995
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From: Bruce Bowling <bowling@cebaf.gov>
Subject: Pls. repost accelerometer
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 15:15:30 EDT
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About 1 month ago, there was a discussion about accelerometers, which
I missed most of the posts.  Could someone re-post the accelerometer
part which would be applicable in measuring automotive G forces?

Thanks - bruce
--
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------
               Bruce A. Bowling
  Staff Scientist - Instrumentation and Controls
 The Continuous Electron Beam Accelerator Facility
    12000 Jefferson Ave - Newport News, VA 23602
                 (804) 249-7240
                bowling@cebaf.gov  
        http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Aug 28 20:36:40 1995
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From: dcole@austin.ibm.com (Dixon Cole)
Message-Id: <9508282033.AA12458@foules.austin.ibm.com>
Subject: Cheap, small, simple injector.
To: DIY_EFI (efi)
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 15:33:23 -0500 (CDT)
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I'm looking for an injector small enough for single cylinder (600cc) motorcycle
use.  Preferrably easy-to-plumb (no weirdo fuel rail or special mounting boss) 
with low current draw.   Does anyone have specs on something of this nature?
Something available through auto-parts stores would be really nice! 8-)

>From the DIY-EFI WWW pages and Bruce's injector computer, I used:

300 cid ~= 600cc/cylinder
80% v.e.
8000 rpm
sequential injection.

Gives me a 33 lb/hr injector.  What bearing does fuel pressure have
on these figures?

Also, has anyone used the Motorola MPX-nnnn series of pressure transducers
for MAP duty?  I've been thinking that their 29psi differential unit would
suffice, but not sure about vibration, heat, etc.  I can make a SWAG based
on the sensor data, but experimental data would be nice.

info appreciated!
thanx,
Dixon

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dixon Cole - dcole@austin.ibm.com     IBM RISC/System 6000 Division, Austin, TX
(512) 838-8971, T.L. 678-8971         Level 3 Support
The views expressed herein are not necessarily those of IBM Corp.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Aug 28 21:26:35 1995
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From: Bruce Bowling <bowling@cebaf.gov>
Subject: Re: Cheap, small, simple injector.
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 17:24:03 EDT
In-Reply-To: <9508282033.AA12458@foules.austin.ibm.com>; from "Dixon Cole" at Aug 28, 95 3:33 pm
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~ Gives me a 33 lb/hr injector.  What bearing does fuel pressure have
~ on these figures?

The flow rate of an injector is based at some test pressure, usually
for OEM the fuel rail pressure (i.e. a Jag 4.2 engine fuel injector
flows 20 lbs/hr @ 39 PSI fuel rail).  To convert flows from one
fuel rail pressure to another, use:
   
   sqrt(new_pressure/old_pressure) * old_flow = new_flow

For the Jag example, to see the flow at 25 PSI fuel rail:
   
   sqrt(25 / 39) * 20 = 16

- Bruce

--
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------
               Bruce A. Bowling
  Staff Scientist - Instrumentation and Controls
 The Continuous Electron Beam Accelerator Facility
    12000 Jefferson Ave - Newport News, VA 23602
                 (804) 249-7240
                bowling@cebaf.gov  
        http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Aug 28 22:53:14 1995
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Date: Mon, 28 Aug 95 18:48:08 EST
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Pls. repost accelerometer
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> About 1 month ago, there was a discussion about accelerometers, which
> I missed most of the posts.  Could someone re-post the accelerometer
> part which would be applicable in measuring automotive G forces?
> 
> Thanks - bruce

The accelerometer of choice seems to be Analog Device's ADXL05 part.  Its
good for 5 g's.  Newark had them in stock a couple weeks back.  Cost is
around $30.

A preliminary part from AMP is about $30 also but can measure three axes
(x-, z-, and rotational about z-).

-tim



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug 29 00:37:32 1995
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To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Just guessing here, but ...
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 95 17:34:17 PDT
From: Harmon Sommer <harmons@sequent.com>
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My Guess: Electronic ignition timing is done by phase locking an oscillator
to a timing point on the crank. This enables the controller to determine
where the crank is at any  time (dependent upon the freq of the
oscillator)to what ever degree of rotation is desired. This information can
then be used to set spark advance for engine operating conditions.

Or have I guessed wrong.

harmons@sequent.com (Harmon Sommer)



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug 29 03:33:21 1995
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Date: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 21:22:12 -700 (MDT)
From: Jim Conforti <jec@us.dynix.com>
Subject: Re: Just guessing here, but ...
To: Harmon Sommer <harmons@sequent.com>
Cc: DIY_EFI
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   Well, not on BOSCH boxes, where timing is done by counting
   flywheel teeth after a ref. point ... and sometimes further
   controlled by a sub-tooth time period (on the 60-2 tooth wheels)

   Jim



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Aug 29 13:46:19 1995
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	(1.37.109.16/15.6) id AA297763709; Tue, 29 Aug 1995 07:41:49 -0600
From: Dale Ulan <ulan@ee.ualberta.ca>
Subject: Re: Just guessing here, but ...
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 95 7:41:49 MDT
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>    Well, not on BOSCH boxes, where timing is done by counting
>    flywheel teeth after a ref. point ... and sometimes further
>    controlled by a sub-tooth time period (on the 60-2 tooth wheels)

And on older GM boxes (with distributors), they just use the time
between TDC pulses, with a small non-linearity adjustment for timing
for the engine's speed variation from cylinder to cylinder. You can
do this with an output compare and input capture register on an HC11:

    TIC - last time -> cyl time
    TIC -> last time
    TIC + cyl time * (90 deg - ignition timing -
		      dwell time) / 90 degrees -> TOC
    TIC + cyl time * (90 deg - ignition timing) / 90 degrees -> nextTOC

That's just the math. The code is a bit more complicated, to compensate
for error conditions that happen frequently...

-Dale

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From: CICIORA STEVEN JOSEP <ciciora@spot.Colorado.EDU>
To: efi332
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  Well, Ed Lansinger beat me to it.  He wrote the article I wanted to 
(I'm not sure that I could have, anyway).  In the latest Circuit Cellar 
Ink, the first of a three part seriese on developing a 68hc16 based EFI 
system, used in a Formula SAE car.  He does a good job going over he 
calculated injector size, how he calculated the fuel map, etc.  He used a 
TIP120 transistor to drive a 12 ohm injector directly, with no diodes.  
Driven directly from a TTL bit.  
  I'm impressed with the article, and look foward to the rest of his 
series.  He is the first one I've seen that has actually built an EFI 
system and is willing to share it.
  Oh, ya.  It's for a 70 hp, 600cc high rpm motor-cycle engine.  He runs 
two banks of two spark plugs and injectors (simultaneous double fire, 
rather than sequential).

Circuit Cellar Ink: (800) 269-6301

Ed Lansinger: lansie@rpi.edu
"Ed Lansinger is a computer and systems engineer who worked on the 
Cadillac Northstar powertrain control software, cofounded an industrial 
software company, and does consulting.  He has returned to Rensselaer 
Polytechnic Institute for graduate studies and is forming a team there to 
build an electric race car."

-Steven Ciciora

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From: "Edward J. Lansinger" <lansie@rpi.edu>
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Date: Wed, 30 Aug 1995 12:01:42 -0400
In-Reply-To: CICIORA STEVEN JOSEP <ciciora@spot.colorado.edu>
        "Developing an Engine Control System Part 1 of 3" (Aug 30,  7:22am)
References: <Pine.SOL.3.91.950830071337.25808A-100000@spot.Colorado.EDU>
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Subject: Re: Developing an Engine Control System Part 1 of 3
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My thanks to Steven Ciciora for pointing out the article I wrote
for Circuit Cellar INK.  In deference to the fact that there are
others out there who have done similar work and who talk about it
here, I plug both the DIY_EFI and EFI332 lists in the last article.

I hope people enjoy reading the articles.  They were, of course,
edited to fit size and style requirements.  I tried to fit as much
detail in as I could but still feel as though I've left out half
of it.  I'd be happy to answer any questions that arise.

Ed Lansinger
lansie@rpi.edu
elansi01@mpg.gmpt.gmeds.com
Rensselaer Formula Lightning Project
Rensselaer Formula Car Project

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 31 03:17:53 1995
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From: eric_e@ix.netcom.com (Eric Elliott )
Subject: Dynamometer, affordable
To: DIY_EFI
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Hello,
The local aircraft rebuilder thinks a used aircraft propeller could be 
an excellent power waster. He said:
Perfectly good propellers, propeller shafts, crankshafts and other 
parts are discarded due to age, hours of use or minor cosmetic damages. 
Propellers can be fixed pitch (load a function of RPM and flow 
restriction) or variable pitch. Pitch controls can be electric, 
mechanical, hydraulic or combination of mech. input ring and internal 
hydraulics. Props range from 25 to 1500 HP at limits of 1500 to 3100 
RPM. The RPM limit is due to efficiency loss as tip velocity exceeds 
speed of sound. Beyond the speed of sound the prop might break or just 
be a power (dynamometer) waster. 
Clubs are like propellers, but intended for engine testing on ground. 
Clubs can be inexpensively made for custom purposes.
An engine case and out of hours crankshaft could supply pitch controls 
and mounting for a variable pitch prop.
A fixed pitch prop on a pallet size mount with a manual transmission, 
thrust bearing and prop guard/thrust diffuser could be shipped from 
user to user. Gear ratios could help match loads to needs. The diffuser 
could keep it from “leaving”. Headline: Leafblower From Hell deafens 2, 
cleans 3 yards!
A prop on a rear axle could be cheap and avoid the 3100 RPM limit via 
hypoid gear ratio. The differential could be locked for <$5, via 
addition of 2 spider gears. A thrust bearing might not be needed as 
ring gear axial thrust might exceed prop thrust.
Some calculation of (effect of) thrust to be generated would be in 
order. Also consider tendency of prop to "process" people.

Eric Elliott

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 31 14:51:14 1995
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From: steveb@newkla.kla.com (Steven Buchholz)
Message-Id: <9508311443.AA09581@newkla.kla.com>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Dynamometer, affordable
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Eric Elliott wrote: [excerpted]
> A prop on a rear axle could be cheap and avoid the 3100 RPM limit via 
> hypoid gear ratio. The differential could be locked for <$5, via 
> addition of 2 spider gears. A thrust bearing might not be needed as 
> ring gear axial thrust might exceed prop thrust.
> Some calculation of (effect of) thrust to be generated would be in 
> order. Also consider tendency of prop to "process" people.

Just a quick $0.02 ... if you chose the rear differential from an Audi
Quattro you would find that the diff locking mechanism was built in.
I don't know how many different reduction ratios are available in these
diffs.  

Steve Buchholz
s_buchho@kla.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 31 15:16:46 1995
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From: dcole@austin.ibm.com (Dixon Cole)
Message-Id: <9508311513.AA10430@foules.austin.ibm.com>
Subject: Next question: Fuel pumps....
To: DIY_EFI (efi)
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 10:13:08 -0500 (CDT)
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Well, I think I have the solution to my injector problem (Thanks Kent!).

So here's my next problem:

I need a small, low-current-draw, high pressure, low (relatively) volume fuel
pump/system.

Engine is a 600cc single cylinder motorcycle engine with 8000 max rpm.  Fuel
demands work out to about 33 lbs/hour.  Current plan is to use 2 19lb injectors
from a Mustang.

Most (all?) automotive systems circulate fuel to the regulator and back to
the tank.  This idea seems great for keeping the fuel cool and allowing
quick response to larger fuel demands (less inertia of fuel in the line to
overcome).  My problem is that I don't have a lot of current available for
the injection system and I'm trying to save a few mA here and there (engine
is on a Honda XR600R dirt bike).  I don't want to put too big of a pump
in the system and waste current pumping a lot of fuel through the system.
Are there any guidelines to follow for sizing fuel systems? 

Sorry to be such an information drain.  Maybe when I get my system running
I can return the favors.

Thanks for your help!
Dixon

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dixon Cole - dcole@austin.ibm.com     IBM RISC/System 6000 Division, Austin, TX
(512) 838-8971, T.L. 678-8971         Level 3 Support
Not speaking for IBM.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 31 16:16:30 1995
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From: c1ilep@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com (Lawrence E. Piekarski)
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Subject: Re: Next question: Fuel pumps....
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 11:14:28 -0500 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <9508311513.AA10430@foules.austin.ibm.com> from "Dixon Cole" at Aug 31, 95 10:13:08 am
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>I need a small, low-current-draw, high pressure, low (relatively) volume fuel
>pump/system.
>
>Engine is a 600cc single cylinder motorcycle engine with 8000 max rpm.  Fuel
>demands work out to about 33 lbs/hour.  Current plan is to use 2 19lb injectors
>from a Mustang.
>
>Most (all?) automotive systems circulate fuel to the regulator and back to
>the tank.  This idea seems great for keeping the fuel cool and allowing
>quick response to larger fuel demands (less inertia of fuel in the line to
>overcome).  My problem is that I don't have a lot of current available for
>the injection system and I'm trying to save a few mA here and there (engine
>is on a Honda XR600R dirt bike).  I don't want to put too big of a pump
>in the system and waste current pumping a lot of fuel through the system.
>Are there any guidelines to follow for sizing fuel systems? 

Well, I have two thoughts.

1) Any any system, there is a spectrum of users, you have you 600cc dirt
bike and I have a 527 c.i. V-8 tractor-pull motor. Still, I just went through
what you are asking about. I have twin 900 cfm carbs mounted high atop a 
tunnel ram with a Mallory fuel pump mounted below the frame rails right next
to the fuel tank. The fuel pump had a built in regulator, which I had 
adjusted to about 8 psi. Problem: I idled out on the track and tightened the
chain, dropped her in gear and dumped the throttle. Since there was about
3 feet of fuel line between the pump and the carb, here is what happened.
When I dumped the throttle, the fuel began pouring into the engine (and 
I do mean pouring). The fuel pressure at the carb dropped to near zero. 
It took on the order of 250ms for the zero pulse to make it back to the
fuel pump regulator, at which time the fuel bowls were running dry since there
was no fuel line pressure to fill them. At this point the regulator notices
the zero psi fuel pulse and drives fuel up the line virtually unregulated.
Now, there is so much fuel pressure that the float holds back what they can,
but fuel starts running out the top. 250ms the regulator notices the excess
pressure and stops pumping fuel, and they cycle starts again. What I noticed
is that when I dumped the throttle, the fuel pressure would drop to 0, spike to
15+ psi and so on in a damped sine wave of about 2Hz. After 5-10 seconds, the
regulator finally "got a clue" and we were running. Naturally, the engine 
didn't run good with the alternate leaning/flooding going on.

Solution: I placed the twin regulators right at the carb. This eliminated the
250ms time constants. While you won't use near the fuel I do, you also don't
have a fuel bowl reserve, so constant pressure is imperative. The reason
for the regulator at the fuel rail is not to cool the fuel (though it is a 
nice side effect) but to ensure that on idle -> WOT transitions, you don't
have a drop in pressure which would cause leaning. You could probably 
compensate for this in software, but it seems needlessly complicated.

2) I think that is would be easier (i.e. less current) to pump moving
fuel back to a tank than it would be to apply pressure to stationary
fuel. Electric motors generate back EMF, they draw the most current at
a locked rotor condition and the least at wide-open-no-load. I would think
your current draw would be less actually pumping fluid (higher rotor speed)
and applying pressure to a non-moving or slow-moving fluid (less rotor speed).

In my thinking, it is easier to push a car 125 feet down the road and then
push it back 25 feet, than to push it 100 feet with the brakes partially
applied.
-- 
(* Larry Piekarski, Lead Software Engineer *)
(*      Luxury Car HVAC Display Heads      *)
(*      c1ilep@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com     *)
(*      Delco Electronics, Kokomo, IN      *)

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 31 18:53:54 1995
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From: Bill Lewis <wrl@access.digex.net>
Message-Id: <199508311851.OAA29598@access1.digex.net>
Subject: Re: Dynamometer, affordable
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 14:51:02 -0400 (EDT)
In-Reply-To: <9508311443.AA09581@newkla.kla.com> from "Steven Buchholz" at Aug 31, 95 07:43:39 am
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> 
> Eric Elliott wrote: [excerpted]
> > A prop on a rear axle could be cheap and avoid the 3100 RPM limit via 
> > hypoid gear ratio. The differential could be locked for <$5, via 
> > addition of 2 spider gears. A thrust bearing might not be needed as 
> > ring gear axial thrust might exceed prop thrust.
> > Some calculation of (effect of) thrust to be generated would be in 
> > order. Also consider tendency of prop to "process" people.
> 
> Just a quick $0.02 ... if you chose the rear differential from an Audi
> Quattro you would find that the diff locking mechanism was built in.
> I don't know how many different reduction ratios are available in these
> diffs.  
> 
> Steve Buchholz
> s_buchho@kla.com
> 

I've considered building a light dyno using a VW Type I transaxle, connecting
a torque measuring device (like a torque wrench) to the output flange on
one side, and a water spray cooled disk brake on the other.  I'm afraid
my scheme has the spider gears in the differential constantly spinning
under load, and a quick look in the shop manual shows no ball or roller
bearings used in the stub output shafts.  I dropped the idea assuming the
simple bushings would burn up.  Having the transmission in a low gear would
keep the brake rotor speed within reason.

/Bill

-- 
Bill Lewis - wrl@access.digex.net

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 31 19:17:44 1995
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From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" <BZUBLIN@PO2.GI.COM>
Subject: RE: Developing an Engine Control System Part 1 of 3
To: "diy_efi (postings)" <DIY_EFI>
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The part 1 article is in the September issue.  I saw it in the bookstore 
last night.  BZ
 ----------
From: owner-diy_efi-outgoing
To: efi332
Cc: diy_efi
Subject: Developing an Engine Control System Part 1 of 3
Date: Wednesday, August 30, 1995 7:22AM

  Well, Ed Lansinger beat me to it.  He wrote the article I wanted to
(I'm not sure that I could have, anyway).  In the latest Circuit Cellar
Ink, the first of a three part seriese on developing a 68hc16 based EFI
system, used in a Formula SAE car.  He does a good job going over he
calculated injector size, how he calculated the fuel map, etc.  He used a
TIP120 transistor to drive a 12 ohm injector directly, with no diodes.
Driven directly from a TTL bit.
  I'm impressed with the article, and look foward to the rest of his
series.  He is the first one I've seen that has actually built an EFI
system and is willing to share it.
  Oh, ya.  It's for a 70 hp, 600cc high rpm motor-cycle engine.  He runs
two banks of two spark plugs and injectors (simultaneous double fire,
rather than sequential).

Circuit Cellar Ink: (800) 269-6301

Ed Lansinger: lansie@rpi.edu
"Ed Lansinger is a computer and systems engineer who worked on the
Cadillac Northstar powertrain control software, cofounded an industrial
software company, and does consulting.  He has returned to Rensselaer
Polytechnic Institute for graduate studies and is forming a team there to
build an electric race car."

 -Steven Ciciora

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 31 20:14:07 1995
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From: dkls7q6@is000895 (Parmer)
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To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Dynamometer, affordable
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> From: steveb@newkla.kla.com (Steven Buchholz)
> Eric Elliott wrote: [excerpted]
> > A prop on a rear axle could be cheap and avoid the 3100 RPM limit via 
> > hypoid gear ratio. The differential could be locked for <$5, via 
> > addition of 2 spider gears. A thrust bearing might not be needed as 
> > ring gear axial thrust might exceed prop thrust.
> > Some calculation of (effect of) thrust to be generated would be in 
> > order. Also consider tendency of prop to "process" people.
> 
> Just a quick $0.02 ... if you chose the rear differential from an Audi
> Quattro you would find that the diff locking mechanism was built in.
> I don't know how many different reduction ratios are available in these
> diffs.  

There are lots of limitation/problems with this type of setup, but
as long as you're brainstorming....

A 3:1 ratio rearend (or tranny config) will increase your max RPM
from 3100 to 9300, but you will have divided your power consumption
by 3 also.  On a more positive note however, if you had 2 matched
props you could put one on each end of that rearend and not have the
problem of it trying to fly off...while getting twice the power sink. 
Sounds like one helluva dangerous and loud contraption.

I had figured that an irrigation pump would be as good a compromise
as anything. Some people would be grateful to have you blast a stream
of water into the air and aerate (sp?) their pond. Lack of O2 in the
water is a common summertime problem for small ponds.

I'd kinda like to see that mega leaf blower if anyone tries it.

Greg Parmer                   gparmer@acenet.auburn.edu



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From: Frank_Marrone@optilink.optilink.dsccc.com
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To: DIY_EFI
Subject: RE: propellor dyno
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I showed the propeller post to a friend of mine.  We have been toying with the
build at home dyno idea for quite some time now.  We were thinking maybe a jet
boat prop in a large swiming pool or lake would make a good load but the
airplane propellor sounds even better.

I thought I'd forward his comments to the list since he had some input both
humorous and technical...

--- Forwarded mail from sdelanty@wco.com

From: sdelanty@wco.com
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 16:38:40 -0500


>
>Hello,
>The local aircraft rebuilder thinks a used aircraft propeller could be
>an excellent power waster.
>Perfectly good propellers, propeller shafts, crankshafts and other
>parts are discarded due to age, hours of use or minor cosmetic damages.

That's a cool idea!
So where do we get 'em?
Next time we go to quinns we should ask around at the airport.

>Beyond the speed of sound the prop might break or just
>be a power (dynamometer) waster.

Wasting power is cool! Breaking would suck! Have to be careful about that.

If you had a prop that used more power than you had available, You could
restrict the inlet air to "unload" it.

>Clubs are like propellers, but intended for engine testing on ground.
>Clubs can be inexpensively made for custom purposes.

I'll bet if one was clever, clubs could be made at home.
Clubs also have the advantage that they don't push tons of air in just one
direction, so the thrust bearing could be less heavy duty.

>A prop on a rear axle could be cheap and avoid the 3100 RPM limit via
>hypoid gear ratio. The differential could be locked for <$5, via
>addition of 2 spider gears. A thrust bearing might not be needed as
>ring gear axial thrust might exceed prop thrust.

How about a tranny (for changing load) and rear end (2.0?) with 2 smaller
props, one on each axle? If the props pointed in opposite direction, the
thing would have less of a tendancy to "fly away".
It would suck to have Your 390 get away and go flying around geyserville!
 Also the thrust load on each would only be half of what one larger prop
would create.
Maybe a set of props or blowers that just bolt up to the rear axles of the
vehicle to be dynoed. Kind of a chassis dyno thing, just jack the rear end up
on yer car, pull the wheels off and bolt yer props on...

>Some calculation of (effect of) thrust to be generated would be in
>order. Also consider tendency of prop to "process" people.

Maybe we could use it to chop a big batch of salsa.

 Steve Delanty
sdelanty@wco.com



---End of forwarded mail from sdelanty@wco.com

-- 
Frank Marrone at marrone@optilink.dsccc.com
1965 Sunbeam Tiger B9471116
1960 Sumbean Pintopine Series I B9009330
1966 Ford LTD 4-door family barge.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 31 22:05:01 1995
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To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Dynamometer, affordable 
In-reply-to: Your message of "Thu, 31 Aug 95 16:11:57 PDT."
             <9508312011.AA01498@iw008447.> 
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 15:04:18 PDT
From: Harmon Sommer <harmons@sequent.com>
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>I'd kinda like to see that mega leaf blower if anyone tries it.

Swamp buggies have been using this technology for years (instead of blowing
the leaf they become the leaf).

My understanding of R-4360 engines as used in B-36s, had a geared
propeller, where the gearbox was planetary gear train. The planetary gears
were restrained by a yoke, which reacted against a hydraulic piston.
Pressure information from this piston was displayed to the flight engineer.
This information related directly to engine torque i.e. an in flight
dynamometer (or six of them; one for each engine).

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 31 22:21:57 1995
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From: Frank_Marrone@optilink.optilink.dsccc.com
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In-Reply-To: Harmon Sommer <harmons@sequent.com>
        "Re: Dynamometer, affordable" (Aug 31,  3:04pm)
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On Aug 31,  3:04pm, Harmon Sommer wrote:
> Subject: Re: Dynamometer, affordable
>...The planetary gears
> were restrained by a yoke, which reacted against a hydraulic piston.
> Pressure information from this piston was displayed to the flight engineer.
> This information related directly to engine torque i.e. an in flight
> dynamometer (or six of them; one for each engine).

The hydraulic piston is how we planned to measure force on our DIY dyno.
 Standard hydraulic cylinders can be purchased with ratings from hundreds to
 thousands of PSI and the the piston diameters are either specified or can be
measured.  You simply apply the load to the ram and measure the fluid preassure
at the (normally) input port and calculate torque based on piston area and
lever arm length.  Empiric calibration of such a device would be very easy as
well.


-- 
Frank Marrone at marrone@optilink.dsccc.com
1965 Sunbeam Tiger B9471116
1960 Sumbean Pintopine Series I B9009330
1966 Ford LTD 4-door family barge.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 31 22:41:03 1995
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From: "Graydon D. Stuckey" <graydon@apollo.gmi.edu>
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To: Parmer <dkls7q6@is000895.gmi.edu>
Cc: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Dynamometer, affordable
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On Thu, 31 Aug 1995, Parmer wrote:

> I'd kinda like to see that mega leaf blower if anyone tries it.

A few years ago when I was in school down south, they had an aviation 
program, and outside the building, they had a big radial engine out of a 
very big, old airplane.  It was mounted to a test stand, with a prop, and 
when started, made a great noise, and alot of wind.  It had a variable 
pitch prop, so they could set it to not move any air at all, or they 
could adjust it to move alot of air.
	It always stands me in awe to see thousands of HP instead of the 
usual 100s that we deal with in the automotive industry.

Later,									
Graydon D. Stuckey								
graydon@apollo.gmi.edu								
'86 Audi 5000 CS Turbo Quattro, GDS Racing Stage 1
'83 Mazda RX7 w/13B, GDS Racing Stage 58474


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Aug 31 23:17:04 1995
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To: DIY_EFI
Subject: RE: propellor dyno
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> >Some calculation of (effect of) thrust to be generated would be in
> >order. Also consider tendency of prop to "process" people.
> 
> Maybe we could use it to chop a big batch of salsa.
> 
>  Steve Delanty
> sdelanty@wco.com
> 
> 
> 
> ---End of forwarded mail from sdelanty@wco.com
> 
> -- 
> Frank Marrone at marrone@optilink.dsccc.com

Silly question, but how 'bout using it in front of grandad's windmill and
recouping some $$$ from the electric co?


L8r,
-S                                [EFI Rat infested '39 Ford Tudor Sedan Deluxe]

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  1 06:03:36 1995
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From: Craig Pugsley <c.pugsley@trl.oz.au>
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Subject: Re: Dynamometer, affordable
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In-Reply-To: <199508311851.OAA29598@access1.digex.net> from "Bill Lewis" at Aug 31, 95 02:51:02 pm
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> I've considered building a light dyno using a VW Type I transaxle, connecting
> a torque measuring device (like a torque wrench) to the output flange on
> one side, and a water spray cooled disk brake on the other.  I'm afraid

Hmm.. How about a diff assembly out of an IRS car with inboard discs.
(an old Jag diff perhaps)
You could probably even get tricky and make up a cradle so it could fit
underneath a car (with the engine installed), and run the tailshaft out
of the gearbox to the 'load device'. Make certain that the tailshaft
universal joint angles are within an acceptable range and the thing is
secure (eg the weight of the vehicle holding it down).

Cheers,
Craig.


