From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  1 10:26:44 1995
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Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 19:42:00 +0000
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Propane Motor Fuel Injection
To: diy_efi
Message-id: <206534.7.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us>
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059
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-> > 1. cheap - at least here in Canada, less than half the cost of
-> gasoline

> per gallon yes, per mile, not quite.  I don't remember the exact
> number, but the energy content of propane is significantly lower than
> gasoline.

 Here in Arkansas, unleaded regular runs about 97 cents per gallon.
Propane runs $1.50.  Diesel runs around a dollar per gallon.

 Regardless of any inherent advantages of gaseous vs liquid fuels, Otto
or Diesel cycles, the major player continues to be the tax burden on the
fuel.  More than half the pump price of gasoline is tax.
                                                                                                                         

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  1 11:18:56 1995
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Date: Fri, 1 Dec 1995 06:10:06 -0500
From: jsg (John S Gwynne)
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Subject: [admin] List services (automated monthly post)
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This message is post monthly as a reminder of the available list
services.

For help: Send "help" to Majordomo@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu. 

To post: Send to "[list name]@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"

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	unsubscribe [list name] [your *registered* email address if
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The archives to all the mailing lists are available through
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WWW site:
diy_efi http://www.cpsc.ucalgary.ca/~fridman/diy_efi
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Please send information to be added to this posting to
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John





     



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  1 13:07:51 1995
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To: diy_efi
From: Johnny <allnight@everett.net>
Subject: Re: Propane Motor Fuel Injection
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At 07:42 PM 11/30/95 +0000, you wrote:
>
>-> > 1. cheap - at least here in Canada, less than half the cost of
>-> gasoline
>
>> per gallon yes, per mile, not quite.  I don't remember the exact
>> number, but the energy content of propane is significantly lower than
>> gasoline.
>
> Here in Arkansas, unleaded regular runs about 97 cents per gallon.
>Propane runs $1.50.  Diesel runs around a dollar per gallon.
>
> Regardless of any inherent advantages of gaseous vs liquid fuels, Otto
>or Diesel cycles, the major player continues to be the tax burden on the
>fuel.  More than half the pump price of gasoline is tax.

hehe, that's the best thing about propane. In the Seattle area unleaded
regular is about $1.05 to $1.15, Propane at the pump (road tax applied)
about $1.25, but at home in that huge tank in the front yard for heating
fuel it's only $.75 per gal, delivered now, pay later. I have a hose on my
tank for filling... uh .. er.. my tractor, ya that's it, my tractor.

No wait, the best part is that you can actually build a real motor for it,
you know with pop-ups, I figure about 12:1 should be just about right. At
that compression there is no limit to how much cam you can run. Ya and
emmissions... hah, just drive right by that stupid little test booth while
laying down some serious rubber. You can get the exemption for propane
powered vehicles.

I have been experimenting with trying to get the stuff to stay in a liquid
state all the way to the injector, off and on, for quite a while now. I
could never quite get the line pressure to be stable enough under varying
throttle conditions. Part of the trouble was I was not able to get the right
injectors. I am thinking now that I can just pump up the tank with nitrogen
to boost the tank pressure to about 300-400psi or so, regulate it  through a
liquid type high pressure regulator to get the line pressure stablized at
about 150psi or so, go with the high pressure injectors you guy have
mentioned here, sized as tiny as possible so that I can get fairly good
metering at idle.

I think if you build a high compression engine designed exclusively for
propane use, it could be a real killer. Just think about how much bang you
can get out of 12:1 compared to the 9:1 we are forced to use for running
that swamp water they dish out as gasoline.

I'll see ya later (door slams as he scurries out to the shop to scrounge parts)

-j-


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  1 13:08:57 1995
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Subject: Getting Started
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Folks,

	Quick questions for everyone here.  I am new to the list, so some of
this might have been covered else were.  First, what are some good sources of
info for hardware (CISC and RISC MCUs), software (C and assembly for the MCU's)
and info on all the supporting components.  For reference, I want to build a
complete efi for my motorcycle.  I want to use a speed density system similar
to the one in Circuit Cellar Ink, but I do believe it needs some extra items to
be viable for a street bike.  Some of these are:
	intake air temperature (for density calculations)
	engine temp (idle enrichment)
	cam postion sensor (sequential fuel injection for idle quality)
	(possibly) knock sensor (for the crappy gas you sometimes get)

	Needless to say, this is not a complete list of what I want or need. 
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.  Oh, one more thing I really do
not have a clue about is some of the engin control algortims.  Anybody know of
a good source?  Thanks.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  1 14:36:58 1995
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From: "Shaw, Chris" <Shaw_C@fs107.npt.nuwc.navy.mil>
To: "'DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <DIY_EFI>
Subject: Serial data protocol on production autos.
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 1995 09:19:17 -0500
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Hello,

 I am trying to get information on the ODB-II communication protocol used=
 in new production autos.  I would like to write code to monitor/modify v=
ehicle functions.  There are tools available which do this, however, I am=
 an engineer and thought it would be interesting to do it on my own. =20
 There are some ISO standards on "low-speed serial data communication" us=
ed in vehicles, but they are very expensive, and I am not sure if it's th=
e information I need.
 Any information would be helpful.  If this request doesn't fit into your=
 group, I apologize.

Thank you in advance,

Chris Shaw.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  1 14:54:52 1995
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From: walter@roadster.sps.mot.com (thomas walter x5955)
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To: diy_efi
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> Quick questions for everyone here.  I am new to the list, so some of
> this might have been covered else were. 

Welcome to the list.

Quite a few people have vastly different idea's of what to use, 
and so on. Best is to use what YOU are comfortable with! Sorry,
just no correct answer on this one (80535 -8031 code-, 64180 -Z80
code-, 8096, 68HC11, 68HC16 are just a few of the possibilities).

Some of the people on this list came to the conclusion the 68332
was the uC to use, forming a seperate mailing list titled "efi332"
also served by the same machine. 

I'd highly recommend using the majordomo command for the list
and getting all the archieves to read through first. Probably
answer a good number of your questions. [John just posted
that, but if you missed it: send the word "help" to 
majordomo@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu  for more infomation]

Check the following www sites for more information:

http://www.cpsc.ucalgary.ca/~fridman/diy_efi         *diy_efi*
http://cim.mm.swin.edu.au/                           *efi322*


other neat sites:
http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/~k124476/vehicles/3T-GTEfi.html
http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling

For MOTORCYCLE's I would be hestitant of fitting a bike with
any system until it is 100% debugged. Having an engine sieze
at 70 mph could be FATAL! No fun at all going down at that
speed, leathers or not! 

With any "test mule" always realize there is a good chance
of damaging the engine due to too lean, wrong advance 
curves, etc during debug. Once again I'm being pessimistic,
but you should be aware of that if the vehicle is a "daily
driver".

If you read back through the old email messages it should
be clear that everyone has a different background, and can
bring "their piece of the puzzle" to the table. ;-) Also
quite a few work in the industry in same manner, and are
restricted by "non disclosure" agreements, but are more
than willing to help with GENERAL questions.

Hmmm.... John & the rest of the list. Probably would be
nice to set up a "Welcome packet" of information to send
to people when they subscribe. Listing the "Purpose and
Scope" of the list, and handy references. Hey, we've all
been there wondering "how does that work", so nothing
wrong with that. 

Cheers,

Tom Walter  '67 Datsun 2000  '72 Datsun 510 ("test mule" to be ;-)
Austin, TX. '95 Ford Aerostar 


P.S. Please sign your name at the bottom of posting.
Some mail servers have just the "from diy_efi" so you can not
tell who posted the artice.  Also, please, when posting a follow
up - quote just one or two lines to jog our memory. ;-) Thanks!

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  1 15:01:18 1995
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From: Bruce Bowling <bowling@cebaf.gov>
Subject: Re: More Inductive Pickup
To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 1995 9:52:01 EST
In-Reply-To: <199511302239.JAA22410@helena.rdt.monash.edu.au>; from "Brendan Simon" at Dec 01, 95 9:39 am
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~ 
~ > I was told that an inductive pickup (from a timing light) will
~ > produce enough current to flash an LED.  I have not tried this yet,
~ > however, I am wondering if the pulse width from a spark is long
~ > enough to "see".  What is an "average" length of a spark?
~ > 
~ 
~ I found that the voltage was enough to light a LED most of the time.  
~ I used a wave shaping circuit (AM radio detector like) and then through
~ a opto-coupler.  This worked for some motorbikes and not others.  Something
~ to do with lower compression I think.
~ 
Well, last night I hooked an LED across the inductive pickup probe
(as per Wayne Glasser), and hooked it up to a plug wire, and it works,
at least for a stock GM HEI.  It was dark outside, and one can see the faint
pulses from the LED, which got brighter when the car was revved up,
I think helping my eye persistance.  What was interesting to note was
at idle, every once in a while, the light flashed a "tad" brighter
for one pulse, and this corresponded to a RPM sputter (I have a somewhat
long duration cam installed).  

The opto-coupler is a nice idea in that it adds another layer of
isolation (separate from the pickup itself) for the logic-level
circuit.  The light was very faint on a garden-variety LED, and I 
do not know if the LED in an opto-coupler will conduct the
phototransistor very hard.  But there are opto units with Darlington
phototransistors, and even some with Schmidtt trigger outputs.

Of course, hooking this rig up to an MSD ignition would count
every spark pulse (something like 20/spark event at idle) and
screw up any counting logic circuit.  One fix is a retriggerable
monostable, like a 555, with a one-shot period slightly longer than 
period between MSD pulses.

I now can play...

- Bruce




--
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------
               Bruce A. Bowling
  Staff Scientist - Instrumentation and Controls
 The Continuous Electron Beam Accelerator Facility
    12000 Jefferson Ave - Newport News, VA 23602
                 (804) 249-7240
                bowling@cebaf.gov  
        http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  1 16:08:08 1995
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Date: Fri, 1 Dec 1995 10:46:13 -0500
From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
Message-Id: <9512011546.AA07965@ivan.gallium.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: More Inductive Pickup
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

> Of course, hooking this rig up to an MSD ignition would count
> every spark pulse (something like 20/spark event at idle) and
> screw up any counting logic circuit.  One fix is a retriggerable
> monostable, like a 555, with a one-shot period slightly longer than 
> period between MSD pulses.

If you're using an MSD, don't measure the output from the box, measure the
input (which is already at a much lower level and is a single pulse). I talked
to MSD and posted a description of the input signal. It'll be somewhere back
in previous messages on this list.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  1 17:01:43 1995
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From: m_mcdonald@marx.ENET.dec.com
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Date: Fri, 1 Dec 95 11:41:17 EST
To: diy_efi
Cc: carterh@crl.com
Apparently-To: carterh@crl.com, diy_efi
Subject: Safety while working with spark plug wires
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu


> On Thu, 30 Nov 1995 m_mcdonald@marx.enet.dec.com wrote:

>> At idle speeds, most modern ignition systems should produce a spark
>> that jumps an air gap of at least 3/8" and displays a solid blue
>> color.  Be careful doing this by removing a spark plug wire while
>> the engine is running because you could get zapped,

>						-could- get zapped?

> A GM HEI got me once working around my distributor machine. The tightness
> across my chest was angina, lasted a week, and I never spoke a word about
> it to my wife, Lynn.  Please don't mess around with this stuff.

>> [You could get zapped if]
>> you remove it [spark plug wire at the boot] with one bare hand and
>> brace yourself to a metal part of the car with the other hand.
>> Inexpensive variable air gaps, that connect the end of a spark plug
>> wire inside its boot to ground via the air gap, are available.


> Just put a spark plug at the end of the cable and lay the plug on a 
> grounded surface. And don't touch it. Please be careful.

>				--Carter

Simply laying the plug on a grounded surface isn't a safe enough way
to look for a spark between the center and side electrodes.

1.  The spark plug body to grounded metal connection is by gravity
    alone -- which could lead to high resistance and inaccurate
    readings.

2.  When the engine starts, the vibration could bounce the spark plug
    to hanging in free air.  Then, 40,000 volts would be looking for
    the nearest ground and could find it at any number of undesirable
    places such as fuel rails.

I recommend using a short wire with a pair of alligator clips to
connect the side electrode to a good ground *AND* to hold the spark
plug in a safe place.  Better yet, NAPA and other stores sell a special
spark plug with a wide center electrode/side electrode gap and an
alligator clip riveted to the shell of the plug.  This clip both
gives a good ground connection and holds the plug in place.  It costs
a very reasonable $7.00 or so.

Carter is absolutely right.  High voltage in modern ignition systems
(and even in my 1940 Ford with its 6-volt coil and breaker points)
is something to treat with a great deal of respect and planning.  It
is dangerous, especially when passing from one hand through the heart
to the other and grounded hand.

Other comments about high-voltage safety are always welcome.

Marll McDonald   KB1AGM
m_mcdonald@marx.enet.dec.com
 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  1 17:40:49 1995
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To: diy_efi
Cc: shaw_c@fs107.npt.nuwc.navy.mil
Apparently-To: shaw_c@fs107.npt.nuwc.navy.mil, diy_efi
Subject: RE: Serial data protocol on production autos
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>  I am trying to get information on the ODB-II communication protocol used
>  in new production autos.

"New production" includes a few 1995 model year (MY) and all 1996 MY
automobiles and light trucks.

> I would like to write code to monitor/modify vehicle functions.
> There are tools available which do this, however, I am
> an engineer and thought it would be interesting to do it on my own.

Welcome to the club.  I don't feel like paying Snap-on Tools or other
companies $1,000 and up for their products.  I'm trying to monitor
(but not modify) my 1993 Ford Escort's non-OBD-II data stream using
a connection to a laptop PC.
 
> There are some ISO standards on "low-speed serial data communication"
> used in vehicles, but they are very expensive, and I am not sure if
> it's the information I need.

I believe the standards are largely those of the Society of Automotive
Engineers (SAE).  The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has decreed
to all manufacturers that they will follow these SAE standards as they
open their OBD-II emissions-related data streams to scan tool
manufacturers (Snap-on Tools, etc.) and to "any person engaged in the
repairing or servicing of motor vehicles or motor vehicle engines."
It turns out that "emissions-related data" includes most, if not
all, data related to engine performance.  It does not include the
data stream that Mercedes computers send to electric motors to raise
the convertible top automatically when rain falls on leather seats ;-).

I bought the standards manual from the SAE.  It cost $65.00 (ouch!)
but it contains vast amounts of information that is extremely helpful
to people such as you and other people on this mailing list and me.
The SAE is in Warrendale, PA with a 412 area code.  They accept plastic
and will send you HS-3000 (or is it HS-3500?) in a couple of days.  The
manual has a title with words about OBD-II diagnostics for cars and
light trucks.

>  Any information would be helpful.  If this request doesn't fit into your=
>  group, I apologize.

Hope this information helps.  Yes, I think your request fits into this
group because of its advanced do-it-yourself nature involving automobile
engine electronics even if the request isn't explicitly about fuel
injection.
 
> Thank you in advance,

> Chris Shaw.

Marll McDonald   KB1AGM
m_mcdonald@marx.enet.dec.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  1 20:59:53 1995
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From: "David M Parrish" <dmp@bmesun1.MCG.EDU>
To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 1995 15:46:44 +0000
Subject: Re: Safety while working with spark plug wires
Priority: normal
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> From:          m_mcdonald@marx.enet.dec.com

> Carter is absolutely right.  High voltage in modern ignition systems
> (and even in my 1940 Ford with its 6-volt coil and breaker points)
> is something to treat with a great deal of respect and planning.  It
> is dangerous, especially when passing from one hand through the heart
> to the other and grounded hand.
> 
> Other comments about high-voltage safety are always welcome.

Yourself isn't the only one at risk. I have a '84 Chrysler Laser turbo 
with a totally electronic dash. I was doing a compression check and 
had disconnected the coil lead from the dist. cap, without grounding 
the HV lead. What I got was a high voltage kickback into my 
electrical system. I didn't seem to do any major damage, (I've put 
about 140,000 miles on it since then.) but I was 
surprised that - according to my trip odometer - I'd traveled more 
than fifteen thousand miles while parked in my garage.  The main 
odometer had gained more than nine thousand miles. It could of 
easily fried just about everything electronic in the car.


---
David Parrish
220,000 miles...  Corrected.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  1 21:10:34 1995
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From: Mike Rigby-Jones <mike@cooper.zynet.co.uk>
Subject: efi on ancient engine
Date: Fri, 01 Dec 1995 20:54:03 
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I don't know if any of you guys have had any experience with the A-series
engine as used in the mini.  For those of you who haven't its an ancient
design with an iron block, three bearing crank and a five port head (two
siamesed inlet ports, one siamesed exhaust port and two single exhaust port).

In order to get any reasonable power out of it the cam has to be of silly
duration (300 degrees plus) with huge compression ratios (13:1).  The latest
cam design is known as a scatter profile.  This has different timing on the
centre two cylinders to the outer two to compensate for the differences in
the ports (inners have siamesed exhaust).

What I want to know is does anyone manufacture an efi system that can give
differnt fuel delivery and spark timings to different cylinders?  (The
distributor gives timming scatter but its not very predictable ;-)

On a more technical note, I have had a look at the diy-efi system running on
the PC.  This clarified the general operation of fuel injection considerably
and I would quite like to have a go at a stand alone system.  However it is
mapped ignition that really appeals to me and I am unsure as to how this
operates.  Does it use hardware timers as per fuel injection but with
software to convert angles to time?

Any help on the above would be greatly appreciated or even a pointer to the
best book on the subject (preferably something reasonably technical)

Cheers all

Mike Rigby-Jones
======================================
| A tuned engine is like sex...      |
| A few seconds of frenzied activity |
| and you know it's gonna cost you...|
======================================


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  1 22:22:35 1995
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To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 1 Dec 95 14:59:06 MDT
From: dn <dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
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> Inexpensive pen-size detectors are available from (gasp) J.C. Whitney
> and Snap-on Tools and other automobile tool suppliers.  Holding these
> detectors near any spark plug wire will show the presence of high
> voltage as a flashing light inside the detector.

Hey, a light bulb just went on in my head (sorry).  These pen size high
voltage detectors consist simply of a standard NE2 type neon light bulb.
One lead of the bulb is grounded (or tied through the metal case to your
body, which acts as an antenna).  The presence of high voltage nearby is 
enough to ionize the neon in the bulb and light it up... so why not 
optically couple a phototransistor to a standard neon bulb by heat-
shrinking the two together, and, voila, instant pickup.  One lead of the 
neon would have to be tied to circuit ground to provide a return path for
the ionization current, the other lead is simply cut off. The photo-
transistor could be simply wired as an open collector switch, tied via
pullup resistor to your input.  2 wires, simple as hell (if it works)
Haven't actually tried this, but it should work, and for about 25 cents
worth of parts.

Well, that's my two bits worth...
dn


--
\/<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<</\
\/ Darrell A. Norquay                   Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca      /\
\/ Datalog Technology Inc.              Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell /\
\/ Calgary, Alberta, Canada             Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220             /\
\/                                      Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872             /\
\/    • ¢                                                                    /\
\/     Á                                                                     /\
\/    __/     "Ain't no substitute for clock speed or compression ratio"     /\
\/>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>/\

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  1 22:35:03 1995
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From: Matthew Beaubien <mbeaubie@gpu.srv.ualberta.ca>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Propane Motor Fuel Injection
In-Reply-To: <199512011355.FAA01727@post.everett.net>
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On Fri, 1 Dec 1995, Johnny wrote:

> I think if you build a high compression engine designed exclusively for
> propane use, it could be a real killer. Just think about how much bang you
> can get out of 12:1 compared to the 9:1 we are forced to use for running
> that swamp water they dish out as gasoline.

This is a little off topic, but I have a question as to how much power 
would be increased by increasing the cr from 9:1 to 12:1.

I have a formula which states that the percentage increase would be:

(1-new_cr^-.4     )
(------------ - 1 ) * 100
(1-old_cr^-.4     )

Pluggin the numbers in shows a gain of 7.7%. This doesn't really seem like a
whole bunch. Why do people run 12:1 compression ratios, having to use avgas
and/or octane booster, when they can run ~10:1 on pump gas and lose only a
few hp. 


Matt.
2 '71 510's (street cars)
1 '77 Civic 1200 (1.3L racecar)

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  1 22:59:13 1995
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Date: Fri, 1 Dec 1995 20:16:06 GMT
From: Clint Sharp <clint@clintsmc.demon.co.uk>
Message-Id: <457@clintsmc.demon.co.uk>
To: diy_efi
Cc: carterh@crl.com
Subject: Re: Safety while working with spark plug wires
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In your message dated Friday 1, December 1995 you wrote :

> plug in a safe place.  Better yet, NAPA and other stores sell a special
> spark plug with a wide center electrode/side electrode gap and an
> alligator clip riveted to the shell of the plug.  This clip both
> gives a good ground connection and holds the plug in place.  It costs
> a very reasonable $7.00 or so.
Clamp a crocodile clip to an old plug with a jubilee (British name?) hose clip,
really handy and dirt cheap as well as safe. Had one in my box for about three 
years now, ever since I got my first shock off an MG Midget ignition system
(Points and coil, no electronics, which probably explains why I'm still here)

-- 
We apologise for the lack of coherent humorous comments.
 Normal service will be resumed shortly.
                       clint@clintsmc.demon.co.uk


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec  2 05:20:16 1995
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From: Steve Baldwin <steveb@kcbbs.gen.nz>
Message-Id: <199512020457.RAA21923@kcbbs.gen.nz>
Subject: Re: Safety while working with spark plug wires
To: diy_efi
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 1995 17:57:23 +1300 (NZDT)
In-Reply-To: <457@clintsmc.demon.co.uk> from "Clint Sharp" at Dec 1, 95 08:16:06 pm
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Pulling plug wires off with the engine running is something that I do
reasonably often to find weak or missing cylinders. This is mostly on
older points type igntion where the leads are often dirty too.
Side note: Dirty leads cause no end of bother when there's a bit of dew
about. Far easier for a spark to go down the outside of an oil/water
covered lead than through the carbon center. Discovering this also
causes pain.

My method for yanking leads off is to pull them off with a jumper cable.
Clip the other end to a good earth and hang on to the insulated handle,
clip it onto the boot and pull it off.

I like the idea of the plug with a hose clip though.

Steve.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec  2 06:59:15 1995
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To: diy_efi
From: Johnny <allnight@everett.net>
Subject: Re: Propane Motor Fuel Injection
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

At 02:41 PM 12/1/95 -0700, you wrote:

>This is a little off topic, but I have a question as to how much power 
>would be increased by increasing the cr from 9:1 to 12:1.
>
>I have a formula which states that the percentage increase would be:
>
>(1-new_cr^-.4     )
>(------------ - 1 ) * 100
>(1-old_cr^-.4     )
>
>Pluggin the numbers in shows a gain of 7.7%. This doesn't really seem like a
>whole bunch.

hmm, 590hp plus 7.7% = 631hp 
Which would you rather have?

>Why do people run 12:1 compression ratios, having to use avgas
>and/or octane booster, when they can run ~10:1 on pump gas and lose only a
>few hp. 

Your right, it is a little off topic, but at the risk of being rude I will
briefly comment that it is not only the gain in power from the compression
itself, which at 7.7% is subsantial (if that is indeed what it really is),
but the main reason is that the crazier the cam timing, the more compression
ratio is recomended for it to work right. If you put a cam with a duration
of 255 degrees @ .050 lift and a total valve lift of .690 with 102 degree
lobe center into a 9:1 engine, you will be sadly dissapointed in the way it
runs, if it runs at all. 

To extract the most power, you have to adjust your torque curve to as high
as your engine will bear. To do that you have to run the crazy roller cam.
To do that you have to run a compression ratio of 12:1 or more. To do that
you have to run race gas, alcohol, or propane... etc.

Now your starting to make some power.

Of course there's alway hope for that 9:1 engine if you add a blower to it.

The point of my earlier reply to the tax/fuel price/emissions issue was that
you can end up with a win win situation by going to propane... and while you
are doing that you might as well take advantage of being able to run the
highest compression ratio you can get away with, just like you do by running
swamp water in your 10:1 engine. If you design the thing for propane, you
would be lame to not design it for at least 12:1-13:1.

-j-


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec  2 14:10:04 1995
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To: diy_efi
From: jwharris@holli.com (J.W. Harris)
Subject: Re: 68HC11 and MAF sensor
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 My second question why do they convert to freq, just using
>the 0 to 5 volts output
>would be easier wouldn't it.  
>
using 8 an bit a/d probably wouldn't give enough resolution.  The noisy 
environment would make it difficult to use a higher resolution a/d 
effectively.  absolute accuracy is also a problem because of unit to unit 
a/d and wiring variability.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
J.W. Harris                                          Delco Electronics Corp.
Project Engineer                                     One Corporate Center
Powertrain Electronics                               M.S. CT40C
                                                     Kokomo, IN 46904-9005
jwharris@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com

Of course, all responses are my own and should not be mistaken for those of
Delco Electronics or General Motors.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec  2 14:32:27 1995
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From: walter@roadster.sps.mot.com (thomas walter x5955)
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For those looking to "Getting started on this project":


To begin with: KEEP IT SIMPLE! The first fuel injection systems
were analog designs, no microprocessors were even used! They were
not optimized for the best results, but worked well and were
pretty reliable! [411 VW with the D-jetronic was probably the
first system I came across. Even had an adjustable fuel pressure
regulator to play with!]

The later L-jetronic went with some pretty simple uC's with very
little code to them. Inputs were air flow, air temp, water temp,
two throttle position switches (idle and WOT), and battery voltage.  
Closed loop design (with a EGO sensor) came later.  

Most of the OLDER control systems are pretty straight forward MATH!

FUEL PULSE WIDTH =  injector open time + air flow + temp compensation
                    +battery_voltage
 

Each fuel width is triggered of a engine cycle (ignition), which takes
care of the rpm. The amount of fuel is determined by the amount of
time to open/close an injectors (which depends on the battery voltage),
The amount of air entering the engine, and the temperature of the engine.

[There is also the method of just DETERMINING the amount of air entering
the engine by observing the engine vacuum and not using a air vane
style measurement. Just easiest to base your STARTING system on what
hardware maybe common to your target engine]

Start with a simple BATCH fired injection system, and take it from there.

All the later & more sophisticated systems started with this simple idea
from the days of the ANALOG boxes. Obvious is a curve is not linear,
then a look up table (map) makes more sense to use rather than doing
a whole bunch of math.

Once you have the basic system RUNNING, then I would look at adding
the ignition controls to the system [ignition information is already
available to the system, just have a "loop back" on the original system
that uses the stock ignition trigger to fire the coil. Later on
use a relay (normally closed to function as a "limp home" mode)
under a uC control to fire an "optimized timing signal" with knock
sensor, and load (vacuum/boost) sensors.


A rough example of the development cycle:

SYSTEM DEVELOPMENT:

STAGE ZERO:	 System requirements! This is the MOST demanding task,
			   and should not be overlooked. Put it into writing.
			   List your goals, time line, and go from there!
 
             Purpose: determine goal and what is needed to get there!
 
			 What is YOUR goal?
			 What is the maximum amount of fuel required for WOT?
			 Determine MAXIMUM size of the injectors (+20%)
             What range of ignition advance (start & final for rpm
				and load sensor)
			 Determine what hardware will be needed for the engine
                in question. (TBI, Port, etc)
             Start getting the parts & pieces together.
             EMI, RFI, LOAD DUMPS, and other "unknowns". They exist 
               and should be planned for! (metal enclosure, filtered
               input and output signals, over voltage protection]

       
STAGE ONE:  Basic fuel control.
			Purpose: "learning to walk"
            GOAL:  Drive vehicle around the block without any 
                   engine fires or meltdowns!

            Basic control:
			Cold Start enrichment device (injects extra fuel
				timed by a "temperature sensitive relay).
			Open loop system with following inputs:
				air flow
				air temp
				water temp
                rpm signal (ignition trigger)

            Electric fuel pump relay controlled by oil pressure,
            while engine is running. (Safety first!)
				
            OBSERVE: Exhaust with a HEGO sensor & bar graph display.

STAGE TWO:	Fine Tune the fuel control
            Purpose: "learning to walk quickly"
			GOAL:  Start to tweak the system for maximum economy & power
			
            STAGE ONE, PLUS:
			idle contact switch (software for idle)
            WOT contact switch  (software to go "open loop rich" at WOT)
             
            cold start enrichment via the injectors:
					system will require a onboard timer. Hence the one
					circuit that is left running while the ignition is
					"off". 

			switched ignition
			starter engaged

STAGE THREE: Closed loop operation.
			 Purpose: increase fuel economy for cruise conditions.
             Goal: adjust fuel mixture based on the EGO signal

			 EGO added.

			 Software to DATALOG and output sensor conditions.

   3.5

			Limp home modes fully debugged! (i.e. a 555 timer fired
					off the engine rpm. Runs like trash, gets you home,
                    hint: rich mixture is less likely to warp the head!) 
            Simple diagnostics to check for open and shorted sensors. 
                   and parameters that changed TOO QUICKLY.

    3.6

			Throttle position sensor. Improved throttle response to
				changing "stomping on it" to pass.

STAGE FOUR: Development of the ignition control hardware.
			Purpose: basic ignition control.

			Observe time duration between ignition events to determine
			the engine rpm.

			Trigger the ignition (SPDT relay). Use a STOCK OEM map
			(mechanical distributor) as a starting point.
	
		    Engine vacuum sensor to adjust ignition timing (per stock
               specs).


STAGE FIVE:	Enhaunced Ignition control.

			Software changes to the system to MAP the response.

			Knock sensor added to additional control.

STAGE SIX: Full load condition.

			More software, based on IDLE AND WOT switches.
			
            Wheel sensor - speed information (if WOT == 1,
               and SPEED is decreasing... back off ignition!
               How many of you pull trailers!)

STAGE SEVEN: Getting there!

			Ignition timing now using FULL CONTROL. Software
			to optimize each cylinder with coil per cylinder:

			Ignition timing wheel (i.e. Bosch 58 tooth)
			Coil per cylinder technology, 
				[I'll use a double ended coil, to allow
				 a simpler LIMP HOME mode operation on a 4 cyl]

STAGE EIGHT: Whew!

			Adaptive technology. 
            An exercise left for the student ;-)




Your features can really
go from here, thermocouples on all the exhaust ports BEFORE you
begin may not be a bad idea at all. A simple DATALOG system to
record parameters (water temp, exhaust temps, length of time
the engine has been running, etc) maybe a good way to start this
and get your feet wet BEFORE building your own engine controller.

I realize for some on the list, this is really too basic. But with
the understanding of "How do I get started", this should help get
you one your way to THINKING about the system.

Ok, that about wraps it for the first pass of this spec. Any and
all comments welcome and appreciated: email to: 
walter@roadster.sps.mot.com

Cheers,

Tom Walter
Austin, TX.



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec  2 23:13:23 1995
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From: David Patrick <dmpat@ksu.ksu.edu>
To: Steve Baldwin <steveb@kcbbs.gen.nz>
cc: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Safety while working with spark plug wires
In-Reply-To: <199512020457.RAA21923@kcbbs.gen.nz>
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Come on, what is all this whining about a simple little "jolt" every now 
and then!  Why not be a man and just take it!  I also believe that vice 
grips and duct tape can fix anything!

__________________________________________________

David M. Patrick                   KSU Formula SAE
dmpat@ksu.ksu.edu              Formula Team Leader
(913) 537-7630             Kansas State University
1838 Anderson #1            Mechanical Engineering
Manhatan, KS 66502
__________________________________________________

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec  2 23:24:00 1995
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At 05:57 PM 12/2/95 +1300, you wrote:
>Pulling plug wires off with the engine running is something that I do
>reasonably often to find weak or missing cylinders. This is mostly on
>older points type igntion where the leads are often dirty too.
>Side note: Dirty leads cause no end of bother when there's a bit of dew
>about. Far easier for a spark to go down the outside of an oil/water
>covered lead than through the carbon center. Discovering this also
>causes pain.
>
>My method for yanking leads off is to pull them off with a jumper cable.
>Clip the other end to a good earth and hang on to the insulated handle,
>clip it onto the boot and pull it off.
>
>
watch out for your catalyts assuming you  (still?) have one. (mine gets looked
for every two years  - im in la california)  this is a good way to overheat
it and 
start a fire if there is anything combustible around the cat.
Matt Smith
masmith089@qnet.com
Mailer Eudora 1.4.4


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec  2 23:24:02 1995
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At 11:41 AM 12/1/95 EST, you wrote:
>
>Other comments about high-voltage safety are always welcome.
>
>Marll McDonald   KB1AGM
>m_mcdonald@marx.enet.dec.com
> 
 - don't just  think about yourself, you've got time and $$$ in the efi
system as well

a buddy of mine had his entire electronic dashboard killed ($2200) in his
280Z when a
mechanic left a high tension wire ( that WAS connected to the engine at both
ends)
lying across a wiring harness that went  to the panel computer..

fortunately, his lawyer came through....

Matt Smith
masmith089@qnet.com
Mailer Eudora 1.4.4


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec  2 23:24:04 1995
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>\/ Darrell A. Norquay                   Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca
/\  wrote:

> These pen size high
>voltage detectors consist simply of a standard NE2 type neon light bulb.
>One lead of the bulb is grounded (or tied through the metal case to your
>body, which acts as an antenna).  The presence of high voltage nearby is 
>enough to ionize the neon in the bulb and light it up... so why not 
>optically couple a phototransistor to a standard neon bulb by heat-
>shrinking the two together, and, voila, instant pickup. 
>--
>
There used to be an old (i still have one somewhere) Neon timing light that was
wired using HV ign. cable in series with the spark plug.  It put out a dim
red flash
that was fast enough to "stop" a timing mark but you couldn't see it unless
you worked
with the hood down at midnight with no moon during a power failure.  (and
any leaks would
shock the living daylights out of you....... :-0   )
bottom line - this would indicate that response time would be sufficient  -
ie fast enough.

lurker and occasional contributor.
( i am a rocket engine sensor physicist.  a rocket engine is basically two
large fuel injectors
and a nozzle.
85 Ford ltd 3.8 ltr cfi, 89 festiva with oldfangled carb 

Matt Smith
masmith089@qnet.com
Mailer Eudora 1.4.4


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Dec  3 16:32:28 1995
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Date: Sat, 2 Dec 1995 09:59:08 GMT
From: Clint Sharp <clint@clintsmc.demon.co.uk>
Message-Id: <459@clintsmc.demon.co.uk>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Re: Propane Motor Fuel Injection
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In your message dated Thursday 30, November 1995 you wrote :

>  Here in Arkansas, unleaded regular runs about 97 cents per gallon.
> Propane runs $1.50.  Diesel runs around a dollar per gallon.
> 
>  Regardless of any inherent advantages of gaseous vs liquid fuels, Otto
> or Diesel cycles, the major player continues to be the tax burden on the
> fuel.  More than half the pump price of gasoline is tax.
Don't upset me any more guys, I'm weeping into my coffee as it is.
Here in the UK we pay almost 3 pounds for a gallon of leaded (2.88 at my
local station) 97 cents for a gallon is the stuff that dreams are made of.
I have considered propane a couple of times, can it produce usable power
on a small 4 cylinder engine?
-- 
We apologise for the lack of coherent humorous comments.
 Normal service will be resumed shortly.
                       clint@clintsmc.demon.co.uk


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Dec  3 21:35:26 1995
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Subject: Re: Propane Motor Fuel Injection
To: diy_efi
Date: Sun, 3 Dec 95 14:06:03 MDT
From: dn <dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
Cc: allnight@everett.net
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> hehe, that's the best thing about propane. In the Seattle area unleaded
> regular is about $1.05 to $1.15, Propane at the pump (road tax applied)

Up  here  in  the  Great White North, unleaded premium is $CDN2.40 per
gallon, (and Alberta has the cheapest gas in Canada!),  while  propane
at the  pump  is just over a dollar.  Mind you, our gallon is a little
bigger and our dollar is a little smaller...

> fuel it's only $.75 per gal, delivered now, pay later. I have a hose on my
> tank for filling... uh .. er.. my tractor, ya that's it, my tractor.
 
I like your attitude...

> I have been experimenting with trying to get the stuff to stay in a liquid
> state all the way to the injector, off and on, for quite a while now. I
> could never quite get the line pressure to be stable enough under varying
> throttle conditions. Part of the trouble was I was not able to get the right
> injectors. I am thinking now that I can just pump up the tank with nitrogen
> to boost the tank pressure to about 300-400psi or so, regulate it  through a
> liquid type high pressure regulator to get the line pressure stablized at
> about 150psi or so, go with the high pressure injectors you guy have
> mentioned here, sized as tiny as possible so that I can get fairly good
> metering at idle.

I  don't  think  pressurizing  the  tank  with  nitrogen  will get you
anywhere, the pressure will still decrease rapidly as the  propane  is
used up and the fuel volume in the tank decreases.  Also, the standard
filling  equipment  probably  won't  be  able to push fuel in at  that
pressure, (you wouldn't be able to fill your, uhh,  tractor  off  the
tank anymore)  and  the propane system tank, lines, valves, etc.   are
only rated at 250PSI test...

I  been  doin some thinkin on this over the past couple of days, and I
think we may be approaching the problem bass  ackwards...    With  the
standard EFI system, the fuel pressure is regulated in order  to  make
injector on-time  calculations  easier.   Since the injector is really
just an orifice, the  pressure  needs  to  be  constant  in  order  to
maintain a predictable flow across the orifice.  Most EFI systems have
the  fuel  pressure regulator tied into manifold pressure, so that the
fuel  pressure  remains  at  a  set  amount  above  manifold  pressure
regardless of throttle opening.  All this is done so that the computer
doesn't  need to dink with flow metering or additional calculations to
come up with injector pulse width.  

Now,  if  we  were to plumb the injector directly onto the liquid line
from the tank, and put a pressure transducer on the fuel line so's  we
would  know  the  fuel  pressure  at all times, we could theoretically
compensate the injector pulse width to give the right  fuel  flow  for
the instantaneous  line  pressure  that we have... voila - no need for
messy regulators, nitrogen, or any complicated mechanical stuff. Since
(last time I checked, anyway) propane follows the laws of physics wrt
flow  across  orifices,  it  should  be  relatively simple to have the
computer compensate for existing pressure.  Whaddya think? Am I out to
lunch, or did I stumble onto something here...

Still have the problem of where to find the proper  injector  for  the
system, though.    Stock injectors are all made to run at 20-50 PSI, I
think liquid propane would blow it up real good...  Might have to have
2 injectors, a tiny one for idle/cruise, and a big nasty one for  WOT.
The system I have in mind would be a TBI type system, I'm not sure you
could do this with a port injection system unless you had a really big
engine...

dn


--
\/<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<</\
\/ Darrell A. Norquay                   Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca      /\
\/ Datalog Technology Inc.              Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell /\
\/ Calgary, Alberta, Canada             Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220             /\
\/                                      Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872             /\
\/    @ +                                                                    /\
\/     <                                                                     /\
\/    __/     "Ain't no substitute for clock speed or compression ratio"     /\
\/>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>/\


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>> I have been experimenting with trying to get the stuff to stay in a liquid
>> state all the way to the injector, off and on, for quite a while now. I
>> could never quite get the line pressure to be stable enough under varying
>> throttle conditions. Part of the trouble was I was not able to get the right
>> injectors. I am thinking now that I can just pump up the tank with nitrogen
>> to boost the tank pressure to about 300-400psi or so, regulate it
through >>a
>> liquid type high pressure regulator to get the line pressure stablized at
>> about 150psi or so, go with the high pressure injectors you guy have
>> mentioned here, sized as tiny as possible so that I can get fairly good
>> metering at idle.

>I  don't  think  pressurizing  the  tank  with  nitrogen  will get you
>anywhere, the pressure will still decrease rapidly as the  propane  is
>used up and the fuel volume in the tank decreases.  Also, the standard
>filling  equipment  probably  won't  be  able to push fuel in at  that
>pressure, (you wouldn't be able to fill your, uhh,  tractor  off  the
>tank anymore)  and  the propane system tank, lines, valves, etc.   are
>only rated at 250PSI test...

I meant use a tiny little nitrogen bottle with a regulator that feed into
the propane tank while in use. When refilling the propane tank, the nitrogen
is disconnected. Of course you couldn't use a standard propane tank for
this, but I didn't think that was that big of a deal.

>I  been  doin some thinkin on this over the past couple of days, and I
>think we may be approaching the problem bass  ackwards...    With  the
>standard EFI system, the fuel pressure is regulated in order  to  make
>injector on-time  calculations  easier.   Since the injector is really
>just an orifice, the  pressure  needs  to  be  constant  in  order  to
>maintain a predictable flow across the orifice.  Most EFI systems have
>the  fuel  pressure regulator tied into manifold pressure, so that the
>fuel  pressure  remains  at  a  set  amount  above  manifold  pressure
>regardless of throttle opening.  All this is done so that the computer
>doesn't  need to dink with flow metering or additional calculations to
>come up with injector pulse width.
>
>Now,  if  we  were to plumb the injector directly onto the liquid line
>from the tank, and put a pressure transducer on the fuel line so's  we
>would  know  the  fuel  pressure  at all times, we could theoretically
>compensate the injector pulse width to give the right  fuel  flow  for
>the instantaneous  line  pressure  that we have... voila - no need for
>messy regulators, nitrogen, or any complicated mechanical stuff. Since
>(last time I checked, anyway) propane follows the laws of physics wrt
>flow  across  orifices,  it  should  be  relatively simple to have the
>computer compensate for existing pressure.  Whaddya think? Am I out >to
lunch, or did I stumble onto something here...

I like it. By far the simplest way to go, and it would seem to be the most
accurate in that you aren't required to meet a certain pressure all of the
time but instead just compensate for what it may be.

>Still have the problem of where to find the proper  injector  for  the
>system, though.    Stock injectors are all made to run at 20-50 PSI, I
>think liquid propane would blow it up real good...  Might have to have
>2 injectors, a tiny one for idle/cruise, and a big nasty one for  WOT.
>The system I have in mind would be a TBI type system, I'm not sure you
>could do this with a port injection system unless you had a really big
>engine...

We could go to staged injectors if we had to, but as long as the line
pressure stayed within a fairly narrow range I don't see why we would have
to do staging anymore than you would have to with gas. The key is the
injector itself. Getting one that will handle the line pressure and also
getting one that is small enough to supply just enough fuel at full power.

Granted, I am sure we will see a drop in line pressure at WOT, but If the
lines were sized properly, and the fuel rails (if we used fuel rails) were
large, acting as a fuel manifold, I would think we could get pretty close on
getting the pressure at the nozzel to equal the pressure at the bottle. Then
as long as our transducer was at the fuel rail, we should be able to
compensate accurately enough.

Great idea!

I have been digging all of the hardware I have out from the last time I
kicked this idea around. I still have to follow up on trying to find the
correct nozzels though.

-j-


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From: robert dingli <r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Message-Id: <199512040128.MAA11235@mullian.ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: Propane Motor Fuel Injection
To: diy_efi
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 12:28:15 +1100 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <951130070205_61588787@mail04.mail.aol.com> from "LotusM50@aol.com" at Nov 30, 95 07:02:06 am
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Hi everyone,

Bonn Macy and others have questioned the use of propane and CNG,
> 
> Speaking of CNG and propane systems, could anyone give me a quick rundown on
> what is involved with a CNG injection (or carburetor) system in a car
> compared with a gasoline system?  I would also be interested in any energy
> efficency and economic issues invovled with CNG relative to gasoline.
> 
> Would a CNG system designed from a clean sheet of paper be different than a
> CNG conversion system?  What advantages would there be?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> -Bonn Macy
> 

CNG has several major advantages over petrol and some major disadvantages.
Its main disadvantages are mainly due to being stored as a gas, leading to
large, heavy, high pressure tanks and limited range.  Distribution (at 
least at high pressures) is also an issue and from what some of our research
has uncovered, gas composition can be a problem.

CNG is anywhere from 80 - 95% methane which has an octane rating of 130.
To combat the limited range, much work has been done to increase the 
efficiency of the available fuel usage.  Research in our labs at Uni has 
focussed on high turbulence (for better mixing) and high compression 
designs.  The compression ratio of the base engine has been raised from
9:1 to nearly 16:1 and has been extensively tested in a taxi fleet.  The
peak thermodynamic engine efficiency has been raised from around 32% to
over 40%.  In one of our applications which operated at a more
representative partial load condition, we attained near 50% increase in
efficiency over the standard engine.  The current system uses special
injectors in place of the standard units, the original fuel rail and
the original OEM computer recalibrated.

Locally available LPG (used in a significant portion of the Australian
car and truck fleet including all taxis) is roughly a 50/50 mix of propane
and butane and has an octane rating just under 100.

LPG injection is being trial by a South Australian company called Biocom.
Their system uses modified Bosch injectors to allow the LPG to be fed to
the base of the injector, while the petrol travels through its normal
path.  They use an efi pump immersed in the tank so that they can
recirculate the LPG.  There are many problems with the design, but
they appear to have sufficient funding to continue research and trials.

Robert Dingli
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
             Robert Dingli           r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Power and Control Systems                 Thermodynamics Research Lab
Electrical Engineering                    Mechanical Engineering
   (+613) 9344 7966                          (+613) 9344 6728
  University of Melbourne, Parkville, 3052, Victoria, AUSTRALIA
----------------------------------------------------------------------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Dec  4 05:13:11 1995
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Propane Motor Fuel Injection
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Pressurizing the tank with nitrogen would be an effective tactic as long as
the propane in the tank was liquid and the pickup was below the liquid level.
 A baffled tank would help this quite a bit if obtainable.  Using the
nitrogen to maintain a high constant pressure would increase the likelyhood
of having liquid at the pickup.  Venting the nitrogen prior to filling would
remove the filling problem, although it would be worth calculating the volume
of unburned hydrocarbons you would be putting into the atmosphere, this would
be traded off against the garbage you didn't put into the air by burning
gasoline.

I don't have any experience with, but have read about the N2O guys using
pulsed solenoids to ramp up the flow rate to soften the initial hit.  You
might look at the stuff they are using as far as solenoids and distribution
systems.  It may be possible to build a TBI system with their stuff.  

The computer compensation for pressure scheme sounds good.  You could use a
regulator to cut down on some of the dynamic range.

For real power or efficiency with propane, the compression needs to be
increased.

Good Luck.

SBrady

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Dec  4 05:45:54 1995
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At 04:57 PM 12/2/95 -0600, you wrote:
>Come on, what is all this whining about a simple little "jolt" every now 
>and then!  Why not be a man and just take it! 
>__________________________________________________
>
>David M. Patrick                   KSU Formula SAE
>
the last time i got one of your   "little" jolts, i was knocked 6 feet and
it took my heartbeat
about 30 seconds to stabilize again - even now i have occasional racing
heartbeat for
no apparent reason and im only 38 (was about 24 when was looking for a loose
plug 
wire on a running 73 dodge polara electronic ign. with a miss.  one hand on
the plug
wire and the other  on the fender  = straight thru the chest.   -)

DONT TAKE THIS STUFF LIGHTLY.
>  I also believe that vice 
>grips and duct tape can fix anything!

i find that a rolled up handerchief, making a piece of "rope" about a foot long
can be safely used to handle a loose wire.  BUT PUT YOUR OTHER HAND
IN YOUR BACK POCKET AND KEEP IT THERE! (standard electricians trick
for live wiring....)
p.s. it was number 3 cylinder.).  
Matt Smith
masmith089@qnet.com
Mailer Eudora 1.5.2


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Dec  4 10:08:32 1995
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Doug,
      Please answer the following questions and I will see if I can help.
      (a)What size venturis do you have in your 48 Webers ?
      (b)Have you established that the ignition timing is correct (ie. the
same          as with Webers.)?
      (c)Following on from (b) have you tried different timing.
      (d)Please advise power for each 500 rpm for carb and injection.
      (e)Have you flowed the injectors to make sure they have the same flow?

The 7 mm difference in length will not cause the problem you are experiencing.

                regards,

                Mark Boxsell
                MRB Design
                Sydney  Australia
 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Dec  4 18:31:18 1995
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From: Johnny <allnight@everett.net>
Subject: Re: Propane Motor Fuel Injection
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At 12:03 AM 12/4/95 -0500, you wrote:
>Pressurizing the tank with nitrogen would be an effective tactic as long as
>the propane in the tank was liquid and the pickup was below the liquid level.
> A baffled tank would help this quite a bit if obtainable.  Using the
>nitrogen to maintain a high constant pressure would increase the likelyhood
>of having liquid at the pickup.  Venting the nitrogen prior to filling would
>remove the filling problem, although it would be worth calculating the volume
>of unburned hydrocarbons you would be putting into the atmosphere, this would
>be traded off against the garbage you didn't put into the air by burning
>gasoline.

This has crossed my mind. I thought of running 2 tanks in the vehicle. Run
one all the way down till all there is, is nitrogen. Then switch to the
other one, and fill the empty one up. It would seem that the nitrogen
pressure over the propane would keep it in a liquid state all the way to the
end allowing you to effectivly run it all the way out. Then when you purged
the tank for filling, all you would get out is nitrogen... maybe a trace of
propane, but not enough to worry about. The tank would have to be made
special (I do these myself) and it would have a little baffling and a sump
just like any liquid fuel tank does. The pickup would be at the bottom of
the sump of course. The nitrogen would probably come from a 3000 psi scuba
bottle, regulated to 300 psi or so. Would have to see what it cost for the
nitrogen, but it would seem that it wouldn't add up to that much.

>I don't have any experience with, but have read about the N2O guys using
>pulsed solenoids to ramp up the flow rate to soften the initial hit.  You
>might look at the stuff they are using as far as solenoids and distribution
>systems.  It may be possible to build a TBI system with their stuff.  
>
>The computer compensation for pressure scheme sounds good.  You could use a
>regulator to cut down on some of the dynamic range.

I think it will take both a pressure head (like the N) and a liquid
regulator (set to about 150psi or so) to get it to be stable enough. Then
with the computer compensating for the small fluctuations that still exist,
I think it is do-able.

>For real power or efficiency with propane, the compression needs to be
>increased.

That's for sure. I have a set of 12.5:1's sitting right here. I guess I
should start building the prototype engine and by the time I get done with
the heavy stuff, the rest of you guys will have the '332 stuff just about
ready for me to come and vulture on.

-j-


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Dec  4 20:31:19 1995
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From: Doug Robson <doug@cia.com.au>
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Mark,
in answer
a	42mm and 40 have been used with similiar top end power

b + c	Yes 12 static 32 full( For both FI and Carb).
	On dyno we tried 25-38 on injection 
	and got power loss both times

d	dont have the exacy numbers here at work but were like this

	Carb Kw		FI Kw
4000	55		40	
5000	70		50
6000	88		60
7000	93		70
8000	95		70

e	Yes but having a different person do it today again

Thanks

	
-- 
Doug Robson	Sydney 	Australia	
-------------------------------------------------------------
doug@cia.com.au				| Thank God for	
					|     
Club Car Racing Register of NSW		|    Gravity
1992/93 Under 2 litre State Champion	|
-------------------------------------------------------------

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec  5 01:33:37 1995
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Subject: Re: Propane Motor Fuel Injection
To: diy_efi
Date: Mon, 4 Dec 95 17:37:44 MDT
From: dn <dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
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Yo Johnny...

> the sump of course. The nitrogen would probably come from a 3000 psi scuba
> bottle, regulated to 300 psi or so. Would have to see what it cost for the

What if you just regulated the nitrogen to, say, 200 PSI at the bottle
and fed it into a vapor outlet on the standard  propane  tank.    This
should  keep  the  pressure  in the tank at a fairly constant 200 PSI,
which is within system limits, regardless of what the  vapor  pressure
of the propane happens to be at that temperature...

> I think it will take both a pressure head (like the N) and a liquid
> regulator (set to about 150psi or so) to get it to be stable enough. Then
> with the computer compensating for the small fluctuations that still exist,
> I think it is do-able.

In spite of what I  said  above,  I'm  still  not  convinced  on  this
nitrogen thing.  I'd like to make this a commercial  system,  sell  it
and  make  millions, but I'm not sure that average consumer would want
to deal with having extra nitrogen tanks et al stuffed into his  daily
driver,  nor bear the added expense of custom pressure tanks, nitrogen
refills, etc.  I, for one, would not want to have to deal with this on
a daily basis for the rest of my vehicle's natural life.

Having  said  that,  this would definitely work for the prototype, and
allow you to concentrate on the computer end of things for the initial
unit.  A commercial system would probably have to use some kind  of  a
pump  system  to  raise the fuel pressure above what would normally be
encountered for a reasonable range of ambient temperatures.  You could
use a pump with excess flow capability above what  the  engine  needs,
and a pressure relief bypass back to the tank (similar to a hydraulic 
system)  which  would inherently give a semi-regulated pressure to the
injector  fuel  rail  (this  is essentially what a gasoline EFI system
does now, the only difference would be the pressures involved).    The
computer could then deal with the rest.

dn

--
\/<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<</\
\/ Darrell A. Norquay                   Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca      /\
\/ Datalog Technology Inc.              Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell /\
\/ Calgary, Alberta, Canada             Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220             /\
\/                                      Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872             /\
\/    @ +                                                                    /\
\/     <                                                                     /\
\/    __/     "Ain't no substitute for clock speed or compression ratio"     /\
\/>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>/\


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>To: dn <dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
>From: jwharris@holli.com (J.W. Harris)
>Subject: Re: DIY_EFI abilities and older engines
>
>
>>and I think I've found a better unit than the stock HEI module, which fits 
into  
>>the stock HEI distributor (I think...).  It has a total of seven interface
>>terminals, including a spark reference output and input which should be easy
>>to interface to.  Problem is, none of the aftermarket parts catalogs that I
>>have have ANY technical info on the module itself (ie voltages, currents, 
etc.)
>
>As far as I know, there are 3 different types of HEI modules:
>
>The original 1975- ~80 "4 terminal" module.  Ground is thourgh the bolt 
holes and the other terminals are for: battery, coil-, and pickup +/-.  This 
is what I am currently using.
>
>The 5 terminal module. I think this one was used on trucks with ESC the 
extra pin is "delay". Not sure how it works.
>
>The 1981- end of distributor 7 terminal module.  This one has the terminals 
of the 4 term module and three others:  refrence: amplified pickup signal 
output.
>est: input signal from the ECM to fire the coil.  
>bypass: input used to select refrence if the est signal is bad or the 4 
wire connector to the ECM is dicconnected (To set timing).
>
>I think these are 5 volt signals but I'll have to check.  The levels are 
set to allow the ECM to detect an open, or short to battery/ground, then 
bypass mode will be used and the engine will be on base (~10deg.) timing 
Incidentally the direct fire systems have a similar interface.  
>
>I have the schematics for these modules, but of course I cant give them out.
>Looking at the signals with a scope on any '80's car so equipped would be 
educational and you would see what the voltage levels look like.
>>
>>Why dual?  One for the Wife?
>
>I needed 4 lines. Data is displayed like this:
>
>$aaaa: dd
>(bargraph here)
>
>a: address
>d: currnet value
>
>the s/w allows as many displays as wanted to be added using the same 
subrouintes. (until you fill the memory map)
>>
>>> The frist cut alogrithim will generate spark advance from RPM and MAP
>>> 
>>
>>Assuming you don't have access to a dynamometer, how would you generate a
>>spark timing table?  Also, would there be any advantage to using a MAF
>>sensor instead of MAP?  
>
>1.
>Using an advance timing light and the existing setup.
>
>Dinsconnect the vacuum advance.
>measure the timing advance at every 500 rpm or so.
>connect a vacuum pump and guage to the advacne.
>at idle (known advance) record the advance vs inches of Hg.
>enter these values into the spark advance table as a first cut.
>tweak as necessary (yes I know this could take a while.)
>
>2. 
>I don't know if anyone does it this way but I don't intend to use the 
complicated (expensive) and annoying to plumb MAF sensor.  Mabye there would 
be some value in experimenting with it.
>
>
>JW
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
J.W. Harris                                          Delco Electronics Corp.
Project Engineer                                     One Corporate Center
Powertrain Electronics                               M.S. CT40C
                                                     Kokomo, IN 46904-9005
jwharris@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com

Of course, all responses are my own and should not be mistaken for those of
Delco Electronics or General Motors.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec  6 04:09:22 1995
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From: jwharris@holli.com (J.W. Harris)
Subject: Re: EST Systems
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>To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
>From: jwharris@holli.com (J.W. Harris)
>Subject: Re: EST Systems
>Cc: 
>Bcc: 
>X-Attachments: 
>
>>To: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
>>From: jwharris@holli.com (J.W. Harris)
>>Subject: Re: EST Systems
>>
>>
>>>>         Dual LCD displays
>>>
>>>    Dual? Where does the second one go?
>>
>>One 16X2 display for each parameter displayed.
>>Line 1: address and hex value.
>>line 2: bargraph.
>>>
>>>    My original idea was to use a GM EST distributor (ones with the 
>>>locked rotor) and dump in a normal 4 wire module.   Set the physical 
>>>timing really retarded, then just delay the impulse from the pickup to 
>>>the module.   Once I get this so the engine will run ok, then I'll add in 
>>>a MAP sensor to compensate for load.
>>>
>>>   Am I way off, or am I at least close?
>>
>>Although some software I've looked at uses a refrence angle which is 
subtracted? out I don't think this is the way to go with a distributor.  Set 
the EST (no advance) distributor up for about 10 - 15 deg. advance like 
normal.  Each EST pulse received will be a refrence for the next cylinder in 
the firing order.  The S/W basically works like this:
>>
>>Each EST interrupt measure the refrence period (time of this EST pulse - 
time of last)
>>
>>Add this to the time of this pulse to predict when the next one will occur 
(this assumes constant engine speed which is approximately correct.  As a 
second cut measure the acceleration which requires comparing this refrence 
period with the last.)
>>
>>We will use an 8 cyl. example.  So each refrence pulse represents 90 deg. 
of crankshaft rotation.  From some algorithim you know how much advance you 
want (another topic) subtract   refperiod *(advance / 90) (fractional time 
part of a refrence period) from the estimated fall time above to determine 
the time to fire the coil (turn it off or make EST go low).  From this 
subtract the dwell time (I haven't got any numbers yet) to determine the 
risetime of EST.  I'm not sure but some modules might limit dwell time 
internally.
>>
>>Of course you need to do the math correctly and might be able to figure 
out how to store the timing map in a way to avoid the division limit minimum 
dwell time, burn time etc.
>>
>>
>>>
>>>   The other reason I like this is that it could easily be fitted to my 
>>>beater/daily driver '83 Olds 307 for testing purposes.   Also since this 
>>>thing could really use some work on the spark map as it is...
>>
>>Retrofits on GMs are really easy just make sure if you are converting a 
points dist. to electronic that you bypass the resistance wire to ignition.
>>
>>>    Since you work for Delco, can you tell me anything about how the EST 
>>>system works on my '83?  I've got the manuals and diagrams, but I'm still 
>>
>>It's difficult to know how every car works but the description above 
should get most efi hackers started on their own.  All the systems work 
bascially the same.  Some Fords (late 80s SEFI) use a distributor pickup 
that produces one ref pulse of a different width so the ECM can tell 
absolute engine position. THe HC11s timer section makes it really easy to 
measure ref pulses and generate EST ones.  I guess thats why we had it built 
that way :).
>>
>>Later,
>>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
J.W. Harris                                          Delco Electronics Corp.
Project Engineer                                     One Corporate Center
Powertrain Electronics                               M.S. CT40C
                                                     Kokomo, IN 46904-9005
jwharris@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com

Of course, all responses are my own and should not be mistaken for those of
Delco Electronics or General Motors.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec  6 04:09:23 1995
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From: jwharris@holli.com (J.W. Harris)
Subject: Re: EST Systems
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>To: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
>From: jwharris@holli.com (J.W. Harris)
>Subject: Re: EST Systems
>
>
>>>         Dual LCD displays
>>
>>    Dual? Where does the second one go?
>
>One 16X2 display for each parameter displayed.
>Line 1: address and hex value.
>line 2: bargraph.
>>
>>    My original idea was to use a GM EST distributor (ones with the 
>>locked rotor) and dump in a normal 4 wire module.   Set the physical 
>>timing really retarded, then just delay the impulse from the pickup to 
>>the module.   Once I get this so the engine will run ok, then I'll add in 
>>a MAP sensor to compensate for load.
>>
>>   Am I way off, or am I at least close?
>
>Although some software I've looked at uses a refrence angle which is 
subtracted? out I don't think this is the way to go with a distributor.  Set 
the EST (no advance) distributor up for about 10 - 15 deg. advance like 
normal.  Each EST pulse received will be a refrence for the next cylinder in 
the firing order.  The S/W basically works like this:
>
>Each EST interrupt measure the refrence period (time of this EST pulse - 
time of last)
>
>Add this to the time of this pulse to predict when the next one will occur 
(this assumes constant engine speed which is approximately correct.  As a 
second cut measure the acceleration which requires comparing this refrence 
period with the last.)
>
>We will use an 8 cyl. example.  So each refrence pulse represents 90 deg. 
of crankshaft rotation.  From some algorithim you know how much advance you 
want (another topic) subtract   refperiod *(advance / 90) (fractional time 
part of a refrence period) from the estimated fall time above to determine 
the time to fire the coil (turn it off or make EST go low).  From this 
subtract the dwell time (I haven't got any numbers yet) to determine the 
risetime of EST.  I'm not sure but some modules might limit dwell time 
internally.
>
>Of course you need to do the math correctly and might be able to figure out 
how to store the timing map in a way to avoid the division limit minimum 
dwell time, burn time etc.
>
>
>>
>>   The other reason I like this is that it could easily be fitted to my 
>>beater/daily driver '83 Olds 307 for testing purposes.   Also since this 
>>thing could really use some work on the spark map as it is...
>
>Retrofits on GMs are really easy just make sure if you are converting a 
points dist. to electronic that you bypass the resistance wire to ignition.
>
>>    Since you work for Delco, can you tell me anything about how the EST 
>>system works on my '83?  I've got the manuals and diagrams, but I'm still 
>
>It's difficult to know how every car works but the description above should 
get most efi hackers started on their own.  All the systems work bascially 
the same.  Some Fords (late 80s SEFI) use a distributor pickup that produces 
one ref pulse of a different width so the ECM can tell absolute engine 
position. THe HC11s timer section makes it really easy to measure ref pulses 
and generate EST ones.  I guess thats why we had it built that way :).
>
>Later,
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
J.W. Harris                                          Delco Electronics Corp.
Project Engineer                                     One Corporate Center
Powertrain Electronics                               M.S. CT40C
                                                     Kokomo, IN 46904-9005
jwharris@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com

Of course, all responses are my own and should not be mistaken for those of
Delco Electronics or General Motors.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec  6 04:09:29 1995
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To: diy_efi
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI abilities and older engines
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>To: eppu@cc.tut.fi
>From: jwharris@holli.com (J.W. Harris)
>Subject: Re: DIY_EFI abilities and older engines
>Cc: 
>Bcc: 
>X-Attachments: 
>
>What was the 4 wire connector
>>you are using, is it the one after the module (can't remember whether
>>it had three or four pins)? 
>
>This is the connector on '80s GM cars close to the dstributor the signals are
>ground, REF(rence), EST, and BYPASS.
>
>Do you want to distribute your code
>>etc. to others, I'd be very interested? 
>
>Hardware probably. Code, I'm not sure. Mabye the code in assembled form 
with addresses of the cal tables.  This is a ways off anyway.  Right now I'm 
concentrating on the scheduler, insturmentation and SCI routines.  Next I 
will write the interrupt handlers for the refrence pulse and EST channels.  
Finally I'll do the timing algorithim (2D lookup table).  Someday EFI will 
probably be added since it is a simple add on at least as far as hardware 
and timer code are concerned.  I have the digital core schematics done in 
OrCad format but don't have a way to scan them.  The interface board is not 
designed but should be pretty straightforeward. I'm in the process of 
building a vehicle intent copy of the hardware.
>
>Mabye Later I'll write up something on how the hardware works and post it 
when I get some time and get to a good stoping point in the code.
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
J.W. Harris                                          Delco Electronics Corp.
Project Engineer                                     One Corporate Center
Powertrain Electronics                               M.S. CT40C
                                                     Kokomo, IN 46904-9005
jwharris@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com

Of course, all responses are my own and should not be mistaken for those of
Delco Electronics or General Motors.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec  6 11:35:37 1995
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	(1.37.109.4/16.2) id AA20725; Wed, 6 Dec 95 06:27:34 -0500
From: Derrick Early <early@finite.nrl.navy.mil>
Subject: TiO2 and leaded fuel.
To: DIY_EFI (diy_efi)
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 95 6:27:34 "EST
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Hello efi'ers,

I was digging through the archives and discovered a reference to TiO2 sensors
for lambda control.  Do these things really work with leaded gas?  Does 
any one know of a vendor?

Thank you in advance.

Yours,
--
Derrick Early
early@finite.nrl.navy.mil

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec  6 12:34:27 1995
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From: "Robert Gallant"  <gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Fuel Pressure
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I'm sure this was discussed before but I couldn't find it.

As fuel pressure is increased, injection volume increases.

Is the increase linear with injection duration?

Example:  Say I increase fuel pressure some %.  At 1500 rpm, the injection 
volume would increase by some % (%IV@1500).  At 5000 rpm the injection volume 
would also increase some % (%IV@5000).

Does %IV@5000 ~= %IV@1500 or 
is   %IV@5000 > %IV@1500

Thanks

Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec  6 13:17:34 1995
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Date: Wed, 6 Dec 1995 08:10:29 -0500
From: c1icst1@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com (Charles S. Tosch)
Message-Id: <9512061310.AA11234@koptsy22.delcoelect.com>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Fuel Pressure
In-Reply-To: Mail from '"Robert Gallant"  <gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil>'
      dated: Wed, 6 Dec 95 07:24:01 EST
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>	Message 16:
>	From owner-diy_efi-outgoing@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu Wed Dec  6 08:00:03 1995
>	From: "Robert Gallant"  <gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
>	To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
>	Subject: Fuel Pressure
>	
>	I'm sure this was discussed before but I couldn't find it.
>	As fuel pressure is increased, injection volume increases.
>	Is the increase linear with injection duration?
>	
>	

As fuel pressure increases, the volume of flow increases as a function
of the square root of the ratio of the pressures.
Example: 

	 --------------			   -------
	 | new pressure			   | 60psi
	 | ------------  = vol increase =  | -----  = 1.22 times old flow
	\| old pressure			  \| 40psi

The volume delivered is linear with injection duration.

-- 
Chuck Tosch                     	c1icst1@kocvrs01.delcoelect.com
Delco Electronics			(317) 451-0869
Kokomo, IN 46904	     		8-322-0869  


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec  6 15:24:22 1995
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From: CHAN WEN YEN <chanwe@ecf.toronto.edu>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: fuel pressure and boiling
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I think that the pressure necessary to prevent fuel from boiling can be 
calculated aproximately using the following formula:

	ln(P) = -H/8.314 * (1/TO - 1/TB)

	P = minimum necessary pressure (in pascals)
	H = heat of vaporization of the fuel (joules per mole)
	TO = expected operating temperature
	TB = normal boiling point (in kelvin)

	8.314 is the gas constant

The formula assumes ideal gas behaviour and a constant H. A large FOS 
should probably be used.

 ^ ^
 O O
  ^
____/

l8tr  

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec  6 15:56:07 1995
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From: Derrick Early <early@finite.nrl.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pressure
To: diy_efi
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 95 10:45:37 "EST
In-Reply-To: <9512061310.AA11234@koptsy22.delcoelect.com>; from "Charles S. Tosch" at Dec 6, 95 8:10 am
Mailer: Elm [revision: 70.85]
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> >	I'm sure this was discussed before but I couldn't find it.
> >	As fuel pressure is increased, injection volume increases.
> >	Is the increase linear with injection duration?
> 
> As fuel pressure increases, the volume of flow increases as a function
> of the square root of the ratio of the pressures.
> Example: 
> 
> 	 --------------			   -------
> 	 | new pressure			   | 60psi
> 	 | ------------  = vol increase =  | -----  = 1.22 times old flow
> 	\| old pressure			  \| 40psi
> 
> The volume delivered is linear with injection duration.

What about choked flow?  Maybe an orifice area term is needed for 
really big changes in pressure.

Yours,
--
Derrick Early
early@finite.nrl.navy.mil

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec  6 17:50:44 1995
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Subject: Re: EST Systems
To: diy_efi
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 95 10:16:40 MDT
From: dn <dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
In-Reply-To: <m0tNB26-0009oZC@walnut.holli.com>; from "J.W. Harris" at Dec 5, 95 11:00 pm
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> >>>My original idea was to use a GM EST distributor (ones with the 
> >>>locked rotor) and dump in a normal 4 wire module.   Set the physical 
> >>>timing really retarded, then just delay the impulse from the pickup to 
> >>>the module.    

This is the way the old analog delay systems worked  where  you  could
adjust  your  timing from a dashboard control (Accel, MSD used systems
like this).  Problem was, if it broke, your timing  was  way  retarded
and the engine probably wouldn't even run, much less limp home.

> the time to fire the coil (turn it off or make EST go low).  From this 
> subtract the dwell time (I haven't got any numbers yet) to determine the 
> risetime of EST.  I'm not sure but some modules might limit dwell time 
> internally.

When  you  say  "limit  dwell  time  internally", do you mean that the
module automatically turns the coil on again at some fixed delay after
EST has been triggered, regardless of the current state of EST? I'd be
dissapointed if this was the case, since  I  had  planned  to  have  a
variable  dwell based on RPM to keep the power dissipation in the coil
to a minimum. (still referring to the standard GM 7 pin module)

One other question: is the Refernce output of the module just a signal
conditioned copy of the pulse from the pickup? The  reason  I  ask  is
that  I also wanted to use the method of having one wider tooth on the
reluctor to indicate cylinder 1, thus having a  reference  for  engine
position.   If  the  Reference  is  a straight one-shot pulse of fixed
width regardless of what pulse width the pickup  sees,  I'll  have  to
scrap  that  idea  and  use  some  other  method of determining engine
position.

Regards, dn



--
\/<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<</\
\/ Darrell A. Norquay                   Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca      /\
\/ Datalog Technology Inc.              Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell /\
\/ Calgary, Alberta, Canada             Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220             /\
\/                                      Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872             /\
\/    @ +                                                                    /\
\/     <                                                                     /\
\/    __/     "Ain't no substitute for clock speed or compression ratio"     /\
\/>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>/\


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec  6 21:15:38 1995
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Message-ID: <30C7112D.3EA0@cia.com.au>
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 1995 08:07:09 -0800
From: Doug Robson <doug@cia.com.au>
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HA sanyone been able to decode the serial output from an Autronic SMC 
serial line. It runs a realtime display on my laptop but i would like to 
trap it for data logging

-- 
Doug Robson	Sydney 	Australia	
-------------------------------------------------------------
doug@cia.com.au				| Thank God for	
					|     
Club Car Racing Register of NSW		|    Gravity
1992/93 Under 2 litre State Champion	|
-------------------------------------------------------------

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Dec  7 05:52:05 1995
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From: "Ty  A. Sayman" <102250.2156@compuserve.com>
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I am glad to have found this list.

Is there an archive of postings to this list? If so, how can I get it.

Also, what other groups are available on this subject and related topics?(ie.
Microcontrolling anything)



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Dec  7 06:07:39 1995
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From: dzorde@aesprodata.com.au
Subject: circuit cellar article
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     Great article in circuit cellar ink.

[I agree... well written... well organized... very inspiring. BTW,
I've updated my version of majordomo and hope to have the digest
mode available soon... jsg]


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Dec  7 12:50:34 1995
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From: rpratt@senet.com.au (Rodney Pratt)
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: More Inductive Pickup
Date: Thu, 07 Dec 1995 13:27:45 GMT
References: <199511301908.OAA17691@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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On Thu, 30 Nov 1995 14:08:51 EST, you wrote:

>I was told that an inductive pickup (from a timing light) will
>produce enough current to flash an LED.  I have not tried this yet,
>however, I am wondering if the pulse width from a spark is long
>enough to "see".  What is an "average" length of a spark?

I recently used an inductive pickup connected to a H11L1 schmitt
trigger opto-coupler which inturn triggered a 555 in monostable
one-shot configuration. This circuit produces a clean pulse, with the
pulse width determined by the 555 timer RC combo.

One thing to watch, be sure to provide a suitable sensitivity
adjustment on the opto LED current so you can set a trigger
threshold,or you will find you pickup stray firings from the other
cylinders.
Rodney Pratt
Computer Aided Test Engineer
Mitsubishi Motors Aust Ltd.         rpratt@senet.com.au


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Dec  7 15:13:41 1995
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From: Svein Lilleland <svein.lilleland@hytrol.telemax.no>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pressure
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>What about choked flow?  Maybe an orifice area term is needed for 
>really big changes in pressure.

>Derrick Early
>early@finite.nrl.navy.mil
>>really big changes in pressure.

Fluid flow through a nozzle is proportional to the area. An injector valve 
is, however, either open or closed, which implies that the nozzle area is 
not an adjustable parameter. With the response required for efi, do not 
contemplate a single proportional valve to control flow rate.

What might be possible is a proprtional device upstream of the injector 
valve. Varying the area of the proportional device, combined with a larger 
than required injector valve, could mean varying flow rate for a set time 
span. At high revs, when not much time is available,  increased effective 
nozzle area could provide the required increased flow rate. If this is 
economically feasible, I do not know. The idea just struck me as I was 
writing. Should probably have engaged the brain before the finger, but it 
sounds possible.

I started by stating that flow is proportional to nozzle area,  flow is 
proportional to the square root of pressure differential. Flow is further 
inversely proportional to the square root of fluid density, which is no big 
issue for fuel. Finally, flow is proportional to a discharge factor which 
typically is 0.62.

regards

svein.lilleland@hytrol.telemax.no

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Dec  7 21:28:57 1995
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From: ws6transam@voyager.net (Daniel R Burk)
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>     Great article in circuit cellar ink.
>
>[I agree... well written... well organized... very inspiring. BTW,
>I've updated my version of majordomo and hope to have the digest
>mode available soon... jsg]
>
>
>
Halleluiah.  I'm getting swamped with sometimes 99 messages in my box per day.
It's almost too much to really use.  I also agree with your assessment on
the CCi articles.  I ordered the back issues from Circuit Cellar, received them
in less than three days, and am digging into them now.

One quick question though, Ed:

        I don't understand your explaination of the fuel regulator in part 1.
You state that by plumbing the regulator to the intake manifold, as manifold
pressure rises, it biases the regulator in order to keep a steady 45 PSI.  

I always thought that by plumbing it to the intake manifold, you effectively
allow manifold pressure to effect change into the regulator pressure. So, in
effect, as engine loading increases, and manifold pressure increases, a corr-
esponding increase in fuel pressure results.  What's the deal?

---Dan.



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Dec  7 22:59:48 1995
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>From: ws6transam@voyager.net (Daniel R Burk)

>digest mode to be updated to the mailing list.

Thanks John. ;-)

>         I don't understand your explaination of the fuel regulator in part 1.
> You state that by plumbing the regulator to the intake manifold, as manifold
> pressure rises, it biases the regulator in order to keep a steady 45 PSI.  
> 
> I always thought that by plumbing it to the intake manifold, you effectively
> allow manifold pressure to effect change into the regulator pressure. So, in
> effect, as engine loading increases, and manifold pressure increases, a corr-
> esponding increase in fuel pressure results.  What's the deal?

Dan,

I think Ed  meant a "45 psi differential across the injector".

Tom

P.S. For any hsm's on the list: Steam and Sterling Engines II had
a good article on Propane pressure regulator. [Same publisher
as Home Shop Machinist. ]

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  8 00:51:46 1995
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ws6transam@voyager.net (Daniel R Burk) Wrote:
| One quick question though, Ed:
| 
|         I don't understand your explaination of the fuel regulator in 
part 1.
| You state that by plumbing the regulator to the intake manifold, as 
manifold
| pressure rises, it biases the regulator in order to keep a steady 45 PSI. 
 
| 
| I always thought that by plumbing it to the intake manifold, you 
effectively
| allow manifold pressure to effect change into the regulator pressure. So, 
in
| effect, as engine loading increases, and manifold pressure increases, a 
corr-
| esponding increase in fuel pressure results.  What's the deal?
| 
| ---Dan.

The pressure across the injector varies with vacuum.  Remember that the end 
of it may be seeing atmospheric pressure (WOT) or a vacuum (idle).  A 
regulator will hold fuel pressure at 45 psi, but the vacuum on the injector 
end varies from 0 to 8 psi or so.  A regulator that is plumbed to the 
intake will maintain 45 psi across the injector regardless of the vacuum in 
the intake.  You can also take vacuum into account in software by modifying 
the injector pulse, but the regulator makes things a lot easier.

Steve Ravet
sravet@bangate.compaq.com
Baby you're a genius when it comes to cooking up some chili sauce...

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  8 03:37:20 1995
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>When  you  say  "limit  dwell  time  internally", do you mean that the
>module automatically turns the coil on again at some fixed delay after
>EST has been triggered, regardless of the current state of EST? I'd be
>dissapointed if this was the case, since  I  had  planned  to  have  a
>variable  dwell based on RPM to keep the power dissipation in the coil
>to a minimum. (still referring to the standard GM 7 pin module)

I think I saw somewhere that some modules will limit dwell if it exceeds a 
maximum value.  It might just limit current or both.  I'm not sure.

>
>One other question: is the Refernce output of the module just a signal
>conditioned copy of the pulse from the pickup? The  reason  I  ask  is
>that  I also wanted to use the method of having one wider tooth on the
>reluctor to indicate cylinder 1, thus having a  reference  for  engine
>position.   If  the  Reference  is  a straight one-shot pulse of fixed
>width regardless of what pulse width the pickup  sees,  I'll  have  to
>scrap  that  idea  and  use  some  other  method of determining engine
>position.

I don't know what kind of signal conditioning is done, if any.  It probably 
works like a comparator with hysteresis.  However, I don't think making one 
tooth wider with a VR sensor will work.  It would be impossible to measure 
the resulting waveform with enough accuracy to distinguish that tooth.  A 
better solution is to add an extra tooth and have S/W recognize when it is 
passed.  Or use a wheel with many teeth and detect one that is missing.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
J.W. Harris                                          Delco Electronics Corp.
Project Engineer                                     One Corporate Center
Powertrain Electronics                               M.S. CT40C
                                                     Kokomo, IN 46904-9005
jwharris@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com

Of course, all responses are my own and should not be mistaken for those of
Delco Electronics or General Motors.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  8 04:59:12 1995
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In a message dated 95-12-07 18:40:02 EST, you write:

>>         I don't understand your explaination of the fuel regulator in part
>1.
>> You state that by plumbing the regulator to the intake manifold, as
>manifold
>> pressure rises, it biases the regulator in order to keep a steady 45 PSI.
 
>> 
>> I always thought that by plumbing it to the intake manifold, you
>effectively allow manifold pressure to effect change into the regulator
pressure. So,
>in effect, as engine loading increases, and manifold pressure increases, a
>corresponding increase in fuel pressure results.  What's the deal?
>
>
As long as we are speaking for Ed, I really liked the CCI articles.  They
provided a proffesional approach to hardware & software development for a
motorcycle racer with a BSME(me), and I don't think I was the target
audience.

I was supprised at Eds choice of a speed denisty system for a motorcycle
engine.  Motorcycles almost always use independent runner intake systems (one
throttle bore and carb venturi per cylinder).  If you've ever tried to
synchronize one of these systems, it is obvious that manifold pressure varies
so much as a function of crank position that I would think that it would be
useless as an indicator of engine load or cylinder filling.  I also don't see
how the fuel pressure regulator could have the frequency response to track
these manifold pressure variations.  This is less severe at full throttle,
but still present.

It would seem to me that an N-alpha system would be more applicable.

It would be possible to provide some averaging of the manifold pressurer by
using a long tube between the sensor and the manifold or manifolding the
sensor to all the cylinders. This discussion dosn't apply if Ed used
independent injectors and a single throttle point.

The article also indicated the motor was good for 70 hp. I hope this was the
stock figure, or it was downgraded to fool the competition.  Otherwise all
that was gained with FI was ease of tuning.

Once again, I really got alot out of the articles, but I'm curious about some
of the choices that were made on the mechanical side of things.

SBrady



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  8 06:02:19 1995
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From: robert dingli <r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Message-Id: <199512080553.QAA03046@mullian.ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: EST Systems
To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 1995 16:53:54 +1100 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <m0tNtQM-0009iaC@walnut.holli.com> from "J.W. Harris" at Dec 7, 95 10:24:00 pm
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On the subject of dwell control..

> >When  you  say  "limit  dwell  time  internally", do you mean that the
> >module automatically turns the coil on again at some fixed delay after
> >EST has been triggered, regardless of the current state of EST? I'd be
> >dissapointed if this was the case, since  I  had  planned  to  have  a
> >variable  dwell based on RPM to keep the power dissipation in the coil
> >to a minimum. (still referring to the standard GM 7 pin module)
> 

J.W. Harris replied,

> I think I saw somewhere that some modules will limit dwell if it exceeds a 
> maximum value.  It might just limit current or both.  I'm not sure.
> 

There are ign controller chips available which do both the current limiting
and dwell control functions.  For example, the MC3334, will accept an 
input from a reluctor pickup and automatically determine when to commence
coil charging.  When a pre-set primary current is reached, the current
is maintained until firing.  The chip adds a small amount of extra charge
time to allow for engine acceleration and also has a minimum discharge
time in the order of one millisecond to allow the spark to ignite the 
mixture.

The individual Bosch ign amps also have a dwell control and minimum
discharge feature.  From memory, they will accept a digital input but 
will commence charging sooner than instructed if the input is of too 
short a duration.

Ideally, the charge time would be constant in the time domain since the
coil charging characteristics don't vary with engine speed.  The charge
time would be chosen so that the desired current limit would be reached
just before firing.  Since the charging must commence before we know 
when to fire the plug, we also have to add some extra time so that the 
coil is fully charged in the worst case of rapid engine acceleration.

I personally use a fixed charge time in the range 1-5 mS with a minimum
discharge time of 1 mS.  Modern, low impedance epoxy filled coils can
be charged very quickly, but tend to destroy themselves if the 
secondaries are left open circuit or if proper current limiting isn't
used.

regards,

Robert Dingli

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
             Robert Dingli           r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Power and Control Systems                 Thermodynamics Research Lab
Electrical Engineering                    Mechanical Engineering
   (+613) 9344 7966                          (+613) 9344 6728
  University of Melbourne, Parkville, 3052, Victoria, AUSTRALIA
----------------------------------------------------------------------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  8 06:16:47 1995
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From: robert dingli <r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU>
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Subject: Motorcycle speed density systems
To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 1995 17:11:06 +1100 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <951207215737_66988546@emout06.mail.aol.com> from "BradyEng@aol.com" at Dec 7, 95 11:48:40 pm
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SBrady replied in refernce to Eds CCi article(s),

> I was supprised at Eds choice of a speed denisty system for a motorcycle
> engine.  Motorcycles almost always use independent runner intake systems (one
> throttle bore and carb venturi per cylinder).  If you've ever tried to
> synchronize one of these systems, it is obvious that manifold pressure varies
> so much as a function of crank position that I would think that it would be
> useless as an indicator of engine load or cylinder filling.  I also don't see
> how the fuel pressure regulator could have the frequency response to track
> these manifold pressure variations.  This is less severe at full throttle,
> but still present.

Mazda rotaries have a similar problem, especially when ported.  One option
is to place the MAP line into one of the runners and exploit the venturi
effect to give a measure of load.

Fuel pressure regulators have a suprisingly fast response time.  Connection
to only one runner would be a problem though.

> It would seem to me that an N-alpha system would be more applicable.

This is a more common solution.  Most of our rotary or motorcycle applications
use a speed-throttle position system except when turbocharged.

> It would be possible to provide some averaging of the manifold pressurer by
> using a long tube between the sensor and the manifold or manifolding the
> sensor to all the cylinders. This discussion dosn't apply if Ed used
> independent injectors and a single throttle point.

A simple method of mechanical filtering is to either have a restriction
in the line or a relatively large chamber in series to absorb cyclic 
fluctuations as an automotive muffler does.  Electronic filtering and
smart anti aliasing digital sampling can also be used.

> Once again, I really got alot out of the articles, but I'm curious about some
> of the choices that were made on the mechanical side of things.

I haven't been able to get hold of a copy in Australia.  Has anyone locally
found a source?

Robert Dingli
-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
             Robert Dingli           r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Power and Control Systems                 Thermodynamics Research Lab
Electrical Engineering                    Mechanical Engineering
   (+613) 9344 7966                          (+613) 9344 6728
  University of Melbourne, Parkville, 3052, Victoria, AUSTRALIA
----------------------------------------------------------------------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  8 16:25:14 1995
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From: Svein Lilleland <svein.lilleland@hytrol.telemax.no>
Subject: Re: EST Systems
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>There are ign controller chips available which do both the current 
>limiting and dwell control functions.  For example, the MC3334, will 
>accept an input from a reluctor pickup and automatically determine 
>when to commence coil charging

For the sake of us newcomers, where do you get a MC3334??

svein.lilleland@hytrol.telemax.no

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  8 22:27:54 1995
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          Assuming a V8, reconfigure as necessary for your application.
          Why don't you use 5 imbedded magnets in the harmonic balancer and 
          two pick ups to determine firing positions.  Four of the magnets 
          would be 90 degrees from each other, starting at TDC for #1 
          cylinder.  Place these four magnets at the outter edge of the 
          balancer.  The fifth magnet would be positioned at TDC for #1 
          cylinder as well but at the inner edge of the balancer.  One pick 
          up would sense the four outer magnets and the second sensor would 
          sense the fifth magnet.   If you don't have room to run the pickups 
          side by side then off set the fifth magnet, x# of degrees from TDC 
          for #1 cylinder, and the corresponding pick up.  Just make sure 
          both sensors read both magnets at the same time. I'd dial in the 
          maximum ADVANCE you want and use the controller to delay from max 
          advance based on the knock sensor and to a lesser extent the 
          coolant temp sensor.  Remember too much advance can cause 
          overheating.  I'm pretty sure you would'nt even need a vacuum 
          input, for advance based on vacuum.  Just input the spark knock 
          signal and the pick up signal to a variable delay ckt, o/p that 
          signal to all divide by 4 (/4) ckts, o/p /4 to ignition coil driver 
          ckt #1 and to /4 ckt #2, etc. for however many coils your running.  
          The ignition coil driver ckt will need to determine dwell and 
          handle the current necessary to drive your choice of coils as well 
          as limit the current so you don't burn your coil out.  Just 
          thinking here.  I'm not an engineer just a tech but I think this 
          might work.  If any one wants to help me prototype a schematic and 
          help me out with component selection I'd be willing to cobble a 
          prototype ckt, at my expense and test it on my Dart.  I'd even post 
          the results and share the info with all of you.  Email me if you 
          like.  See acsii "art" for /4 ckt.
          
          Steve M Knickerbocker
          STEVE.KNICKERBOCKER@SEMATECH.ORG
          
          sensor 2 i/p   _____                                               
          --------------| /4  |-.-----------    to coil driver #1
          --------.-----|_____| |
          sensor  |   __________| trigger for next /4 ckt
          1 i/p   |  |   _____ 
                  |  '--| /4  |-------------    to coil driver #2
                  '-----|_____|
          obviously these need to be triggerable divide by four ckts.  The 
          trigger for #1 /4 ckt is the pulse from the second, fifth magnet, 
          pick up.  all others will be triggered by the preceeding /4 ckts 
          o/p to the coil drivers.  What say you?


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec  8 23:40:44 1995
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To: diy_efi
From: mrb@mail.mpx.com.au (Mark Boxsell)
Subject: Re: Doug has no Power
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>Mark,
>in answer
>a	42mm and 40 have been used with similiar top end power
>
>b + c	Yes 12 static 32 full( For both FI and Carb).
>	On dyno we tried 25-38 on injection 
>	and got power loss both times
>
>d	dont have the exacy numbers here at work but were like this
>
>	Carb Kw		FI Kw
>4000	55		40	
>5000	70		50
>6000	88		60
>7000	93		70
>8000	95		70
>
>e	Yes but having a different person do it today again
>
>Thanks
>
>	
>-- 
>Doug Robson	Sydney 	Australia	
>-------------------------------------------------------------
>doug@cia.com.au				| Thank God for	
>					|     
>Club Car Racing Register of NSW		|    Gravity
>1992/93 Under 2 litre State Champion	|
>-------------------------------------------------------------
>

Doug,
      Sorry I did not get back to you. I made a fatal mistake, I asked
Telecom to install a new fax line and some extentions to my existing phone
line and in the process they killed everything. This happened Tuesday
afternoon !!!!!!
I have had a similar thing, to your problem, in setting up a 1600cc off-road
buggy. Try this, get some 42mm Weber chokes and "race tape" them in the
trumpets of the 50 mm throttle bodies and tell me what happens. I think you
will be surprised!

            regards,
                       Mark Boxsell
                       MRB Design
                       Sydney  Australia

ps. To take advantage of the 50MM throttle bodies you are going to have to
get some more flow through your cylinder head. Cam, cylinder head and
exhaust all play a part. The easiest is probably a (much) bigger cam even if
someone could lend you one to try.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec  9 00:59:09 1995
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Subject: Re: fuel pressure regulator
To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 8 Dec 95 17:26:37 MDT
From: dn <dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
In-Reply-To: <199512072115.QAA01233@vixa.voyager.net>; from "Daniel R Burk" at Dec 7, 95 4:15 pm
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> 

>         I don't understand your explaination of the fuel regulator in part 1.
> You state that by plumbing the regulator to the intake manifold, as manifold
> pressure rises, it biases the regulator in order to keep a steady 45 PSI.  
> 
> I always thought that by plumbing it to the intake manifold, you effectively
> allow manifold pressure to effect change into the regulator pressure. So, in
> effect, as engine loading increases, and manifold pressure increases, a corr-
> esponding increase in fuel pressure results.  What's the deal?


To butt in here-

The  fuel  pressure reg has the BACK side of the diaphragm (the spring
side) tied into manifold pressure.  It's easier to think in  terms  of
ABSOLUTE pressure rather than GAGE pressure.  By example, suppose that
the regulator  is  set  for  50  PSI.  When the engine is at idle, the
manifold absolute pressure is near zero, which has no  effect  on  the
regulator.   Fuel  pressure (and pressure across the injector) is thus
at 50 PSI absolute.  As manifold pressure increases when you open  the
throttle  (less engine vacuum), it has the effect of boosting the fuel
pressure because the manifold pressure is opposing the spring  in  the
regulator  thus  decreasing  the  effective force on the diaphragm and
opening up the regulator.  Suppose again, that at half  throttle,  the
manifold pressure  is  now 7 psi... this adds to the regulator setting
and results in an absolute  fuel  pressure  of  57  PSI.    Since  the
manifold  side of the injector is at manifold pressure, you still have
a net result of 57-7=50 PSI  across  the  injector  itself,  thus  the
regulator maintains  a  constant  pressure  ACROSS the injector.  Fuel
rail pressure, however, varies with manifold pressure.

In the real world, it's  not  quite  this  straightforward,  but  this
explanation is close enough.  Hope this clears it up for ya.

regards
dn


--
\/<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<</\
\/ Darrell A. Norquay                   Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca      /\
\/ Datalog Technology Inc.              Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell /\
\/ Calgary, Alberta, Canada             Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220             /\
\/                                      Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872             /\
\/    @ +                                                                    /\
\/     <                                                                     /\
\/    __/     "Ain't no substitute for clock speed or compression ratio"     /\
\/>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>/\


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec  9 01:47:11 1995
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One problem with this setup, when the fifth magnetic pickup  is triggered, is
it at TDC compression/power or is it TDC exhaust/intake.  This is where you
need a magnetic pickup  on the cam.

See ya,


Mike

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>The pressure across the injector varies with vacuum.  Remember that the end 
>of it may be seeing atmospheric pressure (WOT) or a vacuum (idle).  A 
>regulator will hold fuel pressure at 45 psi, but the vacuum on the injector 
>end varies from 0 to 8 psi or so.  A regulator that is plumbed to the 
>intake will maintain 45 psi across the injector regardless of the vacuum in 
>the intake.  You can also take vacuum into account in software by modifying 
>the injector pulse, but the regulator makes things a lot easier.
>
>Steve Ravet
>sravet@bangate.compaq.com
>Baby you're a genius when it comes to cooking up some chili sauce...
>

OOOhhhhh  I get it!!   I guess I just wasn't seeing the whole picture...

Thanks for "the deal".

--Dan



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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu


>As long as we are speaking for Ed, I really liked the CCI articles.  They
>provided a proffesional approach to hardware & software development for a
>motorcycle racer with a BSME(me), and I don't think I was the target
>audience.
>
>I was supprised at Eds choice of a speed denisty system for a motorcycle
>engine.  Motorcycles almost always use independent runner intake systems (one
>throttle bore and carb venturi per cylinder).  If you've ever tried to
>synchronize one of these systems, it is obvious that manifold pressure varies
>so much as a function of crank position that I would think that it would be
>useless as an indicator of engine load or cylinder filling.  I also don't see
>how the fuel pressure regulator could have the frequency response to track
>these manifold pressure variations.  This is less severe at full throttle,
>but still present.
>
>It would seem to me that an N-alpha system would be more applicable.

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From: Steve Knickerbocker 512-356-3000 X6759 <Steve.Knickerbocker@SEMATECH.Org>
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          Ok, using two sensors on the balancer is ok except that there is no 
          way to sense TDC/compression vice TDC/intake,exhaust.  I was 
          wondering how I was going to keep the oil pump drive shaft from 
          riding up on my 360.  I'll use a modified distributor base to keep 
          the oil drive shaft in place and supply a TDC compression signal.
          So just covert all remarks about the fifth magnet/second pickup to 
          mean the modified distributor TDC /compression signal.  I think I 
          may have an idea here.  I even have an old distributor I can 
          modify.
          
          Steve M Knickerbocker


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In a message dated 95-12-08 21:19:58 EST, you write:

>
>One problem with this setup, when the fifth magnetic pickup  is triggered,
is
>it at TDC compression/power or is it TDC exhaust/intake.  This is where you
>need a magnetic pickup  on the cam.
>
>

Has anybody tried a crank only system that uses a software scheme to detect
#1 TDC? Something along the lines of starting off as double fire with
independent coils, skipping a spark plug firing, trying to detect the change
in speed, and phasing off of that.  This would be a variation of the old
mechanics trick of pulling a spark plug lead at a time and measuring the
change in idle speed to determine the cylinder that is causing a miss.
 Perhaps this could be done fast enough electronically to be undetectable to
the driver.

SBrady

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> Has anybody tried a crank only system that uses a software scheme to detect
> #1 TDC?

Haven't seen it... seems the Saab system with the sensor could do that
(i.e. if spark did not occur, rotate crank another 360 degrees.. check
for spark).

If the big three could save $3 per vehicle (delete the cam sensor),
seems like it would be in place. ;-)

While on the subject of ignition at cranking... With some engines is
not uncommon to get a "kick back" at cranking, with the engine just
starting to rock backwards. How do we detect for this? ;-) [My high
compression 4 does just this... need to tap the starter quite a few
times for it to start].

Another trick: In Europe it is common to KILL the engine at stop lights.
Little sweep hand on the red light shows you when the next "green" cycle
will occur... giving you time to restart the engine. VW has a system,
controlled by software, that detects a WARM engine, stopped at a light...
push the clutch down. Engine is cut.(shift in Neutral). When you next
push down on the clutch, the engine will apply SPARK to the cylinder it
sensed was last PAST TDC. Engine will "pop,pop, vroom" and off you go again!
[Just a neat software hack]

Tom Walter
Austin, TX

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From: "Nietzsche is dead. -God" <hofmann@uhavax.hartford.edu>
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Could someone please tell me where to get the CCI articles that everyone is 
talking about?  Thanks!
				--Mark

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec  9 16:29:56 1995
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In a message dated 95-12-09 08:48:28 EST, you write:

>While on the subject of ignition at cranking... With some engines is
>not uncommon to get a "kick back" at cranking, with the engine just
>starting to rock backwards. How do we detect for this? ;-) [My high
>compression 4 does just this... need to tap the starter quite a few
>times for it to start].

The hot rodders trick for beating this is to not apply spark until the
starter has the motor up to speed, ie seperate switches for the ignition and
starter.  I've set up my boat(460 ford) and high performance cars this way.
 It dosn't seem like it would be that difficult to implement in software.

Ed Lansinger discussed another scheme in Circuit Cellar Ink #63.  He fired
the plug at exactly TDC at cranking speeds.  The advantage of this scheme
(besides being much more elegant than 2 switches) is that race vehicles can
be bump started.

SBrady

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>Could someone please tell me where to get the CCI articles that everyone is 
>talking about?  Thanks!
>				--Mark
>
>
You can check your friendly collegate library, or you can call
(860)875-2199 and talk to Jeannette Walters about ordering back issues.
They cost $4.00 each, plus an additional $2.00 for postage and handling.

Ask for issues #62, 63, and 64. September through November 1995.

--Dan


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From: ca904@freenet.carleton.ca (Denis Rouleau)
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>
>Could someone please tell me where to get the CCI articles that everyone is 
>talking about?  Thanks!
>				--Mark
>
>
Contact 

	Circuit Cellar Back Issues
	4 Park st
	Vernon, CT
	06066

	Phone # (860) 875-2199
	FAX #   (860)872-2204



--
Salut.

Denis Rouleau  (ca904@freenet.carleton.ca)

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At 08:40 PM 12/8/95 -0500, you wrote:
>One problem with this setup, when the fifth magnetic pickup  is triggered, is
>it at TDC compression/power or is it TDC exhaust/intake.  This is where you
>need a magnetic pickup  on the cam.
>
>See ya,
>
>
>Mike

No cam pickup is needed for dual coils or batch fired injectors, only one
coil per cylinder, or sequential injector systems.

-j-


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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Dec 11 05:18:01 1995
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To: diy_efi
From: wayneg@mail.mpx.com.au (wayne glasser)
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Some where around the traps I read of a person who had made a replica of the
SSI-67F697 engine management co-processor from a FPGA or GAL or something
similar.

Could anyone please assist me in contacting this person.

Many thanks


++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+   Wayne Glasser            +
+   Sydney - AUSTRALIA       +
+   wayneg@mail.mpx.com.au   +
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Dec 11 07:32:55 1995
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Date: Mon, 11 Dec 95 10:19:24 EST
From: Ed Lansinger <elansi01@mpg.gmpt.gmeds.com>
Subject: Re: C for embedded controllers 
To: diy_efi
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My apologies for a) reviving a thread that may have already died
a natural death and b) not responding to other people earlier
pursuant to this thread.  I got really busy all of a sudden.

With respect to the question of using C++ for embedded control and
my upcoming article in the February issue of the C/C++ User's
Journal -

Bruce Bowling wrote:

>Some of the things which blows my mind from using C++ are the following:
>
>1) Virtual functions, in which the virtual function tables get set up
>at runtime (i.e. the function pointers inside of an object get
>set when the object is created) or when an object gets created
>using "new".

It turns out to be no big deal.  When an instance of a class with
virtual functions is created, storage for a pointer to a table
of function addresses, the "vtbl" pointer, is allocated (these addresses
are the addresses of the virtual functions).  This pointer is
inserted as an invisible addition to the normal data members.

When a call is made to a virtual function, the address for the "real"
function is looked up out of this table, then the function is called.
It is therefore only slightly slower than a straight function call.
(The meaning behind calling a C++ virtual member function is different
than behind calling a normal C function, so it's not really appropriate
to compare call times.  If you tried to express the same meaning in C or
assembler or whatever you would still have to go through the same
basic procedure and it would take just as long.)

How does this vtbl pointer get initialized?  Note that all objects of
a given class will use the same vtbl.  They don't have individual vtbls,
they have individual pointers to a vtbl.  The vtbls are created at
compile time.  The only thing that happens at run time is the initialization
of the vtbl pointer inside the new object.  This happens during the "new"
process.  Since the class of the object to be "newed" is explicit, the
correct vtbl is also known.

I recommend reading Ellis and Stroustrup, "The Annotated C++ Reference
Manual", sections 10.7c and 10.8c, for additional information.  I
also recommend playing with cfront.

>Virtual functions appear to be an additional layer
>to debug through, since addresses are determined at runtime and
>can change depending on the inheritance of an object.

To clarify, the addresses of the functions to call (comprising the vtbl)
are determined at compile time.  The determination of which vtbl to use
for a new object happens at runtime during the call to "new" (this is
a trivial determination based solely on the class of the object as specified
in the call to "new").  The vtbl pointer, once initialized, does not change
(at least in any normal code).  An object's inheritance cannot change at
runtime, it's just that you can operate on an object knowing that it is
descended from a certain class without needing to know its exact class.

As to the "additional layer", it's largely invisible during debugging.
If I step a machine instruction at a time across a call to a virtual function,
watching the current high-level source line, the debugger makes a brief detour
to the last line in the file (I assume this indicates a point in the code
for which the compiler indicated no valid source line), then goes to the
first line of the virtual function.  It's effortless.

>2) How does one handle "new" in an embedded system?  Making a "malloc"
>function is easy - making a new, which does things like set up
>virtual function pointers using the constructor, appears harder.
>Does the compiler do all the work?  (I am assuming there is
>no operating system).

I deal with this in the article.  I used cfront (translates C++ to C),
then the Introl C compiler.  cfront requires you to write new(), delete(),
vec_new(), and vec_delete() (the last two are for creating and destroying
arrays of objects).  new() only needs to do what malloc() would do.  cfront
writes C code to take care of anything else.  In the article I don't
give new() and delete() as they are typically very specific to the
system but I do give vec_new() and vec_delete() which need not be.

>3) The strong typecasting of C++, while nice for the new or
>sloppy programmer, can be a menance to someone who wants
>to pass an argument a certain way because they know what
>they are doing and are incrementally smarter than the compiler
>at that moment.

If I may be so bold, I see this belief as a relic from K & R.  I feel
that the weak typing of (non-ANSI) C is nice for the ((new || old) &&
(sloppy || lazy)) programmer who wants to pass an argument when it's too
bothersome to figure out how to properly typecast it. I have never been
prevented by C++ from doing anything I wanted to do.  Explicitness makes
for fewer misunderstandings over time.

What is cool along these lines (IMHO) is the extended ability to make new
types.  I should have gone into this in the article but I didn't.  Creating,
say, a reduced-precision floating point type along with new arithmetic 
operators so you can still write "w = (x * y) + z;" instead of
"w = add( mult (x, y), z);" has important implications for embedded code.
If you don't have strong typing and the ability to define and carefully
control your own type conversions, you or the nimwit who tries to "improve"
your code six months from now (these two sets are not necessarily disjoint)
could hang themselves right quickly.

Matt Sale wrote:

>Then why do you claim in part 1 of your Circuit Cellar INK series
>that "The code is in assembly." 

Sorry, I wasn't clear.  The CCI articles were written about the earliest
viable version of that system as it existed in May '93.  The CUJ article is
about work that I did on a later version as it existed in Spring '94.  The
first was programmed in assembler, the second in C++.

>By the way, the Circuit Cellar series was good, but lacked actual
>code or schematics.  Most Circuit Cellar articles contain enough
>info to actually build something.  Are you willing to make more
>information available?

Thanks for the compliment.  All source code is available, as is the case
with all CCI articles.  Well, let me qualify that.  I have source code for
a barely running version as of May '92 which I will happily make available.
The code for the May '93 version is only available on a hard drive that
crashed right before the articles were published.  All backup floppies
(and I made *extensive* backups) had been lost during the year I was not
involved with the project.  As yet I am not wealthy enough to send the
hard drive off to a data recovery service.

I made a judgement call on the schematics.  Most of the circuitry involved
was rather trivial, and I figured rather than waste space on yet another
example of using an LM324 as a buffer, I'd concentrate on the real beef,
i.e. the special circuits I needed that weren't as obvious.  You should
find schematics for these more important circuits in the articles.  If
there is anything more you'd like to know I'd be happy to provide further
information.

Sandy Ganz wrote:

>Will their be lots of examples in the C/C++ users journal. I hate to think
>that I'm going to have to wait that long to see some of the examples. What
>can I get now...Do you have schematics, or is that propritary?

Yes, there are several examples, including 7 short code listings.  The
article is not about EFI systems, though.  It has one main theme - how
to get C++ code running on an embedded system for which no C++
compiler exists.  The major subtheme is that C++ worked and was useful
for this application.  There is no information on the hardware at all (not
the focus of that magazine anyways), although it's essentially the same
hardware I described in the CCI articles.  The code examples used in
the article are not fully representative of the body of code I
created.  For instance, I don't show the LCDDisplay class and how
it works with the Optrex LCD display to create different display
contexts for different objects such that each thinks they have
their own entire display.  I also don't go into the Process class
that I created for round-robing multitasking, nor the overall
structure, nor ....  Perhaps if you were more specific about what
you're interested in I could be more helpful.


Ed Lansinger
elansi01@mpg.gmpt.gmeds.com:
GM Powertrain Premium V (Northstar/Aurora) Software & Calibraton Group
lansie@rpi.edu:
Project Leader, Rensselaer Formula Lightning Team



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~ 
~ >Virtual functions appear to be an additional layer
~ >to debug through, since addresses are determined at runtime and
~ >can change depending on the inheritance of an object.
~ 
~ 
~ As to the "additional layer", it's largely invisible during debugging.
~ If I step a machine instruction at a time across a call to a virtual function,
~ watching the current high-level source line, the debugger makes a brief detour
~ to the last line in the file (I assume this indicates a point in the code
~ for which the compiler indicated no valid source line), then goes to the
~ first line of the virtual function.  It's effortless.
~ 
~ 
~ If I may be so bold, I see this belief as a relic from K & R.  I feel
~ that the weak typing of (non-ANSI) C is nice for the ((new || old) &&
~ (sloppy || lazy)) programmer who wants to pass an argument when it's too
~ bothersome to figure out how to properly typecast it. I have never been
~ prevented by C++ from doing anything I wanted to do.  Explicitness makes
~ for fewer misunderstandings over time.
~ 

I guess I got "bad blood" from using C++, mainly because of the requirements
of the project.  My bad experience came from using C++ on a non-embedded
project, one that should not have been (in my mind) so difficult, but
caused endless grief until I realized what was going on...

The "project" was an electron accelerator simulation which consisted of several
processes (running on a HP workstation under HPUX) which communicated
using shared-memory.  The idea was to create the objects (which were
several thousand 2-dimensional matrices with associated virtual
functions - each matrix+functions a separate object) in shared memory and
let each concurrent process use the functions.  However, it turns out
that the first process who created the shared-memory objects initialized
the virtual function pointers to its "space" of execution and the other
processes who accessed the virtual functions were trying to access
an address outside of its scope.  This caused me loads of pain on
a project which was already behind because of my learning curve with
C++.

HPUX does not have thread capabilities (the OS version I was using), and
other communication methods like pipes, sockets, etc, were inefficient
with the size of the data (over 70 meg).  The solution to the problem
was to make the objects in shared-memory a sub-class to new objects
which contained the virtual functions (taking them out of the shared-
memory classes) and pointers to the object in shared-memory.  This
worked, but I lost the benefits of encapsulation of data/functions
in one single object.  Each processes has to set up the pointers
to shared-memory themselves, and data accesses are via. the pointers
to shared memory which killed performance slightly.  The program 
also had to worry about shared-memory/object alignment to prevent
access errors.

I guess the point here is that I had to know what the compiler/OS
was doing with the code, and find a work-around, so the whole
notion of just writing code and letting the compiler worry
about the details can lead to trouble.  Hence the "lazy" or
"inexperienced" reference I stated before.

This is a unique problem, which probably would not show up on
an embedded system where one has access to the entire scope
of memory.  However, the experience has reinforced in my mind that
one should use the proper tools for the job.  I was required
to use C++ on this project to make the simulation more
"high-tech"/"state-of-the-art"/etc......


- Bruce

--
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------
               Bruce A. Bowling
  Staff Scientist - Instrumentation and Controls
 The Continuous Electron Beam Accelerator Facility
    12000 Jefferson Ave - Newport News, VA 23602
                 (804) 249-7240
                bowling@cebaf.gov  
        http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------

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--------

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                                       John S Gwynne
                                          Gwynne.1@osu.edu
_______________________________________________________________________________
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Date: Mon, 11 Dec 1995 07:21:00 CST
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At 08:40 PM 12/8/95 -0500, you wrote:
>One problem with this setup, when the fifth magnetic pickup  is triggered, is
>it at TDC compression/power or is it TDC exhaust/intake.  This is where you
>need a magnetic pickup  on the cam.
>
>See ya,
>
>
>Mike

No cam pickup is needed for dual coils or batch fired injectors, only one
coil per cylinder, or sequential injector systems.

-j-

I've come to this conclusion this past weekend.  What I need to know is the
formula for convering mS to degrees at a given RPM.

Steve

--Boundary (ID UxJ6DWxGkEYSwE3PgHgQjw)--

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>  What I need to know is the
> formula for convering mS to degrees at a given RPM.
> 
> Steve

uh... converting?

RPM/60         = RPS ( Rev per SECOND )

RPS/360        = degrees per SECOND

               /* note 60*360 = 21600 */

so RPM/21,600 * 1000 (ms per second)   = degrees per mS

   RPM/21.6


restated at:

  to obtain degrees per milliSecond divide RPM by 21.6
 
quick check:
at 8,000 RPM   =  370ms/Degree   (sounds about right. ;-)


Tom "This puppy redlines at 140Hz" Walter

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> >  What I need to know is the
> > formula for convering mS to degrees at a given RPM.
> > 
> > Steve
> 
> uh... converting?
> 
> RPM/60         = RPS ( Rev per SECOND )
> 
> RPS/360        = degrees per SECOND
> 
>                /* note 60*360 = 21600 */
> 
> so RPM/21,600 * 1000 (ms per second)   = degrees per mS
> 
>    RPM/21.6
> 
> 
> restated at:
> 
>   to obtain degrees per milliSecond divide RPM by 21.6
>  
> quick check:
> at 8,000 RPM   =  370ms/Degree   (sounds about right. ;-)
> 
> 
> Tom "This puppy redlines at 140Hz" Walter


I think the RPS/360 = deg/second above should be RPS*360 = deg/second.

I get:


 N rev   min      s       360 deg
 ----- * ---- * ------- * ------- =  N*360/(60*1000)  deg/ms
   min   60 s   1000 ms     rev


                                  =  N * 0.006  deg/ms 

                                      (where N is in rev/min)


Anthony Tsakiris

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
The opinions expressed are my own and not necessarily those of my employer.

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          Tom,
          
          Thanks for showing me the light.  I'm afraid to even try and figure 
          out what 140 hz equates to.  I'm in a non math kinda day.
          
          Steve


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~ > so RPM/21,600 * 1000 (ms per second)   = degrees per mS
~ > 
~ >    RPM/21.6
~ > 

My web page which computes piston velocity also computes the
time in milliseconds per crankshaft degree:

http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling/auto.html

But dividing by 21.6 is probably *much* faster.......

- Bruce

--
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------
               Bruce A. Bowling
  Staff Scientist - Instrumentation and Controls
 The Continuous Electron Beam Accelerator Facility
    12000 Jefferson Ave - Newport News, VA 23602
                 (804) 249-7240
                bowling@cebaf.gov  
        http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Dec 11 22:33:39 1995
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Egg on my face.... not only did I MIX UP my math on that,
I also did not answer it as Steve requested. Sorry about
that... ;-) 

> formula for convering mS to degrees at a given RPM

   Rev        Minute       s          360 degrees      6       degrees
   ------   * ------  * --------- *   ------------  =  ----------- 
   Minute      60 s      1000 ms            rev         1000   ms




degrees per millisecond = RPM * 0.006


so at 8000 RPM, that is 48.0 degrees per millisecond.
       600 RPM, that is  3.6 degrees per millisecond.

[Thanks to John and Anothony for spotting such a mistake...
 I am much better at hiding them in obscure C calls. Then
 I wouldn't have a chance of getting it past John. ;-)]

I'll stick to doing math in radians. ;-)

Cheers,

Tom "140Hz is just another way of saying 8,400 rpm" Walter


> quick check:
> at 8,000 RPM   =  370ms/Degree   (sounds about right. ;-)
                                    OPPS, no it doesn't!!!!! ;-(
>                                   Old Model T at idle, perhaps?
> 
> Tom "This puppy redlines at 140Hz" Walter

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 12 01:06:39 1995
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     Guys, guys, guys
     
     According to my knowledge of basic physics and common knowledge 140 Hz 
     is 8400 RPM or 50.4 deg/mS
     
     Dan Zorde


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: thanx
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
Date:    12/12/95 7:15 AM


          Tom,
     
          Thanks for showing me the light.  I'm afraid to even try and figure 
          out what 140 hz equates to.  I'm in a non math kinda day.
     
          Steve
     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec 13 03:01:29 1995
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To: diy_efi
From: pantera@dris.com (David Doddek)
Subject: reading the crank
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Lets take a look at a typical example of reading the crank for degrees.

Say that you have a crank trigger wheel with 4 teeth.  One being longer than
the rest for sync reasons.  The leading edge of each trigger point is 90
degrees before TDC for some cylinder (4 or 8 cyl engine).  Now lets say that
you want a delay of 60 degrees so that you will have 90-60=30 deg BTDC
timing.  Lets also assume that you have a 16 bit counter with a resolution
of 1 count per microsecond.  
Measure the time between the leading edges of the two triggers before the
desired timing event = delta t in microseconds.  You know that during this
time, the crank rotated 90 degrees.  Relating these two quantities gives :

   delta t / 90  = microseconds per degree  (mpd)   (1)

Multiply (1) by the desired delay in degrees (60):

   delta t (uS)
  --------------- *  60 deg  = delay time in microseconds
      90 deg

So thus if you were to start timing from the instant that the trigger pulse
occured, you will have an event at 30 deg BTDC.  This event would then be
used to turn off the coil.

To get RPM from this information, we know that one revolution takes four
times  our delta t ,the time it took for our 90 degree crank segment.  Since
we have one revolution in some amount of microseconds and we want some
number of revolutions in one minute, we need to convert.  Our only incorrect
term is time, so remember that there are 1 million microseconds in a second
and 60 seconds in a minute.  

This gives 60,000,000 uS / Min  (2) 

 Multiply (2) by our microseconds per rev and:

   60,000,000 (us)           1 rev
  -------------      *  --------------    =  RPM
     Min                 delta t  * 4 (us)

Of course there is more to this such as calculating when to turn on the coil
and determining the sync of the crankshaft from the given triggers.  Also it
is up to the individual to come up with a clever way of doing the math in
the simplest form.  (Especially when using assembler, 60,000,000 is not a
fun number).

I hope that this was of help and answered some questions and I was not just
babling.

By the way this is the way that the Yamaha FZR 600 reads the crank,  3 short
pulses and 1 long.  And this is a very dynamic engine, so dont flame on only
having 4 triggers per rev please.

David J. Doddek                                          |pantera@dris.com
Owner SGD Electronics & Development Engr for Caterpillar |h 309 685-7965
Formula SAE Team Sidewinder 94-95                        |w 309 578-2931
89 T-bird SC,  69 Fairlane w/SGD EFI                     |fx 217 428-4686
74 Pantera w/Electromitive Tec-II Twin turbos and Nitros |
Hey, If you are going to go fast, go REEEAAL FAST.       |


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec 13 04:48:05 1995
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To: diy_efi
From: ricrain@airmail.net (Ric Rainbolt)
Subject: Re: reading the crank
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>By the way this is the way that the Yamaha FZR 600 reads the crank,  3 short
>pulses and 1 long.  And this is a very dynamic engine, so dont flame on only
>having 4 triggers per rev please.
>
Wow.  The system I'm working on has 144 teeth.  Guess I'll be *REALLY*
accurate. :-)

By the way, the starter ring on the flywheel is an excellent place to pick
this up, no cogs,
gears or wheels to add, just mill a hole for a reluctive sensor and voila!
Of course, you may run into a problem if your CPU of choice can't keep up
(i.e. 8051, etc).


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec 13 07:11:43 1995
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     How do you know where on the crank stroke you are when all the teeth 
     on the flywheel are the same, you can't really make one longer since 
     the starter motor will then have a winge.
     
     Dan


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: reading the crank
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
Date:    13/12/95 2:31 PM


>By the way this is the way that the Yamaha FZR 600 reads the crank,  3 short 
>pulses and 1 long.  And this is a very dynamic engine, so dont flame on only 
>having 4 triggers per rev please.
>
Wow.  The system I'm working on has 144 teeth.  Guess I'll be *REALLY* 
accurate. :-)
     
By the way, the starter ring on the flywheel is an excellent place to pick 
this up, no cogs,
gears or wheels to add, just mill a hole for a reluctive sensor and voila! 
Of course, you may run into a problem if your CPU of choice can't keep up 
(i.e. 8051, etc).
     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec 13 07:15:17 1995
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From: MTaylorfi@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 13 Dec 1995 02:15:04 -0500
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To: diy_efi
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Subject: MAP sensors
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Hey there,

Was wondering if anyone tried to use MAP sensors and Bernollies equation to
determine Mass Airflow.  I'm thinking if one had three MAP sensors (one for
ambiant air pressure, one for static pressure within a tube and one for a
Pitot tube) one could figure out Mass Airflow. Has anyone done this before,
please respond.


See ya,


Mike

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec 13 16:07:36 1995
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From: Markus Strobl <eusmsrt@exu.ericsson.se>
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Date: Wed, 13 Dec 1995 09:59:16 -0600
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To: diy_efi
Subject: re: Reading the crank and OBDII (Camaro)
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

> >By the way this is the way that the Yamaha FZR 600 reads the crank,  3 short
> >pulses and 1 long.  And this is a very dynamic engine, so dont flame on only
> >having 4 triggers per rev please.
> >
> Wow.  The system I'm working on has 144 teeth.  Guess I'll be *REALLY*
> accurate. :-)

I was reading the service manual for a '95 Camaro the other day, and saw
something that looked weird. For the LT1 engine (5.7 liter V8), it seems
they use TWO crank triggers. One low resolution, and one high resolution.
If I recall correctly, the low resolution was 4 pulses per crank revolution,
and the high one was 180 pulses per revolution.

Does anyone know the reason for this? Is it some sort of failsafe, ie
if one sensor failes, the engine runs in  'limp home mode'?

I was impressed by some features of the engine management. One that I
particulary liked was that the LT1 is a MAF type engine, but if the
MAF sensor failes, the ECM will switch to speed density. Neat.

Second subject: I own a '96 Camaro with the LT1. The service manual I
read was for a friends '95. GM did alot of changes for '96 to 
comply with OBDII. My owners manual says that the ECM now detects
misfires, and will flash the service engine light if it detects a
misfire. The '96 also has 4 (!) O2 sensors (dual cat), to detect
catcon degradation. 

Does anyone have any info on OBDII? Ie how much can the engine be
modified before the ECM tilts? Can the ECM be modified, or can
it be fooled be changing the sensor readings? Any info appreciated.

BTW, I won't buy the service manual for the '96 yet, because it
still has 'Preliminary' written on it with big red letters. I want
to wait until the final version is out.


Markus Strobl             96 Z28 6M. !CAGS, 1LE driveshaft,
                          PEG2, QLC, T-tops, leather. Black.
Dallas, Texas             14.09 @99.40. 27.5mpg @85mph.
   
 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec 13 19:45:45 1995
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Date: Wed, 13 Dec 1995 20:11:03 -0100
To: DIY_EFI
From: jsturs@bart.nl (Jim Sturcbecher)
Subject: ECM modifications
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On Weds 13 Dec, Markus wrote:

<snip>

>Second subject: I own a '96 Camaro with the LT1. The service manual I
>read was for a friends '95. GM did alot of changes for '96 to 
>comply with OBDII. My owners manual says that the ECM now detects
>misfires, and will flash the service engine light if it detects a
>misfire. The '96 also has 4 (!) O2 sensors (dual cat), to detect
>catcon degradation. 
>
>Does anyone have any info on OBDII? Ie how much can the engine be
>modified before the ECM tilts? Can the ECM be modified, or can
                                -----------------------
>it be fooled be changing the sensor readings? Any info appreciated.
>

Markus, suggest you cure your static shock problems before playing
with the ECM ;-) ;-)

Fellow f-body lister?

PS. remember what the smilies mean...
Jim Sturcbecher
jsturs@bart.nl


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec 13 19:45:54 1995
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        m_mcdonald@marx.ENET.dec.com
Apparently-To: diy_efi
Subject: RE: re: Reading the crank and OBDII (Camaro)
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Markus Strobl <eusmsrt@exu.ericsson.se> has written:

<snip>

> Second subject: I own a '96 Camaro with the LT1. The service manual I
> read was for a friends '95. GM did alot of changes for '96 to 
> comply with OBDII. My owners manual says that the ECM now detects
> misfires, and will flash the service engine light if it detects a
> misfire. The '96 also has 4 (!) O2 sensors (dual cat), to detect
> catcon degradation. 

> Does anyone have any info on OBDII? Ie how much can the engine be
> modified before the ECM tilts? Can the ECM be modified, or can
> it be fooled be changing the sensor readings? Any info appreciated.

<snip>

An excellent source of information about OBD-II (On-Board Diagnostics,
Level II) is the rule issued by the Environmental Protection Agency
(EPA) on August 9, 1995.  This rule has background information about
the vehicle emission reduction requirements that led to OBD-II hardware
and software.  It also has pointers to additional information such as
emissions-related data that all auto manufacturers must make freely
available to the public.  Fortunately, this emissions-related data
contains much engine-performance-related data.

The EPA rule has the formal title 40 CFR (Code of Federal Regulations)
Parts 9 and 86 that appear on pages 40474 through 40498 of the Federal
Register (Volume 60, Number 153).  Any local EPA office should have
the rule available for reading and photocopying.  It's supposed to
be available on the Internet by pointing your favorite browser to
http://wais.access.gpo.gov or by telnetting to fedworld.gov and giving
the command "/go epa" once you've registered and are at any menu.
After issuing this command you should be able to find both the EPA
rule and manufacturer-provided indexes to their cars' emissions-
related data.  As a last resort, send me an e-mail request and I'll
reply with the EPA rule as a long=180,000 byte file.

Another source of information is the OBD-II specifications for
hardware and data stream messages.  The Society of Automotive Engineers
(SAE) in Warrendale, Pennsylvania has a 1995 manual about this.  Its
number is either HS-3500 or HS-3000.  The cost is about $65.00 (ouch!),
but the contents are invaluable for someone who wants to interface
his own IBM-compatible PC to his car's data stream.  Warrendale, PA
has a 412 area code and the SAE accepts plastic.

Yes, the ECM can be temporarily overriden by electronic tools connected
to a vehicle's OBD-II connector.  This allows technicians to perform
various diagnostic tests.

Marll McDonald   KB1AGM
m_mcdonald@marx.enet.dec.com
 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec 13 20:14:10 1995
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Date: Wed, 13 Dec 1995 15:41:20 -0500
To: diy_efi, diy_efi
From: pjwales@magicnet.net (Peter Wales)
Subject: re: Reading the crank and OBDII (Camaro)
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu


>I was reading the service manual for a '95 Camaro the other day, and saw
>something that looked weird. For the LT1 engine (5.7 liter V8), it seems
>they use TWO crank triggers. One low resolution, and one high resolution.
>If I recall correctly, the low resolution was 4 pulses per crank revolution,
>and the high one was 180 pulses per revolution.
>
>Does anyone know the reason for this? Is it some sort of failsafe, ie
>if one sensor failes, the engine runs in  'limp home mode'?

My guess is that they wait for the 4 tooth one to pass to identify 90 deg
BTDC and the count the 180 one to get within 2 degrees of the correct timing
then set the  counter off to delay until the timing comes correct.

Also, I would start charging the coil up at 90 deg BTDC and use a variable
dwell angle


 
Peter Wales
President Superchips Inc
Chairman Superchips Ltd        "Timing is everything"


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Dec 14 00:45:11 1995
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m_mcdonald@marx.enet.dec.com Wrote:
| 
| 
| Markus Strobl <eusmsrt@exu.ericsson.se> has written:
| 
| <snip>
| 
| > Second subject: I own a '96 Camaro with the LT1. The service manual I
| > read was for a friends '95. GM did alot of changes for '96 to 
| > comply with OBDII. My owners manual says that the ECM now detects
| > misfires, and will flash the service engine light if it detects a
| > misfire. The '96 also has 4 (!) O2 sensors (dual cat), to detect
| > catcon degradation. 
| 
| > Does anyone have any info on OBDII? Ie how much can the engine be
| > modified before the ECM tilts? Can the ECM be modified, or can
| > it be fooled be changing the sensor readings? Any info appreciated.
| 
| <snip>
| 
| An excellent source of information about OBD-II (On-Board Diagnostics,
| Level II) is the rule issued by the Environmental Protection Agency
| (EPA) on August 9, 1995.  This rule has background information about
| the vehicle emission reduction requirements that led to OBD-II hardware
| and software.  It also has pointers to additional information such as
| emissions-related data that all auto manufacturers must make freely
| available to the public.  Fortunately, this emissions-related data
| contains much engine-performance-related data.

I skimmed this document, all I really got out of it was that the EPA is 
requiring manufacturers to make available to the general public all 
emmissions related repair information that they make available to their 
dealers.  (available not implying free).  It also seems to require that 
reprogramming of the ECM be allowed, and the information to accomplish that 
must be made available.  But the information can be made available 
indirectly, in the form of a device that can reprogram the ECM, without 
actually revealing how to reprogram it.  Did I miss anything?

| 
| The EPA rule has the formal title 40 CFR (Code of Federal Regulations)
| Parts 9 and 86 that appear on pages 40474 through 40498 of the Federal
| Register (Volume 60, Number 153).  Any local EPA office should have
| the rule available for reading and photocopying.  It's supposed to
| be available on the Internet by pointing your favorite browser to
| http://wais.access.gpo.gov or by telnetting to fedworld.gov and giving
| the command "/go epa" once you've registered and are at any menu.
| After issuing this command you should be able to find both the EPA
| rule and manufacturer-provided indexes to their cars' emissions-
| related data.  As a last resort, send me an e-mail request and I'll
| reply with the EPA rule as a long=180,000 byte file.

These indices are basically a list of the available service manuals, TSB, 
training kits, etc.  Each has a note attached saying to contact *whoever* 
to purchase the information.  It's presented as a list of files like this:
gmc0001.txt
gmc0002.txt
..

doing a search for "corvette" and "bulletin" results in a list of TSBs 
related to corvettes.

The training kits looked interesting, they included:

Description: Corvette CCM *3
 * Description Information
      1 = Manual
      2 = Student Workbook
      3 = Instructor's Guide
      4 = Overhead Slide Set
      5 = Binder
      6 = Student Package
      7 = Systematic Troubleshooting Poster
      8 = Complaint Description Form
      9 = ECM Inputs Exercise
     10 = ECM Outputs Exercise

Prices ranged from $10 to $25 or so.  I wonder if anyone knows what is 
really in these kits?


| 
| Another source of information is the OBD-II specifications for
| hardware and data stream messages.  The Society of Automotive Engineers
| (SAE) in Warrendale, Pennsylvania has a 1995 manual about this.  Its
| number is either HS-3500 or HS-3000.  The cost is about $65.00 (ouch!),
| but the contents are invaluable for someone who wants to interface
| his own IBM-compatible PC to his car's data stream.  Warrendale, PA
| has a 412 area code and the SAE accepts plastic.
| 
| Yes, the ECM can be temporarily overriden by electronic tools connected
| to a vehicle's OBD-II connector.  This allows technicians to perform
| various diagnostic tests.
| 
| Marll McDonald   KB1AGM
| m_mcdonald@marx.enet.dec.com
|  
| 



Steve Ravet
sravet@bangate.compaq.com
Baby you're a genius when it comes to cooking up some chili sauce...

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Subject: Re: EST Systems
To: diy_efi
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 95 22:17:18 MDT
From: dn <dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
Cc: jwharris@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com
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To revive an old thread, I think I may have stumbled onto the  key  to
the GM 7 pin ignition module.  After seeing on some thread a reference
to  the Motorola MC3333 ignition control chip, I started browsing some
of my data books for ignition controllers and remembered that  Allegro
Microsystems makes  a  lot of specialty automotive chips.  I looked in
their automotives section, and sure enough, they make a  chip  called,
appropriately  enough,  an  Electronic  Spark Timing Controller, their
part number ULQ2460A.  After reading through the data sheet, it struck
me that the device they were describing matches the info that  I  have
on the GM 7 pin module EXACTLY!  

The    chip   is   "intended   to   interface   between   conventional
electromagnetic pickups, a computer controlled electronic spark timing
(EST) computer, and a high efficiency ignition coil" (quoted from  the
databook).  They  even  call it an EST!  After looking more closely at
the data sheet, they describe an application schematic where there are
3 connection points to the computer:

1. Reference	-	signal conditioned output from the pickup

2. EST  (Electronic  Spark  Timing)	- control input from the EST
computer, allows the CPU complete control over ignition functions

3. Bypass	-	causes  the  device to internally process the Reference
signal to control dwell, spark timing, and spark advance  without  the
aid of the computer

Coincidence? I think not! Of course, the applications schematic  shows
a  few  external  components,  including some RC time constants, a PNP
darlington coil driver, etc., but the description is almost  word  for
word the same as GM's own description of the module.  The good part of
all  this  is  that  the  data  sheet lists all the thresholds for the
inputs  and outputs, and gives an internal schematic of the chip which
shows the innermost secrets of the device.

For anyone who is interested, the address for these guys is:

Allegro Microsystems Inc.
115 Northeast Cutoff
Box 15036
Worcester MA 01615
Voice (508) 853-5000
Fax   (508) 853-5049

You should be able to  call  their  Customer  Service  department  and
request a  free  copy  of the databook.  Also, if you lie through your
teeth  and tell them that you're going to buy 10,000 or so units, they
can probably be convinced to send you some free engineering samples.


| Specific to jwharris:

| I recall in an earlier message in this thread you said that you  had
| access  to  schematics  of  the  modules,  I wonder if it would be a
| breach of confidentiality to confirm whether or not this is the main
| component of the Delco module?  If not, it will save me and probably 
| others a lot of time dinking around  with a scope  under the hood of 
| the ol' Chebby.  If so, I  think  that I have sufficiently convinced
| myself that this is, indeed the heart of the EST "7 pin" module  and
| I will proceed merrily on from here.

regards
dn





--
\/<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<</\
\/ Darrell A. Norquay                   Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca      /\
\/ Datalog Technology Inc.              Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell /\
\/ Calgary, Alberta, Canada             Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220             /\
\/                                      Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872             /\
\/    @ +                                                                    /\
\/     <                                                                     /\
\/    __/     "Ain't no substitute for clock speed or compression ratio"     /\
\/>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>/\


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Dec 14 14:28:08 1995
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From: "Nietzsche is dead. -God" <hofmann@uhavax.hartford.edu>
To: diy_efi
Message-ID: <0099AD8E.24916500.134@uhavax.hartford.edu>
Subject: Prices...
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I'm wondering how much should one pay for and efi unit unprogrammed.  I have
gotten a few quotes and was rather shocked. (Of course I was asking for an
8096 so that may have something to do with it.)

				--Mark Hofmann

"Hofmann@uhavax.hartford.edu"

Sig?  Whazzat?

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Dec 14 17:57:53 1995
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Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 09:44:00 -0800 (PST)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" <BZUBLIN@PO2.GI.COM>
Subject: Injector flow rate (long post)
To: "toyota-mods@cyberauto.com" <toyota-mods@cyberauto.com>
Cc: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" <BZUBLIN@PO2.GI.COM>,
        "diy_efi (postings)" <DIY_EFI>, Matti Kalalahti <k124476@ee.tut.fi>
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Some people on the list were asking about flow rates of various injectors 
from Toyota engines.  Here is some data from the 22RTE engine.


I have measured the flow rate of four injectors from a Toyota 22RTE engine, 
from a 1986 truck (estimated year).  This is a turbo charged version of the 
22RE, with the CT20 turbo.


DATA

Tested by:  Bryan Zublin
Date of test:  January 1992.
Location:  Poway, California, USA

Injector part number:  Toyota 23250-35020.
Gasoline:  Mobil Super+ unleaded, 92 octane (min), color yellow-green.
Gasoline density:  0.75 grams/mL.
Fuel pressure:  38 psi.
Air temp:  16 to 18 deg C.
Injector current:  1.45 amps.
Duration of test:  60 +/- 0.5 seconds.
Number of trials:  4 or 5 per injector.

Here is the data for each injector (following cleaning):

#1:  298, 296, 299, 297, 297;  avg = 297.4 mL/min.
#2:  307, 307, 307, 307;       avg = 307.0 mL/min.
#3:  296, 297, 297, 298, 298;  avg = 297.2 mL/min.
#4:  299, 301, 301, 301;       avg = 300.5 mL/min.

Note:  mL/minute is the same as cc/minute.


NOTES

The Bentley Service Manual for the Toyota Pickup and 4Runner (published 
1988) lists the injector flow rates as shown below.  I believe that this 
information is NOT correct.

Engine     Year           Flow                   Max delta between injectors

22RE       1984-1986      160-200 cc/min             6 cc
22RTE      1985-1987      160-200 cc/min             6 cc
22RTE      1988           260-320 cc/min             8 cc

This information conflicts with the 1987 and 1988 Toyota Factory Service 
Manual, which lists the flow rate for the 22RTE as 260 to 320 cc/min.  Also, 
there are only two injector part numbers listed for the production run of 
this engine, with the most common on model years 1986 through 1988.

Manufacture Date                     Injector Assembly Number

8501-8508 (model year 1985)          23209-35010
8508-8808 (model years 1986-1988)    23209-35020

The assembly contains the grommet and O ring, so the part number is 
different that the number on the injector itself.  It appears that I have 
the later injectors.

It is interesting to note that the specs on each injector are quite wide 
(around +/- 10% of the center), while the spec on the variation between 
injectors is quite tight (around +/- 3%).  This would imply that the 
injectors are matched in the factory as a set before being installed on the 
engine.


TEST PROCEDURE

The injector was turned on for 60 seconds and the fuel was collected in a 
beaker.  The fuel and beaker were then weighed on a triple beam Ohaus 
balance and the volume was calculated based on the density of the fuel.  The 
density of the fuel was previously measured using three different containers 
(a 300 mL beaker, 10 mL graduated cylinder, and a 100 mL volumetric flask). 
 The three measurements were 0.747, 0.75, and 0.753 grams/mL.  The average 
is 0.75 grams/mL.

Each injector was tested 5 times, and then cleaned with Red Line SI-1 
Injector & Valve Detergent.  The injectors were then tested 4 or 5 more 
times each.  Cleaning the injectors improved the flow rates of all 
injectors, with the most significant change occurring to injector #1 (16% 
increase).


TEST SETUP

Fuel Reservoir
    |
Fuel Pump (1)
    |
Pulsation Damper (2)
    |
Fuel Filter (3)
    |
Fuel Filter (4)
    |
Pulsation Damper (5)
    |
Fuel Rail (6)
    |
    |---- Fuel Injectors (7) --- Hose --- Beaker
    |
    |---- Pressure Gauge (8)
    |
Pressure Regulator (9) ---- Reference port (10) (vent to atmosphere)
    |
Return to Fuel Reservoir


(1) Fuel Pump:  from a 1978 Datsun 280Z, the type that mounts external to 
the gas tank.
(2) Pulsation Damper:  came with the fuel pump.
(3) Fuel Filter:  for Nissan / Datsun cars, Puraltor PF-3128.
(4) Fuel Filter:  the stock Toyota fuel filter for the 22RTE engine.
(5) Pulsation Damper:  the stock Toyota part, mounted to the start of the 
fuel rail.
(6) Fuel Rail:  from the same engine.
(7) Fuel Injectors:  from the same engine, part number marking 23250-35020.
(8) Pressure Gauge:  from Napa Auto Parts, PN 700-1487.
(9) Pressure Regulator:  from the same engine, mounted to the end of the 
fuel rail.
(10) Reference Port:  this is normally connected to the intake manifold of 
the engine.  It was left unconnected and vented to the atmosphere for this 
test.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Dec 14 17:59:29 1995
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Apparently-To: sravet@bangate.compaq.com, diy_efi
Subject: RE: re: RE: re: Reading the crank and OBDII (Camaro)
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Steve Ravet <sravet@bangate.compaq.com> writes:

> I skimmed this document [the EPA document about OBD-II}, all I really
> got out of it was that the EPA is requiring manufacturers to make
> available to the general public all emmissions related repair
> information that they make available to their dealers.  (available
> not implying free).  It also seems to require that reprogramming of
> the ECM be allowed, and the information to accomplish that must be
> made available.  But the information can be made available indirectly,
> in the form of a device that can reprogram the ECM, without actually
> revealing how to reprogram it.  Did I miss anything?

The EPA document forces manufacturers to make available all their
emissions-related repair information that, in turn, contains *much*
performance-related information.  It's not free, but it's not the
dozens/hundreds of dollars per manual that the manufacturers would
probably like to charge and it is easily available.  Many related
companies, such as Helms in Detroit, have toll-free numbers and
accept plastic.  These companies must ship the technical information
within a day or two of receiving an order.

Apparently limited reprogramming of a vehicle's ECM is allowed so
that technicians can look for problems and verify that they've been
solved.  I don't know much about reprogramming.  My goal is to be
able to *read* the messages moving among sensors, the ECM, and
actuators.  I have no desire to *write* or *alter* these messages.  

<snip>

About "available service manuals, TSBs, training kits, etc." -- these
are what manufacturers make available to technicians at dealerships,
so I assume they contain information that's valuable to skilled
do-it-yourselfers such as members of this mailing list.


Marll McDonald   KB1AGM
m_mcdonald@marx.enet.dec.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Dec 14 20:12:06 1995
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Subject: Re: MAP sensors
To: diy_efi
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 95 12:47:16 MDT
From: dn <dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
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> Was wondering if anyone tried to use MAP sensors and Bernollies equation to
> determine Mass Airflow.  I'm thinking if one had three MAP sensors (one for

Mike:

Dodge used to use a system similar  to  this  in  their  earlier  fuel
injection systems.   Don't  know  if  they  still use it or not.  As I
recall, though, they used vanes in the inlet to create a vortex in the
airflow sensor, and a couple of pitot tubes to measure the pressure at
the center  of  the  vortex.  Was a little more complicated than that,
somehow they relied on the vortex "whipping" around in  the  tube  and
measured the  frequency  of the resulting pressure pulses.  I got this
from a book called:

Domestic Electronic Fuel Injection and Computer Systems
by Frederick D. Allen
Prentice Hall
ISBN 0-13-218256-4 

This  book  is  worthwhile  reading,  although it doesn't go into much
detail on the electronics side, it describes fuel injection systems in
general from the Big 3 and is a good overall reference.

As far as using a venturi or  the  like,  the  pressure  differentials
involved are  very small and difficult to measure.  I think you'd need
an accurate (read "Expensive") differential pressure sensor to do  it,
along with  temp  comp, etc.  I don't think the stock MAP sensor would
be sensitive enough for the pressures involved. May be do-able but not
easy or cheap.  If the Big 3 don't do it, it ain't cost effective!

Regards
dn



--
\/<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<</\
\/ Darrell A. Norquay                   Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca      /\
\/ Datalog Technology Inc.              Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell /\
\/ Calgary, Alberta, Canada             Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220             /\
\/                                      Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872             /\
\/    @ +                                                                    /\
\/     <                                                                     /\
\/    __/     "Ain't no substitute for clock speed or compression ratio"     /\
\/>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>/\


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Subject: Re: MAP sensors 
In-Reply-To: Your message of "Thu, 14 Dec 95 12:47:16 MDT."
             <9511141947.AA16746@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca> 
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> somehow they relied on the vortex "whipping" around in  the  tube  and
> measured the  frequency  of the resulting pressure pulses.

Vague recollections:  Toyota may use this vortex/frequency method in
recent or current models.  You might check them out.


Anthony Tsakiris

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
The opinions expressed are my own and not necessarily those of my employer.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec 15 02:12:09 1995
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From: MTaylorfi@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 21:01:03 -0500
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To: diy_efi
Subject: All the EST
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Now please don't get me wrong, but what is the point of going so ape over an
EST.  Top fuelers are using Magnetos and runnin' fours.  I see all kind of
rails at Bandimere speedway (1/4 mile track) that have either stock
electronic or minimumly modified ignition and the're runnin' sevens.  My
point is why spend the time, effort and money to design something that won't
do better that what is out there (cost and performance).  I'm not tryin' to
be a pessimist, but can someone show me actual quicker quarter mile times or
dyno tests.
     If someone has a unique engine, I can see the custom setup.  And also
delay spark for detonation control.  But there is a certain point of
advancing an engine's timing to get maximum performance.  Any more advance
and you loose power!!!
     Just pointin' out the forest, since some people are stairin' at trees.

See ya,

Mike

PS Let the comments begin.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec 15 02:48:12 1995
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From: lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky)
Subject: Re: All the EST
To: diy_efi
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 1995 20:39:31 -0600 (CST)
In-Reply-To: <951214210101_73222500@emout06.mail.aol.com> from "MTaylorfi@aol.com" at Dec 14, 95 09:01:03 pm
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MTaylorfi@aol.com writes:
> 
> Now please don't get me wrong, but what is the point of going so ape over an
> EST.  Top fuelers are using Magnetos and runnin' fours.  I see all kind of
> rails at Bandimere speedway (1/4 mile track) that have either stock
> electronic or minimumly modified ignition and the're runnin' sevens.  My
> point is why spend the time, effort and money to design something that won't
> do better that what is out there (cost and performance).  I'm not tryin' to
> be a pessimist, but can someone show me actual quicker quarter mile times or
> dyno tests.

uhm, this ain't the dragrace list, dude.  For most of us the throttle
has many more positions than ON and OFF.  Top fuelers run at WOT, near
constant load and speed i believe.  They can't benefit from spark
advance of any form.  My 68 Camaro's 350 on the other hand sees full throttle
at any speed between 1800 RPM and 5500RPM...  and theres a significant
difference in MBT timing for 1800RPM WOT and 5500RPM WOT on my motor.
If I was just worried about WOT, tho, good ole mechanical advance would
do everything I need.  But I spend a lot more time at part throttle on
the street than I do at WOT.  And the difference between MBT timing
at 1800RPM idling and 1800RPM WOT is MUCH larger than the difference
between MBT timing at 1800RPM WOT and 5500RPM WOT.  SO it probably won't
help your quarter mile...  but it'll sure help your idle, fuel economy,
streetability, etc.



-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky                        lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
http://www.hotrod.com                       (615) 726-8700
-------------------------------------   ------------------------------
68 Camaro Convertible - 350 / TH350  \_/ 80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec 15 03:33:43 1995
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To: diy_efi
From: ws6transam@voyager.net (Daniel R Burk)
Subject: RE: Playing with the ECM
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>
>Markus Strobl <eusmsrt@exu.ericsson.se> has written:
>
><snip>
>
>> Second subject: I own a '96 Camaro with the LT1. The service manual I
>> read was for a friends '95. GM did alot of changes for '96 to 
>> comply with OBDII. My owners manual says that the ECM now detects
>> misfires, and will flash the service engine light if it detects a
>> misfire. The '96 also has 4 (!) O2 sensors (dual cat), to detect
>> catcon degradation. 
>
>> Does anyone have any info on OBDII? Ie how much can the engine be
>> modified before the ECM tilts? Can the ECM be modified, or can
>> it be fooled be changing the sensor readings? Any info appreciated.
>
><snip>

Marcus:  Before you modify your ECM let me tell you about a little conversation
I have had with a GM engineer who actually worked in ECM design.

GM will be designing their new vcm (vehicle control module) with anti-tampering
software.  There are three levels of information available on the new vcm:
        1) general engine diagnostics (freely available to scan tools)
        2) dealership functions (like clearing the trouble codes)
        3) emissions functions ( fuel maps, shift maps, ignition timing)

As you can guess, level two will be only available to authorized service
personnel.  Level three will be protected from modifications from everyone
except GM.  

If someone like me, or you, or Hypertech, tries to gain access and change level
three type of information in the new '97 VCM, and does not have the correct
access code the FIRST TIME, the VCM will lock itself down into a
non-functional unit that cannot be restarted except by engineers at Delco!!

Yup, it sucks don't it?  

I asked the engineer "Why!?"  and he replied it is because of liability
concerns that GM is implementing this type of security.  

--- Thought you would like to know that I am going to buy me a used '95 or '96
in a few years.  I don't want the '97 anymore.

---Dan
 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec 15 05:18:58 1995
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I just had to put my two cents in about this one.  You mentioned that top fuel
dragsters are running magnetos and running in the 4 second 1/4 mile times. 
This is very much true.  What you didn't mention was that electronic engine
controls (CONTROLS, not MONITORs) of any kind are illigal in NHRA top fuel and
funny car drag racing.  The reason they don't (and they would love to go with
fuel injection and electroic ignition.  Do you know how hard it is to light
nitromethane?) is they can't.  NHRA feals that it would take a large part of
the driver skill away if they allowed electronic engine controls.  Think how
easy it would be to control the ignition so that the wheel slippage was
maintained at a constant percent?  No more "Up is smoke" for the big boys!

Clint

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec 15 06:38:12 1995
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To: diy_efi
From: Land Shark <lndshrk@xmission.com>
Subject: RE: Playing with the ECM
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At 22:25 12/14/95 -0500, you wrote:

>GM will be designing their new vcm (vehicle control module) with anti-tampering
>software.  There are three levels of information available on the new vcm:
>        1) general engine diagnostics (freely available to scan tools)
>        2) dealership functions (like clearing the trouble codes)
>        3) emissions functions ( fuel maps, shift maps, ignition timing)

 This is already in effect in any brain that is OBD-II compliant to some degree

 (flash eeprom, security codes to reprogram, etc)

 Even the OBD-I (or is it just OBD) had SOME anti-tamper functions, like multiple
 checksums, and max revs stored elsewhere in the vehicle (instrument cluster!)

>As you can guess, level two will be only available to authorized service
>personnel.  Level three will be protected from modifications from everyone
>except GM.  

 Yeah, and then someone with a little savvy will pull the EEPROMS from a fully functional
 brain, dump the code, disassemble it and figure out all the little minefields ... as they
 have with every OEM trick so far .. 

 Currently, I'm working on doing this for the Bosch M5.2 and Siemens MS41.1 controllers
 in the new BMWs (my bag is Bosch Motronic)

 All of their new stuff is EEPROM/Anti-Tamper per OBD-II (yuk!!)

 Jim Conforti

 



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec 15 15:50:03 1995
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From: Brad_Miller@so.xerox.com (Miller,Brad)
To: DIY_EFI
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Say - - I've got a question . . . . 

I've got a 2.5L TBI Dodge in a '93 Duster.  I'm looking for a little 
 more pickup and I've been told that the stock intake manifold sucks . 
 . .  (BTW:  I might have asked this before . .. mind is slipping . . ) 
  I'm wondering if it's feasible to scavenge the local boneyard for a 2 
 peice intake manifold from a turbo car and to use it with my existing 
 TBI unit.  The different intake manifold is actually a "tuned" setup.  
 I'm told it was originally designed for non-turbo applications.  For 
 right now, I'd keep the injectors in place (but not hooked up) or I'd 
 plug those holes up.  I'm thinking of fashioning a mounting plate to 
 mount my stock TBI unit on the manifold.  

Has anyone done anything like this?  I know there has to be other cars 
 that people have converted from one type of system to another.  My 
 long-term goal would be to convert this car to a fuel-injected turbo 
 setup, and this would start the ball rolling.

Also - - another more in-depth question:  The stock 2.2/2.5 motors from 
 Chrysler had only 8.0:1 compression, my motor is "supposedly" got 
 about 9-9.5:1.   I've read numerous articles in "Sport Compact Car" 
 and "Turbo and Hi-Tech Performance" on systems running under boost 
 with compression ratios that high.  What would the benefit of the 
 higher compression ratio be?  I love my car's current off the line 
 torque, and I'm afraid that lowering the compression ratio will hurt 
 it significantly.  Anyone got any ideas on that?


Thanks a lot!  I've been following a long quietly on the sidelines here 
 . . . . 

I've also got a few ideas about converting my 2.2 Shelby Charger from 
 Webers to fuel injection - - - I was looking at aftermarket throttle 
 bodies for the Weber manifold - - but it might be easier to put the 
 2.2 Turbo II intake on and sell the Webers.   



Bradley Miller
Midwest Shelby Dodge Automobile Club
brad_miller@so.xerox.com
or
brad2dbone@aol.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec 15 15:58:56 1995
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ws6transam@voyager.net (Daniel R Burk) Wrote:
| 
| >
| >Markus Strobl <eusmsrt@exu.ericsson.se> has written:
| >
| ><snip>
| >
| >> Second subject: I own a '96 Camaro with the LT1. The service manual I
| >> read was for a friends '95. GM did alot of changes for '96 to 
| >> comply with OBDII. My owners manual says that the ECM now detects
| >> misfires, and will flash the service engine light if it detects a
| >> misfire. The '96 also has 4 (!) O2 sensors (dual cat), to detect
| >> catcon degradation. 
| >
| >> Does anyone have any info on OBDII? Ie how much can the engine be
| >> modified before the ECM tilts? Can the ECM be modified, or can
| >> it be fooled be changing the sensor readings? Any info appreciated.
| >
| ><snip>
| 
| Marcus:  Before you modify your ECM let me tell you about a little 
conversation
| I have had with a GM engineer who actually worked in ECM design.
| 
| GM will be designing their new vcm (vehicle control module) with 
anti-tampering
| software.  There are three levels of information available on the new 
vcm:
|         1) general engine diagnostics (freely available to scan tools)
|         2) dealership functions (like clearing the trouble codes)
|         3) emissions functions ( fuel maps, shift maps, ignition timing)
| 
| As you can guess, level two will be only available to authorized service
| personnel.  Level three will be protected from modifications from 
everyone
| except GM.  
| 
| If someone like me, or you, or Hypertech, tries to gain access and change 
level
| three type of information in the new '97 VCM, and does not have the 
correct
| access code the FIRST TIME, the VCM will lock itself down into a
| non-functional unit that cannot be restarted except by engineers at 
Delco!!
| 
| Yup, it sucks don't it?  
| 
| I asked the engineer "Why!?"  and he replied it is because of liability
| concerns that GM is implementing this type of security.  
| 
| --- Thought you would like to know that I am going to buy me a used '95 
or '96
| in a few years.  I don't want the '97 anymore.
| 
| ---Dan
|  
| 
| 

I'd be interested in hearing that conversation.  The EPA published a rule 
in the Federal Register Aug 9 1995 that basically deals with what 
information has to be on the OBD bus.  Anything emissions related must be 
present and compliant with OBD-II specs so that any generic scan tool can 
read it.  In addition, *any* information relating to the diagnosis or 
repair of OBD systems that is available to dealers must also be made 
available to the general public.  Finally, manufacturers must have 
provisions for reprogramming ECMs in the interest of emissions related 
repair.  Since dealers have to know how to reprogram ECMs, the 
manufacturers will have to make that info available to everyone else.  The 
catch is, they can make it available "indirectly", in the form of a device 
that does the reprogramming, without telling people how it's actually done.

This conversation happened just this week somewhere else (on the efi332 
list?) so sorry if this is a repeat...

The bottom line is, keeping independant shops (and owners) from being able 
to repair their own cars is anti-competitive behavior.

Steve Ravet
sravet@bangate.compaq.com
Baby you're a genius when it comes to cooking up some chili sauce...

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec 16 00:41:26 1995
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From: MTaylorfi@aol.com
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In a message dated 95-12-15 11:15:44 EST, you write:

> higher compression ratio be?  I love my car's current off the line 
> torque, and I'm afraid that lowering the compression ratio will hurt 
> it significantly.  Anyone got any ideas on that?
>
>
Yeah, detonation! the higher the compression, the less the boost you can run
(pretty much).

See ya,

Mike


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec 16 01:59:58 1995
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Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 17:58:00 -0800 (PST)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" <BZUBLIN@PO2.GI.COM>
Subject: Re: 67f687 chip ...
To: "diy_efi (postings)" <DIY_EFI>
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Andrew wrote:

>The location is:
>ftp://cim.cim.swin.edu.au/pub/uploads/aden/
>
>the files are:
>
>67f687.pdf   (binary)
>67f687.ps    (ascii)
>67f687.zip   (binary)

Andrew,
Are these files also on the WWW page?  I don't have access to ftp.  Maybe 
you could just email me the 67f687.pdf file.
Thanks,
Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec 16 06:06:39 1995
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From: Watergeo@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 16 Dec 1995 00:58:44 -0500
Message-ID: <951216005843_74051547@emout05.mail.aol.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: All the EST
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I think most of the DYI-EFI guys are in it more for the application of
 techie/engineering/physics/computer geek expertise (by all means, nothing
negative intended). The vehicle would need to show improved street
drivability of course and If the rig goes faster in the 1/4, then that would
be a positive side benefit.

 Just my first take as a casual observer. I, however, will continue to soak
up the info, in case I can make my own vehicles go faster...  

Nick Hagen

 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec 16 16:19:27 1995
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To: diy_efi
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 1995 15:16:45
Subject: Re: RE: re: Reading the crank and OBDII (Camaro)
From: "Brian Warburton, c/o Turbo Systems Ltd" <bwarb@turbo.win-uk.net>
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Hi,

My name is Brian Warburton and I run a small (2 man) company in the
UK producing engine management systems for aftermarket use. I
was a consultant at Ford Motor Co. on EEC-IV software design from
1986 to 1994 and used to be reasonable knowledgable about OBD-ii.
Unfortunately I seem to have forgotten most of it now and only have
an email-type Internet connection so can't browse anything. I'd
like to take you up on your offer if at all possible : 

>As a last resort, send me an e-mail request and I'll
>reply with the EPA rule as a long=180,000 byte file.
>

                       Thanks very much.

 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Brian Warburton, "Still searching for the perfect curve....."
email: bwarb@turbo.win-uk.net
                                Advanced Automotive Electronics Ltd,
                                Van-Nuys House, Scotlands Drive,
                                Farnham Common, England.  SL2-3ES
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec 16 18:34:15 1995
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From: BradyEng@aol.com
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Brad,

You probably won't like what happens to the throttle response when you move
the TBI unit to the end of a longer tuned manifold.  A dyno may or may not
tell you that you're making more torque, but the seat of your pants will
probably be disappointed.  You also may wind up with mixture distribution
problems and horrible emissions because you're using a manifold that was not
designed for wet flow.

If you run good gas (92 octane pump) and keep the boost within reason(4-6psi)
you shouldn't have problems with a published 9.5:1 compression.  This also
assumes you can optimize fuel deliviery(mixture and distribution) and spark
timing.  You would probably like the characteristics of this motor more than
a lower compression higher boost setup.   

Some ways of lowering compression without new pistons would include a cam
with more duration (10 more degrees of duration costs about 0 .5 points of
compression), thicker head gasket (there is usually not much here), and/or
porting the combustion chamber to unshroud the valves.  Are there other heads
available for this engine with larger combustion chambers?.

The best advice I can give you though is to sell the car you have and buy the
turbo version.  Why try to make something almost as good as a factory turbo,
when you can focus on improving the turbo version?  In general, turbo cars
come with premium suspensions, brakes, upgraded cooling systems, upgraded
engine components, transmissions etc.  The cost savings of starting with the
cheaper car are an illusion, even if you don't value your time.  I'm not sure
what the emissions laws are in your end of the country, but if they have an
inspection program the modifications you're considering will smoke the resale
value of the car.

If you don't have much money to spend, and want to really fly, buy a
motorcycle.

Good Luck, and have fun with it whichever way you go.

SBrady


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Dec 17 04:06:01 1995
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	Sat, 16 Dec 1995 20:51:24 -0700
From: fridman@cpsc.ucalgary.ca (Robert Fridman)
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Date: Sat, 16 Dec 1995 20:51:21 -0700
Message-Id: <199512170351.UAA06932@aa.cpsc.ucalgary.ca>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: 67f687 chip ...
Cc: BZUBLIN@PO2.GI.COM
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> Andrew wrote:
> 
> >The location is:
> >ftp://cim.cim.swin.edu.au/pub/uploads/aden/
> >
> >the files are:
> >
> >67f687.pdf   (binary)
> >67f687.ps    (ascii)
> >67f687.zip   (binary)
> 
> Andrew,
> Are these files also on the WWW page?  I don't have access to ftp.  Maybe 
> you could just email me the 67f687.pdf file.
> Thanks,
> Bryan Zublin
> bzublin@gi.com
> 

I put the postscript file in the diy_efi www pages.  Try:
http://www.cpsc.ucalgary.ca/~fridman/diy_efi/component_info/


	RF.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
83 R100			DoD 749			Robert Fridman
84 320i						fridman@cpsc.ucalgary.ca

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Dec 18 12:32:11 1995
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	for <DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu> id HAA22957; Mon, 18 Dec 1995 07:22:51 -0500
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	(1.37.109.4/16.2) id AA06867; Mon, 18 Dec 95 07:22:48 -0500
From: Derrick Early <early@finite.nrl.navy.mil>
Subject: BKM's box?
To: DIY_EFI (diy_efi)
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 95 7:22:48 "EST
Mailer: Elm [revision: 70.85]
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I just read an article about a "Configurable Electronic Engine Control
Computer" in the September issue of Automotive Engineer.  The author was
Dave Steinmeyer of BKM.  I assume it is BKM's box that he was writing
about.  Has anyone had any experience with this controller?

Yours,
--
Derrick Early
early@finite.nrl.navy.mil

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Dec 18 19:18:24 1995
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Date: Mon, 18 Dec 1995 14:13:01 -0500 (EST)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: All the EST
In-Reply-To: <951214210101_73222500@emout06.mail.aol.com>
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> Now please don't get me wrong, but what is the point of going so ape over an
> EST.  Top fuelers are using Magnetos and runnin' fours.  I see all kind of
> rails at Bandimere speedway (1/4 mile track) that have either stock
> electronic or minimumly modified ignition and the're runnin' sevens.  My
> point is why spend the time, effort and money to design something that won't
> do better that what is out there (cost and performance).  I'm not tryin' to
> be a pessimist, but can someone show me actual quicker quarter mile times or
> dyno tests.

     I agree with what you're saying.   For a drag car you probably don't 
need EST.   But in the real world we don't drive with the gas pedal in 
a binary state.  ;^>

     Part throttle advance and varying engine loads are not a part of a 
drag car, whereas they are on a street driven vehicle.   I'm looking into 
EST since I find the old tune-flog-tune-repeat cycle of setting an 
advance curve to be rather annoying.   It would be much easier to adjust 
it from inside the car.   You can also add modifiers for engine temp or 
other outside factors, something you cannot do with mechanical advance.

    As you pointed out, you can also have detonation control - here's one 
thing that would be good for a drag car, since detonation under boost or 
N20 is _*NOT*_ a good thing!   This can also compensate for varying 
qualities of gas - I know that if I fill up with Mobil, I've got to back 
off the advance so I don't ping, whereas the same grade of other 
gasolines DOES detonate.   

> PS Let the comments begin.

     Thank god this is a list and not a newsgroup... otherwise I would be 
advising you to get some abestos undershorts!

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--  
            "Hard Acceleration Saves Costly Aggravation"

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Dec 18 20:24:26 1995
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Date: Mon, 18 Dec 1995 15:20:19 -0500
Message-Id: <199512182020.PAA24313@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
From: Brad_Miller@so.xerox.com (Miller,Brad)
Subject: Re: <none>
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

Thanks to SBrady on this one.   I'm still kicking around the idea of 
 the "real" system -  with a fully programmable setup.  That would fix 
 my delimma - -- of course . . . just dropping in the V6 version into 
 this car would fix my power problems . . .  hmm . . . 

My other question is still sitting in the back of my mind - -  I'm 
 building a 2.5L motor - - but alas - - it doesn't have a turbo or fuel 
 injection . . . . yet . . . but I've seen some systems based upon what 
 I already have (dual Webers).  It'd be a straight forward blow-thru 
 system . . . hmm . . . that might be worth experimenting with . . . 
 I'll have to see how energetic I feel this summer/year.

Catch ya' all later!

Bradley Miller
Xerox Business Services, Kansas City
Midwest Shelby Dodge Automobile Club Inc.
Email: Brad_Miller@so.xerox.com
Alternate: Brad2dbone@aol.com





----------
<*>From: owner-diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
<*>To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
<*>Cc: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
<*>Subject: Re: <none>
<*>Date: Saturday, December 16, 1995 10:25AM
<*>
<*>Brad,
<*>
<*>You probably won't like what happens to the throttle response when you move
<*>the TBI unit to the end of a longer tuned manifold.  A dyno may or may not
<*>tell you that you're making more torque, but the seat of your pants will
<*>probably be disappointed.  You also may wind up with mixture distribution
<*>problems and horrible emissions because you're using a manifold that was not
<*>designed for wet flow.

---- SNIP ----

<*>
<*>The best advice I can give you though is to sell the car you have 
 and buy the
<*>turbo version.  Why try to make something almost as good as a factory turbo,
<*>when you can focus on improving the turbo version?  In general, turbo cars
<*>come with premium suspensions, brakes, upgraded cooling systems, upgraded
<*>engine components, transmissions etc.  The cost savings of starting with the
<*>cheaper car are an illusion, even if you don't value your time.  I'm 
 not sure
<*>what the emissions laws are in your end of the country, but if they have an
<*>inspection program the modifications you're considering will smoke 
 the resale
<*>value of the car.

Well --  actually this car already has all the upgraded stuff - - - the 
 only thing it's lacking is the V6 motor that it's brothers have.  (The 
 early predecessors had turbo-4's.)  This car has the suspension mods, 
 brakes, and even upgraded electrical system - - just not the other motor.

<*>
<*>If you don't have much money to spend, and want to really fly, buy a
<*>motorcycle.

Got one - -- 1971 Honda  . . . . it's a blast.   Plus - - my other car 
 (besides the daily driver) is the one I like to have fun and fly in . 
 . . just changing carb bought me ~1 second off quarter mile.  Not bad 
 for $450.

<*>
<*>Good Luck, and have fun with it whichever way you go.
<*>
<*>SBrady
<*>

Thanks again!

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Dec 18 21:24:06 1995
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Date: Mon, 18 Dec 95 15:22:00 CST
From: jgiles@chs.mb.ca (John Giles)
Message-Id: <9512182122.AA19615@chs.mb.ca>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Hi ! Just joined the list......
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu



Hello everyone. I'm an electriacl engineer and my main hobby is my corvette.
I want to drop fuel injection on it. I haven't looked too much at after market
stuff for this area so what kind of efi kits are out there that are good.

I'm looking for something that is adjustable and that I could re-program
once I get into it a little more. I'd also like to keep it under a couple
of grand.

What are some options?

Thanks in advance for any help.....

jgiles




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Dec 18 21:53:14 1995
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Date: Mon, 18 Dec 1995 13:49:00 -0800 (PST)
From: "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" <BZUBLIN@PO2.GI.COM>
Subject: Re: 67f687 chip ...
To: fridman <fridman@cpsc.ucalgary.ca>
Cc: "diy_efi (postings)" <DIY_EFI>
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>I put the postscript file in the diy_efi www pages.  Try:
>http://www.cpsc.ucalgary.ca/~fridman/diy_efi/component_info/
>        RF.

Robert,
Thanks for putting the files on the www page.  I was able to download and 
print the .ps file.  The datasheet is quite extensive (55 pages) - did you 
get the Postscript file direct from SSI?  By the way, I originally tried 
reading the .pdf file with Adobe's Acrobat Reader, but it said that the file 
was password protected.

Bryan Zublin
bzublin@gi.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 19 00:00:46 1995
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To: diy_efi
From: ws6transam@voyager.net (Daniel R Burk)
Subject: Re: ECM/PCM/VCM modifications
Cc: sravet@bangate.compaq.com
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

Steve: I wish you could have been there too.  I think you are onto something
when
you say that emissions changes could be made with simple black-box
techniques.  More
than likely it would come in the form of modifications to the Tech-1
diagnostic scan tool that GM sells to the dealership.  You are right too.
It is uncompetitive.

I have to admit, I went round and round with our nameless VCM engineer about
how it
was a rather unpopular and unwise path that GM was taking. His argument was
that if comeone wraps their supercharged, intercooled, computer-modified
Chevy Z28
around a tree at 168MPH, it will be GM that gets sued, not the aftermarket
manufacturers or the mechanic who installed all of this equipment.  I said
that was a rather cynical outlook, and that if GM suceeded in their attempt
to stop aftermarket tampering, that I would just go buy a Ford.  He said
Ford was doing the same thing.  I said I would then go buy a Mitsubishi, in
that case.

The intent (according to this engineer) it not just to prevent VCM
modifications, but to establish operating parameters for stock engines that
make it prohibitively expensive to modify.  Anything that would change the
net output of the powertrain (such as headers, modified intake tracts,
non-stock gear ratios, cylinder porting, etc.) could place the powertrain
outside it's programmed fuel map, causing an engine fault condition to be
stored.

Gee, if this was the old west, I'd feel kind of like I was buying a horse
that could only follow the wagon trail where everyone else has already gone.
Is trailblazing going to die?  I doubt it.  A few years of this cynical
thinking will prevail, then some automotive company ( Nissan? Chrysler?
Hyundai? ) will come out with this little ripper that is supported by a
million aftermarket suppliers.  Company supported modifications will make it
the fastest(and cheapest) darn thing on two wheels and thousands of
performance buffs will flock to a new badge.

-- Dan.
 

  
  


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 19 00:00:46 1995
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From: ws6transam@voyager.net (Daniel R Burk)
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Steve: I wish you could have been there too.  I think you are onto something
when
you say that emissions changes could be made with simple black-box
techniques.  More
than likely it would come in the form of modifications to the Tech-1
diagnostic scan tool that GM sells to the dealership.  You are right too.
It is uncompetitive.

I have to admit, I went round and round with our nameless VCM engineer about
how it
was a rather unpopular and unwise path that GM was taking. His argument was
that if comeone wraps their supercharged, intercooled, computer-modified
Chevy Z28
around a tree at 168MPH, it will be GM that gets sued, not the aftermarket
manufacturers or the mechanic who installed all of this equipment.  I said
that was a rather cynical outlook, and that if GM suceeded in their attempt
to stop aftermarket tampering, that I would just go buy a Ford.  He said
Ford was doing the same thing.  I said I would then go buy a Mitsubishi, in
that case.

The intent (according to this engineer) it not just to prevent VCM
modifications, but to establish operating parameters for stock engines that
make it prohibitively expensive to modify.  Anything that would change the
net output of the powertrain (such as headers, modified intake tracts,
non-stock gear ratios, cylinder porting, etc.) could place the powertrain
outside it's programmed fuel map, causing an engine fault condition to be
stored.

Gee, if this was the old west, I'd feel kind of like I was buying a horse
that could only follow the wagon trail where everyone else has already gone.
Is trailblazing going to die?  I doubt it.  A few years of this cynical
thinking will prevail, then some automotive company ( Nissan? Chrysler?
Hyundai? ) will come out with this little ripper that is supported by a
million aftermarket suppliers.  Company supported modifications will make it
the fastest(and cheapest) darn thing on two wheels and thousands of
performance buffs will flock to a new badge.

-- Dan.
 

  
  


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 19 02:32:42 1995
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>MTaylorfi@aol.com writes:
>> 
>> Now please don't get me wrong, but what is the point of going so ape over an
>> EST.  Top fuelers are using Magnetos and runnin' fours.  I see all kind of
>> rails at Bandimere speedway (1/4 mile track) that have either stock
>> electronic or minimumly modified ignition and the're runnin' sevens.  My
>> point is why spend the time, effort and money to design something that won't
>> do better that what is out there (cost and performance).  I'm not tryin' to
>> be a pessimist, but can someone show me actual quicker quarter mile times or
>> dyno tests.
>
>uhm, this ain't the dragrace list, dude.  For most of us the throttle
>has many more positions than ON and OFF.  Top fuelers run at WOT, near
>constant load and speed i believe.  They can't benefit from spark
>advance of any form.  My 68 Camaro's 350 on the other hand sees full throttle
>at any speed between 1800 RPM and 5500RPM...  and theres a significant
>difference in MBT timing for 1800RPM WOT and 5500RPM WOT on my motor.
>If I was just worried about WOT, tho, good ole mechanical advance would
>do everything I need.  But I spend a lot more time at part throttle on
>the street than I do at WOT.  And the difference between MBT timing
>at 1800RPM idling and 1800RPM WOT is MUCH larger than the difference
>between MBT timing at 1800RPM WOT and 5500RPM WOT.  SO it probably won't
>help your quarter mile...  but it'll sure help your idle, fuel economy,
>streetability, etc.
>

Well said, Johathan.

And here's a quote from my list of famous ones.  I'll post the rest if there 
is interest:

"But what ... is it good for?"
       --Engineer at the Advanced Computing Systems Division of IBM, 1968,
commenting on the microchip.

Unfortunately this is more of the same disease infecting NASCAR.  I guess 
there are good arguments against adding electronic controls, but when INDY 
Cars can get ~750 H.P. from ~3.5 liters well. . .
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
J.W. Harris                                          Delco Electronics Corp.
Project Engineer                                     One Corporate Center
Powertrain Electronics                               M.S. CT40C
                                                     Kokomo, IN 46904-9005
jwharris@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com

Of course, all responses are my own and should not be mistaken for those of
Delco Electronics or General Motors.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 19 02:36:30 1995
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     I'm currently building a Chev 350 for a HQ Monaro.  After a long 
     search I came up with the standard TPI system for the 85-89 Camaro's, 
     not only does this look good, but a 2nd hand system it's a lot cheaper 
     than any aftermarket system, and its also better than a throttle body 
     system.  All you need is a computer to run it, and there are lots of 
     those around ranging from AU$800 - AU$2500 depending on what you want. 
      I chose a AU$1400 system that allows for fuel and ignition mapping 
     (then I can always change ignition system) from a remote hand piece, 
     this way its easy to program the system.
     
     All up you can do this for about AU$3000, but if you are in the US you 
     are laughing since you don't have to pay import duty and freight on 
     everything.  hope I have been of help.
     
     
     Dan dzorde@aesprodata.com.au 


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Hi ! Just joined the list......
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
Date:    18/12/95 3:22 PM


     
Hello everyone. I'm an electriacl engineer and my main hobby is my corvette.
I want to drop fuel injection on it. I haven't looked too much at after market 
stuff for this area so what kind of efi kits are out there that are good.
     
I'm looking for something that is adjustable and that I could re-program 
once I get into it a little more. I'd also like to keep it under a couple 
of grand.
     
What are some options?
     
Thanks in advance for any help.....
     
jgiles
     
     
     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 19 02:42:25 1995
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To: diy_efi
From: jwharris@holli.com (J.W. Harris)
Subject: RE: Playing with the ECM
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>If someone like me, or you, or Hypertech, tries to gain access and change level
>three type of information in the new '97 VCM, and does not have the correct
>access code the FIRST TIME, the VCM will lock itself down into a
>non-functional unit that cannot be restarted except by engineers at Delco!!
>
Yes, I personally think OBDII is going to throw the aftermarket a really big 
curve.  Hacking into the box and reprogramming it is going to be harder 
still.  Removing the EEPROM and recalibrating it in such a way that no SES 
lights will be set will be even harder still.  I haven't heard anything 
about VCM's rendering themselvs useless with bad ClassII messages.  I think 
this one is wild speculation.  Any of you other Delco guys (or gals) care to 
comment?

On a lighter note at an SAE confrence on OBDII they were talking like 
manufacturers will be required to supply the hex scan codes for a particular 
parameters (TPS, etc.) right in the service manual.  It seems there is 
supposed to be a low cost "minimum function" scan tool that doesn't have 
them programmed in already.  The technician will have to enter the hex bytes 
by hand and the manual will tell how to interpret the response message.  
Tedious, but if it's true, a gold mine for you guys who want to make your 
own scan tools.  Anybody seen this in a '96 manual?  In the long run this 
stuff (Class II messages) will all probably become standard and public 
domain.  Except for the securtiy algorithms to unlock the box and reprogram, 
do device control, etc.  We can only hope.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
J.W. Harris                                          Delco Electronics Corp.
Project Engineer                                     One Corporate Center
Powertrain Electronics                               M.S. CT40C
                                                     Kokomo, IN 46904-9005
jwharris@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com

Of course, all responses are my own and should not be mistaken for those of
Delco Electronics or General Motors.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 19 05:02:14 1995
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Subject: Re: Hi ! Just joined the list......
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 1995 17:46:05 +1300 (NZDT)
In-Reply-To: <9512182122.AA19615@chs.mb.ca> from "John Giles" at Dec 18, 95 03:22:00 pm
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> Hello everyone. I'm an electriacl engineer .....

Somehow, you can tell.

:-)

Steve.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 19 07:12:54 1995
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From: Craig Pugsley <c.pugsley@trl.telstra.com.au>
Message-Id: <199512190709.SAA01833@shiva.trl.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: Motorcycle speed density systems
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 1995 18:09:10 +1100 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <199512080611.RAA03355@mullian.ee.mu.OZ.AU> from "robert dingli" at Dec 8, 95 05:11:06 pm
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> in refernce to Eds CCi article(s),

> I haven't been able to get hold of a copy in Australia.  Has anyone locally
> found a source?
Yeah, even the tech bookshop/Mc Gills (melb) don't carry this from what
I've seen.

Can you order a photocopy of the articles from Curcuit cellar, or do you
have to get the whole set of 3 issues? (Or, who owns the copyright of
the article... hint hint ;-)

Cheers,
Craig.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 19 07:16:52 1995
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Date: Tue, 19 Dec 95 09:16:59 EST
From: Ed Lansinger <elansi01@mpg.gmpt.gmeds.com>
Subject: Re: All the EST 
To: diy_efi
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> Now please don't get me wrong, but what is the point of going so ape over an
> EST.  Top fuelers are using Magnetos and runnin' fours.  I see all kind of
> rails at Bandimere speedway (1/4 mile track) that have either stock
> electronic or minimumly modified ignition and the're runnin' sevens.  My
> point is why spend the time, effort and money to design something that won't
> do better that what is out there (cost and performance).  I'm not tryin' to
> be a pessimist, but can someone show me actual quicker quarter mile times or
> dyno tests.

Part of this argument is predicated on the assumption that the absence of EST
in Top Fuel drag racing is because it's not the best thing.  As I understand it,
EST is specifically disallowed there, so we really don't know if EST is worse
or no better for this application than the systems mentioned.  My guess is that
this is yet another attempt by the sanctioning bodies to "control costs"
or "keep things competitive" as we have seen in many (too many?) other
series.  (I suspect that this viewpoint results from marketing being
influenced by technical ignorance or prejudice.)

I read an article once (don't remember the source) about the ignition systems
used in Top Fuel.  One team spent $50,000 just to get reliable spark delivery
and timing.  The engineer they hired used special materials for the points and
rigged a system to flood the system with CO2 during the run, presumably to
reduce pitting or perhaps to allow higher voltages.

Reliable high speed ignition is tough enough in a normal engine and must be
many times tougher in Top Fuel.  You probably need enourmous spark energies
at those boost levels and insane air/fuel ratios.  It's really
tough to get such energies out of traditional mechanical systems due to
inherent limitations.  It seems much easier to get these energies
out of modern electronic systems.

Maybe you don't need varying spark advance, but it seems to me you need
consistent advance.  With bouncing points and torsional vibrations in a
distributor, this becomes a problem; not insoluble, just tough.  EST would
solve that problem easily.  Plus, I don't think one should so casually
ignore the initial 0.5 second when engine speed is changing; maybe
you could pick up another 0.05 there by having a flexible and more
accurate advance system.  That could win a championship.

Just another guess, but I'm wondering if the reason RPM (and thus horsepower)
isn't higher in Top Fuel engines is in part due to an RPM limitation
of the ignition system.  Again, something easily solved with EST.

Ideal spark advance as well as spark energy in normal engines varies with
manifold pressure and fuel/air ratio.  Although the combustion process
with nitromethane is quite different, I'll bet there are parallels.
In a Top Fuel dragster, you have manifold pressure variations as the
engine spins up and as you get more ram-air at higher speeds.  You also
get air/fuel variations due to the acceleration throwing the fuel and air
toward the rear cylinders, which also changes over the course of the run.
I think the situation is a lot less steady-state than it initially appears.
EST would be a nice way to take care of these things.

Having some intelligence on board could really help things, I would think.  You've
only got something like 2,000-2,500 cylinder firings during the run, so every one
better count.  Just thinking off the top of my head, you could do some nice
misfire detection, at least for diagnostic purposes.  Maybe you could have
an advanced misfire recovery algorithm, like do a flood clear on the
next revolution so you can recover sooner.  There's no reason a properly
controlled system should be spraying streams of nitrous out the pipes, as you
see quite frequently.

Weather conditions change over the course of a day, and if you could account for
some of this automatically and accurately you'd have an advantage.

The Holy Grail is, of course, traction control, which was tried (sorry I'm
forgetting which team) and was so successful it was banned.  So now
I understand they achieve largely the same thing by a pneumatically
operated progressive clutch that limits delivered torque by a pre-programmed
series of clutch plate engagements.  Pneumatic or electronic, it's still a
computer executing an algorithm, so I don't know why it is allowed and a
microcontroller you would find on any new car isn't.

If you haven't guessed by now, I have *no* experience with Top Fuel, so
please feel free to correct me as necessary.

Ed Lansinger
GM Powertrain Premium V (Northstar/Aurora) Software & Calibration Group






From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 19 07:53:35 1995
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Date: Tue, 19 Dec 95 10:20:13 EST
From: Ed Lansinger <elansi01@mpg.gmpt.gmeds.com>
Subject: Re: ECM/PCM/VCM modifications 
To: diy_efi
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Dan Burk wrote:

>I said
>that was a rather cynical outlook, and that if GM suceeded in their attempt
>to stop aftermarket tampering, that I would just go buy a Ford.  He said
>Ford was doing the same thing.  I said I would then go buy a Mitsubishi, in
>that case.
>
>The intent (according to this engineer) it not just to prevent VCM
>modifications, but to establish operating parameters for stock engines that
>make it prohibitively expensive to modify.

Part of the reason is that new government regulations *require* the
automakers (all of them) to implement strategies that prevent anyone from
changing the code in the ECM/PCM/VCM.

Souping up cars is one way that people enjoy these products.  It's especially
nice because it tends to make the product more visible.  These facts are not
lost on the automakers (especially since they are populated by a bunch of car
nuts frequently working on their own side projects).

The problem is that nobody has yet figured out a way to make a car that the
customer can modify *and* comply with all the new regulations.
If that wasn't an issue, it would probably come down to warranty and
liability concerns, which have never before incited the industry to attempt
such extreme measures.  As it is, nobody really has the resources to
put the time into figuring out this problem, especially to address such
a small segment of the market.

That's where the aftermarket can step in.  It's going to be a real challenge
for them, both technically and legally.

The thought of not being able to toy with my car breaks my heart.

Ed Lansinger
GM Powertrain Premium V (Northstar/Aurora) Software & Calibration Group

* The writing above comprises my personal opinions only and does not reflect an
official or unoffical position of my employer. *




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 19 08:04:07 1995
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Date: Tue, 19 Dec 95 10:48:50 EST
From: Ed Lansinger <elansi01@mpg.gmpt.gmeds.com>
Subject: CCI article (was Motorcycle Speed Density Systems) 
To: diy_efi
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Craig Pugsley wrote:

>> in refernce to Eds CCi article(s),
>
>> I haven't been able to get hold of a copy in Australia.  Has anyone locally
>> found a source?
>Yeah, even the tech bookshop/Mc Gills (melb) don't carry this from what
>I've seen.
>
>Can you order a photocopy of the articles from Curcuit cellar, or do you
>have to get the whole set of 3 issues? (Or, who owns the copyright of
>the article... hint hint ;-)

You can order back issues from Circuit Cellar.  I don't think you can
order article reprints, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't ask.

Just out of curiousity, is the price of these things really an issue,
or is it more the availability?

CCI now owns the copyright to the article (sorry...).

I'd like to recommend to anyone having difficulty, especially those
overseas, that you may want to voice your concerns directly to the
Editor-in-Chief, Ken Davidson (Ken.Davidson@circellar.com).

Ed Lansinger



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 19 08:27:34 1995
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From: Craig Pugsley <c.pugsley@trl.telstra.com.au>
Message-Id: <199512190823.TAA03730@shiva.trl.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: CCI article (was Motorcycle Speed Density Systems)
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 1995 19:23:37 +1100 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <Chameleon.4.01.951219105924.elansi01@ctlp0161.MPG.GMPT.GMEDS.COM> from "Ed Lansinger" at Dec 19, 95 10:48:50 am
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> You can order back issues from Circuit Cellar.  I don't think you can
> order article reprints, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't ask.
> 
> Just out of curiousity, is the price of these things really an issue,
> or is it more the availability?

Availability mainly.. Also I'm a cheapskate ;-)

I just came back from a US trip and had a warm glow when I saw the (last
part of the) article seeing the diy_efi and 332 lists printed at the
end.. Sure made the world seem a lot smaller.

Cheers,
Craig.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 19 08:42:14 1995
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Date: Tue, 19 Dec 95 16:01:01 
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re[2]: Hi ! Just joined the list......
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     This is great, common replies to the main system is much easier than 
     answering everyone seperately.
     
     First of all, for those who don't know, a HQ Monaro (4 door) is 
     probably the equivalent of a 73' Camaro, in fact I think GMH may have 
     got a lot of design help from GM.
     
     Anyway, I haven't fitted it yet, but hope to have it all done by mid 
     Jan 96 (have to wait for my holidays).
     
     I chose the Wolf 3D system, basically because it was cheaper than the 
     others like Motec, Haltec, Injec, EMC, etc. etc. etc.
     
     They basically all have the same features, fuel mapping, ignition 
     mapping (usually only on the more expensive versions), throttle 
     injector cut off when cranking, accelerator enrichment, barometric 
     pressure compensation, injector current control, air temp 
     compensation, MAP or TPS sensing, cranking fuel rate, rev limiter, 
     cold enrichment, staged injection, turbo facility, post start 
     enrichment, EFI pump shut down.
     
     Basically, unlike most others where a lap top is required to program 
     the computer, this system has a remote hand piece with 4 line 16 char 
     LCD and a number of buttons that lets you do all the programming.  
     Multiple programs can be set up so that you can instantly change to 
     them while you drive by selecting a new program from the hand piece.  
     The hand piece can be removed if not required, but it does display a 
     number of useful things while you drive, RPM, injector pulse width, 
     air temp, water temp, mixture indicator, throttle position, manifold 
     vacuum, voltage, etc.
     
     I don't think it is any better than the other brands, apart from the 
     analogue systems, except that is is cheaper.  All the features are 
     basically the same.  I hope this has explained everything.
     
     
     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au  


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Hi ! Just joined the list......
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
Date:    19/12/95 10:35 AM


     I'm currently building a Chev 350 for a HQ Monaro.  After a long 
     search I came up with the standard TPI system for the 85-89 Camaro's, 
     not only does this look good, but a 2nd hand system it's a lot cheaper 
     than any aftermarket system, and its also better than a throttle body 
     system.  All you need is a computer to run it, and there are lots of 
     those around ranging from AU$800 - AU$2500 depending on what you want. 
      I chose a AU$1400 system that allows for fuel and ignition mapping 
     (then I can always change ignition system) from a remote hand piece, 
     this way its easy to program the system.
     
     All up you can do this for about AU$3000, but if you are in the US you 
     are laughing since you don't have to pay import duty and freight on 
     everything.  hope I have been of help.
     
     
     Dan dzorde@aesprodata.com.au 
     
     
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Hi ! Just joined the list......
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET 
Date:    18/12/95 3:22 PM
     
     
     
Hello everyone. I'm an electriacl engineer and my main hobby is my corvette.
I want to drop fuel injection on it. I haven't looked too much at after market 
stuff for this area so what kind of efi kits are out there that are good.
     
I'm looking for something that is adjustable and that I could re-program 
once I get into it a little more. I'd also like to keep it under a couple 
of grand.
     
What are some options?
     
Thanks in advance for any help.....
     
jgiles
     
     
     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 19 10:05:57 1995
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: 67f687 chip ...
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 1995 19:36:28
Cc: adennison@swin.edu.au
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In article  "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" <BZUBLIN@PO2.GI.COM> writes:
>>67f687.pdf   (binary)
>>67f687.ps    (ascii)
>>67f687.zip   (binary)

>Andrew,
>Are these files also on the WWW page?  I don't have access to ftp.  Maybe 
>you could just email me the 67f687.pdf file.

I'm away for 3 weeks (with remote mail access) remind me in January. There are 
email servers for ftp access.

Andrew

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 19 11:47:21 1995
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From: Derrick Early <early@finite.nrl.navy.mil>
Subject: Carb vs. FI
To: DIY_EFI (diy_efi)
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 95 6:43:56 "EST
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Has anyone read the Hot Rod article about Carb vs FI?  What were the
conclusions to the article?  The title said something like the "dyno knows."

Yours,
--
Derrick Early
early@finite.nrl.navy.mil

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 19 12:28:57 1995
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From: c1ilep@eng.delcoelect.com (Lawrence E. Piekarski)
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Subject: Re: Playing with the ECM
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 1995 07:22:32 -0500 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <m0tRrrc-0009mtC@walnut.holli.com> from "J.W. Harris" at Dec 18, 95 09:33:00 pm
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>
>>If someone like me, or you, or Hypertech, tries to gain access and change level
>>three type of information in the new '97 VCM, and does not have the correct
>>access code the FIRST TIME, the VCM will lock itself down into a
>>non-functional unit that cannot be restarted except by engineers at Delco!!
>>
>Yes, I personally think OBDII is going to throw the aftermarket a really big 
>curve.  Hacking into the box and reprogramming it is going to be harder 
>still.  Removing the EEPROM and recalibrating it in such a way that no SES 
>lights will be set will be even harder still.  I haven't heard anything 
>about VCM's rendering themselvs useless with bad ClassII messages.  I think 
>this one is wild speculation.  Any of you other Delco guys (or gals) care to 
>comment?

I have heard that also. I don't think a bad Class II message would cause it to
lock up, but there were two different modes that would cause the device to 
set a code that would disable fuel and could not be cleared by the dealer.
On was if it failed ROM checksum. I can't remember the other. I thought that
requirement was one of the more advanced OBDII requirements. I haven't worked 
with the stuff in over a year, so maybe it's changed. It seemed there was
a lot of waffling on the issue a year ago, so there probably still is.

I guess CARB was upset that people just drove around with a bad sensor and the
check engine light on. They want to disable fuel under certain conditions to
FORCE your to take your car in. In 1984, Big Brother was watching, in 1997
he drives your car.
-- 
(* Larry Piekarski, Lead Software Engineer *)
(*      Luxury Car HVAC Display Heads      *)
(*      lepiekar@mail.delcoelect.com       *)
(*      Delco Electronics, Kokomo, IN      *)

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 19 13:37:41 1995
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Date: Tue, 19 Dec 1995 08:30:18 EDT
From: "Nietzsche is dead. -God" <hofmann@uhavax.hartford.edu>
To: diy_efi
Message-ID: <0099B174.B128E3A0.33@uhavax.hartford.edu>
Subject: RE: BKM's box?
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Hmm...  Funny you should ask.  I have been corresponding with Dave Steinmeyer
for a while now on thier 8096 box.  I am working on the Formula SAE racing team
here at the University of Hartfoed and this is the first year that we're trying
to do an efi.  

	The controller itself is an Intel 8096...  a beast of a microcontroller.If you have any questions, e-mail me.  I have his # and address, but I don't
know if he wants me to put it in cyberspace.  It was hard enogh to get the 
info, though and I would rather save you the time.

		--Mark

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 19 13:43:33 1995
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From: "Viv Vendeirinho @ A.S.D. - South Africa" <asdviv@iafrica.com>
To: diy_efi
Date:          Tue, 19 Dec 1995 15:44:03 +0200
Subject:       RCPT: EFI332 Project
Priority: normal
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Confirmation of reading: your message -

    Date:    28 Nov 95  8:46
    To:      diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
    Subject: EFI332 Project

Was read at 15:04, 19 Dec 95.

========================================================
Vivian Rato-Vendeirinho
Motorola Line Manager
Advanced Semiconductor Devices
Johannesburg, SOUTH AFRICA
Voice: +27-11-444-2333      Fax: +27-11-444-1706
Email: asdviv@iafrica.com
========================================================

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 19 17:27:10 1995
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From: Derrick Early <early@finite.nrl.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: BKM's box?
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 95 12:22:49 "EST
In-Reply-To: <0099B174.B128E3A0.33@uhavax.hartford.edu>; from "Nietzsche is dead. -God" at Dec 19, 95 8:30 am
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> Hmm...  Funny you should ask.  I have been corresponding with Dave Steinmeyer
> for a while now on thier 8096 box.  I am working on the Formula SAE racing team
> here at the University of Hartfoed and this is the first year that we're trying
> to do an efi.  
> 
> 	The controller itself is an Intel 8096...  a beast of a microcontroller.If you have any questions, e-mail me.  I have his # and address, but I don't
> know if he wants me to put it in cyberspace.  It was hard enogh to get the 
> info, though and I would rather save you the time.

Mark,

I had a hard time finding Nietzsche's email address. :)  Yes, I would like 
to contact Dave S.  I may have an interesting application for his box.
Please email to me directly when you have a chance.

--
Derrick Early
early@finite.nrl.navy.mil

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 19 21:44:02 1995
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Date: Tue, 19 Dec 1995 13:36:41 -0800
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Reference information about Knock Sensors
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I would appreciate it if one of you in the know can point me to a 
good reference work that covers the function of the knock sensor.
I am interested in knowing if they are tuned for particular freq-
uencies, and such.  They appear to be very much like ceramic ele-
ment microphones ... is there any signal processing circuitry on 
the sensor, or is the processing done in the ECU?  

TIA!
Steve Buchholz
s_buchho@kla.com
San Jose, CA (USA)

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 19 23:06:41 1995
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From: robert dingli <r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Message-Id: <199512192305.KAA27991@mullian.ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: Reference information about Knock Sensors
To: diy_efi
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 10:05:06 +1100 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <199512192136.NAA04343@sled> from "steveb@newkla.kla.com" at Dec 19, 95 01:36:41 pm
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Steve Buchholz asks,
> 
> I would appreciate it if one of you in the know can point me to a 
> good reference work that covers the function of the knock sensor.
> I am interested in knowing if they are tuned for particular freq-
> uencies, and such.  They appear to be very much like ceramic ele-
> ment microphones ... is there any signal processing circuitry on 
> the sensor, or is the processing done in the ECU?  
> 

There are several SAE references on the topic although you may have to
go back a few years to find references to articles about products which
have been available for many years now.  A relatively recent article
(SAE 940146) describes various signal processing methods within the ECU
and comes to the conclusion that a band pass filter coupled with a time
window for sampling is the best choice.  Determining a suitable reference
or threshold to distinguish between background noise and dangerous knock
is the difficult part.

You could try contacting Bosch and/or Nippondenso to get technical 
information on their products.  I know that Bosch, at least, make sensors
which inherently band pass filter the signal mechanically as well as
broad band sensors.  In either case, further filtering would be required
within the ECU.

regards,

Robert

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
             Robert Dingli           r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Power and Control Systems                 Thermodynamics Research Lab
Electrical Engineering                    Mechanical Engineering
   (+613) 9344 7966                          (+613) 9344 6728
  University of Melbourne, Parkville, 3052, Victoria, AUSTRALIA
----------------------------------------------------------------------


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From: Craig Pugsley <c.pugsley@trl.telstra.com.au>
Message-Id: <199512192323.KAA10079@shiva.trl.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: 67f687 chip ...
To: diy_efi
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 10:23:06 +1100 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <adennison.21.00139C2A@swin.edu.au> from "adennison@swin.edu.au" at Dec 19, 95 07:36:28 pm
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> 
> In article  "Zublin, Bryan (SD-MS)" <BZUBLIN@PO2.GI.COM> writes:
> >>67f687.pdf   (binary)
> >>67f687.ps    (ascii)
> >>67f687.zip   (binary)
> 
> >Andrew,
> >Are these files also on the WWW page?  I don't have access to ftp.  Maybe 
> >you could just email me the 67f687.pdf file.
> 
> I'm away for 3 weeks (with remote mail access) remind me in January. There are 
> email servers for ftp access.

Those files are on the web page (and the .pdf worked for me too BTW- how
do they cram 55 pages of data book into 250k??) Unfortunately I can't
find the web page ref just now but a postscript version is at

http://www.cpsc.ucalgary.ca:80/~fridman/diy_efi/component_info/component_info.html

Cheers,
Craig.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec 20 00:25:52 1995
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From: jwharris@holli.com (J.W. Harris)
Subject: Re: Playing with the ECM
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>On was if it failed ROM checksum. I can't remember the other. I thought that

Yeah, I forgot about this one if it fails the first checksum on startup, the 
injectors will be inhibited.  Changing one bit will cause it to fail.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
J.W. Harris                                          Delco Electronics Corp.
Project Engineer                                     One Corporate Center
Powertrain Electronics                               M.S. CT40C
                                                     Kokomo, IN 46904-9005
jwharris@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com

Of course, all responses are my own and should not be mistaken for those of
Delco Electronics or General Motors.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec 20 01:52:09 1995
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>
>
>Hello everyone. I'm an electriacl engineer and my main hobby is my corvette.
>I want to drop fuel injection on it. I haven't looked too much at after market
>stuff for this area so what kind of efi kits are out there that are good.
>
>I'm looking for something that is adjustable and that I could re-program
>once I get into it a little more. I'd also like to keep it under a couple
>of grand.
>
>What are some options?
>
>Thanks in advance for any help.....
>
>jgiles
>
>
>
>
>
MR. Giles
I will be selling a low cost system soon that is easy to use.  The first
system will be fuel only, but later I will add an ignition control.  And
later next year I will have a full sequential injection and ignition system.
For info, Email me.

David J. Doddek                                          |pantera@dris.com
Owner SGD Electronics & Development Engr for Caterpillar |h 309 685-7965
Formula SAE Team Sidewinder 94-95                        |w 309 578-2931
89 T-bird SC,  69 Fairlane w/SGD EFI                     |fx 217 428-4686
74 Pantera w/Electromitive Tec-II Twin turbos and Nitros |
Hey, If you are going to go fast, go REEEAAL FAST.       |


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec 20 02:25:28 1995
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Message-Id: <Chameleon.951219192133.jac@1432.wave.sheridan.wy.us>
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 95 19:00:22 PST
From: jac@wave.sheridan.wy.us (john carroll)
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Knock sensing
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Harris Semiconductor makes a wonderful knock sensor processor, HIP9010.

I use it in an aircraft engine ignition controller that I build.  It is the only way that I have 
been able to hear throught all the banging and slapping that goes on in one of those 
lightly built engines under normal conditions.  It will allow you to watch a narrow 
frequency band and compare it to the realtive power in another band.  You can switch 
back and forth between different physical sensors between ignition pulses and even 
switch bands before and after each spark event to watch different frequencies.

The device puts out an analog signal to indicate relative power.  You set the gain 
for each of the comparison channels  After using it in the analog mode for a while I 
figured out that it is better and faster to set the gain and use it as a binary input instead 
of doing an analog conversion each time.  I use it with aftermarker GM style sensors.  
About any thing would work.

A clever person could build a device that would make good use of this part.  I have 
considered a system that would monitor and record transmission and gear noises on 
heavy equipment.  If things begin to change rapidly it could signal for a shut down.

You can get a data sheet from their fax back system at 407/742-3937.  some one 
needs to buy a bunch of these so that they do not go the way of the 
Silicons Systems device.

I would like to communicate with any one that has experience with this device.

John Carroll 
307 674-8469


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec 20 03:37:28 1995
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Message-Id: <199512200333.TAA16865@ix6.ix.netcom.com>
From: arthurok@ix.netcom.com (ARTHUR OKUN )
Subject: Re: Playing with the ECM
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You wrote: 
>
>>
>>>If someone like me, or you, or Hypertech, tries to gain access and 
change level
>>>three type of information in the new '97 VCM, and does not have the 
correct
>>>access code the FIRST TIME, the VCM will lock itself down into a
>>>non-functional unit that cannot be restarted except by engineers at 
Delco!!
>>>
>>Yes, I personally think OBDII is going to throw the aftermarket a 
really big 
>>curve.  Hacking into the box and reprogramming it is going to be 
harder 
>>still.  Removing the EEPROM and recalibrating it in such a way that 
no SES 
>>lights will be set will be even harder still.  I haven't heard 
anything 
>>about VCM's rendering themselvs useless with bad ClassII messages.  I 
think 
>>this one is wild speculation.  Any of you other Delco guys (or gals) 
care to 
>>comment?
>
>I have heard that also. I don't think a bad Class II message would 
cause it to
>lock up, but there were two different modes that would cause the 
device to 
>set a code that would disable fuel and could not be cleared by the 
dealer.
>On was if it failed ROM checksum. I can't remember the other. I 
thought that
>requirement was one of the more advanced OBDII requirements. I haven't 
worked 
>with the stuff in over a year, so maybe it's changed. It seemed there 
was
>a lot of waffling on the issue a year ago, so there probably still is.
>
>I guess CARB was upset that people just drove around with a bad sensor 
and the
>check engine light on. They want to disable fuel under certain 
conditions to
>FORCE your to take your car in. In 1984, Big Brother was watching, in 
1997
>he drives your car.
>-- 
>(* Larry Piekarski, Lead Software Engineer *)
>(*      Luxury Car HVAC Display Heads      *)
>(*      lepiekar@mail.delcoelect.com       *)
>(*      Delco Electronics, Kokomo, IN      *)
>
remember seatbelt starter interlocks  ;  the gov. finally allowed them 
to be dissconnected.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec 20 05:11:03 1995
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Date: Tue, 19 Dec 95 21:56:56 PST
From: jac@wave.sheridan.wy.us (john carroll)
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Knock sensing
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I really got an immediate flood of communication about knock sensing.  I have a 
project that MUST be done in the next few days.  Between Christmas and the new 
year I will put together a description of my use the 9010.  Get the data sheet and 
study it.  It is necessary to buy a bunch of the things at a time.  I have a few but do 
not want to be without.  I will fine out a minimum purchase and cost.  Could put 
together a group buy. 


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  John
  Would you please confirm the phone number for the Harris fax back on the
  HIP9010 part.  I am getting a disconnected phone with the number given on
  19 Dec.
  Thanks
   Ron Hoyt

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec 20 22:36:31 1995
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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 17:27:13 -0500
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Hi ! Just joined the list......
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

In a message dated 95-12-19 21:15:39 EST, you write:

>I will be selling a low cost system soon that is easy to use.  The first
>system will be fuel only, but later I will add an ignition control.  And
>later next year I will have a full sequential injection and ignition system.
>For info, Email me.
>
>David J. Doddek                                          |pantera@dris.com

Mr. Doddek-

I might be interested in your fuel only low cost FI system.  What is your
expected price when it comes available, and how will it compare
control/feature-wise to, say, the Electromotive TEC-II (which I am puttting
in an other car)?  Both cars are 4 cylinders.

Thanks,

Bonn Macy


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec 20 22:58:30 1995
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	id AA18273; Wed, 20 Dec 95 16:52:44 CST
Date: Wed, 20 Dec 95 16:52:44 CST
From: jgiles@chs.mb.ca (John Giles)
Message-Id: <9512202252.AA18273@chs.mb.ca>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Getting started on EFI
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu



well I'm hooked !!!!!!

I've looked over the web site and I'm impressed with what yuz guys are
doing with EFI.

I have a macroscopic understanding of EFI and would like to understand
it in a more detail before I start blowing lots of coin on manifolds,
sensors, and electronics so could someone please recommend a good book
that I could read to get started. Maybe something like EFI for
dummies -)

Thanks in advance !!!

jgiles

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec 20 23:42:46 1995
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From: robert dingli <r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Message-Id: <199512202334.KAA23812@mullian.ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: Getting started on EFI
To: diy_efi
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 1995 10:34:15 +1100 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <9512202252.AA18273@chs.mb.ca> from "John Giles" at Dec 20, 95 04:52:44 pm
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John Giles asks,
> 
> I have a macroscopic understanding of EFI and would like to understand
> it in a more detail before I start blowing lots of coin on manifolds,
> sensors, and electronics so could someone please recommend a good book
> that I could read to get started. Maybe something like EFI for
> dummies -)
> 

Bosch have released a very good book on automotive electronics which
covers most of their efi systems from the early K-Jetronic to the later
Motronic.  I can't remember the exact title, but it is something simple
like "Automotive Electronics" and has a red plastic cover.  It is 
available from the SAE (at least locally).

Robert Dingli

-- 
----------------------------------------------------------------------
             Robert Dingli           r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Power and Control Systems                 Thermodynamics Research Lab
Electrical Engineering                    Mechanical Engineering
   (+613) 9344 7966                          (+613) 9344 6728
  University of Melbourne, Parkville, 3052, Victoria, AUSTRALIA
----------------------------------------------------------------------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Dec 21 01:22:09 1995
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Date: Wed, 20 Dec 1995 19:15:26 -0600
From: Doug Rorem <rorem@mana.eecs.uic.edu>
Subject: RE: Knock sensing
To: diy_efi
Message-Id: <rorem-9511210115.AA000123836@mana.eecs.uic.edu>
In-Reply-To:  <"0310530D85BF9001*/c=us/admd= /prmd=ceridian/o=cdev/ou=cc-lan/ou=cchsgate/s=HOYT/g=RONALD/i=R/"@MHS>
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

>  John
>  Would you please confirm the phone number for the Harris fax back on the
>  HIP9010 part.  I am getting a disconnected phone with the number given on
>  19 Dec.
>  Thanks
>   Ron Hoyt

Ron,

 Harris has a web site also. The URL for the HIP9010 datasheets is:
http://www.semi.harris.com/datasheets/ip/hip9010/

 The phone # that I have for their fax-back system is 407-724-7800.
The document # for the HIP9010 is 3601.


--
Doug Rorem
University of Illinois at Chicago         (312)-996-5439  [voice]
EECS Department  RM 1120                  (312)-413-1065  [fax]
851 S. Morgan Street                      (708)-996-2226  [pager]
Chicago, IL 60607-7053                    rorem@uic.edu

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Dec 21 13:45:57 1995
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Getting started on EFI 
In-Reply-To: Your message of "Thu, 21 Dec 95 10:34:15 +1100."
             <199512202334.KAA23812@mullian.ee.mu.OZ.AU> 
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 95 08:36:16 -0500
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> Bosch have released a very good book on automotive electronics which
> covers most of their efi systems from the early K-Jetronic to the later
> Motronic.  I can't remember the exact title, but it is something simple
> like "Automotive Electronics" and has a red plastic cover.  It is 
> available from the SAE (at least locally).

I just bought a copy of this.  The title is Automotive Electric/Electronic
Systems.  I purchased it through SAE for US$39.  The blue Automotive 
Handbook (US$34) is very good too.

You can get in touch with SAE at:

   Society of Automotive Engineers
   400 Commonwealth Drive
   Warrendale, PA  15096-001  USA


---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Anthony Tsakiris        |   Internet:  tsakiris@ed8200.ped.pto.ford.com
Powertrain Electronics  |      PROFS:  atsakiri
Ford Motor Company      |        VAX:  eee1::tsakiris
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
The opinions expressed are my own and not necessarily those of my employer.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec 22 01:17:58 1995
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From: Kent Sullivan <kentsu@microsoft.com>
To: "DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu" <DIY_EFI>
Subject: General question
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 1995 17:10:57 -0800
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Hi,

I just joined the list to see what you-all are talking about.  I scanned 
your Web site, and it looks like you're taking "Do It Yourself" very 
seriously--building systems from scratch.

Is there any discussion on this list of aftermarket "boxed" systems? 
 (Putting a system in a car which didn't have one from the factory is 
sort-of "do it yourself", which is what I'm interested in doing.)  I'm 
particularly interested in anything you have to say about the Haltech 
systems.

Thanks,

--Kent


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec 22 02:43:54 1995
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From: dzorde@aesprodata.com.au
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     I found Haltech too expensive when I was looking for one, there are a 
     lot of equivalent systems around that are cheaper.
     
     
     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: General question
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
Date:    22/12/95 10:40 AM


Hi,
     
I just joined the list to see what you-all are talking about.  I scanned 
your Web site, and it looks like you're taking "Do It Yourself" very 
seriously--building systems from scratch.
     
Is there any discussion on this list of aftermarket "boxed" systems? 
 (Putting a system in a car which didn't have one from the factory is 
sort-of "do it yourself", which is what I'm interested in doing.)  I'm 
particularly interested in anything you have to say about the Haltech 
systems.
     
Thanks,
     
--Kent
     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec 22 03:06:06 1995
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From: Jim Pearl <JVP@qsi.com>
To: "DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <DIY_EFI>
Subject: RE: General question
Date: Thu, 21 Dec 1995 21:56:23 -0600
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I too must echo this sentiment! I am the current owner of a DFI box on a =
twin turbo 5.0 Mustang and am looking for others with experience with =
this box. A book I have to recommend for all (including Haltech) is the =
book "Fuel Injection" put out by MotorBook International. it's actually =
got up to date info! Wow!

P.S. what Haltech? They don't control fuel do they? Do the log like the =
DFI?

----------
>From: 	Kent Sullivan[SMTP:kentsu@microsoft.com]
Sent: 	Thursday, December 21, 1995 7:10 PM
To: 	DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	General question

Hi,

I just joined the list to see what you-all are talking about.  I scanned =

your Web site, and it looks like you're taking "Do It Yourself" very=20
seriously--building systems from scratch.

Is there any discussion on this list of aftermarket "boxed" systems?=20
 (Putting a system in a car which didn't have one from the factory is=20
sort-of "do it yourself", which is what I'm interested in doing.)  I'm=20
particularly interested in anything you have to say about the Haltech=20
systems.

Thanks,

--Kent




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec 22 04:22:10 1995
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Date: Thu, 21 Dec 1995 23:14:07 -0500
To: diy_efi
From: orin@nr.infi.net (Orin B. Harding)
Subject: Re: General question
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I'm also new to the list and have almost the same questions for the others on the site.
I have attempted to install a Bosch LU Jetronic system on a MGB ('79) and found that while it would run OK when warm, I never could get it to cold idle well.  I finally have given up on this and am going to install the Electromotive TEC II system.

I talked to Haltec and I felt that they were not very, how should I say it, "friendly"..A real turn off over the phone..They may have a great system, but don't know how to deal with the public.  Electromotive was helpful and I really like the direct fire ignition feature included in the TEC II for about the same cost as the Haltec F8.


>Hi,
>     
>I just joined the list to see what you-all are talking about.  I scanned 
>your Web site, and it looks like you're taking "Do It Yourself" very 
>seriously--building systems from scratch.
>     
>Is there any discussion on this list of aftermarket "boxed" systems? 
> (Putting a system in a car which didn't have one from the factory is 
>sort-of "do it yourself", which is what I'm interested in doing.)  I'm 
>particularly interested in anything you have to say about the Haltech 
>systems.
>     
>Thanks,
>     
>--Kent
>     
>
>
Orin Harding - Greensboro, NC
('74 MGB-GT - '79 MGB Roadster - '95 3000GT, BRG of course!)


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec 22 05:11:36 1995
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>Bonn Macy wrote:

I might be interested in your fuel only low cost FI system.  What is your
>expected price when it comes available, and how will it compare
>control/feature-wise to, say, the Electromotive TEC-II (which I am puttting
>in an other car)?  Both cars are 4 cylinders.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bonn Macy

Bonn: to keep traffic down on the mailing  list please send me your personal
E-mail address.  I'll then send you the info.



David J. Doddek                                          |pantera@dris.com
Owner SGD Electronics & Development Engr for Caterpillar |h 309 685-7965
Formula SAE Team Sidewinder 94-95                        |w 309 578-2931
89 T-bird SC,  69 Fairlane w/SGD EFI                     |fx 217 428-4686
74 Pantera w/Electromitive Tec-II Twin turbos and Nitros |
Hey, If you are going to go fast, go REEEAAL FAST.       |


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec 22 08:08:03 1995
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From: Utgarhoth@aol.com
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Message-ID: <951222030412_77446098@mail02.mail.aol.com>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Greetings!
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My name is Andrew Broadhurst, and I am an engineer who enjoys speculating
about and building high-output fuel injected V8 engines.  My particular
weakness is for Mopar engines; currently I am building a supercharged 273
using a modified single-plane manifold with port injectors and a Haltech F9R
controller.  My previous project was a '69 Dodge Dart with a 383 and Holly
Projection throttle-body injection, which has now alas moved on to another
owner.

I am currently in the planning stages of my next machine, a '71 Dodge Demon
340.  I have been considering either designing a microcontroller-implemented
control system myself or using a total engine management system, such as the
Electromotive injection/ignition control system.  Does anyone have any
experience with the Electromotive system?  I am using one of their ignition
systems on the 273, but only just found out they also do fuel systems.  I am
also interested, of course, in any other similar controllers that may be
commercially available.

I am very glad to have run across a group of people who are dedicated to the
complexities of electronic engine management and I hope that I can contribute
to this mail list in a positve way.  I look forward to reading future posts!

                                            -- R. Andrew Broadhurst
                                            Utgarhoth@AOL.com 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec 22 13:18:39 1995
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	(1.37.109.4/16.2) id AA17518; Fri, 22 Dec 95 08:10:46 -0500
From: Derrick Early <early@finite.nrl.navy.mil>
Subject: Carb vs Fuel Injection
To: DIY_EFI (diy_efi)
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 95 8:10:45 "EST
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Ok, it looks like no one reads Hot Rod.  In a previous post, I asked if
anyone has read the issue of Hot Rod that had an article on
Carburetion vs Fuel Injection.  Since I have not received a reply, I must 
assume that either someone is too embarrassed to admit that they read
Hot Rod or that no one reads it.  I tried to find it down at the
University, but they stopped their subscription in 1991 :(.

The title is Carburetion vs. Fuel Injection in the October 1, 1994 issue
of Hot Rod.  The summary of the article is "the dyno doesn't lie."

You can reply to me directly if you would prefer.  I will keep your 
comments in confidence.

Thank you all in advance.

Yours,
--
Derrick Early
early@finite.nrl.navy.mil

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec 22 13:25:53 1995
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Date:         Fri, 22 Dec 95 08:11:16 EST
From: BCLEMEN@CMS.CC.WAYNE.EDU
Subject:      Haltech
To: diy_efi
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 I have been running an old Haltech F3 unit (fuel only) on a street
driven, automatic, small block Camaro with a tunnel ram style intake
for a couple of years now and it has been, in general, a good
experience. Contacting reps for the company has been difficult at
times but I saw they had a booth at the trade show in Columbus
a couple of weeks ago so I guess they are still available.

BYRON CLEMENS                     BITNET:   BCLEMEN@WAYNEST1.BITNET
HUMAN RESOURCES APP SPEC I        INTERNET: BCLEMEN@CMS.CC.WAYNE.EDU
100 ANTOINETTE, ASB #1, RM 156.1  PHONE:    (313) 577-2059
Detroit, MI 48202                 FAX:      (313) 577-8767

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec 22 14:50:08 1995
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Date: Fri, 22 Dec 1995 08:30:00 -0600 (CST)
From: Steve Knickerbocker 512-356-3000 X6759 <Steve.Knickerbocker@SEMATECH.Org>
Subject: RE carb vs. FI
To: diy_efi
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          I think I may have read that article.  Heck, I might even have it 
          in my archive (read box in garage).  If I remember right Hot Rod 
          made some claim along the line of "FI is no better than a finely 
          tuned carb".  Maybe on a dyno but I really doubt it in the real 
          world.  Besides who wants to spend each weekend tuning a carb.  How 
          does a carb compensate for a cold front?
          
          Thunderstruck...


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec 22 15:27:12 1995
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From: MTaylorfi@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 22 Dec 1995 10:17:12 -0500
Message-ID: <951222101711_21518280@emout05.mail.aol.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Carb vs Fuel Injection
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

Hey if you find out the info, please send me it.  I gratuated from college in
May and since renewed my Car Craft and PHR magazine subscription.  I feel HOT
ROD is pro-Chevy (at least 5 years ago).  If I'm wrong please tell me.

You can order older issues direct from the magizine publishers.

See ya,

Mike


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec 22 15:30:53 1995
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From: walter@roadster.sps.mot.com (thomas walter x5955)
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: General question
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Orin,

On a MGB witha  5 port head, biggest problem with fuel injection
is timing the injection cycle. Since the intake ports a siamesed
the injector needs to be on ONLY during the time when the intake
valve is opened... the sysem would have to be a sequential mode,
preferably timed to the closing of the intake valve.  To have the
injector big enough for WOT throttle may result in a poor idle.

David Vizard went to great lenghts to get a Weber to deliver 
proper flow in his book on "How to modify your Mini". Book is
long since OOP (out of Print), but highly recommended reading.

Hmm... Peter Wales has been quiet, but hopefully can add some
thoughts. (Most of the list is V8 people, who a 5 port head
seems a little "different" ;-)

Cheers,
Tom Walter
'67 Datsun 2000  '68 Datsun 2000  '71 & '72 Datsun 510's
[hate this line edit mode... not on his Workstation]

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec 22 16:42:24 1995
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From: Derrick Early <early@finite.nrl.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: RE carb vs. FI
To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 95 11:35:18 "EST
In-Reply-To: <01HZ3OEC0HRM90MVFI@MR.SEMATECH.Org>; from "Steve Knickerbocker 512-356-3000 X6759" at Dec 22, 95 8:30 am
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> 
> 
>           I think I may have read that article.  Heck, I might even have it 
>           in my archive (read box in garage).  If I remember right Hot Rod 
>           made some claim along the line of "FI is no better than a finely 
>           tuned carb".  Maybe on a dyno but I really doubt it in the real 
>           world.  Besides who wants to spend each weekend tuning a carb.  How 
>           does a carb compensate for a cold front?
>           
>           Thunderstruck...
> 
> 
Steve,

Ok.  Sounds like an article that I don't need to find.  I guess their point
is that it doesn't matter as long as the air to fuel is right.

Thank you for digging into you memory banks. :)

Yours,
--
Derrick Early
early@finite.nrl.navy.mil

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Dec 22 21:13:10 1995
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Date: Fri, 22 Dec 1995 17:03:55 -0500
To: diy_efi
From: pjwales@magicnet.net (Peter Wales)
Subject: Re: MGB
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I'm looking and listening.

I'm not awfully familiar with the MGB head. Is 5 port = 2 siamesed inlets
and 1 siamesed exhaust with 2 independant exhausts?

Are we on twin carbs here?

if so, then replace the carbs with injectors and use two injectors only like
the Mitsubishi Starion system. In fact that may be a good system to adapt as
it uses a Kharman (sp) vortex air meter off boost and a seperate ignition
system. Just stick with the air meter and modify the bypass tubes to adjust
the mixture close and then there is a mixture adjuster to fine tune it.
Leave the electronics alone.


If you want to make your own, then all you need to do is to fit cpu
controlled mono to the injectors and cycle them. the injectors need to be
sized to supply enough fuel for 2 cylinders at full power. The CPU would
only provide environmental correction sucjh as battery voltage, water
temperature etc and the mono would give fixed pulses when everything was
"normal" The pulse rate would increase as the air flow increased. Then you
could tune the CPU as other things needed doing.eg new cam.

Just some ideas, try them on for size. If they don't fit, give me a hard
time and I'll come up with more.

Peter Wales
President Superchips Inc
Chairman Superchips Ltd        "Timing is everything"


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec 23 00:07:14 1995
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From: Jim Pearl <JVP@qsi.com>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: General question
Date: Fri, 22 Dec 1995 19:00:22 -0600
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Be careful with the Electromtive system! I looked at installing it =
before I went with my DFI. The prices they quote usually don't include =
wiring or software. The really expensive part is the software - I can't =
believe the prices they charge. in order to do decent tuning you will =
need to have the datalogging and if I were you I'd go whole hog and get =
the Nitrous etc. stuff at the initial purchase. They are local to me and =
I'm told they they're pretty good people - just make sure you're talking =
about a whole package when you talk prices - the wiring isn't mentioned =
(that I recall) in the literature and the software is rude unless you =
intend to program multiple vehicles...

P.S. I wish that DFI would do some of the innovative things Electromtive =
has done. Most of the really neat stuff they do is mostly software stuff =
(self programming type stuff etc.). Why can't DFI do some of this?

----------
>From: 	Orin B. Harding[SMTP:orin@nr.infi.net]
Sent: 	Thursday, December 21, 1995 10:14 PM
To: 	diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: General question

I'm also new to the list and have almost the same questions for the =
others on the site.
I have attempted to install a Bosch LU Jetronic system on a MGB ('79) =
and found that while it would run OK when warm, I never could get it to =
cold idle well.  I finally have given up on this and am going to install =
the Electromotive TEC II system.

I talked to Haltec and I felt that they were not very, how should I say =
it, "friendly"..A real turn off over the phone..They may have a great =
system, but don't know how to deal with the public.  Electromotive was =
helpful and I really like the direct fire ignition feature included in =
the TEC II for about the same cost as the Haltec F8.


>Hi,
>    =20
>I just joined the list to see what you-all are talking about.  I =
scanned=20
>your Web site, and it looks like you're taking "Do It Yourself" very=20
>seriously--building systems from scratch.
>     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec 23 00:09:56 1995
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Date: Fri, 22 Dec 1995 19:00:53 -0500
To: diy_efi
From: orin@nr.infi.net (Orin B. Harding)
Subject: Re: MGB
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>I'm looking and listening.
>
>I'm not awfully familiar with the MGB head. Is 5 port = 2 siamesed inlets
>and 1 siamesed exhaust with 2 independant exhausts?

Yes, that's the arrangement; Intakes 1&2 siamesed and 3&4 siamesed..Exhaust #1 and #4 independent and #2&3 siamesed.
>
>Are we on twin carbs here?

No this is a '79 which had one Zenith 175CD carb.  I replaced the carb with the Ford throttle body, having made a base flange adaptor.  The MGB intake/exhaust manifold was retained.  The throttle body has one large injector and the one I used was for a 1.9L engine.  I tried the 2.3L injector but it was much too big.
>
>if so, then replace the carbs with injectors and use two injectors only like
>the Mitsubishi Starion system. 

What Mits. cars is/was this system used on???  The whole object here is to come up with an affordable EFI system for the MGB..The Electromotive system is in no way "affordable"..

In fact that may be a good system to adapt as
>it uses a Kharman (sp) vortex air meter off boost and a seperate ignition
>system. Just stick with the air meter and modify the bypass tubes to adjust
>the mixture close and then there is a mixture adjuster to fine tune it.
>Leave the electronics alone.
>
>
>If you want to make your own, then all you need to do is to fit cpu
>controlled mono to the injectors and cycle them. the injectors need to be
>sized to supply enough fuel for 2 cylinders at full power. The CPU would
>only provide environmental correction sucjh as battery voltage, water
>temperature etc and the mono would give fixed pulses when everything was
>"normal" The pulse rate would increase as the air flow increased. Then you
>could tune the CPU as other things needed doing.eg new cam.
>
>Just some ideas, try them on for size. If they don't fit, give me a hard
>time and I'll come up with more.

No, I will not be giving you a hard time!!!! I want to learn, so don't go away!!
>



>
Orin Harding - Greensboro, NC
('74 MGB-GT - '79 MGB Roadster - '95 3000GT, BRG of course!)


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec 23 01:56:19 1995
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Subject: Re: RE carb vs. FI
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If I remember correctly, the article came to the conclusion that fuel 
injection produced a broader torque curve with less peak horsepower,
the carb produced a higher peak H.P.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
J.W. Harris                           Delco Electronics Corp.
Project Engineer                      One Corporate Center
Powertrain Electronics                M.S. CT40C
                                      Kokomo, IN 46904-9005
jwharris@eng.delcoelect.com
jwharris@holli.com

Of course, all responses are my own and should not be mistaken
for those of Delco Electronics or General Motors.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec 23 02:33:27 1995
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Date: Fri, 22 Dec 1995 21:25:12 -0500
To: diy_efi
From: orin@nr.infi.net (Orin B. Harding)
Subject: RE: General question
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Jim,

You're right about the Electromotive priceing policy...Hardware OK..Software TOOOOOO expensive for what you get...I also looked into the DFI/Accel/Mr. Gasket system and was shocked at how little information they send with their system. No wiring diagrams, pin-outs, nothing!!!  The guy I talked to, at Accel, said I would have to make my own by tracing the wiring harness that came with the unit...

Other than that, how do you like your system??
Orin Harding - Greensboro, NC
('74 MGB-GT - '79 MGB Roadster - '95 3000GT, BRG of course!)


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec 23 04:59:39 1995
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From: fcmefi@fishnet.net (Fred Miranda)
Subject: RE: General question
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>Jim,
>
>You're right about the Electromotive priceing policy...Hardware
OK..Software TOOOOOO expensive for what you get...I also looked into the
DFI/Accel/Mr. Gasket system and was shocked at how little information they
send with their system. No wiring diagrams, pin-outs, nothing!!!  The guy I
talked to, at Accel, said I would have to make my own by tracing the wiring
harness that came with the unit...
>
>Other than that, how do you like your system??
>Orin Harding - Greensboro, NC
>('74 MGB-GT - '79 MGB Roadster - '95 3000GT, BRG of course!)
>
Orin:

With the MG I would recomend going with a sequential system, pref one with
variable inj timing to help with fuel distribution.
I wouldn't go with the Electomotive sequential as I don't think it is properly
integrated into their standard system. ie you must use high impedence injectors.
from what I remember the DFI sequential box is $2k or so, but no variable inj
timing.
I just got my Elan running on an Autronic SMC system. It's a very powerfull
and well thought out system and costs about the same as a sequential TEC.
Installation is a bit more involved though as there are 2 eng pos sensors,
coil(S) and coil driver(S) to install. I used 2 Eclypse coils but it will
drive 1-4 coil drivers. Another tool that might be really usefull on the "B"
is the ability to vary inj flow from cyl to cyl varying amounts at different
loads and rpm.

Fred


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec 23 07:08:13 1995
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From: Jim Pearl <JVP@qsi.com>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: RE carb vs. FI
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 1995 02:04:32 -0600
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Gee I guess that's what happens when you test a carb manifold against an =
EFI manifold like say a TPI. I don't suppose they took that carburetor =
manifold, drilled it for injectors, slapped an air door on it, and ran =
the same tests with a tuned EFI system did they? I haven't seen the =
article but I've heard some of the garbage from friends - "Put a carb on =
it - it'll go faster". Many people don't realize that the torque curve =
etc. isn't a function of how the fuel is delivered so much as it is the =
manifold's tuning. I (IMHO) don't think the "cooling effect" of fuel =
bouncing around a manifold has as much of an effect as having the fuel =
in the right place at the right time in a good suspension.

I'll step off my soapbox now (grin). I've seen a couple of these type =
tests before in the Ford mags. irks me to no end.

Jim
'88 Ford Mustang
Twin turbo 302 (DDMI\Spearco) - DFI


----------
>From: 	J.W. Harris[SMTP:jwharris@holli.com]
Sent: 	Friday, December 22, 1995 7:50 PM
To: 	diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: RE carb vs. FI

If I remember correctly, the article came to the conclusion that fuel=20
injection produced a broader torque curve with less peak horsepower,
the carb produced a higher peak H.P.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---
J.W. Harris                           Delco Electronics Corp.
Project Engineer                      One Corporate Center
Powertrain Electronics                M.S. CT40C
                                      Kokomo, IN 46904-9005
jwharris@eng.delcoelect.com
jwharris@holli.com

Of course, all responses are my own and should not be mistaken
for those of Delco Electronics or General Motors.





From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec 23 07:32:21 1995
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From: Jim Pearl <JVP@qsi.com>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: General question
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 1995 02:29:14 -0600
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Tracing the harness? They will give you the pinouts for their computer - =
I know I have a set (although I think it may be off a bit - mine's not =
"standard"). I think what he may be trying to tell you is that he =
doesn't have a standard plug in unit for your cars harness. The best way =
around that is to run your own - I can say that 'cause I didn't have to =
(smile). Others here can probably help you better with wiring than I =
can. If the car you have started out carburated than I think (opinion =
here) that the hardest part will be setting up the pickup from the =
ignition. Keep in mind that the standard DFI is batch fire BTW and that =
DFI isn't doing any development on it that I can find.

As for liking it. Well I like it but I'm envious of the new system they =
came out with for my car - a piggy back system (aargh!). With that =
system you don't have to teach it to walk, crawl, jog, or get good gas =
mileage. right now I'm tracking a mysterious O2 grounding problem (yeah =
- I've not even gotten under the car yet!). I also think the knock =
sensor is too sensitive and would like to find out if the knock sensor =
displays for the Buick GNs would work with my DFI's knock sensor to tell =
me when that puppy sensed knock. I'd also like the ability to damp it =
electronically. Some of the explanations for some of the idle screens =
also aren't real clear. The person who wrote the software could use a =
course in software design and it would be nice if I could track more =
than 6 functions at a time with the datalogger. I'd also like it to log =
more than once a second when doing extended logging. The book tries to =
explain alot about the various screens - VERY little on how to tune the =
system to work best - as in zero certain tables, get the fuel map right, =
then tune the others. I guess you're supposed to goto one of their =
dealers for that right? Duttweiler's fuel map that he thought would "get =
me in the ballpark" had to be leaned over 50% (I'm not knocking him, I =
just had a little trouble is all) and I killed many bugs driving to a =
friend's house to get his laptop. Fooling with his off WOT timing curve =
got me an extra 5MPG - up from 10 to 15 (still poor!).

I could go on but you get the idea. The system works, the software could =
be better, and I'm still learning. For the price you can't beat it =
(IMHO) - mine was about $800 and plugged into my harness. I've read many =
books on EFI (I posted about one earlier - it's very good) and =
researched many options. I still get Electromotive's catalog every year =
and think they're software sounds like nirvana - mind you I've not =
programmed a car with it yet. DFI could do much of what they are doing =
with their software but I guess they're mostly car guys and not software =
guys.=20

When I look at friend's that are fueling their Vortechs with silly FMU's =
and boost retards I just shake my head. I even know one guy who just =
dropped a bigger than 460 big block in a car with a Vortech R-trim (ha - =
it only makes 3lbs with his current pulleys) and is using the stock =
EEC-IV computer (for a 302) with FMU and boost retard. Now tell me his =
fuel and ignition curve is going to be anywhere close when he finally =
hits 12lbs of boost? When compared to that sort of Mickey Mouse kind of =
stuff I thank my DFI for at least letting me know what's going on and =
retarding my timing when I'm too stupid to get out of it under =
detonation.

P.S. There is supposed to be some software for the DFI that allows you =
to monitor much more than just 6 functions - but it won't let you =
monitor O2 voltage. I'd love to find out where I can get it. Duttweiler =
mentioned it to me..

P.P.S. - Sorry guys - I was on a roll and it got a little long! Would it =
be of benefit if I posted some tech tips on what I've learned with my =
DFI? I was actually hoping someone could tell ME this sort of stuff =
(grin).

----------
>From: 	Orin B. Harding[SMTP:orin@nr.infi.net]
Sent: 	Friday, December 22, 1995 8:25 PM
To: 	diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	RE: General question

Jim,

You're right about the Electromotive priceing policy...Hardware =
OK..Software TOOOOOO expensive for what you get...I also looked into the =
DFI/Accel/Mr. Gasket system and was shocked at how little information =
they send with their system. No wiring diagrams, pin-outs, nothing!!!  =
The guy I talked to, at Accel, said I would have to make my own by =
tracing the wiring harness that came with the unit...

Other than that, how do you like your system??
Orin Harding - Greensboro, NC
('74 MGB-GT - '79 MGB Roadster - '95 3000GT, BRG of course!)





From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec 23 14:51:37 1995
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Date: Sat, 23 Dec 1995 10:43:42 -0500
To: diy_efi
From: pjwales@magicnet.net (Peter Wales)
Subject: Re: MGB
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

I need to know what level of electronics design and assembly you are at.
Don't be modest, give it to me straight and it will help me give you the
right ideas.


The Starion air mass meter was fitted to every Starion and Conquest ever
made anywhere in the world from 83 to whenever they stopped. I believe a lot
of other Mitsubish turbo cars were fitted with it as well, all from the same
era. In a junk yard you need to remove the whole airbox and disconnect it
from the loom. I believe the air box is fixed with 2 bolts through the
fender wall.

If you must stay with one injector, it needs to be sized pretty accurately.
How much power do you expect from the engine -  125HP?

I think someone on the list will be able to calculate an injector size for us.

Now, the system I am proposing is radically different in operation from the
normal EFI. Normal EFI injects once per firing stroke if sequential, and
twice if batch fired, and the injection pulse width varies from 2 to 20 mS.
This system will inject faster as the air speed increases and the pulse
width wil be constant. It will be adjustable, but as your basic mixture control.

The air mass meter will give out a train of pulses which increases in speed
as more air is drawn though it. In theory each  certain amount of air
requires a certain amount of fuel, so you count the number of pulses and
give a squirt from the injector. Then it doesn't matter what the engine is
doing, if it is using air, it is getting the mixture in the correct
proportions. This will run the car fine.

The fine tuning ie cold starts, battery voltage compensation etc, need to be
done to make the vehicle an everyday practical proposition, and exactly how
you do this will depend on you electronic skills. However, you should be
able to get the whole system working nicely for $50 plus the air meter ($100
or less?)

Peter Wales
President Superchips Inc
Chairman Superchips Ltd        "Timing is everything"


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec 23 17:27:27 1995
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Date: Sat, 23 Dec 1995 12:18:55 -0500
To: diy_efi
From: orin@nr.infi.net (Orin B. Harding)
Subject: Re: MGB
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>I need to know what level of electronics design and assembly you are at.
>Don't be modest, give it to me straight and it will help me give you the
>right ideas.
>

Well, OK I'll not be modest...I worked as a field service rep, in the industrial/HVAC controls industry for years and am now in sales.  Have most of the basic stuff: Logic probe, scope, DVM, etc. and access to storage scope, etc.  The "electronics" portion of such a project would present no problem.  I also have a lathe, milling machine, drill press, etc. so making mechanical adaptor parts will not be a problem. (I did install the Bosch LU Jetronic, making the wiring harness, adaptors, etc.)
>
>The Starion air mass meter was fitted to every Starion and Conquest ever
>made anywhere in the world from 83 to whenever they stopped. I believe a lot
>of other Mitsubish turbo cars were fitted with it as well, all from the same
>era. In a junk yard you need to remove the whole airbox and disconnect it
>from the loom. I believe the air box is fixed with 2 bolts through the
>fender wall.
>
>If you must stay with one injector, it needs to be sized pretty accurately.
>How much power do you expect from the engine -  125HP?

I have the software, from MSD, and 52#/hr. is about right.  I expect to produce between 110 and 120 HP
>
>I think someone on the list will be able to calculate an injector size for us.
>
>Now, the system I am proposing is radically different in operation from the
>normal EFI. Normal EFI injects once per firing stroke if sequential, and
>twice if batch fired, and the injection pulse width varies from 2 to 20 mS.
>This system will inject faster as the air speed increases and the pulse
>width wil be constant. It will be adjustable, but as your basic mixture control.

At 6,000 RPM this comes to 5 MS if fired once/cycle...
>
>The air mass meter will give out a train of pulses which increases in speed
>as more air is drawn though it. In theory each  certain amount of air
>requires a certain amount of fuel, so you count the number of pulses and
>give a squirt from the injector. Then it doesn't matter what the engine is
>doing, if it is using air, it is getting the mixture in the correct
>proportions. This will run the car fine.
>
>The fine tuning ie cold starts, battery voltage compensation etc, need to be
>done to make the vehicle an everyday practical proposition, and exactly how
>you do this will depend on you electronic skills.

Is there enough info. on the system to enable me to figure out what to change to adapt it to my car???


 However, you should be
>able to get the whole system working nicely for $50 plus the air meter ($100
>or less?)
>
>Peter Wales
>President Superchips Inc
>Chairman Superchips Ltd        "Timing is everything"
>
>
>All and all sounds like something to look into.....Recommended reading???...I'll stop by the local PEP Boys and see what the Haynes manual on these cars has to offer.  They usually have good wiring diagrams, etc.....

Looking forward to your reply, and If I don't talk to you in the next day or so, MERRY CHRISTMAS to you and yours..

Orin Harding - Greensboro, NC
('74 MGB-GT - '79 MGB Roadster - '95 3000GT, BRG of course!)


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec 23 20:35:53 1995
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Date: Sat, 23 Dec 1995 16:30:16 -0500
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Subject: Re: MGB
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>Well, OK I'll not be modest...

Good, at least this should be fairly simple to start with and get more
complex as you choose. The object is to create an analogue injection system,
and then develop a computer control system. The system I am proposing will
fit any car, with any number of cylinders and any number of injectors. It
will give the same amount of HP as any other system, and the driveability
will depend upon exactly how much work you want to do on the microprocessor
end. I have used this system to generate over 300Hp on a Turbo Starion Race car.

However, lets start at the simple part to get the engine running. First, you
need to acquire the air mass meter. It has 4 wires coming from it, Gnd,
+12v, output and a diode for air temperature compensation. Ignore the diode
for now. The output needs a pullup resistor to supply and this can be 4k7.
Now we have a square wave which increases in frequency with the air flow.
You need to feed the square wave into a Cmos monostable such as  a 555 (It
must be  Cmos). The potentiometer on it needs to be able to adjust the pulse
from 2 to 5 mS and this will be the mixture control. The voltage control
will come from our CPU later so just decouple it for now. The output needs
to go into a Darlington driver and this must be rated high enough in voltage
to withstand the back EMF generated by the injector. (TIP 121) The injector
may need a resistor in series with it if it is low impedance. If it is, grab
the ones from the Starion, they are about 4-5 R. 

Make it run and see what happens. If it is too rich, you may need to put a
divider after the air mass meter and before the monostable. On the race car
I ended up with a divide by 12  and 2 1000cc/min injectors (100lb/hr)

If any one else is proposing to try this system and they want to use
multiple injectors, use one 555 for each injector and let them all run at
once. You will need a divider and if you are clever, you could make a
sequencer so that each injector fires at a different time from any other.




>At 6,000 RPM this comes to 5 MS if fired once/cycle...
6000 RPM is 10mS
every other cycle is 20mS

 
>Is there enough info. on the system to enable me to figure out what to
change to adapt it to my car???
>

You need to change nothing on it because it is simple. The changeable part,
you are going to build. With the tools you have you can test everything on
the bench before fitting it to the car.


>>All and all sounds like something to look into.....Recommended
reading???...I'll stop by the local PEP Boys and see what the Haynes manual
on these cars has to offer.  They usually have good wiring diagrams, etc.....


I hope you can find something. I have the workshop manual in England and can
get it sent over if I need it.


Have a good Christmas



Peter Wales
President Superchips Inc
Chairman Superchips Ltd        "Timing is everything"


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Dec 23 23:09:19 1995
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Subject: O2 sensors
To: diy_efi (Darrell Norquay)
Date: Sat, 23 Dec 95 16:00:13 MDT
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Yo:

I need some info on oxygen sensors...  I have installed two O2 sensors
in my  header  collectors  (350  V8).    These are attached to two LED
bargraph meters for monitoring purposes  only  at  this  point.    The
readings  I  get  from the sensors are not really agreeing with what I
see from engine operation.

The  sensors show basically full lean (<100 mV) at almost all throttle
openings, which I cannot see because the engine runs fine, has lots of
power, etc.  The engine has 30000 mi  with  no  problems,  if  it  was
actually running this lean it would have eaten head gaskets or pistons
long before  now.    The  only time I really get a change in O2 sensor
output is under deceleration (throttle fully closed)  at  which  point
the bargraphs show full rich (>950 mV).


I'm wondering if it could be one of two problems:

1. the O2 sensor is not reaching full operating temperature because it
is in the header collector which is some  distance  from  the  exhaust
port...

With  regards  to  point  1, what is the advantage of the newer heated
oxygen sensors used on some systems? Is the heating  circuit  strictly
to  improve  response  time on startup and allow the EFI to run closed
loop sooner, or is it something different  altogether?    Would  using
heated O2 sensors correct this condition if this is the problem?

2. the  engine  is running on propane fuel, is it possible that the O2
sensor is not  responding  with  the  correct  reading  for  rich/lean
because of the different stoich point for propane...

With regards to this point, if this is the case,  is  it  possible  to
correct  the  O2  sensor  output  to  reflect the correct voltage with
alternative  fuels  such  as  propane?  Any info on how to calculate a
correction factor (if necessary) would be appreciated.

regards
dn


--
\/<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<</\
\/ Darrell A. Norquay                   Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca      /\
\/ Datalog Technology Inc.              Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell /\
\/ Calgary, Alberta, Canada             Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220             /\
\/                                      Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872             /\
\/    @ +                                                                    /\
\/     <                                                                     /\
\/    __/     "Ain't no substitute for clock speed or compression ratio"     /\
\/>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>/\


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Dec 24 03:56:56 1995
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From: BradyEng@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 23 Dec 1995 22:40:41 -0500
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: O2 sensors
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

In a message dated 95-12-23 18:35:27 EST, you write:

>I need some info on oxygen sensors...  I have installed two O2 sensors
>in my  header  collectors  (350  V8).    These are attached to two LED
>bargraph meters for monitoring purposes  only  at  this  point.    The
>readings  I  get  from the sensors are not really agreeing with what I
>see from engine operation.
>
>The  sensors show basically full lean (<100 mV) at almost all throttle
>openings, which I cannot see because the engine runs fine, has lots of
>power, etc.  The engine has 30000 mi  with  no  problems,  if  it  was
>actually running this lean it would have eaten head gaskets or pistons
>long before  now.    The  only time I really get a change in O2 sensor
>output is under deceleration (throttle fully closed)  at  which  point
>the bargraphs show full rich (>950 mV).
>
>2. the  engine  is running on propane fuel, is it possible that the O2
>sensor is not  responding  with  the  correct  reading  for  rich/lean
>because of the different stoich point for propane...
>
>With regards to this point, if this is the case,  is  it  possible  to
>correct  the  O2  sensor  output  to  reflect the correct voltage with
>alternative  fuels  such  as  propane?  Any info on how to calculate a
>correction factor (if necessary) would be appreciated.

I would like to second this question on O2 sensors.  It appears to me that
the garden variety used in production autos are basically go-nogo gauges for
rich-lean.  However, meters with O2 sensors are sold which are reported to be
useful tuning aids and accurate to ~0.5 A/F.  Does anyone have comments on
prices, sources, and performance of the sensors used in the aftermarket
systems?

To answer a question in this query directly Bob Behn wrote an article in
Turbo Bike Volume IV Number I on air fuel ratio meters that included data for
alchohol and propane.
Turbo Bike is available from Joe Haile Enterprises, PO Box 8000725, Valencia,
CA 91380-0725, Tel 805-255-3426.  Bob Behn sells an A/F meter @ RB Racing
1625 W. 134th St., Gardena, CA 90249, Tel 310-515-5720.  Meters are also
available from K&N @ 714-684-9762.  I've seen the K&N in operation on a
street KZ1000 (4 cyl air cooled 2 valve motorcycle) with a header.  It took a
while to warm up, but sure speeded up the jetting process.

The short version is that stoichiometric is stoichiometric on the gage or O2
sensor, although the actual A/F ratio changes with fuel .  Rich and Lean Best
Torque are between about 86% and 92% of stoichiometric.  The problem is that
O2 concentration just doesn't change much below stoichiometric.  CO becomes a
much better indicator, but I havn't heard of real time sensors for this.

I'm sure this topic has been covered before in this forum, but I would very
much appreciate it if it was discussed again. 

Thanks

SBrady

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Dec 24 06:50:32 1995
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From: gt0035b@prism.gatech.edu (Henry David Sommer)
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Message-Id: <199512240635.BAA05115@acmex.gatech.edu>
Subject: Re: TiO2 and leaded fuel.
To: diy_efi
Date: Sun, 24 Dec 1995 01:35:24 -0500 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <199512061127.GAA19696@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu> from "Derrick Early" at Dec 6, 95 06:27:34 am
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Derrick Early wrote
> 
> Hello efi'ers,
> 
> I was digging through the archives and discovered a reference to TiO2 sensors
> for lambda control.  Do these things really work with leaded gas?  Does 
> any one know of a vendor?

	I don't know about TiO2s but the ZrO2s that Bosche sells are rated
for a certaiin life at a certain lead content. The numbers were in the
info I put on the web a litle while ago. Unfortunatly that page has gone
down and you'll have to get the info from Bosche or someone else that got
it off me.

Sorry


Henry Sommer | gt0035b@prism.gatech.edu | Georgia Institute of Technology
Year  88 | 90 | 91 | 92 | 93 | 94 | 95 | 96 | ME and MATE | FSAE since 92 
car # 66 | 23 | 23 | 42 | 42 | 99 | 99 | 55 | Maintainer of FSAE mailing list
place 11 |  2 |  6 | 23 |  3 |  6 | 11 | ?  | FSAE-request@list.gatech.edu


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Dec 24 09:07:21 1995
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	 <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: O2 sensors
Date: Sun, 24 Dec 1995 00:53:07 -0800
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The subject of calibrating output of sensors to fool the stock computer =
got beat to death about a month ago on the list.

It is possible to not have enough temp and that would account for the =
readings you are getting, but I think that your readings are probably =
due to the propane. Remember, the sensor is reporting O2, not anything =
else. It is calibrated to output a given voltage based on a range of O2 =
content that coincides with combustion properties for gasoline. You may =
just be off the scale when measuring O2 from combustion of propane. I =
wish I could help more on this, but I never got to the O2 sensor stage =
when I was experimenting with propane injection previous. You may want =
to try sticking the sensor in one of the primary tubes right up on that =
first bend where it gets hotter than hell just to see if you get the =
same readings... if you do then can probably assume that we are going to =
have to figure out how to compenstate for the false output. As far as =
confirming if the engine is indeed running that lean you can rev it up =
and hold it there, then just put your hand near the air horn of the carb =
and see if it speeds up. You could also try a heated sensor to see what =
you get. Meanwhile I will try to find something that gives a comparison =
on what the total exhaust contents are between gas and propane... might =
just be that propane puts of way less or more O2 when at stoich.

-j-


----------
From: 	dn[SMTP:dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca]
Sent: 	Saturday, December 23, 1995 2:00 PM
To: 	Darrell Norquay
Subject: 	O2 sensors


Yo:

I need some info on oxygen sensors...  I have installed two O2 sensors
in my  header  collectors  (350  V8).    These are attached to two LED
bargraph meters for monitoring purposes  only  at  this  point.    The
readings  I  get  from the sensors are not really agreeing with what I
see from engine operation.

The  sensors show basically full lean (<100 mV) at almost all throttle
openings, which I cannot see because the engine runs fine, has lots of
power, etc.  The engine has 30000 mi  with  no  problems,  if  it  was
actually running this lean it would have eaten head gaskets or pistons
long before  now.    The  only time I really get a change in O2 sensor
output is under deceleration (throttle fully closed)  at  which  point
the bargraphs show full rich (>950 mV).


I'm wondering if it could be one of two problems:

1. the O2 sensor is not reaching full operating temperature because it
is in the header collector which is some  distance  from  the  exhaust
port...

With  regards  to  point  1, what is the advantage of the newer heated
oxygen sensors used on some systems? Is the heating  circuit  strictly
to  improve  response  time on startup and allow the EFI to run closed
loop sooner, or is it something different  altogether?    Would  using
heated O2 sensors correct this condition if this is the problem?

2. the  engine  is running on propane fuel, is it possible that the O2
sensor is not  responding  with  the  correct  reading  for  rich/lean
because of the different stoich point for propane...

With regards to this point, if this is the case,  is  it  possible  to
correct  the  O2  sensor  output  to  reflect the correct voltage with
alternative  fuels  such  as  propane?  Any info on how to calculate a
correction factor (if necessary) would be appreciated.

regards
dn


--
\/<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<=
<<<</\
\/ Darrell A. Norquay                   Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca  =
    /\
\/ Datalog Technology Inc.              Bang: =
calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell /\
\/ Calgary, Alberta, Canada             Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220         =
    /\
\/                                      Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872         =
    /\
\/    @ +                                                                =
    /\
\/     <                                                                 =
    /\
\/    __/     "Ain't no substitute for clock speed or compression ratio" =
    /\
\/>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>=
>>>>/\



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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Dec 25 23:19:21 1995
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From: Jim Pearl <JVP@qsi.com>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: O2 sensors
Date: Mon, 25 Dec 1995 18:08:33 -0600
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Do a YAHOO search on the WEB for this subject. There is some good =
information out there and someone actually took apart an MSD unit and =
found the construction to be something less than ideal. The probable =
reason why the K&N unit took so long to warm up was probably because it =
wasn't heated (?). The advantage of a heated sensor is that it can be =
placed further down the pipe and will stay "cleaner" and not clog as =
easily. If I have a chance I'll track down the WEB site that has the =
info and post it..

----------
>From: 	BradyEng@aol.com[SMTP:BradyEng@aol.com]
Sent: 	Saturday, December 23, 1995 9:40 PM
To: 	diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: O2 sensors

In a message dated 95-12-23 18:35:27 EST, you write:

>I need some info on oxygen sensors...  I have installed two O2 sensors
>in my  header  collectors  (350  V8).    These are attached to two LED
>bargraph meters for monitoring purposes  only  at  this  point.    The
>readings  I  get  from the sensors are not really agreeing with what I
>see from engine operation.
>
>The  sensors show basically full lean (<100 mV) at almost all throttle
>openings, which I cannot see because the engine runs fine, has lots of
>power, etc.  The engine has 30000 mi  with  no  problems,  if  it  was
>actually running this lean it would have eaten head gaskets or pistons
>long before  now.    The  only time I really get a change in O2 sensor
>output is under deceleration (throttle fully closed)  at  which  point
>the bargraphs show full rich (>950 mV).
>
>2. the  engine  is running on propane fuel, is it possible that the O2
>sensor is not  responding  with  the  correct  reading  for  rich/lean
>because of the different stoich point for propane...
>
>With regards to this point, if this is the case,  is  it  possible  to
>correct  the  O2  sensor  output  to  reflect the correct voltage with
>alternative  fuels  such  as  propane?  Any info on how to calculate a
>correction factor (if necessary) would be appreciated.

I would like to second this question on O2 sensors.  It appears to me =
that
the garden variety used in production autos are basically go-nogo gauges =
for
rich-lean.  However, meters with O2 sensors are sold which are reported =
to be
useful tuning aids and accurate to ~0.5 A/F.  Does anyone have comments =
on
prices, sources, and performance of the sensors used in the aftermarket
systems?

To answer a question in this query directly Bob Behn wrote an article in
Turbo Bike Volume IV Number I on air fuel ratio meters that included =
data for
alchohol and propane.
Turbo Bike is available from Joe Haile Enterprises, PO Box 8000725, =
Valencia,
CA 91380-0725, Tel 805-255-3426.  Bob Behn sells an A/F meter @ RB =
Racing
1625 W. 134th St., Gardena, CA 90249, Tel 310-515-5720.  Meters are also
available from K&N @ 714-684-9762.  I've seen the K&N in operation on a
street KZ1000 (4 cyl air cooled 2 valve motorcycle) with a header.  It =
took a
while to warm up, but sure speeded up the jetting process.

The short version is that stoichiometric is stoichiometric on the gage =
or O2
sensor, although the actual A/F ratio changes with fuel .  Rich and Lean =
Best
Torque are between about 86% and 92% of stoichiometric.  The problem is =
that
O2 concentration just doesn't change much below stoichiometric.  CO =
becomes a
much better indicator, but I havn't heard of real time sensors for this.

I'm sure this topic has been covered before in this forum, but I would =
very
much appreciate it if it was discussed again.=20

Thanks

SBrady




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 26 13:59:22 1995
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Date: Tue, 26 Dec 1995 07:50:13 -0600 (CST)
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To: diy_efi
From: Jim Zurlo <zurlo@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Carb vs Fuel Injection
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

At 08:10 AM 12/22/95, you wrote:
>Ok, it looks like no one reads Hot Rod.  In a previous post, I asked if
>anyone has read the issue of Hot Rod that had an article on
>Carburetion vs Fuel Injection.  Since I have not received a reply, I must 
>assume that either someone is too embarrassed to admit that they read
>Hot Rod or that no one reads it.  I tried to find it down at the
>University, but they stopped their subscription in 1991 :(.
>
>The title is Carburetion vs. Fuel Injection in the October 1, 1994 issue
>of Hot Rod.  The summary of the article is "the dyno doesn't lie."
>Derrick Early
>early@finite.nrl.navy.mil
>

I haven't read the article, but we do OK with just carbs.  We get
3000 BHP with an Impco 6 pack.  That's 220 psi BMEP!  Bet none of your
fuel injected engines have that kind of BMEP.  The carbs are quite durable
although they are not the best for transients, but who cares about transients
any way.

Oh, I suppose I should mention that's from a 214 liter turbocharged natural
gas engine used in industrial applications :-)

Jim Zurlo
zurlo@execpc.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 26 16:12:37 1995
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To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Carb vs. EFI
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     Derrick (Early),
        I have been receiving Hot Rod for a few years now and found that 
     article interesting.  I truly believe they were mostly interested in 
     quarter mile et's.  While a carbuerator is considerably cheaper and 
     very effective at the Drags, the versitility and efficiency of the EFI 
     (particularly TPI) is unparalled.  I have the '63 Chevy on the DYI_EFI 
     web site.  It is carbuerated (because of cost) but eventually I will 
     install a late model TPI unit for better gas mileage and consistent 
     performance.  Having a fast V-8 is AWESOME but when your filling that 
     tank with 93 octane (10.5:1 compression) you want every drop used as 
     efficiently as possible.  Hot Rod also had special on aftermarket EFI 
     units in the April '94 edition.  So, if your drag racing the expense 
     of fuel injection is a bit extravagant but for every day cruisability 
     fuel injection is worth the initial investment.
     
     MTaylor,   
        I subscribe to PHR, Car Craft and Hot Rod.  Hot Rod has stated the 
     reason for their Chevy bias:  a majority of street rodders drive 
     Chevys.  I love them all!  I have a Ford Pickup and find it far 
     superior to Chevrolets offerings.  The basics are the same no matter 
     what badge your vehicle wears.
     
     
     Has anyone out there retrofitted TPI for early model vehicles?  Any 
     info would be appreciated.
     
     Diamond Jim Brady
     '63 Chevy  '71 Ford Pickup  '92 Grand AM
     


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 26 17:31:53 1995
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From: Derrick Early <early@finite.nrl.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: Carb vs. EFI
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 95 12:25:48 "EST
In-Reply-To: <9511268200.AA820004082@ccmail.gsfc.nasa.gov>; from "jim_brady@ccmail.gsfc.nasa.gov" at Dec 26, 95 10:45 am
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>      Derrick (Early),
>         I have been receiving Hot Rod for a few years now and found that 
>      article interesting.  I truly believe they were mostly interested in 
>      quarter mile et's.  While a carbuerator is considerably cheaper and 
>      very effective at the Drags, the versitility and efficiency of the EFI 
>      (particularly TPI) is unparalled.  I have the '63 Chevy on the DYI_EFI 
>      web site.  It is carbuerated (because of cost) but eventually I will 
>      install a late model TPI unit for better gas mileage and consistent 
>      performance.  Having a fast V-8 is AWESOME but when your filling that 
>      tank with 93 octane (10.5:1 compression) you want every drop used as 
>      efficiently as possible.  Hot Rod also had special on aftermarket EFI 
>      units in the April '94 edition.  So, if your drag racing the expense 
>      of fuel injection is a bit extravagant but for every day cruisability 
>      fuel injection is worth the initial investment.
> 

Jim,

Thank you for the reply.  What kind of change did you get in your 
fuel economy?

Just curious,
--
Derrick Early
early@finite.nrl.navy.mil

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Dec 26 19:17:26 1995
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Date: Tue, 26 Dec 1995 13:10:25 -0600 (CST)
From: "Brandon L. Walters" <blwalt@ecsis.ecsis.net>
To: diy_efi
Subject: 2 Questions about GM-TBI
In-Reply-To: <9511268200.AA820004082@ccmail.gsfc.nasa.gov>
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Please excuse me if this has been well-thrashed previously. I have a late 
Chevy truck w/350 and TBI. I wanted to experiment with it some.

1. Is anybody using GM TBI injectors in their projects? They seem quite 
rugged & I wonder what all you can do with them.

2. If you want to fabricate your own tuned intake runners for a 350, what
is the best way to replace the lower part of the manifold? The TPI style
setup is not what I had in mind.

Cheers & Happy New Year,
Brandon Walters


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec 27 09:26:30 1995
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Date: Wed, 27 Dec 1995 09:11:30 GMT
From: Clint Sharp <clint@clintsmc.demon.co.uk>
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To: diy_efi
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In your message dated Tuesday 26, December 1995 you wrote :

> I haven't read the article, but we do OK with just carbs.  We get
> 3000 BHP with an Impco 6 pack.  That's 220 psi BMEP!  Bet none of your
> fuel injected engines have that kind of BMEP.  The carbs are quite durable
> although they are not the best for transients, but who cares about transients
> any way.
BMEP no, but 3000BHP on a 214 litre engine works out to 14.something BHP per
litre so my fuel injected 1.6l is slightly more powerful at 71 BHP per litre
therefore FI rules :-)
-- 
We apologise for the lack of coherent humorous comments.
 Normal service will be resumed shortly.
                       clint@clintsmc.demon.co.uk


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec 27 16:17:06 1995
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From: FIScot@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 27 Dec 1995 11:10:25 -0500
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: 2 Questions about GM-TBI
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   Subj:   2 Questions about GM-TBI
   Date:   95-12-26 14:42:33 EST
   From:   blwalt@ecsis.ecsis.net (Brandon L. Walters)


 >  1. Is anybody using GM TBI injectors in their projects? They seem quite
 >  rugged & I wonder what all you can do with them.

    I am in (slow) process of trying to use them.  This was triggered by an
    article in Sept '91 Truckin' magazine.  Turbo City had put two dual
    TBI's on a two-four barrel intake manifold. It looks slick, and has
    plenty of air flow ability.  I called and they said you HAVE to have a
    custom chip (of course!).  That meant a DIY'er had to figure out the GM
    TBI computer, if you wanted to use it.

    That being done, I still have two questions.  Will the stock peak-and
    -hold injector drivers like having double the load if I parallel the
    the TBI injectors?  Turbo City claims to use the stock truck TBI ECM.
    The if drivers will live, maybe a little extra in the injector voltage
    compensation tables (or similar) will make up the difference in
    injector turn-on time?  Any comments?

    Also, the firing order.  The intake is an Offy 360.  It is similar to
    an open plenum with a divider in the middle.  This puts cylinder #7
    just 90 crank degrees after cylinder #5, with another 630 crank degrees
    until cylinder #5 fires again.  Will this set-up have a big mixture
    distribution problem? That is, will cylinder #5 receive most of the
    fuel that is injected?

 >  2. If you want to fabricate your own tuned intake runners for a 350, what
 > is the best way to replace the lower part of the manifold? The TPI style
 > setup is not what I had in mind.

    TPI has long runners.  This makes great mid-range torque.  Great for
    gas mileage, and I imagine a great tow-motor in a truck.  If you want
    lots of upper RPM HP, then some other form of manifold is required.
    This is part of the reason for my persuing the dual TBI's.  They will
    be used on a much shorter intake manifold, that was meant for wet-flow.

    A tunnel ram is also meant for wet-flow, maybe you could adapt the base
    of a tunnel ram manifold, with your own custom plenum on top?

    Of course, I have to get an SBC to mount this on..... The present V-6's
    in the famaily vehicles just won't do.

    Thanks, Scot Sealander   FIScot@aol.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec 27 19:17:37 1995
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Hello All !

I'm new here and thought I'd introduce myself, my name is Jack Alford 
and I live in Decatur, AL. My current Fi project is an attempt
to put a GM TBI unit on my little 4cyl. 22R Toyota motor in my
4wheel drive pickup.  Before you tell me, I know Toyota has
later model truck engines with EFI but they use a sortof TPI which won't
work on the higher compression head/piston setup that I am using,
without ALOT of expensive head modification ....

I have *mentally* conquered most of the obstacles for completing
this swap except figuring out what to do about my distributor.
The wiring diagrams for the vehicle that I got my TBI unit
out of show four wires going from the ECM or coil, can't remember 
now, to the distributor.  Any ideas ??

Oh yeah, my donor vehicle is an '88 S-10 w 2.5L engine, it's about
the same size motor as my 4cyl toyota and the TBI unit
is of the one-barrel variety ...

Any and all info. appreciated ...

 - jack alford ==> toy4x4@ro.com --> Decatur, AL


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Dec 27 22:50:30 1995
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In a message dated 95-12-21 22:10:59 EST, dzorde@aesprodata.com.au writes:

>   I found Haltech too expensive when I was looking for one, there are a 
>     lot of equivalent systems around that are cheaper.
>     
>     
>     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au
>
>
Can some one tell me what the cheaper systems are?  Most of the systems I've
heard of cost about the same or more than Haltech.

Thanks

-Bonn


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Dec 28 00:14:51 1995
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Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 11:07:28 -0800
From: Doug Robson <doug@cia.com.au>
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Microtech In australia sell for about 700 ish and use limited 
adjustablility mainly for racing. I can find out a contact if you want

-- 
Doug Robson	Sydney 	Australia	
-------------------------------------------------------------
doug@cia.com.au				| Thank God for	
					|     
Club Car Racing Register of NSW		|    Gravity
1992/93 Under 2 litre State Champion	|
-------------------------------------------------------------

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Dec 28 01:08:32 1995
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From: Craig Pugsley <c.pugsley@trl.telstra.com.au>
Message-Id: <199512280058.LAA20417@shiva.trl.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: cheaper FI computers
To: diy_efi
Date: Thu, 28 Dec 1995 11:58:14 +1100 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <30E2EAF0.4865@cia.com.au> from "Doug Robson" at Dec 28, 95 11:07:28 am
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> 
> Microtech In australia sell for about 700 ish and use limited 
> adjustablility mainly for racing. I can find out a contact if you want

while the mircotech will work, for $700 I'd be looking for a _digital_
computer, not 50 bucks worth of analog components in a nice looking
box. I think you can get one of the stripped down Haltechs in this range
(you get better prices if you can get a mechanic with a business card to
order it too..).

Hmm.. How about diy_efi mate's rates from the guys on the list who
make/sell this stuff.. Or you could wait a while for the EFI332 guys to
get something together ;-)

Cheers&Happy new year,
Craig.

PS any more thoughts on algorithms for the EFI332 box?

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Dec 28 02:27:40 1995
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Date: Wed, 27 Dec 1995 21:07:49 -0500
To: diy_efi
From: orin@nr.infi.net (Orin B. Harding)
Subject: Re: cheaper FI computers
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>Microtech In australia sell for about 700 ish and use limited 
>adjustablility mainly for racing. I can find out a contact if you want
>
>-- 
>Doug Robson	Sydney 	Australia	
>-------------------------------------------------------------
>doug@cia.com.au				| Thank God for	
>					|     
>Club Car Racing Register of NSW		|    Gravity
>1992/93 Under 2 litre State Champion	|
>-------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
I'll start keeping a list of the after-market EFI systems that get listed here..In a month or so I'll post the list here..If you send the name of a company, please give as much info as you can, not only name, address, phone, but also prices and features...

Let's go guys....This will be a nice list to develop...
Orin Harding - Greensboro, NC
('74 MGB-GT - '79 MGB Roadster - '95 3000GT, BRG of course!)


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Dec 28 03:25:31 1995
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Date: Wed, 27 Dec 1995 22:03:59 -0500
To: diy_efi
From: orin@nr.infi.net (Orin B. Harding)
Subject: Re: cheaper FI computers
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>Hmm.. How about diy_efi mate's rates from the guys on the list who
>make/sell this stuff.. Or you could wait a while for the EFI332 guys to
>get something together ;-)


Word has it that the EFI332 guy's are not going to have a simple to use programming interface for quite some time.  This will keep a lot of us from trying to use that system.  Hopefully they'll change their mind and develop a "user friendly" software package..
Orin Harding - Greensboro, NC
('74 MGB-GT - '79 MGB Roadster - '95 3000GT, BRG of course!)


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Dec 28 03:34:18 1995
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Date: Wed, 27 Dec 1995 22:13:56 -0500
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From: orin@nr.infi.net (Orin B. Harding)
Subject: Re: cheaper FI computers
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--=====================_820145636==_
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Here is what I have so far on after market DIY EFI systems:



--=====================_820145636==_
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64

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////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////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aW4gSGFyZGluZwAAAAAAAAA=
--=====================_820145636==_
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Orin Harding - Greensboro, NC
('74 MGB-GT - '79 MGB Roadster - '95 3000GT, BRG of course!)

--=====================_820145636==_--


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Dec 28 03:34:20 1995
Received: by coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu (940816.SGI.8.6.9/940406.SGI)
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Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="=====================_820145655==_"
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 1995 22:14:15 -0500
To: diy_efi
From: orin@nr.infi.net (Orin B. Harding)
Subject: Re: cheaper FI computers
X-Mailer: <PC Eudora Version 1.4>
X-Attachments: C:\WINWORD\EPA-MG~1\EFI_SYS.DOC;
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu


--=====================_820145655==_
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Here is what I have so far on after market DIY EFI systems:



--=====================_820145655==_
Content-Type: application/octet-stream; name="EFI_SYS.DOC"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64

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///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////9
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////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////1IA
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