From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  1 07:21:17 1996
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From: Mika.J.Tuominen@nmp.nokia.com
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Subject: Re:Ducted Fan Engine
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>If you reduce compression and fit a spark-ignition-system, you can =

>use normal-gas without nitro and therefore won't have any corrosion =

>inside the housing.

Why not use use straight fuel with no nitro - no corrosion. (and yes,
less power 10-15%)

>A model-engine normally is very reliable for years (exept =

>race-engines which sometimes make more than 32000 RPM!)

Due to some experience, I agree...

>But I would also prefer electrical motors..

I would say that, those are much easier to start!

There is available very powerful electric motors to be used in
electric r/c aeroplanes, those might be usable also. I think they =

are available about same power levels as glow-plug model engines.

Mika

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
 Mika J. Tuominen                    Internet: mitu@nmoy.nmp.nokia.com
 Nokia Mobile Phones Ltd. Address: P.O.box 86, FIN-24101 Salo, Finland
 =



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  1 11:27:13 1996
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I wrote:
>If you reduce compression and fit a spark-ignition-system, you can 
>use normal-gas without nitro and therefore won't have any corrosion 
>inside the housing.
Sorry, I didn't read carefully!
You were talking about jet-engines,
not model-piston-engines. Of course, it wouldn't make too much sense
with a piston-engine.
This mailing-list also is a good english-training for me...
Hans
hiha@ brain.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  1 11:27:17 1996
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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  1 13:20:34 1996
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From: renns@bserv.com (Roger Enns)
Subject: Re: Totally tubular, man
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>
>Where can I find mandrel bent "U" shaped aluminum and steel tubing for 
>fabricating intake and exhaust plumbing?
>
>                                                         Dan Bocek

Check out the exhaust section of your JC Whitney catalog.  They have a good
selection of 45s, 90s, and 180s of various diameters.  I have ordered a
variety of sizes, and have been pleased with the product.  Seems to me that
all sizes were .050" wall thickness.
Roger Enns (renns@bserv.com)


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  1 14:20:45 1996
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To: diy_efi
Subject: RE:RE: Ducted Fan Engine
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I was referring to a Ducted Fan engine, which in my experience is a piston
engine driving a fan, used in models of jet aircraft.  I've been away from
modeling for a couple of years, and other than one notable example, I was
unaware that anyone had successfully built a model-size gas turbine.  In 
general, model engines *are* long-lasting and basically reliable (I have some
'70s vintage engines I wouldn't hesitate to fly again), but as a
powerplant to drive a supercharger, there are better alternatives.


How about a free-piston engine to drive the turbine directly?  Or, yet, a
combustion chamber (a la a real gas turbine engine) to generate hot gas? 

- Just another wacked-out thought...

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  1 15:13:38 1996
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From: Jens Knickmeyer <knick@ibr.cs.tu-bs.de>
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Subject: Re: Just a few GM TPI Questions
To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 96 15:59:39 MET
In-Reply-To: <199603010251.UAA15618@ns.tecinfo.com> from "George M. Dailey" at Feb 29, 96 08:51:49 pm
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<George M. Dailey> wrote:
> 
> Could fine dirt affect a hot wire MAF?

I would say so. The Bosch hot wire systems clean the wire by heating it up 
after the engine is stopped. I do not know about other systems...

Jens ('92 VW Polo-G40)


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  1 15:24:34 1996
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Subject: Re: LO VS. HI
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 10:16:38 -0500 (EST)
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> 
> What is the dynamic difference between low impedence peak-hold injectors and
> high impedence injectors.  Tell me Tell me Tell me.
> 
> Mike

 The low impedance injectors have a slightly  shorter turn on time.

Brad

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  1 15:57:49 1996
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Date: Fri, 01 Mar 1996 10:30:26 -0500
To: diy_efi
From: pjwales@magicnet.net (Peter Wales)
Subject: RE:RE: Ducted Fan Engine
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>How about a free-piston engine to drive the turbine directly?  Or, yet, a
>combustion chamber (a la a real gas turbine engine) to generate hot gas? 
>
>- Just another wacked-out thought...

You call  that a whacked out thought? Try this.

As you have plenty of gasoline on board so why not use a gasoline motor. A
lawn mower engine or a weedwhacker would do nicely if geared up. It may not
make enough power so you might have to turbocharge it.

Which leads me to the final whacked out thought. Feed the exhaust from the
weedwhacker engine into the input of the turbo thus using it as a backup
boost generator. Connect the throttle of the weedwhacker to a servo
controlled by boost pressure to maintain a closed loop system. Now you have
full boost at idle.

Thats a proper weedwhacker idea


Peter Wales                    pjwales@magicnet.net
President Superchips Inc
Chairman Superchips Ltd        "Timing is everything"
Superchips home page with all the answers http://www.superchips.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  1 15:57:50 1996
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From: "bclemen@cms.cc.wayne.edu" <BCLEMEN@CMS.CC.WAYNE.EDU>
Subject:      tubing and timing
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   Alum. tubing bends can be purchased from: Woolf AircraftProd.
                                             1-313-721-5330
   GM's 2.2 4cyl. is currently using a 7 notch disc (6 even spaced 1 odd)
   on the crank and 1 notch disc on the cam for ign.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  1 16:00:27 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: David Schmidt <dschmidt@rain.org>
Subject: Optical Dist sensors
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Nissan Sentras, and 240SX's from at least 91' up have this same setup,
in case anyone wanted to tear one up from a junkyard.  I would guess
the Maxima has one too.  It isn't just for their high end car!
Dave
> As a matter of interest the Nissan 300 ZX Twin Turbo distributor has 2
> sensors in it. One reads crank angle from the 360 lines on the disc and the
> other reads an encoded cylinder number from the 3 digit code. Japanese
> engineering!
>I was actually surprised that no one was doing this. (until now, that is) 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  1 17:23:37 1996
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 12:09:32 +0500
From: ehernan3@ford.com (Edward Hernandez (R))
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Detonation at idle
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"Should there be a very slight detection of detonation (knock) at idle
 with engine hot?"

No. You need ridiculous timing advace to knock at idle. You are 
probably(and unfortunately) hearing a mechanical problem such as 
piston slap or bad lifters.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  1 20:08:00 1996
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Subject: Re: LO VS. HI
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Mike:

If you want the "stuff" on injectors, pick up SAE Recommended Practice J1832.
According to this document, peak and holds open with about a one msec delay 
and close with about a 1/2 ms delay.  Saturated injectors open with about 
two ms delay and close with about a one ms delay.   
Seems that saturated works well on most applications, peak and hold more 
appropriate for engines with high specific output, say more than 100 
hp/liter, where they need a lot of max flow but at the same time need good 
control for very small pulse widths (ie idle, low load and rpm).

Sean McManus
University of Washington Formula SAE
Yamaha FZR 600 power



On Thu, 29 Feb 1996 MTaylorfi@aol.com wrote:

> What is the dynamic difference between low impedence peak-hold injectors and
> high impedence injectors.  Tell me Tell me Tell me.
> 
> See ya,
> 
> Mike
> 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  1 21:04:37 1996
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From: tarun@aoi.ultranet.com (Tarun Patel)
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To: diy_efi
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Is JC Whitney catalog ON-Line ??


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  1 21:31:37 1996
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 96 17:17:35 CET
From: einarp@ade.no (einarp)
Subject: Hi-res crank sensor.
To: diy_efi
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It seems I was not expressing myself very exact when I
presented this:

  *     x
  _   _   _   _   _   _
_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ \_


I should also have mentioned that I assumed the sensor signals
would be run through a zero crossing detector first. Like for
example the LM1815. A short pulse would come out of it starting
at the zero crossing of each sensor. That will again coincide
with the point where it is "on the top of" the tooth, like "*"
in the above drawing.

The pulses out of "X" will come inbetween the pulses from "*".
Set the pulse time short enough that the pulses from the two
sensors will not be active at the same time even at the highest RPM.

It should look something like this:

__/\  _____/\  ______/\  _______/\  ____    Sensor "*" output
    \/       \/        \/         \/    
______/\  _______/\  ______/\  ______/\  __ Sensor "x" output
        \/         \/        \/        \/    

___II________II________II________II_____  Zero Cross "*"
________II________II________II________II_ Zero Cross "x"
___II___II___II___II___II___II___II___    OR of the above


My point with this is that each of the two sensors are detected
at a point of their waveform that is not dependent on the shape
of the tooth, or the distance sensor/tooth. It's only depending
on one sensor being above the middle of the tooth at the same time
the other is midway between two teeth.

If we had a nice sinewave shaped signal out of the sensor, it 
would have been much simpler. We could just detect positive
and negative peaks of one sensor. But look at the sensor signal
and you will see it looks more like my ASCII drawing than a
sinewave at low RPM. It will approach a sinewave as speed
increases and the "_" part (of the sensor signal) shrinks.

I think some of the the previous postings assume a sinewave
signal.

For the DIY'er with lots of time on hand: Log the time interval
between zero crossings related to each cylinder during cranking,
and you can tell if one cylinder is low on compression relative
to the others. It should be possible assuming you have 300 pulses
per revolution as you would get from the above picking pulses off
of a 150 tooth flywheel ring.



--
einarp@ade.no  ( Maserati Biturbo Spyder )


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  1 23:31:31 1996
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Subject: Re: Detonation at idle
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At 12:09 PM 3/1/96 +0500, you wrote:
>"Should there be a very slight detection of detonation (knock) at idle
> with engine hot?"
>
>No. You need ridiculous timing advace to knock at idle. You are 
>probably(and unfortunately) hearing a mechanical problem such as 
>piston slap or bad lifters.
>

======================================================
On my last 350 TBI engine, I noticed that if the engine was hot (190 deg. F)
and the inlet air was hot, if you advanced the timeing you would hear what
sounded like detonation. You did not have to go far! When the timeing was
retarded the sounds would go away. Let me also add that you don't hear the
sound just off idle and it's around the same sound level of the injectors
clicks. The hood must be up to even hear the sounds.  When under full
throttle, I'm sure that it's slightly detonating. I'm not sure if the ECM is
detecting 100% of the detanation. I once herd that the GM ESC will rattle
just a little, some times, at full load. I've herd a TBI rattle with the
nock sensor disconnected at full load. My TPI is no way near this. BTW
79,000 miles on the clock, car was driven every day, auh 'aggressively' but
well pampered as far as maintenance is concerned. It kissed another car.

Thanks for your input Dudes.

GMD


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Mar  2 01:24:18 1996
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Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 20:14:29 -0500 (EST)
From: John Napoli <jgn@li.net>
To: diy_efi
cc: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Totally tubular, man
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It is not, but they have an 800 #.

BTW, for mandrel-bent tubing, try your local muffler shop!

Regards,

John

On Fri, 1 Mar 1996, Tarun Patel wrote:

> Is JC Whitney catalog ON-Line ??
> 
> 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Mar  2 18:42:47 1996
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>From: renns@bserv.com (Roger Enns)
>Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 07:48:34 GMT
>Subject: Re: Totally tubular, man
>
>>
>>Where can I find mandrel bent "U" shaped aluminum and steel tubing for 
>>fabricating intake and exhaust plumbing?
>>
>>                                                         Dan Bocek
>
>Check out the exhaust section of your JC Whitney catalog.

I've bought a lot of tubing from JC Whitney. They are by far the lowest
price I've found but they are inconsistant in both delivery and tube wall
thickness. Usually I get 20 guage, but ometimes it comes as 18 guage or
thicker. The stuff is real good for test pipes but if you're goung to make
something real nice and chrome it or something go to Aircone in Henderson,
NV. These guys are much more expensive, though. They will also make up
tapers and colectors.

As far as other materials: Kinsler sells AL U-bends; funny thing, they're
not cheap. Not a very good selection, either. I don't know of another source
for AL and I'd like to know of one.

Aircraft Spruce sells thinwall Stainless u-bends. Their # is 800 824 1930.
They have all sorts of other materials in their catalogue, and they sell in
small quantities, too.

Anybody got a lead for TI tubing?


Sam


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Mar  2 22:12:52 1996
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Subject: Re: Hi-resolution Crank angle sensor
To: diy_efi
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 16:56:53 -0500 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <9602010301.AA18735@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca> from "dn" at Feb 29, 96 08:01:06 pm
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Darrell A. Norquay wrote:
> > As a matter of interest the Nissan 300 ZX Twin Turbo distributor has 2
> > sensors in it. One reads crank angle from the 360 lines on the disc and the
> > other reads an encoded cylinder number from the 3 digit code. Japanese
> > engineering!
> 
> I was actually surprised that no one was doing this. (until now, that is) 
> This is a combination of a relative position sensor (the 360 lines) and an 
> absolute position sensor (the 3 digit coded portion of the wheel)  There
> are many examples of commercially available encoders of both types, but
> to my knowledge there is no combination of the 2 used in industrial
> position sensing.  For a DIS type system, should be easy to substitute an
> optical encoder for the guts of the distributor and get any timing accuracy 
> you want.  Optical encoders are notoriously fragile, however, and you may
> have a hard time finding one that will live a long and fruitful life in the 
> underhood environment...

Okay..I didn't bother to mention this because I figured it was more trouble
than it was worth but I was thinking in terms of optical encoders instead of
magnetic ones because optical encoders are infinitely easier to work with for
home construction because I can simply take a flat disk and drill hole patterns
in it with much better precision than I think I could get away with making
a toothed ring/gear.

As for survivability, I think the only way to get an optical encoder to
survive is to get it really good and sealed up. I'm thinking that the part
that holds the interruptor modules should be part of a shroud that totally
encases the optical encoder wheel except for maybe a hole at the bottom for
drainage and a hole for the shaft that is turning.

As for using the standard white/black markings, I don't think this is a good
idea. Putting a hole completely through a disk lets you put sensors on either
side and as long as the holes don't get clogged (easier to clean than
munging up a nice optical encoder pattern on plain white paper) is probably
just as easy to make. Also, standard emitter/receiver pairs are available for
about $3 (check a Digikey catalog) that are already set up for that
arrangement.

The advantage of the magnetic encoder is that there's much less opportunity
for the disk to get munged up since it is just a gear and will tend to
centerfuge off anything that isn't sufficiently sticky (assuming you have it
exposed). I don't know what your controller would think of having the
encoder immersed half in water or some really nasty mud though.

Now..to comment on a few other things that were said..the reason I was
thinking in terms of totally analog PLL's instead of digital ones is that
in analog, making up the various filters in the loops requires only a couple
fairly cheap op-amps. Reading the resulting output can be done with counters.
I was trying to come up with a way that the CPU could just read an external
8 bit register whenever it was ready and the hardware would handle most of
the filtering before it got to the CPU. I figured a simple 1 or 2 pole filter
on a PLL (which inherently cleans up noise and does the differentiation on
the input signal) would be a cheaper and simpler route than doing all the
data smoothing/cleaning in the CPU. You'll have to use an A/D on the error
voltage then (okay..you can do slope integration and such but it's still
A/D when you get down to it), but the loop does all the filtering. I was
still trying to think in terms of something that could be easily constructed
for the .1 kilobuck range. But..I just found out about the ADSP2181 this
week so I may be tempted back into the totally digital filtering realm (the
problem with the $10 ADSP2105 was the development system cost..the ADSP2181
development system is $90 which changes the picture significantly).

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Mar  3 03:54:48 1996
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Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 22:44:42 -0500
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To: diy_efi
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In a message dated 96-03-01 09:43:50 EST, you write:

>How about a free-piston engine to drive the turbine directly?  Or, yet, a
>combustion chamber (a la a real gas turbine engine) to generate hot gas? 
>
>

Pardon my density... but... what IS a free-piston engine?

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Mar  3 03:57:49 1996
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In a message dated 96-03-01 03:17:46 EST, you write:

>There is available very powerful electric motors to be used in
>electric r/c aeroplanes, those might be usable also. I think they 
>are available about same power levels as glow-plug model engines.

Yeah there are some available that put out comparable levels of power.. but
they're mainly equivalent to .049's and the like.. and when you put them in
the high heat environs under the hood, the lifespan and the efficiency are
going to go WAY down... :<   Guess I'm gonna have to spring for that full on
exhaust manifold and turbo system... :<

Anybody got any other ideas about increasing the power?? I have heard there
are some "run-what-ya-brung" type things to increase efficiency <POWER!> By
tuning... 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Mar  3 17:28:21 1996
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Date: 	Sun, 3 Mar 1996 12:16:27 -0500
From: CHAN WEN YEN <chanwe@ecf.toronto.edu>
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I'm repairing a 1990 Acura Integra with the 1.8 l engine (no MAF sensor)
. The engine has a rough idle when the ambient air temperature is below
zero and the engine is warm. The idle will dip as low as 500 RPM when the
brake is applied (the car is not automatic) and will eventually settle
just below the normal idle (normal idle - 750). The idle will also
fluctuate +/- 50 RPM @ idle. During periods of rough idling the 
vacuum fluctuates rapidly +/- 1/4 inHG about 19 inHG.

	I have changed the air and fuel filters, the spark plugs, the
distributor cap, the PCV valve, reset the base idle & advance, set the
valve lash, removed the carbon from the intake manifold, throttle plate
& valves and used about 4 doses of fuel injector cleaner (motormaster
brand). After changing the air & fuel filters the idle was smooth &
stable for about 5 min.

	I would appreciate any advice. Thanks.

WenYen Chan
chanwe@ecf.utoronto.ca


p.s. has anyone considered using 1) a nitromethane/methanol fuel blend
(ie: model airplane fuel)? 2) a scuba tank with a high flow regulator
feeding the intake instead of turbo.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Mar  3 20:11:03 1996
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 1996 19:40:56
Subject: Re: Turbo Lag
From: "Brian Warburton, c/o Turbo Systems Ltd" <bwarb@turbo.win-uk.net>
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Maybe I've got the wrong end of the stick on this one, but it
appears to me that this idea uses a pump of some kind to produce a
tank of compressed air under low-load conditions. This tank of
compressed air is then used when needed, to drive a compressor to
produce, yes you've guessed it, compressed air. Once you've got
your tank of compressed air, why not regulate it and blow it
straight though your throttle body and cut out all those mechanical
losses inherrant in the second pump/compressor ? 

                        Brian Warburton 

>
>>Check this out, an air motor connected to a centrifugal blower. Air tools
>frequently turn at very high speeds. A mid size air motor might be the
>ticket. Imagine a small air tank and an electric or engine driven pump.
>During low load, the pump tanks the air under high pressure. When boost is
>needed, high flow solenoids open up and all hell breaks lose. Almost no
>parasitic losses and instant gratification! This should be possible with off
>the shelf components. As always, EFI would be needed to make the system
>really work. 
>>
> GMD



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar  4 00:59:26 1996
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Date: Sun, 03 Mar 1996 19:35:20 -0800
To: diy_efi
From: Bill Sarkozy <mymove@serv01.net-link.net>
Subject: Re: Turbo Lag
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At 07:40 PM 3/3/96, you wrote:
>Maybe I've got the wrong end of the stick on this one, but it
>appears to me that this idea uses a pump of some kind to produce a
>tank of compressed air under low-load conditions. This tank of
>compressed air is then used when needed, to drive a compressor to
>produce, yes you've guessed it, compressed air. Once you've got
>your tank of compressed air, why not regulate it and blow it
>straight though your throttle body and cut out all those mechanical
>losses inherrant in the second pump/compressor ? 
>
>                        Brian Warburton 
>
>>
>>>Check this out, an air motor connected to a centrifugal blower. Air tools
>>frequently turn at very high speeds. A mid size air motor might be the
>>ticket. Imagine a small air tank and an electric or engine driven pump.
>>During low load, the pump tanks the air under high pressure. When boost is
>>needed, high flow solenoids open up and all hell breaks lose. Almost no
>>parasitic losses and instant gratification! This should be possible with off
>>the shelf components. As always, EFI would be needed to make the system
>>really work. 
>>>
>> GMD
>
>
I think you'll find that an air motor used to  spin up a centrifugal
compressor would require air at substantial pressure (i.e. >100 psi).   A
centrifugal turbine wouldn't have a prayer of delivering air at that
pressure.  You'd need the equivilent of an electric transfomer to convert
low-pressure/high-volume air to the high-pressure/low-volume air required by
the air motor.....or else compress the air directly using a (gasp!)
belt-driven vane or piston compressor.  The beauty of the turbocharger is
that both the input and output sections are of similar "impedance" and no
transformation is required.  

                                                                            
          Bill


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar  4 05:50:58 1996
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From: arthurok@ix.netcom.com (ARTHUR OKUN )
Subject: Re: Turbo Lag
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i think a high output  alternator  w high voltage  high frequency out 
put  and some sort of  electronic regulator device remember a 300 amp 
alternator could be made quite small and being 3 phase is easily 
rectified   to  150 or 300 vdc maximum and being a rotating field alt.
the power output could be easily regulated all you need is a special 
field or use a step up trans former  . question ': howmany horse power 
does a turbochager TURBINE develope?   i dont think it'sreally that 
much. few hp ???.
believe me an electronic approach is much better than air .;but i do 
LIKE the hydralic motor approach but those thing turn quite slow
and speed increasers arent always that reliable  .  

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar  4 10:32:16 1996
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From: Gerald Luiz <gfl@dilbert.hpl.hp.com>
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Subject: Re: Optical Dist sensors
To: diy_efi
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 1996 2:18:15 PST
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Actually, the 300ZX don't have a distributor...the disc is attached to
the end of a camshaft.  I didn't understand the comment about reading
the code to determine the cyl #.  They have the 360 slots as described.
Concentric with those, they have holes every 60 deg., since it runs
at cam speed and 6 cyl.  These inner slots alternate widths and
#1 (0 deg) is different from all the rest.  If anyone is interested,
I can post the manual page (not that much info except for the picture).

Gerald Luiz
gluiz@hpl.hp.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar  4 15:01:33 1996
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From: "Paul E. Campbell" <pecampbe@mtu.edu>
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Subject: Re: Optical Dist sensors
To: diy_efi
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 09:46:29 -0500 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <199603041018.AA245604695@dilbert.hpl.hp.com> from "Gerald Luiz" at Mar 4, 96 02:18:15 am
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> Actually, the 300ZX don't have a distributor...the disc is attached to
> the end of a camshaft.  I didn't understand the comment about reading
> the code to determine the cyl #.

Easy..say you put 3 different optical sensors in. Then put a pattern in front
of them that has black and white marks which are the binary codes for the
cylinder (000, 001, 010, 011, 100, 101, 110, 111).

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar  4 18:52:38 1996
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From: WERNER_HAUSSMANN@HP-Loveland-om2.om.hp.com
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Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
I have converted a carburetted, 4-cylinder, '75 MGB to Bosch L-Jetronic 
Fuel Injection.  The car works fine and there are no problems with the 
conversion.  The purpose was mostly to see if it could be done, and to 
improve on the mixture accuracy.  No lambda sesor is used.

The L-Jetronic uses the trottle position to change the A/F ratio.  At about 
2/3 full trottle a switch closes and enriches the mixture.

Later versions of the Bosch system used manifold vacuum to activate a 
switch.  I want to change my system to this method. I want to enrich the 
mixture when the manifold vacuum drops.


Does anyone have the Bosch number for such a switch?  Where can I get one? 
Or what kind of car has this part so I can get it from a junk yard?

Any help is appreciated.


Werner

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar  4 22:25:20 1996
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Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 14:09:06 -0800 (PST)
From: Sean McManus <mcmansp2@u.washington.edu>
To: diy_efi <diy_efi>
Subject: Fuel Maps
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My main question here is:
How does everyone out there tune the fuel (and ignition) maps on their 
system?

Ultimately, the engine should be put on a dyno and loaded in all sorts of 
conditions while the exhaust CO, HC, O2 and CO2 is monitored, as well as 
rpm, torque, manifold pressure, etc. Unfortunately, most of us don't 
have the funds for this type of testing.

The alternate method that seems most feasible is using an on board O2 sensor 
based A/F meter such as Haltech's or K&N's, tuning the system by driving 
the car and watching the meter at various conditions. 

1) Has anyone had any luck dialing in their system in this manner?
2) Can an O2 sensor based A/F meter be purchased or fabricated for less 
than the $150-$200 range that I've seen them going for so far?


Thanks in advance,

Sean McManus
University of Washington Formula SAE
Yamaha FZR 600 power, modified Haltech F3/Siemens fuel system


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar  4 23:04:47 1996
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From: arthurok@ix.netcom.com (ARTHUR OKUN )
Subject: Re: 
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heres an idea  take a gm  map sensor  and use the  signal output 0- 
5vdc  to drive a schmitt trigger circuit  with  a variable  trip point 
and settable hysterisis  "  all it takes is a op amp and a  relay".

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar  4 23:18:55 1996
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From: Gerald Luiz <gfl@dilbert.hpl.hp.com>
Message-Id: <199603042309.AA254560973@dilbert.hpl.hp.com>
Subject: Re: Optical Dist sensors
To: diy_efi
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 1996 15:09:33 PST
In-Reply-To: <199603041446.JAA06719@metlab6.my.mtu.edu>; from "Paul E. Campbell" at Mar 4, 96 9:46 am
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> 
> > Actually, the 300ZX don't have a distributor...the disc is attached to
> > the end of a camshaft.  I didn't understand the comment about reading
> > the code to determine the cyl #.
> 
> Easy..say you put 3 different optical sensors in. Then put a pattern in front
> of them that has black and white marks which are the binary codes for the
> cylinder (000, 001, 010, 011, 100, 101, 110, 111).
> 
Right.  I was actaully trying to say that I didn't understand the coding on
the Nissan b/c it does not have black/white patterns...just holes/slots.
They must detect the width of the pulse (slots different widths) to mark
60/120 etc.  I wonder if the end of a slot corresponds to 60 deg or the
beginning of a hole.  I expect the former.

Gerald Luiz
gluiz@hpl.hp.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar  4 23:19:04 1996
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From: Andrew Dalgleish <andrewd@axonet.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi'" <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: Optical Dist sensors
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 96 10:04:00 S
Message-ID: <313B8617@axonet.com.au>
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Generating the pattern is pretty easy with a PC and printer, although the   
resolution wouldn't be good enough. If you print it out at some huge   
resolution then reduce it photographically it'd be ok. Any photographer   
could do it for you. Or print it inverse then just use the film negative.

You need at least two sensors anyway (one for cylinder #1 TDC and one for   
angular resolution), so going to 3 or more isn't going to be much dearer.

Using two (or more) "tracks" with quadrature encoding could give you very   
fine angular resolution.
++++++++++++
 --__--__--__ Sensor 1
_--__--__--_ Sensor 2
 -_-_-_-_-_-_ Exclusive OR
++++++++++++
 ---___---___ Sensor 1
_---___---__ Sensor 2
__---___---_ Sensor 3
 -_-_-_-_-_-_ Exclusive OR
++++++++++++
(view this with a fixed-pitch font, eg Courier)

Makes me wonder why I piddled around using counter chips all these years.

Hmm... time to investigate multiple sensor arrays.
I recall seeing a 16-pin DIP with 8 photo-transistors in it years ago.
A British magazine had a kit to store programs, etc. on paper.
Can anyone help my memory?
Regards,
Andrew Dalgleish
Axon Research, Pty Ltd
6 Wallace Ave,
Toorak, VIC
3142
AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-3-9826-5538
Fax +61-3-9824-0083

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 00:03:17 1996
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From: WERNER_HAUSSMANN@HP-Loveland-om2.om.hp.com
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Subject: Re: L-jetronic
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Item Subject: L-jetronic
Hi James

I'm new at this list, so I don't know if I should reply to each person, or 
send my reply to DIY_EFI.  I never did see my own message, so I don't know 
how everyone else saw it. Am I getting other peoples messages?


Anyway, James, you're not confused.  The my L-Jetronic does have an air 
meter.  It also has a lambda sensor. At 2/3 or more trottle a switch 
closes, and the lambda sensor circuit is disconnected, the mixture gets 
richer by about 4% for a little more power and knock protection.  Later ( 
oh.... about '86) the trottle switch was replaced with a vacuum switch to 
sense the manifold.  This way even when the trottle is opened only half way 
at low rpm, the vacuum drops, the switch closes and the mixture goes rich 
by ~4%.


James, thanks for the offer of the '79 Supra, but no. I have all the parts 
I need, except this vacuum switch to replace the switch on the trottle 
shaft.


The parts came from a '83 Renault Fuego. Most of the information came from 
the Bosch FI book ( I don't have the author handy) the the FI book by 
Hartman.  


Actual data is very hard to come by.  I had no luck getting data from 
Bosch.  If you need specifics I may be able to help.  But not much.



Werner







______________________________ Forward Header __________________________
Subject: Re: L-jetronic
Author:  Non-HP-james (james@brc.ubc.ca) at HP-ColSprings,mimegw2
Date:    3/4/96 4:21 PM




Werner, I thought that the L-jetronic (1979 and on) used an air flow 
meter, manifold vacuum to control A/F ratio????
The later LH-jetronic added and oxygen sensor.  Am I confused???

Anyway I have a friend with a '79 Toyota Supra that has died at my 
parents place.  I might be able to persuade him to part it out.  It has 
the LH-jetronic and except for a couple of fuel pressure hoses the system 
works fine.  Are you interested at all????  The car has blown a head 
gasket and thus he's got to tow it away to a wrecker and he'll probably 
get nothing for it.


Sorry Werner I forgot to ask you if your L-type was a speed 
density system???  Where did you get your parts from for the conversion 
(ie. what car that is?)   Do you have a good reference book that gives 
physical data on different sensors??  Like resistance of different coolant 
temp. sensors and whether they change their resistance in a  linear, 
geometric or logarithmic fashion????? 

Thanks in advance

jw

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 00:31:18 1996
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Subject: Re: L-jet on an MGB
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Item Subject: 1.txt "unix headers"
Could not convert BINARY FILE item to text.
Will attempt to 'shar' item as file '01v3m87' at end of msg.

.......................................................................

Item Subject: L-jet on an MGB
Hi Andy

When I started, I knew nothing.  Now that I have done one, it seems very 
easy. What kind of car do you have.  If you have a Renault engine, it 
should be a piece of cake.

The MGB had special problems.  It has a siamese intake port (Two intake 
valves with one intake hole on the head).  Worse, the intake stroke for 
this siamese port is not symetrical.  I had intentions of having port 
injection, but because of the siamese ports with non-symetrical intake 
stroke I decided to go the trottle body injection route.  This is 
undesirable, and not necessary if you have individual ports per cylinder.

The system I used was from a '83 Fuego. I used everything.  The 
complication came two ways.  

1. I had to match a trottlle body injector to the system. I used a Ford 
trottle body with a single Bosch injector.

2. The other trick was the mixture.  I wanted to run at a richer mixture 
than the 'ideal'.  Mostly because the manifold was not designed for a lean 
mixture.


To mount the injectors, I suggest you try to get a FI manifold from a car 
with the same engine but at a later time.  Lotus did a lot with Renault 
engines didn't they?  If you have a modified Renault engine (Lotus Europa), 
check out the Jeff Hartman book 'Fuel Injection; Installation, Performance 
Tuning, Modification.

Anyway mountings are available for injectors, that book gives some 
examples.


Werner


______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
Subject: Re: L-jet on an MGB
Author:  Non-HP-ajh (ajh@diamond.idbsu.edu) at HP-ColSprings,shargw2
Date:    3/4/96 4:18 PM



Werner,

I'm thinking also of putting FI onto my 70's British car (Lotus).
What did you think overall of your project?  How did you deal with the 
intake manifold, esp. with installation of the injectors?  Does the 
range of air and fuel flow rates seem reasonable?  Did you acquire 
your L-jet new or salvaged?

thanks,
andy




# This is a shell archive.  Remove anything before this line,
# then unpack it by saving it in a file and typing "sh file".
#
# Wrapped by HP OpenMail user <openmail@csitcom2> on Mon Mar  4 17:13:13 1996
#
# This archive contains:
#	01v3m87	
#
# Error checking via wc(1) will be performed.

LANG=""; export LANG
PATH=/bin:/usr/bin:$PATH; export PATH


rm -f /tmp/uud$$
(echo "begin 666 /tmp/uud$$\n#;VL*n#6%@x\n \nend" | uudecode) >/dev/null 2>&1
if [ X"`cat /tmp/uud$$ 2>&1`" = Xok ]
then
	unpacker=uudecode
else
	echo Compiling unpacker for non-ascii files
	pwd=`pwd`; cd /tmp
	cat >unpack$$.c <<'EOF'
#include <stdio.h>
#define C (*p++ - ' ' & 077)
main()
{
	int n;
	char buf[128], *p, a,b;

	scanf("begin %o ", &n);
	gets(buf);

	if (freopen(buf, "w", stdout) == NULL) {
		perror(buf);
		exit(1);
	}

	while (gets(p=buf) && (n=C)) {
		while (n>0) {
			a = C;
			if (n-- > 0) putchar(a << 2 | (b=C) >> 4);
			if (n-- > 0) putchar(b << 4 | (a=C) >> 2);
			if (n-- > 0) putchar(a << 6 | C);
		}
	}
	exit(0);
}
EOF
	cc -o unpack$$ unpack$$.c
	rm unpack$$.c
	cd $pwd
	unpacker=/tmp/unpack$$
fi
rm -f /tmp/uud$$

echo x - 01v3m87 '[non-ascii]'
$unpacker <<'@eof'
begin 660 01v3m87
M4F5C96EV960Z(&9R;VT@<F5L87DN:' N8V]M(&)Y(&-S:71C;VTR+F-S+FETX
M8RYH<"YC;VT@=VET:"!%4TU44 T*"2@Q+C,W+C$P.2XQ-B\Q-2XU*T5#4R SX
M+C0@3W!E;FUA:6PI(&ED($%!,C8Y,#8Q-#8X.R!-;VXL(#0@36%R(#$Y.38@X
M,38Z,3<Z-#D@+3 W,# -"E)E8V5I=F5D.B!F<F]M(&1I86UO;F0N:61B<W4NX
M961U(&)Y(')E;&%Y+FAP+F-O;2!W:71H($533510#0H)*#$N,S<N,3 Y+C$VX
M+S$U+C4K14-3(#,N,RD@:60@04$P-34Q-#$T-C@[($UO;BP@-"!-87(@,3DYX
M-B Q-3HQ-SHT." M,#@P, T*365S<V%G92U)9#H@/#$Y.38P,S T,C,Q-RY!X
M03 U-3$T,30V.$!R96QA>2YH<"YC;VT^#0I296-E:79E9#H@8GD@9&EA;6]NX
M9"YI9&)S=2YE9'4-"@DH,2XS-RXQ,#DN,38O,38N,BD@:60@04$Q-C,W-C$TX
M.#D[($UO;BP@-"!-87(@,3DY-B Q-CHQ.#HP.2 M,#<P, T*1&%T93H@36]NX
M+" T($UA<B Q.3DV(#$V.C$X.C Y("TP-S P#0I&<F]M.B!!;F1R97<@2'5AX
M;F<@/&%J:$!D:6%M;VYD+FED8G-U+F5D=3X-"E1O.B!715).15)?2$%54U--X
M04Y.0$A0+4QO=F5L86YD+6]M,BYO;2YH<"YC;VT-"DEN+5)E<&QY+51O.B \X
M2# P,#!F8V$P,V5F,68R.4!-2%,^("A715).15)?2$%54U--04Y.0$A0+4QOX
M=F5L86YD+6]M,BYO;2YH<"YC;VTI#0I3=6)J96-T.B!,+6IE="!O;B!A;B!-X
$1T(-"FYD                                                    X
                                                             X
end
@eof
set `wc -lwc <01v3m87`
if test $1$2$3 != 1270679
then
	echo ERROR: wc results of 01v3m87 are $* should be 12 70 679
fi

chmod 660 01v3m87

rm -f /tmp/unpack$$
exit 0

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 03:45:10 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: Brad Martin <btm@usa.nai.net>
Subject: watercooled VW EFI Q's
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

Hello fellow listsurfers-

I have several variations of the watercooled VW FI systems and I'd love some
more info on them...  My assortment includes about a dozen systems ranging
from '77 Rabbit to '84 Rabbit GTI stuff (a very little Golf also).  It
appears to me that the earliest systems are completely mechanical... ie air
flow meter controls fuel pressure in the loop, excess discarded back to
tank.  What are the pro & cons of a completely mech. system esp. in a racing
app. (racing=Dirt pro-rally, hillclimb (paved & dirt), road race, autox)?
Then you've got the electronic version both w/o & w/ O2 sensor & it seems
that this is where there are some varying orifice dimensions across models &
years, both in throttle body & air flow meter (whats the proper name for
this?) How can I choose an optimum induction system diameter after engine mods?
Does anyone have a schematic of the guts of the black box - both idle
stabilzer and ignition control unit if possible?
I know I'm firing off alot of questions, but I guess my general intent is to
stir up the VW lurkers<g>!

Thanks!
and here's my vote for an excellent forum...

Regards-
Brad Martin
 '92 Subaru SVX
 '84 VW Rabbit GTI ex-PRO Rally car, now all 'round racer/beater
 '83 VW Rabbit GTI PRO Rally Car wannabe - hillclimbs too
 '81 VW Scirocco S street car TBD
 '79 VW Scirocco ice racer
====
Also, you may want to check out:
  http://www.win.net/bmicad/welcome.html   (bmi CAD's homepage)
  http://www.win.net/bmicad/strahome.html  (Stealth Racing's homepage)
  http://www.win.net/bmicad/nehahome.html  (New England Hillclimb
Association's homepage)


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 03:45:13 1996
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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 11:22:50 +0800
To: diy_efi
From: Adam Tate <at@multiline.com.au>
Subject: Re: Fuel Maps
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

At 02:09 PM 4/3/96 -0800, you wrote:

>2) Can an O2 sensor based A/F meter be purchased or fabricated for less 
>than the $150-$200 range that I've seen them going for so far?

Here in Australia you can buy this in kit form for $20 from a place called
Jaycar electronics. If you check out the DIY fuel injection web site there
are also plans there for this type of meter.

Adam Tate.
[at@multiline.com.au]
http://www.multiline.com.au/~atate/index.html


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 04:13:38 1996
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Subject: RE: Optical Dist sensors
To: diy_efi
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 96 20:54:58 MDT
From: dn <dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
In-Reply-To: <313B8617@axonet.com.au>; from "Andrew Dalgleish" at Mar 5, 96 10:04 am
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 Andrew Dalgleish writes:

> Generating the pattern is pretty easy with a PC and printer, although the   
> resolution wouldn't be good enough. If you print it out at some huge   
> resolution then reduce it photographically it'd be ok. Any photographer   
> could do it for you. Or print it inverse then just use the film negative.

I actually did this one time to make my own encoder.  I generated the pattern
with a CAD program (Generic Cadd), output the file in Postscript, and printed
it on the laser printer on clear transparency film.  Worked great!  The 
pattern came out crystal clear, I then glued the transparent film onto an 
aluminum disk and used reflective opto sensors to read it.  I ended up using 
a commercial encoder, however, because the housing was too expensive to
machine in quantity.  I assume there would be a limit as to how small you 
could go using this method, but a decent laser printer could make the thing 
very small with very little loss in image quality.  Using a CADD program, 
you can scale the drawing to any size you want.

> You need at least two sensors anyway (one for cylinder #1 TDC and one for   
> angular resolution), so going to 3 or more isn't going to be much dearer.

All you really need is the 2 quadrature tracks, plus a single "index" marker
which generates a pulse once per revolution.  In this manner, you have a sync
pulse which tells you when you have gone one full turn, and simply reference
everything to the sync pulse...

> Makes me wonder why I piddled around using counter chips all these years.

Look into the Hewlett Packard HCTL2016 chip - it has a complete quadrature
decoder with digital filtering, and a 16 bit counter readable by any CPU.
Works like a damn, and is really easy to use...

> Hmm... time to investigate multiple sensor arrays.
> I recall seeing a 16-pin DIP with 8 photo-transistors in it years ago.

These were used in the ancient but venerable paper tape readers.  I doubt if
you could still find them, but I think TI used to make some.  They still
make linear CCD arrays, but these are kind of a pain to interface.  You could
always use discrete surface mount photo transistors, you can pack them really 
close together.  This is what most optical encoder manufacturers use.  
Difficult to work with SMD components, though. 

regards
dn


--
---------------------------------------------------------------------
 Darrell A. Norquay              Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca     
 Datalog Technology Inc.         Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell
 Calgary, Alberta, Canada        Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220            
                                 Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872            
    @ +                                                                
     <                                                         
    __/    "Absolutum Obsoletum" - If it works, it's obsolete    
 --------------------------------------------------------------------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 04:30:56 1996
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Subject: Re: Optical Dist sensors
To: diy_efi
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 96 21:07:37 MDT
From: dn <dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
In-Reply-To: <199603042309.AA254560973@dilbert.hpl.hp.com>; from "Gerald Luiz" at Mar 4, 96 3:09 pm
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Gerald Luiz wrote:

> Right.  I was actaully trying to say that I didn't understand the coding on
> the Nissan b/c it does not have black/white patterns...just holes/slots.
> They must detect the width of the pulse (slots different widths) to mark
> 60/120 etc.  I wonder if the end of a slot corresponds to 60 deg or the
> beginning of a hole.  I expect the former.

Are the slots radial or circular?  If they are radial, they may be just 
positioned every x degrees and give a pulse when they pass by the sensor.
If they are circular, it may be that they use a Gray Code scheme, which 
gives a unique binary position indication for each pattern of holes.  With
this setup, there would have to be at least 3 sensors, corresponding to
3 sets of semicircular slots.  With the radial method, there would only be
1 sensor.  In either case, the sensors/light sources would be arranged in 
pairs, one on each side of the disk, and where there is a hole, the light 
would shine through and activate the sensor, no hole would block light and 
the sensor would be off.

regards
dn



--
---------------------------------------------------------------------
 Darrell A. Norquay              Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca     
 Datalog Technology Inc.         Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell
 Calgary, Alberta, Canada        Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220            
                                 Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872            
    @ +                                                                
     <                                                         
    __/    "Absolutum Obsoletum" - If it works, it's obsolete    
 --------------------------------------------------------------------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 05:36:25 1996
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #64
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

>From: CHAN WEN YEN <chanwe@ecf.toronto.edu>
>Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 12:16:27 -0500
>Subject: rough idle -- help
>
>I'm repairing a 1990 Acura Integra with the 1.8 l engine (no MAF sensor)
>. The engine has a rough idle when the ambient air temperature is below
>zero and the engine is warm. The idle will dip as low as 500 RPM when the
>brake is applied (the car is not automatic) and will eventually settle
>just below the normal idle (normal idle - 750). The idle will also
>fluctuate +/- 50 RPM @ idle. During periods of rough idling the 
>vacuum fluctuates rapidly +/- 1/4 inHG about 19 inHG.
>
>	I have changed the air and fuel filters, the spark plugs, the
>distributor cap, the PCV valve, reset the base idle & advance, set the
>valve lash, removed the carbon from the intake manifold, throttle plate
>& valves and used about 4 doses of fuel injector cleaner (motormaster
>brand). After changing the air & fuel filters the idle was smooth &
>stable for about 5 min.

Watch the voltage at the EACV (idle valve) or try pinching the hose to it.
If the idle stops bouncing around, it could be sticky, or the ECU is being
fooled somehow.  Take the valve off and turn the key from off too accessory.
It should open fully and close fully when the key is turned off.  Things
that affect EACV voltage would be: electric load detector, coolant temp
sensor, throttle position, rpm, basicaly lots to look at.  Try and get a
factory shop manual for a good explanation of how it all works.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 05:44:28 1996
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From: MTaylorfi@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 00:37:11 -0500
Message-ID: <960305003710_160423337@mail06.mail.aol.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Optical Dist sensors
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

Better to use grey code

000, 001, 011, 010, 110, 111, 101, 100.

Only one bit is changed at a time.  Useful in error checking....

See ya,

Mike

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 06:03:43 1996
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From: MTaylorfi@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 00:51:03 -0500
Message-ID: <960305005102_160433194@mail02.mail.aol.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Volumetric eff.
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

I was wondering, does anyone know of a function that roughly follows the V.E.
vs. RPM of an engine.  Engine size, manifold pressure and intake temperature
I'm sure affect V.E., but I'm just looking for a cheap estimate.

All you MAP die-hards have made me rethink my already working MAF based EFI
system.  The $150 MAF sensor is pricey..

See ya and thanks in advanced!!

Mike 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 07:28:27 1996
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	id XAA20937; Mon, 4 Mar 1996 23:16:52 -0800
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 23:16:52 -0800
Message-Id: <199603050716.XAA20937@ix8.ix.netcom.com>
From: arthurok@ix.netcom.com (ARTHUR OKUN )
Subject: Re: Volumetric eff.
To: diy_efi
Sender: owner-diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

thats why many cars dont use a maf  or use one of  inferior design or 
quality  do you realize how much the customer would pay for a $150 item
on a new car  i dont think the ones that ford or gm uses cost that much
for them to manufacture.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 13:39:32 1996
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From: "David M Parrish" <dmp@bmesun1.MCG.EDU>
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 08:52:55 +0000
Subject: Subaru EFI
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I'm trying to hack my way into the control box for a Subaru SVX 
engine made by JECS. The EPROM is a Fujitsu 27C1028 which I couldn't 
find in my meager databook collection. I tried reading the EPROM as a 
27C1024, but just got garbage. I'm assuming the -28 is a protected 
device. Any suggestions?

---
David Parrish

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 14:52:47 1996
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From: Bruce Bowling <bowling@cebaf.gov>
Subject: Re:
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 9:39:31 EST
In-Reply-To: <199603042249.OAA26471@ix11.ix.netcom.com>; from "ARTHUR OKUN" at Mar 04, 96 2:49 pm
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~ 
~ heres an idea  take a gm  map sensor  and use the  signal output 0- 
~ 5vdc  to drive a schmitt trigger circuit  with  a variable  trip point 
~ and settable hysterisis  "  all it takes is a op amp and a  relay".
~ 

Does the GM MAP sensor put out a 0-5 volt signal? (I have always wondered).
If so, could someone out there elaborate (on pinout, range, etc.)?

- Bruce


--
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------
               Bruce A. Bowling
  Staff Scientist - Instrumentation and Controls
 The Continuous Electron Beam Accelerator Facility
    12000 Jefferson Ave - Newport News, VA 23602
                 (804) 249-7240
                bowling@cebaf.gov  
        http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 16:03:34 1996
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Subject: Re: L-jetronic
To: orin@nr.infi.net, DIY_EFI
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Hi Orin

Yes the car runs good with the Bosch system.  I increased the pressure at the 
injector to 17.5lb, and loosened the spring at the air meter by two notches.  
That worked real good. I later found a way to increase fuel flow by modifying 
the analog computer.  This allowed me to use a standard air meter.

The thing I want to do now is delete the trottle switch for enrichment. I never 
got it to fit well. I am looking for a vacuum switch for the fuel enrichment.  
The L-Jetronic system you used has such a switch. Do you have the Bosch number 
or do you have one?  

The injector I am using is four times a standard 288 cc/sec flow.  I am doing 
this by memory, so it may be wrong. I gave you the PN  for that injector.



Werner




______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: L-jetronic
Author:  Non-HP-orin (orin@nr.infi.net) at HP-ColSprings,shargw2
Date:    3/5/96 7:45 AM


-- [ From: Orin Harding * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --

Werner,
Did you ever find out what the flow specs. are for the Ford (Bosch) 
injectors are???  I remember you said that you were having trouble with the 
system running lean on the "B"..I had the same problem when I tried your 
approach and never could get the thing to run as I would like.  I also never 
overcame the cold start problems..You know, on very cold days it would idle 
very rough...Warm days ok, but cold days really bad.  I have switched over 
to the Electromotive TEC II and it runs fine, although a little lean, but 
the system is very expensive and defeated the real purpose...A cheap 
replacement for the SU's or Zenith carbs...Let me know how you're making out 
...

Orin
-------- REPLY, Original message follows --------

Date: Monday, 04-Mar-96 04:45 PM

From: WERNER_HAUSSMANN@HP-Loveland-om2.om.hp.com \ Internet:   
(werner_haussmann@hp-loveland-om2.om.hp.com)
To:   DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu \ Internet:   
(diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu)

Subject: Re: L-jetronic

Item Subject: L-jetronic
Hi James

I'm new at this list, so I don't know if I should reply to each person, or 
send my reply to DIY_EFI.  I never did see my own message, so I don't know 
how everyone else saw it. Am I getting other peoples messages?


Anyway, James, you're not confused.  The my L-Jetronic does have an air 
meter.  It also has a lambda sensor. At 2/3 or more trottle a switch  closes 
, and the lambda sensor circuit is disconnected, the mixture gets  richer by 
about 4% for a little more power and knock protection.  Later (  oh.... 
about '86) the trottle switch was replaced with a vacuum switch to  sense 
the manifold.  This way even when the trottle is opened only half way  at 
low rpm, the vacuum drops, the switch closes and the mixture goes rich  by 
~4%.


James, thanks for the offer of the '79 Supra, but no. I have all the parts 
I need, except this vacuum switch to replace the switch on the trottle 
shaft.


The parts came from a '83 Renault Fuego. Most of the information came from 
the Bosch FI book ( I don't have the author handy) the the FI book by 
Hartman.  


Actual data is very hard to come by.  I had no luck getting data from  Bosch 
.  If you need specifics I may be able to help.  But not much.



Werner







______________________________ Forward Header __________________________ 
Subject: Re: L-jetronic
Author:  Non-HP-james (james@brc.ubc.ca) at HP-ColSprings,mimegw2 
Date:    3/4/96 4:21 PM




Werner, I thought that the L-jetronic (1979 and on) used an air flow 
meter, manifold vacuum to control A/F ratio????
The later LH-jetronic added and oxygen sensor.  Am I confused???

Anyway I have a friend with a '79 Toyota Supra that has died at my  parents 
place.  I might be able to persuade him to part it out.  It has  the LH- 
jetronic and except for a couple of fuel pressure hoses the system  works 
fine.  Are you interested at all????  The car has blown a head  gasket and 
thus he's got to tow it away to a wrecker and he'll probably  get nothing 
for it.


Sorry Werner I forgot to ask you if your L-type was a speed  density system? 
??  Where did you get your parts from for the conversion  (ie. what car that 
is?)   Do you have a good reference book that gives  physical data on 
different sensors??  Like resistance of different coolant  temp. sensors and 
whether they change their resistance in a  linear,  geometric or logarithmic 
fashion????? 

Thanks in advance

jw


-------- REPLY, End of original message --------



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 16:12:36 1996
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 10:03:23 -0600 (CST)
From: "Kenneth C. King" <kking@HiWAAY.net>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Optical Dist sensors
In-Reply-To: <960305003710_160423337@mail06.mail.aol.com>
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On Tue, 5 Mar 1996 MTaylorfi@aol.com wrote:
> Better to use grey code
> 000, 001, 011, 010, 110, 111, 101, 100.
> Only one bit is changed at a time.  Useful in error checking....
greetings:
  that's a great set for use in an 8 cyl car.  
for a 6banger, try: 000  001  011  010  110  100
fro a 4banger, try: 000  001  011  010
                or:  00   01   11   10   (using 2 bits)

"ooooh, crumbs!"if the world is nite, shine my life like a lite"live your life
with PASSION"hey waiter, there's a transvestite in my soup"hey mister, are you
tall?"all alone in the nite"son of a son of a sailor"John DeArmond fanclub #13
"he's dead, jim"he's not dead, he's electroencephalographically challenged" kc


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 16:12:41 1996
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From: Brad Martin <btm@usa.nai.net>
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At 08:52 AM 3/5/96 +0000, you wrote:
>I'm trying to hack my way into the control box for a Subaru SVX 
>engine made by JECS. The EPROM is a Fujitsu 27C1028 which I couldn't 
>find in my meager databook collection. I tried reading the EPROM as a 
>27C1024, but just got garbage. I'm assuming the -28 is a protected 
>device. Any suggestions?
>
>---
>David Parrish
David-

Wow, was I suprised to see your email!

I own 2 SVX's and have wanted more info about the ECU, etc for a while.
I do own the factory service manuals, but this is only a small help.

Although my company designs small analog & digital PCB's, I personally have
very little EPROM experience

Pls let me know what you turn up!!  (& I'll do the same of course!)

Regards-
Brad Martin
President

bmi CAD Services
8E Herman Drive
POB 522
Simsbury, CT 06070-0522
860-658-0808 voice
860-658-0404 fax
860-379-6187 voice2  (call here first)
860-738-0471 fax2
sales@bmicad.win.net
====
Also, you may want to check out:
  http://www.win.net/bmicad/welcome.html   (bmi CAD's homepage)
  http://www.win.net/bmicad/strahome.html  (Stealth Racing's homepage)
  http://www.win.net/bmicad/nehahome.html  (New England Hillclimb
Association's homepage)

(The Hacker)
 '92 Subaru SVX
 '84 VW Rabbit GTI ex-PRO Rally car, now all 'round racer/beater
 '83 VW Rabbit GTI PRO Rally Car wannabe - hillclimbs too
 '81 VW Scirocco S street car TBD
 '79 VW Scirocco ice racer


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 16:18:07 1996
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 11:08:27 -0500
From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
Message-Id: <9603051608.AA12339@ivan.gallium.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re:  Volumetric eff.
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Perhaps the best way to ball-park your VE curve is to use one of the engine
simulator programs. Commercial programs, like Engine Analyzer ($80 at Summit)
give VE figures as part of their "dyno" sheets. Bruce Bowling was working
on an engine simulator. I don't know if he's gone any further with it, but
the last time I looked it did not compute VE.

Mike
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 16:36:04 1996
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From: "Sandberg Eric F" <sandberg_eric_f@space.honeywell.com>
Subject:  
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commands

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 16:58:17 1996
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 11:49:47 +0500
From: ehernan3@ford.com (Edward Hernandez (R))
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: L-jet on an MGB
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"I had intentions of having port injection, but because of the siamese
 ports with non-symetrical intake stroke I decided to go the trottle
 body injection route.  This is undesirable, and not necessary if you 
have individual ports per cylinder."

Actually, there is nothing wrong with assymetrical intake ports for 
the DIYer. There are OEM applications with these kind of ports, and if
we can make it work to meet strict emissions and fuel economy 
standards, you can make it work for DIY. Just be careful which at port
you choose for injecting fuel.

"I was wondering, does anyone know of a function that roughly follows 
the V.E. vs. RPM of an engine.  Engine size, manifold pressure and 
intake temperature I'm sure affect V.E., but I'm just looking for a 
cheap estimate."

There is no cheap estimate or generic function. The variables you 
mention and many others preclude the use of generic functions. I'd 
have to agree with M Sargent on the use of commercial programs for 
your best/cheapest bet. They aren't perfect, but will do for DIY.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 16:58:20 1996
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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 17:00:03 1996
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Original-From: bohdan@ihgp.ih.att.com (Bohdan L Bodnar)
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GM and Chrysler MAP sensors have an output which is roughly between 0.1 and
4.9 volts.  At atmospheric pressure, a GM or Chrysler MAP sensor designed for
a self aspirated engine will output around 4.9 volts whereas a sensor designed
for a supercharged engine will output around 2.5 volts.  Ford's MAP sensors
(and BMAP sensors) output a variable frequency.  At atmospheric pressure, the
frequency will be between 155 and 159 Hz.

Please keep in mind that the voltage/frequency reading will be dependent on
altitude, weather conditions, etc.

Typical connections to the sensor:  black (signal ground, NOT power ground),
red (5.0 volts reference), green (output signal, sometimes called "signal
return").

About a year ago I posted a table which gave output frequency vs. pressure for
a Ford MAP sensor.  Now, does anyone have one for Chrysler stuff?  If so,
would you kindly mail it to me?

Thanks,

Bohdan Bodnar
bohdan.l.bodnar@att.com




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Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 11:00:01 -0700
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From: Land Shark <lndshrk@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: Subaru EFI
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At 11:00 AM 3/5/96 GMT, you wrote:
>At 08:52 AM 3/5/96 +0000, you wrote:
>>I'm trying to hack my way into the control box for a Subaru SVX 
>>engine made by JECS. The EPROM is a Fujitsu 27C1028 which I couldn't 
>>find in my meager databook collection. I tried reading the EPROM as a 
>>27C1024, but just got garbage. I'm assuming the -28 is a protected 
>>device. Any suggestions?


  Yeah, I emailed Fujitsu's tech support ...

  Suggest you also call your local Fujitsu distributor 

  Jim Conforti

  PS: WHATS THE PROCESSOR??



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 18:09:44 1996
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From: Bruce Bowling <bowling@cebaf.gov>
Subject: Re:  Volumetric eff.
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 12:52:40 EST
In-Reply-To: <9603051608.AA12339@ivan.gallium.com>; from "Michael F. Sargent" at Mar 05, 96 11:08 am
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~ 
~ Perhaps the best way to ball-park your VE curve is to use one of the engine
~ simulator programs. Commercial programs, like Engine Analyzer ($80 at Summit)
~ give VE figures as part of their "dyno" sheets. Bruce Bowling was working
~ on an engine simulator. I don't know if he's gone any further with it, but
~ the last time I looked it did not compute VE.
~ 
~ Mike
~ +--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
~ | Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
~ | Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
~ +--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
~ 
~ 
No, I never put in VE, because its computation is difficult
to get even in "ballpark" terms.  Re-phrasing: the actual computation
is straightforward, the inputs are massive, much more than an average
person would tolerate while keeping their sanity.


The $80.00 code utilizes an empirical equation, similar (or exactly) to:

VE = 5600 * ((Horsepower)/(RPM * CID)) * 100.0

and will yield $80.00 results.

- Bruce


--
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------
               Bruce A. Bowling
  Staff Scientist - Instrumentation and Controls
 The Continuous Electron Beam Accelerator Facility
    12000 Jefferson Ave - Newport News, VA 23602
                 (804) 249-7240
                bowling@cebaf.gov  
        http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 18:31:49 1996
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From: John T Stein <JSTEIN@dpc2.hdos.hac.com>
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Bruce Bowling wrote:
> 
> Does the GM MAP sensor put out a 0-5 volt signal? (I have always wondered).
> If so, could someone out there elaborate (on pinout, range, etc.)?
> 
> - Bruce


GM MAP sensors put out a 0-5 volt signal as you would expect.  Be 
careful however, some of the GM MAPs have a positive scale factor and 
read ~5 volts at atmospheric pressure and ~ 0 at ~30 inches Hg vacuum 
while others have a NEGATIVE scale factor. This second type reads ~5 volts
at ~ 30  inches Hg and 0 volts at atmospheric pressure.  From experience, the 
sensor GM used on the '83 2.8 L v-6 was the second type while that 
used on the '87 2.5 L four was the first type.

John    

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 18:54:29 1996
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Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 13:41:06 -0500
From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
Message-Id: <9603051841.AA12513@ivan.gallium.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re:  Volumetric eff.
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> The $80.00 code utilizes an empirical equation, similar (or exactly) to:

> VE = 5600 * ((Horsepower)/(RPM * CID)) * 100.0

> and will yield $80.00 results.

I'm going to have to disagree with you on this one Bruce. Engine Analyzer works
from the basic configuration of an engine (bore, stroke, valve size, nubmer of
valves, CR, intake runner flow coefficient, carb or TB flow rating, etc.)
and computes the VE. From the VE (and other parameters) it calculates torque
and then using RPM calculates HP.

It's fairly flexable in that it allows you to change things like intake and
exhaust runner lengths to see the effects that tuning will have. The people
who wrote Engine Analyzer claim it to be within +/- 15% of real world (i.e.,
dyno) results.

Mike
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 21:19:24 1996
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Has anyone used DYNOMATION??

I'd like to BUY it, but cannot get anyone to contact me ...

I even emailed the people from the DYNOMATION Home Page .. 

ARRGH!

Any opinions of this software??

Jim


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 21:20:18 1996
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To: diy_efi
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I just checked out a GM MAP sensor for my B&S system, and from a starting
point of nothing, this is what I found out with a voltmeter and power 
supply.

     |-----------------|
     |      -----      |
     |-----(o o o)-----|
            -----
            1 2 3

		1 - Ground
    		2 - Output
		3 - V+ (+5VDC)

Output appears linear from 0V at full vacuum to +5VDC at 1Atm.  I suspect
the internals are a Motorola MPX51xx transducer or similar.  It works, so
I'm not going to disembowel it.  The price was right (free) came off a 
mid-80's Olds midsize 4-banger.

Cliff Ducharme

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 21:37:42 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: Brad Martin <btm@usa.nai.net>
Subject: Re: Subaru EFI
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At 11:00 AM 3/5/96 -0700, you wrote:
>At 11:00 AM 3/5/96 GMT, you wrote:
>>At 08:52 AM 3/5/96 +0000, you wrote:
>>>I'm trying to hack my way into the control box for a Subaru SVX 
>>>engine made by JECS. The EPROM is a Fujitsu 27C1028 which I couldn't 
>>>find in my meager databook collection. I tried reading the EPROM as a 
>>>27C1024, but just got garbage. I'm assuming the -28 is a protected 
>>>device. Any suggestions?
>
>
>  Yeah, I emailed Fujitsu's tech support ...
Do you still have the address you used?
I'd be interested fi you could foward it!

Thanks-
Brad


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 22:09:23 1996
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Subject: Re: MAP Sensor
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 17:00:29 -0500 (EST)
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> 
> I just checked out a GM MAP sensor for my B&S system, and from a starting
> point of nothing, this is what I found out with a voltmeter and power 
> supply.
> 
>      |-----------------|
>      |      -----      |
>      |-----(o o o)-----|
>             -----
>             1 2 3
> 
> 		1 - Ground
>     		2 - Output
> 		3 - V+ (+5VDC)
> 
> Output appears linear from 0V at full vacuum to +5VDC at 1Atm.  I suspect
> the internals are a Motorola MPX51xx transducer or similar.  It works, so
> I'm not going to disembowel it.  The price was right (free) came off a 
> mid-80's Olds midsize 4-banger.
> 
> Cliff Ducharme
> 
They're made by Delco Electronics.

Matt Sale


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 23:02:03 1996
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From: Bruce Bowling <bowling@cebaf.gov>
Subject: Re:  Volumetric eff.
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 17:45:05 EST
In-Reply-To: <9603051841.AA12513@ivan.gallium.com>; from "Michael F. Sargent" at Mar 05, 96 1:41 pm
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~ 
~ I'm going to have to disagree with you on this one Bruce. Engine Analyzer works
~ from the basic configuration of an engine (bore, stroke, valve size, nubmer of
~ valves, CR, intake runner flow coefficient, carb or TB flow rating, etc.)
~ and computes the VE. From the VE (and other parameters) it calculates torque
~ and then using RPM calculates HP.
~ 
~ It's fairly flexable in that it allows you to change things like intake and
~ exhaust runner lengths to see the effects that tuning will have. The people
~ who wrote Engine Analyzer claim it to be within +/- 15% of real world (i.e.,
~ dyno) results.
~ 
~ Mike
~ +--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
~ | Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
~ | Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
~ +--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
~ 
~ 
I believe in the cost/performance ratio method of rating codes, with the ratio
being a constant.

Unless Engine Analyzer is a true airflow solver (with user-defined mesh points, etc)
and the user enters info like intake runner cross-section, inertial supercharge
index, etc, it is dealing with approximations to the real modelled system.  What are these
approximations?  Where did these approximations come from and are they generic
enough for any system modelled?  Does the writers of Engine Analyzer provide
the complete numerical algorithm?  Do they promise the +/- 15% correlation with
the real world with any engine?

A true airflow simulation would take many, many minutes to execute on a generic '386
PC (or hours).  From this fact alone I conclude that Engine Analyzer is empirical
in operation.  If it works for a particular setup, then everything is fine.
If someone held a gun to my head threatening to pull the trigger if Engine Analyzer
did not match their particular hunk, then there is a good chance I'll end up
like Kurt Cobain.

But for an $80.00 program, it out-performs something costing say $50.00.
(and since my WWW page calculations are free, they are totally untrustworthy!).

- Bruce

--
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------
               Bruce A. Bowling
  Staff Scientist - Instrumentation and Controls
 The Continuous Electron Beam Accelerator Facility
    12000 Jefferson Ave - Newport News, VA 23602
                 (804) 249-7240
                bowling@cebaf.gov  
        http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar  5 23:03:57 1996
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 1996 09:55:53 +1000
To: DIY_EFI
From: Michael Fawke <fawkacs@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: MC3334 question
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

Pardon my ignorance, but I am a computer programmer and my knowlege of
analogue is _very_ limited....

On the MC3334, when used to drive an MJ10012 (?) with current sense, the
circuit diagram I have shows a .027 Ohm resistor bewteen ground and the 
MJ10012, with the sense taken from the MJ10012 side. In Tim Drury's article
on Distributorless ignition, he gives a circuit for the ignitor which does
not have this resistor. I am assuming the resistance is necessary for the
current sense to work, - so what can be used to create this resistance, or
can it really be discarded (as per Tim Drury's design)?

Also, how do you pick a coil to work with this design? Most coils I have
seen (single output) are sold with no info on resistance. Can the M3334 (when
used with current sense) use _any_ coil? I am currently using a coil with 
a ballast resistor and would prefer not to fork out another $50 Australian
for another coil :)

Thanks in advance.

PS. Angle sensing using optical light/dark coding on a wheel is _really_
dark ages stuff. Missed pulse/Long pulse detection is much better.
At least if the sensor fails the whole system stops - what do you think
would happen with a binary encoded wheel? Ugh! - makes me shudder!

Michael Fawke
fawkacs@ozemail.com.au


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 01:02:31 1996
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From: Andrew Dalgleish <andrewd@axonet.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi'" <diy_efi>
Subject: inductive vs optical
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 96 11:43:00 S
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On Wednesday, 6 March 1996 9:55, owner-diy_efi-outgoing wrote:
[snip]

>
> PS. Angle sensing using optical light/dark coding on a wheel is   
_really_
> dark ages stuff. Missed pulse/Long pulse detection is much better.
> At least if the sensor fails the whole system stops - what do you think
> would happen with a binary encoded wheel? Ugh! - makes me shudder!
>
> Michael Fawke
> fawkacs@ozemail.com.au
>
>

Make sure you're not confusing hardware probems with system design.

Sensor problems give you the same problems regardless of sensor type
(inductive, optical, ESP).
If a sensor isn't working, you don't know what's happening. Period.

Assuming your sensors are ok, the basic idea is to get the most
information from the minimum number of sensors (hence $$$)

Missing/short/long pulse detection needs either time or frequency based
detection. (Any other's I've missed?)

Car engines run over a relatively wide rpm range, so time-based detection   

is out.

Frequency based detection is usually done by a phase or frequency locked   
loop,
either analog or digital.

Either way, you still have a fairly complex filter to design to ensure
under/over-shoot doesn't cause false (extra or missing) triggering.

Multiple sensors (inductive or optical) remove the need for any loop   
filter
design. You do have to allow for sensor failure, and yes, you now have   
more
sensors which could fail.

If you use one sensor for angle and one for index, the detection is   
fairly
simple. Assuming 1 per (cam) degree, 1 for index, if I get more than 720
degrees without an index, or less than 720 on the next index there is a   
problem.

If you use two sensors for angle (eg quadrature encoding), you can test   
for
either of these failing as well. Ok, so if the engine rocks backwards   
when
you switch it off will confuse this, but you don't care at this point.
I'd prefer to have the sensor checking than to know how far my engine   
rocks
back :-)

As others have pointed out if you encode your cylinder number in binary
you are asking for trouble, Gray coding is far less error-prone.

I think it is easier to use a state machine which is advanced once per   
cylinder.
This can come from an extra sensor, or (IMHO preferably) from the angle   
divided down.
Again, check the cylinder count is correct every time you receive an   
index pulse.

Generally, I'd say an inductive sensor is more reliable than an optical   
sensor.
The sensor itself isn't affect by voltage spikes as much as a LED,   
although the
supporting analogue circuitry may be.

Unfortunately, it's not easy to design an inductive pickup which will   
work from
cranking speed through to red-line. An A14 goes from 200 to 10,000 rpm.
(The push-rods start to flex at around 11,000 rpm.) If you add   
missing/short/long
pulses to the design requirements, it gets harder.

I can buy off-the-shelf optical sensors which provide a TTL signal I can   
plug
into a computer. I can print my own encoding wheel and reduce it   
photographically.
(The laser in a printer may be accurate to X DPI, but check the size of   
your toner
granules.)

Development time is the single most expensive part of any design.
Hence three optical sensors (1 for index plus 2 for quadrature angle), a   
printed
wheel, an EPLD, about 2 hours of programming, and I'm done.

Incidentally at my last place of employment we used a proximity sensor   
which was
placed *inside* the magnetic field of a 500MW power station generator to   
measure the
stator to rotor gap for pole shift, thermal movement, etc.
The sensor cost around US$5,000. Anyone want to buy one of these for   
their car?
Regards,
Andrew Dalgleish
Axon Research, Pty Ltd
6 Wallace Ave,
Toorak, VIC
3142
AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-3-9826-5538
Fax +61-3-9824-0083

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 04:13:20 1996
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r"John DeArmond fanclub #13

Is anyone interested in the whereabouts of big John?  

Do the words no computers, american dream, Cleveland, TN, pork BarBQ and
Chitlin' mean anything?


TurboDave
Less Maintenance, More Performance.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 04:13:23 1996
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Date: Mon, 04 Mar 96 21:15:12 EST
From: mfield@calypso.com (Mark Field)
To: diy_efi
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On Sun, 03 Mar 1996 19:35:20 -0800 you wrote:

>At 07:40 PM 3/3/96, you wrote:
>>Maybe I've got the wrong end of the stick on this one, but it
>>appears to me that this idea uses a pump of some kind to produce a
>>tank of compressed air under low-load conditions. This tank of
>>compressed air is then used when needed, to drive a compressor to
>>produce, yes you've guessed it, compressed air. Once you've got
>>your tank of compressed air, why not regulate it and blow it
>>straight though your throttle body and cut out all those mechanical
>>losses inherrant in the second pump/compressor ? 
>>
>>                        Brian Warburton 
>>
>>>
>>>>Check this out, an air motor connected to a centrifugal blower. Air tools
>>>frequently turn at very high speeds. A mid size air motor might be the
>>>ticket. Imagine a small air tank and an electric or engine driven pump.
>>>During low load, the pump tanks the air under high pressure. When boost is
>>>needed, high flow solenoids open up and all hell breaks lose. Almost no
>>>parasitic losses and instant gratification! This should be possible with off
>>>the shelf components. As always, EFI would be needed to make the system
>>>really work. 
>>>>
>>> GMD
>>
>>
>I think you'll find that an air motor used to  spin up a centrifugal
>compressor would require air at substantial pressure (i.e. >100 psi).   A
>centrifugal turbine wouldn't have a prayer of delivering air at that
>pressure.  You'd need the equivilent of an electric transfomer to convert
>low-pressure/high-volume air to the high-pressure/low-volume air required by
>the air motor.....or else compress the air directly using a (gasp!)
>belt-driven vane or piston compressor.  The beauty of the turbocharger is
>that both the input and output sections are of similar "impedance" and no
>transformation is required.  
>
>                                                                            
>          Bill
>
>
>
Just my thought's on the subject of turbo lag.

First let me say that my car has a turbo ( Garret/ Air-Research E-5A
?). My car is a '86 Mustang SVO with the 2.3 liter engine. From what
I've read, and the people I've talked to, the snail (exhaust housing)
is the biggest culpret for turbo lag.

A small inlet increases the exhaust velocity allowing a faster spool
time. The down side of this is an increase in back pressure as the
engine RPM increases. A large inlet on the turbine side keeps the
exhaust gas velocity low, but allows the engine to breath better at
top end. A vicious circle it is.

I've also seen posts about the variable vane exhaust housing that was
available several years ago. From what I've read, and talking to some
of my racing buddies, these didn't pan out as the vanes either warped
from the extreme heat or failed to operate once the carbon deposits
started to develope. A good idea, but not enough demand to warrant
working out the bugs.

Here's my thoughts on how to reduce turbo lag.    Put the  butterfly
valve on the suction side of the compressor. If's there is little to
no air in the compressor( my car pulls 23 inches of vacuum at idle ),
it would take longer to stall the turbine. The down side to this, is
the fact that the intake track has to be filled and repressured before
boost can take place. But, with the turbine allready spinning from the
lack of backpressure in the inlet housing, you would think that the
turbo would spool up significantly faster than having to pedal uphill
against a manifold full of air.

I plan on trying this sometime in the near future when I can afford a
new set of injectors. Mine currently have a severe case of the cracks
from old age, and $600.00 doesn't come cheap.

Anyhow, just my thoughts.

Mark Field
mfield@mail.calypso.com
***** Signature Cloak Engaged to conserve bandwidth******

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 04:31:52 1996
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From: arthurok@ix.netcom.com (ARTHUR OKUN )
Subject: Re: Subaru EFI
To: diy_efi
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if its a 28 pin package try reading it as a 27c128
thats the size gm uses in their newer memcal packs  128kbytes   ofcode 
seems awfuly large for a little subaru ecm .

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 05:08:54 1996
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To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 21:47:36 MDT
From: dn <dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
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Bohdan Bodnar wrote:

> GM and Chrysler MAP sensors have an output which is roughly between 0.1 and
> 4.9 volts. 

This is to allow for mfg. tolerances to gurantee that any given unit will
be within the 0-5V input range of the a/d converter.  The zero offset also
provides a little headroom for noise immunity.

> At atmospheric pressure, a GM or Chrysler MAP sensor designed for a self 
> aspirated engine will output around 4.9 volts whereas a sensor designed
> for a supercharged engine will output around 2.5 volts.  

This makes sense if you think in terms of absolute pressure instead of vacuum.
A 0 - 30 PSIA sensor would read 1/2 scale at 1 Atm.  Less than this is vacuum
more than this is boost.  A normally aspirated engine would only require the 
0 - 14.7 PSIA half of this range.

> Ford's MAP sensors (and BMAP sensors) output a variable frequency.  At 
> atmospheric pressure, the frequency will be between 155 and 159 Hz.
> About a year ago I posted a table which gave output frequency vs. pressure 
> for a Ford MAP sensor.  

Would you kindly email this to me, if you still have it kicking around? 
Actually, post it to DIY_EFI, there are probably more people who would like
to see it.

regards
dn



--
---------------------------------------------------------------------
 Darrell A. Norquay              Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca     
 Datalog Technology Inc.         Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell
 Calgary, Alberta, Canada        Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220            
                                 Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872            
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    __/    "Absolutum Obsoletum" - If it works, it's obsolete    
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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 05:22:29 1996
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 1996 16:16:56 +1000
To: diy_efi
From: Michael Fawke <fawkacs@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Re: inductive vs optical
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At 11:43 AM 6/3/1996 S, Andrew wrote:

>Assuming your sensors are ok, the basic idea is to get the most
>information from the minimum number of sensors (hence $$$)
>Missing/short/long pulse detection needs either time or frequency based
>detection. (Any other's I've missed?)
>Car engines run over a relatively wide rpm range, so time-based detection   
>is out.
>Frequency based detection is usually done by a phase or frequency locked   
>loop,
>either analog or digital.
>Either way, you still have a fairly complex filter to design to ensure
>under/over-shoot doesn't cause false (extra or missing) triggering.

I agree on the filtering part, but unless you are running an analogue 
controller there should be no problem with accurate time control when the
input from the sensor in used to generate an interrupt to a processor. I
must admit that the long-pulse system would be a real pain (I know the car
manufacturers use it, but I have no idea how), but a missing or extra pulse
is easy from a programming point of view..... as long as the CPU speed is
adequate.


Michael Fawke
fawkacs@ozemail.com.au


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 06:56:37 1996
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From: sandy <sandyg@visix.com>
Subject: Re: MC3334 question
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At 09:55 AM 3/6/96 +1000, you wrote:
>Pardon my ignorance, but I am a computer programmer and my knowlege of
>analogue is _very_ limited....
>
>On the MC3334, when used to drive an MJ10012 (?) with current sense, the
>circuit diagram I have shows a .027 Ohm resistor bewteen ground and the 
>MJ10012, with the sense taken from the MJ10012 side. In Tim Drury's article
>on Distributorless ignition, he gives a circuit for the ignitor which does
>not have this resistor. I am assuming the resistance is necessary for the
>current sense to work, - so what can be used to create this resistance, or
>can it really be discarded (as per Tim Drury's design)?
>
I don't have the circuit handy (i'm on the road), but I thought that it had
the sense resistor. The value on the moto data sheet is .075Ohms I think.
Their is also a variable resistor from that to form a simple divider network
that is used to adjust the current that the limiting starts at. The thing
that I remeber from Tim's stuff is that it was the exact same circuit as the
moto data sheet. 


>Also, how do you pick a coil to work with this design? Most coils I have
>seen (single output) are sold with no info on resistance. Can the M3334 (when
>used with current sense) use _any_ coil? I am currently using a coil with 
>a ballast resistor and would prefer not to fork out another $50 Australian
>for another coil :)

The above mentioned setting of the variable resistor will set the maximum
current that the coil is driven to.

Sandy
**********************************
Sandy Ganz        sandyg@visix.com
Visix Software Inc. 
**********************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 08:03:16 1996
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From: arthurok@ix.netcom.com (ARTHUR OKUN )
Subject: Re: Turbo Lag
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

who needs air  just inject nitrous oxide;maybe thats the answear 
electronicaly regulated injection just enough to compensate for turbo 
lag?


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 08:35:18 1996
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Subject: Re: inductive vs optical
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 23:21:14 MDT
From: dn <dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
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> Andrew Dalgleish wrote:

> Car engines run over a relatively wide rpm range, so time-based detection   
> is out.

Why? As long as your timing resolution is high enough, and you don't rely
on the micro for doing the quadrature or handling a zillion interrupts,
a micro should be able to handle up to 7 or 8000 RPM easily.  8000 RPM is 
only about 1Khz.

> Generally, I'd say an inductive sensor is more reliable than an optical   
> sensor.  The sensor itself isn't affect by voltage spikes as much as a LED,   
> although the supporting analogue circuitry may be.  

An inductive sensor has the shortcoming of having much less resoulution.
It would be extremely difficult to build an inductive pickup with a couple 
of hundred teeth small enough to fit in a distributor, whereas it's no 
problem with an optical encoder...

> I can buy off-the-shelf optical sensors which provide a TTL signal I can   
> plug into a computer. I can print my own encoding wheel and reduce it   
> photographically.  Development time is the single most expensive part of 
> any design.  Hence three optical sensors (1 for index plus 2 for 
> quadrature angle), a printed wheel, an EPLD, about 2 hours of programming, 
> and I'm done.

Check out HP (Hewlett Packard).  They make an optical sensor setup that you
can buy different resolution disks for, or make your own.  They are the HEDS
5000, 6000, and 9000 series.  They even make one with 360 cpr, and are very 
small in size.  Coupled with an HCTL2000/2016 quadrature decoder chip, 
(X4 resolution, built in 12/16 bit counter w/direction, 8 bit parallel 
interface) you have an instant position sensing system with no programming 
or fabricating at all.

regards
dn

--
---------------------------------------------------------------------
 Darrell A. Norquay              Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca     
 Datalog Technology Inc.         Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell
 Calgary, Alberta, Canada        Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220            
                                 Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872            
    @ +                                                                
     <                                                         
    __/    "Absolutum Obsoletum" - If it works, it's obsolete    
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To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 22:49:57 MDT
From: dn <dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
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> Michael Fawke wrote:

> Pardon my ignorance, but I am a computer programmer and my knowlege of
> analogue is _very_ limited....

Ya, I feel sorry for you electrically challenged individuals... 
(just kidding! 8-)

> On the MC3334, when used to drive an MJ10012 (?) with current sense, the
> circuit diagram I have shows a .027 Ohm resistor bewteen ground and the 
> MJ10012, with the sense taken from the MJ10012 side. In Tim Drury's article
> on Distributorless ignition, he gives a circuit for the ignitor which does
> not have this resistor. I am assuming the resistance is necessary for the
> current sense to work, - so what can be used to create this resistance, or
> can it really be discarded (as per Tim Drury's design)?

After a little data book browsing,  I see MC3334 has an overcurrent limit
threshold of minimum 120 mV, typical 160 mV, maximum 190 mV.  This means 
that at the current level you want to limit at, the voltage across the
current sense resistor has to rise to around 160 mV to trip the current 
limiter circuit.

In the data book, they show a circuit with a 0.075 ohm resistor, and a further
adjustable voltage divider into pin 8 (the current limit input).  This circuit
is setup to limit at 5.5 A.  If you multiply 5.5 by .075 ohm, you get 412 mV 
across the resistor Rs.  This is divided further by a resistive divider 
circuit, comprised of RD1 and RD2.  They give a formula in the data sheet for 
calculating RD1 and RD2 for the desired current limit.  Tim Drury may not 
have used the current limit, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you use a 
coil which requires a separate ballast resistor.  The different value for Rs
in your circuit is 0.027 ohms, which would give a current limit of about 6 A.
Your circuit possibly doesn't use the voltage divider shown in my data sheet, 
which is added to make the current limit adjustable.  

As far as finding a resistor for Rs, low value power resistors are kind of 
scarce.  You could consider paralleling several smaller resistors to get the 
required value.  Let's see, this resistor would dissipate about 2.5 W @
6 A (I^2*R).  You could parallel 4 X .1 ohm, 1W resistors (or 10 X .27 ohm
.5W) to give .025 ohm @ 4W (.027 ohm @ 5W), more than sufficient for the task.

> Also, how do you pick a coil to work with this design? Most coils I have
> seen (single output) are sold with no info on resistance. Can the M3334 (when
> used with current sense) use _any_ coil? I am currently using a coil with 
> a ballast resistor and would prefer not to fork out another $50 Australian
> for another coil :)

Any coil will work, the circuit works by limiting the maximum current into
the coil (which keeps it from heating up at low RPM's), which also eliminates
the need for the ballast resistor.  The ballast resistor ALSO limits current 
at HIGH RPM's, though, which decreases ignition energy and kindof defeats the 
purpose... If you decide NOT to use the current limit in the MC3334, then you 
WOULD need the ballast resistor.  To disable the current limit, tie pin 8 
to ground.

regards,
dn







--
---------------------------------------------------------------------
 Darrell A. Norquay              Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca     
 Datalog Technology Inc.         Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell
 Calgary, Alberta, Canada        Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220            
                                 Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872            
    @ +                                                                
     <                                                         
    __/    "Absolutum Obsoletum" - If it works, it's obsolete    
 --------------------------------------------------------------------


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From: "SANDY" <SWELTAN@physio.uct.ac.za>
To: diy_efi
Date:          Wed, 6 Mar 1996 11:03:11 UTC-2
Subject:       Re: Fuel Maps
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On 4 March, Sean wrote:

> My main question here is:
> How does everyone out there tune the fuel (and ignition) maps on their 
> system?
> 

I would also be interested in the answer to that question. Has anyone 
used on-board dynos like the DynoLab or Schrick versions and if so, 
how succesful was it? Or do you run out of road before you finish one 
RPM/load combination?

Sandy 



======================================================================
DR. S.M. WELTAN
DEPT OF PHYSIOLOGY                       Tel. No: (021) 406-6507
UNIVERSITY OF CAPE TOWN                  Fax No:  (021) 47-7669
MEDICAL SCHOOL
SOUTH AFRICA                             

e-mail:sweltan@physio.uct.ac.za
======================================================================

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At 01:42 AM 6/3/1996 -0500, Sandy wrote:

>At 09:55 AM 3/6/96 +1000, you wrote:
>>Pardon my ignorance, but I am a computer programmer and my knowlege of
>>analogue is _very_ limited....
>>
>>On the MC3334, when used to drive an MJ10012 (?) with current sense, the
>>circuit diagram I have shows a .027 Ohm resistor bewteen ground and the 
>>MJ10012, with the sense taken from the MJ10012 side. In Tim Drury's article
>>on Distributorless ignition, he gives a circuit for the ignitor which does
>>not have this resistor. I am assuming the resistance is necessary for the
>>current sense to work, - so what can be used to create this resistance, or
>>can it really be discarded (as per Tim Drury's design)?
>>
>I don't have the circuit handy (i'm on the road), but I thought that it had
>the sense resistor. The value on the moto data sheet is .075Ohms I think.
>Their is also a variable resistor from that to form a simple divider network
>that is used to adjust the current that the limiting starts at. The thing
>that I remeber from Tim's stuff is that it was the exact same circuit as the
>moto data sheet. 
>

Hmmm - nope, the .075 ohm resistor is missing from Tim's circuit (the Net
version anyway). What resistor do you use here? Obviously this is not 
something that you buy off the shelf.... Maybe several pieces of resistance
wire to carry the current?
 
Michael Fawke
fawkacs@ozemail.com.au


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At 09:55 AM 6/03/96 +1000, you wrote:
>Pardon my ignorance, but I am a computer programmer and my knowlege of
>analogue is _very_ limited....
>
>On the MC3334, when used to drive an MJ10012 (?) with current sense, the
>circuit diagram I have shows a .027 Ohm resistor bewteen ground and the 
>MJ10012, with the sense taken from the MJ10012 side. In Tim Drury's article
>on Distributorless ignition, he gives a circuit for the ignitor which does
>not have this resistor. I am assuming the resistance is necessary for the
>current sense to work, - so what can be used to create this resistance, or
>can it really be discarded (as per Tim Drury's design)?
>
>Also, how do you pick a coil to work with this design? Most coils I have
>seen (single output) are sold with no info on resistance. Can the M3334 (when
>used with current sense) use _any_ coil? I am currently using a coil with 
>a ballast resistor and would prefer not to fork out another $50 Australian
>for another coil :)
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>PS. Angle sensing using optical light/dark coding on a wheel is _really_
>dark ages stuff. Missed pulse/Long pulse detection is much better.
>At least if the sensor fails the whole system stops - what do you think
>would happen with a binary encoded wheel? Ugh! - makes me shudder!
>
>Michael Fawke
>fawkacs@ozemail.com.au
>
>

Mike,
          Most Nissan and Mitsubishi vehicles with engine management systems
use optical timing disks. (Have a look in a VL Commodore distributor). As
far as the coils go why not take your multimeter with you and measure the
damn things if you are not sure. This is DIY EFI after all.

                                regards,
                                                Mark Boxsell.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 13:18:26 1996
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 08:07:54 +0500
From: ehernan3@ford.com (Edward Hernandez (R))
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re:  Volumetric eff.
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"Unless Engine Analyzer is a true airflow solver (with user-defined 
mesh points, etc) and the user enters info like intake runner 
cross-section, inertial supercharge index, etc, it is dealing with 
approximations"

I use a true airflow solver on the job. It's called MANDY, which 
stands for MANifold DYnamics, and is mentioned in papers submitted to 
various engineering societies and journals(most recently in SAE 
automotive Engineering last month).It's proprietary, but very
accurate. Our mesh isn't user-defined, it's automatically generated. 
We do input runner lengths and cross-sectional areas(among other 
things), but there is no 'interial supercharge index', a term we've 
never heard of. If you mean 'inertial charging', true solvers will 
calculate it; it's an output, not an input. In spite of it's accuracy,
 we'll be the first to admit that it's still an approximation.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 13:50:56 1996
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>Bohdan Bodnar wrote:
>
>> GM and Chrysler MAP sensors have an output which is roughly between 0.1 and
>> 4.9 volts. 
>
>This is to allow for mfg. tolerances to gurantee that any given unit will
>be within the 0-5V input range of the a/d converter.  The zero offset also
>provides a little headroom for noise immunity.

Actually, the voltage ranges are to allow the computer to test to see whether
(1) the output's shorted to ground or (2) whether the output's open (i.e.,
voltage higher than about 4.9 volts).  Noise immunity is achieved by low-pass
filtering the signal.

>> Ford's MAP sensors (and BMAP sensors) output a variable frequency.  At 
>> atmospheric pressure, the frequency will be between 155 and 159 Hz.
>> About a year ago I posted a table which gave output frequency vs. pressure 
>> for a Ford MAP sensor.  
>
>Would you kindly email this to me, if you still have it kicking around? 
>Actually, post it to DIY_EFI, there are probably more people who would like
>to see it.
>
>regards
>dn

I don't have it readily available.  Time permitting, I'll dig it up (it's from
some Ford training material) and post it early next week.

Cordially,

Bohdan Bodnar


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From: Byron Clemens <BCLEMEN@CMS.CC.WAYNE.EDU>
Subject:      VE
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   According to the designer of Engine Analyzer the VE that is output
from their program is calculated from many of the various inputs to
the program and some estimates. If someone has what they feel is
accurate real world data(VE) for a particular engine and they wish to
send me the engine data required by EA I will run it through EAv2.5
and post the comparative VE numbers.

BYRON CLEMENS                     BITNET:   BCLEMEN@WAYNEST1.BITNET
HUMAN RESOURCES APP SPEC I        INTERNET: BCLEMEN@CMS.CC.WAYNE.EDU
100 ANTOINETTE, ASB #1, RM 156.1  PHONE:    (313) 577-2059
Detroit, MI 48202                 FAX:      (313) 577-8767

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 14:53:41 1996
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Subject: Re: inductive vs optical
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> Missing/short/long pulse detection needs either time or frequency based
> detection. (Any other's I've missed?)

Phase. But really all three are from the same general concepts.

> Car engines run over a relatively wide rpm range, so time-based detection   
> is out.

Incorrect. You need an adaptive system is all (measures changes in the
AVERAGE rate or average pulse length, not absolute sensing). The amount of
extra stuff to implement this is minimal (564 or a '4040 would probably be
overkill).

> Frequency based detection is usually done by a phase or frequency locked   
> loop, either analog or digital.
> 
> Either way, you still have a fairly complex filter to design to ensure
> under/over-shoot doesn't cause false (extra or missing) triggering.

Excuse me? You run a single active filter loop giving you a second order
response (practically infinite shaping possibilities for this case). Takes
an op amp and a pair of resistors and capacitors. And it's not even text
book..the PLL documentation I have is literally a case of "plug in the
numbers" design. For those who want all digital, one uses a lag/lead type
phase detector with a down/up input onto the register which stores the
modulus on a count to N (or divide by N) register.

> Multiple sensors (inductive or optical) remove the need for any loop   
> filter
> design. You do have to allow for sensor failure, and yes, you now have   
> more sensors which could fail.

Sensor sets cost about $3. PLL's cost about $2-$5 (depends on whether or not
it's all digital). Pretty much a flip of the coin.

> If you use two sensors for angle (eg quadrature encoding), you can test for
> either of these failing as well. Ok, so if the engine rocks backwards when
> you switch it off will confuse this, but you don't care at this point.
> I'd prefer to have the sensor checking than to know how far my engine   
> rocks back :-)

Another advantage of quadrature sensors is you are not entirely SOL if one
goes out because it just cuts your resolution in half and negates the
possibility of reverse direction sensing.

> Generally, I'd say an inductive sensor is more reliable than an optical   
> sensor.
> The sensor itself isn't affect by voltage spikes as much as a LED,   
> although the
> supporting analogue circuitry may be.

Inductive sensors require more signal conditioning and they should be fed by
alternating current to prevent problems in residual fields.

> Development time is the single most expensive part of any design.
> Hence three optical sensors (1 for index plus 2 for quadrature angle), a   
> printed
> wheel, an EPLD, about 2 hours of programming, and I'm done.

Not in the case of DIY because more development time is GOOD. Remember that
DIY's do not account for time so much as the thrill of designing and getting
it working. It's not a "get it out the door" problem.

I may get flamed with disagreement but "DIY" pretty much implies hobbyist.

BTW..how in the world do you get hold of cheap FPGA/EPLD type programmers
and the associated compilers? Unless it's a PAL or older GAL's, it seems that
the manufacturers want on the order of $0.5-10K for the tools.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 15:34:16 1996
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From: WERNER_HAUSSMANN@HP-Loveland-om2.om.hp.com
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Subject: Re: L-jetronic
To: james@brc.ubc.ca, DIY_EFI
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Hi James

There are several books that give details about the Bosch systems.  I 
suggest you get the one by Charles 0. Probst, Bosch Fuel Injection & Engine 
Management.

Also find someone who has a copy of the British Car magazine, June & August 
'95.It talks a little about the minimum equipment needed.

I suggest as minimum a fuel pressure gauge to about 60psi for port 
injection with electric injectors, a voltmeter, and a CO meter.


I still don't seem to be on the DIY_EFI distribution, can you tell me if 
there have been any responses to my original request for information on a 
Bosch vacuum switch?


Werner





______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: L-jetronic
Author:  Non-HP-james (james@brc.ubc.ca) at HP-ColSprings,mimegw2
Date:    3/5/96 6:19 PM




Thanks Werner and welcome to the list !!

I usually reply direct instead of to the list (saves time sifting throught 
the list looking for people who have replied to you).  Wow, I'm impressed 
with 
your conversion, how did you know it would work???  Similar engine size?

I've got the Jeff Hartman book, I agree it's fantastic.

I'd be really interested in hearing the story behind this job, your 
troubles and triumphs etc.  I'd like to do something like this some day 
so I'm trying to learn from other peoples experiences.

What equipment do you have for EFI that you can't live without??
I'm looking at fuel pressure guages and am having trouble deciding which 
one to get.  Any advice???

One more thing, can you get me the ISBN number for the Bosch FI book?? Is 
this the one by Adler ??  Sounds like a good read.

thanks again

james

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 15:50:13 1996
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>> My main question here is:
>> How does everyone out there tune the fuel (and ignition) maps on their 
>> system?
get the best O2 or other air fuel meter you can afford or borrow
(an EGT-exhaust gas temp meter is also handy)
then, after you get some baseline programming  done in the driveway,
go drive around. Data logging will make things much easier, esp when speeds
climb and or traffic is a problem. the faster the car the harder it is to
top end due
 to road and traffic conditions.

as for the ign, I try to start with a curve similar to factory(if I have it)
and then tweek it with the aid of the EGT and  knock sensor

Fred


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 15:50:32 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: Fred Miranda <fcmefi@fishnet.net>
Subject: Re: MC3334 question
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could it be, Tim used circuit resistances instead of an actual resistor?
I did some coil testing 2 weeks ago in which I scoped the voltage drop
across a clip lead leading to the driver ground.

> You could consider paralleling several smaller resistors to get the 
>required value.  Let's see, this resistor would dissipate about 2.5 W @
>6 A (I^2*R).  You could parallel 4 X .1 ohm, 1W resistors (or 10 X .27 ohm
>.5W) to give .025 ohm @ 4W (.027 ohm @ 5W), more than sufficient for the task.

If you have good dwell control, the only time you'll approach these dissipation
figures is at very high rpm when the duty cycle is highest.

one last thing. does anyone know where to get the MC3334 (I could use 10-12)

Fred


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 16:25:40 1996
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 10:49:10 -0500
From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
Message-Id: <9603061549.AA13771@ivan.gallium.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Turbo Lag
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> Here's my thoughts on how to reduce turbo lag.    Put the  butterfly
> valve on the suction side of the compressor. If's there is little to

I had a turbo Capri 2.3 with a carb upstream from the turbo. Lag was still
a problem. Of course with that car, everything was a problem.

Mike
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 16:39:40 1996
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 10:42:12 -0500
From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
Message-Id: <9603061542.AA13755@ivan.gallium.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re:  Volumetric eff.
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> A true airflow simulation would take many, many minutes to execute on a
> generic '386 PC (or hours).  From this fact alone I conclude that Engine
> Analyzer is empirical in operation.

On my old 486-66 it took perhaps 10 seconds to calculate, and that's only
10 points. You specify the start RPM, and the RPM step, and it calculates
for those points until it has done 10 points. It's not my favourite way to
specify this sort of thing, but in the end it solves the problems.

As for Engine Analyzers accuracy, say hello to Courtney when you get home
tonight. :-)

I'll make a run and post the output here so people can see what EA outputs.
It won't be until Friday, because I'm out of town tommorow.

Mike
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 18:20:58 1996
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 1996 11:11:21 -0700
To: diy_efi
From: Land Shark <lndshrk@xmission.com>
Subject: Info on MBM27C1028 EPROM for Subaru SVX
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 It's a 1M (64k x 16bit) EPROM with MULTIPLEXED A/D lines .. 

 The 28pin pkg has the following pinout ...

 1      Vpp
 2      n/c
 3      *OE
 4      *CE
 5      n/c
 6      AD0
 7      AD8
 8      AD1
 9      AD9
 10     AD2
 11     AD10
 12     AD3
 13     AD11
 14     GND
 15     AD4
 16     AD12
 17     AD5
 18     AD13
 19     AD6
 20     AD14
 21     AD7
 22     AD15
 23     A16
 24     n/c
 25     *ALE
 26     *BHE
 27     *PGM
 28     Vcc

 BTW, these EPROMS are NO LONGER PRODUCED :(

 Jim Conforti


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 18:21:01 1996
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 1996 10:04:07
From: Jeff Hansen <jhansen777@gnn.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: inductive vs optical
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I have been following the "Re: inductive vs optical" thread and quadrature keeps coming up. 
The _primary_ purpose for quadrature is to determine the direction of rotation. I'm pretty 
sure :-) that this is not important in this application. The _secondary_ purpose is to 
allow for a 4x multiplication of encoder resolution by using both edges of both sensors, 
this could be useful. I use encoders on just about every servo motor in every product that 
I have designed at work. I would not expect the 1000 line and 2500 line encoders that I 
use, to live very long under my hood. A 360 line encoder with an index pulse would be nice, 
but the only real improvement you will probably see would be simpler software. Don't you 
guys like software? 

[snip]
> This brings up an interesting point... Hewlett Packard makes a chip 
> specifically for reading optical encoders, which may work great with this 
> type of system.  Assuming you can get the 50% duty cycle waveforms as 
> mentioned above, (you could have some sort of sensitivity adjustment on
> the sensors so it picks up the tooth halfway up and down each ramp) the
> chip takes care of the *** QUADRATURE *** decoding and has a built in 16 bit counter

[snip]
> All you really need is the 2 *** QUADRATURE *** tracks, plus a single "index" marker
> which generates a pulse once per revolution.  In this manner, you have a sync
> pulse which tells you when you have gone one full turn, and simply reference
> everything to the sync pulse...

[snip]
> If you use two sensors for angle (eg *** QUADRATURE *** encoding), you can test for
> either of these failing as well. Ok, so if the engine rocks backwards when
> you switch it off will confuse this, but you don't care at this point.
> I'd prefer to have the sensor checking than to know how far my engine rocks
> back :-)
Andrew , I know you understand.

[snip]
> Why? As long as your timing resolution is high enough, and you don't rely
> on the micro for doing the *** QUADRATURE *** or handling a zillion interrupts,
> a micro should be able to handle up to 7 or 8000 RPM easily.  8000 RPM is 
> only about 1Khz.

Later -

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Jeff Hansen
Anaheim, California, USA
JHansen777@gnn.com
http://members.gnn.com/JHansen777/car/index.htm
Seven pounds of boost is a 'Good-Thing'
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 18:52:09 1996
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From: Bruce Bowling <bowling@cebaf.gov>
Subject: Re:  Volumetric eff.
To: diy_efi
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 1996 13:42:13 EST
In-Reply-To: <9603061542.AA13755@ivan.gallium.com>; from "Michael F. Sargent" at Mar 06, 96 10:42 am
X-Hpvue$Revision: 1.8 $
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~ As for Engine Analyzers accuracy, say hello to Courtney when you get home
~ tonight. :-)
~ 
Darn - I was hoping that EA's results was garbage, so I would
NOT have to go back home to Courtney.

- Bruce


--
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------
               Bruce A. Bowling
  Staff Scientist - Instrumentation and Controls
 The Continuous Electron Beam Accelerator Facility
    12000 Jefferson Ave - Newport News, VA 23602
                 (804) 249-7240
                bowling@cebaf.gov  
        http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 20:15:41 1996
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From: "David M Parrish" <dmp@bmesun1.MCG.EDU>
To: diy_efi
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 15:25:49 +0000
Subject: Re: Info on MBM27C1028 EPROM for Subaru SVX
Priority: normal
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> From:          Land Shark <lndshrk@xmission.com>

>  It's a 1M (64k x 16bit) EPROM with MULTIPLEXED A/D lines .. 

>  BTW, these EPROMS are NO LONGER PRODUCED :(

But thanks for the information, but -

Now you REALLY made my day...

Not only is it not standard, which means a custom reader/programmer 
and databooks that may not even be available anymore, but even if I 
were masochistic enough to reprogram the box, I can't get extra 
EPROMs for testing.


---
David Parrish
Bummed out. 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 22:02:21 1996
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 21:36:02 GMT
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From: "Jim Staff"  <staffj@freenet.msp.mn.us>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: inductive vs optical
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> Check out HP (Hewlett Packard).  They make an optical sensor setup that you
> can buy different resolution disks for, or make your own.  They are the HEDS
> 5000, 6000, and 9000 series.  They even make one with 360 cpr, and are very 
> small in size.  Coupled with an HCTL2000/2016 quadrature decoder chip, 
> (X4 resolution, built in 12/16 bit counter w/direction, 8 bit parallel 
> interface) you have an instant position sensing system with no programming 
> or fabricating at all.

Do you have information on the HED 1000? or know were I can get it. I recently 
aquired one for free and If I can use it that would save me $3.00..

Thanks..
    Jim Staff


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 22:39:15 1996
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 1996 15:21:48 -0700
To: diy_efi
From: Land Shark <lndshrk@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: Info on MBM27C1028 EPROM for Subaru SVX
Cc: dmp@bmesun1.MCG.EDU
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At 03:25 PM 3/6/96 +0000, you wrote:

>Not only is it not standard, which means a custom reader/programmer 
>and databooks that may not even be available anymore, but even if I 
>were masochistic enough to reprogram the box, I can't get extra 
>EPROMs for testing.

 How about you find your local FUJITSU seller .. I'll bet ya he has a burner
 to program these .. and MAYBE even a few blanks ...

 NEXT .. get the code read ... and disassembled ..

 Now, even if you CANT get any more .. you can always just make a little
 daughterboard on a header and use it to translate a regular 27C1024 into
 a multiplexed arrangement ...

 No biggie ... (this is where you EE types step in to help ;)

 Jim


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar  6 23:39:00 1996
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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 1996 10:19:13 +1000
To: diy_efi
From: Michael Fawke <fawkacs@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Re: MC3334 question
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>>Also, how do you pick a coil to work with this design? Most coils I have
>>seen (single output) are sold with no info on resistance. Can the M3334 (when
>>used with current sense) use _any_ coil? I am currently using a coil with 
>>a ballast resistor and would prefer not to fork out another $50 Australian
>>for another coil :)
>>
>As
>far as the coils go why not take your multimeter with you and measure the
>damn things if you are not sure. This is DIY EFI after all.
>
>                                regards,
>                                                Mark Boxsell.
>

Because I have never had much luck in getting a sales person to allow me to
open a sealed pack...... 
Michael Fawke
fawkacs@ozemail.com.au


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar  7 01:33:17 1996
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Date: Wed, 06 Mar 1996 20:19:52 -0500
To: diy_efi
From: pjwales@magicnet.net (Peter Wales)
Subject: Re: Info on MBM27C1028 EPROM for Subaru SVX
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I just might be able to help out here.

I have a gadget which can read 87256 devices which are latched 256 eproms,
I'll check and see if it can read 1024 devices. I also have a source of
87256's and at the worst we can hook 4 of them upo as a development module.

It'll be Friday before I can get to it though so be patient

Peter Wales                    pjwales@magicnet.net
President Superchips Inc
Chairman Superchips Ltd        "Timing is everything"
Superchips home page with all the answers http://www.superchips.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar  7 02:47:25 1996
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Subject: Re: inductive vs optical
To: diy_efi
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 96 19:19:10 MDT
From: dn <dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
In-Reply-To: <199603061812.NAA04235@mail-e2a-service.gnn.com>; from "Jeff Hansen" at Mar 6, 96 10:04 am
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Jeff Hansen writes

> I have been following the "Re: inductive vs optical" thread and quadrature 
> keeps coming up.  The _primary_ purpose for quadrature is to determine the 
> direction of rotation. I'm pretty sure :-) that this is not important in 
> this application. The _secondary_ purpose is to allow for a 4x 
> multiplication of encoder resolution by using both edges of both sensors, 
> this could be useful. 

You're right, direction is not an issue.  But it does make sense to use 
quadrature for the error checking and x4 aspects, plus quadrature encoders
are readily available.

> Don't you guys like software? 

Solder is my favorite programming language :)

regards
dn

PS - please set your editor to a more manageable line length - it's hard
to read your messages.  tnx


--
---------------------------------------------------------------------
 Darrell A. Norquay              Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca     
 Datalog Technology Inc.         Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell
 Calgary, Alberta, Canada        Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220            
                                 Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872            
    @ +                                                                
     <                                                         
    __/    "Absolutum Obsoletum" - If it works, it's obsolete    
 --------------------------------------------------------------------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar  7 03:16:59 1996
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Date: 	Wed, 6 Mar 1996 21:59:50 -0500
From: CHAN WEN YEN <chanwe@ecf.toronto.edu>
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AMD will courier free data books to anyone who calls their APPLICATIONS
HOTLINE. AMD's EPROM products data book (#17061B) may be of general 
interest. AMD also publishes , among other things, a cross reference 
guide. The number to call is (800) 222-9323 CANADA/USA, 0590-8621 FRANCE, 
0130-813875 GERMANY.

Wenyen Chan  chanwe@ecf.utoronto.ca

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar  7 05:12:20 1996
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From: MTaylorfi@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 23:59:31 -0500
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Info on MBM27C1028 EPROM for Subaru SVX
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In a message dated 96-03-06 21:18:01 EST, you write:

>87256's and at the worst we can hook 4 of them upo as a development module.
>
>        



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar  7 05:14:23 1996
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 05:07:11 GMT
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From: "Jim Staff"  <staffj@freenet.msp.mn.us>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Encoder
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> Looks like a metal case TO-5 transistor with 8 leads and a lens on the end?
> 
> If so, it's basically a reflective sensor with LED and photodetector on the
> same die.  I'ts focussed to a spot size of .190mm, 4.27mm in front of the 
> case.  It has a photodiode with a single transistor preamp built in.
> Shouldn't be too hard to interface to, but making the wheel is going to be 
> a bear.  

  Why is the wheel going to be a bear. Spot size will allow me to use .2mm 
marks, the focal points a bit out there but I'll recess the sensor. But what is 
the output voltage? And the transition time?
  It's not a big deal because I'm using it on a digital counter circuit so all 
it has to do is generate a positive or negative going edge >2ns in diration.
  Opps by the way (I've never used these before) the reflection is the positive 
voltage right?


     Thanks... Cool beans!
         Jim Staff


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar  7 05:16:00 1996
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 05:09:07 GMT
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From: "Jim Staff"  <staffj@freenet.msp.mn.us>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Equations..
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

   I need help with equations for a MAP system. I have this general equation..

        PV=nRTe
           P = pressure [assuming intake from MAP sensor] in KPA
           V = Displacement of Cylinder                   in Liters
           N = moles of atmosphere                        in Moles
           R = Universal gas constant : 8.31L/Kpa         W/ KPA & Liters
           T = Absolute temp ¡K of intake air [temp sensors job]
           
           Could you help me nail down the real units on these things? I'm a 
second year chemistry student, and I know this simple Gas law but I don't know 
the units in this Application!!!

           e = Volumetric Efficiency                      Unitless
           
           Could someone provide a formula to just get a cheap estimate of this 
term. I can't solve for it since I have no empirical data, also no staight 
substitutions work either: as the e terms will cancel. 

           I have a briggs and stratton engine, and those bastards won't give me
volumetric efficiency information at all. They said that it wasn't even 
availible. I said bullshit if the didn't know Ve they wouldn't know other 
general things like fuel consumption and torque. I even said I didn't care if 
the values weren't worth shit.


            Please help me, I'm a High school hobbiest. I have no access to high
tech equipment like dyno's and bench equipment. My life sucks,
      
 
            Thanks for your concern,
                   Jim Staff


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar  7 05:17:15 1996
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From: MTaylorfi@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 00:10:19 -0500
Message-ID: <960307001018_440151794@mail04.mail.aol.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Info on MBM27C1028 EPROM for Subaru SVX
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

In a message dated 96-03-06 21:18:01 EST, you write:

>87256's and at the worst we can hook 4 of them **upo** as a development
module.
>
>
                                                                         ^^^

Peter,


Don't you have a spell checker down there!!!!

See ya,

Mike

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar  7 05:28:50 1996
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Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 23:18:39 -0600 (CST)
From: Mike Klopfer <klopfer@eagle.natinst.com>
Message-Id: <199603070518.XAA01235@eagle.natinst.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: fpga compilers
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I've seen free versions of MACH and Lattice isp series FPGA compilers,
there's also some other free compilers I saw on a FPGA www site but none
seemed to be for the big FPGAs. I
don't know how the size of these FPGAs compares with big stuff from Altera
or Xilinx. Also I saw an ad for Cypress VHDL compiler for $99.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar  7 10:37:12 1996
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Date: Thu, 07 Mar 1996 21:19:06 +1000
To: DIY_EFI
From: Michael Fawke <fawkacs@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Has anyone built their own EFI system yet?
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

Has anyone actually got a working EFI system running yet? By that
I mean a self-designed, computer based unit which will run an engine.

>From reading the mail so far (only subscribed last week), it sounds
like the electronics engineers are trying to develop discrete logic 
based systems, while the computing types are stuck on sensor design.
How about everyone co-operating so we can all benefit?

 

Michael Fawke
fawkacs@ozemail.com.au


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar  7 11:33:24 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: Mark Boxsell <mrb@mpx.com.au>
Subject: Re: inductive vs optical
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

At 11:43 AM 6/03/96 S, you wrote:

>Sensor problems give you the same problems regardless of sensor type
>(inductive, optical, ESP).
>If a sensor isn't working, you don't know what's happening. Period.

Inductive pickups are a bitch to work with. There is "nothing to go wrong"
but they are prone to
RFI big time. (Although the LM1815 seems to work quite well)

>
>Car engines run over a relatively wide rpm range, so time-based detection   
>
>is out.

I would have to severely disagree big time with this comment. How the hell
do you think 90% of the factory systems work
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

>Generally, I'd say an inductive sensor is more reliable than an optical   
>sensor.

A coil of wire is pretty reliable !

>The sensor itself isn't affect by voltage spikes as much as a LED,   
>although the
>supporting analogue circuitry may be.

True.

>
>Unfortunately, it's not easy to design an inductive pickup which will   
>work from
>cranking speed through to red-line.

Why ? Everyone (OEM's) does it.

>Regards,
>Andrew Dalgleish
>Axon Research, Pty Ltd
>6 Wallace Ave,
>Toorak, VIC
>3142
>AUSTRALIA
>Tel +61-3-9826-5538
>Fax +61-3-9824-0083
>

Sorry Andrew but when I see stuff that is a bit strange I have to point it out.
                regards,
                                Mark Boxsell.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar  7 13:29:24 1996
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From: "David M Parrish" <dmp@bmesun1.MCG.EDU>
To: diy_efi
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 08:38:43 +0000
Subject: Re: Info on MBM27C1028 EPROM for Subaru SVX
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>  How about you find your local FUJITSU seller .. I'll bet ya he has a burner
>  to program these .. and MAYBE even a few blanks ...
> 
>  NEXT .. get the code read ... and disassembled ..
> 
>  Now, even if you CANT get any more .. you can always just make a little
>  daughterboard on a header and use it to translate a regular 27C1024 into
>  a multiplexed arrangement ...
> 
>  No biggie ... (this is where you EE types step in to help ;)

Yeah, yeah. But with working full time, driving two hours a day, 
building an airplane, rewiring an engine and designing an engine 
mount, following the '332 project and some competitive shooting on 
weekends, who has time to hassle with an odd ball EPROM?

---
David Parrish
Oh, did I mention playing
entirely too much Doom?



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Subject: Re: Equations.. 
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             <199603070509.FAA29186@freenet.msp.mn.us> 
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>    I need help with equations for a MAP system. I have this 
> general equation.
> 
>         PV=nRTe
>            P = pressure [assuming intake from MAP sensor] in KPA
>            V = Displacement of Cylinder                   in Liters
>            N = moles of atmosphere                        in Moles
>            R = Universal gas constant : 8.31L/Kpa         W/ KPA & Liters
>            T = Absolute temp !K of intake air [temp sensors job]
>            
>            Could you help me nail down the real units on these 
> things? I'm a second year chemistry student, and I know this 
> simple Gas law but I don't know the units in this Application!!!

Here's one set of units that'll work:

P in pascals
V in meters^3
n in moles
R = 8.3143 joules/(mole*deg Kelvin)
T in deg Kelvin


> 
>            e = Volumetric Efficiency                      Unitless
>            
>            Could someone provide a formula to just get 
> a cheap estimate of this term. I can't solve for it since 
> I have no empirical data, also no staight substitutions work 
> either: as the e terms will cancel. 

Yes, e is unitless.  A very cheap formula is 
e(engine speed, manifold pressure) = 0.85.  This is a great
simplification of course, but is useful in getting started.

[snip]


Good luck,


Anthony Tsakiris

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
The opinions expressed are my own and not necessarily those of my employer.

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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 09:18:02 +0500
From: ehernan3@ford.com (Edward Hernandez (R))
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Equations..
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Jim Staff, try this instead:

PV=mRT, where

P=pressure in pascals(not kPa)
V=volume in m^3(cubic meters, not liters)
m=mass of air in the volume, kg
R=287 kJ/(K * kg) for air
T=absolute temperature in K

This one does away with moles. I'll make a bold assumption that you
know what a derivative is(if not, we'll explain). Take the derivative 
of each side of that equation with respect to time and you get:

P(dV/dt)=(dm/dt)RT, where

t=time, seconds
dV/dt=volume flow rate in m^3/s. A more common unit is CFM, but you
       can perform the conversion
dm/dt=mass flow rate in kg/s. A more common unit is lbs/hr, but...
      
Rearrange to solve for dm/dt, which is what you are really after:

dm/dt=P(dV/dt)/(R*T)

Now, R is constant, you can measure P with a MAP, T with an air charge
temperature(ACT) sensor.

Throw in Volumetric Efficiency(called eta, but I can't type in greek,
so I'll call it N which looks similar) as a correction factor for
dV/dt:

dm/dt=P(N*dV/dt)/(R*T)

Now dV/dt becomes a constant(it's your engine or cylinder 
displacement), and you need to predict N(that's you asked in the first
place, huh?). That's tough to predict without any measuring equipment 
at all. You could assume a relatively safe, constant number like 70%, 
but without measuring SOMETHING, you'll never know how close that is 
or how it changes with rpm at wide open throttle(WOT).

What are you building, kart? Powerplant? Tell us and I'm sure someone 
can help you figure out a way to qualitatively determine your WOT 
volumetric efficiency. I'm thinking you could try to monitor exhaust 
gas temperature(EGT) vs rpm, which can be done without a dyno.

Hey, glad to see a high school student trying stuff like this. Life
doesn't suck after all!

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar  7 15:56:02 1996
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From: Bruce Bowling <bowling@cebaf.gov>
Subject: Re: Equations..
To: diy_efi
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 1996 10:38:13 EST
In-Reply-To: <199603071441.AA16846@internet-mail2.ford.com>; from "R)" at Mar 07, 96 9:18 am
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~ 
~ Jim Staff, try this instead:
~ 
~ PV=mRT, where
~ 
~ P=pressure in pascals(not kPa)
~ V=volume in m^3(cubic meters, not liters)
~ m=mass of air in the volume, kg
~ R=287 kJ/(K * kg) for air
~ T=absolute temperature in K
~ 
~ This one does away with moles. I'll make a bold assumption that you
~ know what a derivative is(if not, we'll explain). Take the derivative 
~ of each side of that equation with respect to time and you get:
~ 
~ P(dV/dt)=(dm/dt)RT, where
~ 
~ t=time, seconds
~ dV/dt=volume flow rate in m^3/s. A more common unit is CFM, but you
~        can perform the conversion
~ dm/dt=mass flow rate in kg/s. A more common unit is lbs/hr, but...
~       
~ Rearrange to solve for dm/dt, which is what you are really after:
~ 
~ dm/dt=P(dV/dt)/(R*T)
~ 
~ Now, R is constant, you can measure P with a MAP, T with an air charge
~ temperature(ACT) sensor.
~ 
~ Throw in Volumetric Efficiency(called eta, but I can't type in greek,
~ so I'll call it N which looks similar) as a correction factor for
~ dV/dt:
~ 
~ dm/dt=P(N*dV/dt)/(R*T)
~ 
~ Now dV/dt becomes a constant(it's your engine or cylinder 
~ displacement), and you need to predict N(that's you asked in the first
~ place, huh?). That's tough to predict without any measuring equipment 
~ at all. You could assume a relatively safe, constant number like 70%, 
~ but without measuring SOMETHING, you'll never know how close that is 
~ or how it changes with rpm at wide open throttle(WOT).
~ 
~ What are you building, kart? Powerplant? Tell us and I'm sure someone 
~ can help you figure out a way to qualitatively determine your WOT 
~ volumetric efficiency. I'm thinking you could try to monitor exhaust 
~ gas temperature(EGT) vs rpm, which can be done without a dyno.
~ 
~ Hey, glad to see a high school student trying stuff like this. Life
~ doesn't suck after all!
~ 
This explanation is EXCELLENT!!!!  This should go on the DIY_EFY WWW page.
Good work, Mr. R)   (whoever you are.....).

- Bruce



--
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------
               Bruce A. Bowling
  Staff Scientist - Instrumentation and Controls
 The Continuous Electron Beam Accelerator Facility
    12000 Jefferson Ave - Newport News, VA 23602
                 (804) 249-7240
                bowling@cebaf.gov  
        http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar  7 16:18:23 1996
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Equations.. 
In-Reply-To: Your message of "Thu, 07 Mar 96 09:18:02 +0500."
             <199603071441.AA16846@internet-mail2.ford.com> 
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> PV=mRT, where

I prefer that form too.  Engineers seem to use m (mass), chemists
seem to use n (moles).  Either works as long as you keep track of 
the universal gas constant units.  The notation I've seen includes
a bar over the R for the molar version.

       _
   R = R/M   where M is a gases molecular mass  (about 29 for air)


> R=287 kJ/(K * kg) for air

  There may be a factor of 1000 problem here.  Someone please
  check the following math!
  _
  R = 8.3 J/(mole*K)
      _
  R = R/M = { 8.3 J/(mole*K) } / { 29 g/mole }  = 0.287 J/(g*K)
                                                = 0.287 kJ/(kg*K)


> Hey, glad to see a high school student trying stuff like this.

Yes, me too.  Keep at it.


Anthony Tsakiris  


Notation:

 P = pressure
 V = cylinder volume
 R = gas constant for a specific gas
 _
 R = universal gas constant
 T = absolute temperature
 M = molecular mass

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
The opinions expressed are my own and not necessarily those of my employer.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar  7 16:18:55 1996
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David M Parrish wrote:
> 
> >  How about you find your local FUJITSU seller .. I'll bet ya he has a burner
> >  to program these .. and MAYBE even a few blanks ...
> >
> >  NEXT .. get the code read ... and disassembled ..
> >
> >  Now, even if you CANT get any more .. you can always just make a little
> >  daughterboard on a header and use it to translate a regular 27C1024 into
> >  a multiplexed arrangement ...
> >
> >  No biggie ... (this is where you EE types step in to help ;)
> 
> Yeah, yeah. But with working full time, driving two hours a day,
> building an airplane, rewiring an engine and designing an engine
> mount, following the '332 project and some competitive shooting on
> weekends, who has time to hassle with an odd ball EPROM?
> 

David, you could eliminate all but the "building an airplane" from the 
above list and still not have enough time to screw around with an 
oddball EPROM. Now you can see why I went with the aftermarket system to 
get the prototype engine ready to fly, and then after that trying to do 
my own EFI for it.

BTW, where are you in the building process now?

-j-

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Subject: Re: Equations..
To: diy_efi
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 11:27:51 -0500 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <199603070509.FAA29186@freenet.msp.mn.us> from "Jim Staff" at Mar 7, 96 05:09:07 am
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>         PV=nRTe
>            P = pressure [assuming intake from MAP sensor] in KPA
>            V = Displacement of Cylinder                   in Liters
>            N = moles of atmosphere                        in Moles
>            R = Universal gas constant : 8.31L/Kpa         W/ KPA & Liters
>            T = Absolute temp ¡K of intake air [temp sensors job]
>            
>            Could you help me nail down the real units on these things? I'm a 
> second year chemistry student, and I know this simple Gas law but I don't know 
> the units in this Application!!!

You're a second year chemistry student and you don't have a chem book
with these units written inside the front cover ? %-)

Pressure has dimensions:   force/length squared
Volume has dimensions:     length cubed
n has no dimensions (primary dimensions anyways) the units are moles
T has secondary dimension, temperature (sometimes a primary dimension).

Knowing the above, you can rearrange the equation and get the dimensions
and therefor, units, of the universal gas constant (which I always forget
myself).

I have never seen the ideal gas law used in conjunction with
volumetric efficiency like you state above, however.   That doesn't
mean that it isn't -I just haven't seen it.  Maybe someone else can
elaborate.


There are many ways to calculate volumetric efficiency.   I can
bring in some formulas later.  But typical values for spark ignition
engines run about .5-1   (1 being an all out race engine).


Steve

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With regard to determining volumetric efficiency ...

You need some form of air flow meter to measure the actual
amount of air that is inducted by the engine.  (This actual
measurement is then compared to the displacement of the engine.)
The air flow meter doesn't have to be fancy or even electronic.
Jim (Staff), the simplest approach I can think of is to use
a standard orifice or a laminar flow meter.  You can use a 
simple water manometer to measure the pressure drop across
these devices (just make sure that all the air that goes
into your engine goes through the device too - buy some duct 
tape).  To convert from pressure drop to mass flow rate, you'll
need to know the flow coefficient for the standard orifice or
a calibration curve for the laminar flow meter.  Ask your physics
teacher if your school has such equipment.

Anthony Tsakiris


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From: ehernan3@ford.com (Edward Hernandez (R))
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Equations..
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>   There may be a factor of 1000 problem here.  Someone please
>   check the following math!
>   _
>   R = 8.3 J/(mole*K)
>       _
>   R = R/M = { 8.3 J/(mole*K) } / { 29 g/mole }  = 0.287 J/(g*K)
>                                                 = 0.287 kJ/(kg*K)

Your math is correct, but I posted the wrong units in the formula.
R is actually in units of J/(kg*K), not kJ/(kg*K) as I first posted.

Substitue "R=287 J/(kg*K)" instead of "R=287 kJ/(kg*K)" and the units
will work out in the formula as originally posted. Gee, you guys are
sharp!

Ed Hernandez
Ford Motor Company
ehernan3@ed8719.pto.ford.com

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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 12:51:58 -0500
From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
Message-Id: <9603071751.AA17370@ivan.gallium.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Engine Analyzer
Sender: owner-diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

Recently there has been some discussion about the accuracy of commercial
programs like Engine Analyzer. I've been playing with Engine Analyzer, and
I'm fairly impressed. They claim +/- 15% accuaracy between their calculations
and a real dyno test. Here is a list of the inputs available to EA. This
list was something I cribbed up to create a spec sheet for an engine, so there
may be an error or two. You'll note that some inputs seem redundant. That is
because EA allows you to enter a measured value, or if you don't have one it
will estimate from other characteristics. For example, it I have an intake
manifold tested on a flow bench, then I can enter those values directly. If
not, then by entering shape, diameter, length, etc., EA will estimate the
flow rating. Obviously, a measurement is more accurate than an estimate.

---------------------------------- Cut Here ----------------------------------
Engine Specifications
Base Engine
Bore, inches
Stroke, inches
Number of cylinders
Compression ratio
Clearance
Head combustion chamber volume, cc's
Piston dome volume, cc's
Gasket thickness, inches
Deck height, inches
Mill
Inches milled
Percentage of bore area
Accessories
0 - Race engine, no accessories, on dynamometer
1 - Production engine, no accessories, on dynamometer
1 - Race Drag engine, in vehicle
2 - Production engine, min. accessories, in vehicle
2 - Road race engine, in vehicle
3 - '1970s' production engine, in vehicle
4 - 'Pre 1970s' production engine, in vehicle
Intake System
Number of valves per cylinder
Valve diameter, inches
Runner diameter, inches
Runner width, inches
Runner height, inches
Oval/Rectangular shape (O/R)
Runner length, inches
Valve flow coefficient
Flow bench test pressure, "H2O
Number of valves per cylinder
Valve diameter, inches
Valve lift, inches
Flow, standard CFM
Runner flow coefficient
Flow bench test pressure, "H2O
Number of valves per cylinder
Valve diameter, inches
Valve lift, inches
Flow (less runner), standard CFM
Runner diameter, inches
Flow (with runner), standard CFM

Intake Type
1 - Dual plane manifold
2 - Single plane manifold (street)
3 - Single plane manifold (race)
4 - Production 'long runner' injected
5 - Individual runner (IR) carburetors
6 - Individual fuel injector stacks
Intake heat (Yes/No)
Carburetor/Throttle-body flow rating, CFM
Total number of primary barrels
Primary throttle diameter, inches
Total number of secondary barrels
Secondary throttle diameter, inches
Vacuum secondary (Yes/No)
Exhaust System
Number of valves per cylinder
Valve diameter, inches
Runner diameter, inches
Runner width, inches
Runner height, inches
Oval/Rectangular shape (O/R)
Runner length, inches
Valve flow coefficient
Flow bench test pressure, "H2O
Number of valves per cylinder
Valve diameter, inches
Valve lift, inches
Flow, standard CFM
Runner flow coefficient
Flow bench test pressure, "H2O
Number of valves per cylinder
Valve diameter, inches
Valve lift, inches
Flow (less runner), standard CFM
Runner diameter, inches
Flow (with runner), standard CFM
Exhaust system CFM rating, CFM
Original engine HP
Vehicle type (Race/Sport/Quiet)

Cam/Valve Train
Intake cam specifications
Open @ 0.050", degrees BTDC
Centerline
Lobe centerline, crankshaft degrees
Duration @ 0.050", crankshaft degrees
Separation
Lobe separation, camshaft degrees
Duration @ 0.050", crankshaft degrees
Close @ 0.050", degrees ABDC
Centerline
Lobe centerline, crankshaft degrees
Duration @ 0.050", crankshaft degrees
Separation
Lobe separation, camshaft degrees
Duration @ 0.050", crankshaft degrees
Maximum lobe lift at tappet, inches
Lash at valve, inches
Rocker arm ratio
Exhaust cam specifications
Open @ 0.050", degrees BBDC
Centerline
Lobe centerline, crankshaft degrees
Duration @ 0.050", crankshaft degrees
Separation
Lobe separation, camshaft degrees
Duration @ 0.050", crankshaft degrees
Close @ 0.050", degrees ATDC
Centerline
Lobe centerline, crankshaft degrees
Duration @ 0.050", crankshaft degrees
Separation
Lobe separation, camshaft degrees
Duration @ 0.050", crankshaft degrees
Maximum lobe lift at tappet, inches
Lash at valve, inches
Rocker arm ratio
Cam advance, degrees

Supercharger
Supercharger present (Yes/No)
Supercharger type (Centrifugal/Racing roots/Street roots/Turbo)
Boost limit, "Hg
Intercooler efficiency, %
 0 - No intercooler
50 -Typical intercooler
100 - 'Perfect' intercooler
150 - 'Cooled' intercooler
Centrifugal/Roots belt ratio
Supercharger pulley diameter, inches
Crank pulley diameter, inches
Roots volume per revolution, cubic inches
Relative turbo size (Small/Medium/Large/Xtra large)
Calculate Performance
Environmental conditions
Barometric pressure, "Hg
Intake air temperature, degrees Fahrenheit
Relative humidity, %
Relative humidity temperature, degrees Fahrenheit
Elevation, feet
Coolant temperature, degrees Fahrenheit
Nitrous oxide specifications
Nitrous oxide system rating, HP
RPM to start nitrous
RPM for full nitrous
Gas/Alcohol (G/A)
Rpm's to Run
Starting RPM
Number of Rpm's
RPM increment
Recommended runner dimensions
For this RPM
Specified intake runner length, inches
---------------------------------- Cut Here ----------------------------------

With all those inputs, EA also puts out a fairly complete "dyno sheet" as
well as graphing torque and HP vs RPM (including overplotting two runs so
you can see the differences.

---------------------------------- Cut Here ----------------------------------
------  ENGINE COMMENTS  ---------------------------------------------------
       Mercruiser MC470 Stock
       Rated at 170 HP; Suggested peak RPM is 4400 RPM

------  PROJECTED PERFORMANCE  ---------------------------------------------
RPM     600    1200   1800   2400   3000   3600   4200   4800   5400   6000
BRK TQ  190    208    218    220    222    222    207    187    164    139
BRK HP  21.8   47.6   74.8   101    127    152    166    171    169    159
EX PRS  .1     .3     .8     1.5    2.4    3.5    4.4    5.1    5.7    6.1
IN VAC  0.0    0.0    .1     .2     .3     .4     .5     .6     .7     .7
VE %    67.7   74.5   78.9   81.4   83.8   85.8   83.0   79.5   75.3   70.2
CFM     28.3   62.3   99.0   136    175    215    243    266    283    293
FL FLW  10.4   22.9   36.3   49.9   64.3   78.9   89.0   97.6   104    108
BSFC    .477   .480   .485   .496   .507   .518   .537   .571   .615   .678
BSAC    5.966  6.006  6.068  6.206  6.340  6.477  6.710  7.135  7.686  8.471
FRN HP  2      5      9      14     21     29     39     49     61     73
MACH #  .063   .127   .190   .253   .317   .380   .443   .507   .570   .633
PSN SP  375    750    1125   1500   1875   2250   2625   3000   3375   3750
PSN GS  25     98     221    392    613    882    1201   1568   1985   2450
OV %VE  -.4    -.4    -.4    -.4    -.3    -.3    -.3    -.3    -.2    -.2
IN VEL  23     47     70     93     116    140    163    186    209    233
IN TNP  0.0    0.0    .2     .5     1.0    1.5    1.8    2.1    2.3    2.4
IN OVP  0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0
EX VEL  38     77     115    153    192    230    268    307    345    384
EX OVP  0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    -.1    -.3    -.7    -1.2   -1.5
OCTANE  130+   120    110    105    100    100    95     90     85     85

------  VALVE FLOW & CAM CALCULATIONS  -------------------  --INT--  --EXH--
OVERLAP AREA, SQ IN*DEG    2.3         VALVE AVG FLOW COEF   .284     .321
VALVE EXH/INT %            73.7        TOTAL AVG FLOW COEF   .278     .312
TOTAL EXH/INT %            73.3        LOBE AREA, INCH*DEG   20.47    22.40
LOBE SEPARATION, CAM DEG   112.0       VLV AREA, SQ IN*DEG   252.2    185.9
                                  LOBE CENTERLINES      107.0    117.0

------  GENERAL ENGINE CALCULATIONS  ---------------------------------------
DISPLACEMENT, ccs          3670.6      DISPLACEMENT, cu in        223.95
STATIC VOL EFF, %          79.0        COMPRESSION RATIO          8.80
THEO. CRANK COMPRSSN, PSI  190         CLEARANCE VOLUME, ccs      117.6
CARB MINIMUM WOT RPM       870         EST INT CLOSING, DEG ABC   61.9

------  RECOMMENDED RUNNER DIMENSIONS @ 5000 RPM  -------  --AREA--  --DIA--
INTAKE DIMENSIONS ( FOR 1 RUNNER/CYLINDER ):
REC INERTIA LEN, IN      11.7        REC AREA, SQ IN/IN    3.17     2.01
SPEC INERTIA LEN, IN     11.0        REC AREA, SQ IN/IN    2.98     1.95
REC LEN, 2ND PULSE       28.9        REC AREA, SQ IN/IN    7.82     3.16
REC LEN, 3RD PULSE       20.8        REC AREA, SQ IN/IN    5.63     2.68
EXHAUST DIMENSIONS ( FOR 1750 FT/SEC & 1 RUNNER/CYLINDER ):
REC LEN, 1ST PULSE       59.3        REC AREA, 300 FT/SEC  2.59     1.817
REC LEN, 2ND PULSE       27.0        PRIMARY TUBE O.D.              2.000
---------------------------------- Cut Here ----------------------------------

Engine Analyzer comes with a 166 page manual explaining all of this, but I'll
just repeat the explainations for the rows under PROJECTED PERFORMANCE to
make the above example easier to understand.

RPM	Engines rotational speed in Revolutions Per Minute
BRK TQ	Brake Torque in foot pounds - usable net torque at flywheel
BRK HP	Brake Horse Power - usable net power at flywheel
EX PRS	Exhaust Pressuse in inches of mercury measured after manifold
IN VAC	Intake Vaccum in inches of mercury after the throttle body
VE %	Volumetric Efficiency as a percentage - % cylinder fills and remains
CFM	Flow rating of air into the engine in Cubic Feet per Minute
FL FLW	Fuel Flow in pounds per hour (gasoline or methanol)
BSFC	Brake Specific Fuel Consumption in pounds per horsepower hour
BSAC	Brake Specific Air Consumption in pounds per horsepower hour
FRN HP	Friction HorsePower - power lost in internal friction and accesories
MACH #	Mean or Average Mach Number - see paper SAE 790484
PSN SP	Piston Speed in feet per minute
PSN GS	Piston Acceleration in Gs at TDC - helps establish a red-line
OV %VE	Overlap Contribution to Volumetric Efficiency- due to overlap scavenging
IN VEL	Average Intake Runner Velocity in feet per second
IN TNP	Intake Inertia Tuning Pressure in inches of mercury
IN OVP	Intake Overlap Pressure from Resonance Tuning in inches of mercury
EX VEL	Average Exhaust Runner Velocity in feet per second
EX OVP	Exhaust Overlap Pressure from Resonance and Inertia Tuning - ft/sec
OCTANE	Fuel Octane Required - estimated RM required for peak performance

And finally:

Engine Analyzer, v2.1

Performance Trends, Inc.
PO Box 573
Dearborn Heights, MI
48127

1(810)473-9230


Summit Racing sells EA for about $80US.

There is an Engine Analyzer Pro version which sells for around $500US and
includes the following:

- Valve train dynamics
- Sophisticated detonation predictions
- Full 4-cycle calculations for modeling of unusual or complex engine designs.
  (This feature significantly increases execution time.)


Engine Analyzer is an MS-DOS program (runs under Windows 95). Requirements
are minimal (IBM PC, XT, AT, PS/2 or 100% compatible; 512K of RAM, MS-DOS 2.0
or higher). Graphs are EGA resolution (or CGA if mono), but are acceptable.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar  7 18:25:04 1996
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	for @odin.gallium.com:diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu id AA17395; Thu, 7 Mar 96 13:04:51 -0500
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 13:04:51 -0500
From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
Message-Id: <9603071804.AA17395@ivan.gallium.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Engine Analyzer
Sender: owner-diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

Recently there has been some discussion about the accuracy of commercial
programs like Engine Analyzer. I've been playing with Engine Analyzer, and
I'm fairly impressed. They claim +/- 15% accuaracy between their calculations
and a real dyno test. Here is a list of the inputs available to EA. This
list was something I cribbed up to create a spec sheet for an engine, so there
may be an error or two. You'll note that some inputs seem redundant. That is
because EA allows you to enter a measured value, or if you don't have one it
will estimate from other characteristics. For example, it I have an intake
manifold tested on a flow bench, then I can enter those values directly. If
not, then by entering shape, diameter, length, etc., EA will estimate the
flow rating. Obviously, a measurement is more accurate than an estimate.

---------------------------------- Cut Here ----------------------------------
Engine Specifications
Base Engine
Bore, inches
Stroke, inches
Number of cylinders
Compression ratio
Clearance
Head combustion chamber volume, cc's
Piston dome volume, cc's
Gasket thickness, inches
Deck height, inches
Mill
Inches milled
Percentage of bore area
Accessories
0 - Race engine, no accessories, on dynamometer
1 - Production engine, no accessories, on dynamometer
1 - Race Drag engine, in vehicle
2 - Production engine, min. accessories, in vehicle
2 - Road race engine, in vehicle
3 - '1970s' production engine, in vehicle
4 - 'Pre 1970s' production engine, in vehicle
Intake System
Number of valves per cylinder
Valve diameter, inches
Runner diameter, inches
Runner width, inches
Runner height, inches
Oval/Rectangular shape (O/R)
Runner length, inches
Valve flow coefficient
Flow bench test pressure, "H2O
Number of valves per cylinder
Valve diameter, inches
Valve lift, inches
Flow, standard CFM
Runner flow coefficient
Flow bench test pressure, "H2O
Number of valves per cylinder
Valve diameter, inches
Valve lift, inches
Flow (less runner), standard CFM
Runner diameter, inches
Flow (with runner), standard CFM

Intake Type
1 - Dual plane manifold
2 - Single plane manifold (street)
3 - Single plane manifold (race)
4 - Production 'long runner' injected
5 - Individual runner (IR) carburetors
6 - Individual fuel injector stacks
Intake heat (Yes/No)
Carburetor/Throttle-body flow rating, CFM
Total number of primary barrels
Primary throttle diameter, inches
Total number of secondary barrels
Secondary throttle diameter, inches
Vacuum secondary (Yes/No)
Exhaust System
Number of valves per cylinder
Valve diameter, inches
Runner diameter, inches
Runner width, inches
Runner height, inches
Oval/Rectangular shape (O/R)
Runner length, inches
Valve flow coefficient
Flow bench test pressure, "H2O
Number of valves per cylinder
Valve diameter, inches
Valve lift, inches
Flow, standard CFM
Runner flow coefficient
Flow bench test pressure, "H2O
Number of valves per cylinder
Valve diameter, inches
Valve lift, inches
Flow (less runner), standard CFM
Runner diameter, inches
Flow (with runner), standard CFM
Exhaust system CFM rating, CFM
Original engine HP
Vehicle type (Race/Sport/Quiet)

Cam/Valve Train
Intake cam specifications
Open @ 0.050", degrees BTDC
Centerline
Lobe centerline, crankshaft degrees
Duration @ 0.050", crankshaft degrees
Separation
Lobe separation, camshaft degrees
Duration @ 0.050", crankshaft degrees
Close @ 0.050", degrees ABDC
Centerline
Lobe centerline, crankshaft degrees
Duration @ 0.050", crankshaft degrees
Separation
Lobe separation, camshaft degrees
Duration @ 0.050", crankshaft degrees
Maximum lobe lift at tappet, inches
Lash at valve, inches
Rocker arm ratio
Exhaust cam specifications
Open @ 0.050", degrees BBDC
Centerline
Lobe centerline, crankshaft degrees
Duration @ 0.050", crankshaft degrees
Separation
Lobe separation, camshaft degrees
Duration @ 0.050", crankshaft degrees
Close @ 0.050", degrees ATDC
Centerline
Lobe centerline, crankshaft degrees
Duration @ 0.050", crankshaft degrees
Separation
Lobe separation, camshaft degrees
Duration @ 0.050", crankshaft degrees
Maximum lobe lift at tappet, inches
Lash at valve, inches
Rocker arm ratio
Cam advance, degrees

Supercharger
Supercharger present (Yes/No)
Supercharger type (Centrifugal/Racing roots/Street roots/Turbo)
Boost limit, "Hg
Intercooler efficiency, %
 0 - No intercooler
50 -Typical intercooler
100 - 'Perfect' intercooler
150 - 'Cooled' intercooler
Centrifugal/Roots belt ratio
Supercharger pulley diameter, inches
Crank pulley diameter, inches
Roots volume per revolution, cubic inches
Relative turbo size (Small/Medium/Large/Xtra large)
Calculate Performance
Environmental conditions
Barometric pressure, "Hg
Intake air temperature, degrees Fahrenheit
Relative humidity, %
Relative humidity temperature, degrees Fahrenheit
Elevation, feet
Coolant temperature, degrees Fahrenheit
Nitrous oxide specifications
Nitrous oxide system rating, HP
RPM to start nitrous
RPM for full nitrous
Gas/Alcohol (G/A)
Rpm's to Run
Starting RPM
Number of Rpm's
RPM increment
Recommended runner dimensions
For this RPM
Specified intake runner length, inches
---------------------------------- Cut Here ----------------------------------

With all those inputs, EA also puts out a fairly complete "dyno sheet" as
well as graphing torque and HP vs RPM (including overplotting two runs so
you can see the differences.

---------------------------------- Cut Here ----------------------------------
------  ENGINE COMMENTS  ---------------------------------------------------
       Mercruiser MC470 Stock
       Rated at 170 HP; Suggested peak RPM is 4400 RPM

------  PROJECTED PERFORMANCE  ---------------------------------------------
RPM     600    1200   1800   2400   3000   3600   4200   4800   5400   6000
BRK TQ  190    208    218    220    222    222    207    187    164    139
BRK HP  21.8   47.6   74.8   101    127    152    166    171    169    159
EX PRS  .1     .3     .8     1.5    2.4    3.5    4.4    5.1    5.7    6.1
IN VAC  0.0    0.0    .1     .2     .3     .4     .5     .6     .7     .7
VE %    67.7   74.5   78.9   81.4   83.8   85.8   83.0   79.5   75.3   70.2
CFM     28.3   62.3   99.0   136    175    215    243    266    283    293
FL FLW  10.4   22.9   36.3   49.9   64.3   78.9   89.0   97.6   104    108
BSFC    .477   .480   .485   .496   .507   .518   .537   .571   .615   .678
BSAC    5.966  6.006  6.068  6.206  6.340  6.477  6.710  7.135  7.686  8.471
FRN HP  2      5      9      14     21     29     39     49     61     73
MACH #  .063   .127   .190   .253   .317   .380   .443   .507   .570   .633
PSN SP  375    750    1125   1500   1875   2250   2625   3000   3375   3750
PSN GS  25     98     221    392    613    882    1201   1568   1985   2450
OV %VE  -.4    -.4    -.4    -.4    -.3    -.3    -.3    -.3    -.2    -.2
IN VEL  23     47     70     93     116    140    163    186    209    233
IN TNP  0.0    0.0    .2     .5     1.0    1.5    1.8    2.1    2.3    2.4
IN OVP  0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0
EX VEL  38     77     115    153    192    230    268    307    345    384
EX OVP  0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    -.1    -.3    -.7    -1.2   -1.5
OCTANE  130+   120    110    105    100    100    95     90     85     85

------  VALVE FLOW & CAM CALCULATIONS  -------------------  --INT--  --EXH--
OVERLAP AREA, SQ IN*DEG    2.3         VALVE AVG FLOW COEF   .284     .321
VALVE EXH/INT %            73.7        TOTAL AVG FLOW COEF   .278     .312
TOTAL EXH/INT %            73.3        LOBE AREA, INCH*DEG   20.47    22.40
LOBE SEPARATION, CAM DEG   112.0       VLV AREA, SQ IN*DEG   252.2    185.9
                                  LOBE CENTERLINES      107.0    117.0

------  GENERAL ENGINE CALCULATIONS  ---------------------------------------
DISPLACEMENT, ccs          3670.6      DISPLACEMENT, cu in        223.95
STATIC VOL EFF, %          79.0        COMPRESSION RATIO          8.80
THEO. CRANK COMPRSSN, PSI  190         CLEARANCE VOLUME, ccs      117.6
CARB MINIMUM WOT RPM       870         EST INT CLOSING, DEG ABC   61.9

------  RECOMMENDED RUNNER DIMENSIONS @ 5000 RPM  -------  --AREA--  --DIA--
INTAKE DIMENSIONS ( FOR 1 RUNNER/CYLINDER ):
REC INERTIA LEN, IN      11.7        REC AREA, SQ IN/IN    3.17     2.01
SPEC INERTIA LEN, IN     11.0        REC AREA, SQ IN/IN    2.98     1.95
REC LEN, 2ND PULSE       28.9        REC AREA, SQ IN/IN    7.82     3.16
REC LEN, 3RD PULSE       20.8        REC AREA, SQ IN/IN    5.63     2.68
EXHAUST DIMENSIONS ( FOR 1750 FT/SEC & 1 RUNNER/CYLINDER ):
REC LEN, 1ST PULSE       59.3        REC AREA, 300 FT/SEC  2.59     1.817
REC LEN, 2ND PULSE       27.0        PRIMARY TUBE O.D.              2.000
---------------------------------- Cut Here ----------------------------------

Engine Analyzer comes with a 166 page manual explaining all of this, but I'll
just repeat the explainations for the rows under PROJECTED PERFORMANCE to
make the above example easier to understand.

RPM	Engines rotational speed in Revolutions Per Minute
BRK TQ	Brake Torque in foot pounds - usable net torque at flywheel
BRK HP	Brake Horse Power - usable net power at flywheel
EX PRS	Exhaust Pressuse in inches of mercury measured after manifold
IN VAC	Intake Vaccum in inches of mercury after the throttle body
VE %	Volumetric Efficiency as a percentage - % cylinder fills and remains
CFM	Flow rating of air into the engine in Cubic Feet per Minute
FL FLW	Fuel Flow in pounds per hour (gasoline or methanol)
BSFC	Brake Specific Fuel Consumption in pounds per horsepower hour
BSAC	Brake Specific Air Consumption in pounds per horsepower hour
FRN HP	Friction HorsePower - power lost in internal friction and accesories
MACH #	Mean or Average Mach Number - see paper SAE 790484
PSN SP	Piston Speed in feet per minute
PSN GS	Piston Acceleration in Gs at TDC - helps establish a red-line
OV %VE	Overlap Contribution to Volumetric Efficiency- due to overlap scavenging
IN VEL	Average Intake Runner Velocity in feet per second
IN TNP	Intake Inertia Tuning Pressure in inches of mercury
IN OVP	Intake Overlap Pressure from Resonance Tuning in inches of mercury
EX VEL	Average Exhaust Runner Velocity in feet per second
EX OVP	Exhaust Overlap Pressure from Resonance and Inertia Tuning - ft/sec
OCTANE	Fuel Octane Required - estimated RM required for peak performance

And finally:

Engine Analyzer, v2.1

Performance Trends, Inc.
PO Box 573
Dearborn Heights, MI
48127

1(810)473-9230


Summit Racing sells EA for about $80US.

There is an Engine Analyzer Pro version which sells for around $500US and
includes the following:

- Valve train dynamics
- Sophisticated detonation predictions
- Full 4-cycle calculations for modeling of unusual or complex engine designs.
  (This feature significantly increases execution time.)


Engine Analyzer is an MS-DOS program (runs under Windows 95). Requirements
are minimal (IBM PC, XT, AT, PS/2 or 100% compatible; 512K of RAM, MS-DOS 2.0
or higher). Graphs are EGA resolution (or CGA if mono), but are acceptable.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar  7 18:45:20 1996
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 13:34:55 +0500
From: ehernan3@ford.com (Edward Hernandez (R))
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Volumetric efficiency (Re: Equations..)
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> With regard to determining volumetric efficiency ...
> 
> You need some form of air flow meter to measure the actual
> amount of air that is inducted by the engine.  (This actual
> measurement is then compared to the displacement of the engine.)
> The air flow meter doesn't have to be fancy or even electronic.
> Jim (Staff), the simplest approach I can think of is to use
> a standard orifice or a laminar flow meter.  You can use a 
> simple water manometer to measure the pressure drop across
> these devices (just make sure that all the air that goes
> into your engine goes through the device too - buy some duct 
> tape).  To convert from pressure drop to mass flow rate, you'll
> need to know the flow coefficient for the standard orifice or
> a calibration curve for the laminar flow meter.  Ask your physics
> teacher if your school has such equipment.

Remember that one of Jim Staff's problems is that he has no dyno. This
method requires steady state loading at WOT. I'd like to know what
he's building first.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar  7 18:45:25 1996
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From: Sandy <sandyg@interramp.com>
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I called newark, and they are in stock, so they said.

At 07:42 AM 3/6/96 GMT, you wrote:
>could it be, Tim used circuit resistances instead of an actual resistor?
>I did some coil testing 2 weeks ago in which I scoped the voltage drop
>across a clip lead leading to the driver ground.
>
>> You could consider paralleling several smaller resistors to get the 
>>required value.  Let's see, this resistor would dissipate about 2.5 W @
>>6 A (I^2*R).  You could parallel 4 X .1 ohm, 1W resistors (or 10 X .27 ohm
>>.5W) to give .025 ohm @ 4W (.027 ohm @ 5W), more than sufficient for the task.
>
>If you have good dwell control, the only time you'll approach these dissipation
>figures is at very high rpm when the duty cycle is highest.
>
>one last thing. does anyone know where to get the MC3334 (I could use 10-12)
>
>Fred
>
>


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar  7 19:03:43 1996
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From: Bruce Bowling <bowling@cebaf.gov>
Subject: Re: Equations..
To: diy_efi
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 1996 13:47:16 EST
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~ Substitue "R=287 J/(kg*K)" instead of "R=287 kJ/(kg*K)" and the units
~ will work out in the formula as originally posted. Gee, you guys are
~ sharp!
~ 
~ 
Isn't it great???  This list is much more productive than a room
full of engineers, and more fun.  Who knows, one day there may be a
official DIY_EFI conference (face-to-face)!

- Bruce

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar  7 19:58:58 1996
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From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
Message-Id: <9603071939.AA18065@ivan.gallium.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re:  Engine Analyzer
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(Sorry about sending that twice. I thought I had cancelled it the first time.)

Anyways...

I was talking to Performance Trends, and Engine Analyzer is now up to v2.5
(and now sells for about $100US at Summit). The fellow I was talking to listed
off a long list of changes, so I'll be updating my copy ASAP.

Mike
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar  7 21:25:42 1996
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Hi James

I am still not receiving any DIY_EFI messages except a few addressed to me.  So 
if you see a reply to my request let me know.  Thanks

The ISBN numbers

      The Probst book     0-8376-0300-5

      The bosch L-Jetronic pamphlet, only L-Jetronic, similar to a chapter in 
above book                1-85-226008-4



Your analog meter is fine.  I do not recommend the use of the oxygen sensor with
an intake manifold designed for a carburetter.  Most likely it will not be able 
to run lean at low rpm.  The oxygen sensor will run the car too lean at idle.


CO meters are available from Moss Motors, JC whitney.  expect to pay about $150
Nothin for EFI is cheap!!!!

A fuel pressure gauge is a must.  The range will depend on the type of system 
that you will be using.

If you can get an oscilloscope, that is helpful once the car is running but not 
essential.


Werner

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: L-jetronic
Author:  Non-HP-james (james@brc.ubc.ca) at HP-ColSprings,mimegw2
Date:    3/5/96 6:19 PM




Thanks Werner and welcome to the list !!

I usually reply direct instead of to the list (saves time sifting throught 
the list looking for people who have replied to you).  Wow, I'm impressed 
with 
your conversion, how did you know it would work???  Similar engine size?

I've got the Jeff Hartman book, I agree it's fantastic.

I'd be really interested in hearing the story behind this job, your 
troubles and triumphs etc.  I'd like to do something like this some day 
so I'm trying to learn from other peoples experiences.

What equipment do you have for EFI that you can't live without??
I'm looking at fuel pressure guages and am having trouble deciding which 
one to get.  Any advice???

One more thing, can you get me the ISBN number for the Bosch FI book?? Is 
this the one by Adler ??  Sounds like a good read.

thanks again

james

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar  7 23:09:04 1996
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Hi James

You are, of course, correct. I was thinking about a throttle body.  I don't 
recommend a running a O2 sensor with a throttle body unless the manifold is 
heated, or is designed for FI.

Also it's worth considering if the engine is meant to run at 
stoichiometric.  I prefer to run it at the mixture that was intended for 
the engine.  Besides running a little rich gives a little more power and 
runs cooler. The problem is fuel condensing out in the manifold and thus 
changing the mixture (with a throttle body). 


And more - some of the '70's cars require a rich mixture for the smog stuff 
to work correctly.  Not all Catalytic converters are '3 -way catalytic 
converters.  Some are not even Catalytic (MGB) I've been told. These 
actually act like an afterburner, and need some fuel (rich) to keep things 
hot.

I suspect the A/F meter you are mentioning for $30 are devices hooked up to 
the O2 sensor.  Anything hooked to a normal O2 sensor can only measure the 
mixture around stoichiometric. It can't measure mixtures that are rich like 
you get with cars designed for carburettors or when you tune for max power.

The CO meter I mentioned is something you stick up the tail pipe.  Not as 
good as the ones at emission testing stations, but a lot cheaper.

Ideally you want to measure the Air, Fuel ratio.  none measure that 
directly.  If you measure the Oxygen (Oxygen sensor) or the Carbon Monoxide 
CO meter (that measures exhaust density) you can infer the A/F mixture.

I think I'm on the DIY EMI list now.  I'll see if this message comes back 
to me.  I still haven't had any replies to my original message.


Werner
Colorado




______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: 
Author:  Non-HP-james (james@brc.ubc.ca) at HP-ColSprings,mimegw2
Date:    3/7/96 2:30 PM



Hello again

What's the theory behind why a O2 sensor won't work in a maifold that has 
been machined to accept injectors just upstream of the intake valve??
Or were you talking about throttle body injection ???
I've seen a couple of conversions (in books) that do this and incorporate 
an O2 sensor...I never thought of this before...interesting.


What about A/F meters...I've seen some people talking about these...they 
a supposedly only $30.00
Ever used one or know what they are talking about???  I don't know 
what these measure  HC, CO or CO2 ???

Ya I'll keep my eye peeled...I'll check out the DIY EFI home page later 
today and see if I can find the instructions I used to subscribe.  See if 
they are any different to what you used.

Say where are you located ?? I'm in Vancouver B.C. Canada.

later and thanks for the ISBN numbers

jw


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HELLO, DOES ANYBODY CAN HELP ME TO FIND A LAMBDA (OXYGEN) SENSOR SELLER
IN SINGAPORE.
THANKYOU.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  8 03:32:50 1996
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> From:          Bruce Bowling <bowling@cebaf.gov>
 <snip>
> Isn't it great???  This list is much more productive than a room
> full of engineers, and more fun.  Who knows, one day there may be a
> official DIY_EFI conference (face-to-face)!
> 
> - Bruce
>
Great idea!  Which continent?  ;)

je

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  8 05:11:00 1996
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Date: Thu, 7 Mar 96 21:53:26 MDT
From: dn <dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
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Jim:

>   Why is the wheel going to be a bear. Spot size will allow me to use .2mm 
> marks, the focal points a bit out there but I'll recess the sensor. 

This kind of accuracy requires photo reduction techniques, ya can't just bang
one out on your dot matrix...  Not cheep and not quick...  You'd be much
better off just buying an encoder.  Newark has 100 ppr units that look like 
a pot for around $35, rated for 10,000,000 revolutions.

> But what is the output voltage? And the transition time?

No idea.  The only app circuit I have for this is pretty easy, though.
First, supply the LED (pin 6) via about a 120 ohm resistor to 5v, this will 
give you around 30 mA LED current. (pin 4 is LED ground) 

The detector circuit is dead simple.  Tie the photodiode cathode (pin 3) to 
+5v.  Put in a 100k resistor from pin 1 to +5v, this is RL.  Put a 10 Meg 
feedback resistor from pin 1 to pin 2.  Tie pin 8 to ground.  That's all
there is to it.  Oh yeah, output voltage is also taken from pin 1.  I have 
no idea what the output voltage from this circuit is, just breadboard it up 
and find out.  You may need an extra stage of amplification and a schmitt
trigger to clean it up for your counter logic.  

If you need more info than that, you'll have to contact HP and get some
app notes, I haven't used the thing before, either...

regards
dn


--
---------------------------------------------------------------------
 Darrell A. Norquay              Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca     
 Datalog Technology Inc.         Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell
 Calgary, Alberta, Canada        Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220            
                                 Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872            
    @ +                                                                
     <                                                         
    __/    "Absolutum Obsoletum" - If it works, it's obsolete    
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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  8 05:42:04 1996
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pplies to a static situation.  Again rather boring
for an engine...

See ya,

Mike

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On Thursday, 7 March 1996 21:53, owner-diy_efi-outgoing wrote:
>
> Jim:
>
> >   Why is the wheel going to be a bear. Spot size will allow me to use   
.2mm
> > marks, the focal points a bit out there but I'll recess the sensor.
>
> This kind of accuracy requires photo reduction techniques, ya can't   
just bang
> one out on your dot matrix...  Not cheep and not quick...

Photo reduction isn't that expensive. I've done it by taking a shot with   
a 120 camera and using the negative. Most wedding photographers could do   
it for you, probably for a few beers.

I've also seen a sticky metalic (so it doesn't stretch) tape with   
light/dark bands on it. You just wrap this around a shaft a few times   
until the stripes line up.

> You'd be much
> better off just buying an encoder.  Newark has 100 ppr units that look   
like
> a pot for around $35, rated for 10,000,000 revolutions.

That's less than 28 hours at 6000 rpm. Are you sure there isn't another   
1000 in there?

>
> > But what is the output voltage? And the transition time?
>
> No idea.  The only app circuit I have for this is pretty easy, though.
> First, supply the LED (pin 6) via about a 120 ohm resistor to 5v, this   
will
> give you around 30 mA LED current. (pin 4 is LED ground)
>
> The detector circuit is dead simple.  Tie the photodiode cathode (pin   
3) to
> +5v.  Put in a 100k resistor from pin 1 to +5v, this is RL.  Put a 10   
Meg
> feedback resistor from pin 1 to pin 2.  Tie pin 8 to ground.  That's   
all
> there is to it.  Oh yeah, output voltage is also taken from pin 1.  I   
have
> no idea what the output voltage from this circuit is, just breadboard   
it up
> and find out.  You may need an extra stage of amplification and a   
schmitt
> trigger to clean it up for your counter logic.
>
> If you need more info than that, you'll have to contact HP and get some
> app notes, I haven't used the thing before, either...
>

Sounds a *lot* better than using separate led/phototransistor.

> regards
> dn
>
>
> --
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>  Darrell A. Norquay              Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca
>  Datalog Technology Inc.         Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell
>  Calgary, Alberta, Canada        Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220
>                                  Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872
>     @ +
>      <
>     __/    "Absolutum Obsoletum" - If it works, it's obsolete
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>

Regards,
Andrew Dalgleish
Senior Software Engineer
Axon Research, Pty Ltd
6 Wallace Ave,
Toorak, VIC
3142
AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-3-9826-5538
Fax +61-3-9824-0083

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  8 13:50:24 1996
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To: diy_efi
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> Hmmm - nope, the .075 ohm resistor is missing from Tim's circuit (the Net
> version anyway). What resistor do you use here? Obviously this is not 
> something that you buy off the shelf.... Maybe several pieces of resistance
> wire to carry the current?
  
Oops.  It got left off the schematic.  When I couldn't find a 0.075 ohm 
resister I found some 12 guage wire and ran about an inch or so.  Between the 
wire and the PCB ground plane I ended up with about 0.075 ohms.  (yes, I did 
subtract off the resistance for the ohmmeter leads).  

-tim



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From: "bryan (b.p.) rozier" <bprozier@bnr.ca>
Message-ID:  <"15085 Fri Mar  8 09:15:50 1996"@bnr.ca> 
To: diy_efi
Subject:  CO sensor for Leaded ? 
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

Hi folks,

After downloading some of the circuits for CO meters
from the web site I was planning to make one for 
my mini. However I saw a note (in the faq?) that 
said that all CO sensors are for unleaded fuel only :(

However you can buy exhaust gas analysers which work
on leaded (for biggish bucks) so there must be some
around. Any ideas ? Are there any UK available cars
with such a thing (adverse to spending money :) )

Cheers
Bryan<------------------------------------------------------------------^
| B.P. Rozier  |  Alleged Software Engineer | bprozier@bnr.co.uk   |
| voice/vmail  |  Bell Northern Research    | CBR1000F-J VROOOOM:) |
| 01279 403746 |  Harlow, Essex, England    | OGRI.    DoD #0xFOAD |
v------------------------------------------------------------------>

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  8 15:06:00 1996
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Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 09:54:46 -0500
From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
Message-Id: <9603081454.AA19224@ivan.gallium.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Encoder
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> rated for 10,000,000 revolutions

If traveling at 50 MPH, turning 2,000 RPM, that encoder will expire after
4,150 miles. You'll be changing encoders more often than most people change
their oil.

Mike
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  8 16:26:55 1996
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Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 10:17:53 -0600 (CST)
From: "Kenneth C. King" <kking@HiWAAY.net>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Encoder
In-Reply-To: <9602080453.AA18929@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
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On Thu, 7 Mar 1996, dn wrote:
> better off just buying an encoder.  Newark has 100 ppr units that look like 
> a pot for around $35, rated for 10,000,000 revolutions.
greetings:
  help me with the math...  10M revolutions at highway speed (2500 rpm) will
be used up in 4000 min. (4000m * 2500r/m = 10Mrev)  that's about 66 hour, or
about 5 days (straight), which at 60 mph is about 4000 miles.  did i do this
correctly?  if so, i have a newfound respect for the mtbf of most engines!

later,
kc
--
"ooooh, crumbs!"if the world is nite, shine my life like a lite"live your life
with PASSION"hey waiter, there's a transvestite in my soup"hey mister, are you
tall?"all alone in the nite"son of a son of a sailor"John DeArmond fanclub #13
"he's dead, jim"he's not dead, he's electroencephalographically challenged" kc


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  8 18:03:03 1996
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Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 12:37:21 -0500
From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
Message-Id: <9603081737.AA19363@ivan.gallium.com>
To: diy_efi
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> if so, i have a newfound respect for the mtbf of most engines!

It's truely awesome. I have Toyoto truck with 235,000 Km on it. If we assume
an average speed of 100 KPH, thats 2,350 hours, or 141,000 minutes. If we
assume 2,500 RPM then that is 352,500,000 revolutions. In all of that abuse,
the only thing that has been changed in the engine is the head gasket.

I'm not trying to start a "mines better than yours" thread here. I am trying
to show that a DIY EFI project must be very reliable, or it will be a constant
problem in a daily driver. (And even worse problems in a boat or a plane.)

Mike
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  8 19:39:08 1996
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Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 12:24:55 -0700 (MST)
From: Corey Cole <colec@pr.erau.edu>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Encoder
In-Reply-To: <Pine.OSF.3.91.960308100315.16033C-100000@fly.HiWAAY.net>
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On Fri, 8 Mar 1996, Kenneth C. King wrote:

> On Thu, 7 Mar 1996, dn wrote:
> > better off just buying an encoder.  Newark has 100 ppr units that look like 
> > a pot for around $35, rated for 10,000,000 revolutions.
> greetings:
>   help me with the math...  10M revolutions at highway speed (2500 rpm) will
> be used up in 4000 min. (4000m * 2500r/m = 10Mrev)  that's about 66 hour, or
> about 5 days (straight), which at 60 mph is about 4000 miles.  did i do this
> correctly?  if so, i have a newfound respect for the mtbf of most engines!
> 
> later,
> kc

Actually, wouldn't it be 8000 miles since the distributor runs at half 
engine speed?  Still not a good number, but we might as well get the math 
right.

 Corey Cole					colec@pr.erau.edu
 '65 Skylark
"Knowledge is power...but cubic inches help."		Go #24!!!!!
 
I was drunk the day my mom got out of prison
and I went to pick her up in the rain.
But before I could get to the station in my pick up truck,
she got runned over by the darned old train...
						David Allen Coe
						Steve Goodman


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  8 22:12:58 1996
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From: Jerry Wills <jwills@ISI.EDU>
To: diy_efi
Cc: diy_efi
In-Reply-To: <9603081737.AA19363@ivan.gallium.com> (MSargent@gallium.com)
Subject: Re: Encoder (now reliability and qualified parts for diy_efi)
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>>>>> "Michael" == Michael F Sargent <MSargent@gallium.com> writes:

Michael> I'm not trying to start a "mines better than yours" thread here. I am trying
Michael> to show that a DIY EFI project must be very reliable, or it will be a constant
Michael> problem in a daily driver. (And even worse problems in a boat or a plane.)

If you believe that did-it-yourself EFI and daily driver go together without needing
TLC before your oil changes, I believe your dreaming. The factories go way beyond the
reasonable testing to get the bugs out of production cars.  We have the advantage that
many parts we will use to build 'our' systems, are already factory qualified, but the
Auto enviroment/specs are worse than the mil specs ,in many cases. I would be proud
if the system I put together, could just meet mil spec.

I have tried to turn projects (like mech T.J. FI on a lotus)into daily drivers, and
found that I was always looking over my shoulder. I save my projects for my toys,
not my basic transport.

I want EFI on my bike, that doesn't cost what the bikes worth :^)

do the aftermarket chips for EECIV-V disable the learn and recalibrate modes,
or just change the basic lookup tables? and can they extend the RPM to 10,500.

			Jerry Wills 
I'll have enough POWER when I can spin the tires at the end of the straight!
89 FJ DERSLYR,           DoD#500 KotF(Flag)       Mark Donahue, about 917's
USC/Information Sciences Institute  (USC/ISI)  SoCal (310) 822-1511 x 236
90's cowboys, ride iron horses, and punch Deer!!!
You done violated Physics, BOY!    Assume the position..... (Rider 5/92)



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   > if so, i have a newfound respect for the mtbf of most engines!

   It's truely awesome. I have Toyoto truck with 235,000 Km on it. If we assume

And the dumbest thing is when we see advertisements from GM that claim
"99% of the GM cars and truck sold in the last 4 years still start
everyday"  Even Lotus, with Lucas electronics could truthfully make
that claim.

-andy


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Date: Sat, 09 Mar 1996 09:33:23 +1000
To: diy_efi
From: Michael Fawke <fawkacs@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Re: CO sensor for Leaded ? 
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

At 09:15 AM 8/3/1996 -0500, Bryan wrote:
>Hi folks,
>
>After downloading some of the circuits for CO meters
>from the web site I was planning to make one for 
>my mini. However I saw a note (in the faq?) that 
>said that all CO sensors are for unleaded fuel only :(
>
>However you can buy exhaust gas analysers which work
>on leaded (for biggish bucks) so there must be some
>around. Any ideas ? Are there any UK available cars
>with such a thing (adverse to spending money :) )

There are two types of sensors, the 'standard' sensor for
production cars which lasts forever :)  and the wide-range
sensors which have a life of ~500 hours for unleaded and ~50
hours for leaded. I know that Bosch sells the wide 'Motorsport'
lambda sensor for ~$350 Australian.

I think there may also be a long-life sensor for leaded -
try talking to Link Electromotive in New Zealand
(link@lynx.com.nz), the sell their 'Lambda Link' meter 
($90 NZ) and also sell the sensors (~90 for unleaded and 
> $200 for leaded). 


Michael Fawke
fawkacs@ozemail.com.au


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  8 23:21:51 1996
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From: "ROCQUE Mike (MSMail)" <MRocque@shl.com>
To: DIY_EFI mail <DIY_EFI>
Subject: Fuel injector optimum location
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 16:10:58 -0700
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Hi, DIY'ers

I'm looking for some feedback on the optimal location of the injector on the 
intake system. It's a high pressure (55PSI) system on a Honda VTEC 1.8 L 
engine. It is used strictly for road racing. I'm also in the final stages of 
building a mold for a carbon fibre intake and need to know where to put the 
injector boss.

I have read contradicting reports on the location of the injectors. Is it 
true that an injector mounted above the velocity stack ie outside the intake 
system at the mouth of throttle body...also assuming it is mouted far away 
to not reduce flow...that this will produce maximum power.

I'm not concerned with emissions or mileage......however I'm concerned about 
hi pressure fuel on the atmosphere side of the system. What happens when I 
shut the throttle quickly..and get some fuel run-on. etc..?


mike......

email mrocque@shl.com 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  8 23:26:20 1996
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To: DIY_EFI
From: cal@Rt66.com (Cal Smith)
Subject: EFI for MR2
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Dear DIY netter's,
        I am trying to solve a couple of problems and I think I am in the
right place--I need to know if my thoughts are correct however, so that I
won't bomb the list with inappropriate drivel. It seems to me from the
DIY_EFI website that the majority of the effort of this list is steered
into creating functional EFI/ECU systems from component digital parts, etc.
        My needs are functional fuel, ignition, turbocharger, and
tire-traction management. I don't care whether I buy or build the control
systems. To me the end result is a functional, well-performing automobile;
not the building of a custom ECU system. If a manufacturer can deliver what
I need at a fair price, I will pay for their product.
        My specific needs are an EFI system that I can control either
through a custom controller-unit (ala SDS) or via PC laptop (If the PC is
the solution, is the software included? If not, how much extra is SW?). I
need to be able to control boost levels up to 3-bar and ignition with boost
& rpm-dependent advance/retard. Most importantly with respect to ignition,
I need to be able to have the staggered twin-plug timing which is so
critical to the low-rpm operation of a Mazda rotaty (Wankel) engine. FWIW,
I would also operate the system closed-loop at part-throttle.
        The engine is the 3-rotor, 2-litre variant of the wankel, so it
will have six spark-plugs and six (staged) fuel-injectors. I merely need
the ignition to trigger the proper spark--the amplification, coil, and
spark-shaping will be handled separately.
        As for turbo control, I want to control pneumatic wastegate
actuation via a solenoid which diverts actuation air away from the
wastegate at low boost levels. Ideally the ECU would control the turbo to
provide constant mass-flow through the engine regardless of rpm
(yeah-right...anyway that's the goal...).
        As for traction-control, I want to control the wastegate actuator
and the fuel-injectors to lower boost and/or cut out fuel from random
cylinders entirely when the ABS signal from the front and rear wheels
indicates greater than 15% slip of the rear wheels.
        Any advice you can give is greatly appreciated. If you know of an
off-the-shelf system that meets my needs, please suggest it. Likewise, if
you know of mods to existing units which could make these things happen,
please drop a line. I just subscribed to the list and I hope my desires are
in-line with the charter of this organization.

Thanks,

Cal Smith
cal@cal-tech.com



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar  8 23:37:24 1996
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Subject: Re: Encoder
To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 96 16:19:26 MDT
From: dn <dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
In-Reply-To: <Pine.SOL.3.91.960308122348.4907A-100000@moon.pr.erau.edu>; from "Corey Cole" at Mar 8, 96 12:24 pm
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Everybody has an opinion on this one:

> On Fri, 8 Mar 1996, Kenneth C. King wrote:
> 
> > On Thu, 7 Mar 1996, dn wrote:
> > > better off just buying an encoder.  Newark has 100 ppr units that look like 
> > > a pot for around $35, rated for 10,000,000 revolutions.

> > greetings:
> >   help me with the math...  10M revolutions at highway speed (2500 rpm) will
> > be used up in 4000 min. (4000m * 2500r/m = 10Mrev)  that's about 66 hour, or
> > about 5 days (straight), which at 60 mph is about 4000 miles.  did i do this
> > correctly?  if so, i have a newfound respect for the mtbf of most engines!

> Actually, wouldn't it be 8000 miles since the distributor runs at half 
> engine speed?  Still not a good number, but we might as well get the math 
> right.
> 
>  Corey Cole					colec@pr.erau.edu


Whoa!  I see what they mean about the abundance of sharpness on this list!

We were referring to installing this thing on a Briggs + Stratton one 
lunger!!!   Kids, don't try this at home on your V8!!!  I realize that
this is not a useful device for a car engine, but on a B+S it would work 
long enough for Jim to run his mileage contest and then some... I figure 
at 1000 RPM it'll last 160 hours, that's damn near the useful life of a
B+S anyway.  I didn't think he'd want to spend more on the encoder than 
the engine was worth!

Shit, now I'm gonna get 2756 undeserved messages telling me what a bonehead 
I am....  Your'e right Jim, life sucks.

regards,
dn

--
---------------------------------------------------------------------
 Darrell A. Norquay              Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca     
 Datalog Technology Inc.         Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell
 Calgary, Alberta, Canada        Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220            
                                 Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872            
    @ +                                                                
     <                                                         
    __/    "Absolutum Obsoletum" - If it works, it's obsolete    
 --------------------------------------------------------------------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Mar  9 04:51:37 1996
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Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 23:40:06 -0500
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Info on Code or EPROM for 93 16V Eclipse
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Anyone know where I can get a chip for a 93 16 valve Eclipse? Or possibly
where I can get the source code, and possibly any other mods I can make to
the stock EFI: Thanks in advance!

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Mar  9 04:54:22 1996
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From: arthurok@ix.netcom.com (ARTHUR OKUN )
Subject: Re: Encoder
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that little encoder is a digital pot the sort of thing you would turn 
with your fingers in that sort of application it'll last for many years

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Mar  9 13:42:58 1996
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Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 14:28:06 +0100
From: matny@isy.liu.se (Mattias Nyberg)
Message-Id: <199603091328.OAA03212@duett.isy.liu.se>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: volumetric efficiency
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Measuring the real air flow is not easy. The air flow
meter is sensitive to swirl turbulent flow. Also the
flow in an engine is pulsating. To measure corectly, the
air flow meter must have laminar, steady flow, which
is never the case in an engine. To overcome the proplem
the air flow meter has to be calibrated in the position 
where it is going to be used.

For example, in our lab we have a hot film air mass flow 
meter, which was sent away for calibration ($150). After the
calibration we mounted the MAF in our lab and it measured
the air mass flow with an error of about 25%. We concluded
this when we got an volumetric efficiency of 1.1 !

Mattias Nyberg

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Mar  9 18:11:45 1996
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Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 13:05:23 -0500
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Fuel injector optimum location
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Mike-

Placement of the fuel injector always seems to generate a lot of
"discussion".  Unfortunately, there isn't always an easy answer, even in
similar conditions.  As an example, I'd like to point out the difference in
injector location on two Indy car engines.  The Ford-Cosworth variety places
the injector low in the port, just above the inlet valve.  This should enable
more precise distribution between cylinders, though at some loss in  fuel
evaporation due to the slightly shorter travel.  The Mercedes Benz-Ilmor (my
job, BTW) places the injectors high above the trumpets.  This gives slightly
more time for fuel vaporization, but gives slightly less control over where
the fuel ends up.

In the end, it alls seems to be a toss-up for WOT running.  If you run into
problems with fuel distribution, moving the injectors downstream tends to
help.  If you want to try for a *minor* decrease in fuel consumption, move
the injector upstream.  At low rpms, placing the injector near the inlet
valve can still give good fuel vaporization by timing the fuel delivery to
strike the valve when closed.  At WOT, pulse width and duty cycle conspire to
reduce the usefuleness of worrying about when the injector opens.

I wish there was a pre-packaged answer to your question.  It would make life
easier for a lot of us.  As all the above tends to lead toward the dreaded
cut-and-try method of development, could you consider molding you intake
system with two injector locations?  The unused locations could be plugged.
 This would give you the opportunity to try different locations without
starting over.  Good luck, and let us know how it goes.

                                                  Charlie Harris

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Mar  9 18:26:24 1996
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Date: Sat, 09 Mar 1996 11:18:32 -0700
To: diy_efi
From: Land Shark <lndshrk@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: Info on Code or EPROM for 93 16V Eclipse
Cc: Mitsu16v@aol.com
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At 23:40 3/8/96 -0500, you wrote:
>Anyone know where I can get a chip for a 93 16 valve Eclipse? Or possibly
>where I can get the source code, and possibly any other mods I can make to
>the stock EFI: Thanks in advance!

 Well, how about starting by reading the STOCK EPROM to a file, and telling
 me what the processor is (or looks like) and the xtal speed ...

 You gotta start somewhere :)

 Jim C.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Mar  9 19:41:00 1996
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Subject: RE: Encoder
To: diy_efi
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 96 12:22:23 MDT
From: dn <dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
In-Reply-To: <31400740@axonet.com.au>; from "Andrew Dalgleish" at Mar 8, 96 8:06 pm
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Andrew Dalgleish wrote:

> Photo reduction isn't that expensive. I've done it by taking a shot with   
> a 120 camera and using the negative. Most wedding photographers could do   
> it for you, probably for a few beers.

You can't just use ordinary film for this type of work.  It's way too grainy
and imprecise for precision photo reduction.  The film must be an ultra slow
very high contrast film, used to be used a lot for printed circuit board
artwork and photolithography.  Also, to get precise reduction of the artwork,
a very expensive and accurate bellows type camera with precision dolly is 
necessary.  You need exactly X:1 reduction if the finished product is going 
to have the exact line widths and precise, sharp edges you need for an 
encoder.  Just not the type of stuff Weddings'R'Us is going to have lying 
around.
 
> I've also seen a sticky metalic (so it doesn't stretch) tape with   
> light/dark bands on it. You just wrap this around a shaft a few times   
> until the stripes line up.

This would be ok for low res (a few pulses per revolution), but it would
be nearly impossible to get it synched up exactly with the camshaft position,
which you'd need for an engine controller.

> That's less than 28 hours at 6000 rpm. Are you sure there isn't another   
> 1000 in there?

When was the last time you saw a Briggs + Stratton doing 6000 RPM?  

> Sounds a *lot* better than using separate led/phototransistor.

Still doesn't beat someone else doing all the hard stuff, + you just go down
to your local supplier and pick one up.  The pickup is the easy part, the
optical disk is the black art...

regards
dn


--
---------------------------------------------------------------------
 Darrell A. Norquay              Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca     
 Datalog Technology Inc.         Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell
 Calgary, Alberta, Canada        Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220            
                                 Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872            
    @ +                                                                
     <                                                         
    __/    "Absolutum Obsoletum" - If it works, it's obsolete    
 --------------------------------------------------------------------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Mar  9 23:39:01 1996
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Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 17:28:39 -0600 (CST)
From: Ryan A Erickson <eric0019@gold.tc.umn.edu>
To: diy_efi
cc: DIY_EFI <DIY_EFI>
Subject: Re: Copy of: CD Ignition SMPS?
In-Reply-To: <960222004602_100517.2176_JHB88-1@CompuServe.COM>
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On 21 Feb 1996, George J. Murdoch wrote:

> From:	George J. Murdoch, 100517,2176
> TO:	DIY_EFI, INTERNET:coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> DATE:	22/02/96 12:45
> 
> RE:	Copy of: CD Ignition SMPS?
> 
> I am interested in building CD ignition for driving 1 H.T. coil per cylinder
> using small coils similar to that used on the SAAB 9000 DI 16V engine
> I would be interested to know if anyone has any info on building a switch mode
> P.S. for the above and any comments on CD ignition in general .
> 
> Thanks 
> 
> George. 
> 
> 	
> 
> 
Go to your local Saab dealer and ask for the Saab Trionic ignition 
management manual.  I bought it about 2 years ago for some research I did 
for Honeywell on OBDII.  It was $50 US at that time.  I don't remember 
the exact name of the manual so you'll need a helpful tech person.  It is 
written for Saab technicians.

later,
Ryan

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Mar 10 02:22:28 1996
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Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 21:12:22 -0500
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: CO sensor for Leaded ? 
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Measure your exhaust gas temp...

See ya,

Mike

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Mar 10 06:38:07 1996
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From: arthurok@ix.netcom.com (ARTHUR OKUN )
Subject: Re: CO sensor for Leaded ? 
To: diy_efi
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You wrote: 
>
>Measure your exhaust gas temp...
>
>See ya,
>
>Mike
>
i dont think it's an equilivent  measurement;  .
egt s are common on light aircraft for setting mixture  but they dont 
have to pass emmission tests"yet"   ie   peak egt- 25 to 50 deg rich 
for power  lean to peak  for economy  thats what my instructor told me
and  never lean below 3000 ft or at maximum power only at cruise.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Mar 10 13:16:26 1996
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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 08:10:34 -0500
From: Bill Lewis <wrl@access.digex.net>
Organization: WRLWind Software
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>> That's less than 28 hours at 6000 rpm. Are you sure there isn't
>> another 1000 in there?

> When was the last time you saw a Briggs + Stratton doing 6000 RPM?

Modified Briggs and Stratton engines used for go-kart racing spin well 
over 5000.

Bill

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Mar 10 15:02:27 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: Jim Zurlo <zurlo@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: volumetric efficiency equations
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As mentioned by the guy from Ford, if you really want to accurately calculate
volumetric efficiency then you must use a sophisticated program such as Ford's
MANDY (can you send me a copy of that? :-)).  However the book by Taylor &
Taylor from MIT Press does have some equations that indicate how various
changes effect volumetric efficiency.  An example is the equation that shows
how volumetric efficiency is affected by the ratio of Intake to Exhaust
manifold pressure.  For some applications that level of sophistication is 
sufficient.

Jim Zurlo
zurlo@execpc.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Mar 10 15:23:41 1996
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From: JC_ZHOLIDAY@SEOVEC.OHIO.GOV
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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 10:19:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: UEGO sensor
To: DIY_EFI
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I'm currently doing some research for a port fuel injection system that I 
want to build.  I'm wanting it to be able to measure the true a/f ratio 
or at least as close as possible to it. What I'm needing is some 
information on interfacing with UEGO sensors. Also, I've seen a few 
posting and articles refering to SAE papers or journals, how can I get a 
hold of these?

Ezekiel Holliday
JC_ZHOLIDAY@SEOVEC.OHIO.GOV

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Mar 10 16:36:15 1996
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From: Grant Beattie <grantb@nait.ab.ca>
Subject: RE: Encoder
To: diy_efi
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On Sat, 9 Mar 1996, dn wrote:

> When was the last time you saw a Briggs + Stratton doing 6000 RPM?  

Last race!  My B&S does over 6000 every lap (a go-kart race).

GB

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Mar 10 17:07:40 1996
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From: "Gregory Chan" <gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca>
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To: diy_efi
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 12:19:03 +0000
Subject: Re: Toyota ECU mods
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Hi all,
         I'm new on this list and am in search of any information 
which may give me an insight to how I can modify the ECU on 
an 85 Corolla GTS. I have already performed most of the external
mods such as airflow meter, EGR valve, temp sensor pot and am 
currently looking into getting larger injectors. The stock Toyota 
ECU does not have numbers which I can understand (i.e. by
checking in an ECG replacement guide) or a removable EPROM.
Does anyone know of any mods to this ECU ( I have a spare one)
or can put me on to a source of information?

Thanks in advance.

gchan@compserv.senecac.on.ca

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Mar 10 17:09:36 1996
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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 10:08:06 -0700
To: diy_efi
From: Land Shark <lndshrk@xmission.com>
Subject: Re: volumetric efficiency equations
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At 08:51 3/10/96 -0600, you wrote:
>As mentioned by the guy from Ford, if you really want to accurately calculate
>volumetric efficiency then you must use a sophisticated program such as Ford's
>MANDY (can you send me a copy of that? :-)). 

 Uhh .. what he said ;)

>However the book by Taylor &
>Taylor from MIT Press does have some equations that indicate how various
>changes effect volumetric efficiency.  An example is the equation that shows
>how volumetric efficiency is affected by the ratio of Intake to Exhaust
>manifold pressure.  For some applications that level of sophistication is 
>sufficient.

 Could you give me a cite for said book, and also whoudl you be kind enough
 to summarize (or just dump) that formula ... I'm VERY curious as to the 
 effect of Exhaust backpressure on Ve ...

 Jim (about to supercharge an M3) Conforti



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Mar 10 23:10:16 1996
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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 23:51:53 -0100
To: diy_efi
From: jsturs@bart.nl (Jim Sturcbecher)
Subject: EGT for mixture setting?
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Could somebody please explain the relationship between EGT and mixture
in a practical sense for tuning purposes, i.e. how would you actually
go about setting fuel curves based on EGT readings?

Later,

Jim Sturcbecher
jsturs@bart.nl


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar 11 00:44:20 1996
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Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 19:38:00 -0700
To: diy_efi
From: dhe1@cornell.edu (Dan Elsberg)
Subject: Al u-bends
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

We got tired of the high prices and low availability of Aluminum u-bends so
we made a mandril bender.  It was a _lot_ of work.  (about a week of
machining and then another couple of days playing around with the
technique.)  Anyway if anyone needs 1-3/8"x0.058 we may be able to work
something out that would be a lot cheaper than the estimates we got from
various other sources (one wanted $275 to bend 6 semi-circles (180 degrees)
including the labor and material).  E-mail me directly if you want to talk
about it.

If anyone wants a description of the tool we made e-mail me about that too.

--dan

--
Dan Elsberg                                                  (607) 272-1574
Cornell University, Engineering Physics                    dhe1@cornell.edu



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar 11 03:01:43 1996
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 13:54:49 +1100 (EDT)
From: Bruno! <u933234@student.canberra.edu.au>
To: diy_efi
Subject: EFI without a lookup table
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Hi everyone,

Is it possible to have an efi computer control the engine entirely in 
closed loop? I'd like to design a ecu which does not rely on having to be 
dyno-tuned, or other ways where the engine has to run at different loads, 
speeds, etc.

The rationale behind this is I want to be able to design the computer, 
plug it in, and control the engine from day one. I understand that there 
are more things to consider, what they are exactly are slowly coming to me.

For a start, I was thinking of using a MAP, TPS, and a crank angle sensor 
(for RPM) and intake air temperature for airflow metering, and an O2 sensor 
for mixture. 

When using a hall effect sensor, what is the material that the metal vane 
that passes through the gap made of? Iron or aluminium?

Any thoughts or suggestions would be most welcome. Thanks.

	         Bruno.     ( u933234@student.canberra.edu.au )

	              "If you've gotta go, go with a smile"




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar 11 11:46:41 1996
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 06:37:56 +0500
From: ehernan3@ford.com (Edward Hernandez (R))
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: volumetric efficiency
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"We concluded this when we got an volumetric efficiency of 1.1 !"

What makes you think having a volumetric efficiency of 1.1 makes your meter incorrect? It is entirely possible to get volumetric efficiencies greater than one. What engine? What rpm? What was it designed to do?

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar 11 11:46:41 1996
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 06:44:36 +0500
From: ehernan3@ford.com (Edward Hernandez (R))
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: volumetric efficiency equations
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"...must use a sophisticated program such as Ford's MANDY (can you send me a copy of that? :-))...."

Ah, no :( but I was impressed with someone's listing of inputs into
the Engine Analyzer and that's only $80. MANDY would cost you some
number with lots of zeros behind it plus a workstation to run it on.

Ed Hernandez
Ford Motor Company
ehernan3@ed8719.pto.ford.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar 11 12:00:08 1996
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 06:51:23 +0500
From: ehernan3@ford.com (Edward Hernandez (R))
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: EGT for mixture setting?
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----- Begin Included Message -----

>From owner-diy_efi-outgoing@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu Sun Mar 10 18:32 EST 1996
X-Sender: jsturs@bart.nl
>
Could somebody please explain the relationship between EGT and mixture
in a practical sense for tuning purposes, i.e. how would you actually
go about setting fuel curves based on EGT readings?
>

A very conservative method would be to tune A/F for the same EGT at 
WOT across the rpm range. A more aggressive approach would be to tune 
A/F for a shallow but constant rising slope vs rpm. There are lots of 
ideas as to a maximum EGT which you shouldn't exceed. Some like to
use about 1800 F on dyno, but that's pretty short term. I love it when
the exhaust glows red!

Ed Hernandez
Ford Motor Company
ehernan3@ed8719.pto.ford.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar 11 14:33:30 1996
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>  X-Sender: dhe1@postoffice5.mail.cornell.edu
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>  Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 19:38:00 -0700
>  From: dhe1@cornell.edu (Dan Elsberg)
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>  
>  We got tired of the high prices and low availability of Aluminum u-bends so
>  we made a mandril bender.  It was a _lot_ of work.  (about a week of
>  machining and then another couple of days playing around with the
>  technique.)  Anyway if anyone needs 1-3/8"x0.058 we may be able to work
>  something out that would be a lot cheaper than the estimates we got from
>  various other sources (one wanted $275 to bend 6 semi-circles (180 degrees)
>  including the labor and material).  E-mail me directly if you want to talk
>  about it.
>  
>  If anyone wants a description of the tool we made e-mail me about that too.

I would like to get a description of the tool.
Any plans available?  I need to do some bending of some 0.75", 0.035" Wall
5052 Al tubing.

        - Matthew

>  
>  --dan
>  
>  --
>  Dan Elsberg                                                  (607) 272-1574
>  Cornell University, Engineering Physics                    dhe1@cornell.edu

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Subject: Re: EFI without a lookup table
To: diy_efi
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 10:43:00 -0500 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <Pine.SOL.3.91.960311135327.9593D-100000@student.canberra.edu.au> from "Bruno!" at Mar 11, 96 01:54:49 pm
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Bruno writes:
> Is it possible to have an efi computer control the engine entirely in 
> closed loop? I'd like to design a ecu which does not rely on having to be 
> dyno-tuned, or other ways where the engine has to run at different loads, 
> speeds, etc.

Yes. It's called an "adaptive algorithm" but it requires more CPU power than
simple table lookups.

BUT you will have to at least temporarily run open loop during warmup until
your O2 sensor is functioning (unless you want to buy a sensor with a 4 digit
price tag).

> The rationale behind this is I want to be able to design the computer, 
> plug it in, and control the engine from day one. I understand that there 
> are more things to consider, what they are exactly are slowly coming to me.

What you might also consider is if you came up with a generic map that would
at least get the vehicle started, it could then do map updates and slowly
tune itself. This is along the lines I've been thinking of.

> When using a hall effect sensor, what is the material that the metal vane 
> that passes through the gap made of? Iron or aluminium?

Has to be ferrous. So aluminum is out.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar 11 16:46:01 1996
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From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
Message-Id: <9603111618.AA21817@ivan.gallium.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: EGT for mixture setting?
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> I love it when the exhaust glows red!

Are Titanium valves geting cheaper?   :-)
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar 11 17:00:41 1996
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Subject: Re: EGT for mixture setting?
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> 
> A very conservative method would be to tune A/F for the same EGT at 
> WOT across the rpm range. A more aggressive approach would be to tune 
> A/F for a shallow but constant rising slope vs rpm. There are lots of 
> ideas as to a maximum EGT which you shouldn't exceed. Some like to
> use about 1800 F on dyno, but that's pretty short term. I love it when
> the exhaust glows red!
> 
> Ed Hernandez
> Ford Motor Company
> ehernan3@ed8719.pto.ford.com
> 
I have had a hard time getting a good relationship between absolute exhaust
temp and a/f ratio and temp limits. I have taken data on my datalogger @
100 times/sec monitoring fuel pressure, turbo boost, o2 sensor voltage
and egt. The type k t/c was located about 3" from head exhaust outlet
flange. I saw about 1650 deg F max at wot, with about 10sec @ max 8psi 
boost. I could adjust nonlinear fuel press regulator to add more fuel and
see 50 deg temp drop. O2 sensor voltage went from about .82 to about .84,
but std o2 sensors are very nonlinear here.
Does anyone have comments on how egt temps change with thermocouple 
placement and what max limits may be????. The turbo mfr suggests 1750 max
inlet temp.
As a secondary question, are there any sources from the wide range o2
sensors other than the overpriced unit from Horriba ($2500-actually made 
by NGK)???



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar 11 17:01:01 1996
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In-Reply-To: Your message of "Mon, 11 Mar 96 13:54:49 +1100."
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> Is it possible to have an efi computer control the engine entirely in 
> closed loop? I'd like to design a ecu which does not rely on having to be 
> dyno-tuned, or other ways where the engine has to run at different loads, 
> speeds, etc.

That would depend on what the variable(s) you're trying to control are.
Current table-based routines are attempts at achieving desired torque, 
power, emissions, and fuel consumption, plus many more less quantifiable
parameters like drivability, noise, shift quality, etc.

There is also, at least for mass-produced vehicles, to minimize cost.
That affects sensors, actuators, and computing power.  (Where is that
darn low-cost in-line torque sensor anyway?  :)  )

Add to this that engines behave very nonlinearly (just look at emissions
versus fuel/air ratio) and you have a very challenging problem.


> The rationale behind this is I want to be able to design the computer, 
> plug it in, and control the engine from day one.

Wow.  If you ever get to this point with a cost-effective design,
companies will line up to buy it.




Anthony Tsakiris

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
The opinions expressed are my own and not necessarily those of my employer.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar 11 17:01:03 1996
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From: matny@isy.liu.se (Mattias Nyberg)
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: volumetric efficiency
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> 
> "We concluded this when we got an volumetric efficiency of 1.1 !"
> 
> What makes you think having a volumetric efficiency of 1.1 makes your 
> meter incorrect? It is entirely possible to get volumetric efficiencies
> greater than one. What engine? What rpm? What was it designed to do?

The engine is a SAAB 2.3L standard production engine (fuel injection, 
no turbo, no EGR). The volumetric efficiencies close to 1.1 was obtained 
around 4000 rpm. Normally the vol. eff. should be 0.85 (see any engine
book) which makes an error of (1.1-.85)/.85=29%.

How can vol. eff. be greater than 1?

Mattias Nyberg

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar 11 17:39:45 1996
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Subject: Re: volumetric efficiency 
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> How can vol. eff. be greater than 1?

A non-boosted engine can still have a volumetric efficiency
greater than one.  A highly tuned induction system can produce
manifold pressure pulsations (at some engine speeds) which
are higher than ambient pressure and which occur when 
the intake valve is open.  Since volumetric efficiency is usually 
calculated using ambient pressure as the reference, the result 
ends up being greater than one.

It's possible, but I don't think common.


Anthony Tsakiris

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
The opinions expressed are my own and not necessarily those of my employer.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar 11 18:37:56 1996
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From: Bruce Bowling <bowling@cebaf.gov>
Subject: Re: volumetric efficiency
To: diy_efi
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 13:30:05 EST
In-Reply-To: <199603111658.RAA00447@duett.isy.liu.se>; from "Mattias Nyberg" at Mar 11, 96 5:58 pm
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~ How can vol. eff. be greater than 1?
~ 
~ Mattias Nyberg
~ 
Quoting from the superflow flow bench manual:

"Inertial Supercharging Effect:

When the intake valve starts to close, the fast moving air column 
tries to keep ramming itself into the cylinder. If the inlet
valve is closed at just the right instant, the extra charge will be trapped
in the cylinder (called inertial supercharging).  Volumetric efficiencies
up to 130 percent can be obtained......."

They then go on to define the inertia-supercharge index Z, which
is an empirical value which is a measure of the strength of the
inertia supercharge.  To compute this:

1) Find Cv = (valve flow (total) for one cylinder filling event at given test pressure)
	     ---------------------------------------------------
	     (Maximum flow possible at given test pressure)

   Cv is intake system flow rating (normalized)

2) Find average inlet valve area:

   A = Cv * (valve area in sq. inches)

3) Compute Z:

     Z=((RPM/126000)) * sqrt((CID * Inlet Length)/(A))

Z will usually be between 0.9 and 1.2 

- Bruce


--
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------
               Bruce A. Bowling
  Staff Scientist - Instrumentation and Controls
 The Continuous Electron Beam Accelerator Facility
    12000 Jefferson Ave - Newport News, VA 23602
                 (804) 249-7240
                bowling@cebaf.gov  
        http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar 11 19:38:20 1996
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Subject: Re: EGT for mixture setting?
To: diy_efi
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 14:33:00 -0500 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <Pine.PCW.3.91.960311113242.14558A-100000@frankparker.chem.lsa.umich.edu> from "Frank Parker" at Mar 11, 96 11:52:52 am
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> I have had a hard time getting a good relationship between absolute exhaust
> temp and a/f ratio and temp limits. I have taken data on my datalogger @
> 100 times/sec monitoring fuel pressure, turbo boost, o2 sensor voltage
> and egt. The type k t/c was located about 3" from head exhaust outlet
> flange. I saw about 1650 deg F max at wot, with about 10sec @ max 8psi 
> boost. I could adjust nonlinear fuel press regulator to add more fuel and
> see 50 deg temp drop. O2 sensor voltage went from about .82 to about .84,
> but std o2 sensors are very nonlinear here.
> Does anyone have comments on how egt temps change with thermocouple 
> placement and what max limits may be????. The turbo mfr suggests 1750 max
> inlet temp.

In my opinion, EGT's aren't really very useful in tuning AFR.  You will
spend more time and money doing this, and have more failures (most likely)
than if you just plunked down the initial investment in the Horiba UEGO unit.

The main advantage of EGT's is checking fuel distribution.

> As a secondary question, are there any sources from the wide range o2
> sensors other than the overpriced unit from Horriba ($2500-actually made 
> by NGK)???

You may want to look into Bosch.  Last I heard they were coming out with
some type of a comparable unit, with UEGO sensors for $250 ea., instead
of the $900 Horiba sensors.



STeve

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Subject: Re: volumetric efficiency equations
To: diy_efi
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 14:29:45 -0500 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <199603101707.KAA16587@xmission.xmission.com> from "Land Shark" at Mar 10, 96 10:08:06 am
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> >However the book by Taylor &
> >Taylor from MIT Press does have some equations that indicate how various
> >changes effect volumetric efficiency.  An example is the equation that shows
> >how volumetric efficiency is affected by the ratio of Intake to Exhaust
> >manifold pressure.  For some applications that level of sophistication is 
> >sufficient.
> 
>  Could you give me a cite for said book, and also whoudl you be kind enough
>  to summarize (or just dump) that formula ... I'm VERY curious as to the 
>  effect of Exhaust backpressure on Ve ...
> 

The book is called _The internal combustion engine in theory and practice_
It's by Charles Fayette Taylor, and the one you want for these formulas
is Volume 1.

There are several formulas for volumetric efficiency he gives.

The one that includes the pressure ratio is the following:

Ev = 0.285 + (r - Pe/Pi)/(1.4*(r - 1))

Don't expect super accurate answers from this formula, because he
'derived' it from experimental results for engines with small
valve overlap and pressure ratios greater than 0.5
I would suggest reading the book.  And if your engine is similar
to what he tested, then your results will be better.   He also
includes graphs of Ev and every possible engine parameter.

Volumetric efficiency defined, for an ideal fuel-air cycle is:

Ev = Mi/(V1 - V2)pi

where:

Mi is the mass of fresh mixture supplied and pi is the density of
this mixture at the pressure and temp.   V1-V2 is the total displacement
of the engine.


Evolved into formulas you can use directly for engines:

Ev = 2*mass flow rate of fresh mixture / (rpm * total displacement * inlet dens)


You can also express this formula on the basis of dry air, and
make it even more user friendly:


Ev = 4*mass fl rate of dry air/(dens air * total piston area * mean piston spd)

Where mean piston speed = 2 * stroke * rpm

This is easier to use because you can calculate the density of dry air
with good accuracy for your given temp/press.  And the only thing you
need is the mass flow rate of the dry air.

To the guy who doesn't understand how you can get an Ev over 1,
consider a forced induction situation, or a tuned supercharge effect
from the intake design.   Also consider that the strict definition
of Ev only accounts for the mass of the mixture in the displacement
volume -NOT including the combution chamber volume. 


Even so, unless you have an extremely large combustion chamber, or
a forced induction, you should not rule out numerical inaccuracy in
your calculations.   But for the record books, you can have volumetric
efficiencies over 1.



Steve 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar 11 23:21:55 1996
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From: orlin steven jared <orlin-s@rclsgi>
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Message-Id: <199603112307.SAA10484@rcltel.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: volumetric efficiency
To: diy_efi
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 18:07:24 -0500 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <199603111830.NAA11296@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu> from "Bruce Bowling" at Mar 11, 96 01:30:05 pm
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> "Inertial Supercharging Effect:
> 
> When the intake valve starts to close, the fast moving air column 
> tries to keep ramming itself into the cylinder. If the inlet
> valve is closed at just the right instant, the extra charge will be trapped
> in the cylinder (called inertial supercharging).  Volumetric efficiencies
> up to 130 percent can be obtained......."

I think this is mentioned in the ASME paper "design of a tuned intake",
probably where superflow got it from ;-)

> They then go on to define the inertia-supercharge index Z, which
> is an empirical value which is a measure of the strength of the
> inertia supercharge.  To compute this:
> 3) Compute Z:
> 
>      Z=((RPM/126000)) * sqrt((CID * Inlet Length)/(A))
> 
> Z will usually be between 0.9 and 1.2 
> 


This looks like a 'makeshift' Inlet Mach Index formula.  (I could
be wrong).

The Inlet mach index is the ratio of the typical inlet velocity
to the inlet sonic velocity.

Z = ((b/D)^2 )* s /(Ci*a)

pg 173 of Taylor's book.

Where b = cylinder bore
D = inlet valve diameter
s = mean piston speed = 2 X rpm X stroke
Ci = mean inlet flow coefficient
a = local velocity of sound


a can be calculated by multiplying a constant by the square root
of the temperature (absolute).

Ci is the hanger here.  It correlates to the ratio of the lift/inlet
valve diameter.   But my guess is that for whatever you need to
come up with a mach index for, an approximation is good enough ;)

There are graphs for Ci in the book too.

The reason why I have doubts that maybe this isn't the same
"Z" factor as Bruce posted is because you don't want a value
of over .6 for the inlet mach index.  volumetric efficiency starts
to drop off fast after that. I didn't hack through the math/units
to compare the two, but they look similar. 



Steve                          


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar 11 23:22:01 1996
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 10:20:43 +1000
To: diy_efi
From: Michael Fawke <fawkacs@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Re: EGT for mixture setting?
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At 11:52 AM 11/3/1996 -0500, you wrote:

>As a secondary question, are there any sources from the wide range o2
>sensors other than the overpriced unit from Horriba ($2500-actually made 
>by NGK)???
>
Bosch makes a 'motorsport' wide range lambda probe. About $350 Australian.
But they only have a life of about 500 hours for unleaded and 50 hours for
leaded. 
Michael Fawke
fawkacs@ozemail.com.au


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar 12 01:33:00 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: "George M. Dailey" <gmd@tecinfo.com>
Subject: DIY FI facts
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At 02:01 PM 3/8/96 -0800, Jerry Wills  wrote:

>If you believe that did-it-yourself EFI and daily driver go together
without needing
>TLC before your oil changes, I believe your dreaming. The factories go way
beyond the
>reasonable testing to get the bugs out of production cars.  We have the
advantage that
>many parts we will use to build 'our' systems, are already factory
qualified, but the
>Auto enviroment/specs are worse than the mil specs ,in many cases. I would
be proud
>if the system I put together, could just meet mil spec.
>
>I have tried to turn projects (like mech T.J. FI on a lotus)into daily
drivers, and
>found that I was always looking over my shoulder. 
>			Jerry Wills 
============================================================================
==========
I almost agree with you 100% on this one Jerry. 
But...

I've been driving an up-graded '58 Chevy truck for ten years. I depend on it
for everyday transportation (170 +miles/week) and she seldom lets me down
(can't say that about some of the women in my life :). The only thing that's
original is a few body parts. The main thing that I've learned about
modifying auto machinery (FI, brakes, body, chassis, or what ever), is to
know at what level to start D_I_Y_ing at.  Have you ever herd of a "do it
your self" person try to cast their own engine block or smelt their own
alloys? My philosophy is, "when in question, see what the OEM uses and adapt
it to your application". In most cases, not all, the OEM knows best. They've
got better toys and have been playing with them much longer than most of us
have. Occasionally, we (D_Y_I_ers) can slip up on something original.

I don't know about you guys, but I do it strictly for fun.  Keep the D_I_Y
mentality alive! BTW, this is comming from a guy who is building a car...
from scratch :-()

GMD



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar 12 01:33:00 1996
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 20:19:13 -0500
Message-Id: <199603120119.UAA13961@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
From: Andrew Dalgleish <andrewd@axonet.com.au>
Subject: RE: EFI without a lookup table
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On Monday, 11 March 1996 11:57, owner-diy_efi-outgoing wrote:
>
> > Is it possible to have an efi computer control the engine entirely in   

> > closed loop? I'd like to design a ecu which does not rely on having   
to be
> > dyno-tuned, or other ways where the engine has to run at different   
loads,
> > speeds, etc.
>
> That would depend on what the variable(s) you're trying to control are.
> Current table-based routines are attempts at achieving desired torque,
> power, emissions, and fuel consumption, plus many more less   
quantifiable
> parameters like drivability, noise, shift quality, etc.
>
> There is also, at least for mass-produced vehicles, to minimize cost.
> That affects sensors, actuators, and computing power.  (Where is that
> darn low-cost in-line torque sensor anyway?  :)  )

How about a strain gauge on the tail-shaft?
Calibrating it might be a bear...

>
> Add to this that engines behave very nonlinearly (just look at   
emissions
> versus fuel/air ratio) and you have a very challenging problem.
>
>
> > The rationale behind this is I want to be able to design the   
computer,
> > plug it in, and control the engine from day one.
>
> Wow.  If you ever get to this point with a cost-effective design,
> companies will line up to buy it.
>
>
>
>
> Anthony Tsakiris
>
>   
 --------------------------------------------------------------------------  
 -
> The opinions expressed are my own and not necessarily those of my   
employer.
>

Regards,
Andrew Dalgleish
Senior Software Engineer
Axon Research, Pty Ltd
6 Wallace Ave,
Toorak, VIC
3142
AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-3-9826-5538
Fax +61-3-9824-0083

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar 12 01:50:17 1996
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 20:26:59 -0800
To: diy_efi
From: William Sarkozy <mymove@serv01.net-link.net>
Subject: Re: Al u-bends
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At 07:38 PM 3/10/96 -0700, you wrote:
>We got tired of the high prices and low availability of Aluminum u-bends so
>we made a mandril bender.  It was a _lot_ of work.  (about a week of
>machining and then another couple of days playing around with the
>technique.)  Anyway if anyone needs 1-3/8"x0.058 we may be able to work
>something out that would be a lot cheaper than the estimates we got from
>various other sources (one wanted $275 to bend 6 semi-circles (180 degrees)
>including the labor and material).  E-mail me directly if you want to talk
>about it.
>
>If anyone wants a description of the tool we made e-mail me about that too.
>
>--dan
>
>--
>Dan Elsberg                                                  (607) 272-1574
>Cornell University, Engineering Physics                    dhe1@cornell.edu
>
>
>
I'm very interested.  Is the 1-3/8" diameter the only size you do?

                                                                            
        Bill


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar 12 03:45:29 1996
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Message-ID: <01BB0F9A.48730BA0@CS-ANNEX-1-01.CS.CORNELL.EDU>
From: Jody Shapiro <jshapiro@CS.Cornell.EDU>
To: "'diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi>
Cc: "'F-Body List'" <f-body@cisco.com>
Subject: RE: EFI without a lookup table
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 22:29:46 -0500
Encoding: 34 TEXT, 62 UUENCODE
X-MS-Attachment: WINMAIL.DAT 0 00-00-1980 00:00
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I'm cross-posting this to both the DIY_EFI list and the F-Body list because 
this topic has come up and I haven't seen anyone mention the item belower 
which looks interesting.

>----------
>From: 	Andrew Dalgleish[SMTP:andrewd@axonet.com.au]
>Sent: 	Monday, March 11, 1996 8:19 PM
>To: 	diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu; jshapiro@cs.cornell.edu
>Subject: 	RE: EFI without a lookup table
>
>
>On Monday, 11 March 1996 11:57, owner-diy_efi-outgoing wrote:
>> There is also, at least for mass-produced vehicles, to minimize cost.
>> That affects sensors, actuators, and computing power.  (Where is that
>> darn low-cost in-line torque sensor anyway?  :)  )
>> Anthony Tsakiris
>
>How about a strain gauge on the tail-shaft?
>Calibrating it might be a bear...
>
>Andrew Dalgleish

On page 54 of the Feb 96 issue of Chevy High Performance under the article 
"50 Hot New Parts" which talks about items from the SEMA show (Specialty 
Equipment Manufacturers Assocation):

"Ever wondered what your engine's horsepower is at operating conditions? 
 DYNOmite ((603)329-5645) has an onboard dyno that allows monitoring and 
recording of the horsepower at the driveshaft while the car is on the road. 
 The key is an output-shaft-mounted strain gauge."

-Jody
---
http://www.cs.cornell.edu/Info/People/jshapiro/jshapiro.htm

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MD6=H'Q)*@1\P_0K +H"@>Z]\OW3?@.^!__^##3$>3I\:'(@?&AM4FHHPJ7I1
M-317$&8>)&4P\*\Z<00!;/&-(4,<\'8>P/Y(?\$ZX 207;$#@5Z0(. _'@`D
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DNP% ``@PX&_AVL(/NP$>`#T``0````4```!213H@`````,<9
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end


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar 12 05:01:57 1996
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Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 23:53:45 -0500
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From: William Sarkozy <mymove@serv01.net-link.net>
Subject: Help on 2.3 litre turbo motor
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Hello group,

My Thunderbird turbo-coupe starts at 35 psi fuel pressure and then jumps
abruptly to about 85-90 psi after about 5 seconds of running.  I presume
this is abnormal since the manual says 30-45 psi at idle.  Has anyone
witnessed a similar problem or have any suggestions?  I presume its a
problem with the pressure regulator mounted on the fuel rail, but could it
be (I don't know how) a clogged return line to the tank?  

Any suggestions or insights would be greatly appreciated.   Thanks......


                                                                            
      Bill


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar 12 06:00:15 1996
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Long returns!!!
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To those people that cut and paste two paragraphs from a previous listing,
just to add one or two sentences, please quit.

Thanks in advance!!

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar 12 06:24:36 1996
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Subject: Re: EGT for mixture setting
To: diy_efi
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 22:03:54 MDT
From: Darrell Norquay <dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
In-Reply-To: <199603111150.AA20953@internet-mail.ford.com>; from "Edward Hernandez (R)" at Mar 11, 96 6:51 am
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Ed Hernandez wrote:

> A very conservative method would be to tune A/F for the same EGT at 
> WOT across the rpm range. A more aggressive approach would be to tune 
> A/F for a shallow but constant rising slope vs rpm. There are lots of 
> ideas as to a maximum EGT which you shouldn't exceed. Some like to
> use about 1800 F on dyno, but that's pretty short term. I love it when
> the exhaust glows red!

Does the EGT sensor have to be close to the head?  The reason I ask is 
that I have headers, and the only practical place to mount EGT's would be
in the collectors.  I assume that the temperatures would be somewhat 
reduced, but still proportional(?)

How does the mixture affect EGT?  Do lean mixtures produce lower or higher 
temps than rich ones?  
 
Can you determine if you are at stoich with this method (with any accuracy)?
Is there a linear relationship between EGT and AFR or is it a complex 
function?

Is this a practical/effective/reliable way to adjust mixture?  Is it only 
useful at WOT, or does it maintain some validity at all throttle settings?

What other factors affect EGT?

regards
dn

--
---------------------------------------------------------------------
 Darrell A. Norquay              Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca     
 Datalog Technology Inc.         Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell
 Calgary, Alberta, Canada        Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220            
                                 Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872            
    @ +                                                                
     <                                                         
    __/    "Absolutum Obsoletum" - If it works, it's obsolete    
 --------------------------------------------------------------------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar 12 07:32:49 1996
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From: "Th.M.Boehm" <THOMAS5@kihmaskin.kih.no>
To: DIY_EFI
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 08:28:40 MET-1
Subject: Suzuki Swift GTi Twincam 1.3 (87)
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I'm not into engine modification at all ,and I know this mail-list is 
a lot more hitech than I am. When that's said, I was just 
wondering if anybody has got some tips of parts (I've read about 
chiptuning!) I can easily modify or replace (Also the shops who 
supply them (I live in Europe)). If it demands special knowledge 
please tell me, or I'll probably ruin my engine.

Thomas.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar 12 07:47:12 1996
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At 05:58 PM 11/03/96 +0100, you wrote:

>
>How can vol. eff. be greater than 1?
>
>Mattias Nyberg
>

Mattias,
              most good racing engines would typically see 120% over a
limited RPM range.

                        regards,
                                        Mark Boxsell
                                        MRB Design.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar 12 13:29:02 1996
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Darrell Norquay wrote:

> How does the mixture affect EGT?  Do lean mixtures produce lower or higher 
> temps than rich ones?  
 
> Can you determine if you are at stoich with this method (with any accuracy)?
> Is there a linear relationship between EGT and AFR or is it a complex 
> function?

> Is this a practical/effective/reliable way to adjust mixture?  Is it only 
> useful at WOT, or does it maintain some validity at all throttle settings?

The function beteen A/F mixture and EGT is non-linear (somewhat parabolic)
with a peak that is NOT coincident with stoich.  As you richen the mixture,
the EGT goes down (which is why air cooled engines, particularly aircraft
engines) are run very rich,  As you lean past the peak, the EGT drops slightly
(along with power)  Obviously, there are other factors in play, and since the
EGT also varies with power level using it as a substitute for a lambda sensor
is a challenge in non-linear systems design. 

Check out _Combustion Engine Processes_ by L. Licty, published by McGraw-Hill.  
It's an older academic text on the subject, but has a plot on this function.

Cliff Ducharme
                                 /
A wing an a prayer...   _______[*]_______
                             b /   d


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar 12 13:30:24 1996
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From: "Rolf Ask Clausen" <rac@ingenioeren.dk>
Organization:  Ingenioeren
To: diy_efi
Date:          Tue, 12 Mar 1996 14:29:18 +100
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Subject:       Simple carb-based systems, who?
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Hi,

I've been lurking some time, and have a few really low-tech
questions:

I'm toying with my old Volvo Amazon (121, B20 engine) and has fitted
an oxygen sensor in order to look a bit on the mixture and possibly
use this data to adjust or change the carburettor setup. This works
well with a simple bar graph display.

Now to get on a bit, it seems a simple idea to use the lambda signal
to control a valve in a small extra air pipe, bypassing the carb, and
I know this has been done. The aim being to move the resulting
mixture closer to stoich, ie. a low tech system improving on what I 
have without changing the whole thing.

My question is: Who has done this? Are there any suppliers of some of 
this in kit form? What kind of electronics (computers?) are used?


Venlig hilsen 
(Yours)
Rolf Ask Clausen (BSc)
Redaktionschef, Ingenicren
(Managing editor, Ingenicren)

-----------------------------------------------------------
Not agreeing is my job

Phone: (+45) 31216810/3218 or (+45) 31216802 tone 3218
Fax: (+45) 31216701. Snail mail: Ingenicren, Skelbeekgade 4,
PO.box 373, 1503 Kbh. V., Denmark

Ingenioeren - Engineering Weekly - is Denmarks #1 technical
journal. Our website is at http://www.ingenioeren.dk

My homepage is at http://ing.dk/homepages/rolfclausen/

rac@ingenioeren.dk                   sig. modified mar. 12.
-----------------------------------------------------------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar 12 14:02:38 1996
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Message-Id: <199603121354.IAA12581@rclsgi18.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: EGT for mixture setting
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 08:54:20 -0500 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <9602120503.AA19010@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca> from "Darrell Norquay" at Mar 11, 96 10:03:54 pm
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> Does the EGT sensor have to be close to the head?  The reason I ask is 
> that I have headers, and the only practical place to mount EGT's would be
> in the collectors.  I assume that the temperatures would be somewhat 
> reduced, but still proportional(?)

It would be almost useless to put the EGT sensor in the collector. First,
you wouldn't be able to tell squat about mixture distribution between
cylinders.  Second, in order to get *any* correlation between mixture and
EGT temp, you'd have to check with a Horiba lambda sensor.  And that is 
assuming that such a correlation would exist and give you consistant results.

You have to use the EGT sensors about an inch or two away from the exhaust
port, for best results.  Incidentally, I don't know much about T/C's, but
I know that certain ones are rated at certain temps, so where you put the
thing would depend on what temperature range your T/C's can handle.

> How does the mixture affect EGT?  Do lean mixtures produce lower or higher 
> temps than rich ones?  

>From what I've seen, at mid RPM ranges, rich mixtures (below stoich) produce
lower temps, while leaner mixtures produce higher temps.  But this is
not set in stone.  It will depend on the operation of the particular engine
being tested.  And each relationship between mixture/EGT temp will most
likely be different.   Which brings me back to my original point (maybe someone
elses too?).  EGT's are best used for checking distribution, not mixture.

> Can you determine if you are at stoich with this method (with any accuracy)?

No.

> Is there a linear relationship between EGT and AFR or is it a complex 
> function?

It is probably complex, but as I said, could vary for each engine tested.

> Is this a practical/effective/reliable way to adjust mixture?  Is it only 
> useful at WOT, or does it maintain some validity at all throttle settings?
> 
> What other factors affect EGT?


The last time I checked, 8 thermocouples ran about $240.   The readout
box, which would give all 8 temps at once would cost about 2000-2500
to pay someone to construct.  I'm not an EE guru, but maybe there are
some people reading who could build this circuitry themselves for MUCH
less.  If so, I would think that it would be very cost effective in
checking distribution.

For fine tuning mixture, you simply need the UEGO sensor, Or some other
gas analyzer method which can give you an absolute reading of AFR.

Seat of the pants, and trial and error still work well though.


Steve

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Mar 12 21:30:25 1996
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From: wmcgonegal@rr.etc.ncr.doe.ca
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Date: Tue, 12 Mar 96 16:18:14 EST
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re[2]: EGT for mixture setting
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

My understanding is that (in general) the exhaust gas temperature is lower with
a rich mixture and raises to a point as you get leaner, then starts to drop as
you continue going lean.  This may or may not be useful in trying to determine
your AF ratio, but it is useful in determining when your pistons are about to
seize in a two stroke.  Polaris put a system on one of their production
snowmobiles this year that monitors the exhaust gas temperature while you are
at full throttle (like when racing across a lake).  If the temperature gets
dangerously high the monitor shuts down the ignition for an instant (like a rev
limiter).

Using a AFR sensor in a standard two stroke is not very practical as a mixture
of burnt and unburned gets blown out the exhaust.  I had considered using EGT
feed back in a fuel injection system for two strokes to richen up the mixture
if the temperature got to hot.  I have read about a similar technique used by
people who race two stroke motocross bikes in the desert.  When they started to
sense a lean condition, they would operate a finger controlled choke until the
engine cooled a bit in order to prevent seizures.

>The last time I checked, 8 thermocouples ran about $240.   The readout box,
>which would give all 8 temps at once would cost about 2000-2500 to pay someone
>to construct.

You could by a 486 computer and data acquisition card for less then that and end
up with something a lot more flexible for a DIYer.

Starting Line Products sells an adjustable EGT monitor called a Stutter Box for
sleds ($136US for single cylinder, $181 for twin, $227 for triple).  They also
sell reasonably priced EGT gauges starting at $51US (2") $68US (3"),and $34US
for a probe.  SLP is at
http://www.srv.net/shop/slp/slp.html
email: slp@srv.net
Royal Distributing (800-265-2970) also sells these gauges (3") $150CAN with a
probe.  Omega Engineering (800-TC-OMEGA) sells MANY different types of
thermocouple probes and gauges as well.

It is not overly difficult to construct a thermocouple conditioning circuit.
One only needs an amplifier and a cold junction compensation circuit.  You can
even do away with the compensation if your circuit is always at the same
temperature.  There are many simple, documented circuits for reading
thermocouples if you feel up to constructing one.

Will McGonegal
Mobile Sources Emissions Division
Environment Canada

wmcgonegal@rr.etc.ncr.doe.ca

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 00:46:26 1996
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From: broberg@asc.on.ca (Robert Broberg)
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Subject: Re: EGT for mixture setting
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 13:41:02 -0500
In-Reply-To: <9602120503.AA19010@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca> from "Darrell Norquay" at Mar 11, 96 11:03:54 pm
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<snip>

> How does the mixture affect EGT?  Do lean mixtures produce lower or higher 
> temps than rich ones?  

When I received my flight training in an aircraft with a manual
mixture control, I was taught to lean the mixture for cruise:
starting with "full rich", lean until the EGT reaches a peak and then
richen the mixture until the EGT drops ~50 F below peak.

The peak EGT is at some point slightly richer than stoichiometric, and
is the point of maximum power.  Some pilots recommend running somewhat
lean of peak EGT for maximum economy, ie. at stoichiometric.  The EGT
drops off rapidly when leaning past stoichiometric.  Because the
training aircraft only had one EGT probe (tied to one cylinder),
richening the mixture slightly after reaching peak EGT accounts for
cylinders that may run leaner (and hotter), and generally it's safer
to run on the cool side.

> Can you determine if you are at stoich with this method (with any accuracy)?
> Is there a linear relationship between EGT and AFR or is it a complex 
> function?

Unfortunately the EGT curve is rather flat near stoich, so it is hard
to pin point with high accuracy.  The relationship is not linear.

> Is this a practical/effective/reliable way to adjust mixture?  Is it only 
> useful at WOT, or does it maintain some validity at all throttle settings?

Piston aircraft have been using this method (manually) for years.  The
mixture adjustment is usually done at part throttle, except at high
altitude where the throttle is wide-open anyway.  "Full rich" mixture
is recommended for WOT at lower altitudes, to keep the CHT down.


Rob Broberg
broberg@asc.on.ca

AFR = air/fuel ratio
CHT = cylinder head temperature
EGT = exhaust gas temperature
stoichiometric = at chemically ideal AFR

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From: Bruno! <u933234@student.canberra.edu.au>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Re[2]: EGT for mixture setting
In-Reply-To: <9602128266.AA826676294@rr.etc.ncr.doe.ca>
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On Tue, 12 Mar 1996 wmcgonegal@rr.etc.ncr.doe.ca wrote:
> It is not overly difficult to construct a thermocouple conditioning circuit.
> One only needs an amplifier and a cold junction compensation circuit.  You can
> even do away with the compensation if your circuit is always at the same
> temperature.  

Is it practical to, put the cold junction into a lot of insulation, eg
shove it into a giant block of polystyrene foam , or in a thermos
bottle(?) and tuck it under the dash somewhere? in the extremes of heat
and cold it may help to measure the temp of the juction with a thermistor,
to compensate for the possible change in temperature. 

	         Bruno.     ( u933234@student.canberra.edu.au )

	              "If you've gotta go, go with a smile"


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From: "Brandon L. Walters" <blwalt@ecsis.ecsis.net>
To: "'diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: Re[2]: EGT mixture/Tcouples
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 19:36:12 -0600
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>The last time I checked, 8 thermocouples ran about $240.
That's for nice ones w/connectors, right?

FWIW, I like to buy the thermocouple wire on a 100' roll, from Omega or
Marlin, and make my own.  For really hot work, like heat treat furnaces,
headers, etc, it's nice to have a friend with a TIG set, then you can
(with practice) make very nice round bead junctions with type K wire.
Just give it several twists so you can burn back 'till it sticks, before it pops
back open.

If you accept more error, extension grade T-Couple wire is cheaper.

Fastening the bead under a washer or something would be cheaper than
buying a probe tip or well.

If your amplifier is in a cool place, and the exhaust is so hot, maybe you
could get by just reading the millivolts and process that.

An Alternate Source, for thermocouples, wire, and probes:
	Marlin Mfg. Corp
	12404 Triskett Rd.
	Cleveland, OH 44111
	(216)941-6200

Brandon Walters

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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 02:10:35 1996
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 13:03:52 +1000
To: diy_efi
From: Michael Fawke <fawkacs@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Re: Suzuki Swift GTi Twincam 1.3 (87)
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At 08:28 AM 12/3/1996 MET-1, you wrote:
>I'm not into engine modification at all ,and I know this mail-list is 
>a lot more hitech than I am. When that's said, I was just 
>wondering if anybody has got some tips of parts (I've read about 
>chiptuning!) I can easily modify or replace (Also the shops who 
>supply them (I live in Europe)). If it demands special knowledge 
>please tell me, or I'll probably ruin my engine.
>
>Thomas.
>
The GTI will gain absolutely _nothing_ from a chip change. In australia, 
several of the companies in the 'chipping' market have got their fingers
burnt on GTI's by claiming up to 10Kw improvements. The biggest gain found
(by independant testing) was from advancing the ignition timing 2 degrees,
and it only gave couple of Kw above 7000rpm. The GTI engine is probably the
most highly tuned (as standard) car engine you will ever find. 
Michael Fawke
fawkacs@ozemail.com.au


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 03:02:26 1996
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Subject: Re: Long returns!!!
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 96 19:35:26 MDT
From: Darrell Norquay <dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
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> To those people that cut and paste two paragraphs from a previous listing,

Or worse, don't cut and paste at all...

> just to add one or two sentences, please quit.

Hear! Hear!  I second this comment, especially directed at those who do 
not separate the reply from the body of the message.  Squinting through 3 
screenfuls of previously read messages to find the one liner is BORING!

While we're bitchin, another pet peeve of mine is regarding line length.
Please limit line length on your editors to 60-70 columns to prevent the
one word every-other-line.  Also, ensure that your editor is set to put a 
return char at the end of a line, my mail system crashes real good when it 
receives an 1824 character line.

I hope this doesn't piss anyone off, it's not meant to.  Just have a little
consideration for the shrinking bandwidth on the Internet, and our poor 
tired ol' eyes...

regards
dn

--
---------------------------------------------------------------------
 Darrell A. Norquay              Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca     
 Datalog Technology Inc.         Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell
 Calgary, Alberta, Canada        Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220            
                                 Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872            
    @ +                                                                
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    __/    "Absolutum Obsoletum" - If it works, it's obsolete    
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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 03:32:52 1996
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From: Andrew Dalgleish <andrewd@axonet.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi'" <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: Re[2]: EGT for mixture setting
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 96 14:21:00 S
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On Wednesday, 13 March 1996 12:14, owner-diy_efi-outgoing wrote:
> On Tue, 12 Mar 1996 wmcgonegal@rr.etc.ncr.doe.ca wrote:
> > It is not overly difficult to construct a thermocouple conditioning   
circuit.
> > One only needs an amplifier and a cold junction compensation circuit.   
 You
> can
> > even do away with the compensation if your circuit is always at the   
same
> > temperature.
>
> Is it practical to, put the cold junction into a lot of insulation, eg
> shove it into a giant block of polystyrene foam , or in a thermos
> bottle(?) and tuck it under the dash somewhere? in the extremes of heat
> and cold it may help to measure the temp of the juction with a   
thermistor,
> to compensate for the possible change in temperature.

I have seen this done using a thermos full of iced water. The trouble is   
the ice melts.
I guess it would be ok for short periods of time, like drag racing.

You could use solid state cooling, but that's fairly expensive.

Another possibility is to heat your cold junction (e.g. with a power   
transistor) to a *known* temperature
which is hotter than ambient, but less than the hot junction temperature.   
You have to contend with the
chicken and egg here. How do you measure the cold junction temperature in   
order to regulate it?

I guess the real question is how much will this improve the measurement   
accuracy over just using
ambient?

>
>                  Bruno.     ( u933234@student.canberra.edu.au )
>
>                       "If you've gotta go, go with a smile"
>
>

Regards,
Andrew Dalgleish
Senior Software Engineer
Axon Research, Pty Ltd
6 Wallace Ave,
Toorak, VIC
3142
AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-3-9826-5538
Fax +61-3-9824-0083

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 05:08:21 1996
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 00:58:35 -0500
To: diy_efi
From: dapiper@one.net (David Piper)
Subject: <z> Re: EGT for mixture setting?
Cc: z-car@taex001.tamu.edu
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>Does anyone have comments on how egt temps change with thermocouple 
>placement and what max limits may be????. The turbo mfr suggests 1750 max
>inlet temp.

I observed 1300 F at the exh port during cruise, light load and max of 1450
at 15 psig boost intercooled on a Datsun L28 motor.  I think anything above
that on a stainless valve is asking for trouble.


TurboDave
Less Maintenance, More Performance.


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Subject: M68000 family processors
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Hello fellow tinkerers:

  I am a recent graduate of Mechanical engineering from the University of
Alberta, up here in Canada.  I was hoping to glean some information
regarding m68k processors as EFI controllers.  Specifically, I am looking
for information on sensor interface with the chip.  I am not familiar with
specific sensor outputs ie) does an O2 sensor change a resistance value
with changing AFR? or does it produce it's own voltage output? Is the
output a linear relationship? How about knock sensors?, MAF sensors? etc. 
   I understand Motorolla makes a chip, the M68332 which is specifically
configred for EFI uses. Is this true?  I am proficient at M68k family
assembly language, but I am not familiar with PAL's, PIA's PIC's and the
like. Perhaps someone could point me in the right direction; FTP sites,
books, web sites, personal experience etc.  Any info you could give me
would be greatly appreciated. 

  I request this info so I may make an EFI system for my project car, a 
1972 Toyota Celica.  I have already designed IRS and fully adjustable 
suspension front and back. Future plans include Buick 231 V6, 5 speed 
stick, distributorless ignition with rev limiter and traction control, 
and of course EFI!

Thanks a million gang.

Todd-

|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Todd Ratke
  E-mail: tratke@gpu.srv.ualberta.ca
      or: ratke@nyquist.ee.ualberta.ca
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 06:26:41 1996
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To: diy_efi
Subject: RE: Re[2]: EGT for mixture setting
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  Interesting problem, I have an idea, it should produce acceptable 
results, but you will have to compensate for the offset voltage produced 
from the cold end of your thermistor not being @ 0C, this is not too 
difficult.
  How about placing the cold end of the thermistor in the coolant stream,
preferable close to the thermostat?  It won't give extremely accurate
results, and it'll be way outta whack before the engine is warm, but the
output should be within +/- 50F. The output will undoubtedly be innacurate
as an absolute temp reading, how far off depending of course, on the 
accuracy of your thermostat, but if you are just looking for peak EGT,
this should work. It sure would ease the problem of trying to maintain an
ice bath, which is not wholly practical for daily use.  Any feedback? 

Todd-


||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
From:	Todd Ratke				 e-mail:
	7304-83Ave			tratke@gpu.srv.ualberta.ca
	Edmonton, Alberta			   -or-
	T6B-0G6				ratke@nyquist.ee.ualberta.ca
	Ph: (403) 465-4036
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 06:43:08 1996
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From: arthurok@ix.netcom.com (ARTHUR OKUN )
Subject: Re: EGT for mixture setting
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the 50*f produces more power than peak egt i was told to NEVER run lean 
of peak because  it can cause valve and cylinder overheating how about 
measuring head temp  . the extra fuel  is used to improve valve 
cooling.
if no egt is availible  leaning to roughness and then richen till she 
runs smooth works fine   with a cs prop it works fairly well because
the tach  will not show anything below a dramatic power loss
summit automotive has some fairly low cost egt units in there latest 
catalog. for much less than aircraft types.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 07:45:57 1996
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Date:          Wed, 13 Mar 1996 09:28:17 UTC-2
Subject:       Re: EGT for mixture setting
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> cylinders.  Second, in order to get *any* correlation between mixture and
> EGT temp, you'd have to check with a Horiba lambda sensor.  And that is 
> assuming that such a correlation would exist and give you consistant results.

Where are Horiba sensors obtainable. We tried a phone no that was 
given in Turbo mag, and the number didn't seem to exist. Does anyone 
have a phone or fax # or e-mail address?

Sandy
 


======================================================================
DR. S.M. WELTAN
DEPT OF PHYSIOLOGY                       Tel. No: (021) 406-6507
UNIVERSITY OF CAPE TOWN                  Fax No:  (021) 47-7669
MEDICAL SCHOOL
SOUTH AFRICA                             

e-mail:sweltan@physio.uct.ac.za
======================================================================

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 09:50:38 1996
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Can anyone suggest software to view  *.ps (postscript) files that are found
on the web site.
                
                                regards,
                                                Mark Boxsell
                                                MRB Design.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 11:54:37 1996
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From: Jens Knickmeyer <knick@ibr.cs.tu-bs.de>
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Subject: Re: Suzuki Swift GTi Twincam 1.3 (87)
To: diy_efi
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 96 12:51:43 MET
In-Reply-To: <199603130201.MAA29667@oznet02.ozemail.com.au> from "Michael Fawke" at Mar 14, 96 01:03:52 pm
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<Michael Fawke> wrote:
> 
> The GTI will gain absolutely _nothing_ from a chip change. In australia, 
> several of the companies in the 'chipping' market have got their fingers
> burnt on GTI's by claiming up to 10Kw improvements. The biggest gain found
> (by independant testing) was from advancing the ignition timing 2 degrees,
> and it only gave couple of Kw above 7000rpm. The GTI engine is probably the
> most highly tuned (as standard) car engine you will ever find. 
> Michael Fawke
> fawkacs@ozemail.com.au

I do not know for the Australian market, but ASAIK, the US GTi engines
have a bit less power than the German engines, so that chip tuning could
possibly give you 10kW in addition.
Anyway, I agree with Michael: always be careful with chip tuning. There
are good (and rather expensive) kits, and there is a LOT of crap available,
esp. for supercharged engines. For my car (Polo-G40), there are kits which
ruin the engine quite soon, so that I prefer to stay away from them.

Just _my_ opinion...

Jens


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 11:54:45 1996
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From: Jens Knickmeyer <knick@ibr.cs.tu-bs.de>
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Subject: Re: Postscript viewer ?
To: diy_efi
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 96 12:47:35 MET
In-Reply-To: <m0twn7B-0006TZC@kyoko.mpx.com.au> from "Mark Boxsell" at Mar 14, 96 07:45:05 pm
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<Mark Boxsell> wrote:
> 
> Can anyone suggest software to view  *.ps (postscript) files that are found
> on the web site.
>                 
>                                 regards,
>                                                 Mark Boxsell
>                                                 MRB Design.

Mark,

try Ghostview, a PD program to view postscript files. It is available
for Unix (Linux!) and DOS and runs quite well. If you have a Linux
package, then you already have ghostview around or you can post-install
it easily. Otherwise, you should find the DOS and Linux versions on
nearly any ftp-server.

Jens ('92 VW Polo-G40)



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 12:58:19 1996
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In-Reply-To:  note of 96-03-13 11:49
try http://www.cs.wisc.edu/~ghost/ghostview/index.html
cheers, Paul

End of Message

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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 08:05:02 -0500 (EST)
From: Frank Parker <fparker@umich.edu>
To: diy_efi
cc: diy_efi
Subject: Re: EGT for mixture setting
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> 
> Where are Horiba sensors obtainable. We tried a phone no that was 
> given in Turbo mag, and the number didn't seem to exist. Does anyone 
> have a phone or fax # or e-mail address?
> 
> Sandy
> ======================================================================
> 
The Horiba UEGO sensor is available from Horiba @ 5900 Hines Drive, Ann
Arbor, MI, USA; phone 313-213-6555.
They market a "LAMDA CHECKER LD-01" universal wide range O2 sensor that
will read from o.7 to 1.5 times 14.7 stio air fuel ratio.The sensor is made
by Ceramic Sensor Ltd, NGK may make the electronics that lineariazes the
output and gives a 0-5 volt linear output for a data logger. A very nice
unit except since they remarket a allready made unit, the pricing is BAD.
The sensor alone is $900 and the output is not linear and the whole unit
is $ 2500.

I sent email to Link in New Zealand, as they were reported as a possible
other source, but no response yet.

Anyone know other sources for sensor and/or schmatics for linearizing
electronics????

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 14:11:21 1996
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 09:03:53 +0500
From: ehernan3@ford.com (Edward Hernandez (R))
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: EGT for mixture setting?
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> I love it when the exhaust glows red!

> Are Titanium valves geting cheaper?   :-)

No, believe it or not ordinary valves will can withstand this. We
have tried Ti, but they aren't worth the money for street applica-
tions. We try them primarily for weight reduction(higher toss speeds,
lower 1.5 order couple, reduced nose stresses), not for valve 
durability.

Ed Hernandez
Ford Motor Company
ehernan3@ed8719.pto.ford.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 14:23:06 1996
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 09:18:38 +0500
From: ehernan3@ford.com (Edward Hernandez (R))
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: volumetric efficiency
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> 
> "We concluded this when we got an volumetric efficiency of 1.1 !"
> 
> What makes you think having a volumetric efficiency of 1.1 makes your 
> meter incorrect? It is entirely possible to get volumetric efficiencies
> greater than one. What engine? What rpm? What was it designed to do?

The engine is a SAAB 2.3L standard production engine (fuel injection, 
no turbo, no EGR). The volumetric efficiencies close to 1.1 was obtained 
around 4000 rpm. Normally the vol. eff. should be 0.85 (see any engine
book) which makes an error of (1.1-.85)/.85=29%.

How can vol. eff. be greater than 1?


You need to think more about what the engine books are trying to tell
you, which is this: conventional carbuereted production engines have
a typical max vol eff of ~85%. There are always fliers in any set of
data. Today's production engines can easily exceed 90%, especially
with fuel injection and tuned intakes. The project I am working on
will achieve 103% vol eff at peak torque and 97% vol eff at peak
power. This is with full exhaust and inlet sytems in place and will
be a production engine. These are stellar numbers for a production
engine, but are par for course for my target market. Still, 85% is at
the low end of average for the data I've seen on today's engines.

Vol eff values greater than one mean than you have achieved natural
supercharging with a properly designed intake manifold working with
a matched camshaft. This isn't a miracle, just rare. Race engines
regularly achieve 100% or greater. Production engines are not far
behind. Saab make good engines with high specific outputs. 110% might
be high, but they certainly make more than 85%.

In any case, books only give guidelines and averages. They are by no
means absolute nor up to date with the latest technology.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 14:43:32 1996
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From: NassJeff <KOHLERNET/GENERATORS/NassJeff%Kohler_Co+p@mcimail.com>
To: diy efi <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: EGT for mixture setting
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Try:
Horiba Instruments, Inc.
17671 Armstrong
Irvine, California 92714
1-800-446-7422

The phone number was good two days ago...
----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
> cylinders.  Second, in order to get *any* correlation between mixture and
> EGT temp, you'd have to check with a Horiba lambda sensor.  And that is 
> assuming that such a correlation would exist and give you consistant 
results.

Where are Horiba sensors obtainable. We tried a phone no that was 
given in Turbo mag, and the number didn't seem to exist. Does anyone 
have a phone or fax # or e-mail address?

Sandy



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 15:09:27 1996
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From: "David M Parrish" <dmp@bmesun1.MCG.EDU>
To: diy_efi
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 09:43:30 +0000
Subject: Re: Re[2]: EGT for mixture setting
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> Is it practical to, put the cold junction into a lot of insulation, eg
> shove it into a giant block of polystyrene foam , or in a thermos

Nothing that extreme is needed. For accuracy, the cold junction has to 
be in ice, since the voltage output depends on the temperatures of 
both junctions. But if you don't care about absolute accuracy, you don't 
have any cold junction compensation at all. That's how aircraft EGT's 
are done. They just add a fudge factor to the meter markings, 
assuming  the cold end will be at some reasonable cabin temp.

If you want your EGT's to be accurate down to freezing, you can use
an Analog Devices AD594. It's a thermocouple amp with built in ice 
point compensation and runs about ten bucks US.

---
David Parrish
EGT at sixty-seven degrees?
Hmmm. I thought that engine
was running awfully quiet...
 average cabin temp

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 15:54:34 1996
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 09:45:00 -0600 (CST)
From: "Kenneth C. King" <kking@HiWAAY.net>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Re[2]: EGT for mixture setting
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On Wed, 13 Mar 1996, David M Parrish wrote:
> > Is it practical to, put the cold junction into a lot of insulation, eg
> > shove it into a giant block of polystyrene foam , or in a thermos
> Nothing that extreme is needed. For accuracy, the cold junction has to 
 [ munch ]
> If you want your EGT's to be accurate down to freezing, you can use
> an Analog Devices AD594. It's a thermocouple amp with built in ice 
> point compensation and runs about ten bucks US.
greetings:
  has it been considered that if you attach the cold side to something
in the intake plenum, then the air inlet temp gague could be used to 
determine the temp of the cold side of the thermo?  this would require
us to fix the temp in software, altho we could use the hardware to get
a ballpark figure & tweak the final number based on how far off 0deg f
we actually are... or is this another case of engineering overkill? :)

later,
kc
--
"ooooh, crumbs!"if the world is nite, shine my life like a lite"live your life
with PASSION"hey waiter, there's a transvestite in my soup"hey mister, are you
tall?"all alone in the nite"son of a son of a sailor"John DeArmond fanclub #13
"he's dead, jim"he's not dead, he's electroencephalographically challenged" kc


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 16:11:53 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: ie21142@itesocci.gdl.iteso.mx (Jose Vicente Loyola Matute)
Subject: EFI332 project
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>From: ie21142@itesocci.gdl.iteso.mx (Jose Vicente Loyola Matute)
>Subject: EFI332 project
>
>>To: diy-efi
>>From: ie21142@itesocci.gdl.iteso.mx (Jose Vicente Loyola Matute)
>>Subject: EFI332 project
>>
>>Hello there!
>>
>>Does anybody knows where i can learn more about the efi332 project?
>>
>>I tried:
>> 
>>>http://www.cim.swin.edu.au/wwwhome/aden/efi332/332_index.html
>>
>>and I get:
>>
>>>Error 404
>>>
>>>Not found - file doesn't exist or is read protected [even tried multi] 
>>>
>>
>>thanks a lot!
>>


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 16:27:43 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: Fred Miranda <fcmefi@fishnet.net>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: EGT for mixture setting
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>> Is it practical to, put the cold junction into a lot of insulation, eg
>> shove it into a giant block of polystyrene foam , or in a thermos

can someone explain "cold  junction"
does it have to do with the voltage produced at the junction of
the thermocouple wire and your measuring circuitry?

how do you interface a thermocouple? a cmos op amp?

Fred


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 17:12:56 1996
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	Wed, 13 Mar 1996 10:04:29 -0700
From: fridman@cpsc.ucalgary.ca (Robert Fridman)
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re:  EFI332 project
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> >>To: diy-efi
> >>From: ie21142@itesocci.gdl.iteso.mx (Jose Vicente Loyola Matute)
> >>Subject: EFI332 project
> >>
> >>Hello there!
> >>
> >>Does anybody knows where i can learn more about the efi332 project?
> >>
> >>I tried:
> >> 
> >>>http://www.cim.swin.edu.au/wwwhome/aden/efi332/332_index.html
> >>
> >>and I get:
> >>
> >>>Error 404
> >>>
> >>>Not found - file doesn't exist or is read protected [even tried multi] 
> >>>
> >>
> >>thanks a lot!
> >>

Things must have been rearanged at the 332 homepage.  Try this
address:
http://www.cim.swin.edu.au/~aden/web-docs/efi332/332_index.html


	RF.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
83 R100			DoD 749			Robert Fridman
84 320i						fridman@cpsc.ucalgary.ca

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 17:37:44 1996
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From: fridman@cpsc.ucalgary.ca (Robert Fridman)
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re:  M68000 family processors
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> Hello fellow tinkerers:
> 
>   I am a recent graduate of Mechanical engineering from the University of
> Alberta, up here in Canada.  I was hoping to glean some information
> regarding m68k processors as EFI controllers.  Specifically, I am looking
> for information on sensor interface with the chip.  I am not familiar with
> specific sensor outputs ie) does an O2 sensor change a resistance value
> with changing AFR? or does it produce it's own voltage output? Is the
> output a linear relationship? How about knock sensors?, MAF sensors? etc. 

You came to the right group;)

>    I understand Motorolla makes a chip, the M68332 which is specifically
> configred for EFI uses. Is this true?  I am proficient at M68k family
> assembly language, but I am not familiar with PAL's, PIA's PIC's and the
> like. Perhaps someone could point me in the right direction; FTP sites,
> books, web sites, personal experience etc.  Any info you could give me
> would be greatly appreciated. 

There is more information onthe M68332 project at the M68332 home page
which can be access through the diy_efi www page at:
http://www.cpsc.ucalgary.ca/~fridman/diy_efi.

BTW, if you need any 68020 chips sets (CPU,MMU,FPU), I have 4 sets for
sale.


	RF.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
83 R100			DoD 749			Robert Fridman
84 320i						fridman@cpsc.ucalgary.ca

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 19:10:04 1996
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To: diy_efi
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Fred Miranda wrote:

> can someone explain "cold  junction"
> does it have to do with the voltage produced at the junction of
> the thermocouple wire and your measuring circuitry?

> how do you interface a thermocouple? a cmos op amp?


A thermocouple is a junction between two dissimilar metals which produces a
voltage dependent on temperature.  When you join a Chromel and an Alumel wire
(type K thermocouple used for EGT's) you have a junction.  You also have two
other junctions that are also thermocouples:

  
      Chromel        Copper
               - v2 +
  +   /-----------^----------------    +
 v1  <                               Meter
  -   \-----------v----------------    -
        Alumel  + v3 -  Copper        


The voltage at the meter is v1 + v2 + v3.  In a laboratory environment, you
could put junctions 2 and 3 in an ice bath, and read the voltage v1, and
by using a thermocouple reference table, look up the temperature.  In the real
world, most measuring devices either tie junctions 2 and 3 to a thermal mass of
known temperature, or in the case of an analog meter, dismiss it entirely.  The
reference junction temperature (- 32 deg. F) is then added to the measurement.  
Another method is to use a cold junction compensator, which is a temperature-
dependent voltage source.  National Semiconductor makes one, although I don't
remember the chip number.

To measure the voltage, an opamp wired as a differential amp or high impedance
single-ended DC amplifier can be used, or special purpose instrumentation amp
can also be used.  Differential amps are required when the junction is grounded.
While laboratory instruments have a high input impedance (100 Meg is typical) 
as long as the junction is of sufficient cross-sectional area and the overall
wire length isn't outrageous, a differential amp with a 200K ohm impedance will
give reasonable results.  Remember, a thermocouple can deflect an unpowered 
analog meter movement! 

Most types of thermocouples are somewhat non-linear, although for EGT, type K 
is reasonably flat (maximum variation of 10 degrees through the range of 
800-1800 F). 

Cliff Ducharme
                    

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 19:43:39 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: Brad Martin <btm@usa.nai.net>
Subject: Re: Suzuki Swift GTi Twincam 1.3 (87)
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

At 12:51 PM 3/13/96 MET, you wrote:
><Michael Fawke> wrote:
>> 
>> The GTI will gain absolutely _nothing_ from a chip change. In australia, 
>> several of the companies in the 'chipping' market have got their fingers
>> burnt on GTI's by claiming up to 10Kw improvements. The biggest gain found
>> (by independant testing) was from advancing the ignition timing 2 degrees,
>> and it only gave couple of Kw above 7000rpm. The GTI engine is probably the
>> most highly tuned (as standard) car engine you will ever find. 
>> Michael Fawke
>> fawkacs@ozemail.com.au
>
>I do not know for the Australian market, but ASAIK, the US GTi engines
>have a bit less power than the German engines, so that chip tuning could
>possibly give you 10kW in addition.
>Anyway, I agree with Michael: always be careful with chip tuning. There
>are good (and rather expensive) kits, and there is a LOT of crap available,
>esp. for supercharged engines. For my car (Polo-G40), there are kits which
>ruin the engine quite soon, so that I prefer to stay away from them.
>
>Just _my_ opinion...
>
>Jens

I think we are confusing rice burners with krautwagons here.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 21:28:40 1996
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Al u-bends
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu


dan,

I would seriously like to get more info on the tubing bender you designed for
mandrel bending aluminum.  Please let me know if plans are available.  I have
my own mill and lathe.

Thanks,

Gary

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 22:43:53 1996
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re[4]: EGT for mixture setting
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

This message is intended for those who are interested in
thermocouple information.

>I have seen this done using a thermos full of iced water. The
>trouble is   the ice melts.

>Is it practical to, put the cold junction into a lot of
>insulation, eg shove it into a giant block of polystyrene foam ,
>or in a thermos bottle(?)

>How about placing the cold end of the thermistor in the coolant
>stream,..... It won't give extremely accurate results,..... if you 
are
>just looking for peak EGT, this should work.

Every connection in the TC (thermocouple) system between dissimilar 
metals acts as a TC.  Cold junction compensation is used
to offset the effects of joining your TC to a measuring device
(which has different metals in it).  Using a cold junction allows
you to read the voltage directly and get the temperatures from a TC
reference table.  0C (zero Celsius) is usually used as the
reference junction temperature, and in TC reference tables the
TC voltage at 0C is 0 volts.

For junction compensation of a TC you do not need an actual cold
junction at 0C.  You need to measure the temperature at the point
where the TC probe is attached to your conditioning circuit.  Both
of the TC wires must be at the same temperature at the junction
where they join into the conditioning circuit.  If you know the
temperature of the junction and you have a TC voltage/temperature
look up table you can properly correct your TC voltage reading.

To correct for the junction, look up what the voltage for your TC
type is for the junction temperature.  Add this voltage to the
voltage reading from the TC leads at the junction.  Then look up
the final voltage in the TC reference table to get the actual TC
temperature.  Of course it is easiest to get a computer to do
all this looking up and calculating.  If your junction is always 
at the same temperature (like room temperature) you could always 
use the same offset voltage (depending on what accuracy you want).

A circuit which adds in the proper compensation voltage based on
the junction temperature can also be used.  Using an ice bath and
a second TC at 0C properly connected in with the first TC does the
voltage addition for you if you prefer not to have a compact, easy
to use, and portable system.

If you are just looking for temperature peaks, take your two leads
coming from your TC and attach a digital voltmeter in the
millivolt range.  When you get your highest meter reading you have
reached your highest temperature.

Curves can be substituted for the tables.  Tables and curves are
available from TC sources such as Omega Engineering.  There is a
very good description of TC principles in the Omega Engineering
temperature catalog.

Some suitable semiconductor devices for measuring the junction 
temperature are:
AD590 - Analog Devices part that outputs 1 uA per degree Kelvin
(very easy to use, require a resistor and voltage supply to get a
voltage proportional to temperature).  This device is good to
150C, so it can be used to measure other things as well.
LM335 - National Semiconductor part similar to AD590

>If you accept more error, extension grade T-Couple wire is
cheaper.

Extension grade has similar characteristics to TC grade over a
limited temperature range.  The error outside this range may be
quite large.

Will McGonegal
Mobile Sources Emissions Division
Environment Canada

wmcgonegal@rr.etc.ncr.doe.ca


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 22:46:22 1996
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 22:34:24 GMT
Message-Id: <199603132234.WAA03152@freenet.msp.mn.us>
From: "Jim Staff"  <staffj@freenet.msp.mn.us>
To: diy_efi
Subject: What's my project
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Edward Hernandez

> What are you building, kart? Powerplant? Tell us and I'm sure someone 
> can help you figure out a way to qualitatively determine your WOT 
> volumetric efficiency. I'm thinking you could try to monitor exhaust 
> gas temperature(EGT) vs rpm, which can be done without a dyno.

    I'm building it for the Super Mileage Vehicle Competition; High School 
Level. For many of you in College and associated with the automotive engineers 
society (can't remember the 3 letter acronym) have done something very similar. 
The object is to build a vehicle that passes a bunch of regulations, on turn 
radius, length, with, hieght, weight, drivers wieght, engine horse power, engine
type (Only a Briggs and Stratton!) with a very simple object. Get the most miles
per gallon.

    Our vehicle from Eagan High School is one of the best in the state. We use a
fiberglass composite body, we have hydralic disk brakes, and a very efficient 
low drag vehicle design. We only managed to get 139 MPG last year but set the 
stock class (No engine modifications run record with (around, after all it's 
been almost a year since then I don't really remember) 390 MPG!!! After that our
motorcycle tranny ate it and died so we got docked for the laps we couldn't 
complete... Ohh well. The overall winner was Grand Rapids HS with 750 MPG. They 
use a mechanical injection system that was very ancient.

    Besides that I'm all done with my system except to build it. And to replace 
a part I can't find in units less than 25! If anyone out there has an extra 2 or
4 74AC11520's or 54AC11520's from Texas Instruments please let me know.

    Also If anyone is interested in helping our team, or wants more information.
(We love donations the school only gives us $400 a year) you can send a letter 
to :
    Eagan High School
    Attn : Mr. Bob Knodt
    Independent School Distric 196
    4185 Braddock Trail
    Eagan, MN 55123-1575

    Mr. Bob Knodt is the instructor of the activity, if your wondering. If 
anyone here is real good with electronics I'll send them a copy of my schematic 
if they send a letter. I'd love to get it checked over. Also if anyone here 
would works at a place that does board etching of some kind and would like to 
make a gracious donation of etching my board I'd love that. I'd love it even 
more if someone out there could redo my board with an autorouter as I laid out 
all this stuff by hand.

    Time to stop my bleeding heart letter. Thanks for the help.

                            Jim Staff


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 23:54:43 1996
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From: "Jim Staff"  <staffj@freenet.msp.mn.us>
To: diy_efi
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    I think I'l go with the optical encoded disk with the HEDS 1000 as the 
detector. I only need 100 lines on the disk and the disk is 3 inches in 
diameter. I can make massive marks. Besides that I can print on a 1200 DPI Laser
printer and then photographically generate the laminate wheel I need. Or even 
better I have a friend who is a machinist and I'd have him machine a disk with 
the right dimensions out of leaded steel with the right type of finish.
    Also a briggs want's to die below a typical 1500 RPM, without a load. Since 
we have a tranny with a nuetral we would die if we ever had to stop. Another 
thing is Briggs and strattons have a MTBF of several thousand hours. Of course 
you have to change the oil every 100 hours, and we use zinc impregnated 
synthetic oil to improve life. 
   The life expectancy on the device you brought to my attention would still be 
useless to me. 10,000,000 ratations at 4000 rpm (Maximum acceleration RPM in 
this case) isn't that impressive. Also I need to run this bastard more than 
likely 100 hours just to hammer out the kinks.

   Life does suck!!

   **Attn** : If anyone out there has an port injector rated for Å15 lbs/hr and 
is willing to donate, give, or sell to me drop me a E-mail!!!!!
         
                            Jim Staff


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Mar 13 23:55:33 1996
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 23:52:04 GMT
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From: "Jim Staff"  <staffj@freenet.msp.mn.us>
To: diy_efi
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In message <3142D4CA.2715@access.digex.net>  writes:
> >> That's less than 28 hours at 6000 rpm. Are you sure there isn't
> >> another 1000 in there?
> 
> > When was the last time you saw a Briggs + Stratton doing 6000 RPM?
> 
> Modified Briggs and Stratton engines used for go-kart racing spin well 
> over 5000.
> 
> Bill

These folowing Mods could get a Briggs & Stratton 3.5HP well into that range.

    1:) Turbocharger : I have already designed most the system, but for my 
application efficiency not power is important.
    2:) Replace the crackshaft with a high efficiency crack. (I have one changed
the horse power from 3.5 to 3.9!!!) These are cool things smaller with larger 
counterwieghts. They provide a smother ride too!
    3:) Fuel injection. Especially with a turbocharger could get a briggs in the
stratosphere as far as RPM goes.
    4:) A new piston : You'd melt a standard piston real quick, they're a low 
grade aluminum, cheap as hell. Replacing it with a Stainless steel piston would 
make it nearly flame proof.
    5:) A new connecting rod. Most are made of aluminum to, and would shear with
no problem at that speed and Horse power.
    6:) Increased compression ratio. A briggs and startton has a compression 
ratio of 4.7:1 max at the factory. I like 10:1 or 11:1 much better.
    7:) Change Cam profile to a design more conducive to fuel injection.
(A lot of these changes I've considered to do with my Super Mileage Vehicle)
        Walla: A Briggs that runs at Å10HP, and 7-8000 RPM. All from a 3.5HP I'm
deranged, it's sick that I know so much about such a shitty old engine!

                                   Jim Staff


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar 14 01:21:16 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: "George M. Dailey" <gmd@tecinfo.com>
Subject: TPI and thermostats
Cc: IMD1@msn.com
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Gentlemen,

A while back I inquired about cold thermostat = more power for tuned port FI
engines. As a testiment of my typicly bad luck, the original thermostat in
the engine was stuck open. Temps were at record lows in MS, so I drove it as
is for several days. Fuel economy was 10-11 mpg (city). After changing the
thermostat to 180 (instead of 195 per GM) fuel economy did not improve much
and, I still had heater temp problems. I changed the thermostat to a high
quality 195 F unit and tossed the cheap 180F AUTOZONE unit. It looks like
the final MPG figure for the week will be around 14 - 16 mpg, and the heater
is putting out like Bessmer Furnace.  

Question: My TBI engine used a 180 F thermostat and got 12-13 mpg city. Is
the difference software or engine thermodynamics? Why did the cold TPI motor
fall on it's face?

BTW, I could detect a slight increase in power. I can imagine that the
electronics may have allowed the A/F ratio to thicken a bit and advanced the
timeing as part of the 'warm up code'.  The Chilton manual does list
incorrect or damaged thermostat as a possible cause of low fuel economy. 

Hate to ask this one but, since I lost my pride due to a bad love affair
years ago, here it goes :-[]   Up to a limit, could one expect better
economy at ...say...220F (secondary fan turn on point)? I am aware of the
lubrication problems and detonation at high temps, what are others?

thanks, 

GMD




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar 14 02:56:34 1996
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 19:36:20 -0700 (MST)
From: Grant Beattie <grantb@nait.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: Re[2]: EGT for mixture setting
To: diy_efi
In-Reply-To: <Pine.SOL.3.91.960313120657.24342B-100000@student.canberra.edu.au>
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On Wed, 13 Mar 1996, Bruno! wrote:

> Is it practical to, put the cold junction into a lot of insulation, eg
> shove it into a giant block of polystyrene foam , or in a thermos
> bottle(?) and tuck it under the dash somewhere? in the extremes of heat
> and cold it may help to measure the temp of the juction with a thermistor,
> to compensate for the possible change in temperature. 

Don't bother.  Analog Devices (AD595) and Linear Tech (LT1025?) make cold 
junction compensator ccts and amps.  The circuit becomes a no-brainer and 
the output voltage is 10mv/deg C.

GB

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar 14 04:56:19 1996
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Subject: UEGO sensor
To: diy_efi
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 96 21:06:02 MDT
From: Darrell Norquay <dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
In-Reply-To: <Pine.PCW.3.91.960313075521.13590A-100000@frankparker.chem.lsa.umich.edu>; from "Frank Parker" at Mar 13, 96 8:05 am
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> Anyone know other sources for sensor and/or schmatics for linearizing
> electronics????

About 4 years ago, we ran across a family of sensors manufactured by GTE
Labs.  Among the several flavors was an oxygen gas sensor.  The model
number was MGS-2000, and it measured 0-100% oxygen (equivalent AFR 0-40).
The unit looks like a standard automotive O2 sensor, but with 6 leads.

The sensor was developed in conjunction with Waukesha for their stationary
engines, what they called the Waukesha Lean Burn Control System.  It 
operates on an electrochemical pumping principle, using zirconia ceramics.
It's output is a linear function of oxygen concentration.  Unlike an
automotive sensor, it does not require a reference gas port (air bleed),
and you simply calibrate it in air to read 21% O2.  I don't know if this 
was ever made into a commercial product, or how much it costs, but it could 
be worth looking into.

The sensor has a heater (2 leads), a type K thermocouple for measuring 
internal temperature (2 leads), and the output, which is a current.  
Not too difficult to interface to, we actually got a sample of one of these
to play with, but it was a different style which was optimised for reading
methane gas.  It didn't suit our application, but I still have it kicking
around somewhere.  At the time, I wasn't into EFI, so I didn't pursue it
further.

The address is:

GTE Laboratories
40 Sylvan Road
Waltham, Ma 02254
617-466-4123       ,
Contact: Joseph Cote

As I said, this was a few years ago, so I don't know if the phone # / contact
name is still valid.  If anyone looks into this, keep us posted...

regards
dn


--
---------------------------------------------------------------------
 Darrell A. Norquay              Internet: dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca     
 Datalog Technology Inc.         Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell
 Calgary, Alberta, Canada        Voice: +1 (403) 243-2220            
                                 Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872            
    @ +                                                                
     <                                                         
    __/    "Absolutum Obsoletum" - If it works, it's obsolete    
 --------------------------------------------------------------------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar 14 07:12:08 1996
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From: robert dingli <r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Message-Id: <199603140641.RAA06695@mullian.ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: Fuel injector optimum location
To: diy_efi
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 17:41:04 +1100 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <960309130522_241695640@emout10.mail.aol.com> from "CHarris233@aol.com" at Mar 9, 96 01:05:23 pm
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Charlie Harris writes,

> Placement of the fuel injector always seems to generate a lot of
> "discussion".  Unfortunately, there isn't always an easy answer, even in
> similar conditions.  As an example, I'd like to point out the difference in
> injector location on two Indy car engines.  The Ford-Cosworth variety places
> the injector low in the port, just above the inlet valve.  This should enable
> more precise distribution between cylinders, though at some loss in  fuel
> evaporation due to the slightly shorter travel.  The Mercedes Benz-Ilmor (my
> job, BTW) places the injectors high above the trumpets.  This gives slightly
> more time for fuel vaporization, but gives slightly less control over where
> the fuel ends up.

Injector location can also affect throttle response.  Injectors closer to the
inlet valve provide a shorter path for the liquid film and better transient 
response.

An SAE paper detailing Mazda's 1993 (??) LeMans engine (the 26B quad rotor
that was mentioned a few weeks back) mentioned the benefits of at least a 
couple injector positions with respect to power and economy (they were
running in a fuel quantity restricted class).  I can't find the reference 
right now, but as Charles mentioned, injectors placed further up the inlet
stream result in better vapourisation and mixing.  There is also more time 
for the vapourising fuel to absorb heat from the air - cooling the inlet
charge.  The down side is an increase in response time.

One of my project cars (Toyota Celica RA23, 3SG 16v) has the injectors
mounted in the head which makes inlet manifold fabrication rather easy.

regards,
Robert

-- 
    Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems    (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
     University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA 
**  he who dies with the most toys, wins  **

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar 14 07:14:47 1996
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From: dzorde@aesprodata.com.au
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 96 15:06:43 
Message-Id: <9602148268.AA826844803@afcperth.aesprodata.com.au>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: TPI and thermostats
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     A cold motor means the ECU is runnig open loop and rich, this could 
     explain the bad fuel economy and why the power is not what it should 
     be.  The ECU does not (as far as I'm aware) go into closed loop until 
     everything is reasonably warm.
     
     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au 


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: TPI and thermostats
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
Date:    3/14/96 2:37 PM


Gentlemen,
     
     All gone
     
thanks, 
     
GMD
     
     
     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Mar 14 12:36:44 1996
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 07:31:52 -0500
To: diy_efi
From: dhe1@cornell.edu (Dan Elsberg)
Subject: Al U-bender
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Reply-To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

To all the folks who asked about the u-bender, I'll post something after I
get back from my spring break (next wednesday).  I'm just trying to get out
of town right now.  Sorry for the delay.

--dan

--
Dan Elsberg                                                  (607) 272-1574
Cornell University, Engineering Physics                    dhe1@cornell.edu



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From: jzalesny@ix.netcom.com (JimZ -92' AWD Tsi )
Subject: Re: Al u-bends
To: diy_efi
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>I would seriously like to get more info on the tubing bender you 
>designed for mandrel bending aluminum.  Please let me know if plans 
>are available.  I have my own mill and lathe.
>
>Thanks,
>Gary

A poor mans u-bender consists of a set of pipe benders from JC Whitney, 
clean fine sand, plugs for the pipes and t-clamps.  On one end of pipe 
to be bent insert a plug and t-clamp it in. Fill other end of the pipe 
with sand until almost full.  Insert the second plug into the open end 
and clamp the plug in. Bend the pipe using the pipe benders. 

The sand is the secret to keeping the even radius bend, it does not 
allow the pipe to compress.

 ___   _________________________________________________   ___
|___|  _________________PIPE____________________________  |___|
 plug                                                      plug

       _________________________________________________
plug->|___|____________sand in pipe_________________|___|<-plug        
       ^                                               ^
       |____                                        ___|  
            clamp                              clamp 

Works with all different size tubing.

cheers

JimZ 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar 15 00:31:34 1996
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 96 20:17:51 PST
From: jac@wave.sheridan.wy.us (john carroll)
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: thermocouples
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I use the AD594 device to compensate and linearize thermocouples.  

Does anyone have experience multiplexing in front of one?

-----------------------------------------------
jac@wave.sheridan.wy.us
john carroll


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar 15 14:49:46 1996
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From: scicior@cp.uswc.uswest.com (Steve Ciciora)
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Subject: Re: thermocouples
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> I use the AD594 device to compensate and linearize thermocouples.  
> 
  Just because the specs say something like "output is 10mV/Deg C" dosn't
mean that these devices linerize themocouples.  I don't think they do.

-Steven Ciciora

> Does anyone have experience multiplexing in front of one?
> 
> -----------------------------------------------
> jac@wave.sheridan.wy.us
> john carroll
> 
> 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar 15 15:30:47 1996
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Hi Orin

The Bosch trottle position comes in both rotations.  The Weber trottle body 
used on the Renault is the opposite rotation of the Ford trottle body as 
you know.  The German cars (BMW) have the trottle body switches in the 
other directioin.  Even so I was not happy with the fit, and I prefer to 
sense the manifold pressure to go to enrichment.  The manifold pressure 
switch was used on Volvo's and on late Renaults using the LU-jetronic. But 
I still don't know a PN or where I can get one.  Nor do I know at what 
pressure the switch closes/opens.

The trottle body injector I use for the MGB (1800cc) is a E43-AC, 
~752cc/min @ 14.7lb/sqin.  It's about 4 times the injector flow of the port 
injectors for  the Renault i18 or Fuego.


The MGB engine and manifold can't take the lean running condition of the 
design value for the L-Jetronic.  It therefore idled poorly (too lean) and 
hesitated when accelerating.  I was able to overcome all of that by 
loosening the spring of the air flow meter by two notches, and by 
increasing the fuel pressure to 17 lb/squin.  The key for good idle and 
operation is to run at the design mixture level the  engine and manifold.  
This means no lamda (O2) sensor.

Decreasing the spring force on the air meter decreases the maximum air 
measuring capability (runs lean at wide open trottle), so I also toyed with 
the calibration of the air meter.  Depending on the air meter you can 
increase the fuel flow by changing one of the reference resistor values in 
the air meter (thats the resistor that feeds the potentiometer).

The last and best way is to modify the computer to put out more fuel by a 
fixed percent across the whole range of operation.  This is a little more 
tricky and beyond my ability to describe here.  With any of the changes 
above, the car ran good and idled just fine cold or hot.

I never had any cold start problem with the system.  It starts easily with 
at -10F. You might check the cold start injector circuit, and be sure that 
the cold start injector is designed for the fuel pressure you are using.  
You need a low pressure injector.  You can get one from the old VW's that 
use trottle body injection.

I really like the Electromotive unit.  Did you program it, or are you using 
the program that comes with it.  


Werner

---------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: L-jetronic

Werner,
Did you ever find out what the flow specs. are for the Ford (Bosch) 
injectors are???  I remember you said that you were having trouble with the 
system running lean on the "B"..I had the same problem when I tried your 
approach and never could get the thing to run as I would like.  I also 
never overcame the cold start problems..You know, on very cold days it 
would idle very rough...Warm days ok, but cold days really bad.  I have 
switched over to the Electromotive TEC II and it runs fine, although a 
little lean, but the system is very expensive and defeated the real 
purpose...A cheap replacement for the SU's or Zenith carbs...Let me know 
how you're making out ...

Orin

Hi Werner,
I also had a hard time fitting a switch to the Ford throttle body and what 
I finally used were 2 micro switches on a bracket that I mounted where the 
idle air motor had been mounted.  I never did like this approach.  I looked 
into using the Bosch switch but as you know it's rotation is backwards and 
I never really came up with a good solution.  The vacuum switch sounds like 
a good alternative.

You never gave me the injector part number.  You said you thought it was 
green color coded but when I talked to you, you couldn't remember.  If you 
have time, please look it up and send it to me.  If you know it's flow 
rate, please let me know that also.

I also upped the fuel pressure to 17 or 18 PSIG and it did help a lot.

You didn't say how you had overcomed the poor idle when cold problem.  What 
have you done there??

Orin


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar 15 15:58:37 1996
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Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
Hi James

The L-Jetronic uses an air meter with a flap.  Yes it is restrictive. My 
original plan was to get this system going.  Put in the fuel delivery 
system, get the injector(s) working and just prove the feasabilty.  Then I 
was going to move up to the fancy $1800 Electromotive TEC II system.  It 
uses a Mass Air Flow meter.

Anyway the L-jetronic seems to work well enough to satisfy me, but I am 
still itching to add a turbo, and for that I want to control the ignition 
and will probably need the Electomotive system.

A later Bosch system called the LH-Jetronic was digital and used a MAF 
meter.  This was used in the '80s on Volvo up to '88. The L series Bosch 
systems are very nice because they are so easy to adapt.  They only use the 
ingnition coil signal.  No fancy crank sensors are needed.

Anyway the problem for hot rodders are that these systems were used mainly 
in relatively small engines except for Jaguar, BMW and the like.  And for 
the price of those in a junk yard, you might as well use Electromotive 
systems.

The L-Jetronics uses only the air meter signal (air temperature and Air 
flow, together they give air volume), the water temperature and the 
ignition (rpm and crank position) to calculate Fuel.  Trottle position is 
not used except to enrich at 2/3 trottle and to cut out the fuel above 1500 
rpm when at closed trottle. This is actually very accurate and very simple.

The air meter gives out a voltage that changes logorithmically with the air 
flow. It also has a thermistor for air temperature. 

To use the L-Jetronic system You will have to find a car with about the 
same size engine as the one you want to adapt.  This is most likely to be 
your biggest obstacle.  Of course you could run two systems, one on each 
side of a V8.  How big an engine are you using anyway?

My suggestion is that you should try to get something working, and then 
keep working to make it better. You can always try to get started with the 
Holley trottle body.  Used ones are often for sale by someone who has 
upgraded.  This way you will get the basics in place like the fuel 
delivery, the high pressure pump, etc.

For more information get the Probst book on Bosch systems.

Good Luck
Werner

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Mar 15 18:00:48 1996
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From: "David M Parrish" <dmp@bmesun1.MCG.EDU>
To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 12:56:09 +0000
Subject: Re: thermocouples
Priority: normal
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> > I use the AD594 device to compensate and linearize thermocouples.  
> > 
>   Just because the specs say something like "output is 10mV/Deg C" dosn't
> mean that these devices linerize themocouples.  I don't think they do.

Nope. It amplifies and provides an ice reference, but doesn't do 
linearization. The polynomials to linearize the output of all the common 
thermocouples are well known and I've attached a small Pascal program I used 
for demonstration with the AD595 and a K thermocouple. You can use the 
polynomial in the controller firmware, or better yet, use this program 
to generate a look-up table.

> > Does anyone have experience multiplexing in front of one?

I may be a bit banger, but I know that mux'ing millivolt signals can 
be tricky. Any analog guru's out there?

Program Kcouple;
{
	AD595	outputV= (K voltage + 11uV)*247.3
		K volt = outV/247.3 - 11uV
		K volt =4.043672e-5*digits - 1.1e-5	(10.24Vref)
		K volt =2.9631204e-5*digits - 1.1e-5	(15.00Vref)
		K volt =1.9754136e-5*digits - 1.1e-5	(15.00Vref, 2/3 gain)

	EGT	max = 954oC (1750oF)

	K thermocouple:	0 to 1370 oC	+/- 0.7 oC
}


var	x	: integer;
	v, T	: double;

Begin
writeln('  x    K mV     T oC          T oF');
{        NNNN NN.NNNN NNNN.NNN NNNN NNNN.NNN NNNN }
for x:=0 to 2047 do
  begin
{ v:= 4.043672e-5*x - 1.1e-5;}
  v:= 1.9754136e-5*x - 1.1e-5;
  T:=	0.226584602 +
	    v*(24152.10900 +
	      v*(67233.4248 +
		v*(2210340.682 +
		  v*(-860963914.9 +
		    v*(4.83506e10 +
		      v*(-1.18452e12 +
			v*(1.38690e13 +
			  v*(-6.33708e13))))))));
  writeln(x:4,(v*1000):8:4,T:9:3,T:5:0,((T*9/5)+32):9:3,((T*9/5)+32):5:0);
  end;
End.


---
David Parrish
Hey, don't laugh.
I taught myself Pascal
with the original Wirth compiler.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Mar 16 01:26:36 1996
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From: mike@cooper.zynet.co.uk (Mike Rigby-Jones)
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 01:12:05 GMT
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On Wed, 13 Mar 1996 23:52:04 GMT, you wrote:


>
>    1:) Turbocharger : I have already designed most the system, but for my 
>application efficiency not power is important.
>    2:) Replace the crackshaft with a high efficiency crack. (I have one changed
>the horse power from 3.5 to 3.9!!!) These are cool things smaller with larger 
>counterwieghts. They provide a smother ride too!
>    3:) Fuel injection. Especially with a turbocharger could get a briggs in the
>stratosphere as far as RPM goes.
>    4:) A new piston : You'd melt a standard piston real quick, they're a low 
>grade aluminum, cheap as hell. Replacing it with a Stainless steel piston would 
>make it nearly flame proof.
>    5:) A new connecting rod. Most are made of aluminum to, and would shear with
>no problem at that speed and Horse power.
>    6:) Increased compression ratio. A briggs and startton has a compression 
>ratio of 4.7:1 max at the factory. I like 10:1 or 11:1 much better.
>    7:) Change Cam profile to a design more conducive to fuel injection.
>(A lot of these changes I've considered to do with my Super Mileage Vehicle)
>        Walla: A Briggs that runs at Å10HP, and 7-8000 RPM. All from a 3.5HP I'm
>deranged, it's sick that I know so much about such a shitty old engine!
>
>                                   Jim Staff
>
Hey its good to know that some sad people still play with these
things.  I had several of these engines to play with some years back.
I ported one and put larger valves in and raised the compression as
much as possible, also got rid of the so called 'carb' and put on one
from a Honda 125 OHC.  Don't know what sort of power it got but the
kart it was in went pretty well!!!

I think you would have a major problem getting 10:1 compression from
the beast.  The area needed for the valves o move up and down pretty
much limits the max compression especially if you put big valves in.

Stainless steel piston????  Bit heavy I would have thought?  Why not
graft in a crank and piston from said Honda?? ( BTW most pistons tend
to be flame proof!!!!)  This would solve the con rod problem as well
(I have seen several of these snap even when the engine was powering a
mower)

The flywheel is also a little suspect for high rpms.  In fact its
lethal so get rid of it or at least strengthen it in some way.

As for a turbo, well it'd have to be VERY small just to be turned over
by a B&S let alone produce boost.  I managed to get some kind of
vacuum pump from a old milking machine which could be used in reverse
as a pressure pump.  It was a vane device and had a fair displacement
so I was toying with the idea of supercharging but never really got it
finished.  I think that would be the way to go instead of turbos.

cheers

Mike RJ

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Mar 16 04:02:49 1996
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 96 19:49:23 PST
From: "Clinton L. Corbin : Backgrind/Gold : Pager 0544" <CCORBIN@INTEL7.intel.com>
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Subject: BS ENGINES
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>>    4:) A new piston : You'd melt a standard piston real quick, they're a low 
>>grade aluminum, cheap as hell. Replacing it with a Stainless steel piston would 
>>make it nearly flame proof.
>
>Stainless steel piston????  Bit heavy I would have thought?  Why not
>graft in a crank and piston from said Honda?? ( BTW most pistons tend
>to be flame proof!!!!)  This would solve the con rod problem as well
>(I have seen several of these snap even when the engine was powering a
>mower)

Aluminum pistons being flame proof?!  Aluminum melts at around 1100F (used to
work in an aluminum foundry).  Flame temp inside an IC engine is around 1600F.
At 1600F, aluminum is a really pretty BRIGHT orange liquid!  The only thing 
that saves the piston is the limited time that the fuel/air is burning 
(relative to the total time) and the heat transfer to the cylinder.  If you
increase the amount of energy being generated in the combustion chamber 
(say by turbocharging or just increasing the breathing of the engine) enough,
the piston will not be able to dump the extra energy to the cylinder and bam,
you melt a nice hole in the piston.  BTW, molten aluminum is not the best lube
in the world!  All in all, aluminum is not the best material for a piston.
Unfortunately, a really great material (Carbon/Carbon Composites) costs about
fifty times as much!  Maybe someday we will all have pistons that CANNOT melt.

Clint
ccorbin@intel7.intel.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Mar 16 20:53:17 1996
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Date: Sat, 16 Mar 96 13:05:05 MDT
From: Darrell Norquay <dn@dlogtech.cuc.ab.ca>
In-Reply-To: <Chameleon.960313202359.jac@>; from "john carroll" at Mar 13, 96 8:17 pm
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> I use the AD594 device to compensate and linearize thermocouples.  
> 
> Does anyone have experience multiplexing in front of one?
> 

John:

It's pretty difficult to multiplex the direct signals from thermocouples.
Using an electronic approach, any type of analog multiplexer usually has a
relatively high series resistance (compared to the t'couple) and introduces
a lot of error.  A mechanical approach (using relays) is better in some
respects, but you still get a thermocouple effect from the metal in the 
contacts, as well as resistance, and it's slow.  Mercury wetted reed relays
may work, I've never tried this.  In any case, you'd have to do the cold
junction comp before the MUX anyway.

A better approach would be to use some sort of a simple preamp circuit to
bring the output of each thermocouple up to a more manageable level, and
buffer the thermocouple output with a low impedence driver.  You could then
use a standard multiplexer chip and a final gain/offset stage to get a 
calibrated output.

The Analog Devices AD594 has no linearization of the TC input.  You can 
use some external components to improve the linearity, but a type K is
reasonably linear anyway, (better than other TC types) and for this 
application you don't really care if the temp is 1294.8 deg or 1298.4 deg, 
a few degrees one way or the other isn't going to make a difference.

Analog Devices has a relatively new chip, P/N AC1226, which does the 
cold junction comp, buffers the signal, and gives an output of 10 mV per
degree C.  It also has some rudimentary linearization built in, it's
pretty general but does improve the linearity significantly.  The device
has a built in temperature sensor, and is extremely low power to minimze
self heating, you would physically mount it right on your isothermal block
where TC leads meets copper wire.  I don't know the cost on these, but it 
should be reasonable.  If you use one per TC, and then MUX these together 
into an A2D or display device of some kind, you should be able to come up 
with a relatively low cost system with good accuracy.

If you don't feel up to building one, almost all manufacturers of PC A2D
converter boards (National Instruments, Strawberry Tree, Burr Brown, etc.) 
have an optional multi-channel signal conditioner / terminal board that 
have cold junction comp and preamps built in.  These usually run in the 
$150-$300 range, a bit dear but saves a lot of work, especially if you only
need one.

regards
dn
 

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 Datalog Technology Inc.         Bang: calgary!debug!dlogtech!darrell
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                                 Fax:   +1 (403) 243-2872            
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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar 18 18:27:20 1996
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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 20:43:09 EST
From: Ed Lansinger <elansi01@mpg.gmpt.gmeds.com>
Subject: RE: BS ENGINES 
To: diy_efi
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Clint Corbin wrote:

>Aluminum pistons being flame proof?!  Aluminum melts at around 1100F (used to
>work in an aluminum foundry).  Flame temp inside an IC engine is around 1600F.
>[snip]
>If you increase the amount of energy being generated in the combustion chamber 
>(say by turbocharging or just increasing the breathing of the engine) enough,
>the piston will not be able to dump the extra energy to the cylinder and bam,
>you melt a nice hole in the piston.
>[snip]
>All in all, aluminum is not the best material for a piston.

Geez, Clint, that's an awfully harsh statement considering aluminum is the preferred 
material for production and many racing pistons these days, *including* turbocharged
and supercharged engines.  Aluminum being a more expensive material than steel, there 
must be a good reason that the OEMs use it.

Actually, _exhaust gas temperature_ is around 1600F, flame temp in the combustion 
chamber is more like 3000F.  Iron and steel are already starting to get rather weak 
around 1600F;  3000F will melt either.  So piston durability must be a more complicated 
issue than simply one of material selection.

As you allude, heat transfer is very important.  Aluminum is a nice material from that 
standpoint, much nicer than steel.  It's not clear to me that simply redoing the same 
aluminum design in steel will improve durability - strength at the same temperature goes 
up, but the piston temperature goes up because it can't transfer heat as quickly through 
itself to the walls, wrist pin, oil, intake air, etc., plus you have much greater 
stresses from the greater mass you are throwing around.

Obviously, I'm not a piston designer.

I have heard of people having lots of success with aluminum pistons and heads that use a 
(ceramic) thermal barrier coating.  Maybe this would be a good solution to the original 
question (which I missed).

Ed Lansinger
GM Powertrain Premium V (Northstar/Aurora) Software & Calibration Group








From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar 18 20:55:42 1996
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To: diy_efi
Subject: RE BS ENGINES
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Ed Lansinger wrote:

> I have heard of people having lots of success with aluminum pistons and heads > that use a 
> (ceramic) thermal barrier coating.  Maybe this would be a good solution to the>  original 
> question (which I missed).

I like it - ceramic pistons/cylinders for B&S engines...

>From what I have seen, the limiting factor on the B&S as far as HP production
is concerned is the basic design (L-head, small valves, limited heat rejection
capacity from the fin area, no pressure lubrication to cool the piston crown).

You can put bigger valves in, enlarge the ports, regrind the cam lobes, and
add a larger carburetor(throttle body) but the head design impedes bumping up 
the compression ratio from its lowly value, and without improved cooling, the 
engine will self-destruct from seizing if the crank or connecting rod doesn't 
break first.  But I still think the're a great engine.  

My project engine was purchased in 1970 when I graduated from high school, cut 
acres of grass for many years until the mower deck rusted away, was lucky if it
saw an annual oil change, and when I dissassembled it last fall before starting
my senior project, I couldn't find a ridge at the top of the cylinder!  The 
aluminum bore still had crosshatch marks in places and, other than exterior 
rust, corrosion and flaked paint, showed little signs of such abuse.  For its
intended purpose, that's hard to argue with.

What was the original question?

P.S. Ed - Great article in Circuit Cellar Ink.  It helped me greatly.

Cliff Ducharme

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Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 15:46:45 +0500
From: ehernan3@ford.com (Edward Hernandez (R))
To: diy_efi
Subject: PIstons
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Ed Lansinger wrote

"Aluminum being a more expensive material than steel, there 
must be a good reason that the OEMs use it."

1) It's light and won't yank the crankpins off the crank at 6000rpm.
2) It's much easier(read cheaper) to machine than steel.
3) You were correct about the rest, except than combustion temps can
reach upwards of 4400 F(transient, but hot). Not bad for a calibrator;
with some training, you be a decent piston engineer.


Ed Hernandez
Ford Motor Company
ehernan3@ed8719.pto.ford.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Mar 18 23:55:59 1996
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