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From: DJohn77284@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 1 Sep 1996 03:06:22 -0400
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Subject: Re: Manifold conversions.
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Chris,

One of my long term projects is also Renault V6 based although it's the
lesser known R30.

This has the K-Jetronic as well. My intension is to replace the mechanical
injection with electronics injection along with going to distributorless
ignition.

Have you any details that you could share with me? Do you have anything on
tuning this engine? I haven't seen much available. I'd appreciate any
thoughts or comments.

TIA, Regards,

Dave
DJohn77824@aol.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep  1 10:12:52 1996
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From: jsg (John S Gwynne)
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This message is post monthly as a reminder of the available list
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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep  1 14:13:36 1996
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Date: 01 Sep 96 10:07:59 EDT
From: David Redpath <101513.357@CompuServe.COM>
To: DIY_EFI <diy_efi>
Subject: knock sensor
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Hi,

I'm new to the group and probably covering old ground,
but here goes :-

I'm interested in hooking up a knock sensor to monitor my engine.
Does anybody have information and/or prototype circuits ?

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep  1 16:22:25 1996
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Date: Sun, 01 Sep 1996 09:19:11 +0000
From: Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>
Organization: Protomotive Engineering
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Once Again:
	J&S Electronics
	(714) 534-6975
	13925 parkway Drive
	Garden Grove, Ca 92643

Talk to John, and tell him, Todd from Protomotive sent me.  He's got a
great product.  His knock sensor will integrate with everything shy of
distributorless and he's probably working on that as well.
Good Luck.

Todd Knighton
Protomotive Engineering


David Redpath wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm new to the group and probably covering old ground,
> but here goes :-
> 
> I'm interested in hooking up a knock sensor to monitor my engine.
> Does anybody have information and/or prototype circuits ?

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep  1 16:35:43 1996
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Date: Sun, 1 Sep 1996 17:02:11 +0100
To: diy_efi
From: Chris Morriss <crsm@oroboros.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Manifold conversions.
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In message <960901030622_398753231@emout14.mail.aol.com>,
DJohn77284@aol.com writes
>Chris,
>
>One of my long term projects is also Renault V6 based although it's the
>lesser known R30.
>
>This has the K-Jetronic as well. My intension is to replace the mechanical
>injection with electronics injection along with going to distributorless
>ignition.
>
>Have you any details that you could share with me? Do you have anything on
>tuning this engine? I haven't seen much available. I'd appreciate any
>thoughts or comments.
>
>TIA, Regards,
>
>Dave
>DJohn77824@aol.com
>
If it's the Renault 30 version of the engine you'll have problems with
the ignition.  The non-turbo versions of the engine have the crank con-
rod journals shared.  This means that the firing intervals are irregular
'cause its a 90 degree V6 block.  The 2.5 litre turbo version and all of
the modern 2975cc versions including the 24 valve have the offset
crankshaft giving regular sparks.  On these versions you could use three
double-ended coils, but the older version would require six separate
coils and a more complicated ignition timing unit.

I guess that you must be in the US (being AOL.com).  Drop me a private
Email with your address and I'll post you some info on tuning this
engine.  Not got much though.  My Alpine GTA is in a higher state of
tune than the R30 or R25 engines to start with.  There a couple of UK
addresses I could give you that work with this engine.  I also have a
few French addresses if your French is adequate.  (mine isn't)

Bye,
-- 
Chris Morriss

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep  1 16:54:29 1996
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From: rickydik@ix.netcom.com (RD Rick)
Subject: Re: knock sensor
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Todd wrote: 
>
>Once Again:
>	J&S Electronics
>	(714) 534-6975
>	13925 parkway Drive
>	Garden Grove, Ca 92643
>
>Talk to John, and tell him, Todd from Protomotive sent me.  He's got a
>great product.  His knock sensor will integrate with everything shy of
>distributorless and he's probably working on that as well.

In his 1992 book, Dr.(?) Jacobs claims that knock sensors jump the 
timing back six degrees, and it takes some time to recover to optimum.  
Meanwhile, an acceleration, like to pass a car, is over with.  He says 
a dashboard-mounted timing control, which he happens to sell, gives 
better results.  Comments?
RD

>David Redpath wrote:

>> I'm new to the group and probably covering old ground,
>> but here goes :-

>> I'm interested in hooking up a knock sensor to monitor my engine.
>> Does anybody have information and/or prototype circuits ?



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep  1 18:00:09 1996
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Subject: Re: knock sensor
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Sounds like BS from the Doctor.
No decent system is going to retard 6deg at the first instance of knock.

I agree with Todd, the J&S is a good system.
No time for messin with knobs while pushing the envelope in a
fast car.

Fred

>In his 1992 book, Dr.(?) Jacobs claims that knock sensors jump the 
>timing back six degrees, and it takes some time to recover to optimum.  
>Meanwhile, an acceleration, like to pass a car, is over with.  He says 
>a dashboard-mounted timing control, which he happens to sell, gives 
>better results.  Comments?


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep  1 19:25:59 1996
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>------------------------------
>
>From: DJohn77284@aol.com
>Date: Sun, 1 Sep 1996 03:06:22 -0400
>Subject: Re: Manifold conversions.
>
>Chris,
>
>One of my long term projects is also Renault V6 based although it's the
>lesser known R30.
>
>This has the K-Jetronic as well. My intension is to replace the mechanical
>injection with electronics injection along with going to distributorless
>ignition.

I don't know what you're trying to accomplish, but from my expierience the 
mechanical system is MUCH easier to work with, and reprogram, not to mention
cheaper. Personally if hardware were available that could handle the quantity
of air and fuel that I need, that's what I'd have. While the electronic systems
have some advantages, cost, and tuneability aren't one of them. Hopefully as
time
goes on this will cease to be the case.      


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep  1 19:48:51 1996
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Date: 01 Sep 96 15:46:10 EDT
From: Martin Evans <100341.377@CompuServe.COM>
To: DIY EFI Mailing List <DIY_EFI>
Subject: Re: Real time dyno
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Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com> wrote:

>tom cloud wrote:
>> 
>>My specific requirement has been to tune my current (Holley) EFI.
>>The Idle, Midrange, Accelerator Pump, and Choke adjustments are
>> simple enough.  It's the Power adjustment that's too darned
>> subjective for me.  I used my EGO (but it's probably deteriorated
>> with age -- ~ 14 years and 150,000 miles), and, of course, it tells
>> me I'm either rich or richer.  And frankly, I'm not one to want to
>> do a bunch of timed runs to find the optimum setting.  Seems to me
>> being able to adjust acceleration for a peak would be a good way
>> to adjust operation at WOT (understand I have a little more than
>> 4 or 5 seconds to work with here).
>> 
>> So, what's a J&S knock sensor?

>Get a good EGO sensor firts, then something that will tell you when
>you're in the 12.8 to 13.3 range, if you're running on Normal Gasoline
>and normally aspirated.  That will be you're peak power range.  Have
>never found a resource to tell me differently.
>If you calibrate for acceleration, you might burn the motor up before
>you find it.  Most engines like leaner settings to produce peak power,
>but they don't last long there.
>A J&S knock sensor is an aftermarket knock sensor unit that will
>intercept the ignition signal and alter it according to individual
>cylinder knock.  He's also got a monitor that will tell you how much
>each cylinder, or group, is retarding so you can go back and adjust your
>timing till no lights come on.  Works great for a calibration tool.
>Listed his phone and address for someone else in a previous post today.

The "previous post" hasn't appeared in any of the digests received this 
week. Can you please repost details of the J&S knock sensor?

Martin Evans
100341.377@compuserve.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep  1 20:41:31 1996
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From: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com (Garfield)
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #255
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 1996 20:39:39 GMT
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On Sun, 1 Sep 1996 12:20:47 -0700 (PDT), talltom <talltom@teleport.com>
wrote:

>........from my expierience the 
>mechanical system is MUCH easier to work with, and reprogram, not to mention
>cheaper. Personally if hardware were available that could handle the quantity
>of air and fuel that I need, that's what I'd have. While the electronic systems
>have some advantages, cost, and tuneability aren't one of them.

I know this is an "E"FI list, but since my interest stems from
aviation/reliability, I'd like to know all I can about the mechanical FI
systems also. Is it still used widely in automotive. Are pieces
available to build a system commercially? Sources (besides car parts
depts, of course)? Finally, is the assumption that the mechanical
systems are more reliable, a "reliable" assumption? Neophyte questions
from a neophyte.

Garfield

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep  1 23:01:13 1996
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At 11:54 AM 8/31/96 -0700, Sandy Ganz wrote:
>Man, I thought that I was bad with my Dual Pent pro's and 128 Meg. One thing
>that this is my home system... I can now play Pinball, _and_ read mail! I am

But you still type with two fingers like the rest of us, right?...

>just in the process of moving all my stuff off my old Dx2-66 and look
>forward to getting back to doing some PCB layout to finishing the EFI stuff.
>
>One thing is for sure, it is easy (and cheeper) to get computers to go fast!

Yeah, wherelse can you triple your horsepower for a few hundred bucks?

>>  Got a server system with 4 PPro's @ 200MHz, 4GB RAM, plus racks of SCSI
hard 
>>  disks; when do we start? :-)
>>  
>>  Todd  Todd_King@ccm.co.intel.com

We expect no less from someone whose address is intel.com...  BTW, when ARE
you'se guys coming out with that Hexium, anyway?



regards
dn
dnorquay@awinc.com


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From: Darrell Norquay <dnorquay@awinc.com>
Subject: Re: Sensor Wiring
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At 05:22 PM 8/30/96 -0400, John Alsina wrote:
> I want to use an LM34 three-terminal temperature sensor to measure engine 
>coolant temperature.  

The LM34 is kind of an odd bird.  If you need to measure negative
temperatures with it, you either have to have a bipolar supply or bias the
sensor above ground.  It doesn't like capacitive loads, since it is a
micropower circuit.
You can make a reasonably good 2 wire circuit that is relatively immune to
noise, but it won't measure below zero.  If you already have some of these,
use 'em, but there are better alternatives.  Check out the National
databook, there's a few applications in the data sheet.  They explain what
to do about capacitive loads and describe some 2 wire and negative temp
circuits, and do it better than I can.  If you don't have a databook, check
out the National Semiconductor webpages.  They have online datasheets, but
you need Adobe Acrobat to read them.

A better choice (IMHO) is the AD590 from Analog Devices.  It is a current
output device, and outputs 1uA per degree K (Kelvin, 0K = -273C), so at 0C
it puts out 273uA, and at 100C it puts out 373uA.  Use a 2 wire shielded
cable, carrying +5V on one wire and the current return from the sensor on
the other wire.  Run the return current through a resistor to ground, and
measure the voltage across the resistor.  Select the resistor to give you
10mV/deg C (10K ohms) if you run it on 5V.  If you run it off 12V, you can
increase the output voltage a bit, the sensor doesn't care if it has a
regulated supply or not, but, your offset increases as well and may be more
difficult to deal with.  Put a cap across the resistor if you need more
noise immunity, but the current loop style output is relatively immune to
noise anyway.

In either case, you'll need some gain and offset before the A/D converter to
bring the signal from the sensor to, say, 0-5V.  A differential input would
be useful to eliminate some of the noise, but not essential, and input
protection from accidental overvoltage is also wise.  I recommend an LM10
opamp/reference chip, these are extremely useful for this type of application. 

Use shielded twisted pair cable to connect to the sensor, ground the shield
ONLY at the engine block end.  DO NOT connect circuit ground to engine
ground.  Stuff the sensor (whatever you choose) and some of the cable into
some of that new heatshrink with the glue inside, this will shrink and seal
the whole thing so it's guaranteed waterproof. Put this into a small copper,
brass, or SS tube with one end sealed.  Use standard tube fittings to seal
the tube into a plug that will fit the manifold.

A third choice now exists, and I recommend it highly.  Dallas Semiconductor
has a really nifty series of serial temperature sensor chips.  Talk to them
directly by flapping a uP port bit, they get power right off the pullup
resistor on the port bit, Have 9 or 10 bit accuracy, and have virtually no
problem with noise.



regards
dn
dnorquay@awinc.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep  1 23:01:13 1996
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At 09:48 AM 8/30/96 -0500, tom cloud wrote:

>Don't know if anyone cares, but I was looking through some old postings
>and saw what dave wrote to me (above).  So, here are some musings
>about FORTH.

Aw c'mon, Tom, we all care, it's just a matter of degree...

> -- and there's other reasons I liked it, I think (there's two things that
>    go first as you get older, I just can't remember either of them
>    at the moment).

You know, I'll be damned if I can remember them either...  Have to ask the wife.
FORTH did seem to make sense when I looked into it before.  I have an IBM
FORTH interpreter? compiler? somewhere on my hard disk, mebbe it's time to
dust 'er off.  But, as always, it keeps getting reassigned to a lower
priority interrupt...

>The main reasons I didn't like it:
>
> -- No one made a product (I used a Z-80 product called StackWorks Forth)
>    that really worked like I wanted.  

>From what I've heard of NMI, they've improved the older stuff somewhat.
FORTH is one of those "dead" languages adored by the few and shunned by the
rest.

>  I guess if it ain't the BATF, it's the dreaded Software
>  Police.

God Save The NRA!  BTW, the RCMP up here does have a special unit dedicated
to software piracy, copyright infringement, and apprehension of people who
don't send in their registration cards.  They "unofficially" call themselves
the Software Police...

> -- Secondly (if that's a real word), FORTH code is known as
>    "write-only-code".  You'd better document carefully, because
>    even you won't be able to figure out what you did after the
>    program gets large and some time goes by.  

Doesn't this apply just as well to assembler?

>Oh well, just stirring the cauldron.

Sh*t disturber...



regards
dn
dnorquay@awinc.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  2 03:45:12 1996
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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 13:42:09 +1000
To: diy_efi
From: lambs@HOTBLK.dsto.defence.gov.au (Stephen Lamb)
Subject: L28E Injector size ??
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Can anyone tell me the injector size (in lb/hr) used in  Nissan L28E
engines (ie 280Z/ZX) ??
Are the Nippon Denso injectors colour-coded according to size in the same
way as Bosch injectors ??

TIA

Cheers

Stephen Lamb
Dept. of Defence DSTO, AMRL
506 Lorimer Street
Fishermans Bend  VIC  3207 Australia
Tel: +61 3 9626 7525
Fax: +61 3 9626 7089

IZCC #180



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  2 04:27:45 1996
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From: "Tony Bryant" <bryantt@psc.fp.co.nz>
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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 16:25:59 +1200
Subject: Re: L28E Injector size ??
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> Can anyone tell me the injector size (in lb/hr) used in  Nissan L28E
> engines (ie 280Z/ZX) ??
> Are the Nippon Denso injectors colour-coded according to size in the same
> way as Bosch injectors ??

Sorry, can't help you, but if anybody out there has a list of the
colours & sizes, please post it or point me to it.
***********************************************************
* "Insanity is the only sane response to an insane world" *
*                 >> bryantt@fp.co.nz <<                  *
***********************************************************

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  2 05:02:43 1996
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Date: Sun, 1 Sep 1996 22:00:44 -0700
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From: rickydik@ix.netcom.com (RD Rick)
Subject: Re: L28E Injector size ??
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>> Are the Nippon Denso injectors colour-coded according to size in the 
same>> way as Bosch injectors ??
>Sorry, can't help you, but if anybody out there has a list of the
>colours & sizes, please post it or point me to it.

Some early Bosch ones are:
VW 1.6L           (Djet) black
Porsche 914 1.7   (Djet) yellow
Porsche 914 1.8   (Ljet) gray
Porsche 912E 2.0  (Ljet) gray
Porsche 914 2.0   (Djet) green

Sorry, I don't know flow rates.

RD

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  2 08:01:41 1996
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To: DIY_EFI
From: pfontana@netline.totobit.it (fontana pasquale)
Subject: group buy pcb& chip
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HELLO TO ALL

I want to know where ,also how (by credit card it's possible?) , I can
purchase the pcb, for the efi ecu 68332 based cpu and relative BDM , the
'special chip':

 MC68332acfc20 
 AM29f010-120JC 5v eeprom
 821949-5 -  bottom part of 68332 socket
 821942-1 .

It's possible by a group if exist?

Thanks for "those helpers" .



PASQUALE            
                 ***
                **                \||/
              *    *<nigth&day>   ('') 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  2 08:07:02 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: pfontana@netline.totobit.it (fontana pasquale)
Subject: Re: knock sensor
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Hello Todd, David,Ricky & CO.

I'm very interested about a knock sensor for to installing in a

 self-tuning EFI system.

Can you say me where i can purchase any do you claims ??? 


Thanks for "those helpers" .



PASQUALE            
                 ***
                **                \||/
              *    *<nigth&day>   ('') 


>Todd wrote: 
>>
>>Once Again:
>>	J&S Electronics
>>	(714) 534-6975
>>	13925 parkway Drive
>>	Garden Grove, Ca 92643
>>
>>Talk to John, and tell him, Todd from Protomotive sent me.  He's got a
>>great product.  His knock sensor will integrate with everything shy of
>>distributorless and he's probably working on that as well.
>
>In his 1992 book, Dr.(?) Jacobs claims that knock sensors jump the 
>timing back six degrees, and it takes some time to recover to optimum.  
>Meanwhile, an acceleration, like to pass a car, is over with.  He says 
>a dashboard-mounted timing control, which he happens to sell, gives 
>better results.  Comments?
>RD
>
>>David Redpath wrote:
>
>>> I'm new to the group and probably covering old ground,
>>> but here goes :-
>
>>> I'm interested in hooking up a knock sensor to monitor my engine.
>>> Does anybody have information and/or prototype circuits ?
>
>
>


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  2 15:14:06 1996
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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 11:05:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: Thor Johnson <johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu>
To: DIY EFI Maillist <diy_efi>
Subject: FI sizes/Alcohol questions
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Could someone mail me a list of Injector part#'s/sizes ?   All we havve 
around here are Western Auto people who can't look up a part unless you 
tell them the make/model of car or a part #.  I am trying to outfit our 
Formula SAE car for alcohol (~6:1, right), now I just need to find the 
correct size injectors.

  Do I have to get a special fuel pump for alcohol (b/c of lubricity), or 
can I use a gas model (longevity not a factor here).

TIA,

                Thor Johnson
       johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu
   http://falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu/~johnsont
                                                    
         Have you seen the WarpMap lately?                    
 http://falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu/~johnsont/warpmap  



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  2 16:38:04 1996
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>I know this is an "E"FI list, but since my interest stems from
>aviation/reliability, I'd like to know all I can about the mechanical FI
>systems also. Is it still used widely in automotive. Are pieces
>available to build a system commercially? Sources (besides car parts
>depts, of course)? Finally, is the assumption that the mechanical
>systems are more reliable, a "reliable" assumption? Neophyte questions
>from a neophyte.
>
>Garfield

Well most europeeon cars used them from in the early 70's thru mid-late 80's.
Can't say about the availability of commercial parts, but can tell you that 
you'd better be able to find a distributor head/air cone combo that can 
approximate your supply needs else you have to do redesign that's not
worthwhile.
There may be aviation systems similar out there, but I'd bet price is 
ridicoulous. I don't think mechanical systems are more reliable in the 
whole picture. They need proper care and maintenance and are very
unforgiving to abuse. Bad fuel, setting unused, and wear on finely machined
parts all will
do them in. With proper use and maintenance they are dependable though.
Just higher in maintenance. Naturally aspirated I'd rather have a carburetor,
as I don't like high maintenance anything.
   I still believe that the efi concept is the best, just getting one to work
in configurations other than stock, or in the case of some even stock.(Bosch
d-jetronic brain-$1400, Cadillac $800) The way I understand it I'm one of 
probably 12 people on the face of the earth with a bosch d-jetronic that
doesn't work!(everything I own that's electronic has something wrong with 
it)     


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  2 16:38:07 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: talltom <talltom@teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Knock sensors
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Have to say that I've seen "Dr. Jacobs" advertise so much stuff that sounded
flakey, I'd personally have to ride in the before and after and watch the 
proceedure to believe it.

  I did a Corvette with a turbo on it and used a old buick spark retard
system, and while it worked, I wasn't really very happy with it. It would
retard 3 degrees for every clatter it didn't like, and hold it for 20-60
seconds. The problem was that it was inconsistent, back to back runs would
vary widely. In fact one day it decided to run harder than it had previous
and fried the tires hitting second. The result being the rear end stepped 
out to the left and the car climbed the curb to teh demise of the right
front corner.
  My question is what kind of expieriences have others had with knock 
retard systems? I'd think that by now this would have been refined some.

 

>Sounds like BS from the Doctor.
>No decent system is going to retard 6deg at the first instance of knock.
>
>I agree with Todd, the J&S is a good system.
>No time for messin with knobs while pushing the envelope in a
>fast car.
>
>Fred
>
>>In his 1992 book, Dr.(?) Jacobs claims that knock sensors jump the 
>>timing back six degrees, and it takes some time to recover to optimum.  
>>Meanwhile, an acceleration, like to pass a car, is over with.  He says 
>>a dashboard-mounted timing control, which he happens to sell, gives 
>>better results.  Comments?
>



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  2 17:08:06 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Ancient History
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 10:06:26 -0700
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Am new to this mailing list, but have been thinking about this for years. 
Several years ago I drove a 1966 Chevelle with a 350 V-8 that had
neck-snapping acceleration and excellent all-around drivablity. Belonged to
a young machinist I took an aluminum head in to have a crack welded on. 
Asked his secret - and was amazed.

Seems he took an older, off the shelf Hilborn mechanical fuel injection,
modified it slightly and put it on the engine.  Hold the objections, rumors
and myths till I finish.

He drilled the heads so that the untimed variable flow injector sprayed
directly on the intake valve from the back side of the valve pocket.  What
was lacking in mechanical sophistication was made up in simple physics.

Liquid fuel does not burn - period.  It must be vaporized before it burns.
All forms of carboration - including fuel injection - atomize the fuel
hoping enough vapor will be formed to start combustion so that the heat and
violence of combustion will finish the job.  Power and fuel efficiency are
directly related to how well that is done.

Gasoline and air, when mixed has an broad range of combustion, from a 12 to
one mixture for power to a 19 to one mixture for economy. The secret is how
well it is vaporized and atomized prior to combustion.

>From a vaporization point of view, gasoline has components that boil
(vaporize) at temperatures from room temp to about 540 degrees F.  Smokey
once built and patented an engine that heated the intake mixture to this
point and made amazing power and efficiency for NASCAR engines.  The fuel
-puddling on an intake valve has its temp raised several hundred degrees -
without heating the incoming air charge. More fuel vaporized probably than
even the most modern injectors achieve - by merely dumping it on the
hottest spot in the intake system. Plus fuel vaporizing had to cool the
valve - so even less heat added to the air mass - meaning a denser fuel air
charge to the cylinder.

Next, from an atomization point of view,  the unvaporized gasoline
components and fresh fuel were injected at the point where there is the
maximum turbulence and violence in the air flow - the seat of the intake
valve.  Cold dry air to the port, fuel in at the valve seat itself - no
drop out problems period. Not mechanically possible to mix it much finer.

With simple tuning and good physics, this crude system worked very well
indeed. The extremely high quality fuel-air charge made up for much of the
mixture variations that this simple system had and made a very responsive,
decent fuel economy street engine.

No moral to this story, just food for thought.  On my DIY conversion I am
thinking about, I plan to put my injectors in the valve pocket if at all
possible for all of the above.  Only thing better would be to steal a
diesel injector and squirt the fuel directly into the chamber against both
intake and exhaust.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  2 17:56:30 1996
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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 1996 19:58:54 +0200
From: Niels Ezerman <nez@cybernet.dk>
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Hello all,

I know this is not the right topic for this group,
but i hope it ok this time, i think maybe some of you could help.

For a friend with a Fiat X1/9 race car we are searching the
following items:

For the Roto Master turbo, type TU4S we need:
Shaft, spare # 408337-2
Center house, spare # 430027-57
And a repair kit.

If the above is not available, then for the type S4:
Shaft, spare # 104011

Do you know a address, phone, fax or anything we would be very pleased.

Thanks,
Niels Ezerman
Silkeborg, Denmark.
nez@cybernet.dk
[http://www.cybernet.dk/users/nez/]

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  2 18:01:18 1996
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Date: Mon, 02 Sep 1996 11:01:45 +0000
From: Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>
Organization: Protomotive Engineering
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Tom,
	My first question is, how tall are you really?!? ha, ha.

	I've found that if I run the ignition timing too close to the limit on
the dyno that the knock sensors hit, the runs will be very
inconsistent.  But if the engine is set up properly, and the knock
sensors never need to do any thing then the engine performs well and
consistently.
	Knock sensors are for worst case scenario's.  Bad gas, carbon buildup,
impropper octane, exceedingly high temperatures.  I've never found a
system that works well enough to let it run on the sensors.
	We use the knock sensors with the monitor from J&S to tune the engine
till there is no more knock showing, not to leave it run on it.  A
properly calibrated engine should never see knock anyway!

Todd Knighton
Protomotive Engineering

talltom wrote:
> 
> Have to say that I've seen "Dr. Jacobs" advertise so much stuff that sounded
> flakey, I'd personally have to ride in the before and after and watch the
> proceedure to believe it.
> 
>   I did a Corvette with a turbo on it and used a old buick spark retard
> system, and while it worked, I wasn't really very happy with it. It would
> retard 3 degrees for every clatter it didn't like, and hold it for 20-60
> seconds. The problem was that it was inconsistent, back to back runs would
> vary widely. In fact one day it decided to run harder than it had previous
> and fried the tires hitting second. The result being the rear end stepped
> out to the left and the car climbed the curb to teh demise of the right
> front corner.
>   My question is what kind of expieriences have others had with knock
> retard systems? I'd think that by now this would have been refined some.
> 
>

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  2 19:18:35 1996
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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 12:06:45 -0700
Message-Id: <199609021906.MAA22311@dfw-ix7.ix.netcom.com>
From: rickydik@ix.netcom.com (RD Rick)
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #256
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talltom wrote: 

>... The way I understand it I'm one of probably 12 people on the face 
>of the earth with a bosch d-jetronic that doesn't work!(everything I 
>own that's electronic has something wrong with it)     

I may be able to help you, Tom.  I have a Djet tester, 17 years of 
driving Djet 914's, lots of spares, psuedo-schematics, oscilloscope, 
etc., and a distributor machine to do dynamic things.
What is the nature of your problem?

RD

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  2 19:36:13 1996
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From: rickydik@ix.netcom.com (RD Rick)
Subject: Re: Ancient History
To: diy_efi
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RJ Harris wrote on diy_efi: 

>Am new to this mailing list, but have been thinking about this for 
years. >Several years ago I drove a 1966 Chevelle with a 350 V-8 that 
had>neck-snapping acceleration and excellent all-around drivablity. 
Belonged to>a young machinist I took an aluminum head in to have a 
crack welded on. >Asked his secret - and was amazed.
>
>Seems he took an older, off the shelf Hilborn mechanical fuel 
injection,>modified it slightly and put it on the engine.  Hold the 
objections, rumors>and myths till I finish.
>
>He drilled the heads so that the untimed variable flow injector 
sprayed>directly on the intake valve from the back side of the valve 
pocket.  What>was lacking in mechanical sophistication was made up in 
simple physics.
>
>Liquid fuel does not burn - period.  It must be vaporized before it 
burns.
>All forms of carboration - including fuel injection - atomize the fuel
>hoping enough vapor will be formed to start combustion so that the 
heat and>violence of combustion will finish the job.  Power and fuel 
efficiency are>directly related to how well that is done.
>
>Gasoline and air, when mixed has an broad range of combustion, from a 
12 to>one mixture for power to a 19 to one mixture for economy. The 
secret is how>well it is vaporized and atomized prior to combustion.
>
>From a vaporization point of view, gasoline has components that boil
>(vaporize) at temperatures from room temp to about 540 degrees F.  
Smokey>once built and patented an engine that heated the intake mixture 
to this>point and made amazing power and efficiency for NASCAR engines. 
 The fuel>-puddling on an intake valve has its temp raised several 
hundred degrees ->without heating the incoming air charge. More fuel 
vaporized probably than>even the most modern injectors achieve - by 
merely dumping it on the>hottest spot in the intake system. Plus fuel 
vaporizing had to cool the>valve - so even less heat added to the air 
mass - meaning a denser fuel air>charge to the cylinder.
>
>Next, from an atomization point of view,  the unvaporized gasoline
>components and fresh fuel were injected at the point where there is 
the>maximum turbulence and violence in the air flow - the seat of the 
intake>valve.  Cold dry air to the port, fuel in at the valve seat 
itself - no>drop out problems period. Not mechanically possible to mix 
it much finer.
>
>With simple tuning and good physics, this crude system worked very 
well>indeed. The extremely high quality fuel-air charge made up for 
much of the>mixture variations that this simple system had and made a 
very responsive,>decent fuel economy street engine.
>
>No moral to this story, just food for thought.  On my DIY conversion I 
am>thinking about, I plan to put my injectors in the valve pocket if at 
all>possible for all of the above.  Only thing better would be to steal 
a>diesel injector and squirt the fuel directly into the chamber against 
both>intake and exhaust.

Very good information there; thanks.

The Djet and Ljet EFI in the aircooled opposed VW and Porsche 914 
engines sprays directly at the intake valve from three inches away.

With the Djet, the fuel is squirted in at the beginning of the intake 
stroke two of the cyls, and at the beginning of the power stroke on the 
other two cyls, so its operation is compromised.  

People on the 914fans lists have been debating the injector timing 
question, so your post is being forwarded there.  Hope you don't mind.

RD

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  2 20:37:16 1996
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From: "Tony Bryant" <bryantt@psc.fp.co.nz>
Organization: Fisher & Paykel PSC
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 08:25:44 +1200
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #256
Priority: normal
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> >I know this is an "E"FI list, but since my interest stems from
> >aviation/reliability, I'd like to know all I can about the mechanical FI
> >systems also. Is it still used widely in automotive. Are pieces
> >available to build a system commercially? Sources (besides car parts
> >depts, of course)? Finally, is the assumption that the mechanical
> >systems are more reliable, a "reliable" assumption? Neophyte questions
> >from a neophyte.
> >

How about the real mechanical FI systems? Like off a '69 Mercedes coupe. 
No I'm not talking about K-Jet, I talking something that looks like a 
diesel fuel pump/distributor. I've only seen it in a workshop manual. 

Anybody with any experience with these, care to comment?

***********************************************************
* "Insanity is the only sane response to an insane world" *
*                 >> bryantt@fp.co.nz <<                  *
***********************************************************

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  2 20:58:13 1996
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From: "Tony Bryant" <bryantt@psc.fp.co.nz>
Organization: Fisher & Paykel PSC
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 08:53:10 +1200
Subject: Re: Ancient History
CC: 914@giza.estinc.comPorscheFans-914@ioio.com
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<snip>
> >
> >With simple tuning and good physics, this crude system worked very 
> well>indeed. The extremely high quality fuel-air charge made up for 
> much of the>mixture variations that this simple system had and made a 
> very responsive,>decent fuel economy street engine.
> >
> >No moral to this story, just food for thought.  On my DIY conversion I 
> am>thinking about, I plan to put my injectors in the valve pocket if at 
> all>possible for all of the above.  Only thing better would be to steal 
> a>diesel injector and squirt the fuel directly into the chamber against 
> both>intake and exhaust.
> 
> Very good information there; thanks.
> 
> The Djet and Ljet EFI in the aircooled opposed VW and Porsche 914 
> engines sprays directly at the intake valve from three inches away.
> 
> With the Djet, the fuel is squirted in at the beginning of the intake 
> stroke two of the cyls, and at the beginning of the power stroke on the 
> other two cyls, so its operation is compromised.  
> 
> People on the 914fans lists have been debating the injector timing 
> question, so your post is being forwarded there.  Hope you don't mind.
> 
> RD
>
 
What I want to know, is what happens when you have radical
cam timing? This nice puddle of fuel on the inlet valve
gets blown back up the inlet duct when the valve opens?
Makes nice flames, if you don't run an air cleaner :-) 
But this surely can't make for repeatable fuel volume supplied
to the cylinder?

comments?

***********************************************************
* There'll be no more misery      * I came, I saw, I left *
* When the world's our rotisserie *  > bryantt@fp.co.nz < *
***********************************************************

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  2 23:39:58 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Ancient History
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 16:38:08 -0700
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Remember the Reichstag

----------
> From: Tony Bryant <bryantt@psc.fp.co.nz>
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Cc: 914@giza.estinc.comPorscheFans-914@ioio.com
> Subject: Re: Ancient History
> Date: Monday, September 02, 1996 1:53 PM
> 
> <snip>
> > The Djet and Ljet EFI in the aircooled opposed VW and Porsche 914 
> > engines sprays directly at the intake valve from three inches away.
> > 
> > With the Djet, the fuel is squirted in at the beginning of the intake 
> > stroke two of the cyls, and at the beginning of the power stroke on the

> > other two cyls, so its operation is compromised.  
> > 
> > People on the 914fans lists have been debating the injector timing 
> > question, so your post is being forwarded there.  Hope you don't mind.
> > 
> > RD
> >
>  
> What I want to know, is what happens when you have radical
> cam timing? This nice puddle of fuel on the inlet valve
> gets blown back up the inlet duct when the valve opens?
> Makes nice flames, if you don't run an air cleaner :-) 
> But this surely can't make for repeatable fuel volume supplied
> to the cylinder?
> 
> comments?
> 
> ***********************************************************
> * There'll be no more misery      * I came, I saw, I left *
> * When the world's our rotisserie *  > bryantt@fp.co.nz < *
> ***********************************************************

Prior to cheap timing electronics, untimed fuel injection was 
the normal way.  Timing is merely the thinnest icing on the cake.
Alcohol fueled indy car engines screamed for hours at high RPM 
and dirt track sprint cars make 700+ horsepower from 400 ci engines
on alcohol using Hilborn type units. Modern AA fuel dragsters make
pushing 4000 horsepower with nitro fuel using Hilborn type units. 
World land speed records are routinely set at Bonneville Salt Flats
with these primitive systems. Weber carbed formula racing and even 
street engines made incredible horse power per cubic inch without the
benefit of timing.

In every case - the higher the quality the mixture - the higher 
the performance. Untimed fuel injection's have reliably repeatably
routinely 
made enormous amounts of power, with from mild to wild cam timing, with
fuels varying from gasoline to liquid dynamite.  Made it with the
consistency
needed to win races in virtually every category imaginable. 

This is not theory, this is proven fact that you can see every race day.
The
basic modification he made was move the location of the injector to what 
appears to be the optimum point.  

On every engine - a small portion of exhaust gas is pulsed into the 
intake manifold the amount depending on cam timing, load, and engine
RPM.  This is then sucked back into the cylinder diluting the charge. 
For you old timers, this is why you must richen a carb when putting 
headers on an engine - because the reversion pulse is damped - leaving
less flow thru the carb (the first pulse backwards - followed by the normal
forward pulse.)  Untimed fuel systems have a fuel air mixture that is 
pushed backwards up the manifold (reverted) before being sucked back
in.  As this is very hot gas with no oxygen present (e.g. no flame!!) and 
lots of CO2, and this hot gas is quenched by contact with relatively cold 
(far below ignition temperature) matter in the intake tract - cold mixture 
cold intake valve, cold head, all that happens thru almost all ranges of
performance is charge dilution and therefore less than theoretical power
is developed.  Aside - a very rich fuel mixture such as present when 
fuel is "puddled" on the valve is not combustible. A lean - i.e. 
minimally vaporized mixture such as from a mistuned carb or timed
injector is explosive!!

What timed fuel injection in conjunction with proper cam timing does is
allow this reversion pulse to go up and come back out the exhaust port
before adding fuel to the incoming air.  Properly done, no air pump is 
needed for the cat converter as the reverted air pulse shoves oxygen 
out the exhaust.  The chamber gets a full, dense properly mixed charge
and makes better power, fuel efficiency and lower emissions.  

In all endeavors we tend to forget what has worked and is working in our 
efforts to achieve the new.  We get enamored with new technology and 
scorn the old.  We should instead - understand the baseline from where
we want to go and use that to our advantage.  Use only from the new what
is needed to solve the unsolvable with the old - progress - not perfection.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 02:40:59 1996
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From: MaxBoost@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 22:38:31 -0400
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: L28E Injector size ??
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Reply-To: diy_efi

The injector flow rate for the 280ZX non-turbo is 185 cc/min and is very
common.

The turbo flows 259 cc/min.

Max.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 05:45:06 1996
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Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 22:42:18 -0700
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From: rickydik@ix.netcom.com (RD Rick)
Subject: Re: Ancient History, and Djet and cams
To: diy_efi
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Reply-To: diy_efi

I wrote: 
>> The Djet and Ljet EFI in the aircooled opposed VW and Porsche 914 
>> engines sprays directly at the intake valve from three inches away.
>> With the Djet, the fuel is squirted in at the beginning of the 
intake >> stroke two of the cyls, and at the beginning of the power 
stroke on the >> other two cyls, so its operation is compromised.  

Correcting myself here:  fuel squirts at beginning of intake stroke on 
two cyl, and beginning of exhaust stroke on the other two.  
Note: injector duration at Op Temp, WOT, 6,000 rpm, is 8.3 ms, while 
the valve is open only 5 ms.

Bryantt piped up from down under:
>What I want to know, is what happens when you have radical
>cam timing? This nice puddle of fuel on the inlet valve
>gets blown back up the inlet duct when the valve opens?
>Makes nice flames, if you don't run an air cleaner :-) 
>But this surely can't make for repeatable fuel volume supplied
>to the cylinder?
>comments?

My '73 914 just happens to have a high lift cam with a lot of overlap.  
It won't idle decent below about 2000 rpm.  To pass a smog check, I set 
the lifters out to .030", and then it idles fine.  Clatters like hell.  
I've never had backfires with it.

An additional problem is the low vacuum, about 12", below 2000 with 
that engine.  The Djet responds to low vacuum by squirting more fuel, 
which makes it richer until it dies.  I have found a fix for the ECU to 
alter the fuel curve, but haven't tried it in the car yet.

RD

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 09:20:51 1996
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Date: 03 Sep 96 05:13:26 EDT
From: David Redpath <101513.357@CompuServe.COM>
To: DIY_EFI <diy_efi>
Subject: EFI332 home page
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Is the EFI332 home page operational ?

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 10:13:46 1996
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Date: Tue, 03 Sep 96 18:08:38 
Message-Id: <9608038417.AA841799318@afcperth.aesprodata.com.au>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re[2]: Newer VATS Vehicles
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     Why not just carry a spare computer, unplug the original, plug the 
     other in and off you go.


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Newer VATS Vehicles
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
Date:    8/30/96 12:40 PM


> What about the next year, after the thieves figured out how to get around 
it?
> After all, if guys on the list can do it, so can anyone with enough 
> technical knowledge.
     
Technical knowledge is great but it doesn't necessarily give you time to 
defeat it. The guys here that have cracked it have done it one of two ways. 
Either by trying each of 15 resistor values until it unlocked (with a 3-4 
minute delay between each try) or by hacking the PROM which requires 
removing the computer, pulling the CalPak, removing the PROM, downloading 
it, editing it, blowing a new PROM and putting it all back together again. 
A thief just doesn't have the time to do all of this. He might be able to 
carry a spare CalPak with a modified PROM already in it but even if the 
thief decides to concentrate on a Corvettes there are about 8 different 
CalPaks he would have to carry. It still easier to use a tow truck or steal 
the keys.
     
John Faubion
jfaubion@beaches.net

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 11:13:24 1996
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 21:09:41 +1000 (EST)
From: Jeremy Pronk <jpronk@st.nepean.uws.edu.au>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Jump starting an EFI car?
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Hi,

I am mainly a lurker on this list, but I should be getting a car with 
aftermarket EFI to play around with soon.

Anyway, this morning the next door neighbour needed a jump start, and I 
remembered hearing somewhere that jumping starting an car with EFI can 
burn out the ECU? If so, what is safe method, and how does it actually 
get burnt out (I would like to learn)?

regards,

Jeremy, Sydney AUS
'69 510 4dr

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 13:01:58 1996
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 08:28:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Ancient History
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On Mon, 2 Sep 1996, Robert J. Harris wrote:
> 
> Liquid fuel does not burn - period.  It must be vaporized before it burns.
> All forms of carboration - including fuel injection - atomize the fuel
> hoping enough vapor will be formed to start combustion so that the heat and
> violence of combustion will finish the job.  Power and fuel efficiency are
> directly related to how well that is done.

Um, sorry. Gasoline vapor explodes, it does not burn. Liqiud gasoline 
burns. Gasoline vapor ignited in a combustion chamber will cause 
detonation, which is highly undesirable. The spark ignites atomized 
gasoline droplets as they pass through the spark plug gap during the end 
of the compression stroke. The transformation of liquid gasoline droplets 
into hot exhaust gases by the process of combustion is what pushes 
against the piston during the power stroke. Gasoline vapor is not what is 
desired. What is desired is extremely fine gasoline droplets of uniform 
size. This is where fuel injection is superior to carburation. The 
droplets are more uniform with fuel injection than they are with 
carburation. 

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 13:08:32 1996
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 08:37:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #256
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On Tue, 3 Sep 1996, Tony Bryant wrote:
> > >
> 
> How about the real mechanical FI systems? Like off a '69 Mercedes coupe. 
> No I'm not talking about K-Jet, I talking something that looks like a 
> diesel fuel pump/distributor. I've only seen it in a workshop manual. 
> 
> Anybody with any experience with these, care to comment?

There was a SPICA system on my old '74 Alfe Romero that looked like 
that. I did figure out how to adjust it, but of course, I was too 
unimformed at the time to buy the shop manual. As I understand it, they 
use very high pressure to the injectors. Higher pressure would make for 
finer atomization if the nozzle is designed right. Of course, the 
BMW2002tii used Kugel-Fischer (sp?) mechanical injection. I'm guessing, 
but I think most electronic FI use lower pressures because it would take 
too much electrical current to unseat the pintle of the injector in order 
to open it. 

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 13:14:43 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Ancient History
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On Tue, 3 Sep 1996, Tony Bryant wrote:
> >
>  
> What I want to know, is what happens when you have radical
> cam timing? This nice puddle of fuel on the inlet valve
> gets blown back up the inlet duct when the valve opens?
> Makes nice flames, if you don't run an air cleaner :-) 
> But this surely can't make for repeatable fuel volume supplied
> to the cylinder?

As Ralph pointed out, the vacuum goes down at lower rpm due to valve 
overlap. A vacuum responsive FI would make the mixture too rich for the 
engine to run. I think carburators are more tolerant of this low vacuum 
at low rpm because they are passive devices and because they are less 
precise in fuel metering.


****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 13:15:20 1996
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 96 09:29 GMT-3:00
From: prebuf@fing.edu.uy (Pablo Rebufello - CECAL - )
To: diy_efi
Subject: INFO to develop a software
Cc: prebuf@fing.edu.uy
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Reply-To: diy_efi

Hi!

I'm new in this list.  I got a degree in Computer Science, and my brother works
as a mechanic.  I'm planning to develop a software to manage and visualize
the data (I/O) to full control the EFI, and everything else that could be 
read from a computer.  But I need information about de EFI, and any 
electronical sensor.  I know it depens on the car, but at least I have to 
try with just one at the beginning.  What I need is:
- protocol of comunication from/to the devices.
- how the data is transmitted from/to the device, as well as description of 
the data to send/receive from/to the device to be read/write from/to the
computer.

I know I'm asking for a lot of information, so anything will help.  Source of
information such as books, internet address, etc will help much.

Thank you!!

Pablo Rebufello
prebuf@fing.edu.uy

URUGUAY - South America

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 14:17:50 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: K_knock sensor
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Reply-To: diy_efi

I don't do the race circuit, only want to go fast some times
and just drive the others.  The way I tune my toy is to set the
advance until I get a little rattling on long hills on hot days
(we have some of both of those) and back it off a little.

So, Todd, or anyone else who cares to chip in, what's wrong
widdat?

tom cloud



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 14:39:44 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Data/Spec. Sheets
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Reply-To: diy_efi

There seems to be a lot of ill-informed discussion on this group
regarding various sensors, etc.  I'm not putting anyone down,
as I do the same thing.  Seems like many of us suffer from the
same malady -- a lack of data on the components in our systems.

Can anyone shed light on where to get data on the various transducers
used in EFI systems?  (esp. EGA, MAP, MAF, etc.)

I would like to find data on specific auto makers' components.  They
obviously have the data and I cannot see any reason why they would care
if individuals have it -- can't be trade secret.  Their engineers have
to have access to it.  It's gotta be published somewhere.

Maybe Ed Hernandez (where'd he go?) could comment on where to get
this data from Ford (and, yes, I do have a MotorSport book on EFI
and Emissions, but it only gives 'typical' data).

Can anyone help ?  (Todd ?)

Thanks,
Tom Cloud


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 15:13:02 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Ancient History, and Djet and cams
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 08:04:45 -0700
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Reply-To: diy_efi

Remember the Reichstag

----------
> From: RD Rick <rickydik@ix.netcom.com>
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: Ancient History, and Djet and cams
> Date: Monday, September 02, 1996 10:42 PM
> 
> Correcting myself here:  fuel squirts at beginning of intake stroke on 
> two cyl, and beginning of exhaust stroke on the other two.  
> Note: injector duration at Op Temp, WOT, 6,000 rpm, is 8.3 ms, while 
> the valve is open only 5 ms.
> 

Note for the timed/untimed discussion - the injector is pushing fuel for
far longer
than the valve is open.  At this point, the question is moot.  To have
enough
fuel to make power in this region, it must store fuel by puddling it on the
valve and waiting for the inrush of air to finish mixing it.  When it
stores it 
there is of no consequence.

The closer to the cylinder the fuel is injected the less the mixture
problems.
Sequential port fuel injection kicks butt over throttle body primarily
because
it generates a higher quality mixture that is more closely tuned to the
engine.
It starts with an unfair advantage because it eliminates all the
complications
and compromises of moving a gas/liquid mixture thru plumbing and instead
deals with an air only system.

Enough about timing - anyway works - get the mixture right and run.  Take
maximum advantage of the mechanical properties that you can. Leaves 
less for the control system to solve. GMC roots mechanical positive 
displacement 6-71 superchargers make monsterous horsepower yet the 
whole high pressure fuel air charge comes out of the blower totally 
asynchronous with regard to valve openings and cylinder filling
and it has worked very well for 40 years of racing and street!!!!!.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 15:32:51 1996
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From: Jens Knickmeyer <knick@ibr.cs.tu-bs.de>
Message-Id: <199609031514.RAA20055@ares.ibr.cs.tu-bs.de>
Subject: ISO-9141
To: DIY_EFI (EFI Mailing List)
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 17:14:00 +0200 (MET DST)
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Hi all!

Are there chips available for the ISO9141 standard? Anything would
be welcome, from pure electrical interfaces to controllers which have
parts of the protocol on chip. 

Thanks,

Jens ('92 VW Polo-G40)


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 15:47:41 1996
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Date: 03 Sep 96 11:14:12 EDT
From: David Redpath <101513.357@CompuServe.COM>
To: DIY_EFI <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: FORTH
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I've seen a few postings recently about FORTH, I've done a fair bit 
of programming in FORTH, so as my first contribution here goes :-

The microcontroller we used was an Hitachi H8, the original
development board was from a company called
Triangle Digital Services, they are in the UK and
have a distributor in America I believe. Their development
system came with lots of developed code, everthing from a 
multi-tasking kernel, Fast Fourier Transformation code,
A-D software, multiple LCD screens, PWM outputs etc.

It was very well supported, and might could well be a good basis
for a EFI controller. ( I guess ).

Also a book I bought called 'Forth - the new model'
came with a disk with a FORTH compiler/interpreter on it.
which run on a PC. So for learning Forth that might be a good
starting point.
( I could found out the ISBN if required. )

Hope some of that is of some relevance.



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 16:37:50 1996
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From: Arnaldo Echevarria <aec@ao.net>
Subject: Re: Ancient History
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>On every engine - a small portion of exhaust gas is pulsed into the 
>intake manifold the amount depending on cam timing, load, and engine
>RPM.  This is then sucked back into the cylinder diluting the charge. 
>For you old timers, this is why you must richen a carb when putting 
>headers on an engine - because the reversion pulse is damped - leaving
>less flow thru the carb (the first pulse backwards - followed by the normal
>forward pulse.)  Untimed fuel systems have a fuel air mixture that is 
>pushed backwards up the manifold (reverted) before being sucked back
>in.  As this is very hot gas with no oxygen present (e.g. no flame!!) and 
>lots of CO2, and this hot gas is quenched by contact with relatively cold 
>(far below ignition temperature) matter in the intake tract - cold mixture 
>cold intake valve, cold head, all that happens thru almost all ranges of
>performance is charge dilution and therefore less than theoretical power
>is developed.  Aside - a very rich fuel mixture such as present when 
>fuel is "puddled" on the valve is not combustible. A lean - i.e. 
>minimally vaporized mixture such as from a mistuned carb or timed
>injector is explosive!!
>
>What timed fuel injection in conjunction with proper cam timing does is
>allow this reversion pulse to go up and come back out the exhaust port
>before adding fuel to the incoming air.  Properly done, no air pump is 
>needed for the cat converter as the reverted air pulse shoves oxygen 
>out the exhaust.  The chamber gets a full, dense properly mixed charge
>and makes better power, fuel efficiency and lower emissions.  
>
Could someone elaborate more on this?  Excuse my ignorance, but I'm trying to
learn more about combustion theory.  I've been hot rodding cars for years 
now and have played with different carb / efi setups, but I'm trying to learn
a little more on what "really" goes on (as in good techniques vs bad techniques
of getting fuel to burn using injectors or throttle bodies etc).  What I'm going
to build (no laughs, please) is a fuel efficient pontiac 455 (If that ever
existed) using some sort of fuel injection. Right now the car runs low 13's
in the quarter
and gets 12mpg (city) using a Quadrajet 750cfm; I want to improve that to
15-17mpg.
I think the cheapest way to go is to use a tri-power manifold and hook up three
2barrel tbi's. I'm pretty good with building microcontrollers so now I'm just
trying to decide a baseline by which the fuel injectors will fire (before
tdc? during?
after? during exhaust cycle too? in between? how long?) Of course I cannot get
specific numbers, each engine is different, but I'm just trying to get an
idea on
how to approach the problem.  The system will be a closed loop using o2
sensors and
a map sensor (small cam, good vacuum).

I'm interested to learn more about when should I inject fuel for best power
and when 
should I do so for best efficiency.  It seems that a Hillborn system just dumps
fuel and fuel guaranteeing full combustion but at the expense of efficiency.
I have so many questions but no words to put them together; I guess I'm just
looking for a little "knowledge".

>In all endeavors we tend to forget what has worked and is working in our 
>efforts to achieve the new.  We get enamored with new technology and 
>scorn the old.  We should instead - understand the baseline from where
>we want to go and use that to our advantage.  Use only from the new what
>is needed to solve the unsolvable with the old - progress - not perfection.
>
I totally agree.

Arnaldo E.
aec@ao.net



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 16:38:41 1996
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Date: Tue, 03 Sep 1996 12:34:16 -0400
From: "Edward C. Hernandez" <ehernan3@ford.com>
Organization: V engine, Components B Department
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Subject: Really long water injection post, $0.04 worth
References: <9607192140.AA8166@knotes.Kodak.com> <31F1C8A2.7578@murlin.com> <31F1E5E2.6E52@rt66.com>
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>...an article involving water injection to reduce detonation.  My >question is: What happened to this wonderful idea?  I saw an ad toward >the back of the magazine in which Edelbrock that was selling their >Vari-Injection

I've been running my Vari-Jection unit for 6 years without problems.

> If you forget to keep the tank filled and you don't have sophisticated >controls to either tell you of this or to shut the advance curve down >to stock when there is no injection taking place, you will cause >yourself a problem....

I just include this in my list of fluid levels to check, like how much
gas do I have...

>Octane rating has *nothing* to do with how fast the fuel burns.  An
>octane rating is a measure of an engine's resistance to detonation...

No, octane rating measures a FUEL's resistance to detonation.

>Flame front speed is very similar for all gasolines regardless of >octane rating.

That depends on what you call similar. Different octane fuels do, in
fact, burn at different rates. How important that is depnds on how well
calibrated the seat of your pants is or how important that last 0.01 in
the 1/4 mile is.

>Water does not slow the combustion process.  Its primary function is to
>reduce the intake charge and combustion chamber temperatures, which >help the engine avoid detonation.

No, it's primary function is to asborb some of the heat of combustion,
reducing peak in-cyulinder temperatures, which improves the knock limit.
Driving a phase change of water(ie, liquid to steam) takes a lot of
energy. That kind of energy isn't available in the intake tracts of a
normally aspirated engine. There's more in a turbo. I think I agree
about the flame speed not being affected.

>To my knowledge, knocking is not a fast burn. The burning
>process takes some time (for the flame front to travel accross the
>cylinder). As this burning is happening the pressure in the cylinder
>rises dramatically. The pressure is also rising (BTDC) due to the
>piston compressing the mixture. If these two pressure rises combine
>(due to over-advancing the timing), the resulting pressure = internal
>energy of the gases may exceeded the activation energy of the
>combustion reaction. This energy will be present at all points in the
>unburnt gas, so all molecules of unburnt gas are likely to react, and
>when the do the pressure rises very suddenly (around TDC) with shock
>damage resulting to your precious lump o' steel.

Excellent and accurate explanation! But...

>Knock resistance is a measure of the activation
>energy required to combust (react) the mixture. Slowing the
>burn rate can be achieved a number of ways, but its net effect is
>that the peak unburnt gas energy density is lower because the
>actual peak will occur when the piston is somewhat past TDC.
>Knocking is not burning, so knock resistance cannot be a measure of
>burn rate.

I disagree. The best analogy I can think of is an old fashioned bomb
fuse burning its way to a big black bomb. Think of the bomb as the knock
limit. If it goes off, you've ignited the end gas as explained above: it
explodes al at once. The fuse represents the parameters that control the
knock limit(pressure, temperature and TIME). Your goal is to burn the
mixture completely before the fuse reaches the bomb. Anything you do to
increase pressure or temperature shortens the fuse, and the converse is
true. Time is defintely a variable, which means that the knock limit is
related to burn rate. Therefore, another approach is to outrun the fuse,
which fast burn combustion chambers can do. Anyone notice how high the
compression ratios of modern 4V engines (and even some 2V) are getting?
 

Ed Hernandez, still catching up...
Ford Motor Company
ehernan3@ed8719.pto.ford.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 17:01:59 1996
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Date: Tue, 03 Sep 96 09:49:00 PDT
From: Todd King <Todd_King@ccm.co.intel.com>
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To: DIY_EFI
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  <<<   From: talltom <talltom@teleport.com>
  Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 09:36:12 -0700 (PDT)
  Subject: Re: Knock sensors
    I did a Corvette with a turbo on it and used a old buick spark retard
  system, and while it worked, I wasn't really very happy with it. It would
  retard 3 degrees for every clatter it didn't like, and hold it for 20-60
  seconds. The problem was that it was inconsistent, back to back runs would
  vary widely. In fact one day it decided to run harder than it had previous
  and fried the tires hitting second. The result being the rear end stepped
  out to the left and the car climbed the curb to teh demise of the right
  front corner.
    My question is what kind of expieriences have others had with knock
  retard systems? I'd think that by now this would have been refined some.
  >>>
  
        The knock system is subject to false knock indications and must
  be carefully calibrated for the various engine combos, sensor placement,
  etc. However, properly executed it works very well. On the '87 Turbo
  Regals the ECM processing of the knock system (ESC) signals can be 
  programmed for retard attack rate, timing recovery rate, etc. Never will
  we see the timing retard linger for more than a brief instant though-
  you may have had a false knock problem?
  
  <<<   From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
  Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 10:06:26 -0700
  Subject: Ancient History
  He drilled the heads so that the untimed variable flow injector sprayed
  directly on the intake valve from the back side of the valve pocket.  What
  was lacking in mechanical sophistication was made up in simple physics.
  ...
  From: "Tony Bryant" <bryantt@psc.fp.co.nz>
  Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 08:53:10 +1200
  Subject: Re: Ancient History
  ...
  What I want to know, is what happens when you have radical
  cam timing? This nice puddle of fuel on the inlet valve
  ...
  comments?
  >>>
  
  Comments? OK! :-) Get some forced induction and say "later" to all the
  big cam blues, and make more power to boot! True story: Kent Rudbeck
  of Muncie, Ind (one of many) runs 10.3x at near 130mph in his 231" V6 
  Turbo Regal. Cam specs at 0.050"? Duration- 200deg; lift- about 0.430".
  My Turbo Regal went 12.59 at 108.9 a few weeks ago with a ridiculously 
  slow launch (taking it easy on it); mods from stock are minimal at best. 
  Engine internals are pure stock; these times are typical for these cars.
  Well, sorry about the lumpy cam diatribe...
        We are getting some interesting EFI data during these 1/4 mile
  runs. We all appreciate the control potential that EFI gives us over the 
  various engine parameters. But in reality there are lots of unexpected
  things going on. For example from the runs I made a few weeks ago I
  found that 1) my MAF sensor was maxed at 255 (8 bit) the entire run.
  2) my injector duty cycle was 100% almost the entire run, even with
  injectors that are 25% larger than stock (36lb/hr vs 28lb/hr). So this
  means that the only things controlling the A/F during the run were
  airflow (boost) and base fuel pressure setting. Basically I could have
  wired the injectors "ON" to a twelve volt source and had exactly the
  same results! These static MAF and injector duty cycles at WOT are not 
  uncommon; it's amazing how fast you can go, even when the EFI is out of 
  control!
        As for spraying the back of the intake valve- that's typical
  as well. Interesting that many of the fuel injectors used these days
  make little attempt to atomize- what they fire is a stream, not a mist.
  You can make loads of power either way!
  
  Todd  Todd_King@ccm.co.intel.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 19:53:48 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Ancient History
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>and gets 12mpg (city) using a Quadrajet 750cfm; I want to improve that to
>15-17mpg.

>Arnaldo E.
>aec@ao.net
>

I think 12 mpg from a 455 is fantastic.  Can't see how you get this
good -- FI or carbed.  What's your rear end ratio?

tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 20:04:09 1996
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>
>My '73 914 just happens to have a high lift cam with a lot of overlap.  
>It won't idle decent below about 2000 rpm.  To pass a smog check, I set 
>the lifters out to .030", and then it idles fine.  Clatters like hell.  
>I've never had backfires with it.
>
>An additional problem is the low vacuum, about 12", below 2000 with 
>that engine.  The Djet responds to low vacuum by squirting more fuel, 
>which makes it richer until it dies.  I have found a fix for the ECU to 
>alter the fuel curve, but haven't tried it in the car yet.
>
>RD
>

Don't know if it's relevent, but we've run more radical cams than that regularly
and get good idle at 1200-1300 rpm with a pissing in the wind system.(k) The 
accepted mythology is this can't be done, but being as we do it I have a tough 
time believing it. Our theory sez that as long as the pulsation isn't large 
enough to pressurize clear out to the barn door(cone) it don't matter what 
kind of cam you have. One of the guys has a 94 corvette, and he commented 
that one of the rabbits was faster than his vette.(125 horse nitrous on a 
rabbit is a REAL ride!:-)

  Don't know if 914 ever used pissing in wind with barn door systems.
  


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 20:04:11 1996
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Subject: Manifold/throttle bodys-ED:-)
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Hey Ed, if you're the manifold guru for Ford, how come the manufacturers
haven't gone to throttle bodies for each cylinder like on some of the 
vettes? I know the vettes are two intake per cyl. but the advantages
are many with one valve also, and it can't cost very much when they're
already using port inj. Heck it might even be cheaper, being as the current
massive aluminum castings could be eliminated in place of plastic plumbing.
???????????????


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 20:04:14 1996
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>
>From: rickydik@ix.netcom.com (RD Rick)
>Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 12:06:45 -0700
>Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #256

>I may be able to help you, Tom.  I have a Djet tester, 17 years of 
>driving Djet 914's, lots of spares, psuedo-schematics, oscilloscope, 
>etc., and a distributor machine to do dynamic things.
>What is the nature of your problem?
>
>RD

   What I've got is a Cadillac style V8-6-4. The way this happened is that the 
brain on my mercedes 4.5 started dropping a circuit or two of injectors, and
now 
is to the point that it's so disgusting that I tore the rest of it apart for 
long put off tweaking.
  I came to this grandiose conclusion because I've checked everything else
repeatedly and it checks good.
   My questions are a little ignorant as I don't mess with porsche's and air
cooled
vw's(they're to close to the ground):-> is are the d-jetronic systems they use
equipped with four injector circuits? If so, do you think any of your schematics
would be usefull in surgery? Dist. machine, ocilloscope... I'm jealous! 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 20:04:14 1996
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>
>From: Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>
>Date: Mon, 02 Sep 1996 11:01:45 +0000
>Subject: Re: Knock sensors
>
>Tom,
>	My first question is, how tall are you really?!? ha, ha.

Well, I'm getting old and shrinking, I'm down to 6'8" now. Being as you ask
about me, The picture on the front of a $5 bill has been blown up and 
placed next to mine in a local newspaper, and I had long time friends
insisting I am related to Lincoln. 


	We use the knock sensors with the monitor from J&S to tune the engine
>till there is no more knock showing, not to leave it run on it.  A
>properly calibrated engine should never see knock anyway!


>Todd Knighton
>Protomotive Engineering

Yeah, from what I've heard about that J&S stuff it sounds pretty neat. Kind 
of afraid to ask price, but I did make note of the address, and someday when
in pain will inquire.
 



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 20:04:17 1996
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>The Djet and Ljet EFI in the aircooled opposed VW and Porsche 914 
>engines sprays directly at the intake valve from three inches away.
>
>With the Djet, the fuel is squirted in at the beginning of the intake 
>stroke two of the cyls, and at the beginning of the power stroke on the 
>other two cyls, so its operation is compromised.  
>
>People on the 914fans lists have been debating the injector timing 
>question, so your post is being forwarded there.  Hope you don't mind.
>
>RD

If it's any help Mercedes applications I believe inject just before or slightly 
after intake valve opening.
  Here I'm really going to screw myself, but here goes. It would seem to me that 
one could use a mercedes brain on a four cylinder and set the points up so that
the sequence you want is accomplished.
   All I ask for the idea is enough of the mercedes brains to keep me supplied
before you guys grab them all up.:-)
   
Just for those who aren't thoroughly neaseated yet, maybe I should mention
the fact that we haven't checked into DIGIFANT yet! :->  


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 20:04:37 1996
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>
>How about the real mechanical FI systems? Like off a '69 Mercedes coupe. 
>No I'm not talking about K-Jet, I talking something that looks like a 
>diesel fuel pump/distributor. I've only seen it in a workshop manual. 
>
>Anybody with any experience with these, care to comment?

Personally I'd never attempt to use one without duress. If anybody is so 
inclined however there are a few laying around here that could be had
reasonable.
I have a turbo bmw 6, with l-jetronic that's much safer $$$ wise.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 20:17:50 1996
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>I've seen a few postings recently about FORTH, I've done a fair bit 
>of programming in FORTH, so as my first contribution here goes :-
>
>The microcontroller we used was an Hitachi H8, 

What is an H8??  I harken back to a Fairchild F8 (shudder).  Seems
it was either a 4 or 8-bit micro.



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 20:28:22 1996
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From: "Terry McLane 312.630.0533" <MCLANE.TERRY@ntrs.com>
Subject: Bosch to Hitachi MAF
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    >> Andrew Rabbitt wrote:
    >If 220CFM is 0V, then how is the ECU going to determine anything more 
    >than that (ie: negative volts).  The way it looks to me is your ECU is
    >limiting your airflow as much as your AFM.
    
    The voltage figures I quoted were only for purposes of example, but
    it should only be necessary to measure the air flow up to the engine's 
    peak volumetric efficiency.  This should cooincide with peak torque 
    (3200 RPM @ WOT in my example).  I assume there is no need for air 
    measurement beyond this point as VE falls off at higher RPMS. 
    In otherwords, the engine may use more air per second, but not more air 
    per cylinder per injection event. Therefore a richer mixture would not 
    be necessary.  
    
    >>Like all other MAFs, the Hitachi unit (I presume it's a bypass unit 
    >>similar to that fitted to the previous model Taurus, and many other 
    >>Fords), is non-linear and therefore a 2-point calibration will not be 
    >>adequate.
    
    You're right, I am interested in the bypass unit, due to its low 
    restriction (low pressure drop).  The air meter on my car uses a 
    logarithmic potentiomter which is hooked to a "swinging door" suspended 
    in the air stream (resistance is 200-400 ohms).  Needless to say, it's 
    very restrictive.  Having read a couple of articles on the Hitachi unit 
    used by Ford, I was under the assumption that it also used a 5 volt 
    reference and a logarithmic output.  It also doesn't require any other 
    circuitry for "burn off" like other hot-wire MAFS.  I figured that the 
    Hitachi would allow higher airflow potential so if I could determine 
    voltage output equivalent to peak torque and idle in my engine for both 
    units, they could be swapped if a suitable mapping implementation could 
    be found. As a bonus, the air meter also uses a thermistor to measure 
    the air temperature, the Hitachi adjusts for temp/pressure 
    automatically, - I thought I could hook up a trim potentiometer to 
    substitute, giving me a straightforward rich/lean adjustment mechanism.  
    Always looking for more adjustability. (I imagine the ECU is fairly 
    sensitive to air temperature in this application).  
    
    >>Also, at large throttle openings, the signal jumps around a bit, and 
    >>the only way I know of getting around this is to purposely alias the 
    >>signal by sampling synchronously at a pre-determined crank position. 
    >>(I'm assuming a digital controller)
    
    Is this at constant high flow, or sudden openings? At constant values, 
    shouldn't the closed loop mode of the ECU adjust?
    
    >>Setting this up is no easy task (speaking from experience here) and 
    >>if you get it wrong, you'll likely be out by more than 100% in some 
    >>areas of the speed-load map.
    
    Bear in mind that I have only a passing knowledge of electronics, my 
    original question was based on the observation that it should be 
    possible to build a simple circuit to map the low voltage and high 
    voltage of each unit at a given air flow, and then interpolate.  
    Obviously if there are other electronic "gremlins" present in the 
    Hitachi MAF, this may not be feasible.
     
    I'd like to talk to you direct- can you respond with your e-mail 
    address?
    
    ...Terry  tm8@ntrs.com
    
    


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 21:11:46 1996
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Tom,
	For low compression or even mild compression that's okay.  But, with
high compression engines or turbocharged mild compression stuff your
rattling will knock the rings right out of it.
	Sounds like you're doing this at partial loads, what does this method
tell you about full throttle stuff.  Is your vacuum advance, or computer
chip for that matter, set up with the proper amount of retard so that
your condition is correct at all other rpms and throttle positions, or
only the one you happen to be at at that speed and throttle position.
	When I was 15, I used to set up my D-Jet 914 that way, and it seemed to
work pretty good.  Make a run, if it pings, retard it, if it doesn't
advance it.  You could get pretty good results.  But then again that was
a 2.0 liter 4 cylinder that made about 125 hp on a good day.  Now I'm
working with 3.6 to 3.8 liter 700 horsepower turbocharged engines that
won't tolerate that kind of stuff.  You'd grenade a high output engine
if it pinged just once!  Just ask Ford, when they were developing their
2.0 liter 4 cylinder turbo engine for GTP, they had a ignition glitch
that only hit at high rpm and load and made the engine "rattle a
little".  Actually, they destroyed about 20 engines before they found
the RF interference that was getting into the crank sensors and messing
up the timing.
	But then again, I've heard a lot of Ford, Chrysler, and GM products
running around the streets rattling like mad, and they seem to keep
going.  Low cylinder pressures I guess.
	The reason I told you about the J&S knock sensor is you can do exactly
like your saying, but the knock sensor won't let it "rattle" it will
just tell you how much it had to retart the timing to make it not
"rattle".  Then you can go retard the ignition by that amount.  No
damage done!

Todd Knighton
Protomotive Engineering


tom cloud wrote:
> 
> I don't do the race circuit, only want to go fast some times
> and just drive the others.  The way I tune my toy is to set the
> advance until I get a little rattling on long hills on hot days
> (we have some of both of those) and back it off a little.
> 
> So, Todd, or anyone else who cares to chip in, what's wrong
> widdat?
> 
> tom cloud

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 21:34:05 1996
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Date: Tue, 03 Sep 1996 17:24:41 -0400
From: "Edward C. Hernandez" <ehernan3@ford.com>
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Michael D. Porter commented on the throttle body sizing formula:

> To further this thought, shouldn't the intake valves duration somehow >be included in this(calculation for throttle body sizing)?

It is: that's why he includes volumetric efficiency(VE) in his formula.
Problem is, without a dyno, you have to guess your V.E.

>Who cares? Isn't the object to get as much velocity as possible?

No, the object is minimize flow restrictions while optimising the
opening rate. You are right: it is difficult to drive cars with big
throttle bodies because at low throttle settings, a few degrees makes a
huge difference in flow. OEMs get around this by designing cams into the
throttle linkage to modify the opening rate at lower throttle settings.

-- 
Ed Hernandez
Ford Motor Company
ehernan3@ed8719.pto.ford.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 22:02:04 1996
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From: rickydik@ix.netcom.com (RD Rick)
Subject: Re: Bosch d disease
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talltom wrote: 
>>From: rickydik@ix.netcom.com (RD Rick)
>>Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 12:06:45 -0700
>>Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #256
>
>>I may be able to help you, Tom.  I have a Djet tester, 17 years of 
>>driving Djet 914's, lots of spares, psuedo-schematics, oscilloscope, 
>>etc., and a distributor machine to do dynamic things.
>>What is the nature of your problem?

>   What I've got is a Cadillac style V8-6-4. The way this happened is 
that the >brain on my mercedes 4.5 started dropping a circuit or two of 
injectors, and>now >is to the point that it's so disgusting that I tore 
the rest of it apart for >long put off tweaking.
>  I came to this grandiose conclusion because I've checked everything 
else>repeatedly and it checks good.
>   My questions are a little ignorant as I don't mess with porsche's 
and air>cooled>vw's(they're to close to the ground):-> is are the 
d-jetronic systems they use>equipped with four injector circuits? If 
so, do you think any of your schematics>would be useful in surgery? 
Dist. machine, ocilloscope... I'm jealous! 

Yeah, the Djet tester I have was made by EFI Associates LA.  It can 
test the 8 cyl Merc, but I don't know if my harness will fit.  Is  your 
ECU about 8" x 12" and have the 25 pin connector on the end?  If so, my 
tester should work.  What part number is the ECU?  I don't have much in 
the way of schematics, but that vintage electronics is my cup of tea.

I could check your dist, too, and dynamically test its inj. contacts.

The Djet in 4 cyl engines has just two injector circuits.  I'm 6' and 
fit the 914, but my 6' 4" son hates it.  You would need a bubble 
canopy.  :)

RD




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From: rickydik@ix.netcom.com (RD Rick)
Subject: Re: Cams and FI
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I wrote:
>>My '73 914 just happens to have a high lift cam with a lot of 
overlap.  >>It won't idle decent below about 2000 rpm.  To pass a smog 
check, I set >>the lifters out to .030", and then it idles fine.  
Clatters like hell.  >>I've never had backfires with it.
>>
>>An additional problem is the low vacuum, about 12", below 2000 with 
>>that engine.  The Djet responds to low vacuum by squirting more fuel, 
>>which makes it richer until it dies.  I have found a fix for the ECU 
to >>alter the fuel curve, but haven't tried it in the car yet.

Talltom replied:
>Don't know if it's relevent, but we've run more radical cams than that 
regularly>and get good idle at 1200-1300 rpm with a pissing in the wind 
system.(k) The >accepted mythology is this can't be done, but being as 
we do it I have a tough >time believing it. Our theory sez that as long 
as the pulsation isn't large >enough to pressurize clear out to the 
barn door(cone) it don't matter what >kind of cam you have...

>  Don't know if 914 ever used pissing in wind with barn door systems.

Yes, the 1.8 is Ljet, but my 2.0 with big cam is a 2.0 Djet.  I am 
thinking of converting it to Ljet just to fix the idle.  Last week I 
even put a barn door airbox in place of the aircleaner on my stock 2.0, 
and it created only one inch of vacc at WOT/5800, which is about 3% 
power loss per my charts.

Is your 1200 idle with a 4 holer, or a V8?

RD


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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 15:13:32 -0700
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From: rickydik@ix.netcom.com (RD Rick)
Subject: Re: d disease
To: diy_efi
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I wrote:
>>The Djet and Ljet EFI in the aircooled opposed VW and Porsche 914 
>>engines sprays directly at the intake valve from three inches away.
>>With the Djet, the fuel is squirted in at the beginning of the intake 
>>stroke two of the cyls, and at the beginning of the power stroke on 
the >>other two cyls, so its operation is compromised...  

>If it's any help Mercedes applications I believe inject just before or 
slightly >after intake valve opening.
>  Here I'm really going to screw myself, but here goes. It would seem 
to me that >one could use a mercedes brain on a four cylinder and set 
the points up so that>the sequence you want is accomplished.
>   All I ask for the idea is enough of the mercedes brains to keep me 
supplied>before you guys grab them all up.:-)

Hey. super idea!  Will the Merc dist. fit in the VW hole? 
I promise you the second V8 ECU I find.
   
>Just for those who aren't thoroughly neaseated yet, maybe I should 
mention>the fact that we haven't checked into DIGIFANT yet! :->  

What's Digifant?  

RD

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 22:35:03 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Knock sensors
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 15:31:52 -0700
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Remember the Reichstag

----------
> From: Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: Knock sensors
> Date: Monday, September 02, 1996 4:01 AM
> 
> Tom,
> 	My first question is, how tall are you really?!? ha, ha.
> 
> 	I've found that if I run the ignition timing too close to the limit on
> the dyno that the knock sensors hit, the runs will be very
> inconsistent.  But if the engine is set up properly, and the knock
> sensors never need to do any thing then the engine performs well and
> consistently.
> 	Knock sensors are for worst case scenario's.  Bad gas, carbon buildup,
> impropper octane, exceedingly high temperatures.  I've never found a
> system that works well enough to let it run on the sensors.
> 	We use the knock sensors with the monitor from J&S to tune the engine
> till there is no more knock showing, not to leave it run on it.  A
> properly calibrated engine should never see knock anyway!
> 
> Todd Knighton
> Protomotive Engineering
> 
> > 
> >   I did a Corvette with a turbo on it and used a old buick spark retard
> > system, and while it worked, I wasn't really very happy with it. It
would
> > retard 3 degrees for every clatter it didn't like, and hold it for
20-60
> > seconds. The problem was that it was inconsistent, back to back runs
would

Dumb Idea forming - maybe.  By knock sensor, I assume we mean
the knock caused by the fuel air mixture igniting prior to the timed 
spark - generally at medium load and rpm.  Since this occurs before
the timed spark, nothing you can do to the timed spark directly 
affects the knock.  Retarding the spark lowers power thereby 
lowering the temp/pressure part of the equation - eliminates 
knock.

Why not use the sensor to directly change a parameter that 
controls knock - temperature?    Instead of retarding timing and 
losing power - why not richen mixture?  More fuel - more  evaporative
cooling - lower temp - rat noww

Richening mixture small amount has no negative effect on power.
Early turbos (pre EFI and intercoolers) often ran as high as 40% rich
to cool the charge to keep from detonating.  

Simple algorithm -  already have feedback loop for O2 sensor.  Step 
bang the correction a fixed ammout richer.  O2 sensor corrects back
over time.  No more knock, no power loss, far less critical to tune,
no need to f with ignition timing and if it false alarms - worst effect is
lowered fuel mileage.

Just a thought for what its worth



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep  3 23:44:43 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: Arnaldo Echevarria <aec@ao.net>
Subject: Re: Ancient History
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At 02:44 PM 9/3/96 -0500, you wrote:
>I think 12 mpg from a 455 is fantastic.  Can't see how you get this
>good -- FI or carbed.  What's your rear end ratio?
>
>tom

OK, I new I'd get some mail when I said that, so for the curious, my car is a:

'78 Trans Am
1970 455 2bolt main from a Bonneville
stored heads from that motor (10.25:1 cr too high)

HEADS: using 6X heads (2.11", 1.66" I think)
       approx CR between 9.0:1 to 9.6:1 (too much conflicting info)
CAM:  .444/.465 lift, hydraulic, stock rockers.

Manifold: stock 4bbl

headers (1 7/8"), flowmaster transverse muffler (2 little mufflers inside
one big
case, 2 1/2" tubing)

Best time with old rotten 245/60/15 Grand Prix tires: 13.3 @ 107mph
(75degree weather)
(This is in Orlando, Fl)
Best time with new 295x50x15 BF radial t/a's:  call me next week.

Tranny: TH400, just rebuilt
Torque converter: $20 new unit.  can't be that good.

REAR END: 3.08 posi  (to answer your question...)

Actual mileage:
11-12 city if the secondaries don't open.
<9 if the foot gets heavy :)
12.5 - 13 highway, cruising at 2600rpm, which is about 65mph.
11 mpg cruising at 3200rpm, or about 80mph

(and yes, speedometer error is accounted for, I'm not one of those
30mpg 5.0L owner  ---- but then again, two years ago in car craft some
guy with a 455 got 20MPG(??!) in one of the real street eliminators.
Yeah right! ..or did you see the buick turbo v-6 that got 48mpg and ran
low 13's in the 1/4 mile?)


timing: 10 degrees with 87 octane gas,
        12-14 with 93 gas
        (with vacuum advance)

CARB: quadrajunk 4bbl 750cfm (got it for free at junkyard, I've rebuilt it;
actually it works pretty good but gas mileage still sad)
.....when I had the holley 600cfm vacuum secondary carb, I couldn't break into 
the teens for gas mileage.  Holleys suck for gas mileage.(besides the fact that
the carb was too small)

Weight of car: 3720 w/out driver

I'm actually considering lowering the rear end ratio some more.  I've had good
luck with ultra-low geared cars and long stroke engines.

For example, I used to have a '83 trans am with:
305 (believe it or not, relatively speaking, big stroke vs bore)
.465/.488 cam
9.8:1 cr (93 octane gas only on this one)
t-5
2.73 gears (!!!!!) 
--> final drive ratio: 2.06:1.  This car would go 72mph at 1900RPM in 5th.
Everyone would tell me that ohh it'll kill the engine it'll lug it it can't
handle
it bull!
With time slips to prove:
14.3 @ 102mph
21 mpg (with a HOLLEY! My friend had a similar setup with a Q-jet and got 23mpg)
...now that car was a BLAST to drive.....
(sorry to get off topic)



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 01:45:42 1996
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>
>From: rickydik@ix.netcom.com (RD Rick)
>Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 14:54:56 -0700
>Subject: Re: Bosch d disease
>
>talltom wrote: 
>>>From: rickydik@ix.netcom.com (RD Rick)
>>>Date: Mon, 2 Sep 1996 12:06:45 -0700
>>>Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #256
>>
>>>I may be able to help you, Tom.  I have a Djet tester, 17 years of 
>>>driving Djet 914's, lots of spares, psuedo-schematics, oscilloscope, 
>>>etc., and a distributor machine to do dynamic things.
>>>What is the nature of your problem?
>
>>   What I've got is a Cadillac style V8-6-4. The way this happened is 
>that the >brain on my mercedes 4.5 started dropping a circuit or two of 
>injectors, and>now >is to the point that it's so disgusting that I tore 
>the rest of it apart for >long put off tweaking.
>>  I came to this grandiose conclusion because I've checked everything 
>else>repeatedly and it checks good.
>>   My questions are a little ignorant as I don't mess with porsche's 
>and air>cooled>vw's(they're to close to the ground):-> is are the 
>d-jetronic systems they use>equipped with four injector circuits? If 
>so, do you think any of your schematics>would be useful in surgery? 
>Dist. machine, ocilloscope... I'm jealous! 
>
>Yeah, the Djet tester I have was made by EFI Associates LA.  It can 
>test the 8 cyl Merc, but I don't know if my harness will fit.  Is  your 
>ECU about 8" x 12" and have the 25 pin connector on the end?  If so, my 
>tester should work.  What part number is the ECU?  I don't have much in 
>the way of schematics, but that vintage electronics is my cup of tea.

Yep! All of the above. Weighs about 15 pounds too!
I'll get the number for you soon.

>I could check your dist, too, and dynamically test its inj. contacts.

I've had it apart twice and I don't think that's the problem, but it's
nice info in case I'm wrong.(NEVER!)

>The Djet in 4 cyl engines has just two injector circuits.  I'm 6' and 
>fit the 914, but my 6' 4" son hates it.  You would need a bubble 
>canopy.  :)

I suspect the reason your son hates it has to do more with his age than his
size.  Am I right? Is this a teenager? 

>RD
>
>------------------------------
>
>End of DIY_EFI Digest V1 #258
>*****************************
>
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>
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> How important that is depnds on how well
>calibrated the seat of your pants is or how important that last 0.01 in
>the 1/4 mile is.

Having been refered to as a hemroid, I'm glad to see that somebody else
thinks hemroid sensitivity is usefull!:-)


>Therefore another approach is to outrun the fuse,
>which fast burn combustion chambers can do. Anyone notice how high the
>compression ratios of modern 4V engines (and even some 2V) are getting?

Yes I have and I'm pissed! Would you say that is due to combustion chamber
design,
or to more precise tuning capability?
  
While I've got your attention, have you seen the throttle valve the later
vw's are using? It looks like anything else, but when you look close the
blade fits into a recess machined into the bore, kind of like a ball valve.
To me it looks like this setup would eleviate the harsh throttle opening at
the bottom end and allow full
sail in an individual cylinder basis. Whaddya think?

>Ed Hernandez, still catching up...
>Ford Motor Company
>ehernan3@ed8719.pto.ford.com

Bye the way, bullistic bottom end throttle response can be fun. Loaned my car 
to girl who had dropped her clutch and couldn't drive without
clutch.(georgous redhead!-) I followed her home in her car being as I could
drive it without clutch. When I asked her why she was in such a hurry that
she smoked the tires and gas was flying out the back(somebody had stolen the
gas cap) she said she wasn't used to the throttle and didn't have that
problem with her Datsun.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 01:46:03 1996
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Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 09:31:44 est
To: diy_efi
Subject: re: Ancient History
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>> Liquid fuel does not burn - period.  It must be vaporized before it 
>>burns. All forms of carboration - including fuel injection - atomize 
>>the fuel hoping enough vapor will be formed to start combustion so 
>>that the heat and violence of combustion will finish the job.  Power 
>>and fuel efficiency are directly related to how well that is done.

>Um, sorry. Gasoline vapor explodes, it does not burn. Liqiud gasoline 
>burns....

You definitely DO want to minimise the vapourisation of fuel until the 
inlet valves are closed.  When fuel vapourises its density drops by a 
couple of orders of magnitude, displacing air and reducing your 
effective Volumetric efficiency.

All the applications that Robert J. Harris quoted in his original post 
were high-speed, high power applications, and sequential fuelling is 
not going to give you anything here.  What sequential injection does 
give is better low speed, part load combustion stability leading to 
better real-world driveability.






From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 02:33:36 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: "George M. Dailey" <gmd@tecinfo.com>
Subject: Re: Ancient History
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At 02:44 PM 9/3/96 -0500, you wrote:
>
>>and gets 12mpg (city) using a Quadrajet 750cfm; I want to improve that to
>>15-17mpg.
>
>>Arnaldo E.
>>aec@ao.net
>>
>
>I think 12 mpg from a 455 is fantastic.  Can't see how you get this
>good -- FI or carbed.  What's your rear end ratio?
>
>tom
>
Damn skippy, I got 8mpg city (carbed), 13mpg city (GM TBI) with a 350 small
block chevy 2.73 gears on a full size chevy truck. If you want really big
mpg increases try the 700R tranny.

GMD


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 02:33:38 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: "George M. Dailey" <gmd@tecinfo.com>
Subject: water injection & detonation supression
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Gentlemen, OEMs use exhaust gas to supress detonation, right? Exhaust gas
recirculation systems to be exact, EGR.  This seams superior to water
injection. Is it?

gmd


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From: rickydik@ix.netcom.com (RD Rick)
Subject: Re: hi compressions: wasDIY_EFI Digest V1 #258
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Somebody smart wrote:
>>Therefore another approach is to outrun the fuse,
>>which fast burn combustion chambers can do. Anyone notice how high 
the>>compression ratios of modern 4V engines (and even some 2V) are 
getting?

Talltom replied:
>Yes I have and I'm pissed! Would you say that is due to combustion 
chamber>design,>or to more precise tuning capability?

I have read that the big reason for four valves is to get the spark 
right in the center.  Flame front has much shorter distance to travel, 
meaning higher compression without detonation.  You could probably get 
the same effect with four spark plugs per cyl.   BTW, I believe 
detonation is what happens after spark but the mix explodes before the 
flame can travel far enough to get the whole mix burning.  Pre-ignition 
is another phenomenon in which hot parts or diesel effect ignite the 
mix before spark.
That's as I understand it.  Comments?

>While I've got your attention, have you seen the throttle valve the 
>later>vw's are using? It looks like anything else, but when you look 
>close the>blade fits into a recess machined into the bore, kind of 
>like a ball valve.
>To me it looks like this setup would alleviate the harsh throttle 
>opening at>the bottom end and allow full sail in an individual 
>cylinder basis. Whaddya think?

I think I'll take a look for myself.  What year VW?
RD

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 04:50:50 1996
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talltom wrote:

> Yeah, from what I've heard about that J&S stuff it sounds pretty neat. Kind
> of afraid to ask price, but I did make note of the address, and someday when
> in pain will inquire.
> 

	About $325.00 with monitor, I think. \Costs less than a set of pistons
and rings!

Todd

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Robert J. Harris wrote:
> 
> Dumb Idea forming - maybe.  By knock sensor, I assume we mean
> the knock caused by the fuel air mixture igniting prior to the timed
> spark - generally at medium load and rpm.  Since this occurs before
> the timed spark, nothing you can do to the timed spark directly
> affects the knock.  Retarding the spark lowers power thereby
> lowering the temp/pressure part of the equation - eliminates
> knock.

Nope, we were talking about knock caused by ignition timing being set
too early, not Pre-ignition caused by hot spots, carbon buildup, or
improper heat range of spark plugs.
> 
> Why not use the sensor to directly change a parameter that
> controls knock - temperature?    Instead of retarding timing and
> losing power - why not richen mixture?  More fuel - more  evaporative
> cooling - lower temp - rat noww
> 
> Richening mixture small amount has no negative effect on power.
> Early turbos (pre EFI and intercoolers) often ran as high as 40% rich
> to cool the charge to keep from detonating.
> 
> Simple algorithm -  already have feedback loop for O2 sensor.  Step
> bang the correction a fixed ammout richer.  O2 sensor corrects back
> over time.  No more knock, no power loss, far less critical to tune,
> no need to f with ignition timing and if it false alarms - worst effect is
> lowered fuel mileage.
> 
> Just a thought for what its worth


this all might work for pre-ignition, but not the knock sensing we're
talking about.
Though, richening the mixture does tend to slow the burn rate of the
mixture, thus even if the timing is set too early, it typically won't
knock.  Talk to Autothority about this, they're the kings of too much
advance and too much fuel.  Maybe that's how they get those magical 25%
increases over stock!  ;)

Todd Knighton
Protomotive Engineering

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 05:03:39 1996
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Tom,
	Motorola has a lot of data sheets on their MPX4250A, etc. line of
pressure transducers we've been using.
	National Semiconductor will send you free LM1949N's for injector
drivers.  Cherry Semiconductor is more proud of theirs, but will send
you all the data sheets you want.  I understand that GM and Ford both
used these drivers on their throttle body injection stuff.
	The MAF's are a tough one.
	There used to be a book, called the "Bosch Bible" by most, been looking
for it too.  It used to give specs on all their stuff.  Now the only way
you can get parts is to know the car it came off of.
	If any one knows where to get this Bosch spec book let me know.
	Throttle position sensors are pretty self explanatory.
	Temp sensors typically all follow the same curves, pull a curve out of
an oem to linearize it, then convert directly to deg C or F or whatever
your fancy.

Todd Knighton 
Protomotive Engineering


tom cloud wrote:
> 
> Can anyone shed light on where to get data on the various transducers
> used in EFI systems?  (esp. EGA, MAP, MAF, etc.)
> 
> I would like to find data on specific auto makers' components.  They
> obviously have the data and I cannot see any reason why they would care
> if individuals have it -- can't be trade secret.  Their engineers have
> to have access to it.  It's gotta be published somewhere.
> 
> Can anyone help ?  (Todd ?)
> 
> Thanks,
> Tom Cloud

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 05:19:22 1996
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>Can anyone shed light on where to get data on the various transducers
>used in EFI systems?  (esp. EGA, MAP, MAF, etc.)

Talk direct to the guys at Bosch, Siemens, Nippondenso, Hitachi, CTS, 
Colvern etc about any of their gear.

Just fax them with a professional looking note asking them for data 
sheets on X, Y or Z and they'll probably reply.  They are out to do 
business after all.  Just don't tell them how small your business is 
in the first instance! :)




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Date: Wed, 04 Sep 96 13:22:44 
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     If that's the case it would be great if the EGR could be controlled. 
     ie knock sensor runs a normal bypass solenoid, and opens it when 
     knocking is detected to let enough exhaust gas in to eliminate 
     pinging..
     
     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au 


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: water injection & detonation supression
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
Date:    9/4/96 12:46 PM


Gentlemen, OEMs use exhaust gas to supress detonation, right? Exhaust gas 
recirculation systems to be exact, EGR.  This seams superior to water 
injection. Is it?
     
gmd
     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 05:48:42 1996
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>Dumb Idea forming - maybe.  By knock sensor, I assume we mean
>the knock caused by the fuel air mixture igniting prior to the timed 
>spark - generally at medium load and rpm.  Since this occurs before
>the timed spark, nothing you can do to the timed spark directly 
>affects the knock.  Retarding the spark lowers power thereby 
>lowering the temp/pressure part of the equation - eliminates 
>knock.

this is pre-ignition (which is not the same as knock) and is caused by 
hot-spots on the combustion chamber surface.

Knock is caused by (or so the accepted theory goes - see Heywood for 
the full explaination) high pressure, heat from the charge, and heat 
from the radiation of the flame causing areas in the combustion 
chamber to spontaneously ignite, before the flame front passes thru.

By retarding spark, peak cylinder pressure is reduced, thereby 
removing one of the factors causing the spontaneous ignition.




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At 22:01 9/3/96 +0000, you wrote:

>	The MAF's are a tough one.

  I currently have the curves for three Bosch MAF's ..

  Derived by actual flowtesting of the MAF ..

  These are 12v supplied Hot Film Mass Air sensors
  with four wires, 12+, gnd, signal, and sig. common

  They do NOT use a 5v ref ..

  The three I have max out at 5v at the following airflows

  820kg/hr, 80mm diam.

  860kg/hr, 89mm diam.

 1300kg/hr, 89mm diam.

 If anyone really needs them, I've got 'em! ..

 Jim


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Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 13:10:46 est
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>Gentlemen, OEMs use exhaust gas to supress detonation, right? Exhaust 
>gas recirculation systems to be exact, EGR.  This seams superior to 
>water injection. Is it?

EGR is primarily used for NOx control, although it is a variable that 
is sometimes manipulated for knock suppression.  It works by 
increasing the specific heat of the charge, hence reducing the overall 
combustion temperature.  Water injection works in the same way.  EGR 
enters the cylinder in the gas phase (as opposed to liquid), 
displacing air hence reducing the effective volumetric efficiency.
This is OK (beneficial actually) at part-load, but not WOT.




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Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 13:28:58 est
To: diy_efi
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>Somebody smart wrote:
>>>Therefore another approach is to outrun the fuse,
>>>which fast burn combustion chambers can do. Anyone notice how high 
>the>>compression ratios of modern 4V engines (and even some 2V) are 
>getting?

>Talltom replied:
>>Yes I have and I'm pissed! Would you say that is due to combustion 
>>chamber design, or to more precise tuning capability?

>I have read that the big reason for four valves is to get the spark 
>right in the center.  Flame front has much shorter distance to 
>travel, meaning higher compression without detonation.  You could 
>probably get the same effect with four spark plugs per cyl.   BTW, I 
>believe detonation is what happens after spark but the mix explodes 
>before the flame can travel far enough to get the whole mix burning.

Mixture preparation has a lot to do with it.  If you atomise smaller, 
the burn-rate is faster, and thus you get the same torque with 
retarded ignition.  This allows you to run a high compression ratio, 
giving efficiency gains in areas where you're not spark limited for 
MBT.

Charge motion is also a big player in mixture preparation.  With four 
valves (nothwithstanding the advantages of increased valve area), you 
can arrange what is known as 'tumble' which is akin to (but arguably 
better than) 'swirl' in a 2-V design.




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Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 13:46:32 est
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>> What I want to know, is what happens when you have radical
>> cam timing? This nice puddle of fuel on the inlet valve
>> gets blown back up the inlet duct when the valve opens?
>> Makes nice flames, if you don't run an air cleaner :-) 
>> But this surely can't make for repeatable fuel volume supplied
>> to the cylinder?
>
>As Ralph pointed out, the vacuum goes down at lower rpm due to valve 
>overlap. A vacuum responsive FI would make the mixture too rich for 
>the engine to run. I think carburators are more tolerant of this low 
>vacuum at low rpm because they are passive devices and because they 
>are less precise in fuel metering.

carbs don't use manifold vacuum to meter fuel.  All they use is the 
depression created by airflow through a metering venturi.




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From: Jeremy <jpronk@st.nepean.uws.edu.au>
Subject: re: Ancient History
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At 01:46 PM 9/4/96 est, you wrote:
>
>>> What I want to know, is what happens when you have radical
>>> cam timing? This nice puddle of fuel on the inlet valve
>>> gets blown back up the inlet duct when the valve opens?
>>> Makes nice flames, if you don't run an air cleaner :-) 
>>> But this surely can't make for repeatable fuel volume supplied
>>> to the cylinder?
>>
>>As Ralph pointed out, the vacuum goes down at lower rpm due to valve 
>>overlap. A vacuum responsive FI would make the mixture too rich for 
>>the engine to run. I think carburators are more tolerant of this low 
>>vacuum at low rpm because they are passive devices and because they 
>>are less precise in fuel metering.
>
>carbs don't use manifold vacuum to meter fuel.  All they use is the 
>depression created by airflow through a metering venturi.

How about SU carbys? Dont the pistons get sucked up according to
manifold vacuum?


Jeremy



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 08:41:18 1996
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Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 10:32:58 +0100
From: Johan Rodling <Johan.Rodling@Jrt.SE>
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Hi out there!

I'm doing some calculation on a EFI based on Motorola 68HC11. At this stage it seems as it would work up to about 10k-12k rpm's and up to V12 engins.

Now, my problem is that I dont know how to calculate the air flow. So, if anybody knows the formula for this, please let me know. Yes I know of Bowlings web page, but I'd rather have the math's.



Unix is simple, but it takes a genius to understand its simplicity. -DMR

'74 Jaguar XJ5.3 L (V12)
------------------------------------------------------
Johan Rodling             Email:  Johan.Rodling@Jrt.SE
JoRoTech HB               Phone:  +46 (0)18 36 90 91      
Borje, Stromsborg         Fax:    +46 (0)18 36 91 02      
S-755 92 Uppsala, Sweden  Mobile: +46 (0)708 385 380

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 09:17:52 1996
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Date: Tue, 03 Sep 1996 19:14:00 +0000
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Ancient History
To: diy_efi
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Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059
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-> I'm interested to learn more about when should I inject fuel for best
-> power and when
-> should I do so for best efficiency.  It seems that a Hillborn system
-> just dumps fuel and fuel guaranteeing full combustion but at the
-> expense of efficiency.

 Once you go to full throttle the injector pulsewidth should approach
100%; basically the injector is on all the time.  At idle and low RPM
the injector timing makes a small difference, but it's mostly an
emissions thing.  Lots of quite efficient cars simply batch left bank,
right bank, and to hell with trying to time it.
                                                                                                                     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 10:07:47 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: pfontana@netline.totobit.it (fontana pasquale)
Subject: Re: J&S Knock Sensor Costs
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Hello Todd
  where i can get it???

Give-me an  e-mail  with all you it's possible about this .

Thanks
 
PASQUALE            
                 ***
                **                \||/
              *    *<nigth&day>   ('') 




>talltom wrote:
>
>> Yeah, from what I've heard about that J&S stuff it sounds pretty neat. Kind
>> of afraid to ask price, but I did make note of the address, and someday when
>> in pain will inquire.
>> 
>
>	About $325.00 with monitor, I think. \Costs less than a set of pistons
>and rings!
>
>Todd
>
>


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 11:52:14 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Really long water injection post, $0.04 worth
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On Tue, 3 Sep 1996, Edward C. Hernandez wrote:

> >...an article involving water injection to reduce detonation.  My
>question is: What happened to this wonderful idea?  I saw an ad toward
>the back of the magazine in which Edelbrock that was selling their
>Vari-Injection

> 
> I've been running my Vari-Jection unit for 6 years without problems.

Does Edelbrock still sell these? How much do they run?

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 12:06:17 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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Subject: tall drivers
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On Tue, 3 Sep 1996, talltom wrote:
> 
> >The Djet in 4 cyl engines has just two injector circuits.  I'm 6' and 
> >fit the 914, but my 6' 4" son hates it.  You would need a bubble 
> >canopy.  :)
> 
> I suspect the reason your son hates it has to do more with his age than his
> size.  Am I right? Is this a teenager? 
> 

I'm 6'3" and I fit into my 914 just fine. Of course, a 928 is even more 
comfy, but that's another story....

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 12:06:24 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: water injection & detonation supression
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On Tue, 3 Sep 1996, George M. Dailey wrote:

> Gentlemen, OEMs use exhaust gas to supress detonation, right? Exhaust gas
> recirculation systems to be exact, EGR.  This seams superior to water
> injection. Is it?
> 

I thought EGR was strickly for reduced exhaust emmisions? I would think 
that the hot exhaust gas would heat up the intake such that it would 
increase the likelihood of detonation. Water injection would cool the 
intake air, making it denser. Of course, for real density, these's 
nothing like nitrous!

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 12:23:16 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: hi compressions: wasDIY_EFI Digest V1 #258
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On Tue, 3 Sep 1996, RD Rick wrote:
> 
> I have read that the big reason for four valves is to get the spark 
> right in the center.  
> That's as I understand it.  Comments?


According to Mr. Mackerle, of "Air Cooled Motor Engines:" 

	"More advantages are offered by the use of a hemispherical
combustion chamber with inclined valves. The exhaist valve of such a
layout can be efficiently cooled on the whole of its circumference. The
maximum flow area is about 32% at the inlet valve and 22.3% at the exhaust
valve. Small changes can still be made by altering the respective sizes of
the valves and by construction details. The conditions prevailing with
aluminum alloy heads, in which inserted valve seats are used of necessity,
are probably less favorable. 
	"By the use of a "pent roof" four-valve cylinder head layout, the 
flow area at the exhaust valve seats may also be increased to about 32% 
of the piston crown area. The coefficient of flow through the ports is 
however less favorable than in the forgoing case (hemispherical 
combustion chamber), for flow is restricted by the close proximity of two 
valves and on the outer side also by the vertical wall."

Hope this helps

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 14:19:58 1996
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From: walter.kaufmann@sd.id.ethz.ch (Walter Kaufmann)
Subject: Knock sensor spectrum?
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Can anyone tell me more about the frequency sprectrum from the knock sensor?

How does it looks like?

Does it look so at every case of knocking? (high speed, bad fuel and so) or is
it different? How different or what spectrum?

How to interpret this signal? Frequency, intensity or what?

Electronic work like filters?

Many thanks
Walter



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 15:12:17 1996
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> >carbs don't use manifold vacuum to meter fuel.  All they use is the
> >depression created by airflow through a metering venturi.
> 
> How about SU carbys? Dont the pistons get sucked up according to
> manifold vacuum?
> 


They also use a velocity across a variable venturi to create it's own
depression (hence vacuum) though not directly the manifold vacuum.

Todd Knighton
Protomotive Engineering

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> 
>  Once you go to full throttle the injector pulsewidth should approach
> 100%; basically the injector is on all the time.  At idle and low RPM
> the injector timing makes a small difference, but it's mostly an
> emissions thing.  Lots of quite efficient cars simply batch left bank,
> right bank, and to hell with trying to time it.
> 

If you run the injectors beyond 80% dwell, they become erratic and the
flow rates go to hell.  Stay below 80% and you'll make your engine much
happier.  Also, if you're running above 80%, you can burn your driver
circuitry out prematurely.
As well as, at idle and low rpm, small changes in injector timing make a
hell of a lot more difference than at high rpm.  It's the percentage
thing.
for example

Idle timing
1.5ms
change timing .5ms
that's a 30% change

Full throttle timing
10ms
change timing .5ms
that's only a 5% change

Low numbers are much more critical.
Even worse are high rpms, light throttle.  At 6000 rpm's there's only
10ms from TDC to TDC, and if you're looking for 8 bit resolution you're
alread into the 1.25ms per step, go 10 bit resolution and you're looking
at 9 microsecond resolution.  Where at 600 rpm's you've got 100ms from
TDC to TDC and ten times the time to work with.

Todd Knighton
Protomotive Engineering

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Date: Wed, 04 Sep 1996 08:23:05 +0000
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Had you followed the DIY list, I've posted it about 4 times, but here it
is again.

J&S Electronics
(714) 534-6975
13925 parway Drive
Garden Grove, CA 92643

fontana pasquale wrote:
> 
> Hello Todd
>   where i can get it???
> 
> Give-me an  e-mail  with all you it's possible about this .
> 
> Thanks
> 
> PASQUALE
>                  ***
>                 **                \||/
>               *    *<nigth&day>   ('')
> 
> >talltom wrote:
> >
> >> Yeah, from what I've heard about that J&S stuff it sounds pretty neat. Kind
> >> of afraid to ask price, but I did make note of the address, and someday when
> >> in pain will inquire.
> >>
> >
> >       About $325.00 with monitor, I think. \Costs less than a set of pistons
> >and rings!
> >
> >Todd
> >
> >

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 15:30:25 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'DIY EFI'" <diy_efi>, "'RD Rick'"
	 <rickydik@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RE: d disease
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 13:48:37 +-200
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Durrr me dunno either, what is DIGIFANT?

Mark

----------
From:  RD Rick[SMTP:rickydik@ix.netcom.com]
Sent:  Wednesday, September 04, 1996 12:14 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Re: d disease

I wrote:
>>The Djet and Ljet EFI in the aircooled opposed VW and Porsche 914 
>>engines sprays directly at the intake valve from three inches away.
>>With the Djet, the fuel is squirted in at the beginning of the intake 
>>stroke two of the cyls, and at the beginning of the power stroke on 
the >>other two cyls, so its operation is compromised...  

>If it's any help Mercedes applications I believe inject just before or 
slightly >after intake valve opening.
>  Here I'm really going to screw myself, but here goes. It would seem 
to me that >one could use a mercedes brain on a four cylinder and set 
the points up so that>the sequence you want is accomplished.
>   All I ask for the idea is enough of the mercedes brains to keep me 
supplied>before you guys grab them all up.:-)

Hey. super idea!  Will the Merc dist. fit in the VW hole? 
I promise you the second V8 ECU I find.
   
>Just for those who aren't thoroughly neaseated yet, maybe I should 
mention>the fact that we haven't checked into DIGIFANT yet! :->  

What's Digifant?  

RD



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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'DIY EFI'" <diy_efi>,
        "'RABBITT_Andrew@mv8.orbeng.com.au'" <RABBITT_Andrew@mv8.orbeng.com.au>
Subject: RE: Ancient History
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 13:42:58 +-200
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In that case, how did the early wick carbs work?
Mark


----------
From:  RABBITT_Andrew@mv8.orbeng.com.au[SMTP:RABBITT_Andrew@mv8.orbeng.com.au]
Sent:  Wednesday, September 04, 1996 11:32 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  re: Ancient History

 
>> Liquid fuel does not burn - period.  It must be vaporized before it 
>>burns. All forms of carboration - including fuel injection - atomize 
>>the fuel hoping enough vapor will be formed to start combustion so 
>>that the heat and violence of combustion will finish the job.  Power 
>>and fuel efficiency are directly related to how well that is done.

>Um, sorry. Gasoline vapor explodes, it does not burn. Liqiud gasoline 
>burns....

You definitely DO want to minimise the vapourisation of fuel until the 
inlet valves are closed.  When fuel vapourises its density drops by a 
couple of orders of magnitude, displacing air and reducing your 
effective Volumetric efficiency.

All the applications that Robert J. Harris quoted in his original post 
were high-speed, high power applications, and sequential fuelling is 
not going to give you anything here.  What sequential injection does 
give is better low speed, part load combustion stability leading to 
better real-world driveability.








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From: Terry Sare <Terry_Sare@dell.com>
To: diy_efi, owner-diy_efi-outgoing
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Subject: Re[2]: Knock sensors
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     The TI web page has a app note on building a DSP based knock detection 
     system. The web page is www.ti.com and to get to the app notes you 
     have to request a password. The app note is spra039.pdf and has the 
     formulas  etc. No code though.
     
     TS

Remember the Reichstag

----------
> From: Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: Knock sensors
> Date: Monday, September 02, 1996 4:01 AM
>
> Tom,
>      My first question is, how tall are you really?!? ha, ha.
>
>      I've found that if I run the ignition timing too close to the limit on
> the dyno that the knock sensors hit, the runs will be very
> inconsistent.  But if the engine is set up properly, and the knock
> sensors never need to do any thing then the engine performs well and
> consistently.
>      Knock sensors are for worst case scenario's.  Bad gas, carbon buildup,
> impropper octane, exceedingly high temperatures.  I've never found a
> system that works well enough to let it run on the sensors.
>      We use the knock sensors with the monitor from J&S to tune the engine
> till there is no more knock showing, not to leave it run on it.  A
> properly calibrated engine should never see knock anyway!
>
> Todd Knighton
> Protomotive Engineering
>
> >
> >   I did a Corvette with a turbo on it and used a old buick spark retard
> > system, and while it worked, I wasn't really very happy with it. It
would
> > retard 3 degrees for every clatter it didn't like, and hold it for
20-60
> > seconds. The problem was that it was inconsistent, back to back runs
would

Dumb Idea forming - maybe.  By knock sensor, I assume we mean
the knock caused by the fuel air mixture igniting prior to the timed
spark - generally at medium load and rpm.  Since this occurs before
the timed spark, nothing you can do to the timed spark directly
affects the knock.  Retarding the spark lowers power thereby
lowering the temp/pressure part of the equation - eliminates
knock.

Why not use the sensor to directly change a parameter that
controls knock - temperature?    Instead of retarding timing and
losing power - why not richen mixture?  More fuel - more  evaporative
cooling - lower temp - rat noww

Richening mixture small amount has no negative effect on power.
Early turbos (pre EFI and intercoolers) often ran as high as 40% rich
to cool the charge to keep from detonating.

Simple algorithm -  already have feedback loop for O2 sensor.  Step
bang the correction a fixed ammout richer.  O2 sensor corrects back
over time.  No more knock, no power loss, far less critical to tune,
no need to f with ignition timing and if it false alarms - worst effect is
lowered fuel mileage.

Just a thought for what its worth

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Subject: Re: Ancient History
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Gentlemen,
I have been on this list for some time now, and have found your discussions
informative, and interesting. This latest thread (discussions of gas milage
from a big block) has finally prompted me to ask a question. 
Why is it  a 3500 lb big block car can get 12mpg when on the other end of the
weight (and size) spectrum, my parents have a 14,000 +lb motorhome powered by
a 454 chevy (tbi), with ovedrive, 5.13 ? gears, 20" wheels (rim dia) , and
the areodynamics of a house, and still get 10-11mpg on the highway. And, when
pulling a towed 3700lb 
vehicle (Brono II 4x4) they still get 8-10mpg. This has been documented over
10's of thousands of miles. 
And yet, if I buy a full size truck with 4-wheel drive and a 5.0 to 5.8 litre
V-8, I can only excpect 16mpg? Do you think that possibly many vehicles are
being over-geared? I recently changed the gears on my 2.8 L ford ranger from
3.73 to 4.11 and actually saw a slight increase in mileage. I think this was
cause by always having the foot to the floor. Now, the engine revs higher,
but I notice the pedal isn't constantly kissing the carpet. And, by the way I
did take into account the odometer error after changing the gears (plural,
4-wheel drive makes changing gears a pain!).


Just thinking outloud again,

Mark

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Date: Wed, 04 Sep 1996 12:42:22 -0400
From: "Edward C. Hernandez" <ehernan3@ford.com>
Organization: V engine, Components B Department
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talltom wrote:
> 
> Hey Ed, if you're the manifold guru for Ford, how come the
> manufacturers haven't gone to throttle bodies for each cylinder like
> on some of the vettes? 

Guru?! Your words, not mine, but thanks. I was unaware of any Corvettes
with actual port throttles, though I believe the LT-5 had what we call
runner controls. Those can deactivate one runner of a dual runner
design, they don't actual control engine speed like a true throttle.

>...it can't cost very much when they're already using port inj. Heck 
> it might even be cheaper, being as the current
> massive aluminum castings could be eliminated in place of plastic
> plumbing.

It does cost very much. True throttles have to seat accurately in their
bores, and the shaft CANNOT bind under any conditions. Thus, special
care must be taken when manufacturing the bores, whether they be plastic
or aluminum. Most Al throttle bodies are die cast(cheap) and then their
bores are machined. Without going into a lot of manufacturing detail, a
cost effective plastic throttle body must be made a certain way to avoid
this machining operation, and thus far, that way is incompatible with
how most plastic intakes are made today. Even if you hurdle that one,
you still need, for a V8, 8 separate plates, 16 screws(or welds),
anywhere from 2 or 4 or even 8 shafts, accompnied by 4 or 8 or 16 sealed
bearings, cables(or motors)....It will never be as cheap as one throttle
body. BUT, I like port throttles(ala Euro spec BMW M3) from a
performance standpoint since they make for excellent throttle response
while letting the designer get as wild as he wants with the intake
tracting.

-- 
Ed Hernandez
Ford Motor Company
ehernan3@ed8719.pto.ford.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 17:10:27 1996
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From: pfontana@netline.totobit.it (FONTANA PASQUALE)
Subject: Re: Knock sensor spectrum?
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Hello Walter 

You can have more informations about this problem by  the application note:

17. ENGINE KNOCK DETECTION USING TMS320C25 AND TMS320C30 DSPS
APPLICATION REPORT

     spra039.pdf (329 KBytes)
 
You must register as TI-ME and  after you can download this .

I hope is help you.

                
                        *      *     *                         \| | |/
Pasquale    *                 (nigth &day)    ( ' ' )
                    *            *

>Can anyone tell me more about the frequency sprectrum from the knock sensor?
>
>How does it looks like?
>
>Does it look so at every case of knocking? (high speed, bad fuel and so) or is
>it different? How different or what spectrum?
>
>How to interpret this signal? Frequency, intensity or what?
>
>Electronic work like filters?
>
>Many thanks
>Walter
>
>
>
>


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From: Todd King <Todd_King@ccm.co.intel.com>
Message-ID: <Wed, 04 Sep 96 10:28:40 PDT_5@ccm.jf.intel.com>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Bosch to Hitachi, Ancient history
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  <<< From: "Terry McLane 312.630.0533" <MCLANE.TERRY@ntrs.com>
  Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 15:02:05 CDT
  Subject: Bosch to Hitachi MAF
      The voltage figures I quoted were only for purposes of example, but
      it should only be necessary to measure the air flow up to the engine's
      peak volumetric efficiency.  This should cooincide with peak torque
  >>>
  
  A good way to do this would be to put both sensors in series; set up a
  6811 w/ onboard A/D to sample the output of both sensors during some WOT
  pulls. Then you have a conversion map to go by. Then to convert you 
  could use the 6811 to sample the new sensor, refer to the conversion map,
  then output the converted value to a D/A and LPF. Sounds harder than
  it really is. Of course a nice, easy inverting op amp would be the way
  to go if the new sensor output lends itself to that, as Tom Cloud has
  indicated. But the other way is more fun :-) My GM MAF uses a frequency
  output, about 30 Hz to 150 Hz.
  
  <<<   From: Arnaldo Echevarria <aec@ao.net>
  Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 19:43:15 -0400
  Subject: Re: Ancient History
  ...
  guy with a 455 got 20MPG(??!) in one of the real street eliminators.
  Yeah right! ..or did you see the buick turbo v-6 that got 48mpg and ran
  low 13's in the 1/4 mile?)
  
  Yeah, he had problems that day and was only able to get 13's out of it.
  My Turbo Regal gets about 17 city, 24 hwy. The 48 mpg was real but was
  done with a special, lean cruise mode chip. I have this type chip in
  my car right now and will be driving it to Vancouver, BC (from Portland)
  to race there at the end of the month; I'll report my mpg from the trip.
  'Course with the ported iron heads I'm installing this month I plan to
  get real bad strip mpg, especially when those new 50 lb/hr injectors
  get thirsty with all that intercooled air being blown past 'em :-)
  I'll run the stock cam for now (195 deg dur. @ 0.050", 0.400" lift).
  I'm hoping for about 11.50 at near 120 mph for starters but we'll see.
  I'll be gathering lots of good EFI data so hopefully we can learn
  something...
  
  Todd  Todd_King@ccm.co.intel.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 17:56:26 1996
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Date: Wed, 04 Sep 1996 13:51:15 -0400
From: "Edward C. Hernandez" <ehernan3@ford.com>
Organization: V engine, Components B Department
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> Gentlemen, OEMs use exhaust gas to supress detonation, right? 

NO, we use it for NOx control because it reduce peak combustion
temperatures(reducing NOx formation). It has a side effect of reducing
burn rates(because it significantly dilutes the mixture), which means
you need more spark advanvce when EGR is on. Problem is, EGR heats up
the inlet air, shortening the fuse. Water can do this without heating up
the air(arguably, cooling it) and without diluting the mixture to the
same extent. I'm having second thoughts about water's effect on burn
rates now...

>I have read that the big reason for four valves is to get the spark
>right in the center.  Flame front has much shorter distance to travel,
>meaning higher compression without detonation.  You could probably get
>the same effect with four spark plugs per cyl.

Yes for all three sentences. There has been research on the last.

Edelbrock Vari-Jection is no longer offered.

One possible source for spec sheets on sensors would be a certain kind
of service manual from the dealership. I've seen exerpts from such a
manual that we used to diagnose faulty sensors a few years back. Can't a
imagine a dealership without one of these manuals. If  they won't sell
you one, maybe you can convince them to give you an outdated one.

Short term knocking is okay, but the longer or more severe it is, the
greater chances of scuffing bores and breaking ring lands and losing
crush in the rods bearings. Personally, I try never to knock. I don't
always succeed, but I wince when I hear it.

dn, is there a FAQ for some of this stuff? I don't know if you have a
site or just a digest. I can't get over the firewall here. I would
consider writing a FAQ or two for your site so the same questions don't
get asked over and over.

Ed Hernandez
Ford Motor Company
ehernan3@ed8719.pto.ford.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 18:49:48 1996
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>From: rickydik@ix.netcom.com (RD Rick)
>Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 15:07:32 -0700

>
>Is your 1200 idle with a 4 holer, or a V8?
>
>RD

4
>------------------------------
>
>From: rickydik@ix.netcom.com (RD Rick)
>Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 15:13:32 -0700
>Subject: Re: d disease

>>  Here I'm really going to screw myself, but here goes. It would seem 
>to me that >one could use a mercedes brain on a four cylinder and set 
>the points up so that>the sequence you want is accomplished.
>>   All I ask for the idea is enough of the mercedes brains to keep me 
>supplied>before you guys grab them all up.:-)
>
>Hey. super idea!  Will the Merc dist. fit in the VW hole? 
>I promise you the second V8 ECU I find.

I see we have our priorities estblished!:-)
   
>>Just for those who aren't thoroughly neaseated yet, maybe I should 
>mention>the fact that we haven't checked into DIGIFANT yet! :->  
>
>What's Digifant?  
>
>RD

Just another vw fuel system that was for all intents and purposes was
propietary and short lived. I believe it was used on late 60's early
70's squarebeeks. The name was repulsive enough to keep me from ever 
learning about it.
  



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 19:50:39 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Manifold/throttle bodys-ED:-)
In-Reply-To: <199609041642.AA03660@internet-mail.ford.com>
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On Wed, 4 Sep 1996, Edward C. Hernandez wrote:
 BUT, I like port throttles(ala Euro spec BMW M3) from a
> performance standpoint since they make for excellent throttle response
> while letting the designer get as wild as he wants with the intake
> tracting.

I remember my old alfa with the spica mechanical injection had one 
throttle per cylinder. pretty cool.


****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 20:34:28 1996
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Date: Wed, 04 Sep 1996 16:30:32 -0400
To: diy_efi
From: Chuck Tomlinson <tomlinsc@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Manifold/throttle bodys-ED:-)
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>Hey Ed, if you're the manifold guru for Ford, how come the manufacturers
>haven't gone to throttle bodies for each cylinder like on some of the 
>vettes? I know the vettes are two intake per cyl. but the advantages
>are many with one valve also, and it can't cost very much when they're
>already using port inj. Heck it might even be cheaper, being as the current
>massive aluminum castings could be eliminated in place of plastic plumbing.
>???????????????

I'm not Ed, but... ZR-1s were the only Vettes with throttle plates in the 
intake runners, and they only controlled 8 of the 16 runners.  I think 
these secondary throttles were 2-state i.e. either fully open or fully 
closed.  Otherwise, the ZR-1 engine has a regular two-butterfly throttle 
body on the front of the plenum.

In general, it would seem that balancing airflow (cylinder-to-cylinder) 
through many individual throttles would be a more complex and expensive 
proposition than having one throttle and a plenum. I thought some BMWs 
have individual throttles (M-engines?), but I don't know what the real 
benefits are.

Cadillac Northstars already use plastic manifolds with single butterfly 
throttles, as will the "Gen III" small block Chevrolet in the '97 Vette.

--
Chuck Tomlinson



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 21:16:54 1996
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Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 07:50:00 +1200
From: "Woodd, Michael" <wooddm@akcity.govt.nz>
Organization: Auckland City
To: diy_efi (diy_efi)
Subject: Re: Really long water injection post, $0
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Ed says...

>I disagree. The best analogy I can think of is an old fashioned bomb
>fuse burning its way to a big black bomb. Think of the bomb as the knock
>limit. If it goes off, you've ignited the end gas as explained above: it
>explodes al at once. The fuse represents the parameters that control the
>knock limit(pressure, temperature and TIME). Your goal is to burn the
>mixture completely before the fuse reaches the bomb. Anything you do to
>increase pressure or temperature shortens the fuse, and the converse is
>true. Time is defintely a variable, which means that the knock limit is
>related to burn rate. Therefore, another approach is to outrun the fuse,
>which fast burn combustion chambers can do.
       ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Explain yourself.  And where *have* you been??....

Mike Woodd
(wooddm@akcity.govt.nz)

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 21:28:42 1996
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From: "Woodd, Michael" <wooddm@akcity.govt.nz>
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Bob says...

>Why not use the sensor to directly change a parameter that
>controls knock - temperature?

I think it has already been said here, and I think the general idea
was that you can't reduce the temperatures enough by just
adding more fuel, unless you add a whole hell of a lot.  Thats
what brought up the water injection thing, I think

What about injecting water upon knock sensed (for non-turbo
cars)?  How far can you increase spark advance and continue
adding more water before something happens (like the engine
hydraulics...)?

Mike Woodd
(wooddm@akcity.govt.nz)

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 21:47:11 1996
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Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 17:36:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: Daniel Ridge <newt@cesdis1.gsfc.nasa.gov>
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> >What's Digifant?  
> >
> >RD
> 
> Just another vw fuel system that was for all intents and purposes was
> propietary and short lived. I believe it was used on late 60's early
> 70's squarebeeks. The name was repulsive enough to keep me from ever 
> learning about it.

The Vanagon kept Digifant and four-speed transmissions and the leading
edge of automotive technology for many years (snicker).

How could it not be a Bosch system, though? I know little about it, but it
was my understanding that Digifant bridged the gap between LJet and
Motronic (ie integrated spark but dumber brain)

What is it really?

-Dan

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\___/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
   Daniel Ridge                      |   USRA  CESDIS
   Research Minion, Beowulf Project  |   Code 930.5
   email: newt@cesdis.gsfc.nasa.gov  |   Nimbus Rd., Bldg. 28, Rm. W274
   tel:   301-286-3062               |   Goddard Space Flight Center
   fax:   301-286-1777               |   Greenbelt, MD.  20771
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\_|_/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                http://cesdis.gsfc.nasa.gov/people/newt


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 21:50:37 1996
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Message-ID: <322DD1E4.521@cia.com.au>
Date: Thu, 05 Sep 1996 06:00:52 +1100
From: Doug Robson <doug@cia.com.au>
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Hi All , Fred

Have re installed injection to race car with smaller throttle bodies
Off to dyno next week to see if we avoid last times problems ( 50 mm
bodies versus these 45's ). Also the Data Logging prototype is working
well but ill need input as to how to design front end and what people
might want to montitor and how it should be displayed. Also someone here
asked me about it and I apologise for losing his name. please ask again.
Look forward to hearing from y'all

regards
-- 
|===============================================================|
|			When I die, 				|
|         I want to go in my sleep, like my grandfather, 	|
|          not screaming like the passengers in his car. 	|	
|---------------------------------------------------------------|
|  	Doug Robson     	   mailto:doug@cia.com.au	|
|				mailto:Doug.Robson@chase.com	|
|    Sydney, Australia		 http://www.cia.com.au/doug	|
|---------------------------------------------------------------|
|    Club Car Racing Register of NSW	    |	Thank God	|
|  1992/93 Under 2 litre State Champion	    |	   for		|
| http://www.cia.com.au/doug/ccrrnsw.html   |	Gravity		|
|===============================================================|

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 22:40:25 1996
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Date: Wed, 04 Sep 1996 17:34:39 -0500
To: diy_efi
From: Thomas Burns <thomas.burns@mci.com>
Subject: Fuel on the intake valves
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I was reading in this month's Chevy High Performance mag. about the new LS1
motor being placed in the new Corvette.

They mentioned that the injectors have been repositioned and the intake has
a small section cutout along the top of the port allowing the fuel to squirt
more directly on or towards the intake valve.

I thought this was interesting, especially considering we were just talking
about the Hilburn systems. Coincidence????

-Tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 22:46:18 1996
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From: "John Faubion" <jfaubion@beaches.net>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: hi compressions: wasDIY_EFI Digest V1 #258
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 17:32:48 -0500
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> I have read that the big reason for four valves is to get the spark 
> right in the center.  Flame front has much shorter distance to travel, 
> meaning higher compression without detonation.  You could probably get 
> the same effect with four spark plugs per cyl.   BTW, I believe 

Actually the big reason for multivalve chambers is more area is exposed
around the valve to flow fuel. Two small valves have much more flow
capacity than 1 large valve but is more expensive that manufacture.

> detonation is what happens after spark but the mix explodes before the 
> flame can travel far enough to get the whole mix burning.  Pre-ignition 
> is another phenomenon in which hot parts or diesel effect ignite the 
> mix before spark.
> That's as I understand it.  Comments?

True.

John Faubion
jfaubion@beaches.net

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep  4 23:23:24 1996
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From: Mark Eidson <mark.eidson@tempe.vlsi.com>
Subject: Ford TFI Distributor
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I have been observing for a couple of weeks now and have verified some of my
own theories and learned a lot of new stuff.  My first attempt at EFI is
installing a Holley Pro-Jection 4DI on a 302 '70 Mustang.  It has a medium
performance hydraulic roller cam, 9.5:1 compression, 351 cast iron exhaust
manifolds and a 3.50: axle ratio.  
In order to use the Spark Control feature a "Ford non-signature TFI
distributor" is required.  My questions for the group are:
What model Fords use this type of distributor, i.e., where do I find one?
Does the distributor have vacuum advance and mechanical advance?
Are one or both of these functions controlled by the ECU?  me
***************************************************************************
* Mark Eidson                        Voice: (602)752-6513                 *
* Staff Design Engineer                Fax: (602)752-6000                 *
* Manager System Integration and                                          *
*   Verification                    E-Mail:  mark.eidson@tempe.vlsi.com   *
* VLSI Technology, Inc.                                                   *
* 8375 South River Parkway                                                *
* M/S 265                                                                 *
* Tempe, Arizona     85284                                                *
***************************************************************************


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Reply-To: diy_efi

>In that case, how did the early wick carbs work?

Never seen one!  I would guess that since they're not around now, they 
didn't (work, that is!)









From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 01:43:35 1996
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From: Sandy <sganz@westworld.com>
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> Once you go to full throttle the injector pulsewidth should approach
>100%; basically the injector is on all the time.  At idle and low RPM

I'm not sure how close to 100% is good, I have the idea that is should be
less then that as that can lead to injector and driver overheating.




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 01:47:21 1996
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From: Sandy <sganz@westworld.com>
Subject: Re: Knock sensor spectrum?
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Reply-To: diy_efi

At 07:00 PM 9/4/96 +0200, you wrote:
>Hello Walter 
>
>You can have more informations about this problem by  the application note:
>
>17. ENGINE KNOCK DETECTION USING TMS320C25 AND TMS320C30 DSPS
>APPLICATION REPORT
>
>     spra039.pdf (329 KBytes)
> 
Can this be put on one of the FTP sites or Web pages?

Sandy


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 02:50:42 1996
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At 01:51 PM 9/4/96 -0400, Ed H. wrote:

>dn, is there a FAQ for some of this stuff? I don't know if you have a
>site or just a digest. I can't get over the firewall here. I would
>consider writing a FAQ or two for your site so the same questions don't
>get asked over and over.

I don't have a site or a digest, I think ya got me confused with somebody
else. There is an affiliated site here at the University of Calgary which
has some of the DIY_EFI stuff on it.  Doing up some FAQ's is a hell of an
idea, though.  I'd be willing to throw in a little time to get this stuff
organized.  One of the list members was keeping up a source listing for EFI
parts and books, etc., but I havent heard of anything new lately.  I don't
remember where it was posted, either.  Yo, Johnny, ya got some place we can
put this stuff?





regards
dn
dnorquay@awinc.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 03:38:29 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: pantera@pobox.com (David Doddek)
Subject: Re: Re Propane injectors
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Reply-To: diy_efi

Craig wrote:

>Is there such a thing as an electronically controlled diesel injector?
>(aka instead of the usual mechanical fuel pump distributor thing..)
>
Yes:

But diesel injection needs around 25,000 psi of fuel pressure, so the
injector is a plunger piston pump that is operated off a lobe of the cam
shaft (twice as wide as the one that opens the valves).  The electric
solenoid is a bypass port that when ON blocks the outlet of the injector
'pump' and forces it into the cylinder.  When OFF the flow returns to the
fuel tank.

David J. Doddek                                          |pantera@pobox.com
Owner SGD Electronics & Development Engr for Caterpillar |h 309 685-7965
Formula SAE Team Sidewinder 94-95                        |w 309 578-2931
89 T-bird SC,  69 Fairlane w/SGD EFI                     |fx 217 428-4686
74 Pantera w/Electromotive Tec-II Twin turbos and Nitros |
Hey, If you are going to go fast, go REEEAAL FAST.       |


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 04:28:37 1996
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From: Craig Pugsley <c.pugsley@trl.telstra.com.au>
Message-Id: <199609050417.OAA08685@shiva.trl.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: Re Propane injectors
To: diy_efi
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 14:17:02 +1000 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <9609050334.AA02845@wagner.mtco.com> from "David Doddek" at Sep 4, 96 10:34:24 pm
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> >Is there such a thing as an electronically controlled diesel injector?
> >(aka instead of the usual mechanical fuel pump distributor thing..)
> >
> Yes:
> 
> But diesel injection needs around 25,000 psi of fuel pressure, so the
> injector is a plunger piston pump that is operated off a lobe of the cam
> shaft (twice as wide as the one that opens the valves).  The electric
> solenoid is a bypass port that when ON blocks the outlet of the injector
> 'pump' and forces it into the cylinder.  When OFF the flow returns to the
> fuel tank.

Aaah, I see why "EFI diesels" are only recently appearing. Do they
really use 25000 PSI?? I thought it would only be a few hundred PSI.

Craig.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 05:50:40 1996
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Date: Thu, 05 Sep 96 13:58:50 
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re[2]: Re Propane injectors
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Reply-To: diy_efi


     Guess you don't want a pipe to burst while you are leaning over it, or 
     you may just loose a few body parts.


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Re Propane injectors
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
Date:    9/5/96 1:11 PM


Craig wrote:
     
>Is there such a thing as an electronically controlled diesel injector? 
>(aka instead of the usual mechanical fuel pump distributor thing..)
>
Yes:
     
But diesel injection needs around 25,000 psi of fuel pressure, so the 
injector is a plunger piston pump that is operated off a lobe of the cam 
shaft (twice as wide as the one that opens the valves).  The electric 
solenoid is a bypass port that when ON blocks the outlet of the injector 
'pump' and forces it into the cylinder.  When OFF the flow returns to the 
fuel tank.
     
David J. Doddek                                          |pantera@pobox.com 
Owner SGD Electronics & Development Engr for Caterpillar |h 309 685-7965 
Formula SAE Team Sidewinder 94-95                        |w 309 578-2931
89 T-bird SC,  69 Fairlane w/SGD EFI                     |fx 217 428-4686 
74 Pantera w/Electromotive Tec-II Twin turbos and Nitros |
Hey, If you are going to go fast, go REEEAAL FAST.       |
     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 07:14:02 1996
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Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 09:10:39 +0200
To: DIY_EFI
From: walter.kaufmann@sd.id.ethz.ch (Walter Kaufmann)
Subject: Re: Knock sensor spectrum?
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Reply-To: diy_efi

>At 07:00 PM 9/4/96 +0200, you wrote:
>>Hello Walter
>>
>>You can have more informations about this problem by  the application note:
>>
>>17. ENGINE KNOCK DETECTION USING TMS320C25 AND TMS320C30 DSPS
>>APPLICATION REPORT
>>
>>     spra039.pdf (329 KBytes)
>>
>Can this be put on one of the FTP sites or Web pages?
>
>Sandy

Yes:http://www.ti.com/sc/docs/psheets/appnote.htm



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 10:15:15 1996
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Date: 05 Sep 96 06:03:56 EDT
From: David Redpath <101513.357@CompuServe.COM>
To: DIY_EFI <diy_efi>
Subject: FORTH ISBN
Message-ID: <960905100355_101513.357_IHP110-1@CompuServe.COM>
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Reply-To: diy_efi

The book I mentioned 'FORTH: The New Model'
is by Jack Woehr.

The ISBN is 0-13-036328-6.


hope that's useful.

As far as The Hitachi H8 I talked about.
more info available on http://www.hitachi.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 10:18:40 1996
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Date: Wed, 04 Sep 1996 18:35:00 +0000
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Ancient History
To: diy_efi
Message-id: <296470.7.uupcb@chaos.lrk.ar.us>
Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059
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-> If you run the injectors beyond 80% dwell, they become erratic and
-> the flow rates go to hell.  Stay below 80% and you'll make your
-> engine much happier.

 I've hung injectors open for ten minutes at a time on the test bench
without any trouble.


->  Also, if you're running above 80%, you can burn
-> your driver circuitry out prematurely.

 I've played with a Galant VR-4 with the DSM test unit.  On the
road at WOT it will run the injectors to 98%.  I've observed 95% on a
'90 Corvette with Diacom.  Both of these cars survive extended periods
at WOT at track events, and have for years.


====dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us========================DoD#978=======
  can you help me...help me get out of this place?...slow sedation...
ain't my style, ain't my pace...giving me a number...NINE, SEVEN, EIGHT
==5.0 RX7 -> Tyrannosaurus RX! == SAE '82 == Denizens of Doom M/C '92==
                                                                    

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 10:40:38 1996
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From: "GEORGE LERM" <GEORGE@REDXCH.WCAPE.GOV.ZA>
To: DIY_EFI
Date:          Thu, 5 Sep 1996 12:31:50 GMT-2
Subject:       Electronic Ignition
Priority: normal
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Reply-To: diy_efi

Hi

Cool list!
Does anyone know of any DIY_Electronic Ignition mailing lists.
I would like to explore the options of experimenting with a 
distributorless ignition for my VW Beetle.

Any suggestions,help or comments would be appreciated.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 13:06:17 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Knock sensor spectrum?
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Reply-To: diy_efi

>At 07:00 PM 9/4/96 +0200, you wrote:
>>Hello Walter 
>>
>>You can have more informations about this problem by  the application note:
>>
>>17. ENGINE KNOCK DETECTION USING TMS320C25 AND TMS320C30 DSPS
>>APPLICATION REPORT
>>
>>     spra039.pdf (329 KBytes)
>> 
>Can this be put on one of the FTP sites or Web pages?
>
>Sandy
>

I downlowded this app (all 63 pages or so) yesterday.  I can send
it to anyone that wants it -- could also repose (sic?) it into
some repository!

tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 13:16:33 1996
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Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 15:09:09 +0200
To: diy_efi
From: walter.kaufmann@sd.id.ethz.ch (Walter Kaufmann)
Subject: Re: Electronic Ignition
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Reply-To: diy_efi

Hi George,

I would be interested to in a eletronic ignition mailing list. My Austin Mini
is waiting for an electronic distributerless ignition....

If you know more about a 'ign' list, I would be interested too!

Thanks
Walter



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 14:17:38 1996
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From: Jens Knickmeyer <knick@ibr.cs.tu-bs.de>
Message-Id: <199609051355.PAA09219@ares.ibr.cs.tu-bs.de>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #259
To: diy_efi
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 15:55:35 +0200 (MET DST)
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.3.93.960904173333.8631B-100000@yukon.gsfc.nasa.gov> from "Daniel Ridge" at Sep 4, 96 05:36:59 pm
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<Daniel Ridge> wrote:
> 
> > >What's Digifant?  
> > >
> > >RD
> > 
> > Just another vw fuel system that was for all intents and purposes was
> > propietary and short lived. I believe it was used on late 60's early
> > 70's squarebeeks. The name was repulsive enough to keep me from ever 
> > learning about it.
> 
> The Vanagon kept Digifant and four-speed transmissions and the leading
> edge of automotive technology for many years (snicker).
> 
> How could it not be a Bosch system, though? I know little about it, but it
> was my understanding that Digifant bridged the gap between LJet and
> Motronic (ie integrated spark but dumber brain)
> 
> What is it really?
> 
> -Dan

Digifant is, as you said, a bridge between LJet and Motronic and handles
ignition and injection. The injection system is the same as the Digijet
which is also called L2-Jet. It was the first LJet which used digital 
instead of analog design. The L3-Jet is nearly the same, except that
the ECU is mounted on the AFM. The Digifant's injection system is
a MPI, all injectors are batched.

Digifant includes an ignition which is based upon the Dignition. It
controls dwell and timing, the supercharged engines and some high
compression engines have a know sensor. The knock sensor's signal is
filtered by an analog filter circuitry and is measured only in a small
window after ignition (simply done by switching the filered signal to
the MCU by a CD4066).

The Digifant ECU is a "multi purpose" ECU, it can be used with a MAP or
a MAF sensor, with or without knock sensor. MAP is used on the supercharged
engines, MAF on the other ones (this goes for German VWs, situation might
be different in other countries). When the Digifant came out in the early
'80s, it used two MCUs, a 80xx and a 68HC05. Later, VW switched to one HC11 
instead of using two MCUs. Digifant has an OBD which got more sophisticated
over teh years of production. The first ECUs had a blink code output, later
a high speed diagnostic interface was used.

Digifant ECUs are produced by Bosch (small cases) and Siemens (large 
cases).

Jens ('92 VW Polo-G40)


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 16:44:52 1996
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From: Sandy <sganz@westworld.com>
Subject: Re: Knock sensor spectrum?
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How about posting it to John's FTP site?

>>>You can have more informations about this problem by  the application note:
>>>
>>>17. ENGINE KNOCK DETECTION USING TMS320C25 AND TMS320C30 DSPS
>>>APPLICATION REPORT
>>>
>>>     spra039.pdf (329 KBytes)
>>> 
>


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 17:57:53 1996
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From: Todd King <Todd_King@ccm.co.intel.com>
Message-ID: <Thu, 05 Sep 96 10:49:08 PDT_6@ccm.jf.intel.com>
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  <<<   From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
  Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 13:48:37 +-200
  Subject: RE: d disease
  Durrr me dunno either, what is DIGIFANT?
  Mark
  >>>
  
  DIGIFANT was a great Mastodon that once lived in the Black Forest;
  Teutonic mythology claims that his weight was "over 10,000 stone"
  and height "over 100 hands". He was said to posses great digital
  design skills, due primarily to a tremendous memory capacity...
  
  Todd  Todd_King@ccm.co.intel.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 18:13:16 1996
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walter.kaufmann@sd.id.ethz.ch (Walter Kaufmann) Wrote:
| 
| Hi George,
| 
| I would be interested to in a eletronic ignition mailing list. My Austin 
Mini
| is waiting for an electronic distributerless ignition....
| 
| If you know more about a 'ign' list, I would be interested too!
| 
| Thanks
| Walter
| 
| 
| 

You guys are on it.  Despite the EFI in the name, this list is for engine 
management, including ignition.  so fire away.

Steve Ravet
sravet@bangate.compaq.com
Baby you're a genius when it comes to cooking up some chili sauce...

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 18:21:19 1996
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From: Rod Barman <rodb@cs.ubc.ca>
To: diy_efi
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Message-ID: <"4726*rodb@cs.ubc.ca"@MHS>
Subject: Check out the C31 DSK (was Re: Knock sensor spectrum?)
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Those of you thinking of fiddling with engine knock on a dsp should check
out TI's el-cheapo C31 DSK.  More info can be found at 

	"http://www.ti.com/sc/c3xdsk"

--rod.

--
Rod Barman, IRIS IS-6 @ Laboratory for Computational Intelligence
University of British Columbia
rodb@cs.ubc.ca


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 19:12:15 1996
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In a message dated 96-09-04 16:06:27 EDT, wright@uspto.gov (Dirk Wright)
writes:

>I remember my old alfa with the spica mechanical injection had one 
>throttle per cylinder. pretty cool.

So does the Lotus Turbo Esprit, but with elctronic fuel injection....

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 19:33:33 1996
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From: Fredrik Jeppsson <fredrik.jeppsson@mbox300.swipnet.se>
Subject: Multispark ignition "computers"
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Hello from Sweden,

I am considering upgrading the stock Lucas/Bosch ignitiion in my 1988 EFI
Range Rover (3.5 liter ex buick V8). I would really appreciate some opinions
and words of experience on the performance / smoothness improvements after
adding one of those boxes between the trigger device and the ignition
amplifier. I am also interested in the effect of performance coils marketed
by the same companies (Jacobs, MSD and others).

 Fredrik Jeppsson
                                   
* FAE, Embedded development tools     *
* Nohau Elektronik AB, Malmoe, Sweden *
*                                     *
* 1988 Range Rover EFI                *
* 1990 Citroen XM V6                  *



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 20:12:39 1996
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From: John.Beggs@BCHydro.bc.ca (John W. Beggs)
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>You guys are on it.  Despite the EFI in the name, this list is for engine 
>management, including ignition.  so fire away.


Tim Drury wrote an excellent paper on a Digital Distributorless Ignition System.
Try http://spbted.gtri.gatech.edu and look for Tim's name, etc.

John W. Beggs,
BC Hydro, 6911 Southpoint Dr., Burnaby, BC, V3N 4X8, Canada.
Voice: (604)528-2776, FAX: (604)528-1883, EMail: john.beggs@bchydro.bc.ca  

                      


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 20:19:44 1996
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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Knock sensor spectrum?
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>How about posting it to John's FTP site?

Be glad to .... what's it??


>
>>>>You can have more informations about this problem by  the application note:
>>>>
>>>>17. ENGINE KNOCK DETECTION USING TMS320C25 AND TMS320C30 DSPS
>>>>APPLICATION REPORT
>>>>
>>>>     spra039.pdf (329 KBytes)
>>>> 
>>
>
>
>


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 20:28:15 1996
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Date: Thu, 05 Sep 1996 13:25:09 +0000
From: Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>
Organization: Protomotive Engineering
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John Faubion wrote:
> 
> Actually the big reason for multivalve chambers is more area is exposed
> around the valve to flow fuel. Two small valves have much more flow
> capacity than 1 large valve but is more expensive that manufacture.

That's also what Yamaha though, they went to 5 valves to get even more
flow.  They did pick up flow, but on the F1 motors the 4 valve engines
made more power still.  
Point is.  It's not all flow, but combustion chamber shape and flame
propogation as well.

Todd Knighton
Protomotive Engineering

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 21:05:23 1996
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From: Mark Eidson <mark.eidson@tempe.vlsi.com>
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Is there a stock or aftermarket EFI manifold similar to the 5.0 liter late
model Ford for the 351W?  me
***************************************************************************
* Mark Eidson                        Voice: (602)752-6513                 *
* Staff Design Engineer                Fax: (602)752-6000                 *
* Manager System Integration and                                          *
*   Verification                    E-Mail:  mark.eidson@tempe.vlsi.com   *
* VLSI Technology, Inc.                                                   *
* 8375 South River Parkway                                                *
* M/S 265                                                                 *
* Tempe, Arizona     85284                                                *
***************************************************************************


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From: "Tony Bryant" <bryantt@psc.fp.co.nz>
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To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 09:11:45 +1200
Subject: Electronic Ignition
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Does the ignition condensor/capactitor serve any function
other than to reduce arcing across points? Do I need one
if I switch using a transistor? (with 400V zener clamp)

Facts, not theories, please..

***********************************************************
* "Insanity is the only sane response to an insane world" *
*                 >> bryantt@fp.co.nz <<                  *
***********************************************************

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 21:33:37 1996
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Subject: Re: Ford 351W Intake Manifold
To: diy_efi
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 16:30:51 -0500 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <2.2.16.19960905140357.0a87298e@tempepop> from "Mark Eidson" at Sep 5, 96 02:05:43 pm
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> 
> Is there a stock or aftermarket EFI manifold similar to the 5.0 liter late
> model Ford for the 351W?  me

Yes, look on the 95 full-size trucks and I think the SVO Ranger.
Also look in the Ford Motorsports catalog.

-- 
Matthew D. Sale,  IC Development Engineer, Delco Electronics Corp.
msale@holli.com   http://www.holli.com/~msale
'69 Mustang 351W 5-spd (13.656@103MPH using cave-man technology).

All responses are my own and should not be mistaken
for those of Delco Electronics or General Motors.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 22:01:50 1996
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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 1996 20:54:30 +0100
To: diy_efi
From: Jonathan Lloyd <john@jall.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Ancient History
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In message <Pine.SUN.3.91.960903082022.12519C-100000@pioneer.uspto.gov>,
Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov> writes
>On Mon, 2 Sep 1996, Robert J. Harris wrote:
>> 
>> Liquid fuel does not burn - period.  It must be vaporized before it burns.
>
>Um, sorry. Gasoline vapor explodes, it does not burn. Liqiud gasoline 
>burns. Gasoline vapor ignited in a combustion chamber will cause 
>
>****************************************************************************
>Dirk Wright                                                wright@uspto.gov
>
Excuse the butt in but liquid fuel does burn, try throwing a match into
a bowl of gasoline, and vapour does not neccessarily "explode".
The chamber will be full of vapour and droplets of various sizes prior
to spark.  As the temp and pressure rise the oxygen in the air
dissociates ( a very temp dependent effect) and provides the oxygen
radicle neccessary for combination with the hydrocarbon mix.  Explosion
occurs when the temp is high enough to dissociate the hydrocarbons and
is a function of "quality" i.e. octane rating in which case the whole
cylinder contains free oxygen and free hydrocarbon radicals and the
whole lot reacts at once.  Bad news , knock , damage etc.  The fuel
should be a high enough octane rating to suppress dissociation.
Reaction is then totally determined by the spark and a flame front is
created.  What is wanted is not the fastest burn possible but a good
start and prolonged long enough to finish some way down the power
stroke.  The flame speed of the vapour for a given mixture is
calculatable and reaches the cylinder walls quickly igniting the
droplets as it goes.  They continue to burn and any droplets too big
will be exhausted without having provided all the power they could have
done.
-- 
Jonathan Lloyd     john@anergy.demon.co.uk

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 22:13:38 1996
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From: Daniel Ridge <newt@cesdis1.gsfc.nasa.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: hi compressions: wasDIY_EFI Digest V1 #258
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On Thu, 5 Sep 1996, Todd Knighton wrote:

> John Faubion wrote:
> > 
> > Actually the big reason for multivalve chambers is more area is exposed
> > around the valve to flow fuel. Two small valves have much more flow
> > capacity than 1 large valve but is more expensive that manufacture.
> 
> That's also what Yamaha though, they went to 5 valves to get even more
> flow.  They did pick up flow, but on the F1 motors the 4 valve engines
> made more power still.  
> Point is.  It's not all flow, but combustion chamber shape and flame
> propogation as well.

Well, I don't think anybody thought that multivalves flow better per unit
area of opening.... 

Todd's right about chamber shape and flame proopgation. Multivalves are a
hack around the hard limits that geometry places on things -- we're
constrained to have circular valves, it's tough to use real estate well
when you are nesting circles(valves) in circles(cylinder(head)s). The
multivalve people didn't want multivales -- they really wanted rectangular
valves :).

Two small valves have worse flow (per unit area) than one large valve, but
you can get better aggregate flow with multivalves with a larger total
area than would be possible with univalve configurations.

-Dan

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\___/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
   Daniel Ridge                      |   USRA  CESDIS
   Research Minion, Beowulf Project  |   Code 930.5
   email: newt@cesdis.gsfc.nasa.gov  |   Nimbus Rd., Bldg. 28, Rm. W274
   tel:   301-286-3062               |   Goddard Space Flight Center
   fax:   301-286-1777               |   Greenbelt, MD.  20771
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\_|_/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                http://cesdis.gsfc.nasa.gov/people/newt


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On Fri, 6 Sep 1996, Tony Bryant wrote:

> Does the ignition condensor/capactitor serve any function
> other than to reduce arcing across points? Do I need one
> if I switch using a transistor? (with 400V zener clamp)

Points? Eh? :)

> 
> Facts, not theories, please..

I don't know that this is the best place (or even should be) for facts.
There are too many (like standards) to choose from. 

-Dan

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\___/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
   Daniel Ridge                      |   USRA  CESDIS
   Research Minion, Beowulf Project  |   Code 930.5
   email: newt@cesdis.gsfc.nasa.gov  |   Nimbus Rd., Bldg. 28, Rm. W274
   tel:   301-286-3062               |   Goddard Space Flight Center
   fax:   301-286-1777               |   Greenbelt, MD.  20771
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\_|_/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                http://cesdis.gsfc.nasa.gov/people/newt


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 22:50:42 1996
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At 03:16 PM 9/5/96 -0500, you wrote:
>>How about posting it to John's FTP site?
>
>Be glad to .... what's it??
>

The site address (at last recollection)

ftp://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

Place the files in the 'Incomming' directory

Sandy


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 23:35:48 1996
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Daniel Ridge <newt@cesdis1.gsfc.nasa.gov> Wrote:
| Todd's right about chamber shape and flame proopgation. Multivalves are a
| hack around the hard limits that geometry places on things -- we're
| constrained to have circular valves, it's tough to use real estate well
| when you are nesting circles(valves) in circles(cylinder(head)s). The
| multivalve people didn't want multivales -- they really wanted 
rectangular
| valves :).

This might be a dumb question, but why not non-circular valves?  I guess 
they wouldn't be able to spin.  Is that a problem?  I can see corners being 
bad, but what about a nice oval shape?

--steve

Steve Ravet
sravet@bangate.compaq.com
Baby you're a genius when it comes to cooking up some chili sauce...

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 23:40:13 1996
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"Tony Bryant" <bryantt@psc.fp.co.nz> Wrote:
| 
| Does the ignition condensor/capactitor serve any function
| other than to reduce arcing across points? Do I need one
| if I switch using a transistor? (with 400V zener clamp)
| 
| Facts, not theories, please..
| 
| ***********************************************************
| * "Insanity is the only sane response to an insane world" *
| *                 >> bryantt@fp.co.nz <<                  *
| ***********************************************************
| 

Are you talking about electronic ignition or point ignition?  I've never 
actually worked on a point ignition (not that old), but I'm pretty sure the 
condensor stores a charge, which is discharged thru the coil to make a 
spark.  That is CD (capacitive discharge) ignition.  Electronic ignitions 
usually charge the coil primary during the dwell period, interrupting the 
charge causes the field to collapse and generate a spark, no capacitor 
needed.  HEI ignitions (from GM) are electronic, but have a condensor.  The 
only purpose of the condensor is noise suppression for the radio, however.  
The car will run fine without it.

--steve

Steve Ravet
sravet@bangate.compaq.com
Baby you're a genius when it comes to cooking up some chili sauce...

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep  5 23:47:22 1996
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Date: 	Thu, 05 Sep 1996 15:29:44 -0700
To: diy_efi
From: peter paul fenske <pfenske@direct.ca>
Subject: Vats
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Hello Guys

Built a Vats defeat. Used a 555 driving a 3904 via a 2.7K resistor.
This is because the ECM wants to see a open collector driving the
passkey port. The components I used were a 15K for Ra, a 50k pot and
a 68K resistor in series for Rb, and a 0.2 ufd timing cap.

Midway on the pot produced the 30 Hz. Works to 92 on F body.

Just to make it simplier for the next guy.

By the way the new Passkey II can't be quite as easily defeated.
There is a adaptive algorithm in this one.

Later guys: peter


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 03:12:45 1996
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Subject: Re: Electronic Ignition
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At 09:11 AM 9/6/96 +1200, you wrote:

>Does the ignition condensor/capactitor serve any function
>other than to reduce arcing across points? Do I need one
>if I switch using a transistor? (with 400V zener clamp)

The cap also damps ringing of the ignition coil when the points open. Most
electronic ignitions do not have one, although it probably won't hurt to
leave it in.



regards
dn
dnorquay@awinc.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 03:18:13 1996
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>cylinder contains free oxygen and free hydrocarbon radicals and the
>whole lot reacts at once.  Bad news , knock , damage etc. 

Not exactly true.  Combustion pressure, temperature and radiation are 
required to initiate knock, which is where areas in the combustion 
chamber auto-ignite causing several flame fronts to develop 
uncontrolled.

>What is wanted is not the fastest burn possible but a good
>start and prolonged long enough to finish some way down the power
>stroke. 

In theory, you want as fast a burn-rate as possible (to minimise 
BSFC), however the pressure rise rate will limit this.  High pressure 
rise rates will excite the block, head etc at various natural 
frequencies, increasing the engine noise.  (Diesel engines are the 
extreme of this)

> ....quickly igniting the droplets as it goes.  They continue to burn 
>and any droplets too big will be exhausted without having provided 
>all the power they could have done.

Large fuel droplets cause soot formation.




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 03:51:55 1996
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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 11:30:32 est
To: diy_efi
Subject: re: Manifold/throttle bodys-ED:-)
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>In a message dated 96-09-04 16:06:27 EDT, wright@uspto.gov (Dirk 
>Wright)
>writes:
>
>>I remember my old alfa with the spica mechanical injection had one 
>>throttle per cylinder. pretty cool.
>
>So does the Lotus Turbo Esprit, but with elctronic fuel injection....

So do all EFI Alfa 33/145/146 boxer engines.

Does anyone know what would happen if you joined all the chokes 
together on the down-stream side of each throttle, kind of like 
forming a mini-plenum for improving balance robustness at low throttle 
openings, but still allowing the correct runner design and plenum 
volume up-stream of the blades for WOT performance?

Anyone tried this?  Any theories?





From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 06:58:23 1996
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From: DJohn77284@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 02:53:32 -0400
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Tom,

I'd appreciate a copy of the application note spra039.pdf if possible.

Just some bedtime reading - like you do.....

Thanks

Dave
DJohn77284@aol.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 07:24:52 1996
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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 03:21:07 -0400
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Yamaha, again, have used this method in the past on some of there air-cooled
motrocycle engines. They called it 'YICS' - Yamaha Induction Control System.

I don't know whether there were any real benefits or that it was just a
gimick.

They also tried seven valve heads - four inlet, three exhaust - before
settling with five valves.

Regards,

Dave
DJohn77284@aol.com

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Subject: Condensor/Capacitor for Ignition Coil
To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 12:22:51 +0200 (sat)
From: Kalle Pihlajasaari <kalle@device.data.co.za>
In-Reply-To: <vines.Q097+e+q9mA@bangate.compaq.com> from "SRavet@bangate.compaq.com" at Sep 5, 96 06:24:16 pm
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Hi All,

Long discource on Points capacitors.

Steve Ravet wrote
> "Tony Bryant" <bryantt@psc.fp.co.nz> Wrote:
> | Does the ignition condensor/capactitor serve any function
> | other than to reduce arcing across points? Do I need one
> | if I switch using a transistor? (with 400V zener clamp)
> | 
> | Facts, not theories, please..
> | 
> | ***********************************************************
> | * "Insanity is the only sane response to an insane world" *
> | *                 >> bryantt@fp.co.nz <<                  *
> | ***********************************************************
> 
> Are you talking about electronic ignition or point ignition?  I've never 
> actually worked on a point ignition (not that old), but I'm pretty sure the 
> condensor stores a charge, which is discharged thru the coil to make a 
> spark.  That is CD (capacitive discharge) ignition.  Electronic ignitions 
> usually charge the coil primary during the dwell period, interrupting the 
> charge causes the field to collapse and generate a spark, no capacitor 
> needed.  HEI ignitions (from GM) are electronic, but have a condensor.  The 
> only purpose of the condensor is noise suppression for the radio, however.  
> The car will run fine without it.

There are a few things getting mixed up here.

We have the oldie Ignition coil system that stores the spark energy
in the magnetic field of the SOFT iron in the middle of the coil
the energy is not stored in the windings (primary or secondary) but is 
charged or discharged using these windings.

The Capacitor Discharge Ignition systems store the energy in the 
potential of a capacitor and they are ususally charged to a higher
than battery voltage with some sort of chopper circuit in high energy
devices otherwise you need a large capacitor and a low impedance coil
usually a standard 9 Volt ingnition coil, the high voltage CD 
systems can use smaller high impedance coils with much less Iron in them 
as they do no want to store the energy in the core, they want the spark
when they dump the cap into the coil not when the field collapses.

The electronic points system is a standard Mag storage system with 
just a transistor switch to save on contact errosion on a set of
points.

There is also a high frequency system used in some cars that makes
use of a Ironless low impedance coil and drives it with a high 
frequency to get multiple sparks during the time the distributor
rotor is pointing at the cylinder starting at the firing point
this means that turbulence cannot cause a misfire.


===== NOW =====
That little capacitor in the Mag store systems across the points
OR the transistor switch.  It is required.  Back in the Boys Brigade
{similar to scouts} when I was an ignorant 11, I took an instructor
to task about it being only for suppression but he maintained it was
for storage (we were both wrong).  I was so cock-sure that we ended up 
trooping out to test this on the instructors car and sure enough
it would not run without the cap in place (big blow to my ego). Later
when styding 1st year Circuit theory at university we used the Ignition
coil and Capacitor TANK cicuit as an example for damped occilation
calculations.  The Capacitor and coil form a resonant circuit which
does not allow the magnetic field to collapse too fast.  The two results
of a too fast collapse are firstly that the voltage on the coil primary
may rise to the point that it arcs across the points, this will cause a 
sustained current in the primary and will result in too slow a discharge
of the magnetif field and hence a low voltage long spark.  The other
result you will find in the case of no points (or transistor) arcing
is that the spark will be too high a voltage and will flash over in the
insulation inside or outside the coil and cause the spark to be quenched
before it has a chance to ignite the fuel-air mix.  Plug lead inductance
can cause the voltage to arc first inside the coil before your real fast
spark even gets to the plugs.
===== cut =====

The suppression capacitor is the one you often see attached to the 
B+ terminal on a Alternator and is to get rid of the alternator 
whine from the radio &c.

If you want a faster rise time and higher voltage shorter striking spark
you can try using less capacitance and the rise time will be reduced, you can
try two capacitors in series (buy two at the same time othewise you may
exceed the voltage rating of one) or if you think that a lower strike
voltage is enough you can use two capacitors in parallel.  Remember that
all of this only matters until the arc is formed at the spark plug
at which point you have a constant energy discharge that will dissapate
the stored magnetic field at a much lower sustaining voltage of about
2-5kV whilst the striking voltage is between 8 and 16 kV.

Cheers
-- 
Kalle Pihlajasaari     kalle@data.co.za
Interface Products     Box 15775, Doornfontein, 2028, South Africa
+27 (11) 402-7750      Fax: +27 (11) 402-7751

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 10:47:01 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'DIY EFI'" <diy_efi>,
        "'SRavet@bangate.compaq.com'" <SRavet@bangate.compaq.com>
Subject: RE: Re: hi compressions: wasDIY_EFI Digest V1 #258
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 11:51:36 +-200
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BB9BF1.0F3CFF60
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You are better off with oval pistons, seeing as pistons cant turn, and =
makes the head a much better shape for fitting multi valves into , or =
just 2 big valves, but remember guys.... If you want revs as well =
(which, I don't think many of you Americans do... (cubes don't make =
revs)), you need small low mass valves so that they can close in time!

Here is a silly twin spark idea:
=20
If you get my drift (or for that matter....... My email works :))

Mark

----------
From:  SRavet@bangate.compaq.com[SMTP:SRavet@bangate.compaq.com]
Sent:  Friday, September 06, 1996 1:17 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  re: Re: hi compressions: wasDIY_EFI Digest V1 #258

Daniel Ridge <newt@cesdis1.gsfc.nasa.gov> Wrote:
| Todd's right about chamber shape and flame proopgation. Multivalves =
are a
| hack around the hard limits that geometry places on things -- we're
| constrained to have circular valves, it's tough to use real estate =
well
| when you are nesting circles(valves) in circles(cylinder(head)s). The
| multivalve people didn't want multivales -- they really wanted=20
rectangular
| valves :).

This might be a dumb question, but why not non-circular valves?  I guess =

they wouldn't be able to spin.  Is that a problem?  I can see corners =
being=20
bad, but what about a nice oval shape?

--steve

Steve Ravet
sravet@bangate.compaq.com
Baby you're a genius when it comes to cooking up some chili sauce...


------ =_NextPart_000_01BB9BF1.0F3CFF60--


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 10:47:05 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'DIY EFI'" <diy_efi>, "'SnoMo1@aol.com'"
	 <SnoMo1@aol.com>
Subject: RE: Ancient History
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 11:54:32 +-200
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To an Englishman, these figures are crazy! 
How many ponies are you getting out of these engines?

Mark


----------
From:  SnoMo1@aol.com[SMTP:SnoMo1@aol.com]
Sent:  Wednesday, September 04, 1996 5:53 PM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Re: Ancient History

Gentlemen,
I have been on this list for some time now, and have found your discussions
informative, and interesting. This latest thread (discussions of gas milage
from a big block) has finally prompted me to ask a question. 
Why is it  a 3500 lb big block car can get 12mpg when on the other end of the
weight (and size) spectrum, my parents have a 14,000 +lb motorhome powered by
a 454 chevy (tbi), with ovedrive, 5.13 ? gears, 20" wheels (rim dia) , and
the areodynamics of a house, and still get 10-11mpg on the highway. And, when
pulling a towed 3700lb 
vehicle (Brono II 4x4) they still get 8-10mpg. This has been documented over
10's of thousands of miles. 
And yet, if I buy a full size truck with 4-wheel drive and a 5.0 to 5.8 litre
V-8, I can only excpect 16mpg? Do you think that possibly many vehicles are
being over-geared? I recently changed the gears on my 2.8 L ford ranger from
3.73 to 4.11 and actually saw a slight increase in mileage. I think this was
cause by always having the foot to the floor. Now, the engine revs higher,
but I notice the pedal isn't constantly kissing the carpet. And, by the way I
did take into account the odometer error after changing the gears (plural,
4-wheel drive makes changing gears a pain!).


Just thinking outloud again,

Mark



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 10:47:10 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'DIY EFI'" <diy_efi>,
        "'SRavet@bangate.compaq.com'" <SRavet@bangate.compaq.com>
Subject: RE: Electronic Ignition
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 11:46:39 +-200
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Come on now guys.... The cap on points is to stop arcing at the points, =
and therefore erosion of the breaker terminals. If you take the cap off, =
it all still works, but the contact breaker pads weld to each other, =
then the distributor cam forces them apart, ripping the surface off one =
side, this is generally considered BAD!

CD ignition requires a much bigger cap, as it is the cap discharging =
into the coil that gives all the 'bang', not the collapse of the mag =
field.=20

Theory simplified:

Transformers are AC.
They induce a current in the secondary proportional to that in the =
primary (by number of turns primary to no. turns secodary).

Normal points ignition gets the coil 'saturated'. I.e. it has dc flowing =
through it. This DC comes from the points. They bit that induces the =
spark is when the points open, and the magnetic field no longer is =
supported by the DC. Something has to give. The current would continue =
to flow for a short time AFTER the points open, through plasma as the =
points arc. This is taken care of by the condenser 'buffering' this =
effect, by allowing current to flow for a short time thro' it, mean =
while the points are sufficiently open for the relatively small back EMF =
from the coil not to jump the gap, and the dielectric in the cap is also =
strong enough to hold it.=20

So now we have a coil with a magnetic field that is about to collapse. =
The back EMF caused by the collapsing field  will try and go anywhere. =
The points are now safe, they are open, with sufficient gap that arcing =
wont happen there, and the insulator (dielectric) in the cap (condenser) =
is strong enough to cope without breakdown, so the only other rout out =
for all this energy is through the secondary (which has a hell of a lot =
more turns, (if you want transformers which is what a coil is =
explained.. ask) and therefor a lot more voltage, but less current, but =
its volts that jump gaps (like spark plugs!).



Cap discharge...
charge up a big cap to hold the energy, instead of creating a stable mag =
field.
Connect this cap to a coil primary with a big mosfet or whatever you =
fancy.
Coils do not like building up magfields, they create BACK EMF to oppose =
the current trying to flow through them. This back emf is also induced =
on the secondary, but higher voltage, and this jumps the plug gap, =
thereby giving a rout for the energy to dissipate.


Before anybody kicks my ass... I know this isnt complete, and I know its =
not all strictly correct, but if ya know that... I didn't write this for =
you! This is quite good enough for most people to follow (I hope :)).

Mark.


----------
From:  SRavet@bangate.compaq.com[SMTP:SRavet@bangate.compaq.com]
Sent:  Friday, September 06, 1996 1:24 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  re: Electronic Ignition

"Tony Bryant" <bryantt@psc.fp.co.nz> Wrote:
|=20
| Does the ignition condensor/capactitor serve any function
| other than to reduce arcing across points? Do I need one
| if I switch using a transistor? (with 400V zener clamp)
|=20
| Facts, not theories, please..
|=20
| ***********************************************************
| * "Insanity is the only sane response to an insane world" *
| *                 >> bryantt@fp.co.nz <<                  *
| ***********************************************************
|=20

Are you talking about electronic ignition or point ignition?  I've never =

actually worked on a point ignition (not that old), but I'm pretty sure =
the=20
condensor stores a charge, which is discharged thru the coil to make a=20
spark.  That is CD (capacitive discharge) ignition.  Electronic =
ignitions=20
usually charge the coil primary during the dwell period, interrupting =
the=20
charge causes the field to collapse and generate a spark, no capacitor=20
needed.  HEI ignitions (from GM) are electronic, but have a condensor.  =
The=20
only purpose of the condensor is noise suppression for the radio, =
however. =20
The car will run fine without it.

--steve

Steve Ravet
sravet@bangate.compaq.com
Baby you're a genius when it comes to cooking up some chili sauce...



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 10:47:14 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'Sandy'"
	 <sganz@westworld.com>
Subject: RE: Ancient History
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 12:12:29 +-200
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A few points:

for real serious stuff 2 injectors are good... 1 hi flo and 1 lo flo, =
with the lo flo for tick over, and fine adjust the big injector. This =
gives fine control at closed throttle, and the high flo is good for WOT.
Running injects flat out can cause them to stick, and overheat, and burn =
out the driver electronics.


Mark

----------
From:  Sandy[SMTP:sganz@westworld.com]
Sent:  Thursday, September 05, 1996 3:39 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Re: Ancient History

> Once you go to full throttle the injector pulsewidth should approach
>100%; basically the injector is on all the time.  At idle and low RPM

I'm not sure how close to 100% is good, I have the idea that is should =
be
less then that as that can lead to injector and driver overheating.






From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 10:47:27 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <DIY_EFI>,
        "'GEORGE LERM'"
	 <GEORGE@redxch.wcape.gov.za>
Subject: RE: Electronic Ignition
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 12:26:42 +-200
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Hey dude... right list already... we do the bang bit here as well as the squirty bit!
Mark

----------
From:  GEORGE LERM[SMTP:GEORGE@redxch.wcape.gov.za]
Sent:  Thursday, September 05, 1996 2:32 PM
To:  DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Electronic Ignition

Hi

Cool list!
Does anyone know of any DIY_Electronic Ignition mailing lists.
I would like to explore the options of experimenting with a 
distributorless ignition for my VW Beetle.

Any suggestions,help or comments would be appreciated.




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 10:47:27 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'RABBITT_Andrew@mv8.orbeng.com.au'" <RABBITT_Andrew@mv8.orbeng.com.au>
Subject: RE: Ancient History
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 12:14:39 +-200
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Well it was basically a pipe with the throttle plate in it, and a wick =
hanging out of the float bowl... and they used to work fine... (1920's)

:) Mark


----------
From:  =
RABBITT_Andrew@mv8.orbeng.com.au[SMTP:RABBITT_Andrew@mv8.orbeng.com.au]
Sent:  Thursday, September 05, 1996 10:57 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  re: Ancient History

>In that case, how did the early wick carbs work?

Never seen one!  I would guess that since they're not around now, they=20
didn't (work, that is!)











From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 10:47:27 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'Fredrik Jeppsson'"
	 <fredrik.jeppsson@mbox300.swipnet.se>
Subject: RE: Multispark ignition "computers"
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 12:28:13 +-200
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Speak to me later... Ive got some friends into 3.5s I can chat to... who race on the strip, and go offroading!

Mark

----------
From:  Fredrik Jeppsson[SMTP:fredrik.jeppsson@mbox300.swipnet.se]
Sent:  Thursday, September 05, 1996 11:29 PM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Multispark ignition "computers"

Hello from Sweden,

I am considering upgrading the stock Lucas/Bosch ignitiion in my 1988 EFI
Range Rover (3.5 liter ex buick V8). I would really appreciate some opinions
and words of experience on the performance / smoothness improvements after
adding one of those boxes between the trigger device and the ignition
amplifier. I am also interested in the effect of performance coils marketed
by the same companies (Jacobs, MSD and others).

 Fredrik Jeppsson
                                   
* FAE, Embedded development tools     *
* Nohau Elektronik AB, Malmoe, Sweden *
*                                     *
* 1988 Range Rover EFI                *
* 1990 Citroen XM V6                  *





From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 12:22:47 1996
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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 07:12:17 -0500
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To: diy_efi
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Knock sensor spectrum?
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>At 03:16 PM 9/5/96 -0500, you wrote:
>>>How about posting it to John's FTP site?
>>
>>Be glad to .... what's it??
>>
>
>The site address (at last recollection)
>
>ftp://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>
>Place the files in the 'Incomming' directory
>
>Sandy
>

Okay, did it !!  Don't know if I did it right -- was I supposed to have
left a note or something about what I transferred to 'incoming' ?

I transferred two files, for all what's interested:  (Youse can log
onto the above ftp site and xfr stuff out of the incoming directory).

        spra039.pdf     the data on the k-knock sensor using a TMS320 DSP.

        caldemo.zip     Mike Wesley's demo program of his 'calibrator'
                        for the Ford EEC-IV.

Tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 12:29:20 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'DIY EFI'" <diy_efi>, "'Mark Pitts'"
	 <saxon@zymurgy.org>,
        "'SRavet@bangate.compaq.com'"
	 <SRavet@bangate.compaq.com>
Subject: RE: Re: hi compressions: wasDIY_EFI Digest V1 #258
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 14:21:45 +-200
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Oops diagram didn't work... if anybody wants to see my idea... ill see =
if I can attach it to a mail again!

Mark


----------
From:  Mark Pitts[SMTP:saxon@zymurgy.org]
Sent:  Friday, September 06, 1996 1:52 PM
To:  'DIY EFI'; 'SRavet@bangate.compaq.com'
Subject:  RE: Re: hi compressions: wasDIY_EFI Digest V1 #258

You are better off with oval pistons, seeing as pistons cant turn, and =
makes the head a much better shape for fitting multi valves into , or =
just 2 big valves, but remember guys.... If you want revs as well =
(which, I don't think many of you Americans do... (cubes don't make =
revs)), you need small low mass valves so that they can close in time!

Here is a silly twin spark idea:
=20
If you get my drift (or for that matter....... My email works :))

Mark

----------
From:  SRavet@bangate.compaq.com[SMTP:SRavet@bangate.compaq.com]
Sent:  Friday, September 06, 1996 1:17 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  re: Re: hi compressions: wasDIY_EFI Digest V1 #258

Daniel Ridge <newt@cesdis1.gsfc.nasa.gov> Wrote:
| Todd's right about chamber shape and flame proopgation. Multivalves =
are a
| hack around the hard limits that geometry places on things -- we're
| constrained to have circular valves, it's tough to use real estate =
well
| when you are nesting circles(valves) in circles(cylinder(head)s). The
| multivalve people didn't want multivales -- they really wanted=20
rectangular
| valves :).

This might be a dumb question, but why not non-circular valves?  I guess =

they wouldn't be able to spin.  Is that a problem?  I can see corners =
being=20
bad, but what about a nice oval shape?

--steve

Steve Ravet
sravet@bangate.compaq.com
Baby you're a genius when it comes to cooking up some chili sauce...



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 12:56:24 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: re: Electronic Ignition
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>"Tony Bryant" <bryantt@psc.fp.co.nz> Wrote:
>| 
>| Does the ignition condensor/capactitor serve any function
>| other than to reduce arcing across points? Do I need one
>| if I switch using a transistor? (with 400V zener clamp)
>| 
>| Facts, not theories, please..

        [ snip ]

>Are you talking about electronic ignition or point ignition?  I've never 
>actually worked on a point ignition (not that old), but I'm pretty sure the 
>condensor stores a charge, which is discharged thru the coil to make a 
>spark.  That is CD (capacitive discharge) ignition.  Electronic ignitions 
>usually charge the coil primary during the dwell period, interrupting the 
>charge causes the field to collapse and generate a spark, no capacitor 
>needed.  HEI ignitions (from GM) are electronic, but have a condensor.  The 
>only purpose of the condensor is noise suppression for the radio, however.  
>The car will run fine without it.
>

A coil (inductor) stores magnetic energy.  When a current is passed
through it (maybe 4 amps for an auto coil) and then the exciting
voltage is removed, the collapsing magnetic field effectively tries
to keep the current at 4 amps -- impossible with no load -- so, the
voltage reverses and goes to a very high value.  That's not theory,
it's fact.

So, when points close, current begins to flow while magnetic field
expands (this is why 'dwell' is important -- need time for the field
to expand sufficiently).  When field reaches its max, the current is
also at its max.  This is all done at the applied 12 volts (approx).
The coil is an autotransformer (meaning the secondary and primary are
the same winding).  When the points open, the coil responds with a
nasty reverse voltage (maybe 300 volts on ignition coil), which is
stepped up by secondary to approx 100 times that amount -- or until
something arcs over (i.e. the plug).

Now, it's the nasty 300 volts and attempted 4 amperes that is generated
when the points open that generate a nice arc across them as they
are opening, effectively doing an arc weld job on them.  The capacitor's
job is to absorb that transient voltage / current spike for a brief time,
effectively bypassing it around your points and protecting them.

Transistor and CD systems only use the points for switching an electronic
circuit.  There is no 'real' inductance attached to the points any-
more -- therefore no real need for a cap.  In fact, the cap will
slow down the rise/fall of the signal, so it really should NOT be there.

Tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 13:16:28 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Ancient History
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Reply-To: diy_efi

>At 02:44 PM 9/3/96 -0500, you wrote:
>>I think 12 mpg from a 455 is fantastic.  Can't see how you get this
>>good -- FI or carbed.  What's your rear end ratio?
>>
>>tom
>
>OK, I new I'd get some mail when I said that, so for the curious, my car is a:
>
>'78 Trans Am
>1970 455 2bolt main from a Bonneville
>stored heads from that motor (10.25:1 cr too high)
>
        [ snip ]

I haven't dug up my stuff about VE and CFM and displacement, but seems to
me that an xxx CID engine is a pump that always pumps xxx CI of air every
two revolutions (assuming a 4-stroke).  All that changes is the density
(i.e. throttle closed = lower density A/F charge).  And I thought that
running R-E-A-L lean meant burning things up (I KNOW it does!).  So, it
takes a certain amount of fuel to just coast, much less make any power.

Like I said, I haven't dug up the stuff, but I remember trying to mathematically
anticipate 'good' mileage for my 351-W with a 3.50:1 ratio diff and was able
to think 14 to 16 would be a reasonable goal with higher values theoretically
feasible.

So, how does one take a 400+ CID engine and get that kind of mileage
unless he's running a 1.7:1 rear end (i.e. L-O-W r's) -- even if he had
100% VE ?

Tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 14:13:04 1996
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Date: Fri, 06 Sep 1996 10:02:39 -0500
From: Fred Francis <Fred_Francis@mail.dnr.state.ga.us>
To: diy_efi
Subject:  Sequential VS Batch fire systems
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RABBITT Wrote: 
<small snip> ....
All the applications that Robert J. Harris quoted in his original post  were
high-speed, high power applications, and sequential fuelling is  not going to
give you anything here.  What sequential injection does give is better low
speed, part load combustion stability leading to better real-world driveability.

Would anyone like to comment on batch fire vs sequential injection systems? 
What are the real world advantages to each under specific circumstances?  GM
went to sequential systems recently on the new camaros and corvettes, WHY?  Is
anything really gained with a sequential system in terms of performance,
efficiency or driveablility?

~~fred



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 14:34:31 1996
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O.K., My daily driver (w/ 160k miles) is starting to knock unless I use
premium.  I think I'll put in a water injection system, but have a few
questions.  Can you dump in too much water?  I plan on a winshield washer
pump, and to have it vaccum operated.  I will monitor the map signal and
start pumping water when the engine gets below a certian vaccum.  What
I could do with another op-amp and a 555 is have the water pump come in
at 50% duty cycle at one vaccum, and full on when it drops below another
vaccum.  I don't think I'll get carried away with using a pic chip,
because I really don't know the relationship between engine load and
knock.
  Would it be better to have the water controlled off throttle position?
Thanks for your time,
-Steven Ciciora

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 16:11:51 1996
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Date: Fri, 06 Sep 1996 09:05:39 +0000
From: Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>
Organization: Protomotive Engineering
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Ancient History
References: <9609061306.AA29750@hagar.ph.utexas.edu>
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> 
> I haven't dug up my stuff about VE and CFM and displacement, but seems to
> me that an xxx CID engine is a pump that always pumps xxx CI of air every
> two revolutions (assuming a 4-stroke).  All that changes is the density
> (i.e. throttle closed = lower density A/F charge).  And I thought that
> running R-E-A-L lean meant burning things up (I KNOW it does!).  So, it
> takes a certain amount of fuel to just coast, much less make any power.
> 
> Like I said, I haven't dug up the stuff, but I remember trying to mathematically
> anticipate 'good' mileage for my 351-W with a 3.50:1 ratio diff and was able
> to think 14 to 16 would be a reasonable goal with higher values theoretically
> feasible.
> 
> So, how does one take a 400+ CID engine and get that kind of mileage
> unless he's running a 1.7:1 rear end (i.e. L-O-W r's) -- even if he had
> 100% VE ?
> 
> Tom

Tom,
	who cares about CFM, it varies too much too worry about.  As well as
your air fuel ratio is determined by mass not CFM.
	You only run 100%VE at close to or wide open throttle, unless you're
turbo'd.  At very light throttle conditions, your VE is determined by
pressure AND rpm's.  Sure, your VE still follows your torque curve, but
your mass flow into the engine is very minimal at high vacuum
situations.
	For example, running down the road at 100%VE, or WOT, you might be
running 8 to 10 ms injector timing, where as at light throttle
conditions, you might see 1.5 to 2 ms.  Same RPM, different pressure,
thus less fuel.
	Sure it's the same CFM inside the manifold, but prior to the throttle
body (at atmospheric pressure) the CFM is much lower.

Todd Knighton
Protomotive Engineering

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 16:27:40 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Sequential VS Batch fire systems
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On Fri, 6 Sep 1996, Fred Francis wrote:

> Would anyone like to comment on batch fire vs sequential injection
systems?  > What are the real world advantages to each under specific
circumstances?  GM > went to sequential systems recently on the new
camaros and corvettes, WHY?  Is > anything really gained with a sequential
system in terms of performance, > efficiency or driveablility?
> 

Off the cuff, I'd say that batch fire vs sequential fire might not make
much difference at very high revs, since the fuel injected to the closed
intake ports woudl only sit there for a short time, while at low revs the
sitting time is longer, which would reduce drivability. For a 4 cylinder
engine at 6,000rpm, 180deg of crankshaft rotation takes 5msec.  If the
fuel is injected at the begining of the exhaust stroke (intake closed,
batch injection of 2 at a time, this is the "odd" injector), the fuel sits
there for 5msec before the intake opens. At 1,000rpm the fuel will sit
there 30msec. 

Assuming the evaporation and droplet enlargement follow an exponetial
function of the general form y(t) = y(0)*e^at, and that the amount of fuel
injected at the initial time y(0) is the same for each case (a gross
simplification), and normalizing by letting a = 1, gives a simple
expontial function. The value of e^0.005 = 1.005012520859 and e^0.030 =
1.030454533954. Which I calculate as only a 2.5% increase. Unless y(0) is 
very different for each case, then there isn't much difference between 
the two. Of course, this could be completely wrong..... 


****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 16:32:38 1996
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From: Todd King <Todd_King@ccm.co.intel.com>
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  <<<   From: Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>
  Date: Thu, 05 Sep 1996 13:25:09 +0000
  Subject: Re: hi compressions: wasDIY_EFI Digest V1 #258
  John Faubion wrote:
  > Actually the big reason for multivalve chambers is more area is exposed
  > around the valve to flow fuel. Two small valves have much more flow
  > capacity than 1 large valve but is more expensive that manufacture.
  That's also what Yamaha though, they went to 5 valves to get even more
  flow.  They did pick up flow, but on the F1 motors the 4 valve engines
  made more power still.
  Point is.  It's not all flow, but combustion chamber shape and flame
  propogation as well.   >>>
  
  Ahh, Yamaha's 5 valve with the lens-shaped comb. chamber.  The 3 smaller
  valves maximize the use of the available chamber area plus expose much 
  more total opening (perimeter) quicker than two (or one) larger valves,
  kind of like getting a free increase in cam ramp steepness. As Todd said, 
  people were puzzled that the engine was down on power compared to the 4 
  valve; one symptom I heard about was that it liked a surprising amount 
  of ignition advance, indicating a slow burn, although the chamber was
  "engineered" for a fast burn. A benefit of the fast burn chambers is the
  ability to increase compression ratio ("outrun the fuse", as someone had
  recently posted) so the street version was set up for around 11:1 CR. I
  wonder if Yamaha had enough of a squish area in their chamber? All that
  valve stuffing may have cut down on the available squish area... Wish
  I had a job like that, designing chambers, playin' on the dyno, etc. 
  Gee Todd K., need any help over there? :-)
  
  Todd  Todd_King@ccm.co.intel.com
  

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 18:01:58 1996
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   [ snip ]

>> So, how does one take a 400+ CID engine and get that kind of mileage
>> unless he's running a 1.7:1 rear end (i.e. L-O-W r's) -- even if he had
>> 100% VE ?
>> 
>> Tom
>
>Tom,
>	who cares about CFM, it varies too much too worry about.  As well as
>your air fuel ratio is determined by mass not CFM.
>	You only run 100%VE at close to or wide open throttle, unless you're
>turbo'd.  At very light throttle conditions, your VE is determined by
>pressure AND rpm's.  Sure, your VE still follows your torque curve, but
>your mass flow into the engine is very minimal at high vacuum
>situations.
>	For example, running down the road at 100%VE, or WOT, you might be
>running 8 to 10 ms injector timing, where as at light throttle
>conditions, you might see 1.5 to 2 ms.  Same RPM, different pressure,
>thus less fuel.
>	Sure it's the same CFM inside the manifold, but prior to the throttle
>body (at atmospheric pressure) the CFM is much lower.
>
>Todd Knighton
>Protomotive Engineering
>

So, you're telling me these mpg figures don't bother you?

Tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 18:49:06 1996
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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 14:41:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: John Napoli <jgn@li.net>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Water Injection
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Why not just one decarbonizing treatment to eliminate the accumulated goo?

Run the engine at a fast idle and spritz in water from a spray bottle.
Steam cleans it all right out.

GM supposedly sells some snake oil that does the same thing.  I seem to
recall that good old ATF works the best of all.

Then you won't need water injection.

If you really want to go ahead with your design, I think you'll need to
add a solenoid valve between the manifold and the pump to avoid high
vacuum sucking the water right past.

John

On Fri, 6 Sep 1996, Steve Ciciora wrote:

> 
> O.K., My daily driver (w/ 160k miles) is starting to knock unless I use
> premium.  I think I'll put in a water injection system, but have a few
> questions.  Can you dump in too much water?  I plan on a winshield washer
> pump, and to have it vaccum operated.  I will monitor the map signal and
> start pumping water when the engine gets below a certian vaccum.  What
> I could do with another op-amp and a 555 is have the water pump come in
> at 50% duty cycle at one vaccum, and full on when it drops below another
> vaccum.  I don't think I'll get carried away with using a pic chip,
> because I really don't know the relationship between engine load and
> knock.
>   Would it be better to have the water controlled off throttle position?
> Thanks for your time,
> -Steven Ciciora
> 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 19:45:10 1996
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>
>From: RABBITT_Andrew@mv8.orbeng.com.au
>Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 11:30:32 est
>Subject: re: Manifold/throttle bodys-ED:-)
>
>>In a message dated 96-09-04 16:06:27 EDT, wright@uspto.gov (Dirk 
>>Wright)
>>writes:
>>
>>>I remember my old alfa with the spica mechanical injection had one 
>>>throttle per cylinder. pretty cool.
>>
>>So does the Lotus Turbo Esprit, but with elctronic fuel injection....
>
>So do all EFI Alfa 33/145/146 boxer engines.
>
>Does anyone know what would happen if you joined all the chokes 
>together on the down-stream side of each throttle, kind of like 
>forming a mini-plenum for improving balance robustness at low throttle 
>openings, but still allowing the correct runner design and plenum 
>volume up-stream of the blades for WOT performance?
>
>Anyone tried this?  Any theories?

Yeah! I got a theory or two! Balance robustness should be tuneable without
mini-plenums. The most I can see is a dinky vacuum line between ports to 
establish a average vacuum reference for the ecu.

   Any real tuner :-) would be more than happy to get out the mercury 
tubes to balance out their turbocharged, intercooled, nitrous
injected, port throttled efi v-8 :->

Anybody know where I can get some rubber to put around the asphalt roller
I'm going to need for rear tire? 
   



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 20:32:10 1996
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From: "Mike Fahrion" <mfahrion@bb-elec.com>
Organization: B&B Electronics Mfg. Co.
To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 15:20:04 +0000
Subject: troubleshooting a taurus
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Sorry if this is a bit off subject.

A coworker has paid an insane sum to a dealer to fix a problem which 
hasn't gone away - and I believe that it should be a simple EFI 
problem.

The taurus has a very hard time starting after sitting overnite or 
over perhaps 8-10 hours.  Takes a large amount of cranking with no 
firing, then stumbles slowly to life.  Ambient temperature doesn't 
seem to have any effect.  Computer reveals no fault codes, pump and 
filter are good.

Isn't there a fuel accumulator which should maintain fuel pressure 
when sitting?  If this was faulty would it allow pressure to drop - 
forcing the pump to charge the system again before it could start?

Any insight would be appreciated

TIA
-mike
mfahrion@bb-elec.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 21:31:08 1996
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From: "John Faubion" <jfaubion@beaches.net>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: hi compressions: wasDIY_EFI Digest V1 #258
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 15:58:31 -0500
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> John Faubion wrote:
> > 
> > Actually the big reason for multivalve chambers is more area is exposed
> > around the valve to flow fuel. Two small valves have much more flow
> > capacity than 1 large valve but is more expensive that manufacture.
> 
> That's also what Yamaha though, they went to 5 valves to get even more
> flow.  They did pick up flow, but on the F1 motors the 4 valve engines
> made more power still.  
> Point is.  It's not all flow, but combustion chamber shape and flame
> propogation as well.

I agree in as much as with everything there is a break even point.
Considering how crowded a four valve chamber is and how the two open valves
affect each others flow, I can only imagine the problems with three open
valves!

John Faubion
jfaubion@beaches.net

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 21:43:02 1996
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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 14:31:38 -0700
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From: rickydik@ix.netcom.com (RD Rick)
Subject: Re: troubleshooting a taurus
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mike wrote: 

>...
>The taurus has a very hard time starting after sitting overnite or 
>over perhaps 8-10 hours.  Takes a large amount of cranking with no 
>firing, then stumbles slowly to life.  Ambient temperature doesn't 
>seem to have any effect.  Computer reveals no fault codes, pump and 
>filter are good.
>
>Isn't there a fuel accumulator which should maintain fuel pressure 
>when sitting?  If this was faulty would it allow pressure to drop - 
>forcing the pump to charge the system again before it could start?

No accumulator, it needs to be a leak-free system, for obvious reasons.
It does sound like fuel pressure has gone away.  Assuming this is a V6, 
(you don't say, and you don't even say what year) there is a Shrader 
valve near the front where you can measure fuel pressure.  It should be 
35 psi at idle, and about 25-30 after sitting.

Turning on the ign should cause fuel pump to run a couple of seconds, 
then stop.  Try switching on and off once or twice before starting to 
see if that helps.

EFI in my '86 Sable V6 has been almost flawless in 115K miles.  Had to 
correct a weak idle recently by de-coking the air bypass.

RD

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 21:48:08 1996
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From: "George Najarian" <najay@deltanet.com>
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Fuel pressure bleeds down overnight, but should build to normal in ~2
seconds or less.

On Fri, 6 Sep 1996 15:20:04 +0000, Mike Fahrion wrote:

>Sorry if this is a bit off subject.
>
>A coworker has paid an insane sum to a dealer to fix a problem which 
>hasn't gone away - and I believe that it should be a simple EFI 
>problem.
>
>The taurus has a very hard time starting after sitting overnite or 
>over perhaps 8-10 hours.  Takes a large amount of cranking with no 
>firing, then stumbles slowly to life.  Ambient temperature doesn't 
>seem to have any effect.  Computer reveals no fault codes, pump and 
>filter are good.
>
>Isn't there a fuel accumulator which should maintain fuel pressure 
>when sitting?  If this was faulty would it allow pressure to drop - 
>forcing the pump to charge the system again before it could start?
>
>Any insight would be appreciated
>
>TIA
>-mike
>mfahrion@bb-elec.com
>

George Najarian	    | '95 Ford Mustang GTS E/SP (14.21/100.81)
najay@deltanet.com  | '86 Ford Mustang GT Convertible (15.0/93)
http://users.deltanet.com/~najay/
Team.Net        Team OS/2




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To: diy_efi
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Intel Engine Control Overview
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Intel has some interesting data on EFI on its web site.  The following
was taken from: http://www.intel.com/pressroom/archive/releases/engback.htm

It's a lot of stuff -- I hope it doesn't cause anyone any problems.

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Engine Control Overview=20

Press Backgrounder December 1995=20

B.C.--Before Microcontrollers

It was probably inevitable, the application of computer technology to
automobiles, and skyrocketing fuel prices due to the energy crisis certainly
accelerated the process. But early engine controls were far from the
sophisticated digital devices we use to day.=20

Electronic engine control first came to light in 1978 in what was called a
"closed loop" carburetor. It was a response to the oil crisis and promised
marginally better fuel economy. At the same time, national concern over
airborne pollutants propelled inv estigation into the origins of automotive
exhaust components, how pollutants were formed, and how they could be=
 abated.=20

Why electronic control?

Gasoline-powered Otto cycle engines are simple. Combine measured amounts of
air and fuel in a confined space and ignite them. The pressure of expanding
gasses forces a piston to move. This motion is translated into rotational
movement. Like all simple things, there's more than meets the eye.=20

In the 70's, engines relied on mechanically generated signals to ignite the
fuel/air mixture. Electrical energy from a battery was stepped up from 12
volts to many thousand volts by a coil. A mechanical "distributor" selected
the appropriate spark plug and sent a signal along a wire. That selection
"window" was wide, the ignition signal (spark) could be initiated any time
within many
degrees of rotation as a "rotor" contacted mechanical switch points inside
the distributor.=20

Science knew that the outcome of combustion--both power and pollutants--was
greatly affected by how precisely the fuel/air mixture approached
theoretical perfection and when the ignition event took place. To get clean
air, fuel had to be precisely mixed i n a "stoichiometric" 14.7:1 ratio. The
mixture had to be ignited at a precise instant that varied with load, speed,=
 and
other factors. Mechanical devices could not achieve the required precision
and automakers soon approached Intel, a manufacturer of mic rocomputers and
microcontrollers. (A microcomputer chip with a single preprogrammed task is
referred to as a microcontroller.)=20

Early discussions centered on sensor data~ what information an engine
microcontroller would require. Critical needs included the rotational
position of both crankshaft and camshaft, and air flow. Throttle position
and rate of throttle position change (the transmission wants to know when
you need to accelerate quickly) were needed, too.=20

Rotation sensors i.e, crankshaft, camshaft, and ABS sensors at the wheels
utilize a wide variety of technologies. Optical sensors may use infrared
Light Emitting Diodes to peer through a slotted wheel. Other sensor designs
interpret the rise and fall of magnetic energy as a metallic part approaches
and departs. Interestingly, many very precise sensors receive only 4 signals
per 360~ of rotation--exact position is calculated mathematically,
predicting not only position, but whether the engine is accelerat ing or
decelerating. This accuracy allows the fuel/air mixture to be ignited at a
precisely selected moment appropriate for engine power and emissions=
 control.=20

Other data signals are critical to powertrain control. The microcontroller
has to know temperatures in the engine's water cooling system along with oil
temperature and transmission temperature. Fuel injection requires knowing
atmospheric density and how quickly air is being drawn into the intake
manifold. Air temperature affects air density. Hydraulic pressure
information is sent to
the microcontroller by automatic transmissions, as are battery voltage, road
speed, and oil pressure.=20

Every signal adds calculation complexity as it increases the precision of
control.=20

Within the last five years engine microcontrollers have also been required
to determine shift points as the industry installed electronically
controlled (vs. hydraulic/mechanical) automatic transmissions. The precise
management provided by digital control means every automatic transmission
will soon be under numeric control.=20

As engine control advances, so does data complexity. Oxygen sensors enabled
controllers to accurately mix air and fuel based on combustion results. Now,
a second oxygen sensor placed down stream from the catalytic converter
infers the state of the catalyt ic converter (e.g. converters work best when
hot; they suffer contaminant damage, even aging.)=20

At one time it was thought that some kind of sensor would be added to each
cylinder to monitor every combustion event. This would have added enormous
cost and complexity to engines. Instead, by increasing the power of
software--placing added burdens on th e engine computer/controller--events
can be inferred or predicted. This increase in computational power places
great demands on microcontroller performance.=20

Computer chip families or "architectures" may be understood by an analogy to
a subdivision. Every house may look different, yet it is built from common
components. And the core structure--placement of furnace, water and
sewer--may be identical in every bu ilding. Computer chips are built the
same way with a core framework embellished by appropriate structural
add-ons.  Consideration is given to growth (both in raw processing power and
memory) and additional input (more sensor data links.) So a microcontroll er
can add more memory or calculation power up to its architecture's limit,
just as a growing family can add
rooms or central air conditioning.=20

Into the 90s. Power and Memory.

If controlling what happens in an engine and automatic transmission were not
sufficient challenges, a greater one has emerged from legislation.
Specifically, On Board Diagnostics II (second generation) laws. These
require monitoring automotive systems th at affect emissions. Not only does
your cars' engine control unit have to "watch" what goes on and record
troubles for
service technicians as they happen, OBD II rules require the prediction of
deterioration of the following: catalytic converter, fuel
de livery and evaporative emissions systems, crankshaft and camshaft
position sensors, oxygen sensors, manifold air
temperature sensor, ignition system and others.=20

Let's look at the most difficult problem, ignition misfire.=20

A four-cylinder engine cruising on the freeway at 65 mph revolves at
approximately 3,200 revolutions per minute or 6400 spark events per minute.
Because of moisture, voltage drop, or a variety of other factors, some
misfire is inevitable. The engine micro controller monitors combustion and
should, for instance, 6 of 20 sparks in a row fail in any one cylinder, the
engine
controller must notify the driver "SERVICE ENGINE SOON." But what if you
splashed through a deep puddle and a damp wire caused a temporar y misfire?=
=20

Sophisticated algorithms examine error data and query whether the event is
recurring. If it was an isolated incident, as in our damp spark plug wire
example above, the check engine light is extinguished.=20

This benefits the consumer. When a car arrives for service, modern
computer-powered diagnostic equipment can directly interrogate the on-board
microcontroller and elicit a specific response. This could enable the
mechanic to go directly to, for instance, spark plug number 4 and begin=
 repair.=20

This sophisticated diagnostic power requires roughly the same computational
capability as the engine controller itself.=20

Because of increasing complexity, responsibilities, and the sheer number of
calculations, engine microcontrollers need increased power to avoid being
overwhelmed. Just as desktop computers evolved from early 8088 PC Jr.
machines into today's Pentium=AE processor powered models, so have engine
microcontrollers changed.=20

The latest generation of microcontrollers, like Intel's 83C196EA, exemplify
this vastly improved processing power and communications ability.=20

Up to Date Data Collection

Microcontrollers utilize digital signals. Sensor data (voltage, temperature,
linear and rotational velocities, etc.) must be converted from continuous or
analog information into the digital form required by microcontrollers. This
Analog-to-Digital convers ion is typically performed within the
microcontroller.=20

Another critical need is the ability to capture and compare events as they
happen. And high-speed input and output channels transport data to the
microcontroller for action. The microprocessor core itself needs raw power
and speed as it executes the complex instruction codes called algorithms.=20

Once sensors, algorithms and the microprocessor core have done their work,
control signals are sent out to tell the engine what to do. High-speed
channels specify when and how long to fire spark plugs, when and how long to
send fuel through the injectors , or when to shift to a different gear. And
there is a need to query sensors for updated data in return.=20

Intel's new 83C196EA microcontroller harmonizes with modern engine control
needs. It has 16 Analog-to-Digital converter channels built in. Its new
higher speed core zips along twice as fast--32 MHz vs. 16 MHz--as its
predecessor. This kind of speed is optimum for power train control,
particularly its high-speed I/O for controlling electronic transmissions.
The family features 17 event capture-and-compare channels and eight
capture-only channels for a total of 25 high-speed Input/Output channels.=20

Intel's history in engine control electronics is lengthy, from the first
1983 Ford EEC-IV based on the 8061 microcontroller to today's modern 8065
chip set, also known as the EEC-V. Today, Ford is still using the 8065 in
many of their new vehicles produced through the start of the next decade.
The 16-bit architectures, such as the 8065 and MCS=AE 96 controllers, have
been widely accepted in Europe and the U.S in ABS, engine control, and
networking applications. From the introduction of the 8061, Intel has
continued to provide more innovative and highly integrated microcontrollers
in order to help their customers with evolving powertrain applications.
Specifically, the 83C196EA doubles the performance of our existing
microcontrollers while adding more functionality. The 83C196EA will provide
designers with lower development costs and time-to-market.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 22:08:30 1996
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From: Ron Madurski <rmadursk@galaxy.galstar.com>
Message-Id: <199609062156.QAA17840@galaxy.galstar.com>
Subject: Re: troubleshooting a taurus
To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 16:56:09 -0500 (CDT)
In-Reply-To: <199609062015.PAA04891@rs232.bb-elec.com> from "Mike Fahrion" at Sep 6, 96 03:20:04 pm
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:
:
:Sorry if this is a bit off subject.
:
:A coworker has paid an insane sum to a dealer to fix a problem which 
:hasn't gone away - and I believe that it should be a simple EFI 
:problem.
:
:The taurus has a very hard time starting after sitting overnite or 
:over perhaps 8-10 hours.  Takes a large amount of cranking with no 
:firing, then stumbles slowly to life.  Ambient temperature doesn't 
:seem to have any effect.  Computer reveals no fault codes, pump and 
:filter are good.
:
:Isn't there a fuel accumulator which should maintain fuel pressure 
:when sitting?  If this was faulty would it allow pressure to drop - 
:forcing the pump to charge the system again before it could start?

Yup and it's easy to check.  Put a pressure gauge on the fueln line in
and see if it drops while setting for awhile.

:
:Any insight would be appreciated
:
:TIA
:-mike
:mfahrion@bb-elec.com
:


-- 
Ron Madurski      
rmadursk@galaxy.galstar.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 22:29:10 1996
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Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 17:14:04 -0500
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To: diy_efi
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Knock sensor spectrum?
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>Tom,
>
>I'd appreciate a copy of the application note spra039.pdf if possible.
>

I've gotten a lot of requests for this -- it's taking up a lot
of my mail handler's time.  If you can, it can be obtained from:

Sources:

http://www.ti.com/sc/docs/psheets/appnote.htm

You have to go through a couple of harmless gyrations to get a
'loser' name and password before it can be downloaded.

You can ftp it from:

ftp://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

I put it in the 'incoming' directory, and it's not protected, so can
be downloaded from there ... I suppose it will be put somewhere else
(maybe 'pub' ??) in a little while.

While you're there, check out the 'caldemo.zip' file which runs
on 'real' computers (PC-comp / DOS) and is an example of an EEC-IV
calibrator.

Tom



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 22:51:01 1996
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From: "John Faubion" <jfaubion@beaches.net>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Ancient History
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 1996 17:18:24 -0500
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> So, you're telling me these mpg figures don't bother you?
> 
> Tom
> 

Well Tom actually no they don't. You see I have a 78 El Camino with a 427
fat block. I built it quite mild to begin with and ran a Turbo 400 auto
behind it with a 2.73 rear axle. With this combination I had an average of
12-14 mpg in town and 21+ on the highway. With a switch to 3.55:1 rear
ratio, my in town mileage stepped up and my highway mileage dropped to
15-16 mpg. Next step is a 700-R4 so that I can get my highway mileage back.
This is also using a QuadraJet 4bbl. With my EFI project I hope to improve
both sets of mileage figures.

John Faubion
jfaubion@beaches.net

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep  6 23:30:15 1996
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"Mike Fahrion" <mfahrion@bb-elec.com> Wrote:
| 
| Sorry if this is a bit off subject.
| 
| A coworker has paid an insane sum to a dealer to fix a problem which 
| hasn't gone away - and I believe that it should be a simple EFI 
| problem.
| 
| The taurus has a very hard time starting after sitting overnite or 
| over perhaps 8-10 hours.  Takes a large amount of cranking with no 
| firing, then stumbles slowly to life.  Ambient temperature doesn't 
| seem to have any effect.  Computer reveals no fault codes, pump and 
| filter are good.
| 
| Isn't there a fuel accumulator which should maintain fuel pressure 
| when sitting?  If this was faulty would it allow pressure to drop - 
| forcing the pump to charge the system again before it could start?
| 
| Any insight would be appreciated

Maybe a leaky injector causing the pressure to bleed off, but also flooding 
the engine?  I wouldn't think it would take long for the pump to build up 
pressure, but if the engine is flooded it would take a few cranks to get 
the gas out.  Sometimes the ECM recognizes a "clear flood" condition while 
cranking and the pedal is WOT.  It doesn't inject any fuel, or very little, 
to allow the flood to clear.  It should be simple enough to put a fuel 
pressure gauge on the fuel rail and see if it maintains pressure.

--steve

| 
| TIA
| -mike
| mfahrion@bb-elec.com
| 


Steve Ravet
sravet@bangate.compaq.com
Baby you're a genius when it comes to cooking up some chili sauce...

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep  7 01:08:54 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: Arnaldo Echevarria <aec@ao.net>
Subject: Re: Ancient History
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>>> So, how does one take a 400+ CID engine and get that kind of mileage
>>> unless he's running a 1.7:1 rear end (i.e. L-O-W r's) -- even if he had
>>> 100% VE ?

3.08:1 gears, actually

>
>So, you're telling me these mpg figures don't bother you?
>
>Tom

Do these numbers really bother anyone?  12mpg highway for a 455? I mean,
I've read about 46-48mpg from a turbo v-6; 28-30mpg from 5.7L z/28's,
and 31mpg from 5.0L mustangs.  While I don't believe any of them; i'd say
12mpg from a 455 is much more believable because I've been driving the car
eight months since I built the engine and keep very accurate track of the 
gas mileage.  I calibrate my tach every month - if I spin that engine over
5300rpm it's over - I use a friend's digital speedometer to do so.  I know
what the correction factor on the speedometer is, It's so precise I can tell
tire wear (because the speedometer constant changes just a bit).  Just saying
so doesn't make it so, I realize that; but believe me, I'm not one of those
"oh yeah - 30mpg at least from my v-8".  I have driven in far too many 30mpg
5.0L mustangs (only to get 18-20) and 27mpg 5.7L '95 Z/28s (only to get 22.5)
Maybe those cars get that kind of mileage at 60mph going down a hill with a 
tailwind, a real skinny driver and at a high altitude (higher altitudes get
better gas mileage, especially with efi).
When I say highway, I mean just that: jump on the freeway and drive.  That also
means slowing down a little, speeding up, passing the old people, showing a
Porshe
a thing or two :), and finding a place on I75 or I95 to get gas (you know how 
you get off a freeway only to find out the gas station you're stopping for
is out
of business and then you realize why the billboard had such a cheap price)

AND NOW, A QUESTION, a question:
how much better is using some sort of mechanical injection that creates an
excellent a/f mixture (dilutes it greatly) over using a conventinal efi
injector on the manifold pointing at a valve?  Is it really that important
that the fuel is injected as close to the valve as possible? At high RPMs it
doesn't matter anyway 'cause the fuel will just sit on the valve anyway.  

What I'm getting at is which plays a greater role at low RPMs: a/f mixture,
temp of mixture, or timing of injection?

What I'm trying to decide whether I should conceive some sort of mechanical fuel
injection system (timed or untimed) or should I just drill 8 injector holes in
my intake manifold, buy 8 injectors (not cheap), and go from there?

Arnaldo Echevarria
aec@ao.net



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep  7 05:28:38 1996
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From: MaxBoost@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 7 Sep 1996 01:14:37 -0400
Message-ID: <960907011436_303303473@emout19.mail.aol.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Fuel on the intake valves
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>They mentioned that the injectors have been repositioned and the intake has
>a small section cutout along the top of the port allowing the fuel to squirt
>more directly on or towards the intake valve.

>I thought this was interesting, especially considering we were just talking
>about the Hilburn systems. Coincidence????

>-Tom

FWIW, Nissan has been doing it since 1984 on their V6 engines.  I'm not sure
about some of the other makers though.  Actually, most of the fuel
atomization takes place through evaporation of the fuel on the hot intake
valve (at lower engine speeds).  Various people have tried open valve
injection timing in the past without major success.  I have heard it
described as "Making Oil" due to the large amounts of un evaporated fuel that
gets washed down the bore at lower rpms.  Supposedly the only way to make it
work is to aim the injector to hit the really hot exhaust valve.  Obviously
this requires a specific head and manifold setup to accomplish.

There was a thread about injection timing and batch vs sequential a while ago
on this list that may be archived somewhere.  The jist of it was that at WOT
and high rpm, injector timing had little effect, due to the limited time
available to inject fuel and the ability of the injector to flow fuel.  At
low engine speed and during transients, injector timing has a BIG effect on
response and torque.

On another note, I read somewhere that BMW's F1 engine had 4 injectors per
cylinder and timed the injection to wait until the exhaust valve closed to
start injecting fuel.  This was in the fuel economy runs in '85-'86 to save
blowing fuel through on overlap.

Max.

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 Hello, I am building a rather unusual street rod. The parts are coming
together nicely so far and it looks like EFI is in my future !! I have looked
for the information needed to do the EFI conversion on a 1968 Ford 460 CID
and through this newsgroup I will be closer to getting off the information
highway and onto I-35 in my dream machine. 
  (I'm really excited about this, so please pardon the background
babbling...)
  The car is a 1979 Mazda RX-7 <liter> with a full 2x3 rectangular tube
chassis, it has a Mustang II front suspension with 15" Granada rotors GM
Calipers and the ECI adapters
that make this mix work. The rear end is a narrowed (28" flange to flange)
Ford 9" rear
with 4-link, coil-overs and  2.75 posi gears to bring in streetable RPM from
the C-6 Ford tranny.  I picked up a neat program (striptune) from surfing the
alt.autos.rod-n-custom newsgroup that helped me justify these choices. (It
should run in the low 9's 1/4 mi) 
  The ultimate goal is to have a 1-off streetable big block / small car combo
that I can build myself right here at home. I want EFI and turbos also to
make my hobby car technically balanced and to put some distance between my
car and anything that is considered a "performance" automobile.
  With this out of the way, I am looking for tips on the EEC-IV Ford computer
or anything better suited for large displacement and adaptable for turbo use
later. I am starting from the ground up, and right now only have engine
hardware (early 460 motor and 1988 EFI manifold/injectors). I have some
experience in "C" coding and a good understanding of digital electronics and
am ready to learn the controllers, drivers,  maps and the rest from you
guys...
 Gary Graham    Round Rock, Tx.    

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep  7 06:12:13 1996
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Date: 07 Sep 96 01:57:33 EDT
From: Jim Steck <72614.557@CompuServe.COM>
To: DIY-EFI digest <DIY_EFI>
Subject: water injection
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>O.K., My daily driver (w/ 160k miles) is starting to knock unless I use
>premium.  I think I'll put in a water injection system, but have a few
>questions.  Can you dump in too much water?  I plan on a winshield washer
>pump, and to have it vaccum operated.  I will monitor the map signal and
>start pumping water when the engine gets below a certian vaccum.  What
>I could do with another op-amp and a 555 is have the water pump come in
>at 50% duty cycle at one vaccum, and full on when it drops below another
>vaccum.  I don't think I'll get carried away with using a pic chip,
>because I really don't know the relationship between engine load and
>knock.

A good treatise on water injection can be found in Sir Henry Ricardo's fourth
edition of "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine" pages 165-171.  His
experiments were aimed primarily at increasing horsepower in supercharged
aircraft engines by way of controlling detonation (with water) so that higher
boost pressures could be used.  At high boost, normal fuel mixtures were used,
and an additional amount of water was added . . . up to 60% of the mass of the
fuel.  You shouldn't need nearly that much.

He also suggested that mixing up to 50% methanol with the water helped improved
its volatility.  

Jim Steck


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep  7 14:48:17 1996
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Date: Sat, 07 Sep 1996 09:21:33 -0700
From: Greg Finnican <f0247@vnet.net>
Organization: Atlantic Motorsports
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Subject: Injector Flow Variation
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What an injector's flow rating is and what it actually flows can vary 
quite a bit.  When we ultrasonicly clean them it does not always bring 
them back in line.  How much of this is manufacturing variation?  After 
seeing the variation in injectors I can'nt imagine using an untested set 
in a performance application - certainly not a used set.  I would like to 
hear others experience.  greg@atlantic-motorsports.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep  7 15:03:00 1996
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Date: Sat, 7 Sep 1996 07:52:56 -0700
Message-Id: <199609071452.HAA16922@dfw-ix3.ix.netcom.com>
From: rickydik@ix.netcom.com (RD Rick)
Subject: Re: water injection; and methanol
To: diy_efi
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>...
>He also suggested that mixing up to 50% methanol with the water helped 
>improved its volatility.  
>Jim Steck

Word of warning.  I have read that methanol is very corrosive to metal 
parts, while ethanol is not.  I don't know if ethanol will work in that 
application. 

Ethanol costs more than gasoline, methanol costs much less;  many 
SoCalif gas suppliers/stations have been accused of diluting their gas 
with methanol, causing serious damage to untold numbers of cars.  
Ethanol will counter the corrosive effects of methanol, if added in the 
right proportion.

But now, I have read that the new oxygenated fuel has methanol..
There is an apparent increase in the number of car fires with it; 
probably due to corroded fuel pressure regulators.  It happened to my 
'81 Vanagon last year.  Fuel pressure went over 100psi, and leaks 
sprung up in lots of places.

Post-mortem on the regulator showed it to be badly rusted inside.
The input was also clogged with an unknown substance, like maybe rust 
crud from other parts.

RD

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep  7 18:35:21 1996
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Date: Sat, 07 Sep 1996 11:12:35 +0000
From: Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>
Organization: Protomotive Engineering
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> 
> So, you're telling me these mpg figures don't bother you?
> 
> Tom

Tom,
	Actually, we have a Chevy 3500 w/ a 454 and a 3.53 rear, and the
mileage sucks.  They're running the thing lean enough that it has quite
the misfire at idle.  It's leased and will probably be going back,
otherwise we'd fix it.
	It only gets about 12 miles per gallon highway and about 8 around
town.  I'd almost be better off making 3 or four trips in a honda, and
still save on fuel / tires / maintenance.
	Big motors get bad gas mileage.  Period.   
	There's too much friction involved to do much better.  I'd bet you
could get the motor up to mid 30's in mileage with optimum cam timing,
port shape, combustion chamber shape and the like, but it'd be useless
as a tow vehicle then.  compromises.  Oh well.

Todd Knighton
Protomotive Engineering

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep  7 21:53:35 1996
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From: Darrell Norquay <dnorquay@awinc.com>
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At 08:06 AM 9/6/96 -0500, Tom Cloud wrote:

>I haven't dug up my stuff about VE and CFM and displacement, but seems to
>me that an xxx CID engine is a pump that always pumps xxx CI of air every
>two revolutions (assuming a 4-stroke).  All that changes is the density
>(i.e. throttle closed = lower density A/F charge). 

This would only be true if the engine is a perfect air pump.  Due to a few
major factors and a zillion minor ones, the engine's VE changes quite
radically with RPM, and is in almost all cases <100%.  This means that if
the VE is 80% at a particular RPM, a cylinder is only packing 80% of it's
true volume of air/fuel mixture into it at that speed.  VE is related to,
but not to be confused with overall energy conversion efficiency, which is
much lower.

You can tune the intake runners and exhaust system to give 100% or even
greater than 100% VE's, but only over a very narrow RPM range.  If you tuned
the intake and exhaust paths to give optimum VE (which generally coincides
with the torque peak) at, say, 3000 RPM, and chose an overall gear ratio
that put 70 MPH right at 3000 RPM, in combination with some ignition advance
and fuel leanout, you could get phenomenal (comparatively) cruising fuel
mileage with any engine.  It'd be no fun at all to drive, though, unless it
had a 27 speed transmission... 

OEM's tune the system for a broad, flat VE (torque) curve, to give the
engine driveability, economy, and durability.  Aftermarket parts makers (and
DIY'ers) attempt to increase the peak output at the expense of driveability,
economy, and durability.  It should also be possible to increase the economy
at the expense of power output and driveability.  The area under the VE
curve, though, would stay pretty much the same for a given size NA engine,
no matter which approach you take.     TANSTAAFL.

>And I thought that running R-E-A-L lean meant burning things up (I KNOW it
>does!).  So, it takes a certain amount of fuel to just coast, much less
make >any power.

This is only really true at WOT.  Running lean, while trying to make maximum
power from the engine is a bad idea.  Different story at light loads or
cruise. I have seen industrial methane powered stationary engines running at
AFR's of 28:1, and they last a longggg time.  Once you get the engine
running, you can lean out the mixture until the engine is just making enough
power to balance the power required by the load, (overcoming drag, friction,
etc).  Ask any pilot, he will tell you that as a plane reaches cruise
altitude and speed, you lean it out until the engine is just making enough
power to maintain cruise conditions.  This gives maximum fuel economy.

>So, how does one take a 400+ CID engine and get that kind of mileage
>unless he's running a 1.7:1 rear end (i.e. L-O-W r's) -- even if he had
>100% VE ?

Fuel consumption is pretty much directly proportional to RPM (as is HP) for
a given displacement.  Fuel consumption is also tempered by the shape of the
VE curve.  Maximum efficiency occurs at the VE peak, which coincides with
minimum energy required to produce a given amount of power.  So, you're
right, a low numerical rear end ratio or overdrive does increase mileage,
but lowering RPM would also decrease HP and VE, and thus overall engine
output. If you set it all up jesssstt raaht, so that VE, torque, and HP all
peak at a low enough RPM, which also coincides with your normal cruising
speed, voila`, mega-MPG.  


regards
dn
dnorquay@awinc.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep  7 22:23:04 1996
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Date: Sat, 7 Sep 1996 15:06:19 -0700 (PDT)
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To: diy_efi
From: Darrell Norquay <dnorquay@awinc.com>
Subject: Re: water injection
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At 08:26 AM 9/6/96 -0600, Steve Cicoria wrote:

>>O.K., My daily driver (w/ 160k miles) is starting to knock unless I use
>>premium.  I think I'll put in a water injection system, but have a few
>>questions.  Can you dump in too much water?  I plan on a winshield washer
>>pump, and to have it vaccum operated.  I will monitor the map signal and
>>start pumping water when the engine gets below a certian vaccum.  What
>>I could do with another op-amp and a 555 is have the water pump come in
>>at 50% duty cycle at one vaccum, and full on when it drops below another
>>vaccum.  I don't think I'll get carried away with using a pic chip,
>>because I really don't know the relationship between engine load and
>>knock.

Yep, you can dump in too much water.  This may result (although unlikely) in
hydraulic lock, which bends rods.  More likely you'll just lose power
instead, and/or have to fill the tank every 10 miles....

The Edelbrock Varajection system used 2 inputs, RPM (from the distributor)
and manifold pressure (internal sensor).  It uses a standard OEM type
windshield washer tank with built in pump, and a couple of different nozzles
that you can install in the top of the aircleaner.  It has a small check
valve in the water hose to prevent water from draining back to the tank. It
has 3 pots for setting it up:

RPM threshold - keeps water off until RPM setting is exceeded.  This keeps
water injection off at lower RPM's.
MAP threshold - keeps water off until manifold pressure drops below
setpoint.  This keeps water off at part throttle + cruise.
Volume - this controls the maximum pump speed, and thus the max volume of
water injected.

This was all done with a single LM324 quad opamp chip, a Motorola pressure
sensor, and a handfull of r's, c's + t's.  No PIC's.  BTW, I have a complete
one sitting in my garage collecting dust, if anyone's interested...

And At 01:57 AM 9/7/96 EDT, Jim Steck wrote:

>A good treatise on water injection can be found in Sir Henry Ricardo's fourth
>edition of "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine" pages 165-171.  His

>He also suggested that mixing up to 50% methanol with the water helped improved
>its volatility.  

I used to use stright windshield washer antifreeze in mine.  The Varajection
is basically all plastic, so corrosion was not a problem.  I read somewhere
that using Acetone/methanol/water mix worked even better, the acetone acts
as an octane boost.  Of course, with this, you may have problems with the
plastic parts.  As far as using Ethanol, who wants to dump in a bottle of
vodka with every fillup?  D'rather park the car, drink the vodka, and dream
about going fast...



regards
dn
dnorquay@awinc.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep  8 00:04:07 1996
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From: Jody Shapiro <jshapiro@Token.Net>
Message-Id: <199609072357.TAA03379@Zeus.Token.Net>
Subject: Water injection
To: diy_efi
Date: Sat, 7 Sep 1996 19:57:19 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: blown-f-body@f-body.org, f-body@f-body.org,
        jshapiro@Zeus.Token.Net (Jody Shapiro)
In-Reply-To: <199609072206.PAA24742@freya.van.hookup.net> from "Darrell Norquay" at Sep 7, 96 03:06:19 pm
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[This message is being sent to both the Do-It-Yourself Fuel Injection 
mailing-list and the F-body mailing list]

On the DIY_EFI reading list there's a book written by Jeff Hartman 
(published by Motorbooks International) titled "Fuel Injection:  
Installation, Performance Tuning, Modifications".  I've found this book 
to be pretty good in terms of info, including nitrous and turbo stuff.

Anyway, Jeff Harman has a new book out, "High-Performance Automotive 
Fuels & Fluids" that I think is pretty informative as well.  Issues of 
interest to me that he covers are water injection, nitrous oxide, 
octane & anti-knock additives, racing fuels (ethanol, methanol, etc.).  He 
also discusses lubricants, including a detailed discussions of synthetic 
motor oil (why it's good) and oil additives (and why most are bad).

Obviously, this book is no Heywood, but I found it to be pretty 
informative...  ISBN is 0-7603-0054-2 and price is $19.95US for those 
interested.

-Jody

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep  8 01:47:44 1996
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Date: Sat, 7 Sep 1996 21:32:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: Thor Johnson <johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu>
To: DIY EFI Maillist <diy_efi>
Subject: Why no feedback under WOT?
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>From studying my 300ZX Manual (and looking at the ECM tuning program), I 
understand that the ECM runs open loop in WOT situations.  Why?
Is it because the ECM program uses the O2 sensors for MPG reasons only, 
or do the physics change under WOT?

Thanks!

                Thor Johnson
       johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu
   http://falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu/~johnsont
                                                    
         Have you seen the WarpMap lately?                    
 http://falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu/~johnsont/warpmap  



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep  8 04:44:10 1996
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Date: Sun, 8 Sep 1996 00:33:57 -0400
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Injector Flow Variation
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Reply-To: diy_efi

>What an injector's flow rating is and what it actually flows can vary 
>quite a bit.  When we ultrasonicly clean them it does not always bring 
>them back in line.  How much of this is manufacturing variation?  After 
>seeing the variation in injectors I can'nt imagine using an untested set 
>in a performance application - certainly not a used set.  I would like to 
>hear others experience.  greg@atlantic-motorsports.com

Thats why so many injector service/sales company's have sprung up in the past
few years.  In showroom stock racing it has been the rage to flow the
injectors and then install the rich ones on the cylinders that run lean etc.
 At Cosworth they flow each injector on the bench before running them.  This
allows them to make sets and to seriel numbereach one to track their life.

Nissan rates their injectors in sets, they are 0-5% > spec or 0-5% < spec.
 When you replace one it has to match the rest of the set and there are
usually 2 or 3 part numbers for one flow rate.

Max.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep  8 06:07:31 1996
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From: "John Faubion" <jfaubion@beaches.net>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Ancient History
Date: Sun, 8 Sep 1996 00:45:48 -0500
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> power from the engine is a bad idea.  Different story at light loads or
> cruise. I have seen industrial methane powered stationary engines running
at
> AFR's of 28:1, and they last a longggg time.  Once you get the engine

Whoa! As soon as you changed fuel (methane) you changed the stoichiometric
ratio! So your comparison of 28:1 on methane means absolutely nothing when
related to gasoline. Its an apples to oranges. In addition you wouldn't
want to lean out an engine to reach maximum power. Max power will occur
with a slightly richer than stoich mixture. While best efficiency will
occur leaner than stoich.

> etc).  Ask any pilot, he will tell you that as a plane reaches cruise
> altitude and speed, you lean it out until the engine is just making
enough
> power to maintain cruise conditions.  This gives maximum fuel economy.

True.

> right, a low numerical rear end ratio or overdrive does increase mileage,
> but lowering RPM would also decrease HP and VE, and thus overall engine

Mainly by reducing frictional losses at the lower RPM.

> output. If you set it all up jesssstt raaht, so that VE, torque, and HP
all
> peak at a low enough RPM, which also coincides with your normal cruising
> speed, voila`, mega-MPG.  

Of course the ONLY rpm where torque, horsepower and VE could all peak at
the same time is at 5252 rpm. Not exactly most people's idea of a best
cruise speed! Now if your cam duration is short enough keep the engine
speed down, reducing the overall frictional losses (which are exponential
with regard to rpm) and then geared for this lower peak torque (at which VE
also peaks and usually BSFC) than you could have great mileage. I know this
is sort of what you were eluding to but just not getting there on the same
track.  :)

John Faubion
jfaubion@beaches.net

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep  8 21:25:53 1996
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From: "Tony Bryant" <bryantt@psc.fp.co.nz>
Organization: Fisher & Paykel PSC
To: diy_efi
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 08:36:07 +1200
Subject: Re: troubleshooting a taurus
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> From:          "Mike Fahrion" <mfahrion@bb-elec.com>
> Organization:  B&B Electronics Mfg. Co.
> To:            diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Date:          Fri, 6 Sep 1996 15:20:04 +0000
> Subject:       troubleshooting a taurus
> Priority:      normal
> Reply-to:      diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

> Sorry if this is a bit off subject.
> 
> A coworker has paid an insane sum to a dealer to fix a problem which 
> hasn't gone away - and I believe that it should be a simple EFI 
> problem.
> 
> The taurus has a very hard time starting after sitting overnite or 
> over perhaps 8-10 hours.  Takes a large amount of cranking with no 
> firing, then stumbles slowly to life.  Ambient temperature doesn't 
> seem to have any effect.  Computer reveals no fault codes, pump and 
> filter are good.
> 
> Isn't there a fuel accumulator which should maintain fuel pressure 
> when sitting?  If this was faulty would it allow pressure to drop - 
> forcing the pump to charge the system again before it could start?
> 
> Any insight would be appreciated
> 
> TIA
> -mike
> mfahrion@bb-elec.com
> 

Sounds like a marginal inductive (crank angle) pickup. These things 
produce a signal level proportional to the speed. Sounds like cold 
cranking is not producing enough signal.

The computer probably expects some havoc while starting, so doesn't 
bother to report any bizarrities (since it runs fine when running)
***********************************************************
* "Insanity is the only sane response to an insane world" *
*                 >> bryantt@fp.co.nz <<                  *
***********************************************************

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep  8 21:26:30 1996
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 08:20:00 +1200
From: "Woodd, Michael" <wooddm@akcity.govt.nz>
Organization: Auckland City
To: diy_efi (diy_efi)
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Steve says...

>This might be a dumb question, but why not non-circular valves?  I guess
>they wouldn't be able to spin.  Is that a problem?  I can see corners being 

>bad, but what about a nice oval shape?

>- --steve

It should be possible to use two valve stems to stop it spinning.  What
about making an oval valve with two stems at the, and machining an
existing four valve head to have two oval valves?  You could use the
existing valve guides.  Has this been tried before?  Could be tricky to
make the valves, with two stems and all, but not impossible.

Mike Woodd
(wooddm@akcity.govt.nz)

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep  8 21:36:51 1996
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Date: Sat, 7 Sep 1996 10:41:12 +0100
To: diy_efi
From: Jonathan Lloyd <john@jall.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: troubleshooting a taurus
In-Reply-To: <vines.Q097++d8AmA@bangate.compaq.com>
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In message <vines.Q097++d8AmA@bangate.compaq.com>,
SRavet@bangate.compaq.com writes
>"Mike Fahrion" <mfahrion@bb-elec.com> Wrote:
>| 
>| Sorry if this is a bit off subject.
>| 
>| A coworker has paid an insane sum to a dealer to fix a problem which 
>| hasn't gone away - and I believe that it should be a simple EFI 
>| problem.
What sort of EFI system? Any chance the idle or bypass system is not
working thus not applying any throttle for starting cold.
-- 
Jonathan Lloyd     john@anergy.demon.co.uk

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep  8 23:01:08 1996
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Date: 08 Sep 96 18:50:34 EDT
From: Jeffrey.Giberstein@Dartmouth.EDU (Jeffrey Giberstein)
Subject: Re: Injector Flow Variation
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Both aftermarket suppliers and OEM's (where necessary) will flow injectors and
match sets as best as possible.  If, for instance, you were to order injectors
from Kinsler, they'd do this for you.  I learned this the hard way 'cause I had
Ford send me some injectors for a Formula SAE EFI project and well into
development, I decided to check flow and the injectors were grossly out of
whack with eachother.

JG

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep  8 23:08:11 1996
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Date: Sun, 08 Sep 1996 18:41:14 -0700
To: diy_efi
From: "William A. Sarkozy" <mymove@serv01.net-link.net>
Subject: Re: Water Injection
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At 08:26 AM 9/6/96 -0600, you wrote:
>
>O.K., My daily driver (w/ 160k miles) is starting to knock unless I use
>premium.  I think I'll put in a water injection system, but have a few
>questions.  Can you dump in too much water?  I plan on a winshield washer
>pump, and to have it vaccum operated.  I will monitor the map signal and
>start pumping water when the engine gets below a certian vaccum.  What
>I could do with another op-amp and a 555 is have the water pump come in
>at 50% duty cycle at one vaccum, and full on when it drops below another
>vaccum.  I don't think I'll get carried away with using a pic chip,
>because I really don't know the relationship between engine load and
>knock.
>  Would it be better to have the water controlled off throttle position?
>Thanks for your time,
>-Steven Ciciora
>
>
Your 2-stage idea is good, but I would use 2 pumps.....1 at moderate vacuum
and 1 at very low vacuum, each with its own regulating nozzle.  The idea of
modulating the motor speed (pump output) sounds good, but unless you have a
closed loop motor speed control for the pump, you're in for a suprise.
There are too many extraneous factors which will influence pump output
(nozzle position, temperature, etc.)  If you could call for a given motor
speed with a certain voltage, it would be great, but you
won't get 50 % motor speed by applying 50% voltage.  And you won't get the
response
you want either.  Also, I wouldn't key the water off throttle position....a
given throttle
position at heavy load can mean completely different operating
characteristics that the same throttle position at light load and high
speed.  Good luck.....

                                                                            
           Bill


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep  8 23:44:01 1996
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Date: Sun, 8 Sep 1996 19:31:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: Thor Johnson <johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu>
To: DIY EFI Maillist <diy_efi>
Subject: Water Injection for power?
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I just looked at the current issue of "Midnight Engineering," and saw an 
article that may be of interest.  The author suggested that, instead of 
the usual fan/radiator/et al, the cylinders be cooled by injecting water 
(diesel style) during the latter part of the power stroke.  The H2O would 
flash into steam, thereby changing the heat (normally exhasted) into 
mechanical power.

  I, for one, would like to try this.  How hard would it be to make an 
additional hole in the head for this purpose (I have little/no mechanical 
background), and would it have adverse effects on a HC engine (Honda F2)?

Comments?


                Thor Johnson
       johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu
   http://falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu/~johnsont
                                                    
         Have you seen the WarpMap lately?                    
 http://falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu/~johnsont/warpmap  



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  9 00:27:30 1996
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Date: Sat, 7 Sep 1996 10:20:44 +0100
To: diy_efi
From: Jonathan Lloyd <john@jall.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Ancient History
In-Reply-To: <9609061511.AB00164@mv8.orbeng.com.au>
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In message <9609061511.AB00164@mv8.orbeng.com.au>, RABBITT_Andrew@mv8.or
beng.com.au writes
>
>>cylinder contains free oxygen and free hydrocarbon radicals and the
>>whole lot reacts at once.  Bad news , knock , damage etc. 
>
>Not exactly true.  Combustion pressure, temperature and radiation are 
>required to initiate knock, which is where areas in the combustion 
>chamber auto-ignite causing several flame fronts to develop 
>uncontrolled.
>
As this is an EFI group I'll refrain from chatting about combustion but
for anyone who does it is important to be very clear about the terms
used  i.e. ignition, flame etc.  At basics the whole thing is a chemical
reaction and the issues are what reactions and what drives them.  There
are many different and driven by different things.
-- 
Jonathan Lloyd     john@anergy.demon.co.uk

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  9 00:50:36 1996
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From: Jim Zurlo <zurlo@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Water Injection for power?
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At 07:31 PM 9/8/96 -0400, you wrote:
>
>I just looked at the current issue of "Midnight Engineering," and saw an 
>article that may be of interest.  The author suggested that, instead of 
>the usual fan/radiator/et al, the cylinders be cooled by injecting water 
>(diesel style) during the latter part of the power stroke.  The H2O would 
>flash into steam, thereby changing the heat (normally exhasted) into 
>mechanical power.
>

Southwest Research Institute did this I think sometime in the '60s or early
'70s.  They could inject enough water to eliminate the radiator, but if
memory serves me there was a problem with mineral build up inside the combustion
chamber.  It's all documented in an SAE paper.

Jim Zurlo
zurlo@execpc.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  9 01:31:31 1996
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From: Stuart Baly <S.Baly@BoM.gov.au>
To: diy_efi
Subject: re: Manifold/throttle bodys-ED:-)
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>Does anyone know what would happen if you joined all the chokes 
>together on the down-stream side of each throttle, kind of like 
>forming a mini-plenum for improving balance robustness at low throttle 
>openings, but still allowing the correct runner design and plenum 
>volume up-stream of the blades for WOT performance?


Yamaha also had another version of this apart from YDIS - I can't remember 
it's name but its used on the Yamaha V-Max. The engine is a 1200 V-4 with 
four downdraught carbs in the V. At high revs two butterflies open to join 
the intakes in pairs across the V. The idea is that the cylinders in each 
pair are drawing in air at separate times, so each cylinder can use two 
carbs rather than one. I don't know if it made that much difference to 
power, but a 145hp from a 1.2L engine is alright.


Stuart


P.S. All this talk of knock reminds me...

One Sunday night recently I went for a ride in a Daihatsu Charade with a 
friend of mine. She said "Hey, listen to this!" and accelerated out of a 
25mph corner at full throttle in top gear, knocking like a dog (the car, 
not the driver) all the way to about 50mph. She was laughing all the way, 
and said "It sounds like a truck!". I asked her how long she'd been doing 
that, and she said "Oh, most of the week."! These Daihatsus are tough 
little cars.


=========================================================
             Stuart Baly (S.Baly@BoM.gov.au)
'71 Datrat 1600, '89 Kawasaki GPz900R, '81 Yamaha RD350LC
=========================================================

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  9 03:10:35 1996
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From: Darrell Norquay <dnorquay@awinc.com>
Subject: Re: Ancient History
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At 12:45 AM 9/8/96 -0500, John Faubion wrote:

>Whoa! As soon as you changed fuel (methane) you changed the stoichiometric
>ratio! So your comparison of 28:1 on methane means absolutely nothing when
>related to gasoline. Its an apples to oranges. In addition you wouldn't
>want to lean out an engine to reach maximum power. Max power will occur
>with a slightly richer than stoich mixture. While best efficiency will
>occur leaner than stoich.

Granted, the change of fuel makes a big difference, but the point was that
28:1 AFR is Very Lean, even for methane.  I did not say it was making
anywhere near maximum power at this AFR, again, it was making just enough
power for it's intended (constant) load.

>Mainly by reducing frictional losses at the lower RPM.

This would be more of a factor with a big block, since it has higher
frictional losses due to increased bore, stroke, stc.

>Of course the ONLY rpm where torque, horsepower and VE could all peak at
>the same time is at 5252 rpm. Not exactly most people's idea of a best
>cruise speed! Now if your cam duration is short enough keep the engine
>speed down, reducing the overall frictional losses (which are exponential
>with regard to rpm) and then geared for this lower peak torque (at which VE
>also peaks and usually BSFC) than you could have great mileage. I know this
>is sort of what you were eluding to but just not getting there on the same
>track.  :)

I wasn't aware of the magic number of 5252 RPM, how did you arrive at it? 
I can't see this applying to ALL internal combustion engines across the board...
As far as best cruise RPM, depends if it's a Honda 750cc four or a 512ci
Caddy, doesn't it?  You're right, I shouldn't have included HP in that list,
but the point was, that if all you're interested in is enough horsepower to
cruise, it doesn't matter how much horsepower you can make at some other
RPM.  Horsepower is proportional to RPM, so in theory, the higher the RPM,
the higher the horsepower.  Of course, this is ultimately limited by engine
design, VE, and a whole host of other things.






regards
dn
dnorquay@awinc.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  9 05:54:36 1996
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 13:23:42 est
To: diy_efi
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>Granted, the change of fuel makes a big difference, but the point was 
>that 28:1 AFR is Very Lean, even for methane. 

The biggest influence on fuel consumption is in pumping work (ie 
manifold pressure, or lack thereof).

If you choose to run a 400+cid engine, then to produce the sort of 
power necessary for cruising (10-20 hp), you will be running 
relatively low manifold pressures compared to a smaller engine 
producing the same power.  Remember, the manifold depression is 
un-recovered, therfore represents a power loss.  

The slower you spin the engine, then the higher the manifold pressure 
is for the same airflow (power), hence your pumping work (losses) is 
less.  Dropping the axle ratio (numerically) will give you benefits in 
fuel consumption at the same (road) speed simply because you have your 
foot on the throttle harder (strange but true! :)

Running lean does effectively the same thing, by running the same 
fuelling level, but higher airflow, the manifold depression is 
reduced, saving power.







From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  9 06:07:23 1996
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From: "George Lerm" <GEORGE@REDXCH.WCAPE.GOV.ZA>
To: DIY_EFI
Date:          Mon, 9 Sep 1996 08:01:55 GMT-2
Subject:       Http address
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Hi

Could anybody tell me if something is amiss with the efi332 
page. Unable to get access at all.


  efi332  http://www.cim.swin.edu.au/~aden/web-docs/efi332/332_index.html

Thanks

George Lerm
Clinical Engineering
Red Cross Hospital
Private Bag
Rondebosch
Cape Town
South Africa
7700

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  9 08:49:55 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'Fred Francis'"
	 <Fred_Francis@mail.dnr.state.ga.us>
Subject: RE: Sequential VS Batch fire systems
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 10:17:47 +-200
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Well for a start, if you have ONE cylinder that wants to 'pink' you can =
change the timing, and how much fuel you throw into one cylinder, and =
keep all the others at 'normal'.....

Just a thought

Mark


----------
From:  Fred Francis[SMTP:Fred_Francis@mail.dnr.state.ga.us]
Sent:  Friday, September 06, 1996 5:03 PM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Sequential VS Batch fire systems

RABBITT Wrote:=20
<small snip> ....
All the applications that Robert J. Harris quoted in his original post  =
were
high-speed, high power applications, and sequential fuelling is  not =
going to
give you anything here.  What sequential injection does give is better =
low
speed, part load combustion stability leading to better real-world =
driveability.

Would anyone like to comment on batch fire vs sequential injection =
systems?=20
What are the real world advantages to each under specific circumstances? =
 GM
went to sequential systems recently on the new camaros and corvettes, =
WHY?  Is
anything really gained with a sequential system in terms of performance,
efficiency or driveablility?

~~fred





From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  9 08:49:55 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: diy_efi <diy_efi>, "'Woodd, Michael'"
	 <wooddm@akcity.govt.nz>
Subject: RE: Re: hi compressions
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 09:32:12 +-200
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Problem comes, trying to work out the shims, so that both stems are =
working together, and not trying to compress two valve springs, by only =
pressing on one stem.

Mark

----------
From:  Woodd, Michael[SMTP:wooddm@akcity.govt.nz]
Sent:  Sunday, September 08, 1996 10:20 PM
To:  diy_efi
Subject:  re: Re: hi compressions


Steve says...

>This might be a dumb question, but why not non-circular valves?  I =
guess
>they wouldn't be able to spin.  Is that a problem?  I can see corners =
being=20

>bad, but what about a nice oval shape?

>- --steve

It should be possible to use two valve stems to stop it spinning.  What
about making an oval valve with two stems at the, and machining an
existing four valve head to have two oval valves?  You could use the
existing valve guides.  Has this been tried before?  Could be tricky to
make the valves, with two stems and all, but not impossible.

Mike Woodd
(wooddm@akcity.govt.nz)



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  9 08:50:00 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'Greg Finnican'"
	 <f0247@vnet.net>
Subject: RE: Injector Flow Variation
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 10:22:46 +-200
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Is it worth testing them on the bench, flowing at 20%, 40% 60% and 80% =
flows for a while, and actually seeing how much they flow, and putting =
the adjustment into the code????


Comments please... as I've never really thought about this bit of =
potentially disastrous mismatch.


Mark


----------
From:  Greg Finnican[SMTP:f0247@vnet.net]
Sent:  Saturday, September 07, 1996 6:22 PM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Injector Flow Variation

What an injector's flow rating is and what it actually flows can vary=20
quite a bit.  When we ultrasonicly clean them it does not always bring=20
them back in line.  How much of this is manufacturing variation?  After=20
seeing the variation in injectors I can'nt imagine using an untested set =

in a performance application - certainly not a used set.  I would like =
to=20
hear others experience.  greg@atlantic-motorsports.com



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  9 09:41:21 1996
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From: "Hans Hintermaier" <HIHA@GNF99M.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de>
Organization:  LMU-GRH Dept. of Neurology
To: diy_efi
Date:          Mon, 9 Sep 1996 12:34:44 MET
Subject: Re: Fuel on the intake valves
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> FWIW, Nissan has been doing it since 1984 on their V6 engines.  I'm not sure
> about some of the other makers though.  Actually, most of the fuel
> atomization takes place through evaporation of the fuel on the hot intake
> valve (at lower engine speeds).  Various people have tried open valve
> described as "Making Oil" due to the large amounts of un evaporated fuel that
> gets washed down the bore at lower rpms.  Supposedly the only way to make it
> work is to aim the injector to hit the really hot exhaust valve.  Obviously
> this requires a specific head and manifold setup to accomplish.
In WW2 there were direct injected aircraft engines (only experiments?) 
The injector was placed high in cylinder sidewall and sprayed on the 
closed exthaust valve.
Hans
hiha@ brain.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de
Munich / Germany

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  9 13:50:39 1996
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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Http address
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>Hi
>
>Could anybody tell me if something is amiss with the efi332 
>page. Unable to get access at all.
>
>
>  efi332  http://www.cim.swin.edu.au/~aden/web-docs/efi332/332_index.html
>
>Thanks
>
>George Lerm

I had to keep trying

tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  9 13:50:40 1996
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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: RE: Injector Flow Variation
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>Is it worth testing them on the bench, flowing at 20%, 40% 60% and 80%
flows for a while, and actually seeing how much they flow, and putting the
adjustment into the code????
>
>
>Comments please... as I've never really thought about this bit of
potentially disastrous mismatch.
>

I thought that's what SFI did for you ??

tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  9 15:47:04 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Re: hi compressions
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 08:35:58 -0700
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Remember the Reichstag

----------
From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: diy_efi <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>; 'Woodd, Michael'
<wooddm@akcity.govt.nz>
Subject: RE: Re: hi compressions
Date: Friday, September 20, 1996 2:32 AM

Problem comes, trying to work out the shims, so that both stems are working
together, and not trying to compress two valve springs, by only pressing on
one stem.

Mark

Of course, you could take ancient history 101 and re-invent the rotary
valve
engine and eliminate valves in their entirety.  Basically picture a dual
overhead
cam with intake on one cam - exhaust on the other.  Shove it down so that 
part of the cam is in the combustion chamber. Make the cam relatively
large in diameter and hollow.  Put a hole in it such that at a certain
time,
the hole opens to the chamber.  Make the cams hollow and flow the gasses
through it to the machined ports.  No valves, just big timed holes,  no
springs 
so no float and very little friction.  This was down during the thirties by
the
way.  With modern ceramics and molycoatings, this concept slight might
have a chance again - a lot better than a two stems valve or oval valve. 

Side note - when and why was fuel injection invented???   Answer - 1920's 
so that high performance fighter aircraft could maintain sustained inverted

flight (upside down) without fuel starvation.  Perfected for narrow power 
and rpm range aircraft engines by end of WW II.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  9 16:18:02 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Re: hi compressions
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 09:11:02 -0700
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Remember the Reichstag

----------
From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: diy_efi <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>; 'Woodd, Michael'
<wooddm@akcity.govt.nz>
Subject: RE: Re: hi compressions
Date: Friday, September 20, 1996 2:32 AM

Problem comes, trying to work out the shims, so that both stems are working


Of Course you could get really crazy.   Remember the flathead ford V-8's,
They
had a really convoluted exhaust flow problem.  Valve in block, port bending

around the cylinder - all the way across the block and exiting thru a
siamesed
port on the center cylinders.  An air flow nightmare.

So some racers in the thirties and forties "two-cycled" it and made lots
more
power.  Involved cutting an exhaust port looking just like a two cycle
engines
around bottom dead center and running a separate exhaust pipe.  Opened 
around twenty five degrees before and after bottom dead certer.

At the end of the compression stroke - port opened and a significant chunk
of
exhaust left the engine. Exhaust stroke pumped some of the rest thru the 
stock exhaust   Yes, at the bottom of the intake - some charge went into
the
exhaust or some exhaust came back into the engine, but the vast improvement
in exhaust flow far made up the loss in intake efficiency.

---- Sniveling Tirade Follows - Cut Here ----------
No - was not invented at a university, nor were eurocentric book writers
really
interested in writing about colonial backyard mechanic's improvements in
crude production engines so you had to see it to remember it.  No, it was
not
tested on street engines, no it was not proctology examined to infinite
detail, yes
it was less than optium, no - nobody ever wrote much about it. but it
f____ng WORKED.   All I am trying to say is that there is a gold mine of
ancient 
history to be  examined for "new" ideas and what is considered "NEW" was
probably invented in the thirties and nearly perfected by the various air
forces.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  9 17:44:50 1996
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"Woodd, Michael" <wooddm@akcity.govt.nz> Wrote:
| 
| 
| Steve says...
| 
| >This might be a dumb question, but why not non-circular valves?  I guess
| >they wouldn't be able to spin.  Is that a problem?  I can see corners 
being 
| 
| >bad, but what about a nice oval shape?
| 
| >- --steve
| 
| It should be possible to use two valve stems to stop it spinning.  What
| about making an oval valve with two stems at the, and machining an
| existing four valve head to have two oval valves?  You could use the
| existing valve guides.  Has this been tried before?  Could be tricky to
| make the valves, with two stems and all, but not impossible.

You could spline a single shaft to keep it from spinning also.  But, valves 
rotate now by design, right?  Why, and what would happen to an oddly shaped 
valve that couldn't rotate?

--steve


Steve Ravet
sravet@bangate.compaq.com
Baby you're a genius when it comes to cooking up some chili sauce...

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  9 18:52:11 1996
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Check out the I'LL SHO-U-PERFORMANCE Web site at www.cwci.com/isup/

Tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  9 19:13:29 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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On Mon, 9 Sep 1996, Robert J. Harris wrote: 

> All I am trying to say is that there is a gold mine of > ancient >
history to be examined for "new" ideas and what is considered "NEW" was >
probably invented in the thirties and nearly perfected by the various air
> forces.
> 
> 

Yeah, I discover that all the time here at the patent office. You 
wouldn't believe the ideas people have come upo with over the years. 
Stuff you thought was new turns out to be ancient history. 

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  9 20:49:50 1996
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> Do these numbers really bother anyone?  12mpg highway for a 455? I mean,
> I've read about 46-48mpg from a turbo v-6; 28-30mpg from 5.7L z/28's,
> and 31mpg from 5.0L mustangs.  While I don't believe any of them; 

[snip]

> I have driven in far too many 30mpg
> 5.0L mustangs (only to get 18-20) and 27mpg 5.7L '95 Z/28s (only to get 22.5)
> Maybe those cars get that kind of mileage at 60mph going down a hill with a 
> tailwind, a real skinny driver and at a high altitude (higher altitudes get
> better gas mileage, especially with efi).
> When I say highway, I mean just that: jump on the freeway and drive.  That also
> means slowing down a little, speeding up, passing the old people, showing a
> Porshe
> a thing or two :)

[snip]

> Arnaldo Echevarria

You better believe it: when driving from Dallas to memphis, speed range 70 mph
to 95 mph, I got 27.5 mpg. Most of the tankful was driving at 80mph. A friend 
in a '95 Trans Am that made the trip with me had a best of 28.5 (his engine was
more broken in, mine was fresh at 2k miles). 


-------

Markus '96 Z28 w/ mods. Proof that OBDII is not the end of performance.
  

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  9 22:26:45 1996
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From: James Weiler <james@brc.ubc.ca>
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On Mon, 9 Sep 1996 SRavet@bangate.compaq.com wrote:

> 
> You could spline a single shaft to keep it from spinning also.  But, valves 
> rotate now by design, right?  Why, and what would happen to an oddly shaped 
> valve that couldn't rotate?
> 
> --steve
> 

Well there are a few engines out there that have valves that DON'T 
rotate.  These are the old Boss engines from Ford (302,351 and the 429). 
These valves are held in place by keepers that pinch the valve stem (ie 
the keepers don't butt against eachother).  The result are valves and valve 
seats that don't last as long but the pay off is less risk of dropping a 
valve at high RPM.  My Boss 351 is set up like this, I just had the heads 
redone and the exhaust valves had to be replaced because of this. (or so 
my machinist told me...he seems very trustworthy) 
Just my two cents...(and my first post to this list!)
cheers everyone...
james


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  9 22:50:37 1996
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From: Arnaldo Echevarria <aec@ao.net>
Subject: re: Ancient History (now fuel economy)
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>The biggest influence on fuel consumption is in pumping work (ie 
>manifold pressure, or lack thereof).

OK
>
>If you choose to run a 400+cid engine, then to produce the sort of 
>power necessary for cruising (10-20 hp), you will be running 
>relatively low manifold pressures compared to a smaller engine 
>producing the same power.  Remember, the manifold depression is 
>un-recovered, therfore represents a power loss.  

At the same RPM? Could you clarify this? An engine requires a minimum a/f
ratio to overcome frictional losses, keep inertia (accel=0), and move the
drivetrain (i'm speaking about a fixed RPM, fixed speed).  The manifold pressure
is just a function of the throttle position and the rpm, not of the load, 
at least I don't think.  Now if you place a heavy load on an engine at low RPMs,
then you have to give it more air and/or gas; well, here's where I confuse
myself.
Is the load a cause or an effect?

>
>The slower you spin the engine, then the higher the manifold pressure 
>is for the same airflow (power), hence your pumping work (losses) is 
>less.  Dropping the axle ratio (numerically) will give you benefits in 
>fuel consumption at the same (road) speed simply because you have your 
>foot on the throttle harder (strange but true! :)

Wait.  You said that the higher the manifold depresion, the higher the 
power loss.  Now you say that the higher manifold pressure you get less pumping
work (ie better fuel economy)?? Now I'm really confused. Which is it?

OK then you say that dropping your axle ratio gives you better gas mileage,
which
I agree (when I went from a 2.79:1 final drive ratio to a 2.05:1 ratio on a 305 
I went from 16 to 21.5MPG).  But then you say it is because you have your foot 
on the throttle harder? No way.  On that same car I remember barely touching
the gas
when cruising at 75mph (about 2000rpm or so) when before I would have to get
on it 
at least 3/8 pedal.

How low you can go on RPMs is really a function of engine size and
bore/stroke ratio.
I had a friend with a 5.0L mustang try the same thing with very little success
(he lowered the gear ratio so much it would need a higher throttle setting
to keep 
the same mpg.)  To me, as a rule of thumb, gas mileage is proportional to
throttle
position (relative to car, of course).  The more you can stay off the pedal,
the 
better (and of course this goes for carburators only)

Arnaldo

MPG)

>>Running lean does effectively the same thing, by running the same 
>fuelling level, but higher airflow, the manifold depression is 
>reduced, saving power.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep  9 22:50:41 1996
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Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 18:46:49 -0400
From: "Edward C. Hernandez" <ehernan3@ford.com>
Organization: V engine, Components B Department
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In case anyone is wondering, I am in class for two weeks, followed by a
week's business trip to Europe to take on another pair of intake
manifolds. Apparently, I am not busy enough... 

I have 266 unread messages in my box now. By the time I get back, who
knows how far behind I will be. Sigh. Wish I could read more of your
stuff, much less respond to it.


Ed Hernandez
Ford Motor Company
ehernan3@ed8719.pto.ford.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 00:04:36 1996
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From: "John Faubion" <jfaubion@beaches.net>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Ancient History
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 18:17:03 -0500
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> >Mainly by reducing frictional losses at the lower RPM.
> 
> This would be more of a factor with a big block, since it has higher
> frictional losses due to increased bore, stroke, stc.

Well with any engine for that matter. The bigger the bore, longer the
stroke, the number of rings, the number of cylinders, ad nausem, the
greater the frictional losses. But no matter what engine it is the greater
the RPM the greater the frictional losses.

> I wasn't aware of the magic number of 5252 RPM, how did you arrive at it?

> I can't see this applying to ALL internal combustion engines across the
board...

Well actually I didn't. :)  Mr. Watt did around the 17th century. Draft
horses were used to pump water out of mines. The horses pulled a 12 foot
lever to turn a capstan which in turned operated a pump. He figured the
horses could apply 180 pounds of force to the lever. The circumference of
the circle was 75.4 feet (2xPIx12). The horses could make 144 trips around
the circle in an hour or 2.4 per minute. So the horse traveled at 180.96
feet per minute (2.4x75.4). Watt then multiplied this to arrive at 32,580
ft-lb./min (181x180) which he rounded up to 33,000 ft-lb./min or 550
ft-lb./sec (33000/60). This became the standard definition of horsepower.
Now to get back on track for your question. 

Horsepower is a force in pounds applied over a distance in feet in a time
of 1 minute. To convert the engines rotational force into horsepower, we
need to know how far the free end of a 1 foot lever travels in 1 minute.
That is the circumference of circle with a radius of 1 foot times the RPM
of the engine. The circumference would be 2 times PI times 1 foot or 6.183
feet. So our formula would be 6.183 times RPM times torque (in ft-lb.).
This could then be divided by 33,000 to arrive at horsepower. We end up
with a formula that looks like this:

6.183xRPMxTorque
---------------------------- = Horsepower
       33,000

If we then divide the left side by 2 time PI we eliminate the 6.183 on top
and reduce the 33,000 to 5252.11 which we round down to end up with:

RPMxTorque
------------------- = Horsepower
     5252

This is how you can calculate horsepower from torque if you know what RPM
it was taken at. 

> As far as best cruise RPM, depends if it's a Honda 750cc four or a 512ci
> Caddy, doesn't it?  You're right, I shouldn't have included HP in that
list,

To a point yes. Overall it will depend on a multitude of factors, such as
cam timing, chamber design, flow characteristics of intake and exhaust
systems, and etc... Everything has to be taken in the overall system. This
is the biggest problem of most hot rodders. They will add headers, an
intake and a wild cam, and when the car runs slower that it did stock they
complain about all of the parts they bought. If they considered the entire
car as a system and matched the components to run in a compatible range and
then changed the gear ratios to use that particular range, they would be
much happier and the car would be much faster. 

John Faubion
jfaubion@beaches.net

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 01:35:10 1996
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From: dzorde@aesprodata.com.au
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 96 09:42:07 
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To: diy_efi
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     My understanding has always been that the valve spins to promote even 
     seat wear and to avoid the valve sticking due to constant hammering on 
     the same spots.
     
     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: re: Re: hi compressions
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
Date:    9/10/96 8:15 AM


     
On Mon, 9 Sep 1996 SRavet@bangate.compaq.com wrote:
     
> 
> You could spline a single shaft to keep it from spinning also.  But, valves 
> rotate now by design, right?  Why, and what would happen to an oddly shaped 
> valve that couldn't rotate?
> 
> --steve
> 
     
Well there are a few engines out there that have valves that DON'T 
rotate.  These are the old Boss engines from Ford (302,351 and the 429). 
These valves are held in place by keepers that pinch the valve stem (ie 
the keepers don't butt against eachother).  The result are valves and valve 
seats that don't last as long but the pay off is less risk of dropping a 
valve at high RPM.  My Boss 351 is set up like this, I just had the heads 
redone and the exhaust valves had to be replaced because of this. (or so 
my machinist told me...he seems very trustworthy) 
Just my two cents...(and my first post to this list!) 
cheers everyone...
james
     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 01:38:22 1996
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	id AA10989; Mon, 9 Sep 1996 20:33:56 -0500
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 20:33:56 -0500
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To: diy_efi
From: pantera@pobox.com (David Doddek)
Subject: Re: Re Propane injectors
Sender: owner-diy_efi
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: diy_efi

>> >Is there such a thing as an electronically controlled diesel injector?
>> >(aka instead of the usual mechanical fuel pump distributor thing..)
>> >
>> Yes:
>> 
>> But diesel injection needs around 25,000 psi of fuel pressure, so the
>> injector is a plunger piston pump that is operated off a lobe of the cam
>> shaft (twice as wide as the one that opens the valves).  The electric
>> solenoid is a bypass port that when ON blocks the outlet of the injector
>> 'pump' and forces it into the cylinder.  When OFF the flow returns to the
>> fuel tank.
>
>Aaah, I see why "EFI diesels" are only recently appearing. Do they
>really use 25000 PSI?? I thought it would only be a few hundred PSI.
>
>Craig.
>
>
Yes, the pressure is that high.  Some times it can get as high as 35000.

David J. Doddek                                          |pantera@pobox.com
Owner SGD Electronics & Development Engr for Caterpillar |h 309 685-7965
Formula SAE Team Sidewinder 94-95                        |w 309 578-2931
89 T-bird SC,  69 Fairlane w/SGD EFI                     |fx 217 428-4686
74 Pantera w/Electromotive Tec-II Twin turbos and Nitros |
Hey, If you are going to go fast, go REEEAAL FAST.       |


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 01:38:25 1996
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	id AA09723; Mon, 9 Sep 1996 20:34:00 -0500
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 20:34:00 -0500
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To: diy_efi
From: pantera@pobox.com (David Doddek)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Re Propane injectors
Sender: owner-diy_efi
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: diy_efi

>
>     Guess you don't want a pipe to burst while you are leaning over it, or 
>     you may just loose a few body parts.
>
>
Actually the high pressure area is at the tip of the injector which is
located far in the center of the cylinder head.  Then again the injector is
only about 1.5 inches in diameter and 8 inches long.  The high pressure is
necessary to cause an adequate atomization and still be pressed into the
cylinder when the flame front is active.  Remember the diesel fuel in burnt
as it is injected. Thus you have to overcome combustion pressures.

David J. Doddek                                          |pantera@pobox.com
Owner SGD Electronics & Development Engr for Caterpillar |h 309 685-7965
Formula SAE Team Sidewinder 94-95                        |w 309 578-2931
89 T-bird SC,  69 Fairlane w/SGD EFI                     |fx 217 428-4686
74 Pantera w/Electromotive Tec-II Twin turbos and Nitros |
Hey, If you are going to go fast, go REEEAAL FAST.       |


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 01:38:38 1996
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	id AA11027; Mon, 9 Sep 1996 20:34:11 -0500
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 20:34:11 -0500
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To: diy_efi
From: pantera@pobox.com (David Doddek)
Subject: Re: troubleshooting a taurus
Sender: owner-diy_efi
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: diy_efi

>mike wrote: 
>
>>...
>>The taurus has a very hard time starting after sitting overnite or 
>>over perhaps 8-10 hours.  Takes a large amount of cranking with no 
>>firing, then stumbles slowly to life.  Ambient temperature doesn't 
>>seem to have any effect.  Computer reveals no fault codes, pump and 
>>filter are good.
>>
>>Isn't there a fuel accumulator which should maintain fuel pressure 
>>when sitting?  If this was faulty would it allow pressure to drop - 
>>forcing the pump to charge the system again before it could start?
>
>No accumulator, it needs to be a leak-free system, for obvious reasons.
>It does sound like fuel pressure has gone away.  Assuming this is a V6, 
>(you don't say, and you don't even say what year) there is a Shrader 
>valve near the front where you can measure fuel pressure.  It should be 
>35 psi at idle, and about 25-30 after sitting.
>
>Turning on the ign should cause fuel pump to run a couple of seconds, 
>then stop.  Try switching on and off once or twice before starting to 
>see if that helps.
>
>EFI in my '86 Sable V6 has been almost flawless in 115K miles.  Had to 
>correct a weak idle recently by de-coking the air bypass.
>
>RD
>
If you have a fuel problem, then it would not run or start hot.  The fuel
will pressurize in a few seconds from zero pressure and the engine will not
always hold pressure for a long time.  It does not have to.  My car looses
all pressure in a matter of minutes.

The problem sound like a cold starting problem, ie cold engine ie not hot.
A cold (ambient) engine requires extra fuel to start until the cylinder
surfaces get hot.  Takes about 3 minutes on an average day.  A little longer
in the winter.  The computer detects this by measuring the engine temp with
sensor and giving the engine extra fuel.  Try changing the engine coolant
temp sensor.  It sounds like it has failed to a level that does not trip the
diagnostics, but gives the computer a false signal making it think the
engine is hot and thus gives it no starting enrichent.  This is why it still
starts when it is warm.

David J. Doddek                                          |pantera@pobox.com
Owner SGD Electronics & Development Engr for Caterpillar |h 309 685-7965
Formula SAE Team Sidewinder 94-95                        |w 309 578-2931
89 T-bird SC,  69 Fairlane w/SGD EFI                     |fx 217 428-4686
74 Pantera w/Electromotive Tec-II Twin turbos and Nitros |
Hey, If you are going to go fast, go REEEAAL FAST.       |


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 02:12:39 1996
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          9 Sep 96 23:02 GMT
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          by relay-3.mail.demon.net  id aa05490; 10 Sep 96 0:02 BST
Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 22:31:28 GMT
From: Clint Sharp <clint@clintsmc.demon.co.uk>
Message-Id: <789@clintsmc.demon.co.uk>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: hi compressions
X-Mailer: FIMail V0.9d
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Reply-To: diy_efi

In your message dated Monday 9, September 1996 you wrote :

> Of course, you could take ancient history 101 and re-invent the rotary
> valve engine and eliminate valves in their entirety. 
> This was down during the thirties by the way.  With modern ceramics and
> molycoatings, this concept slight might have a chance again - a lot better
> than a two stems valve or oval valve. 
I read an article in a UK (?) magazine not too long ago about a company that 
has achieved this, I think they claim to have invented the concept so I was 
surprised to read this message.
-- 
If you have a problem with excess cash, mail all those 
unwanted notes in plain packing to; 
                       clint@clintsmc.demon.co.uk


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 03:11:00 1996
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 10:12:26 est
To: diy_efi
Subject: re: Fuel Economy
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X-Ceo_Options: Document

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end



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 03:19:18 1996
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Date: Mon, 9 Sep 1996 19:56:51 -0700 (PDT)
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To: diy_efi
From: Darrell Norquay <dnorquay@awinc.com>
Subject: Re: Ancient History
Sender: owner-diy_efi
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: diy_efi

At 06:17 PM 9/9/96 -0500, John Faubion wrote:

>> I wasn't aware of the magic number of 5252 RPM, how did you arrive at it?

>Well actually I didn't. :)  

At least you're honest...

Obviously, I should have consulted my elementary Physics text.  This brings
us to the formula:

> RPMxTorque
>------------ = Horsepower
>   5252

And, from a previous post:

>Of course the ONLY rpm where torque, horsepower and VE could all peak at
>the same time is at 5252 rpm.

I don't see how you arrive at this conclusion.  If you substitute 5252 for
RPM in the above equation, all you get is the fact that HP must = Torque at
this particular RPM.  This does not mean that they are all maximums at this
RPM, only that they must be equal.  This should mean that regardless of the
engine, the horsepower and torque curves should cross each other at 5250
RPM.  I dug out some old HP Books editions like "How to Hotrod Smallblock
Chevys" and perused some of the comparative "before + after" Dyno curves.  A
few of them had torque and HP curves equal at 5250 RPM, but most didn't.
Obviously, there are other factors at work here.

>If they considered the entire
>car as a system and matched the components to run in a compatible range and
>then changed the gear ratios to use that particular range, they would be
>much happier and the car would be much faster. 

I agree wholeheartedly.  Unfortuneately, most speed shops are only
interested in getting your money, not your money's worth.


regards
dn
dnorquay@awinc.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 07:19:43 1996
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From: "Hans Hintermaier" <HIHA@GNF99M.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de>
Organization:  LMU-GRH Dept. of Neurology
To: diy_efi
Date:          Tue, 10 Sep 1996 09:13:04 MET
Subject: Oval Shaped Valves
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Hi all,
I own some books of "Apfelbeck", his philosophy was the "radial 
diametral" 4 valve head. His construction goes back to the '30th when 
he built up his first head for 500ccm singles. The last engines I know 
were prototypes for KTM and Rotax around '92. Between he made F2 
4cyl. 2lit., BMW sidecar racing- and other engines.
He also experimented with more than 4 valves, but his flowbench 
results for his radial-diametral head were much better than for any 
other concept. 
If anybody of you wants to construct a new head, :-) I can give you the
book-titles or ISBN, or some GIF's of his latest KTM-head. They 
rebuilt an LC4 engine with it, it makes more than 90HP out of 500 ccm...
There are also lots of easy theoretical and practical tips for every
motor-screwer included. Sorry- only in german language, I think.
Hans
hiha@ brain.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de
Munich / Germany

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 08:08:19 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'Arnaldo Echevarria'" <aec@ao.net>,
        "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: Ancient History (now fuel economy)
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 09:59:09 +-200
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As to the pressure in the manifold....

On the suck stroke... if you have HIGH DEPRESSION, the vacuum in the =
manifold tries to suck the descending piston up, or just plain doesn't =
help (grab a syringe, and see how hard it is to fill with water by =
pulling).

But, if turbo, or supercharge, or just plain acoustics is used to  get =
positive pressure in the manifold.. i.e. NEGATIVE depression, or comonly =
called pressure, this will (theoretically) help push the piston down the =
bore (now jam the syringe in the end of hose pipe, and the other end to =
the tap (faucet?)  you filled the bowl you were sucking from, and turn =
on the pressure (turbo), now dry yourself off, and go and find the =
plunger, cos that is probably the only accurate syringe you have for =
measuring head capacities).

Mark ;-)


----------
From:  Arnaldo Echevarria[SMTP:aec@ao.net]
Sent:  Tuesday, September 10, 1996 12:44 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  re: Ancient History (now fuel economy)


snip:

>The slower you spin the engine, then the higher the manifold pressure=20
>is for the same airflow (power), hence your pumping work (losses) is=20
>less.  Dropping the axle ratio (numerically) will give you benefits in=20
>fuel consumption at the same (road) speed simply because you have your=20
>foot on the throttle harder (strange but true! :)

Wait.  You said that the higher the manifold depresion, the higher the=20
power loss.  Now you say that the higher manifold pressure you get less =
pumping
work (ie better fuel economy)?? Now I'm really confused. Which is it?



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 08:08:20 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'SRavet@bangate.compaq.com'"
	 <SRavet@bangate.compaq.com>
Subject: RE: Re: hi compressions
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 09:32:54 +-200
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Valves kinda 'continually' grind themselves in... you would end up with =
an ill seated valve, that could wobble slightly in its hole, and =
eventually break its stem....=20

Mark


----------
From:  SRavet@bangate.compaq.com[SMTP:SRavet@bangate.compaq.com]
Sent:  Monday, September 09, 1996 5:08 PM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  re: Re: hi compressions

"Woodd, Michael" <wooddm@akcity.govt.nz> Wrote:
|=20
|=20
| Steve says...
|=20
| >This might be a dumb question, but why not non-circular valves?  I =
guess
| >they wouldn't be able to spin.  Is that a problem?  I can see corners =

being=20
|=20
| >bad, but what about a nice oval shape?
|=20
| >- --steve
|=20
| It should be possible to use two valve stems to stop it spinning.  =
What
| about making an oval valve with two stems at the, and machining an
| existing four valve head to have two oval valves?  You could use the
| existing valve guides.  Has this been tried before?  Could be tricky =
to
| make the valves, with two stems and all, but not impossible.

You could spline a single shaft to keep it from spinning also.  But, =
valves=20
rotate now by design, right?  Why, and what would happen to an oddly =
shaped=20
valve that couldn't rotate?

--steve


Steve Ravet
sravet@bangate.compaq.com
Baby you're a genius when it comes to cooking up some chili sauce...



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 08:22:00 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'DIY EFI'" <diy_efi>
Subject: Playing...
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 10:14:07 +-200
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Is ther any reason why I cant build my own mass meter wth some nichrome =
wire, and a foot of 6" drain pipe?

Cos what I've seen of them thats about it.

Plus a burn off circuit, and a bridge for doing the current measurement.

Like, I think the Idea is: Keep the current constant, measure the =
voltage across to get that current, have another bit of wire as a =
reference, and an absolute air temp/ atmospheric pressure reading, and =
away you go?


Yes... no ... who cares I got mine from the breakers....?
Any comments really?

(I'll even take 'Dont be stupid' for this one!)

Mark

;-)



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 08:26:58 1996
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From: M HILL <EAXMJHI@ean2.mecheng.nottingham.ac.uk>
Organization:  Mech Eng, University of Nottingham
To: diy_efi
Date:          Tue, 10 Sep 1996 09:23:09 GMT0BST
Subject:       Re: Ancient History
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> >Of course the ONLY rpm where torque, horsepower and VE could all peak at
> >the same time is at 5252 rpm.
> 
> I don't see how you arrive at this conclusion.  If you substitute 5252 for
> RPM in the above equation, all you get is the fact that HP must = Torque at
> this particular RPM.  This does not mean that they are all maximums at this
> RPM, only that they must be equal.  This should mean that regardless of the
> engine, the horsepower and torque curves should cross each other at 5250
> RPM.  I dug out some old HP Books editions like "How to Hotrod Smallblock
> Chevys" and perused some of the comparative "before + after" Dyno curves.  A
> few of them had torque and HP curves equal at 5250 RPM, but most didn't.
> Obviously, there are other factors at work here.
> 
I believe the point that is trying to be made is that if HP = Torque 
only at 5252 (which is agreed).  Then this is the only place where 
they CAN both be a maximum.  Not that they are a maximum.  But that 
this is the only point where they can both be a maximum at the same 
time.


Martin.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 09:52:12 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Water Injection for power?
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 02:43:45 -0700
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Remember the Reichstag

----------
> From: Thor Johnson <johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu>
> To: DIY EFI Maillist <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Subject: Water Injection for power?
> Date: Sunday, September 08, 1996 4:31 PM
> 
> 
> I just looked at the current issue of "Midnight Engineering," and saw an 
> article that may be of interest.  The author suggested that, instead of 
> the usual fan/radiator/et al, the cylinders be cooled by injecting water 
> (diesel style) during the latter part of the power stroke.  The H2O would

> flash into steam, thereby changing the heat (normally exhasted) into 
> mechanical power.
> 
Why bother?  The British in their pre-war experiments with water injection
directly injected the water in a fine mist into the inlet of the mechanical
supercharger of the Rolls Royce engine powering the spitfire.  At any 
reasonable injection rate  engine thermal loss's went down as the per cent
rate of water to fuel went up.  If memory serves me correctly at about 30
percent the engines water cooling was no longer a factor.  Methyl Alcohol
was added in a small percentage as an antifreeze - tis no such thing as a
warm day at 30,000+ feet altitude.

I Remember two relevant curves - holding fuel constant, power went up 
linearly with water on a percent by percent basis.  100% fuel 10% water, 
+ 10% power etc. until a practical limit of about 50% was reached.

Holding power constant, each percent of water displaced a percent of
fuel until about a 50 50 ratio was reached.

WTF does it work?  70% plus of chemical energy released by combustion
leaves the engine as excess heat.  Absorb any of that EXCESS heat and
turn water to steam and you gain either power or fuel economy or both.

PS   Ever wonder what is really going on during combustion.  Check the
pressure temp curves of the three major gasses present after combustion.
CO2, N2 and H2O.  Check out how much partial pressure each contributes
to the mix.  Then remember, that as a rough approximate, one gallon of
gasoline makes 2 gallons of water in the exhaust. 

PS  During the 70's phony gas crisis's a dozen different people came out
with aftermarket water injectors.  About eighty bucks for a windshield
washer
pump, bottle and some very crude controls worth maybe 10 bucks. All of 
them varied the pump with the RPM and used various gimmicks such as 
"air temp" sensing to separate you from your dollars.  You can do much
better just by sensing airflow, computed fuel flow and metering H2O to the
FUEL flow and simply varied the percentage until you are happy.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 09:52:15 1996
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From: walter.kaufmann@sd.id.ethz.ch (Walter Kaufmann)
Subject: Re: Oval Shaped Valves
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Hoi Hans,

kannst Du mir die ISBN-Nummer und den Titel vom Apfelbeckbuch geben?

Gruss und Dank
Walter



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 10:23:04 1996
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Date: Mon, 09 Sep 1996 05:59:00 +0000
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Water Injection for power?
To: diy_efi
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Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059
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-> article that may be of interest.  The author suggested that, instead
-> of the usual fan/radiator/et al, the cylinders be cooled by injecting
-> water (diesel style) during the latter part of the power stroke.  The
-> H2O would flash into steam, thereby changing the heat (normally
-> exhasted) into mechanical power.

 Direct-to-cylinder cooling has been used on some large Diesels.  Worked
okay, as far as I know.

 "Six stroke" engines have also been built, with water injected after
the exhaust stroke.  The water flashes to steam, provides a little extra
kick, and cools the cylinder.

 Either scheme requires a large supply of water, approximately as much
by volume as the fuel supply, making such things awkward for motor
vehicles, though it's no big deal in stationary installations.
                         

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 10:23:07 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: water injection; and methanol
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 03:15:33 -0700
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Remember the Reichstag

----------
> From: RD Rick <rickydik@ix.netcom.com>
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: water injection; and methanol
> Date: Saturday, September 07, 1996 7:52 AM
> 
> >...
> >He also suggested that mixing up to 50% methanol with the water helped 
> >improved its volatility.  
> >Jim Steck
> 
> Word of warning.  I have read that methanol is very corrosive to metal 
> parts, while ethanol is not.  I don't know if ethanol will work in that 
> application. 
> 
Pre - EPA, every good gadget-addict has an oil-mist vaporizor to provide
upper engine and valve lubrication.  This manifold vacuum operated glass
tank sucked up a small "highly vaporized" mist thru a fish tank bubbler
in the intake.  You purchased the special lubricating oil for only $5 a
pint,
and blended it with "pure" water or if it was cold, a thin blend of
windshield
wiper fluid and water.  And then there was water pump lubricant, only a 
buck fifty a bottle and guaranteed to blend with all coolants and 
lubricate
your pump bearings.    

In both cases, the operating agent was plain old cutting oil - yep the
white
slushy stuff you see in every machine shop.  Couple of tables spoons white
stuff, some food coloring or if its the good stuff - just enuff antifreeze
to give
the pint of water this concoction was in a green coloring, a fancy yellow
bottle
and 10,000 % profit can be yours.
 
Seriously, industrial strength meth has 15% petroleum to counter the
corrosion
problem.  Since cutting oil is a water soluble lubricant and protectant, if
you
blended a couple tablespoons into your water/meth mix, you would greatly
reduce the corrosion and you would get the benefits of a "highly vaporized 
upper cylinder lubricator" also

When you read alcohol in automotive applications, replace it with methanol
and you will be both historically and currently correct.  The only time
ethanol
is considered is if you have no access to meth or you are co-operating with
congress in supporting the farm lobby.

Meth has higher octane, produces more power in REAL engines, is
significantly
cheaper and is much less polluting.



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 12:08:05 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Playing...
In-Reply-To: <01BB9F00.D1B5F580@speed.demon.nl>
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On Tue, 10 Sep 1996, Mark Pitts wrote:

> Is ther any reason why I cant build my own mass meter wth some nichrome
wire, and a foot of 6" drain pipe? > > Cos what I've seen of them thats
about it. 

You sure could, but you;d have to calibrate it to your engine and your FI.


****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 12:13:38 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'Hans Hintermaier'"
	 <HIHA@GNF99M.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de>
Subject: RE: Oval Shaped Valves
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 11:19:53 +-200
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Be interesting to see a few pictures...

Mark

----------
From:  Hans Hintermaier[SMTP:HIHA@GNF99M.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de]
Sent:  Tuesday, September 10, 1996 11:13 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Oval Shaped Valves


Hi all,
I own some books of "Apfelbeck", his philosophy was the "radial 
diametral" 4 valve head. His construction goes back to the '30th when 
he built up his first head for 500ccm singles. The last engines I know 
were prototypes for KTM and Rotax around '92. Between he made F2 
4cyl. 2lit., BMW sidecar racing- and other engines.
He also experimented with more than 4 valves, but his flowbench 
results for his radial-diametral head were much better than for any 
other concept. 
If anybody of you wants to construct a new head, :-) I can give you the
book-titles or ISBN, or some GIF's of his latest KTM-head. They 
rebuilt an LC4 engine with it, it makes more than 90HP out of 500 ccm...
There are also lots of easy theoretical and practical tips for every
motor-screwer included. Sorry- only in german language, I think.
Hans
hiha@ brain.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de
Munich / Germany



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 12:32:54 1996
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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Ancient History
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>> Do these numbers really bother anyone?  12mpg highway for a 455? I mean,
>> I've read about 46-48mpg from a turbo v-6; 28-30mpg from 5.7L z/28's,
>> and 31mpg from 5.0L mustangs.  While I don't believe any of them; 
>
>[snip]
>
>You better believe it: when driving from Dallas to memphis, speed range 70 mph
>to 95 mph, I got 27.5 mpg. Most of the tankful was driving at 80mph. A friend 
>in a '95 Trans Am that made the trip with me had a best of 28.5 (his engine was
>more broken in, mine was fresh at 2k miles). 
>

When I asked this question, I was not impugning anyone's honor -- hope
it wasn't taken that way.  I just want the formula!  (The best story I
have is averaging ~80 MPH from CT to TX and averaging 24 mpg in '88
towncar ==> 302 with 3800 pounds.  But that was not normal.)

Tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 12:36:29 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'Dave Williams'" <dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us>,
        "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: Water Injection for power?
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 14:10:46 +-200
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Hey guys... did ya know that hover time of the Harrier Jump Jet (AV8b ?) =
is limited by water, as needs to inject water to get the density up =
enough to produce enough thrust to hover (remember that this engine has =
no afterburners or anything.

Just kinda interesting... wonder what their fuel injection system does =
in the flame tubes? They must need to richen/lean out the flame (when =
spinning up and down on shaft RPM)=20

Completely off track, and thinking out loud. Sorry! ;-)


Mark



----------
From:  Dave Williams[SMTP:dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us]
Sent:  Monday, September 09, 1996 7:59 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Water Injection for power?


-> article that may be of interest.  The author suggested that, instead
-> of the usual fan/radiator/et al, the cylinders be cooled by injecting
-> water (diesel style) during the latter part of the power stroke.  The
-> H2O would flash into steam, thereby changing the heat (normally
-> exhasted) into mechanical power.

 Direct-to-cylinder cooling has been used on some large Diesels.  Worked
okay, as far as I know.

 "Six stroke" engines have also been built, with water injected after
the exhaust stroke.  The water flashes to steam, provides a little extra
kick, and cools the cylinder.

 Either scheme requires a large supply of water, approximately as much
by volume as the fuel supply, making such things awkward for motor
vehicles, though it's no big deal in stationary installations.
                        =20



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 12:36:32 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'Walter Kaufmann'"
	 <walter.kaufmann@sd.id.ethz.ch>
Subject: RE: Oval Shaped Valves
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 14:15:56 +-200
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You what????????

Mark ;-)


----------
From:  Walter Kaufmann[SMTP:walter.kaufmann@sd.id.ethz.ch]
Sent:  Tuesday, September 10, 1996 11:42 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Re: Oval Shaped Valves

Hoi Hans,

kannst Du mir die ISBN-Nummer und den Titel vom Apfelbeckbuch geben?

Gruss und Dank
Walter





From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 12:44:39 1996
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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
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>>> 
>>> But diesel injection needs around 25,000 psi of fuel pressure, 
>>
>>Aaah, I see why "EFI diesels" are only recently appearing. Do they
>>really use 25000 PSI?? I thought it would only be a few hundred PSI.
>>
I questioned this too -- asked a diesel mechanic who said pressure
was 1700 to 1800 with upper limit of 2700.  Maybe above figure has
one too many zeroes  (I can tell you I used to work in very high
pressure area of a chemical plant and the 27000 number is W-A-Y out
of line!).

Tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 12:49:49 1996
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On Tue, 10 Sep 1996 10:12:26 est, RABBITT_Andrew@mv8.orbeng.com.au
wrote:

>X-Ceo_Options: Document
>
>begin 660 ceomail.msd
>M/CY)9B!Y;W4@8VAO;W-E('1O(')U;B!A(#0P,"MC:60@96YG:6YE+"!T:&5N
>M('1O('!R;V1U8V4@=&AE('-O<G0@;V8@#0H^/G!O=V5R(&YE8V5S<V%R>2!F

What's this ??


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 13:16:53 1996
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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
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>Is ther any reason why I cant build my own mass meter wth some nichrome
wire, and a foot of 6" drain pipe?
>
 [ snip ]

>Like, I think the Idea is: Keep the current constant, measure the voltage
across to get that current, have another bit of wire as a reference, and an
absolute air temp/ atmospheric pressure reading, and away you go?
>
Okay, can I speculate too??  I know that liquid and gas measurements
have been made by using a heated wire (or thermocouple).  The concept
was to use two of them.  One a reference and the other in the flow.
Measure the temp of each and the difference is proportional to the flow.
If the same current passes through both wires (or 'both' is actually
the same wire), any error from heating current variation ought to be
lessened.

Bye-the-bye; to get a constant current, one would not want to measure
the voltage across nichrome, as it changes resistance with temperature
(e.g. air flow).  The voltage you measure, with the current constant,
would therefore be related to air flow.  If you were to take two pieces
of NiCr, say 1" long each (and very thin, say 30 AWG).  Put one in
the air flow and the other where it is cooled by only convection
(where?).  Wire them in series and measure the difference in the
voltage dropped across each of them??

Tom



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 13:21:19 1996
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 09:10:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: Thor Johnson <johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Water Injection for power?
In-Reply-To: <1369799007-11870179@uia.net>
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On Tue, 10 Sep 1996, Robert J. Harris wrote:

> > From: Thor Johnson <johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu>
> > To: DIY EFI Maillist <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> > Subject: Water Injection for power?
> > Date: Sunday, September 08, 1996 4:31 PM
> > 
> > 
> > I just looked at the current issue of "Midnight Engineering," and saw an 
> > article that may be of interest.  The author suggested that, instead of 
> > the usual fan/radiator/et al, the cylinders be cooled by injecting water 
> > (diesel style) during the latter part of the power stroke.  The H2O would
> 
> > flash into steam, thereby changing the heat (normally exhasted) into 
> > mechanical power.
> > 
> Why bother?  The British in their pre-war experiments with water injection
> directly injected the water in a fine mist into the inlet of the mechanical
> supercharger of the Rolls Royce engine powering the spitfire.  At any 
> reasonable injection rate  engine thermal loss's went down as the per cent
> rate of water to fuel went up.  If memory serves me correctly at about 30
> percent the engines water cooling was no longer a factor.  Methyl Alcohol
> was added in a small percentage as an antifreeze - tis no such thing as a
> warm day at 30,000+ feet altitude.

> I Remember two relevant curves - holding fuel constant, power went up 
> linearly with water on a percent by percent basis.  100% fuel 10% water, 
> + 10% power etc. until a practical limit of about 50% was reached.

  So I could inject water at the intake manifold without losing power 
while maintiang the cooling effect?  Good to know, cuz I don't want to 
actually pull the engine to pieces.  Slightly unrelated question: does 
anyone know how this would affect *heated* O2 sensors?

Thanks!
                Thor Johnson
       johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu
   http://falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu/~johnsont
                                                    
         Have you seen the WarpMap lately?                    
 http://falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu/~johnsont/warpmap  



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 13:34:21 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: more water injection
In-Reply-To: <199609031634.AA29699@internet-mail2.ford.com>
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OK, here's a really dumb (but interesting to me) question: If water 
injection is so great, why is water in the gas considered so bad? Why 
bother with products like "dry gas" if water in the cylinders is a good 
thing? Why do most engines run so bad (I think) when there's water mixed 
in with the gas in the tank? 

I can understand the freezing bit in winter, which could be cured with 
added alcohol of glycol, but if water injection is so good, it seems that 
you could save yourself a bunch of hassle by just adding water to the gas 
in the gas tank. Is it possible that you only want water injection under 
certain circumstances, like WOT? If so, then I could understand the need 
for dry gas and a separate water injection system. Otherwise, what's the 
deal?


****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 14:24:27 1996
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 10:24:56 -0600 (EDT)
From: Frank Parker <fparker@umich.edu>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Water Injection for power?
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> 
>   So I could inject water at the intake manifold without losing power 
> while maintiang the cooling effect?  Good to know, cuz I don't want to 
> actually pull the engine to pieces.  Slightly unrelated question: does 
> anyone know how this would affect *heated* O2 sensors?
> 
> Thanks!
>                 Thor Johnson
>        johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu
>    http://falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu/~johnsont
> 
Should not be a problem. Complete combustion of hydrocarbons gives
CO2 and H2O. Only problem I have seen is some special O2 sensors for
measuring a/f have a limit on temp change rate and thus have time delays
built into the electronics so that when the engine is started, the power is
delayed to heater circuit of O2 sensor so any liquid water from condensation
etc does not get on hot sensor and thus exceed is degC/time limits.Power
is applied after about 30 sec delay. This is true of Bosch LA-2 a/f meter
using LSM-11 sensor.
Standard automotive sensors try to heat asap so can go to closed loop asap.
Biggest area of current emmissions study is how to reduce early cold start
emissions. Trying such things as phase change salt solutions to hold heat.

Frank Parker



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 14:33:15 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'tom cloud'" <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>,
        "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: Fuel Economy
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 16:18:31 +-200
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It's that start of a UU encoded file called CEOMAIL.MSD

For those that are interested... UUEncode is this:

Take 3 bytes
lay it out as 24 bits
chop 24 bits into 4 6 bit lumps
treat each of those 6 bits as an ascii character.

This way the data can be sent over any line, including 7 bit systems.


Mark



----------
From:  tom cloud[SMTP:cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu]
Sent:  Tuesday, September 10, 1996 2:42 PM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  re: Fuel Economy

On Tue, 10 Sep 1996 10:12:26 est, RABBITT_Andrew@mv8.orbeng.com.au
wrote:

>X-Ceo_Options: Document
>
>begin 660 ceomail.msd
>M/CY)9B!Y;W4@8VAO;W-E('1O(')U;B!A(#0P,"MC:60@96YG:6YE+"!T:&5N
>M('1O('!R;V1U8V4@=&AE('-O<G0@;V8@#0H^/G!O=V5R(&YE8V5S<V%R>2!F

What's this ??




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 14:35:08 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'tom cloud'" <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>,
        "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: Ancient History
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 16:21:42 +-200
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Hey guys... I feel PROUD when I manage to thrash my car UNDER 20MPG... =
to achive less that 25 MPG requires new tires at the end of the run! Its =
a real shame only having 1.5 litres (but my body weight is so low I =
still get performance enough to scare me down the little lanes).

Mark


----------
From:  tom cloud[SMTP:cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu]
Sent:  Tuesday, September 10, 1996 2:23 PM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Re: Ancient History

>> Do these numbers really bother anyone?  12mpg highway for a 455? I =
mean,
>> I've read about 46-48mpg from a turbo v-6; 28-30mpg from 5.7L z/28's,
>> and 31mpg from 5.0L mustangs.  While I don't believe any of them;=20
>
>[snip]
>
>You better believe it: when driving from Dallas to memphis, speed range =
70 mph
>to 95 mph, I got 27.5 mpg. Most of the tankful was driving at 80mph. A =
friend=20
>in a '95 Trans Am that made the trip with me had a best of 28.5 (his =
engine was
>more broken in, mine was fresh at 2k miles).=20
>

When I asked this question, I was not impugning anyone's honor -- hope
it wasn't taken that way.  I just want the formula!  (The best story I
have is averaging ~80 MPH from CT to TX and averaging 24 mpg in '88
towncar =3D=3D> 302 with 3800 pounds.  But that was not normal.)

Tom




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 14:45:49 1996
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 10:35:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Michael T. Kasimirsky" <mtk@tmc.astm.cmri.cmu.edu>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: more water injection
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On Tue, 10 Sep 1996, Dirk Wright wrote:

> OK, here's a really dumb (but interesting to me) question: If water 
> injection is so great, why is water in the gas considered so bad? Why 
> bother with products like "dry gas" if water in the cylinders is a good 
> thing? Why do most engines run so bad (I think) when there's water mixed 
> in with the gas in the tank? 
> 
> I can understand the freezing bit in winter, which could be cured with 
> added alcohol of glycol, but if water injection is so good, it seems that 
> you could save yourself a bunch of hassle by just adding water to the gas 
> in the gas tank. Is it possible that you only want water injection under 
> certain circumstances, like WOT? If so, then I could understand the need 
> for dry gas and a separate water injection system. Otherwise, what's the 
> deal?

Gasoline is lighter than water, and hence "floats" on top of it.  You 
fuel tank pick-up is located in the bottom of the tank.  You add water to 
the tank and all you'll be injecting into the engine is water.  

Michael T. Kasimirsky       ---->              mtk@tmc.astm.cmri.cmu.edu
Days:    Staff Engineer                     or mk4u@andrew.cmu.edu
         ASTM Test Monitoring Center		Phi Gamma Delta,
Nights:  1992 Suzuki GSX-R750 Pilot		NRA Life Member, AMA Member
         1991 Suzuki GSF400 Bandit Mechanic	DoD #1848

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 14:50:17 1996
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 07:46:35 -0700
To: diy_efi
From: Jeff Deifik <jdeifik@weasel.com>
Subject: Re: Electric vehicle , wrong list for this discussion, but I
  must
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Jerry Wills writes:
>Folks,
>	One person is already doing some of what you would like.
>
>good acceleration , 0-60 in the 4 sec. range

7 sec range, or 4.5 sec range, see below.

>motors drive all wheels directly

Through a trans. Either FWD or RWD

>regenerative braking
>
>for long distance a small trailer , just big enough for a stationary gas 
>generator, which yields 40ish mpg.
>
>the battery technology is the problem at the moment
>The car started out as a honda, and still looks like it on the outside,
>but not under the hood. The guy name is Alan ?????, our former sunracer
>my know his last name and company, or I can find out. He was a consultant
>to GM for a while. Email me directly if you must have more info.

Jerry got most of his information from me.

I have driven or been a passanger in three generations of Alan Coconni's cars.
His company is called AC Propulsion.

He designed and built the electronics and motors for the GM Impact as well as
the Sunnyraycer.

Genertaion 1 (after Impact) 100 kw honda crx. 0-60 7.8 seconds, top speed @90
mph, 131 miles on a charge (using EPA loop) @3000 lbs, FWD

Generation 2 150kw (@200hp) honda VX. 0-60 @6sec, top speed @90 mph, range
@140 miles @3000lbs, FWD

Generation 3 220hp, built on limited production sportscar chassis 0-60 @4.5sec,
top speed @90mph, weight @2500lbs, RWD

Gen 1 & 2 use a honda transmission, with only one gear present.
Gen 3 uses an unknown transmission, with only one gear present,

Gen 1 battery life 3k miles to 50% capacity.
Gen 2 & 3 battery like @20k miles.
I used to sell his 1/2 used batteries...

Charging time 1 hour minimum.

        Jeff turbo Deifik       turbo@weasel.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 15:20:43 1996
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From: M HILL <EAXMJHI@ean2.mecheng.nottingham.ac.uk>
Organization:  Mech Eng, University of Nottingham
To: diy_efi
Date:          Tue, 10 Sep 1996 16:04:16 GMT0BST
Subject:       Re: more water injection
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> Date:          Tue, 10 Sep 1996 09:23:55 -0400 (EDT)
> From:          Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
> To:            diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:       more water injection
> Reply-to:      diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

> OK, here's a really dumb (but interesting to me) question: If water 
> injection is so great, why is water in the gas considered so bad? Why 
> bother with products like "dry gas" if water in the cylinders is a good 
> thing? Why do most engines run so bad (I think) when there's water mixed 
> in with the gas in the tank? 
> 
> I can understand the freezing bit in winter, which could be cured with 
> added alcohol of glycol, but if water injection is so good, it seems that 
> you could save yourself a bunch of hassle by just adding water to the gas 
> in the gas tank. Is it possible that you only want water injection under 
> certain circumstances, like WOT? If so, then I could understand the need 
> for dry gas and a separate water injection system. Otherwise, what's the 
> deal?
> 
> 
> ****************************************************************************
> Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
> "I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
> "A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
> ****************************************************************************
> 
> 
I am led to believe that the reason you do not want water in the 
petrol tank is that water is heavier than petrol, and will therefore 
sit at the bottom of the tank and make it go rusty.  You are unlikely 
to get the water mixed up with the petrol.  I do not know much about 
the products used to remove water from the petrol tank, but I imagine 
they just make it all mix up together.  Thus enabling it to be pumped 
out of the petrol tank.

Martin

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 16:02:45 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: more water injection
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 08:47:49 -0700
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Remember the Reichstag

----------
> From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: more water injection
> Date: Tuesday, September 10, 1996 6:23 AM
> 
> OK, here's a really dumb (but interesting to me) question: If water 
> injection is so great, why is water in the gas considered so bad? Why 
> bother with products like "dry gas" if water in the cylinders is a good 
> thing? Why do most engines run so bad (I think) when there's water mixed 
> in with the gas in the tank? 
> 
Simple chemistry.   Water and gasoline do not mix - they blend.  Let them
sit for even a few seconds and they separate - remember the lava lamps -
illustrates the separation perfectly.  A pump drawing a blend would have
totally unpredictable results.  And since petrol floats on water, one would
tend to pick up more water than gas and this would not make reliable 
power.  Remember, water only works with EXCESS heat - and contributes
no heat to the process.  No heateee - no tickee - no shirtee..

Further, gasoline blends easily with air to form a combustible mixture.
Water is far more reluctant to blend with air at STP, so it needs to be
atomizing into a fine mist by pressure injection.  Different fluids,
different
process's and storage.  Think Nitrous Oxide.  One would not doubt that
vast increases in power are made on the bottle - but you don't toss it
in the tank and get results.  One respects the chemistry of each 
component and use's that to get results.

What one is looking for is a correct mixture in the combustion chamber.
Just because Oil and Vinegar taste great on salad does not mean that 
we store the blend together.



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 17:23:58 1996
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 11:02:32 MST
From: DAN FURGASON <furgason@hg.uleth.ca>
To: DIY_EFI
Message-ID: <009A8290.079F43AE.1972@hg.uleth.ca>
Subject: Al Tubing Bender
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Last spring Dan Elsberg of Cornell made mention of a tubing bender he had
designed and fabricated. He e-mailed me a discription and asked me to forward
it to the list. 

Dan Elsberg wrote: 

Sorry it took me several months to get back to you about the tube bender.
I was way busy during the school year, but have now graduated and can put
down some basic directions.  (I am no longer on the DIY-EFI list, but if
you could forward this to the list, I would appreciate it.)

The tube bender is basically the exact same thing as one of the small hand
brake line benders.  There needs to be a round mandril which fits half of
the tube in it.  The diameter of this mandril will define the diameter of
the 'u's that you bend.  We made this by rough cutting a piece of mild
steel on the lathe.  (Take a piece of round stock, chuck it up, cut in a
semicircle gouge that is "one radius of the tubing that you want to bend"
deep.)  This should be close to the final round shape, but not any deeper.
Then take a ball end mill of the same diameter as your tubing and put the
mandril piece on a dividing head and finish cutting the semi-circle groove
to the perfect shape.  Make sure you run the mill at the slowest speed to
begin with and go slowly.  Once the tip starts cutting, you are asking
everything to do some hard work-- things will wobble and make a lot of
noise and smoke.  Next we cut the mandril off from the excess length of
stock.  Then we drilled four holes in the mandril through the flat sides to
fit the lever arm into and reamed one hole in the middle for the
pivot/axle.

The outside or smaller mandril was made from a half piece of tubing that
was bent out a bit to fit around the aluminum to be bent.  It was welded to
a few pieces of plate to make a box shaped assembly that had room for a
hole in order to attach it to the base plate of the bender.

The next piece was a base plate (we used 1/2" thick steel).  We drilled and
reamed two holes in it for the pivots of the two mandril pieces.  The
spacing should be relatively accurate so that when the two mandrils fit
together, there is a perfect circle (otherwise the aluminum will squish out
the gap.)  The outside mandril should actually meet the inside mandril at a
point.  One corner will be right against the inside circle and the part
will trail off on a tangent.
                          __
                         /  \
                      _ ( () ) <----inside mandril (a circle)

  outside mandril--> | | \__/
                     | |
                     |_|

                    Top View (correct)


                      _   __
                     | | /  \
                     | |( () ) <----inside mandril (a circle)

  outside mandril--> |_| \__/


                    Top View (incorrect)

These drawings are not to scale-- the inside mandril is much larger that
the outside mandril.

Finally you need to make something that will pull the tubing around the
inside mandril as it is bent.  On the hand benders this is made of several
pieces of plate held together and pivots in and out of the plane of the
u-bends.  This will take a lot of force so make it beefy.  This piece bolts
to the inside mandril.

The aluminum will have to be normalized to take it down to T0.  I think
that dillsburg or other folks sell tubing that is already soft, but we had
to put our 6061-T6 pieces in an oven and treat them.  (I don't remember the
recipe, but you can look it up in a metals or heat treating handbook.)  It
is all just easier if you buy the right stuff to begin with.  I have been
told that the aluminum will actually time harden back up to somewhere
between T0 and T6, but I don't know how long this takes or any details.

Now assemble the parts on the base plate using round stock as the
pivots/axles (we used 1" mild steel).  Fashion yourself a lever arm that
can drop into the holes drilled in the inside mandril (goes into two holes
at a time).  The lever should be about 6 feet long.

Lube everything up with WD40 and place the aluminum tube in so that the
part that pulls the tube around is lined flat against the outside mandril.
The tube should stick about an inch past the end of the pulling part.  Turn
the inside mandril with the lever arm and it will pull the aluminum around
and bend it as it goes.  You will have to experiment with the exact
placements of all the parts, because the aluminum is prone to locally
buckling and flatening.

Sorry that this may be a little hard to follow, but you really should buy
one of the brake line benders to get an idea of how this really works.  The
whole thing took us about 2 weeks to manufacture and tune.  There is also
about 60 to 80 pounds worth of steel between the mandril, the base plate,
and the scrap left on the shop floor.

I mentioned this several months ago, but if anyone wants to purchase some
U's we would be willing to figure out a reasonable price-- the shops we
found who were willing to do it wanted some outrageous price for it.

(Just found the email I sent out months ago:
We got tired of the high prices and low availability of Aluminum u-bends so
we made a mandril bender.  It was a _lot_ of work.  (about a week of
machining and then another couple of days playing around with the
technique.)  Anyway if anyone needs 1-3/8"x0.058 we may be able to work
something out that would be a lot cheaper than the estimates we got from
various other sources (one wanted $275 to bend 6 semi-circles (180 degrees)
including the labor and material).  E-mail me directly if you want to talk
about it.
)

Good luck and happy machining,
--dan

--
Dan Elsberg                                                dhe1@cornell.edu
203 Williams St. Apt. 1                                            277-9503
Ithaca, NY  14850




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 17:29:22 1996
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Subject: O2 Sensor-Leaded gas
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Is the O2 sensor affected by leaded gas or is it just the cat conv?  me
***************************************************************************
* Mark Eidson                        Voice: (602)752-6513                 *
* Staff Design Engineer                Fax: (602)752-6000                 *
* Manager System Integration and                                          *
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: more water injection
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On Tue, 10 Sep 1996, M HILL wrote:
> > 
> I am led to believe that the reason you do not want water in the 
> petrol tank is that water is heavier than petrol, and will therefore 
> sit at the bottom of the tank and make it go rusty.  You are unlikely 
> to get the water mixed up with the petrol.  I do not know much about 
> the products used to remove water from the petrol tank, but I imagine 
> they just make it all mix up together.  Thus enabling it to be pumped 
> out of the petrol tank.

OK, assume that the tank is rust-proof (sealed on the inside), and that 
the water is mixed thoroughly with the gas using some type of alcohol, 
and that the fuel system can tolerate both the water and the alcohol, 
would this give you more power and/or economy? You could assume distilled 
water is used, also, if you wish.


****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 18:53:54 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: more water injection
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On Tue, 10 Sep 1996, Michael T. Kasimirsky wrote:
> 
> Gasoline is lighter than water, and hence "floats" on top of it.  You 
> fuel tank pick-up is located in the bottom of the tank.  You add water to 
> the tank and all you'll be injecting into the engine is water.  

OK, but what if you add enough alcohol to disperse the water into the 
gasoline? Would you get better performance? It has been recommended that 
some type of alcohol be added to the water in a water injection system, 
so why bother with the separate system and just mix it all up in the gas 
tank? I'm assuming that the type of alcohol used would be compatable with 
the fuel system.

Is it just an issue of control over when the water is injected?
****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 18:58:39 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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Subject: Re: more water injection
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On Tue, 10 Sep 1996, Robert J. Harris wrote:
> 
> Further, gasoline blends easily with air to form a combustible mixture.
> Water is far more reluctant to blend with air at STP, so it needs to be
> atomizing into a fine mist by pressure injection.  Different fluids,
> different
> process's and storage.  

OK, what if we added alcohol to disperse the water into the gas, and the 
engine had fuel injection. The gas and the water would be atomized 
together. Would this give more power? 

The only reason I can see for using a separate system would be for 
control over exactly when the water was injected. But, how critical is 
the timing of the water injection? Assuming a constant water/gas ratio, 
in the above senario, more water/gas mixture would be injected during 
periods of high power, so more water would get in to the cylinders 
anyway. 

> 
> What one is looking for is a correct mixture in the combustion chamber.
> Just because Oil and Vinegar taste great on salad does not mean that 
> we store the blend together.

Um, we usually store them together when they are intended as a salad 
dressing....

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 19:52:33 1996
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From: Markus Strobl <eusmsrt@exu.ericsson.se>
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 14:39:53 -0500
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To: diy_efi
Subject: RE: Ancient History
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> Its =
> a real shame only having 1.5 litres (but my body weight is so low I =
> still get performance enough to scare me down the little lanes).
> 
> Mark

I thought having *negative* body weight was in violation of the laws of
physics? 

:-)


-------

Markus '96 Z28 w/ mods. Proof that OBDII is not the end of performance.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 20:04:42 1996
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From: Markus Strobl <eusmsrt@exu.ericsson.se>
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 14:52:55 -0500
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: O2 Sensor-Leaded gas
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> Is the O2 sensor affected by leaded gas or is it just the cat conv?  me
> ***************************************************************************
> * Mark Eidson                        Voice: (602)752-6513                 *

The O2 sensor will fail. Not after the first tankful but within a few months.
The Cat will get clogged both with lead and also with soot since the O2 sensor
will start sending weird data to the PCM/ECM.

Markus

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 21:53:02 1996
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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 21:53:02 1996
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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 22:28:39 1996
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From: "Woodd, Michael" <wooddm@akcity.govt.nz>
Organization: Auckland City
To: diy_efi (diy_efi)
Subject: re: Re: hi compressions
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>You could spline a single shaft to keep it from spinning also.  But, valves 

>rotate now by design, right?  Why, and what would happen to an oddly shaped 

>valve that couldn't rotate?

>- --steve

I guess your thinking that cos valves rotate, that they more or less 
self-lap
themselves to ensure a continued seal over a longer period of time.
Probably right too, I guess only experimentation would show to what
extent.

Mike

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 22:28:39 1996
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 06:52:00 +0000
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: re: Re: hi compressions
To: diy_efi
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Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059
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-> Well there are a few engines out there that have valves that DON'T
-> rotate.  These are the old Boss engines from Ford (302,351 and the
-> 429). These valves are held in place by keepers that pinch the valve
-> stem (ie the keepers don't butt against eachother).

 Actually, the vast majority of engines are like this.  Engines with
valves free to rotate are the exception.

====dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us========================DoD#978=======
  can you help me...help me get out of this place?...slow sedation...
ain't my style, ain't my pace...giving me a number...NINE, SEVEN, EIGHT
==5.0 RX7 -> Tyrannosaurus RX! == SAE '82 == Denizens of Doom M/C '92==
                              

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 23:24:04 1996
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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: more water injection
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>> OK, here's a really dumb (but interesting to me) question: If water 
>> injection is so great, why is water in the gas considered so bad? 

   [ snip ]

>I am led to believe that the reason you do not want water in the 
>petrol tank is that water is heavier than petrol, and will therefore 
>sit at the bottom of the tank and make it go rusty.  

   [ snip ]

good grief!  water and gas don't mix!!!  that's why the water has to
be squirted in whilst the intake is open.  adding methanol, isopropanol,
or ethanol doesn't get rid of water in the tank and fuel lines, it allows
the water to dissolve into the alcohol / gasoline mixture (I think
it's called 'miscible' in chemistry class).

tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 23:33:37 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: Arnaldo Echevarria <aec@ao.net>
Subject: Re: Water Injection for power?
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>I Remember two relevant curves - holding fuel constant, power went up 
>linearly with water on a percent by percent basis.  100% fuel 10% water, 
>+ 10% power etc. until a practical limit of about 50% was reached.
>
>Holding power constant, each percent of water displaced a percent of
>fuel until about a 50 50 ratio was reached.

So if I went out to my car and fed my 455ci engine a 50/50 mix of water/
fuel I'd get the same power?  I have a hard time believing this at full
throttle - plus I cant afford that much water :(, but will it work for part
throttle, ie cruising, speeds?  
I think I can get around the mineral buildups with a weekly trip to the track
w/ high octane gas.....

>WTF does it work?  70% plus of chemical energy released by combustion
>leaves the engine as excess heat.  Absorb any of that EXCESS heat and
>turn water to steam and you gain either power or fuel economy or both.

But won't the added water particles reduce the ability to create a complete
combustion?
>
>PS   Ever wonder what is really going on during combustion.  Check the
>pressure temp curves of the three major gasses present after combustion.
>CO2, N2 and H2O.  Check out how much partial pressure each contributes
>to the mix.  Then remember, that as a rough approximate, one gallon of
>gasoline makes 2 gallons of water in the exhaust. 

That much water comes out of my tailpipe?

Arnaldo


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 10 23:43:21 1996
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From: jac@wave.sheridan.wy.us
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 96 17:17:03 PDT
Subject: water injection
To: diy_efi
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Within the last few months I read an article about recent 
efforts to perfect an agent to maintain naptha and water 
as a stable colloid. In addition to being useful as a 
fuel, the criteria for acceptability include multiple 
transitions from high to low temperatures without 
separation. 

The magazine may have been MACHINE DESIGN.  I believe that 
the University of Arizona and Caterpillar were both 
mentioned.  

Did any one else see the article?  I would like to read it 
again. 

John Carroll
-------------------------------------
jac@wave.sheridan.wy.us
 09/10/96 17:17:03




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To: diy_efi
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: interesting web site
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Check out http://reality.sgi.com/employees/rck/PhOR/01-Weight-Transfer.html

It is a series of pages written by Brian Beckman on auto handling.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 01:14:50 1996
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Subject: re: Fuel Economy
To: diy_efi
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 08:54:22 +0800 (WST)
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>>If you choose to run a 400+cid engine, then to produce the sort of 
>>power necessary for cruising (10-20 hp), you will be running 
>>relatively low manifold pressures compared to a smaller engine 
>>producing the same power.  Remember, the manifold depression is 
>>un-recovered, therfore represents a power loss.  
>
>At the same RPM? Could you clarify this? 

Exactly! at the same RPM

>An engine requires a minimum a/f ratio to overcome frictional losses, 
>keep inertia (accel=0), and move the drivetrain 

not a/f ratio, this is constant at 14.7 or so, but a minimum fuelling 
level, or fuel flow rate (= power)

>The manifold pressure is just a function of the throttle position and the rpm, 
>not of the load, at least I don't think. 

Manifold pressure is the best measure of load (aside from direct airflow 
measurement).  That's why many people in the world use MAP sensors.

>>The slower you spin the engine, then the higher the manifold pressure 
>>is for the same airflow (power), hence your pumping work (losses) is 
>>less.  Dropping the axle ratio (numerically) will give you benefits in 
>>fuel consumption at the same (road) speed simply because you have your 
>>foot on the throttle harder (strange but true! :)
>
>Wait.  You said that the higher the manifold depresion, the higher the 
>power loss.  Now you say that the higher manifold pressure you get less pumping
>work (ie better fuel economy)?? Now I'm really confused. Which is it?

It's both! (I must apologise for the confusing choice of words) When I say 
manifold pressure, I mean Absolute Pressure, however manifold depression is 
measured relative to atmospheric pressure which is 101.325 kPa Absolute.  
Depression/Vacuum and Absolute pressure are effectively the inverse of each 
other.

>
>OK then you say that dropping your axle ratio gives you better gas mileage,
>which I agree (when I went from a 2.79:1 final drive ratio to a 2.05:1 ratio on a 305 
>I went from 16 to 21.5MPG).  But then you say it is because you have your foot 
>on the throttle harder? No way.  On that same car I remember barely touching
>the gas when cruising at 75mph (about 2000rpm or so) when before I would have to get
>on it at least 3/8 pedal.
>

OK, throttles are notoriously non-linear devices, and the characteristics at
2000 rpm are not the same as at 2720 rpm, therefore maybe you did have your
foot less on the 'gas' but I bet your manifold pressure was higher (or your 
manifold depression/vacuum less!)




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 01:19:34 1996
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 09:05:46 est
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re; Ancient History
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>I believe the point that is trying to be made is that if HP = Torque 
>only at 5252 (which is agreed).  Then this is the only place where 
>they CAN both be a maximum.  Not that they are a maximum.  But that 
>this is the only point where they can both be a maximum at the same 
>time.

OK, now try the calculation in kW and N.m and see if you come to the 
same conclusion!




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 01:19:34 1996
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 09:03:28 est
To: diy_efi
Subject: re: re: Propane Injectors
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>>>> 
>>>> But diesel injection needs around 25,000 psi of fuel pressure, 
>>>
>>>Aaah, I see why "EFI diesels" are only recently appearing. Do they
>>>really use 25000 PSI?? I thought it would only be a few hundred 
>PSI.
>>>
>I questioned this too -- asked a diesel mechanic who said pressure
>was 1700 to 1800 with upper limit of 2700.  Maybe above figure has
>one too many zeroes  (I can tell you I used to work in very high
>pressure area of a chemical plant and the 27000 number is W-A-Y out
>of line!).

Bosch Automotive Handbook (good reference for heaps of general 
questions guys!) say that "the fuel injection pump must supply fuel 
at a pressure of between 350 and 1200 bar" which works out to be 
between about 5100 and 17600 psi. 




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 02:21:34 1996
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Date: Tue, 10 Sep 1996 21:13:38 -0500
To: diy_efi
From: Matthew Lamari <mlamari@origin.ea.com>
Subject: Re: Re; Ancient History
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At 09:05 AM 9/11/96 est, you wrote:
>>I believe the point that is trying to be made is that if HP = Torque 
>>only at 5252 (which is agreed).  Then this is the only place where 
>>they CAN both be a maximum.  Not that they are a maximum.  But that 
>>this is the only point where they can both be a maximum at the same 
>>time.
>
>OK, now try the calculation in kW and N.m and see if you come to the 
>same conclusion!
>

That's where the lines cross for those units; but hp does not equal torque
as their units are different.  You could say two powers are equal, or two
torques are equal, or two areas. . . .

Yeah, I was having a strange time believing that 5252 was some sort of
universal constant, when everyone knows the answer to life, the universe and
everything is 42!!


Matthew "References to Hitchiker's Guide to the Galaxy are purely
irrational" Lamari


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 04:40:05 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: Darrell Norquay <dnorquay@awinc.com>
Subject: Re: Playing...
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At 08:04 AM 9/10/96 -0500, Mark Pitts wrote:

>>Is there any reason why I can't build my own mass meter wth some nichrome
>>wire, and a foot of 6" drain pipe?

And Tom Cloud replied:

>Okay, can I speculate too??  I know that liquid and gas measurements
>have been made by using a heated wire (or thermocouple).  The concept

This is the way most thermal mass flowmeters work.  Often, they use two
identical thermistors, one in the aistream with a large enough current
forced through it to cause self-heating, the other with minimal current at
the same temp as, but not in the gas stream.  Then, either measure the
resistance difference, or servo the current into the sensor to maintain the
same voltage as the reference, and measure the current.  

I read an application note somewhere about a group that made a relatively
accurate flowmeter out of a couple of #47 panel lamps.  They broke the glass
envelope off one of them (sensor), and put it in the airstream, and left the
other bulb intact (reference).  Force a constant current through the two in
series, and measure the voltage across the sensing element.  This would be
the ultimate in cheep MAF's!  I'm not sure if the reference element was also
in the gas stream, but I know they limited the current to a value low enough
so they didn't burn out the filaments (no light).  Let me know if you try
this, I'd be interested in the results.


regards
dn
dnorquay@awinc.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 05:33:07 1996
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 01:25:43 -0400
To: diy_efi
From: Chuck Tomlinson <tomlinsc@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Ancient History
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>I believe the point that is trying to be made is that if HP = Torque 
>only at 5252 (which is agreed).  

True.  If power is measured in hp and torque in lb-ft, then the 
torque and power curves must cross at 5252 rpm.  No exceptions.

>Then this is the only place where 
>they CAN both be a maximum.  Not that they are a maximum.  But that 
>this is the only point where they can both be a maximum at the same 
>time.

Not true.  At peak hp, the torque vs rpm curve has a slope equal 
to (-Torque/rpm). That's the only requirement.  So if the torque 
curve peaks at some rpm and assumes that negative slope immediately 
after the peak, then hp and torque will both peak at that rpm.  In 
theory, that can occur at any rpm.

In practice, it is unlikely to happen at all.  Having peak hp and 
torque at the same rpm means that the torque curve *must* have a 
discontinuity in its slope.  IMHO, this is so unlikely that it's 
difficult for me not to use the word "impossible".

Math crap follows...

P(ower) = T(orque) * n(rpm) * k(constant).  In USCS, k = 1/5252.

P = T * n * k.  At peak hp, power curve's slope dP/dn = 0.  

But dP/dn = k * d(T.n)/dn = k * (T + (dT/dn * n))

So dP/dn = 0 when dT/dn = -T/n

--
Chuck Tomlinson


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 07:36:11 1996
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From: "Hans Hintermaier" <HIHA@GNF99M.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de>
Organization:  LMU-GRH Dept. of Neurology
To: diy_efi
Date:          Wed, 11 Sep 1996 09:25:12 MET
Subject: Radial- Diametral Head
Priority: normal
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Hi head builders,
because of the big resonance for the radial- diametral head of 
"Apfelbeck", I put the GIF images on the web.
http://www.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de/~hiha/gif/
The ISBN's and book titles are
Ludwig Apfelbeck
Wege zum hochleistungs Viertaktmotor
ISBN 3 - 87943 - 578 - 2 
and
L. Apfelbeck / H. Weichsler
Ventilsteuerungen fuer Hochleistungsmotoren
ISBN 3 - 613 - 01272 - 3
Both have ~200-250 pages and cost around 25$

He discribes many simple ways to tune and new-build an engine.
40 valve curves for different purposes are added.
Regards
Hans
hiha@ brain.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de
Munich / Germany

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 09:10:23 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'Thor Johnson'"
	 <johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu>
Subject: RE: Water Injection for power?
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 10:34:36 +-200
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Cant remember if I mentioned this... but I learned to drive in a Citroen =
2CV (you know those things... the ones that dont get chrome door =
handles.. and after you see one corner you realize why) But.... 1 got 10 =
miles an hour (85 instead of 75) flat out, on a cold and misty morning, =
to a fine and clear one... call it atmospheric water injection!=20

So I recon there is a lot to be said for water and density!! (bear in =
mind this 4 seater car only had 600cc!).

Mark.
----------


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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'Arnaldo Echevarria'" <aec@ao.net>,
        "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: Water Injection for power?
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 09:44:53 +-200
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My exhaust system has a 'sump' in it, and on a really cold start (-10c), =
it condenses in the pipe, and fills up.

I know this, because while manouvreing out my works car park (after =
leaving the car there for a night due to snow), I blew enough shit out =
on a quick blip to completely drench wis white BMW in black water!

I recon I got about 1/4 pint of water out after it had been warming up =
for 20 mins on full choke!
(looked like a glass full in quantity).

Mark

(who is no longer employed by the above BMW driving boss) ;-)


----------
From:  Arnaldo Echevarria[SMTP:aec@ao.net]
Sent:  Wednesday, September 11, 1996 1:24 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Re: Water Injection for power?

>I Remember two relevant curves - holding fuel constant, power went up=20
>linearly with water on a percent by percent basis.  100% fuel 10% =
water,=20
>+ 10% power etc. until a practical limit of about 50% was reached.
>
>Holding power constant, each percent of water displaced a percent of
>fuel until about a 50 50 ratio was reached.

So if I went out to my car and fed my 455ci engine a 50/50 mix of water/
fuel I'd get the same power?  I have a hard time believing this at full
throttle - plus I cant afford that much water :(, but will it work for =
part
throttle, ie cruising, speeds? =20
I think I can get around the mineral buildups with a weekly trip to the =
track
w/ high octane gas.....

>WTF does it work?  70% plus of chemical energy released by combustion
>leaves the engine as excess heat.  Absorb any of that EXCESS heat and
>turn water to steam and you gain either power or fuel economy or both.

But won't the added water particles reduce the ability to create a =
complete
combustion?
>
>PS   Ever wonder what is really going on during combustion.  Check the
>pressure temp curves of the three major gasses present after =
combustion.
>CO2, N2 and H2O.  Check out how much partial pressure each contributes
>to the mix.  Then remember, that as a rough approximate, one gallon of
>gasoline makes 2 gallons of water in the exhaust.=20

That much water comes out of my tailpipe?

Arnaldo




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 09:10:24 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'Matthew Lamari'"
	 <mlamari@origin.ea.com>
Subject: RE: Re; Ancient History
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 10:22:49 +-200
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Hey tin man... you didnt call just to wash your head at us, so whats the score.

(Zaphod... to Marv just before carpark in Milliways... where they found it... big black, and steeres like a cow.)

Mark... Hitching right off thread

;-)  Sorry.. promise not to do it again!


----------
From:  Matthew Lamari[SMTP:mlamari@origin.ea.com]
Sent:  Wednesday, September 11, 1996 4:14 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Re: Re; Ancient History

At 09:05 AM 9/11/96 est, you wrote:
>>I believe the point that is trying to be made is that if HP = Torque 
>>only at 5252 (which is agreed).  Then this is the only place where 
>>they CAN both be a maximum.  Not that they are a maximum.  But that 
>>this is the only point where they can both be a maximum at the same 
>>time.
>
>OK, now try the calculation in kW and N.m and see if you come to the 
>same conclusion!
>

That's where the lines cross for those units; but hp does not equal torque
as their units are different.  You could say two powers are equal, or two
torques are equal, or two areas. . . .

Yeah, I was having a strange time believing that 5252 was some sort of
universal constant, when everyone knows the answer to life, the universe and
everything is 42!!


Matthew "References to Hitchiker's Guide to the Galaxy are purely
irrational" Lamari




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 09:10:24 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'Markus Strobl'"
	 <eusmsrt@exu.ericsson.se>
Subject: RE: Ancient History
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 10:18:56 +-200
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So I way in at 122 lbs but.. I can lift my engine!... I can also lift my =
chassis with the G'box in it, and I can lift the whole Body shell with =
the interior in it up!... so I reckon the whole car could be picked up =
by about 5 of me... now drop 120 BHP into a 15 foot by 4'10 car at that =
weight... Is still quick.. not fast.. but QUICK.. (also allows very =
quick 'S' bends, as the body doesn't roll.. never had it so the body was =
on the piss still from the last bend when entering the next one.. helps =
against the more powerful slugs!

Mark  (who still wants to build a 2.2 litre v8 to put in it)

----------
From:  Markus Strobl[SMTP:eusmsrt@exu.ericsson.se]
Sent:  Tuesday, September 10, 1996 9:40 PM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  RE: Ancient History

> Its =3D
> a real shame only having 1.5 litres (but my body weight is so low I =
=3D
> still get performance enough to scare me down the little lanes).
>=20
> Mark

I thought having *negative* body weight was in violation of the laws of
physics?=20

:-)


-------

Markus '96 Z28 w/ mods. Proof that OBDII is not the end of performance.



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 09:10:27 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'Mark Eidson'"
	 <mark.eidson@tempe.vlsi.com>
Subject: RE: O2 Sensor-Leaded gas
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 10:11:37 +-200
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Nope... not just the puss that dies... Pb kills the o2 as well... which =
is a shame, cos I like lead... unless any body out there knows of an o2 =
that can cope with lead.

Mark=20

----------
From:  Mark Eidson[SMTP:mark.eidson@tempe.vlsi.com]
Sent:  Tuesday, September 10, 1996 7:21 PM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  O2 Sensor-Leaded gas

Is the O2 sensor affected by leaded gas or is it just the cat conv?  me
*************************************************************************=
**
* Mark Eidson                        Voice: (602)752-6513                =
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* Staff Design Engineer                Fax: (602)752-6000                =
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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 11:08:39 1996
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>------------------------------
>
>From: Chuck Tomlinson <tomlinsc@ix.netcom.com>
>Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 01:25:43 -0400
>Subject: Re: Ancient History
>
>>I believe the point that is trying to be made is that if HP = Torque 
>>only at 5252 (which is agreed).  
>
>True.  If power is measured in hp and torque in lb-ft, then the 
>torque and power curves must cross at 5252 rpm.  No exceptions.

Oh I don't know about that! If you go down to the local hot rod shop often
you'll find some product there with dyno charts for their product that show
that torque and hp aren't the same at 5252.!
   These guys should use just a little more sense when they draw there
performance
curves, but I always appreciate the clue! 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 11:38:44 1996
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From: pfontana@netline.totobit.it (fontana pasquale)
Subject: group buy pcb& chip
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HELLO TO ALL

I want to know where ,also how (by credit card it's possible?) , I can
purchase the pcb, for the efi ecu 68332 based cpu and relative BDM , the
'special chip':

 MC68332acfc20 
 AM29f010-120JC 5v eeprom
 821949-5 -  bottom part of 68332 socket
 821942-1 .

It's possible by a group if exist?

Thanks for "those helpers" .



PASQUALE            
                 ***
                **                \||/
              *    *<nigth&day>   ('') 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 13:51:51 1996
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 d>Within the last few months I read an article about recent 
 d>efforts to perfect an agent to maintain naptha and water 
 d>as a stable colloid. In addition to being useful as a 
 d>fuel, the criteria for acceptability include multiple 
 d>transitions from high to low temperatures without 
 d>separation. 

 d>The magazine may have been MACHINE DESIGN.  I believe that 
 d>the University of Arizona and Caterpillar were both 
 d>mentioned.  

 d>Did any one else see the article?  I would like to read it 
 d>again. 

Caterpillar is supposedly working with a guy named Gunnerman to develop this
"wonder fuel". I'll believe it when I see it.




 d>--- FIDOGATE 3.9.7

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 18:35:54 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Altitude Compensation
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 11:24:43 -0700
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>From what I read and hear, the Air Flow sensor used in production
EFI's at best compensate for temp and density changes in the 
intake air mass.   Then the oxygen sensor is used to fine tune
the mixture to a rich power setting - I.E. no uncombined oxygen

Does anyone do any altitude compensation?  Because, as altitude
increases, not only does the air mass density decrease, but the
percentage of oxygen decreases (simple physics - check books
before questioning or flaming) and the oxygen decrease is independent
of the density decrease.  

Basically, this means that to maintain a constant fuel /oxygen mixture
(which is what counts because the rest of the air is meaningless for 
combustion) for a given power, more air most be ingested and a leaner
fuel/air
mixture used or it becomes overrich.  Incidentally, why you lean out
a piston aircraft engine at altitude is more to avoid a cool burning
 overrich mixture slowing carboning up and fouling out your engine than
just enhancing economy.  

Basically, as I understand it, the oxygen sensor corrects this after the
fact.
Is there any sensors that compensate the air flow value for the altitude 
related decrease in oxygen?   Note that this is not a problem on excess
oxygen engines such as diesels and gas turbines and why they do not
loss power in the mountains like gasoline engines do.

Remember the Reichstag

----------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 20:38:18 1996
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From: "David M Parrish" <dmp@bmesun1.MCG.EDU>
To: diy_efi
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 16:35:57 +0000
Subject: Re: Altitude Compensation
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> From:          "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>

> Does anyone do any altitude compensation?  Because, as altitude
> increases, not only does the air mass density decrease, but the
> percentage of oxygen decreases (simple physics - check books
> before questioning or flaming) and the oxygen decrease is independent
> of the density decrease.  

Okay. I'll bite. What's your source for this simple physics? 
(Remember Brownian motion and diffusion.)

On cars with MAF sensors, it's automatic, since you're measuring 
the Mass of air and X mass of air needs Y mass of fuel.

Speed density systems measure pressure and temperature to calculate 
the mass.

---
David Parrish
Carbs and aircraft injection are a whole 'nuther ballpark.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 21:03:26 1996
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 15:55:56 -0500
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> Does anyone do any altitude compensation?  Because, as altitude
> increases, not only does the air mass density decrease, but the
> percentage of oxygen decreases (simple physics - check books
> before questioning or flaming) and the oxygen decrease is independent
> of the density decrease.  

The PCM in my '96 GM car has barometric pressure as an input, so it
seems it's used. 


-------

Markus '96 Z28 w/ mods. Proof that OBDII is not the end of performance.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 22:23:01 1996
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 17:27:14 -0400
To: diy_efi
From: Chuck Tomlinson <tomlinsc@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Altitude Compensation
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Robert J. Harris wrote:
>
>Does anyone do any altitude compensation?  Because, as altitude
>increases, not only does the air mass density decrease, but the
>percentage of oxygen decreases (simple physics - check books
>before questioning or flaming) and the oxygen decrease is independent
>of the density decrease.  

OK, I did a little research on the Web; everything I saw that 
described atmospheric composition said that the composition of the 
troposphere is roughly constant (up to ~10 km) because of thorough 
convective mixing. 

This makes sense to me, and since the highest roads I know of are 
lower than 5 km (16,000') and subject to winds that travel from 
valleys to peaks, I'd expect the air composition to be essentially 
the same as sea level (but less dense, of course).

I'm not flaming you; I'm just curious about *why* the percentage 
of oxygen would change from sea level to 5 km, and if it does, 
by how much. 

Thanks.
--
Chuck Tomlinson.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 22:44:15 1996
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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Altitude Compensation
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Reply-To: diy_efi

>> Does anyone do any altitude compensation?  Because, as altitude
>> increases, not only does the air mass density decrease, but the
>> percentage of oxygen decreases (simple physics - check books
>> before questioning or flaming) and the oxygen decrease is independent
>> of the density decrease.  
>
>The PCM in my '96 GM car has barometric pressure as an input, so it
>seems it's used. 
>

seems to me that that's what BAP (barometric atmos. press.) as opposed
to (or in addition to ??) MAP (manifold atmos. press.) does.  also,
supposedly EGO feedback accomplishes this within certain limits ??

tom cloud


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 22:59:16 1996
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 15:51:20 -0700
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From: Johnny <allnight@everett.net>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re[2]: O2 Sensor-Leaded gas
In-Reply-To: <01BB9FD0.3460E580@speed.demon.nl>
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There was a thread a few months ago that covered this topic pretty well.
I would have sworn that someone had mentioned knowledge of  a sensor
out there that was supposed to be able to deal with lead. I have searched
through all my old archives and can't find that old thread. Does anyone
else remember this or am I just losing it?

Darrell??? do you remember this thread?

-j-

At [Wed, 11 Sep 1996 10:11:37 +-200]
Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org> wrote:

saxon> Nope... not just the puss that dies... Pb kills the o2 as well... which is a shame, cos I like lead... unless any body out there knows of an o2 that can cope with lead.
saxon> 
saxon> Mark 
saxon> 
saxon> ----------
saxon> From:  Mark Eidson[SMTP:mark.eidson@tempe.vlsi.com]
saxon> Sent:  Tuesday, September 10, 1996 7:21 PM
saxon> To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
saxon> Subject:  O2 Sensor-Leaded gas
saxon> 
saxon> Is the O2 sensor affected by leaded gas or is it just the cat conv?  me
saxon> ***************************************************************************
saxon> * Mark Eidson                        Voice: (602)752-6513                 *
saxon> * Staff Design Engineer                Fax: (602)752-6000                 *
saxon> * Manager System Integration and                                          *
saxon> *   Verification                    E-Mail:  mark.eidson@tempe.vlsi.com   *
saxon> * VLSI Technology, Inc.                                                   *
saxon> * 8375 South River Parkway                                                *
saxon> * M/S 265                                                                 *
saxon> * Tempe, Arizona     85284                                                *
saxon> ***************************************************************************
saxon> 
saxon> 
saxon> 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 23:43:25 1996
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From: jengel@fastlane.net
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To: diy_efi
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 18:22:44 +600
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Mark,

I'd thought about doing something of the sort.  The reason I didn't 
is that a MAF from the junkyard is going to be a lot less expensive
unless your attempt is pretty close on the first try (or unless your
time isn't worth much).

Didn't it take Edison 119 trys to make the first electric light?

On the other hand, you could learn a LOT about MAF during the 
process.

And don't they use platinum ($$$) wire?

je

> From:          Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
> To:            "'DIY EFI'" <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Subject:       Playing...
> Date:          Tue, 10 Sep 1996 10:14:07 +-200
> Reply-to:      diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

> Is ther any reason why I cant build my own mass meter wth some nichrome wire, and a foot of 6" drain pipe?
> 
> Cos what I've seen of them thats about it.
> 
> Plus a burn off circuit, and a bridge for doing the current measurement.
> 
> Like, I think the Idea is: Keep the current constant, measure the voltage across to get that current, have another bit of wire as a reference, and an absolute air temp/ atmospheric pressure reading,
> and away you go?
> 
> 
> Yes... no ... who cares I got mine from the breakers....?
> Any comments really?
> 
> (I'll even take 'Dont be stupid' for this one!)
> 
> Mark

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 11 23:57:29 1996
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To: diy_efi
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 18:39:43 +600
Subject: Re: more water injection
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Dirk,

The problem is keeping the water mixed with the gasoline.  "Dry Gas"
is generally an alcohol-based product that attaches the water and gas 
on a molecular level (I forget whether gas is polar or non-polar, but 
water is the opposite.  Alcohol has a polar end and a non-polar end, 
so it attaches to both).

I doubt that a significant amount of water mixed with gas would have 
any postitive long term effects on fuel injectors, though.

je

> Date:          Tue, 10 Sep 1996 09:23:55 -0400 (EDT)
> From:          Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
> To:            diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:       more water injection
> Reply-to:      diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

> OK, here's a really dumb (but interesting to me) question: If water 
> injection is so great, why is water in the gas considered so bad? Why 
> bother with products like "dry gas" if water in the cylinders is a good 
> thing? Why do most engines run so bad (I think) when there's water mixed 
> in with the gas in the tank? 
> 
> I can understand the freezing bit in winter, which could be cured with 
> added alcohol of glycol, but if water injection is so good, it seems that 
> you could save yourself a bunch of hassle by just adding water to the gas 
> in the gas tank. Is it possible that you only want water injection under 
> certain circumstances, like WOT? If so, then I could understand the need 
> for dry gas and a separate water injection system. Otherwise, what's the 
> deal?
> 
> 
> ****************************************************************************
> Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
> "I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
> "A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
> ****************************************************************************
> 
> 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 00:10:33 1996
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From: Craig Eid <craige@tiger.sr.hp.com>
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Hello all - I'm new to the group so I'll give you my background and
interests. I'm an electrical engineer working for HP in northern California.
I've done a fair amount of digital and analog circuit design in the past - 
the last three years have been spent bringing new products out of the
lab.

I own two vintage Mustangs (a '65 coupe and '66 fastback) and have dropped
a 1994 4.6 litre, 4 cam V8 into the '65 coupe. I've played around with the
EEC-IV SEFI system a bit on the dyno and believe there are some hidden
ponies waiting to be unleashed. However, the EEC-IV system is a bit awkward 
to work with. My interest is in getting more performance from the FI system
(as always) at a reasonable cost. I don't want to pay the price for the
ACCEL/DFI system but would like to help develop an SEFI system that's much more
user friendly and easier to customize.

I've searched the first 15 archives and haven't been able to find the FAQ.
If it exists, could someone point me to it?


Thanks,


CRaig

-- 
Craig Eid 

Manufacturing Development Engineer
Microwave Instruments Division, Hewlett Packard
e-mail address    craige@sr.hp.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 00:24:40 1996
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On Wed, 11 Sep 1996, Markus Strobl wrote:

> > Does anyone do any altitude compensation?  Because, as altitude
> > increases, not only does the air mass density decrease, but the
> > percentage of oxygen decreases (simple physics - check books
> > before questioning or flaming) and the oxygen decrease is independent
> > of the density decrease.  
> 

Ford's EEC-IV system (speed density) utilizes a MAP sensor that also 
doubles as a Barometric sensor.  It switches to this other function at 
every start up and at wide open throttle.  I don't know when this type of 
sensor started to be used but I would guess early '80's and definitly up 
and including 1987.
The older EEC-III speed density systems used a separate Baro. sensor as well 
as a MAP.
cheers
jw

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 01:32:06 1996
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To: Johnny <allnight@everett.net>
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Subject: Re: Re[2]: O2 Sensor-Leaded gas
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> There was a thread a few months ago that covered this topic pretty well.
> I would have sworn that someone had mentioned knowledge of  a sensor
> out there that was supposed to be able to deal with lead. I have searched
> through all my old archives and can't find that old thread. Does anyone
> else remember this or am I just losing it?
> 
> Darrell??? do you remember this thread?
> 
> -j-

All sensors are affected by lead but the Bosch LSM-11 sensor used in
the Bosch LA-2 a/f meter is less affected by lead. Sheet shows after
500 hours exposure to 0.5 gm/gal , the sensor shows <0.02 lambda change.
That is not alot of lead, but 500 is lotsa hours. Bosch says they can
be renewed if not too dirty by running in unleaded engine for awhile.
Sensor costs about $160 so cheap 3 wires may be cheaper in long run.

Frank Parker



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 04:21:11 1996
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At 03:51 PM 9/11/96 -0700, you wrote:
>There was a thread a few months ago that covered this topic pretty well.
>I would have sworn that someone had mentioned knowledge of  a sensor
>out there that was supposed to be able to deal with lead. I have searched
>through all my old archives and can't find that old thread. Does anyone
>else remember this or am I just losing it?
>
>Darrell??? do you remember this thread?

Yeah, I remember the thread, I think it was someone in NZ who brought it up,
since they still use leaded gas.    It was someone whose name I haven't seen
around lately.  All I remember was that they had found some stock sensor
that lasted longer than most others, but I don't recollect which it was.  I
also recollect that they'd wake up if you used unleaded gas for a while...
I'll check through some of my old folders and see if anything shakes out...

BTW, I think you're like me, have an excellent memory, but short...



regards
dn
dnorquay@awinc.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 04:21:11 1996
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At 11:24 AM 9/11/96 -0700, RJH wrote:

>>From what I read and hear, the Air Flow sensor used in production
>EFI's at best compensate for temp and density changes in the 
>intake air mass.   Then the oxygen sensor is used to fine tune
>the mixture to a rich power setting - I.E. no uncombined oxygen

>Does anyone do any altitude compensation?  Because, as altitude

Most production systems use barometric compensation in one form or another.
Some systems take a baro reading from the MAP sensor after the ignition key
is turned on, but before the engine starts, and store this as a reference.
This can also be updated at WOT, since manifold pressure is essentially =
baro pressure at this point (with some flow related pressure drop).  Some
systems have a separate baro sensor in addition to MAP.  Some MAPs are not
absolute sensors at all, but differential sensors, referenced on one side to
atmospheric, so as the baro changes, the MAP reference point changes as
well.  Some compensation is possible with the fuel pressure regulator, since
it is usually referenced to manifold pressure and thus atmospheric
indirectly.  And, some systems have none at all.  Remember that most carbs
have no baro comp, and they worked for the last 100 years or so...   As you
mentioned, the O2 sensor can compensate somewhat at steady state conditions.  

regards
dn
dnorquay@awinc.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 05:04:24 1996
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 21:54:56 -0700
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From: Johnny <allnight@everett.net>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re[2]: Re[2]: O2 Sensor-Leaded gas
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The cheapy's add up pretty quick. I have been able to get unreliable
sensor output in a matter of a few hours when running with avgas. Even
the 100LL screws them up fairly quickly. Not totally shot, but incorrect
and inconsistent enough to be rendered useless for closed loop.I guess it
won't matter after avgas is made leadless... but until then
I guess there's always the trim pot on the dash.  ;-)

-j-


At [Wed, 11 Sep 1996 21:23:02 -0400 (EDT)]
Frank F Parker <fparker@umich.edu> wrote:


fparker> All sensors are affected by lead but the Bosch LSM-11 sensor used in
fparker> the Bosch LA-2 a/f meter is less affected by lead. Sheet shows after
fparker> 500 hours exposure to 0.5 gm/gal , the sensor shows <0.02 lambda change.
fparker> That is not alot of lead, but 500 is lotsa hours. Bosch says they can
fparker> be renewed if not too dirty by running in unleaded engine for awhile.
fparker> Sensor costs about $160 so cheap 3 wires may be cheaper in long run.
fparker> 
fparker> Frank Parker
fparker> 
fparker> 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 07:05:59 1996
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Date: 12 Sep 96 02:54:09 EDT
From: Jim Steck <72614.557@CompuServe.COM>
To: DIY-EFI digest <DIY_EFI>
Subject: More Water Injection
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>> OK, here's a really dumb (but interesting to me) question: If water 
>> injection is so great, why is water in the gas considered so bad? Why 
>> bother with products like "dry gas" if water in the cylinders is a good 
>> thing? Why do most engines run so bad (I think) when there's water mixed 
>> in with the gas in the tank? 
>
>Gasoline is lighter than water, and hence "floats" on top of it.  You 
>fuel tank pick-up is located in the bottom of the tank.  You add water to 
>the tank and all you'll be injecting into the engine is water.  

If you read Ricardo experiments with water injection he also states that 
water dissolved in the fuel . . . with some mutual solvent like acetone . . . 
is even more effective than water injection.

Jim Steck
AutoComponenti


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 08:07:32 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'jengel@fastlane.net'"
	 <jengel@fastlane.net>
Subject: RE: Playing...
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 09:43:34 +-200
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Thanks for the note on Platinum, if you go to your local hobby store, =
you will find they sell glow plugs, for model airplane engines, with a =
small coil of .... You guessed it Platinum wire, as the element (and =
they survive for about 40 hours running red to white hot in the =
combustion chamber.. so the wire must be ok).. If I cant get enough, il =
phone a manufacturer, and see if they have any off cuts, ends of reels =
etc.

PS Plugs are only a couple of bucks each.

Mark ;-)

----------
From:  jengel@fastlane.net[SMTP:jengel@fastlane.net]
Sent:  Wednesday, September 11, 1996 8:23 PM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Re: Playing...

Mark,

I'd thought about doing something of the sort.  The reason I didn't=20
is that a MAF from the junkyard is going to be a lot less expensive
unless your attempt is pretty close on the first try (or unless your
time isn't worth much).

Didn't it take Edison 119 trys to make the first electric light?

On the other hand, you could learn a LOT about MAF during the=20
process.

And don't they use platinum ($$$) wire?

je

> From:          Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
> To:            "'DIY EFI'" <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Subject:       Playing...
> Date:          Tue, 10 Sep 1996 10:14:07 +-200
> Reply-to:      diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu

> Is ther any reason why I cant build my own mass meter wth some =
nichrome wire, and a foot of 6" drain pipe?
>=20
> Cos what I've seen of them thats about it.
>=20
> Plus a burn off circuit, and a bridge for doing the current =
measurement.
>=20
> Like, I think the Idea is: Keep the current constant, measure the =
voltage across to get that current, have another bit of wire as a =
reference, and an absolute air temp/ atmospheric pressure reading,
> and away you go?
>=20
>=20
> Yes... no ... who cares I got mine from the breakers....?
> Any comments really?
>=20
> (I'll even take 'Dont be stupid' for this one!)
>=20
> Mark



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 08:07:35 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'David M Parrish'"
	 <dmp@bmesun1.MCG.EDU>
Subject: RE: Altitude Compensation
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 09:51:19 +-200
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The point is even tho' the density drops, if you compress that air to =
sea level density, there is less oxygen in it, thus you need to lean out =
at altitude.

Sorry to go back to my model airplanes, but for the glider tugs (which =
ran 120cc petrol engines, with electronic ignition) we had to solder an =
arm on the end of the needle so that we could fit a servo and adjust =
mixture in flight, otherwise we lost so much power, we couldnt pull the =
glider any higher. And we are only talking 5000' Like a mile or so up!

At ground level the tugs would climb out at about 45 degrees, with =
anything on the back..

Mark


----------
From:  David M Parrish[SMTP:dmp@bmesun1.MCG.EDU]
Sent:  Wednesday, September 11, 1996 6:36 PM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Re: Altitude Compensation

> From:          "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>

> Does anyone do any altitude compensation?  Because, as altitude
> increases, not only does the air mass density decrease, but the
> percentage of oxygen decreases (simple physics - check books
> before questioning or flaming) and the oxygen decrease is independent
> of the density decrease. =20

Okay. I'll bite. What's your source for this simple physics?=20
(Remember Brownian motion and diffusion.)

On cars with MAF sensors, it's automatic, since you're measuring=20
the Mass of air and X mass of air needs Y mass of fuel.

Speed density systems measure pressure and temperature to calculate=20
the mass.

---
David Parrish
Carbs and aircraft injection are a whole 'nuther ballpark.



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 08:27:45 1996
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From: M HILL <EAXMJHI@ean2.mecheng.nottingham.ac.uk>
Organization:  Mech Eng, University of Nottingham
To: diy_efi
Date:          Thu, 12 Sep 1996 09:18:09 GMT0BST
Subject:       EFI332 home page
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Has something happened to the server for the efi332 homepage?  I have 
been trying to get there for the last few days with no success.

Martin 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 10:23:44 1996
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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 22:01:00 +0000
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Altitude Compensation
To: diy_efi
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-> From what I read and hear, the Air Flow sensor used in production
-> EFI's at best compensate for temp and density changes in the

 Speaking of which, does anyone have a voltage/CFM or voltage/grams-min
curve for any of the Ford MAFs?  I've been tinkering with one off a 5.0
Mustang.  The hot-wire MAF is sensitive enough for the voltmeter to
indicate when someone walks by the bench, but it's apparently very
nonlinear.
                 

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Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 19:46:00 +0000
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: water injection
To: diy_efi
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-> Caterpillar is supposedly working with a guy named Gunnerman to
-> develop this "wonder fuel". I'll believe it when I see it.

 There is actually a fairly decent body of information on water emulsion
fuels going back to the 1950s.  Several SAE papers and some theses,
anyway.

 Basically, the emulsions seem to have a small but favorable cost/power
ratio compared to straight fuel - that is, if you had a 25% water
emulsion, your power output would not drop a full 25%.  Most emulsions
are made by forcing the fuel and water through a fine mesh under
pressure, where they will stay in emulsion for a few minutes, long
enough to be carbureted or injected, anyway.

 It *does* work, though it's not really worth all the hassle, like
turbo-compound engines.  I don't know of any current or planned real
world applications, though it'd likely be limited to stationary or
marine stuff.

 At the other extreme you have the people who claim to have some sort of
solvent that will let you mix gas and water together and get more power
than straight gas alone, cleaner teeth, fresher breath, and as much
studliness as you can handle.  Various alcohols will let you do it, but
you won't get that kind of results.  Run away, run away....

====dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us========================DoD#978=======
  can you help me...help me get out of this place?...slow sedation...
ain't my style, ain't my pace...giving me a number...NINE, SEVEN, EIGHT
==5.0 RX7 -> Tyrannosaurus RX! == SAE '82 == Denizens of Doom M/C '92==
                                                                                  

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Hello Martin 

try this:
http://www.iris.swin.edu.au/~aden/efi332/

>Has something happened to the server for the efi332 homepage?  I have 
>been trying to get there for the last few days with no success.
>
>Martin 
>
>


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 12:29:08 1996
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From: "David M Parrish" <dmp@bmesun1.MCG.EDU>
To: diy_efi
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 08:21:25 +0000
Subject: RE: Altitude Compensation
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>From:             Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>

> The point is even tho' the density drops, if you compress that air to sea level density, there is less oxygen in it, thus you need to lean out at altitude.
> Sorry to go back to my model airplanes, but for the glider tugs (which ran 120cc petrol engines, with electronic ignition) we had to solder an arm on the end of the needle so that we could fit a ser
> o and adjust mixture in flight, otherwise we lost so much power, we couldnt pull the glider any higher. And we are only talking 5000' Like a mile or so up!
> At ground level the tugs would climb out at about 45 degrees, with anything on the back..

No, I don't think so. If you took air from 10K and compressed it to 
sea level, the ratios of the components would be identical or nearly 
identical. The reason aircraft have to lean at altitude is (if not 
alititude compensated) is lower air density and therefore lower O2. 

Mechanical injection systems vary fuel delivery pretty much by 
throttle position, so you have to manually reduce the fuel delivered 
as the pressure (and mass per volume) of air goes down.

(I may be on thin ice here.) Carbs draw fuel based on the velocity of 
air flowing past the venturi, and not the actual mass, so they also 
richen with altitude.

---
David Parrish
Future aviator.
As soon as I finish building my plane.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 12:35:39 1996
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To: diy_efi, fordnatics@lists.best.com
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: MAP sensor
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I would like to add MAP sensing to my system.  What's a good MAP to use,
how much is it, where does one get it (if it's for a vehicle, I suppose
a parts house), and how does it work?

I have looked in recent posts and found that oOn Tue, 03 Sep 1996, Todd
Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com> wrote:  Motorola has a lot of data sheets
on their MPX4250A, etc. line of pressure transducers we've been using.
(Todd also noted in another post that he used a GM sensor that had an
AC output.)

On Wed, 11 Sep 1996, James Weiler <james@brc.ubc.ca> wrote:  Ford's EEC-IV
system (speed density) utilizes a MAP sensor that also doubles as a
Barometric sensor.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 12:44:36 1996
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>Hello all - I'm new to the group
        [ snip ]
>Craig Eid 
>e-mail address <craige@sr.hp.com> OR <craige@tiger.sr.hp.com> ??

Craig, I tried 'both' e-mail addresses and was unsuccesful with
either.  Tell me how to reach you and I'll send you some stuff.

Tom Cloud


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 13:38:01 1996
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In-Reply-To: <9609121232.AA28556@hagar.ph.utexas.edu> from "tom cloud" at Sep 12, 96 07:32:10 am
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> 
> I would like to add MAP sensing to my system.  What's a good MAP to use,
> how much is it, where does one get it (if it's for a vehicle, I suppose
> a parts house), and how does it work?
> 
Sorry for the advertisement but:

Try the junkyards.  Most (All??) GM MAP sensors are supplied by DE.
I believe the late model Toyota's use our Gen-2 sensor, which is much
smaller than the old one.

Sorry, don't have the pinout handy.

---
Matthew D. Sale,  IC Development Engineer, Delco Electronics Corp.
msale@holli.com   http://www.holli.com/~msale
'69 Mustang 351W 5-spd (13.656@103MPH using cave-man technology).

All responses are my own and should not be mistaken
for those of Delco Electronics or General Motors.


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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: RE: Altitude Compensation
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>>From:             Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
>
>> The point is even tho' the density drops, if you compress that air to sea
level density, there is less oxygen in it, thus you need to lean out at
altitude.

        [ SNIP ]
>
>No, I don't think so. If you took air from 10K and compressed it to 
>sea level, the ratios of the components would be identical or nearly 
>identical. The reason aircraft have to lean at altitude is (if not 
>alititude compensated) is lower air density and therefore lower O2. 
>
>Mechanical injection systems vary fuel delivery pretty much by 
>throttle position, so you have to manually reduce the fuel delivered 
>as the pressure (and mass per volume) of air goes down.
>
>(I may be on thin ice here.) Carbs draw fuel based on the velocity of 
>air flowing past the venturi, and not the actual mass, so they also 
>richen with altitude.
>
>---
>David Parrish

what do i know ??  As I understand:  the ratio of O2 and N2 are
the same at any altitude us puny homo saps (I know, speak for my-
self) can survive at (oops, poor english).

The term "lean out" in the apps above really means to supply less fuel.
This is necessary since the air is less dense and therefore less O2.
Seems to me you're trying to hold the A/F ratio essentially the same --
or at least know what it is to determine richer / leaner.  So, makes
sense to me that you always want to know how much O2 there is so you'll
know how much petrol to mix with it.  The velocity of the air flow
(eg. carb) doesn't tell you this.  So, when you go from sea level to the
mountains, you have to change the jets. Barometric pressure (BAP / MAP)
doesn't tell you either.  I would think the EGO would tell you (albeit a
few milliseconds after the fact) whether the mixture was near stoich or
not), though it doesn't give direct O2 availability data either.

Now, it's been a long time since my physics, and I have to go on
what little reasoning powers I have left, but it seems to me that the
quantity of O2 available can be adequately determined from the volume
of air flow (MAF) and density (BAP or MAP).  If one doesn't have MAF,
he could interpolate from TPS and the differential of BAP and MAP (i.e.
the absolute pressure on the throttle opening).  Then, assuming atmos
pressure doesn't change very quickly, one's system could 'remember' the
EGO's feedback reference point of stoich and extrapolate lean / rich
from there.

Now, if the ratio of O2 in the atmosphere really did change at different
altitudes (hard to imagine) we would really be screwed.

But, what do I know?? (It's been said before.)

Tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 14:45:01 1996
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From: Brad Sheridan <brads@ding.mindspring.com>
Message-Id: <199609121439.KAA22286@ding.mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: EFI332 home page
To: diy_efi
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 10:39:14 -0400 (EDT)
In-Reply-To: <9609121011.AA06093@netline.totobit.it> from "fontana pasquale" at Sep 12, 96 12:11:38 pm
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> 
> Hello Martin 
> 
> try this:
> http://www.iris.swin.edu.au/~aden/efi332/
 
  That gives me the same result as the last location. When I do a
traceroute, it seems to make it all the way to the swin.edu.au, and then
dies as soon as it gets there. This is the same traceroute result I got
with the last address as well. 

Brad

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From: "David M Parrish" <dmp@bmesun1.MCG.EDU>
To: diy_efi
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 11:50:03 +0000
Subject: RE: Altitude Compensation
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> From:          cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)

> mountains, you have to change the jets. Barometric pressure (BAP / MAP)
> doesn't tell you either.  I would think the EGO would tell you (albeit a

Actually, MAP can. MAP is an absolute pressure, so as you go up, the 
manafold pressure will also drop without changing the throttle. 
Combine MAP with temperature and the engine's volumetric efficiency, 
you can get a pretty good idea about the actual mass flow of air.

> quantity of O2 available can be adequately determined from the volume
> of air flow (MAF) and density (BAP or MAP).  If one doesn't have MAF,

MAF will do it by itself. How much fuel you squirt is based squarely 
on the mass of oxygen in the cylinder and that's exactly what a MAF 
tells you. MAP+temp+VE+fancy math gives you about the same thing.

---
David Parrish
I don't even want to think about humidity...

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 16:19:47 1996
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 09:08:16 -0700
From: Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>
Organization: Protomotive Engineering
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Subject: Re: MAP sensor
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Tom,
	Newark Electronics has the Motorola Sensors.  They're not to be put in
the engine compartment.  They're not ruggedized.  We've been putting
them inside the Motronics unit inside the car and they've worked well. 
the MPX4250A is a 2.5 bar absolute sensor, so it's good to about 20psi
and absolute vacuum.  They make a MPX4100A, I think that's the number,
for normally aspirated vehicles, never ordered that one.  These are all
temperature trimmed and compensated sensors so they aren't affected by
different temps like most MAPs are.
	Have just played with GM's and Honda's MAPs and have just guessed at
what's really going on, no data sheets available.

Todd Knighton
Protomotive Engineering

tom cloud wrote:
> 
> I would like to add MAP sensing to my system.  What's a good MAP to use,
> how much is it, where does one get it (if it's for a vehicle, I suppose
> a parts house), and how does it work?
> 
> I have looked in recent posts and found that oOn Tue, 03 Sep 1996, Todd
> Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com> wrote:  Motorola has a lot of data sheets
> on their MPX4250A, etc. line of pressure transducers we've been using.
> (Todd also noted in another post that he used a GM sensor that had an
> AC output.)
> 
> On Wed, 11 Sep 1996, James Weiler <james@brc.ubc.ca> wrote:  Ford's EEC-IV
> system (speed density) utilizes a MAP sensor that also doubles as a
> Barometric sensor.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 16:19:49 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Injector Flow Variation
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 09:15:16 -0700
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Remember the Reichstag

----------
> From: tom cloud <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: RE: Injector Flow Variation
> Date: Monday, September 09, 1996 6:44 AM
> 
All things mechanical - there will be a flow variant - hopefully
small.  Bad things like detonation events occur first in the 
poorest mixture quality cylinder, thus the whole engine is 
limited by the weakest cylinder.  SFI with only an oxygen 
sensor feedback loop adjusts based on an all cylinder 
composite oxygen reading.

The next step is to use a quality industrial temperature 
measuring device (thermocouple, RTD's) to measure Exhaust
Gas Temp at each individual port, and wire them so that rather
than showing absolute temperature, the device's would show 
temperature differential's between cylinders.  

All things being closely approximate - (e.g. cylinder volume, port
air flow, cooling capacity, etc.) the proximate cause of Exhaust
Gas Temperature variation will be mixture variations induced by 
injector flow variations.  Using the differential EGT data, each 
cylinders mixture could have corrections applied thereby  
finely tuning out all differences between cylinders and making more
power and economy by operating closer to detonation limits without
increased risk.  Course, now I'll have to prove that EGT temperature
is a dependent variable based on combustion mixture - ignore 80
years of A/C's watching EGT when adjusting mixtures - but oh well

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 16:48:14 1996
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 09:38:16 -0700
From: Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>
Organization: Protomotive Engineering
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Subject: Re: Altitude Compensation
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I do remember from some science class, way back in school, that the
composition of the atmosphere does change, but as someone said earlier
in this thread, minimally at low altitudes, where normal humans reside.
	And also in the other thread, the mechanical injection systems I've
seen on airplanes, do have barometric compensation built in.  Some
cheaper systems on smaller planes might not, thus the pull lever for
mixture trim.

Todd Knighton
Protomotive Engineering

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 16:51:57 1996
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 09:43:16 -0700
From: Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Radial- Diametral Head
References: <2F2AA95CE9@brain.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de>
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Hans Hintermaier wrote:
> 
> Hi head builders,
> because of the big resonance for the radial- diametral head of
> "Apfelbeck", I put the GIF images on the web.
> http://www.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de/~hiha/gif/

Interesting, but I saw an even more interesting design at the SEMA show
last year.
It incorporated what looked like two camshafts, but they were also the
ports and valves as well.
They were basically ball valves, that opened and closed the port from
the head, rotating at 1/4 crank speed I think.  The shape of the opening
in the ball valve determined the valve events.
They had these things on a few 4 valve mercedes engines and had them
passing emmissions, but with a 20% increase in overall power.  The
torque curves looked great as well.
The only scary thing was the seat.  Is was a spring loaded seat, for a
good seal from the combustion chamber that rode on the rotary ball valve
thingy.  I could definately see those things getting torn up.  But they
"Said" that they had already run them in the 50,000 and 100,000 mile EPA
durability tests and "got by"

Todd Knighton
Protomotive Engineering

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 17:51:53 1996
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From: Mark Eidson <mark.eidson@tempe.vlsi.com>
Subject: RE: Altitude Compensation
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I thought that MAF stands for mass air flow, and that it measures the mass
of the air volume passing thru it, not just the volume.  The mass of the air
is depends on many things, one of which is atmospheric pressure.  If the O2
to other components in the air being measured is realitively the same at
different atmospheric pressures the MAF value should compensate for altitude
changes.  But I'm just a novice at this stuff.  me


At 09:15 AM 9/12/96 -0500, you wrote:
>>>From:             Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
>>
>>> The point is even tho' the density drops, if you compress that air to sea
>level density, there is less oxygen in it, thus you need to lean out at
>altitude.
>
>        [ SNIP ]
>>
>>No, I don't think so. If you took air from 10K and compressed it to 
>>sea level, the ratios of the components would be identical or nearly 
>>identical. The reason aircraft have to lean at altitude is (if not 
>>alititude compensated) is lower air density and therefore lower O2. 
>>
>>Mechanical injection systems vary fuel delivery pretty much by 
>>throttle position, so you have to manually reduce the fuel delivered 
>>as the pressure (and mass per volume) of air goes down.
>>
>>(I may be on thin ice here.) Carbs draw fuel based on the velocity of 
>>air flowing past the venturi, and not the actual mass, so they also 
>>richen with altitude.
>>
>>---
>>David Parrish
>
>what do i know ??  As I understand:  the ratio of O2 and N2 are
>the same at any altitude us puny homo saps (I know, speak for my-
>self) can survive at (oops, poor english).
>
>The term "lean out" in the apps above really means to supply less fuel.
>This is necessary since the air is less dense and therefore less O2.
>Seems to me you're trying to hold the A/F ratio essentially the same --
>or at least know what it is to determine richer / leaner.  So, makes
>sense to me that you always want to know how much O2 there is so you'll
>know how much petrol to mix with it.  The velocity of the air flow
>(eg. carb) doesn't tell you this.  So, when you go from sea level to the
>mountains, you have to change the jets. Barometric pressure (BAP / MAP)
>doesn't tell you either.  I would think the EGO would tell you (albeit a
>few milliseconds after the fact) whether the mixture was near stoich or
>not), though it doesn't give direct O2 availability data either.
>
>Now, it's been a long time since my physics, and I have to go on
>what little reasoning powers I have left, but it seems to me that the
>quantity of O2 available can be adequately determined from the volume
>of air flow (MAF) and density (BAP or MAP).  If one doesn't have MAF,
>he could interpolate from TPS and the differential of BAP and MAP (i.e.
>the absolute pressure on the throttle opening).  Then, assuming atmos
>pressure doesn't change very quickly, one's system could 'remember' the
>EGO's feedback reference point of stoich and extrapolate lean / rich
>from there.
>
>Now, if the ratio of O2 in the atmosphere really did change at different
>altitudes (hard to imagine) we would really be screwed.
>
>But, what do I know?? (It's been said before.)
>
>Tom
>
>
>
***************************************************************************
* Mark Eidson                        Voice: (602)752-6513                 *
* Staff Design Engineer                Fax: (602)752-6000                 *
* Manager System Integration and                                          *
*   Verification                    E-Mail:  mark.eidson@tempe.vlsi.com   *
* VLSI Technology, Inc.                                                   *
* 8375 South River Parkway                                                *
* M/S 265                                                                 *
* Tempe, Arizona     85284                                                *
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Re[2]: O2 Sensor-Leaded gas
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:57:22 -0400
From: John S Gwynne <jsg@esl>
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--------

|>out there that was supposed to be able to deal with lead. I have searched
|>through all my old archives and can't find that old thread. Does anyone
|>else remember this or am I just losing it?
|>
|>Darrell??? do you remember this thread?
|
|Yeah, I remember the thread, I think it was someone in NZ who brought it up,
|since they still use leaded gas.    It was someone whose name I haven't seen
|around lately.  All I remember was that they had found some stock sensor
|that lasted longer than most others, but I don't recollect which it was.  I
|also recollect that they'd wake up if you used unleaded gas for a while...
|I'll check through some of my old folders and see if anything shakes out...

Come on guys.... that's why I made the archive searchable
through http://efi332. Do a subject search for "lead" and the
whole thread is there! It took several days to put the search
engine and html stuff together.... USE IT! :) 

                                       John S Gwynne
                                          Gwynne.1@osu.edu
_______________________________________________________________________________
               T h e   O h i o - S t a t e   U n i v e r s i t y
    ElectroScience Laboratory, 1320 Kinnear Road, Columbus, Ohio 43212, USA
                Telephone: (614) 292-7981 * Fax: (614) 292-7297
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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From: Doug Rorem <rorem@cherokee.eecs.uic.edu>
Subject: Re: diesel injector break pressure
To: diy_efi
Message-Id: <rorem-9608122013.AA000423529@cherokee.eecs.uic.edu>
In-Reply-To: <9609100133.AA10989@wagner.mtco.com>
Sender: owner-diy_efi
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: diy_efi

on VW diesels, the injectors typically break around 170 bar (~2500 psi)

>>>> >Is there such a thing as an electronically controlled diesel injector?
>>>> >(aka instead of the usual mechanical fuel pump distributor thing..)
>>>> >
>>>> Yes:
>>>> 
>>>> But diesel injection needs around 25,000 psi of fuel pressure, so the
>>>> injector is a plunger piston pump that is operated off a lobe of the cam
>>>> shaft (twice as wide as the one that opens the valves).  The electric
>>>> solenoid is a bypass port that when ON blocks the outlet of the injector
>>>> 'pump' and forces it into the cylinder.  When OFF the flow returns to the
>>>> fuel tank.
>>>
>>>Aaah, I see why "EFI diesels" are only recently appearing. Do they
>>>really use 25000 PSI?? I thought it would only be a few hundred PSI.
>>>
>>>Craig.
>>>
>>>
>>Yes, the pressure is that high.  Some times it can get as high as 35000.
>>
>>David J. Doddek                                          |pantera@pobox.com
>>Owner SGD Electronics & Development Engr for Caterpillar |h 309 685-7965
>>Formula SAE Team Sidewinder 94-95                        |w 309 578-2931
>>89 T-bird SC,  69 Fairlane w/SGD EFI                     |fx 217 428-4686
>>74 Pantera w/Electromotive Tec-II Twin turbos and Nitros |
>>Hey, If you are going to go fast, go REEEAAL FAST.       |
>>


--
Doug Rorem
University of Illinois at Chicago         (312)-996-5439  [voice]
EECS Department  RM 1120                  (312)-413-1065  [fax]
851 S. Morgan Street                      (708)-996-2226  [pager]
Chicago, IL 60607-7053                    rorem@uic.edu

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 12 21:40:47 1996
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 96 14:33 PDT
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To: DIY_EFI
From: iii@islandnet.com (Intec Inoventures Inc.)
Subject: How to join the group?
Sender: owner-diy_efi
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: diy_efi

Hi,

I am interested in joining this mail group.  How do I do this?

I'm working on a small controller targeted to the automotive and robotics
industries (HC16 based).

Wade Barnes, Electronics Tech.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
    MC68HC16 Embedded Controllers and Software Development Tools    |
              WebPg   http://www.islandnet.com/~iii                 |
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Intec Inoventures Inc.       Phone   604-721-5150                   |
2751 Arbutus Road            Fax         721-4191                   |
Victoria   BC  V8N 5X7                                              |
Canada                                                              |
--------------------------------------------------------------------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 03:42:55 1996
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	for <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu> id XAA09660; Thu, 12 Sep 1996 23:41:14 -0400
Received: from allnight (cis1-p3.everett.net [205.134.193.99]) by post.everett.net (8.6.11/8.6.9) with SMTP id UAA28259 for <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>; Thu, 12 Sep 1996 20:39:07 -0700
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 20:39:07 -0700
Message-Id: <199609130339.UAA28259@post.everett.net>
From: Johnny <allnight@everett.net>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re[2]: Re[2]: O2 Sensor-Leaded gas
In-Reply-To: <199609121757.NAA04787@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
References: <199609121757.NAA04787@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
MIME-Version: 1.0
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Reply-To: diy_efi

That's great for those that can get to the web site. I still seem to
have a problem connecting to it.

-j-

At [Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:57:22 -0400]
John S Gwynne <jsg@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu> wrote:

jsg> --------
jsg> 
jsg> |>out there that was supposed to be able to deal with lead. I have searched
jsg> |>through all my old archives and can't find that old thread. Does anyone
jsg> |>else remember this or am I just losing it?
jsg> |>
jsg> |>Darrell??? do you remember this thread?
jsg> |
jsg> |Yeah, I remember the thread, I think it was someone in NZ who brought it up,
jsg> |since they still use leaded gas.    It was someone whose name I haven't seen
jsg> |around lately.  All I remember was that they had found some stock sensor
jsg> |that lasted longer than most others, but I don't recollect which it was.  I
jsg> |also recollect that they'd wake up if you used unleaded gas for a while...
jsg> |I'll check through some of my old folders and see if anything shakes out...
jsg> 
jsg> Come on guys.... that's why I made the archive searchable
jsg> through http://efi332. Do a subject search for "lead" and the
jsg> whole thread is there! It took several days to put the search
jsg> engine and html stuff together.... USE IT! :) 
jsg> 
jsg>                                        John S Gwynne
jsg>                                           Gwynne.1@osu.edu
jsg> _______________________________________________________________________________
jsg>                T h e   O h i o - S t a t e   U n i v e r s i t y
jsg>     ElectroScience Laboratory, 1320 Kinnear Road, Columbus, Ohio 43212, USA
jsg>                 Telephone: (614) 292-7981 * Fax: (614) 292-7297
jsg> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
jsg> 
jsg> 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 03:42:55 1996
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 20:34:44 -0700
Message-Id: <199609130334.UAA28190@post.everett.net>
From: Johnny <allnight@everett.net>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: How to join the group?
In-Reply-To: <m0v1JNx-000VvhC@comm.amtsgi.bc.ca>
References: <m0v1JNx-000VvhC@comm.amtsgi.bc.ca>
MIME-Version: 1.0
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Reply-To: diy_efi

You have been added to the list... I hope your mailbox can handle it. ;-)

-j-

At [Thu, 12 Sep 96 14:33 PDT]
iii@islandnet.com (Intec Inoventures Inc.) wrote:

iii> Hi,
iii> 
iii> I am interested in joining this mail group.  How do I do this?
iii> 
iii> I'm working on a small controller targeted to the automotive and robotics
iii> industries (HC16 based).
iii> 
iii> Wade Barnes, Electronics Tech.
iii> --------------------------------------------------------------------
iii>     MC68HC16 Embedded Controllers and Software Development Tools    |
iii>               WebPg   http://www.islandnet.com/~iii                 |
iii> --------------------------------------------------------------------
iii> Intec Inoventures Inc.       Phone   604-721-5150                   |
iii> 2751 Arbutus Road            Fax         721-4191                   |
iii> Victoria   BC  V8N 5X7                                              |
iii> Canada                                                              |
iii> --------------------------------------------------------------------
iii> 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 04:03:14 1996
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Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 20:56:46 -0700
Message-Id: <199609130356.UAA28412@post.everett.net>
From: Johnny <allnight@everett.net>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: EFI332 home page
In-Reply-To: <B537094108C@ean2.mecheng.nottingham.ac.uk>
References: <B537094108C@ean2.mecheng.nottingham.ac.uk>
MIME-Version: 1.0
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Reply-To: diy_efi

Here's what I get:

Description: Microsoft Windows Sockets Version 1.1.
System Status: Running on Windows 95.
Version: 0101 0101     Max Sockets: 256
 
Local Hostname: allnight
Local Address: 205.134.193.99
 
Official Name: www.iris.swin.edu.au
IP Address: 136.186.89.23
 
PING www.iris.swin.edu.au (136.186.89.23): 50 data bytes
timed out
timed out
timed out
 
PING Statistics for www.iris.swin.edu.au 
3 packets transmitted, 0 packets received, 100% packet loss
 
TraceRoute www.iris.swin.edu.au (136.186.89.23)
timed out
 1    177    177 205.134.193.253 cis0.everett.net
 2    181      4 205.134.193.254 cis1.everett.net
 3      *      * timed out
 4    208     27 204.71.144.33   cisco-1.nwrain.net
 5    203     -5 204.70.52.17    border1-serial2-2.Seattle.mci.net
 6    337    134 204.70.2.145    core1-fddi-0.Seattle.mci.net
 7      *      * timed out
 8    240    -97 204.70.3.162    border2-fddi0-0.SanFrancisco.mci.net
 9    219    -21 204.70.33.10    timed out
10    420    201 204.70.204.6    telstra.SanFrancisco.mci.net
11    428      8 139.130.249.226 timed out
12    470     42 139.130.249.214 Hssi6-0.lon-core1.Melbourne.telstra.net
13    460    -10 139.130.239.228 vic.gw.au
14    431    -29 139.130.239.58  national.gw.au
15    434      3 139.130.38.2    vic2.gw.au
16    455     21 203.21.131.14   nis-rmi-swi.vrn.EDU.AU
17    467     12 203.21.131.58   swinburne-gw.vrn.EDU.AU
18    449    -18 136.186.1.60    tafe-e2.gw.swin.edu.au
19      *      * timed out
20      *      * timed out
21      *      * timed out
22      *      * timed out
23      *      * timed out
24      *      * timed out
25      *      * timed out
26      *      * timed out
27      *      * timed out
28      *      * timed out
29      *      * timed out
30      *      * timed out
not reached

I have never been able to connect to the "new" site. Anybody down under
got a clue on this one?

-j-


At [Thu, 12 Sep 1996 09:18:09 GMT0BST]
M HILL <EAXMJHI@ean2.mecheng.nottingham.ac.uk> wrote:

EAXMJHI> Has something happened to the server for the efi332 homepage?  I have 
EAXMJHI> been trying to get there for the last few days with no success.
EAXMJHI> 
EAXMJHI> Martin 
EAXMJHI> 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 05:08:42 1996
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From: dzorde@aesprodata.com.au
Received:  by guardian.aesprodata.com.au with UUCP (5.65/1.2-eef)
	id AA05590; Fri, 13 Sep 96 12:04:35 +0800
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	id AA842645826 Fri, 13 Sep 96 13:17:06 
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 96 13:17:06 
Message-Id: <9608138426.AA842645826@afcperth.aesprodata.com.au>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re[5]: O2 Sensor-Leaded gas
Sender: owner-diy_efi
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: diy_efi


     Me too, I can get to it (I think) but it says there is nothing there. 


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re[2]: Re[2]: O2 Sensor-Leaded gas
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
Date:    9/13/96 1:07 PM


That's great for those that can get to the web site. I still seem to 
have a problem connecting to it.
     
-j-
     
At [Thu, 12 Sep 1996 13:57:22 -0400]
John S Gwynne <jsg@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu> wrote:
     
jsg> --------
jsg> 
jsg> |>out there that was supposed to be able to deal with lead. I have searched
jsg> |>through all my old archives and can't find that old thread. Does anyone 
jsg> |>else remember this or am I just losing it?
jsg> |>
jsg> |>Darrell??? do you remember this thread? 
jsg> |
jsg> |Yeah, I remember the thread, I think it was someone in NZ who brought it 
up ,
jsg> |since they still use leaded gas.    It was someone whose name I haven't 
see n
jsg> |around lately.  All I remember was that they had found some stock sensor 
jsg> |that lasted longer than most others, but I don't recollect which it was.  
I
     
jsg> |also recollect that they'd wake up if you used unleaded gas for a while...
jsg> |I'll check through some of my old folders and see if anything shakes 
out...
     
jsg> 
jsg> Come on guys.... that's why I made the archive searchable 
jsg> through http://efi332. Do a subject search for "lead" and the 
jsg> whole thread is there! It took several days to put the search 
jsg> engine and html stuff together.... USE IT! :) 
jsg> 
jsg>                                        John S Gwynne
jsg>                                           Gwynne.1@osu.edu
jsg> 
____________________________________________________________________________ ___
jsg>                T h e   O h i o - S t a t e   U n i v e r s i t y
jsg>     ElectroScience Laboratory, 1320 Kinnear Road, Columbus, Ohio 43212, USA
jsg>                 Telephone: (614) 292-7981 * Fax: (614) 292-7297
jsg> 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---
jsg> 
jsg> 
     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 05:08:57 1996
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Message-Id: <199609130506.BAA07161@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
To: diy_efi
Subject: archive search; was Re[2]: Re[2]: O2 Sensor-Leaded gas
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 01:06:29 -0400
From: John S Gwynne <jsg@esl>
Sender: owner-diy_efi
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: diy_efi

--------

|That's great for those that can get to the web site. I still seem to
|have a problem connecting to it.

Are we talking about the same web site?

http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

Not Andrew's site. Andrew tried to mirror his site here, but apparently
he has the same problem we have going the other way.

If you really can not ftp or telnet to OSU's efi332, I would like to
know about it. 

                                       John S Gwynne
                                          Gwynne.1@osu.edu
_______________________________________________________________________________
               T h e   O h i o - S t a t e   U n i v e r s i t y
    ElectroScience Laboratory, 1320 Kinnear Road, Columbus, Ohio 43212, USA
                Telephone: (614) 292-7981 * Fax: (614) 292-7297
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 05:41:15 1996
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Message-Id: <199609130538.BAA27884@gold.interlog.com>
Comments: Authenticated sender is <acazin@mail.interlog.com>
From: acazin@interlog.com
To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 01:39:47 +0000
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
Subject: Re: MAP sensor
Priority: normal
X-mailer: Pegasus Mail for Windows (v2.33)
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Reply-To: diy_efi

> I would like to add MAP sensing to my system.  What's a good MAP to use,
> how much is it, where does one get it (if it's for a vehicle, I suppose
> a parts house), and how does it work?

The Ford EEC-IV MAP sensor is a good one. It is a "smart" sensor, 
with on-board signal processing and it has digital output, a "near" 
perfect square wave (49-51 % duty cycle). It is rugged and it lives 
well in the engine compartment and a long vacuum hose from the 
intake manifold does not bother it.

Square wave output makes it easy to process. Output frequency is from 
about 159 Hz at 0 in. vacuum (key ON, engine OFF or wide open 
throttle, same as baro pressure output) to around 102 Hz at 21 in. 
vacuum (idle).

Frequency vs. vacuum output is pretty linear for a good sensor.

Alex Cazin
Alzec Automotive Enginnering Ltd.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 05:47:49 1996
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From: dzorde@aesprodata.com.au
Received:  by guardian.aesprodata.com.au with UUCP (5.65/1.2-eef)
	id AA06125; Fri, 13 Sep 96 12:46:47 +0800
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	id AA842648447 Fri, 13 Sep 96 14:00:47 
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 96 14:00:47 
Message-Id: <9608138426.AA842648447@afcperth.aesprodata.com.au>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re[2]: EFI332 home page
Sender: owner-diy_efi
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: diy_efi


     After checking with our admin manager, we can reach Swin.edu, but we 
     don't get a reply.
     
     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: EFI332 home page
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
Date:    9/13/96 1:43 PM


Here's what I get:
     
Description: Microsoft Windows Sockets Version 1.1. 
System Status: Running on Windows 95.
Version: 0101 0101     Max Sockets: 256
     
Local Hostname: allnight
Local Address: 205.134.193.99
     
Official Name: www.iris.swin.edu.au
IP Address: 136.186.89.23
     
PING www.iris.swin.edu.au (136.186.89.23): 50 data bytes 
timed out
timed out
timed out
     
PING Statistics for www.iris.swin.edu.au 
3 packets transmitted, 0 packets received, 100% packet loss
     
TraceRoute www.iris.swin.edu.au (136.186.89.23) 
timed out
 1    177    177 205.134.193.253 cis0.everett.net 
 2    181      4 205.134.193.254 cis1.everett.net 
 3      *      * timed out
 4    208     27 204.71.144.33   cisco-1.nwrain.net
 5    203     -5 204.70.52.17    border1-serial2-2.Seattle.mci.net 
 6    337    134 204.70.2.145    core1-fddi-0.Seattle.mci.net
 7      *      * timed out
 8    240    -97 204.70.3.162    border2-fddi0-0.SanFrancisco.mci.net 
 9    219    -21 204.70.33.10    timed out
10    420    201 204.70.204.6    telstra.SanFrancisco.mci.net 
11    428      8 139.130.249.226 timed out
12    470     42 139.130.249.214 Hssi6-0.lon-core1.Melbourne.telstra.net 
13    460    -10 139.130.239.228 vic.gw.au
14    431    -29 139.130.239.58  national.gw.au 
15    434      3 139.130.38.2    vic2.gw.au
16    455     21 203.21.131.14   nis-rmi-swi.vrn.EDU.AU 
17    467     12 203.21.131.58   swinburne-gw.vrn.EDU.AU 
18    449    -18 136.186.1.60    tafe-e2.gw.swin.edu.au 
19      *      * timed out
20      *      * timed out
21      *      * timed out
22      *      * timed out
23      *      * timed out
24      *      * timed out
25      *      * timed out
26      *      * timed out
27      *      * timed out
28      *      * timed out
29      *      * timed out
30      *      * timed out
not reached
     
I have never been able to connect to the "new" site. Anybody down under 
got a clue on this one?
     
-j-
     
     
At [Thu, 12 Sep 1996 09:18:09 GMT0BST]
M HILL <EAXMJHI@ean2.mecheng.nottingham.ac.uk> wrote:
     
EAXMJHI> Has something happened to the server for the efi332 homepage?  I have 
EAXMJHI> been trying to get there for the last few days with no success. 
EAXMJHI> 
EAXMJHI> Martin 
EAXMJHI> 
     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 06:20:47 1996
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 08:01:46 +0100
From: Johan Rodling <Johan.Rodling@Jrt.SE>
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To: DIY_EFI
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Can some give me a hint about VE, what it is and how to calculate it. Since it's involved in some calculations regarding MAF etc, I just need to know.

Thank's for all the help

	/JR


Unix is simple, but it takes a genius to understand its simplicity. -DMR

'74 Jaguar XJ5.3 L (V12)
------------------------------------------------------
Johan Rodling             Email:  Johan.Rodling@Jrt.SE
JoRoTech HB               Phone:  +46 (0)18 36 90 91      
Borje, Stromsborg         Fax:    +46 (0)18 36 91 02      
S-755 92 Uppsala, Sweden  Mobile: +46 (0)708 385 380

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 07:00:48 1996
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Date: 13 Sep 96 02:55:38 EDT
From: Jim Steck <72614.557@CompuServe.COM>
To: DIY-EFI digest <DIY_EFI>
Subject: water injection
Message-ID: <960913065538_72614.557_IHD69-2@CompuServe.COM>
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>>I Remember two relevant curves - holding fuel constant, power went up
>>linearly with water on a percent by percent basis.  100% fuel 10% water,
>> + 10% power etc. until a practical limit of about 50% was reached.
>>
>>Holding power constant, each percent of water displaced a percent of
>>fuel until about a 50 50 ratio was reached.

> So if I went out to my car and fed my 455ci engine a 50/50 mix of water/
> fuel I'd get the same power?  I have a hard time believing this at full
throttle
> plus I cant afford that much water :(, but will it work for part throttle, 
> ie cruising, speeds?  I think I can get around the mineral buildups with
> a weekly trip to the track w/ high octane gas.....

If you're remembering Ricardo's curves, you've got the power part right,
but manifold pressure was a variable in his experiment.  The curve plotted
power at the manifold pressure that resulted in the onset of detonation.  
First he increased the amount of excess fuel to the point of maximum 
usefulness, then he started adding water and found that he could reduce 
the amount of excess fuel (beyond stoicometric) roughly equal to the 
amount of water that was added without affecting the results . . . so by 
increasing the amount of water, he was able to increase the manifold 
pressure . . . which increased horsepower.  It is not the injection of 
water that increased horsepower, but the increased resistance to 
detonation which allowed higher manifold pressures to be used.

The full description of his results can be found in the fourth edition of 
Sir Henry Ricardo's "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine" 
pages 165-171.  (only in the fourth edition)

Jim Steck
AutoComponenti


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 07:24:35 1996
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To: diy_efi
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     Sorry John, clarification.  It is Andrew's site that is un-reachable, 
     yours works fine.
     
     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: archive search; was Re[2]: Re[2]: O2 Sensor-Leaded gas
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
Date:    9/13/96 2:36 PM


--------
     
|That's great for those that can get to the web site. I still seem to 
|have a problem connecting to it.
     
Are we talking about the same web site?
     
http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
     
Not Andrew's site. Andrew tried to mirror his site here, but apparently 
he has the same problem we have going the other way.
     
If you really can not ftp or telnet to OSU's efi332, I would like to 
know about it. 
     
                                       John S Gwynne
                                          Gwynne.1@osu.edu
_______________________________________________________________________________
               T h e   O h i o - S t a t e   U n i v e r s i t y
    ElectroScience Laboratory, 1320 Kinnear Road, Columbus, Ohio 43212, USA
                Telephone: (614) 292-7981 * Fax: (614) 292-7297
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
     
     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 07:25:03 1996
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From: "Hans Hintermaier" <HIHA@GNF99M.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de>
Organization:  LMU-GRH Dept. of Neurology
To: diy_efi
Date:          Fri, 13 Sep 1996 09:23:00 MET
Subject: Re: Radial- Diametral Head
Priority: normal
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Hi Todd,
> It incorporated what looked like two camshafts, but they were also the
> ports and valves as well.
> They were basically ball valves, that opened and closed the port from
> the head, rotating at 1/4 crank speed I think.  The shape of the opening
> in the ball valve determined the valve events.
> They had these things on a few 4 valve mercedes engines and had them
> passing emmissions, but with a 20% increase in overall power.  The
> torque curves looked great as well.
> The only scary thing was the seat.  Is was a spring loaded seat, for a
> good seal from the combustion chamber that rode on the rotary ball valve
> thingy.  I could definately see those things getting torn up.  But they
> "Said" that they had already run them in the 50,000 and 100,000 mile EPA
> durability tests and "got by"

Alternative valve systems will return in near future, but I won't be 
the one to develop them. There were many reliable things developed in 
WW2. The Noratlas had a 14cyl. radial with disc-valves (?).
Here in germany car industry will be the last to change anything. 
They are too conservative.
Have a look Zoche aerodiesel web page:
http://193.26.97.194  Maybe this will be the future of car diesel also!

Regards
Hans

hiha@ brain.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de
Munich / Germany

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 12:32:54 1996
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 07:17:00 +0000
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Radial- Diametral Head
To: diy_efi
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Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059
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-> Have a look Zoche aerodiesel web page:
-> http://193.26.97.194  Maybe this will be the future of car diesel
-> also!

 I have some a 1940s engineering book which makes a strong case for the
aviation Diesel.  Higher efficiency, Diesel fuel lighter than avgas,
less chance of fire in crash situations, etc.  It probably would have
happened, at least for civilian aircraft, if not for the turboprop and
turbojet engines, which used basically the same fuel and were smaller
and more reliable than piston engines.
                                                    

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 12:52:25 1996
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To: diy_efi, dibble@hagar.ph.utexas.edu
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: RE: Altitude Compensation
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>On Thu, 12 Sep 1996, tom cloud wrote:

>> what do i know ??  As I understand:  the ratio of O2 and N2 are
>> the same at any altitude us puny homo saps (I know, speak for my-
>> self) can survive at (oops, poor english).

And on the same day, James Weiler replied:

>Absolutely ! and don't let anyone else tell you any different ! It's the 
>partial presures of each gas constituent that decrease with higher 
>altitude but the ratios of the gases stay the same.  If they were 
>different how would it stay that way over time??  There is a law called 
>Brownian motion that dictates that all molecules will proceed from a 
>place of high concentration to a place of low concentration until they 
>are equally distributed.  This is our atmosphere and it's had lots of 
>time to equilibrate.  

To which, I reply replied

"And I thought Brownian movement was when those little girls are selling
cookies."

tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 13:23:21 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: MAP sensor
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>> I would like to add MAP sensing to my system.  What's a good MAP to use,
>> how much is it, where does one get it (if it's for a vehicle, I suppose
>> a parts house), and how does it work?

Alex Cazin replied:

>The Ford EEC-IV MAP sensor is a good one. It is a "smart" sensor, 
>with on-board signal processing and it has digital output, a "near" 
>perfect square wave (49-51 % duty cycle). It is rugged and it lives 
>well in the engine compartment and a long vacuum hose from the 
>intake manifold does not bother it.
>
>Square wave output makes it easy to process. Output frequency is from 
>about 159 Hz at 0 in. vacuum (key ON, engine OFF or wide open 
>throttle, same as baro pressure output) to around 102 Hz at 21 in. 
>vacuum (idle).
>
>Frequency vs. vacuum output is pretty linear for a good sensor.
>

Thanks, Alex.  Now, I'll just need to find out how much it costs,
what it looks like, how it mounts, etc.

To followers of the thread, Todd Knighton recently posted:

"Newark Electronics has the Motorola Sensors.  They're not to be put in
"the engine compartment.  They're not ruggedized.  We've been putting
"them inside the Motronics unit inside the car and they've worked well. 
"the MPX4250A is a 2.5 bar absolute sensor, so it's good to about 20psi
"and absolute vacuum.  They make a MPX4100A, I think that's the number,
"for normally aspirated vehicles, never ordered that one.  These are all
"temperature trimmed and compensated sensors so they aren't affected by
"different temps like most MAPs are."

The data sheets for these are on the Motorola web page,
(http://motserv.indirect.com/) and they're listed in the Newark catalog
for about $26.  They have a linear voltage output (not freq), are
small and have different methods for connecting them to the pressure
source to be measured (probably via a hose).

Now, which to use -- and what does one do with the data re EFI ??
The analog output might be ideal for me to augment the control on
the Holley aftermarket system I already have.  For a digital
system, will simply A-D.

Now, the frequency output of the OEM unit -- seems that
that would entail either an F-V convertor and then A-D or an
interrupt driven timer circuit that would return a number of counts
proportional to the period of the sensor output.  Any suggestions?

Tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 13:44:47 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: MAP sensor
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>How does it work:  To be honest I don't understand the chemistry of how a 
>signal is generated proportional to the pressure that is exerted on the 
>sensor.  I do know that the MAP output is in Hz

Pressure sensors are commonly made using a diaphragm as one plate
of a capacitor -- when pressure is exerted on it, the capacitance
changes.  The easiest way to read capacitance is to make it part of
an L-C tank or an R-C network in an oscillator.  Then, changes in
capacitance cause a change in the frequency of oscillation, which
can be directly related to the pressure on the diaphragm.

Then, if one side of the diaphragm has a vacuum on it, the output
is considered 'absolute' (PSIA).  If it is exposed to the ambient
atmospheric pressure, it is called 'gauge' (PSIG).  Of course, these
terms apply to any type pressure sensor -- i.e. whether the reading is
absolute or gauge.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 15:19:15 1996
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 08:10:51 -0700
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From: Johnny <allnight@everett.net>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re[2]: archive search; was Re[2]: Re[2]: O2 Sensor-Leaded gas
In-Reply-To: <9608138426.AA842653607@afcperth.aesprodata.com.au>
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Jeeez, I go away for a couple weeks on vacation and I get back and someone has
changed the furniture around on me again. No problem reaching the US
site... still wondering what the problem is going south though? Thanks
for setting up the archive.

-j-

At [Fri, 13 Sep 96 15:26:47 ]
dzorde@aesprodata.com.au wrote:

dzorde> 
dzorde>      Sorry John, clarification.  It is Andrew's site that is un-reachable, 
dzorde>      yours works fine.
dzorde>      
dzorde>      Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au
dzorde> 
dzorde> 
dzorde> ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
dzorde> Subject: archive search; was Re[2]: Re[2]: O2 Sensor-Leaded gas
dzorde> Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
dzorde> Date:    9/13/96 2:36 PM
dzorde> 
dzorde> 
dzorde> --------
dzorde>      
dzorde> |That's great for those that can get to the web site. I still seem to 
dzorde> |have a problem connecting to it.
dzorde>      
dzorde> Are we talking about the same web site?
dzorde>      
dzorde> http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
dzorde>      
dzorde> Not Andrew's site. Andrew tried to mirror his site here, but apparently 
dzorde> he has the same problem we have going the other way.
dzorde>      
dzorde> If you really can not ftp or telnet to OSU's efi332, I would like to 
dzorde> know about it. 
dzorde>      
dzorde>                                        John S Gwynne
dzorde>                                           Gwynne.1@osu.edu
dzorde> _______________________________________________________________________________
dzorde>                T h e   O h i o - S t a t e   U n i v e r s i t y
dzorde>     ElectroScience Laboratory, 1320 Kinnear Road, Columbus, Ohio 43212, USA
dzorde>                 Telephone: (614) 292-7981 * Fax: (614) 292-7297
dzorde> -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
dzorde>      
dzorde>      
dzorde> 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 15:25:38 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'tom cloud'" <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>,
        "dibble@peaches.ph.utexas.edu" <dibble@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>,
        "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: Altitude Compensation
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 16:40:32 +-200
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And I thought BM was just a technical description of my pool playing... =
Oh well.


But seriously... I agree oil and vinegar make salad dressing, but it =
does need to be shaken to get the relevant flavour, and if you dont =
shake the atmosphere, it tends to separate. Not a lot, but it does, and =
the light fractions float.

Mark
=20

----------
From:  tom cloud[SMTP:cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu]
Sent:  Friday, September 13, 1996 2:50 PM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu; dibble@peaches.ph.utexas.edu
Subject:  RE: Altitude Compensation

>On Thu, 12 Sep 1996, tom cloud wrote:

>> what do i know ??  As I understand:  the ratio of O2 and N2 are
>> the same at any altitude us puny homo saps (I know, speak for my-
>> self) can survive at (oops, poor english).

And on the same day, James Weiler replied:

>Absolutely ! and don't let anyone else tell you any different ! It's =
the=20
>partial presures of each gas constituent that decrease with higher=20
>altitude but the ratios of the gases stay the same.  If they were=20
>different how would it stay that way over time??  There is a law called =

>Brownian motion that dictates that all molecules will proceed from a=20
>place of high concentration to a place of low concentration until they=20
>are equally distributed.  This is our atmosphere and it's had lots of=20
>time to equilibrate. =20

To which, I reply replied

"And I thought Brownian movement was when those little girls are selling
cookies."

tom




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 15:56:18 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'tom cloud'" <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>,
        "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: MAP sensor
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 17:43:45 +-200
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Just a note:

The sensors you are talking about have a nipple for a push fit hose, or =
two nipples in the case of the differential ones.  If you want to get a =
pipe thro' a metal box (shielding or whatever), look at the tank =
fittings for model airplanes... they are handy, especially the bulkhead =
ones with a threaded bit in the middle and a nipple on each end, so that =
you can build a box with all the local electronics inside, and not have =
to open it t connect/disconnect the pressure hose.

Just an idea

Mark

----------
From:  tom cloud[SMTP:cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu]
Sent:  Friday, September 13, 1996 3:20 PM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Re: MAP sensor

>> I would like to add MAP sensing to my system.  What's a good MAP to =
use,
>> how much is it, where does one get it (if it's for a vehicle, I =
suppose
>> a parts house), and how does it work?

Alex Cazin replied:

>The Ford EEC-IV MAP sensor is a good one. It is a "smart" sensor,=20
>with on-board signal processing and it has digital output, a "near"=20
>perfect square wave (49-51 % duty cycle). It is rugged and it lives=20
>well in the engine compartment and a long vacuum hose from the=20
>intake manifold does not bother it.
>
>Square wave output makes it easy to process. Output frequency is from=20
>about 159 Hz at 0 in. vacuum (key ON, engine OFF or wide open=20
>throttle, same as baro pressure output) to around 102 Hz at 21 in.=20
>vacuum (idle).
>
>Frequency vs. vacuum output is pretty linear for a good sensor.
>

Thanks, Alex.  Now, I'll just need to find out how much it costs,
what it looks like, how it mounts, etc.

To followers of the thread, Todd Knighton recently posted:

"Newark Electronics has the Motorola Sensors.  They're not to be put in
"the engine compartment.  They're not ruggedized.  We've been putting
"them inside the Motronics unit inside the car and they've worked well.=20
"the MPX4250A is a 2.5 bar absolute sensor, so it's good to about 20psi
"and absolute vacuum.  They make a MPX4100A, I think that's the number,
"for normally aspirated vehicles, never ordered that one.  These are all
"temperature trimmed and compensated sensors so they aren't affected by
"different temps like most MAPs are."

The data sheets for these are on the Motorola web page,
(http://motserv.indirect.com/) and they're listed in the Newark catalog
for about $26.  They have a linear voltage output (not freq), are
small and have different methods for connecting them to the pressure
source to be measured (probably via a hose).

Now, which to use -- and what does one do with the data re EFI ??
The analog output might be ideal for me to augment the control on
the Holley aftermarket system I already have.  For a digital
system, will simply A-D.

Now, the frequency output of the OEM unit -- seems that
that would entail either an F-V convertor and then A-D or an
interrupt driven timer circuit that would return a number of counts
proportional to the period of the sensor output.  Any suggestions?

Tom




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 16:45:24 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Radial- Diametral Head
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 09:36:58 -0700
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Remember the Reichstag

----------
> From: Dave Williams <dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us>
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: Radial- Diametral Head
> Date: Friday, September 13, 1996 12:17 AM
> 
> 
> -> Have a look Zoche aerodiesel web page:
> -> http://193.26.97.194  Maybe this will be the future of car diesel
> -> also!
> 
>  I have some a 1940s engineering book which makes a strong case for the
> aviation Diesel.  

Just prior to the end of W.W.II, Napier Deltic built the "ultimate
IC engine.  It was a 12 cylinder horizontally opposed 2 cycle 
diesel with 2 stage supercharging, inter and after cooling, the
exhaust was compounded and the excess was funneled into
a nozzle to develop 750 foot pounds thrust. It developed 
about 3500 HP and weighed less, thus breaking the 1 hp
per pound barrier.   Problem was the gas turbine could make
similar power, much lower weight and much simpler, so the
IC engine was relegated to cheap, low power apps and exists
today in ac use only because the lawyers have made it
impossible to change anything without a billion $ lawsuit.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 16:57:25 1996
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 12:52:38 -0400
To: diy_efi
From: Chuck Tomlinson <tomlinsc@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RE: Altitude Compensation
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Mark Pitts wrote:
>
>But seriously... I agree oil and vinegar make salad dressing, but it does
need to be shaken to get the relevant flavour, and if you dont shake the
atmosphere, it tends to separate. Not a lot, but it does, and the light
fractions float.

Near the ground, the atmosphere *is* shaken (and stirred) by convection
currents.  The fact that air temp near the surface (<20,000') decreases with
increasing altitude *guarantees* constant convective mixing. Convection
mixes the air vertically, and winds mix the air horizontally.

Up above 60,000' there are layers of the atmosphere that do not have a
significant vertical temperature gradient.  Convective mixing is minimal
there, but my car won't run at that altitude :-)

Where we live and drive, the mole fraction of oxygen in air is constant at
about 21%.

--
Chuck Tomlinson


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 16:59:42 1996
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 12:54:02 +0100
From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
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To: diy_efi
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> Transistor and CD systems only use the points for switching an electronic
> circuit.  There is no 'real' inductance attached to the points any-
> more -- therefore no real need for a cap.  In fact, the cap will
> slow down the rise/fall of the signal, so it really should NOT be there.

When I converted my boat from points to an MSD ignition, the tech folks
at MSD said that the cap can be left in place with no ill effects.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 17:14:37 1996
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Date: 	Fri, 13 Sep 1996 08:48:15 -0700
To: diy_efi
From: peter paul fenske <pfenske@direct.ca>
Subject: MISC sensors
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HI ALL

With the interest in Map sensors will try and dig out data sheets

For the ford the following

in. (HG)        kpa          Hz

0               0               159
3               10.2            150
6               20.3            141
9               30.5            133
12              40.6            125
15              50.8            117
18              61.0            109
21              71.7            102
24              81.3            95      
27              91.5            88      
30              101.6           80

The gm Map sensor stamped #460 is similiar but has a analog
output. 

20 KPa gives about 0.9 volt, with 101 kpa about 4.9 volts.
Readily available.

sorry but the spec sheet is at work.
Will post it later
GL : peter



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 17:25:50 1996
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Date: 	Fri, 13 Sep 1996 08:59:04 -0700
To: diy_efi
From: peter paul fenske <pfenske@direct.ca>
Subject: Vats last word
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Hiya ALL

For the people with lots of resistors here are the VATS resistor
values

1, 400 ohms     2, 525 ohms     3, 680 ohms     4, 885 ohms
5, 1,130 ohms   6, 1,465 ohms   7, 1,860 ohms   8, 2,360 ohms
9, 3025 ohms    10, 3,730 ohms  11, 4,750 ohms  12, 6,050 ohms
13, 7,500 ohms  14, 9,540 ohms  15, 11,790 ohms

This should let the dedicated DIY er do it to Passkey I
It doesn't really help anyone else since it would probably take
a while

Later: peter


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 17:46:57 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Math Question
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 10:45:06 -0700
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Given  A. 600 PSI pressure from TDC to BDC
          B. Any piston diameter
          C. Any stroke
          D. any RPM you chose 
 
Whats the peak torque and HP possible?

Not a trick question, just use any numbers you chose.  600
PSI is the pressure of little old fashioned saturated steam at 
about 440 degrees f.   Raise the temp to 900 with super heat
and you get  1200 PSI.  These are commercial production 
steam plant values.  For extra credit, look up and plug in the
PSI values for the temperatures actually present at combustion.

Velocity does not matter - don't even think about it.  Consider 
the RPM limit to be whatever the physical destruction flyapart 
limit is of your engine. Steam will make 20,000 miles an hour 
plus because thats what shoves the shuttle into space. 

Still clueless? What is the result of burning pure liquid oxygen 
and pure liquid hydrogen with no nitrogen, carbon 
or other contaminants present?

After thinking about the numbers, you can begin to understand
the fascination with water fuel blends, injections, mixs, and 
what ever and why,from since the dawn of the Internal Combustion
engine, engineers and experimenters keep coming back to it and
not just as an anti-detontant.

And for practical applications about how much power is truly available
from a small piston, check out the last generation of railroad steam
engines.  A couple of smallish pistons (displacement compared to the 
multiple diesel engines that replaced them) moving slowly (thinks tens to
a couple hundred rpm max) drove 700,000 LB plus locomotives to speeds
over a hundred miles an hour dragging loads of up to 10,000 tons behind
them - depending on the speed.  It took 3 or 4 1500 HP diesels to replace
them and they still didn't quite make the power.  And by the way, the peak
steam pressure on road locomotives seldom exceeded 300 PSI!!!!!!

Remember the Reichstag

----------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 18:57:28 1996
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Date: 	Fri, 13 Sep 1996 10:34:45 -0700
To: diy_efi
From: peter paul fenske <pfenske@direct.ca>
Subject: Map Sensors
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HI All

FYI the part number for the GM Map sensor is 2503679 . Stamped near the
connector is the number 460. This was used in GM applications from
1984 to 1992 so should be common in wrecking yards. Uses three conn.
GND, + 5V, and signal. Let me know if you want the pinout.

The part number for the Baro sensor is 1600683, stamped 833. Recognized
by a piece of foam on the pressure port. 

Here is cal data for baro.

100 Kpa, 4.9V   90 Kpa, 4.4V    80 Kpa, 3.8V    70 Kpa, 3.3V
60 Kpa, 2.7V    50 Kpa, 2.2V    40 Kpa, 1.7V    30 Kpa, 1.1V
20 Kpa, 0.6V    10 Kpa, 0.3V

Check these carefully, seem to remember they might be for the Map.

It is relatively easy to make a cal chart using a Mytec tester.

GL: peter
I"ll put out more sensor info but its at work right now.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 19:37:58 1996
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Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 15:33:34 -0400
To: diy_efi
From: Chuck Tomlinson <tomlinsc@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Math Question
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Robert J. Harris wrote:
>
>And for practical applications about how much power is truly available
>from a small piston, check out the last generation of railroad steam
>engines.  A couple of smallish pistons (displacement compared to the 
>multiple diesel engines that replaced them) moving slowly (thinks tens to
>a couple hundred rpm max) drove 700,000 LB plus locomotives to speeds
>over a hundred miles an hour dragging loads of up to 10,000 tons behind
>them - depending on the speed.  It took 3 or 4 1500 HP diesels to replace
>them and they still didn't quite make the power.  And by the way, the peak
>steam pressure on road locomotives seldom exceeded 300 PSI!!!!!!

If steam engines are so great, why were they replaced with diesels?


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 20:05:32 1996
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From: "David M Parrish" <dmp@bmesun1.MCG.EDU>
To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 16:02:59 +0000
Subject: RE: Altitude Compensation
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>From:             cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)

> "And I thought Brownian movement was when those little girls are selling
> cookies."

Well, you certainly diffused that situation.

---
David Parrish
Pun-ishmnet is it's own reward.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 13 21:54:19 1996
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"David M Parrish" <dmp@bmesun1.MCG.EDU> Wrote:
| 
| >From:             cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
| 
| > "And I thought Brownian movement was when those little girls are 
selling
| > cookies."
| 
| Well, you certainly diffused that situation.

I like puns, but that one made me groan!




Steve Ravet
sravet@bangate.compaq.com
Baby you're a genius when it comes to cooking up some chili sauce...

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep 14 03:56:24 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Math Question
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 20:48:51 -0700
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Remember the Reichstag

----------
> From: Chuck Tomlinson <tomlinsc@ix.netcom.com>
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: Math Question
> Date: Friday, September 13, 1996 12:33 PM

> If steam engines are so great, why were they replaced with diesels?

Cost, size, complexity, labor costs and unions, government policy during
WWII and sheer stupidity.  An external combustion engine for anything 
other than large marine or stationary purposes is not economically 
comparable to an internal combustion. 

BTW, the worlds land speed record was set in the first years of this
century
by a STEAM driven vehicle (the Stanley Steamer to be exact) and it was 
one hell of a lot faster than anything else period.  Won't quote how much
over
a hundred miles an hour it was because some anally retentive person will 
expend the night trying to correct me.

The point was, is, and always will be to try to combine the sheer  power of
a steam engine with the simplicity of an IC engine.  The use of a
locomotive
was to illustrate the power available from steam and small cylinder's not
to 
spend my life re-hashing ancient history.  Do you think that catapilar and 
others are trying to invent a cheaper fuel? Not f___ng likely.  What they 
want is a more powerful engine without increasing the size and complexity 
of the current production engines. 

And for those that think that pure technical superiority is the sole cause
of
replacement or change,  perhaps you might review the evolution of betamax
vs vhs or any other commercial decision made since moby dick was a minnow.






From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep 14 15:09:36 1996
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> Now, the frequency output of the OEM unit -- seems that
> that would entail either an F-V convertor and then A-D or an
> interrupt driven timer circuit that would return a number of counts
> proportional to the period of the sensor output.  Any suggestions?


Expect the Ford MAP to be a few $ more than a GM or Chrysler MAP. But 
the digital output means that it can be processed by the 
microprocessor directly, without A-D conversion.

So, if your control module can accept the signal, this signal is 
ready for consumption.

You could probably buy the sensor from a junk yard (I don't recommend 
it), to save a few $, but if you do, check it for proper operation.

Use a hand held vacuum pump, give it 5V and ground, and measure the 
frequency output (on the center wire of the connector) from 0 in. to 
25 in. of vacuum, in 5 in. vacuum intervals (ie. 0, 5, 10, 15, 20 
, 25).  Then, graph the freq. vs. vacuum and you should get a 
straight line (a little drifting is OK.)

Also, tap on the sensor and maybe heat it to see if "it gets lost". 
If it passes these simple tests, then the sensor is OK.

Alex Cazin

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep 14 16:07:10 1996
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>The full description of his results can be found in the fourth edition of 
>Sir Henry Ricardo's "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine" 
>pages 165-171.  (only in the fourth edition)
>

Someone (is it you) keeps quoting this book and I can't seem to find it.
I've looked everywhere in Orlando, Fl with no luck.  Any ideas?

Arnaldo E.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep 14 18:46:45 1996
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At 01:57 PM 9/12/96 -0400, you wrote:

>Come on guys.... that's why I made the archive searchable
>through http://efi332. Do a subject search for "lead" and the
>whole thread is there! It took several days to put the search
>engine and html stuff together.... USE IT! :) 
>
>                                       John S Gwynne
>                                          Gwynne.1@osu.edu

Thanx, John.  Could you maybe put a reminder about this in the monthly
subscriber thingie, just for da halibut?

regards
dn
dnorquay@awinc.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep 14 19:25:33 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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On Fri, 13 Sep 1996, Robert J. Harris wrote:

> The point was, is, and always will be to try to combine the sheer power
of > a steam engine with the simplicity of an IC engine.  The use of a >
locomotive > was to illustrate the power available from steam and small
cylinder's not > to > spend my life re-hashing ancient history. 

Isn't that part of the advantage of water injection? Add some water to 
the combustion process, make some steam, get more cylinder pressures? I 
know that water injection in avaition is mostly used during takeoff to 
prevent detonation, and thus allow an A/F ratio that produces maximum 
power, but an aviator friend of mine said you get some of the added kick 
of a steam engine. He also said engines running water injection run 
smoother, too, even under partial load conditions.



> 

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep 14 19:31:08 1996
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     Well it's time for me to challenge  some with more edu than me, but I'm
armed 
now! 
   Awhile back there was a thread about timing with various and asundry theorys
about what exactly takes place in combustion chamber, what preignition is,
detonation
etc. 
  Ed and Todd both described scenarios designed to set timing to avoid
knock. I've 
maintained that some combustion chambers aren't inclined to knock and are
best timed 
by power. My expierience with these(Fiat and some fe series Fords come to mind) 
suggests that power goes down significantly before knock, and frequently is
accompanied by surging. While it doesn't show to a great extent, the latest 
Circle track Magazine has dyno tests on the latest Ford heads that show that
timing
is best at some point well behind the knock point. I manintain that much bigger
differences than show here are available in the real world.(on track) Having
blown
engs using the knock method, it leaves me a little less than impressed.  It
still
seems that the trick is finding the sweet spot, with knock only useful for a
message
telling you which way to go, and that you need to go a ways. 
  Anyhow, do any of you guys that know about combustion chamber design want
to see
if you can agree on why this is?

   No, I'm not going to argue with you, just watch the proceedings.
 

Ps. I got another bosch d brain brain and it works.(I'm back to a v8 now!)
Can anybody tell me the difference between bosch #0 280 002 013(original) and 
the only thing I could get to replace it #0 280 002 005?

    


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep 14 19:52:53 1996
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From: Darrell Norquay <dnorquay@awinc.com>
Subject: Re: MAP sensor
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At 08:19 AM 9/13/96 -0500, Tom wrote:

>Now, I'll just need to find out how much it costs,
>what it looks like, how it mounts, etc.

Typically, most OEM MAP sensors are little black boxes around 2x3x1", with
screw mounting holes built in, a small barbed hose fitting, and a plug or
short wiring harness with plug.

>The data sheets for these are on the Motorola web page,
>(http://motserv.indirect.com/) and they're listed in the Newark catalog
>for about $26. 

The MPX4100 series have all the necessary signal conditioning built in.
They are simple 3 wire devices, voltage in (5V) , voltage out (.2v-4.9v),
ground.  Slap it in a waterproof enclosure and you're done.  They may not
like high vibration environments, so best to mount them on the firewall, in
the passenger compartment and run a hose to the manifold vacuum tree.  These
may be chaper than new OEM sensors, if you feel like doing the mechanical
bit yourself.  If you are doing an EFI circuit board, consider mounting the
sensor right on your PCB.  Vacuum hose doesn't pick up noise, whereas a
wiring harness might... One tip on these, the hose barbs provided on the
sensor are relatively fragile, one slip when pushing on the hose and it's
history.  Better to plumb this out to an external metal hose barb on the
box, to avoid the chance of breaking off the tit.

>Now, which to use -- and what does one do with the data re EFI ??
>Now, the frequency output of the OEM unit -- seems that
>that would entail either an F-V convertor and then A-D or an
>interrupt driven timer circuit that would return a number of counts
>proportional to the period of the sensor output.  Any suggestions?

Either unit will give you equivalent results, and probably don't require any
intervening components to interface to the processor.  If you have enough
analog channels on your micro, analog is probably easier.  If you are short
on analogs, and feel confident that you can write the code to measure
frequency (piece of cake on an 'HC11, but then so is analog) do it that way.
The frequency approach may have better noise immunity than analog.  Forget
the F-V stuff, it's not necessary or desireable.  For dinking around
purposes, you may be better off to get a used unit from an auto wreckers,
and see if it does what you want.  As far as what to do with the data once
you've got it, stay tuned...



regards
dn
dnorquay@awinc.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep 15 06:02:31 1996
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 1996 22:55:19 -0700
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From: Johnny <allnight@everett.net>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re[2]: Re[2]: O2 Sensor-Leaded gas
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Good idea.

-j-

At [Sat, 14 Sep 1996 11:44:14 -0700 (PDT)]
Darrell Norquay <dnorquay@awinc.com> wrote:

dnorquay> At 01:57 PM 9/12/96 -0400, you wrote:
dnorquay> 
dnorquay> >Come on guys.... that's why I made the archive searchable
dnorquay> >through http://efi332. Do a subject search for "lead" and the
dnorquay> >whole thread is there! It took several days to put the search
dnorquay> >engine and html stuff together.... USE IT! :) 
dnorquay> >
dnorquay> >                                       John S Gwynne
dnorquay> >                                          Gwynne.1@osu.edu
dnorquay> 
dnorquay> Thanx, John.  Could you maybe put a reminder about this in the monthly
dnorquay> subscriber thingie, just for da halibut?
dnorquay> 
dnorquay> regards
dnorquay> dn
dnorquay> dnorquay@awinc.com
dnorquay> 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep 15 07:12:48 1996
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From: talltom <talltom@teleport.com>
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  Allright! Anybody got any good ideas about how to reclaim the water when it's
been thru the engine?(Water isn't as plentyful as it used to be) Short of making
a deal with wppss(Another conceptually and financially bankrupt govt. -
washington public power supply system.) on a unused cooling tower that is.?
It's not that 
my old truck won't tow it, it's that at 496' in height I don't think I could 
license the trailer, never mind clearance problems.:-)
   I heard of a guy locally that put a outboard motor in a ups like truck with
a homemade rotary valve and "modern" boiler(this was in the mid 70's) There
were 
several little problems, but one of them was to much power. He hooked the crank
direct to the driveline, no tranny. You had to be careful with the throttle
because
it had a tendency to fry the 4 rear tires. Imagine grandma able to only drive
like a scalded ape because of power. At least that's the way I heard it, and 
the guy I heard it from knew the one who did it and has never been caught lying
in the 30 years I've known him.   
    Another problem is that in Ameirca cars are supposed to be babby buggies
in that
any idiot is supposed to be able to get in one and reguardless oh how stupid
he or
someone else is no one's supposed to get hurt.(I didn't do it, don't blame me)
    Superheated steam(1200psi) in the case of a ruptured pipe can be invisible,
and if you happen to walk by can cut your leg off without warning so they tell 
me at the local steam generating plant. Anyhow suffice it to say that 1200psi
anything in a vehicle is going to have a real rough time with the market, and 
govt.'s.
   


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep 15 10:32:06 1996
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Date: Sat, 14 Sep 1996 06:49:00 +0000
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Math Question
To: diy_efi
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-> If steam engines are so great, why were they replaced with diesels?

 Because if the operator of a steam engine were stupid enough he could
blow it up, greatly annoying the owner and any bystanders.  It's pretty
hard to do that with a Diesel.

 Steam prime movers are pretty much limited to stationary turbines now,
but they're still pretty important.  There's a 99.99% chance the
electricity you're using to read this message was generated by a steam
engine, whether the heat source was burning coal or nuclear fission.

====dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us========================DoD#978=======
  can you help me...help me get out of this place?...slow sedation...
ain't my style, ain't my pace...giving me a number...NINE, SEVEN, EIGHT
==5.0 RX7 -> Tyrannosaurus RX! == SAE '82 == Denizens of Doom M/C '92==
                  

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep 15 11:53:00 1996
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From: "Hans Hintermaier" <hiha@GNF99M.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de>
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Date:          Sun, 15 Sep 1996 13:08:06 +0000
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> >The full description of his results can be found in the fourth
> >edition of Sir Henry Ricardo's "The High Speed Internal Combustion
> >Engine" pages 165-171.  (only in the fourth edition)
> >
> Someone (is it you) keeps quoting this book and I can't seem to find
> it. I've looked everywhere in Orlando, Fl with no luck.  Any ideas?

> Arnaldo E.
Keep care with this book, if you find one!
Many theoretics are out of order today. e.g. "Inlet valve must open 
after the piston started moving down. The inflowing air must be 
succed into the cylinder" (my own re-translation into english)
That was in 1926, and a one liter racing-engine had about 50HP ( 
without compressor)
Today engines have both vales wide open in DTC
Regards 
Hans

hiha@ brain.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de
Munich / Germany

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep 15 16:41:27 1996
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At 11:59 PM 9/14/96 -0700, you wrote:
>
>  Allright! Anybody got any good ideas about how to reclaim the water when it's
>been thru the engine?....
>   I heard of a guy locally that put a outboard motor in a ups like truck with
>a homemade rotary valve and "modern" boiler(this was in the mid 70's) There
>were 
>several little problems, but one of them was to much power. He hooked the crank
>direct to the driveline, no tranny. You had to be careful with the throttle
>because
>it had a tendency to fry the 4 rear tires...
>Superheated steam(1200psi) in the case of a ruptured pipe can be invisible,
>and if you happen to walk by can cut your leg off without warning so they tell 
>me at the local steam generating plant. Anyhow suffice it to say that 1200psi
>anything in a vehicle is going to have a real rough time with the market, and 
>govt.'s.

Hi Tom, I'm a super critical power plant worker (761 mega watt of net
generation using 3,600psi steam at 1,005 F). I have thought about this same
concept. A simple surface condenser (air cooled radiator) would be able to
condense the vapor back to water (plant folks call it condensate). You would
need a big one in my opinion, because of the other hot gases in the exhaust
stream. If you could seperate the water vapor from the uncondensable exhaust
gases,  before going to the surface condenser, you could use a smaller unit.

Now, let's say you reclaim each and every drop of water. You've got another
technical tid bit to overcome. You will have to purify the condensate before
you put it back into your piston turbine or engine. Welcome to the
un-glamorous world of water purififation! In any steam plant, water
purification is the single most inportant item. Bad water/steam quality has
caused more high dollar damage to steam and water equipment than any thing
else, period! Yea, yea... I now some real smart person is saying "We'll just
put one of them there real fine filters in line and call it fixed." It's not
just the undissolved solids that will have to be removed. MOST of the
dissolved solids will have to go also. "Filters" that remove dissolved
solids are called Reverse Osmossis units and they cost much more than
regular filter systems. And of course, there are de-ionization systems that
will do the same.  As one DIYer said, early attempts of this have lead to
chemically fouled engines.

Cleaning the water isn't impossible. It just adds to the technical
complexity (cost) of the steam engine. Our water treatment plant is our
largest cost in our operation and mainteance budget. Keep in mind that we
reuse most of our water.

I've been within a 20 feet of leaking super critical steam, you would
recieve severe heat burns long before you got near enough to be cut by the
steam. Also, steam leaking under high pressure and temperature gives off
it's own audible warning, like a 100' cobra. This still might not be fool proof.

I'm fairly certain that supercritical steam has no place in the automotive
market, a 100-300psi system might be feasable.

Think about this, a turbine connected between the rear axle and tranny (to
assist the engine). Hot water from the engine is routed to water jacketed
exhaust manifolds for 'super heating'. This steam is then routed to the
drive shaft turbine. Low pressure steam leaves the turbine and enters the
radiator or back to the engine to be condensed or heated again. And, don't
forget the water purification unit right before the turbine. 

I'm sure there is a simple reason why this will not work, besides cost. I
don't know it. Let's see what the thermodynamic experts say.

GMD



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At 11:59 PM 9/14/96 -0700, you wrote:
>
>  Allright! Anybody got any good ideas about how to reclaim the water when it's
>been thru the engine?....
>   I heard of a guy locally that put a outboard motor in a ups like truck with
>a homemade rotary valve and "modern" boiler(this was in the mid 70's) There
>were 
>several little problems, but one of them was to much power. He hooked the crank
>direct to the driveline, no tranny. You had to be careful with the throttle
>because
>it had a tendency to fry the 4 rear tires...
>Superheated steam(1200psi) in the case of a ruptured pipe can be invisible,
>and if you happen to walk by can cut your leg off without warning so they tell 
>me at the local steam generating plant. Anyhow suffice it to say that 1200psi
>anything in a vehicle is going to have a real rough time with the market, and 
>govt.'s.

Hi Tom, I'm a super critical power plant worker (761 mega watt of net
generation using 3,600psi steam at 1,005 F). I have thought about this same
concept. A simple surface condenser (air cooled radiator) would be able to
condense the vapor back to water (plant folks call it condensate). You would
need a big one in my opinion, because of the other hot gases in the exhaust
stream. If you could seperate the water vapor from the uncondensable exhaust
gases,  before going to the surface condenser, you could use a smaller unit.

Now, let's say you reclaim each and every drop of water. You've got another
technical tid bit to overcome. You will have to purify the condensate before
you put it back into your piston turbine or engine. Welcome to the
un-glamorous world of water purififation! In any steam plant, water
purification is the single most inportant item. Bad water/steam quality has
caused more high dollar damage to steam and water equipment than any thing
else, period! Yea, yea... I now some real smart person is saying "We'll just
put one of them there real fine filters in line and call it fixed." It's not
just the undissolved solids that will have to be removed. MOST of the
dissolved solids will have to go also. "Filters" that remove dissolved
solids are called Reverse Osmossis units and they cost much more than
regular filter systems. And of course, there are de-ionization systems that
will do the same.  As one DIYer said, early attempts of this have lead to
chemically fouled engines.

Cleaning the water isn't impossible. It just adds to the technical
complexity (cost) of the steam engine. Our water treatment plant is our
largest cost in our operation and mainteance budget. Keep in mind that we
reuse most of our water.

I've been within a 20 feet of leaking super critical steam, you would
recieve severe heat burns long before you got near enough to be cut by the
steam. Also, steam leaking under high pressure and temperature gives off
it's own audible warning, like a 100' cobra. This still might not be fool proof.

I'm fairly certain that supercritical steam has no place in the automotive
market, a 100-300psi system might be feasable.

Think about this, a turbine connected between the rear axle and tranny (to
assist the engine). Hot water from the engine is routed to water jacketed
exhaust manifolds for 'super heating'. This steam is then routed to the
drive shaft turbine. Low pressure steam leaves the turbine and enters the
radiator or back to the engine to be condensed or heated again. And, don't
forget the water purification unit right before the turbine. 

I'm sure there is a simple reason why this will not work, besides cost. I
don't know it. Let's see what the thermodynamic experts say.

GMD



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep 15 17:22:17 1996
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 1996 10:16:20 +0000
From: Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>
Organization: Protomotive Engineering
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Talltom,
	Yes, I've seen the same thing, max power prior to detonation.  Though
this was typically on very crappy cylinder heads.  The one that really
comes to mind is a 1.8L 4 cylinder 914 engine my brother had.  You could
wing the distributor all the way around and never get that damned thing
to knock.  So there was definately a peak power point prior to
detonation.
	One other example I found was on a racing 911 engine that had a very
poorly designed piston.  911 heads are semi-hemispherical in shape, and
this particular engine had Cosworth pistons in it, running about 11/1
compression ratio.  The piston shape shrouded the spark plug, as well as
created a ring of unburnt gasses at the base of the the combustion
chamber becuase the quench area was up the piston a ways and left this
ring open.  This engine wanted about 37 - 42 degrees timing to produce
peak power, but would run all the way to about 45 degrees with  the
power falling off prior to detonation.
	This engine was torn down, the pistons reshaped and reassembled.  Peak
power now occurred at about 32 - 35 degrees peak with detonation onset
at 37 degrees.  The power went up 30 hp, even though we had effectively
lowered the compression ratio from 11/1 to 9/1 by reshaping the crown of
the piston.  Though the better shape obviously worked a bit better.
	Our typical engines now are flat top pistons in a semi-hemispherical
combustion chamber, running 7.5 to 8.5 / 1 compression ratio up to 1.4
bar (20 psi) boost giving us an effective compression ratio in the
18-20/1 range.  Running twin-plug on these engines requires only 18
degrees advance on pump fuel for peak power.  20 degrees knocks and
destroys engines.  This combustion chamber works very effectively in
this configuration, though not very well in a high compression ratio,
normally aspirated setup.
	Point is, and I think Ed would agree with me, is that with all things
properly setup, knock and peak power will be very close to one another. 
Though with poor combustion chamber design, like in a 15/1 compression
ratio Winston cup motor that deals with tiny little restricters.  Knock,
power, and timing get very different.

Todd Knighton
Protomotive Engineering


>   Ed and Todd both described scenarios designed to set timing to avoid
> knock. I've maintained that some combustion chambers aren't inclined to knock 
> and are best timed by power. My expierience with these(Fiat and some fe 
> series Fords come to mind) suggests that power goes down significantly before 
> knock, and frequently is accompanied by surging. While it doesn't show to a 
> great extent, the latest Circle track Magazine has dyno tests on the latest 
> Ford heads that show that timing is best at some point well behind the knock 
> point. I manintain that much bigger differences than show here are available 
> in the real world.(on track) Having blown engs using the knock method, it 
> leaves me a little less than impressed.  It still seems that the trick is 
> finding the sweet spot, with knock only useful for a message telling you 
> which way to go, and that you need to go a ways.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep 15 17:53:30 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: steam!
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 1996 10:46:38 -0700
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Remember the Reichstag

----------
> From: talltom <talltom@teleport.com>
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: steam!
> Date: Saturday, September 14, 1996 11:59 PM
> 
> 
>   Allright! Anybody got any good ideas about how to reclaim the water
when it's
> been thru the engine?(Water isn't as plentyful as it used to be) Short of
making
> a deal with wppss(Another conceptually and financially bankrupt govt. -
> washington public power supply system.) on a unused cooling tower that
is.?
>
If you are truly interested in steam engines, the late 40's Americans seem
to
represent the height of the technology.  The south Africans used condensers
and recycled the water on some of their steam engines.  On many tender 
mounted booster engines the low pressure exhaust steam was vented directly
back into the water supply.

With a steam piston engine, transmissions are totally useless.  Cut of
steam = 
parked, stopped - no need to idle.  Move valve to "forward", go forward. 
Move
valve to reverse, go backwards.  Change direction by changing how steam 
admitted.  RPM limit is the destruction limit of engine.  Torque limit is
by PSI 
and size of piston.  Think of how small loco pistons were in comparison to
the 10,000 plus ton loads they sometimes carried.   Also, road locomotives
were almost universally limited to 300 PSI or less.

What you will have is the problems of external combustion and water
recycling
to have sufficient range.   Railroads had water towers at frequent
intervals to
avoid carrying more than a couple of hundred tons of water and coal at a
time.

If they told you about 1200 PSI steam and the power from it, remember that 
it is made at half the temperature reached in an IC engine.  For the
skeptics,
remember - 1cc of liquid water state changed to vapor (boiled) makes about
1800 cc of vapor.  Not a bad little expansion ration.

What I am tying to do is first build a self tuning controllable EFI for
petrol fuels
and then, inject a precisely metered amount of additional H2O to get the
power
of steam from the excess heat and avoid all the external combustion
hassles.  

No it would not be as efficient as an external combustion engine, but it
would
be far simpler and I believe could develope a lot more power than the same
amount of fuel in a straight IC engine.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 16 01:52:39 1996
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From: "Chuck Thigpen" <cthiggy@gulf.net>
To: diy_efi
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 I have been reading all of the correspondence on this list for 
 several months now.  I can't even begin to describe all that I 
 have learned about DIY_FI.  I continually look to this list to
 learn more about all of the topics.  
 
 Unfortunately, my field of study in college was Mechanical 
 Engineering which has made me somewhat illiterate in the 
 world of electronics.  I am continually trying to learn more 
 about electronics, however, I am still quite the amateur.  
 
 I am looking to create a measurement device that is LCD and
 is virtually a multimeter.  I have a  280ZX Turbo that has the
 stock Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection in it.  I am planning on
 modifying it fairly extensively, but I would like to retain the 
 stock FI system.  I need this measuring device to display
 up to 6 different signals including Inlet Air Temp, Head Temp, 
 A/F ratio, boost pressure, and fuel pressure, water temp  etc.   I know that 
 I will have to calibrate these readings for each sensor.  Is there
 an A/D converter that would handle this many input signals 
 (possibly a switching type system)???  I would also like the 
 unit to be programmable to read the proper units for each 
 measurement.  It can read each signal one at a time.  I don't 
 need to see all of them at once.  
 
 Can anyone recommend what components I should use and how
 I should assemble such a unit???   Like I said, I am pretty ignorant 
 to electronic circuits beyond the basics.  Can someone please help? 
 I want to be able to tune without destroying engine parts.  Thanks
 in advance.  
 
 Chuck Thigpen
     
 

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On Sat, 14 Sep 1996, talltom wrote:

 I manintain that much bigger > differences than show here are available
in the real world.(on track) Having > blown > engs using the knock method,
it leaves me a little less than impressed.  It > still > seems that the
trick is finding the sweet spot, with knock only useful for a > message >
telling you which way to go, and that you need to go a ways. 

What about the technique of using a vacuum gauge to determine optimum 
timing? On my old 914, that's what I use, and it jibes with the crank 
markings (which are really hard to see, hence the alternative method). 

Briefly, the method is to connect a vacuum gauge and adjust the timing at
idle until a maximum reading is found on the gauge, then stop. If you
continue to turn the distributor, you'll find that there's a plateau in
the reading. I was told that the best timing was just when the plateau was
reached. Seems to work for me. 

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 16 02:13:23 1996
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>The point was, is, and always will be to try to combine the sheer  
>power of a steam engine with the simplicity of an IC engine.

You can't get something for nothing.  If you have 'sheer power' then 
you're also burning a lot of fuel too.  Bear in mind that most 
stationary steam plants are working at about 35% thermal efficiency 
(unless they're combined cycle plants), which a good IC engine can 
approach too!  Therefore just adding water to fuel in an IC engine is 
not going to give you vast increases of power.  What it might allow is 
to extend the characteristic limits of an engine by a small amount. 
(ie the knock limit)

>Do you think that catapilar and others are trying to invent a cheaper 
>fuel? Not f___ng likely.  What they want is a more powerful engine 
>without increasing the size and complexity of the current production 
>engines. 

As far as I have read, catapillar are working on the naptha/water 
emulsion fuel in diesel engines as a way of overcoming it's archilles 
heel, which is high NOx emissions caused by high combustion pressures.

Andrew Rabbitt

(remember the thermodynamics...)




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 16 02:20:29 1996
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At 11:59 PM 9/14/96 -0700, you wrote:

>    Superheated steam(1200psi) in the case of a ruptured pipe can be invisible,
>and if you happen to walk by can cut your leg off without warning so they tell 
>me at the local steam generating plant. 

At least it'd cauterize the wound at the same time...

regards
dn
dnorquay@awinc.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 16 03:14:52 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Timing - again
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 1996 20:10:05 -0700
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Remember the Reichstag

----------
> From: talltom <talltom@teleport.com>
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Timing - again
> Date: Saturday, September 14, 1996 12:30 PM
> 
> 
ve 
> maintained that some combustion chambers aren't inclined to knock and are
> best timed 
> by power. My expierience with these(Fiat and some fe series Fords come to
mind) 
> suggests that power goes down significantly before knock, and frequently
is
> accompanied by surging. While it doesn't show to a great extent, the
latest 

Some one will definitely correct me, but as I understand it, you want to
light the
fire before top dead center just enuff to make the maxium pressure thru out
the
entire power stroke.  Too early and some of the pressure slows the piston
down
on the compression stroke. Too too early and knock - drive the piston
backwards.

Vizard and other current writers says ceramic coating pistons, valves and 
chambers greatly reduces knock and ping.  Micro Coats of Santa Rosa, a 
leading coater says works great RETARD timing 3 to 4 degrees after coating
to make optium power (10% increases not unrealistic).  WTF - if optium
power
is just before destruction limit, and ceramics move that up the advance,
why
do you make better power at less advance?  Maybe better combustion, flame
front propagation, etc cause the pressure to build faster.  Nah - just
f___ng 
magic.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 16 05:37:01 1996
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From: jac@wave.sheridan.wy.us
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Date: Sun, 15 Sep 96 23:09:21 PDT
Subject: Re: Timing - again, ceramic
To: diy_efi
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RE: ceramic surfaces

The ceramic coating keeps more of the heat in the gasses 
through the expansion cycle and more energy is extracted 
from it.

The knock and dentonation improvement is also the result 
of the insulating properties of the ceramic.  During the 
expansion cycle the surface of the insulation will be 
hotter than bare iron or aluminum would be in similar 
conditions.  There is less condensation of fuel and 
combustion products on the head and piston, therefor less 
carbon buildup and hot spots to cause problems during the 
compression cycle.

The timing can be retarded because the insulated surfaces 
cause less heat to be absorbed by the head and piston 
surfaces.  The flame front travels faster and probably 
initiates with greater precision.


---------------Original Message---------------
Remember the Reichstag

----------
> From: talltom <talltom@teleport.com>
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Timing - again
> Date: Saturday, September 14, 1996 12:30 PM
> 
> 
ve 
> maintained that some combustion chambers aren't inclined 
to knock and are
> best timed 
> by power. My expierience with these(Fiat and some fe 
series Fords come to
mind) 
> suggests that power goes down significantly before 
knock, and frequently
is
> accompanied by surging. While it doesn't show to a great 
extent, the
latest 

Some one will definitely correct me, but as I understand 
it, you want to
light the
fire before top dead center just enuff to make the maxium 
pressure thru out
the
entire power stroke.  Too early and some of the pressure 
slows the piston
down
on the compression stroke. Too too early and knock - drive 
the piston
backwards.

Vizard and other current writers says ceramic coating 
pistons, valves and 
chambers greatly reduces knock and ping.  Micro Coats of 
Santa Rosa, a 
leading coater says works great RETARD timing 3 to 4 
degrees after coating
to make optium power (10% increases not unrealistic).  WTF 
- if optium
power
is just before destruction limit, and ceramics move that 
up the advance,
why
do you make better power at less advance?  Maybe better 
combustion, flame
front propagation, etc cause the pressure to build faster. 
 Nah - just
f___ng 
magic.


----------End of Original Message----------

-------------------------------------
jac@wave.sheridan.wy.us
 09/15/96 23:09:21




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 16 07:10:43 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Math Question
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 00:02:11 -0700
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Remember the Reichstag

----------
> From: RABBITT_Andrew@mv8.orbeng.com.au
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: re: Math Question
> Date: Monday, September 16, 1996 7:06 AM
> 
> 
> >The point was, is, and always will be to try to combine the sheer  
> >power of a steam engine with the simplicity of an IC engine.
> 
> You can't get something for nothing.  If you have 'sheer power' then 
> you're also burning a lot of fuel too.  Bear in mind that most 
> stationary steam plants are working at about 35% thermal efficiency 
> (unless they're combined cycle plants), which a good IC engine can 
> approach too!  Therefore just adding water to fuel in an IC engine is 
> not going to give you vast increases of power.  What it might allow is 
> to extend the characteristic limits of an engine by a small amount. 
> (ie the knock limit)
> 
> >
Let me see if I get this thermodynamic thing right.  I burn fuel, convert 
between 20 and 30 percent to mechanical energy, heat up cooling 
water and oil to 200 plus degrees, and throw away 50 per cent or 
more of the energy as heat at 1300 plus degrees exhaust temperature 
- enuff to send water boiling at 3600 psi - and there is only a little
teeny 
tiny amount of excess heat to convert water to steam in the chamber - 
as an antidetontant?  I'm convinced.

I guess I just don't get the big picture.  Maybe water knows that it is 
about to be injected into an engine and presto magic changes 
characteristics and doesn't boil at 212 degrees or expand 1800 times 
when it turns to steam when that happens in a combustion chamber.
It just stops making 600 psi at 440 degrees so that heaven forbid any
of that wasted heat might get converted to power.

Thank you for the thermodynamic and magic lesson.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 16 09:19:19 1996
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From: wrm@ccii.co.za (Wouter de Waal)
Subject: D-jet part #s
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Reply-To: diy_efi

Hi all

 TallTom asks
>Ps. I got another bosch d brain brain and it works.(I'm back to a v8 now!)
>Can anybody tell me the difference between bosch #0 280 002 013(original) and 
>the only thing I could get to replace it #0 280 002 005?

Unfortunately I don't have the MB cross references, only the VW, what I can
tell you is that (Bosch part #) 0 280 002 005 has a Bosch exchange code
(whatever that is) of CU36X, which matches MB part # 000 545 2632, while 013
has an exchange code of CU38X, matching MB part # 000 545 7932 and 000 545
8032. So they're not the same, but I can't tell you which cars they match.

Try to get hold of the bosch 'Gasoline Fuel Injection Automotive Products'
catalog, Weatherly 600 catalog no 221109. I only have parts of it.

W
--
Wouter de Waal        Phone : +27 21 683 5490
Development Engineer  Fax   : +27 21 683 5435
CCII Systems
Kenilworth, South Africa


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 16 09:53:22 1996
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Resent-From: Johnny <allnight@everett.net>
Resent-To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Help tuning Haltech E6 (fwd)
From: Jeremy Pronk <jpronk@st.nepean.uws.edu.au>
To: Johnny <allnight@everett.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 18:49:12 +1000 (EST)
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This is a forward originating from Jeremy Pronk <jpronk@st.nepean.uws.edu.au>
who is having some trouble recieving the list at his site. Please send
all responses you might have to his efi question to him directly.

Thanks

-j-

On Sun, 15 Sep 1996, Johnny wrote:

> You are on the list alright. Make sure you are sending your posts to:
> diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> 
> To see a roster of list members, send mail to:
> majordomo@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu and put; 
> who diy_efi
> in the body of the message. You will see your name on the list.
> If you have further difficulties, send mail to me.

I sent the mail to that correct address twice, but it never came back to 
me (and no one complained about multiple posts?).

Maybe you could answer a quick question. I have a 1.5ltr boxer motor 
converted to haltech efi. I am using a function called quickmap to make a 
approximate fuel map, but it needs two injector values, injector open time 
at idle, and injector open time at full power. I put in 1.5ms and 6ms, 
does that sound about right?

The engine seems to idle abnormally, and stays and takes about 5-10secs 
to come back down to idle again if you give the pedal a pump. I think I 
will have to fiddle around with it a little more.

regards,

Jeremy, Sydney AUSTRALIA
'69 510 4dr (for sale!)
'83 AlfaSud Ti (Haltech E6 EFI)


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 16 10:32:01 1996
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From: Jeremy Pronk <jpronk@st.nepean.uws.edu.au>
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testing, testing...

Jeremy, Sydney AUSTRALIA
'69 510 4dr (for sale!)
'83 AlfaSud Ti (Haltech E6 EFI)

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 16 12:03:31 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Timing - again, ceramic
In-Reply-To: <Chameleon.960915232607.john@jac.wave.sheridan.wy.us>
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On Sun, 15 Sep 1996 jac@wave.sheridan.wy.us wrote:

> RE: ceramic surfaces
> 
> The ceramic coating keeps more of the heat in the gasses 
> through the expansion cycle and more energy is extracted 
> from it.

Yeah, ceramics are a good way to keep the exhaust gases hot and the heads 
and pistons cool. In a book I have called "Air Cooled Motor Engines", the 
author talks about how they tried installing a stainless steel shield in 
the exhaust port to help keep the heads cooler. But, since the exhaust 
gas was now hotter, the exhaust valve ran hotter, too. This can be a real 
problem in air cooled engines. We can expand on this idea and note that 
any technique (including ThermoTec header wrap tape and Jet Hot Coating) 
that "keeps the heat in the pipe" will make the exhaust valves run 
hotter, thus shortening thier life. A solution for this is to get the 
exhaust valves Jet Hot Coated also, and/or use sodium-cooled exhaust 
valves. 

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


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From: M HILL <EAXMJHI@ean2.mecheng.nottingham.ac.uk>
Organization:  Mech Eng, University of Nottingham
To: diy_efi
Date:          Mon, 16 Sep 1996 14:05:02 GMT0BST
Subject:       Spark plug ionisation
Priority: normal
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I am starting to do some work on looking at spark plug ionisation for 
measuring instability in engines running at very lean AFRs.  I was 
just wondering if anybody else had done any work in this field.  If 
so, what sensors were used for measuring the ionisation currents.  
The system I am looking at is going to use a second spark at around 
15degrees after TDC and use a transient suppressor and capacitor on 
the secondary of the coil to store voltage for measuring ionisation.

Martin.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 16 13:15:16 1996
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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Mail Delivery Failure aka digital dashboard
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        [ snip ]

> I am looking to create a measurement device that is LCD and
> is virtually a multimeter.  I have a  280ZX Turbo that has the
> stock Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection in it.  I am planning on
> modifying it fairly extensively, but I would like to retain the 
> stock FI system.  I need this measuring device to display
> up to 6 different signals including Inlet Air Temp, Head Temp, 
> A/F ratio, boost pressure, and fuel pressure, water temp  etc.   

Look in Radio-Electronics, July, 1990 for an article on building
a digital dashboard.  I personally like the Intersil ICL-7106, ICL-7116
chips.  They are 40-pin, but require a minimal amount of external
components and drive the LCD (or LED -- see ICL-7107 or 7117)
display directly.  Hosfelt Electronics (800-524-6464) has these chips
already on a circuit board with the display for about $16.  The
circuit is the standard circuit described from Intersil, and is a
differential input.  It can be wired to take 200 mV to 20 volts (of
course an op-amp can be wired to amplify lower voltages and resistor
attenuators can be built to handle larger) and can be powered from
the car battery, but probably should have a resistor-zener or 7809
3-terminal regulator to protect it, as it's max rated supply voltage
is 15 volts.

The sensors and scaling their outputs to the DPM are another problem.
As long as the outputs are linear, simple op-amp circuits will
suffice (LM-324 is a quad op-amp and allows single supply operation).


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 16 15:38:13 1996
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From: "Johnny" <allnight@everett.net>
To: "diy_efi" <diy_efi>
Subject: test... ignore
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 08:26:48 -0700
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test

-j-

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 16 16:55:32 1996
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> Can anyone recommend what components I should use and how
> I should assemble such a unit???   Like I said, I am pretty ignorant 
> to electronic circuits beyond the basics.  Can someone please help? 
> I want to be able to tune without destroying engine parts.  Thanks
> in advance.  
> 
> Chuck Thigpen

Chuck,

There is a very good electronics book on the market called "THE ART OF
ELECTRONICS" it covers all types of electronics and has lots of example
circuits.  It can be hard to find some times, but any good book store should
be able to bring it in.

Wade Barnes, Electronics Tech.

--------------------------------------------------------------------
    MC68HC16 Embedded Controllers and Software Development Tools    |
              WebPg   http://www.islandnet.com/~iii                 |
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Intec Inoventures Inc.       Phone   604-721-5150                   |
2751 Arbutus Road            Fax         721-4191                   |
Victoria   BC  V8N 5X7                                              |
Canada                                                              |
--------------------------------------------------------------------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 16 17:40:53 1996
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Message-ID: <323D8D05.587E@net-quest.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 10:23:18 -0700
From: Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>
Organization: Protomotive Engineering
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Timing - again, ceramic
References: <Pine.SUN.3.91.960916075253.18354A-100000@pioneer.uspto.gov>
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> Yeah, ceramics are a good way to keep the exhaust gases hot and the heads
> and pistons cool. In a book I have called "Air Cooled Motor Engines", the
> author talks about how they tried installing a stainless steel shield in
> the exhaust port to help keep the heads cooler. But, since the exhaust
> gas was now hotter, the exhaust valve ran hotter, too. This can be a real
> problem in air cooled engines. We can expand on this idea and note that
> any technique (including ThermoTec header wrap tape and Jet Hot Coating)
> that "keeps the heat in the pipe" will make the exhaust valves run
> hotter, thus shortening thier life. A solution for this is to get the
> exhaust valves Jet Hot Coated also, and/or use sodium-cooled exhaust
> valves.

	Beware of Ceramics!!!
	Especially on internal engine parts, i.e. pistons, combustion chambers,
valves, exhaust ports.
	In 1989, Porsche decided to put a ceramic insert in the exhaust ports
of the 911's.  Works O.K. on Normally aspirated cars.  When
turbocharged, however, they tend to disentigrate and blow out,
subsequently destroying turbine blades.
	Piston tops coated with ceramic sound great, but on Air-cooled's where
expansion is seemingly twice that of watercooled's, they've been having
a lot of fun trying to keep the stuff on.  Again, on turbocharged
engines, the stuff coming out the exhaust port isn't just going into the
atmosphere.  It destroys things.
	Coating headers as well tends to make the material run much hotter,
thus disintegrates quicker, especially on mild steel.  If you just go to
a good stainless steel header, the coefficient of thermal heat transfer
is so slow, the heat transfer is practically better than a mild steel
header ceramic coated.

Just my thoughts and experiences.

Todd Knighton
Protomotive Engineering

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 16 18:11:23 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Dyno Stuff
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 11:07:57 -0700
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Just a thought.  Jacob's Vehicle Equipment Co.  Bloomfield, Conn.
has announced the availability of an electromagnetic drive line brake
ranging from a 134 to 817 braking horsepower at 2,500 rpm and
brake torque values from 289 to 2,315 foot lbs. No relationship
to Jacob's Electronics.

These devices brake vehicles up to 110,000 lbs. by electromagnetic
absorption of power.  Cost said to be "reasonable" but have no
other data.

Just might be useful to look at as an absorber for a dyno.  Of course
Mr. Thermodynamics and other anally retentive types will quote me
physics books saying its impossible - and the fact it is in production
by a major heavy truck parts manufacturer will make little difference.



Remember the Reichstag

----------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 16 20:21:42 1996
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 16:11:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: Thor Johnson <johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu>
To: DIY EFI Maillist <diy_efi>
Subject: Why run it hot?
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A lot of traffic relating to ceramics/keeping exhaust hot has been 
passing through...  Why would I want to do this?  Is it just for 
TurboCharging, or is it useful in other respects?I thought gas blew up 
best when cold... enlighten me f I'm wrong.

TIA,


                Thor Johnson
       johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu
   http://falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu/~johnsont
                                                    
         Have you seen the WarpMap lately?                    
 http://falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu/~johnsont/warpmap  



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 16 23:17:50 1996
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From: jac@wave.sheridan.wy.us
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 96 16:56:15 PDT
Subject: RE: Why run it hot? 
To: diy_efi
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The entire point of burning fuel is to make hot gasses.  
The hotter the better up the the limits of the materials 
you have to work with.  If you can maintain the gasses at 
higher temperature, you can get extract more energy from 
the combustion, at the same time reducing the load on the 
cooling system.  

john carroll

---------------Original Message---------------

A lot of traffic relating to ceramics/keeping exhaust hot 
has been 
passing through...  Why would I want to do this?  Is it 
just for 
TurboCharging, or is it useful in other respects?I thought 
gas blew up 
best when cold... enlighten me f I'm wrong.

TIA,


                Thor Johnson
       johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu
   http://falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu/~johnsont
                                                    
         Have you seen the WarpMap lately?                 
   
 http://falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu/~johnsont/warpmap  



----------End of Original Message----------

-------------------------------------
jac@wave.sheridan.wy.us
 09/16/96 16:56:15




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 01:21:26 1996
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	id AA02827; Tue, 17 Sep 96 11:17:43 EST
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 11:17:43 EST
Message-Id: <9609170117.AA02827@grim.baps.BoM.GOV.AU>
From: Stuart Baly <S.Baly@BoM.gov.au>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Re: Radial-Diametral Head
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>The Noratlas had a 14cyl. radial with disc-valves (?).

This engine might have used Aspen (Aspin?) valves. I read about these a 
long time ago. They had a disc mounted on a vertical shaft mounted so that 
the lower surface of the disc was the upper surface of the combustion 
chamber. The disc had a hole in it, and was rotated at half engine speed, 
so that intake and exhaust ports were covered and uncovered at the 
appropriate times. Apparently the system was sorted and reliable - ports 
were opened faster and flowed better than with conventional valves, and 
with no reciprocating valve train, they revved to the moon (14000rpm from a 
250cc single in the mid 1930's)

Stuart.

==============================================
Stuart Baly
Technical Officer
Cape Grim Baseline Air Pollution Station
S.Baly@bom.gov.au
==============================================
All responses are my own and should not be mistaken
for Sagely Advice, or even Common Sense.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 01:49:52 1996
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From: Craig Pugsley <c.pugsley@trl.telstra.com.au>
Message-Id: <199609170133.LAA08943@shiva.trl.OZ.AU>
Subject: Kinsler fuel injection catalog??
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 11:33:46 +1000 (EST)
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Hi,

I saw a tiny advert in a magazine for Kinsler fuel injection in Troy,
Michigan (usa), and apparently they have a catalog with about 100 pages
of cool stuff in it.

Has anyone got this catalog, & if so how can the rest of us get one?

Cheers,
Craig.
pugsley@trl.oz.au

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 05:57:59 1996
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Date: 	Mon, 16 Sep 1996 21:35:35 -0700
To: diy_efi
From: peter paul fenske <pfenske@direct.ca>
Subject: GM Map Sensor
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Hi All

Here is the GM map sensor data Stamped 460 Used 82 - 92

kpa     Hg      volts
100     0       4.9
90      2.9     4.4
80      5.9     3.8
70      8.9     3.3
60      11.8    2.7
50      14.8    2.2
40      17.7    1.7
30      20.7    1.1
20      23.7    0.6

GL: peter


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 06:10:26 1996
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Organization:  LMU-GRH Dept. of Neurology
To: diy_efi
Date:          Tue, 17 Sep 1996 08:08:10 MET
Subject: Re: Radial-Diametral Head
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Hi Stuart,
no, it was not aspin, they could not make it long-lasting, because it 
was not a disk, but a cone. It's hard to keep distance as small as 
possible between the cone and the head.
A disk valve system as you describe was successfully tested in WW2 by
BMW,  but didn't reach production stage. 
I don't know the name (maybe knight?) and I do hard to explain the principle.
The cylinderwall has slots and is turning / oscillating. Knight system had 
two coaxial slotted cylinders turning (or so)
I try to find the book where I read it.
Hans

> >The Noratlas had a 14cyl. radial with disc-valves (?).
> 
> This engine might have used Aspen (Aspin?) valves. I read about these a 
> long time ago. They had a disc mounted on a vertical shaft mounted so that 
> the lower surface of the disc was the upper surface of the combustion 
> chamber. The disc had a hole in it, and was rotated at half engine speed, 
> so that intake and exhaust ports were covered and uncovered at the 
> appropriate times. Apparently the system was sorted and reliable - ports 
> were opened faster and flowed better than with conventional valves, and 
> with no reciprocating valve train, they revved to the moon (14000rpm from a 
> 250cc single in the mid 1930's)
> 
> Stuart.
 
hiha@ brain.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de
Munich / Germany

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 06:49:49 1996
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From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Radial-Diametral Head
In-Reply-To: <BDE5F164DB@brain.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de>
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On Tue, 17 Sep 1996, Hans Hintermaier wrote:

> 
> Hi Stuart,
> no, it was not aspin, they could not make it long-lasting, because it 
> was not a disk, but a cone. It's hard to keep distance as small as 
> possible between the cone and the head.
> A disk valve system as you describe was successfully tested in WW2 by
> BMW,  but didn't reach production stage. 

Any more information on the BMW engine? Junkers made a WW2 era
disc valve V8 aluminum engine for torpedos. power output was 275hp
at 3600 rpm. Interestingly enough, one Felix Wankel developed it.

jim Davies


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 07:26:26 1996
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 96 15:33:38 
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     I seem to remember a while back, there was talk about injector flow 
     rates, well I happend to come across this earlier today:
     
     http://proffa.cc.tut.fi/%7ek124476/index.html
     
     For those interested, once you get through it all, there is a 
     reasonable list on Bosch injectors ie. part numbers and flow rates.  I 
     don't know if the home page owner is on the list, but I recon he has 
     done quite a job of it.  Enjoy !!
     
     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 08:50:01 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'DIY EFI'" <diy_efi>
Subject: Off limits
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 10:38:21 +-200
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Seems to me we are getting way way off topic guys, much as I enjoy the =
steam thing that is going on, and the discussion of weird heads and =
valves, I suspect that building new heads, or trying to perfect the =
automotive steam engine is way out of most of our capabilitys.

I've decided to start my project by building a mapped ignition for a 4 =
,6 or 8 Cyl engine, with advance by looking up a pre programmed MAP and =
engine speed map in eprom.

Havnt chosen the uP yet.. but I've given myself till Christmas (as that =
is the next time I'll see my ride 9boo sob snif)

Mark



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 08:50:01 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'Darrell Norquay'"
	 <dnorquay@awinc.com>
Subject: RE: MAP sensor
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 09:24:46 +-200
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Anybody out there know who Stack is??? Well, they use those little =
squidgy yellow ear plugs as vibration mounts.. by all accounts they work =
REALY well! (but aparantly didnt save a data logger that went round the =
back wheel of a Kawasaki!). Ive used them in the past to mount my CD =
player in the Spitfire, as the ride is so harsh it wouldnt play.. 4 =
earplugs, end on underneath it, and no probs!

Just an Idea !

Mark


----------
From:  Darrell Norquay[SMTP:dnorquay@awinc.com]
Sent:  Saturday, September 14, 1996 2:51 PM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Re: MAP sensor

At 08:19 AM 9/13/96 -0500, Tom wrote:

>Now, I'll just need to find out how much it costs,
>what it looks like, how it mounts, etc.

Typically, most OEM MAP sensors are little black boxes around 2x3x1", =
with
screw mounting holes built in, a small barbed hose fitting, and a plug =
or
short wiring harness with plug.

>The data sheets for these are on the Motorola web page,
>(http://motserv.indirect.com/) and they're listed in the Newark catalog
>for about $26.=20

The MPX4100 series have all the necessary signal conditioning built in.
They are simple 3 wire devices, voltage in (5V) , voltage out =
(.2v-4.9v),
ground.  Slap it in a waterproof enclosure and you're done.  They may =
not
like high vibration environments, so best to mount them on the firewall, =
in
the passenger compartment and run a hose to the manifold vacuum tree.  =
These
may be chaper than new OEM sensors, if you feel like doing the =
mechanical
bit yourself.  If you are doing an EFI circuit board, consider mounting =
the
sensor right on your PCB.  Vacuum hose doesn't pick up noise, whereas a
wiring harness might... One tip on these, the hose barbs provided on the
sensor are relatively fragile, one slip when pushing on the hose and =
it's
history.  Better to plumb this out to an external metal hose barb on the
box, to avoid the chance of breaking off the tit.

>Now, which to use -- and what does one do with the data re EFI ??
>Now, the frequency output of the OEM unit -- seems that
>that would entail either an F-V convertor and then A-D or an
>interrupt driven timer circuit that would return a number of counts
>proportional to the period of the sensor output.  Any suggestions?

Either unit will give you equivalent results, and probably don't require =
any
intervening components to interface to the processor.  If you have =
enough
analog channels on your micro, analog is probably easier.  If you are =
short
on analogs, and feel confident that you can write the code to measure
frequency (piece of cake on an 'HC11, but then so is analog) do it that =
way.
The frequency approach may have better noise immunity than analog.  =
Forget
the F-V stuff, it's not necessary or desireable.  For dinking around
purposes, you may be better off to get a used unit from an auto =
wreckers,
and see if it does what you want.  As far as what to do with the data =
once
you've got it, stay tuned...



regards
dn
dnorquay@awinc.com




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 08:50:02 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'Robert J. Harris'" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>,
        "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: Math Question
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 10:14:36 +-200
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I kinda get your point, but shurley what we are doing here is using that =
superb bit of waters characteristics, latent heat of vaporisation, to =
absorb the heat, and not throw it into the walls, crown and head so =
much..., and thereby keep the pressure up, or have I got it wrong here?

Mark

(who thought after 4 years he waas getting to know a bit about this =
stuff, and has just realised, put down the soldering iron, and pick the =
books up again!)


----------
From:  Robert J. Harris[SMTP:bob@bobthecomputerguy.com]
Sent:  Monday, September 16, 1996 9:02 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Re: Math Question

Remember the Reichstag

----------
> From: RABBITT_Andrew@mv8.orbeng.com.au
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: re: Math Question
> Date: Monday, September 16, 1996 7:06 AM
>=20
>=20
> >The point was, is, and always will be to try to combine the sheer =20
> >power of a steam engine with the simplicity of an IC engine.
>=20
> You can't get something for nothing.  If you have 'sheer power' then=20
> you're also burning a lot of fuel too.  Bear in mind that most=20
> stationary steam plants are working at about 35% thermal efficiency=20
> (unless they're combined cycle plants), which a good IC engine can=20
> approach too!  Therefore just adding water to fuel in an IC engine is=20
> not going to give you vast increases of power.  What it might allow is =

> to extend the characteristic limits of an engine by a small amount.=20
> (ie the knock limit)
>=20
> >
Let me see if I get this thermodynamic thing right.  I burn fuel, =
convert=20
between 20 and 30 percent to mechanical energy, heat up cooling=20
water and oil to 200 plus degrees, and throw away 50 per cent or=20
more of the energy as heat at 1300 plus degrees exhaust temperature=20
- enuff to send water boiling at 3600 psi - and there is only a little
teeny=20
tiny amount of excess heat to convert water to steam in the chamber -=20
as an antidetontant?  I'm convinced.

I guess I just don't get the big picture.  Maybe water knows that it is=20
about to be injected into an engine and presto magic changes=20
characteristics and doesn't boil at 212 degrees or expand 1800 times=20
when it turns to steam when that happens in a combustion chamber.
It just stops making 600 psi at 440 degrees so that heaven forbid any
of that wasted heat might get converted to power.

Thank you for the thermodynamic and magic lesson.




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 08:50:03 1996
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From: "Hans Hintermaier" <HIHA@GNF99M.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de>
Organization:  LMU-GRH Dept. of Neurology
To: diy_efi
Date:          Tue, 17 Sep 1996 10:33:01 MET
Subject: Re: Radial-Diametral Head
Priority: normal
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>> On Tue, 17 Sep 1996, Hans Hintermaier wrote:
> 
> > 
> > Hi Stuart,
> > no, it was not aspin, they could not make it long-lasting, because it 
> > was not a disk, but a cone. It's hard to keep distance as small as 
> > possible between the cone and the head.
> > A disk valve system as you describe was successfully tested in WW2 by
> > BMW,  but didn't reach production stage. 
> 
> Any more information on the BMW engine? Junkers made a WW2 era
> disc valve V8 aluminum engine for torpedos. power output was 275hp
> at 3600 rpm. Interestingly enough, one Felix Wankel developed it.
> 
> jim Davies
Hi Jim,
I'll try to scan in a drawing of the head until tomorrow and put it 
on http://www.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de/~hiha/gif/
Felix Wankel's first steps in engineering were experiments with 
turning gaskets to seal hot parts moving together. So if someone 
knew how to make a disk valve engine running, then him!
All big factories worked together in WW2. I saw books of this time
(top secret, interrnal use only) where they discribed everything 
around engines, still valid today. E. g. High speed movies of 
different diesel injecors, burning inside a comustion chamber, and 
much more. How to drill 0.038" holes 30" deep in steel, with X-ray 
fotos of the results. (they had no hi-pressure tubes for the immense 
injection-pressure of the JUMO aircraft diesel)
More tomorrow
Hans
hiha@ brain.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de
Munich / Germany

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 10:30:18 1996
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 20:22:28 +1000 (EST)
From: Jeremy Pronk <jpronk@st.nepean.uws.edu.au>
X-Sender: jpronk@arthur
To: diy_efi
Subject: Haltech E6 EFI
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Hello all,

I just purchased a nice alfasud which has been converted to haltech efi. 
I am having a little trouble tuning the system using the software that 
came with it.

The haltech software has a function call "QuickMAP" which will generate 
some ruff fuel maps from a few simple inputs. Now I put the standard 
inputs in, but the map created seems to be much to rich. The standard 
inputs are 2.3ms injector time at idle, ~10ms at full power... I think 
these are wrong?

The air/fuel ratio is display in volts?

Any help is greatly appreciated! I would like to hear from anyone who 
runs Haltech E6 in there car as well. (Forgive my ignorance, but I have 
only ever played with carbies up until now, even though I have been on 
this list for a while, I dont seem to have picked up to much)...

Jeremy, Sydney AUSTRALIA
'69 510 4dr (for sale!)
'83 AlfaSud Ti (Haltech E6 EFI)


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 12:03:48 1996
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 07:57:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
X-Sender: wright@pioneer.uspto.gov
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Timing - again, ceramic
In-Reply-To: <323D8D05.587E@net-quest.com>
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On Mon, 16 Sep 1996, Todd Knighton wrote:
> 	Beware of Ceramics!!!
> 	Especially on internal engine parts, i.e. pistons, combustion chambers,
> valves, exhaust ports.

Does this include Jet Hot Coatings? They have pictures of coated valves 
and piston tops inthier brochure. I can understand this might be a 
problem in air cooled engines, where the parts expand more due to the 
higher operating temperatures.

> 	Coating headers as well tends to make the material run much hotter,
> thus disintegrates quicker, especially on mild steel.  If you just go to
> a good stainless steel header, the coefficient of thermal heat transfer
> is so slow, the heat transfer is practically better than a mild steel
> header ceramic coated.

Yeah, that's the idea behind stainless steel valves for air cooled 
engines, they run cooler that way.


****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 12:03:48 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Why run it hot?
In-Reply-To: <Pine.ULT.3.91.960916160845.25750B-100000@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu>
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On Mon, 16 Sep 1996, Thor Johnson wrote:

> 
> A lot of traffic relating to ceramics/keeping exhaust hot has been 
> passing through...  Why would I want to do this?  Is it just for 
> TurboCharging, or is it useful in other respects?I thought gas blew up 
> best when cold... enlighten me f I'm wrong.
> 

Hotter exhaust gas translates to higher gas velocity, which aides 
scavanging during the exhuast stroke. It's a racer trick to get a little 
more power out of the engine. Also, using an insulating header wrap 
reduces temperatures under the hood, which also helps to make a little 
more power by keeping fuel lines cooler. As Todd has pointed out, things 
aren't always what they seem, and a good idea can lead to serious 
consequences depending on the application.


****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 12:24:06 1996
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Message-Id: <199609171221.IAA01050@gocart.mot.delcoelect.com>
Subject: Re: Kinsler fuel injection catalog??
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 07:21:56 -0500 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <199609170133.LAA08943@shiva.trl.OZ.AU> from "Craig Pugsley" at Sep 17, 96 11:33:46 am
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> 
> Hi,
> 
> I saw a tiny advert in a magazine for Kinsler fuel injection in Troy,
> Michigan (usa), and apparently they have a catalog with about 100 pages
> of cool stuff in it.
> 
> Has anyone got this catalog, & if so how can the rest of us get one?
> 
> Cheers,
> Craig.
> pugsley@trl.oz.au
> 
Yes I have one, but I don't know whether they can ship overseas or not.
They have quite a few parts, but they aren't cheap.  Their EFI info
is useful, even if its a little dated.  Their original claim-to-fame
was mechanical FI systems for race cars.

-- 
Matthew D. Sale,  IC Development Engineer, Delco Electronics Corp.
msale@holli.com   http://www.holli.com/~msale
'69 Mustang 351W 5-spd (13.656@103MPH using cave-man technology).

All responses are my own and should not be mistaken
for those of Delco Electronics or General Motors.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 12:50:47 1996
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 08:43:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: Thor Johnson <johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu>
To: DIY EFI Maillist <diy_efi>
Subject: Looking for a price/supplier for a Honda F2 EFI
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One the reqs for sr design is to evaluate the build/buy decisition 
(though I like  building things).  So I am looking for an aftermarket 
Honda F2 (599 cc, 13000 rpm motorcycle) EFI unit.  Any sources?

        
TIA,

                Thor Johnson
       johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu
   http://falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu/~johnsont
                                                    
         Have you seen the WarpMap lately?                    
 http://falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu/~johnsont/warpmap  



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 14:55:16 1996
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	Wed, 18 Sep 96 00:41:07 +1000 
From: Chris Howard <s2184002@cse.unsw.edu.au>
To: diy_efi
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 00:41:14 +1000
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At 08:02 17/09/96 -0400, you wrote:
>On Mon, 16 Sep 1996, Thor Johnson wrote:
>
>> 
>> A lot of traffic relating to ceramics/keeping exhaust hot has been 
>> passing through...  Why would I want to do this?  Is it just for 
>> TurboCharging, or is it useful in other respects?I thought gas blew up 
>> best when cold... enlighten me f I'm wrong.
>> 
>
>Hotter exhaust gas translates to higher gas velocity, which aides 
>scavanging during the exhuast stroke. It's a racer trick to get a little 
>more power out of the engine. Also, using an insulating header wrap 
>reduces temperatures under the hood, which also helps to make a little 
>more power by keeping fuel lines cooler. As Todd has pointed out, things 
>aren't always what they seem, and a good idea can lead to serious 
>consequences depending on the application.
>

Actually the main reason to do this is to increase the thermal efficiency of
the engine. For a theoretical reversible (Carnot) engine, thermal efficiency
is given by:

        Tl
n = 1 - --
        Th

where n = thermal efficiency
Tl = temperature of low temp. reservoir ( Atmosphere in this case )
Th = temperature of high temp. reservoir ( Combustion temp )

"The thermal efficiency of actual heat engines can be maximized by supplying
heat to the engine at the highest possible temperature (limited by material
strength) and rejecting heat from the engine at the lowest possible
temperature."

Source:

Cengel y, & Boles M. 
Thermodynamics: An Engineering Approach

Get hold of any elementary thermodynamics textbook for more info.

Chris Howard
Computer Science
University of New South Wales
(was Mech. Eng @ Sydney University)
email: s2184002@cse.unsw.edu.au
Web: http://www.usyd.edu.au/~choward



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 15:32:52 1996
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To: DIY EFI Maillist <diy_efi>,
        Thor Johnson
 <johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu>
From: Brian J Hanson/OIIS/EKC
  <Brian_J_Hanson/OIIS/EKC%KODAK@knotes.Kodak.com>
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Subject: Re: Looking for a price/supplier for a Honda F2 EFI
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>One the reqs for sr design is to evaluate the build/buy decisition 
>(though I like  building things).  So I am looking for an aftermarket 
>Honda F2 (599 cc, 13000 rpm motorcycle) EFI unit.  Any sources?

I might look in a junk yard for a recked bike to get this off of.  Honda parts 
are quite expensive(believe me, they steal a bunch of $$ everytime I need to do 
maintenance on my F3).  Another source might be to look at the Vance & Hines 
upgrade system.  It isn't a Fuel Injection system tho(These are carbed 
engines).  The V&H computer gives you variable timing with the turn of a dial 
and I believe it's in the $350 range(Don't remember exactly tho..I might be way 
off)



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 15:57:14 1996
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From: Ennis Bragg <gt9803a@prism.gatech.edu>
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Message-Id: <199609171540.LAA20113@acmex.gatech.edu>
Subject: Re: Kinsler fuel injection catalog??
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 11:40:27 -0400 (EDT)
In-Reply-To: <199609170133.LAA08943@shiva.trl.OZ.AU> from "Craig Pugsley" at Sep 17, 96 11:33:46 am
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> I saw a tiny advert in a magazine for Kinsler fuel injection in Troy,
> Michigan (usa), and apparently they have a catalog with about 100 pages
> of cool stuff in it.
> 
> Has anyone got this catalog, & if so how can the rest of us get one?

Here's some info out of an ad in SCCA's Sportscar magazine.(Sept.96,pg43)

Kinsler Fuel Injection
1834-K Thunderbird
Troy, MI 48084

Phone:  810-362-1145
Fax:	810-362-1032

Send check or money order. no COD or credit cards are accepted for catalog
Catalog Price:  $12.00 (US)

"Our 92 page handbook/catalog is the bible on RACING FUEL INJECTION."

This is all straight from their add.

hope it helps

Ennis

-- 
Ennis Bragg
gt9803a@prism.gatech.edu
http://www.cc.gatech.edu/people/home/gt9803a/

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 16:28:02 1996
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Hi All,

I am designing a small (2"x2") controller board for use in the automotive
and robotics industries.  The board is based on the MC68HC16Z1
microcontroller.  Since the engine compartment of a car is filled with EMI
we are attempting to make the board as resistant as possible to the effects
of the EMI.

Since I don't know the specifics of the sources of EMI a an automobile I
would appreciate anyone who could help me with the following questions and
maybe give some extra advice on things I have not asked about but are of
concern in this type of design.

What are the frequency and voltage levels of noise present in the typical
automobile (EFI, and carburettor type)?

What is the strength of the magnetic waves created by spark plugs and/or
distributors?  What is currently done to protect against it?

What type of wire is used to connect a controller to the rest of the system
(shielded, unshielded, twisted pair)?

Can anyone give me some information on how to determined the type of
shielding to use (box type and thickness, feed through type and value)?
What is necessary?  What is commonly used and what is affordable?

Thanks in advance,

Wade Barnes, Electronics Tech.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
    MC68HC16 Embedded Controllers and Software Development Tools    |
              WebPg   http://www.islandnet.com/~iii                 |
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Intec Inoventures Inc.       Phone   604-721-5150                   |
2751 Arbutus Road            Fax         721-4191                   |
Victoria   BC  V8N 5X7                                              |
Canada                                                              |
--------------------------------------------------------------------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 17:36:43 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Timing - Ignition
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 10:25:23 -0700
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Subject: Ignition timing in conjunction with EFI

There appears to exist a number of sensors to build
an excellent self tuning EFI, yet the only sensor that
anyone talks about for ignition timing is a knock 
sensor that just tells me - oops too much - 
self destruct sequence initiated.

Factory curves and random published curves are all
that most without dynes have to work with.  Back in 
the bad old days, (pre computer) the killer secret for
street tuning was to advance the static initial timing
watching rpm and vacuum, until you got the max 
you could get and still start the engine, then put a
sping kit in adjust the mechanical until the total was
the same as what ever your guru of choice had
dicated.  Look for ping or knock, then put some
more in.  It works but had too much PFM (Pure F___ng
Majic) to be reliable for all engines.   Since then, many
bandaid seem to have appeared.

Since we now have computers, we should be able to
monitor something other than self destruct imminent and
tweak and peak the timing in conjunction with the fuel
to get optimum power and economy.

I truly hope that there are some good ideas out there.


Remember the Reichstag

----------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 19:51:36 1996
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From: "Mike Fahrion" <mfahrion@bb-elec.com>
Organization: B&B Electronics Mfg. Co.
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 14:50:48 +0000
Subject: Re: Looking for a price/supplier for a Honda F2 EFI
Priority: normal
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> >One the reqs for sr design is to evaluate the build/buy decisition 
> >(though I like  building things).  So I am looking for an aftermarket 
> >Honda F2 (599 cc, 13000 rpm motorcycle) EFI unit.  Any sources?
> 
> I might look in a junk yard for a recked bike to get this off of.  Honda parts 
> are quite expensive(believe me, they steal a bunch of $$ everytime I need to do 

The closest thing I can think of would be Yamaha's GTS1000.  Good 
luck finding one in the junk yard though.  This FI 4cyl 1000cc wasn't 
a big seller.  A friend has a '93 and isn't exactly impressed with its 
warmup characteristics considering its injected.
There is also a FI harley and BMWs I believe, but those probably 
wouldn't do much for you.  

If this was a real life adventure I think I'd personally stick with 
the method honda chose - pretty hard to improve upon if emissions 
aren't a critical factor.  

Good Luck
-mike

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 22:19:51 1996
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 09:09:00 +1200
From: "Woodd, Michael" <wooddm@akcity.govt.nz>
Organization: Auckland City
To: diy_efi (diy_efi)
Subject: Re: Timing - again
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>     Well it's time for me to challenge  some with more edu than me, but 
I'm
{snip snipetty snip}
>if you can agree on why this is?

I was going to mention a guy who makes engine computers here in NZ,
who I talked to once - I asked how he set spark on the dyno before
customers took their "hotted up" cars away, and he said that it was
mainly guesswork maximising torque etc, but you could sometimes
look for a reduction in torque as spark advanced, prior to knock.
(he has worked on many different types of cars, including jap)

I was going to mention him, but Todd blew my words away - if you're
new to this list it wont take long to figure out who to listen to...

I will mention talking to Robbie Francevic, who told me that when he
was driving turbo Volvos in touring cars, they got max power when
knock was just starting, and infact when they stuck a scope down
the plug hole you could see the tiny pock marks in the top of the
piston around the crown.

Are turbo engines different to normally aspirated in this regard,
due to any reason apart from c.chamber design etc., I wonder?

Mike Woodd
(wooddm@akcity.govt.nz)
Anybody need a race car driver?

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 17 22:32:34 1996
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 17:30:43 -0500
From: Doug Rorem <rorem@cherokee.eecs.uic.edu>
Subject: Re: steam!
To: diy_efi
Message-Id: <rorem-9608172230.AA00078801@cherokee.eecs.uic.edu>
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>From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
> ....
>What you will have is the problems of external combustion and water
>recycling to have sufficient range.   Railroads had water towers at frequent
                              *****
>intervals to avoid carrying more than a couple of hundred tons of water and
>coal at a time.
> ....

That's exactly what I've heard for the reasons of the demise of steam
locomotives.. Roughly 100 miles range between water stops. There's also
the pollution problem of soot from the burning coal, but I imagine that could
be overcome today. I believe the maintenance issues of steam are also
more costly than with diesels.

--
Doug Rorem
University of Illinois at Chicago         (312)-996-5439  [voice]
EECS Department  RM 1120                  (312)-413-1065  [fax]
851 S. Morgan Street                      (708)-996-2226  [pager]
Chicago, IL 60607-7053                    rorem@uic.edu

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To: diy_efi
From: pantera@pobox.com (David Doddek)
Subject: Re: Haltech E6 EFI
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Jeromy wrote:
(clip)

>The haltech software has a function call "QuickMAP" which will generate 
>some ruff fuel maps from a few simple inputs. Now I put the standard 
>inputs in, but the map created seems to be much to rich. The standard 
>inputs are 2.3ms injector time at idle, ~10ms at full power... I think 
>these are wrong?

These numbers depend greatly on the injector sizes.  But at these times,
your injectors would have to be almost too small for the engine.  Try 8ms at
full throttle and 1.5 to 1.8 ms at idle.  You will just have to experiment
to get a close value.  Remember the bigger the injector, the smaller the on
time at idle.  Full throttle time depends on the engine hp cabability.

David J. Doddek                                          |pantera@pobox.com
Owner SGD Electronics & Development Engr for Caterpillar |h 309 685-7965
Formula SAE Team Sidewinder 94-95                        |w 309 578-2931
89 T-bird SC,  69 Fairlane w/SGD EFI                     |fx 217 428-4686
74 Pantera w/Electromotive Tec-II Twin turbos and Nitros |
Hey, If you are going to go fast, go REEEAAL FAST.       |


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 00:20:03 1996
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To: diy_efi
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     Get hold of the European EMC standards, they have a section 
     specifically on automotives.  ie, the levels you have to test too for 
     compliance.  I guess that if you can design to pass these levels, 
     you'll be OK.  Give someone like the UK consulate a call, they should 
     be able to help you with the relevant section of the standards and any 
     other info you want.
     
     
     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Microcontroller shielding questions
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
Date:    9/17/96 9:14 AM


Hi All,
     
I am designing a small (2"x2") controller board for use in the automotive 
and robotics industries.  The board is based on the MC68HC16Z1 
microcontroller.  Since the engine compartment of a car is filled with EMI 
we are attempting to make the board as resistant as possible to the effects 
of the EMI.
     
Since I don't know the specifics of the sources of EMI a an automobile I 
would appreciate anyone who could help me with the following questions and 
maybe give some extra advice on things I have not asked about but are of 
concern in this type of design.
     
What are the frequency and voltage levels of noise present in the typical 
automobile (EFI, and carburettor type)?
     
What is the strength of the magnetic waves created by spark plugs and/or 
distributors?  What is currently done to protect against it?
     
What type of wire is used to connect a controller to the rest of the system 
(shielded, unshielded, twisted pair)?
     
Can anyone give me some information on how to determined the type of 
shielding to use (box type and thickness, feed through type and value)? 
What is necessary?  What is commonly used and what is affordable?
     
Thanks in advance,
     
Wade Barnes, Electronics Tech.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
    MC68HC16 Embedded Controllers and Software Development Tools    |
              WebPg   http://www.islandnet.com/~iii                 |
-------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Intec Inoventures Inc.       Phone   604-721-5150                   | 
2751 Arbutus Road            Fax         721-4191                   | 
Victoria   BC  V8N 5X7                                              | 
Canada                                                              | 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 00:22:03 1996
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From: "John Faubion" <jfaubion@beaches.net>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Dyno Stuff
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 17:48:48 -0500
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> Just might be useful to look at as an absorber for a dyno.  Of course
> Mr. Thermodynamics and other anally retentive types will quote me
> physics books saying its impossible - and the fact it is in production
> by a major heavy truck parts manufacturer will make little difference.

Robert, I guess you weren't reading the thread a while back about using a
"Telma" (another brand name for the device you describe) as a dynamometer.
This has been mentioned but no one has posted many details for using one.
It is an interesting idea though.

John Faubion
jfaubion@beaches.net

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 01:08:10 1996
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 21:06:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: John Napoli <jgn@li.net>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: steam!
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Good luck with your project.  Sounds intriguing.

John

On Sun, 15 Sep 1996, Robert J. Harris wrote:

> Remember the Reichstag
> 
> ----------
> > From: talltom <talltom@teleport.com>
> > To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> > Subject: Re: steam!
> > Date: Saturday, September 14, 1996 11:59 PM
> > 
> > 
> >   Allright! Anybody got any good ideas about how to reclaim the water
> when it's
> > been thru the engine?(Water isn't as plentyful as it used to be) Short of
> making
> > a deal with wppss(Another conceptually and financially bankrupt govt. -
> > washington public power supply system.) on a unused cooling tower that
> is.?
> >
> If you are truly interested in steam engines, the late 40's Americans seem
> to
> represent the height of the technology.  The south Africans used condensers
> and recycled the water on some of their steam engines.  On many tender 
> mounted booster engines the low pressure exhaust steam was vented directly
> back into the water supply.
> 
> With a steam piston engine, transmissions are totally useless.  Cut of
> steam = 
> parked, stopped - no need to idle.  Move valve to "forward", go forward. 
> Move
> valve to reverse, go backwards.  Change direction by changing how steam 
> admitted.  RPM limit is the destruction limit of engine.  Torque limit is
> by PSI 
> and size of piston.  Think of how small loco pistons were in comparison to
> the 10,000 plus ton loads they sometimes carried.   Also, road locomotives
> were almost universally limited to 300 PSI or less.
> 
> What you will have is the problems of external combustion and water
> recycling
> to have sufficient range.   Railroads had water towers at frequent
> intervals to
> avoid carrying more than a couple of hundred tons of water and coal at a
> time.
> 
> If they told you about 1200 PSI steam and the power from it, remember that 
> it is made at half the temperature reached in an IC engine.  For the
> skeptics,
> remember - 1cc of liquid water state changed to vapor (boiled) makes about
> 1800 cc of vapor.  Not a bad little expansion ration.
> 
> What I am tying to do is first build a self tuning controllable EFI for
> petrol fuels
> and then, inject a precisely metered amount of additional H2O to get the
> power
> of steam from the excess heat and avoid all the external combustion
> hassles.  
> 
> No it would not be as efficient as an external combustion engine, but it
> would
> be far simpler and I believe could develope a lot more power than the same
> amount of fuel in a straight IC engine.
> 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 01:08:10 1996
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Date: 	Tue, 17 Sep 1996 16:45:03 -0700
To: diy_efi
From: peter paul fenske <pfenske@direct.ca>
Subject: GM Coolant sensor
Message-Id: <96Sep17.180450-0700pdt.30187-1038+455@orb.direct.ca>
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Hi All

Here is some more sensor data for you guys. Gm used the same sensor
as a coolant sensor, a air temp sensor, and a oil temp sensor.

GM TEMP SENSOR DATA

TEMP(C)   RESISTANCE     VOLTS

100       177            1.29
90        241            1.8
80        332            2.24
70        467            2.6
60        667            3.0
50        973            3.6//1.0
45        1188           1.2
40        1459           1.28
35        1802           1.45
30        2238           1.85
25        2796           2.05
20        3520           2.4
15        4450           2.88
10        5670           3.1
5         7280           3.35
0         9420           3.5
-20       28680          4.4
-40       100700         4.9

The kink in the curve is because GM uses a 348 ohm
pullup above 50 degrees. Below it uses a 348 ohm in
series with a 3.65K resistor as a pullup.

A temp range of -40 to 151 degrees gives a range of 0-255H.

GL: peter          


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 01:15:40 1996
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 21:15:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: John Napoli <jgn@li.net>
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To: diy_efi
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This issue of thermodynamic efficiency is one of my hot points (ouch).

Fossil fuel plants use every trick in the book to recapture all the
'waste' BTUs that they can.  If you neglect the power used to run their
pollution devices (a parasitic loss), their overall efficiency is pretty
good - I recall numbers in the mid-40s.

Our gasoline engines in our cars do nothing to utilize the energy in the
waste heat.  Arre they 10%? 20% efficient overall?  I doubt 20% but lets
go with that number.

If we were able to utilize a third of the waste heat, wouldn't that make a
big difference?  Instead of raising CAFE with smaller and lighter cars, we
would raise it by being more efficient.  I doubt that all the EFI software
in the world will make much more MPG than we see right now.  I would like
to see something intelligent about using the waste heat.

John

On Mon, 16 Sep 1996, Robert J. Harris wrote:

> Remember the Reichstag
> 
> ----------
> > From: RABBITT_Andrew@mv8.orbeng.com.au
> > To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> > Subject: re: Math Question
> > Date: Monday, September 16, 1996 7:06 AM
> > 
> > 
> > >The point was, is, and always will be to try to combine the sheer  
> > >power of a steam engine with the simplicity of an IC engine.
> > 
> > You can't get something for nothing.  If you have 'sheer power' then 
> > you're also burning a lot of fuel too.  Bear in mind that most 
> > stationary steam plants are working at about 35% thermal efficiency 
> > (unless they're combined cycle plants), which a good IC engine can 
> > approach too!  Therefore just adding water to fuel in an IC engine is 
> > not going to give you vast increases of power.  What it might allow is 
> > to extend the characteristic limits of an engine by a small amount. 
> > (ie the knock limit)
> > 
> > >
> Let me see if I get this thermodynamic thing right.  I burn fuel, convert 
> between 20 and 30 percent to mechanical energy, heat up cooling 
> water and oil to 200 plus degrees, and throw away 50 per cent or 
> more of the energy as heat at 1300 plus degrees exhaust temperature 
> - enuff to send water boiling at 3600 psi - and there is only a little
> teeny 
> tiny amount of excess heat to convert water to steam in the chamber - 
> as an antidetontant?  I'm convinced.
> 
> I guess I just don't get the big picture.  Maybe water knows that it is 
> about to be injected into an engine and presto magic changes 
> characteristics and doesn't boil at 212 degrees or expand 1800 times 
> when it turns to steam when that happens in a combustion chamber.
> It just stops making 600 psi at 440 degrees so that heaven forbid any
> of that wasted heat might get converted to power.
> 
> Thank you for the thermodynamic and magic lesson.
> 
> 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 03:41:22 1996
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From: dzorde@aesprodata.com.au
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 11:44:15 
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To: diy_efi
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     Does anyone know if there's a positive curve temp sensor around, ie. 
     increasing voltage for increasing temp.  Would make life a lot easier 
     for analogue circuitry.
     
     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: GM Coolant sensor
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
Date:    9/18/96 10:52 AM


Hi All
     
Here is some more sensor data for you guys. Gm used the same sensor 
as a coolant sensor, a air temp sensor, and a oil temp sensor.
     
GM TEMP SENSOR DATA
     
TEMP(C)   RESISTANCE     VOLTS
     
100       177            1.29
90        241            1.8
80        332            2.24
70        467            2.6
60        667            3.0
50        973            3.6//1.0
45        1188           1.2
40        1459           1.28
35        1802           1.45
30        2238           1.85
25        2796           2.05
20        3520           2.4
15        4450           2.88
10        5670           3.1
5         7280           3.35
0         9420           3.5
-20       28680          4.4
-40       100700         4.9
     
The kink in the curve is because GM uses a 348 ohm 
pullup above 50 degrees. Below it uses a 348 ohm in 
series with a 3.65K resistor as a pullup.
     
A temp range of -40 to 151 degrees gives a range of 0-255H.
     
GL: peter          
     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 05:15:26 1996
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From: Darrell Norquay <dnorquay@awinc.com>
Subject: Re: Microcontroller shielding questions
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At 09:14 AM 9/17/96 PDT, Wade Barnes wrote:

>I am designing a small (2"x2") controller board for use in the automotive
>and robotics industries.  The board is based on the MC68HC16Z1
>microcontroller.  Since the engine compartment of a car is filled with EMI
>we are attempting to make the board as resistant as possible to the effects
>of the EMI.

>Can anyone give me some information on how to determined the type of
>shielding to use (box type and thickness, feed through type and value)?
>What is necessary?  What is commonly used and what is affordable?

Sorry, I can't quantify any of the EMI/RFI effects that you mentioned, I'd
be surprised if anyone could.  Mebbe stick the car in a Faraday cage and see
what you get.  As far as processor shielding, you would at least need a good
metal enclosure, some of the commercially available die cast aluminum boxes
would be ideal.  All wiring entering or leaving the box should run through a
feedthrough RFI filter.  The RFI filtered feedthrough DB style connectors
from Conec are very good.  They have a ferrite core through which all pins
run, some also have feedthrough capacitors.  The important thing here is to
have the bypass caps grounded to the box right where the wire comes through
the box.  Bypass caps on the circuit board are not enough.  Even an inch of
unbypassed wire in the box is enough to radiate RFI sufficient to scramble
the processor.  Panasonic and Phillips make nifty little RFI filters which
are essentially a feedthrough capacitor with a ferrite bead on each side of
the through line, forming a pi filter.  They are very effective.  

Filtering on the supply lines is a must, both power and ground, as well as
protection against transients and load dump.  Signal lines will also require
transient protection as well.  Use differential inputs on analog leads
wherever possible, this will minimize the effects of common mode noise and
ground differentials.  Shielded leads on all inputs are also a good idea,
but remember not to use the shield as a current carrying conductor and only
ground it at one end.  Use hard pullups on digital signals, and generally
keep impedances low to minimize noise pickup.  Take a tip from the OEM's and
use the body as shielding, ie mount the computer on the passenger
compartment side of the firewall.

You'll generally find that the protection and filtering circuitry that you
need will take up more board space than the controller itself, you'll have a
hard time fitting all this on a 2x2 board...  Consider making the system
building block style, with the controller as a piggyback module on the
signal conditioning board.  In this way, you can keep the controller
generic, and just make different signal conditioning boards for different
applications.  Some of the stuff I have suggested may seem like overkill,
but it's much better to overdesign the first time for any contingency.  A
few dollars worth of extra components will save many hours of dinking around
later.  Good luck, and keep us posted.

regards
dn
dnorquay@awinc.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 08:23:39 1996
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From: M HILL <EAXMJHI@ean2.mecheng.nottingham.ac.uk>
Organization:  Mech Eng, University of Nottingham
To: diy_efi
Date:          Wed, 18 Sep 1996 09:11:06 GMT0BST
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> Since we now have computers, we should be able to
> monitor something other than self destruct imminent and
> tweak and peak the timing in conjunction with the fuel
> to get optimum power and economy.
> 
> I truly hope that there are some good ideas out there.

By monitoring the pressure in the combustion chamber you can judge 
how well the ignition system is working, the problem with this is the 
price of the probes and the charge amplifiers required.  Another 
method is the spark ionisation.  Add another spark around 15 degrees 
after TDC.  The cylinder pressure should be at a peak around here.  
Then measure how long it takes for the ionisation current to decay 
from the spark.  This will tell you how much burning mixture there is 
at the time.  This is currently what I am looking at.  Another one 
you could try is looking at crankshaft acceleration.  Again something 
I will look at in the near future.  By measuring the max and min 
speed of the crankshaft you can tell which cylinders are firing 
better than others and hopefully sort out the timing and fuelling for 
them.  There will be problems with noise from the drivetrain 
however.  So there are ways, it is just a case of time and money and 
having the right equipment to measure what is happening and see if it 
will be useful.

Martin

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 09:42:42 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'John Napoli'" <jgn@li.net>
Subject: RE: Math Question
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 11:06:24 +-200
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Surly that is effectively what a turbo does to an extent, esp. in diesels ??? (I might have it wrong here)

Mark

----------
From:  John Napoli[SMTP:jgn@li.net]
Sent:  Tuesday, September 17, 1996 11:15 PM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Re: Math Question

This issue of thermodynamic efficiency is one of my hot points (ouch).

Fossil fuel plants use every trick in the book to recapture all the
'waste' BTUs that they can.  If you neglect the power used to run their
pollution devices (a parasitic loss), their overall efficiency is pretty
good - I recall numbers in the mid-40s.

Our gasoline engines in our cars do nothing to utilize the energy in the
waste heat.  Arre they 10%? 20% efficient overall?  I doubt 20% but lets
go with that number.

If we were able to utilize a third of the waste heat, wouldn't that make a
big difference?  Instead of raising CAFE with smaller and lighter cars, we
would raise it by being more efficient.  I doubt that all the EFI software
in the world will make much more MPG than we see right now.  I would like
to see something intelligent about using the waste heat.

John

On Mon, 16 Sep 1996, Robert J. Harris wrote:

> Remember the Reichstag
> 
> ----------
> > From: RABBITT_Andrew@mv8.orbeng.com.au
> > To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> > Subject: re: Math Question
> > Date: Monday, September 16, 1996 7:06 AM
> > 
> > 
> > >The point was, is, and always will be to try to combine the sheer  
> > >power of a steam engine with the simplicity of an IC engine.
> > 
> > You can't get something for nothing.  If you have 'sheer power' then 
> > you're also burning a lot of fuel too.  Bear in mind that most 
> > stationary steam plants are working at about 35% thermal efficiency 
> > (unless they're combined cycle plants), which a good IC engine can 
> > approach too!  Therefore just adding water to fuel in an IC engine is 
> > not going to give you vast increases of power.  What it might allow is 
> > to extend the characteristic limits of an engine by a small amount. 
> > (ie the knock limit)
> > 
> > >
> Let me see if I get this thermodynamic thing right.  I burn fuel, convert 
> between 20 and 30 percent to mechanical energy, heat up cooling 
> water and oil to 200 plus degrees, and throw away 50 per cent or 
> more of the energy as heat at 1300 plus degrees exhaust temperature 
> - enuff to send water boiling at 3600 psi - and there is only a little
> teeny 
> tiny amount of excess heat to convert water to steam in the chamber - 
> as an antidetontant?  I'm convinced.
> 
> I guess I just don't get the big picture.  Maybe water knows that it is 
> about to be injected into an engine and presto magic changes 
> characteristics and doesn't boil at 212 degrees or expand 1800 times 
> when it turns to steam when that happens in a combustion chamber.
> It just stops making 600 psi at 440 degrees so that heaven forbid any
> of that wasted heat might get converted to power.
> 
> Thank you for the thermodynamic and magic lesson.
> 
> 




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 09:42:43 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'DIY EFI'" <diy_efi>, "'James Weiler'"
	 <james@brc.ubc.ca>
Subject: RE: Off limits
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 10:59:53 +-200
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Thanks for the note dude:

I'm intending to start from scratch, having read everything else, I dont =
think I can do it any better, but I will learn a fair bit re-inventing =
the wheel ! I thought about using somebody elses electronics, but I have =
to get into designing in the engine compartment( besides which, I didnt =
buy a UV light box to etch PCBs with for nothing!.. I'd better be seen =
to be using it else my young lady will go apeshit about the pair of =
shoes she didnt get)

Mark.

----------
From:  James Weiler[SMTP:james@brc.ubc.ca]
Sent:  Tuesday, September 17, 1996 4:22 PM
To:  Mark Pitts
Subject:  Re: Off limits



On Tue, 17 Sep 1996, Mark Pitts wrote:

> Seems to me we are getting way way off topic guys, much as I enjoy the =
steam thing that is going on, and the discussion of weird heads and =
valves, I suspect that building new heads, or trying to perfect the =
automotive steam engine is way out of most of our capabilitys.
>=20
> I've decided to start my project by building a mapped ignition for a 4 =
,6 or 8 Cyl engine, with advance by looking up a pre programmed MAP and =
engine speed map in eprom.
>=20
> Havnt chosen the uP yet.. but I've given myself till Christmas (as =
that is the next time I'll see my ride 9boo sob snif)
>=20
> Mark
>=20
>=20
>=20
Howdy Mark.  Can I suggest using an EEC-IV ECU .  This wonderfull device =

uses part throttle and WOT spark maps for it's ignition.  I don't know =
if=20
it will function if it's not running the injectors though.  You'd know=20
more about fooling it than I.
Just a thought.
P.S. I've seen a web site for a digital ign. system.  I think you can =
get=20
to it from the DIY EFI home page.  You've probably already checked this=20
one out though.
later dude
jw



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 09:42:43 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'John Faubion'"
	 <jfaubion@beaches.net>
Subject: RE: Dyno Stuff
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 11:04:06 +-200
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I started the whole thread as a 'Lets take a truck axle, and use its =
brakes as a dyno for short power runs.

I'll be interested in the Telma thing, if I could find out a rough =
price... But I still think for short power runs, and my back bocket, the =
old axle idea is going to be the cheapest for me! (but I have access to =
engineering stuff for making up adapter plates etc.)

mark


----------
From:  John Faubion[SMTP:jfaubion@beaches.net]
Sent:  Wednesday, September 18, 1996 12:49 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Re: Dyno Stuff

> Just might be useful to look at as an absorber for a dyno.  Of course
> Mr. Thermodynamics and other anally retentive types will quote me
> physics books saying its impossible - and the fact it is in production
> by a major heavy truck parts manufacturer will make little difference.

Robert, I guess you weren't reading the thread a while back about using =
a
"Telma" (another brand name for the device you describe) as a =
dynamometer.
This has been mentioned but no one has posted many details for using =
one.
It is an interesting idea though.

John Faubion
jfaubion@beaches.net



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 09:42:52 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'Robert J. Harris'" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>,
        "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: Timing - Ignition
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 10:27:48 +-200
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If there aren't any good ideas, better go and buy some new pistons 

Mark ;-)


----------
From:  Robert J. Harris[SMTP:bob@bobthecomputerguy.com]
Sent:  Tuesday, September 17, 1996 7:25 PM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Timing - Ignition

Subject: Ignition timing in conjunction with EFI

There appears to exist a number of sensors to build
an excellent self tuning EFI, yet the only sensor that
anyone talks about for ignition timing is a knock 
sensor that just tells me - oops too much - 
self destruct sequence initiated.

Factory curves and random published curves are all
that most without dynes have to work with.  Back in 
the bad old days, (pre computer) the killer secret for
street tuning was to advance the static initial timing
watching rpm and vacuum, until you got the max 
you could get and still start the engine, then put a
sping kit in adjust the mechanical until the total was
the same as what ever your guru of choice had
dicated.  Look for ping or knock, then put some
more in.  It works but had too much PFM (Pure F___ng
Majic) to be reliable for all engines.   Since then, many
bandaid seem to have appeared.

Since we now have computers, we should be able to
monitor something other than self destruct imminent and
tweak and peak the timing in conjunction with the fuel
to get optimum power and economy.

I truly hope that there are some good ideas out there.


Remember the Reichstag

----------




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 10:31:51 1996
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Anybody knows how much ist a L-Jetronic or a Motronic injection 
system? Tell me please, where can I it find.

	Lady M from Spain.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 11:39:05 1996
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From: Jay Snyder <jsnyder@microserve.net>
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On Wed, 18 Sep 1996 dzorde@aesprodata.com.au wrote:

> 
>      Does anyone know if there's a positive curve temp sensor around, ie. 
>      increasing voltage for increasing temp.  Would make life a lot easier 
>      for analogue circuitry.
>      
>      Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au
> 

You could use an inverter.

Jay



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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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On Tue, 17 Sep 1996, John Napoli wrote:
  I would like
> to see something intelligent about using the waste heat.

What about turbos? Does anyone have any data on whether adding a turbo 
charger increases thermodynamic effeciency?


****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 12:43:32 1996
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>
>     Does anyone know if there's a positive curve temp sensor around, ie. 
>     increasing voltage for increasing temp.  Would make life a lot easier 
>     for analogue circuitry.
>     
>     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au

I thought that's what inverting amps were for.
Tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 13:30:30 1996
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From: John Napoli <jgn@li.net>
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To: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
cc: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi>
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Yes, and the key phrase is 'to an extent'.  There is still a lot of waste
heat out the tail pipe and in the radiator and etc.  A turbo is a step in
the right direction but there are still a lot of BTUs being 'wasted'.

John

On Wed, 18 Sep 1996, Mark Pitts wrote:

> Surly that is effectively what a turbo does to an extent, esp. in diesels ??? (I might have it wrong here)
> 
> Mark
> 
> ----------
> From:  John Napoli[SMTP:jgn@li.net]
> Sent:  Tuesday, September 17, 1996 11:15 PM
> To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:  Re: Math Question
> 
> This issue of thermodynamic efficiency is one of my hot points (ouch).
> 
> Fossil fuel plants use every trick in the book to recapture all the
> 'waste' BTUs that they can.  If you neglect the power used to run their
> pollution devices (a parasitic loss), their overall efficiency is pretty
> good - I recall numbers in the mid-40s.
> 
> Our gasoline engines in our cars do nothing to utilize the energy in the
> waste heat.  Arre they 10%? 20% efficient overall?  I doubt 20% but lets
> go with that number.
> 
> If we were able to utilize a third of the waste heat, wouldn't that make a
> big difference?  Instead of raising CAFE with smaller and lighter cars, we
> would raise it by being more efficient.  I doubt that all the EFI software
> in the world will make much more MPG than we see right now.  I would like
> to see something intelligent about using the waste heat.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 15:57:45 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Dyno Stuff
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 08:36:11 -0700
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Mark, DYI_EFI

EMF retarders have been around for at least 15 years on various
heavy vehicles like trucks, buss's etc.  Used one's should be
available in heavy vehicle boneyanrds. Newer ones are smaller,
lighter and cost more. Prices vary by customer attitude, time
of day, need for commission and just for the fun of it - typical
boneyard pricing structure.  Old city buss's typically have
them - Jake Brake's suck in rich neighborhoods.

They fit in the driveline - after the transmission - sort of like an
overdirve transmission kit.  Will post the cost and dimensions
when I get them.  Sorry I missed the opening parts of the
dyno thread.



Remember the Reichstag - don' let Billie repeat it



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 17:05:54 1996
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 11:59:10 -0500
From: Doug Rorem <rorem@cherokee.eecs.uic.edu>
Subject: Re: Jake Brakes & dynos
To: diy_efi
Message-Id: <rorem-9608181659.AA00029830@cherokee.eecs.uic.edu>
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>From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
>>Mark, DYI_EFI
>>
>>EMF retarders have been around for at least 15 years on various
>>heavy vehicles like trucks, buss's etc.  Used one's should be
>>available in heavy vehicle boneyanrds. Newer ones are smaller,
>>lighter and cost more. Prices vary by customer attitude, time
>>of day, need for commission and just for the fun of it - typical
>>boneyard pricing structure.  Old city buss's typically have
>>them - Jake Brake's suck in rich neighborhoods.

 The Jake Brake (Jacobs engine brake) on trucks don't work by EMF. It
causes the engine to become an air compressor when the driver engages
it (typically when they take their foot completely off the throttle). They
have a Jacobs driveline brake which does work by EMF. Their WWW site:

http://www.jakebrake.com

>>
>>They fit in the driveline - after the transmission - sort of like an
>>overdirve transmission kit.  Will post the cost and dimensions
>>when I get them.  Sorry I missed the opening parts of the
>>dyno thread.
>>
>>
>>
>>Remember the Reichstag - don' let Billie repeat it
>>

--
Doug Rorem
University of Illinois at Chicago         (312)-996-5439  [voice]
EECS Department  RM 1120                  (312)-413-1065  [fax]
851 S. Morgan Street                      (708)-996-2226  [pager]
Chicago, IL 60607-7053                    rorem@uic.edu

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 17:05:58 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'John Napoli'" <jgn@li.net>, Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
Cc: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: Math Question
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 18:58:09 +-200
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Thought I was vaguely on the right track.... Now.... Water.

Is this the case:

Water absorbs energy as it does the transition from liquid to gas. This =
transition is 1 Joule per cc.

So by letting the water absorb the energy, without increasing gas temp, =
but definitly increasing cylinder pressure, we are absorbing heat, and =
turning it into torque???

Just want to make sure that I'm not being stupid!

Mark ;-)


----------
From:  John Napoli[SMTP:jgn@li.net]
Sent:  Wednesday, September 18, 1996 11:25 AM
To:  Mark Pitts
Cc:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  RE: Math Question

Yes, and the key phrase is 'to an extent'.  There is still a lot of =
waste
heat out the tail pipe and in the radiator and etc.  A turbo is a step =
in
the right direction but there are still a lot of BTUs being 'wasted'.

John

On Wed, 18 Sep 1996, Mark Pitts wrote:

> Surly that is effectively what a turbo does to an extent, esp. in =
diesels ??? (I might have it wrong here)
>=20
> Mark
>=20
> ----------
> From:  John Napoli[SMTP:jgn@li.net]
> Sent:  Tuesday, September 17, 1996 11:15 PM
> To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:  Re: Math Question
>=20
> This issue of thermodynamic efficiency is one of my hot points (ouch).
>=20
> Fossil fuel plants use every trick in the book to recapture all the
> 'waste' BTUs that they can.  If you neglect the power used to run =
their
> pollution devices (a parasitic loss), their overall efficiency is =
pretty
> good - I recall numbers in the mid-40s.
>=20
> Our gasoline engines in our cars do nothing to utilize the energy in =
the
> waste heat.  Arre they 10%? 20% efficient overall?  I doubt 20% but =
lets
> go with that number.
>=20
> If we were able to utilize a third of the waste heat, wouldn't that =
make a
> big difference?  Instead of raising CAFE with smaller and lighter =
cars, we
> would raise it by being more efficient.  I doubt that all the EFI =
software
> in the world will make much more MPG than we see right now.  I would =
like
> to see something intelligent about using the waste heat.
>=20
> John
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 19:00:13 1996
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Message-ID: <324042B6.24B@net-quest.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 11:43:02 -0700
From: Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>
Organization: Protomotive Engineering
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Injection systems prices
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Marta Puig wrote:
> 
> Anybody knows how much ist a L-Jetronic or a Motronic injection
> system? Tell me please, where can I it find.
> 
>         Lady M from Spain.


Lady M,
	We typically see used computers from the 911's in the $300.00 to
$600.00 range.  Rebuilt cores go for around $650.00 U.S.Dollars.  These
are Motronics units from the 84-89 911's  The later stuff costs more.

Todd Knighton
Protomotive Engineering

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 19:01:40 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Jake Brakes & dynos
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 11:54:20 -0700
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No scat sherlock, noisy as hell and not
found like EMF units on buss's and other
vehicles that have to operate in quiet 
neighborhoods.

All that Clinton wants is every thing Hitler had -
      Remember the Reichstag!!!

----------
> From: Doug Rorem <rorem@cherokee.eecs.uic.edu>
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: Jake Brakes & dynos
> Date: Wednesday, September 18, 1996 9:59 AM
> 
>  The Jake Brake (Jacobs engine brake) on trucks don't work by EMF. It
> causes the engine to become an air compressor when the driver engages
> it (typically when they take their foot completely off the throttle).
They
> have a Jacobs driveline brake which does work by EMF. Their WWW site:
> 
> http://www.jakebrake.com
> 
> >>


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 19:31:17 1996
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Subject: Re: Math Question
To: diy_efi
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 21:09:17 +0200 (sat)
From: Kalle Pihlajasaari <kalle@device.data.co.za>
In-Reply-To: <01BBA593.8C59EDE0@speed.demon.nl> from "Mark Pitts" at Sep 18, 96 06:58:09 pm
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Hi,

> Thought I was vaguely on the right track.... Now.... Water.
> 
> Is this the case:
> 
> Water absorbs energy as it does the transition from liquid to gas. This =
> transition is 1 Joule per cc.

It is one Joule / deg / cc of specific heat (not a phase change)

For the latent heat of vaporisation it is many Joules / cc (like 1500
Joules or something) This is why steam burns you much worse than
boiling hot water.

> So by letting the water absorb the energy, without increasing gas temp, =
> but definitly increasing cylinder pressure, we are absorbing heat, and =
> turning it into torque???

Well turning to pressure, remember the burn quality will be compromised
at some point from too much water but you certainly will get more
steam.  Also the problem with steam is if it starts to condense
at high pressure at the lower portion of the cylinder then you have
a sudden drop in pressure.  All the other noxious gasses will not condense
until they get real cold and then only some of them.

The waste heat problem is also somewhat under scrutiny by the
ceramic motor people who want to do away with cooling and run the
engine hot for a good burn but not loose the heat in a radiator,
just reaise teh temp once and then use better design to make the
engined more adiabatic (I think the word is) and circulate the heat.

Turbines all use regenerators to get some of the heat back from the
exhaust gasses into the compressed air, they do not have the ait density
problem of valved engines so are able to increase the pressure and air
velocity to make up for the hotter input air.

What sort of electronics are to be found in turbine and Wankel
cars.  They came out long time ago with mechanical fueling but the
occasional few these days might have electronics, dunno.

Cheers
-- 
Kalle Pihlajasaari     kalle@data.co.za
Interface Products     Box 15775, Doornfontein, 2028, South Africa
+27 (11) 402-7750      Fax: +27 (11) 402-7751

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 19:36:24 1996
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From: Jay Snyder <jsnyder@microserve.net>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Jake Brakes & dynos
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What is an EMF retarder?

-- J.



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 20:33:44 1996
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 15:23:06 -0500
From: Doug Rorem <rorem@cherokee.eecs.uic.edu>
Subject: Re: Jake Brakes & dynos
To: diy_efi
Message-Id: <rorem-9608182023.AA000110297@cherokee.eecs.uic.edu>
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>>What is an EMF retarder?
>>
>>-- J.
>>
>>
EMF = ElectroMagnetic Force

from http://www.jakebrake.com/products/theory/dlbtheory.html

The Jacobs Driveline Brake is an electro-magnetic supplemental braking system that is
mounted between the vehicle's transmission and rear axle. When an electric current is
fed to the brake, it passes through coils and creates a magnetic field. This magnetic field
creates drag. This drag opposes the normal rotation of the driveshaft, thereby slowing the
vehicle down.

--
Doug Rorem
University of Illinois at Chicago         (312)-996-5439  [voice]
EECS Department  RM 1120                  (312)-413-1065  [fax]
851 S. Morgan Street                      (708)-996-2226  [pager]
Chicago, IL 60607-7053                    rorem@uic.edu

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 22:15:34 1996
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Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 14:42:21 +0200
From: hoss karoly <timothy@bekes.hungary.net>
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John Napoli wrote:
> 
> This issue of thermodynamic efficiency is one of my hot points (ouch).
> 
> Fossil fuel plants use every trick in the book to recapture all the
> 'waste' BTUs that they can.  If you neglect the power used to run their
> pollution devices (a parasitic loss), their overall efficiency is pretty
> good - I recall numbers in the mid-40s.
> 
> Our gasoline engines in our cars do nothing to utilize the energy in the
> waste heat.  Arre they 10%? 20% efficient overall?  I doubt 20% but lets
> go with that number.
I had the same feeeling before .
in fact I plan to build some peltier-cells on my engine
to charge my battery 
who knows ? maybe I can eliminate the generator and save power

BTW does anybody knows how the H-O cells work ? is it possible to build
one
wich work with gasoline and air to produce electricity ?
the heat-cells work at a 70-80% eff. range

bye
charley



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 18 22:26:05 1996
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What is typically used for the source of the electric current?  me

At 03:23 PM 9/18/96 -0500, you wrote:
>>>What is an EMF retarder?
>>>
>>>-- J.
>>>
>>>
>EMF = ElectroMagnetic Force
>
>from http://www.jakebrake.com/products/theory/dlbtheory.html
>
>The Jacobs Driveline Brake is an electro-magnetic supplemental braking
system that is
>mounted between the vehicle's transmission and rear axle. When an electric
current is
>fed to the brake, it passes through coils and creates a magnetic field.
This magnetic field
>creates drag. This drag opposes the normal rotation of the driveshaft,
thereby slowing the
>vehicle down.
>
>--
>Doug Rorem
>University of Illinois at Chicago         (312)-996-5439  [voice]
>EECS Department  RM 1120                  (312)-413-1065  [fax]
>851 S. Morgan Street                      (708)-996-2226  [pager]
>Chicago, IL 60607-7053                    rorem@uic.edu
>
>
***************************************************************************
* Mark Eidson                        Voice: (602)752-6513                 *
* Staff Design Engineer                Fax: (602)752-6000                 *
* Manager System Integration and                                          *
*   Verification                    E-Mail:  mark.eidson@tempe.vlsi.com   *
* VLSI Technology, Inc.                                                   *
* 8375 South River Parkway                                                *
* M/S 265                                                                 *
* Tempe, Arizona     85284                                                *
***************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 00:39:35 1996
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 10:28:47 +1000
To: diy_efi
From: lambs@HOTBLK.dsto.defence.gov.au (Stephen Lamb)
Subject: Re: Jake Brakes & dynos
Cc: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
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>All that Clinton wants is every thing Hitler had -
>      Remember the Reichstag!!!


OK,OK.........enough already.  The first few times was a vague
annoyance.....but now I just delete the messages that start with this 'tag'
without bothering with the rest of the message.

Apparently it has something more to do with American politics than the
actual Reichstag incident (which I DO know a little about).  Whatever....it
has little to do with this list, please take it to alt.politics (or
something like that).

This is NOT a flame - and a flame war will not be entered into - just a cry
that enough is enough.

Cheers

Stephen Lamb
Dept. of Defence DSTO, AMRL
506 Lorimer Street
Fishermans Bend  VIC  3207 Australia
Tel: +61 3 9626 7525
Fax: +61 3 9626 7089

IZCC #180



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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 17:49:45 -0700
To: diy_efi
From: Sandy <sganz@westworld.com>
Subject: Re: Kinsler fuel injection catalog??
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Yes, I have it. Their is some good things in it.They get I think 12 buck for
it. And their prices are kinda' expensive. The have a lot of older EFI
(continous flow hilborn) stuff. Just call them up, they take plastic.

Sandy

At 11:33 AM 9/17/96 +1000, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I saw a tiny advert in a magazine for Kinsler fuel injection in Troy,
>Michigan (usa), and apparently they have a catalog with about 100 pages
>of cool stuff in it.
>
>Has anyone got this catalog, & if so how can the rest of us get one?
>
>Cheers,
>Craig.
>pugsley@trl.oz.au
>
>


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 00:55:15 1996
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From: jac@wave.sheridan.wy.us
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 18:30:14 PDT
Subject: waste heat
To: diy_efi
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An excellent opportunity for waste heat utilization is to 
run all of the accessories from a small turbine or piston 
motor driven by a the expansion of a fluid heated by 
exhaust heat.  Most cars are already packing around some 
of key the components in the form of an air conditioning 
system.  

If there is any excess power after the electric, power 
steering, heating and other needs are met, feed it back 
into the power train through a belt with an alternator 
tricked up as a brushless DC motor.  

While your at it figure out a piezo electric device in a 
can to make electricity out of noise to replace the 
conventional muffler.

john carroll
-------------------------------------
jac@wave.sheridan.wy.us
 09/18/96 18:30:14




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 00:55:15 1996
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 96 08:48:44 
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re[2]: GM Coolant sensor
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     That is what they are for, but wouldn,t it be great to get rid of an 
     op-amp.  Hence try and reduce the amount of circuitry required.  
     Something like a simple LCD temp read out (very useful for diff, 
     gearbox and water in race cars), temp sensor, a small resistor divider 
     and a panel meter, and its guarranteed to be very reliable, once you 
     start throwing in op-amps, etc.  you need very steady power supply 
     rails to avoid inaccurate readings.  So is there a positive temp 
     coefficient sensor around ? (could always make one if I have to, but 
     its easier if there's a car that's already using one).
     
     
     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au 


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: GM Coolant sensor
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
Date:    9/18/96 11:19 PM


>     Does anyone know if there's a positive curve temp sensor around, ie. 
>     increasing voltage for increasing temp.  Would make life a lot easier 
>     for analogue circuitry.
>     
>     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au
     
I thought that's what inverting amps were for. 
Tom
     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 01:14:07 1996
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 18:04:06 +0000
From: Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>
Organization: Protomotive Engineering
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Hellppp.
	Got stuck with this car that has an old Electromotive TEC-I with a 23D
eprom and it needs a program called "CAL" to work with it.  Anybody out
there have one or know where to get it.  In the Electromotive Manual it
gives a description of the units/eproms/calibration software and next to
this one it says (obsolete),  oh boy, more fun!
	If anyone has worked with this system maybe you could answer this
question.  We got the car with no calibration software, and according to
the manual there's no way to upload the parameters from the unit to the
PC, or is there?  It looks like all you can do is download from the PC
to the Electromotive TEC unit so do we have to start all over again,
even though we have a calibration that's mildly close to where it should
be?
	Any help would be appreciated! <:(

Todd Knighton
Protomotive Engineering

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 03:22:45 1996
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Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 22:15:11 -0500
From: Doug Rorem <rorem@cherokee.eecs.uic.edu>
Subject: Re: Jake Brakes & dynos
To: diy_efi
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>>What is typically used for the source of the electric current?  me

I assume it's the vehicle's 12V (or 24V?) electrical system. The Jacobs
Driveline brake takes quite a bit of current (249 Amps worst case!).
This would mean a fairly hefty power source would be required for use
in a dyno. They (Jacobs) also don't really say what the duty cycle of
the device is.. It probably overheats if you try to use it continuously.
As someone noted previously, it seems easier to create rotating energy
than it is to get rid of it!

 [table from] http://www.jakebrake.com/products/perftables/tDriveBrake.html

Jacobs   Braking     Max. Brake Weight   Amperage  Max.       Vehicle Weight
Models   HP@RPM*     Torque     (lbs.)   Drawn     Stop & Go  weight Long
                     (ft lbs)**          (Amps)               Descent (lbs)

12JC10   134 @ 2500  289        154      115       13,800     8,000
12JC12   152 @ 2500  362        225      123       15,400     8,800
12JC16   198 @ 2500  470        227      149       17,600     11,000
12JC20   265 @ 2500  579        267      166       19,800     13,200
12JC25   332 @ 2500  723        322      145       28,600     15,400


12JC30   403 @ 2500  868        379      249       39,000     26,000
12JC40   483 @ 2500  1,157      534      177       41,800     33,000
12JC50   559 @ 2500  1,447      736      187       48,400     37,400
12JC65   728 @ 2500  1,881      864      184       96,800     73,700
12JC75   766 @ 2500  2,170      948      197      110,000     83,600

12JC80   817 @ 2500  2,315      977      213      110,000     88,000
12JC10LC 134 @ 2500  289        267      41.1      13,800      8,000
12JC12LC 152 @ 2500  362        322      36.3      15,400      8,800
12JC16LC 198 @ 2500  470        379      62.25     17,600     11,000

* Estimated
** Torque values are a more precise measurement of braking performance.

>>
>>At 03:23 PM 9/18/96 -0500, you wrote:
>>>>>What is an EMF retarder?
>>>>>
>>>>>-- J.
>>>>>
>>>EMF = ElectroMagnetic Force
>>>
>>>from http://www.jakebrake.com/products/theory/dlbtheory.html
>>>
>>>The Jacobs Driveline Brake is an electro-magnetic supplemental braking
>>>system that is mounted between the vehicle's transmission and rear axle.
>>>When an electric current is fed to the brake, it passes through coils and
>>>creates a magnetic field.  This magnetic field creates drag. This drag
>>>opposes the normal rotation of the driveshaft, thereby slowing the
>>>vehicle down.
>>>

--
Doug Rorem
University of Illinois at Chicago         (312)-996-5439  [voice]
EECS Department  RM 1120                  (312)-413-1065  [fax]
851 S. Morgan Street                      (708)-996-2226  [pager]
Chicago, IL 60607-7053                    rorem@uic.edu

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 04:22:53 1996
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From: Carter Hendricks <carterh@crl.com>
To: diy_efi
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Subject: Re: Jake Brakes & dynos
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{electro mumble jumble deleted}

But this isn't how Jakes used to work, is it.

I rode in trucks with Jakes when I was too young
to understand just how they worked [someone tell 
us!] but the sound was wonderful!
	
				--Carter

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 04:33:22 1996
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From: Jennifer Rose <javer96@snowcrest.net>
Subject: GM eprom help
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Hello All


        I would like to get some information on how to change the settings
in a GM eprom. My project vehicle is a 74 Chevy pickup with a TPI unit out
of a 86 Camaro. The unit has been in the truck for about a year. Wanted to
use code for a 89 eprom, so the cold start injector can be removed. Need to
bypass the vehicle anti theft (VATS) part of programming. Thanks in advance
for the help.




                                                Thanks
                                                       Vance


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To: diy_efi
From: Darrell Norquay <dnorquay@awinc.com>
Subject: Re: GM Coolant sensor
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At 11:44 AM 9/18/96, Dan wrote:

>     Does anyone know if there's a positive curve temp sensor around, ie. 
>     increasing voltage for increasing temp.  Would make life a lot easier 
>     for analogue circuitry.
>     

There are a couple of solid state sensors which come to mind.  Analog
Devices has the AD590, which is a current output device.  It outputs a
current of 1uA per degree Kelvin.  Thus, at 0C it delivers 273uA, and at
100C it delivers 373uA.  Run this through a resistor and you have whatever
voltage you want, but you still have to deal with the offset.  The other
device worth looking into is the National Semiconductor LM34/35 series.
This device puts out 10 mV per degree C (LM35) or degree F (LM34), but in
most cases requires a negative supply voltage to get temp readings below
zero.  Unfortunately, neither is going to eliminate the opamp, since both
signal levels are too low for most A/D converters, and both will need some
offset to allow readings of temps below zero.  There are positive temp
coefficient thermistors available, but thermistors are very nonlinear.

BTW, just because a thermistor has a negative tempco, doesn't mean you can
only get a negative slope voltage out of it.  Consider a voltage divider
with a resistor tied to the supply, in series with the thermistor to ground:

               v+                             v+             
               |                              |              
               R1                            Th1           
               |                              |            
               +----out                       +----out     
               |                              |             
              Th1                             R1              
               |                              |               
              ---                            ---              
             Fig 1                          Fig 2

The circuit of Fig 1 will give a decreasing voltage with increasing temp.
However, if you reverse the positions of the resistor and the thermistor, as
in Fig 2, you will also reverse the slope of the output voltage, and thus
have a positive slope output even though the sensor itself has a negative slope.



regards
dn
dnorquay@awinc.com


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 06:24:40 1996
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To: diy_efi
CC: HIHA@GNF99M.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de
Subject: Re: Hardened Valve Seats
References: <BDE5F164DB@brain.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de>
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Hans--

Wie Gehts?  Just wanted to let you know I hadn't forgotten about the 
seat
material.  Checked the SAE books we have--specs for valves, but not
seats.  Checked the General Motors Materials books, but no mention I
could find.  Took a cursory look at the ASM (Am. Society of Materials)
Handbook, which goes into a million grades of steel, but no applications
for those materials in the section I checked.  Has been very busy at
work, but when it slows down for a heartbeat or two, I'll keep looking.
If I strike out at work, I'll make a Saturday morning visit to the
machine shop and check their catalogs for specs.
Cheers.
 

--
My other Triumph doesn't run, either....


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 06:48:54 1996
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Bob Harris has mentioned a desire to inject water at a precise point in the
combustion cycle just for grins to see what happens. I'd think one would
want to 
preheat the water to little less than the boiling point, and then inject
after the
combustion was well on it's way so you wouldn't snuff it. I also imagine that 
ceramic coatings on the water handling hardware would do wonders for component
life. Anyhow I believe there may be an existing engine suited to this. The
little
Plymouth(I think they called them champ, or chimp) had a 3rd lobe on the cam
that
actuated a 3rd valve for what they called a "stratified charge". Had
something to do 
with putting a proper mixture around the plug, and lean everywhere else.
There was an adjustment on the rocker arm so you could play with that for
timing. I'd imagine that
some type of mechanical injector could be machined into the space used by
the stratified charge system.
   And I don't think you're nuts!   


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 06:56:22 1996
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From: dzorde@aesprodata.com.au
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	id AA843170217 Thu, 19 Sep 96 14:56:57 
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 96 14:56:57 
Message-Id: <9608198431.AA843170217@afcperth.aesprodata.com.au>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re[2]: GM Coolant sensor
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Thanks, unfortunately the sensor is normally tied to ground when screwed into 
the block or other places of metal, so turning a NTC thermistor into a PTC 
thermistor becomes a bit of a mess, although not impossible.  I may just get a 
PTC thermistor and encapsulate it in a brass plug to produce the temp sensor.  
Quite easy, but it would still be easier to buy one.

Dan     dzorde@aesprodata.com.au 

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: GM Coolant sensor
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
Date:    9/19/96 2:46 PM

<snip> <snip> <snip>
     
               v+                             v+             
               |                              |              
               R1                            Th1           
               |                              |            
               +----out                       +----out     
               |                              |             
              Th1                             R1              
               |                              |               
              ---                            ---              
             Fig 1                          Fig 2
     
The circuit of Fig 1 will give a decreasing voltage with increasing temp. 
However, if you reverse the positions of the resistor and the thermistor, as 
in Fig 2, you will also reverse the slope of the output voltage, and thus
have a positive slope output even though the sensor itself has a negative slope.
     
     
     
regards
dn
dnorquay@awinc.com
     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 07:09:59 1996
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>------------------------------
>
>From: Ennis Bragg <gt9803a@prism.gatech.edu>
>Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 11:40:27 -0400 (EDT)
>Subject: Re: Kinsler fuel injection catalog??
>
>> I saw a tiny advert in a magazine for Kinsler fuel injection in Troy,
>> Michigan (usa), and apparently they have a catalog with about 100 pages
>> of cool stuff in it.
>> 
>> Has anyone got this catalog, & if so how can the rest of us get one?
>
>Here's some info out of an ad in SCCA's Sportscar magazine.(Sept.96,pg43)
>
>Kinsler Fuel Injection
>1834-K Thunderbird
>Troy, MI 48084
>
>Phone:  810-362-1145
>Fax:	810-362-1032
>
>Send check or money order. no COD or credit cards are accepted for catalog
>Catalog Price:  $12.00 (US)
>
>"Our 92 page handbook/catalog is the bible on RACING FUEL INJECTION."
>
>This is all straight from their add.
>
>hope it helps

As one who's seen some of their work, and needs something like what they make,
it does help. It tells me they have an attitude and think pretty highly of
themselves.(no cod accepted for the much higher than cost catalog)
   Being as they aren't smart enough to figuire out that throttle plates 
on both sides of an engine need to open the same way in order to be consistent
I imagine that I'll have to build one for myself as compared to modify theirs.
The reason for this is that I doubt that they're the type I'll do any deal with.

    The reason I put this in here is so that some of the students who may
indeed 
be in a marketing position in the future may want to consider it.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 07:25:01 1996
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>------------------------------
>
>From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
>Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 10:25:23 -0700
>Subject: Timing - Ignition
>
>Subject: Ignition timing in conjunction with EFI
>
>There appears to exist a number of sensors to build
>an excellent self tuning EFI, yet the only sensor that
>anyone talks about for ignition timing is a knock 
>sensor that just tells me - oops too much - 
>self destruct sequence initiated.

Not me! I'm full of it! But I'll definetly have to agree with your synopsis
so far!

>Factory curves and random published curves are all
>that most without dynes have to work with.  Back in 
>the bad old days, (pre computer) the killer secret for
>street tuning was to advance the static initial timing
>watching rpm and vacuum, until you got the max 
>you could get and still start the engine, then put a
>sping kit in adjust the mechanical until the total was
>the same as what ever your guru of choice had
>dicated.  Look for ping or knock, then put some
>more in.  It works but had too much PFM (Pure F___ng
>Majic) to be reliable for all engines.   Since then, many
>bandaid seem to have appeared.

Hear here! The BS never stops!

>Since we now have computers, we should be able to
>monitor something other than self destruct imminent and
>tweak and peak the timing in conjunction with the fuel
>to get optimum power and economy.

YEAH!

>I truly hope that there are some good ideas out there.
>

All kinds of stuff! 84 Datsun z cars had a factory g-meter on board, although
limited to .5 g's.(A good hard launch at the strip is at least 3g's.)
It may be that the current gear may be needed to be taken into account, but I
don't see it as mandatory. Vacuum is still a viable indicator, although one 
needs to consider that an efficient engine will be throttle per cyl. Another 
thing to keep in mind is system speed. To fast will read pulsations in vacuum,
to slow will adjust timing after destruction, at which point it's immaterial.
   It would also seem to me that the thing should have a learn mode that would 
be able to tune for varying load.(In my case from 7000lb-17000lb, without
trailer)
   I have to think that there is already out there somewhere some dyno loading/
running software that could be used to avoid reinventing the wheel.
My inclination would be to set up a graph of rpm/vacuum and have the processor
wiggle the timing and pulse width within a percentage to achieve best
acceleration.
It may even be possible to setup the jigling parameters so that they are done as
a subroutine that is specifiable for a vacuum or rpm range.(Hope ya'll excuse
the 1977 basic terminology:-)
   
>Remember the Reichstag

I do, and see the same mo happening frequently today.

>- ----------
>



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 07:27:29 1996
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 17:16:44 +1000
To: diy_efi
From: lambs@HOTBLK.dsto.defence.gov.au (Stephen Lamb)
Subject: Re: Hardened Valve Seats
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>Wie Gehts?  Just wanted to let you know I hadn't forgotten about the
>seat
>material.  Checked the SAE books we have--specs for valves, but not
>seats.  Checked the General Motors Materials books, but no mention I

One material used for 'hardened' valve seats is Stellite, which is a Cobalt
based alloy. Also used a facing material on the valve itself.  I can get
specs if you want.

Stephen Lamb
Dept. of Defence DSTO, AMRL
506 Lorimer Street
Fishermans Bend  VIC  3207 Australia
Tel: +61 3 9626 7525
Fax: +61 3 9626 7089

IZCC #180



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 09:20:40 1996
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From: "Hans Hintermaier" <HIHA@GNF99M.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de>
Organization:  LMU-GRH Dept. of Neurology
To: diy_efi
Date:          Thu, 19 Sep 1996 09:32:48 MET
Subject: Re: Jake Brakes & dynos
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> 
> All that Clinton wants is every thing Hitler had -
>       Remember the Reichstag!!!
> 
Can anybody explain that to me?   Offline!

Hans



 
hiha@ brain.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de
Munich / Germany

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 11:16:15 1996
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From: pfontana@netline.totobit.it (fontana pasquale)
Subject: about teflon-oil
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HELLO TO ALL

Have anyone take, purchase, drink etc. etc. any type of oil with teflon??

Do you know the oil type with " CENTRILIUM " ???

Thanks for "those helpers" .



PASQUALE            
                 ***
                **                \||/
              *    *<nigth&day>   ('') 


PASQUALE 
----------- address phone & mailing---------------------------------
 FONTANA Ing. Pasquale 

         Via Stazione 24 

         89055  GALLICO MAR. (REGGIO CAL.)

         ITALY

E-MAIL: pfontana@netline.totobit.it

phone:  0039 965 863404

fax  :  0039 965 863244 

-------------------------------------------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 12:25:09 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Hardened Valve Seats
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On Thu, 19 Sep 1996, Stephen Lamb wrote:

> >Wie Gehts?  Just wanted to let you know I hadn't forgotten about the
> >seat
> >material.  Checked the SAE books we have--specs for valves, but not
> >seats.  Checked the General Motors Materials books, but no mention I
> 
> One material used for 'hardened' valve seats is Stellite, which is a Cobalt
> based alloy. Also used a facing material on the valve itself.  I can get
> specs if you want.

Stellite valves are also available for Porsches and maybe some other cars.

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 13:51:09 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: GM Coolant sensor
Cc: dibble@hagar.ph.utexas.edu
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>
>     That is what they are for, but wouldn,t it be great to get rid of an 
>     op-amp.  Hence try and reduce the amount of circuitry required.  
>     Something like a simple LCD temp read out (very useful for diff, 
>     gearbox and water in race cars), temp sensor, a small resistor divider 
>     and a panel meter, and its guarranteed to be very reliable, once you 
>     start throwing in op-amps, etc.  you need very steady power supply 
>     rails to avoid inaccurate readings.  So is there a positive temp 
>     coefficient sensor around ? (could always make one if I have to, but 
>     its easier if there's a car that's already using one).
>     
>     
>     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au 
>
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
>Subject: Re: GM Coolant sensor
>Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
>Date:    9/18/96 11:19 PM
>
>
>>     Does anyone know if there's a positive curve temp sensor around, ie. 
>>     increasing voltage for increasing temp.  Would make life a lot easier 
>>     for analogue circuitry.
>>     
>>     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au
>     
>I thought that's what inverting amps were for. 
>Tom

Dan,

The first monolothic op-amp was the uA-709.  It was not frequency
compensated, required offset adjustments, could latch up and was sensitive
to its power supply.  That was about 1967 or so.  Only a few years later
the uA-741 (yes, the venerable 741) came out.  It solved all of those
problems.  The ability of an op-amp to not be affected by its power
supply is called (guess what?) Supply Voltage Rejection Ratio.  For the
741 (remember, it's an OLD op-amp, the new ones are much better) the
SVRR is 77 dB minimum to over 96 dB.  That means that a change of one volt
in the supply will create a change of no more than 1/(10^(77/20)) <= 140
micro-volts.  If your sensor has a range of 0 to 5 volts, then this
represents an error of .00014/5 = .0028%.  A digital meter typically
is only .5% accurate.  An analog meter only 5%.

If you use any electronics, you're gonna have to 'scale' voltages.
If your sensor output is fairly lo-Z an' your meter is hi-Z, you
can maybe use a resistor voltage divider (assuming you're going to
a lower voltage).  If your meter requires any offset voltage (like
maybe your sensor has an output from 1 to 6 volts and your meter works
on 0 to 5 volts) you'll need a transistor circuit or op-amp.  In other
words, you live in an analog world (hell, digital circuits are just
saturated analog amplifiers!!) and you're gonna have to deal wid' it.

If you are inexperienced with operational amplifiers, go to Radio Shack
and buy their $3 book on op-amps.  Actually, they have a several good
beginning books that are incredibly inexpensive.  There is a series by
Forrest Mimms that I recommend highly.  The little book I mentioned
that costs about $3.00 can be bought with a small kit of parts for
probably $10.00 so that one can build some simple circuits.  All
you'd need is a couple of 9-volt transistor batteries and a voltmeter.
Once again, Radio Shack sells a pocket DVM for about $25.

[Note: I do not recommend the purchase of parts from Radio Shack --
in fact long experience dictates strongly against it.  I recommend the
above books to my students, however.  The DVM mentioned is not very
good.  Better to buy one for about $10 more from some place that
carries quality products -- like maybe Digi-Key, Mouser, Newark, etc.]

Now, to answer your real question re: pos. coeff. temp. sensors.  Thermistors
are neg. coeff. but T.I. used to make a product called a 'sensistor' that
was pos. coeff.  (last time I saw one was probably 1972).  Don't have
any idea if they still make it.  There is a company called Omega that
carries all kinds of stuff like that (and produce very good catalogs
and reference sources).  Their number is 800-826-6342.  (But, you'll
still probably have to condition the output -- i.e. use an op-amp!)

Tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 14:07:31 1996
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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: about teflon-oil
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>HELLO TO ALL
>
>Have anyone take, purchase, drink etc. etc. any type of oil with teflon??
>
>Do you know the oil type with " CENTRILIUM " ???
>
>Thanks for "those helpers" .
>

check:

ftp://ftp.best.com/pub.c/chucko/fordnatics/motor-oil

Tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 14:24:51 1996
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To: diy_efi
cc: gcouger@ceatlabs.okstate.edu
Subject: Re: Microcontroller shielding questions 
In-reply-to: Your message of "Tue, 17 Sep 1996 22:12:20 PDT."
             <199609180512.WAA16128@freya.van.hookup.net> 
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 09:02:40 -0500
From: Gordon Couger <gcouger@ceatlabs.okstate.edu>
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>At 09:14 AM 9/17/96 PDT, Wade Barnes wrote:
>
>>I am designing a small (2"x2") controller board for use in the automotive
>>and robotics industries.  The board is based on the MC68HC16Z1
>>microcontroller.  Since the engine compartment of a car is filled with EMI
>>we are attempting to make the board as resistant as possible to the effects
>>of the EMI.
>
Using sheilded twisted pairs for your incoming wires will help. Ground the
sheild at the computer and leave the other end ungrounded. Have a very good
ground.

>Sorry, I can't quantify any of the EMI/RFI effects that you mentioned, I'd
>be surprised if anyone could.  Mebbe stick the car in a Faraday cage and see
>what you get.  
>
Faraday cages are hard to come by. If you can find a large field with no power
lines you can do about as well as in a cage. At least one major farm equipment
maker use this method.

Good luck
Gordon

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 15:20:19 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'Stephen Lamb'"
	 <lambs@HOTBLK.dsto.defence.gov.au>
Cc: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
Subject: RE: Jake Brakes & dynos
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 13:12:59 +-200
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Seconded... I want to talk Silicon and WD-40 not politics:

Mark   

Also not a flame... just a prod to try and get back to silicon and WD ;-)



----------
From:  Stephen Lamb[SMTP:lambs@HOTBLK.dsto.defence.gov.au]
Sent:  Thursday, September 19, 1996 2:29 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Cc:  Robert J. Harris
Subject:  Re: Jake Brakes & dynos

>All that Clinton wants is every thing Hitler had -
>      Remember the Reichstag!!!


OK,OK.........enough already.  The first few times was a vague
annoyance.....but now I just delete the messages that start with this 'tag'
without bothering with the rest of the message.

Apparently it has something more to do with American politics than the
actual Reichstag incident (which I DO know a little about).  Whatever....it
has little to do with this list, please take it to alt.politics (or
something like that).

This is NOT a flame - and a flame war will not be entered into - just a cry
that enough is enough.

Cheers

Stephen Lamb
Dept. of Defence DSTO, AMRL
506 Lorimer Street
Fishermans Bend  VIC  3207 Australia
Tel: +61 3 9626 7525
Fax: +61 3 9626 7089

IZCC #180





From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 15:20:22 1996
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Message-Id: <199609191457.KAA00212@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
To: diy_efi
cc: gcouger@ceatlabs.okstate.edu
Subject: Re: Jake Brakes & dynos 
In-reply-to: Your message of "Wed, 18 Sep 1996 11:59:10 CDT."
             <rorem-9608181659.AA00029830@cherokee.eecs.uic.edu> 
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 09:57:10 -0500
From: Gordon Couger <gcouger@ceatlabs.okstate.edu>
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Reply-To: diy_efi

>>From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
>>>They fit in the driveline - after the transmission - sort of like an
>>>overdirve transmission kit.  Will post the cost and dimensions
>>>when I get them.  Sorry I missed the opening parts of the
>>dyno thread.

Does the drive shaft twist enough to measure? If it does a strain gauge
on the shaft that detemined the frequency of an oscilor(sp) then modulate
a very small transmiter with the output from the oscilator. Recive it on the 
other end and then use the pulse accumulator on a 68HC11 to count the pulses
over a period and you should be able to convert that to torque. 

It would vary on every vehicle it would probably only be good for 
compairsons and would be difficult to calibrate and keep in calibration.

Gordon


Gordon Couger Senior Software Specialist
Biosystems & Agricultural Engineering Dept.  Oklahoma State Univ.
114 Ag Hall Stillwater, OK 74075
gcouger@master.ceat.okstate.edu

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 15:33:22 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <DIY_EFI>,
        "'fontana pasquale'"
	 <pfontana@netline.totobit.it>
Subject: RE: about teflon-oil
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 17:05:01 +-200
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Yes... It was bloody useless in our application, because teflon is a =
solid ground PTFE and while slippery, and good under pressure, it is =
also kinda gritty on the smallest scale.

(also stopped the ball bearings on my track ball dead... had to put new =
bearings in... harder job than changing hub bearings)

Mark


----------
From:  fontana pasquale[SMTP:pfontana@netline.totobit.it]
Sent:  Thursday, September 19, 1996 12:50 PM
To:  DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  about teflon-oil

HELLO TO ALL

Have anyone take, purchase, drink etc. etc. any type of oil with =
teflon??

Do you know the oil type with " CENTRILIUM " ???

Thanks for "those helpers" .



PASQUALE           =20
                 ***
                **                \||/
              *    *<nigth&day>   ('')=20


PASQUALE=20
----------- address phone & mailing---------------------------------
 FONTANA Ing. Pasquale=20

         Via Stazione 24=20

         89055  GALLICO MAR. (REGGIO CAL.)

         ITALY

E-MAIL: pfontana@netline.totobit.it

phone:  0039 965 863404

fax  :  0039 965 863244=20

-------------------------------------------




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 15:33:24 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'Dirk Wright'"
	 <wright@uspto.gov>
Subject: Hardened Valve Seats, but why?
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 17:08:24 +-200
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Grud!... wasn't life easy with lead???

----------
From:  Dirk Wright[SMTP:wright@uspto.gov]
Sent:  Thursday, September 19, 1996 10:03 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Re: Hardened Valve Seats

On Thu, 19 Sep 1996, Stephen Lamb wrote:

> >Wie Gehts?  Just wanted to let you know I hadn't forgotten about the
> >seat
> >material.  Checked the SAE books we have--specs for valves, but not
> >seats.  Checked the General Motors Materials books, but no mention I
> 
> One material used for 'hardened' valve seats is Stellite, which is a Cobalt
> based alloy. Also used a facing material on the valve itself.  I can get
> specs if you want.

Stellite valves are also available for Porsches and maybe some other cars.

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 16:25:29 1996
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From: "Robert J. Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Kiss
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 22:43:42 -0700
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Once upon a time, refrigerators ran on what I believe is 
called the ammonia cycle.  RV and some industrial fridges 
still do.  RV's  burn Propane to  generate the heat 
energy to cool the pop and make ice.

The one area every one agrees that helps power, mileage 
and efficiency is intercooling the discharge air of a turbo.  
Why not look at this type of pumpless, compressor less 
form of refrigeration as a possible candidate for active 
charge cooling while recovering some excess heat energy.

Not being a refrigeration engineer, I can't say what the 
numbers will run out to, but it offers some initial hope of
doing something practical with the excess heat.  Any form
of charge cooling is going to require control and at least 
feedforward.  The perfect candidate for that is the EFI 
controller. 

Just some food for thought - for whatever its worth.  I'm out
of the feedback loop - just want to see if anyone else sees
some possibility.



This signature line censored because it
offended a government employee
  
Robert Harris <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>


----------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 17:08:33 1996
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 12:46:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: John Napoli <jgn@li.net>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Math Question
In-Reply-To: <323D4B2D.66C4@bekes.hungary.net>
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Unless some real efficient heat/electric device was available, and used to
drive the car, not much of a gain will be seen.  Heck, if such an
efficient direct heat/electric capability existed, we could replace our
engines with oil burners (like the one o\in your basement)!

Power plants have 2 advantages.  THey don't move.  So weight of the extra
equipment isn't a problem.  And they are amortized over something like
thirty-five years.  Helps with the costs.  Now while some of us might have
overweight project cars that never move and just eat dollars, that is not
the point!  :)

So I expect that this issue will remain pretty much a sore point unless
somehow we figure out how to use the waste heat to perform mechanical
work.  Your car just does not use enough electrical power to gain much by
eliminating the alternator, although of course it is a step in the right
direction.

John


On Mon, 16 Sep 1996, hoss karoly wrote:

> John Napoli wrote:
> > 
> > This issue of thermodynamic efficiency is one of my hot points (ouch).
> > 
> > Fossil fuel plants use every trick in the book to recapture all the
> > 'waste' BTUs that they can.  If you neglect the power used to run their
> > pollution devices (a parasitic loss), their overall efficiency is pretty
> > good - I recall numbers in the mid-40s.
> > 
> > Our gasoline engines in our cars do nothing to utilize the energy in the
> > waste heat.  Arre they 10%? 20% efficient overall?  I doubt 20% but lets
> > go with that number.
> I had the same feeeling before .
> in fact I plan to build some peltier-cells on my engine
> to charge my battery 
> who knows ? maybe I can eliminate the generator and save power
> 
> BTW does anybody knows how the H-O cells work ? is it possible to build
> one
> wich work with gasoline and air to produce electricity ?
> the heat-cells work at a 70-80% eff. range
> 
> bye
> charley
> 
> 
> 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 19:14:25 1996
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>From:  John Napoli[SMTP:jgn@li.net]
>Sent:  Tuesday, September 17, 1996 11:15 PM
>To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject:  Re: Math Question
>
>
> If we were able to utilize a third of the waste heat, wouldn't that make a
> big difference?  Instead of raising CAFE with smaller and lighter cars, we
> would raise it by being more efficient.  I doubt that all the EFI software
> in the world will make much more MPG than we see right now.  I would like
> to see something intelligent about using the waste heat.


	In a relatively old textbook that I have on heat engines (40's or 50's
era) there's a discussion of the idea of following an IC with a gas-turbine.
 The context wasn't like that of a turbocharger, but rather with the turbine
shaft connected though a mechanical drive to the driveshaft, hence combining
the output of the two for useful work.

	FWIW,

	Jim

--
Jim Butler (butler@comm.mot.com)

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 20:24:03 1996
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From: neilaura@aceweb.net
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 13:06:00 -0500 
Message-ID: <TCPSMTP.16.9.19.13.6.0.2577044706.367811@aceweb.net>
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DI>Yes, and the key phrase is 'to an extent'.  There is still a lot of waste
DI>heat out the tail pipe and in the radiator and etc.  A turbo is a step in
DI>the right direction but there are still a lot of BTUs being 'wasted'.

DI>John

DI>On Wed, 18 Sep 1996, Mark Pitts wrote:

DI>> Surly that is effectively what a turbo does to an extent, esp. in diesels
DI>>
DI>> Mark
DI>>
DI>> ----------
DI>> From:  John Napoli[SMTP:jgn@li.net]
DI>> Sent:  Tuesday, September 17, 1996 11:15 PM
DI>> To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
DI>> Subject:  Re: Math Question
DI>>
DI>> This issue of thermodynamic efficiency is one of my hot points (ouch).
DI>>
DI>> Fossil fuel plants use every trick in the book to recapture all the
DI>> 'waste' BTUs that they can.  If you neglect the power used to run their
DI>> pollution devices (a parasitic loss), their overall efficiency is pretty
DI>> good - I recall numbers in the mid-40s.
DI>>
DI>> Our gasoline engines in our cars do nothing to utilize the energy in the
DI>> waste heat.  Arre they 10%? 20% efficient overall?  I doubt 20% but lets
DI>> go with that number.
DI>>
DI>> If we were able to utilize a third of the waste heat, wouldn't that make a
DI>> big difference?  Instead of raising CAFE with smaller and lighter cars, we
DI>> would raise it by being more efficient.  I doubt that all the EFI software
DI>> in the world will make much more MPG than we see right now.  I would like
DI>> to see something intelligent about using the waste heat.
DI>>
DI>> John
DI>>
DI>>
DI>> I once read an article (I forget where) regarding a company that was using
superheated steam, made by wrapping copper pipe around the header, to drive a
small turbine, which was used to run the air conditioning and the alternator.
This obviously relieved the engine of these power sucking accessories, and
indirectly raised the efficiency. I don't know if any further research was done,
but it seemed like a practical idea.

Neil Powell  Neilaura@aceweb.net
DI>>
DI>>


------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sent from AceWeb. Telnet to bbs.aceweb.net. BBS#(818) 891-0397
Home of the 500 Disc CD-Rom Changer.
Call AceWeb Network at (800)600-3285  >>> ISV Software Distributor <<<
Call Agama Computer at (800)745-2231  >>> Computer Parts and Systems <<<
Check out our web site at http://www.aceweb.net for more info!
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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 20:24:05 1996
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From: neilaura@aceweb.net
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 13:06:06 -0500 
Message-ID: <TCPSMTP.16.9.19.13.6.6.2577044706.367812@aceweb.net>
Subject: Re: Hardened Valve Seats
To: diy_efi
Sender: owner-diy_efi
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: diy_efi

DI>On Thu, 19 Sep 1996, Stephen Lamb wrote:

DI>> >Wie Gehts?  Just wanted to let you know I hadn't forgotten about the
DI>> >seat
DI>> >material.  Checked the SAE books we have--specs for valves, but not
DI>> >seats.  Checked the General Motors Materials books, but no mention I
DI>>
DI>> One material used for 'hardened' valve seats is Stellite, which is a Cobal
DI>> based alloy. Also used a facing material on the valve itself.  I can get
DI>> specs if you want.

DI>Stellite valves are also available for Porsches and maybe some other cars.

DI>****************************************************************************
DI>Dirk Wright
   wright@uspto.gov
DI>"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
DI>"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
DI>****************************************************************************


I don't know about America, but in England it is common practise to
build up cam lobes with stellite to reclaim them. The stuff is damn near
indestructable and can be applied easily with a welding torch.

Neil Powell  Neilaura@aceweb.net

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sent from AceWeb. Telnet to bbs.aceweb.net. BBS#(818) 891-0397
Home of the 500 Disc CD-Rom Changer.
Call AceWeb Network at (800)600-3285  >>> ISV Software Distributor <<<
Call Agama Computer at (800)745-2231  >>> Computer Parts and Systems <<<
Check out our web site at http://www.aceweb.net for more info!
------------------------------------------------------------------------ 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 21:27:21 1996
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talltom wrote:
> 
> Bob Harris has mentioned a desire to inject water at a precise point in the
> combustion cycle just for grins to see what happens. I'd think one would
> want to
> preheat the water to little less than the boiling point,
wow it's a nice idea to preheat it
thanks for the idea
btw I'm new to the list (hi!) where can I find some kind of archive ?
and what kind of pump-valve do you use for water-injection ?

about myself (hit-delete if you ... you already done it if you're not
interested )
I'm 25 working usually with micro-controllers like the PIC
I built some automotive-applications before and I'm interested in
pumping some
more power and mileage in my good-old bedford diesel 
the first idea is to make it water injected
any ideas on this one ?
bye
charley



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 22:03:47 1996
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 07:43:53 +0200
From: hoss karoly <timothy@bekes.hungary.net>
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Subject: wasted-heat
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John Napoli wrote:
> 
> Unless some real efficient heat/electric device was available, and used to
> drive the car, not much of a gain will be seen.  Heck, if such an
> efficient direct heat/electric capability existed, we could replace our
> engines with oil burners (like the one o\in your basement)!

the peltier cells are widely used in automotive drink-coolers and they
are really
efficient in a way : they use waste-heat used for nothing
the altRnator uses the engine's power so it can be 100% efficient - it
uses Xtra fuel

> 
> So I expect that this issue will remain pretty much a sore point unless
> somehow we figure out how to use the waste heat to perform mechanical
> work.  Your car just does not use enough electrical power to gain much by
> eliminating the alternator, although of course it is a step in the right
> direction.
> 
well , I'd be more careful about estimating the ele-power-consumption of
my car
only the front lights are a little above 900 watts :)
(it  helps finding the way ;) )
the audio sys eats up some 200-300 W the stand-heating 40-200 W
the seat-heating ? only saab knows ( I found it in a saab 900 )

the H-O catalist cells are used in space applications
maybe someone can build one for diesel-air it'll be light and extremely
efficient
it must be - according to the books but it states noone has found the
right 
catalisator YET
bye
charley
ps how do would you make a pre-heated water injector for a diesel ?


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 22:49:54 1996
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 18:45:11 +0100
To: diy_efi
From: Chris Morriss <crsm@oroboros.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Re: GM Coolant sensor
In-Reply-To: <9608198431.AA843148124@afcperth.aesprodata.com.au>
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In message <9608198431.AA843148124@afcperth.aesprodata.com.au>,
dzorde@aesprodata.com.au writes
>
>     That is what they are for, but wouldn,t it be great to get rid of an 
>     op-amp.  Hence try and reduce the amount of circuitry required.  
>     Something like a simple LCD temp read out (very useful for diff, 
>     gearbox and water in race cars), temp sensor, a small resistor divider 
>     and a panel meter, and its guarranteed to be very reliable, once you 
>     start throwing in op-amps, etc.  you need very steady power supply 
>     rails to avoid inaccurate readings.  So is there a positive temp 
>     coefficient sensor around ? (could always make one if I have to, but 
>     its easier if there's a car that's already using one).
>     
>     
>     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au 
>
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
>Subject: Re: GM Coolant sensor
>Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
>Date:    9/18/96 11:19 PM
>
>
>>     Does anyone know if there's a positive curve temp sensor around, ie. 
>>     increasing voltage for increasing temp.  Would make life a lot easier 
>>     for analogue circuitry.
>>     
>>     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au
>     
>I thought that's what inverting amps were for. 
>Tom
>     
I use a Nat Semi LM50. This is a linear sensor with an output that
increases with increasing temperature.  The TO92 version can be fitted
into an old dismantled water temp sensor if required.  Use heatshrink
sleeving as insulation.  As it is a 3-wire sensor it needs a +ve feed as
well as the ground and output wire.
-- 
Chris Morriss

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 22:56:56 1996
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From: "Woodd, Michael" <wooddm@akcity.govt.nz>
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>There appears to exist a number of sensors to build
>an excellent self tuning EFI, yet the only sensor that
>anyone talks about for ignition timing is a knock
>sensor that just tells me - oops too much -
>self destruct sequence initiated.

I posted similar musings to an unreceptive audience
in efi332 a while back, could have been the house was
empty, but here I go again....

I have thought about this an awful lot, and plan to put
some of my ideas into practice, once I figure out how
to actually build the thing...

The only thing stopping you having a computer tweak the
engine parameters for you is that you have to have
*accurate* *results* from your measuring system.
It seems to me with an accurate performance measure-
ment system, anything is possible, but building an
*accurate* system is a bit of an ask.

Consider a car on an absolutely perfectly flat piece
of concrete, on an absolutely still day, with an
absolutely even ambient air temperature/pressure.  Now
theoretically, you can measure your acceleration and
speed down to a t, factor in total car weight (however you're
going to measure that...), drag coefficient if you like, RPMs...
whatever else you need to get torque and real horsepower.
I dont even know the physics well, but I figure it can be done.
Use some fuzzy logic to try to improve things over
multiple acceleration runs, hey presto, self tuning car.

But of course we all know that the original premise is
absolute B.S., even an aircraft runway would have trouble
delivering.  Bumps on the road will produce lumps in
the acceleration curve if you're measuring wheel speed,
how ill it know when we are climbing slight rises,
how will it know when we are cornering,
how will it account for headwinds...
What about putting this on my bike??!!

Of course there are sensors that could capture information
that could largely negate all of these, and I am keen to
try and implement most of them.  Put in a knock sensor,
and try to use EGO as much as possible, including in
non-steady-state situations, to make sure we are heading
in the right direction, *heaps* of memory to record
multiple instances of the same speed/RPM/TPS for
different spark/fuel parameters, historical EGO info...

My idea is to have this running for a race track environment,
where the car is doing multiple acceleration and speed runs,
repetitively, and I think given a baseline spark/fuel curve, it
could quite quickly approach the perfection asymptote...

I have no idea how complex the software will be to get there,
or what kind of processing grunt will be required.  I am
going to start with a '552!!!  What it is capable of I don't know,
but being of an empirical nature, I hope to find out.

>I truly hope that there are some good ideas out there.
>
 Where yours????? ;-)

Mike Woodd
(wooddm@akcity.govt.nz)
Anybody need a race car driver?  No, really, I'm quite good....

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 22:56:58 1996
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 96 22:03:02 UT
From: "Orin Harding" <NAMGBR@msn.com>
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To: diy_efi
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Todd,
I have the newer Electromotive TEC-II and I suppose you can get a copy of the 
software you need from them at (703) 378-2444.  This may be the old number but 
the operator can give you the new one.  They also have a web page, search for 
Electromotive.  Orin
e-mail address: orin@deltacp.com
Check our WEB site:  www.deltacp.com
Phone/Fax: (910) 854-3232
Mobil Phone: (910) 601-8418

----------
From: 	owner-diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu on behalf of Todd Knighton
Sent: 	Wednesday, September 18, 1996 2:04 PM
To: 	diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Electromotive

Hellppp.
	Got stuck with this car that has an old Electromotive TEC-I with a 23D
eprom and it needs a program called "CAL" to work with it.  Anybody out
there have one or know where to get it.  In the Electromotive Manual it
gives a description of the units/eproms/calibration software and next to
this one it says (obsolete),  oh boy, more fun!
	If anyone has worked with this system maybe you could answer this
question.  We got the car with no calibration software, and according to
the manual there's no way to upload the parameters from the unit to the
PC, or is there?  It looks like all you can do is download from the PC
to the Electromotive TEC unit so do we have to start all over again,
even though we have a calibration that's mildly close to where it should
be?
	Any help would be appreciated! <:(

Todd Knighton
Protomotive Engineering


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 23:31:06 1996
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From: "Jeffrey Engel" <jengel@fastlane.net>
To: diy_efi
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 18:02:25 +600
Subject: Re: Haltech E6 EFI
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Jeremy,

I don't run an E6, but I'm a short drive from Norwood in Dallas, TX 
(USA).  From what I gather, they ARE or they are distributors for 
Haltech in the US of A.  I'd be willing to help out if I can.

BTW, did you know that the Haltech was designed in OZ (the E6 at 
least)?  Maybe you could get help close by.  The 'tuning' interface 
is patented in OZ, that means you should be able to trace someone 
through the patent office.

je

> From:          Jeremy Pronk <jpronk@st.nepean.uws.edu.au>
> 
<deleted>
>
> Any help is greatly appreciated! I would like to hear from anyone who 
> runs Haltech E6 in there car as well. (Forgive my ignorance, but I have 
> only ever played with carbies up until now, even though I have been on 
> this list for a while, I dont seem to have picked up to much)...
> 
> Jeremy, Sydney AUSTRALIA
> '69 510 4dr (for sale!)
> '83 AlfaSud Ti (Haltech E6 EFI)

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 23:55:20 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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On Thu, 19 Sep 1996 neilaura@aceweb.net wrote:
> 
> 
> I don't know about America, but in England it is common practise to
> build up cam lobes with stellite to reclaim them. The stuff is damn near
> indestructable and can be applied easily with a welding torch.
> 

I think it's uncommon on this side of the pond. Stelite still has enough
of an aura of voodoo magic to be a good marketing tool for the fat wallet
set. 

The main benifit of the material is that it doens't get soft at high 
temperatures, unlike just about every other steel alloy.

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 19 23:57:18 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
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On Tue, 17 Sep 1996, hoss karoly wrote:
> I built some automotive-applications before and I'm interested in
> pumping some
> more power and mileage in my good-old bedford diesel 
> the first idea is to make it water injected
> any ideas on this one ?

I would be very careful using water injection on a diesel because the 
extremely high compression ratios could easily lead to hydro lock, thus 
bendin your connecting rods, or worse. Also, I heard somewhere that 
diesels actually *liked* lots of heat, so the cooling effect of water 
injection may be a disadvantage.

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 00:12:23 1996
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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: wasted-heat
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        [snip ]

>the peltier cells are widely used in automotive drink-coolers and they
>are really

saw an article once where someone attached a modified grill to the back
of the car and used the heat from the exhaust to cook a meal whilst
driving.

>well , I'd be more careful about estimating the ele-power-consumption of
>my car
>only the front lights are a little above 900 watts :)
>(it  helps finding the way ;) )
>the audio sys eats up some 200-300 W the stand-heating 40-200 W
>the seat-heating ? only saab knows ( I found it in a saab 900 )

dunno where those figgers come from.  P=E * I.  A headlight bulb
is typically 50 watts.  I = P/E, therefore about 4 amps per headlight.
About 2 amps for clearance / stop / turn lamps (each), so for two
headlights and 2 clearance / turn lights, maybe 150 watts or about 12 amps.

The power consumed by audio systems is minimal: maybe 200 mA for
a tape drive motor.  Most power is for anything that lights up -- like
incandescent lamps or LED's.  Now, when you're making volume, that's
a different bag o' worms.  But 300 watts?  What I was trying to say
in the first part is, most of the wattage (like the 300 watts) will
be used in the power amp -- and most of it (class B amps are about
75% efficient) will go into the speakers.  You listen to that long
and you'll have to correspond by writing or sign language 'cause you
won't be able to hear.  Besides, never seen an OEM system that made
300 watts -- didn't say there weren't any.  Most systems make maybe
10 or 20 watts.

What I've observed for electrical power draws:
        headlamps       50 watts        ~ 4 A
        exterior lamps   10-20 watts    ~ 2 A
        interior lamps   10 watts       ~ 1 A
        dash lamps       2 watts        ~ 200 mA.
        ignition coil   50 watts        ~ 4 A (intermittent)
        radio           2 - xx watts    ~ .25 amps (no volume)
        tape deck motor 2 watts         ~ .2 A
        starter        1800 - 3000 watts ~ 150 - 250 A
        fuel pump       24 - 120 watts  ~ 2 - 10 amps
        blower motor    ( dunno )
        computer        ( dunno )

Tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 00:30:03 1996
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Subject: Re[4]: GM Coolant sensor
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     Thanks, nice reply, I would go digital if I had the time, but I just 
     want something quick and super reliable (the more parts, the lower the 
     MTBF).  Anyway I'll just mount a VDO temp sensor in a larger plug 
     (isolated with the extra resistor to the earth, to turn it into a PTC 
     sensor).  One of these mounted in each area to be measured, a selector 
     switch to select either sensor and a panel meter to display the 
     selected sensor.  Easy, quick, cheap and very reliable.  Thanks for 
     the input everybody, its good to see some of the ideas floating 
     around.
     
     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au 
     
     <snip>
     
Now, to answer your real question re: pos. coeff. temp. sensors.  Thermistors 
are neg. coeff. but T.I. used to make a product called a 'sensistor' that
was pos. coeff.  (last time I saw one was probably 1972).  Don't have 
any idea if they still make it.  There is a company called Omega that 
carries all kinds of stuff like that (and produce very good catalogs 
and reference sources).  Their number is 800-826-6342.  (But, you'll 
still probably have to condition the output -- i.e. use an op-amp!)
     
Tom
     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 01:29:50 1996
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From: Thor Johnson <johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu>
To: DIY EFI Maillist <diy_efi>
Subject: Diesel Injectors.... How do they work?
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Not quite EFI, but while looking for Injectors, I met a good friend at 
NOPI, and he showed me alot of injectors... I noticed that the Diesel ones
had Fuel in, and two little ports on the sides.  How do these injectors 
know when to fire?

                Thor Johnson
       johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu
   http://falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu/~johnsont
                                                    
         Have you seen the WarpMap lately?                    
 http://falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu/~johnsont/warpmap  



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 01:54:34 1996
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To: diy_efi
cc: gcouger@ceatlabs.okstate.edu
Subject: Re: Hardened Valve Seats 
In-reply-to: Your message of "Thu, 19 Sep 1996 19:40:25 EDT."
             <Pine.SUN.3.91.960919193738.25095F-100000@pioneer.uspto.gov> 
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 20:43:47 -0500
From: Gordon Couger <gcouger@ceatlabs.okstate.edu>
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>On Thu, 19 Sep 1996 neilaura@aceweb.net wrote:
>
>I think it's uncommon on this side of the pond. Stelite still has enough
>of an aura of voodoo magic to be a good marketing tool for the fat wallet
>set. 
>
I think they make stelite valves for about every thing. We use them alot
for valves in propane conversions. The standard drill was to run a new
pickup 5,000 miles to break it in, make the propane conversion, run it
until needed a valve job and put in stelite valves and seats. At least on
the exaust valve.

Gordon

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 01:54:35 1996
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re[2]: wasted-heat
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     I'm running 90/130W (low/high beam) in my headlights, a set of 150W 
     sealed beam for high beam and a set of 150W spotties.  Comes to 180W 
     at low beam (around town), switch on the high beam and you have 740W 
     (due to the purposely designed wiring the low beam stays on when the 
     high beam is switched on), then switch on the spotties (1040W) and 
     boy, you'll be able to spot a roo 20Km up the road before you hit it.  
     It does tend to flatten the battery over long periods though, the 
     alternator drops to about 9.6V @ 6500 rpm when everything is on.
     
     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: wasted-heat
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
Date:    9/20/96 9:40 AM


        [snip ]
     
>the peltier cells are widely used in automotive drink-coolers and they 
>are really
     
saw an article once where someone attached a modified grill to the back 
of the car and used the heat from the exhaust to cook a meal whilst 
driving.
     
>well , I'd be more careful about estimating the ele-power-consumption of 
>my car
>only the front lights are a little above 900 watts :) 
>(it  helps finding the way ;) )
>the audio sys eats up some 200-300 W the stand-heating 40-200 W 
>the seat-heating ? only saab knows ( I found it in a saab 900 )
     
dunno where those figgers come from.  P=E * I.  A headlight bulb
is typically 50 watts.  I = P/E, therefore about 4 amps per headlight. 
About 2 amps for clearance / stop / turn lamps (each), so for two 
headlights and 2 clearance / turn lights, maybe 150 watts or about 12 amps.
     
The power consumed by audio systems is minimal: maybe 200 mA for
a tape drive motor.  Most power is for anything that lights up -- like 
incandescent lamps or LED's.  Now, when you're making volume, that's
a different bag o' worms.  But 300 watts?  What I was trying to say 
in the first part is, most of the wattage (like the 300 watts) will 
be used in the power amp -- and most of it (class B amps are about 
75% efficient) will go into the speakers.  You listen to that long 
and you'll have to correspond by writing or sign language 'cause you 
won't be able to hear.  Besides, never seen an OEM system that made 
300 watts -- didn't say there weren't any.  Most systems make maybe 
10 or 20 watts.
     
What I've observed for electrical power draws:
        headlamps       50 watts        ~ 4 A 
        exterior lamps   10-20 watts    ~ 2 A 
        interior lamps   10 watts       ~ 1 A 
        dash lamps       2 watts        ~ 200 mA.
        ignition coil   50 watts        ~ 4 A (intermittent) 
        radio           2 - xx watts    ~ .25 amps (no volume) 
        tape deck motor 2 watts         ~ .2 A
        starter        1800 - 3000 watts ~ 150 - 250 A 
        fuel pump       24 - 120 watts  ~ 2 - 10 amps 
        blower motor    ( dunno )
        computer        ( dunno )
     
Tom
     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 01:59:27 1996
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 08:42:14 est
To: diy_efi
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>>
>> If we were able to utilize a third of the waste heat, wouldn't that 
>> make a big difference?  Instead of raising CAFE with smaller and
>> lighter cars, we would raise it by being more efficient.  I doubt 
>> that all the EFI software in the world will make much more MPG than 
>> we see right now.  I would like to see something intelligent about 
>> using the waste heat.
>
>
>In a relatively old textbook that I have on heat engines (40's or 
>50's era) there's a discussion of the idea of following an IC with a 
>gas-turbine.
>The context wasn't like that of a turbocharger, but rather with the 
>turbine shaft connected though a mechanical drive to the driveshaft, 
>hence combining the output of the two for useful work.

Curtis-Wright did this on their Turbo-Compund aero engines of the 40's 
and 50's.  It gave more power, better power-weight, but not sure about 
thermal efficiency though.  

Now they use gas turbines made by GE, Pratt&Whittney and RR :) 
	




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 02:15:33 1996
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Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 21:08:26 -0500
From: Doug Rorem <rorem@cherokee.eecs.uic.edu>
Subject: Re: Diesel Injectors.... How do they work?
To: diy_efi
Message-Id: <rorem-9608200208.AA000512688@cherokee.eecs.uic.edu>
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>>
>>Not quite EFI, but while looking for Injectors, I met a good friend at 
>>NOPI, and he showed me alot of injectors... I noticed that the Diesel ones
>>had Fuel in, and two little ports on the sides.  How do these injectors 
>>know when to fire?
>>
>>                Thor Johnson

Thor,

The injection pump ramps up the fuel pressure very high (roughly 2500 psi)
and the injector 'fires' when it's breaking pressure is reached. For VW diesels
there is a moveable pintle in the nozzle that is spring loaded which determines
the 'breaking' pressure. There are shim washers that are used to adjust the
spring force and thus the pressure for firing. When the right pressure is
reached, the pintle nozzle moves up into the injector body and fuel
sprays out. When the pressure drops, the spring shoves the pintle back
into place which cuts off fuel flow, readying the injector for the next
cycle.

The two ports on the side of a VW injector are for excess fuel flow which goes
back to the fuel tank.


--
Doug Rorem
University of Illinois at Chicago         (312)-996-5439  [voice]
EECS Department  RM 1120                  (312)-413-1065  [fax]
851 S. Morgan Street                      (708)-996-2226  [pager]
Chicago, IL 60607-7053                    rorem@uic.edu

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 02:33:31 1996
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To: diy_efi
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Subject: Re: Math Question
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At 12:46 PM 9/19/96 -0400, you wrote:
>Unless some real efficient heat/electric device was available, and used to
>drive the car, not much of a gain will be seen.
>Power plants have 2 advantages.  THey don't move.  So weight of the extra
>equipment isn't a problem.  And they are amortized over something like
>thirty-five years.  Helps with the costs.  Now while some of us might have
>overweight project cars that never move and just eat dollars, that is not
>the point!  :)
>
>So I expect that this issue will remain pretty much a sore point unless
>somehow we figure out how to use the waste heat to perform mechanical
>work.  Your car just does not use enough electrical power to gain much by
>eliminating the alternator, although of course it is a step in the right
>direction.
>
>John

I agree John, but if over 60 percent is waste heat energy out of the
radiator and tail pipe it seems simple enough to catch at least 20% of the
wasted heat. Read the excerpt from my response to talltom's initial request.
The turbine could be substituted for a large vane type air motor couppled to
the engine. I think the materials are available to make it happen.

...snip...Think about this, a low pressure turbine connected between the
rear axle and tranny (to
assist the engine). Hot water from the engine is routed to water jacketed
exhaust manifolds for 'super heating'. This steam is then routed to the
drive shaft turbine. Low pressure steam leaves the turbine and enters the
radiator or back to the engine to be condensed or heated again. And, don't
forget the water purification unit right before the turbine. 

I'm sure there is a simple reason why this will not work, besides cost. I
don't know it. Let's see what the thermodynamic experts say.

GMD

BTW, we use similar unit to generate power with >50% effiency. We
essentially vent the exhaust of a gas turbine generator into conventional
fossile boiler. Some plants have simply decomissioned a burner and stuck the
ass end of the turbine/generator there. The supercritical plant where I work
achieves 9,400 - 10,200 btu/killowatt-hour with just a super critical boiler
and generator.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 03:45:15 1996
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From: "John Faubion" <jfaubion@beaches.net>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #277
Date: Thu, 19 Sep 1996 22:13:09 -0500
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> All kinds of stuff! 84 Datsun z cars had a factory g-meter on board,
although
> limited to .5 g's.(A good hard launch at the strip is at least 3g's.)

You won't see 3g's from any thing driven on the street! My Gas dragster
only pulled 2.6g's and we were running the quarter mile in the 7's! I was
running a 355 inch small block with an 8 inch converter. I released the
trans brake with the tach at 5400 RPM! The ProMod guys are pulling that but
then again you find many of them on the street either!

John Faubion
jfaubion@beaches.net

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 04:48:40 1996
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 14:38:15 +1000
From: David Crocombe <david@abc.GOV.AU>
Message-Id: <199609200438.OAA15260@calvin.trd.abc.gov.au>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Learning Systems
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In my last job I used to service a tape recorder synchroniser
that would learn the performance of each tape recorder so 
that it could control it in the most efficient way.
It would do a few fast forwards, rewinds, stops and measure
the dynamics. Each time it would get a bit better at
controlling the machine so that if for example it wanted to
go to a particular position on the tape it would know how
far before that point it had to go into braking from fast
forward to be able to stop slightly ahead of the required
point and then drop into play mode to find the exact point.
This was very impressive to watch its performance get
noticably better as it learnt the dynamic performance.

It would be interesting to play with this kind of learning
in relation to cars. The vehicles could then be self tuning
depending on environment, load, parameter drift, wear or
whatever. I guess traction control and antilock brakes are
a step in this direction of making cars more intelligent.

David Crocombe,
Sydney,
Australia.


---------------------------------------------------------
                  Reply Seperator
---------------------------------------------------------


>There appears to exist a number of sensors to build
>an excellent self tuning EFI, yet the only sensor that
>anyone talks about for ignition timing is a knock
>sensor that just tells me - oops too much -
>self destruct sequence initiated.

/cut/

The only thing stopping you having a computer tweak the
engine parameters for you is that you have to have
*accurate* *results* from your measuring system.
It seems to me with an accurate performance measure-
ment system, anything is possible, but building an
*accurate* system is a bit of an ask.

/cut/

Use some fuzzy logic to try to improve things over
multiple acceleration runs, hey presto, self tuning car.

/cut/

record multiple instances of the same speed/RPM/TPS for
different spark/fuel parameters, historical EGO info...

My idea is to have this running for a race track environment,
where the car is doing multiple acceleration and speed runs,
repetitively, and I think given a baseline spark/fuel curve, it
could quite quickly approach the perfection asymptote...

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 05:57:24 1996
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 15:41:39 +1000
From: David Crocombe <david@abc.GOV.AU>
Message-Id: <199609200541.PAA16110@calvin.trd.abc.gov.au>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Acceleration of Vehicles
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I was wondering how you measured the acceleration of your dragster.
This is something I was planning to do with an Analog devices 
accelerometer.
Any information would be appreciated.

Thanks,
David Crocombe,
Sydney,
Australia.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 11:56:19 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Learning Systems
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On Fri, 20 Sep 1996, David Crocombe wrote:
> 
> It would be interesting to play with this kind of learning
> in relation to cars. The vehicles could then be self tuning
> depending on environment, load, parameter drift, wear or
> whatever. I guess traction control and antilock brakes are
> a step in this direction of making cars more intelligent.

As an examiner at the patent office, I work in the automatic transmisison 
field, as well as manual transmissions. Adaptive controllers are well 
documented in the prior art, infact the Chrysler minivan was an adaptive 
transmission that adjusts for wear in the frictional members to maintain 
an optimum shift each time. There are others that sense a driving "style" 
and adjust shift timing to meet that style. There are numerous adaptive 
engine control schemes, also, but I don't work in that specific field, 
although all of the automatic transmissions have an engine related 
component. 

If I can be helpful in locating some patents for you, please let me know.

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


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tom cloud wrote:
> 
> What I've observed for electrical power draws:
>         headlamps       50 watts        ~ 4 A
>         exterior lamps   10-20 watts    ~ 2 A
>         interior lamps   10 watts       ~ 1 A
>         dash lamps       2 watts        ~ 200 mA.
>         ignition coil   50 watts        ~ 4 A (intermittent)
>         radio           2 - xx watts    ~ .25 amps (no volume)
>         tape deck motor 2 watts         ~ .2 A
>         starter        1800 - 3000 watts ~ 150 - 250 A
>         fuel pump       24 - 120 watts  ~ 2 - 10 amps
>         blower motor    ( dunno )
>         computer        ( dunno )
> 
> Tom
the 140/100 headlamps draw a little more than 4
and there are 6 spots to lighten up the road
about the audio sys I'm not sure . The amps are true only for the top
load situation and this will be nice but I'm not sure it will ever
reach this because the numbers on this new amp-speaker stuff are
unbelieveably high.
Dan wrote :
>      I'm running 90/130W (low/high beam) in my headlights, a set of 150W 
>      sealed beam for high beam and a set of 150W spotties.  Comes to 180W 
>      at low beam (around town), switch on the high beam and you have 740W 
>      (due to the purposely designed wiring the low beam stays on when the 
>      high beam is switched on), then switch on the spotties (1040W) and 
>      boy, you'll be able to spot a roo 20Km up the road before you hit it.  
>      It does tend to flatten the battery over long periods though, the 
>      alternator drops to about 9.6V @ 6500 rpm when everything is on.
>      
this is the reason I changed alternator to a 105 Amps one
nice to know that there are other blind boys are driving on the world
my car is white by the way

bye
charley


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 11:56:32 1996
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Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 11:26:09 +0200
From: hoss karoly <timothy@bekes.hungary.net>
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Dirk Wright wrote:
>
> I would be very careful using water injection on a diesel because the
> extremely high compression ratios could easily lead to hydro lock, thus
> bendin your connecting rods, or worse. Also, I heard somewhere that
> diesels actually *liked* lots of heat, so the cooling effect of water
> injection may be a disadvantage.
> 
yeah I felt that too , but bedford had an invention a few years ago 
something with exhaust feedback or like this and they stated it'll
lower the combustion chamber temp lower the noise emission
increase mileage and so on 
so I'm a little bit confused
I just changed my thermostat to a warmer one and the difference seems to
be
positive . any ideas are welcome
maybe I could heat the air intake with exhaust-heat ? :)
anyway I posted this to get some opinions from the gurus 
maybe somebody already tried it blown an engine and can tell me to 
limit the water quantity under 1% of the air taken by the engine
bye
charley



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 12:02:47 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Hardened Valve Seats 
In-Reply-To: <199609200146.VAA02128@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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On Thu, 19 Sep 1996, Gordon Couger wrote:
> >
> I think they make stelite valves for about every thing. We use them alot
> for valves in propane conversions. The standard drill was to run a new
> pickup 5,000 miles to break it in, make the propane conversion, run it
> until needed a valve job and put in stelite valves and seats. At least on
> the exaust valve.

Why would running propane require stellite exhaust valves? Is the 
temperature of combustion that much higher than gasoline? 

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 12:52:32 1996
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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: RE: Ignition timing in conjunction with
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>
>>There appears to exist a number of sensors to build
>>an excellent self tuning EFI, 

        [ snip ]

>I have thought about this an awful lot, and plan to put
>some of my ideas into practice, once I figure out how
>to actually build the thing...

I 'spect everybody on this list has thought about this.  I
guess maybe I'm too conservative, but 'sadistics' (i.e. statistics)
says that the closer you gets to perfection, the more effort you
expend to get less -- law of diminishing returns.  I figure a lot
of this has already been solved.  I'd like to not have to repeat
probably tens of thousands of hours of research and engineering time
trying to come up with the same answers.

Here's some of my questions:  why do you have to re-calibrate if you
change your throttle body size, or injector, or whatever else?  I mean,
I know why, but why can't the bloomin' confuser figger that out for me?

Here's my proposed solution:  the EGO is purty good at stoich, right?
And, if you'll read the data, it's really not too bad off stoich, it's
just that the curve gets real steep and is probably not perzactly the
same from one to the next.  So, why can't you sense when you're in
'cruise' (i.e. small load -- probably determined from MAP, RPM and
TPS), find stoich by dynamically changing A/F and remember that?
Shouldn't take long to store a table of these points (and each point
would be 'refined' by averaging everytime the same point was experienced).

Then, rich / lean conditions aren't too far off (EGO-wise).  Probably
the best way to determine lean (if you're going for max MPG) would
be to measure EGT -- probably'd only need to measure one cylinder.
On my motorcycle, I put a washer with a thermocouple silver soldered to
it under one spark plug and was able to see what I thought were useful
operating temp changes.

Now, rich is a real problem for me.  It's when you wanna "GO" !  So,
this is where I thought you'd measure acceleration or torque (strain
gauge on motor mount).  But, Todd says no.  I don't know how he would
do a real time feedback system, but he apparently thinks a knock sensor
is good for this.  Mebbe so.  Seems to me this is more a function of
timing than mixture.  [Now, there's a variable I haven't been considering
-- i.e. timing!!]  All I'm thinking of right now is A/F ratios.  The EGO
does give data either side of stoich -- according to the data stuff
I've seen, its repeatability is influenced mostly by temperature,
but you should be able to use it to get you purty close -- certainly
to the point where 'diminishing returns' means you'll spend more time
screwing with it than driving it.  [I know I can get 743.375
horsepower, but if I could make 740 and spend 6 months and $5,000
less, could I forget about the 3-3/8 ponies?  I dunno.  I'd sorta
like to have 'em all!  But, then ....]

The answer to a lotta this seems to me is that we miss one of the
most important feedback elements:  the driver!!!  See, this is where
I come back to the question:  wadz rong wid doz liddl pots under
de dash?  I know you digital jocks hate the thought of an analog
pot -- so, dammit, put a grey code encoded disk out there (and spend
a couple hunnert extra to prove your point!).  Bottom line:  the
confuser can make lotsa decisions, but *YOU* can help it.  Now,
the prob here is that lotsa of this stuff is reel subjective -- like
you can't really tell when you're making max horsepower (you CAN tell
if it's way off, but you can't peak it 'cause it's probably changing
purty fast).  So, I don't have answers.  Just questions.  Seems like
there's gotta be some way the driver can easily provide some limited
feedback to his 'self-teaching' confuser widout setting up a *&$^%&*
laptop and trying to type on that &*&$^()) thing at 140 mph.

(You guyz gotta understand:  the last time I laid a wrench on my steed
was probably in April.  I work lotsa hours.  Not looking for sympathy,
just saying, I guess, that if I had a lotta time and money I'd probably
go for that last .01 ponies.  Certainly like to think about it.  I'm
pretty good at micro-confusers and software.  I've been around long
enough to not be scared of analog -- in fact, I often see things that'd
be better done in an analog way.  What I don't know about is the fine
points of engine control -- esp. the doo-dads used to sense things
and what each of those variables means.  I have done enough engineering
to recognize that, considering IC engines have occupied lotsa time
and money and there sure is lotsa high level stuff written about it,
this must be a pretty deep subject.  So, you guys that DO know,
jump in here and help us out!)


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 13:57:53 1996
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To: diy_efi
cc: gcouger@ceatlabs.okstate.edu
Subject: Re: Hardened Valve Seats 
In-reply-to: Your message of "Fri, 20 Sep 1996 07:55:16 EDT."
             <Pine.SUN.3.91.960920075411.8503O-100000@pioneer.uspto.gov> 
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 08:50:24 -0500
From: Gordon Couger <gcouger@ceatlabs.okstate.edu>
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>Why would running propane require stellite exhaust valves? Is the 
>temperature of combustion that much higher than gasoline? 
>
>Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
>
It can be very hot if you set for max power. It has to be run rich to keep the
exuast gas temp down. Also there is aboslutly no lubrication of the valves by
the propane.

For some reason it seems to cut the valve and seat worse than gasoline if any
crud gets caught between the valve and the seat.

Gordon

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 14:42:10 1996
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On Tue, 17 Sep 1996, hoss karoly wrote:
> positive . any ideas are welcome
> maybe I could heat the air intake with exhaust-heat ? :)
> anyway I posted this to get some opinions from the gurus 

Maybe add a turbo without an intercooler?

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 14:42:43 1996
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 10:34:04 +0100
From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
Message-Id: <9609201434.AA07322@ivan.gallium.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #277
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> I would be very careful using water injection on a diesel ...

Take a look at the tractor pulling deisel engines. They will use up to 15
bar (225 PSI) of boost, and put a lot of water in to control detonation.
And they make an ungodly amount of power!

On a side note, I notice that a number of the water injection posts over the
last week or so seem to imply that water injection can get more power out of
a normally aspirated engine. I don't think that is true. Water injection can
be used to offset detonation at high power levels, but the water itself will
not add any power. The power is added by allowing higher manifold pressures
(either WOT or boost) before the engine explodes. The water itself adds no
power (regardless of state changes to steam etc.)

An engine with lower compression, better combustion chanmber design, aluminum
heads, or ceramic coatings, can all do the same job of offsetting detonation.
And off of those techniques are simpler (hence more reliable) than water
injection.

Mike
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 15:51:30 1996
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 08:40:51 +0000
From: Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>
Organization: Protomotive Engineering
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> 
> Now, rich is a real problem for me.  It's when you wanna "GO" !  So,
> this is where I thought you'd measure acceleration or torque (strain
> gauge on motor mount).  But, Todd says no.  

	An interesting experience that may prove a point.
	A car we set up and dyno'd by the power method had some pretty wierd
cams on 8.0/1 compression ratio, and turbo'd.  the thing loved fuel to
make power.  Peak power was found at about 8 or 9/1 air fuel.  put it on
the road and it was extremely sluggish.  Due to the air/fuel. 
Recalibrated the thing to the correct air fuels for the appropriate
boost/compression ratio/cams and it all of a sudden ran great.  
	figure this one out.  It made better power with more fuel, but didn't
accelerate as well.  I've seen this one a few times.
	In this case the torque measurement in car (namely seat of the pants)
worked better than the dyno.
	You can take this one either way, but I still feel that there is a
given set of numbers for each combo for air/fuel ratio's that works
best.  Don't work so hard to find them, just program them in, then let
your EGO find them.

> I don't know how he would do a real time feedback system, but he apparently 
> thinks a knock sensor is good for this.

	Again, the knock sensor is good for us in our application where the
knock is so close to peak power.  Especially when we see 18 - 21/1
effective compression ratio's on boost, on pump fuels (92-93 octane),
lets talk twiddle fingers here.
	In other situations, as I mentioned earlier, we've seen peak power and
the knock limit be 20 degrees apart.  It's typically on low compression
ratio or really bad combustion chamber designs, but there's a lot of
those out there.

>  Mebbe so.  Seems to me this is more a function of
> timing than mixture.  [Now, there's a variable I haven't been considering
> -- i.e. timing!!]

	Knock sensors are used for timing only.  The only car I've seen that
does anything else with it is SAAB, they decrease boost and enrichen the
mixture upon knock as well as work with timing later.  but the try to
leave the timing up as far as possibly under the other conditions.


>  All I'm thinking of right now is A/F ratios.
>  So, you guys that DO know, jump in here and help us out!)

	Try 14.7 - 15 or even up into the 16's if your engine can handle it, it
depends on combustion chambers and flame propogation.  But at light
throttle run as lean as possible with no misfire.
	Go to 12.8 to 13.3 (pump fuel numbers) for max power and torque
normally aspirated.
	Boosted, lower the air fuel proportionately.  We air cooleds have to
run down in the 11.4-11.6/1 range at 20 psi with very good intercooling
to maintain peak power and reliability.  We get slightly better power at
about 11.8 - 12/1 but the combustion chambers get too hot.  Water
cooled's would probably be happy at 11.8-12.0/1.

Todd Knighton
Protomotive Engineering

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 16:08:44 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Hardened Valve Seats 
In-Reply-To: <199609201348.JAA03717@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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On Fri, 20 Sep 1996, Gordon Couger wrote:
> >
> It can be very hot if you set for max power. It has to be run rich to keep the
> exuast gas temp down. Also there is aboslutly no lubrication of the valves by
> the propane.

Looks like a good application for water injection. You can run it leaner 
to get max. power, and keep it cool with the water. 


****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #277
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        [ snip ]

>On a side note, I notice that a number of the water injection posts over the
>last week or so seem to imply that water injection can get more power out of
>a normally aspirated engine. I don't think that is true. 

I know on my motorcycle(s) -- they always ran noticeably better
when the humididity was hi.

Tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 17:24:24 1996
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From: "Robert Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #277
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 10:13:53 -0700
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Diesel engines work by compressing air past the ignition temp 
of the fuel, then injecting the fuel near top dead center and 
getting autoignition.Since it runs extremely lean, lots of excess
oxygen is present - hide that fact away.

Prior to the intake  valve closing, the more air that you can 
shove into the cylinder, the better.  Cooler denser air makes 
more power because more oxygen is available.After closing the 
intake valve,more heat is icing on the cake - because the physics
of compression will generate the heat to autoignite the fuel - 
provided there is no excessive heat LOSS to the cooling jacket 
(like trying to start at 40 below)

Simple turbos work fine, because even tho the air is hotter (minor 
bad thing) more oxygen is available, thus more fuel can be 
injected and more power.  Intercoolers (technically after coolers - 
but I'm not wearing asbestos underware this week) make more 
power - but only if you are pushing the oxygen limits by fuel such 
as in tractor pulling engines.  

Dirty little diesel secret.  Propane.  Since a diesel runs with an 
excess of oxygen, with the right fuel, you can make more power.  
Lots more power - like 25% more without busting a wrench. 
(Check BI FUEL references on the internet). 

You merely meter propane to the intake air of a diesel engine in 
proportion to the EXTRA power you would like to make - like a 
throttle plate NOS system, without the NOS.  Since the auto
inanition temp of propane is ridiculously high, it won't ignite
until you introduce it to the fire from the injected fuel.  Since it
requires a relatively rich mixture to sustain combustion ( 
compared to gasoline) a lean mixture is not prone to backfiring.

You now are merely using the excess oxygen you have already
paid the energy loss's to pump and convert to piston pressure,
and so additional fuel adds more output than might be initially
expected. Plus, the extra heat and violence in combustion helps
better combust the liquid fuel drawing even more power out ot the
existing fuel.  Works fine - thousands of RV's, light utility trucks and
tractor pulling engines have been doing it for years.  Bolt on, 
instant no muss no fuss no brainer extra power.



-----     Cut here - personal comment follows -----
This signature line censored because it
offended a government employee
  
Robert Harris <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>


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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 17:32:58 1996
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From: "Robert Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Stelite Valves and Propane
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 10:27:00 -0700
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Propane burns at about the same temp as gasoline.  See
on line exhaustive gasoline faq available at many sites.  It
also has about the same energy per pound, just less pounds
per gallon.  Also, depending on who you believe, octane of
112 or higher.  Costs less per gallon, by it for my RV at
a dollar a gallon including tax.  What's the price of premium
plus 104 octane boost?   Just a thought.

Why stelite on conversions.  No lubricating lead was a 
minor concern.  Propane conversions typically are in heavy
duty applications running at near full power for extended 
periods of time, thus are at much higher than normal temps

Ford on its FT series gasoline truck engines (50's thru 70's)
had both intake and exhaust stelite inserts for the load temp
wear problem.

-----     Cut here - personal comment follows -----
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Robert Harris <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>


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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 19:17:00 1996
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Subject: Re: Fuel Air Diesel engine induction
To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 20:53:05 +0200 (sat)
From: Kalle Pihlajasaari <kalle@device.data.co.za>
In-Reply-To: <1368907941-5618052@uia.net> from "Robert Harris" at Sep 20, 96 10:13:53 am
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Hi All,

> Dirty little diesel secret.  Propane.  Since a diesel runs with an 
> excess of oxygen, with the right fuel, you can make more power.  
> Lots more power - like 25% more without busting a wrench. 
> (Check BI FUEL references on the internet). 
> 
> You merely meter propane to the intake air of a diesel engine in 
> proportion to the EXTRA power you would like to make - like a 
> throttle plate NOS system, without the NOS.  Since the auto
> inanition temp of propane is ridiculously high, it won't ignite
> until you introduce it to the fire from the injected fuel.  Since it
> requires a relatively rich mixture to sustain combustion ( 
> compared to gasoline) a lean mixture is not prone to backfiring.

I know of small diesels (VW Golf/Rabbit) that would when in a
real worn state actually run on engine oil that was breathed
into the air filter gallery from the crank case due to worn
rings and even after the EFI cutoff solenoid was off and no
more injection took place the engine would keep going without
any governing effect either (lots of power) and the only way to
kill the engine was to stall it in high gear with all the brakes.

A real supprise for a little old lady driver I'm sure :-)

Cheers
-- 
Kalle Pihlajasaari     kalle@data.co.za
Interface Products     Box 15775, Doornfontein, 2028, South Africa
+27 (11) 402-7750      Fax: +27 (11) 402-7751

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 20:28:46 1996
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  <<<   This signature line censored because it
  offended a government employee
  
  Robert Harris <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com> 
  >>>
  
  And now the originator is offended, and on and on- so the wisdom of following 
  basic net etiquette should be quite clear by now!
  
  Todd  Todd_King@ccm.co.intel.com
  
  

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 20:37:13 1996
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>------------------------------
>
>From: David Crocombe <david@abc.GOV.AU>
>Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 15:41:39 +1000
>Subject: Acceleration of Vehicles
>
>I was wondering how you measured the acceleration of your dragster.
>This is something I was planning to do with an Analog devices 
>accelerometer.
>Any information would be appreciated.

The reason I used the 3 number is that my drag modeling program says
that my rig would develop about 2.7-2.8 g's just off the line. I'm running
a blown big block, and do drive it on the street.

  I think we should look at what we can do more than what it's possible 
functions are when we're done, with a maximum of flexibility built in if
possible. 
Clinton doesn't want anything Hitler didn't have.

"a society that will trade a little freedom for a little order 
deserves neither"


                                                       Thomas Jefferson

Clinton doesn't want anything Hitler didn't have.

Harry Browne for president 96!


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 20 23:34:35 1996
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tom cloud wrote:
> 
>         [ snip ]
> 
> >On a side note, I notice that a number of the water injection posts over the
> >last week or so seem to imply that water injection can get more power out of
> >a normally aspirated engine. I don't think that is true.
> 
> I know on my motorcycle(s) -- they always ran noticeably better
> when the humididity was hi.
> 
this is possible - actually I think it's true - but what about the magic
numbers
cubic inch or cm of water / liter of engine at what rpm and should I add
more or
less when increasing the rpm ?
does anybody know something about this ?
bye
charley



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep 21 01:43:53 1996
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From: John Napoli <jgn@li.net>
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Subject: RE: Math Question
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You have just described the evolution from the normally aspirated I/C
engine to one that is turbocharged to one that has a turbine assist for
more than just increasing the pressure of the charge (ie, adds mechanical
work too) to the turbine engine.  It happened a while ago in aviation.  :)

John

On Thu, 19 Sep 1996, Jim Butler wrote:

> 
> >From:  John Napoli[SMTP:jgn@li.net]
> >Sent:  Tuesday, September 17, 1996 11:15 PM
> >To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> >Subject:  Re: Math Question
> >
> >
> > If we were able to utilize a third of the waste heat, wouldn't that make a
> > big difference?  Instead of raising CAFE with smaller and lighter cars, we
> > would raise it by being more efficient.  I doubt that all the EFI software
> > in the world will make much more MPG than we see right now.  I would like
> > to see something intelligent about using the waste heat.
> 
> 
> 	In a relatively old textbook that I have on heat engines (40's or 50's
> era) there's a discussion of the idea of following an IC with a gas-turbine.
>  The context wasn't like that of a turbocharger, but rather with the turbine
> shaft connected though a mechanical drive to the driveshaft, hence combining
> the output of the two for useful work.
> 
> 	FWIW,
> 
> 	Jim
> 
> --
> Jim Butler (butler@comm.mot.com)
> 


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep 21 02:33:37 1996
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Subject: Tom Cloud's self tuning EFI Idea
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Tom,  I think, what you are proposing is hardware and software that will
dyno tune the engine as you drive. Kinda like having a personal staff of
performance engineers in a black box to continuously search for that state
of "ultimate tune" for your hot rod. 

I do see potential problems though. For starters, if the system had all the
sensors needed to determine the "state of ultimate tune", how long would it
take the cpu to find it?? People that dyno tune engines on a regular baises
(TODD) would have a very good idea of this. I don't, but I'll guess any way.
Let say 20 full throttle quater mile runs just to get maxium dead stop
acceleration. There are lots of things to change and adjust, right?. I've
done this manually in my early hotrod years. You could spend a whole weekend
adjusting and evaluating things.

I'm assuming that the system is told a few things and given some baseline
parameters to work within. This would make an excellent excuse for a
speeding ticket, "My EEPROM got erased officer, so I needed to hold 155mph
for 20 minutes to adjust the upper end of my fuel map." I think you get my
point, even with a fast cpu it's going to take a few runs to set every thing
up. 

I've been told differently, but I honestly believe the GM TPI system does
this to a certian extent with ignition timeing. I've experienced and read
(or imagined that I read) that ignition timeing is bumped up in small
increments from a baseline value until knock is detected. Then it's retarded
a fixed amount and the process starts over again. This is done, I believe,
to make the best use of the gas being currently used under the actual
current conditions. If GM isn't doing this, remember you herd it from me first:)

I would be interested in exploring this futher. It is certianly possible
with todays off the shelf components. This would be a DIY'ers dream come true.

GMD





From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep 21 03:30:10 1996
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Message-Id: <199609210324.XAA06783@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
To: diy_efi
cc: gcouger@ceatlabs.okstate.edu
Subject: Re: Fuel Air Diesel engine induction 
In-reply-to: Your message of "Sat, 20 Sep 1996 20:53:05 +0200."
             <9609202053.aa13014@device.data.co.za> 
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 22:26:17 -0500
From: Gordon Couger <gcouger@ceatlabs.okstate.edu>
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>> Dirty little diesel secret.  Propane.  Since a diesel runs with an 
>> excess of oxygen, with the right fuel, you can make more power.  
>> Lots more power - like 25% more without busting a wrench. 
>> (Check BI FUEL references on the internet). 
>> 
>> You merely meter propane to the intake air of a diesel engine in 
>> proportion to the EXTRA power you would like to make - like a 
>> throttle plate NOS system, without the NOS.  Since the auto
>> inanition temp of propane is ridiculously high, it won't ignite
>> until you introduce it to the fire from the injected fuel.  Since it
>> requires a relatively rich mixture to sustain combustion ( 
>> compared to gasoline) a lean mixture is not prone to backfiring.
>
It works great. Just watch your exuast gas temperture. You can melt down
a turbo or and engin this way. I don't know if it is still being done
but in the 60's & 70's it was used to get you through the "hard spots"
by some folks. If they didn't over use it they seemed to get by pretty 
well.

It would be interesting to see what you could do with propane injection 
and water injection to keep the temperatures under control.

One thing I wonder about with water injection is high pressure steam is
pretty corosive stuff. I would worry about piston, valve and turbo 
errosion.

Gordon


Gordon Couger Senior Software Specialist
Biosystems & Agricultural Engineering Dept.  Oklahoma State Univ.
114 Ag Hall Stillwater, OK 74075
gcouger@master.ceat.okstate.edu

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep 21 03:43:26 1996
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To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #277
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 20:42:30 -0700
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-> From: hoss karoly <timothy@bekes.hungary.net>
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #277
> Date: Tuesday, September 17, 1996 12:48 PM

Try metering it as a linear percentage of fuel you inject.  This
will give you a single tuning factor - the per cent you wish
to inject.  All other factors - temp, air flow etc. will have been
solved by the EFI.  Most written research talks about water
injection as a relationship between fuel and water.  After all
there is a strong correlation between fuel consumed and 
EXCESS heat available for conversion.

This method will allow you to start small, find out what YOUR
engine likes and not have to go crazy trying to come up with
a complete control system.  May not be optimum, but it will
go a long way to solving the problem.  Besides, if as the skeptics
say it only works as an anti-detonant, then you have not invested
a lot into putting theory to the pavement.
 
----     Cut here - personal comment follows -----





This signature line censored because it
offended a government employee
  
Robert Harris <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>


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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep 21 04:52:39 1996
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 23:36:38
From: Jemikhaas@gnn.com (Michael Haas)
To: diy_efi
Subject: 6811 Disassembler
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Hi,
	
	Could you send me a Copy of your 68HC11 Disassembler using Base 64.

						Thank You Very Much

						Michael J. Haas



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep 21 12:59:42 1996
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Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 08:52:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: Thor Johnson <johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Tom Cloud's self tuning EFI Idea
In-Reply-To: <199609210224.VAA27363@ns.tecinfo.com>
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On Fri, 20 Sep 1996, George M. Dailey wrote:

> Tom,  I think, what you are proposing is hardware and software that will
> dyno tune the engine as you drive. Kinda like having a personal staff of
> performance engineers in a black box to continuously search for that state
> of "ultimate tune" for your hot rod. 

> I would be interested in exploring this futher. It is certianly possible
> with todays off the shelf components. This would be a DIY'ers dream come true.

  I'll keep lookinghere for ideas/sensors/methods.  This is what I hope 
to accomplish with my homebrew engine mgmt system for FSAE.  I think the 
limiting factor (as tuning speed goes) will be response of the sensors - 
I've head that O2 sensors can take up to 1sec to responsd... can someone 
comment on this? (seems to be the slowest sensor...)


                Thor Johnson
       johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu
   http://falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu/~johnsont
                                                    
         Have you seen the WarpMap lately?                    
 http://falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu/~johnsont/warpmap  



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep 21 16:36:59 1996
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	Sat, 21 Sep 1996 09:32:55 PDT
From: "Michael Farrugia" <mikefarr@hotmail.com>
To: DIY_EFI
Subject: Finding/constructing a dyno
Content-Type: text/plain
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Hello everybody,

Currently I am trying to build an electronic engine management unit.
To be able to quantize the amount of improvement made I think I would
be needing a dynamometer.  In fact I am considering buying one 
depending on the price.  Does anyone know the price range for a sinple
dynamometer which should be capable to dissipate about 250 bph.
I would consider buying new or second-hand depending on the price.

If the price is prohibitive I would consider constructing one.  So
if anyone has ideas on what to use to dissipate the power it would be
greatly appreciated.



Thanks in anticipation

Michael Farrugia


---------------------------------------------------------
Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep 22 03:47:03 1996
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From: "John Faubion" <jfaubion@beaches.net>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Acceleration of Vehicles
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 22:15:41 -0500
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> I was wondering how you measured the acceleration of your dragster.
> This is something I was planning to do with an Analog devices 
> accelerometer.
> Any information would be appreciated.

RacePak makes a data logging system that has an accelerometer built into
it. From looking at it the ADXL-05 from Analog Devices should work very
well. 

John Faubion
jfaubion@beaches.net

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep 22 13:56:25 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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On Fri, 20 Sep 1996, Robert Harris wrote:
> Dirty little diesel secret.  Propane.  Since a diesel runs with an 
> excess of oxygen, with the right fuel, you can make more power.  
> Lots more power - like 25% more without busting a wrench. 
> (Check BI FUEL references on the internet). 

OK, what if you added NOS also? Cools the intake to some really really 
cold temperature and adds even more oxygen.

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep 22 17:00:10 1996
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Hey Rickydik - you out there? Drove the mbz around some tonight for the
first time.
Feels like this brain is programmed more toward stoichoimetric, ie big bog.
Do the 
d-jetronic's have a eprom? Is it swapable?  The original was a Bosch 0 280
002 013,
and the one I replaced it with is a 0 280 002 005. Any ideas? Being as this
rig is 
puny engined anyhow I kneed whatever it can do, and jacking fuel pressure
will make 
a pig of it.  


"a society that will trade a little freedom for a little order 
deserves neither"
                                                       Thomas Jefferson

Clinton doesn't want anything Hitler didn't have.

What do you get with Bob Dole, Bill Clinton, and Dolly Parton in the same room?

Two boobs and a country singer!
 
Harry Browne for president 96!                              Talltom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep 22 17:00:10 1996
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>From: Thor Johnson <johnsont@falcon.mercer.peachnet.edu>
>Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 08:52:44 -0400 (EDT)
>Subject: Re: Tom Cloud's self tuning EFI Idea
>
>On Fri, 20 Sep 1996, George M. Dailey wrote:
>
>> Tom,  I think, what you are proposing is hardware and software that will
>> dyno tune the engine as you drive. Kinda like having a personal staff of
>> performance engineers in a black box to continuously search for that state
>> of "ultimate tune" for your hot rod. 
>
>> I would be interested in exploring this futher. It is certianly possible
>> with todays off the shelf components. This would be a DIY'ers dream come
true.
>
>  I'll keep lookinghere for ideas/sensors/methods.  This is what I hope 
>to accomplish with my homebrew engine mgmt system for FSAE.  I think the 
>limiting factor (as tuning speed goes) will be response of the sensors - 
>I've head that O2 sensors can take up to 1sec to responsd... can someone 
>comment on this? (seems to be the slowest sensor...)
>
>

I thought I was the first one to bring that idea up! Oh well.
  My expierience with o2 sensors sez they're much faster than that. I've even 
heard of ideas of calculating the time and firing order in such a way as
to get an o2 reading for each individual cylinder(we're talking two sensor
v8 here) so mixture could be varied from cyl to cyl. Course if outfits like
Chevrolet and Kinsler made their ports symetrical that probably wouldn't be
necessary.(Oops, I see the latest chev small block figured this out, even went
to the smooth firing order!) I believe some manufacturer may be already be
doing this. The way I understand the workings of an o2 sensor, one wouldn't
think they could be very fast reacting, but they sure as heck seem to be.
Sorry I can't 
get any more specific, but sometimes the impression made on the ahole is what
counts most.
   Maybe I should also add that being a poor dumb sob means that no video camera
is available for the guages on a run so I usually get the job of watching guages
while sombody else keeps it out of the ditches. The one that gets most
attention is 
o2 sensor. 


"a society that will trade a little freedom for a little order 
deserves neither"
                                                       Thomas Jefferson

Clinton doesn't want anything Hitler didn't have.

What do you get with Bob Dole, Bill Clinton, and Dolly Parton in the same room?

Two boobs and a country singer!
 
Harry Browne for president 96!                              Talltom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 23 00:29:15 1996
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     And who said blind people couldn't drive cars ?  All we have to do is 
     blind everyone else and we are equal.  This little number with the 
     1040W is very close in colour to a fluorescent green, really makes it 
     stand out on the race track.  The everyday road car, well it's limited 
     to 600W lights and 600W stereo.  Still very impressive on a dark road 
     though.
     
     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au 


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: wasted-heat
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
Date:    9/20/96 9:31 PM


tom cloud wrote:
> 
> What I've observed for electrical power draws: 
>         headlamps       50 watts        ~ 4 A 
>         exterior lamps   10-20 watts    ~ 2 A 
>         interior lamps   10 watts       ~ 1 A
>         dash lamps       2 watts        ~ 200 mA.
>         ignition coil   50 watts        ~ 4 A (intermittent)
>         radio           2 - xx watts    ~ .25 amps (no volume) 
>         tape deck motor 2 watts         ~ .2 A
>         starter        1800 - 3000 watts ~ 150 - 250 A 
>         fuel pump       24 - 120 watts  ~ 2 - 10 amps 
>         blower motor    ( dunno )
>         computer        ( dunno )
> 
> Tom
the 140/100 headlamps draw a little more than 4 
and there are 6 spots to lighten up the road
about the audio sys I'm not sure . The amps are true only for the top 
load situation and this will be nice but I'm not sure it will ever 
reach this because the numbers on this new amp-speaker stuff are 
unbelieveably high.
Dan wrote :
>      I'm running 90/130W (low/high beam) in my headlights, a set of 150W 
>      sealed beam for high beam and a set of 150W spotties.  Comes to 180W 
>      at low beam (around town), switch on the high beam and you have 740W 
>      (due to the purposely designed wiring the low beam stays on when the 
>      high beam is switched on), then switch on the spotties (1040W) and 
>      boy, you'll be able to spot a roo 20Km up the road before you hit it.  
>      It does tend to flatten the battery over long periods though, the 
>      alternator drops to about 9.6V @ 6500 rpm when everything is on. 
>      
this is the reason I changed alternator to a 105 Amps one
nice to know that there are other blind boys are driving on the world 
my car is white by the way
     
bye
charley
     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 23 02:51:58 1996
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Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 08:05:00 +1200
From: "Woodd, Michael" <wooddm@akcity.govt.nz>
Organization: Auckland City
To: diy_efi (diy_efi)
Subject: RE: Tom Cloud's self tuning EFI Idea
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Excuse me? Anyway,

>I do see potential problems though. For starters, if the system had all the
>sensors needed to determine the "state of ultimate tune", how long would it
>take the cpu to find it?? People that dyno tune engines on a regular baises
>(TODD) would have a very good idea of this. I don't, but I'll guess any 
way.
>Let say 20 full throttle quater mile runs just to get maxium dead stop
>acceleration. There are lots of things to change and adjust, right?. I've
>done this manually in my early hotrod years. You could spend a whole 
weekend
>adjusting and evaluating things.

All a matter of software - the algorithm used.  Actually I was thinking more 
of a
circuit racing application, cos thats what I'm into, being as a car should
be nothing more than a tool for the driver, right? ;-)

And thats why I stressed the importance of having accurate measurements,
cos if they aren't, then your "perfect" algorithm is going to do funny 
things, like
take longer, or maybe even head in the wrong direction.

I plan on starting by simply investigating relationships between one sensor 
and
another reading, e.g. acceleration vs vertical g, to account for road bumps,
difference tween linear g vs wheel derived acceleration should give us the
gravity vector that tells us we're going up/down hill (I think, like I said, 
don't
know the physics well yet).
My end system will be a combination of these little black boxes, and for
prototyping they may be just that.

Mike Woodd
(wooddm@akcity.govt.nz)
Come on, gimme just one drive, I've been on a track before without pranging 
it...

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 23 09:29:35 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'Dirk Wright'"
	 <wright@uspto.gov>
Subject: RE: Learning Systems
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 16:38:18 +-200
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Bot being up with this stuff.. does it mean if it's patented we cant use =
it???? or does it mean that we can use it for our own fun, but not sell =
it? (or if we do pay royalties), or would we have to pay to even use it =
for fun.... If you get my drift?


Mark ;-)



----------
From:  Dirk Wright[SMTP:wright@uspto.gov]
Sent:  Friday, September 20, 1996 9:41 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Re: Learning Systems

On Fri, 20 Sep 1996, David Crocombe wrote:
>=20
> It would be interesting to play with this kind of learning
> in relation to cars. The vehicles could then be self tuning
> depending on environment, load, parameter drift, wear or
> whatever. I guess traction control and antilock brakes are
> a step in this direction of making cars more intelligent.

As an examiner at the patent office, I work in the automatic =
transmisison=20
field, as well as manual transmissions. Adaptive controllers are well=20
documented in the prior art, infact the Chrysler minivan was an adaptive =

transmission that adjusts for wear in the frictional members to maintain =

an optimum shift each time. There are others that sense a driving =
"style"=20
and adjust shift timing to meet that style. There are numerous adaptive=20
engine control schemes, also, but I don't work in that specific field,=20
although all of the automatic transmissions have an engine related=20
component.=20

If I can be helpful in locating some patents for you, please let me =
know.

*************************************************************************=
***
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 =
2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman =
House
*************************************************************************=
***




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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'Todd Knighton'"
	 <knighton@net-quest.com>
Subject: RE: Ignition timing in conjunction with
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 11:43:32 +-200
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Got my Spitfire SUs jetted to cope withthe exhaust/cam/inlet =
trupets/porting/every other bloody thing.

Paid a lot of moneyf for it too. Took the hood off, sat a bit of wire in =
the top of the vacuum pot, looked where it sat, span the needle up in =
the lathe and rubbed several thou' off it with fine wet and dry paper... =
did both.. runs a hell of a lot better now than it did after the tuners =
(who did a brill job of the other cars we got) did it, by guess work and =
sandpaper!

Mark

I don't recommend this!

----------
From:  Todd Knighton[SMTP:knighton@net-quest.com]
Sent:  Friday, September 20, 1996 10:41 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Re: Ignition timing in conjunction with

>=20
> Now, rich is a real problem for me.  It's when you wanna "GO" !  So,
> this is where I thought you'd measure acceleration or torque (strain
> gauge on motor mount).  But, Todd says no. =20

	An interesting experience that may prove a point.
	A car we set up and dyno'd by the power method had some pretty wierd
cams on 8.0/1 compression ratio, and turbo'd.  the thing loved fuel to
make power.  Peak power was found at about 8 or 9/1 air fuel.  put it on
the road and it was extremely sluggish.  Due to the air/fuel.=20
Recalibrated the thing to the correct air fuels for the appropriate
boost/compression ratio/cams and it all of a sudden ran great. =20
	figure this one out.  It made better power with more fuel, but didn't
accelerate as well.  I've seen this one a few times.
	In this case the torque measurement in car (namely seat of the pants)
worked better than the dyno.
	You can take this one either way, but I still feel that there is a
given set of numbers for each combo for air/fuel ratio's that works
best.  Don't work so hard to find them, just program them in, then let
your EGO find them.

> I don't know how he would do a real time feedback system, but he =
apparently=20
> thinks a knock sensor is good for this.

	Again, the knock sensor is good for us in our application where the
knock is so close to peak power.  Especially when we see 18 - 21/1
effective compression ratio's on boost, on pump fuels (92-93 octane),
lets talk twiddle fingers here.
	In other situations, as I mentioned earlier, we've seen peak power and
the knock limit be 20 degrees apart.  It's typically on low compression
ratio or really bad combustion chamber designs, but there's a lot of
those out there.

>  Mebbe so.  Seems to me this is more a function of
> timing than mixture.  [Now, there's a variable I haven't been =
considering
> -- i.e. timing!!]

	Knock sensors are used for timing only.  The only car I've seen that
does anything else with it is SAAB, they decrease boost and enrichen the
mixture upon knock as well as work with timing later.  but the try to
leave the timing up as far as possibly under the other conditions.


>  All I'm thinking of right now is A/F ratios.
>  So, you guys that DO know, jump in here and help us out!)

	Try 14.7 - 15 or even up into the 16's if your engine can handle it, it
depends on combustion chambers and flame propogation.  But at light
throttle run as lean as possible with no misfire.
	Go to 12.8 to 13.3 (pump fuel numbers) for max power and torque
normally aspirated.
	Boosted, lower the air fuel proportionately.  We air cooleds have to
run down in the 11.4-11.6/1 range at 20 psi with very good intercooling
to maintain peak power and reliability.  We get slightly better power at
about 11.8 - 12/1 but the combustion chambers get too hot.  Water
cooled's would probably be happy at 11.8-12.0/1.

Todd Knighton
Protomotive Engineering



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 23 10:32:02 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <DIY_EFI>,
        "'Todd King'"
	 <Todd_King@ccm.co.intel.com>
Subject: RE: net etiquette
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 11:38:46 +-200
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Thanx for saying it Todd.

----------
From:  Todd King[SMTP:Todd_King@ccm.co.intel.com]
Sent:  Friday, September 20, 1996 10:13 PM
To:  DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Re: net etiquette

  <<<   This signature line censored because it
  offended a government employee
  
  Robert Harris <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com> 
  >>>
  
  And now the originator is offended, and on and on- so the wisdom of following 
  basic net etiquette should be quite clear by now!
  
  Todd  Todd_King@ccm.co.intel.com
  
  



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 23 10:32:02 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'Michael Haas'"
	 <Jemikhaas@gnn.com>
Subject: RE: 6811 Disassembler
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 11:18:15 +-200
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Could somebody send me a base 64 thingy in either UUE or mimed?

(and its not cos I want to go thro' alt.bin.. etc!)

Mark  (who realy should have got hold of one of these things long ago!


Byeeeee!

----------
From:  Michael Haas[SMTP:Jemikhaas@gnn.com]
Sent:  Saturday, September 21, 1996 1:37 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  6811 Disassembler

Hi,
	
	Could you send me a Copy of your 68HC11 Disassembler using Base 64.

						Thank You Very Much

						Michael J. Haas





From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 23 10:33:00 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'tom cloud'" <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>,
        "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #277
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 11:44:47 +-200
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Same thing... 10 mph difference on a cold damp morning in a Citroen 2cv   (600 cc flat twin (BMW M/C engine))  ;-)

Mark


----------
From:  tom cloud[SMTP:cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu]
Sent:  Friday, September 20, 1996 6:12 PM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Re: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #277

        [ snip ]

>On a side note, I notice that a number of the water injection posts over the
>last week or so seem to imply that water injection can get more power out of
>a normally aspirated engine. I don't think that is true. 

I know on my motorcycle(s) -- they always ran noticeably better
when the humididity was hi.

Tom




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 23 12:22:01 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'DIY EFI'" <diy_efi>
Subject: MAP
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 14:01:46 +-200
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What are sensible MAP values? 

I am trying to decide what pressure transducer to use, and need to know what range MAP pressures are in.

I'm sorry for having to ask, but until I get my library in this country, I'm a little stuck for information.


Thanks in advance to anybody with any info.

PS   I don't care what units you use, I'll convert them!

TAL

Mark



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 23 13:12:02 1996
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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Tom Cloud's self tuning EFI Idea
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        [ snip ]

>I've head that O2 sensors can take up to 1sec to responsd... can someone 
>comment on this? (seems to be the slowest sensor...)
>
>
>                Thor Johnson

Thor, I'm fixin' to sound like I know what I'm talking about -- I don't.
That said:  The EGO is supposed to be fast enough to respond to each
pulse from each cylinder -- hence FOMOCO's SFI.  My old town car
had SFI and used an EGO in each exhaust manifold.  According to the
Ford book on emissions devices (don't know the name -- get it
at the part$ house), it samples the mixture from each cylinder
and adjusts same to achieve optimum fuel distribution.

Tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 23 14:07:49 1996
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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: self tuning efi
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     [ snipetty - snip ]

>I thought I was the first one to bring that idea up! Oh well.

Yeah, but I thought of it first !!

Tom "a legend in his own mind" Cloud


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 23 14:13:23 1996
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To: diy_efi
cc: "'tom cloud'" <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>, gcouger@ceatlabs.okstate.edu
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #277 
In-reply-to: Your message of "Mon, 23 Sep 1996 11:44:47."
             <01BBA948.645D5BC0@speed.demon.nl> 
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 08:56:57 -0500
From: Gordon Couger <gcouger@ceatlabs.okstate.edu>
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As I recall from my day in the air craft industry the power increase is from
lowered altitude density (more O2 in the carb.).

I also noticed that running a tractor at night often you could gain a gear
on pulling the load. Showing a good deal more power was being produced. Where
I was farming the day time altitude density would exceed 5,000 feet. 115 F and
15 percent humidity.

Gordon


Gordon Couger Senior Software Specialist
Biosystems & Agricultural Engineering Dept.  Oklahoma State Univ.
114 Ag Hall Stillwater, OK 74075
gcouger@master.ceat.okstate.edu

>Same thing... 10 mph difference on a cold damp morning in a Citroen 2cv   (600
 cc flat twin (BMW M/C engine))  ;-)
>----------
>From:  tom cloud[SMTP:cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu]
>
>        [ snip ]
>
>>On a side note, I notice that a number of the water injection posts over the
>>last week or so seem to imply that water injection can get more power out of
>>a normally aspirated engine. I don't think that is true. 
>
>I know on my motorcycle(s) -- they always ran noticeably better
>when the humididity was hi.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 23 14:42:56 1996
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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: MAP
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>
>
>What are sensible MAP values? 
>
Well, lessee: depends on what your sensor reads.  If it reads
absolute, then it would read 0" mercury at pure vacuum and would
read about 29" HG at atmospheric pressure.  Most sensors I know
about read absolute.

If it reads "gauge" (i.e. a reading relative to the current
atmos. pressure), then it would read 0" at atmospheric and
29" under total vacuum.

Your vacuum gauge you have in your tool kit is a bourdon tube
gauge and read "gauge" pressure, not absolute, so, it reads
zero when not connected to anything.  When connected to a
non-blown (i.e. "normally aspirated") engine, it should
read maybe 20" - 24" HG during idle or cruise.  Higher (greater
vacuum) for deceleration, and less for acceleration.

So, one atmosphere = 29" mercury = 760 mm HG = 760 torr = 14.7 psi.
If you're normally aspirated, you only need to measure from about
zero to one atmosphere.  If you're blown -- then ... gotta know boost
pressure.  If 14.7 psi = one atmosphere, then boost of 15 psi means
a total range of 0 to a little more than 2 atmospheres.

Tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 23 15:04:32 1996
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From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
Message-Id: <9609231449.AA09920@ivan.gallium.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #277
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> Same thing... 10 mph difference on a cold damp morning in a Citroen 2cv
                                       ^^^^

That's the secret. A colder charge is a denser charge (more oxygen, and with
carbs more fuel) so there is more power. The humidity can help ensure no det-
onation, but does not actaully add power.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


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>
>From: "Woodd, Michael" <wooddm@akcity.govt.nz>
>Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 08:05:00 +1200
>Subject: RE: Tom Cloud's self tuning EFI Idea
>
>Excuse me? Anyway,
>
>>I do see potential problems though. For starters, if the system had all the
>>sensors needed to determine the "state of ultimate tune", how long would it
>>take the cpu to find it?? People that dyno tune engines on a regular baises
>>(TODD) would have a very good idea of this. I don't, but I'll guess any 
>way.
>>Let say 20 full throttle quater mile runs just to get maxium dead stop
>>acceleration. There are lots of things to change and adjust, right?. I've
>>done this manually in my early hotrod years. You could spend a whole 
>weekend
>>adjusting and evaluating things.
>
>All a matter of software - the algorithm used.  Actually I was thinking more 
>of a
>circuit racing application, cos thats what I'm into, being as a car should
>be nothing more than a tool for the driver, right? ;-)
>
>And thats why I stressed the importance of having accurate measurements,
>cos if they aren't, then your "perfect" algorithm is going to do funny 
>things, like
>take longer, or maybe even head in the wrong direction.
>
>I plan on starting by simply investigating relationships between one sensor 
>and
>another reading, e.g. acceleration vs vertical g, to account for road bumps,
>difference tween linear g vs wheel derived acceleration should give us the
>gravity vector that tells us we're going up/down hill (I think, like I said, 
>don't
>know the physics well yet).
>My end system will be a combination of these little black boxes, and for
>prototyping they may be just that.

It might be an idea worth considering to have a sensor on a wheel that's 
not a drive wheel if that's possible for actual vehicle speed as compared
to what could be completely spurious numbers.


"a society that will trade a little freedom for a little order 
deserves neither"
                                                       Thomas Jefferson

Clinton doesn't want anything Hitler didn't have.

What do you get with Bob Dole, Bill Clinton, and Dolly Parton in the same room?

Two boobs and a country singer!
 
Harry Browne for president 96!                              Talltom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 23 17:40:53 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi>,
        "'Michael F. Sargent'"
	 <MSargent@gallium.com>
Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #277
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Temperature didn't make as much difference as fog!

I know... you have to be crazy to drive a 2cv flat out in mist / fog... but hey shit... it was fun hearing it SCREAM!

Mark  ;-)


----------
From:  Michael F. Sargent[SMTP:MSargent@gallium.com]
Sent:  Monday, September 23, 1996 4:50 PM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  RE: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #277

> Same thing... 10 mph difference on a cold damp morning in a Citroen 2cv
                                       ^^^^

That's the secret. A colder charge is a denser charge (more oxygen, and with
carbs more fuel) so there is more power. The humidity can help ensure no det-
onation, but does not actaully add power.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 01:51:45 1996
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>What are sensible MAP values? 

Assuming normal aspiration and sane camshafts, then idle at ~33 kPa 
(absolute), somewhere between 15-20 kPaA on over-run.  WOT is 101.325 
kPaA on a standard day or atmospheric pressure on any other day :)





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> Temperature didn't make as much difference as fog!

Fog increases the specific heat of air.  This will increase the charge 
density simply because the air is absorbing the same heat (from the 
inlet system) but will have a lesser increase in temperature, hence 
greater density.






From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 03:55:43 1996
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Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 02:13:48 +0200
From: hoss karoly <timothy@bekes.hungary.net>
Organization: Phoenix Ltd.
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Subject: Re: Fuel Air Diesel engine induction
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Gordon Couger wrote:
> 
> >> Dirty little diesel secret.  Propane. 
> It works great. Just watch your exuast gas temperture. You can melt down
> a turbo or and engin this way. I don't know if it is still being done
> but in the 60's & 70's it was used to get you through the "hard spots"
> by some folks. If they didn't over use it they seemed to get by pretty
> well.

what would you suggest to keep my exh-temp at ?
do you know some base-lines like max temp ?

> 
> It would be interesting to see what you could do with propane injection
> and water injection to keep the temperatures under control.

it definitely will be  

> One thing I wonder about with water injection is high pressure steam is
> pretty corosive stuff. I would worry about piston, valve and turbo
> errosion.

I don't worry about it too much . I don't plan to stop the engine right
after 
full throttle operation so she'll get time to get clean



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 04:13:13 1996
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From: "John Faubion" <jfaubion@beaches.net>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #281
Date: Sat, 21 Sep 1996 23:06:53 -0500
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> The reason I used the 3 number is that my drag modeling program says
> that my rig would develop about 2.7-2.8 g's just off the line. I'm
running
> a blown big block, and do drive it on the street.

Of course the computer could never be wrong. Right? Keep in mind that of
several different drag racing calculators we tried, most over estimated the
acceleration force of my dragster. In fact, one of them predicted 9, yes
NINE g's on launch! These calculated forces usually don't consider the
cushioning effect of tires and suspension. 
 
> Clinton doesn't want anything Hitler didn't have.

You know as much as I'm against the Clintons, I don't think this list it
the place for the political BS.

John Faubion
jfaubion@beaches.net


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 08:03:15 1996
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From: M HILL <EAXMJHI@ean2.mecheng.nottingham.ac.uk>
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To: diy_efi
Date:          Tue, 24 Sep 1996 08:57:41 GMT0BST
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>Clinton doesn't want anything Hitler didn't have.

>What do you get with Bob Dole, Bill Clinton, and Dolly Parton in the same room?

>Two boobs and a country singer!
 
>Harry Browne for president 96!                              Talltom

Can we leave the politics out of this, not just because this is for 
the discussion of DIY EFI, but some of us are not interested.  Not 
all of us live in the US you know.

Martin

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 10:31:45 1996
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I had a new scirocco in 79 and it normally got around 25 mpg. One
nippy(50s-60s) morning that was kind of foggy in places I drove 134 miles
more orless on the 
freeway and refueled upon arrival. I just about crapped. 2.4 gallons!
that's(48 mpg)
the only time in the life of the car I ever saw this, and the only thing changed
before or after was the weather.

>- ----------
>From:  tom cloud[SMTP:cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu]
>Sent:  Friday, September 20, 1996 6:12 PM
>To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject:  Re: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #277
>
>        [ snip ]
>
>>On a side note, I notice that a number of the water injection posts over the
>>last week or so seem to imply that water injection can get more power out of
>>a normally aspirated engine. I don't think that is true. 
>
>I know on my motorcycle(s) -- they always ran noticeably better
>when the humididity was hi.
>
>Tom

>


"a society that will trade a little freedom for a little order 
deserves neither"
                                                       Thomas Jefferson

Clinton doesn't want anything Hitler didn't have.

What do you get with Bob Dole, Bill Clinton, and Dolly Parton in the same room?

Two boobs and a country singer!
 
Harry Browne for president 96!                              Talltom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 11:13:39 1996
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>------------------------------
>
>From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
>Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 08:44:43 -0500
>Subject: Re: self tuning efi
>
>     [ snipetty - snip ]
>
>>I thought I was the first one to bring that idea up! Oh well.
>
>Yeah, but I thought of it first !!
>
>Tom "a legend in his own mind" Cloud

Doesn't really matter, either way it's Tom's idea. I certainly don't have
the money,
or life expectancy needed for a patent, or the capability to put a
functioning one
together.
   I'm just hoping some of the rest around here find the idea intriguing
enough to 
do one, and if I'm around long enough, and still have cars around maybe I'll
be able to use one. Considering that the latest car I got took 24 years to
get to the point
I could afford it, I doubt much of it's relevent anyway.    


"a society that will trade a little freedom for a little order 
deserves neither"
                                                       Thomas Jefferson

Clinton doesn't want anything Hitler didn't have.

What do you get with Bob Dole, Bill Clinton, and Dolly Parton in the same room?

Two boobs and a country singer!
 
Harry Browne for president 96!                              Talltom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 12:29:39 1996
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	id AA843578746; Tue, 24 Sep 96 20:59:34 EST
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 96 20:59:34 EST
From: "Al Grippo" <Al_Grippo_at_~AT-VAP1@cc.atinc.com>
Message-Id: <9608248435.AA843578746@cc.atinc.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Chip operating temperatures
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  IC chips for automotive use are generally specified as having operating 
temperatures from -40 deg C to 125 or 150 deg C.  The 68332 chips bought in the 
group pcb buy were rated 0 deg C to 70 deg C (32 deg F to 158 deg F).  I'm sure 
these are ok for prototypes, but is anyone concerned about them lasting 50-100 
k miles in a real environment ?

  Most of the critical parts for the board which I have accumulated are in the 
automotive temperature range, but I have not been able to get the 68332 or sram 
chips in this range.  I know the part numbers, but was told by several major 
suppliers (newark, future, hallmark) that these industrial/ milspec chips are 
not stock items and must be ordered in large quantities. The same applies to 
sram (the highest industrial range here is -40 deg C to 70 deg C). Is anyone 
interested in a group buy for these ?

 Al Grippo


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 13:11:47 1996
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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
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>> Temperature didn't make as much difference as fog!
>
>Fog increases the specific heat of air.  This will increase the charge 
>density simply because the air is absorbing the same heat (from the 
>inlet system) but will have a lesser increase in temperature, hence 
>greater density.

wha'd he say?  it all works out the same, seems t' me -- raise the
humidity, get power increase -- i don't imagine it, works at any temp,
mebbe this is why so many folks are asking about water injection ??


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 13:18:26 1996
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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V1 #281
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Reply-To: diy_efi

      [ snippy  ]

>> Clinton doesn't want anything Hitler didn't have.
>
>You know as much as I'm against the Clintons, I don't think this list it
>the place for the political BS.
>
>John Faubion

Oh, lighten up !!


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 14:11:42 1996
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Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 10:01:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jay Snyder <jsnyder@microserve.net>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
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On Tue, 24 Sep 1996, Al Grippo wrote:

>   IC chips for automotive use are generally specified as having operating 
> temperatures from -40 deg C to 125 or 150 deg C.  The 68332 chips bought in the 
> group pcb buy were rated 0 deg C to 70 deg C (32 deg F to 158 deg F).  I'm sure 
> these are ok for prototypes, but is anyone concerned about them lasting 50-100 
> k miles in a real environment ?
> 
>   Most of the critical parts for the board which I have accumulated are in the 
> automotive temperature range, but I have not been able to get the 68332 or sram 
> chips in this range.  I know the part numbers, but was told by several major 
> suppliers (newark, future, hallmark) that these industrial/ milspec chips are 
> not stock items and must be ordered in large quantities. The same applies to 
> sram (the highest industrial range here is -40 deg C to 70 deg C). Is anyone 
> interested in a group buy for these ?
> 
>  Al Grippo

Commercial Temp's should be OK if you mount the computer in the passenger
side of the firewall.   Most ECM's are above/behind the glove box, and
others are under one of the front seats.

J.



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 15:49:36 1996
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Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 08:43:50 -0700
To: diy_efi
From: Sandy <sganz@westworld.com>
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
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At 08:59 PM 9/24/96 EST, you wrote:
>  IC chips for automotive use are generally specified as having operating 
>temperatures from -40 deg C to 125 or 150 deg C.  The 68332 chips bought in
the 
>group pcb buy were rated 0 deg C to 70 deg C (32 deg F to 158 deg F).  I'm
sure 
>these are ok for prototypes, but is anyone concerned about them lasting 50-100 
>k miles in a real environment ?
>

I mentioned this problem a while ago. The solution became to not mount the
processor under the hood. Not the best, but solves much of the heat problem.
Even that still can be on the edge of the temperature extreems. 


Sandy


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 16:20:26 1996
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From: "Robert Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: water/temp/mileage
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 09:11:31 -0700
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Got new asbestos underwear, so try these thoughts on for size

Given:
  A:  The two major products of combustion are carbon dioxide and water
  B.  You make two gallons of water for every gallon of gasoline you burn
  C:  The partial pressure contributed by steam is much higher than that
        contributed by CO2 or N2 (the other major gas's present)
  D:  You have at least 65 to 70% of the heat released in combustion  
       available as EXCESS heat (i.e. not converted to mechanical energy) 
  E:  You want the means to precisely meter the fuel (or why would you
       be subscribing to this list) and any other engine things - like
adding
       water injection.
     
Contemplate
  A:  Since combustion makes vast quantities of steam where there was
       no water before, and steam has a good percentage of the partial
pressure
       perhaps it might have something to do with BMEP
  B:  Brake Mean Effective Pressure (BMEP) might have some vague
       relationship to power, torque, mechanical energy developed
  C:  If A and B has any truth, perhaps adding a little bit more water
might 
       make a little bit more contribution to BMEP by converting some
EXCESS 
       heat to some MORE steam.

Your Options:
   A:  Flame the author.  If it was not documented by some European dude 40
        years ago it must not work or can't be possible or can only work
the way the
        dead dude said prior to the onset of senility or technology.
   B:  Trash the idea, if you haven't heard about it being widely used it
ain't going
        to work anyway.
   C:  Ignore the physics and chemistry of the whole proposition and throw
out
        a whole bunch of ninny so theres and can't be's and apples to road
apples
        comparisons.
   D:  Calculate: Assuming 30 (damned good)  percent conversion chemical to
        mechanical energy

        70% Excess heat available.  Convert 10% of the EXCESS heat to 
        mechanical energy.  That means an addition 7% total conversion by 
        using a heat recovery mechanism.  Total engine conversion is now
37%
        a gain of 20 some percent in power from the same heat.

        Tell that to any racer, and before you can blink, the kids are sold
into
        slavery, wives off to  prostitution and grannies pushing a shopping

        cart - whatever it takes to put that to the pavement - specially
since 
        the difference between first and forget are often a single digit
percent
        of power.

   E:  If D intrigues you, quietly meter some water injection to the engine
of
        your choice.  Use your EFI fuel output value to get a baseline and
add
        some injected water (properly distributed and atomized) as a linear
        percentage of fuel.  Vary the percentage slowly upward until you
find
        out what your engine combination likes.  You know what a cool foggy
        day does for you.  Now everyday is a cool foggy day and then some.
        If it makes more power and economy - keep it a secret, because Mr  
                       thermodynamics and his Greek Chorus say it can't be
done  Just blow 
        their doors off and say "Pure F'ng Magic Dude.)  Who really care's
why 
        why it works, as long as it puts power to the pavement.  If Merlin
put a
        spell on a double a fuel dragster and it started winning, believe
me 
        every Ricky racer would be looking for a magician.  Remember
        Contempt before Investigation leads to a lot of lost opportunities.


-----     Cut here - personal comment follows -----

Q: What's the difference between Jane Fonda and Bill Clinton?
A: She had the balls to go to Viet Nam
  
Robert Harris <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>


----------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 16:21:27 1996
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From: Bruce Bowling <bowling@cebaf.gov>
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 12:15:52 EDT
In-Reply-To: <2.2.32.19960924154350.00905f78@mail.westworld.com>; from "Sandy" at Sep 24, 96 8:43 am
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> 
> At 08:59 PM 9/24/96 EST, you wrote:
> >  IC chips for automotive use are generally specified as having operating 
> >temperatures from -40 deg C to 125 or 150 deg C.  The 68332 chips bought in
> the 
> >group pcb buy were rated 0 deg C to 70 deg C (32 deg F to 158 deg F).  I'm
> sure 
> >these are ok for prototypes, but is anyone concerned about them lasting 50-100 
> >k miles in a real environment ?
> >
> 
> I mentioned this problem a while ago. The solution became to not mount the
> processor under the hood. Not the best, but solves much of the heat problem.
> Even that still can be on the edge of the temperature extreems. 
> 
> 
> Sandy
> 
> 
But what about temperatures below zero degrees? Here in the mid-atlantic
area of the U.S., there are plenty of mornings where I have to scrape
off the frost from the windshield, or replace the radiator because
I forgot to add anti-freeze. Will the chips works in the cold region
properly?

- Bruce


--
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------
                 Bruce A. Bowling
                 Staff Scientist
   Thomas Jefferson National Accelerator Facility
    12000 Jefferson Ave - Newport News, VA 23602
                 (804) 249-7240
bowling@cebaf.gov  http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling
-----------------------------------------------------
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
-----------------------------------------------------

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 16:58:41 1996
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Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 10:49:47 -0600
To: diy_efi
From: Wayne Braun <Wayne.Braun@Develcon.com>
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
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Reply-To: diy_efi

At 08:59 PM 9/24/96 EST, you wrote:
>  IC chips for automotive use are generally specified as having operating 
>temperatures from -40 deg C to 125 or 150 deg C.  The 68332 chips bought in
the 
>group pcb buy were rated 0 deg C to 70 deg C (32 deg F to 158 deg F).  I'm
sure 
>these are ok for prototypes, but is anyone concerned about them lasting 50-100 
>k miles in a real environment ?
>
>  Most of the critical parts for the board which I have accumulated are in the 
>automotive temperature range, but I have not been able to get the 68332 or
sram 
>chips in this range.  I know the part numbers, but was told by several major 
>suppliers (newark, future, hallmark) that these industrial/ milspec chips are 
>not stock items and must be ordered in large quantities. The same applies to 
>sram (the highest industrial range here is -40 deg C to 70 deg C). Is anyone 
>interested in a group buy for these ?
>
> Al Grippo
>


        For prototypes, I think these parts will work fine. We can get the
systems working and work the bugs out etc...

        It does not usually get much over +40C here so the top end of the
temp range is not much of a concern. BUT, winter IS comming. It is already
going down to +3C at night, and -40C is not that unusual. I for one will
need parts that I can rely on to work at least down to -40C and preferrably
-50C. At -40C, things can get very serious in a big hurry and the last thing
that you need is a vehicle that will not run due to the cold. Last winter
there were days where the temp did not warm up to -40. I know, I know, if
its that cold just stay inside, sometimes that is not an option ( my boss
has this foolish notion that I should show up for work ).

        If you are putting together a buy, I'm in.

        Wayne ( I really need to find a more moderate climate ) Braun
Wayne Braun     Product Support Services       Develcon Electronics
EMAIL: Wayne.Braun@Develcon.com                HTTP://WWW.Develcon.com
Phone 1-800-667-9333  or ( 306 ) 933-3300      FTP://FTP.Develcon.com
Standard disclaimer about speaking only for myself etc......


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 18:39:51 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: Stephen Dubovsky <dubovsky@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
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At 12:15 PM 9/24/96 EDT, you wrote:

>But what about temperatures below zero degrees? Here in the mid-atlantic
>area of the U.S., there are plenty of mornings where I have to scrape
>off the frost from the windshield, or replace the radiator because
>I forgot to add anti-freeze. Will the chips works in the cold region
>properly?
>
>- Bruce


  I am an EE w/ a few years experiance so I HOPE I know what Im talking
about...  Most chips will work outside their temp range, but how well is
another story.  Most analog parts simply wont meet published specs (but when
do they?) like offset, slew rate, etc.  Most digital stuff still works, but
the timing parameters must be relaxed.  Every now and then you can find a
part that wont work in the cold, but often it can be replaced (w/ another
identical part).  Often the automative and comercial temp ranges are the
same part, but one is tested and guaranteed to the more extreme temps.  The
only real difference I can tell (from practical experience) is the
packaging.  The Mil spec stuff is almost always ceramic which may take the
temp cycling better, but the comercial and auto stuff appear to be in the
same plastic package (hope it doesn't crack at low temp).  
  In a nutshell:  If you derate the comercial parts they often work well
outside their spec temp range.  
SMD  

Remember that your interior can get VERY hot (when your away w/ the windows
rolled up) so dont assume your EFI computer will never have to work at 140F+
ambient if its in the passenger compartment (still want to be able to start
your car, right? ;)

  Oh, and the way to keep from replacing the radiator because you forgot to
add antifreeze is to use an air cooled engine;)  (Im a 911 owner)


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 19:11:19 1996
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Date: Tue, 24 Sep 96 15:06:08 EDT
From: benagh@ICD.Teradyne.COM (Jeff Benagh )
Message-Id: <9609241906.AA25960@donatello.ICD.Teradyne.COM>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
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To paraphrase Stephen Dubovsky's comment:

>   In a nutshell:  If you derate the comercial parts they often work well
> outside their spec temp range.  

The chips (usually) are physically the same.  If there is are several
sets of parameters in the databook (comm, ind/auto, military) you can
usually just use the other set of numbers.

The commercial parts were not sample tested in the other temp range
though.  And the packaging might be slightly different.  It's often
quite a challenge to effectively remove heat from parts, especially
when the ambient is 50C or so.  In general, the cooler you run them
the longer they will last, which isn't usually a factor for hobbyist
types.

Jeff

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 19:11:26 1996
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Message-Id: <199609241907.PAA15550@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
To: diy_efi
cc: gcouger@ceatlabs.okstate.edu
Subject: Re: Fuel Air Diesel engine induction 
In-reply-to: Your message of "Fri, 20 Sep 1996 02:13:48 +0200."
             <3241E1BC.3570@bekes.hungary.net> 
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 14:05:14 -0500
From: Gordon Couger <gcouger@ceatlabs.okstate.edu>
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Reply-To: diy_efi

>Gordon Couger wrote:
>> 
>> >> Dirty little diesel secret.  Propane. 
>> It works great. Just watch your exuast gas temperture. You can melt down
>> a turbo or and engin this way. I don't know if it is still being done
>> but in the 60's & 70's it was used to get you through the "hard spots"
>> by some folks. If they didn't over use it they seemed to get by pretty
>> well.
>
>what would you suggest to keep my exh-temp at ?
>do you know some base-lines like max temp ?
>
I don't recall. But I think it is pretty well documented in almost any
thing that discusses turbo chargers.  
>> 
>> One thing I wonder about with water injection is high pressure steam is
>> pretty corosive stuff. I would worry about piston, valve and turbo
>> errosion.
>
>I don't worry about it too much . I don't plan to stop the engine right
>after 
>full throttle operation so she'll get time to get clean

I am not worried so much about condensed water but the superheated steam
itself. If you are running hot at all and shut down from full power you
will end up with warped valves and frozen trubos if you do it very often.

Gordon

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 19:26:23 1996
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From: "Robert Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 12:15:49 -0700
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>From many years experience in the aerospace industry 
operating temperatures are much more important than 
storage temps.  Mounting the components within the 
passenger compartment will keep commercial quality 
components well within specs regardless of outside temp.

The mil-spec components price will shock your shorts off- 
so remember the big difference at high temps is the heat 
dissipation capabilities of the chips.  Think not?  I know 
many PC's that people paid top dollar for are running pushed
processors (lower speed rated chips operated at higher 
clock speeds) with a big fan glued to the chip.  Built a few 
myself (with the customer knowing it). I could go into why
hot chips get hotter - suffice to say that as temp goes up,
resistance goes down so current go's up causing temp to go
up so resistance goes down - ad naseum until either temp
stabilizes or chip fries. Pesky laws of physics again.

Do like PC's do.  Mount cooling fans to flow air over chips. 
Consider Pelzior effect cooling chips - I use them on Cyrix 686-166
chips in mini-towers.  Makes cold directly from current.  Available
from many sources.  But the best cure is to condition the signals 
and mount the box inside.  Believe me, the control electronics for
jet engines aren't bolted to the afterburner.

Cold temperatures specs relate more to physical properties rather
than electronic.  Storing cold like South Dakota blizzard and bringing
gently to human temperature (like in passenger compartment) is 
not generally harmful.  Blowing 4 second pass's at 40 below may 
crack, shatter or otherwise physically destroy said chips.

Nice side effect - the metal firewall between the engine and the control
box's blocks many of the stray EM (radio frequency noise) currents 
that can really hose up CPU's and memory etc.


-----     Cut here - personal comment follows -----
Q: What's the difference between Jane Fonda and Bill Clinton?
A: She had the balls to go to Viet Nam
  
Robert Harris <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>


----------
> From: Al Grippo <Al_Grippo_at_~AT-VAP1@cc.atinc.com>
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Chip operating temperatures
> Date: Tuesday, September 24, 1996 6:59 PM
> 
>   IC chips for automotive use are generally specified as having operating 
> temperatures from -40 deg C to 125 or 150 deg C.  The 68332 chips bought in the 
> group pcb buy were rated 0 deg C to 70 deg C (32 deg F to 158 deg F).  I'm sure 
> these are ok for prototypes, but is anyone concerned about them lasting 50-100 
> k miles in a real environment ?
> 
>   Most of the critical parts for the board which I have accumulated are in the 
> automotive temperature range, but I have not been able to get the 68332 or sram 
> chips in this range.  I know the part numbers, but was told by several major 
> suppliers (newark, future, hallmark) that these industrial/ milspec chips are 
> not stock items and must be ordered in large quantities. The same applies to 
> sram (the highest industrial range here is -40 deg C to 70 deg C). Is anyone 
> interested in a group buy for these ?
> 
>  Al Grippo

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 20:26:11 1996
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From: "Robert Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 13:22:53 -0700
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Before being over-concerned about the chip operating temp,
I'd look at the PC board itself.  These boards are nothing but
thin etched metal overlaid on a fiber-glass like material with
a lot of resin.  Every temperature cycle dries out a little more
resin.  They get brittle with age.  They crack with vibration. They
stress with each cycle - the board grows and shrinks at a rate
different than the metal traces.  Think I'm kidding. A desk top
pc generally lasts until the owner can't stand it anymore, while
a laptop is generally a tosser at about 3 to 4 years.  Laptops
get real brittle, with hairline cracks that can't be found or fixed.
Symptoms like random freeze ups etc. = bad board. Why -
vibration - temperature cycles - pressure cycles - that the 
desktop living at human comfort temperatures and no motion
stress does not see.

If it was up to me (and most German, Japanese and American car 
manufactures seem to follow the practice) I'd mount the board 
where there was the least thermal and mechanical stress possible
and minimize the problem.  Just a thought.


-----     Cut here - personal comment follows -----
Q: What's the difference between Jane Fonda and Bill Clinton?
A: She had the balls to go to Viet Nam
  
Robert Harris <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 20:29:07 1996
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Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 22:08:44 +0100
From: Johan Rodling <Johan.Rodling@Jrt.SE>
Message-Id: <199609242108.WAA09334@sputnic.jrt.se>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: D disease
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> From owner-diy_efi-outgoing@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu Sun Sep 22 19:57 GMT 1996
> Date: Sun, 22 Sep 1996 09:40:57 -0700 (PDT)
> X-Sender: talltom@mail.teleport.com
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> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> From: talltom <talltom@teleport.com>
> Subject: Re: D disease
> 
> 
> Hey Rickydik - you out there? Drove the mbz around some tonight for the
> first time.
> Feels like this brain is programmed more toward stoichoimetric, ie big bog.
> Do the 
> d-jetronic's have a eprom? Is it swapable?  The original was a Bosch 0 280
> 002 013,
> and the one I replaced it with is a 0 280 002 005. Any ideas? Being as this
> rig is 
> puny engined anyhow I kneed whatever it can do, and jacking fuel pressure
> will make 
> a pig of it

AS far as I know the D-Jetronic is an analog MAP system built on transistors. Got one my self. It's primarly designed for 4- & 6- cylinders, but is also used on V12's with a booster amplifier for the injetors. It works in batch mode, so it fires a group three injectors three times (?) each cycle.

Those two part num's that you got could be different sets for e.g. a 4-cyl & a 6-cyl engine, but I'm not sure. I sugest that you take a peak inside the box and for instance check how many transistors are mounted on the cooler. This might give a lead (the V12 type has no cooler).

Good Luck :-)

	/JR


Unix is simple, but it takes a genius to understand its simplicity. -DMR

'74 Jaguar XJ5.3 L (V12)
------------------------------------------------------
Johan Rodling             Email:  Johan.Rodling@Jrt.SE
JoRoTech HB               Phone:  +46 (0)18 36 90 91      
Borje, Stromsborg         Fax:    +46 (0)18 36 91 02      
S-755 92 Uppsala, Sweden  Mobile: +46 (0)708 385 380

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 20:50:55 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
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>At 12:15 PM 9/24/96 EDT, you wrote:
>
>>But what about temperatures below zero degrees? H

        [ snip ]

>about...  Most chips will work outside their temp range, but how well is
>another story.  Most analog parts simply wont meet published specs (but when
>do they?) like offset, slew rate, etc.  Most digital stuff still works, but

Precisely, but lets understand:  a digital part is just an analog circuit
in saturation (unless you're talking ECL, in which case it's analog stuff
that's NOT in saturation).  So, the analog parameters that shift cause the
degradation of the "digital" performance.  [BTW I have done analog and
digital design for a long time -- and I find that the parts most likely
to be on the ragged edge of specs are the digital ones -- esp. from
certain (smaller) mfgrs.]

>the timing parameters must be relaxed.  Every now and then you can find a
>part that wont work in the cold, but often it can be replaced (w/ another
>identical part).  Often the automative and comercial temp ranges are the
>same part, but one is tested and guaranteed to the more extreme temps.  The
>only real difference I can tell (from practical experience) is the
>packaging.  The Mil spec stuff is almost always ceramic which may take the
>temp cycling better, but the comercial and auto stuff appear to be in the
>same plastic package (hope it doesn't crack at low temp).

Typically, have three temp / performance ranges: commercial, industrial,
and military.  Price increases exponentially.  Military usually has best
specs, most tolerance for supply voltage and temp variation, etc.  Usually
has better plating on pins and is in ceramic header since epoxy softens
and melts at the upper end of the mil-spec temp range.  Also, can get
better moisture sealing with ceramic.  [One of the failure modes is
moisture drawn into a hot chip as it cools down -- most pronounced
with the plastic packages.]  If you'll look at the "storage"
specs you'll see that they can all be stored at high temps -- so,
it's the packaging and whether or not the device goes out of spec
that determines its rating.  At high temps, the carriers tend to migrate
across the junctions producing *permanently* degraded performance.  All
the cold will do is *temporarily* push the operating region out of
spec. -- make it not work right (i.e. you could be walking).

Bottom line: heat destroys; cold just makes it not work -- just like the
rest of the stuff in your car.

>  In a nutshell:  If you derate the comercial parts they often work well
>outside their spec temp range.  
>SMD  
>
>Remember that your interior can get VERY hot (when your away w/ the windows
>rolled up) so dont assume your EFI computer will never have to work at 140F+
>ambient if its in the passenger compartment (still want to be able to start
>your car, right? ;)

Be sure to have adequate heat sinking to the enclosure to get the heat
out of its interior.

>  Oh, and the way to keep from replacing the radiator because you forgot to
>add antifreeze is to use an air cooled engine;)  (Im a 911 owner)



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 20:57:16 1996
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From: "Mike Fahrion" <mfahrion@bb-elec.com>
Organization: B&B Electronics Mfg. Co.
To: diy_efi
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 16:01:28 +0000
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
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> To paraphrase Stephen Dubovsky's comment:
> 
> >   In a nutshell:  If you derate the comercial parts they often work well
> > outside their spec temp range.  
> 
> The chips (usually) are physically the same.  If there is are several
> sets of parameters in the databook (comm, ind/auto, military) you can
> usually just use the other set of numbers.
> 

An additional factor to ease your mind.  The parts will only have to 
operate in that extreme cold condition for a *very* short time.  The 
power consumption of the parts will heat them very quickly relative 
to that low of an ambient temp.  Obviously later the heat of the 
cabin will bring them up to a comfortable temp.

To take it one step further, it isn't terribly difficult to add a 
heater circuit that will turn on power to a several watt resistor 
when the ambient is below a certain threshold temp.  Almost always, 
this is the most practical way to extend operation of a circuit into 
frigid temps due to the (sometimes) availability problems of wide 
temp parts.

-mike
mfahrion@bb-elec.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Sep 24 21:31:31 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
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>>From many years experience in the aerospace industry 
>operating temperatures are much more important than 
>storage temps.  Mounting the components within the 
>passenger compartment will keep commercial quality 
>components well within specs regardless of outside temp.
>
>The mil-spec components price will shock your shorts off-

Yep

>so remember the big difference at high temps is the heat
>dissipation capabilities of the chips.  Think not?

the parameters of the chip itself change with delta-T, so the chips
are spec'd within certain limits.  As I said in another post, the
next biggie after what the manufacturer guarantees the chip
to do is the physical limitation of package (epoxy vs. ceramic).
Epoxy gets soft and melts / burns.  It also allows moisture to creep
into the chip.  So, the same chip *might* function at high
temp were it put into a better header -- then again, it might
not, as the mfgr selects the better chips to charge more money
for them!

>I know 
>many PC's that people paid top dollar for are running pushed
>processors (lower speed rated chips operated at higher 
>clock speeds) with a big fan glued to the chip.

Yep,  the heat in a digital circuit is mostly generated during
the rise and fall time -- not while its HI or LO, so slower chips,
pushed to faster PRR (i.e. clock period), will get hotter, as the
transitions are occuring more often per unit of time.  Therefore
a heat sink is necessary.

>Built a few 
>myself (with the customer knowing it). I could go into why
>hot chips get hotter - suffice to say that as temp goes up,
>resistance goes down so current go's up causing temp to go
>up so resistance goes down - ad naseum until either temp

Depends on whether we're talking about bipolar transistors for field
effect transistors.  Bipolars experience what is called *thermal
runaway* due to their Beta increasing with temperature.  In FET's, a
drop in resistance actually produces lower heat dissipation, since
P=EI and lower R means lower E dropped across the switch.  When selecting
an FET switch, one of the major parameters is lowest R(on).  What
we perceive as a high temp actually means a *real* hot spot(s)
inside on the chip.  At temps over something like 175 C or 200 C or
so, migration of carriers begins and the switching speeds begin
to deteriorate (permanently), causing more heating -- and on and on.

>stabilizes or chip fries. Pesky laws of physics again.
>
>Do like PC's do.  Mount cooling fans to flow air over chips. 
>Consider Pelzior effect cooling chips - I use them on Cyrix 686-166
>chips in mini-towers.  Makes cold directly from current.  Available
>from many sources.  But the best cure is to condition the signals 

Can mount metal tabs from the main heat generating sources to the
enclosure (or mount them directly on the enclosure) with fins on
the outside to help remove heat -- should be adequate for any condition
you're willing to live in.

        [ snip sommore ]


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 25 00:01:45 1996
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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
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Reply-To: diy_efi

Oh me, PCB's are *extremely* durable!  You can often bend one almost
double without causing any damage.  Hair line cracks are usually
caused in the manufacture process due to a slight imperfection
in either the mask (negative or positive) or the resist.  1/16"
epoxy-glass boards are made from (typically) four layers of fine
fiberglass cloth impregnated with epoxy resin.  They last for
many years -- there's stuff out there that's been working everyday
for over twenty years!!!  The major problem in circuit board failure
(and this is an industry statistic) is solder joints.  The major cause
of problems in circuits overall is connectors.  The rule of thumb
is solder it rather than use a connector (includes IC sockets) unless
it has to be removable.  It is not true that the boards dry out or
get brittle -- not epoxy glass.  Phenolic starts out brittle (that's
what you typically get if you buy from Radio Shack!) and is a very poor
substrate (that's what you call the stuff under the copper foil
the traces are made from).  The wiring in car dashes is usually
a flexible PCB made from a mylar film with the copper foil on it.

It is true that problems can be created by the way components are
mounted on the PCB.  For example,  GE made a two-way radio still
used in many police, taxi, and other commercial apps called a
Master-II.  The audio board is surrounded by a casting and is
about 5" square (been several years since I've been into one).
The push-pull audio output stage was two TO-220 transistors (much
like the transistors used to pulse injectors in EFI circuits)
which were soldered to the board and bolted to the casting for
heat dissipation.  A common occurence was intermittent or failed
audio due to the leads pulling away from the transistor's chip inside
its header.  See, the board was firmly mounted and the transistor
was also, being bolted down, so as it heated and cooled there
was no room for expansion/contraction eventually causing failure.
This problem was easily fixed by putting a little "jog" in the
transistor's leads so it could move a teensy bit.  (Yes, "teensy"
*IS* a technical term!)

I used to work with shake tables big enough to put a refrigerator on.
We simulated the vibes from rocket engines.  At resonance, it's
really neat to see stuff fly apart -- but PCB's weren't the problem.
Everything else was.  The case, the mountings, the connectors.  Any
large items on the PCB are also at risk -- e.g. relays, transformers,
pots, switches, etc.  The PCB itself is purty damm tuff!!

So: (in the order I think most important, i.e. it's debatable)

- Protect your components from temperature extremes.  Put heatsinks
on things that get hot, but remember, that if the heat goes into a
closed box, it will just heat everything else up, and the heatsink
cannot work very well in a closed space.  Try to get the heat outside,
if at all possible, by providing aluminum or copper (low thermal
resistance) paths directly from the part to the case.  Your enclosure
should be aluminum.  Don't use steel or plastic as the heat can't get out.

- Protect your circuit from dirt and humidity.  Digital circuits
aren't too sensitive to current leakage due to moisture / dirt
combo but your sensors are analog and Hi-Z.  That means they are
seriously affected by even slight moisture or dirt.  (Frankly, I'm
amazed the EGO works as well as it does, since its connector is near
a serious heat source and is exposed to lots of dirt and water.)
It's not a bad idea to coat the PCB.  A solder mask is a real help
in preventing humidity problems (on the other hand, it can be a real
PITA if a break should occur in a trace somewhere).

- Protect it from undue vibration (don't put heavy things on the
PCB, or if you must, be sure the board is supported near them).

- Dont put stress on connectors.  Keep them away from dirt and
liquids (water, oil, grease, battery acid, etc.)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

>Before being over-concerned about the chip operating temp,
>I'd look at the PC board itself.  These boards are nothing but
>thin etched metal overlaid on a fiber-glass like material with
>a lot of resin.  Every temperature cycle dries out a little more
>resin.  They get brittle with age.  They crack with vibration. They
>stress with each cycle - the board grows and shrinks at a rate
>different than the metal traces.  Think I'm kidding. A desk top
>pc generally lasts until the owner can't stand it anymore, while
>a laptop is generally a tosser at about 3 to 4 years.  Laptops
>get real brittle, with hairline cracks that can't be found or fixed.
>Symptoms like random freeze ups etc. = bad board. Why -
>vibration - temperature cycles - pressure cycles - that the 
>desktop living at human comfort temperatures and no motion
>stress does not see.
>
>If it was up to me (and most German, Japanese and American car 
>manufactures seem to follow the practice) I'd mount the board 
>where there was the least thermal and mechanical stress possible
>and minimize the problem.  Just a thought.
>


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 25 05:02:34 1996
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Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 23:59:50 -0500
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From: Donald Whisnant <dewhisna@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 6811 Disassembler
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>From:  Michael Haas[SMTP:Jemikhaas@gnn.com]
>Sent:  Saturday, September 21, 1996 1:37 AM
>To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject:  6811 Disassembler
>
>Hi,
>	
>	Could you send me a Copy of your 68HC11 Disassembler using Base 64.
>
>						Thank You Very Much
>
>						Michael J. Haas
>


Michael...

I tried to email you a copy, but the message bounced back to me with an
"unknown host" error...  Email me private with your correct email address
and I'll try again...

Donald Whisnant
dewhisna@ix.netcom.com


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>the only time in the life of the car I ever saw this, and the only 
>thing changed before or after was the weather.

And the gas pump/petrol bowser or whatever you guys call it. :)





From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 25 07:58:24 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'tom cloud'" <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>,
        "diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: Chip operating temperatures
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 09:48:59 +-200
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Most boards that do get a dry joint over time can be fixed with an =
electric paint stripper!

Just put a dab of fresh solder on some strategic (and usualy the worst =
looking) pins so you can see which bits have got hot, and wave the ol' =
industrial hair dryer over it till it all melts!=20

Surface mount people call it infra red reflow! I call a damn sight =
quicker that going all over a board (esp SMT) with an iron!


Mark


----------
From:  tom cloud[SMTP:cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu]
Sent:  Wednesday, September 25, 1996 1:59 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Re: Chip operating temperatures

Oh me, PCB's are *extremely* durable!  You can often bend one almost
double without causing any damage.  Hair line cracks are usually
caused in the manufacture process due to a slight imperfection
in either the mask (negative or positive) or the resist.  1/16"
epoxy-glass boards are made from (typically) four layers of fine
fiberglass cloth impregnated with epoxy resin.  They last for
many years -- there's stuff out there that's been working everyday
for over twenty years!!!  The major problem in circuit board failure
(and this is an industry statistic) is solder joints.  The major cause
of problems in circuits overall is connectors.  The rule of thumb
is solder it rather than use a connector (includes IC sockets) unless
it has to be removable.  It is not true that the boards dry out or
get brittle -- not epoxy glass.  Phenolic starts out brittle (that's
what you typically get if you buy from Radio Shack!) and is a very poor
substrate (that's what you call the stuff under the copper foil
the traces are made from).  The wiring in car dashes is usually
a flexible PCB made from a mylar film with the copper foil on it.

It is true that problems can be created by the way components are
mounted on the PCB.  For example,  GE made a two-way radio still
used in many police, taxi, and other commercial apps called a
Master-II.  The audio board is surrounded by a casting and is
about 5" square (been several years since I've been into one).
The push-pull audio output stage was two TO-220 transistors (much
like the transistors used to pulse injectors in EFI circuits)
which were soldered to the board and bolted to the casting for
heat dissipation.  A common occurence was intermittent or failed
audio due to the leads pulling away from the transistor's chip inside
its header.  See, the board was firmly mounted and the transistor
was also, being bolted down, so as it heated and cooled there
was no room for expansion/contraction eventually causing failure.
This problem was easily fixed by putting a little "jog" in the
transistor's leads so it could move a teensy bit.  (Yes, "teensy"
*IS* a technical term!)

I used to work with shake tables big enough to put a refrigerator on.
We simulated the vibes from rocket engines.  At resonance, it's
really neat to see stuff fly apart -- but PCB's weren't the problem.
Everything else was.  The case, the mountings, the connectors.  Any
large items on the PCB are also at risk -- e.g. relays, transformers,
pots, switches, etc.  The PCB itself is purty damm tuff!!

So: (in the order I think most important, i.e. it's debatable)

- Protect your components from temperature extremes.  Put heatsinks
on things that get hot, but remember, that if the heat goes into a
closed box, it will just heat everything else up, and the heatsink
cannot work very well in a closed space.  Try to get the heat outside,
if at all possible, by providing aluminum or copper (low thermal
resistance) paths directly from the part to the case.  Your enclosure
should be aluminum.  Don't use steel or plastic as the heat can't get =
out.

- Protect your circuit from dirt and humidity.  Digital circuits
aren't too sensitive to current leakage due to moisture / dirt
combo but your sensors are analog and Hi-Z.  That means they are
seriously affected by even slight moisture or dirt.  (Frankly, I'm
amazed the EGO works as well as it does, since its connector is near
a serious heat source and is exposed to lots of dirt and water.)
It's not a bad idea to coat the PCB.  A solder mask is a real help
in preventing humidity problems (on the other hand, it can be a real
PITA if a break should occur in a trace somewhere).

- Protect it from undue vibration (don't put heavy things on the
PCB, or if you must, be sure the board is supported near them).

- Dont put stress on connectors.  Keep them away from dirt and
liquids (water, oil, grease, battery acid, etc.)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

>Before being over-concerned about the chip operating temp,
>I'd look at the PC board itself.  These boards are nothing but
>thin etched metal overlaid on a fiber-glass like material with
>a lot of resin.  Every temperature cycle dries out a little more
>resin.  They get brittle with age.  They crack with vibration. They
>stress with each cycle - the board grows and shrinks at a rate
>different than the metal traces.  Think I'm kidding. A desk top
>pc generally lasts until the owner can't stand it anymore, while
>a laptop is generally a tosser at about 3 to 4 years.  Laptops
>get real brittle, with hairline cracks that can't be found or fixed.
>Symptoms like random freeze ups etc. =3D bad board. Why -
>vibration - temperature cycles - pressure cycles - that the=20
>desktop living at human comfort temperatures and no motion
>stress does not see.
>
>If it was up to me (and most German, Japanese and American car=20
>manufactures seem to follow the practice) I'd mount the board=20
>where there was the least thermal and mechanical stress possible
>and minimize the problem.  Just a thought.
>




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 25 11:55:17 1996
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From: "David M Parrish" <dmp@bmesun1.MCG.EDU>
To: diy_efi
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 08:00:50 +0000
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
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> From:          "Mike Fahrion" <mfahrion@bb-elec.com>

> To take it one step further, it isn't terribly difficult to add a 
> heater circuit that will turn on power to a several watt resistor 
> when the ambient is below a certain threshold temp.  Almost always, 

Woah! I think we're getting a bit far afield here. Heat is the real 
killer of electronics. I doubt that even -40C would be detrimental to 
most electronics, especially IC's. 

---
David Parrish
Here in Georgia,
freezers don't even see -40!

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 25 13:49:14 1996
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From: "Mike Fahrion" <mfahrion@bb-elec.com>
Organization: B&B Electronics Mfg. Co.
To: diy_efi
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 08:50:52 +0000
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
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> > From:          "Mike Fahrion" <mfahrion@bb-elec.com>
> 
> > To take it one step further, it isn't terribly difficult to add a 
> > heater circuit that will turn on power to a several watt resistor 
> > when the ambient is below a certain threshold temp.  Almost always, 
> 
> Woah! I think we're getting a bit far afield here. Heat is the real 
> killer of electronics. I doubt that even -40C would be detrimental to 
> most electronics, especially IC's. 
> 

Sorry if I didn't explain myself clearly enough.  This method is used 
to extend the cold temp range of standard commercial parts (0 
degrees C - which can be a real problem).  The original post refered 
to problems getting industrial spec'ed parts for the application.  
The heater circuit turns on power to a heating resistor (usually just 
a few watts) below a threshold temp (say 0 degrees C).  Obviously it 
doesn't stay on indefinately - usually a bit of hysteresis is called 
for - say shut off the power at 5 degrees C.

If the cost &/or availability of industrial or mil spec parts is a 
problem this is a great solution.  One case where I used this 
solution was a design for use in Canada in an outdoor, unheated box.  
Several hundred of them have been working great with commercial spec 
parts for 3 years now.  In that case delivery of a required part was 
44 weeks vs stock for commercial spec, and 8 times the cost.  That's 
not too uncommon....

-mike
mfahrion@bb-elec.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 25 14:02:37 1996
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From: Stephen Dubovsky <dubovsky@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
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At 03:46 PM 9/24/96 -0500, you wrote:

>        [ snip ]
>
>Precisely, but lets understand:  a digital part is just an analog circuit
>in saturation 
        [snip]

  You sound like an analog guy,  I seem to remember that quantum physics
says the world is digital (quantum levels) ;)  (Im actually an analog/RF guy
myself)

S'am not looking for a flame'MD


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 25 14:02:39 1996
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From: "Robert Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 07:02:24 -0700
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All I know is the crap that I find in repairing brand name 
PC's such as Packaged Hell, IBM, Dell, Gateway and
Huo Fwung Dung Clones.  The boards are dog shit and
don't last unless dey ain't been fusted with.  Since shop
labor rates start at $45.00 an hour and my on site rate is
$75.00 an hour, I really don't either try to repair them or
determine wether there is a hairline crack or the component
joint failed.  I don't care - it don't work, its a tosser.  The
customer don't want to spend 45 bucks an hour - open 
end to find and fix a hairline crack on a PC.

And I guess these must be the cheap radio shack boards
because if you try bending them - they break rat now - real
easy.  Yes I have seen some wazoo mil-spec shit out there
last forever - mostly used on airplanes older than the pilots.
I am currently working a contract as an software integration
engineer on a Methuselah bird, so if they is done right, I 
know they can last. 

Point is, was that the whole damned assembly is much more
prone to failure from vibration and heat than the components 
themselves.  Move it to human comfort zone and just avoid all
the problems.

Side note - ever see the sci fi "Plasma Storms" or whatever. That
is sort of what the EMF environment is under the hood of a car.
Each time a plug fires there is an extreme amount of energy
generated from dc up into the microwave region.  Used to call
it spark gap transmission - thats how Marconi made his first 
wireless transmission across the Atlantic. There is a rotating ball
of EMF around the alternator and kicking the starter over - does
the word EMP mean anything?  Give you a clue - it's the pulse
from a nuclear event that fries the insides of devices electronic.
It's simulated by a large current released thru an inductor - sort
of like the collapsing field of a starter motor. 

If you can get your electronics out of that extremely hostile EMF
environment - say by putting a grounded metal firewall between
it and your computer, you will save one hell of a lot of time sorting
between real data and random induced noise. Also don't forget to
filter the DC as those lines carry a LOT of induced noise.

> From: tom cloud <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
> Date: Tuesday, September 24, 1996 4:58 PM
> 
> Oh me, PCB's are *extremely* durable!  You can often bend one almost
> double without causing any damage.  Hair line cracks are usually
-----     Cut here - personal comment follows -----
Q: What's the difference between Jane Fonda and Bill Clinton?
A: She had the balls to go to Viet Nam
  
Robert Harris <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>


----------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 25 15:21:56 1996
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To: diy_efi, dibble@hagar.ph.utexas.edu
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
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>At 03:46 PM 9/24/96 -0500, you wrote:
>
>>        [ snip ]
>>
>>Precisely, but lets understand:  a digital part is just an analog circuit
>>in saturation 
>        [snip]
>
>  You sound like an analog guy,  I seem to remember that quantum physics
>says the world is digital (quantum levels) ;)  (Im actually an analog/RF guy
>myself)
>
>S'am not looking for a flame'MD

actually, they're teaching quantum stuff in freshman chemistry,
gen'l physics, etc. now.  You show me your electron and I'll show
you mine, and if you can go from here to there without ever being
anywhere in between I'll .....


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 25 15:34:15 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: D disease
In-Reply-To: <199609242108.WAA09334@sputnic.jrt.se>
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On Tue, 24 Sep 1996, Johan Rodling wrote:

> 
> AS far as I know the D-Jetronic is an analog MAP system built on
transistors. Got one my self. It's primarly designed for 4- & 6-
cylinders, but is also used on V12's with a booster amplifier for the
injetors. It works in batch mode, so it fires a group three injectors
three times (?) each cycle. 

I've got a bunch of patents on the D-Jet system. It's comprised of a 
bistable multivibrator, triggered by the extra distributor points, which 
then triggers a mono-stable multivibrator with variable pulse length. 
Pulse length is responisve to temperature, manifold vacuum, throttle 
position, and speed. The bistable multivibrator determines the start of 
each pulse, the mono-stable multivibrator determines the length of the 
pulse. The output of the bistable multivibrator and the monostable 
multivibrator are fed to a pair of AND gates, which in turn drive a pair 
of power transistors that turn the injectors on and off. For 
four-cylinder cars, injectors are fired in pairs once every other 
revolution, so that one of the pairs is fired early and the other is 
fired right on time. The result is that the ones that are fired early 
don't make as much power, especially at low revs, because the fuel is 
less well atomized. At high revs, it doens't make much difference, since 
the fuel only sits for a very short time on the early cylinders.

Hope this helps.
****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 25 15:56:43 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
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On Wed, 25 Sep 1996, Mike Fahrion wrote:
> > 
> 
> Sorry if I didn't explain myself clearly enough.  This method is used 
> to extend the cold temp range of standard commercial parts (0 
> degrees C - which can be a real problem).  The original post refered 
> to problems getting industrial spec'ed parts for the application.  
> The heater circuit turns on power to a heating resistor (usually just 
> a few watts) below a threshold temp (say 0 degrees C).  Obviously it 
> doesn't stay on indefinately - usually a bit of hysteresis is called 
> for - say shut off the power at 5 degrees C.
> 

I guess if you installed the chips under the heated driver's seat, you 
could kill a couple of birds with one stone....


****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 25 16:39:05 1996
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To: diy_efi
cc: gcouger@ceatlabs.okstate.edu
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures 
In-reply-to: Your message of "Wed, 25 Sep 1996 08:50:52 -0000."
             <199609251344.IAA26680@rs232.bb-elec.com> 
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 11:34:23 -0500
From: Gordon Couger <gcouger@ceatlabs.okstate.edu>
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There are some resistors that increase resistance with temperature. I used
some for a student lab where they were controling the heat with a computer
and needed a lot of heat in a hurry but it needed to be fail safe. These
resistors will put out a fast heat pulse and never get to hot to hold. 

Gordon 

Gordon Couger Senior Software Specialist
Biosystems & Agricultural Engineering Dept.  Oklahoma State Univ.
114 Ag Hall Stillwater, OK 74075
gcouger@master.ceat.okstate.edu
>> > From:          "Mike Fahrion" <mfahrion@bb-elec.com>
>> 
>> > To take it one step further, it isn't terribly difficult to add a 
>> > heater circuit that will turn on power to a several watt resistor 
>> > when the ambient is below a certain threshold temp.  Almost always, 
>> 
>Sorry if I didn't explain myself clearly enough.  This method is used 
>to extend the cold temp range of standard commercial parts (0 
>degrees C - which can be a real problem).  The original post refered 
>to problems getting industrial spec'ed parts for the application.  
>The heater circuit turns on power to a heating resistor (usually just 
>a few watts) below a threshold temp (say 0 degrees C).  Obviously it 
>doesn't stay on indefinately - usually a bit of hysteresis is called 
>for - say shut off the power at 5 degrees C.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 25 20:13:35 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures 
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>There are some resistors that increase resistance with temperature. I used
>some for a student lab where they were controling the heat with a computer
>and needed a lot of heat in a hurry but it needed to be fail safe. These
>resistors will put out a fast heat pulse and never get to hot to hold. 
>
>Gordon 
>
>Gordon Couger Senior Software Specialist
>Biosystems & Agricultural Engineering Dept.  Oklahoma State Univ.
>114 Ag Hall Stillwater, OK 74075
>gcouger@master.ceat.okstate.edu

Nichrome, tungsten, and most other resistance wires have pos. tempcos
but I don't think they have a steep enough curve to be self-limiting
in such an application as this.

Light bulbs are tungsten and have several neat uses: constant current
sources, current limiters, heaters, -- and ... light sources.

If I were going to make a heater for an electronic hootis for my car,
I'd want to be sure that it didn't drain my car's battery.  If it
didn't have to be on all the time, I'd make it come with the ignition
switch -- but then it'd have to have a real fast rise, and that
would mean it could also be destructive if it were not controlled.

There are flat, flexible heaters encapsulated in silicone made
especially to bond to PCB's and that's what I'd try to use, as
that would heat only the control circuitry -- which would require
less heat as less would be lost through the case to the outside.

There are metal cased resistors (check Dale Electronics in an
electronics catalog -- e.g. Newark) that bolt to metal.  Could
use one of those on an aluminum plate.

Put either one in the collector of a common emitter transistor amp,
put a thermistor mounted to the same plate in the base circuit and
voila' a self-regulating heater.  Could also just buy a small
thermostat and use it.



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Wed Sep 25 23:09:49 1996
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Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 10:48:14 +1200
To: DIY_EFI
From: Jamie Cairns <James.Cairns.1@uni.massey.ac.nz>
Subject: Newby help.
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Hi all,

I am new to this mailing list, but would like to know of or hear from anyone
using the Motorola HC11 for any data-gathering or full blown fuel injection
applications. I am currently finishing a Computer Science degree, so I've
only looked at the possibility of doing this thing and sketched out some
avenues so far - to busy to get anywhere with it.

I am intending to create a fuel injection system for use with the Datsun L
series motor (4 cyl first, then 6). We have used the HC11 at varsity here,
so I am reasonably familiar with it, and have invested the $NZ25 in an
HC11F1. Now is the time to start PCB layout design. 

I do not think of myself as being proficient with hardware design - software
is my forte, so I would be grateful for any advice anyone could give me on
this subject, in particularly my hardware/usage requirements.


Thanks,
Jamie Cairns.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 26 02:40:52 1996
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re[2]: Chip operating temperatures
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______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
Date:    9/25/96 4:45 AM


     
     <snip>
     
  Oh, and the way to keep from replacing the radiator because you forgot to
add antifreeze is to use an air cooled engine;)  (Im a 911 owner)
     
     Or move to a warmer country

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 26 06:33:17 1996
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From: "Robert Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Digital Software Design
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 23:26:49 -0700
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Anyone up for opening a thread to deal with developing
a simple software algorithm following good engineering
practices - i.e. blatantly stealing anything that works?

Have worked out some ideas, but would like to open a
forum and reach a consensus.  I'm sure many of us 
have fragments that we could put together and make
a great program.

-----     Cut here - personal comment follows -----
Q: What's the difference between Jane Fonda and Bill Clinton?
A: She had the balls to go to Viet Nam
  
Robert Harris <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>


----------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 26 06:38:21 1996
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Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 23:33:38 -0700 (PDT)
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From: talltom <talltom@teleport.com>
Subject: Re: chip operating temperatures`
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   I'm going to take BOTH sides on this one! Generally I don't see to much 
problems with pcb's, except in cars. One of my customers has an electronics
co that has about 8000 ft of pcb's, and little problem with pcb's. On the 
other hand, I'm certain we could come up with a few rooms full of auto pcb's
with cracked traces, specifically Mercedes temp control. I don't know what
MBZ used for a substrate, but do know that the usual fix is to eyeball for 
and solder up cracks in trace.(Mine is mechanical, thank you)
    One thing I've never seen is the failure of the printed circuits on the 
what appears to be some type of mylar used in many dash assembly's. Anybody
know what the material is? And the difference in expansion rate between it 
and copper? I'm guessing that either the expansion rate is similar or copper 
exapnds more than the film, or I'm full of it. 


"a society that will trade a little freedom for a little order 
deserves neither"
                                                       Thomas Jefferson

Clinton doesn't want anything Hitler didn't have.

What do you get with Bob Dole, Bill Clinton, and Dolly Parton in the same room?

Two boobs and a country singer!
 
Harry Browne for president 96!                              Talltom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 26 08:57:00 1996
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From: "Hans Hintermaier" <HIHA@GNF99M.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de>
Organization:  LMU-GRH Dept. of Neurology
To: diy_efi
Date:          Thu, 26 Sep 1996 10:30:45 MET
Subject: Flex PCB
Priority: normal
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Talltom Wrote:
>    One thing I've never seen is the failure of the printed circuits on the 
>what appears to be some type of mylar used in many dash assembly's. 
>Anybody know what the material is? And the difference in expansion rate 
>between it and copper? I'm guessing that either the 
>expansion rate is similar or copper ....

Hi Tom,
I once worked as camera service technician at Olympus and Konica,
they only use in their modern compact cameras flexible PCB's.
The material was Polycarbonat, painted with an extremly durable,
transparent gloss, maybe Polyurethan based, which stabilized the PCB
a lot. Plastics expand generally much more than metals (I think)
There were nearly no failures caused by cracked traces in those 4 years
 I was working there. 
Regards
Hans
hiha@ brain.nefo.med.uni-muenchen.de
Munich / Germany

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 26 08:57:01 1996
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From: talltom <talltom@teleport.com>
Subject: Combustion chamber heat
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  I've noticed a little discrepency here in relation to combustion chambwer
heat.
It seems that some say it's necessary to go over rich to cool and prevent
preignition/detonation. Others say that thermal barrier coatings are the
neat trick,
which would make the combustion chamber hotter, and to me more knock prone.
I've heard it said that eng's with aluminum heads will make 30-40 hp less than 
same with cast iron heads.. Todd said he had to go rich on aircooled to keep
from
self destruction. My question is why, meltdown or preignition/detonation? If
it's
preignition/detoation wouldn't thermal barrier coatings make it worse?(barring 
carbon deposits)
  Hate to mention it, but yes I agree that the heat generated will be more
effective
in the cylinder, but art what cost in the way of ign timing penalties??
Really do hate to open the thermodynamics bag of worms again, but it seems
everybody I know
with air cooled says they're at a disadvantage, the aluminum guys say they're
at a disadvantage, and the cast iron crowd seems to think the aluminum guys
are ahead.
   Somebody's screwed! Question is who? (Either way I win, I have cast iron
and aluminum heads, and air cooled is out of the question, unless you're
talking Lister
diesel)    


"a society that will trade a little freedom for a little order 
deserves neither"
                                                       Thomas Jefferson

Clinton doesn't want anything Hitler didn't have.

What do you get with Bob Dole, Bill Clinton, and Dolly Parton in the same room?

Two boobs and a country singer!
 
Harry Browne for president 96!                              Talltom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 26 12:22:35 1996
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Date: Thu, 26 Sep 96 09:15 GMT-3:00
From: prebuf@fing.edu.uy (Pablo Rebufello - CECAL - )
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Digital Software Design
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Reply-To: diy_efi


Hi!

Some weeks ago I sent a mail asking for information to develop
a software to manipulate and visualize the data and the states of
all these "sensors", but I didn't receive any message back. 
I got a degree in Computer Science and I'm trying to get the
information I need just to develop a good soft.  I agree with you, 
and you can count with me in the development, as well as
in informatic things.

Pablo Rebufello
Uruguay
e-mail: prebuf@fing.edu.uy


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 26 13:31:58 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: iii@islandnet.com (Intec Inoventures Inc.)
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
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>                                       ...The 68332 chips bought in the 
>group pcb buy were rated 0 deg C to 70 deg C (32 deg F to 158 deg F).  I'm
sure 
>these are ok for prototypes, but is anyone concerned about them lasting 50-100 
>k miles in a real environment ?

You may want to check the specs on the 68332.  According to my book, the
MC68332FC is rated for -40C to +85C.  

While a car left in the hot sun can do serious damage to poor Fido (rated at
0 to 40C) locked inside, it is unlikely to get up to +85C.  However, less
than -40C in North Overshoe, Saskatchewan is not unlikely.  And when you go
to start it up in the morning, the interior is probably colder than the
engine compartment.

Incidentally, vinyl coated automotive wire from Wal-Mart or the likes, is
rated up to 75C.  It is darned tough getting flexible wire with a higher
temperature rating, short of going to fiberglass insulated oven wire.

Bob Furber


--------------------------------------------------------------------
    MC68HC16 Embedded Controllers and Software Development Tools    |
              WebPg   http://www.islandnet.com/~iii                 |
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Intec Inoventures Inc.       Phone   604-721-5150                   |
2751 Arbutus Road            Fax         721-4191                   |
Victoria   BC  V8N 5X7                                              |
Canada                                                              |
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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 26 13:42:29 1996
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From: "Robert Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Combustion chamber heat
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 06:38:37 -0700
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Any particular mechanically efficient engine combination has a sweet spot
of advance, generally at the onset of detonation, where maximum power is
made. If they are not close, such as the case with early FE heads, it means
you have either room for more mechanical improvement (e.g. more
compression)
or your chamber has gotten crapped up - dome shape etc.

Richening a mixture "cools" a mixture because more low evaporative
temperature
components vaporize prior to combustion, absorbing more latent heat from
the
air and cylinder, thus favorably changing the time/pressure/temperature 
detonation (ping/knock/big bang whatever) relationship.

Air cooled engines run hotter cylinders and heads, thus because of
temperature,
not mechanical compression, run closer to detonation than an identical
engine
that is water cooled.  Richening the mixture again cools the mixture,
allowing
more mechanical compression prior to detonation and thus more power out of 
the engine.

Aluminum heads absorb more heat during compression, keeping the mixture
cooler, allowing higher compression than iron heads.

Both air cooled and aluminum heads have the disadvantage of after ignition
of
rejecting more heat to the cooling system and thus are somewhat less
efficient
than iron heads.  Changing to aluminum heads from same design iron heads
generally involve adding a few degrees lead to compensate for the
additional
cooling of the charge by increased cooling system loss's.

Ceramic's work by vaporizing more fuel during compression, but more
importantly
retaining significantly more heat within the cylinder to make working
pressure
after combustion.  Lower cooling system loss's directly translate to power
at the
flywheel.  Ignition must be retarded several degrees to compensate for the 
higher initial charge temp, and faster flame spread because of reduced heat
loss's.

All of the above comparisons are based on the impossibility of mechanically
identical engines except for the changes noted. Please note an earlier
writer's
statement that a highly turbo'd mega output engine made peak power at 18
degrees advance - about half of what aluminum headed street V-8's like.
IMHO,
the more mechanically efficient (chemical energy converted to mechanical
energy) an engine is, the less total lead it will take to make maximum
power.

Just keep in mind that firing the mixture before top dead center, i.e.
spark 
advance means initially building pressure OPPOSING the pistons upward 
movement to build maximum pressure about 15 degrees past top dead center.


-----     Cut here - personal comment follows -----
Q: What's the difference between Jane Fonda and Bill Clinton?
A: She had the balls to go to Viet Nam
  
Robert Harris <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>


----------
> From: talltom <talltom@teleport.com>
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Combustion chamber heat
> Date: Thursday, September 26, 1996 1:45 AM
> 
> 
>   I've noticed a little discrepency here in relation to combustion
chambwer
> heat.
> It seems that some say it's necessary to go over rich to cool and prevent
> preignition/detonation. Others say that thermal barrier coatings are the
> neat trick,











From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 26 15:17:15 1996
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Message-ID: <01BBABCD.50470E60@speed.demon.nl>
From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'DIY EFI'" <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: Digital Software Design
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 16:51:26 +-200
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Sounds like a very good Idea to me.

I'll let you go first.. see if anybody follows

Mark

----------
From:  Robert Harris[SMTP:bob@bobthecomputerguy.com]
Sent:  Thursday, September 26, 1996 8:27 AM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Digital Software Design

Anyone up for opening a thread to deal with developing
a simple software algorithm following good engineering
practices - i.e. blatantly stealing anything that works?

Have worked out some ideas, but would like to open a
forum and reach a consensus.  I'm sure many of us 
have fragments that we could put together and make
a great program.

-----     Cut here - personal comment follows -----
Q: What's the difference between Jane Fonda and Bill Clinton?
A: She had the balls to go to Viet Nam
  
Robert Harris <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>


----------




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 26 15:25:37 1996
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	(Smail3.1.28.1 #4) id m0v6ICs-00000WC; Thu, 26 Sep 96 12:18 GMT-3:00
Message-Id: <m0v6ICs-00000WC@ferrari.fing.edu.uy>
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 96 12:18 GMT-3:00
From: prebuf@fing.edu.uy (Pablo Rebufello - CECAL - )
To: diy_efi
Subject: INFO to develop a software
Cc: saxon@zymurgy.org
Sender: owner-diy_efi
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Reply-To: diy_efi

Hi! 
This is exactly the mail I send some weeks ago.

	Pablo 

------------------- start ---------------
Hi!

I'm new in this list.  I got a degree in Computer Science, and my brother works
as a mechanic.  I'm planning to develop a software to manage and visualize
the data (I/O) to full control the EFI, and everything else that could be 
read from a computer.  But I need information about de EFI, and any 
electronical sensor.  I know it depens on the car, but at least I have to 
try with just one at the beginning.  What I need is:
- protocol of comunication from/to the devices.
- how the data is transmitted from/to the device, as well as description of 
the data to send/receive from/to the device to be read/write from/to the
computer.

I know I'm asking for a lot of information, so anything will help.  Source of
information such as books, internet address, etc will help much.

Thank you!!

Pablo Rebufello
prebuf@fing.edu.uy

URUGUAY - South America

----------------------------------- end ---------------------

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 26 15:36:23 1996
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	for <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu> id LAA27515; Thu, 26 Sep 1996 11:31:17 -0400
Subject: Wires and such
To: diy_efi
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 17:20:58 +0200 (sat)
From: Kalle Pihlajasaari <kalle@device.data.co.za>
In-Reply-To: <m0v6GPd-000VsuC@comm.amtsgi.bc.ca> from "Intec Inoventures Inc." at Sep 26, 96 06:23:00 am
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Hi,

> Incidentally, vinyl coated automotive wire from Wal-Mart or the likes, is
> rated up to 75C.  It is darned tough getting flexible wire with a higher
> temperature rating, short of going to fiberglass insulated oven wire.

Silicon Rubber and Teflon coated wires are also an alternative.

Your local airfield may have a workshop you could call and ask where they
buy their engine compartment wires.  The aircraft stuff is overengineered
on top of over specked.  The wires also usually have a second insulation
layer for mechaniocal protection.

Cheers
-- 
Kalle Pihlajasaari     kalle@data.co.za
Interface Products     Box 15775, Doornfontein, 2028, South Africa
+27 (11) 402-7750      Fax: +27 (11) 402-7751

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 26 15:38:32 1996
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From: Mark Pitts <saxon@zymurgy.org>
To: "'DIY EFI'" <diy_efi>
Subject: RE: Chip operating temperatures
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 17:11:05 +-200
MIME-Version: 1.0
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Thanks for the comment about oven wire, I was wonderin' what to do about =
the temp sender wire that lies accross my cylinder head.. hadnt thought =
of that!

Mark

(who is now happy ;-))


----------
From:  Intec Inoventures Inc.[SMTP:iii@islandnet.com]
Sent:  Thursday, September 26, 1996 3:23 PM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:  Re: Chip operating temperatures

>                                       ...The 68332 chips bought in the =

>group pcb buy were rated 0 deg C to 70 deg C (32 deg F to 158 deg F).  =
I'm
sure=20
>these are ok for prototypes, but is anyone concerned about them lasting =
50-100=20
>k miles in a real environment ?

You may want to check the specs on the 68332.  According to my book, the
MC68332FC is rated for -40C to +85C. =20

While a car left in the hot sun can do serious damage to poor Fido =
(rated at
0 to 40C) locked inside, it is unlikely to get up to +85C.  However, =
less
than -40C in North Overshoe, Saskatchewan is not unlikely.  And when you =
go
to start it up in the morning, the interior is probably colder than the
engine compartment.

Incidentally, vinyl coated automotive wire from Wal-Mart or the likes, =
is
rated up to 75C.  It is darned tough getting flexible wire with a higher
temperature rating, short of going to fiberglass insulated oven wire.

Bob Furber


--------------------------------------------------------------------
    MC68HC16 Embedded Controllers and Software Development Tools    |
              WebPg   http://www.islandnet.com/~iii                 |
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Intec Inoventures Inc.       Phone   604-721-5150                   |
2751 Arbutus Road            Fax         721-4191                   |
Victoria   BC  V8N 5X7                                              |
Canada                                                              |
--------------------------------------------------------------------




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 26 16:27:37 1996
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	id AA843764947; Fri, 27 Sep 96 00:30:50 EST
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 96 00:30:50 EST
From: "Al Grippo" <Al_Grippo_at_~AT-VAP1@cc.atinc.com>
Message-Id: <9608268437.AA843764947@cc.atinc.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re[2]: Chip operating temperatures
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>>You may want to check the specs on the 68332.  According to my book, the
>>MC68332FC is rated for -40C to +85C.  


  You're right about the 68332, as I found out just a few minutes before 
getting this post. However, the SRAM I was planning to buy (from DS) is only 
rated 0 to 70C unless the IND suffix is used, which gives -40C to 85C.

   Al Grippo




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 26 17:54:46 1996
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Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 09:40:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
X-Sender: wright@pioneer.uspto.gov
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Combustion chamber heat
In-Reply-To: <199609260845.BAA10510@desiree.teleport.com>
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On Thu, 26 Sep 1996, talltom wrote:

> 
>   I've noticed a little discrepency here in relation to combustion chambwer
> heat.
> It seems that some say it's necessary to go over rich to cool and prevent
> preignition/detonation. Others say that thermal barrier coatings are the
> neat trick,
> which would make the combustion chamber hotter, and to me more knock prone.

I have no hard facts to back me up, but I would agree that using a 
thermal barrier coating on the pistons/combustion chamber/valves would 
create a situation where detonation/knock would be more likely. Since 
less heat would be abosrbed by the engine, as the flame front progressed 
through the cylinder onthe power stroke, the remaining unburned fuel 
would be heated more rapidly.

I think there would indeed be a penalty in that the spark would ahve to 
be retarded more, and the mixture enriched to prevent this. Another 
alternative of course, is water injection, which I am more and more 
convinced is a good thing for air cooled engines at least, which tend to 
run hotter.

I think, though that you could get away with coating the exhaust and 
intake ports without any penalties. The idea behind using coatings in the 
first place was to reduce heat in the engine and thus extend its life. 
Likewise with the exhaust header. For the intake port, the charge would 
stay a little cooler before entering the chamber. For the exhaust port, 
the exhaust gases would stay hotter, leading to better scavanging at the 
expense of running the exhaust valve hotter.

Everything's a tradeoff, it seems.

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 26 20:25:16 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Wires and such
Sender: owner-diy_efi
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: diy_efi

>Hi,
>
>> Incidentally, vinyl coated automotive wire from Wal-Mart or the likes, is
>> rated up to 75C.  It is darned tough getting flexible wire with a higher
>> temperature rating, short of going to fiberglass insulated oven wire.
>
>Silicon Rubber and Teflon coated wires are also an alternative.
>
>Your local airfield may have a workshop you could call and ask where they
>buy their engine compartment wires.  The aircraft stuff is overengineered
>on top of over specked.  The wires also usually have a second insulation
>layer for mechaniocal protection.

Buy your wire from Newark, Mouser, Digi-Key, etc.  I'd stay away from
the wire from auto parts houses and Wal-Mart -- unless I needed it
that instant.  I'd also buy from any of the above before I'd buy from
Rat-Shack.  [ Rat-Shack's wire, like the rest of their stuff, is
the cheapest construction possible: lo-temp insulation, large strands
(makes it less flexible than wire with more but smaller strands),
and is not plated (bare copper will oxidize, even up under the
insulation).]

The catalogs will list the temp rating of the insulation (generally,
the higher the temp, the stiffer it is).  Be sure the wire is plated
and get the highest/smallest number of strands so it'll be flexible.
** Don't ** use solid wire !!!  It'll break.  Don't drape the wire
across exhaust manifolds, exhaust crossovers, EGR, etc.  Cover the
ends with heat shrink or such to keep crud from wicking up under the
insulation into the wire.

Really ought to avoid crimp connectors.  Should solder all connections.
If you want to use the crimp connectors, buy a quality grade that will
take solder.  Then you can solder them if you want to (many crimp
"fast-on" connectors won't take solder, if they look sorta chrome or
shiny, they probably won't solder.  If a magnet will attract them, they
probably won't take solder.  If they have a dull, solder-looking sheen
to them, and/or are non-magnetic (i.e. made of copper) they'll probably
solder.  Note that the magnetic ones (i.e. steel) will eventually corrode
and rust.




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Thu Sep 26 21:06:15 1996
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          26 Sep 96 21:41 BST
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Message-ID: <175@turbo.win-uk.net>
To: diy_efi, diy_efi
Date: Thu, 26 Sep 1996 21:44:25
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
From: "Brian Warburton, c/o Turbo Systems Ltd" <bwarb@turbo.win-uk.net>
Sender: owner-diy_efi
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: diy_efi

>        It does not usually get much over +40C here so the top end of the
>temp range is not much of a concern. BUT, winter IS comming. It is already
>going down to +3C at night, and -40C is not that unusual.
>
>        Wayne ( I really need to find a more moderate climate ) Braun
>Wayne Braun     Product Support Services       Develcon Electronics

Although ambient might rarely reach 40 degC, I would imagine that
the temperature inside your ECU box/enclosure is well over that.
Just think of the power dissipation from four coil drivers at say
40% dutycycle at 6000 rpm (dwell = 4mS/Wasted-Spark) and say eight
injector drivers at 75% dutycycle at 6000 rpm (Fuel p/w = 15mS/SEFI)
Typically, a 4 cylinder ECU can be sucking up to 10 Amps when the
engine's really revving, I don't have figures to hand for 8 cylinder
systems and of course all these figures depend on coil/injector type
and so on, but we're still talking about passing a lot of current
through the system. 120 watts can have pretty serious heating effects
on the box especially if it's mounted in an area of static airflow.

I would suggest that you would be advised to only use Industrial or
Automotive spec parts where available, especially if your car's
intended for serious day-to-day use. 

Failing that, mounting the ECU in the A/C outlet trunking might
prove advantageous ... :^) 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Brian Warburton,   "Still searching for the perfect curve....."
email: bwarb@turbo.win-uk.net
                               Advanced Automotive Electronics Ltd,
                               Van-Nuys House, Scotlands Drive,
                               Farnham Common, England.  SL2-3ES
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 00:40:03 1996
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From: dzorde@aesprodata.com.au
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	id AA843838759 Fri, 27 Sep 96 08:39:19 
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 96 08:39:19 
Message-Id: <9608278438.AA843838759@afcperth.aesprodata.com.au>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re[2]: Chip operating temperatures
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Reply-To: diy_efi


     Just my few cents worth.  Any of you lot out there ever heard about 
     spaghetti strand (a common name).  Comes in long tubes like 
     heatshrink, except its woven fibreglass and it doesn't shrink.  This 
     is ideal for containing bunches of wire (or a single wire) in hot 
     places (like engine bays).  There is a very noticable temp difference 
     between the inside and outside of the tube when this is used.  Use it 
     with standard automotive wire, you can basically run those wires 
     across the extractors if you want to, and the wires will still 
     survive.  Just a thought, its a lot cheaper than buying oven wire, at 
     least down under.
     
     Dan        dzorde@aesprodata.com.au


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RE: Chip operating temperatures
Author:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu at INTERNET
Date:    9/27/96 1:13 AM


Thanks for the comment about oven wire, I was wonderin' what to do about = 
the temp sender wire that lies accross my cylinder head.. hadnt thought = 
of that!
     
Mark
     
(who is now happy ;-))
     
     
----------
From:  Intec Inoventures Inc.[SMTP:iii@islandnet.com] 
Sent:  Thursday, September 26, 1996 3:23 PM
To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu 
Subject:  Re: Chip operating temperatures
     
>                                       ...The 68332 chips bought in the =
     
>group pcb buy were rated 0 deg C to 70 deg C (32 deg F to 158 deg F).  = 
I'm
sure=20
>these are ok for prototypes, but is anyone concerned about them lasting = 
50-100=20
>k miles in a real environment ?
     
You may want to check the specs on the 68332.  According to my book, the 
MC68332FC is rated for -40C to +85C. =20
     
While a car left in the hot sun can do serious damage to poor Fido = 
(rated at
0 to 40C) locked inside, it is unlikely to get up to +85C.  However, = 
less
than -40C in North Overshoe, Saskatchewan is not unlikely.  And when you = 
go
to start it up in the morning, the interior is probably colder than the 
engine compartment.
     
Incidentally, vinyl coated automotive wire from Wal-Mart or the likes, = 
is
rated up to 75C.  It is darned tough getting flexible wire with a higher 
temperature rating, short of going to fiberglass insulated oven wire.
     
Bob Furber
     
     
--------------------------------------------------------------------
    MC68HC16 Embedded Controllers and Software Development Tools    |
              WebPg   http://www.islandnet.com/~iii                 |
-------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Intec Inoventures Inc.       Phone   604-721-5150                   | 
2751 Arbutus Road            Fax         721-4191                   | 
Victoria   BC  V8N 5X7                                              | 
Canada                                                              | 
--------------------------------------------------------------------
     
     
     

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 03:23:49 1996
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From: iii@islandnet.com (Intec Inoventures Inc.)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Chip operating temperatures
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>  You're right about the 68332, as I found out just a few minutes before 
>getting this post. However, the SRAM I was planning to buy (from DS) is only 
>rated 0 to 70C unless the IND suffix is used, which gives -40C to 85C.

You might want to consider buying SMOS SRAM, available from Future and a
number of other suppliers.  The SRM20100LC70 (128K x 8) SRAMs that we use in
their plain vanilla flavour are rated at -40C to +85C and they are
competitively priced.  There may be other similarly rated plain vanilla SRAMs.

Bfn,

Bob Furber

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Intec Inoventures Inc.       Phone   604-721-5150                   |
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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 05:05:40 1996
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From: Shaun Brady <sbrady@pacific.pacific.net>
Subject: Re: Combustion chamber heat
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At 09:40 AM 9/26/96 -0400, you wrote:
>On Thu, 26 Sep 1996, talltom wrote:
>
>> 
>>   I've noticed a little discrepency here in relation to combustion chambwer
>> heat.
>> It seems that some say it's necessary to go over rich to cool and prevent
>> preignition/detonation. Others say that thermal barrier coatings are the
>> neat trick,
>> which would make the combustion chamber hotter, and to me more knock prone.
>
>I have no hard facts to back me up, but I would agree that using a 
>thermal barrier coating on the pistons/combustion chamber/valves would 
>create a situation where detonation/knock would be more likely. Since 
>less heat would be abosrbed by the engine, as the flame front progressed 
>through the cylinder onthe power stroke, the remaining unburned fuel 
>would be heated more rapidly.
>
Unforutunately, current practice in everything from Formula 1 to stationary
diesels refutes this reasoning.

My seat of the pants rationalization is that the coatings reduce the
likelyhood of hotspots and thus reduce the likelyhood of detonation, or
don't affect the ignition event at all and enhance the expansion.

I use thermally reflective coatings in my motorcycle racing engine, but
didn't have a good baseline prior to applying them and don't have hard
numbers on the improvement.  Vizard feels that they are worth a 5-10% power
improvement.  The coatings are relatively cheap(about $15 per surface) when
compared to what must be spent for similar improvements.  They are more of a
messy pain in the ass & scheduling hassle than an expense really.  I can't
think of another modification (other than electronic engine management) that
improves both power and economy in equal measure.

I'm also from the school of thought that the amount of ignition advance
required for max power is a direct reflection on the efficiency of the
combustion chamber.  34-36 degrees is a pretty typical number for an
amazingly wide range of applications.  Max power at 32 degrees would
indicate to me that trying to improve the combustion efficiency would be a
waste of time.  40 degrees would suggest the chamber is pretty pathetic.
Mismatches between dynamic compression ratios and fuel octane will skew
this, of course.  If the combustion chamber is working well, and the fuel is
matched to the application, power will fall off several degrees before
detonation.  These numbers are based on working with naturally aspirated
motors with power peaks from 5000 to 12000 rpm and specific outputs from
1-2.5 hp/cid.

These are just my generalizations based on a narrow range of experiences
from a huge range of possibilities, so don't take them too seriously. Be
carefull, detonation will kill a motor far faster than anything you can do
with the fuel curve.

SBrady


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 06:57:17 1996
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From: Krister Wikstrom <kwi@mamma.icl.fi>
To: "'DIY_EFI'" <DIY_EFI>
Subject: RE:Re: Chip operating temperatures
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 09:47:32 +0200
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>Just think of the power dissipation from four coil drivers at say
>40% dutycycle at 6000 rpm (dwell =3D 4mS/Wasted-Spark) and say eight
>injector drivers at 75% dutycycle at 6000 rpm (Fuel p/w =3D 15mS/SEFI)
>Typically, a 4 cylinder ECU can be sucking up to 10 Amps when the
>engine's really revving, I don't have figures to hand for 8 cylinder
>systems and of course all these figures depend on coil/injector type
>and so on, but we're still talking about passing a lot of current
>through the system. 120 watts can have pretty serious heating effects
>on the box especially if it's mounted in an area of static airflow.

 =20
I think the 120W is not dissipated at the driver location, most goes to =
the injectors. If the driver sinks 10A
and drops maybe 0.6V, the "warming" power is 6W - right? Using some low =
RDSon MOSFETs etc. may have even lower voltage drop and power =
dissipation.

I've been repairing some (low cost) car audio stuff, and there seems to =
be a lot of 0-70 C components used. This
is a matter of cost, and those seem to survive/work at least on cold. On =
the other hand, they _did_ broke down...
(usually by too low speaker impedance or shorts, cheap stuff seem to =
have no good protection circuits).


  Krister Wikstrom
  kwi@mamma.icl.fi

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 08:00:50 1996
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Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 09:47:58 +0200
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From: walter.kaufmann@sd.id.ethz.ch (Walter Kaufmann)
Subject: AC Delco
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Hi!

Someone on the list works by AC Delco. I have some question.... Please send
me the mailaddress.

Thanks
Walter



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 09:33:12 1996
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Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 19:25:07 +1100
From: Tim Willis <tcw@now.inia.net.au>
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Subject: Bosch L-jetronic problems
References: <01BBABD0.C9A372A0@speed.demon.nl>
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Hi all,

I am in need of info on when and how the cold start injector works on the
Bosch L-jetronic, as used in my Rover 3500 SD1.  I have just completed an
engine rebuild and there is a fairly bad miss while the engine is cold, it
is there through the rev range.  Does the cold start only work once while
the starter is activated or does it continue to pulse until temperature 
rises to a certain point.

There is what appears to be some sort of air bypass, aluminium about 2
inches by 4 inches, and two 1/2 inch ID hoses (can't remember shere they 
connect), what is it and how does it operate.

I am an electrical/computer engineer so the more technical the better.

I am trying to sort this out this weekend so if anyone can help quickly
it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for any help.


Regards


Tim Willis
Newcastle, Australia
tcw@now.inia.net.au


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 12:39:15 1996
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From: "David M Parrish" <dmp@bmesun1.MCG.EDU>
To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 08:25:08 +0000
Subject: Re: Wires and such
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> From:          cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)

> Buy your wire from Newark, Mouser, Digi-Key, etc.  I'd stay away from
> the wire from auto parts houses and Wal-Mart -- unless I needed it

It's always a good idea to buy quality wire. In aircraft, the norm 
now is teflon covered wire with fine strands plated with either tin 
or silver. Perfect for engine compartments, since teflon melts at 
such a high temperature and won't burn.

> The catalogs will list the temp rating of the insulation (generally,
> the higher the temp, the stiffer it is).  Be sure the wire is plated
> and get the highest/smallest number of strands so it'll be flexible.
> ** Don't ** use solid wire !!!  It'll break.  Don't drape the wire
> across exhaust manifolds, exhaust crossovers, EGR, etc.  Cover the
> ends with heat shrink or such to keep crud from wicking up under the
> insulation into the wire.

Good advice.

> Really ought to avoid crimp connectors.  Should solder all connections.

Have to draw the line here. In aircraft, which usually have higher
vibration levels than cars and electrical failures are _much_ 
more serious, crimped connections are the norm. The problem with 
soldered connections is the narrow trasition point from solder to 
free strands. At that point, the wire can't flex very well, so 
vibration tends to crack the strands. The point with crimp connectors 
is to use high quality connectors (like Amp) and a good crimping 
tool.

---
David Parrish
Don't ask how much it
costs to wire an airplane...

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 12:54:17 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Chip operating temperatures
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>
>     Just my few cents worth.  Any of you lot out there ever heard about 
>     spaghetti strand (a common name).  Comes in long tubes like 
>     heatshrink, except its woven fibreglass and it doesn't shrink.  This 
>     is ideal for containing bunches of wire (or a single wire) in hot

In the electronics industry that's called 'spaghetti' tubing.  It was
around long before the shrinkable variety and it comes in many varieties,
including the fiberglass type you speak of.  In the Newark catalog it's
listed in the index under 'insulating tubing'.  Also called sleeving.
Note that the wires will still get hot, and the insulation may still
melt, so if there's more than one wire in the tubing, they may melt
together and short out.  The teflon tubing is good to 260 C (500 F);
the PVC to 105 C (220 F); the fiberglass doesn't have a rating (in
the Newark cat).

The split polyethylene tubing is rated to 80 C (175 F).

There's lots of heat shrink out there, too.  Some polyolefin (electron
irradiated polyethylene, tougher, higher temp resistance) shrinkable
is rated to 135 C (275 F); kynar to 175 C (350 F); the typical PVC is
rated to 105 C (220 F).

Might try making something to suspend wiring above or away from
real hot stuff -- like maybe use spark plug wire standoff or such.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 12:54:17 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Combustion chamber heat
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On Thu, 26 Sep 1996, Shaun Brady wrote:

> I use thermally reflective coatings in my motorcycle racing engine, but
> didn't have a good baseline prior to applying them and don't have hard
> numbers on the improvement.  

Is your motorcycle engine air cooled? If so, did you run into problems 
with the larger expansion/contraction of air cooled's parts?

Vizard feels that they are worth a 5-10% power
> improvement.  The coatings are relatively cheap(about $15 per surface) when
> compared to what must be spent for similar improvements.  

Can you give more details of exactly what brand and type of coatings you 
used? Were they Jet Hot, or ceramic, or what?

Thanks for your description of your actual experiences with coatings. I'm 
interested in applying them to my 914 someday, so I'm willing to learn of 
other's experiences.

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 13:07:07 1996
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From: "Mike Fahrion" <mfahrion@bb-elec.com>
Organization: B&B Electronics Mfg. Co.
To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 08:02:37 +0000
Subject: Re: Bosch L-jetronic problems
Priority: normal
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Reply-To: diy_efi

The "Bosch Automotive Electrical Systems" handbook indicates that if 
you have a L-jetronic Cold-start valve it is limited by a "Thermo-time switch" 
which is an electrically heated bimetal switch controlled via the 
ignition and starting switch.  "During an actual cold start, the heat 
generated by the built-in heating winding is mainly responsible for 
the 'on' period (switch-off, for instance, at -20 deg C after approx 
7.5s)..."

Sounds to me that if your problem is continuing past 10 seconds or
so that the cold start circuit isn't the problem, but the warm-up
phase is. Information for this 1-2 minutes of enrichment comes from
the temperature sensor.

This is all from the handbook - not first hand experience.

Good Luck
-mike

> Hi all,
> 
> I am in need of info on when and how the cold start injector works on the
> Bosch L-jetronic, as used in my Rover 3500 SD1.  I have just completed an
> engine rebuild and there is a fairly bad miss while the engine is cold, it
> is there through the rev range.  Does the cold start only work once while
> the starter is activated or does it continue to pulse until temperature 
> rises to a certain point.
> 
> There is what appears to be some sort of air bypass, aluminium about 2
> inches by 4 inches, and two 1/2 inch ID hoses (can't remember shere they 
> connect), what is it and how does it operate.
> 
> I am an electrical/computer engineer so the more technical the better.
> 
> I am trying to sort this out this weekend so if anyone can help quickly
> it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks for any help.
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> 
> Tim Willis
> Newcastle, Australia
> tcw@now.inia.net.au
> 
> 
> 
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Mike Fahrion                mfahrion@bb-elec.com      http://www.bb-elec.com/
B&B Electronics Mfg Co      ph.(815) 433-5100 ext.215    fax (815) 434-7094 
707 Dayton Road                 PO Box 1040                  Ottawa IL 61350
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 14:02:33 1996
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To: nail@swings.com
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: RE: 351W CARBED ENGINE PRO
Cc: diy_efi, fordnatics@lists.best.com, eec-iv <dibble@hagar.ph.utexas.edu>
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EGO ==>> exhaust gas oxygen sensor.  Unless your car is over, say,
20 years old, it's probably got one.  If you're still using your
computer (engine controller), the EGO's being used by that,
so it may be difficult to use as an indicator.  But if you're
carburetted ... I don't think your controller is doing anything
(if it's still controlling your timing, you may have other problems).

Otherwise, the EGO will be in your exhaust pipe somewhere pretty
close to the exhaust manifold.  If it has more that two wires,
it has an internal heater to bring it up to temperature (only works
when real hot!).  You can read about the EGO in any book on emissions
stuff.  Stoichiometric means all of whatever is put into a chemical
reaction us used up -- no left overs.  So, for gasoline, a ratio
of 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel is the exact ratio where there
is the least unburnt fuel -- least noxious byproducts.  It is
also where newer 3-stage cats work -- they don't work at all off
stoich.  But, power is made with more fuel than stoich (i.e.
A/F > 14.7:1); and economy is made with less fuel (A/F > 14.7:1).
The EGO's output is a voltage function inversely related to the
amount of oxygen in the exhaust compared to the amount of oxygen
in the outside air around it.  If you're running leaner (more O2)
the voltage is lower.  Richer = higher output voltage.  Stoich
(14.7:1 A:F ratio) is about .45 - .5 volts.  The output is not
linear and steeply changes after leaving stoich, but people use
it all the time to help tune their machines.  It's output is "high
impedance".  That means it produces very little current and any
resistive loading will cause it to produce lower voltages, resulting
in erroneous readings.

So, to use it, you must have a meter with an input impedance greater
than 1 megohm.  Every digital meter I know of has in input Z
(Z is electronics term for impedance) of 10 megohms (some are 11).
Analog meters, unless they have internal amplifiers, are rated in
"ohms per volt".  A Simpson 260 is rated at 20,000 ohms/volt.  To
find out it's input Z, multiply the switch (attenuator) position
by the ohms/volts.  So, on the 10 volt scale, a 20,000 ohm/volt
meter would have in input Z of 20,000 * 10 = 200 thousand ohms.
That means an analog meter won't do.


Steve wrote:
>Tell me more about the projection, if you don't mind..

What do you want to know?

> > I have a DPM (digital panel meter) measuring the output of my EGO.
> > You can get one from Hosfelt Electronics: [800-524-6464 (FAX 
> > 800-524-5414)
> > $14.95, their part number 39-165] or use any digital voltmeter or
> > analog meter with an input impedance of 10 megohms or so.  I 
> > connected
>
>Where is the EGO? built into the car?
>
>The DPM is $14.95, and it connects to your EGO?
>
> > This's probably not it, but the EGO helps set the system up.  Look
> > for about .5 volts for cruise (that's stoichiometric: 14.7:1 A:F
> > ratio).  Up to about .8 or 1 volt for power and maybe down to
> > about .2 or so for deceleration.

[snip]


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 14:16:18 1996
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Subject: Re: Bosch L-jetronic problems
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Tim Willis wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I am in need of info on when and how the cold start injector works on the
> Bosch L-jetronic, as used in my Rover 3500 SD1.  I have just completed an
> engine rebuild and there is a fairly bad miss while the engine is cold, it
> is there through the rev range.  Does the cold start only work once while
> the starter is activated or does it continue to pulse until temperature
> rises to a certain point.

On the Japanese L-Jetronics, and I'd presume Bosch to be similar, the cold 
start injector only opens when the block temp sensor is below something like 65 
deg. F, and the starter is engaged.  And, further, there's a bimetallic switch 
in series between the starter switch power and the cold-start input line, so 
that if the engine doesn't fire after several seconds of cranking, that input 
line shuts off, to prevent flooding.  The only time the cold-start injector 
should give any problem after the engine's started is if it's leaking.  When I 
worked for Toyota, we saw intermittent missing after a couple of years of 
running which had nothing to do with the injection system--all related back to 
how fuel was injected--created some carbon deposits on the valves and seats.  
Clean the valves and it was okay.  On this, might want to check the temp sensor 
in the block and see what its resistance is (should be high--25-30K ohms, I 
think), and check the cold-start for proper flow and resistance to leakage when 
the fuel system is pressurized.  
 
> There is what appears to be some sort of air bypass, aluminium about 2
> inches by 4 inches, and two 1/2 inch ID hoses (can't remember shere they
> connect), what is it and how does it operate.

That would probably be the idle air-bypass.  Little stepper motor turns a 
sliding plate in the orifice to control bypass air, and therefore control idle 
speed.

-- 
My other Triumph doesn't run, either....


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 14:49:19 1996
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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: RE:Re: Chip operating temperatures
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somebody wrote:
>>Just think of the power dissipation from four coil drivers at say
>>40% dutycycle at 6000 rpm (dwell = 4mS/Wasted-Spark) and say eight
>>injector drivers at 75% dutycycle at 6000 rpm (Fuel p/w = 15mS/SEFI)
>>Typically, a 4 cylinder ECU can be sucking up to 10 Amps when the
>>engine's really revving, I don't have figures to hand for 8 cylinder
>>systems and of course all these figures depend on coil/injector type
>>and so on, but we're still talking about passing a lot of current
>>through the system. 120 watts can have pretty serious heating effects
>>on the box especially if it's mounted in an area of static airflow.

Krister Wikstrom <kwi@mamma.icl.fi> replied:
>I think the 120W is not dissipated at the driver location, most goes to the
injectors. If the driver sinks 10A
>and drops maybe 0.6V, the "warming" power is 6W - right? Using some low
RDSon MOSFETs etc. may have even lower voltage drop and power dissipation.
>
An' then I says:

I've not been reading this thread real thoroughly so I missed the
original post.  A switch dissipates *NO* power, but a transistor
is not a perfect switch.  An injector may take an ampere pulse, but
I think their holding current is less (don't know about this).
Like Kris said, assuming 1 amp: any good switching power transistor
will have a VCE(sat) (that's the voltage across it when it's ON) of
less than 1 volt, maybe .3 to .6 volts.  Switching FET might be less.
Anyway: the power dissipated at 1 amp would be 1 amp times .6 volts
or 600 milliwatts.  If one driver is pulsing several injectors,
the power would be proportionally higher.  The *good* thing about
this is that those transistors can be bolted to the case and the
heat will mostly go outside.  It's the VLSI and TTL chips that
get hot and have no direct path to the outside for that heat.
They probably do more to raise the internal temp than anything else.



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 14:54:18 1996
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Subject: Re: AC Delco
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>Hi!
>
>Someone on the list works by AC Delco. I have some question.... Please send
>me the mailaddress.
>
>Thanks
>Walter

Walter, I have some addresses -- but your e:mail addr doesn't work
for me??

Tom Cloud <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 15:40:21 1996
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From: "Mike Fahrion" <mfahrion@bb-elec.com>
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To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 10:39:17 +0000
Subject: Checking fuel pressure?
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Sorry for the rather stupid question but....

Can a regular tire pressure gauge be used to check fuel pressure at 
the shraeder(sp?) valve or is a special guage required.  Was 
thinking/hoping that the tire gauge would work, at least once, maybe 
fuel would disolve its seal.

TIA
-mike

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 16:46:18 1996
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To: Dan Stokes <dstokes@mail.coin.missouri.edu>
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: EEC IV reprogramming
Cc: diy_efi, fordnatics@lists.best.com, eec-iv <dibble@hagar.ph.utexas.edu>,
        Cliff Koch <koch@cae.cig.mot.com>,
        Donald Whisnant <dewhisna@ix.netcom.com>, Sven Pruett <vanir@gnn.com>,
        James Pearl <jvp@qsi.com>, Jonathan Lloyd <john@anergy.demon.co.uk>,
        George Najarian <najay@deltanet.com>, James Weiler <james@brc.ubc.ca>,
        Bradford Peterson <bp3084m@tmp.medtronic.com>,
        Todd King <Todd_King@ccm.co.intel.com>,
        Steve Sadler <ssadler@odyline.com>,
        "Dr. Shidel; BA, BS, MS, PhD" <shidel@suntan.eng.usf.edu>,
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        Terry Fair <tfair@bjservices.com>, Dave Compton <dcompton@JNPCS.COM>,
        Jody Shapiro <jshapiro@Token.Net>, Alex Cazin <acazin@interlog.com>,
        Joe Aubertin <ja95ad@badger.ac.BrockU.CA>
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Dan, I decided to send this to ebberbuddy.  I think it's interesting:
(my erudite thoughts are sprinkled here and there).

>On Thu, 26 Sep 1996, tom cloud wrote:
>
>       ............................
>> 
>> >  Q:  are you wanting to know the 8061 opcodes because you would like to 
>> >      change the way the eec handles the information it receives?   ..
>> >  ... or do you just want the eec to 'respond' differently to a set of 
>> >      inputs?     
>> >
>> >      if you answer is 'yes' to the second maybe i can provide a shred of 
>> >      information.
>> >
>> 
>> Probably the first -- but you do the best you can.  I think all of us
>> would like to know enough to completely modify the unit.  I think
>> everything is there: sensors and outputs, just needs a little TLC
>> from the owner to get what he wants.  Then we will get into how
>> to measure and interpret the changes ??
>> 
>> But, it's probably enough (for a while) to be able to change some
>> of the tables.  For one thing, if one could do this, he could
>> use used EEC's from the junk yard on any motor.
>
>if this is your goal you could probably get by with two things
>
>1) right spark at the right time
>2) proper pulsewidth from the injectors
>
>it happens that the eec gets 1 and only 1 timing signal from the tfi 
>unit.  it is called the pip (Profile Ignition Pickup ??).  on a 4 cyl the 
>output of the pip is 45 - 55Hz @ 1000 RPM, on a 6 cyl the output of the 
>pip is 45 - 55Hz @ 1000 RPM, and finally on an 8cyl the output (and 
>you guessed it) is 45 - 55Hz @ 1000RPM (oh: the duty cycle on all of these 
>should be 50%) these numbers are true for all ford engines except the 
>SEFI 8cyl (the SEFI 6 cylinders are the same.  the 8 cyl must need 
>tighter timing indexes)
>
>it also happens that the return (from the eec) to the tfi module (the 
>SPOUT or SPark OUT) that sets the timing from the computer (this is the 
>wire you pull before you set your base timing) has the exact same 
>specifications as the pip.  
>what i gleened from this is that the pip does 2 things:
>1) it lets the eec know how fast the engine is turning (frequency alone)
>2) it gives a base signal to be sent back to the tfi after being delayed 
>   a bit.  this delay or phase change (realitive to the pip) is what lets
>   the eec control timing, but indirectly, the tfi is doing _most_ of the 
>   work.
>
>mike wesley has said ..
>    "you'll see that ford does not use the CPU as it was designed (to be 
>    used?)   . . . they waste so much CPU it's pitiful"
>
>i'm betting he's refering to the fact that the CPU is just looking up a 
>bunch of tables. (remember superchips .. just tables no code)
>the cpu only has to look up injector "on time" and SPOUT "phase shift" 
>for any certain rpm, mass air, and engine temperature and its job is 
>done.  add on a few more bells and whistles and its done.  A real 
>programmer would use the CPU to "compute" these outputs not look them up.
>
>moral is: if you want to make your own controller (and i'm interested) 
>all you have to do is figure out the "TFI secret" and half your job is 
>done.  the injector pulsing is a piece of cake compared to trying to fire 
>a spark at the proper time ... every time. 
>
> oops.  back to your statement:
>
>i think you CAN use any eec with any other engine (all the fuel injectors 
>are in banks of two ... choose the proper size and fuel pressure ... pick 
>the proper TFI ( is there a difference??)  and adjust for wiring 
>differences.. <;-)
>
>i'm planning to 'try' this  my self.  i have a 2.3L merkur and am 
>planning to swap a 2.9 liter ... and add a turbo.  the problem i faced 
>was that the 2.3 had a neat little "boost solenide??" that the eec would 
>deactivate when detonation was encountered.  a very useful output, but 
>nothing of the same on any other eec controller .. not to mention the 2.9 
>doesn't even have a knock sensor.  solution: use the 2.3 computer ... i 
>was stunned when all the "problems" i had imagined weren't actually 
>there.  the only drawback now is that the 2.3 controller has "peak and 
>hold" injectors in banks of 2.  If i was to hook up the injectors (lets 
>say peak and hold) in banks of 3 instead of 2, would the eec still 
>provide the proper current to each injector, or just provide the same old 
>current . . . I don't know)
> 
>
>.........................................
>
>
>
>> 
>> How does Mike Wesley's "calibrator" work?  It supposedly plugs into
>> a "calibration" port on the side of the EEC which allows switching
>> out the program memory and using external memory (I may be wrong
>> on this??).
>> 
>it sounds like a "super chip" fpga mapping to an eeprom that you can 
>program by hooking up you computer com port.  i'm sure it doesn't
>reprogram the 8061, but i don't know :)
>
>later - 
>
>> >-dan "i want control" stokes

What's a TFI ??  I assume it's "tuned fuel injection" not "taco f**t
implosion"?

I'd like to know if Mikes's doo-dad will work with SEFI.  If he's done
what he seems to have done, all I gotta do is fiddle with his deal.
I think there's a market (albeit small) of us wackos that are technical
enough to really be able to play with the controller at the software
level -- given immortality and fort knox.  So, if Mike or someone could
make a box and "open architecture" a'la the IBM-PC, there would surely
grow a humonguous cult following.  I think Ford otta look at the IBM /
MAC debacle and consider making their systems easier to hack.

I'd like to put SEFI in, not 'cause it's good for power, but because
it's there!

Tom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 16:46:20 1996
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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Wires and such
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        [ snip ]

>> Really ought to avoid crimp connectors.  Should solder all connections.
>
>Have to draw the line here. In aircraft, which usually have higher
>vibration levels than cars and electrical failures are _much_ 
>more serious, crimped connections are the norm. The problem with 
>soldered connections is the narrow trasition point from solder to 
>free strands. At that point, the wire can't flex very well, so 
>vibration tends to crack the strands. The point with crimp connectors 
>is to use high quality connectors (like Amp) and a good crimping 
>tool.
>
>---
>David Parrish
>Don't ask how much it
>costs to wire an airplane...

Okay, you said it, but did anyone get it?? If you're gonna crimp -- and
want it to be reliable -- hafta use the right tool!!  Trust me, it's
not the Champ or Klein you gots in your tool box.  A good tool that
works on most crimp-ons costs between $35 and $50.  Snap-ON sells one
(Forget who really makes it).



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 16:47:33 1996
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From: Ron Madurski <rmadursk@galaxy.galstar.com>
Message-Id: <199609271645.LAA02080@galaxy.galstar.com>
Subject: Re: Bosch L-jetronic problems
To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 11:45:58 -0500 (CDT)
In-Reply-To: <324B8F63.3F19@now.inia.net.au> from "Tim Willis" at Sep 27, 96 07:25:07 pm
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:
:
:Hi all,
:
:I am in need of info on when and how the cold start injector works on the
:Bosch L-jetronic, as used in my Rover 3500 SD1.  I have just completed an
:engine rebuild and there is a fairly bad miss while the engine is cold, it
:is there through the rev range.  Does the cold start only work once while
:the starter is activated or does it continue to pulse until temperature 
:rises to a certain point.

I think that once the car starts it is off.

:
:There is what appears to be some sort of air bypass, aluminium about 2
:inches by 4 inches, and two 1/2 inch ID hoses (can't remember shere they 
:connect), what is it and how does it operate.

I think it controls the amount of air allowed when the throttle plate is
closed.  

Check to make sure that your injectors are all firing.  I had this
problem on my old Volvo 240 (LH-Jetronic).  When it was cold the
injectors fired very erratically and it ran like crap until it warmed
up.  It took a new brain to make it work properly.  Apparently 2 of the
connectors which look identical and connect identically had been swapped
which is an instant brain fry.  So if the brain is dead make SURE that
the wires are in the right locations.

:
:I am an electrical/computer engineer so the more technical the better.

I'm not so you get what you pay for...

:
:I am trying to sort this out this weekend so if anyone can help quickly
:it would be greatly appreciated.

You can get those brains used from several places, don't buy a new one.

:
:Thanks for any help.
:
:
:Regards
:
:
:Tim Willis
:Newcastle, Australia
:tcw@now.inia.net.au
:
:


-- 
Ron Madurski      
rmadursk@galaxy.galstar.com

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From: "Mike Fahrion" <mfahrion@bb-elec.com>
Organization: B&B Electronics Mfg. Co.
To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 12:02:09 +0000
Subject: Checking fuel pressure?
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Sorry for the rather stupid question but....

Can a regular tire pressure gauge be used to check fuel pressure at 
the shraeder(sp?) valve or is a special guage required.  Was 
thinking/hoping that the tire gauge would work, at least once, maybe 
fuel would disolve its seal.

TIA
-mike

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 16:58:17 1996
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From: "Mike Fahrion" <mfahrion@bb-elec.com>
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To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 12:02:09 +0000
Subject: Checking fuel pressure?
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Sorry for the rather stupid question but....

Can a regular tire pressure gauge be used to check fuel pressure at 
the shraeder(sp?) valve or is a special guage required.  Was 
thinking/hoping that the tire gauge would work, at least once, maybe 
fuel would disolve its seal.

TIA
-mike

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 17:18:47 1996
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Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 13:09:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: Joe Aubertin <ja95ad@badger.ac.BrockU.CA>
To: tom cloud <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>
cc: Dan Stokes <dstokes@mail.coin.missouri.edu>, diy_efi,
        fordnatics@lists.best.com, eec-iv <dibble@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>,
        Cliff Koch <koch@cae.cig.mot.com>,
        Donald Whisnant <dewhisna@ix.netcom.com>, Sven Pruett <vanir@gnn.com>,
        James Pearl <jvp@qsi.com>, Jonathan Lloyd <john@anergy.demon.co.uk>,
        George Najarian <najay@deltanet.com>, James Weiler <james@brc.ubc.ca>,
        Bradford Peterson <bp3084m@tmp.medtronic.com>,
        Todd King <Todd_King@ccm.co.intel.com>,
        Steve Sadler <ssadler@odyline.com>,
        "Dr. Shidel; BA, BS, MS, PhD" <shidel@suntan.eng.usf.edu>,
        Pat <pdonleycott@vnet.ibm.com>, Josh <bozak@newworld.bridge.net>,
        Gary Graham <GEGnTx@aol.com>, Craig Eid <craige@tiger.sr.hp.com>,
        Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>,
        Steve Sadler <ssadler@bbs.odyline.com>,
        Terry Fair <tfair@bjservices.com>, Dave Compton <dcompton@JNPCS.COM>,
        Jody Shapiro <jshapiro@Token.Net>, Alex Cazin <acazin@interlog.com>
Subject: Re: EEC IV reprogramming
In-Reply-To: <9609271642.AA31192@hagar.ph.utexas.edu>
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On Fri, 27 Sep 1996, tom cloud wrote:

> Dan, I decided to send this to ebberbuddy.  I think it's interesting:
> (my erudite thoughts are sprinkled here and there).
> 
> What's a TFI ??  I assume it's "tuned fuel injection" not "taco f**t
> implosion"?
Thick Film Ignition module.
Also i find this thread VERY interesting as i want MORE CONTROL also.

Keep the info flowing :)

Joe AUbertin
'88 MGT
> 
> I'd like to know if Mikes's doo-dad will work with SEFI.  If he's done
> what he seems to have done, all I gotta do is fiddle with his deal.
> I think there's a market (albeit small) of us wackos that are technical
> enough to really be able to play with the controller at the software
> level -- given immortality and fort knox.  So, if Mike or someone could
> make a box and "open architecture" a'la the IBM-PC, there would surely
> grow a humonguous cult following.  I think Ford otta look at the IBM /
> MAC debacle and consider making their systems easier to hack.
> 
> I'd like to put SEFI in, not 'cause it's good for power, but because
> it's there!
> 
> Tom
> 

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 19:28:50 1996
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Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 13:14:24 -0600 (MDT)
From: Steve Ciciora <scicior@uswest.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Wires and such
In-Reply-To: <9609271639.AA31161@hagar.ph.utexas.edu>
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> 
> Okay, you said it, but did anyone get it?? If you're gonna crimp -- and
> want it to be reliable -- hafta use the right tool!!  Trust me, it's
> not the Champ or Klein you gots in your tool box.  A good tool that
> works on most crimp-ons costs between $35 and $50.  Snap-ON sells one
> (Forget who really makes it).
> 

I once had to buy a mil-spec crimper to crimp a PTO6A-14-12C bendix 
connector to get power from a ER-2 (U-2) spy plane... I believe
the crimper ran about $300!  There is a difference in aircraft
crimp connectors and automotive crimp connectors...
- Steven Ciciora


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 19:40:25 1996
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From: "Mike Fahrion" <mfahrion@bb-elec.com>
Organization: B&B Electronics Mfg. Co.
To: diy_efi
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 14:38:10 +0000
Subject: General EFI information Q
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Can anyone recommend a good source of basic information on EFI
systems in US cars?  I just finished reading the Bosch Automotive
Electric/Electronics Systems handbook and would love to find a
similar source of info on GM and Ford systems.

Just a wee bit smarter than yesterday....
-mike
mfahrion@bb-elec.com

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 20:17:38 1996
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To: diy_efi, fordnatics@lists.best.com
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: EEC IV reprogramming *** [THE LIST] ***
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Man, did I stir sumpin up or what?  Lots of people seem to be interested.

Here is my current list of who I've found that are specifically interested
in EEC-IV (or has offered an opinion).  None of these has said they want out.
I don't know which of these is getting duplicate postings because they are
on diy_efi or FordNatics -- or both.

I would like to think that all of you would subscribe to diy_efi??  I
don't want to start a new list -- don't know how, don't wanna know how.
I just wanna be able to fiddle with my Fords !! (Just like the rest of
you.)

I teach a class where students have to build a project (including
a simple PCB).  I can always tell who has experience -- the guy that
wants to lay out a PCB or design a circuit doesn't have any.  If he did,
he'd know how time intensive it is and that a 3-1/2 month semester
is too short (some folks do pull it off, though -- takes real intestinal
fortitude).  Well, I'd like to know all about the EEC.  I know that if
I had all the tools: code, assembler, C++ compiler, debugger, logic
analyzer, 'scope, EPROM burner, computer, tools, and money (and I have
all of those -- except for the code, assembler, debugger and money),
I still wouldn't have the time.  Seems like Mike's doo-dad is the best
deal for the money -- if we could only get one.  Isn't a real problem
for me, though, since I'm not really quite ready for it just yet anyway.

Josh <bozak@newworld.bridge.net>
Alex Cazin <acazin@interlog.com>
Derek Deeter <derek_deeter@MENTORG.COM>
Tom Cloud <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>
Dave Compton <dcompton@jnpcs.com>
Jim Dibble <dibble@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>
Pat <pdonleycott@vnet.ibm.com>
Craig Eid <craige@tiger.sr.hp.com>
Terry Fair <tfair@bjservices.com>
Gary Graham <GEGnTx@aol.com>
Todd King <Todd_King@ccm.co.intel.com>
Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>
Cliff Koch <koch@cae.cig.mot.com>
Jonathan Lloyd <john@anergy.demon.co.uk>
George Najarian <najay@deltanet.com>
Bob Nell <bnell@utk.edu>
James Pearl <jvp@qsi.com>
Bradford Peterson <bp3084m@tmp.medtronic.com>
Sven Pruett <vanir@gnn.com>
Eric Riggert <riggert@nb.rockwell.com>
Steve Sadler <ssadler@odyline.com>
Jody Shapiro <jshapiro@token.net>
"Dr. Shidel; BA, BS, MS, PhD" <shidel@suntan.eng.usf.edu>
Dan Stokes <dstokes@mail.coin.missouri.edu>
James Weiler <james@brc.ubc.ca>
Donald Whisnant <dewhisna@ix.netcom.com>
Travis Willis <svt@starlink.com>

Thanks,
Tom Cloud


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Fri Sep 27 23:26:49 1996
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From: "Johnny" <allnight@everett.net>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Wires and such
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 16:17:50 -0700
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AMP makes a pretty good one for about 80 bucks. It comes with one set of
dies for your regular "car type" crimp connectors and many other die sets
are available, like for BNC's etc. It pays to use "real" connectors too.
The AMP connectors give good results, and they make just about any
connector you can think of.

Like David said, soldering don't cut it when you are talking about wires
that move around. Even wires that attach to a circuit board are (gasp)
wrapped, not soldered, when used in high vibration environments.

Once you have used a real crimper on real connectors... well, the next time
you are at Al's and you see that glorious $6.95 connector kit with the
crimper and the the connectors you will enjoy snickering as you pass by. If
you want a real good laugh, just ask the doofass behind the counter "hey,
where do you keep the real crimpers".

-j-

----------
> From: Steve Ciciora <scicior@uswest.com>
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: Wires and such
> Date: Friday, September 27, 1996 12:14 PM
> 
> > 
> > Okay, you said it, but did anyone get it?? If you're gonna crimp -- and
> > want it to be reliable -- hafta use the right tool!!  Trust me, it's
> > not the Champ or Klein you gots in your tool box.  A good tool that
> > works on most crimp-ons costs between $35 and $50.  Snap-ON sells one
> > (Forget who really makes it).
> > 
> 
> I once had to buy a mil-spec crimper to crimp a PTO6A-14-12C bendix 
> connector to get power from a ER-2 (U-2) spy plane... I believe
> the crimper ran about $300!  There is a difference in aircraft
> crimp connectors and automotive crimp connectors...
> - Steven Ciciora

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep 28 02:14:15 1996
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From: smtjr@mail.utexas.edu (steve m trindade)
Subject: Re: Checking fuel pressure?
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mike,
i am not sure if it would work or not, but I wouldn't recommend it. they do 
make special high pressure gauges specifically for measuring fuel pressure. 
in my experience i have never seen a test port that was a schrader valve 
anyway. there is another benefit to using the right test gauge. they screw 
on and seal and usually come with a fairly long hose. with this you can 
usually go for a drive with the gauge peeking from under the cowl of the 
hood so you can read while you drive. that's where you get your good 
information from.


Steve Trindade (smtjr@mail.utexas.edu)
P1 Engineering
Austin, Tx. USA


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep 28 03:05:59 1996
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From: Shaun Brady <sbrady@pacific.pacific.net>
Subject: Re: Combustion chamber heat
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>Is your motorcycle engine air cooled? If so, did you run into problems 
>with the larger expansion/contraction of air cooled's parts?

The motor is a Honda Hawk.  647 cc, Liquid cooled, aluminum, V-Twin, 3
Valves per cylinder.  I assembled the engine at a local shop that sponsers
me, and while it sat on the bench an old car oval track racer came in and
shared his experiences with coatings.  They were much more expensive in his
day, and not widely known.  They coated an aluminum headed small block
chevy's pistons and combustion chambers.  Initially they didn't see much of
an improvement on the dyno, but they couldn't get the oil or water
temperature into the normal range either.  After they had revised the
cooling systems and carb jetting, they saw a 35 hp improvement on a 500 hp
motor.  It startled me how close this comes to Vizards publications.  This
was a fully developed motor configuration they had been using for years.
The Hawk motor was good for 71 Hp from 40 cubes.  Stock was 42 Hp.  The
motor had 11.5:1 compression, a fairly radical cam, cleaned up ports, stock
valves, low restriction exhaust and intake systems.  The motor output is
limited by the valve sizes, a really poor combustion chamber design, and an
exhaust port with limitations similar to a Cleveland ford.  I selected a
piston manufactured from a material that allowed tighter piston-bore
clearances, coated it, and assembled the motor with clearances on the tight
side of recommended.

>Can you give more details of exactly what brand and type of coatings you 
>used? Were they Jet Hot, or ceramic, or what?

I used the Polydyn Coatings (713-694-3296), as mentioned in Vizards book.
It was a very thin baked on coating, probably ceramic, probably serving a
reflective rather than insulating function.  Summit (330-630-3030) sells 3
oz bottles for less than $30.  There are separate coatings for Aluminum and
Iron.  They are sprayed on and then baked at either 350 F (Al) or 450 F
(Fe).  Polydyn Coats Piston tops for $14, combustion chambers $28, valves $5
ea.  They will also do the backside of valves and exhaust ports.  I've seen
Harley pistons for sale precoated with the other coating system Vizard
mentions (Swain Technologies).  Friction reducing coatings are also popular
among motorcycle racers, but I've heard their useful life on piston skirts
is fairly short.  I spent more on the UPS than I did the coatings, and that
was for little motorcycle parts. I'd like to do a 460 ford boat motor I'm
building, but can't imagine the shipping costs this would involve, and will
probably give the Summit coatings a try.

I would think that everything you can do to keep the heat out of an air
cooled motor would be a good thing.  Vizard suggests that the secondary
modifications allowed by coatings would improve power further yet.  Things
like narrower valve seats.  Tighter piston clearances are another
posibility.  Do car guys use Nikasil bores yet?

I see reference after reference to proffesional engine builders using these
coatings, it is more than a fad.  If you can find someone who specializes in
your engine, and will sell you a set of coated pistons, assemble them to the
clearances they've developed.  Otherwise, your left with starting with the
tight side of recommended.

Good Luck

SBrady


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sat Sep 28 13:14:59 1996
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From: "Robert Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Combustion chamber heat
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 1996 06:05:23 -0700
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Attached is a site on the west coast that does extensive
ceramic coating - check it out.


-----     Cut here - personal comment follows -----
Q: What's the difference between Jane Fonda and Bill Clinton?
A: She had the balls to go to Viet Nam
  
Robert Harris <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>


----------
> From: Shaun Brady <sbrady@pacific.pacific.net>
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: Combustion chamber heat
> Date: Friday, September 27, 1996 8:06 PM
> 
> 
> >Is your motorcycle engine air cooled? If so, did you run into problems 
> >with the larger expansion/contraction of air cooled's parts?
> 

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To: cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu, Dan Stokes <dstokes@mail.coin.missouri.edu>
CC: bp3084m@tmp.medtronic.co, john@anergy.demon.co.uk, najay@deltanet.com,
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Date: Sat, 28 Sep 1996 14:27:53
Subject: Re: EEC IV reprogramming
From: "Brian Warburton, c/o Turbo Systems Ltd" <bwarb@turbo.win-uk.net>
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Note: These are my own opinions based on my experience with Ford,
and elsewhere. Just because they may differ from someone elses
doesn't necessarily make either of us right ..... or wrong. 


>>> >  Q:  are you wanting to know the 8061 opcodes because
>>> >      you would like to 
>>> >      change the way the eec handles the information it receives?   ..
>>> >  ... or do you just want the eec to 'respond' differently to a set of 
>>> >      inputs?     
>>> >

The only reason to know the 8061/8065 opcodes is if you intend to
re-program the way the EEC works, if you just want to change the way
it responds for a given set of input data, you only need to change
the calibration, i.e. the data in the maps etc. 

>>it happens that the eec gets 1 and only 1 timing signal from the tfi 
>>unit.  it is called the pip (Profile Ignition Pickup ??).  on a 4 cyl the 
>>output of the pip is 45 - 55Hz @ 1000 RPM, on a 6 cyl the output of the 
>>pip is 45 - 55Hz @ 1000 RPM, and finally on an 8cyl the output (and 
>>you guessed it) is 45 - 55Hz @ 1000RPM (oh: the duty cycle on all of these 
>>should be 50%) these numbers are true for all ford engines except the 
>>SEFI 8cyl (the SEFI 6 cylinders are the same.  the 8 cyl must need 
>>tighter timing indexes)

I missed the start of this discussion so I'm purely speculating on
the original question/inquiry but here goes anyway.

The EEC's only see one Crankshaft Position Sensor signal, but where
it comes from depends on the age of the EEC. Early EEC's used a
sectored wheel in the distributor which produced a square wave of
frequency of Number-Cylinders per 2-revs with a nominal 50%
dutycycle unless SEFI was used wherupon there was a "short" tooth.
The spark was output by a TFI unit.

The later (and to the best of my knowledge) all current EEC's
including the EEC-v utilise a 36-1 tooth wheel for CPS which is
pre-processed by a unit known as the EDIS (Electronic DIStributor).
The EDIS converts the 36-1 into a 2 pulses/rev 50% dutycycle square
wave which is then fed into the EEC to be used for RPM and injector
timing calculations. The EEC sends a PWM signal to the EDIS
defining the spark advance required, and the EDIS unit then times
out the signals to the coils (wasted spark).  This gives a more
accurate spark delivery as the EDIS has access to timing data
which is updated every 10 crank degrees whereas the EEC only gets
timing data every 90 degrees. 

>>what i gleened from this is that the pip does 2 things:
>>1) it lets the eec know how fast the engine is turning (frequency alone)
>>2) it gives a base signal to be sent back to the tfi after being delayed 
>>   a bit.  this delay or phase change (realitive to the pip) is what lets
>>   the eec control timing, but indirectly, the tfi is doing _most_ of the 
>>   work.
>>

The return signal from the EEC to the EDIS is unrelated to the PIP.
It purely indicates to the EDIS unit the amount of spark advance
required. 

>>mike wesley has said ..
>>    "you'll see that ford does not use the CPU as it was designed (to be 
>>    used?)   . . . they waste so much CPU it's pitiful"
>>

Having spent from 1986 to 1994 full-time consulting to Ford (both in
Europe for FOB and in the U.S. for NAAO) on EEC-iv/EEC-v design and
programming, I'd be genuinely interested to hear the basis for those
comments. 

>>i'm betting he's refering to the fact that the CPU is just looking up a 
>>bunch of tables. (remember superchips .. just tables no code)
>>the cpu only has to look up injector "on time" and SPOUT "phase shift" 
>>for any certain rpm, mass air, and engine temperature and its job is 
>>done.  add on a few more bells and whistles and its done.  A real 
>>programmer would use the CPU to "compute" these outputs not look them up.

I'll deliberately pass on the "real-programmer" comment, suffice to
say that I'd love to see the algorythm that could calculate
required/optimium Spark Advance under all conditions to enable the
engine to meet its operating criteria of power, driveability and
most importantly emissions given the input data available to an
EEC, i.e. CPS timing data, engine temperature, air-charge
temperature, throttle position, EGO data and Cylinder-ID to name
the significant ones. It's (relatively) easy to determine/calculate
the spark required for optimium power, but the compromises made to
meet emissions and driveability makes it a whole new ball game. 

>>moral is: if you want to make your own controller (and i'm interested) 
>>all you have to do is figure out the "TFI secret" and half your job is 
>>done.  the injector pulsing is a piece of cake compared to trying to fire 
>>a spark at the proper time ... every time. 
>>

No secret to the EDIS, it knows the required spark advance from the
EEC and has accurate and regularly updated timing data for current
crankshaft position, what else do you need to deliver an accurate
spark ?

>>i think you CAN use any eec with any other engine (all the fuel injectors 
>>are in banks of two ... choose the proper size and fuel pressure ... pick 
>>the proper TFI ( is there a difference??)  and adjust for wiring 
>>differences.. <;-)

I think you'll find the "TFI" (EDIS) units are all very similar, 
the differences are in the EEC. You can't just switch EEC's for
different EEC's, they are generally electrically similar (not
identical) but totally different in terms of code and calibration
content. 

>From my understanding of Mikes box, you can map out the internal
PROM and use external memory which would let you run any
program/calibration you wanted (and had copies of) in an EEC.
I'd guess you'd need a permanent piggy-back type board with an
EPROM and address decoder PAL on it (a la Super-Chips) to make
permanent changes tho'....... 
 
I for one would be interested to hear more about these boxes,
especially if they're to become commercially available. I could
find a good use for one ! 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Brian Warburton,   "Still searching for the perfect curve....."
email: bwarb@turbo.win-uk.net
                               Advanced Automotive Electronics Ltd,
                               Van-Nuys House, Scotlands Drive,
                               Farnham Common, England.  SL2-3ES
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 


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>
>From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
>Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 15:06:09 -0500
>Subject: Re: EEC IV reprogramming *** [THE LIST] ***
>
>Man, did I stir sumpin up or what?  Lots of people seem to be interested.
>
>Here is my current list of who I've found that are specifically interested
>in EEC-IV (or has offered an opinion).  None of these has said they want out.
>I don't know which of these is getting duplicate postings because they are
>on diy_efi or FordNatics -- or both.
>
>I would like to think that all of you would subscribe to diy_efi??  I
>don't want to start a new list -- don't know how, don't wanna know how.
>I just wanna be able to fiddle with my Fords !! (Just like the rest of
>you.)
>
>I teach a class where students have to build a project (including
>a simple PCB).  I can always tell who has experience -- the guy that
>wants to lay out a PCB or design a circuit doesn't have any.  If he did,
>he'd know how time intensive it is and that a 3-1/2 month semester
>is too short (some folks do pull it off, though -- takes real intestinal
>fortitude).  Well, I'd like to know all about the EEC.  I know that if
>I had all the tools: code, assembler, C++ compiler, debugger, logic
>analyzer, 'scope, EPROM burner, computer, tools, and money (and I have
>all of those -- except for the code, assembler, debugger and money),
>I still wouldn't have the time.  Seems like Mike's doo-dad is the best
>deal for the money -- if we could only get one.  Isn't a real problem
>for me, though, since I'm not really quite ready for it just yet anyway.
>
>Josh <bozak@newworld.bridge.net>
>Alex Cazin <acazin@interlog.com>
>Derek Deeter <derek_deeter@MENTORG.COM>
>Tom Cloud <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>
>Dave Compton <dcompton@jnpcs.com>
>Jim Dibble <dibble@peaches.ph.utexas.edu>
>Pat <pdonleycott@vnet.ibm.com>
>Craig Eid <craige@tiger.sr.hp.com>
>Terry Fair <tfair@bjservices.com>
>Gary Graham <GEGnTx@aol.com>
>Todd King <Todd_King@ccm.co.intel.com>
>Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>
>Cliff Koch <koch@cae.cig.mot.com>
>Jonathan Lloyd <john@anergy.demon.co.uk>
>George Najarian <najay@deltanet.com>
>Bob Nell <bnell@utk.edu>
>James Pearl <jvp@qsi.com>
>Bradford Peterson <bp3084m@tmp.medtronic.com>
>Sven Pruett <vanir@gnn.com>
>Eric Riggert <riggert@nb.rockwell.com>
>Steve Sadler <ssadler@odyline.com>
>Jody Shapiro <jshapiro@token.net>
>"Dr. Shidel; BA, BS, MS, PhD" <shidel@suntan.eng.usf.edu>
>Dan Stokes <dstokes@mail.coin.missouri.edu>
>James Weiler <james@brc.ubc.ca>
>Donald Whisnant <dewhisna@ix.netcom.com>
>Travis Willis <svt@starlink.com>
>
>Thanks,
>Tom Cloud

There's an outfit on the web that advertises reprogramable eec's, with a
price that's
not totally ridicoulous. I enquired and they replied with a request for more 
vehicle info. Maybe it's me, but when somebody can't provide product info 
without trying some propietary single vehicle scam I lose interest in a hurry.
My reply to them stated that if they had to have a particular vehicle use 
a 54 cornbinder, thought that would give them a good baseline. Guess what?
No reply!
   My cornbinder is turbocharged, has injection provisions, and 500 cu. in.
Anyhow,
I'm looking for a tool that can be used on all cars if the right sensors and
wiring
are put in place, not something that has to be junked with every car.

  Anyhow, if anything like this comes out of this, add me to the list.   
 
>------------------------------
>
>From: "Johnny" <allnight@everett.net>
>Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 16:17:50 -0700
>Subject: Re: Wires and such
>
>AMP makes a pretty good one for about 80 bucks. It comes with one set of
>dies for your regular "car type" crimp connectors and many other die sets
>are available, like for BNC's etc. It pays to use "real" connectors too.
>The AMP connectors give good results, and they make just about any
>connector you can think of.
>
>Like David said, soldering don't cut it when you are talking about wires
>that move around. Even wires that attach to a circuit board are (gasp)
>wrapped, not soldered, when used in high vibration environments.
>
>Once you have used a real crimper on real connectors... well, the next time
>you are at Al's and you see that glorious $6.95 connector kit with the
>crimper and the the connectors you will enjoy snickering as you pass by. If
>you want a real good laugh, just ask the doofass behind the counter "hey,
>where do you keep the real crimpers".
>
>- -j-
>
>- ----------
>> From: Steve Ciciora <scicior@uswest.com>
>> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
>> Subject: Re: Wires and such
>> Date: Friday, September 27, 1996 12:14 PM
>> 
>> > 
>> > Okay, you said it, but did anyone get it?? If you're gonna crimp -- and
>> > want it to be reliable -- hafta use the right tool!!  Trust me, it's
>> > not the Champ or Klein you gots in your tool box.  A good tool that
>> > works on most crimp-ons costs between $35 and $50.  Snap-ON sells one
>> > (Forget who really makes it).
>> > 
>> 
>> I once had to buy a mil-spec crimper to crimp a PTO6A-14-12C bendix 
>> connector to get power from a ER-2 (U-2) spy plane... I believe
>> the crimper ran about $300!  There is a difference in aircraft
>> crimp connectors and automotive crimp connectors...
>> - Steven Ciciora
>
>------------------------------
>
>From: smtjr@mail.utexas.edu (steve m trindade)
>Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 21:10:50 -0500
>Subject: Re: Checking fuel pressure?
>
>mike,
>i am not sure if it would work or not, but I wouldn't recommend it. they do 
>make special high pressure gauges specifically for measuring fuel pressure. 
>in my experience i have never seen a test port that was a schrader valve 
>anyway. there is another benefit to using the right test gauge. they screw 
>on and seal and usually come with a fairly long hose. with this you can 
>usually go for a drive with the gauge peeking from under the cowl of the 
>hood so you can read while you drive. that's where you get your good 
>information from.
>
>
>Steve Trindade (smtjr@mail.utexas.edu)
>P1 Engineering
>Austin, Tx. USA
>
>------------------------------
>
>From: Shaun Brady <sbrady@pacific.pacific.net>
>Date: Fri, 27 Sep 1996 20:06:25 -0700
>Subject: Re: Combustion chamber heat
>
>>Is your motorcycle engine air cooled? If so, did you run into problems 
>>with the larger expansion/contraction of air cooled's parts?
>
>The motor is a Honda Hawk.  647 cc, Liquid cooled, aluminum, V-Twin, 3
>Valves per cylinder.  I assembled the engine at a local shop that sponsers
>me, and while it sat on the bench an old car oval track racer came in and
>shared his experiences with coatings.  They were much more expensive in his
>day, and not widely known.  They coated an aluminum headed small block
>chevy's pistons and combustion chambers.  Initially they didn't see much of
>an improvement on the dyno, but they couldn't get the oil or water
>temperature into the normal range either.  After they had revised the
>cooling systems and carb jetting, they saw a 35 hp improvement on a 500 hp
>motor.  It startled me how close this comes to Vizards publications.  This
>was a fully developed motor configuration they had been using for years.
>The Hawk motor was good for 71 Hp from 40 cubes.  Stock was 42 Hp.  The
>motor had 11.5:1 compression, a fairly radical cam, cleaned up ports, stock
>valves, low restriction exhaust and intake systems.  The motor output is
>limited by the valve sizes, a really poor combustion chamber design, and an
>exhaust port with limitations similar to a Cleveland ford.  I selected a
>piston manufactured from a material that allowed tighter piston-bore
>clearances, coated it, and assembled the motor with clearances on the tight
>side of recommended.
>
>>Can you give more details of exactly what brand and type of coatings you 
>>used? Were they Jet Hot, or ceramic, or what?
>
>I used the Polydyn Coatings (713-694-3296), as mentioned in Vizards book.
>It was a very thin baked on coating, probably ceramic, probably serving a
>reflective rather than insulating function.  Summit (330-630-3030) sells 3
>oz bottles for less than $30.  There are separate coatings for Aluminum and
>Iron.  They are sprayed on and then baked at either 350 F (Al) or 450 F
>(Fe).  Polydyn Coats Piston tops for $14, combustion chambers $28, valves $5
>ea.  They will also do the backside of valves and exhaust ports.  I've seen
>Harley pistons for sale precoated with the other coating system Vizard
>mentions (Swain Technologies).  Friction reducing coatings are also popular
>among motorcycle racers, but I've heard their useful life on piston skirts
>is fairly short.  I spent more on the UPS than I did the coatings, and that
>was for little motorcycle parts. I'd like to do a 460 ford boat motor I'm
>building, but can't imagine the shipping costs this would involve, and will
>probably give the Summit coatings a try.
>
>I would think that everything you can do to keep the heat out of an air
>cooled motor would be a good thing.  Vizard suggests that the secondary
>modifications allowed by coatings would improve power further yet.  Things
>like narrower valve seats.  Tighter piston clearances are another
>posibility.  Do car guys use Nikasil bores yet?
>
>I see reference after reference to proffesional engine builders using these
>coatings, it is more than a fad.  If you can find someone who specializes in
>your engine, and will sell you a set of coated pistons, assemble them to the
>clearances they've developed.  Otherwise, your left with starting with the
>tight side of recommended.
>
>Good Luck
>
>SBrady
>
>------------------------------
>
>End of DIY_EFI Digest V1 #290
>*****************************
>
>To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command:
>
>    subscribe diy_efi-digest
>
>in the body of a message to "Majordomo@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu".  
>
>A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to
>subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command
> above with "diy_efi".
>
>


"a society that will trade a little freedom for a little order 
deserves neither"
                                                       Thomas Jefferson

Clinton doesn't want anything Hitler didn't have.

What do you get with Bob Dole, Bill Clinton, and Dolly Parton in the same room?

Two boobs and a country singer!
 
Harry Browne for president 96!                              Talltom


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From: Darrell Norquay <dnorquay@awinc.com>
Subject: Flame On!
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At 09:59 PM 9/28/96 -0700, Talltom wrote a few line reply with 10 attached
messages that have absolutely nothing to do with the reply...

Already read em', trashed 'em, don't wanna read 'em all 15 times over
searching for the meat of the message 'cause everybody is too lazy to delete
all the irrelevant crap from their replies.

This is just a very small flame, don't take it personal, long Tom, you were
just the last guilty party, but by far not the only one.  Seems that the
people who get the digest version of the list are the worst, cause they
receive this stuff all in one lump, they think it's ok to send it all back
again in one lump.  Then the next guy adds his 2 bits worth, and does it
again, ad infinitum, ad nauseum. Think of all that pristine, virgin
bandwidth that could be carrying something useful, going to waste sending
the same dull sh#t over and over again...  Not to mention that some poor
slob's hard disk somewhere has 367 copies of the same message in various
incarnations stored on it for future reference.

That's why Billy G. invented editors, so's you can delete all the irrelevant
crap.  Puhleeze! don't reply to this and waste more bandwidth, just keep it
in mind next time you do reply, and show *some* awareness of netiquette...

Flame Off!
regards
dn
dnorquay@awinc.com


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Date: 	Sun, 29 Sep 1996 14:03:00 -0700
To: diy_efi
From: peter paul fenske <pfenske@direct.ca>
Subject: DFI ECU
Message-Id: <96Sep29.152632-0700pdt.30371-26363+431@orb.direct.ca>
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Hi All

A friend of mine is looking for a DFI or ACCEL ecu for his
blown 671 351 W. If anyone has a used unit for sale let me know.

Does anyone know how to get a hold of DFI.

Thanx all: peter


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Sun Sep 29 23:16:00 1996
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Date: Sun, 29 Sep 1996 19:12:25 -0400
To: diy_efi
From: Lance Ward <lance@sojourn.com>
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At 02:03 PM 9/29/96 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi All
>
>A friend of mine is looking for a DFI or ACCEL ecu for his
>blown 671 351 W. If anyone has a used unit for sale let me know.
>
>Does anyone know how to get a hold of DFI.
>
>Thanx all: peter
>

I'm a systems engineer there. Can I help?

Regards,

Lance


========================================================
Lance Ward (lance@sojourn.com) (JustaV6 @ IRC)
www.sojourn.com/~lance
========================================================


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 04:15:11 1996
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Bob Harris - you out there? Don't have your address and I've got something
I think you might like to see.


"a society that will trade a little freedom for a little order 
deserves neither"
                                                       Thomas Jefferson

Clinton doesn't want anything Hitler didn't have.

What do you get with Bob Dole, Bill Clinton, and Dolly Parton in the same room?

Two boobs and a country singer!
 
Harry Browne for president 96!                              Talltom


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 04:42:41 1996
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From: "Robert Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Combustion chamber heat
Date: Sun, 29 Sep 1996 09:59:49 -0700
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Just a random thought.  Spark Ignitions have been around
since the turn of the century, and unlike any other part of the
engine, have remained essentially unchanged - simply 
refined.  We still start the fire with an itty bitty flame and wait
until it slowly spreads thru the chamber.

Has anyone given any serious thought to using industrial strength
gas lasers or similar technology?  Picture instead of a small
flame starting at the plug and radiating outward, a shaped beam 
of energy fanning thru the chamber - igniting virtually all the fuel
almost instantly thru out the chamber.  Potential benefits - almost
total combustion, more power, very little power robbing spark 
advance needed, etc.

I picture something like a quartz window screwed in where the plug
now goes, a large, flexible fiber optic light pipe going from the plug
to the laser and a high speed high power laser for each cylinder being
fired by control electronics.  I'd pick its light frequency to be
harmonically
related to either the hydrogen or carbon atoms resonance to get
maximum energy transfer.  What would be nicer would be to steal some
star wars weapons stuff.  Don't matter what the source or type of energy
beam - heck I'd even use a phasor beam (if it was remotely connected to
reality) - just as long as I could fire the whole chamber almost
simultaneously.

I know its possible, what I am hoping is that out there some where, some
lab
guy has hidden away knowledge of  industrial strength lasers that might be 
adapted to an experiment and is willing to share it with the rest of us.

Won't see anything like this in production for years - cost you know.  If
it costs
$1.00 more and you make a million cars, thats almost enuff saved to pay for
a party for the president if you don't do it.  Probably won't see it in the
U.S.A.
Anything powerful enuff to light the fire will be labeled as a munition by
the 
CIA or banned as a terrorist weapon not usable for hunting or sporting
purposes
by our president.

Now I realize that the preceding idea was not discussed in the
fourth edition of the holy grail by some long dead European dude
before the onset of senility and probably has not hitten popular
hot rodding or thermodynamics 101, but, I've got new asbestos
panty liners so I thought I'd ask.  Besides, if the technology is
ready, and I can steal it, I really don't care what the world thinks

-----     Cut here - personal comment follows -----
Q: What's the difference between Jane Fonda and Bill Clinton?
A: She had the balls to go to Viet Nam
  
Robert Harris <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>


----------


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 11:56:08 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Combustion chamber heat
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On Sun, 29 Sep 1996, Robert Harris wrote:
> 
> Has anyone given any serious thought to using industrial strength
> gas lasers or similar technology? 

Not quite relavent, but I heard that Saab uses the top of the piston as 
the negative electrode for the spark, so that it creates a spark from the 
top of the combustion chamber to the bottom (piston top). 

> I've got new asbestos
> panty liners...

Cross-dressing, are we? ;)


****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 12:10:43 1996
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Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 08:09:25 -0600 (EDT)
From: Frank Parker <fparker@umich.edu>
To: peter paul fenske <pfenske@direct.ca>
cc: diy_efi
Subject: Re: DFI ECU
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> 
> Hi All
> 
> A friend of mine is looking for a DFI or ACCEL ecu for his
> blown 671 351 W. If anyone has a used unit for sale let me know.
> 
> Does anyone know how to get a hold of DFI.
> 
> Thanx all: peter
> 
> 
DFI may be reached in Wixom, MI at 810-380-1322.
 
	Frank Parker


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 12:57:23 1996
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To: diy_efi
Cc: atsakiri@ford.com
Subject: Re: EEC IV reprogramming 
In-Reply-To: Your message of "Sat, 28 Sep 96 14:27:53."
             <176@turbo.win-uk.net> 
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 96 08:52:24 -0400
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Snipets ...

> >>    "you'll see that ford does not use the CPU as it was designed (to be 
> >>    used?)   . . . they waste so much CPU it's pitiful"
> >>
> 
> Having spent from 1986 to 1994 full-time consulting to Ford (both in
> Europe for FOB and in the U.S. for NAAO) on EEC-iv/EEC-v design and
> programming, I'd be genuinely interested to hear the basis for those
> comments. 

Part of the basis for those comments might be the original writer's 
past experience working for Ford, in Dearborn, Michigan.  I recognize
the writer's name as working in the same department I once worked in.

No comment as to whether I agree or disagree with the writer's 
characterization of CPU usage.  


> >>i'm betting he's refering to the fact that the CPU is just looking up a 
> >>bunch of tables. (remember superchips .. just tables no code)
> >>the cpu only has to look up injector "on time" and SPOUT "phase shift" 
> >>for any certain rpm, mass air, and engine temperature and its job is 
> >>done.  add on a few more bells and whistles and its done.  A real 
> >>programmer would use the CPU to "compute" these outputs not look them up.
> 
> I'll deliberately pass on the "real-programmer" comment, suffice to
> say that I'd love to see the algorythm that could calculate
> required/optimium Spark Advance under all conditions to enable the
> engine to meet its operating criteria of power, driveability and
> most importantly emissions given the input data available to an
> EEC, i.e. CPS timing data, engine temperature, air-charge
> temperature, throttle position, EGO data and Cylinder-ID to name
> the significant ones. It's (relatively) easy to determine/calculate
> the spark required for optimium power, but the compromises made to
> meet emissions and driveability makes it a whole new ball game. 

I'd like to see such an algorithm too, then I'd like to see it run
on a computer that can be affordably packaged in a car or truck.


> >From my understanding of [   ] box, you can map out the internal
> PROM and use external memory which would let you run any
> program/calibration you wanted (and had copies of) in an EEC.
> I'd guess you'd need a permanent piggy-back type board with an
> EPROM and address decoder PAL on it (a la Super-Chips) to make
> permanent changes tho'....... 
>  
> I for one would be interested to hear more about these boxes,
> especially if they're to become commercially available. I could
> find a good use for one ! 

As I recall, Ford has some discussions about that too.  I don't 
know how the situation was concluded, but you might want to check
on the legal restrictions in general and the legal status in 
particular.



Anthony Tsakiris

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
The opinions expressed are my own and not necessarily those of my employer.





From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 13:32:17 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Wires and such
Cc: dibble@hagar.ph.utexas.edu, bbixler@austin.cc.tx.us
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        [ snip ]

>Like David said, soldering don't cut it when you are talking about wires
>that move around. Even wires that attach to a circuit board are (gasp)
>wrapped, not soldered, when used in high vibration environments.

        [ snip ]

Soldered connections are still the standard for the majority of hi-
reliability connections.  Mil-Spec (I mention this, because mil-spec
and NASA specs are some of the toughest in the world) and NASA allow
crimp only under very stringent guidelines (of course, the same could
be said for soldering).  Wire wrap is NOT COOL for anything.  It's only
for temporary connections or for connections which are in a non-hostile
environment (i.e. no humidity or temperature extremes, no vibration, etc.
-- essentially in a building).

The definition of a good electrical connection:
        1. Low resistance.
        2. Mechanically sound.
        3. Gas tight (so no oxidation can occur).

Wire wrap barely meets those criterion.  It's low resistance because
there's a minimum of ten wraps around a square post (40 contact points)
using silver plated wire.  It's hardly mechanically sound -- if for no
other reason than it uses solid wire which easily breaks.  It is gas
tight because the wire is "work hardened" by being pulled under tension
around the post and therefore becomes springy and maintains a constant
pressure trying to unwrap itself (the wire is indented by the post
and those indentions, combined with the springiness of the wire, keep
the wire pulling against the 40 or more contact points.  That is why
the wire usually breaks when unwrapping a wire wrapped connection --
the copper has been work hardened.

Stranded wire is used for most applications because it is less likely
to break (copper, silver, etc. are *work hardened* by being bent,
twisted, hit, compressed, etc. -- that's why copper gaskets must
be annealed with a torch before being re-used).  Solid wire should
only be used where there is no possibility of the wire being moved
(like jumpers on circuit boards) and where vibration won't cause
it to break.  The advantages of solid wire are that it holds its
shape better than stranded and it's slightly cheaper.

Now, for soldered and crimped connections.  Crimping is a technology
like front wheel drive:  it's to save money for the manufacturer.
Soldering is very difficult to inspect.  It's very hard to train
a worker to produce consistently high quality solder joints and it's
easy to have a joint that looks good on the surface but which does not
join to the metal underneath, giving a *cold* solder joint.  (Recommend
a book on soldering from an electronics store or Rat-Shack).  Crimping,
on the other hand, is fast and, if the right tools and connectors are
used, can give very consistent results.

What's this about not soldering wires that move around?  Well, solder
*wicks* (by capillary action) up the strands causing the wire to
effectively become solid.  This increases its likelihood of breaking.
So, the rules specify how far the solder is allowed to wick (about 1/8").
There is no evidence that says properly crimped connections are any
better than properly soldered ones.  The reason I suggest soldering
is that most of the problems encountered in electrical / electronic
circuits are due to faulty connections.  You are not likely to find
good crimp connectors at your local parts house (nor will you find
a good soldering iron or solder there, for that matter).  It is just
my experience (and I have a bunch installing industrial electronics in
vehicles and ships doing instrumentation and communications) that
soldered connections, done by someone who cares, are far less likely
to give problems than crimped ones -- and wire wrap must NEVER be used
outside of a controlled environment like a home or garage.  NEVER
use wire wrap in a car, etc.

[A quick history of wire wrap.  It was patented by Gardner-Denver
company and popularized by the telephone company.  They used to have
to solder wires to terminal blocks in the switch station to hook up
new subscribers or to change 'phone numbers.  This was real messy,
and the terminal blocks were damaged after being soldered on several
times.  Wire wrap was much faster (they use punch blocks now).
The interesting thing to note here is that they originally thought
wire wrap would last indefinitely in a controlled environment.  Turns
out, however, that the connections began to fail after about fifteen
years even in the closed switch stations.  There's enough vibration
just from seismic activity, apparently, to affect the connections, plus
the wire's pull seems to relax.  Then the silver begins to oxidize
under the contact point and, eventually, the resistance of the connection
reaches unacceptable levels.]

Now, don't misunderstand, I crimp connections in my car.  And I'll put a
wire-wrapped doo-dad in it if I want to.  Just like I sometimes buy
parts from Rat-Shack when I know they're poor quality.  But, I won't
crimp or wire-wrap anything that can cause me to walk home!!!  I just
want the list members to know what's been found to work reliably --
and why.

Tom Cloud

Tom Cloud <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas>
I have no idea where any of the preceeding stuff came from ...



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 14:11:33 1996
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From: atoian@ix.netcom.com (Eddie G. Atoian) (by way of cloud@peaches.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud))
Subject: EEC-IV ?
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 Does anyone know if a manual EEC-IV will work on an automatic? Also 
anyone know the code for '88 turbo coupe auto?

| Another Fordnatics post -- Author retains copyright -- ask before forwarding |
|Posts: fordnatics@lists.best.com  Requests: fordnatics-request@lists1.best.com|




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 14:56:02 1996
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From: M HILL <EAXMJHI@ean2.mecheng.nottingham.ac.uk>
Organization:  Mech Eng, University of Nottingham
To: diy_efi
Date:          Mon, 30 Sep 1996 15:52:25 GMT0BST
Subject:       Re: EEC IV reprogramming 
Priority: normal
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> >>i'm betting he's refering to the fact that the CPU is just looking up a 
> >>bunch of tables. (remember superchips .. just tables no code)
> >>the cpu only has to look up injector "on time" and SPOUT "phase shift" 
> >>for any certain rpm, mass air, and engine temperature and its job is 
> >>done.  add on a few more bells and whistles and its done.  A real 
> >>programmer would use the CPU to "compute" these outputs not look them up.

I take it from that that you have not seen the strategies for the 
computers.  They do a lot more than just looking at a couple of 
tables.  I know 'cos I have seen the strategies for EEC-IV.

Martin.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 16:21:02 1996
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Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 12:14:54 -0400
From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
Message-Id: <9609301614.AA25383@ivan.gallium.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Chip operating temperatures
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> Incidentally, vinyl coated automotive wire from Wal-Mart or the likes, is
> rated up to 75C.  It is darned tough getting flexible wire with a higher
> temperature rating, short of going to fiberglass insulated oven wire.

Try silicone insulated wire. We use that for motor leads in radio controlled
cars. The good stuff is so flexible it's limp. Try any good hobby shop.
(I actually repaired a clothes dryer with this stuff. It's really good.)

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 17:16:24 1996
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From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
Message-Id: <9609301709.AA25541@ivan.gallium.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Combustion chamber heat
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> I know its possible, what I am hoping is that out there some where, some lab
> guy has hidden away knowledge of  industrial strength lasers that might be 
> adapted to an experiment and is willing to share it with the rest of us.


Someone dicussed (in this group) using microwaves to simultaneously cause all
of the A/F mixture in the combustion chamber to ignite simultaneously. Look
back through the digests, and you should find it.

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 18:57:14 1996
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To: "Chuck Thigpen" <cthiggy@gulf.net>
From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re:  digital dashboard
Cc: diy_efi, fordnatics@lists.best.com
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>
>> Look in Radio-Electronics, July, 1990 for an article on building
>> a digital dashboard.  I personally like the Intersil ICL-7106, ICL-7116
>> chips.  They are 40-pin, but require a minimal amount of external
>> components and drive the LCD (or LED -- see ICL-7107 or 7117)
>> display directly.  Hosfelt Electronics (800-524-6464) has these chips
>> already on a circuit board with the display for about $16.  The
>> circuit is the standard circuit described from Intersil, and is a
>> differential input.
>> The sensors and scaling their outputs to the DPM are another problem.
>> As long as the outputs are linear, simple op-amp circuits will
>> suffice (LM-324 is a quad op-amp and allows single supply operation).
>
>
>Tom,  
>
>Thanks for the help on getting me started.  The only other question
>I have is how to handle the display.  Do you have any ideas as 
>to how I would display the proper units for each measurement?  
>For example:   Suppose a .5V signal corresponds to an inlet air temp of
>150 F.  How would I get the LCD to display the 150 F temperature?
>Thanks in advance for any thoughts.  
>
>Chuck Thigpen

The National Semiconductor Linear Applications books are great for
circuit ideas.  Making a display read in the units you want is
called "scaling" and can get real tricky.  Of course, the easiest
is when all you have to do is divide a voltage down using two resistors.
The hairiest can be when you have to add an offset voltage and maybe
linearize a logarithmic sensor output (e.g. a thermocouple).

For your specific example: you gotta know both ends of the spectrum
and whether it's a straight line (linear).  But let's just take your
specific example:  if you have a meter that reads 200 mV (actually
199.9 mV for a 3-1/2 digit meter), .5 volts is too large a voltage
for it.  Divide the .5 volts to where it is .15 volts and your
DPM will read 150.0 (you can usually set the decimal point wherever
you want it).  This would probably be done using a couple of resistors
and a pot for fine adjustment / calibration.

        input o--- R1 --- POT --- R2 --- GND
                           ^
                           |
                        output

Sample values:  if you want to vary the output say +/- .05 volts
around the .15 volts:  choose a pot (there are fewer values available).
Say 1 k.  Then (.05)*2 = .1 and .1 volt / 1k = 100 micro-amps.
Since the voltage across the pot is from .1 to .2, the voltage across
R1 = .5 - .2 = .3 volts and across R2 = .1 volts.  Then the values
for R1 = .3 / 100 microamps = 3 k; and R2 = .1 / 100 microA = 10 k.

The "load" your network puts on the sensor is the sum of all the R's
and is 3 + 1 + 10 = 14 k.  If your sensor requires less load (higher
R, you can multiply each value by the same amount and boost it to
any value.

Hope this helps -- you'll probably have to do some studying.  Radio-
Electronics and other electronic hobbyist mags can be very helpful.
Tom Cloud <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas>
I have no idea where any of the preceeding stuff came from ...



From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 19:27:29 1996
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From: cloud@hagar.ph.utexas.edu (tom cloud)
Subject: Re: Combustion chamber heat
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>> I know its possible, what I am hoping is that out there some where, some lab
>> guy has hidden away knowledge of  industrial strength lasers that might be 
>> adapted to an experiment and is willing to share it with the rest of us.
>
>
>Someone dicussed (in this group) using microwaves to simultaneously cause all
>of the A/F mixture in the combustion chamber to ignite simultaneously. Look
>back through the digests, and you should find it.

Is exploding all that stuff at the same instant a good idea?
Tom Cloud <cloud@peaches.ph.utexas>




From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 19:30:15 1996
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From: Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov>
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Subject: Re: Combustion chamber heat
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> 
> Someone dicussed (in this group) using microwaves to simultaneously cause all
> of the A/F mixture in the combustion chamber to ignite simultaneously. Look
> back through the digests, and you should find it.

Let's see, need at least one magnetron, some waveguides, and some kind of 
distributor. Also need highvoltge inverter. Hmmm....

****************************************************************************
Dirk Wright 					            wright@uspto.gov
"I speak for myself and not my employer."               1974 Porsche 914 2.0
"A real hifi glows in the dark and has horns."            1965 Goodman House
****************************************************************************


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 20:13:56 1996
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Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 16:02:01 -0400
From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
Message-Id: <9609302002.AA27032@ivan.gallium.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Combustion chamber heat
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> >Someone dicussed (in this group) using microwaves to simultaneously cause all
> Is exploding all that stuff at the same instant a good idea?

If I understand this correctly, having two flame fronts colide (preignition)
is a BAD idea. But if it all goes off at the same time, it's OK (think of it
as a *very* fast burning fuel). Probably won't need as much advance.

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 20:16:29 1996
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From: "Chuck Tomlinson" <tomlinsc@ix.netcom.com>
To: <diy_efi>
Subject: Re: Combustion chamber heat
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 16:15:16 -0400
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> From: Michael F. Sargent
> 
> Someone dicussed (in this group) using microwaves to simultaneously cause
all
> of the A/F mixture in the combustion chamber to ignite simultaneously.
Look
> back through the digests, and you should find it.

Forget microwaves; use 16:1 compression ...OR... How is this different from
detonation?

--
Chuck Tomlinson

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 20:16:31 1996
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Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 16:14:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: John Napoli <jgn@li.net>
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Chevy EFI Mods
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I am considering the replacement of the stock 350 in my 1988 Chevy truck
with either a 350/350 or a 383/350 from an aftermarket source.  The truck
is a 4x4 (1500 Series) used for street stuff and occasional towing. 

I am interested in more power and torque in the 1200 to 4500 rpm range.

Assuming that either of these motors are appropriate -- and both come with
an Edelbrock manifold, perhaps a Torquer -- what modifications are needed
for my TBI to compensate for the extra displacement and increased flows?

Do I just need a new chip -- are they available and from where -- or am I
looking at extensive EFI mods or a carburetor.  Neither of these
alternatives is very appealing just now.

What happens if I just bolt the old EFI onto the new 350?  Or the new
383?

John


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 20:51:01 1996
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Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 16:42:11 -0400
From: MSargent@gallium.com (Michael F. Sargent)
Message-Id: <9609302042.AA27065@ivan.gallium.com>
To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Combustion chamber heat
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> Forget microwaves; use 16:1 compression ...OR... How is this different from
> detonation?

The problem with engine control is timing. With 16:1 compression, the time
when the mixure ignites is not as predictable as using 10:1 and sparking it
to start it burning. Microwaves have predictable timing ... NOW!
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Michael F. Sargent   | Net: msargent@gallium.com | Phone: 1(613)721-0902 |
| Gallium Software Inc.|                           | FAX:   1(613)721-1278 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 21:09:59 1996
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From: fridman@cpsc.ucalgary.ca (Robert Fridman)
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To: diy_efi
Subject: Re: Combustion chamber & twin plugs
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> > >Someone dicussed (in this group) using microwaves to simultaneously cause all
> > Is exploding all that stuff at the same instant a good idea?
> 
> If I understand this correctly, having two flame fronts colide (preignition)
> is a BAD idea. But if it all goes off at the same time, it's OK (think of it
> as a *very* fast burning fuel). Probably won't need as much advance.

Having 2 flame fronts does not seem to be so bad.  On some engines
(BMW Boxer  pushrod motorcycle engines), having 2 flame fronts reduces
burn time to such an extent, that raising the compression (8.5:1 to
9.5:1) and reducing the octane (from super to regular) is possible.
The mixture can be leaned out as well.

I would guess that the twin flame fronts burn the mixture inside the
ignition lag time, so detonation is avoided.

Does anyone have any references to any work dealing with multiple
spark plugs per cylinder?


	RF.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
83 R100			DoD 749			Robert Fridman
84 320i						fridman@cpsc.ucalgary.ca

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 21:26:04 1996
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> 
> Try silicone insulated wire. We use that for motor leads in radio controlled
> cars. The good stuff is so flexible it's limp. Try any good hobby shop.
> (I actually repaired a clothes dryer with this stuff. It's really good.)
I've been getting pretty good copper core, silicone rubber insulated 8mm 
wire from J. C. Whitney.

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 22:42:04 1996
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You should use an Perfromer RPM manifiold for that application.  me

At 04:14 PM 9/30/96 -0400, you wrote:
>I am considering the replacement of the stock 350 in my 1988 Chevy truck
>with either a 350/350 or a 383/350 from an aftermarket source.  The truck
>is a 4x4 (1500 Series) used for street stuff and occasional towing. 
>
>I am interested in more power and torque in the 1200 to 4500 rpm range.
>
>Assuming that either of these motors are appropriate -- and both come with
>an Edelbrock manifold, perhaps a Torquer -- what modifications are needed
>for my TBI to compensate for the extra displacement and increased flows?
>
>Do I just need a new chip -- are they available and from where -- or am I
>looking at extensive EFI mods or a carburetor.  Neither of these
>alternatives is very appealing just now.
>
>What happens if I just bolt the old EFI onto the new 350?  Or the new
>383?
>
>John
>
>
>
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From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 23:07:12 1996
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Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 15:50:31 -0700
From: Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>
Organization: Protomotive Engineering
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Robert Harris wrote:
> 
> I picture something like a quartz window screwed in where the plug
> now goes, a large, flexible fiber optic light pipe going from the plug
> to the laser and a high speed high power laser for each cylinder being
> fired by control electronics.  I'd pick its light frequency to be
> harmonically
> related to either the hydrogen or carbon atoms resonance to get
> maximum energy transfer.  What would be nicer would be to steal some
> star wars weapons stuff.  Don't matter what the source or type of energy
> beam - heck I'd even use a phasor beam (if it was remotely connected to
> reality) - just as long as I could fire the whole chamber almost
> simultaneously.
> 

	I think I remember the addage "I don't do windows", and if I won't, who
can I send in to wash my "Quartz Window" off all the time.

Todd Knighton
Protomotive Engineering

P.S.	Otherwise, cool idea, but why not just play with the compression a
bit more, inject the flammable stuff at the right time and boom.  No
spark needed, oh sorry, that's a diesel.


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 23:07:45 1996
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To: diy_efi
From: Sandy <sganz@westworld.com>
Subject: Re: Combustion chamber heat
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At 02:21 PM 9/30/96 -0500, you wrote:
>>> I know its possible, what I am hoping is that out there some where, some lab
>>> guy has hidden away knowledge of  industrial strength lasers that might be 
>>> adapted to an experiment and is willing to share it with the rest of us.
>>
>

These guys a while back invented this thing, it was made of a glass like
substance with a metal electrode through the middle, I can't remember what
they called it, but it worked very well. ;-)

Sandy


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Mon Sep 30 23:24:07 1996
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Dirk Wright <wright@uspto.gov> Wrote:
| 
| > 
| > Someone dicussed (in this group) using microwaves to simultaneously 
cause all
| > of the A/F mixture in the combustion chamber to ignite simultaneously. 
Look
| > back through the digests, and you should find it.
| 
| Let's see, need at least one magnetron, some waveguides, and some kind of 

| distributor. Also need highvoltge inverter. Hmmm....

Or a handfull of Gunn diodes and 30v at a few amps...  How much mw power 
would it take to ignite the mixture, and how would you get the power into 
the chamber?


Steve Ravet
sravet@bangate.compaq.com
Baby you're a genius when it comes to cooking up some chili sauce...

From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Oct  1 01:17:33 1996
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From: Michael Fawke <fawkacs@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Re: Combustion chamber & twin plugs
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[snip]
>Does anyone have any references to any work dealing with multiple
>spark plugs per cylinder?
>
Car and Car Conversions magazine's tech person has built an 8 plug
Ford pinto motor for an escort race car. It uses adapters screwed into
the head with motorcycle plugs. Timing advance had to be reduced, 
but tests could not be completed because the adapters came loose.
The adapters were screw-in to avoid a rule about welded heads....
There have been two articles on this subject in the last four or so issues
this year. The magazine is published by Link House.
Michael Fawke
Canberra, Australia.
fawkacs@ozemail.com.au


From owner-diy_efi-archive  Tue Oct  1 05:41:35 1996
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Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 22:18:03 -0700
From: Todd Knighton <knighton@net-quest.com>
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Michael Fawke wrote:
> 
> [snip]
> >Does anyone have any references to any work dealing with multiple
> >spark plugs per cylinder?
> >

	The 911's use them on the newer cars, since 1989 to be exact.  The
older race car (911's) had twin-plugs as well.  
	It works very well in the Porsche's Hemispherical cylinder head design.	
	We've noted approximately 3-4 degress advance difference on the turbo
engines we do.  The Fuel Economy is improved, as well as the emissions.
	Also heard of American Eagle making that 12 cylinder engine for drag
racing with 3 plugs per cylinder on a 4 valve engine.  The chambers were
so huge that a central plug wasn't enough.

Todd Knighton
Protomotive Engineering


