From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 02:38:52 1998
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Date: Fri, 01 May 1998 00:25:34 -0600
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> We here at CSH., HQ., are experiencing a technical problem.
> While slightly off list, the edge is blurring here between personal
> and 101 projects.  Anyway, we need a couple things.  1. a set
> of ecm connectors like used on the 747's (it used two connectors),
> 2. a set off a 730 type ecm (it had three connectors), with like a
> foot (preferably more) of wire on them for doing some bench work.
> 3. Then a entire harness outta like a 90-91 2.8 Celebrity, or any other
> 1227730 ecm equipped car.  Not looking for freebies, just resonable
> priced ones.
> Nor a worry mate.
> Bruce


What's reasonable?  Local bone yard sells harnesses for $50,
and ECM for $50.  Can maybe get both for $75, but seems high
to me.  If interested, I'll make some calls.

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 02:42:19 1998
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Message-ID: <01BD751F.4A6AEF80.dzorde@soanar.com.au>
From: Dan Zorde <dzorde@soanar.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Supercharged 3800
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 16:36:27 +0800
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AU$1=US$0.646

Dan	dzorde@soanar.com.au

-----Original Message-----
From:	TBK [SMTP:terryk@foothill.net]
Sent:	Friday, 01 May, 1998 1:40 PM
To:	diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:	Re: Supercharged 3800

What's the current exchange rate?

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: 'diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 30, 1998 9:52 PM
Subject: RE: Supercharged 3800


>Thanks for the reply,
>
>What would be the difference if the SC is mounted downstream (i.e after)
>compared to upstream (i.e before) the throttle body - to me it seems almost
>the same i.e interms of throttle body restriction, 10 psi vaccum after the
>TB vs 10 psi of pressure before the TB would result in the same flow across
>the TB.
>
>For me, mounting the SC after the TB would make for a cleaner install.
>
>BTW to all those interested, I can get the Eaton as fitted to the S/C 3800
>for AUS$950 across the local parts counter.
>
>Peter
>
>----------
>From: Strasser
>Sent: Friday, May 01, 1998 4:14 PM
>To: DIY
>Subject: Fw: Supercharged 3800
>
>If you mount your S/C downstream of your TB,  it seems you will see little
>top end gain unless you increase your TB size.  Once the pressure drop
>across your TB reaches a maximum (in fluid dynamics terms, this is the
>point
>of "choking" -- sonic flow of a gas), it can "flow" no more...no matter
>what
>is pulling on the other side.  For example, in carbureted applications, the
>installation of a roots type supercharger under the carb, requires
>increasing size of carb.
>
>
>Wayne Strasser
>Chemical Engineer
>EFI Patent Pending
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: TBK <terryk@foothill.net>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Tuesday, April 28, 1998 9:23 PM
>Subject: Re: Supercharged 3800
>
>
>The Eaton M-62 is ~$1700US new $1300 rebuilt. M-90 a little higher. Contact
>www.eaton.com
>
>TK
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
>To: 'DIY_EFI' <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Tuesday, April 28, 1998 4:27 PM
>Subject: Supercharged 3800
>
>
>>Hi all,
>>
>>Q regrading S/C 3800.
>>
>>In Aus thay're fitted in Holdens. Drove one on the weekend in a LWB luxo
>barge Statesman and was extremely surprised by the grunt as well as the
>linear power delivery.
>>
>>Now, wanted to force induct my own earlier 3800, questions I have is if I
>mount the S/C between the engine and throttle body (with the MAP sensor on
>the throttle body), can I get away with running a 1 bar/atmo MAP sensor as
>the MAP would never see boost.
>>
>>My only concern is the MAP may be subject to too much vacuum under hi
>rev/lo TPS.
>>
>>Would this cause a problem?
>>
>>Any comments suggestions?
>>
>>Anyone Stateside know the price of a factory S/C for a 3800 - a local
>importer here has a new one but wants $1800. I can buy a brand new complete
>engine from Holden for approx $5000, which makes the $1800 for a bare S/C
>seem a little high :-(
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 06:07:55 1998
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Date: Fri, 01 May 1998 10:47:16 +0100
From: Tony Cooper <tony.cooper@virgin.net>
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Bruce - Please excuse me if you already understand this, but the numbers
shown below are bit fields within bytes.

Sorry if I am typin the bleedin obvious on this one.
TTFN
Tony

Bruce Plecan wrote:

> Again please read all prior 101 text before trying to interupt this
> as a complete thought.
>
> I'm going to give a few examples of what a set of malfunction
> code flags look like and how they change in a given application.
>
> If we were to look a 747 bin file with a hex editor, we might see
>
> 050D     050E     050F
>   FD         39          F9    would be stock
>   FC         39          F9   would be no vss diagnostics (code 24)
>   FD         39          79   would be no knock (code 43)
>   FD         19          F9   would be no egr (code 32)
> I hope this shines a tad more light on the issue.  Also note
> how unique the pattern seems against all the other table
> stuff.
>
> Also, an address might better discribe 16 bytes, and an
> address of say 0000+0001, rather than a location of say
> 0000..
>
> Cheers
> Bruce       We need a Cone Shaped Hat representative in
>                  washington, DC by the year 2000.  If I start
>                  walking now I might make it in time..



--
Sent By Tony Cooper.
email: tony.cooper@virgin.net
Allow at least 10 working minutes for reply. ;)





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From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 08:37:31 1998
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Date: Fri, 01 May 1998 22:37:11 +1000
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: Re: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
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If you are serious about trying to make you Commodore more Aerodynamic, why
don't you turn up to a round of the Australian AUSCAR series, where
commodores make up more than half the feild,  and take a quick look under
one of these cars.

>From my experience with these cars I can say that there is very few
modifications made to the underside of the vehicle (suspension excepted).


From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 08:40:27 1998
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The local vehicular recycling facilities (PC for junkyards) don't really want to sell harnesses. Brain boxes and hubcaps OK but not harnesses. What type wire is good for an engine harness? Is THHN or TFFN OK? Both are oil resistant but how about temperature? What do the auto manufacturers use?

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 08:41:42 1998
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The local vehicular recycling centers (PC for junkyards) don't seem to want to sell wiring harnesses. Is THHN or TFFN wire OK? What do the auto manufacturers use?

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 08:47:51 1998
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Date: Fri, 01 May 1998 22:47:44 +1000
To: diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: METHANOL vs WATER INJECTION...
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might be a good time to ask whether methanol injection injection may have
increased benefits over water injection.  Methanol would seem to have
similar intake charge cooling properties, and yet it is combustible too...

wouldn't this acheive a better result?


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Subject: Re: DFI: Urgent, Need help with a DFI harness
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I sent it, if you did not get it correctly let me know.
> 
> 
> 	DOH! That's his phone line. His FAX number is 732-775-0427. Sorry about
> that.
> 
> -Ed
> 
> 
Randy Braun
'77 C-10 pick-up, DFI-Tuned Port, 350
'82 Firebird, DFI, ZZ3
'91 GTA, Stock

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Date: Fri, 01 May 1998 06:47:38 -0800
From: Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
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The disassemblies I have posted on the web have been updated.  The
register contents are "known" in a few cases where they used to be
"unknown".  In a few cases, false "used" status is no longer flagged.  A
macros file has also been included with each disassembly.

A fourth disassmbly has been added to the previous three.  It is for the
1227148 ECM (3.8 V6 SFI NA & turbo) with a PROM from a NA FWD 3.8. 
Thanks to treprom.zip for the raw ECM ROM data.

Here's the URL (again):

  http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/disasm.html

               unsigned long BinToBCD(unsigned long i) {unsigned long t;
Ludis Langens     return i ? (t = BinToBCD(i >> 1), (t << 1) + (i & 1) + 
ludis@cruzers.com            (t + 858993459 >> 2 & 572662306) * 3) : 0;}


From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 09:52:43 1998
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Date: Fri, 01 May 1998 09:49:04 -0700
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Water/Akly Inj Recipe
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I had saved this message from the Buick Grand National list, from a gent
named "Phil" who removed the detonation from his Turbo Buick 3.8/4.1L
engine, via alky.  He can run significantly more boost because of the below
methods.

I tried it on my supercharged Lincoln, however backed the equipment off the
car because I'm having a performance problem even without the supercharger
blowing any air (I think I have a weak injector, but the car has 80K hard
miles on it, so its reasonable).  Anyway, here is his recipe:

"Cheap" Alky Injection Recipe;

Intro.

The system that I have came up with utilizes some used parts that I had laying
around and a few new ones too. I don't guarantee as good results as I have
seen, but on the other hand some of you might experience better. You may have
to do some looking around junk yards, but when a guy is on a budget you do
what you can do-:) Let me apologize for the lack of part numbers and such. I
didn't plan on writing a recipe for this. I hope that some of you will benefit
from it, although it may require a little investigative work. Here's the basic
run down...

Materials:

1) Electronic fuel pump 
 ...I bought mine for $40 used. I found a Bosch (# 9580 810 021) unit off a
Ford truck with EFI. It's used but seems to be working well. Puts out over
60psi at the injector. a Bosch rep told me that most of there pumps have
stainless insides (which resist alky corrosion. This is the main "iffy" part
to the recipe. You gotta find a good EFI pump. I would not suggest the little
skinnies that come in our cars. I have not heard any thing _good_ about them
and alky/water. You may want to periodically check the out put of the pump. It
is possible that it can corrode and need replacement after time. ~$40

2) Relay
....just a simple 4 prong 30amp relay like we use to "hot wire" the fuel
pump.~$3

3)Some kind of MAP switch. I used a switch that the digital dashed cars use to
turn on the red and orange dash lights under boost. This switch is very
adjustable via two screws on the back. When a certain boost is reached this
switch completes a ground. I adjusted mine to 10psi so that I was sure the
alky would be there before detonation. I used compressed air and my boost
guage to tune it in to 10psi. It has been w/ in one psi of ten everytime.
~$10used

4)Nozzel (injector) and jets.
I use NOS here, but it is entirely up to you. This is an area where your own
line of reasoning comes to play. I used a NOS 90degree nitrous nozzel. I did
this so that I could aim the injector INTO the air stream for better
atomization. It's far enough from the TB that I don't think turbulence is a
problem. Atomization is key, thats the reason for the high psi pump. NOS has
straight on nozzels too if you disagree with my reasoning. You'll also need a
nut to mount the nozzel. I think a metric fine thread nut at the hardware
store is what I used.. sorry, not sure what size but thats a starting point.
The nozzel won't thread all the way in but it only needs to be flush with the
nut seat. Jets: By a few of them, for you will be tuning. Try anything between
.025 and .035 flare type jets. I have mine dialed in pretty well with a .030
jet. It will be different for everyone I'm sure. If you are curious as to
whether you're to rich with alky, just look for clouds of steam behind you-:)
~$20

5) 14 guage wire. several feet..~$5

6) Plumbing to fit the NOS nozzel. It will be different for everyone as to
location of pump and nozzel.less than $15.

7) A Washer fluid tank that will fit in your engine compartment. Mine is out
of an old chevy truck and rests where the charcol canister used to be. It is
good to mount the pump lower than the tank so that it will keep its prime. A
washer fluid tank is nice due to the strainer in the pick up tube.less than
$5.

Installation..Finally:

Decide where you want to mount the nozzel. Somewhere in your up pipe from the
IC or the turbo for you 85 and older guys. I would suggest a place in the bend
of the up pipe so that the alky can atomize a bit more during the bend. Remove
the pipe and drill a 3/16" hole. I used JB's weld to bond the metric nut to
the outside of the tube. If you take your time it will look nice. If you have
a 90* nozzel, mark the spray side for ease of aim later on.

Next get your wiring figured out. I mounted my pump under the air filter.....
 NOTE: Do NOT let your pump touch any grounded metal. The plastic wheel well
is a great place for mounting. If you must mount it on metal you will have to
reverse the wiring i decribe later).... 
It was real close the alt. that way. I mounted ther presure switch on the pass
side fender, behind the puke tank, under the little guard. There should
already be holes for it to mount. Find a place to splice in the boost system
for your switch. I placed the relay right next to it for ease of wiring and
protection. The relay will be completing the ground for the pump. 
Wiring: 
1)Wire from NEG. post of PUMP to terminal 30
2)wire from a GOOD GROUND to terminal 87
3)wire from MAP switch to 86
4)wire from battery or other (+) to terminal 85
5) wire from alternator BAT post to POS pump terminal.

Wire routing is a thing of personal preferance. I mounted my one wire that
goes to the pump from the relay under the radiator support. If you have to
take things apart for installation, besure to reassemble frequently to check
for clearence...This is very important-:)

Now (24hrs later) the JB weld should be plenty hard to take stress from the
nozzel and complimentary plumbing. Place the nozzel in the hole and thread it
in until it is snug. Then back it off till it points in the desired direction,
via the mark you put on it earlier. Like I said, mine points into the air
stream. You should prolly use teflon tape to help seal it, since it won't be
real tight. It doesn't have to be that tight though. Now you have the nozzel
mounted, the up pipe on, the pump installed and wired...right <GRIN>.   

Next is plumbing the pump to the nozzel. First you need to place one of your
jets in your nozzel. It only fits one way....You can't screw it up.... The
fittings then hold the jet into the nozzel. Your on your own from here. I have
a front mount which leaves me a lot of room for plumbing. Keep tube routing in
mind while your mounting your pump and nozzel. You'll need to either order the
parts you need from NOS (or another nitrous supplier) or do what I did, and
find a local hydrolic specialist. The can generally make any kind of hose and
fitting you need. It's prolly cheaper to go to NOS though. A worm drive clamp
works great for holding the hose on to the pump. Keep in mind you'll be using
high pressure. No vaccuum lines-:) 

That is about everything. If you have any specific questions let me know. I
have had quite some fun with this setup. I run 9.5:1 and have experienced a
6psi increasse in boost with no knock. I have found that the thrasher chip did
not work as well as a good conventional after market chip. I use a 50/50
rubbing alky and water mix. Its cheap and i think that is the best mixture.
Thats my experience anyway.

I hope that a good start anyway. It's really pretty simple. Good luck. Like I
said let me know of any questions or clarification you may need..

Phil Verhaeghe
lcgn@aol.com
4.1L '87 GN





Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 09:52:42 1998
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Date: Fri, 01 May 1998 09:45:25 -0700
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: DYI Harness
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>The local vehicular recycling facilities (PC for junkyards) don't really
want to sell harnesses. Brain boxes and hubcaps OK but not harnesses. What
type wire is good for an engine harness? Is THHN or TFFN OK? Both are oil
resistant but how about temperature? What do the auto manufacturers use?


That kind of wire is fine, used both before depending on availability.  The
best choice is to find a junkyard that allows you to pull your own stuff...
and grab everything.

When I pulled the engine, power everything, transmission, door hinges, ECM,
wiring harness (bumper to bumper, and labeled it), I bought the ENTIRE CAR
and had it flatbedded to my garage... then, after I sawzalled the unibody
up, they came back and picked it up.  Was significantly cheaper than buying
individual parts, and it only took me a week to strip the car down to the
empty unibody.  I took everything that was not welded.  Even have a box of
unsorted nuts, bolts, and strange clips.

When you remove the harness, take a perminant marker and write a number on
the connector, and log the number and its function on paper... this way you
don't have to worry about masking tape or labels falling off when you snake
the wires through the old/new vehicles.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 10:33:01 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: METHANOL vs WATER INJECTION...
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 10:32:55 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Date: Friday, May 01, 1998 9:29 AM
Subject: METHANOL vs WATER INJECTION...


>might be a good time to ask whether methanol injection injection may have
increased benefits over water injection.  Methanol would seem to have
similar intake charge cooling properties, and yet it is combustible too...
>wouldn't this acheive a better result?


I tried that in the steady state humidifier rig, no real change.
Also was barely noticeable, in the upon demand normally
aspirated.
  In the turbo stuff, using water was good as gold.  Then
quickly got to where EGT, told us when to stop.
Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 11:29:17 1998
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Subject: Re: METHANOL vs WATER INJECTION...
To: diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 11:32:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <3.0.5.32.19980501224744.007a0100@mail.qonline.com.au> from "Matthew Harding" at May 1, 98 10:47:44 pm
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> 
> might be a good time to ask whether methanol injection injection may have
> increased benefits over water injection.  Methanol would seem to have
> similar intake charge cooling properties, and yet it is combustible too...
> 
> wouldn't this acheive a better result?
> 
it will work but you will have to lan the mixuture out as you add the alcohol
approx 1/2 the volume of alcohol that you add

Clive 


From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 12:39:05 1998
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Hey Tony,

 Let me expand on your answer a little so the binarily inpaired can 
 understand :)

 FD (Hex) is 1111 1101 in binary. This means from what Bruce has discovered 
       this bit ^  at address 050D controls the vss diagnostic.
 F9 (hex) =  1111 1001 and
    this bit ^  is the knock diagnostic ie 0111 1001 = 79 hex
 39 (hex) = 0011 1001
    this bit  ^  is the egr diagnostic ie 0001 1001 = 19 hex

  My hat is off to Bruce (How in the heck did you find this ??) 

The question is does clearing these bit(s) disable these functions or
does it just turn off the error reporting ??

Mike D. 

 from what Bruce has found   
> From diy_efi-owner@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu Fri May  1 06:22 CDT 1998
> From: Tony Cooper <tony.cooper@virgin.net>
> 
> Bruce - Please excuse me if you already understand this, but the numbers
> shown below are bit fields within bytes.
> 
> Sorry if I am typin the bleedin obvious on this one.
> TTFN
> Tony
> 
> Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> > Again please read all prior 101 text before trying to interupt this
> > as a complete thought.
> >
> > I'm going to give a few examples of what a set of malfunction
> > code flags look like and how they change in a given application.
> >
> > If we were to look a 747 bin file with a hex editor, we might see
> >
> > 050D     050E     050F
> >   FD         39          F9    would be stock
> >   FC         39          F9   would be no vss diagnostics (code 24)
> >   FD         39          79   would be no knock (code 43)
> >   FD         19          F9   would be no egr (code 32)
> > I hope this shines a tad more light on the issue.  Also note
> > how unique the pattern seems against all the other table
> > stuff.
> >
> > Also, an address might better discribe 16 bytes, and an
> > address of say 0000+0001, rather than a location of say
> > 0000..
> >
> > Cheers
> > Bruce       We need a Cone Shaped Hat representative in
> >                  washington, DC by the year 2000.  If I start
> >                  walking now I might make it in time..
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Sent By Tony Cooper.
> email: tony.cooper@virgin.net
> Allow at least 10 working minutes for reply. ;)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 13:03:48 1998
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References: <199805011248.IAA00278@mail.enter.net>
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Randy,
	Thanks for the fax. I just got back from my friend's shop (spent the
night there). All I need to wire is the TPS and the ignition input.
Would've been running last night, except the fuel rail didn't arrive
till around 10-ish.

Thanks again,
Ed

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 13:31:46 1998
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From: "Dave Balfour" <balfour@bushnell.net>
To: <diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: METHANOL vs WATER INJECTION...
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 12:34:06 -0500
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The term is the "latent heat of evaporation" I believe. The meth
should be injected at the throttle body for maximum charge. The
cooling effect is a way of packing more molecules of O2 in the
cylinders. BTW that was an excellent report Fredrick
dave balfour
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, May 01, 1998 10:13 AM
Subject: Re: METHANOL vs WATER INJECTION...


|
|-----Original Message-----
|From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
|Date: Friday, May 01, 1998 9:29 AM
|Subject: METHANOL vs WATER INJECTION...
|
|
|>might be a good time to ask whether methanol injection injection may
have
|increased benefits over water injection.  Methanol would seem to have
|similar intake charge cooling properties, and yet it is combustible
too...
|>wouldn't this acheive a better result?
|
|
|I tried that in the steady state humidifier rig, no real change.
|Also was barely noticeable, in the upon demand normally
|aspirated.
|  In the turbo stuff, using water was good as gold.  Then
|quickly got to where EGT, told us when to stop.
|Cheers
|Bruce
|


From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 15:22:55 1998
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From: mdill@lsil.com (Mike Dillon)
Message-Id: <199805011922.OAA24092@mms10>
To: diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Fw: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
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I am not sure that you want or would be able to get water into the cylinder
"wet" in liquid form. Then once there how are you going to keep it from 
 vaporizing prior to TDC and just incressing the negative work needed to 
 compress it ? Maybe with a direct injection set up like a diesel fuel injection
 set to inject sometime just before TDC It might yeild some return, It might 
 just go though a lot of water also) Lets see bump the comp. ratio for better
 efficincy add some water-alcohol (Need to  alcohol so the water won't freeze in winter)
 so it does not ping, then just before TDC inject more water and how will this 
 effect the flame front ? It sounds like a good research project enayone want to 
 fund me ?

Mike D.   

> From diy_efi-owner@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu Thu Apr 30 23:09 CDT 1998
> Return-Path: <diy_efi-owner@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> From: Strasser <strasser@mci2000.com>
> 
> I too am considering this as a mileage enhancement.  I would have to discuss
> the potential gains for increasing the water input rate above that which is
> required for stopping detonation.  Since the engine utilizes such a small
> fraction of usable mechanical energy from the combustion of fuel, alot
> escapes the exhaust (among other places...)  By injecting more water, the
> normally-wasted heat energy is utilized to induce a phase change in the
> water from liquid to vapor, which obviously raises combustion chamber
> pressures since water (at STP) expands by a factor of ~ 1400 when
> evaporated.  Obviously, there is some optimum point here, since the
> existence of water molecules in the chamber impedes radical electron
> transfer processes and drops temperatures (hence the impact on detonation).
> not sure where that optimum is....comments from all?
> 
> 
> Wayne Strasser
> Chemical Engineer
> EFI Patent Pending
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Thursday, April 30, 1998 4:15 PM
> Subject: Re: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
> 
> 
> From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Subject: RE: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
> 
> 
> >I hope you didn't bite while you were writing this... Your tongue was
> >obviously firmly planted in your cheek. As for what it has to do with
> >injection... Nothing, except for the original email message (this is about
> a
> >fifth or sixth generation reply, and the stuff about EFI have gradually
> been removed as
> 
> >build a simple "home made" water injection system, and how much water
> should
> >I use? Can I simply splice another injector into an injector control line
> >(in parallel), and use another fuel pump to pressurise the water?
> >
> >Danny Barrett.
> >
> >
> I beleive Sir Harry Ricard used 30-50% of fuel volume as a norm.
> (this figure may have been primarily for turbo/supercharged appl).
> Lots of folks have used a windshield washer tank/motor as a
> dispenser (use a check valve so low manifold vacuum doesn't
> draw it out).  Also anything more than just enough to get rid of the
> detonation is a waste of fluid.  No real gains past that.  Might
> be more info in archives, about this.  ie injector types methods.
> Cheers
> Bruce
> 
> 
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 15:37:56 1998
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From: Kevin Vannorsdel <kv@us.ibm.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Adaptor from GM TBI to AN line
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Rumor has it that one can buy an adaptor that will screw into the strange
o-ring metric fuel fitting on a GM TBI  (and others) and allow you to hook a
standard AN fitting on the other end.

I haven't been able to find a WWW page for Earls yet to check with them for a
part number...   anyone have a URL for them or any other info?

Thanks!!



________________________________________________
  Kevin Vannorsdel     IBM Arm Electronics Development
    408-256-6492                Tie 276-6492     kv@us.ibm.com

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 16:01:39 1998
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From: Kevin Vannorsdel <kv@us.ibm.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: DISREGARD PREVIOUS REQUEST Adaptor from GM TBI to AN line
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Well, I used good old fashioned 1-800-555-1212 to get the number for Earls...

1-800-421-2712

They have adaptors for 14,16 and 18mm thread diameters

Earls P/N

14 991954
16 991955
18 991956


Note sure which ones I need yet but that shouldn't be too difficult.




________________________________________________
  Kevin Vannorsdel     IBM Arm Electronics Development
    408-256-6492                Tie 276-6492     kv@us.ibm.com


---------------------- Forwarded by Kevin Vannorsdel/San Jose/IBM on 05/01/98
12:58 PM ---------------------------

Kevin Vannorsdel

05/01/98 12:37 PM
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu@ internet
cc:
From: Kevin Vannorsdel/San Jose/IBM @ IBMUS
Subject: Adaptor from GM TBI to AN line



Rumor has it that one can buy an adaptor that will screw into the strange
o-ring metric fuel fitting on a GM TBI  (and others) and allow you to hook a
standard AN fitting on the other end.

I haven't been able to find a WWW page for Earls yet to check with them for a
part number...   anyone have a URL for them or any other info?

Thanks!!



________________________________________________
  Kevin Vannorsdel     IBM Arm Electronics Development
    408-256-6492                Tie 276-6492     kv@us.ibm.com



From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 18:22:15 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Clarifications on last Programming 101+ Dragging it out
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 18:22:31 -0400
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Subject: Re: Clarifications on last Programming 101
>
> Let me expand on your answer a little so the binarily inpaired can
> understand :)
> FD (Hex) is 1111 1101 in binary. This means from what Bruce has discovered


I DID NOT DISCOVER THIS, a list member shared it with me,  this
is far beyond my mental abilities.

It also is mentioned in the "Net", but ya gotta dig for it.  BTW, I've
mentioned where in numerous postings.  So while alot of what
I write is obvious, ya gotta look real close, for the finer points.
The bits are mentioned elsewhere, and the member explained
the correlation to the error code.  Then I wrote to others to "get it"
again.  This was a matter of digging for months, and writting to
others (many).  And finding others to talk about it.

THIS IS WHY I"M DRAGGING IT OUT, cause it takes a ton,
of time to gather all the snippets, and follow them around.
I'm also following leads on future projects.   This list has
many gifted folks, I just got time to type.

>       this bit ^  at address 050D controls the vss diagnostic.
> F9 (hex) =  1111 1001 and
>    this bit ^  is the knock diagnostic ie 0111 1001 = 79 hex
> 39 (hex) = 0011 1001
>    this bit  ^  is the egr diagnostic ie 0001 1001 = 19 hex
>
>  My hat is off to Bruce (How in the heck did you find this ??)
>
>The question is does clearing these bit(s) disable these
functions or does it just turn off the error reporting ??
>
>Mike D.
>
I've spent a bunch of time being a pest, and writting to folks
trying to get the pieces to the puzzle.  The info in the tuning
stuff I wrote was basically "from my experiences".  Alot (most)
this ecm stuff is from others, hence some errors in my
interuption of things....

Turning the malfunction flags off stops an error code from
being stored, and when the diagnostic test is run by the
ecm and it fails, it doesn't got into the limp home mode.

Some tests aren't run, but some others are (see archives
for the particulars).
  It doesn't turn off the operation of say a egr valve solenoid
apply signal, that is another "switch".
  Another test of say EST still does the momentary addition
of advance to the timing but when the EST reports the knock is present, it's
says OK, or if not present OK, and goes back to
other ecm functions..
  Hope this helps to clarify the clarification.
Cheers
Bruce  Again I have no formal electronics training other than
            at the vocational level, I'm no EE or Software Pro.  I'm
            just sharing what I've found and OTHERS have told me.
            I've tried to verify when possible, all that I've stated.



From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 18:37:25 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: ADAPTERS from GM TBI to AN line
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 18:37:41 -0400
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From: Kevin Vannorsdel <kv@us.ibm.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, May 01, 1998 4:47 PM
Subject: DISREGARD PREVIOUS REQUEST Adaptor from GM TBI to AN line


>Well, I used good old fashioned 1-800-555-1212 to get the number for
Earls...
>
>1-800-421-2712
>
>They have adaptors for 14,16 and 18mm thread diameters
>
>Earls P/N
>
>14 991954
>16 991955
>18 991956
>
>
Also, be advised on some of these Adapters that you remove
the hex steel adapter that threads into the housing that couples
the line with the O-Ring fitting.  So you have an adapter that
replaces the oem fitting, and then the AN fastens to that.
Cheers
Bruce


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From: d houlton x0710  <tc75918@hpnfssvr.mdhc.mdc.com>
Message-Id: <199805012243.PAA22125@hprs9.mdhc.mdc.com>
Subject: Re: Supercharged 3800
To: diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 15:43:26 -0700 (MST)
In-Reply-To: <01bd74bf$4466b840$20198fd1@nacelp> from "Bruce Plecan" at May 1, 98 01:09:07 am
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Helicopter
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
> To: 'diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Friday, May 01, 1998 12:52 AM
> Subject: RE: Supercharged 3800
> 
> 
>   All blowers need some lubrication.   If the TB is upstream of the
> blower than the engine vacuum is going to try and draw this lube
> into the intake charge when closing the butterflies at high rpm.
> If the butterflies are below the blower it sees no vacuum during
> this period of overrun.


Conversely, if the TB is downstream of the blower, then when going from
full throttle and boost to suddenly closing the throttles creates a 
reverse pressure pulse that may damage the blower.  i.e.  The blower's
still pumping air, but it has nowhere to go because the butterfiles are
closed.  It's a good idea to add a blow-off valve that routes the extra
air back to the intake of the blower to prevent damage until it has a
chance to wind down.  Of course, if you don't have a MAF sensor upstream
of the blow-off valve, you could just vent the extra to atmosphere as
well without screwing up the A/F ratio.

--Dan

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 19:27:09 1998
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You are doing a great job explaining just keep pushing on Bruce.

Steve

Bruce Plecan wrote:

> Subject: Re: Clarifications on last Programming 101
> >
> > Let me expand on your answer a little so the binarily inpaired can
> > understand :)
> > FD (Hex) is 1111 1101 in binary. This means from what Bruce has
> discovered
>
> I DID NOT DISCOVER THIS, a list member shared it with me,  this
> is far beyond my mental abilities.
>
> It also is mentioned in the "Net", but ya gotta dig for it.  BTW, I've
>
> mentioned where in numerous postings.  So while alot of what
> I write is obvious, ya gotta look real close, for the finer points.
> The bits are mentioned elsewhere, and the member explained
> the correlation to the error code.  Then I wrote to others to "get it"
>
> again.  This was a matter of digging for months, and writting to
> others (many).  And finding others to talk about it.
>
> THIS IS WHY I"M DRAGGING IT OUT, cause it takes a ton,
> of time to gather all the snippets, and follow them around.
> I'm also following leads on future projects.   This list has
> many gifted folks, I just got time to type.
>
> >       this bit ^  at address 050D controls the vss diagnostic.
> > F9 (hex) =  1111 1001 and
> >    this bit ^  is the knock diagnostic ie 0111 1001 = 79 hex
> > 39 (hex) = 0011 1001
> >    this bit  ^  is the egr diagnostic ie 0001 1001 = 19 hex
> >
> >  My hat is off to Bruce (How in the heck did you find this ??)
> >
> >The question is does clearing these bit(s) disable these
> functions or does it just turn off the error reporting ??
> >
> >Mike D.
> >
> I've spent a bunch of time being a pest, and writting to folks
> trying to get the pieces to the puzzle.  The info in the tuning
> stuff I wrote was basically "from my experiences".  Alot (most)
> this ecm stuff is from others, hence some errors in my
> interuption of things....
>
> Turning the malfunction flags off stops an error code from
> being stored, and when the diagnostic test is run by the
> ecm and it fails, it doesn't got into the limp home mode.
>
> Some tests aren't run, but some others are (see archives
> for the particulars).
>   It doesn't turn off the operation of say a egr valve solenoid
> apply signal, that is another "switch".
>   Another test of say EST still does the momentary addition
> of advance to the timing but when the EST reports the knock is
> present, it's
> says OK, or if not present OK, and goes back to
> other ecm functions..
>   Hope this helps to clarify the clarification.
> Cheers
> Bruce  Again I have no formal electronics training other than
>             at the vocational level, I'm no EE or Software Pro.  I'm
>             just sharing what I've found and OTHERS have told me.
>             I've tried to verify when possible, all that I've stated.




From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 19:44:40 1998
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To: diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Supercharged 3800
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>Conversely, if the TB is downstream of the blower, then when going from
>full throttle and boost to suddenly closing the throttles creates a 
>reverse pressure pulse that may damage the blower.  i.e.  The blower's

That's where HKS's blow-off valve offers some protection (for example).
Its not uncommon for very high performance turbo cars to have both a
turbo-bypass (wastegate) as well as the wastegate for the intake side of
things... the same theory applies to supercharging.  Like you said, air has
to go somewhere.

>closed.  It's a good idea to add a blow-off valve that routes the extra
>air back to the intake of the blower to prevent damage until it has a

Maybe I should have read your entire message before replying :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 19:57:40 1998
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From: "Derek Jewett" <djewett@snowcrest.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: DIY'ers EPROM Burner
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 16:58:44 -0700
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Hey Steve,

Let me know what software you're going to lay out the PCB with..? I have
been working on one using PCTrace for weeks now with no luck! I made a test
prototype on vero board, but I can't get a good layout... Could you send me
a copy of your layout when you finish? For such a simple design it sure is
a bitch to layout, but then again I am way ameture when it comes to
layouts!

Thanks!

----------
> From: Steven Ciciora <scicior@uswest.com>
> To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: re: DIY'ers EPROM Burner
> Date: Wednesday, April 29, 1998 11:38 AM
> 
> I plan on laying out a PCB and putting together a kit for the below. 
> I'm going to offer it at cost, and am trying to get it as cheap as
> possible.  So if your construction skills are marginal or are not as
> experienced as others, if you wait a few weeks, I should be announcing
> more details.  Depending on a lot of things (such as ZIF sockets, power
> supply, etc) I'm hoping for the cost to be under $30.  Now if only
> someone could find a bunch of $15 eprom erasers...
> 
> Steven Ciciora
> 
> P.S. I already have an eprom programmer for my self; my only motivation
> is to contribute what I can to the Loyal Order of the Cone Shaped Hat.
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> From: "Derek Jewett" <djewett@snowcrest.net>
> Date: Tue, 28 Apr 1998 20:23:08 -0700
> Subject: DIY'ers EPROM Burner
> 
> Ok the 2732 update has been added to the DIY'ers EPROM burner. Please
> note
> that the 2732 hack has not been tested as of yet, but the unit works
> fine
> for burning 27128/256/512,etc... It is a hobbyists grade plan so the
> plans
> are a little akward, if you have trouble reading the hand drawn
> schematics
> let me know I have a well laid out schemaic I can save as a metafile and
> send you a copy. This project was originaly intended for burning video
> game
> cartriges and turned into a more "generic" burner I thought would be
> usefull for any DIY'er wanting to read/burn his own chips for fun. As
> you
> will see the design is incredibly simple, and flexible, even for cone
> shaped hat wearers!. Enjoy!
> 
> 
> The specific URL for the EPROMr FAQ page is
> <http://www.zws.com/products/epromr_faq.html>, however most of you will
> want to go to <http://www.zws.com/products/bin/epromr.zip> and download
> the
> new version of the software archive (approx. 555K). This zip file also
> contains the FAQ document.
> 
> 
> Derek 
> PS Soon to be added a DIY'ers plan for making your own cone shaped
> hat!!!!!
> 
> ------------------------------

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 20:00:13 1998
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From: James Weiler <james@brc.ubc.ca>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Subject: Re: Adaptor from GM TBI to AN line
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Don't know about that but the other way is possible.  That is you can 
have an AN line and get an adapter that will alow the use of a GM style 
fuel filter.
hth
jw
 

On Fri, 1 May 1998, Kevin Vannorsdel wrote:

> 
> 
> Rumor has it that one can buy an adaptor that will screw into the strange
> o-ring metric fuel fitting on a GM TBI  (and others) and allow you to hook a
> standard AN fitting on the other end.
> 
> I haven't been able to find a WWW page for Earls yet to check with them for a
> part number...   anyone have a URL for them or any other info?
> 
> Thanks!!
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________________________
>   Kevin Vannorsdel     IBM Arm Electronics Development
>     408-256-6492                Tie 276-6492     kv@us.ibm.com
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 21:28:22 1998
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Date: Fri, 01 May 1998 21:28:09 -0700
From: Strasser <strasser@mci2000.com>
Subject: Fw: Fw: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
To: DIY <DIY_EFI@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Mike:

Yes, I agree ...research project

Timing water phase change requires work.  We all know that the rate of
evaporation of a liquid dropplet suspended in a gas phase is a function of
the following variables:  local turbulence, local temperature gradients,
local pressure surfaces, and dropplet size.  Vaporization is driven by
fugacities of the gas phase versus the liquid phase.  Experimentation would
have to be done with both dropplet size and injection temperature.

Wayne Strasser
Chemical Engineer
EFI Patent Pending

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Dillon <mdill@lsil.com>
To: diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, May 01, 1998 1:38 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...


I am not sure that you want or would be able to get water into the cylinder
"wet" in liquid form. Then once there how are you going to keep it from
vaporizing prior to TDC and just incressing the negative work needed to
compress it ? Maybe with a direct injection set up like a diesel fuel
injection
set to inject sometime just before TDC It might yeild some return, It might
just go though a lot of water also) Lets see bump the comp. ratio for better
efficincy add some water-alcohol (Need to  alcohol so the water won't freeze
in winter)
so it does not ping, then just before TDC inject more water and how will
this
effect the flame front ? It sounds like a good research project enayone want
to
fund me ?

Mike D.

> From diy_efi-owner@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu Thu Apr 30 23:09 CDT 1998
> Return-Path: <diy_efi-owner@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> From: Strasser <strasser@mci2000.com>
>
> I too am considering this as a mileage enhancement.  I would have to
discuss
> the potential gains for increasing the water input rate above that which
is
> required for stopping detonation.  Since the engine utilizes such a small
> fraction of usable mechanical energy from the combustion of fuel, alot
> escapes the exhaust (among other places...)  By injecting more water, the
> normally-wasted heat energy is utilized to induce a phase change in the
> water from liquid to vapor, which obviously raises combustion chamber
> pressures since water (at STP) expands by a factor of ~ 1400 when
> evaporated.  Obviously, there is some optimum point here, since the
> existence of water molecules in the chamber impedes radical electron
> transfer processes and drops temperatures (hence the impact on
detonation).
> not sure where that optimum is....comments from all?
>
>
> Wayne Strasser
> Chemical Engineer
> EFI Patent Pending
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Thursday, April 30, 1998 4:15 PM
> Subject: Re: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
>
>
> From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Subject: RE: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
>
>
> >I hope you didn't bite while you were writing this... Your tongue was
> >obviously firmly planted in your cheek. As for what it has to do with
> >injection... Nothing, except for the original email message (this is
about
> a
> >fifth or sixth generation reply, and the stuff about EFI have gradually
> been removed as
>
> >build a simple "home made" water injection system, and how much water
> should
> >I use? Can I simply splice another injector into an injector control line
> >(in parallel), and use another fuel pump to pressurise the water?
> >
> >Danny Barrett.
> >
> >
> I beleive Sir Harry Ricard used 30-50% of fuel volume as a norm.
> (this figure may have been primarily for turbo/supercharged appl).
> Lots of folks have used a windshield washer tank/motor as a
> dispenser (use a check valve so low manifold vacuum doesn't
> draw it out).  Also anything more than just enough to get rid of the
> detonation is a waste of fluid.  No real gains past that.  Might
> be more info in archives, about this.  ie injector types methods.
> Cheers
> Bruce
>
>
>
>



From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 21:28:22 1998
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Date: Fri, 01 May 1998 21:11:13 -0700
From: Strasser <strasser@mci2000.com>
Subject: Fw: Supercharged 3800
To: DIY <DIY_EFI@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Peter:

It does indeed make a difference wether it is upstream or downstream...all
of which depends on where the sonic bottleneck is.  If the TB is the largest
pressure loss (area of highest characteristic Reynolds number, converting
potential energy to kinetic rotational energy), then you want an upstream
"push" instead of a downstream"pull".  This, again, assumes you do not want
to change your TB size.  If you would go with a larger TB, you can get
massive gains both ways.  If not, like I said, it would be better upstream.
For any given restriction, raising upstream pressure continues to increase
mass flow across said restriction with no asymptote.  On the other hand,
lowering downstream pressure continues to increase mass flow UNTIL the flow
is sonic or "choked".  After the flow is choked, you can hook up an 5000 HP
industrial vacuum blower on the downstream, and nothing more will happen.
Again, I stress that this is assuming you dont change area of said orifice
(TB).

All the above also depends on where you are in the load/speed range.  For
example, if you are at low RPM but high TPS, then your intake charge
produces little mean velocity across the TB.  An S/C downstream WOULD be
beneficial BECAUSE the flow across the TB is nowhere near sonic.  But...as
you increase RPM and the speed across the TB increases, your blower would
have less and less impact.

I tried to cram alot in this note...sorry if it all kinda runs together.

Thanks for the chat.



Wayne Strasser
Chemical Engineer
EFI Patent Pending

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: 'diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 30, 1998 10:15 PM
Subject: RE: Supercharged 3800


Thanks for the reply,

What would be the difference if the SC is mounted downstream (i.e after)
compared to upstream (i.e before) the throttle body - to me it seems almost
the same i.e interms of throttle body restriction, 10 psi vaccum after the
TB vs 10 psi of pressure before the TB would result in the same flow across
the TB.

For me, mounting the SC after the TB would make for a cleaner install.

BTW to all those interested, I can get the Eaton as fitted to the S/C 3800
for AUS$950 across the local parts counter.

Peter

----------
From: Strasser
Sent: Friday, May 01, 1998 4:14 PM
To: DIY
Subject: Fw: Supercharged 3800

If you mount your S/C downstream of your TB,  it seems you will see little
top end gain unless you increase your TB size.  Once the pressure drop
across your TB reaches a maximum (in fluid dynamics terms, this is the
point
of "choking" -- sonic flow of a gas), it can "flow" no more...no matter
what
is pulling on the other side.  For example, in carbureted applications, the
installation of a roots type supercharger under the carb, requires
increasing size of carb.


Wayne Strasser
Chemical Engineer
EFI Patent Pending

-----Original Message-----
From: TBK <terryk@foothill.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, April 28, 1998 9:23 PM
Subject: Re: Supercharged 3800


The Eaton M-62 is ~$1700US new $1300 rebuilt. M-90 a little higher. Contact
www.eaton.com

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: 'DIY_EFI' <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, April 28, 1998 4:27 PM
Subject: Supercharged 3800


>Hi all,
>
>Q regrading S/C 3800.
>
>In Aus thay're fitted in Holdens. Drove one on the weekend in a LWB luxo
barge Statesman and was extremely surprised by the grunt as well as the
linear power delivery.
>
>Now, wanted to force induct my own earlier 3800, questions I have is if I
mount the S/C between the engine and throttle body (with the MAP sensor on
the throttle body), can I get away with running a 1 bar/atmo MAP sensor as
the MAP would never see boost.
>
>My only concern is the MAP may be subject to too much vacuum under hi
rev/lo TPS.
>
>Would this cause a problem?
>
>Any comments suggestions?
>
>Anyone Stateside know the price of a factory S/C for a 3800 - a local
importer here has a new one but wants $1800. I can buy a brand new complete
engine from Holden for approx $5000, which makes the $1800 for a bare S/C
seem a little high :-(
>
>
>
>




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From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 21:28:23 1998
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Date: Fri, 01 May 1998 21:16:49 -0700
From: Strasser <strasser@mci2000.com>
Subject: Fw: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
To: DIY <DIY_EFI@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Bruce:

Awesome info.  Thanks.  What % of the intake charge have you "scrubbed" with
water?
What kinda humidy (absolute) levels did you reach?

Also, what kinda setup did you have that could support/utilize 60 psi boost?


Wayne Strasser
Chemical Engineer
EFI Patent Pending

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 30, 1998 10:16 PM
Subject: Re: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...


From: Strasser <strasser@mci2000.com>
To: DIY <DIY_EFI@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 30, 1998 11:58 PM
Subject: Fw: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...


I too am considering this as a mileage enhancement.  I would have to discuss
the potential gains for increasing the water input rate above that which is
required for stopping detonation.

I beleive Sir Harry Ricard used 30-50% of fuel volume as a norm.
(this figure may have been primarily for turbo/supercharged appl).
Lots of folks have used a windshield washer tank/motor as a
dispenser (use a check valve so low manifold vacuum doesn't
draw it out).  Also anything more than just enough to get rid of the
detonation is a waste of fluid.  No real gains past that.  Might
be more info in archives, about this.  ie injector types methods.
Cheers
Bruce

Sir Harry Ricardo has covered it in more detail than I mentioned
his book "the High Speed Internal Combustion Engine", last
revision 1965,  is the best source of this, that I know of.
  I've seen no gain in MPG, and slight gains in HP in naturally
aspirated engines.  Now when ya talk turbos, I've had intakes
hot enough to cook paint off of (60 PSI, of boost), and it makes
a HUGE Increase in HP, when ya have the water right.  And the
30-50% figures hold true for diesel, and gas in my experiences.
  I've also tried a humidifier set up where a percentage of the
intake charge air was drawn from above a water trap type
device.
Cheers
Bruce



From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  1 23:11:11 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 23:11:28 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Strasser <strasser@mci2000.com>
To: DIY <DIY_EFI@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, May 01, 1998 10:43 PM
Subject: Fw: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...


Bruce:
Awesome info.  Thanks.  What % of the intake charge have you "scrubbed" with
water?

Quessing I'd say probably over 10% at idle, and 5-10 at light cruise.

What kinda humidy (absolute) levels did you reach?

I wouldn't be able to venture a guess.

Also, what kinda setup did you have that could support/utilize 60 psi boost?

436 CID Pro Stock Pulling Tractor.  Diesel Bosch positive
displacement Direct Cylinder Injection (1300ish PSI) water
injection at 200 PSI.  Fuel Consumption in the range of 2.5-
3 gals per 15 sec, and 1 gal of water.  EGT 1520s.  Released
from a standstill, Slipped the clutch at 6,000 rpm, and 60 PSI
5 disc clutch.  Single stage turbo.  Uses a V-8 engine starter
motor to spin the water pump for water injection.  Other details
classified (HEHE).

Wayne Strasser
Chemical Engineer
EFI Patent Pending

Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  2 00:51:40 1998
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From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
To: DIY <DIY_EFI@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Fw: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
Date: Sat, 2 May 1998 00:47:14 -0400
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Hi yall, it's good to be back.

Actually I really wanted to ask if anyone had any info about
injecting hydrogen peroxide, downstream of a turbo or SC. I'd like
to think with the right strength (30%?) you could get some of the
water-injection intercooling effect, but also some extra O2 from
the H2O2 breaking down. Hopefully it would all break down before
hitting the fuel, if not that'd probably be "bad", so it seems
like it's best suited to a low-efficiency SC and would only be
turned on above some temperature.

(Don't worry, I wouldn't do this any more than I'd do nitromethane
injection, I just wondered what people had to say about it.)

But while I'm here I can't resist this tidbit:

Wayne Strasser wrote:

> By injecting more water, the
> normally-wasted heat energy is utilized to induce a phase change in the
> water from liquid to vapor, which obviously raises combustion chamber
> pressures since water (at STP) expands by a factor of ~ 1400 when
> evaporated.  Obviously, there is some optimum point here, since the
> existence of water molecules in the chamber impedes radical electron
> transfer processes and drops temperatures (hence the impact on
> detonation).
> not sure where that optimum is....comments from all?

The problems are the high heat capacity of water and the high latent
heat of vaporization. You only get some number of kJ from burning
your cylinderfull of gas+air, and the water takes a great amount
of that heat to heat up and evaporate. Yes, it expands tremendously
when it does evaporate, and that's the only way you might come
out ahead, because otherwise that heat of evaporation will kill
you. It might help to have the water almost at boiling when you
inject it, but even so, compare water to some other hypothetical
fluid with a very low latent heat of vaporization. This other
fluid will use up much less energy evaporating, leaving much more
to heat & pressurize the just-evaporated gas.

(As an aside, does anyone have the actual figures for latent heat
of v. for water, the the heat capacity of air? I think the former
was something like 500cal/g but I'm really not sure. I'd love to
make some actual calculations of some of this stuff.)

OTOH it's exactly this high latent heat of v. that makes water
injection so great for intercooling.

Probably the optimum is somewhere near the point at which the
water is heated almost to evaporation just before entering the
cylinder. You get maximum usable intercooling (without diluting
your charge with a tremendous volume of water vapor), but during
combustion the water *does* vaporize, giving you the phase
transition, but for a minimum of required heat. Now if someone
can manage the perfect droplet size profile to achieve this...

(The above theoretical b.s. aside, yeah, it's a research project.)

   Chris C.

p.s. got a cone shaped hat on order just in case I flubbed this one.


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  2 03:50:54 1998
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Subject: Re: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
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Do these cars include the early models (ie. the VB/VC/VH/VK)???


>If you are serious about trying to make you Commodore more Aerodynamic, why
>don't you turn up to a round of the Australian AUSCAR series, where
>commodores make up more than half the feild,  and take a quick look under
>one of these cars.
>
>>From my experience with these cars I can say that there is very few
>modifications made to the underside of the vehicle (suspension excepted).
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  2 03:58:43 1998
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Subject: Re: Water/Akly Inj Recipe
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To "look" for a dud injector, try getting a piece of PVC or poly' pipe, and
pointing the end at each injector, respectively. You should hear the ticking
noise if it is in good order. if you hear more of a thudding noise, the
injector is either no good, or it is blocked...


>I had saved this message from the Buick Grand National list, from a gent
>named "Phil" who removed the detonation from his Turbo Buick 3.8/4.1L
>engine, via alky.  He can run significantly more boost because of the below
>methods.
>
>I tried it on my supercharged Lincoln, however backed the equipment off the
>car because I'm having a performance problem even without the supercharger
>blowing any air (I think I have a weak injector, but the car has 80K hard
>miles on it, so its reasonable).  Anyway, here is his recipe:


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  2 04:16:11 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: Fw: Fw: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
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G'day there, when I consider the things I've been taught in my physical
chemistry calsses (before college, and during my Engineering degree that I
am currently doing), the water should (I won't say will - I could be wrong)
stay in the liquid phase until after TDC. Look at the formula:

PV=nRT

P=pressure in Pascals
V=volume in m^3
n=amount of a gaseous mixture in moles
R=universal gas constant
T=trmperature in Kelvin.

Also, find a table of the boiling point/Vapor Pressure of water at a given
temperature.

Find your TDC pressure.

Find some value of maximum combustion heat (usually above about 900 deg C,
as NOx gases are produced).

If you know how to use the formula, you'll find that the water should remain
a liquid until well after TDC, even if it started off as a vapor before
compression. Of course, I could be wrong. But I did some calc's about a year
ago, and I found that you need a boiling point of about 40 deg C before a
gaseous substance will stay a gas at TDC. Of course, I will repeat again
that I could be WRONG, so it might still need to be researched.

Danny Barrett.

>Mike:
>
>Yes, I agree ...research project
>
>Timing water phase change requires work.  We all know that the rate of
>evaporation of a liquid dropplet suspended in a gas phase is a function of
>the following variables:  local turbulence, local temperature gradients,
>local pressure surfaces, and dropplet size.  Vaporization is driven by
>fugacities of the gas phase versus the liquid phase.  Experimentation would
>have to be done with both dropplet size and injection temperature.
>
>Wayne Strasser
>Chemical Engineer
>EFI Patent Pending
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  2 04:26:15 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: RE: Fw: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
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Firstly, H2O2 is ##**VERY CORROSIVE**##!!!!!!!!! I hope you kknow what
you're doing with it. You'll notice that the H2O2 you get from the hardware
store, etc is VERY DILUTE...

Secondly, on H2O injection... Vaporise it FIRST by running your water line
around the exhaust manifold. The water (from what I can tell) will still
turn back into droplets while being compressed (see my reply of just a few
minutes ago to another email), but, at least, it will already have enough
heat in it to reevaporate when the compression is low enough. Then, any
EXTRA heat it takes from the reaction should make it expand (it would
already be expanded to a certain extent before it is put into the engine.

Danny Barrett.




>Hi yall, it's good to be back.
>
>Actually I really wanted to ask if anyone had any info about
>injecting hydrogen peroxide, downstream of a turbo or SC. I'd like
>to think with the right strength (30%?) you could get some of the
>water-injection intercooling effect, but also some extra O2 from
>the H2O2 breaking down. Hopefully it would all break down before
>hitting the fuel, if not that'd probably be "bad", so it seems
>like it's best suited to a low-efficiency SC and would only be
>turned on above some temperature.
>
>(Don't worry, I wouldn't do this any more than I'd do nitromethane
>injection, I just wondered what people had to say about it.)
>
>But while I'm here I can't resist this tidbit:
>
>Wayne Strasser wrote:
>
>> By injecting more water, the
>> normally-wasted heat energy is utilized to induce a phase change in the
>> water from liquid to vapor, which obviously raises combustion chamber
>> pressures since water (at STP) expands by a factor of ~ 1400 when
>> evaporated.  Obviously, there is some optimum point here, since the
>> existence of water molecules in the chamber impedes radical electron
>> transfer processes and drops temperatures (hence the impact on
>> detonation).
>> not sure where that optimum is....comments from all?
>
>The problems are the high heat capacity of water and the high latent
>heat of vaporization. You only get some number of kJ from burning
>your cylinderfull of gas+air, and the water takes a great amount
>of that heat to heat up and evaporate. Yes, it expands tremendously
>when it does evaporate, and that's the only way you might come
>out ahead, because otherwise that heat of evaporation will kill
>you. It might help to have the water almost at boiling when you
>inject it, but even so, compare water to some other hypothetical
>fluid with a very low latent heat of vaporization. This other
>fluid will use up much less energy evaporating, leaving much more
>to heat & pressurize the just-evaporated gas.
>
>(As an aside, does anyone have the actual figures for latent heat
>of v. for water, the the heat capacity of air? I think the former
>was something like 500cal/g but I'm really not sure. I'd love to
>make some actual calculations of some of this stuff.)
>
>OTOH it's exactly this high latent heat of v. that makes water
>injection so great for intercooling.
>
>Probably the optimum is somewhere near the point at which the
>water is heated almost to evaporation just before entering the
>cylinder. You get maximum usable intercooling (without diluting
>your charge with a tremendous volume of water vapor), but during
>combustion the water *does* vaporize, giving you the phase
>transition, but for a minimum of required heat. Now if someone
>can manage the perfect droplet size profile to achieve this...
>
>(The above theoretical b.s. aside, yeah, it's a research project.)
>
>   Chris C.
>
>p.s. got a cone shaped hat on order just in case I flubbed this one.
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  2 04:37:18 1998
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Subject: Re: METHANOL vs WATER INJECTION...
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The "OH" on the end of methanol (which makes it an alcohol) may be corrosive
- You'll have to check this out. Look through the archives. There's a lot
there on water and alcohol injection...


>might be a good time to ask whether methanol injection injection may have
>increased benefits over water injection.  Methanol would seem to have
>similar intake charge cooling properties, and yet it is combustible too...
>
>wouldn't this acheive a better result?
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  2 07:46:12 1998
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To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Water/Akly Inj Recipe
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>To "look" for a dud injector, try getting a piece of PVC or poly' pipe, and
>pointing the end at each injector, respectively. You should hear the ticking
>noise if it is in good order. if you hear more of a thudding noise, the
>injector is either no good, or it is blocked...

I have a small collection of junkyard injectors, in sets of six, based on
their flow.  While I used gasoline for this test, its been suggested by
smarter folks that I had used other non-volitile substances for below test.

I have a 50A power supply, I made a simple circuit consisting of a 50A
power transistor, a resistor, and a parallel port connector.  I connected
the six injectors to a fuel rail/fuel pump which the in-tank pump sits in a
bucket of gasoline (or non-volitile substance).  I use a DOS noteboook to
pulse the transistor, which then pulses the injectors, which then fill up
six large, narrow beakers.  After one of them reach near the top of the
beaker fuel level wise, I stop and evaluate the other injectors.  Injectors
that flow about the same, got grouped together.

For beakers, I used those 7-day holiday candles, which are pyrex glass
about 3" wide and about a foot high, minus the candle wax.  (After you use
the candles up, you put the candle glass into a pot of stove-heated water,
and the wax comes right out, and they are about 2 bucks a pop, and less
hassle than ordering anything from Edmunds Scientific.

Instead of a PC parallel port, you could use a 555-timer set for a 50% duty
cycle.

I got the idea from one of the many car magazines... I saw an article on
injectors, and how they blueprint and measure the flow.  So, I slapped some
stuff together and simulated the basic idea.

Also, if you are going for the junkyard thing, try to find cars that have
been recently added to the junkyard pile...vehicles that have been sitting
for a long time usually have corroded injectors, which wastes your time.

Hope I helped.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  2 10:13:44 1998
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Finished wiring the car around 1:00 am today. I can't tell yet if
there's any bugs because upon priming the fuel pump, we found a fuel
leak coming from the top of one fuel injector. After tightening down a
bit more on the fuel rail mounts, the mentioned injector sealed fine,
but then another sprang a leak. Murphy's law strikes again! We hope the
dyno shop may be able to modify or machine us a new rail, since he
mentioned they have an in-house CNC machine.

-Ed

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  2 11:50:38 1998
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From: "Nadia" <nadejda@videotron.ca>
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Subject: ECM for GM Corsica 88 2.8L
Date: Sat, 2 May 1998 11:50:01 -0700
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Hi everybody !

Does somebody now what command I need to send to ALDL line to start data
dump from ECM? My specific  model is GM Corsica 88 2.8L V6.
All the time I have only logical "1" from this serial line.
I tried "0K" and "3.9K" modes so far.

Thanks,
George



From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  2 12:19:44 1998
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Date: Sat, 2 May 1998 12:10:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Fw: Fw: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
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I follow your reasoning, but I don't follow your use of the ideal gas
law.

You are saying (correct me if I am wrong) that the pressure at TDC is
high enough to keep the water in the liquid phase because the boiling
point is so high at that pressure.

As the piston drops and the pressure tries to fall, more water will flash
into steam, keeping the pressure higher than it would be without the
water.  This will increase the power output.  The trick is to inject the
proper amount of water.  You would want to run out of water on the way
down so that the pressure can drop before the exhaust valve opens.

To get an idea if this will work, you'll have to look at a steam table. 
That table lists the boiling point of water at various pressures.  You
can also get the mass density of the steam at various temperatures and
pressures.  You would normally use the ideal gas law (PV=nRT) to
calculate this, but steam isn't an ideal gas until you get well above the
boiling temperature at that pressure.

Even nitrogen and oxygen aren't ideal gases at room temperature and
pressure.  They're really close, though.  We did an experiment in
chemistry class where we did some measurements and compared them to the
ideal gas law.  They were off by a few tenths of a percent.  We then used
Van Der Wal's non-ideal gas formula to calculate the expeted pressure and
volume and found it to match the ideal gas law to within about six or
seven significent figures.  The difference was trivial compared to our
experimental error.

That isn't the case with steam.  The differences are significent.

I'm sure that someone on the list can tell us what the typical and
maximum temperatures and pressures are at TDC.  Also, maybe someone can
point us to a steam table somewhere on the web.

Hmmm... I just thought of something:
If injecting water results in a lower exhaust temperature, more heat will
be used to power the engine and less will be wasted out the exhaust.  If
the water is vaporizing as the piston drops (as explained above), the
exhaust temperature will be lower because the water is absorbing the
heat.


Ray Drouillard, BSEE



On Sat, 2 May 1998 18:16:05 +1000 (EST) danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au
(Danny Barrett) writes:
>G'day there, when I consider the things I've been taught in my physical
>chemistry calsses (before college, and during my Engineering degree that
I
>am currently doing), the water should (I won't say will - I could be
wrong)
>stay in the liquid phase until after TDC. Look at the formula:
>
>PV=nRT
>
>P=pressure in Pascals
>V=volume in m^3
>n=amount of a gaseous mixture in moles
>R=universal gas constant
>T=trmperature in Kelvin.
>
>Also, find a table of the boiling point/Vapor Pressure of water at a
given
>temperature.
>
>Find your TDC pressure.
>
>Find some value of maximum combustion heat (usually above about 900 deg
C,
>as NOx gases are produced).
>
>If you know how to use the formula, you'll find that the water should
remain
>a liquid until well after TDC, even if it started off as a vapor before
>compression. Of course, I could be wrong. But I did some calc's about a
year
>ago, and I found that you need a boiling point of about 40 deg C before
a
>gaseous substance will stay a gas at TDC. Of course, I will repeat again
>that I could be WRONG, so it might still need to be researched.
>
>Danny Barrett.
>
>>Mike:
>>
>>Yes, I agree ...research project
>>
>>Timing water phase change requires work.  We all know that the rate of
>>evaporation of a liquid dropplet suspended in a gas phase is a function
of
>>the following variables:  local turbulence, local temperature
gradients,
>>local pressure surfaces, and dropplet size.  Vaporization is driven by
>>fugacities of the gas phase versus the liquid phase.  Experimentation
would
>>have to be done with both dropplet size and injection temperature.
>>
>>Wayne Strasser
>>Chemical Engineer
>>EFI Patent Pending

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From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  2 13:11:17 1998
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Date: Sat, 02 May 1998 13:10:56 -0400
From: Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
Subject: Blown fuel/timing maps
To: "Third-Gen@f-body.org" <Third-Gen@f-body.org>, blown <blown@f-body.org>,
        DIY_EFI <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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For all you turboed and supercharged V8's out there... As most of you
know, the twin turboes will be going on the IROC this week. I need to
get a ballpark fuel and timing map for the DFI so I don't blow up the
engine the first time out. If you have any of these maps, or tips on how
to make one (do I just increase the pulsewidth at WOT by the pressure
ratio?) I'd really appreciate it. TIA!

Andris

-- 
*********Skulte Performance Designs---WWW.SKULTE.COM**********
      Your third and fourth generation f-body specialists
******89 IROC M5 305TPI---13.5@104.1--320 hp/475 ft-lbs*******

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  2 14:33:43 1998
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From: Anibal Aguirre <anibal.aguirre@roche.com.ar>
To: "'DIY_EFI'" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: PRO ENGINE& others prog.
Date: Sat, 2 May 1998 15:31:34 -0300
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hi friends:I'm new in the list..........
I'don't have many experience with the ECU's  but I want to crack it...
I have a PROENGINE SOFTWARE  and others similar....
they show a lot of curves as representation of address and data...but the
question is!!! where I can get info about where is the desired data (hi rpm level,
advance...) in the proengine representation....
where (internet address) I can find people that "work" in the ecu cracking???

any replay(by mail) will be pleased.
thanks for your time

						sincerely
anibal



From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  2 16:01:07 1998
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From: Chris Vandrachek <chrisv@egr.up.edu>
To: "'DIY_EFI'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Points ignition and EFI? (HELP!)
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Has anybody in EFI land ever heard of a standard pts igntion system being
used with an EFI system.  I am designing a system based on a Motorola HC12
and need to know if the noise from points ignition will cause problems.  I
am working with a time crunch so I don't have time to convert to
electronic igntion.  What can I do to minimize this kind of noise?  
	
Any kind of advice would be greatly appreciated!  

Chris Vondrachek
chrisv@egr.up.edu



From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  2 16:28:27 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Blown fuel/timing maps
Date: Sat, 2 May 1998 16:28:44 -0400
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From: Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
Subject: Blown fuel/timing maps


>For all you turboed and supercharged V8's out there... As most of you
>know, the twin turboes will be going on the IROC this week. I need to
>get a ballpark fuel and timing map for the DFI so I don't blow up the
>engine the first time out.

The best I could offer would be coping something off a syty (749)
fuel/timing map and passing that along. 
Come to think of it I guess could do the same for timing off a Buick
V-6 for timing, it's maf
The syty is a 4.3 (2/3 of SBC) so it might be best, let me know,
it's a all typing exercise, so ain't gonna be instant (ie day or 2).
No worries mate
Bruce


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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: PRO ENGINE& others prog.
Date: Sat, 2 May 1998 16:34:48 -0400
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From: Anibal Aguirre <anibal.aguirre@roche.com.ar>
Subject: PRO ENGINE& others prog.


>hi friends:I'm new in the list..........
>I'don't have many experience with the ECU's  but I want to crack it...
>I have a PROENGINE SOFTWARE

What is this,  an engine simulator?.

 and others similar....
>they show a lot of curves as representation of address and data...but the
>question is!!! where I can get info about where is the desired data (hi rpm
level,
>advance...) in the proengine representation....
>where (internet address) I can find people that "work" in the ecu
cracking???
>
If your looking for "cracked ecms" ya might look at the syty area,
and at the Buick Turbo Home Page.  We have an ongoing project
of finding table locations on the gm 747 (TBI V-6-8) ecm.
What are you working one, and what do you want to do?.
Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  2 16:43:04 1998
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What ECU's are you planning on craking ?  Can you describe your software 
some more?  What does it do?  Is it an emulator?
later
jw


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  2 20:39:10 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: Fw: Fw: Holden Commodore, Aerodynamics. AND NOW: WATER INJECTION...
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I see your point about the ideal gas law. Yes, it is only an approximation
to a real gas, but the "real gas law" is a bit harder to use if you can't
find the various extra constants, so the ideal gas law is better than
nothing. However, as you say, a steam table would be by the best idea, as
these are made up from actual experimental results, and reflect the real
characteristics of steam.

Danny Barrett


>I follow your reasoning, but I don't follow your use of the ideal gas
>law.
>
>You are saying (correct me if I am wrong) that the pressure at TDC is
>high enough to keep the water in the liquid phase because the boiling
>point is so high at that pressure.
>
>As the piston drops and the pressure tries to fall, more water will flash
>into steam, keeping the pressure higher than it would be without the
>water.  This will increase the power output.  The trick is to inject the
>proper amount of water.  You would want to run out of water on the way
>down so that the pressure can drop before the exhaust valve opens.
>
>To get an idea if this will work, you'll have to look at a steam table. 
>That table lists the boiling point of water at various pressures.  You
>can also get the mass density of the steam at various temperatures and
>pressures.  You would normally use the ideal gas law (PV=nRT) to
>calculate this, but steam isn't an ideal gas until you get well above the
>boiling temperature at that pressure.
>
>Even nitrogen and oxygen aren't ideal gases at room temperature and
>pressure.  They're really close, though.  We did an experiment in
>chemistry class where we did some measurements and compared them to the
>ideal gas law.  They were off by a few tenths of a percent.  We then used
>Van Der Wal's non-ideal gas formula to calculate the expeted pressure and
>volume and found it to match the ideal gas law to within about six or
>seven significent figures.  The difference was trivial compared to our
>experimental error.
>
>That isn't the case with steam.  The differences are significent.
>
>I'm sure that someone on the list can tell us what the typical and
>maximum temperatures and pressures are at TDC.  Also, maybe someone can
>point us to a steam table somewhere on the web.
>
>Hmmm... I just thought of something:
>If injecting water results in a lower exhaust temperature, more heat will
>be used to power the engine and less will be wasted out the exhaust.  If
>the water is vaporizing as the piston drops (as explained above), the
>exhaust temperature will be lower because the water is absorbing the
>heat.
>
>
>Ray Drouillard, BSEE


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  2 20:45:16 1998
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Subject: Re: PRO ENGINE& others prog.
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There's an easy way to crack an ECU... put it on a rock and hit it with a
sledge hammer... But I'm sure there are less destructive methods, and even
ones that will allow you to use it afterward... (Ha! Ha!.....)


>hi friends:I'm new in the list..........
>I'don't have many experience with the ECU's  but I want to crack it...
>I have a PROENGINE SOFTWARE  and others similar....
>they show a lot of curves as representation of address and data...but the
>question is!!! where I can get info about where is the desired data (hi rpm
level,
>advance...) in the proengine representation....
>where (internet address) I can find people that "work" in the ecu cracking???
>
>any replay(by mail) will be pleased.
>thanks for your time
>
>						sincerely
>anibal
>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  2 21:59:22 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re:WATER INJECTION...(was Holden...etc.)
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G'Day again...
I've just finished with the rest of my email, so I can give a better answer
to the one I just ave a few minutes ago... This email is partially directed
to Ray, and partially directed to others. Note that although I may seem to
have quite a few answers, I have MANY more questions than answers, and I am
by no means an expert on this topic...

>You are saying (correct me if I am wrong) that the pressure at TDC is
>high enough to keep the water in the liquid phase because the boiling
>point is so high at that pressure.

Yes, this is what I am saying. However, since I used the ideal gas law, I
could be wrong (as I stated in the original email). However, what I am
trying to say is that the partial pressure of the steam should be at its
maximum somewhere after TDC, so direct injection into the combustion chamber
should not be required.

>As the piston drops and the pressure tries to fall, more water will flash
>into steam, keeping the pressure higher than it would be without the
>water.  This will increase the power output.  The trick is to inject the
>proper amount of water.  You would want to run out of water on the way
>down so that the pressure can drop before the exhaust valve opens.

Yes, more water will flash into steam (around 1400 times as much volume
taken up as water), giving more power due to its expansion - in reality, if
the water was steam before it was compressed back into water, it only uts
back what it had put into it, BUT it will also ABSORB extra heat, and hence
expand further - this is where the power increase occurs.

>To get an idea if this will work, you'll have to look at a steam table. 
>That table lists the boiling point of water at various pressures.  You
>can also get the mass density of the steam at various temperatures and
>pressures.  You would normally use the ideal gas law (PV=nRT) to
>calculate this, but steam isn't an ideal gas until you get well above the
>boiling temperature at that pressure.
>
>Even nitrogen and oxygen aren't ideal gases at room temperature and
>pressure.  They're really close, though.  We did an experiment in
>chemistry class where we did some measurements and compared them to the
>ideal gas law.  They were off by a few tenths of a percent.  We then used
>Van Der Wal's non-ideal gas formula to calculate the expeted pressure and
>volume and found it to match the ideal gas law to within about six or
>seven significent figures.  The difference was trivial compared to our
>experimental error.
>
>That isn't the case with steam.  The differences are significent.
>
>I'm sure that someone on the list can tell us what the typical and
>maximum temperatures and pressures are at TDC.  Also, maybe someone can
>point us to a steam table somewhere on the web.

Absolutely correct. However, the ideal gas law will at least give a "feel"
for what is going on. Of course, it is no substitute for a good set of steam
properties tables...

>Hmmm... I just thought of something:
>If injecting water results in a lower exhaust temperature, more heat will
>be used to power the engine and less will be wasted out the exhaust.  If
>the water is vaporizing as the piston drops (as explained above), the
>exhaust temperature will be lower because the water is absorbing the
>heat.

Yes... That is the whole idea of it (amongst other things for other
reasons). Someone who I have had the pleasure of knowing for about a year
has had water injection systems (home brew) on his car (normally aspirated
6cyl, early '70's plymouth), and it gave him better fuel economy, and better
power (although I can't remember what he got just now). As for my experience
with it, I had a home brew system, but it wasn't set up very well - it would
either use too much, or not enough - it was very hard to strike the "happy
medium." However, on such a day that I got it right, my fuel economy in my
1980 GM Holden VC Commodore (Australia), I got 33 MPG (Imperial Gallons),
instead of my usual 26 MPG to 28 MPG (Imperial Gallons again). As you can
see, there was a considerable improvement. Of course, a lot of it would have
been due to nice driving conditions, but I have had similar conditions, and
had been driving with a similar "style," and all I would get is a maximum of
about 28 MPG. So, where did the difference come from? Probably the water
injection.

To get maximum power from a forced flow engine (Turbo, Super charge), I am
told you need about 30% to 50% of the fuel volume as water. This is mainly
as an anti-knock agent to "intercool" the air, and keep the combustion
cooler. However, I am inclined to believe that the maximum benefit for a
naturally aspirated engine would be derrived from injecting steam, as it has
already been heated through its latent heat of evaporation (a major absorber
of energy for water injection) and into the gaseous state (although it will
condense on the compression stroke, but will re-vaporise when the
compression is taken away, no matter what heat is or isn't transfered to
it). However, this would be no-good for turbo engines, as they need the
latent heat of vaporisation for its anti-knock properties.

For fuel efficiency, I am told that not much is needed (only about 3 litres
of water per 100 litres of gasoline), however, I am always interested in
other peoples opinions, as the broader experience of many people gives a
larger knowledge base than the "not so broad" experiences of a smaller
number of people. Anyway, for fuel economy, from what I can tell, you need
only a small amount (as stated above). It is best to have this "trace"
amount being injected all of the time, once the engine has "warmed up."
However, if you are going to use the water as an anti-knock agent, then it
is best injected in larger quantitied at high load/boost. Look through the
archive on water injection (as I did in the last few days). There is a lot
of stuff there, and a lot can be learned (from both the for and against
sides). For fuel economy, it might be an idea to boil the water first with
exhaust heat, and then inject the steamy air into the intake charge. What
are other peoples ideas on this? Also, there is the point that just because
it seems to work for one engine, it doesn't mean it will work for them all.

Danny Barrett.


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 00:12:08 1998
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From: "Zack" <zubenubi@inetport.com>
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Subject: Re:WATER INJECTION...(was Holden...etc.)
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Danny,


I think I disagree on the point of whether water injected at the 
intake will stay in the liquid phase during compression.  I think the 
source of our disagreement would be, as you say, the fact that you're 
using the ideal gas law to calculate pressure.  You can only do this 
if the compression is isothermal.  In reality, the compression phase 
occurs quickly enough that it would be more correct to use an 
isentropic model.  In that case, the temperature of the gas is given 
by:

T  = T0 * ( V / V0 ) ^ (gamma - 1)

Where gamma for air is about 1.4.  So, if we start with a charge of 
80 degree F intake air, and compress it by a factor of 8.5:1, the 
temperature of the air at the end of the compression phase will be 
more than 800 degree F at the end of the compression stroke.  
At 80 degrees, the vapor pressure of water is about 0.003 atm.  My 
steam tables only go up to 705 degrees (since that's the critical 
point), at which point the vapor pressure is a whopping 218 atm.
	So... I think there's no question that if you inject water in the 
intake, all of that water will have turned to steam before the 
completion of the compression stroke.  In the process, that 
vaporization will absorb a large quantity of heat which would have 
otherwise gone to raising the temperature of the air, resulting in a 
cooler air charge at TDC.  
	If you were to vaporize the water prior to injecting it into the 
intake, you would lose the cooling benefits of injecting the water as 
a liquid.  In that case, injecting water vapor would be just like 
injecting any other inert gas.

Zack

> 
> >You are saying (correct me if I am wrong) that the pressure at TDC is
> >high enough to keep the water in the liquid phase because the boiling
> >point is so high at that pressure.
> 
> Yes, this is what I am saying. However, since I used the ideal gas law, I
> could be wrong (as I stated in the original email). However, what I am
> trying to say is that the partial pressure of the steam should be at its
> maximum somewhere after TDC, so direct injection into the combustion chamber
> should not be required.
> 
> >As the piston drops and the pressure tries to fall, more water will flash
> >into steam
> 
> Yes, more water will flash into steam (around 1400 times as much volume
> taken up as water), giving more power due to its expansion -

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 00:39:57 1998
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Something that is slightly off thread...
Many moons ago, I had a spearco water injection
system on a home brew turboed 5.7 in a Vega
It was not intercooled, and I need the water inj. to
run more than 7 psi of boost..
After a full summer of heavy abuse, I tore it down
for a re-ring, and I couldn't believe how clean &
shiny the pistons & top rings were.
About a year later, I read that the cleanliness was a 
side-effect of the water injection..  My brain is a slow 
locomotive, and I never really thought of it until I saw it in print.
No CSH back in those days either..
Mike V

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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: WATER INJECTION...(was Holden...etc.)
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>From the things that I have been told, this is VERY true. In case you
haven't seen them, recently I have seen people's messages (either in the
archive, and/or in the recent mailings) which say that to clean your engine
out, run it at about 1500 RPM, and slowly spray in about a pint of water
down the carb throat or into the air duct of an EFI engine. This should take
about 2 to 2 and a half hours. It's a long time to stand there playing with
a running engine, but it is supposed to clean it out really nicely.
Alternatively, put the water injection back on for a couple of hundred hours
(I assume it is the type that comes on at WOT, if not, then it will take far
less time), and the engine should be nice and clean. When I had my water
injection on, I didn't have it on for long enough to get the nice
side-affects. My system was an experimental home brew job, and it was rushed
together in an hour, so due care wasn't really taken. It was too hard to
adjust properly, so it never worked properly. I'm thinging about designing
another one soon. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Danny Barrett.



>Something that is slightly off thread...
>Many moons ago, I had a spearco water injection
>system on a home brew turboed 5.7 in a Vega
>It was not intercooled, and I need the water inj. to
>run more than 7 psi of boost..
>After a full summer of heavy abuse, I tore it down
>for a re-ring, and I couldn't believe how clean &
>shiny the pistons & top rings were.
>About a year later, I read that the cleanliness was a 
>side-effect of the water injection..  My brain is a slow 
>locomotive, and I never really thought of it until I saw it in print.
>No CSH back in those days either..
>Mike V
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 01:44:41 1998
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Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 00:14:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Blown fuel/timing maps
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On Sat, 2 May 1998 16:28:44 -0400 "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
writes:
>From: Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
>Subject: Blown fuel/timing maps
>
>
>>For all you turboed and supercharged V8's out there... As most of you
>>know, the twin turboes will be going on the IROC this week. I need to
>>get a ballpark fuel and timing map for the DFI so I don't blow up the
>>engine the first time out.
>
>The best I could offer would be coping something off a syty (749)
>fuel/timing map and passing that along. 
>Come to think of it I guess could do the same for timing off a Buick
>V-6 for timing, it's maf
>The syty is a 4.3 (2/3 of SBC) so it might be best, let me know,
>it's a all typing exercise, so ain't gonna be instant (ie day or 2).
>No worries mate
>Bruce

Are you using a MAF or MAP system?  If you are using a MAP (Manifold
Absolute Pressure) sensor, simply extrapolate the table up into the >100
KPa region.  I don't have any experience with MAF (Mass Air Flow)
systems, but I suspect that you would similarly extrapolate the table up
into the higher airflow regions that were unreachable before.

BTW, the Holley Pro-Jection is a MAP system, and can plot up to about 130
KPa.  That means that it'll handle about a five PSI boost without
trouble.

Ray Drouillard.

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From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 01:44:46 1998
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Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 00:14:56 -0400
Subject: Re: WATER INJECTION...(was Holden...etc.)
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On Sun, 3 May 1998 11:59:15 +1000 (EST) danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au
(Danny Barrett) writes:
>G'Day again...
>I've just finished with the rest of my email, so I can give a better
answer
>to the one I just ave a few minutes ago... This email is partially
directed
>to Ray, and partially directed to others. Note that although I may seem
to
>have quite a few answers, I have MANY more questions than answers, and I
am
>by no means an expert on this topic...

You're more of an expert than I am.  You, at least, have tried it.  The
motto at Lawrence Technological University (my Alma Mater) is "Theory and
Practice".

Anyhow, I'm all for increasing the economy of my engine.  I drive a 1989
Jeep Grand Wagoneer powered by a 360 CID V8 (AMC, not Chrysler).  It
drinks fuel, so a 20% increase like you have experienced would be well
worthwhile.

I have already screpped the carburater and added Holley Pro-Jection.  I
am working on modifying the ignition system so that I can use the spark
control that is available with the Holley box.  After that, I'll add a
knock sensor.  My next scheme will be to build one of those wide-range O2
sensors and feed the signal into the ECM in place of the origional O2
sensor.  I can then modify the table that allows you to choose the O2
voltage that feedback system tries to track.  That way, I can program it
to run way lean during cruise and rich at low vacuum.

This water injection idea is interesting, and looks promising.  If the
ideal injected amount is proportional to the amount of fuel injected, I
can simply use the injecter signal.  If it also depends on the manifold
absolute pressure, I will need to take that into account.

If steam is injected and it does, in fact, recondense at TDC, that heat
will be given up there and will increase the temperature of the
compressed air/fuel mixture.  Once the mixture ignites and the piston
starts to drop, the heat will be reabsorbed as the liquid droplets flash
into steam.  Now, it's beginning to look like something that recycles
waste heat from the exhaust.  That sounds way out there, so I'll have to
give it some thought.

Back to practice vs. theory.  The experimental data seems to indicate
increased efficiency when the proper amount of water is injected.  We
need to come up with a plausable theory to explain it.  Also, we need to
reproduce the results of the experiment.

My origional thought on using water injection was to increase the
compression enough to need higher octane gas, and to use the water
injection as an antiknock agent.  That way, I could run high compression
with cheap gas.  Water would, in that case, only need to be injected when
the throttle is opened wide.

By the way, please don't get the idea that all of my mods are strictly
for better fuel economy.  I could buy a LOT of fuel with the money that I
have sunk into that vehicle.  What I really like (don't tell my wife) is
the extra power and drivability.  If all I wanted was better economy, I
would stick a six-banger in it.

Ray Drouillard


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From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 01:54:26 1998
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Subject: Re:WATER INJECTION
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Well Gents, it seems we have a difinative answer. Thankyou Zack. So, now
that it has been shown that the steam WILL stay vaporised (which was the
opposite of my prediction), can anyone come up with anything that will show
whether the steam's maximum partial pressure will be before or after TDC?
Also, what if we were to inject the water at say 90 deg C (194 deg F). It
has not yet boiled, but it has gone nearly all the way to boiling, so the
energy completely lost due to latent heat of evaporation will be lowered as
much as possible? This way, we will not be injecting an "inert gas" but a
liquid that is just about ready to flash to a vapor. Please bear in mind
that the water would be heated by the exhaust manifold.

Danny Barrett.

>Danny,
>
>
>I think I disagree on the point of whether water injected at the 
>intake will stay in the liquid phase during compression.  I think the 
>source of our disagreement would be, as you say, the fact that you're 
>using the ideal gas law to calculate pressure.  You can only do this 
>if the compression is isothermal.  In reality, the compression phase 
>occurs quickly enough that it would be more correct to use an 
>isentropic model.  In that case, the temperature of the gas is given 
>by:
>
>T  = T0 * ( V / V0 ) ^ (gamma - 1)
>
>Where gamma for air is about 1.4.  So, if we start with a charge of 
>80 degree F intake air, and compress it by a factor of 8.5:1, the 
>temperature of the air at the end of the compression phase will be 
>more than 800 degree F at the end of the compression stroke.  
>At 80 degrees, the vapor pressure of water is about 0.003 atm.  My 
>steam tables only go up to 705 degrees (since that's the critical 
>point), at which point the vapor pressure is a whopping 218 atm.
>	So... I think there's no question that if you inject water in the 
>intake, all of that water will have turned to steam before the 
>completion of the compression stroke.  In the process, that 
>vaporization will absorb a large quantity of heat which would have 
>otherwise gone to raising the temperature of the air, resulting in a 
>cooler air charge at TDC.  
>	If you were to vaporize the water prior to injecting it into the 
>intake, you would lose the cooling benefits of injecting the water as 
>a liquid.  In that case, injecting water vapor would be just like 
>injecting any other inert gas.
>
>Zack
>
>> 
>> >You are saying (correct me if I am wrong) that the pressure at TDC is
>> >high enough to keep the water in the liquid phase because the boiling
>> >point is so high at that pressure.
>> 
>> Yes, this is what I am saying. However, since I used the ideal gas law, I
>> could be wrong (as I stated in the original email). However, what I am
>> trying to say is that the partial pressure of the steam should be at its
>> maximum somewhere after TDC, so direct injection into the combustion chamber
>> should not be required.
>> 
>> >As the piston drops and the pressure tries to fall, more water will flash
>> >into steam
>> 
>> Yes, more water will flash into steam (around 1400 times as much volume
>> taken up as water), giving more power due to its expansion -
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 03:39:17 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: WATER INJECTION...(was Holden...etc.)
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Well, I wouldn't say it woould give 20% better fuel economy - as I said
before, there were a few other factors, but it could have possibly (maybe,
maybe not) been as much as 5% or 6%, as out of the blue (usually once every
2 years) I get about 30 to 32 MPG on one run - just to give me a glimmer of
hope for better mileage.

Please read some of the stuff that has gone on since the email that you were
quoting from. My idea that water remains a liquid even at TDC has been shown
to be incorrect. However, this may work to our advantage (provided the
maximum steam partial pressure is not before TDC), as it will start to
"push" earlier than re-vaporising steam would (as it is already steam).
Please see one of my previous emails (replying to Zack) for mmore info - I
don't want to repeat it, as it is long winded...

Danny Barrett.


>You're more of an expert than I am.  You, at least, have tried it.  The
>motto at Lawrence Technological University (my Alma Mater) is "Theory and
>Practice".
>
>Anyhow, I'm all for increasing the economy of my engine.  I drive a 1989
>Jeep Grand Wagoneer powered by a 360 CID V8 (AMC, not Chrysler).  It
>drinks fuel, so a 20% increase like you have experienced would be well
>worthwhile.
>
>I have already screpped the carburater and added Holley Pro-Jection.  I
>am working on modifying the ignition system so that I can use the spark
>control that is available with the Holley box.  After that, I'll add a
>knock sensor.  My next scheme will be to build one of those wide-range O2
>sensors and feed the signal into the ECM in place of the origional O2
>sensor.  I can then modify the table that allows you to choose the O2
>voltage that feedback system tries to track.  That way, I can program it
>to run way lean during cruise and rich at low vacuum.
>
>This water injection idea is interesting, and looks promising.  If the
>ideal injected amount is proportional to the amount of fuel injected, I
>can simply use the injecter signal.  If it also depends on the manifold
>absolute pressure, I will need to take that into account.
>
>If steam is injected and it does, in fact, recondense at TDC, that heat
>will be given up there and will increase the temperature of the
>compressed air/fuel mixture.  Once the mixture ignites and the piston
>starts to drop, the heat will be reabsorbed as the liquid droplets flash
>into steam.  Now, it's beginning to look like something that recycles
>waste heat from the exhaust.  That sounds way out there, so I'll have to
>give it some thought.
>
>Back to practice vs. theory.  The experimental data seems to indicate
>increased efficiency when the proper amount of water is injected.  We
>need to come up with a plausable theory to explain it.  Also, we need to
>reproduce the results of the experiment.
>
>My origional thought on using water injection was to increase the
>compression enough to need higher octane gas, and to use the water
>injection as an antiknock agent.  That way, I could run high compression
>with cheap gas.  Water would, in that case, only need to be injected when
>the throttle is opened wide.
>
>By the way, please don't get the idea that all of my mods are strictly
>for better fuel economy.  I could buy a LOT of fuel with the money that I
>have sunk into that vehicle.  What I really like (don't tell my wife) is
>the extra power and drivability.  If all I wanted was better economy, I
>would stick a six-banger in it.
>
>Ray Drouillard
>
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 05:05:51 1998
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Subject: Water Injection. What do we agree on so far?
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OK Gents. This discussion has happened a few times before, if we look in the
archives, and to what I can tell, not once has a definitive answer been
obtained as to whether water injection would/should work in normally
aspirated engines. We should all know that it is very valuable as an
anti-knock agent in turbo/supercharged engines - it has been used for years.
I think that we obviously have some very intelegent people here, and I
believe that we should be able to come up with an answer to this problem, so
that if the subject comes up again by newly registered people to this
mailing list we can give them the one true and final answer (if possible),
and tell them to look it up on the archives (and, yes, I'm actually the
guilty party for bring up the topic this time, as I have a certain amount of
knowledge, but I want to know the absolute answer).

What do we all agree on? Who agrees/disagrees with the following?



It has been shown that the water injected will vaporise before TDC, and
remain vaporised throughout the compression/power strokes.

For economy and power in normally aspirated engines, to reduce the amount of
energy lost due to latent heat of evaporation, the water should be heated by
the exhaust manifold to say 90 deg C (194 deg F), so that it is still a
liquid, and not simply another inert gas.

If the anti-knock properties are needed (ie. Turbo, and Supercharged
engines), however, the water should be injected cold to make use of the
latent heat of vaporisation (Note, this has been a known, tried and true
method for possibly longer than many of us have been around).

For fuel economy in normally aspirated engines, a small amount of water may
help, but it should not be used in quantities remotely resembling those used
in turbo/super charged engines.



Questions yet to be answered in gaining the absolute answer:

Are the expansion properties of steam better than those of N2, O2 (ie.
excess O2 in the charge), CO2 and NO (produced at least in small quantities
due to the heat of the reaction in the cylinder)?

If so, what quantity of water, at what temperature should be injected so
that the benefit of extra horespower (without extra fuel) is maximised
(considering water's tendancy to "put out" the combustion process)?

Also, If water injection (without an increase in fuel used) gives more
power, would this equate to more fuel efficiency if your driving habits do
not change?

If water injection is viable (as far as increased power/efficiency is
concerned, without the use of extra fuel), how (or should) we
de-chlorinate/de-floridate the water? Should we use a vehicle mounted
charcoal filter? Or should we filter the water before it is put into the
vehicle?


If you have any other questions/points, feel free to add them...

Danny Barrett.


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 06:16:36 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Refrigerants
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Does anyone out there know anything about refrigerants? I need to know if
there are any refrigerants (or series thereof) that will work between about
20 deg C, and about 500 to 600 deg C. This might not sound like EFI to me,
but I am working on an invention that has everything to do with EFI, and the
use of such refrigerants would make this device much better. Sorry, I can't
disclose what the invention is at the moment, as I might want to take out a
patent in the future (NOTE: This invention has nothing to do with water
injection, of which I am currently discussing with various prople). Thanks.

Danny Barrett.


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 08:26:37 1998
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From: "Gwyn Reedy" <mgr@mgrcorp.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Refrigerants
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 08:24:34 -0400
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Sounds like a refrigerated intercooler to me. What do you call an
intercooler if there is no blower attached? A pre-cooler?

If you can find a refrigerant that will work down to about -100C or whatever
the temp of 'dry ice' is, then you can make a practical refrigerated
intercooler suitable for drag races, or longer races if you have a large dry
ice bin.

Gwyn Reedy
Brandon, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, May 03, 1998 8:08 AM
Subject: Refrigerants


>Does anyone out there know anything about refrigerants? I need to know if
>there are any refrigerants (or series thereof) that will work between about
>20 deg C, and about 500 to 600 deg C. This might not sound like EFI to me,
>but I am working on an invention that has everything to do with EFI, and
the
>use of such refrigerants would make this device much better. Sorry, I can't
>disclose what the invention is at the moment, as I might want to take out a
>patent in the future (NOTE: This invention has nothing to do with water
>injection, of which I am currently discussing with various prople). Thanks.
>
>Danny Barrett.
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 09:03:07 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: WATER INJECTION...(was Holden...etc.)
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 09:03:11 -0400
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From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
To: diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, May 03, 1998 2:08 AM
Subject: Re: WATER INJECTION...(was Holden...etc.)


>>From the things that I have been told, this is VERY true. In case you
>haven't seen them, recently I have seen people's messages (either in the
>archive, and/or in the recent mailings) which say that to clean your engine
>out, run it at about 1500 RPM, and slowly spray in about a pint of water
>down the carb throat or into the air duct of an EFI engine. This should
take
>about 2 to 2 and a half hours.


General Motors used to have a real problem with carbon deposits
in combustion chambers, and sold a solution that you added to the
intake of a running engine until it stalled.  Waited overnight and
started the next morning, all carbon gone (most).
  Just use a planter mister(sprayer), and way less than a pint should
do it.  Ya wanna be sure not to hydralic the motor, and bend a rod.
  One thing to watch if your gonna run water injection full time is
condensation in the oil pan.
  Personally, not to throw water on the idea, I never saw any marked
effect at using it at cruise.   You'd think if there was much to this idea
someone years ago would have gotten it right.  Sounds like the
1950's claims of with this solution you can run your car on water.
  If you use a quality detergent gas, now a days the intake tract
carbon deposits are nothing like they use to be.
  Also watch for throttle plate icing.
  Wouldn't be surprised to have intake tract icing, and big chunks
breaking loose.

Just my two cents on things to watch for.
Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 09:04:49 1998
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I'm not sure who started this thread about the twin turboed Camaro,
but I want a ride in it!  

I'm not sure how you specify it w/DFIs, but the timing & fuel tables 
in a stock Syclone (2  BAR) "might" look exactly this:

Deg. vs MAP & RPM
        |  600   800   1000  1200  1400  1600  2000  2400  2800  3200  3600
4000  4400  4800 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------
30      |  26.0  26.0  17.9  17.9  21.8  26.0  28.1  29.9  29.9  38.0  38.0
38.0  38.0  38.0
40      |  26.0  26.0  27.1  28.1  32.0  34.8  38.0  38.0  38.0  38.0  38.0
38.0  38.0  38.0
50      |  23.9  23.9  25.0  26.0  28.1  29.9  30.9  30.9  32.0  33.0  34.8
35.9  35.9  35.9
60      |  20.0  20.0  25.0  26.0  27.1  28.1  29.2  29.9  30.9  32.0  33.0
34.8  34.8  35.9
70      |  15.8  15.8  16.5  19.0  21.8  25.0  26.0  28.8  29.9  32.0  32.0
32.7  34.1  34.1
80      |   9.8  12.0  12.0  14.1  19.0  20.0  21.1  23.9  25.0  26.7  26.7
28.8  29.9  29.9
90      |   9.8   9.8  10.9  10.9  10.9  13.0  16.5  17.9  19.0  20.0  23.9
26.0  28.1  28.1
100     |   9.8   9.8   9.8   9.8   9.8  10.9  13.0  14.8  19.0  20.0  21.8
23.9  25.0  26.0
110     |   9.8   9.8   9.8   9.8   9.8   9.8  13.0  15.1  15.1  15.8  17.9
19.0  20.0  21.8
120     |   9.8   9.8   9.8   9.8   9.8   9.8  13.0  15.1  15.1  15.8  17.9
18.6  18.6  20.0
130     |   9.8   9.8   9.8   9.8   9.8   9.8  13.0  15.1  15.1  15.1  16.9
19.0  16.5  17.9
140     |   9.8   9.8   9.8   9.8   9.8   9.8  13.0  15.1  15.1  15.1  16.9
19.0  15.8  17.9
150     |   6.0   6.0   6.0   6.0   6.0   9.8  13.0  15.1  15.1  15.1  16.9
19.0  14.8  17.9
160     |   6.0   6.0   6.0   6.0   6.0   9.8  13.0  14.8  14.8  14.8  16.9
17.9  17.9  17.9
170     |   6.0   6.0   6.0   6.0   6.0   9.8  13.0  14.8  14.8  14.8  16.9
17.9  17.9  17.9
180     |   6.0   6.0   6.0   6.0   6.0   9.8  13.0  14.8  14.8  14.8  16.9
17.9  17.9  17.9
190     |   6.0   6.0   6.0   6.0   6.0   9.8   8.1   9.8   9.8   9.8  12.0
15.1  13.0  13.0

  Base Pulse VE vs RPM And MAP                    
%
        |  20    30    40    50    60    70    80    90    100  
---------------------------------------------------------------
800     |  34.8  35.9  35.9  35.9  36.7  36.7  36.7  37.9  38.7
1200    |  34.8  35.9  35.9  37.9  38.7  38.7  38.7  39.8  39.8
1600    |  34.8  36.7  37.9  37.9  39.8  40.6  40.6  41.8  43.0
2000    |  35.9  37.9  38.7  38.7  40.6  43.0  43.8  44.9  45.7
2400    |  36.7  38.7  39.8  40.6  43.0  43.8  45.7  46.9  47.7
2800    |  37.9  39.8  41.8  43.0  44.9  45.7  47.7  48.8  50.0
3200    |  39.8  41.8  43.8  43.8  45.7  47.7  50.0  50.8  52.0
3600    |  41.8  43.0  43.8  43.8  46.9  48.8  50.0  52.0  52.7
4000    |  43.8  43.8  44.9  44.9  47.7  50.0  52.0  52.7  54.7

Remember this is a 4.3 V6 that pulls like a jet till 4,000 RPM. 
Then goes to sleep.  They have low perf ports & cam, and a
small turbo.   HTH
Mike V.



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 09:10:44 1998
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Why would you want to do this?  There is most likely a drop in 
replacement for your app.. conversion should be like a 20 minute 
job.

> 
> Has anybody in EFI land ever heard of a standard pts ignition system being
> used with an EFI system.  I am designing a system based on a Motorola HC12
> and need to know if the noise from points ignition will cause problems.  I
> am working with a time crunch so I don't have time to convert to
> electronic igntion.  What can I do to minimize this kind of noise?  
> 	
> Any kind of advice would be greatly appreciated!  
> 
> Chris Vondrachek
> chrisv@egr.up.edu
> 
> 
> 
> 
Randy Braun
'77 C-10 pick-up, DFI-Tuned Port, 350
'82 Firebird, DFI, ZZ3
'91 GTA, Stock

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 09:40:35 1998
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Subject: Re: Refrigerants
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>Sounds like a refrigerated intercooler to me. What do you call an
>intercooler if there is no blower attached? A pre-cooler?

Nice try, but you haven't guessed the invention... Better luck next time...

>If you can find a refrigerant that will work down to about -100C or whatever
>the temp of 'dry ice' is, then you can make a practical refrigerated
>intercooler suitable for drag races, or longer races if you have a large dry
>ice bin.
>
>Gwyn Reedy
>Brandon, FL
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
>To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Sunday, May 03, 1998 8:08 AM
>Subject: Refrigerants
>
>
>>Does anyone out there know anything about refrigerants? I need to know if
>>there are any refrigerants (or series thereof) that will work between about
>>20 deg C, and about 500 to 600 deg C. This might not sound like EFI to me,
>>but I am working on an invention that has everything to do with EFI, and
>the
>>use of such refrigerants would make this device much better. Sorry, I can't
>>disclose what the invention is at the moment, as I might want to take out a
>>patent in the future (NOTE: This invention has nothing to do with water
>>injection, of which I am currently discussing with various prople). Thanks.
>>
>>Danny Barrett.
>>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 09:42:07 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Blown fuel/timing maps
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 09:42:28 -0400
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>Are you using a MAF or MAP system?  If you are using a MAP (Manifold
>Absolute Pressure) sensor, simply extrapolate the table up into the >100
>KPa region.  I don't have any experience with MAF (Mass Air Flow)
>systems, but I suspect that you would similarly extrapolate the table up
into the higher airflow regions that were unreachable before.
>
On a MAF system there are no fuel tables, it's a calculation based
on MAF readings.  They might have a target O2 voltage for cruise,
but that would be all I'd imagine, Anyone?.

>BTW, the Holley Pro-Jection is a MAP system, and can plot up to about 130
>KPa.  That means that it'll handle about a five PSI boost without
>trouble.
>
>Ray Drouillard.
>
A N.A. engine runs at VE numbers in the 75-85% range, and a
turbo motor can easily go 120, + to 150%VE, and it's not a very
linear response, again depending on state of tune.  So the closer
you are the better, even to start.  If he's using a 2 bar MAP then he's also
looking to go to 200 K/Pa, and if a 3 bar 300K/Pa.   As I recall
A.S. is looking to the big HP numbers..
Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 11:04:49 1998
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All I know about water injection is it works as advertised. I had a
holley water injection system on a ford 390 because I was getting knock
with regular gas put this unit on and the knock was gone. I used tap
water . The unit had a different jet for v8 ,6,4 so I don't know if the
volume of water is a big thing factor . I ran this for 5 years the only
thing I would add to the unit is near out of water light. The funny
thing about this car is it was the only car I owned that ran at 276,000
miles on original engine (one valve job) and was still running when sold
. This puzzled me till I heard of the cleaning action of water injection
from this group. If any one has the holley water injection box so I can
make a similar one main thing is the orifice size for a v8 or plans to
build a box I would be interested. It was the mid 80s when I had this
box and was plug and play so my details on how all the parts worked was
some what beyond my comprehension at that age. This is a good lesson on
doing things you think will work that others think are stupid and trust
me people looked at me funny when I told them I ran water injection.

Steve

Danny Barrett wrote:

> OK Gents. This discussion has happened a few times before, if we look
> in the
> archives, and to what I can tell, not once has a definitive answer
> been
> obtained as to whether water injection would/should work in normally
> aspirated engines. We should all know that it is very valuable as an
> anti-knock agent in turbo/supercharged engines - it has been used for
> years.
> I think that we obviously have some very intelegent people here, and I
>
> believe that we should be able to come up with an answer to this
> problem, so
> that if the subject comes up again by newly registered people to this
> mailing list we can give them the one true and final answer (if
> possible),
> and tell them to look it up on the archives (and, yes, I'm actually
> the
> guilty party for bring up the topic this time, as I have a certain
> amount of
> knowledge, but I want to know the absolute answer).
>
> What do we all agree on? Who agrees/disagrees with the following?
>
> It has been shown that the water injected will vaporise before TDC,
> and
> remain vaporised throughout the compression/power strokes.
>
> For economy and power in normally aspirated engines, to reduce the
> amount of
> energy lost due to latent heat of evaporation, the water should be
> heated by
> the exhaust manifold to say 90 deg C (194 deg F), so that it is still
> a
> liquid, and not simply another inert gas.
>
> If the anti-knock properties are needed (ie. Turbo, and Supercharged
> engines), however, the water should be injected cold to make use of
> the
> latent heat of vaporisation (Note, this has been a known, tried and
> true
> method for possibly longer than many of us have been around).
>
> For fuel economy in normally aspirated engines, a small amount of
> water may
> help, but it should not be used in quantities remotely resembling
> those used
> in turbo/super charged engines.
>
> Questions yet to be answered in gaining the absolute answer:
>
> Are the expansion properties of steam better than those of N2, O2 (ie.
>
> excess O2 in the charge), CO2 and NO (produced at least in small
> quantities
> due to the heat of the reaction in the cylinder)?
>
> If so, what quantity of water, at what temperature should be injected
> so
> that the benefit of extra horespower (without extra fuel) is maximised
>
> (considering water's tendancy to "put out" the combustion process)?
>
> Also, If water injection (without an increase in fuel used) gives more
>
> power, would this equate to more fuel efficiency if your driving
> habits do
> not change?
>
> If water injection is viable (as far as increased power/efficiency is
> concerned, without the use of extra fuel), how (or should) we
> de-chlorinate/de-floridate the water? Should we use a vehicle mounted
> charcoal filter? Or should we filter the water before it is put into
> the
> vehicle?
>
> If you have any other questions/points, feel free to add them...
>
> Danny Barrett.




From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 11:27:40 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: eric schumacher <e.schumacher@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Points ignition and EFI? (HELP!)
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The early VW systems had points for both the ignition and the injection.
Any noise generated by arcing at the points  is at least several orders of
magnitude below the noise generated by a sparkplugs arcing. The underhood
enviorment electrically is very severe, points are the least of your worries.

At 09:20 AM 5/3/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Why would you want to do this?  There is most likely a drop in 
>replacement for your app.. conversion should be like a 20 minute 
>job.
>
>> 
>> Has anybody in EFI land ever heard of a standard pts ignition system being
>> used with an EFI system.  I am designing a system based on a Motorola HC12
>> and need to know if the noise from points ignition will cause problems.  I
>> am working with a time crunch so I don't have time to convert to
>> electronic igntion.  What can I do to minimize this kind of noise?  
>> 	
>> Any kind of advice would be greatly appreciated!  
>> 
>> Chris Vondrachek
>> chrisv@egr.up.edu
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>Randy Braun
>'77 C-10 pick-up, DFI-Tuned Port, 350
>'82 Firebird, DFI, ZZ3
>'91 GTA, Stock
>


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From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Water Injection. What do we agree on so far?
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On Sun, 3 May 1998, Danny Barrett wrote:

> OK Gents. This discussion has happened a few times before, if we look in the
> archives, and to what I can tell, not once has a definitive answer been
> obtained as to whether water injection would/should work in normally
> aspirated engines. 

Why not get a copy of Ricardo's High Speed Engines and you will find
everything you need on this subject. Most editions [maybe all] have this
information.

Jim Davies


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 11:44:28 1998
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From: "Jake Lindeke" <jlindeke@bsfh.org>
Organization: Supra Owners Group International
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Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 11:50:33 -0400
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If it has to do with Intercooling then i'm intrested. I;t would be really cool to 
have the air going into my intake at freezing tempatures. 
--Jake Lindeke
--Temple Terrace, FL.

> Sounds like a refrigerated intercooler to me. What do you call an
> intercooler if there is no blower attached? A pre-cooler?
> 
> If you can find a refrigerant that will work down to about -100C or whatever
> the temp of 'dry ice' is, then you can make a practical refrigerated
> intercooler suitable for drag races, or longer races if you have a large dry
> ice bin.
> 
> Gwyn Reedy
> Brandon, FL


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 13:06:01 1998
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Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 13:05:40 -0400
From: Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
Subject: Re: Blown fuel/timing maps
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Thanks for the maps that were posted :) I've got a place to start now.
I'm shooting for about 400 hp off the bat, and then 450-500 once I get
it tuned and raise the boost a little.

It's a MAP system (Accel DFI, w/o the wideband o2 sensor) You can
program it to stay in closed loop for whatever you want. I've got it set
up to be CL above 1000 rpms, and below 70% throttle. At WOT, it goes to
whatever you have programmed (currently pulsewidths that give me around
750 mV throughout the rpm range). Any larger, and I droppped a few hp on
the dyno. If you guys haven't seen the project, I've got it online at
http://www.eecs.tufts.edu/~askulte/ttt/ttt.html.

I've got Deltagate wastegates to use, so I think I'll start out w/ the 5
psi springs. Once I get the fuel curve dialed in, I'll raise the boost
to 8-10 psi. I'm still on the stock iron crappy heads, stock cam
(actually, half decent for a blown application...) and stock cast 9.0:!
cast bottom end. I'm taking it slow since I can't afford a new motor at
the beginning of this summer...

Andris "my sponsors donated a case of coneshaped hats" Skulte

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 13:10:23 1998
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Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 13:10:04 -0400
From: Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
Subject: Re: Refrigerants
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Gwyn Reedy wrote:
> 
> Sounds like a refrigerated intercooler to me. What do you call an
> intercooler if there is no blower attached? A pre-cooler?

I don't think there are any turbochargers that heat the air up to 500
deg C... That's damn hot! I think it might be a new cooling system, so
the heads are nice and cool=> run more boost, less knock, more power. Am
I close? This is a neat puzzle ;)

A.

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Subject: Re: Refrigerants
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 13:15:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <199805031545.LAA07111@soleil.acomp.usf.edu> from "Jake Lindeke" at May 3, 98 11:50:33 am
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> 
> If it has to do with Intercooling then i'm intrested. I;t would be really cool to 
> have the air going into my intake at freezing tempatures. 


I have already seen a device that refrigerates the incoming air 
somwhere in a magazine
it does make a difference
if you can keep the air at about -20 you cna tune up to 10% more power 
out of an engine over running air at underhood temps ~150
plus you cna run more comp and timing as well to bump it up a little more

> > Sounds like a refrigerated intercooler to me. What do you call an
> > intercooler if there is no blower attached? A pre-cooler?
> > 
> > If you can find a refrigerant that will work down to about -100C or whatever
> > the temp of 'dry ice' is, then you can make a practical refrigerated
> > intercooler suitable for drag races, or longer races if you have a large dry
> > ice bin.

ammonia may work across these temp extremes
but it is not very efficient
from what I can remeber

Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 13:14:37 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: Water Injection. What do we agree on so far?
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Do you know how RARE that book is? I'm sure you do... Also, from what I hear
from others, it only deals with turbo/supercharged engines. We know that it
is of definite use in such engines, but whether it is of use in normally
aspirated engines, we do not know. Whether Ricardo knew or not, we don't
know, as all we are told is about the forced aspiration engines. Also, did
he use *small* amounts of water, and at what temperature? Or did he simply
put it in cold? All of these are questions that need answering. I have waded
my way through the archive, and the knowledge base has onle got to a certain
level. It would be nice if the knowledge base was extended, no matter what
the result the discussion comes up with. Simply put, there are questions
being raised which have not been answered. I'm sure that there are enough
people on the mailing list that have enough education in physics and
chemistry to be able to find the answers to all of these questions. I am not
saying that Ricardo was right, or wrong - I am saying that he found some
very interesting results, and we could take the knowledge base even further.
Like a pygmy standing on the shoulders of a giant - the pygmy will always
see further than the giant, as he is further up. What the pygmy needs to
remember is that if he always looks down at the giant, he will not even see
as much as the giant, and he is worse off than if he stood on his own two
feet. We have the questions, we have the ability to find the answers, so why
don't we find the answers (if only the theoretical ones). If someone already
has the answer (and can back it up with science), then PLEASE, let everyone
know...

Danny Barrett.


>On Sun, 3 May 1998, Danny Barrett wrote:
>
>> OK Gents. This discussion has happened a few times before, if we look in the
>> archives, and to what I can tell, not once has a definitive answer been
>> obtained as to whether water injection would/should work in normally
>> aspirated engines. 
>
>Why not get a copy of Ricardo's High Speed Engines and you will find
>everything you need on this subject. Most editions [maybe all] have this
>information.
>
>Jim Davies
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 13:27:29 1998
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Subject: Re: Refrigerants
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The thing about having "freezing" air going into your engine is that you'll
end up with ice going into it (from the air's humidity). Do we really want
that??? I don't think so. Besides, it ain't an intercooler (it ain't much of
a "cooler" at all - at least as far as its primary intended use is concerned).

Danny Barrett



>If it has to do with Intercooling then i'm intrested. I;t would be really
cool to 
>have the air going into my intake at freezing tempatures. 
>--Jake Lindeke
>--Temple Terrace, FL.
>
>> Sounds like a refrigerated intercooler to me. What do you call an
>> intercooler if there is no blower attached? A pre-cooler?
>> 
>> If you can find a refrigerant that will work down to about -100C or whatever
>> the temp of 'dry ice' is, then you can make a practical refrigerated
>> intercooler suitable for drag races, or longer races if you have a large dry
>> ice bin.
>> 
>> Gwyn Reedy
>> Brandon, FL
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 13:28:12 1998
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From: Chris Conlon <synchris@ricochet.net>
To: "diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: water injection
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 13:06:36 -0400
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Hi,

Zack wrote:

> I think I disagree on the point of whether water injected at the 
> intake will stay in the liquid phase during compression.
> ...
> So, if we start with a charge of 
> 80 degree F intake air, and compress it by a factor of 8.5:1, the 
> temperature of the air at the end of the compression phase will be 
> more than 800 degree F at the end of the compression stroke.  
>
> At 80 degrees, the vapor pressure of water is about 0.003 atm.  My 
> steam tables only go up to 705 degrees (since that's the critical 
> point), at which point the vapor pressure is a whopping 218 atm.
>
> 	So... I think there's no question that if you inject water in the 
> intake, all of that water will have turned to steam before the 
> completion of the compression stroke.  In the process, that 

I think this is close, but not quite there. The water will absorb
a large amount of the heat energy due to compressing the charge,
and thus the temperature rise will be less than calculated. Possibly
*way* less depending on how much water. (OTOH the pressure rise will
be more, due to water vapor, etc etc.)  But as long as all the water
is liquid before the intake valves close, and vapor after combustion,
I don't think it makes a difference. (Guess I ought not nitpick.)

It seems like we're looking at 2 different things. First the use of
water to (inter)cool the intake charge, the goal being to get more
air mass into the cylinder. The coolant water should stay liquid,
as much as possible, because if it turns to steam (and expands
tremendously), it'll just displace air from the cylinder. (As someone
said, like adding an inert gas to the charge).

Once inside the cylinder, you want the water to still be liquid,
but as close to boiling as possible. This way it'll evaporate and
expand, giving you the desired pressure rise, but take up a minimum
of your combustion heat to do so.

How to do this? Research project :)

(As an aside, I wondered the other day about heat loss through the
cylinder walls, and the loss of energy due to that. I have heard of
ceramic coating pistons, is there anything similar that can be done
to the head and cylinder walls to keep heat in the chamber and thus contributing energy to the crank? Or would this push cylinder wall
temps so high that detonation would be unstoppable?)

   Chris C.


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 14:09:51 1998
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Subject: Re: Refrigerants
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Sorry, wrong again...
got nothing to do with an intercooler, in fact nothing to do with the intake
air. Also, nothing to do with cooling the heads, although, I could add it
in, and make the thing work even better.....

Danny Barrett.

>Gwyn Reedy wrote:
>> 
>> Sounds like a refrigerated intercooler to me. What do you call an
>> intercooler if there is no blower attached? A pre-cooler?
>
>I don't think there are any turbochargers that heat the air up to 500
>deg C... That's damn hot! I think it might be a new cooling system, so
>the heads are nice and cool=> run more boost, less knock, more power. Am
>I close? This is a neat puzzle ;)
>
>A.
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 14:17:37 1998
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Subject: Re: Refrigerants
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An intercooler might be a great idea, but this isn't one. Sorry guys...
You'll have to guess again...

Danny Barrett.
 
>> If it has to do with Intercooling then i'm intrested. I;t would be really
cool to 
>> have the air going into my intake at freezing tempatures. 
>
>
>I have already seen a device that refrigerates the incoming air 
>somwhere in a magazine
>it does make a difference
>if you can keep the air at about -20 you cna tune up to 10% more power 
>out of an engine over running air at underhood temps ~150
>plus you cna run more comp and timing as well to bump it up a little more
>
>> > Sounds like a refrigerated intercooler to me. What do you call an
>> > intercooler if there is no blower attached? A pre-cooler?
>> > 
>> > If you can find a refrigerant that will work down to about -100C or
whatever
>> > the temp of 'dry ice' is, then you can make a practical refrigerated
>> > intercooler suitable for drag races, or longer races if you have a
large dry
>> > ice bin.
>
>ammonia may work across these temp extremes
>but it is not very efficient
>from what I can remeber
>
>Clive 
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 14:39:48 1998
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From: "Robert Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Refrigerants, Wide range EGO and other thoughts.
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 11:39:37 -0700
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Having been led astray for the last few weeks, May I make a request?  To the
developer of the wide range EGO, could you E-mail me privately (or on the
list).  Need to know more about it.  Seems a certain low fangler that I
sometimes correspond with has publicly blamed me for his new toy and now we
need to tune it up at WOT.  Was trying to keep up, but everything got lost
in a torrent of commercialism stuff.  To the reverse enguneerer, rest
assured that this low fangler and myself intend to use it solely on engines
we build up and intend to toss it in our bag of tricks and not market it by
itself for profit.  It would really help us on some projects under way.

Refrigerants

Sounds like someone is trying to adapt the ammonia absorption cycle
refrigeration system to use as an intercooler.  What is interesting is that
although this cycle is less "efficient" at cooling than a compressed gas
cycle, it gets it's pumping energy from heat - in the case of a propane RV
refrigerator from a small propane flame, or in this case from the waste heat
of the exhaust.  The problem is probably the exhaust temperatures raise the
ammonia/water solution past the efficient working range and the gentleman is
looking for another absorption cycle fluid that will work in this range.
Just my uneducated, plebeian guess.

On water injection, once upon a time about a hundred years before OTTO or
Diesel published, a man called Watt wrote the book about water and steam.
Since then, there is a whole field of engineering and science devoted to the
fact that water is NOT an ideal gas and steam detests the Carnot cycle.
Ricardo has been mentioned - a fine M.E. starting place - but really, not
only is there a book about how water is different, but a whole damned
encyclopedia.  Without consulting a few chapters of this information, what
is being presented is simply anal extraction - something I have been accused
of and occasionally guilty of myself.

Little things to keep in mind (following data is from recall - somebody
buried my best reference three feet under in his reading room library - and
is subject to ERROR).

Water raised to aprox 705 f degrees creates steam at 3206 PSI. This is the
highest temperature and pressure saturated steam can develop.  Superheated
(dry) steam temp pressure scales skyrocket past these numbers into
unbelievablum.  Keep in mind that 1000 PSI chamber pressure is probably the
max that most engines ever see and then figure out the steam contribution to
that number at 1800F.

Then, without numbers to state exactly, my best recollection is that the
state change energy in Btu's for water to change to steam is far greater
that its ability to absorb heat below the state change.  (Course I don't
have the book handy).  This implies that the water temp for water injection
is almost meaningless.  Also, remember the specific energy figures of fuel
air.  Two sets of data, one where all the energy is used (water condensing)
and the one that is significantly lower - where the water is uncondensed.
See Bruce Hamilton Gasoline FAQ for example.  The difference is the
unrecovered energy trapped in the steam.

Remember that one gallon of gasoline combusted makes two gallons of
uncondensed (un mechanically recovered) steam in the exhaust.  Just some
thoughts to stir some cells.



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 14:49:33 1998
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Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 13:30:48 -0500
From: Walter Petermann <corsaro@brokersys.com>
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Subject: Noise from points ignition
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I am designing a system based on a Motorola HC12
>> and need to know if the noise from points ignition will cause problems.

Hellow Chris,
my name is Walter Petermann. I have just recently gotten an internet
account and joined this discussion group.
I have a home business repairing fuel injection computers for Jaguars
and I have a general interest fuel injection systems along with a few
years background in electronic design.

I have not followed the thread of your messages to the group, but based
on what I have read today, here is some input which may/may not be
usefull to you.

On the Jag (V12 80's) there are separate systems for the fuel injection
and ignition. The fuel injection brain (ECU) uses the signal from the
negative terminal of the ignition coil to generate the timing for the
injectors. There are twelve injectors split into two banks of six. Every
six 'ground pulses' that the ECU senses on the coil negative,
it fires one bank of the six injectors.

The ground pulse sensing cicuit is as follows:
The negative coil terminal signal goes through a 22K resistor into
both inputs of a nand/schmitt trigger gate. The output of the gate
is tied directly to the microprocessor.This gives a positive pulse to
the uP during the time the ignition system has the coil grounded.
The inputs of the nand gate are protected by a 5.1V zener to ground, and
a copacitor ( which is too small for me to read the numbers off of..) to
ground.

The nand gate chip is an RCA  CD4093BE
Hope this was helpfull,
  Walter

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 15:08:59 1998
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Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 15:18:59 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
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Am i getting out? do not bother answering - I f I cannot read this on
the NG, your replies won't reach me either. Thanks.

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 15:19:50 1998
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Subject: Re: Refrigerants
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 15:22:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <199805031809.EAA05609@corinna.its.utas.edu.au> from "Danny Barrett" at May 4, 98 04:09:46 am
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> 
> Sorry, wrong again...
> got nothing to do with an intercooler, in fact nothing to do with the intake
> air. Also, nothing to do with cooling the heads, although, I could add it
> in, and make the thing work even better.....

fuel cooling
I have seen this done with the sameunit I previously described
oil temp contorl could also be done
or maybe even ex gas temp control

Clive 

> 
> Danny Barrett.
> 
> >Gwyn Reedy wrote:
> >> 
> >> Sounds like a refrigerated intercooler to me. What do you call an
> >> intercooler if there is no blower attached? A pre-cooler?
> >
> >I don't think there are any turbochargers that heat the air up to 500
> >deg C... That's damn hot! I think it might be a new cooling system, so
> >the heads are nice and cool=> run more boost, less knock, more power. Am
> >I close? This is a neat puzzle ;)
> >
> >A.
> >
> >
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 15:32:04 1998
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Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 15:42:03 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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Hate to use bandwidth etc for non EFI use, but Garfield, if you are out
there, I cannot reach you at pilgrimhouse, or the airsig. I can reach
DIY EFI and I know you are on here, so please reply - I talmost appears
there may be a problem at your end, As I have verified I can hit DIY EFI
and cannot even ping pi;grimhouse or interstice.

To the rest of you guys out there, sorry about the intrusion and the
"noise"

-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 16:00:31 1998
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In a message dated 98-05-03 11:53:02 EDT, jlindeke@bsfh.org writes:

<< If it has to do with Intercooling then i'm intrested. I;t would be really
cool to 
 have the air going into my intake at freezing tempatures. 
 --Jake Lindeke
 --Temple Terrace, FL.
 
 > Sounds like a refrigerated intercooler to me. What do you call an
 > intercooler if there is no blower attached? A pre-cooler?
 > 
 > If you can find a refrigerant that will work down to about -100C or
whatever
 > the temp of 'dry ice' is, then you can make a practical refrigerated
 > intercooler suitable for drag races, or longer races if you have a large
dry
 > ice bin. >>

You should be able to take methanol down to about -100C. But I think you need
a very large sized refrigeration unit to do so. I had once considered using an
intercooler made of a polymer (which kind I'm not sure...but it'd be a foam)
allowing you to use liquid nitrogen as a coolant. So imagine a liquid-to-air
intercooler without the hassle of a coolant circulation system. Just fill up
the intercooler's tank with liquid nitrogen and leave it there for a month or
two before refilling...  
As for chilling intake air...I was always afraid of the damage that could
result if the intake piping started developing precipitation and water entered
the engine...or would that be a problem?

Van <---hasn't posted to list in about a year...  :)

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 16:03:38 1998
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In a message dated 98-05-03 14:23:18 EDT, you write:

<< Sorry, wrong again...
 got nothing to do with an intercooler, in fact nothing to do with the intake
 air. Also, nothing to do with cooling the heads, although, I could add it
 in, and make the thing work even better..... >>

Is it related to the exhaust then...?

Van

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 16:26:26 1998
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In a message dated 98-05-03 15:31:23 EDT, you write:

<< fuel cooling
 I have seen this done with the sameunit I previously described
 oil temp contorl could also be done
 or maybe even ex gas temp control >>

Now there's an interesting idea...and assuming that you have a fuel system
(injectors, regulator, etc...) capable of handling super-cooled fuel, how much
of a gain can you expect from using cold fuel? 

I also had a quick question to ask the list...about turbocharging a
carbeurated car. I was considering throwing a turbo on to a datsun U20 engine
(from a 2000 roadster) and running a blow-through setup. What types of things
would I have to take into consideration as far as the fuel regulation and
sealing of the intake is concerned? I drew a quick sketch of my idea that can
be see at: http://members.aol.com/idiscool/turbo.jpg
It's a simple, non-intercooled setup that would probably be limited to no more
than 5-7psi...I think I'm also going to put on a thicker head gasker to lower
compression...just to be safe. Any help/advice/info/comments would be great.
Thanks a lot...!

Van

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 16:34:33 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 13:35:15 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Sun, 3 May 1998 11:39:37 -0700, "Robert Harris"
<bob@bobthecomputerguy.com> wrote:

>Having been led astray for the last few weeks, May I make a request?  To the
>developer of the wide range EGO, could you E-mail me privately (or on the
>list).  Need to know more about it.  Seems a certain low fangler that I
>sometimes correspond with has publicly blamed me for his new toy and now we
>need to tune it up at WOT.

Oh sire, wherein have you been led astray? Doth make for such a wide and
pithy lament, I know not what to reply. I trust t'weren't me that Pied
Piped you, since I tain't been here for the last few weeks. B)

OK, noughOdat nonsense. Time for another UPDATE, anyhoo. We've been
hoping for a couple weeks now to just turn the ole corner our
diyEGOmeter project has been hiding behind, and before I worry anyone,
NO, it's NOT "Houston, we have a problem", it's more like "Houston, I
can't seem to get my socks on". The circuit is all done, dressed up, but
with no place to go. Here's what's goin on.

Behind the scenes, Frank and I have been trying to build the "DIY
Standard Mark I Dragon Belch" device, an eXhaust gas simulator idea
Frank came up with, to make a burner pipe with O2 & T-couple bungs along
the length, and fired with a propane burner of goodly proportion,
allowing us a controllable range of mixture and temps for testing. NO,
it ain't gazolini-fired, but since we only wanna compare a known good
EGOmeter to our diy gizmo, I'd be to purpose.

Here's the deal, on which we have both agreed to withstand all arguments
should there be huesNcrys from the galleries. We are NOT gonna release
the schematic until we've had a go at testing the diyEgor side-by-side
the NTK standard one that Frank has, and run the diyThang through sweeps
of both rich and lean, to make sure it works OK and we don't infact have
anything unhappy to report back to Houston. The reason for the extra
caution is that NO MATTER how many people say, "Oh, well, just publish
the schematic and let us have a try", the fact remains that you would
HAVE to expense the $130someodd buckeroos to buy the sensor, and then IF
we found the circuit had some problem, our name's would be mud, bud. So
even if you say publically or privately ad infinitum, that you're in
such a rush that you can't wait till we test the thang to be sure, well,
just save yer breathNfingertips, cuz on this one we've sworn amongst
these Two Musketeers that we ain't gonna budge.

So what's the holdup? Well, we've both tried to build one of these
Dragon Belches, and it looks like the test apparatus might just be a
harder design problem than the dang meter itself! Hee, what a hoot. I
don't know exactly what kinda burner Frank tried, but I do know he had
some pals at UofMich in the Glassblowers Lab have a look at his Belch to
see what the problem was, but I got a commercial venturi burner used for
building kilns and small foundry furnaces, and BOTH of us can't get the
required range of mixture. I guess it's hard to make propane flames burn
"rich"? Dunno. So now we're considering other options for testing (one
of which is obviously we could put two opposed bungs in a stock auto
exhaust, and detune the engine to do our testing), and we WILL get there
soon, but the whole thing's kinda been stretched outta proportion, given
how FAST the design of the circuit came together in comparison.

Anyway, things ARE moving along pretty decent (compare this to how long
it took to get the 332 stuff together... I know, an unfair comparison,
this circuit is a fly-spec compared to the 332 stuff, but you see me
point?), and all I can say at this point is, there's JUST the final
testing to do, and then it'll be "soup". So that's not such a daunting
obstacle before us, and I trust we CAN all keep our shirts on until
that's done. OK, end of update.

Now, on to Robert's hint that he's in urgent need of more info cuz he
plans to use it in a closed-loop WOT setup. Mind you, as we've said
before, I'm gonna release the schematic for the basic "instrument" if
you will, that hopefully will produce an output curve of V vrs. O2 very
similar to the NTK box, since it passes the uncooked "Ion Pump Current"
turned into a voltage range from 0-5V on out as an output. Beyond THAT,
everyone with their own particular interests, be it "meters", or
data-logging meters, or closed-loop engine managers like Robert wants to
do, will need to layer ontop of this basic "instrument", their own
designs to accomplish their particular task.

For the time being, I would GUESS (again, since this ain't my primary
"locus of hocus pocus", exactly, I can only guestimate) that all you
need do for preparation to include the basic instrument in a closed loop
controller scheme is plan for the code to read the output V from Egor,
and map that to some value of AFR/Lambda. Beyond that basic concept, if
one wants to use a conventionally coded ECM that's looking for
"stoich-crossings", and your idea is to be able to "dial in" a
particular target AFR, this also seems quite easy, just a simple
comparator with a tiny bit of hysteresis to keep it from oscillating,
compare the basic Egor's output to your desired setpoint, and you'll
either get a rich or lean output from the comparator as your "pretend"
O2 sensor output, sorta re-defining stoich if you will. [BTW, this
concept wasn't my idea, of course. Someone on the group mentioned it in
passing one day, and I don't even remember who, if it matters to anyone.
Just don't intend this to make it sound like I thot that one up, thas
all].

I know that Bruce has some slightly more elaborate plans to use the
setpoint AFR idea, along with normal ECM control during lower power
demands on the engine. I mention this just to say that there are all
kinds of variations on a theme possible, but all yous guys need to know
at this point in your scheming, is that Egor will put out either 2.5 or
3.0V at stoich (you can choose; the NTK centers stoich around 3.0V cuz
that gives them a more even range of AFRs on both lean and rich sides),
but centering the output at 2.5V makes the circuit fewer parts and the
voltage references more solid. Beyond that, it's just a signal that goes
from 2.5/3.0 up to about 4.75V on the lean side, and down to near 0.25V
on the rich side. The curves on either side are fairly linear, but each
has a different slope, so for "measurement" purposes, you will need a
map or table of some sort, if you're using a micro. For those who want
to build a simple analog/led hand-held meter without the complexity of a
micro, I'll supply a two-piece linearizer circuit for ya. I DON'T think
we should build that into the basic Egor (we're not), like Horiba has
done, because any time you have linearization, you have temperature
coefficient errors from the scaling resistors, and if you're using a
micro, YOU don't need no stinking linearizer, nor the errors they can
introduce, both from the linearization itself, and the temp errors. Thas
why that decision.

OK, that's probably more than enough outta me for now. We'll keep ya
posted on how the testing's going. And I'll try to give ya updates at
least once a week now, until the Fat Lady sings. She'll be comin round
the mountain... (hmm, kinda mixing my music metphors there, eh?).

Cheers maties,
Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 16:46:03 1998
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Subject: Re: Garfield - please reply here.
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 13:46:45 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Sun, 03 May 1998 15:42:03 -0400, Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
wrote:

>Hate to use bandwidth etc for non EFI use, but Garfield, if you are out
>there, I cannot reach you at pilgrimhouse, or the airsig. I can reach
>DIY EFI and I know you are on here, so please reply - I talmost appears
>there may be a problem at your end, As I have verified I can hit DIY EFI
>and cannot even ping pi;grimhouse or interstice.
>
>To the rest of you guys out there, sorry about the intrusion and the
>"noise"

Yeah, I think you should be ashamed of yourself. Now lemme see, what can
we have him do for us whilst he's overcome with guilt. Heh.

Anyway, reading you 5 by 5, OVER. Both the P'house & Interstice are fine
and we're getting posts and email inNout. My guess is when they brought
your dead server back to life this morning, they managled something to
do with DNS. It may be workin some, but it don't look like it's
operating on all cylinders just yet. Just me dos centavos, on that one.

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 18:25:15 1998
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Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 18:28:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <355cc4ac.10481718@santaclara01.pop.internex.net> from "garfield@pilgrimhouse.com" at May 3, 98 01:35:15 pm
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> 
> Behind the scenes, Frank and I have been trying to build the "DIY
> Standard Mark I Dragon Belch" device, an eXhaust gas simulator idea
> Frank came up with, to make a burner pipe with O2 & T-couple bungs along
> the length, and fired with a propane burner of goodly proportion,
> allowing us a controllable range of mixture and temps for testing. NO,
> it ain't gazolini-fired, but since we only wanna compare a known good
> EGOmeter to our diy gizmo, I'd be to purpose.

why not use a small gas engine for the belchometer
you can rig a custom exhaust in a matter of hours to fit 
a 5-10hp waterpump engine and tinker with the carb adj to test mixtures
most of these engines will run from 20-10:1 on mixture
and you cna get this control level at the carb adj screw
this would be the range we would want to look at anyways

if you need more heat in the exhaust build a double wall pipe
and heat the otehr chamber with the outpu from your propane burner

Clive 





From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 18:40:48 1998
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From: Frank F Parker <fparker@umich.edu>
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> why not use a small gas engine for the belchometer
> you can rig a custom exhaust in a matter of hours to fit 
> a 5-10hp waterpump engine and tinker with the carb adj to test mixtures
> most of these engines will run from 20-10:1 on mixture
> and you cna get this control level at the carb adj screw
> this would be the range we would want to look at anyways
> Clive 
> 
That is a good idea. I have a 8hp Kohler 4 stroke used in Troy Built
tiller that might work pretty good for that. I will see if I can tig
something up to try.

frank parker



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 19:23:09 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Return of the diy_EGOmeter (YES, it's finally ALIVE!!)
Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 16:23:24 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Sun, 3 May 1998 18:28:17 -0400 (EDT), "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals
416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com> wrote:

>why not use a small gas engine for the belchometer
>you can rig a custom exhaust in a matter of hours to fit 
>a 5-10hp waterpump engine and tinker with the carb adj to test mixtures
>most of these engines will run from 20-10:1 on mixture
>and you cna get this control level at the carb adj screw
>this would be the range we would want to look at anyways

That's a nice idea. Wish I or Frank has such a lil beasty to use as a
lab rat. Sorta a Baby Dragon Burp generator. I'm a townie, and all my
gardening machinery is electric, including my lawnmower!

BTW, lest this thread spawn a whole lotta suggestions on how we might do
the testing, lemme just tell ya I think we've got that taken care of.
It's just likely to take a couple more weeks. I just got a note from
Frank, and it sounds like one solution IS on the horizon. We'll keep ya
posted.

I have a theory on why we had such trouble with the propane; my guess is
it's not the fuel, of course, but the type of burner. Most of them
operate on a venturi that has a sorta automatic metering built into the
fact that the pressure of the gas determines the induced airflow in the
venturi, so it's kinda hard to vary the AFR very much, you reduce the
amount of gas, and you reduce the amount of air. Course they do have
provision for adjusting the opening by which air enters the venturi, but
to a large extent, if you increase the vacuum in the venturi, that just
increases the velocity of the air thru the inlet; maybe OK for tweaking,
but not the best method for effecting *large* swings in mixture.

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 19:24:47 1998
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Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 19:34:59 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Refrigerants
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DemonTSi wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 98-05-03 14:23:18 EDT, you write:
> 
> << Sorry, wrong again...
>  got nothing to do with an intercooler, in fact nothing to do with the intake
>  air. Also, nothing to do with cooling the heads, although, I could add it
>  in, and make the thing work even better..... >>
> 
> Is it related to the exhaust then...?
> 
> Van
Likely something esoteric like cryogenic natural gas injection -
otherwise known as liquid phase natural gas injection.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 20:43:13 1998
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Refrigerants
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 02:38:25 +0200
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----------
> From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: Re: Refrigerants
> Date: 3. mai 1998 20:17
> 
> An intercooler might be a great idea, but this isn't one. Sorry guys...
> You'll have to guess again...
> 
ok I will try:I have one idee my self, to cool the exhaust before it enters
the turbo
charger.It could be a way of widening the dynamic range of the turbine, and
lower the exhaust backpressure.A kind of boost control, without wastgate.
I thought of spraying water into the exhaust manifold.
Espen Hilde

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 21:01:08 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Refrigerants
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 11:00:57 +1000
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Try a Peltier effect cell - used in those cheap KMart cigarette lighter 
powered coolers. Problem may be efficiency, such that the power require to 
run it would load the alternator and negate any power benefits.

----------
From: 	Gwyn Reedy
Sent: 	Sunday, May 03, 1998 10:24 PM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: Refrigerants

Sounds like a refrigerated intercooler to me. What do you call an
intercooler if there is no blower attached? A pre-cooler?

If you can find a refrigerant that will work down to about -100C or 
whatever
the temp of 'dry ice' is, then you can make a practical refrigerated
intercooler suitable for drag races, or longer races if you have a large 
dry
ice bin.

Gwyn Reedy
Brandon, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, May 03, 1998 8:08 AM
Subject: Refrigerants


>Does anyone out there know anything about refrigerants? I need to know if
>there are any refrigerants (or series thereof) that will work between 
about
>20 deg C, and about 500 to 600 deg C. This might not sound like EFI to me,
>but I am working on an invention that has everything to do with EFI, and
the
>use of such refrigerants would make this device much better. Sorry, I 
can't
>disclose what the invention is at the moment, as I might want to take out 
a
>patent in the future (NOTE: This invention has nothing to do with water
>injection, of which I am currently discussing with various prople). 
Thanks.
>
>Danny Barrett.
>



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=`#T``0````4```!213H@``````,`#33]-P``,Q%V
`
end



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 21:06:04 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Refrigerants
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 11:05:02 +1000
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My bid.......

Peltier effect cells cooling fuel?

Just kidding :-)

Peter


----------
From: 	Danny Barrett
Sent: 	Monday, May 04, 1998 4:09 AM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: Refrigerants

Sorry, wrong again...
got nothing to do with an intercooler, in fact nothing to do with the intake
air. Also, nothing to do with cooling the heads, although, I could add it
in, and make the thing work even better.....

Danny Barrett.

>Gwyn Reedy wrote:
>> 
>> Sounds like a refrigerated intercooler to me. What do you call an
>> intercooler if there is no blower attached? A pre-cooler?
>
>I don't think there are any turbochargers that heat the air up to 500
>deg C... That's damn hot! I think it might be a new cooling system, so
>the heads are nice and cool=> run more boost, less knock, more power. Am
>I close? This is a neat puzzle ;)
>
>A.
>
>



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From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 21:09:54 1998
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From: "David" <david@gardener.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 101 Stuff
Date: Sun, 3 May 1998 20:10:31 -0500
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Your prices seem high.

The local pick it yourself charges $ 25.00 for the ECU and $ 5.00 to 10.00
for the harness depending who is collecting money that day.

David

-----Original Message-----
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, May 01, 1998 2:07 AM
Subject: Re: 101 Stuff


|Bruce Plecan wrote:
|>
|> We here at CSH., HQ., are experiencing a technical problem.
|> While slightly off list, the edge is blurring here between personal
|> and 101 projects.  Anyway, we need a couple things.  1. a set
|> of ecm connectors like used on the 747's (it used two connectors),
|> 2. a set off a 730 type ecm (it had three connectors), with like a
|> foot (preferably more) of wire on them for doing some bench work.
|> 3. Then a entire harness outta like a 90-91 2.8 Celebrity, or any other
|> 1227730 ecm equipped car.  Not looking for freebies, just resonable
|> priced ones.
|> Nor a worry mate.
|> Bruce
|
|
|What's reasonable?  Local bone yard sells harnesses for $50,
|and ECM for $50.  Can maybe get both for $75, but seems high
|to me.  If interested, I'll make some calls.
|
|Shannen
|




From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 21:33:13 1998
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In a message dated 98-05-03 13:13:57 EDT, you write:

<< 
 I've got Deltagate wastegates to use, so I think I'll start out w/ the 5
 psi springs. Once I get the fuel curve dialed in, I'll raise the boost
 to 8-10 psi. I'm still on the stock iron crappy heads, stock cam
 (actually, half decent for a blown application...) and stock cast 9.0:!
 cast bottom end. I'm taking it slow since I can't afford a new motor at
 the beginning of this summer...
  >>
Andris,
Does this setup have a knock sensor?
Mike V

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 22:20:19 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: RE: Refrigerants, Wide range EGO and other thoughts.
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Some interesting thoughts here - I'll have to re-read this when I have the
time (ie. about the water injection).

As for refrigerants, I am intending to extract heat from the exhaust, but
not for an intercooler - the only thing I'll tell you is that I intend to
"recycle" otherwise wasted heat energy. As for detail - You guys will simply
have to wait...





>Refrigerants
>
>Sounds like someone is trying to adapt the ammonia absorption cycle
>refrigeration system to use as an intercooler.  What is interesting is that
>although this cycle is less "efficient" at cooling than a compressed gas
>cycle, it gets it's pumping energy from heat - in the case of a propane RV
>refrigerator from a small propane flame, or in this case from the waste heat
>of the exhaust.  The problem is probably the exhaust temperatures raise the
>ammonia/water solution past the efficient working range and the gentleman is
>looking for another absorption cycle fluid that will work in this range.
>Just my uneducated, plebeian guess.
>
>On water injection, once upon a time about a hundred years before OTTO or
>Diesel published, a man called Watt wrote the book about water and steam.
>Since then, there is a whole field of engineering and science devoted to the
>fact that water is NOT an ideal gas and steam detests the Carnot cycle.
>Ricardo has been mentioned - a fine M.E. starting place - but really, not
>only is there a book about how water is different, but a whole damned
>encyclopedia.  Without consulting a few chapters of this information, what
>is being presented is simply anal extraction - something I have been accused
>of and occasionally guilty of myself.
>
>Little things to keep in mind (following data is from recall - somebody
>buried my best reference three feet under in his reading room library - and
>is subject to ERROR).
>
>Water raised to aprox 705 f degrees creates steam at 3206 PSI. This is the
>highest temperature and pressure saturated steam can develop.  Superheated
>(dry) steam temp pressure scales skyrocket past these numbers into
>unbelievablum.  Keep in mind that 1000 PSI chamber pressure is probably the
>max that most engines ever see and then figure out the steam contribution to
>that number at 1800F.
>
>Then, without numbers to state exactly, my best recollection is that the
>state change energy in Btu's for water to change to steam is far greater
>that its ability to absorb heat below the state change.  (Course I don't
>have the book handy).  This implies that the water temp for water injection
>is almost meaningless.  Also, remember the specific energy figures of fuel
>air.  Two sets of data, one where all the energy is used (water condensing)
>and the one that is significantly lower - where the water is uncondensed.
>See Bruce Hamilton Gasoline FAQ for example.  The difference is the
>unrecovered energy trapped in the steam.
>
>Remember that one gallon of gasoline combusted makes two gallons of
>uncondensed (un mechanically recovered) steam in the exhaust.  Just some
>thoughts to stir some cells.
>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 22:23:17 1998
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Subject: Re: Refrigerants
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Sorry, once agian, good idea, but not what I'm doing....

Danny Barrett.

>> Sorry, wrong again...
>> got nothing to do with an intercooler, in fact nothing to do with the intake
>> air. Also, nothing to do with cooling the heads, although, I could add it
>> in, and make the thing work even better.....
>
>fuel cooling
>I have seen this done with the sameunit I previously described
>oil temp contorl could also be done
>or maybe even ex gas temp control
>
>Clive 
>
>> 
>> Danny Barrett.
>> 
>> >Gwyn Reedy wrote:
>> >> 
>> >> Sounds like a refrigerated intercooler to me. What do you call an
>> >> intercooler if there is no blower attached? A pre-cooler?
>> >
>> >I don't think there are any turbochargers that heat the air up to 500
>> >deg C... That's damn hot! I think it might be a new cooling system, so
>> >the heads are nice and cool=> run more boost, less knock, more power. Am
>> >I close? This is a neat puzzle ;)
>> >
>> >A.
>> >
>> >
>> 
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 22:25:21 1998
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Subject: Re: Refrigerants
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Perhaps....


>In a message dated 98-05-03 14:23:18 EDT, you write:
>
><< Sorry, wrong again...
> got nothing to do with an intercooler, in fact nothing to do with the intake
> air. Also, nothing to do with cooling the heads, although, I could add it
> in, and make the thing work even better..... >>
>
>Is it related to the exhaust then...?
>
>Van
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 22:28:21 1998
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Subject: Re: Refrigerants
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*Interesting* idea, but still not what I'm doing...




>DemonTSi wrote:
>> 
>> In a message dated 98-05-03 14:23:18 EDT, you write:
>> 
>> << Sorry, wrong again...
>>  got nothing to do with an intercooler, in fact nothing to do with the intake
>>  air. Also, nothing to do with cooling the heads, although, I could add it
>>  in, and make the thing work even better..... >>
>> 
>> Is it related to the exhaust then...?
>> 
>> Van
>Likely something esoteric like cryogenic natural gas injection -
>otherwise known as liquid phase natural gas injection.
>-- 
>                               _/\_
>                       --|-----([])-----|--
>                         S    0/  \0    B
>         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
>                  E-Mail service is back to normal
>                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
>                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
>                                OR
>Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
>spammers!!!
>It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
>Turkeys!!!
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 22:32:17 1998
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Subject: Re: Refrigerants
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No, wrong again. HOWEVER..... To increase the efficiency of the turbo, you
could use part of my invention to *decrease* the temperature at the
*exhaust* end of the turbo, and *increase* it at the *intake* end of the
turbo... Increases thermal efficiency - Nice one...


>----------
>> From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
>> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>> Subject: Re: Refrigerants
>> Date: 3. mai 1998 20:17
>> 
>> An intercooler might be a great idea, but this isn't one. Sorry guys...
>> You'll have to guess again...
>> 
>ok I will try:I have one idee my self, to cool the exhaust before it enters
>the turbo
>charger.It could be a way of widening the dynamic range of the turbine, and
>lower the exhaust backpressure.A kind of boost control, without wastgate.
>I thought of spraying water into the exhaust manifold.
>Espen Hilde
>
>


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Message-ID: <01BD7758.10B27480.dzorde@soanar.com.au>
From: Dan Zorde <dzorde@soanar.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Water Injection. What do we agree on so far?
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 12:27:54 +0800
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I remember my grandad telling me they used to use carbonated mineral water when 
de-coking the engines, apparently this worked much better as plain water tended 
to stall the engine.

Dan	dzorde@soanar.com.au

-----Original Message-----
From:	Jim Davies [SMTP:jimd@vcc.bc.ca]
Sent:	Sunday, 03 May, 1998 11:39 PM
To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:	Re: Water Injection. What do we agree on so far?



On Sun, 3 May 1998, Danny Barrett wrote:

> OK Gents. This discussion has happened a few times before, if we look in the
> archives, and to what I can tell, not once has a definitive answer been
> obtained as to whether water injection would/should work in normally
> aspirated engines.

Why not get a copy of Ricardo's High Speed Engines and you will find
everything you need on this subject. Most editions [maybe all] have this
information.

Jim Davies


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 22:36:45 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: RE: Refrigerants
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Just had this guess... Sorry... Not what I'm doing... Nice try though.

Just a thought... isn't it interesting how if you say you have a "secret,"
that you have to keep to yourself for now, everyone seems to try to guess
what it is.....

Danny Barrett.

>My bid.......
>
>Peltier effect cells cooling fuel?
>
>Just kidding :-)
>
>Peter
>
>
>----------
>From: 	Danny Barrett
>Sent: 	Monday, May 04, 1998 4:09 AM
>To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject: 	Re: Refrigerants
>
>Sorry, wrong again...
>got nothing to do with an intercooler, in fact nothing to do with the intake
>air. Also, nothing to do with cooling the heads, although, I could add it
>in, and make the thing work even better.....
>
>Danny Barrett.
>
>>Gwyn Reedy wrote:
>>> 
>>> Sounds like a refrigerated intercooler to me. What do you call an
>>> intercooler if there is no blower attached? A pre-cooler?
>>
>>I don't think there are any turbochargers that heat the air up to 500
>>deg C... That's damn hot! I think it might be a new cooling system, so
>>the heads are nice and cool=> run more boost, less knock, more power. Am
>>I close? This is a neat puzzle ;)
>>
>>A.
>>
>>
>
>
>
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 22:50:52 1998
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From: "John Carroll" <jac@wavecom.net>
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I have always wanted to use surplus exhaust heat to run a 
power unit that would crank the alternator, a/c and power 
steering.  The unit can be mounted remotely from the engine 
and located where the weight and volume can be best 
accomodated.  Without those accessories the engine 
will be slim and trim.  There would likely be a surplus 
of electric power available so even the water pump can be 
electric.  Good idea

John Carroll

John Carroll
jac@wavecom.net

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 23:01:45 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: Refrigerants
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Back again - of course you know this isn't my idea (from my previous reply
to this email). However, I've read it again... I don't think you should cool
the exhaust before the turbo too much (unless it is getting too hot), but in
turbine engines (ie. in the "Harrier jump jet"), water injection is used to
increase the mass flow, and make the thrust larger (someone has said this
before - it might be in the archives under water injection). Adding water to
your exhaust before the turbo might increase its boost. But then again, it
might not. Anyone know more about turbines who can confirm/deny this???

Danny Barrett.


>----------
>> From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
>> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>> Subject: Re: Refrigerants
>> Date: 3. mai 1998 20:17
>> 
>> An intercooler might be a great idea, but this isn't one. Sorry guys...
>> You'll have to guess again...
>> 
>ok I will try:I have one idee my self, to cool the exhaust before it enters
>the turbo
>charger.It could be a way of widening the dynamic range of the turbine, and
>lower the exhaust backpressure.A kind of boost control, without wastgate.
>I thought of spraying water into the exhaust manifold.
>Espen Hilde
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 23:36:35 1998
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Date: Sun, 03 May 1998 23:36:16 -0400
From: Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
Subject: Re: Blown fuel/timing maps
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Yes, it does. It's CSH proof (almost!)

> Does this setup have a knock sensor?
> Mike V

-- 
*********Skulte Performance Designs---WWW.SKULTE.COM**********
      Your third and fourth generation f-body specialists
******89 IROC M5 305TPI---13.5@104.1--320 hp/475 ft-lbs*******

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 23:48:35 1998
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Clive Apps Techno-Logicals 416 510 0020 wrote:
> 
> >
> > If it has to do with Intercooling then i'm intrested. I;t would be really cool to
> > have the air going into my intake at freezing tempatures.
> 
> I have already seen a device that refrigerates the incoming air
> somwhere in a magazine
> it does make a difference
> if you can keep the air at about -20 you cna tune up to 10% more power
> out of an engine over running air at underhood temps ~150
> plus you cna run more comp and timing as well to bump it up a little more
> 
> > > Sounds like a refrigerated intercooler to me. What do you call an
> > > intercooler if there is no blower attached? A pre-cooler?
> > >
> > > If you can find a refrigerant that will work down to about -100C or whatever
> > > the temp of 'dry ice' is, then you can make a practical refrigerated
> > > intercooler suitable for drag races, or longer races if you have a large dry
> > > ice bin.
> 
> ammonia may work across these temp extremes
> but it is not very efficient
> from what I can remeber
> 
> Clive

I wonder if there's any power to be found by ducting intake
air through the factory a/c evaporator?  

Shannen

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Subject: Re: Refrigerants
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 00:00:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <199805040246.UAA20498@wavecom.net> from "John Carroll" at May 3, 98 08:49:59 pm
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if you could get a large enough thermo couple you could use it to generate
enough power by removing waste heat from the ex
then use and electric waterpump, amd maybe even electric PS pump
> 
> 
> I have always wanted to use surplus exhaust heat to run a 
> power unit that would crank the alternator, a/c and power 
> steering.  The unit can be mounted remotely from the engine 
> and located where the weight and volume can be best 
> accomodated.  Without those accessories the engine 
> will be slim and trim.  There would likely be a surplus 
> of electric power available so even the water pump can be 
> electric.  Good idea

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 23:57:36 1998
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Subject: Re: Refrigerants
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I can see that my question has produces a plethora of new (but some may not
be) ideas, but this one still isn't what I am doing. It might be a good idea
though, if the power unit doesn't weigh too much...

Danny Barrett


>I have always wanted to use surplus exhaust heat to run a 
>power unit that would crank the alternator, a/c and power 
>steering.  The unit can be mounted remotely from the engine 
>and located where the weight and volume can be best 
>accomodated.  Without those accessories the engine 
>will be slim and trim.  There would likely be a surplus 
>of electric power available so even the water pump can be 
>electric.  Good idea
>
>John Carroll
>
>John Carroll
>jac@wavecom.net
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May  3 23:59:59 1998
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David wrote:
> 
> Your prices seem high.
> 
> The local pick it yourself charges $ 25.00 for the ECU and $ 5.00 to 10.00
> for the harness depending who is collecting money that day.
> 
> David
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Friday, May 01, 1998 2:07 AM
> Subject: Re: 101 Stuff
> 
> |Bruce Plecan wrote:
> |>
> |> We here at CSH., HQ., are experiencing a technical problem.
> |> While slightly off list, the edge is blurring here between personal
> |> and 101 projects.  Anyway, we need a couple things.  1. a set
> |> of ecm connectors like used on the 747's (it used two connectors),
> |> 2. a set off a 730 type ecm (it had three connectors), with like a
> |> foot (preferably more) of wire on them for doing some bench work.
> |> 3. Then a entire harness outta like a 90-91 2.8 Celebrity, or any other
> |> 1227730 ecm equipped car.  Not looking for freebies, just resonable
> |> priced ones.
> |> Nor a worry mate.
> |> Bruce
> |
> |
> |What's reasonable?  Local bone yard sells harnesses for $50,
> |and ECM for $50.  Can maybe get both for $75, but seems high
> |to me.  If interested, I'll make some calls.
> |
> |Shannen
> |
I'll call you on that.  When you have a harness and ECM from
86-91 chev pickup (1227747 ecm) let me know.  I'm sure
there's a deal in there.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 00:00:58 1998
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David wrote:
> 
> Your prices seem high.
> 
> The local pick it yourself charges $ 25.00 for the ECU and $ 5.00 to 10.00
> for the harness depending who is collecting money that day.
> 
> David
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Friday, May 01, 1998 2:07 AM
> Subject: Re: 101 Stuff
> 
> |Bruce Plecan wrote:
> |>
> |> We here at CSH., HQ., are experiencing a technical problem.
> |> While slightly off list, the edge is blurring here between personal
> |> and 101 projects.  Anyway, we need a couple things.  1. a set
> |> of ecm connectors like used on the 747's (it used two connectors),
> |> 2. a set off a 730 type ecm (it had three connectors), with like a
> |> foot (preferably more) of wire on them for doing some bench work.
> |> 3. Then a entire harness outta like a 90-91 2.8 Celebrity, or any other
> |> 1227730 ecm equipped car.  Not looking for freebies, just resonable
> |> priced ones.
> |> Nor a worry mate.
> |> Bruce
> |
> |
> |What's reasonable?  Local bone yard sells harnesses for $50,
> |and ECM for $50.  Can maybe get both for $75, but seems high
> |to me.  If interested, I'll make some calls.
> |
> |Shannen
> |
I'll call you on that.  When you have a harness and ECM from
86-91 chev pickup (1227747 ecm) let me know.  I'm sure
there's a deal in there.

Or, when you have the harness and ECM from 2.8l 1227730 car,
the same applies.  

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 00:09:32 1998
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Subject: Re: Refrigerants
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Why stop with water? fuel would spin the turbo faster. Less lag.
dave balfour
-----Original Message-----
From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, May 03, 1998 10:39 PM
Subject: Re: Refrigerants


>Back again - of course you know this isn't my idea (from my previous
reply
>to this email). However, I've read it again... I don't think you
should cool
>the exhaust before the turbo too much (unless it is getting too
hot), but in
>turbine engines (ie. in the "Harrier jump jet"), water injection is
used to
>increase the mass flow, and make the thrust larger (someone has said
this
>before - it might be in the archives under water injection). Adding
water to
>your exhaust before the turbo might increase its boost. But then
again, it
>might not. Anyone know more about turbines who can confirm/deny
this???
>
>Danny Barrett.
>
>
>>----------
>>> From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
>>> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>>> Subject: Re: Refrigerants
>>> Date: 3. mai 1998 20:17
>>>
>>> An intercooler might be a great idea, but this isn't one. Sorry
guys...
>>> You'll have to guess again...
>>>
>>ok I will try:I have one idee my self, to cool the exhaust before
it enters
>>the turbo
>>charger.It could be a way of widening the dynamic range of the
turbine, and
>>lower the exhaust backpressure.A kind of boost control, without
wastgate.
>>I thought of spraying water into the exhaust manifold.
>>Espen Hilde
>>
>>
>


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Deleted Stuff

>
> Just had this guess... Sorry... Not what I'm doing... Nice try though.
>
> Just a thought... isn't it interesting how if you say you have a "secret,"
> that you have to keep to yourself for now, everyone seems to try to guess
> what it is.....
>
> Danny Barrett.
>

Or if you are truly fiendish,  an insanely diabolical way of trolling for
new ideas ......










From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 00:49:10 1998
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On Mon, 4 May 1998 04:09:46 +1000 (EST) danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au
(Danny Barrett) writes:
>Sorry, wrong again...
>got nothing to do with an intercooler, in fact nothing to do with the
intake
>air. Also, nothing to do with cooling the heads, although, I could add
it
>in, and make the thing work even better.....
>
>Danny Barrett.

Let's see...

Cool the gasoline so that it won't vaporize readily.  Inject it into the
manifold at that temperature, but hook up one of those ultrasonic
transducers that they use in the ultrasonic humidifiers.  That'll atomize
it into really small droplets that'll be too cold to readily evaporate. 
That'll reduce the volume taken up by the vaporized fuel and allow more
air into the engine.

It seems to me that someone sold an ultrasonic fuel atomizer several
years ago.  Has anyone seen one, or even heard of it?  I don't think I'm
imagining things...


Ray Drouillard

_____________________________________________________________________
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From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 00:49:14 1998
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Subject: Re: Refrigerants
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Just thought of something else, this sounds like a Turbo, only with a
generator stuck on its shaft, instead of a compression turbine... Very
interesting... But: Would the power lost due to running the turbo (without a
compressor for the intake charge, that is) be more than the power gain from
not needing to run the alternator, A/C, P/S, oil pump, and the water pump
from the engine's crank? Alternatively, since turbos can give a very high
boost pressure, why not run a small to moderate boost from the turbo, and
ALSO run these devices??? Would the turbo's drive turbine be efficient
enough for this???

Danny Barrett.


>I can see that my question has produces a plethora of new (but some may not
>be) ideas, but this one still isn't what I am doing. It might be a good idea
>though, if the power unit doesn't weigh too much...
>
>Danny Barrett
>
>
>>I have always wanted to use surplus exhaust heat to run a 
>>power unit that would crank the alternator, a/c and power 
>>steering.  The unit can be mounted remotely from the engine 
>>and located where the weight and volume can be best 
>>accomodated.  Without those accessories the engine 
>>will be slim and trim.  There would likely be a surplus 
>>of electric power available so even the water pump can be 
>>electric.  Good idea
>>
>>John Carroll
>>
>>John Carroll
>>jac@wavecom.net
>>
>>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 00:59:06 1998
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Subject: Re: Refrigerants
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Thermocouple... Hmmm... I dunno. How much energy can you get from one? It
seems to me as if we're heading toward trying to get rid of the generator
alltogether, and using something completely different to run the cars
electrics. It wouldn't be a bad idea if it can be made to work... There
wouldn't be the energy loss from turning a gen, and otherwise wasted exhaust
heat goes to a good use. I like the idea. Anyone know much about
thermocouples, etc??? On the other hand, it might be possible to run a steam
turbine (a small one) from the exhaust heat (like turbine power plants do),
and drive the gen, A/C, P/S, oil pump, water pump, etc from it...

Danny Barrett.


>if you could get a large enough thermo couple you could use it to generate
>enough power by removing waste heat from the ex
>then use and electric waterpump, amd maybe even electric PS pump
>> 
>> 
>> I have always wanted to use surplus exhaust heat to run a 
>> power unit that would crank the alternator, a/c and power 
>> steering.  The unit can be mounted remotely from the engine 
>> and located where the weight and volume can be best 
>> accomodated.  Without those accessories the engine 
>> will be slim and trim.  There would likely be a surplus 
>> of electric power available so even the water pump can be 
>> electric.  Good idea
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 01:00:07 1998
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Subject: Re: Refrigerants
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 01:03:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <002701bd7712$6f9cb6e0$c418b1cf@Avonil.net.AvonIL.net> from "Dave Balfour" at May 3, 98 11:09:24 pm
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> 
> Why stop with water? fuel would spin the turbo faster. Less lag.
> dave balfour

they have a porduct called an ALC (anti lag control) that does this
in conjunction with modulating the wastegate
it is commonly used in rally cars
it is very hard on engine compnenets and occasionally overspins
and shatters a turbine


there is almost no usable O2 in the ex that would halp the extra fuel
to burn so more air has te be added as well

Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 01:00:32 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: Refrigerants
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Worse fuel economy, possibility of exhaust manifold being blown off the
engine....

>Why stop with water? fuel would spin the turbo faster. Less lag.
>dave balfour
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
><diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Sunday, May 03, 1998 10:39 PM
>Subject: Re: Refrigerants
>
>
>>Back again - of course you know this isn't my idea (from my previous
>reply
>>to this email). However, I've read it again... I don't think you
>should cool
>>the exhaust before the turbo too much (unless it is getting too
>hot), but in
>>turbine engines (ie. in the "Harrier jump jet"), water injection is
>used to
>>increase the mass flow, and make the thrust larger (someone has said
>this
>>before - it might be in the archives under water injection). Adding
>water to
>>your exhaust before the turbo might increase its boost. But then
>again, it
>>might not. Anyone know more about turbines who can confirm/deny
>this???
>>
>>Danny Barrett.
>>
>>
>>>----------
>>>> From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
>>>> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>>>> Subject: Re: Refrigerants
>>>> Date: 3. mai 1998 20:17
>>>>
>>>> An intercooler might be a great idea, but this isn't one. Sorry
>guys...
>>>> You'll have to guess again...
>>>>
>>>ok I will try:I have one idee my self, to cool the exhaust before
>it enters
>>>the turbo
>>>charger.It could be a way of widening the dynamic range of the
>turbine, and
>>>lower the exhaust backpressure.A kind of boost control, without
>wastgate.
>>>I thought of spraying water into the exhaust manifold.
>>>Espen Hilde
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 01:03:32 1998
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From: Paul Tholey <pft101@psu.edu>
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Shannen,

        Can a 3rd party enter this?  What are 7730 ECM's worth to you?  I
have a local U-Pull-It yard and I would gladly pull stuff for people.  The
ECM's are cake to pull, but a harness takes me at least 3 hours to pull
right.  I am sure there are people faster than me, but that is not the issue.
        This goes out to the rest of the list too.  School is ending, only
for 1 month, finally will be graduating after summer classes :^)  So if I
can spend my days in the yard pulling stuff for people, and keeping an eye
on all of the "fresh kills", this really would be a great summer vacation!

Paul Tholey

At 09:47 PM 5/3/98 -0600, you wrote:
>David wrote:
>> 
>> Your prices seem high.
>> 
>> The local pick it yourself charges $ 25.00 for the ECU and $ 5.00 to 10.00
>> for the harness depending who is collecting money that day.
>> 
>> David
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
>> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>> Date: Friday, May 01, 1998 2:07 AM
>> Subject: Re: 101 Stuff
>> 
>> |Bruce Plecan wrote:
>> |>
>> |> We here at CSH., HQ., are experiencing a technical problem.
>> |> While slightly off list, the edge is blurring here between personal
>> |> and 101 projects.  Anyway, we need a couple things.  1. a set
>> |> of ecm connectors like used on the 747's (it used two connectors),
>> |> 2. a set off a 730 type ecm (it had three connectors), with like a
>> |> foot (preferably more) of wire on them for doing some bench work.
>> |> 3. Then a entire harness outta like a 90-91 2.8 Celebrity, or any other
>> |> 1227730 ecm equipped car.  Not looking for freebies, just resonable
>> |> priced ones.
>> |> Nor a worry mate.
>> |> Bruce
>> |
>> |
>> |What's reasonable?  Local bone yard sells harnesses for $50,
>> |and ECM for $50.  Can maybe get both for $75, but seems high
>> |to me.  If interested, I'll make some calls.
>> |
>> |Shannen
>> |
>I'll call you on that.  When you have a harness and ECM from
>86-91 chev pickup (1227747 ecm) let me know.  I'm sure
>there's a deal in there.
>
>Or, when you have the harness and ECM from 2.8l 1227730 car,
>the same applies.  
>
>Shannen
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 01:55:34 1998
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Subject: RE: Refrigerants
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Hmmmmmm..... I think he's onto me.... (just kidding). As I said before... It
has EVERYTHING to do with Fuel Injection (or at least that is a part of it.
But I can't really say more than that)....

Danny Barrett.



>Deleted Stuff
>
>>
>> Just had this guess... Sorry... Not what I'm doing... Nice try though.
>>
>> Just a thought... isn't it interesting how if you say you have a "secret,"
>> that you have to keep to yourself for now, everyone seems to try to guess
>> what it is.....
>>
>> Danny Barrett.
>>
>
>Or if you are truly fiendish,  an insanely diabolical way of trolling for
>new ideas ......
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 01:57:16 1998
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>> 
>> Why stop with water? fuel would spin the turbo faster. Less lag.
>> dave balfour
>
>they have a porduct called an ALC (anti lag control) that does this
>in conjunction with modulating the wastegate
>it is commonly used in rally cars
>it is very hard on engine compnenets and occasionally overspins
>and shatters a turbine
>
>
>there is almost no usable O2 in the ex that would halp the extra fuel
>to burn so more air has te be added as well
>
>Clive 
>


Yeah - add more fuel, add more air - **##BOOM##**


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Subject: Re: Refrigerants
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The fuel atomiser that I heard of actually "cracked" the fuel, but since
there was no hydrogen present, it only made the molecuels into longer chain
polymers(instead of smaller, higher octane molecules). Fuel economy and
power suffered dramatically (at least to what I had heard). There are better
ways of doing this (I know several people who are developing different types
of systems).
It sounds to me as if your idea is nearly to cool the fuel so it won't
evaporate, and then try to evaporate it, while not really evaporating it...
sounds unusual to me...

Danny Barrett.


>On Mon, 4 May 1998 04:09:46 +1000 (EST) danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au
>(Danny Barrett) writes:
>>Sorry, wrong again...
>>got nothing to do with an intercooler, in fact nothing to do with the
>intake
>>air. Also, nothing to do with cooling the heads, although, I could add
>it
>>in, and make the thing work even better.....
>>
>>Danny Barrett.
>
>Let's see...
>
>Cool the gasoline so that it won't vaporize readily.  Inject it into the
>manifold at that temperature, but hook up one of those ultrasonic
>transducers that they use in the ultrasonic humidifiers.  That'll atomize
>it into really small droplets that'll be too cold to readily evaporate. 
>That'll reduce the volume taken up by the vaporized fuel and allow more
>air into the engine.
>
>It seems to me that someone sold an ultrasonic fuel atomizer several
>years ago.  Has anyone seen one, or even heard of it?  I don't think I'm
>imagining things...
>
>
>Ray Drouillard
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
>
>


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In a message dated 98-05-04 02:06:57 EDT, danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au
writes:

<< Hmmmmmm..... I think he's onto me.... (just kidding). As I said before...
It
 has EVERYTHING to do with Fuel Injection (or at least that is a part of it.
 But I can't really say more than that).... >>

Sounds like you may be trying to heat the fuel to "atomize" it? I forgot the
exact concept behind this, but I do remember something about smokey yunik
(sp?) working on something that would heat the fuel before it enters the
intake...

Van

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Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 00:24:37 -0600
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Danny Barrett wrote:
> 
> Just had this guess... Sorry... Not what I'm doing... Nice try though.
> 
> Just a thought... isn't it interesting how if you say you have a "secret,"
> that you have to keep to yourself for now, everyone seems to try to guess
> what it is.....
> 
> Danny Barrett.
> 
>What do you expect?  The kind people who regularly post here are not willing to accept "sorry, that information is not available" as an answer.  

My bid is that you're shooting for a modern version of the
"200 mpg carburetor".  I would guess you are trying to find
a way to use the heat of the exhaust to turn the liquid fuel
into a gas immediately before introduction into the engine.  

I would say that you should spend some time in a reference
library to find your refrigerant answers, as you are
planning to use the invention for profit, and anything you
gain from the list would be at someone else's expense. 

Sincerely, 
Shannen

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Raymond C Drouillard wrote:
> 
> On Mon, 4 May 1998 04:09:46 +1000 (EST) danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au
> (Danny Barrett) writes:
> >Sorry, wrong again...
> >got nothing to do with an intercooler, in fact nothing to do with the
> intake
> >air. Also, nothing to do with cooling the heads, although, I could add
> it
> >in, and make the thing work even better.....
> >
> >Danny Barrett.
> 
> Let's see...
> 
> Cool the gasoline so that it won't vaporize readily.  Inject it into the
> manifold at that temperature, but hook up one of those ultrasonic
> transducers that they use in the ultrasonic humidifiers.  That'll atomize
> it into really small droplets that'll be too cold to readily evaporate.
> That'll reduce the volume taken up by the vaporized fuel and allow more
> air into the engine.
> 
> It seems to me that someone sold an ultrasonic fuel atomizer several
> years ago.  Has anyone seen one, or even heard of it?  I don't think I'm
> imagining things...
> 
> Ray Drouillard
> 
> _____________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

I used to get junk mail from a guy in Tennessee (I think)
who was selling these.  Just put them in you pcv line and
experience instant (add desired result here).

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 02:54:25 1998
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The "kick" from the coil will be much worse than the bounce from the points.
You could try an aftermarket optical point replacement  (used to be made by
Allison, but I think they were bought out by holley).  I've used these before
and liked them, (no points to wear).  This would give you a nice signal to tap
into, and the "black-box" part of the conversion would probably isolate your
circuitry from the coil....

GT

Chris Vandrachek wrote:

> Has anybody in EFI land ever heard of a standard pts igntion system being
> used with an EFI system.  I am designing a system based on a Motorola HC12
> and need to know if the noise from points ignition will cause problems.  I
> am working with a time crunch so I don't have time to convert to
> electronic igntion.  What can I do to minimize this kind of noise?
>
> Any kind of advice would be greatly appreciated!
>
> Chris Vondrachek
> chrisv@egr.up.edu




From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 05:28:48 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: Refrigerants
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Of course, I cannot give you details. But you are on the right track. One
thing that I can tell you (others that I know are doing it) - it is possible
to "recycle" some of the otherwise wasted heat in catalytically cracking
fuel (unleaded only - lead "kills" catalysts very quickly), and mixing it
with hydrogen (note: this environment MUST NOT HAVE ANY AIR PRESENT!!! I
know various methods for the production of hydrogen from water, within the
vehicle, and not all of thm require huge amounts of electrical energy) to
form mainly methane and some ethane. Methane having an octane No of about
116. However, as for any other details, I shall not divulge...

Danny Barrett.


>In a message dated 98-05-04 02:06:57 EDT, danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au
>writes:
>
><< Hmmmmmm..... I think he's onto me.... (just kidding). As I said before...
>It
> has EVERYTHING to do with Fuel Injection (or at least that is a part of it.
> But I can't really say more than that).... >>
>
>Sounds like you may be trying to heat the fuel to "atomize" it? I forgot the
>exact concept behind this, but I do remember something about smokey yunik
>(sp?) working on something that would heat the fuel before it enters the
>intake...
>
>Van
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 05:31:39 1998
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No, nothing to do with PCV line...



(deleted)
 
>> It seems to me that someone sold an ultrasonic fuel atomizer several
>> years ago.  Has anyone seen one, or even heard of it?  I don't think I'm
>> imagining things...
>> 
>> Ray Drouillard
>> 
>> _____________________________________________________________________
>> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>> Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
>I used to get junk mail from a guy in Tennessee (I think)
>who was selling these.  Just put them in you pcv line and
>experience instant (add desired result here).
>
>Shannen
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 06:08:50 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: Refrigerants
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If and when I get a system going, I very much doubt that I will ever end up
making a profit from such a device. In fact, if I actually get a patent
(which may or may not happen - I'm keeping my options open by keeping enough
a secret so that a patent may be possible), on request, I would sell fully
worked blueprints at barely above my own cost of producing and distributing
them (These blueprints would, of course, have written permission that the
person who bought it may build one for thier own personal use - I might even
extend it to their whole immediate family. I would have to wait and see.
Everyone can QUOTE me on that, if they would like).
The fact of the matter is that I very much doubt that there exists such a
refrigerant that will cope with the required temperature differences (thus I
am trying to find out if I am correct). If there is not, then I simply go to
design No.2, of which there probably wouldn't very much to patent, and so I
wouldn't even bother applying for one. Also, in this case, I would do the
same as far (as the blueprints are concrened) as my design No.1.
You can rest assured (or perhaps you don't really care) that if I ever made
a profit from such a venture, it probably would never even cover my own
experimental costs. Anyway, I am studying to be a civil engineer, and that
will be my profession - not the automotive industry.
Something you mentioned: I know of Charles Nelson Pogue's "200 MPG carb."
And I know about the chemistry of how it worked, and why its results were
not very reliable (I know more about the chemistry of it than he did at the
time - but this doesn't take much). Asside from this, Pogue stated in an
interview a few years before he died that he had never claimed even 100 MPG
- others people did that, but he did not. All he claimed (so he said) was
that it gave a significant increase in fuel economy. As for today, we no
longer use "white" gasoline, as he did, and its properties are different
(especially when it is considered that gasoline today contains molecular
binders to reduce vaporous emissions during storage). Hence the figures may
differ dramatically from his - whatever they may have *really* been (since
he would not say what he got).
In any case, thankyou for telling me of your concerns.

Danny Barrett.



>Danny Barrett wrote:
>> 
>> Just had this guess... Sorry... Not what I'm doing... Nice try though.
>> 
>> Just a thought... isn't it interesting how if you say you have a "secret,"
>> that you have to keep to yourself for now, everyone seems to try to guess
>> what it is.....
>> 
>> Danny Barrett.
>> 
>>What do you expect?  The kind people who regularly post here are not
willing to accept "sorry, that information is not available" as an answer.  
>
>My bid is that you're shooting for a modern version of the
>"200 mpg carburetor".  I would guess you are trying to find
>a way to use the heat of the exhaust to turn the liquid fuel
>into a gas immediately before introduction into the engine.  
>
>I would say that you should spend some time in a reference
>library to find your refrigerant answers, as you are
>planning to use the invention for profit, and anything you
>gain from the list would be at someone else's expense. 
>
>Sincerely, 
>Shannen
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 06:39:48 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: You ALL want to know, don't you... (previously refrigerants)
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OK... If you have been reading much lately, you would have found out the
basic idea of what this device is. I do not know what people think of the
things (and I'm not particularly worried either). However, it has come to my
attention that at least one person thinks I'm simply in this for money (and
hence, a patent in order to secure the rights to that money). I admit freely
that I DO NOT know how well the device will work (or if indeed it will work,
as it might not).

To show my goodwill to all on this mailing list, if there is so much as ONE
person who would like information on how the devices are supposed to work, I
*WILL* (unquestionably, and without reserve) produce documentation, and send
it in to the DIY_EFI site owners for them to make a Web site out of it
(this, of course will be at their discression), so that everyone can see
these things (including my own extra ideas above things I have found from
other places). However, those who would like such a thing will have to wait,
as I have a lot to do already, and I do not yet have this information in any
written form that I can send at this time. I repeat for those who may not
know, that I am currently a university student, and my studies must come first.

I am fully aware that if I disclose certain information that I would be
disclosing in such documentation, I will be forfeiting my right to a patent,
and by such, the methods, steps and devices which I show become PUBLIC DOMAIN.

As an asside from this, I think that my question (and the secrecy
surrounding it) has contributed constructively to the conversation, as it
has brought out a number of ideas which could be worth while researching,
and developing, and hence increasing the knowledge base of the members on
this mailing list.

Danny Barrett.


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 07:09:46 1998
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I have a 170 kPa prom for the ProJection 4Di if anyone is interested.


> BTW, the Holley Pro-Jection is a MAP system, and can plot up to about 130
> KPa.  That means that it'll handle about a five PSI boost without
> trouble.
> 
> Ray Drouillard.

-- 
Rob
MailTo:gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 08:44:27 1998
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Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 08:44:00 -0400
From: Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
Subject: Re: You ALL want to know, don't you... (previously refrigerants)
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Danny Barrett wrote:
> I am fully aware that if I disclose certain information that I would be
> disclosing in such documentation, I will be forfeiting my right to a patent,
> and by such, the methods, steps and devices which I show become PUBLIC DOMAIN.

Not necessarily. A mailing list is not public domain since it is
subscribed. A website, unless its password restricted is public domain.

Andris

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 09:13:35 1998
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From: "Thor Johnson" <thormj@earthlink.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Refrigerants, Wide range EGO and other thoughts.
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 09:13:30 -0400
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> Refrigerants
>
> Sounds like someone is trying to adapt the ammonia  absorption
cycle
> refrigeration system to use as an intercooler.  What is
interesting is that
> although this cycle is less "efficient" at cooling  than a
compressed gas
> cycle, it gets it's pumping energy from heat - in the  case of
a propane RV
> refrigerator from a small propane flame, or in this  case from
the waste heat
> of the exhaust.  The problem is probably the exhaust
temperatures raise the
> ammonia/water solution past the efficient working  range and
the gentleman is
> looking for another absorption cycle fluid that will work in
this range.

You have any good sources of info on the ammonia cycle?  I'm a
nuts&bolts guy who would like to build one for the heck of it....
(An EE that likes to play with the ME's toys ;).

TIA,
-Thor Johnson
thormj@iname.com


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Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 09:53:28 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Patents
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>Just a thought... isn't it interesting how if you say you have a "secret,"
>that you have to keep to yourself for now, everyone seems to try to guess
>what it is.....

Danny,

Instead of filling the list with "No, guess again", you might consider
searching the IBM database of patents.  Their address is
www.patents.ibm.com ; an excellent resource for anyone considering applying
for a patent.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

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To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: RE: Refrigerants
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>Hmmmmmm..... I think he's onto me.... (just kidding). As I said before... It
>has EVERYTHING to do with Fuel Injection (or at least that is a part of it.
>But I can't really say more than that)....

Don't take this personally Danny, but don't you find it "tacky" at a
minimum, leaching information off a list designed to help people devise a
fuel injection system, then to turn around, not share the technology &
information, and patent it to achieve profit?

Maybe tacky is not the right word.  Sorry, I have to agree with Bob.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

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Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 10:08:05 -0700
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: carbonated mineral water
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>I remember my grandad telling me they used to use carbonated mineral water
when 
>de-coking the engines, apparently this worked much better as plain water
tended 
>to stall the engine.

I would think it would... simply because when I worked in a restaurant,
cleaning a hot buger grill with soda water was more effective than water
alone.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

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Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 10:13:55 -0700
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: You ALL want to know, don't you... (previously
  refrigerants)
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>As an asside from this, I think that my question (and the secrecy
>surrounding it) has contributed constructively to the conversation, as it
>has brought out a number of ideas which could be worth while researching,
>and developing, and hence increasing the knowledge base of the members on
>this mailing list.

Danny,

I might have been harsh on you in a prior message... however I am one of
those people you mentioned with the perception you are here to leach
informaton, run, and get a patent.  While you are entitled to, I thought it
interfered with the overall scope of the list - sharing, working together,
and mutually learning something.

Don't forget ASCII is a tough medium, its difficult for everyone to really
truly percieve what you are thinking, as no one can see your face, hear the
inflextion in your voice, etc.  The reverse is true, you cannot see us.

That aside, I for one would be very interested in your idea, as I'm in the
process of building a twin-turbo V6 Buick and have already started
constructing a refrigerant-based intercooler.  The purpose of this style
intercooler is to achieve a constant (and controllable) intake temperature
to the engine, post turbo, which is cold enough to be readily compressable
in a major way.  More air, means more fuel, means more power.  At least
until the heads blow off.

My test engine, which was a 1986 3.8L FWD engine, certainly not associated
with high performance, I was able to achieve 820HP at 6300 RPM on the dyno
before the rods flew through the side of the engine, using ice water pumped
through an intercooler welded into the intake log, integrated into the
manifold.  My final engine will not be that extreme, but you can see where
I'm going, and why I'm interested.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

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Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 09:56:08 -0700
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Water in the Turbo
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>your exhaust before the turbo might increase its boost. But then again, it
>might not. Anyone know more about turbines who can confirm/deny this???

Introducing water into the headers just before the turbo will increase the
pressure applied to the turbo.  However, there are two drawbacks -

	1. The turbo could overspin
	2. The water (mostly steam) hit the turbo blades, spinning at 100,000 RPM,
and chip off little pieces.

If you ever wiped out water skiing, you know that moving fast across the
water feels much like sliding on concrete.  Turbo blades do not like being
impaled.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

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Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 10:07:03 -0700
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: High MPG
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>Something you mentioned: I know of Charles Nelson Pogue's "200 MPG carb."
>And I know about the chemistry of how it worked, and why its results were
>not very reliable (I know more about the chemistry of it than he did at the
>time - but this doesn't take much). Asside from this, Pogue stated in an

Unfortunately, these kind of devices and technology are basically bandaids
to a much greater problem, one of great inefficiency.  A pushrod engine is
about as ineffecient as an engine can get, however it does have its merits.
 I think once engineers start moving away from a 100 year old design,
things will definately get better mileage wise.  I don't have the URLs
handy, however there are two such engines that have strayed away from
pushrods, but replacing the rotating assembly with a giant Cam.  The cam,
instead of controlling valve timing, is driven by the pistons, which are
configured in a radial fashion.  The one engine that is running (and in the
internet), creates very little horsepower, however the torque it generates
phenominal as compared to its weight, size, and configuration.

I think pushrod engines waste something in the neighborhood of 80% of the
available power in the gasoline.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

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Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 09:49:46 -0700
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Junkyard shopping
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>        Can a 3rd party enter this?  What are 7730 ECM's worth to you?  I
>have a local U-Pull-It yard and I would gladly pull stuff for people.  The
>ECM's are cake to pull, but a harness takes me at least 3 hours to pull
>right.  I am sure there are people faster than me, but that is not the issue.

Thank you for your offer... I'm sure others will take you up on it.

As far as pulling a harness, it is a time consuming process.  I found the
most difficult spot in the connection on the firewall, especially if they
harness connectors were "sealed" with that black goo.  My solution was to
sawzall from the top of the firewall down towards the connector, then to
use a ballpeen hammer to push the cut apart, and the connector comes free.
Not practical in the junkyard I must admit, but the donor vehicle I
stripped was in my garage, making the job a lot easier.

Not that this affect anything :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Refrigerants
In-Reply-To: <19980504.004723.16286.0.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
References: <199805031809.EAA05609@corinna.its.utas.edu.au>
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>It seems to me that someone sold an ultrasonic fuel atomizer several
>years ago.  Has anyone seen one, or even heard of it?  I don't think I'm
>imagining things...

Your not imagining it Ray, when Danny first posted his thoughts without
revealing his "secret" what you suggested popped into my mind also.  I do
believe there are ultrasonic FI systems, but I don't think it ever made it
to the market.  I'm not entirely sure.

May have been due to the fact that ultrasonic washing machines cost $1500
and motor driven "swash bucket" washers cost $250.  Might have been the
same issue - technology to expensive at this point.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

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On Sun, 3 May 1998, Shannen Durphey wrote:
> David wrote:
> > Your prices seem high.
> > The local pick it yourself charges $ 25.00 for the ECU and $ 5.00 to 10.00
> > for the harness depending who is collecting money that day.
> > David
> > 
> > From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
> > |What's reasonable?  Local bone yard sells harnesses for $50,
> > |and ECM for $50.  Can maybe get both for $75, but seems high
> > |to me.  If interested, I'll make some calls.
> > |Shannen


FWIW--I've just gotten 2 ECMs (one local and one mail order), each
for $50.  The local wanted $50 for a u-pull-it harness also. It may be
a bit high, but sometimes ya takes what ya can gets.

-greg
Auburn, AL



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 10:41:01 1998
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From: "David" <david@gardener.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 101 Stuff
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 09:40:36 -0500
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Shannon,

It is self service.

You have to go and see what they have.  It is located about 6 miles east of
downtown St. Louis, MO.

I can provide the exact address and phone number if that helps you.

David

-----Original Message-----
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, May 03, 1998 11:21 PM
Subject: Re: 101 Stuff


|David wrote:
|>
|> Your prices seem high.
|>
|> The local pick it yourself charges $ 25.00 for the ECU and $ 5.00 to
10.00
|> for the harness depending who is collecting money that day.
|>
|> David
|>
|> -----Original Message-----
|> From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
|> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
|> Date: Friday, May 01, 1998 2:07 AM
|> Subject: Re: 101 Stuff
|>
|> |Bruce Plecan wrote:
|> |>
|> |> We here at CSH., HQ., are experiencing a technical problem.
|> |> While slightly off list, the edge is blurring here between personal
|> |> and 101 projects.  Anyway, we need a couple things.  1. a set
|> |> of ecm connectors like used on the 747's (it used two connectors),
|> |> 2. a set off a 730 type ecm (it had three connectors), with like a
|> |> foot (preferably more) of wire on them for doing some bench work.
|> |> 3. Then a entire harness outta like a 90-91 2.8 Celebrity, or any
other
|> |> 1227730 ecm equipped car.  Not looking for freebies, just resonable
|> |> priced ones.
|> |> Nor a worry mate.
|> |> Bruce
|> |
|> |
|> |What's reasonable?  Local bone yard sells harnesses for $50,
|> |and ECM for $50.  Can maybe get both for $75, but seems high
|> |to me.  If interested, I'll make some calls.
|> |
|> |Shannen
|> |
|I'll call you on that.  When you have a harness and ECM from
|86-91 chev pickup (1227747 ecm) let me know.  I'm sure
|there's a deal in there.
|




From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 10:55:22 1998
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From: "Robert Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Ammonia Absorption Refrigeration reference
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 07:55:11 -0700
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Quick Reference - with a lot of pointers to other areas

http://www.nh3tech.org/n3.html

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Thor
> Johnson
> Sent: Monday, May 04, 1998 6:14 AM
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: RE: Refrigerants, Wide range EGO and other thoughts.
>
>
> > Refrigerants
> >
> > Sounds like someone is trying to adapt the ammonia  absorption
> cycle
> > refrigeration system to use as an intercooler.  What is
> interesting is that
> > although this cycle is less "efficient" at cooling  than a
> compressed gas
> > cycle, it gets it's pumping energy from heat - in the  case of
> a propane RV
> > refrigerator from a small propane flame, or in this  case from
> the waste heat
> > of the exhaust.  The problem is probably the exhaust
> temperatures raise the
> > ammonia/water solution past the efficient working  range and
> the gentleman is
> > looking for another absorption cycle fluid that will work in
> this range.
>
> You have any good sources of info on the ammonia cycle?  I'm a
> nuts&bolts guy who would like to build one for the heck of it....
> (An EE that likes to play with the ME's toys ;).
>
> TIA,
> -Thor Johnson
> thormj@iname.com
>



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 11:26:00 1998
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Subject: Re: You ALL want to know, don't you... (previously refrigerants)
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Things might be a bit different in Oz to US... If we disclose the nature of
our inventions to *anyone,* then the patent can not be granted, unless the
person(s) to whom it is disclosed make a written affirmation of secrecy
about the device, and even then, if the patent office feels that they didn't
need to know for some reason, the patent will not be granted... Tough, Heh!!!

Danny Barrett.


>Danny Barrett wrote:
>> I am fully aware that if I disclose certain information that I would be
>> disclosing in such documentation, I will be forfeiting my right to a patent,
>> and by such, the methods, steps and devices which I show become PUBLIC
DOMAIN.
>
>Not necessarily. A mailing list is not public domain since it is
>subscribed. A website, unless its password restricted is public domain.
>
>Andris
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 11:37:15 1998
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Subject: Re: Patents
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This is probably a very good idea. I have not found anything like my idea in
Oz, on the patent record, however, I haven't had the time to look very far.
As for anything in the US - I haven't searched at all. Hoever, I do know
that a man in Canada tried to patent it (in Canada), but it was rejected, as
the patent rules changed part way through his application, and it made his
application void, and his idea was then public domain. I have worked my
device around his, only, I have put in another part to make it more
efficient (hence the refrigerants). If I can't find a suitable refrigerant,
the device is probably not patentable, as I only have a few small things in
it that he didn't have. It might be more worth my while to put copyright on
the parts that are mine, and make sure he has copyright on the parts that
are his (we have conversed back and forth, and he has taught me what he
knows, and I think it is fair to say that I have his permission to use his
idea, and extend it with my own, so I am not in breach of copyright by using
his idea in my device).

Danny Barrett.


>>Just a thought... isn't it interesting how if you say you have a "secret,"
>>that you have to keep to yourself for now, everyone seems to try to guess
>>what it is.....
>
>Danny,
>
>Instead of filling the list with "No, guess again", you might consider
>searching the IBM database of patents.  Their address is
>www.patents.ibm.com ; an excellent resource for anyone considering applying
>for a patent.
>
>
>Frederic Breitwieser
>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>
>Homebrew Automotive Website:
>http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
>
>1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>1989 HMMWV
>2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
>
>-
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 11:40:01 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: Water in the Turbo
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Very good point. So if water is injected, it must be TOTALLY converted into
DRY, SUPERHEATED STEAM before it gets to the turbo...


>>your exhaust before the turbo might increase its boost. But then again, it
>>might not. Anyone know more about turbines who can confirm/deny this???
>
>Introducing water into the headers just before the turbo will increase the
>pressure applied to the turbo.  However, there are two drawbacks -
>
>	1. The turbo could overspin
>	2. The water (mostly steam) hit the turbo blades, spinning at 100,000 RPM,
>and chip off little pieces.
>
>If you ever wiped out water skiing, you know that moving fast across the
>water feels much like sliding on concrete.  Turbo blades do not like being
>impaled.
>
>
>Frederic Breitwieser
>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>
>Homebrew Automotive Website:
>http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
>
>1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>1989 HMMWV
>2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
>
>-
>
>


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Sure it isn't "buRger," not "buger?" Or did you mean a "hot bugger of a
grill?" :-)


(deleted)
>cleaning a hot buger grill with.....
>Frederic Breitwieser
>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>
>Homebrew Automotive Website:
>http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
>
>1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>1989 HMMWV
>2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
>
>-
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 11:52:09 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 08:52:48 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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Hey Maties.

I been keepin this under me hat for a while, but thot I'd spill the
beans and max out the fun, now that I have a Lab Rat working. Member
that thread awhile back about using the post-spark ionization current to
detect detonation and misfires? Well, one of our illustrious members,
whose initials are Jim Crance (golly, I hope he doesn't mind taking a
bow), who's also a fellow pilot, got aholdOme and said he had a slightly
marginal Trionic Ignition/Ionization unit from Saab that worked fine
excpet it hickup'd whenever it was in a deep freeze, and would I like to
have a look? Jim's a Saab (& other Euro's) Mech. So I got the thang last
week before last, along with a nice Saab 9000 manual Jim sent along, and
danged if it don't look feasible to diy.

The assembly's epoxy potted, so limits my snooping to watching it fly
from the outside (just as well), but like I said before, I figure
ANYTHING that's being mass deployed in the commercial auto market has
GOT to be diy'able; otherwise anything twitchy/complicated/sensitive
isn't gonna make it, and Saab's apparently been using this technology
since '93!! Does this remind you at all of EGOR?

So, here's the plan. Just like before, instead of 'cheating' and looking
inside, we'll use the same approach as on EGOR, and try to LEARN how it
works, with yous guys help, like before. Now, since I'm not a member of
SAE, and I see they want a $100/yr subscription JUST to search their
Paper's bibliography, I am soliciting help in locating any/all
articles/info on this system. I can't imagine Saab not touting it
upon/in-prep-for it's introduction in '93, so there have GOT to be some
interesting/useful papers available. Soooo, any of yous guys with a
moment and a membership in SAE, could you start the ball rolling by
doing a search in the SAE Bibliography for any hits on the following
known good keywords:
	Saab  AND Trionic, "Ignition Discharge Module", Ionization, etc.

The manual Jim sent me says "The Saab Trionic system was introduced in
1993 on Saab 9000 models fitted with the B234L engine." The manual
itself if for '96, and assuming they're still using this Trionic stuff
in '98, that means the thang's been deployed for 5 years. That oughta be
enough to convince anyone it works, I would guess. [Saab sells alot of
them Turbo 9000's, don't it? At any rate I sure see alot of them here in
Calif. A fan of the yuppie crowd, ifyaknowadamean.]

Finally, Fair Use allows us the privilege of posting a few of the key
pages from the manual to wet your appetite, so I'll scan a couple in and
post them up on the FTP site. This could give ole EGOR a definitive
challenge to his nascent fameNnotoriety. Now he's gonna have
competition. Sorta like the Red & Yellow MnM bozos. Heh.

Let's get'er rollin, dudes. Cuz this tech sure looks like it beats the
acoustic knock detection schemes by a Swedish mile! And, unless we get a
total firehose of activity on this and begin to overload the list, how
bout you POST your finds instead of sending them to me privately. Might
encourage the beehive effect, and bring everyone interested up to speed
that much faster. [BTW, didy'all know that this gizmo is even used to
"commute" the spark/injection, by replacing the cam sensor? Yeah, it
detects which "other" pair of plugs is firing via ionization current,
and combined with the crank sensor for the "intersecting pair",
determines which cylinder is at TDC on it's power stroke. Cool, eh?]

Cheers maties; if we pull THIS one off, we'll have to think seriously
about holding some kinda party or sumpin, eh? Could be fun.

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 12:01:10 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Misc 101 Information
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 12:01:33 -0400
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In case you were ever curious, how often the ecm "looks" at
things.

The ECM never stops polling the sensors.  Under certain conditions, it might
ignore a measured value though.  Here's how often the XYZ
ecm samples the inputs:

MAP is sampled 160 times a second.

O2 is sampled 160 times a second.

VSS (MPH) is sampled every VSS pulse (up to 80 times a second.)

RPM is computed 80 times a second (in the spark code.)

TPS is sampled 80 times a second.

Battery voltage is sampled 10 times a second.

CTS is sampled 10 times a second.

ALDL is sampled 10 times a second.

MAT is sampled 10 times a second.

MPH is computed 10 times a second.

Fuel and spark are computed 80 times a second - on alternate 160 Hz beats

Most of these sampled items are filtered, so the value used for
further computations won't change as fast as the sample rate

Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 12:08:40 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: You ALL want to know, don't you... (previously  refrigerants)
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G'Day there, I'll put my comments between yours to make it easy to see what
I'm addressing...

>I might have been harsh on you in a prior message... however I am one of
>those people you mentioned with the perception you are here to leach
>informaton, run, and get a patent.  While you are entitled to, I thought it
>interfered with the overall scope of the list - sharing, working together,
>and mutually learning something.

No problems.

>Don't forget ASCII is a tough medium, its difficult for everyone to really
>truly percieve what you are thinking, as no one can see your face, hear the
>inflextion in your voice, etc.  The reverse is true, you cannot see us.

I understand this too. So I thought that it might be a good idea for me to
make my intentions clear, for that exact reason.

>That aside, I for one would be very interested in your idea, as I'm in the
>process of building a twin-turbo V6 Buick and have already started
>constructing a refrigerant-based intercooler.  The purpose of this style
>intercooler is to achieve a constant (and controllable) intake temperature
>to the engine, post turbo, which is cold enough to be readily compressable
>in a major way.  More air, means more fuel, means more power.  At least
>until the heads blow off.

Well, my idea isn't really an intercooler, it's basically a fuel
"conditioning" system. However, this aside, if heat energy can be taken from
the intercooler (which is going to be run anyway), and used in the fuel
conditioning system, then why not do it, instead of wasting that good energy
by transfering it to the ambient air... I happen to think that my system
would work well with a supercharger (given a few design mod's to my fuel
system), but I don't know how well with a turbo, as the exhaust heat should
drop significantly, due to otherwise wasted heat being "recycled." However,
this aside, by catalytically cracking the fuel (in the presence of hyrogen)
to get methane, you then have an octane rating of about 116 to 120.
Obviously, this would be better for forced aspirated engines than normal
fuel. What's more, methane burns with a lower temperature than normal fuel,
and with a higher speed/pressure (or this is what I am told - there are
reasons why this was deduced, but I'll have to do a bit of revision on the
subject). This would mean that less intercooling would be necessarry.

>My test engine, which was a 1986 3.8L FWD engine, certainly not associated
>with high performance, I was able to achieve 820HP at 6300 RPM on the dyno
>before the rods flew through the side of the engine, using ice water pumped
>through an intercooler welded into the intake log, integrated into the
>manifold.  My final engine will not be that extreme, but you can see where
>I'm going, and why I'm interested.

WOW! That's not bad at all! I've heard of a 3.1L turbo straight 6 (with a
bit of nitrous) getting 670HP, but a 3.8 (is this the V6 Buick - the one
that's found in Oz in the Holden Commodore?) getting 820HP (I assume with no
nitrous) is nearly past my comprehension, since my 2.8L inline 6 only has
100HP... With my fuel system (with or without the refrigerant) I hope to get
a bit more than the measly 100HP, and a bit better fuel economy too...

>Frederic Breitwieser
>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>
>Homebrew Automotive Website:
>http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
>
>1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>1989 HMMWV
>2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
>
>-
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 12:24:27 1998
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Subject: Re: High MPG
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Yes, I agree. In fact, I think that if as much time, effort, and money was
put into the development of a turbine engine (like the Chrysler one) as has
been put into the engines we currently run, the "200 MPG carb" type idea
would be a case of "so what!" In the case of the Chrysler turbine, it had a
very ingeneous heat transfer drvice that recycled otherwise wasted heat from
the exhaust to the intake, thereby making the engine more efficient (this is
a bit more difficult with the IC engine to say the least - basically, it has
to be stored as chemical potential energy within the fuel, and this can only
be done by chemically altering the fuel with an endothermic reaction). The
problem that I can see with the heat exchanger is that it didn't exchange
enough of the exhaust heat. Obviously, if it exchanged more, with a greater
efficiency, the engine would be more efficient - it's basic thermodynamics,
and it's even given a name - "Regenerative cycle" ie. recycle waste heat
energy to raise the efficiency of the engine. And guess what... It's easiest
to do with some sort of turbine. Perhaps someone should revisit the old
Chrisler engine and make the heat exchanger more efficient???

Danny Barrett.


>>Something you mentioned: I know of Charles Nelson Pogue's "200 MPG carb."
>>And I know about the chemistry of how it worked, and why its results were
>>not very reliable (I know more about the chemistry of it than he did at the
>>time - but this doesn't take much). Asside from this, Pogue stated in an
>
>Unfortunately, these kind of devices and technology are basically bandaids
>to a much greater problem, one of great inefficiency.  A pushrod engine is
>about as ineffecient as an engine can get, however it does have its merits.
> I think once engineers start moving away from a 100 year old design,
>things will definately get better mileage wise.  I don't have the URLs
>handy, however there are two such engines that have strayed away from
>pushrods, but replacing the rotating assembly with a giant Cam.  The cam,
>instead of controlling valve timing, is driven by the pistons, which are
>configured in a radial fashion.  The one engine that is running (and in the
>internet), creates very little horsepower, however the torque it generates
>phenominal as compared to its weight, size, and configuration.
>
>I think pushrod engines waste something in the neighborhood of 80% of the
>available power in the gasoline.
>
>
>Frederic Breitwieser
>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>
>Homebrew Automotive Website:
>http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
>
>1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>1989 HMMWV
>2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
>
>-
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 12:36:37 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 09:37:17 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Mon, 04 May 1998 08:52:48 -0700, garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:

>This could give ole EGOR a definitive
>challenge to his nascent fameNnotoriety. Now he's gonna have
>competition. Sorta like the Red & Yellow MnM bozos. Heh.

Just had a thot.

To nip the name-groping in the bud, let's start out calling this
plasma-baby "ION". So it's currently EGOR and ION for nicknames. That
way we can talk about this puppy without repeatedly typing "the
Post-Ignition Ionization Current Detection Device/Circuit". EH?

So let her be called ION. (Don't the mere mention of her name just make
you tingly all over? B)

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 12:50:02 1998
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From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Holley 4D experiences
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 10:45:55 -0700
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Hello all:

Well, got my boat on the water for the first time with TBI and GT40P heads. 
 What a difference!  Instant starts cold and hot, terrific throttle 
response, much better acceleration and 3 mph increase in top speed (that's 
a lot for a boat.)

Just a couple of minor problems to work through.  One involves a too-high 
idle speed when operating closed-loop.  Should be easily solveable.

The second problem goes like this:  Running at full throttle produces 4000 
rpms.  Backing down to 3800 rpms briefly, and then applying full throttle 
brings up 4150-4200 rpms, which then decays over three-four seconds back to 
4000 rpms.  The high speed jet control is nearly maxed out.  I'm going to 
try increased fuel pressure next.

Mounting the O2 sensor in the crossover passage seems to basically work 
fine.  Acceleration, top speed and part-throttle cruise were all unchanged 
or improved from open-loop (although that placement may be contributing to 
the high closed-loop idle speed.  Something I have to look at yet.)

Hopefully I'll have an opportunity to take it out again this week with a 
friend who's not so antsy to get home!

Mike J.


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 13:05:36 1998
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Subject: Re: High MPG
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-----Original Message-----
From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, May 04, 1998 12:55 PM
Subject: Re: High MPG


>Yes, I agree. In fact, I think that if as much time, effort, and money was
put into the development of a turbine engine (like the Chrysler one) as has
been put into the engines we currently run, the "200 MPG carb" type idea
would be a case of "so what!" In the case of the Chrysler turbine, it had a
very ingeneous heat transfer drvice that recycled otherwise wasted heat from
the exhaust to the intake, thereby making the engine more efficient (this is
a bit more difficult with the IC engine to say the least - basically, it has
to be stored as chemical potential energy within the fuel, and this can only
>be done by chemically altering the fuel with an endothermic reaction). The
problem that I can see with the heat exchanger is that it didn't exchange
enough of the exhaust heat. Obviously, if it exchanged more, with a greater
efficiency, the engine would be more efficient - it's basic thermodynamics,
and it's even given a name - "Regenerative cycle" ie. recycle waste heat
>energy to raise the efficiency of the engine. And guess what... It's
easiest
>to do with some sort of turbine. Perhaps someone should revisit the old
>Chrisler engine and make the heat exchanger more efficient???
>
>Danny Barrett.
>
>
The most impressive moment I had around the Chy Turbine car
was standing behind it, and the ambient temp rising from 60-70F
to well over 100, very quickly.  Maybe an over impression of youth
but it made ya walk away in a hurrry.

Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 13:06:12 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
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Sounds good to me... Do you think you would be able to adapt it for old 6
cyl engines???

>Hey Maties.
>
>I been keepin this under me hat for a while, but thot I'd spill the
>beans and max out the fun, now that I have a Lab Rat working. Member
>that thread awhile back about using the post-spark ionization current to
>detect detonation and misfires? Well, one of our illustrious members,
>whose initials are Jim Crance (golly, I hope he doesn't mind taking a
>bow), who's also a fellow pilot, got aholdOme and said he had a slightly
>marginal Trionic Ignition/Ionization unit from Saab that worked fine
>excpet it hickup'd whenever it was in a deep freeze, and would I like to
>have a look? Jim's a Saab (& other Euro's) Mech. So I got the thang last
>week before last, along with a nice Saab 9000 manual Jim sent along, and
>danged if it don't look feasible to diy.
>
>The assembly's epoxy potted, so limits my snooping to watching it fly
>from the outside (just as well), but like I said before, I figure
>ANYTHING that's being mass deployed in the commercial auto market has
>GOT to be diy'able; otherwise anything twitchy/complicated/sensitive
>isn't gonna make it, and Saab's apparently been using this technology
>since '93!! Does this remind you at all of EGOR?
>
>So, here's the plan. Just like before, instead of 'cheating' and looking
>inside, we'll use the same approach as on EGOR, and try to LEARN how it
>works, with yous guys help, like before. Now, since I'm not a member of
>SAE, and I see they want a $100/yr subscription JUST to search their
>Paper's bibliography, I am soliciting help in locating any/all
>articles/info on this system. I can't imagine Saab not touting it
>upon/in-prep-for it's introduction in '93, so there have GOT to be some
>interesting/useful papers available. Soooo, any of yous guys with a
>moment and a membership in SAE, could you start the ball rolling by
>doing a search in the SAE Bibliography for any hits on the following
>known good keywords:
>	Saab  AND Trionic, "Ignition Discharge Module", Ionization, etc.
>
>The manual Jim sent me says "The Saab Trionic system was introduced in
>1993 on Saab 9000 models fitted with the B234L engine." The manual
>itself if for '96, and assuming they're still using this Trionic stuff
>in '98, that means the thang's been deployed for 5 years. That oughta be
>enough to convince anyone it works, I would guess. [Saab sells alot of
>them Turbo 9000's, don't it? At any rate I sure see alot of them here in
>Calif. A fan of the yuppie crowd, ifyaknowadamean.]
>
>Finally, Fair Use allows us the privilege of posting a few of the key
>pages from the manual to wet your appetite, so I'll scan a couple in and
>post them up on the FTP site. This could give ole EGOR a definitive
>challenge to his nascent fameNnotoriety. Now he's gonna have
>competition. Sorta like the Red & Yellow MnM bozos. Heh.
>
>Let's get'er rollin, dudes. Cuz this tech sure looks like it beats the
>acoustic knock detection schemes by a Swedish mile! And, unless we get a
>total firehose of activity on this and begin to overload the list, how
>bout you POST your finds instead of sending them to me privately. Might
>encourage the beehive effect, and bring everyone interested up to speed
>that much faster. [BTW, didy'all know that this gizmo is even used to
>"commute" the spark/injection, by replacing the cam sensor? Yeah, it
>detects which "other" pair of plugs is firing via ionization current,
>and combined with the crank sensor for the "intersecting pair",
>determines which cylinder is at TDC on it's power stroke. Cool, eh?]
>
>Cheers maties; if we pull THIS one off, we'll have to think seriously
>about holding some kinda party or sumpin, eh? Could be fun.
>
>Gar
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 13:08:46 1998
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Subject: Re: Misc 101 Information
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I have been following the posts with interest, but the one thing I have not seen
is what processor is run in the thing?

Joe




nacelp@bright.net on 05/04/98 12:01:33 PM

Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

To:   diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc:    (bcc: Joe Dzura/SED/CSC)
Subject:  Misc 101 Information




In case you were ever curious, how often the ecm "looks" at
things.
The ECM never stops polling the sensors.  Under certain conditions, it might
ignore a measured value though.  Here's how often the XYZ
ecm samples the inputs:
MAP is sampled 160 times a second.
O2 is sampled 160 times a second.
VSS (MPH) is sampled every VSS pulse (up to 80 times a second.)
RPM is computed 80 times a second (in the spark code.)
TPS is sampled 80 times a second.
Battery voltage is sampled 10 times a second.
CTS is sampled 10 times a second.
ALDL is sampled 10 times a second.
MAT is sampled 10 times a second.
MPH is computed 10 times a second.
Fuel and spark are computed 80 times a second - on alternate 160 Hz beats
Most of these sampled items are filtered, so the value used for
further computations won't change as fast as the sample rate
Cheers
Bruce








From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 13:12:32 1998
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From: Don Berry <donbe@microsoft.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 10:11:59 -0700 
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		Has anyone considered use a DSP (digital signal processor)
for acoustic knock detection? I understand that they can actually operate
with a negative signal to noise ratio.

		Don

		...and no, my Chevy does NOT run Windows!  ;^)



		-----Original Message-----

		snip


		Cuz this tech sure looks like it beats the acoustic knock
detection schemes by a Swedish mile!

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 13:18:26 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Programming 101
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 13:18:48 -0400
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Again, please read all past postings in reference to Programming
101.  (as written this current ecm is the gm 1227747).
Again this is for educational purposes. Performing table modifications as
mentioned herein may violate local/state/federal laws if done to a vehicle.
Any ecm table/code modifications can
do damage to an engine.  Do not attempt these modifications
unless under adult supervision.  I have no formal electronics training
and this information seems to be true to me.  If you find fault with
any of this please e-mail me, (my address is nacelp@bright.net) so I might
be able to research, and correct any errors that I make.  When quoting this
article, please edit your reply (of this material).

  Today's two tables are both coolant temp dependent ones.
One being for cranking fuel, which is at 044A-0458, and idle fuel
vs temp at 05F5-0605.
  Now that they have been posted in the 332 incoming area for
about a week I'd think everyone has gotten a copy of GMER,
and delco edit.  If you haven't then this is the time to.  Looking
at gmer will give you a sense of exactly what tables look like,
and how they vary, and getting delco edit will let ya see what
they look like in prom form, ie hex editor.  As I mentioned before
some of the tables are preceeded by offsets so just before a
large table you might see a group of entries like   00  40  0F.
That would correspond to a 0 rpm offset, an 40 MAP related
offset, and a table with a column width of 15 entries.  So now,
you can look at a dissassemblied prom file like at ludis's site,
and compare that to what tables look like in an editor, and
use delco edit.  There now you have all the basics for looking
at tables, finding tables, and editing tables.  If you search the
archives for Tables, Maps, tuneup, you then have the info for
how to monitor changes ya make, and what approximate values to
change how much.   Granted we still need to discuss some more math, but at
least now, everyone can get up to speed on where
to at least start to look for a table.  What tables look like in a
proper editor, and how to take a raw hex file, and manipulate
it into an orangized file,  and included in delco edit is a hex to
dec conversion, and also a factor conversion so if you want to
make the *90/255, you would just hit F and then .352 and all of
the file or your table would be expressed in degrees.
  If anyone has any tables, locations or anything they would like to
share in ref to any gm ecm, I'd invite them to post it to the list,
or write me, with that information.
  Again I would like to thank those who have contributed to making
this possible, and again say that I did not discover any of this
but rather am reporting it, as I understand things.
  If you are having trouble understanding any or all of this your
probably not alone, so write me, and I'll try to better explain these
matters.
  HTH
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 13:41:23 1998
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From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: High MPG
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 11:37:13 -0700
Encoding: 33 TEXT, 57 UUENCODE
X-MS-Attachment: WINMAIL.DAT 0 00-00-1980 00:00
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Solar Turbines, which is a unit of Caterpillar, has just launched a 4000 - 
5000 kW machine that uses recuperation (or regenertaion, take your pick) to 
pick up some 10% in efficiency.  Now 40% simple-cycle vs. 30% previously. 
 Recuperation is not new certainly, but Solar may be the first to re 
arrange components to more logically package the recuperator (the inlet and 
exhaust are located at the center of the engine.)

Mike J.

>>Danny Barrett wrote:

Yes, I agree. In fact, I think that if as much time, effort, and money was
put into the development of a turbine engine (like the Chrysler one) as has
been put into the engines we currently run, the "200 MPG carb" type idea
would be a case of "so what!" In the case of the Chrysler turbine, it had a
very ingeneous heat transfer drvice that recycled otherwise wasted heat 
from the exhaust to the intake, thereby making the engine more efficient 
(this is a bit more difficult with the IC engine to say the least - 
basically, it has to be stored as chemical potential energy within the 
fuel, and this can only
be done by chemically altering the fuel with an endothermic reaction). The
problem that I can see with the heat exchanger is that it didn't exchange
enough of the exhaust heat. Obviously, if it exchanged more, with a greater
efficiency, the engine would be more efficient - it's basic thermodynamics,
and it's even given a name - "Regenerative cycle" ie. recycle waste heat
energy to raise the efficiency of the engine. And guess what... It's 
easiest
to do with some sort of turbine. Perhaps someone should revisit the old
Chrisler engine and make the heat exchanger more efficient???

Danny Barrett.>>



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M'] Q!%AE9=__9N]@3280+?$@(#"1(,$$(/T@D6TQ`B60/7$", <Q-F%]!)!G
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M$1 #````0 `',.!U.)R*=[T!0 `(,.!U.)R*=[T!'@`]``$````%````4D4Z
/( `````#``TT_3<``/$F
`
end


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 13:44:07 1998
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cyberdrive.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: High MPG
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 13:40:11 -0400
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The efficiency, in terms of fuel used for power generated, of an internal
combustion engine has to do with expansion ratio, combustion temperature and
pumping loss.  2 valve, 4 valve, pushrod, OHC, etc have little or no effect
on efficiency.  High winding multi valve engines get more power per
displacement but not necessarily more power per weight or cost.  Maybe you
con't like pushrods, or they are aesthetically displeasing to you but they
are certainly not less efficient.

A gasoline engine wastes only 60% of the energy in gasoline when operated at
full throttle.  It wastes 80% at part throttle where it operates like a big
vacuum pump with a leak and it wastes 100% at idle.  Multi-valve and
overhead cams don't change these numbers.

Gas turbines, steam, rotary, etc generally do worse.  The road to
improvement is paved with reduced heat loss from exhaust and cooling.
Ceramic parts which operate without cooling and greater expansion ratios can
reduce this energy wastage.  None of which has anything to do with pushrods.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

<snip>

>I think pushrod engines waste something in the neighborhood of 80% of the
>available power in the gasoline.
>
>Frederic Breitwieser



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 13:51:40 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Holley 4D experiences
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 13:52:01 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: 'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, May 04, 1998 1:35 PM
Subject: Holley 4D experiences

>Well, got my boat on the water for the first time with TBI and GT40P heads.
What a difference!  Instant starts cold and hot, terrific throttle
>response, much better acceleration and 3 mph increase in top speed (that's
a lot for a boat.)
>Just a couple of minor problems to work through.  One involves a too-high
idle speed when operating closed-loop.  Should be easily solveable.
>The second problem goes like this:  Running at full throttle produces 4000
rpms.  Backing down to 3800 rpms briefly, and then applying full throttle
brings up 4150-4200 rpms, which then decays over three-four seconds back to
4000 rpms.  The high speed jet control is nearly maxed out.  I'm going to
try increased fuel pressure next.
>
>Mounting the O2 sensor in the crossover passage seems to basically work
fine.  Acceleration, top speed and part-throttle cruise were all unchanged
or improved from open-loop (although that placement may be contributing to
the high closed-loop idle speed.  Something I have to look at yet.)
>
>Mike J.
>
Use anything ya got til the Wide Ratio O2 sensor is done, but like
a DVM, and see what ya got for WOT O2 voltage.  Doin plug cuts
onna boat never worked for me, since the prop always made the
motor spin down too slowly.  Ya might just use a dwell meter (like
for setting points [ya remember them, right?]), and hook that on the
ecm side of the injectors and make sure the ecm isn't reducing
the injector on time (the dwell would decrease if it is)..
  Did that sytyem have a MAP?.
      One other thought hook a vacuum guage to the manifold and see if after
a few minutes that it isn't generating a vac, at WOT, and
that isn't the problem.  Like the restrictor plate engines at continious
WOT.  TB, might be too small for continued WOT.
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 13:56:00 1998
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Danny Barrett wrote:
> 
> Does anyone out there know anything about refrigerants? I need to know if
> there are any refrigerants (or series thereof) that will work between about
> 20 deg C, and about 500 to 600 deg C. This might not sound like EFI to me,
> but I am working on an invention that has everything to do with EFI, and the
> use of such refrigerants would make this device much better. Sorry, I can't
> disclose what the invention is at the moment, as I might want to take out a
> patent in the future (NOTE: This invention has nothing to do with water
> injection, of which I am currently discussing with various prople). Thanks.
> 
> Danny Barrett.

Wow, 1000 messges on diy-efi about refrigerants...

Anyway, I haven't seen an answer yet, so here's one place to look:

www.autofrost.com/ptchart2.pdf

It's a ->large<- PDF pressure/temp chart that lists what appears to be
every refrigerant ever.  there are also Word and Excel versions.

--steve

--
Steve Ravet
International Meta Systems
http://www.imes.com
steve@imes.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 13:57:51 1998
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From: justin w ivan und stnt <jwi0939@megahertz.njit.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu, frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com
Subject: Re: Junkyard shopping
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I was wondering if you guys came across any volkswagens in your junk yard
shopping. I am contemplating doing some engine swaps but am having a hard
time finding donor cars. I am located in NJ but willing to travel the
coast and Penn for the right place. I'd appreciate it if you guys could
let me know the scope of vw's you see at the yards.
		Thanks
		  Justin Ivan



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 13:57:53 1998
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From: justin w ivan und stnt <jwi0939@megahertz.njit.edu>
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I was wondering if you guys came across any volkswagens in your junk yard
shopping. I am contemplating doing some engine swaps but am having a hard
time finding donor cars. I am located in NJ but willing to travel the
coast and Penn for the right place. I'd appreciate it if you guys could
let me know the scope of vw's you see at the yards.
		Thanks
		  Justin Ivan



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 14:10:18 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Misc 101 Information
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 14:10:39 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: jdzura@csc.com <jdzura@csc.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, May 04, 1998 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: Misc 101 Information


>I have been following the posts with interest, but the one thing I have not
seen
>is what processor is run in the thing?
>
>Joe
>
The 1227747 is in the C-3 generation of gm ecm's which all use,
a Motorola 6809 type of device, and the newer P-4's use a 68HC11
type.  The "type" is that, it is to gm specs, and there are small
differences from a ecm processor to a off the self device, as I
understand things.
Bruce   With todays current fashion statements ya almost have to
             have reversable Cone Shaped Hats..


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 14:14:36 1998
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To: diy_efi@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: WATER INJECTION
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Danny Barrett wrote:
> 
> Well Gents, it seems we have a difinative answer. Thankyou Zack. So, now
> that it has been shown that the steam WILL stay vaporised (which was the
> opposite of my prediction), can anyone come up with anything that will show
> whether the steam's maximum partial pressure will be before or after TDC?
> Also, what if we were to inject the water at say 90 deg C (194 deg F). It
> has not yet boiled, but it has gone nearly all the way to boiling, so the
> energy completely lost due to latent heat of evaporation will be lowered as
> much as possible? This way, we will not be injecting an "inert gas" but a
> liquid that is just about ready to flash to a vapor. Please bear in mind
> that the water would be heated by the exhaust manifold.

Danny, the thing is that most of the energy is absorbed when the water
turns to steam.  The phase changes (ice to water, water to steam) are
what absorb the energy, not raising the temp of the water in the same
phase.  If you can find a thermo book, it has graphs that make it all
very clear.  Bottom line is, it doesn't matter how close you are to
boiling.

--steve


--
Steve Ravet
International Meta Systems
http://www.imes.com
steve@imes.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 14:24:14 1998
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From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: RE: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
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Check the TI web site, they have a sample paper and design with one.

Sandy

At 10:11 AM 5/4/98 -0700, you wrote:
> Has anyone considered use a DSP (digital signal processor)
>for acoustic knock detection? I understand that they can actually operate
>with a negative signal to noise ratio.
>
> Don
>
> ...and no, my Chevy does NOT run Windows!  ;^)
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> snip
>
>
> Cuz this tech sure looks like it beats the acoustic knock
>detection schemes by a Swedish mile!
>  

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 14:35:46 1998
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Thor Johnson wrote:
> 
> > Refrigerants
> >
> > Sounds like someone is trying to adapt the ammonia  absorption
> cycle
> > refrigeration system to use as an intercooler.  What is
> interesting is that
> > although this cycle is less "efficient" at cooling  than a
> compressed gas
> > cycle, it gets it's pumping energy from heat - in the  case of
> a propane RV
> > refrigerator from a small propane flame, or in this  case from
> the waste heat
> > of the exhaust.  The problem is probably the exhaust
> temperatures raise the
> > ammonia/water solution past the efficient working  range and
> the gentleman is
> > looking for another absorption cycle fluid that will work in
> this range.
> 
> You have any good sources of info on the ammonia cycle?  I'm a
> nuts&bolts guy who would like to build one for the heck of it....
> (An EE that likes to play with the ME's toys ;).

Get on Deja News, and do a search on ammonia refrigerators.  You'll come
up with a lot of posts in rec.boating of all places, including one that
explains ammonia fridges in detail.  The author's name is Rod McInnis. 
A mixture of water and ammonia is heated in a column.  Because of
different boiling points, one end of the column is mostly ammonia, the
other end is mostly water.  The two are separated, and pumped into the
fridge.  When water and ammonia mix, the temperature of the mix goes way
down.  It's a physical process, not a chemical one, that I cannot
remember the name of right now.  The mixture never changes pressure, so
there is no compresor.  The only energy input is a flame or electric
heat to boil the mixture.  In an RV, there isn't even a pump, the system
is cleverly designed so that the gravity causes the mixture to 
circulate.  That won't work in a car with lateral G forces, but there's
no reason why you couldn't add a small pump to circulate the mixture. 
It's been mentioned before here, it seems like it would be a good way to
use exhaust heat to cool the incoming mixture.  The only thing is that
the ammonia mixture is very stong (poisonous), much stronger than
cleaning products.

--steve

> 
> TIA,
> -Thor Johnson
> thormj@iname.com

--
Steve Ravet
International Meta Systems
http://www.imes.com
steve@imes.com

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 14:47:10 1998
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From: "BUTLER, Tom" <TEBUTLER@mccain.ca>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Refrigerants
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 15:48:03 -0300 
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Wouldn't be a super-duper intercooler would it?

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au
> [SMTP:danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au]
> Sent:	Sunday, May 03, 1998 7:17 AM
> To:	DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Refrigerants
> 
> Does anyone out there know anything about refrigerants? I need to know
> if
> there are any refrigerants (or series thereof) that will work between
> about
> 20 deg C, and about 500 to 600 deg C. This might not sound like EFI to
> me,
> but I am working on an invention that has everything to do with EFI,
> and the
> use of such refrigerants would make this device much better. Sorry, I
> can't
> disclose what the invention is at the moment, as I might want to take
> out a
> patent in the future (NOTE: This invention has nothing to do with
> water
> injection, of which I am currently discussing with various prople).
> Thanks.
> 
> Danny Barrett.

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 14:59:03 1998
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From: "Scott Mo." <scottmo@teleport.com>
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References: <356fda6b.50857750@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
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garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:
<snip>
> So, here's the plan. Just like before, instead of 'cheating' and >looking inside, we'll use the same approach as on EGOR, and try to >LEARN how it works, with yous guys help, like before. Now, since I'm >not a member of SAE, and I see they want a $100/yr subscription JUST to >search their Paper's bibliography, 

Just a quick comment, IMHO $100 a year to get the SAE Automotive
Engineering magazine and to be able to search the technical paper
listing archives on line is CHEAP! compared to the time you will spend
trying to figure out this stuff on your own. Best $100 you will ever
spend.....

>I am soliciting help in locating any/all
> articles/info on this system. I can't imagine Saab not touting it
> upon/in-prep-for it's introduction in '93, so there have GOT to be some
> interesting/useful papers available. Soooo, any of yous guys with a
> moment and a membership in SAE, could you start the ball rolling by
> doing a search in the SAE Bibliography for any hits on the following
> known good keywords:

Here are some SAE Technical papers that came up during a quick search on
SAAB, these technical papers can often be found on microfiche in most
university libraries or you can order them directly from SAE at
412-776-4970 or go to their web site

http://www.sae.org/PRODSERV/papers/paprinfo/pap_indx.htm


  Document Number:970854
  Title:
  Closed loop ignition control by ionization current interpretation
  Publication Date:Feb 1997
  Author(s):Eriksson, Lars; Nielsen, Lars; Glavenius, Mikael
  Book containing this paper(s):SP-1236
  Index Terms:Ignition controllers; Ions; Pressure measurement; Real
time control; Spark timing


  Document Number:960045
  Title:Ignition control by ionization current interpretation
  Publication Date: Feb 1996
  Author(s):Eriksson, Lars; Nielsen, Lars; Nytomt, Jan
  Book containing this paper(s):SP-1149
  Index Terms:Ignition; Ignition controllers; Spark ignition engines;
Ignition timing; Cylinder pressure;Performance


Here is another that may have some info.
  Document Number:890044
  Title:Saab direct ignition system and its cold start performance
  Publication Date:1989
 
There are a lot of other articles on ionization measurements that I can
list at a later date, just don't have the time to do it now.

HTH
-- 
Scott Mo.
1989 200TQ
1988 5000TQ
1966 VW Beetle
http://www.teleport.com/~scottmo

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 15:16:07 1998
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From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: High MPG
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>Ceramic parts which operate without cooling and greater expansion ratios can
>reduce this energy wastage.  None of which has anything to do with pushrods.

Hello Gary,

I didn't mean to imply that the pushrods are the culprit, I was merely
commenting that the 100 year old design has outlived its practicality, and
that new engineering should take place.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

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Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 14:54:34 -0700
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: carbonated mineral water
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>Sure it isn't "buRger," not "buger?" Or did you mean a "hot bugger of a
>grill?" :-)

I type fast, and sometimes mistype.  Burger, as in "Friendly's".


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

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Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 14:58:48 -0700
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Water in the Turbo
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>Very good point. So if water is injected, it must be TOTALLY converted into
>DRY, SUPERHEATED STEAM before it gets to the turbo...

Yes.  Water droplets hitting the blades at 100000 RPM is much like pouring
sand into the turbo.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 15:23:20 1998
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From: Jim Velasquez <jim_velasquez@partech.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Cc: pft101@psu.edu
Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V3 #190
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 13:25:16 -0600
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OK, I'll throw in my 2cents worth:

I'm looking to set up a DIY_EFI on my big block Pontiac, and would be
willing to have someone pull a complete harness and ECM for me.  I'm
just starting this project, so I might even set up the system 'on the
bench' ala the 101 stuff  happening elsewhere on the list...

First off, where are you located?  It wouldn't be worth it  if shipping
parts was excessively expensive.  Isn't PSU penn state?

Also, to the list:  What would everyone suggest as the best GM ECM for
setting up a port-injected poncho?  I thought that a first guess would
be one from a GM 454 (should be close to correct values in ECM), or a
2nd choice would be from a port-injected V8.

Paul, if you'd be willing to do the removal, I'd pay a reasonable
markup- enough to at least make it 'worth your while'.   If your local
yards have reasonable enough prices, I may even be interested in other
pieces like a complete intake for the above mentioned injected 454 (and,
though I hate to admit it, I might even be willing to do a TBI as a
first project...).

Also, I'm looking for people who might be scrounging for other parts I
might be interested in for my setup... Thinks like TH200-4Rs (a 4-speed
RWD auto trans with old-style BOP mounting... perfect for updating a '72
firebird...).  Or, if they come across '70-'72 firebirds perhaps other
parts as well...

I'm sure that I'm asking way too much of a volunteer; but, as I said:
I'd be willing to pay some **reasonable** level of markup.

Regards... 
Jim Velasquez

>From: Paul Tholey <pft101@psu.edu>
>Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 01:02:51 -0400
>Subject: Junkyard shopping
>
>Shannen,
>
>        Can a 3rd party enter this?  What are 7730 ECM's worth to you?
I
>have a local U-Pull-It yard and I would gladly pull stuff for people.
The
>ECM's are cake to pull, but a harness takes me at least 3 hours to pull
>right.  I am sure there are people faster than me, but that is not the
issue.
>        This goes out to the rest of the list too.  School is ending,
only
>for 1 month, finally will be graduating after summer classes :^)  So if
I
>can spend my days in the yard pulling stuff for people, and keeping an
eye
>on all of the "fresh kills", this really would be a great summer
vacation!
>
>Paul Tholey
>
>At 09:47 PM 5/3/98 -0600, you wrote:
>>David wrote:
>>> 
>>> Your prices seem high.
>>> 
>>> The local pick it yourself charges $ 25.00 for the ECU and $ 5.00 to
10.00
>>> for the harness depending who is collecting money that day.
>>> 
>>> David
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
>>> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>>> Date: Friday, May 01, 1998 2:07 AM
>>> Subject: Re: 101 Stuff
>>> 
>>> |Bruce Plecan wrote:
>>> |>
>>> |> We here at CSH., HQ., are experiencing a technical problem.
>>> |> While slightly off list, the edge is blurring here between
personal
>>> |> and 101 projects.  Anyway, we need a couple things.  1. a set
>>> |> of ecm connectors like used on the 747's (it used two
connectors),
>>> |> 2. a set off a 730 type ecm (it had three connectors), with like
a
>>> |> foot (preferably more) of wire on them for doing some bench work.
>>> |> 3. Then a entire harness outta like a 90-91 2.8 Celebrity, or any
other
>>> |> 1227730 ecm equipped car.  Not looking for freebies, just
resonable
>>> |> priced ones.
>>> |> Nor a worry mate.
>>> |> Bruce
>>> |
>>> |
>>> |What's reasonable?  Local bone yard sells harnesses for $50,
>>> |and ECM for $50.  Can maybe get both for $75, but seems high
>>> |to me.  If interested, I'll make some calls.
>>> |
>>> |Shannen
>>> |
>>I'll call you on that.  When you have a harness and ECM from
>>86-91 chev pickup (1227747 ecm) let me know.  I'm sure
>>there's a deal in there.
>>
>>Or, when you have the harness and ECM from 2.8l 1227730 car,
>>the same applies.  
>>
>>Shannen


=================================================================
Jim Velasquez                  | email: jim_velasquez@partech.com
Senior C/S Support Analyst -   | phone:    (303)444-0120 ext.5683
ParTech Inc.       NYSE: (PTC) | cellular: (303)641-4546
5757 Central Ave.              | URL:     http://www.partech.com/
Boulder CO 80301               | 24x7 Pager:303 444 0120 ext.5684
=================================================================


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Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 15:26:27 -0700
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: 3.8L screamers
In-Reply-To: <199805041608.CAA18629@corinna.its.utas.edu.au>
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>WOW! That's not bad at all! I've heard of a 3.1L turbo straight 6 (with a
>bit of nitrous) getting 670HP, but a 3.8 (is this the V6 Buick - the one
>that's found in Oz in the Holden Commodore?) getting 820HP (I assume with no

The test was to determine how much power the block could take, how much
boost  could run, and how much octane I needed.  The engine was from a
front-wheel drive 3.8L Buick LeSabre, not a Buick GN.  I was suprised at
the figures myself, and the engine ran about 20 minutes on the Dyno before
parts became projectiles.

In order to hold the block together, one needs a stage II block, a block
girdle, and a variety of other clamping goodies.

The ice water intercooling idea was to really see how much boost we could
run.  We kept the water at 40 degrees, using a fish tank, a bilge pump, and
an aluminum oil cooler welded into the airstream (manifold). The final
version of this will be a 4.1L RWD block, with the aluminum custom manifold
(I have it partially built already), using refrigerant to cool the water
running through the intercooler.  This cools the air, compresses the intake
charge, and hopefully for short bursts of power, the air compressor won't
have to run constantly, just after the shot power bursts.  Since it takes a
while to for the water to heat up (it has to circulate), the cold water can
hold the coolness during hard bursts of power, then be cooled down when the
load is light and the A/C compressor can run again.

IN theory :)

Talk to me in about a year, and I'll let you know if I wasted 200lbs of
crap or not :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 16:02:15 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 13:02:57 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Mon, 04 May 1998 11:57:58 -0700, "Scott Mo." <scottmo@teleport.com>
wrote:

>Just a quick comment, IMHO $100 a year to get the SAE Automotive
>Engineering magazine and to be able to search the technical paper
>listing archives on line is CHEAP! compared to the time you will spend
>trying to figure out this stuff on your own. Best $100 you will ever
>spend...

Well, I'm not being cheap (no one's EVER accused me of that yet), I just
find the SAE's practice of charging, and sometimes charging a LOT, even
from it's members, a tad penurious. I'm a member of the IEEE in my
trade, and we don't have any such onerous pick-pocketing as yous guys
seem to take fer granted. I mean sheesh, EVEN if you ARE a member of
SAE, it costs you $50/yr to have access to the backward Bibliography via
WebDex?! Come on, this is a great way to send a message you see your
members as a bunch of cash cows. Sorry, just my attitude about
professional societies; it's a society, not a racket. I don't wanna have
to pay for every breath I take. MY trade, EE, doesn't seem to need to
stoop to such nickleNdime tactics. What exactly about the automotive
engineer makes him look like a sucker waiting to be fleeced at every
turn?

Sorry to take such a spin, especially since you were kind enough to post
these references for the project, but this whole idea of secrecy,
charging each other for every tidbit of info, and making everything
smell like some smarmy boy's club just gets my shorts in an uproar real
fast. I'm a firm believer in intellectual property, but treating every
whisper and every thot and every relationship and every published
research paper as a revenue source just sours the whole eXperience for
me. We might as well try to charge each other on this group, fees for
every post we put out that someone else reads. What the hell's the
matter with us as a race lately, to make the "commercial model" the
be-all end-all of human experience. Do we really all wanna be just like
Billy Gates or Jimmy the Pimp, and look upon everybody as a "mark" and
mere source of "revenue"? The SAE is a non-profit organization,
supposedly, but you sure couldn't tell it by watching them sell their
wares. Growl.

Like I said before, if you wanna get a good flavor for this attitude,
just ask yourself "what your own Mother has done for you lately." We
keep this idea up, and we'll obliterate from our societies even the very
concept of comradery, fellowship, and even friendship. A workman is
worthy of his wages, it's true, but don't drag the "hireling" attitude
into your personal and professional relationships, unless you wanna dry
up like some mosquito on a deserted island.

>Here are some SAE Technical papers that came up during a quick search on
>SAAB

Thanks. Very generous of you. I do appreciate it. ION thanks you, too.
B)

Gargrumpy


>  Document Number:970854
>  Title:
>  Closed loop ignition control by ionization current interpretation
>  Publication Date:Feb 1997
>  Author(s):Eriksson, Lars; Nielsen, Lars; Glavenius, Mikael
>  Book containing this paper(s):SP-1236
>  Index Terms:Ignition controllers; Ions; Pressure measurement; Real
>time control; Spark timing
>
>
>  Document Number:960045
>  Title:Ignition control by ionization current interpretation
>  Publication Date: Feb 1996
>  Author(s):Eriksson, Lars; Nielsen, Lars; Nytomt, Jan
>  Book containing this paper(s):SP-1149
>  Index Terms:Ignition; Ignition controllers; Spark ignition engines;
>Ignition timing; Cylinder pressure;Performance
>
>
>Here is another that may have some info.
>  Document Number:890044
>  Title:Saab direct ignition system and its cold start performance
>  Publication Date:1989



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 16:08:25 1998
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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Refrigerants
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 17:09:20 -0300 
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You will find that 15 or 20 years ago, an article was published in
Popular Mechanics magazine, entitiled something like "Build a Bottoming
Cycle Engine".  It featured a system which extracted waste heat from the
exhaust gas using (you guessed it) refrigerant gas.  The gas was then
used in a Sterling cycle engine to crank out lots of low rpm torque.  If
this is what your plan is...forget it.  It's been done.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au
> [SMTP:danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au]
> Sent:	Monday, May 04, 1998 12:58 AM
> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:	Re: Refrigerants
> 
> I can see that my question has produces a plethora of new (but some
> may not
> be) ideas, but this one still isn't what I am doing. It might be a
> good idea
> though, if the power unit doesn't weigh too much...
> 
> Danny Barrett
> 
> 
> >I have always wanted to use surplus exhaust heat to run a 
> >power unit that would crank the alternator, a/c and power 
> >steering.  The unit can be mounted remotely from the engine 
> >and located where the weight and volume can be best 
> >accomodated.  Without those accessories the engine 
> >will be slim and trim.  There would likely be a surplus 
> >of electric power available so even the water pump can be 
> >electric.  Good idea
> >
> >John Carroll
> >
> >John Carroll
> >jac@wavecom.net
> >
> >

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 16:10:16 1998
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On Mon, 4 May 1998, Jim Velasquez wrote:
> just starting this project, so I might even set up the system 'on the
> bench' ala the 101 stuff  happening elsewhere on the list...

'Tis possible.  I managed to get enough parts together for
a trial run yesterday.  I'm pretty sure the gas serves
as a builtin heatsink for the injectors and therefore your
tests should be short lived (or with a non-volatile liquid
in the place of gasoline).

As for my cobbled together project...I'm starting with a
CFI (dual TBIs) manifold driven by our project '747. I
haven't managed to get "closed loop" mode out of it yet,
but the injectors are a buzzin'--all on the bench.

I'm gonna send my GM truck EPROM image as soon as my 
programmer comes in (sorry fellas -- it didn't make it
last week due to the infamous computer glitch). I talked
to 'em a bit ago and it should be here in 2-3 days.

Question:
If anyone's still readin' here....will the new style HEI
distributor module fire an old point-type coil?  What 
would I be losing to do that?  I hate to see that bright
yellow SuperCoil replaced by the dingy black OEM one. :)

-greg

PS--The fella that's working on an invention...has invented
a way to fill our mailboxes. It may not be patentable,
but it works damn well!   No CSH required.


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 16:34:32 1998
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Subject: Re[2]: Refrigerants
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     Danny:
     
     With all due respect, I don't think throwing this "teaser" out into 
     the realm of a DIY-EFI forum is useful. First of all, it has generated 
     a bunch of NC posts, and second...if it doesn't have to do with EFI, 
     why was it posted here?
     
     I for one enjoy related subjects even if the thread is barely related 
     to EFI, however I don't like to be held in suspense like this. Please, 
     if you are planning on discussing this further, at least flesh it out 
     a tad. If indeed you are in the process of developing this, and it is 
     patentable, I would think your development efforts to date would keep 
     you well in front of any "competition" that may get wind of it.
     
     Just my .02
     
     TTYL!
     
     Larry Kurek


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RE: Refrigerants
Author:  <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu> at internet
Date:    5/4/98 12:36 PM


Just had this guess... Sorry... Not what I'm doing... Nice try though.
     
Just a thought... isn't it interesting how if you say you have a "secret," 
that you have to keep to yourself for now, everyone seems to try to guess 
what it is.....
     
Danny Barrett.
     
>My bid.......
>
>Peltier effect cells cooling fuel?
>
>Just kidding :-)
>
>Peter
>
>
>----------
>From:         Danny Barrett
>Sent:         Monday, May 04, 1998 4:09 AM 
>To:         diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu 
>Subject:         Re: Refrigerants
>
>Sorry, wrong again...
>got nothing to do with an intercooler, in fact nothing to do with the intake 
>air. Also, nothing to do with cooling the heads, although, I could add it 
>in, and make the thing work even better.....
>
>Danny Barrett.
>
>>Gwyn Reedy wrote:
>>> 
>>> Sounds like a refrigerated intercooler to me. What do you call an 
>>> intercooler if there is no blower attached? A pre-cooler?
>>
>>I don't think there are any turbochargers that heat the air up to 500 
>>deg C... That's damn hot! I think it might be a new cooling system, so 
>>the heads are nice and cool=> run more boost, less knock, more power. Am 
>>I close? This is a neat puzzle ;)
>>
>>A.
>>
>>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
>
     
     



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From: "Gregory A. Parmer" <gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu>
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On Mon, 4 May 1998 garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:
> <snip...>
> worthy of his wages, it's true, but don't drag the "hireling" attitude
> into your personal and professional relationships, unless you wanna dry
> up like some mosquito on a deserted island.
> 
> Gargrumpy


Hehehe....what he said....SAE would say that they have to pay
for overhead, but it's still a bad way to do business.

And thanks for the SAE references, Scott.

FWIW--There is a demo CD available from http://www.sae.org. I'll
let you know if/when it gets here. It sounds too good to be true
so it probably is.

-gregrumpy II              do benadryl and amphetamines mix :^?


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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: jim's Poncho EFI
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 17:41:22 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Gregory A. Parmer <gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, May 04, 1998 5:08 PM
Subject: re: jim's Poncho EFI


>
>On Mon, 4 May 1998, Jim Velasquez wrote:
>> just starting this project, so I might even set up the system 'on the
>> bench' ala the 101 stuff  happening elsewhere on the list...
>
>'Tis possible.  I managed to get enough parts together for
>a trial run yesterday.  I'm pretty sure the gas serves
>as a builtin heatsink for the injectors and therefore your
>tests should be short lived (or with a non-volatile liquid
>in the place of gasoline).
>
I'm just gonna run some large resistors instead of the actual
injectors, like 20 ohm, 10 watt.  Should be able to do dwell
meter or scope off of that.  While the P+H drivers would be
"confused" by not seeing a big load, I don't think this will 
interfer with the actual signal processing....

>As for my cobbled together project...I'm starting with a
>CFI (dual TBIs) manifold driven by our project '747. I
>haven't managed to get "closed loop" mode out of it yet,
>but the injectors are a buzzin'--all on the bench.
>
>I'm gonna send my GM truck EPROM image as soon as my 
>programmer comes in (sorry fellas -- it didn't make it
>last week due to the infamous computer glitch). I talked
>to 'em a bit ago and it should be here in 2-3 days.
>
>Question:
>If anyone's still readin' here....will the new style HEI
>distributor module fire an old point-type coil? 

Yes, but the "Electronic Ignition" coils have a lower 
resistance, hence less spark energy.

 What would I be losing to do that?  I hate to see that bright
>yellow SuperCoil replaced by the dingy black OEM one. :)
>
>-greg
>
Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 18:00:01 1998
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Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 14:58:55 -0700
From: "Scott Mo." <scottmo@teleport.com>
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References: <356fda6b.50857750@santaclara01.pop.internex.net> <354E0FB6.F43@teleport.com> <357f17fc.66618750@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
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>"Scott Mo." <scottmo@teleport.com>
> wrote:
>  >Just a quick comment, IMHO $100 a year to get the SAE Automotive
> >Engineering magazine and to be able to search the technical paper
> >listing archives on line is CHEAP! <snip>

garfield@pilgrimhouse.com responded: 
> Well, I'm not being cheap (no one's EVER accused me of that yet), I
 just find the SAE's practice of charging, and sometimes charging a LOT,
evenfrom it's members, a tad penurious.<Big Snip>
> Gargrumpy

This may surpise you, but Yes, I could not agree more, SAE certainly
does nickel and dime you every time you want something. When you look at
the costs for some of their publications or to attend their conferences,
there are a lot of nickels and dimes being expended....I must say that I
really enjoyed your response and have not read something that has been
stated that well in a long time..thanks

There are ways to get the SAE information without paying much. BUT, it
does take a little work on your part. As I mentioned, most Libraries
have the SAE articles on microfiche and you can make copies of them at
the Library. Note: SAE may want you to send them some money $7 when you
do this copying :-(

There is also a SAE index so called the "SAE Handbook" you can use to
look up all the previous SAE technical articles by Author, number,
Subject etc , the library should also have the latest version of this.

I guess I look at the $50 charge/year to search their archives as a
"service" fee that I must pay to cover the costs to make all this
information available on the internet. When I compare it to the time I
had to spend previously searching for information, I find it  a very
reasonable price to pay. 

When I look at the time I have put in to developing a web site, I now
know that it costs money and time. Is it ok or "right" for SAE to charge
me for this? I don't really care, I want the info and I am more than
willing to pay for it, thousands of engineers and thousands of companies
pad big bucks to develop these ideas and systems, and I am amazed that I
even get to look at any of it. 

Sometimes there ain't no free lunch...

Cheers
Scott Mo.
1989 Audi 200TQ
1988 5000TQ
1984 4000S
1966 VW Beetle
http://www.teleport.com/~scottmo

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 18:07:31 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "Richard W. Cowan" <gt1040a@prism.gatech.edu>
Subject: Re: High MPG
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At 02:24 AM 5/5/98 +1000, you wrote:
>Yes, I agree. In fact, I think that if as much time, effort, and money was
>put into the development of a turbine engine (like the Chrysler one) as has
>been put into the engines we currently run, the "200 MPG carb" type idea
>would be a case of "so what!" In the case of the Chrysler turbine, it had a
>very ingeneous heat transfer drvice that recycled otherwise wasted heat from
<snip>

<delurk>
Yes, ICEs are incredibly inefficient, and probably no amount of tweaking
will ever make it as good as electric.  Turbines are excellent compared to
ICEs but they suck for stop-n-go.  That's why they make great airplane
engines and lousy auto engines. 

This is probably [nc], but IMO the words "automobile" and "efficient" are
never going to go together until they are all switched to electric sometime
(before you can say dead oil lobby).  Then we'll have to change the list
from DYIEFI to DYI(more amperage!).  (Of course the electricity to charge
the batteries will still be generated by coal-burning plants until we
switch to nuclear).  Hopefully by then we will be beyond the days of the
electric-golf-cart-with-a-sloop-rig-for-windy-days.

I had the opportunity to drive the GM EV1 and a Rav4 EV.  The batteries are
still friggin huge, range sucked, its still expensive, but the power output
at the wheels was far beyond what I expected.  The future doesn't look
quite so dim anymore.

Sorry for the rambling

Richard BME '96, GA Tech.  Go Jackets!
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~vap1rc



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 19:01:04 1998
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From: "Derek Jewett" <djewett@snowcrest.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: High MPG
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 16:01:28 -0700
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I have a hard time believing electric vehicles will ever replace or even
compliment (on any scale) internal combustion engine powered vehicles. For
example look at Honda's ZLEV engine, it produces such low emissions it
actually cleans the air in smoggy areas!! (i.e. Los Angeles), and it has
been proven that zero level emissions vehicles or ZLEV's I believe they're
called, produce less emissions when compared to the emissions produced to
generate enough electricity to power the same car the same distance, etc..
So in summary EFI will be around for a long time to come! 

This has been a CARB service message
Derek Jewett - "clean air advocate"
1975 Chevy LUV w/383 small block
carbureted, and lotsa black smoke!

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 19:41:43 1998
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Chrysler Turbine: 120hp/425ftT-lbs torque


-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, May 04, 1998 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: High MPG


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Monday, May 04, 1998 12:55 PM
>Subject: Re: High MPG
>
>
>>Yes, I agree. In fact, I think that if as much time, effort, and money was
>put into the development of a turbine engine (like the Chrysler one) as has
>been put into the engines we currently run, the "200 MPG carb" type idea
>would be a case of "so what!" In the case of the Chrysler turbine, it had a
>very ingeneous heat transfer drvice that recycled otherwise wasted heat
from
>the exhaust to the intake, thereby making the engine more efficient (this
is
>a bit more difficult with the IC engine to say the least - basically, it
has
>to be stored as chemical potential energy within the fuel, and this can
only
>>be done by chemically altering the fuel with an endothermic reaction). The
>problem that I can see with the heat exchanger is that it didn't exchange
>enough of the exhaust heat. Obviously, if it exchanged more, with a greater
>efficiency, the engine would be more efficient - it's basic thermodynamics,
>and it's even given a name - "Regenerative cycle" ie. recycle waste heat
>>energy to raise the efficiency of the engine. And guess what... It's
>easiest
>>to do with some sort of turbine. Perhaps someone should revisit the old
>>Chrisler engine and make the heat exchanger more efficient???
>>
>>Danny Barrett.
>>
>>
>The most impressive moment I had around the Chy Turbine car
>was standing behind it, and the ambient temp rising from 60-70F
>to well over 100, very quickly.  Maybe an over impression of youth
>but it made ya walk away in a hurrry.
>
>Bruce
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 20:00:47 1998
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Richard W. Cowan wrote:

> <delurk>
> Yes, ICEs are incredibly inefficient, and probably no amount of tweaking
> will ever make it as good as electric.  Turbines are excellent compared to
> ICEs but they suck for stop-n-go.  That's why they make great airplane
> engines and lousy auto engines.

Besides steady power requirements turbines don't size down well.  Clearances
along the edges remain the same size in large units as small so the small units
are less efficient.  This is while in small power generation (less than tens of
kW diesel rule).  Also why in trains and ships diesels are still the most popular
power plant.

> This is probably [nc], but IMO the words "automobile" and "efficient" are
> never going to go together until they are all switched to electric sometime
> (before you can say dead oil lobby).  Then we'll have to change the list
> from DYIEFI to DYI(more amperage!).  (Of course the electricity to charge
> the batteries will still be generated by coal-burning plants until we
> switch to nuclear).  Hopefully by then we will be beyond the days of the
> electric-golf-cart-with-a-sloop-rig-for-windy-days.
>
> I had the opportunity to drive the GM EV1 and a Rav4 EV.  The batteries are
> still friggin huge, range sucked, its still expensive, but the power output
> at the wheels was far beyond what I expected.  The future doesn't look
> quite so dim anymore.
>
> Sorry for the rambling
>
> Richard BME '96, GA Tech.  Go Jackets!
> http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~vap1rc

  As far as electric goes they use more energy per mile than an efficient ICE
automobile.  The EV1 uses 248 watt-hrs/mi (measured at the charger)  The RAV4
uses 412 watt-hrs/mi (again at the charger)  This electricity is produced at a
fossil fueled plant (the energy used by EVs should be counted against the
incremental generator not the base plants since they represent a new load).
These plants need approximately 10,000 btus of fuel to produce 1,000 watt-hour of
energy.  So the EV1 uses the equivalent of 2480 btus to travel a mile.  Since
gasoline has 114,000 btus per gallon the EV1 is getting the equivalent of 46
mpg.  The RAV4EV is getting the equivalent of 28 mpg.  Neither of these figures
beats a good ICE vehicle with the same performance.

To reduce oil use with electric vehicles will require a nuclear based electrical
system.  Until that happens we should save fuel by using mass transit (where
available), efficient ICE (vehicles not inefficient EVs and not SUVs), and by
cutting wasted travel.


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 20:11:36 1998
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From: "M&D" <91coupe@bellsouth.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: High MPG
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 20:17:54 -0400
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<Humor>
I, and countless thousands of others, take umbrage to your omission of the
Wankel rotary engine as an alternative to pushrods. (What we call boingers).
:)
</Humor>
Seriously though, although the wankel wasn't very efficient to start with,
Mazda's latest MSP-RE engine puts out like 225HP with 1.3 Liters, and gets
25 MPG or so. Naturally aspirated. Would that they would go into
production...
Anyway, just wanted to put a slant on things.

Michael Harrington
91coupe@bellsouth.net and http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/downs/4038
91 RX-7 Coupe "Pearl" w/ some mods
88 RX-7 T2 "Beast" sitting in carport :(
N3WJE Technician+ Ham

-----Original Message-----
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, May 04, 1998 10:58 AM
Subject: High MPG


>>Something you mentioned: I know of Charles Nelson Pogue's "200 MPG carb."
>>And I know about the chemistry of how it worked, and why its results were
>>not very reliable (I know more about the chemistry of it than he did at
the
>>time - but this doesn't take much). Asside from this, Pogue stated in an
>
>Unfortunately, these kind of devices and technology are basically bandaids
>to a much greater problem, one of great inefficiency.  A pushrod engine is
>about as ineffecient as an engine can get, however it does have its merits.
> I think once engineers start moving away from a 100 year old design,
>things will definately get better mileage wise.  I don't have the URLs
>handy, however there are two such engines that have strayed away from
>pushrods, but replacing the rotating assembly with a giant Cam.  The cam,
>instead of controlling valve timing, is driven by the pistons, which are
>configured in a radial fashion.  The one engine that is running (and in the
>internet), creates very little horsepower, however the torque it generates
>phenominal as compared to its weight, size, and configuration.
>
>I think pushrod engines waste something in the neighborhood of 80% of the
>available power in the gasoline.
>
>
>Frederic Breitwieser
>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>
>Homebrew Automotive Website:
>http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
>
>1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>1989 HMMWV
>2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
>
>-
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 20:51:04 1998
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From: Paul Tholey <pft101@psu.edu>
Subject: Ford MAF
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Attn: Ford Guys

        A friend with a 1994 Escort GT, 1.8 twin cam is looking to do some
minor modifications.  The MAF is the flapper door style.  It has a 7 pin
connector.  We pulled the other style MAF off a plain Escort.  It has a 4
pin connector labled A B C D.  Is there a way to incorporate this less
restictive MAF into the twin cam Escort setup?  I think they both have the
same output, just concerned about the scaling.
        Anyother tips/advice is appreciated.

Paul Tholey


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Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 21:39:19 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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Subject: Re: High MPG electic raving
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Christopher G. Moog wrote:
> 
> Richard W. Cowan wrote:
> 
> > <delurk>
> > Yes, ICEs are incredibly inefficient, and probably no amount of tweaking
> > will ever make it as good as electric.  Turbines are excellent compared to
> > ICEs but they suck for stop-n-go.  That's why they make great airplane
> > engines and lousy auto engines.
> 
> Besides steady power requirements turbines don't size down well.  Clearances
> along the edges remain the same size in large units as small so the small units
> are less efficient.  This is while in small power generation (less than tens of
> kW diesel rule).  Also why in trains and ships diesels are still the most popular
> power plant.
> 
> > This is probably [nc], but IMO the words "automobile" and "efficient" are
> > never going to go together until they are all switched to electric sometime
> > (before you can say dead oil lobby).  Then we'll have to change the list
> > from DYIEFI to DYI(more amperage!).  (Of course the electricity to charge
> > the batteries will still be generated by coal-burning plants until we
> > switch to nuclear).  Hopefully by then we will be beyond the days of the
> > electric-golf-cart-with-a-sloop-rig-for-windy-days.
> >
> > I had the opportunity to drive the GM EV1 and a Rav4 EV.  The batteries are
> > still friggin huge, range sucked, its still expensive, but the power output
> > at the wheels was far beyond what I expected.  The future doesn't look
> > quite so dim anymore.
> >
> > Sorry for the rambling
> >
> > Richard BME '96, GA Tech.  Go Jackets!
> > http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~vap1rc
> 
>   As far as electric goes they use more energy per mile than an efficient ICE
> automobile.  The EV1 uses 248 watt-hrs/mi (measured at the charger)  The RAV4
> uses 412 watt-hrs/mi (again at the charger)  This electricity is produced at a
> fossil fueled plant (the energy used by EVs should be counted against the
> incremental generator not the base plants since they represent a new load).
> These plants need approximately 10,000 btus of fuel to produce 1,000 watt-hour of
> energy.  So the EV1 uses the equivalent of 2480 btus to travel a mile.  Since
> gasoline has 114,000 btus per gallon the EV1 is getting the equivalent of 46
> mpg.  The RAV4EV is getting the equivalent of 28 mpg.  Neither of these figures
> beats a good ICE vehicle with the same performance.
> 
> To reduce oil use with electric vehicles will require a nuclear based electrical
> system.  Until that happens we should save fuel by using mass transit (where
> available), efficient ICE (vehicles not inefficient EVs and not SUVs), and by
> cutting wasted travel.

In Ontario, we have been running on nuclear energy for many years. The
CANDU is supposed to be the best system out there - and we are shutting
virtually ALL of them down. Problems with maintenance and expense -
Mabee if they privatise the system someone will manage to run it
efficiently, but what about safely? I'm of a mixed mind on the subject.

As for the efficiency arguement, a LARGE turbine is more efficient than
a small one, and constant load helps too. Therfore, a properly designed
oil or NG fired turbine generator can be a lot more efficient than
current designs. Even with generator and transmission losses, the EV of
tomorrow, including power generation, will likely be more efficient and
less poluting on the whole than anything that exists today, and than any
ICE of tomorrow. However, the EV of tomorrow will NOT depend on the grid
for power. Ballard Energy, and others of their ilk, will see to that.
Fuel cells will be the future.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 21:47:37 1998
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Subject: depot boardsRe: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
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I have access to a lab materials to remove most any epoxy from
electronic parts. But can't promise if the unit will work but they work
in 99% of the time.Contact me off line if you want this done.

Steve
kb4mxo@mwt.net

garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:

> Hey Maties.
>
> I been keepin this under me hat for a while, but thot I'd spill the
> beans and max out the fun, now that I have a Lab Rat working. Member
> that thread awhile back about using the post-spark ionization current
> to
> detect detonation and misfires? Well, one of our illustrious members,
> whose initials are Jim Crance (golly, I hope he doesn't mind taking a
> bow), who's also a fellow pilot, got aholdOme and said he had a
> slightly
> marginal Trionic Ignition/Ionization unit from Saab that worked fine
> excpet it hickup'd whenever it was in a deep freeze, and would I like
> to
> have a look? Jim's a Saab (& other Euro's) Mech. So I got the thang
> last
> week before last, along with a nice Saab 9000 manual Jim sent along,
> and
> danged if it don't look feasible to diy.
>
> The assembly's epoxy potted, so limits my snooping to watching it fly
> from the outside (just as well), but like I said before, I figure
> ANYTHING that's being mass deployed in the commercial auto market has
> GOT to be diy'able; otherwise anything twitchy/complicated/sensitive
> isn't gonna make it, and Saab's apparently been using this technology
> since '93!! Does this remind you at all of EGOR?
>
> So, here's the plan. Just like before, instead of 'cheating' and
> looking
> inside, we'll use the same approach as on EGOR, and try to LEARN how
> it
> works, with yous guys help, like before. Now, since I'm not a member
> of
> SAE, and I see they want a $100/yr subscription JUST to search their
> Paper's bibliography, I am soliciting help in locating any/all
> articles/info on this system. I can't imagine Saab not touting it
> upon/in-prep-for it's introduction in '93, so there have GOT to be
> some
> interesting/useful papers available. Soooo, any of yous guys with a
> moment and a membership in SAE, could you start the ball rolling by
> doing a search in the SAE Bibliography for any hits on the following
> known good keywords:
>         Saab  AND Trionic, "Ignition Discharge Module", Ionization,
> etc.
>
> The manual Jim sent me says "The Saab Trionic system was introduced in
>
> 1993 on Saab 9000 models fitted with the B234L engine." The manual
> itself if for '96, and assuming they're still using this Trionic stuff
>
> in '98, that means the thang's been deployed for 5 years. That oughta
> be
> enough to convince anyone it works, I would guess. [Saab sells alot of
>
> them Turbo 9000's, don't it? At any rate I sure see alot of them here
> in
> Calif. A fan of the yuppie crowd, ifyaknowadamean.]
>
> Finally, Fair Use allows us the privilege of posting a few of the key
> pages from the manual to wet your appetite, so I'll scan a couple in
> and
> post them up on the FTP site. This could give ole EGOR a definitive
> challenge to his nascent fameNnotoriety. Now he's gonna have
> competition. Sorta like the Red & Yellow MnM bozos. Heh.
>
> Let's get'er rollin, dudes. Cuz this tech sure looks like it beats the
>
> acoustic knock detection schemes by a Swedish mile! And, unless we get
> a
> total firehose of activity on this and begin to overload the list, how
>
> bout you POST your finds instead of sending them to me privately.
> Might
> encourage the beehive effect, and bring everyone interested up to
> speed
> that much faster. [BTW, didy'all know that this gizmo is even used to
> "commute" the spark/injection, by replacing the cam sensor? Yeah, it
> detects which "other" pair of plugs is firing via ionization current,
> and combined with the crank sensor for the "intersecting pair",
> determines which cylinder is at TDC on it's power stroke. Cool, eh?]
>
> Cheers maties; if we pull THIS one off, we'll have to think seriously
> about holding some kinda party or sumpin, eh? Could be fun.
>
> Gar




From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 21:48:08 1998
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>Anyway, just wanted to put a slant on things.

Okay Michael, short and sweet- my apologies for not including the wankel in
my suggestive list of inefficient antiquated technology :)

<smile>


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 22:40:20 1998
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From: "Robert Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
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The disadvantage of an acoustical knock detector is that it detects the
"sound" of knocking, i.e. a certain frequency and type of noise that
unfortunately can be masked or enhanced by physical engine charactoristics
(aluminum, iron etc) and change's frequency etc by many factors and the fact
that ordinary engine noise has to be filtered out.

The Ionization Knock Detector looks for a specific event in the combustion
gasses - the sudden appearance of ionization products after ignition.  Since
this mechanism is not heavily engine material, size, fuel, temp, ambient
noise dependent for determining its characteristics, the detection of the
event is straightforward without the need of highly sophisticated self
anally extracting make TI rich DSP's.   Start with a clean signal and you
don't need the hi fangle BS to make the system work - a strange concept I
know but once upon a time was considered the way to do things.

Properly done, ION can work on everything from a lawnmower to a Multi-staged
turbo intercooled alcohol fueled road rocket without any basic changes or
tuning.  It simply must detect the knock related ionization event - which
incidentally will cause a low voltage dc conduction across the spark gap.
Simple.  Non computerized, wazoo ized and eminently doable without anything
even approaching a DSP.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Don Berry
> Sent: Monday, May 04, 1998 10:12 AM
> To: 'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'
> Subject: RE: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
>
>
> 		Has anyone considered use a DSP (digital signal processor)
> for acoustic knock detection? I understand that they can actually operate
> with a negative signal to noise ratio.
>
> 		Don
>
> 		...and no, my Chevy does NOT run Windows!  ;^)
>
>
>
> 		-----Original Message-----
>
> 		snip
>
>
> 		Cuz this tech sure looks like it beats the acoustic knock
> detection schemes by a Swedish mile!
>



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 23:02:35 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 20:03:18 -0700
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On Mon, 04 May 1998 20:38:22 -0500, Steven Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
wrote:

>I have access to a lab materials to remove most any epoxy from
>electronic parts. But can't promise if the unit will work but they work
>in 99% of the time.Contact me off line if you want this done.
>
>Steve

As I mentioned before, I hope I don't have to resort to this, but I will
look for another unit to maybe sacrifice. How bout you sharing the
methods and materials used?

I hope this is not another secret method. Sigh.

Gar


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Subject: Re: High MPG
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So you would agree that it had a lot of wasted heat energy going out the
exhaust???



>>Yes, I agree. In fact, I think that if as much time, effort, and money was
>put into the development of a turbine engine (like the Chrysler one) as has
>been put into the engines we currently run, the "200 MPG carb" type idea
>would be a case of "so what!" In the case of the Chrysler turbine, it had a
>very ingeneous heat transfer drvice that recycled otherwise wasted heat from
>the exhaust to the intake, thereby making the engine more efficient (this is
>a bit more difficult with the IC engine to say the least - basically, it has
>to be stored as chemical potential energy within the fuel, and this can only
>>be done by chemically altering the fuel with an endothermic reaction). The
>problem that I can see with the heat exchanger is that it didn't exchange
>enough of the exhaust heat. Obviously, if it exchanged more, with a greater
>efficiency, the engine would be more efficient - it's basic thermodynamics,
>and it's even given a name - "Regenerative cycle" ie. recycle waste heat
>>energy to raise the efficiency of the engine. And guess what... It's
>easiest
>>to do with some sort of turbine. Perhaps someone should revisit the old
>>Chrisler engine and make the heat exchanger more efficient???
>>
>>Danny Barrett.
>>
>>
>The most impressive moment I had around the Chy Turbine car
>was standing behind it, and the ambient temp rising from 60-70F
>to well over 100, very quickly.  Maybe an over impression of youth
>but it made ya walk away in a hurrry.
>
>Bruce
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 23:39:25 1998
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I agree about the ceramic engines, but aren't they a bit expensive???


>The efficiency, in terms of fuel used for power generated, of an internal
>combustion engine has to do with expansion ratio, combustion temperature and
>pumping loss.  2 valve, 4 valve, pushrod, OHC, etc have little or no effect
>on efficiency.  High winding multi valve engines get more power per
>displacement but not necessarily more power per weight or cost.  Maybe you
>con't like pushrods, or they are aesthetically displeasing to you but they
>are certainly not less efficient.
>
>A gasoline engine wastes only 60% of the energy in gasoline when operated at
>full throttle.  It wastes 80% at part throttle where it operates like a big
>vacuum pump with a leak and it wastes 100% at idle.  Multi-valve and
>overhead cams don't change these numbers.
>
>Gas turbines, steam, rotary, etc generally do worse.  The road to
>improvement is paved with reduced heat loss from exhaust and cooling.
>Ceramic parts which operate without cooling and greater expansion ratios can
>reduce this energy wastage.  None of which has anything to do with pushrods.
>
>Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>
>
><snip>
>
>>I think pushrod engines waste something in the neighborhood of 80% of the
>>available power in the gasoline.
>>
>>Frederic Breitwieser
>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 23:51:58 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Refrigerants
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Please see my more recent replies...


>
>     Danny:
>     
>     With all due respect, I don't think throwing this "teaser" out into 
>     the realm of a DIY-EFI forum is useful. First of all, it has generated 
>     a bunch of NC posts, and second...if it doesn't have to do with EFI, 
>     why was it posted here?
>     
>     I for one enjoy related subjects even if the thread is barely related 
>     to EFI, however I don't like to be held in suspense like this. Please, 
>     if you are planning on discussing this further, at least flesh it out 
>     a tad. If indeed you are in the process of developing this, and it is 
>     patentable, I would think your development efforts to date would keep 
>     you well in front of any "competition" that may get wind of it.
>     
>     Just my .02
>     
>     TTYL!
>     
>     Larry Kurek
>
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
>Subject: RE: Refrigerants
>Author:  <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu> at internet
>Date:    5/4/98 12:36 PM
>
>
>Just had this guess... Sorry... Not what I'm doing... Nice try though.
>     
>Just a thought... isn't it interesting how if you say you have a "secret," 
>that you have to keep to yourself for now, everyone seems to try to guess 
>what it is.....
>     
>Danny Barrett.
>     
>>My bid.......
>>
>>Peltier effect cells cooling fuel?
>>
>>Just kidding :-)
>>
>>Peter
>>
>>
>>----------
>>From:         Danny Barrett
>>Sent:         Monday, May 04, 1998 4:09 AM 
>>To:         diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu 
>>Subject:         Re: Refrigerants
>>
>>Sorry, wrong again...
>>got nothing to do with an intercooler, in fact nothing to do with the intake 
>>air. Also, nothing to do with cooling the heads, although, I could add it 
>>in, and make the thing work even better.....
>>
>>Danny Barrett.
>>
>>>Gwyn Reedy wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Sounds like a refrigerated intercooler to me. What do you call an 
>>>> intercooler if there is no blower attached? A pre-cooler?
>>>
>>>I don't think there are any turbochargers that heat the air up to 500 
>>>deg C... That's damn hot! I think it might be a new cooling system, so 
>>>the heads are nice and cool=> run more boost, less knock, more power. Am 
>>>I close? This is a neat puzzle ;)
>>>
>>>A.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT
>>M>)\^(@,!`0:0" `$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y 0```````#H``$(@ <` 
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>     
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>     
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>>ME?AVO0% ``@PP*KDE?AVO0$>`#T``0````4```!213H@``````,`#33]-P`` 
>>"^(-V
>>`
>>end
>>
>>
>>
>>
>     
>     
>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May  4 23:49:38 1998
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Subject: RE: Refrigerants
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Well, it seems as if my idea has already been used. However, I would be
using it in an internal combustion engine (storing the energy chemically, by
altering the fuel to a higher octane fuel, with lower combustion heat, and
more mechanical power output from the combustion of it).

Danny Barrett.

>You will find that 15 or 20 years ago, an article was published in
>Popular Mechanics magazine, entitiled something like "Build a Bottoming
>Cycle Engine".  It featured a system which extracted waste heat from the
>exhaust gas using (you guessed it) refrigerant gas.  The gas was then
>used in a Sterling cycle engine to crank out lots of low rpm torque.  If
>this is what your plan is...forget it.  It's been done.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From:	danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au
>> [SMTP:danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au]
>> Sent:	Monday, May 04, 1998 12:58 AM
>> To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>> Subject:	Re: Refrigerants
>> 
>> I can see that my question has produces a plethora of new (but some
>> may not
>> be) ideas, but this one still isn't what I am doing. It might be a
>> good idea
>> though, if the power unit doesn't weigh too much...
>> 
>> Danny Barrett
>> 
>> 
>> >I have always wanted to use surplus exhaust heat to run a 
>> >power unit that would crank the alternator, a/c and power 
>> >steering.  The unit can be mounted remotely from the engine 
>> >and located where the weight and volume can be best 
>> >accomodated.  Without those accessories the engine 
>> >will be slim and trim.  There would likely be a surplus 
>> >of electric power available so even the water pump can be 
>> >electric.  Good idea
>> >
>> >John Carroll
>> >
>> >John Carroll
>> >jac@wavecom.net
>> >
>> >
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 00:04:37 1998
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Message-ID: <01BD782D.E930E8C0.dzorde@soanar.com.au>
From: Dan Zorde <dzorde@soanar.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Refrigerants, Wide range EGO and other thoughts.
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 13:58:40 +0800
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Just place a Hazchem sticker on your car, and hope you don't have an accident. 
 I'm sure the EPA would have a few things to say after a gallon or so of 
ammonium have spilt all over the road and knocked out any nearby witnesses. 
 Would look spectacular but.

Dan	dzorde@soanar.com.au

-----Original Message-----
From:	steve ravet [SMTP:steve@sun4c409.imes.com]
Sent:	Monday, 04 May, 1998 9:24 PM
To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:	Re: Refrigerants, Wide range EGO and other thoughts.

Thor Johnson wrote:
>
> > Refrigerants
> >
> > Sounds like someone is trying to adapt the ammonia  absorption
> cycle
> > refrigeration system to use as an intercooler.  What is
> interesting is that
> > although this cycle is less "efficient" at cooling  than a
> compressed gas
> > cycle, it gets it's pumping energy from heat - in the  case of
> a propane RV
> > refrigerator from a small propane flame, or in this  case from
> the waste heat
> > of the exhaust.  The problem is probably the exhaust
> temperatures raise the
> > ammonia/water solution past the efficient working  range and
> the gentleman is
> > looking for another absorption cycle fluid that will work in
> this range.
>
> You have any good sources of info on the ammonia cycle?  I'm a
> nuts&bolts guy who would like to build one for the heck of it....
> (An EE that likes to play with the ME's toys ;).

Get on Deja News, and do a search on ammonia refrigerators.  You'll come
up with a lot of posts in rec.boating of all places, including one that
explains ammonia fridges in detail.  The author's name is Rod McInnis.
A mixture of water and ammonia is heated in a column.  Because of
different boiling points, one end of the column is mostly ammonia, the
other end is mostly water.  The two are separated, and pumped into the
fridge.  When water and ammonia mix, the temperature of the mix goes way
down.  It's a physical process, not a chemical one, that I cannot
remember the name of right now.  The mixture never changes pressure, so
there is no compresor.  The only energy input is a flame or electric
heat to boil the mixture.  In an RV, there isn't even a pump, the system
is cleverly designed so that the gravity causes the mixture to
circulate.  That won't work in a car with lateral G forces, but there's
no reason why you couldn't add a small pump to circulate the mixture.
It's been mentioned before here, it seems like it would be a good way to
use exhaust heat to cool the incoming mixture.  The only thing is that
the ammonia mixture is very stong (poisonous), much stronger than
cleaning products.

--steve

>
> TIA,
> -Thor Johnson
> thormj@iname.com

--
Steve Ravet
International Meta Systems
http://www.imes.com
steve@imes.com


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Hmmm.... Sounds like we're stuck with the ICE. I don't really like the idea
of having a nuclear reactor in the car...




>Besides steady power requirements turbines don't size down well.  Clearances
>along the edges remain the same size in large units as small so the small units
>are less efficient.  This is while in small power generation (less than tens of
>kW diesel rule).  Also why in trains and ships diesels are still the most
popular
>power plant.
>
>  As far as electric goes they use more energy per mile than an efficient ICE
>automobile.  The EV1 uses 248 watt-hrs/mi (measured at the charger)  The RAV4
>uses 412 watt-hrs/mi (again at the charger)  This electricity is produced at a
>fossil fueled plant (the energy used by EVs should be counted against the
>incremental generator not the base plants since they represent a new load).
>These plants need approximately 10,000 btus of fuel to produce 1,000
watt-hour of
>energy.  So the EV1 uses the equivalent of 2480 btus to travel a mile.  Since
>gasoline has 114,000 btus per gallon the EV1 is getting the equivalent of 46
>mpg.  The RAV4EV is getting the equivalent of 28 mpg.  Neither of these figures
>beats a good ICE vehicle with the same performance.
>
>To reduce oil use with electric vehicles will require a nuclear based
electrical
>system.  Until that happens we should save fuel by using mass transit (where
>available), efficient ICE (vehicles not inefficient EVs and not SUVs), and by
>cutting wasted travel.


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 00:10:48 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 21:11:32 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Mon, 4 May 1998 19:40:10 -0700, "Robert Harris"
<bob@bobthecomputerguy.com> wrote:

>Properly done, ION can work on everything from a lawnmower to a Multi-staged
>turbo intercooled alcohol fueled road rocket without any basic changes or
>tuning.  It simply must detect the knock related ionization event - which
>incidentally will cause a low voltage dc conduction across the spark gap.
>Simple.  Non computerized, wazoo ized and eminently doable without anything
>even approaching a DSP.

Thas our baby. Ain't she a beaut!? Now if we can just coax her outta the
womb.

There's an interesting comment in the Saab book that this technique is
"even adaptable to different fuel additives", which seems to support
Robert's comment above about Alky.

Go ION!

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 00:11:04 1998
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To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Wayne Blair <wayneb@foxboro.com.au>
Subject: Winmail.dat and Wasted band width
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Hi to all,

Well I've been away for a few days and have just read all the DYI digests.

I would guess that over 50% of the text was some one repeating in full some
one elses message. This can go on for numerous levels.

May I suggest that when replying to a message just include enough to let
people know what you comment is directed to. We all saw the first message
an if we did it will be easier too find if it not repeated so many times.

I regularly have to flush my disk of winmail.dat files but this is less
now, and thanks to who ever finally managed to stop that terrible bunkes of
ascii encoded whatever.

Hope I'm not stomping where I shouldn,t


wayne

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 00:13:22 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 747.ecu
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 00:13:24 -0400
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If some one has had time to start one, I'd appreciate seeing a 
copy (of 747.ecu), this is in reference to the delco edit.  If 
someone has time, that would like to be involved with 101,
that would be a good project.   If someone also had the time 
to do a keystroke by keystroke how to for those of who are
computer challenged it would be an ad to.  
TIA
Bruce   Sun roofs where invented by, I'm told, by yep, a Cone
             Shaped Hat wearer....


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 00:24:07 1998
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From: Anibal Aguirre <anibal.aguirre@roche.com.ar>
To: "'DIY_EFI'" <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: books???
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 01:20:44 -0300
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hi friends:
does anybody know some good books about electronicas fuel injection 
(tune, optimize...etc) aplicated to racings cars???

any reply wiil be pleased.



From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 00:27:35 1998
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Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 00:06:12 -0400
Subject: Re: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
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I remember this thread from a few weeks ago.  I seem to recall someone
mentioning that around 80V DC is put between ground and the end of the
coil opposite the spark output.  That way, the circuitry doesn't have to
withstand the multi-kilovolt spike of the spark.  If that's the case, it
can only be used with a distributerless system.  The gap in the
distributer would leave you with an open circuit.

Is this what you plan on doing, or are you going to come up with a
circuit that will read a few milliamps of current and still withstand the
big zap?

Ray Drouillard


On Mon, 4 May 1998 19:40:10 -0700 "Robert Harris"
<bob@bobthecomputerguy.com> writes:
>The disadvantage of an acoustical knock detector is that it detects the
>"sound" of knocking, i.e. a certain frequency and type of noise that
>unfortunately can be masked or enhanced by physical engine
charactoristics
>(aluminum, iron etc) and change's frequency etc by many factors and the
fact
>that ordinary engine noise has to be filtered out.
>
>The Ionization Knock Detector looks for a specific event in the
combustion
>gasses - the sudden appearance of ionization products after ignition. 
Since
>this mechanism is not heavily engine material, size, fuel, temp, ambient
>noise dependent for determining its characteristics, the detection of
the
>event is straightforward without the need of highly sophisticated self
>anally extracting make TI rich DSP's.   Start with a clean signal and
you
>don't need the hi fangle BS to make the system work - a strange concept
I
>know but once upon a time was considered the way to do things.
>
>Properly done, ION can work on everything from a lawnmower to a
Multi-staged
>turbo intercooled alcohol fueled road rocket without any basic changes
or
>tuning.  It simply must detect the knock related ionization event -
which
>incidentally will cause a low voltage dc conduction across the spark
gap.
>Simple.  Non computerized, wazoo ized and eminently doable without
anything
>even approaching a DSP.

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 00:33:23 1998
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Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 22:11:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Refrigerants
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On Mon, 4 May 1998 15:55:25 +1000 (EST) danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au
(Danny Barrett) writes:
>Hmmmmmm..... I think he's onto me.... (just kidding). As I said
before... It
>has EVERYTHING to do with Fuel Injection (or at least that is a part of
it.
>But I can't really say more than that)....
>
>Danny Barrett.

Awwwwwww Come On!  We all promise not to tell anyone!

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 00:36:36 1998
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Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 22:46:21 -0400
Subject: Re: High MPG
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On Mon, 04 May 1998 14:57:45 -0700 Frederic Breitwieser
<frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com> writes:
>>Ceramic parts which operate without cooling and greater expansion
ratios can
>>reduce this energy wastage.  None of which has anything to do with
pushrods.
>
>Hello Gary,
>
>I didn't mean to imply that the pushrods are the culprit, I was merely
>commenting that the 100 year old design has outlived its practicality,
and
>that new engineering should take place.
>
>
>Frederic Breitwieser
>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>
>Homebrew Automotive Website:
>http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
>
>1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>1989 HMMWV
>2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

I have seen several ideas tried, but none of them seemed to make the big
time.  The otto-cycle engine has also had a hundred years of of
refinement.  The Wankyl, Stirling, and turbine engine simply don't have
all those thousands of hours of research and refinement behind them.  The
auto companies could make a go of it with the other designs, but the cost
of the research would force them to charge a lot for the cars.  So far,
nobody is willing to take that big of a risk.  We'll have to see
something that is clearly superior before the auto manufactures get the
courage to put the research necessary into it.

We could, no doubt, get a Stirling engine to run well enough to power a
car.  The first few would have enough problems to make the owners wish
for a good 'ol gasoline burner that "never gave me any trouble".

Maybe the next major change in engine technology will be a steam turbine
powered by cold fusion.  Just put some coils or magnets around the edge
of the turbine and draw the power off electromagnetically.  Make the
turbine and housing out of ceramic, use magnetic bearings, and just keep
it running all the time to keep the temperature up to operating
temperature.

Anyhow, I fear that I have strayed off subject a tad.  It'll be
interesting to see how many people swear that the whole cold fusion thing
is a hoax, how many believe that it works and has been supressed by the
oil companys, and how many people (such as myself) think that there
simply hasn't been enough clean research to draw a firm conclusion one
way or the other ("I keep telling Orville and Wilbur that powered flight
simply can't work!")

Ray Drouillard

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 00:36:41 1998
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From: cosmic.ray@juno.com (Raymond C Drouillard)
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On Mon, 04 May 1998 09:58:34 -0700 Frederic Breitwieser
<frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com> writes:
>>It seems to me that someone sold an ultrasonic fuel atomizer several
>>years ago.  Has anyone seen one, or even heard of it?  I don't think
I'm
>>imagining things...
>
>Your not imagining it Ray, when Danny first posted his thoughts without
>revealing his "secret" what you suggested popped into my mind also.  I
do
>believe there are ultrasonic FI systems, but I don't think it ever made
it
>to the market.  I'm not entirely sure.
>
>May have been due to the fact that ultrasonic washing machines cost
$1500
>and motor driven "swash bucket" washers cost $250.  Might have been the
>same issue - technology to expensive at this point.
>
>
>Frederic Breitwieser
>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>
>Homebrew Automotive Website:
>http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
>
>1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>1989 HMMWV
>2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

It may simply be ineffective.  After all, ultrasonic humidifiers are
pretty cheap.  I would get one and mount the transducer to my manifold,
but it might cause cracks or vibrate the thing loose or somehting
unfortunate like that.

The ad I saw (many moons ago) showed a couple of rods sitting under the
carburater.

Ray Drouillard

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 00:38:52 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 22:11:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Refrigerants
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From: cosmic.ray@juno.com (Raymond C Drouillard)
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I have never heard of being able to bust a hydrocarbon chain apart with
sound.  If it did happen, you would get smaller molecules instead of
bigger ones.  That would increase the octane.

Anyhow, my idea had nothing to do with chemically changing the gasoline. 
The sound would simply bust up the drops into really small droplets.  If
this was done at normal intake temperatures, the gas would evaporate,
just like the water does with a humidifier.  If you cool the fuel, the
droplets won't evaporate nearly as readily.  They would end up
evaporating when the fuel/air mixture got hot enough to warm up the
droplets.


On Mon, 4 May 1998 16:06:14 +1000 (EST) danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au
(Danny Barrett) writes:
>The fuel atomiser that I heard of actually "cracked" the fuel, but since
>there was no hydrogen present, it only made the molecuels into longer
chain
>polymers(instead of smaller, higher octane molecules). Fuel economy and
>power suffered dramatically (at least to what I had heard). There are
better
>ways of doing this (I know several people who are developing different
types
>of systems).
>It sounds to me as if your idea is nearly to cool the fuel so it won't
>evaporate, and then try to evaporate it, while not really evaporating
it...
>sounds unusual to me...
>
>Danny Barrett.
>
>
>>On Mon, 4 May 1998 04:09:46 +1000 (EST) 
>danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au
>>(Danny Barrett) writes:
>>>Sorry, wrong again...
>>>got nothing to do with an intercooler, in fact nothing to do with 
>the
>>intake
>>>air. Also, nothing to do with cooling the heads, although, I could 
>add
>>it
>>>in, and make the thing work even better.....
>>>
>>>Danny Barrett.
>>
>>Let's see...
>>
>>Cool the gasoline so that it won't vaporize readily.  Inject it into 
>the
>>manifold at that temperature, but hook up one of those ultrasonic
>>transducers that they use in the ultrasonic humidifiers.  That'll 
>atomize
>>it into really small droplets that'll be too cold to readily 
>evaporate. 
>>That'll reduce the volume taken up by the vaporized fuel and allow 
>more
>>air into the engine.
>>
>>It seems to me that someone sold an ultrasonic fuel atomizer several
>>years ago.  Has anyone seen one, or even heard of it?  I don't think 
>I'm
>>imagining things...
>>
>>
>>Ray Drouillard

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From: Jim Velasquez <jim_velasquez@partech.com>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V3 #193
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 22:44:25 -0600
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Hey, folks, who says that future automobiles with INTERNAL combustion
engines can't make use of electric drivetrains and FUEL CELLS?
Supposedly said are in early development, and if some design challenges
are solved, we could be looking at a HIGHLY efficient powerplant that
could still burn gasoline (such a fuel cell DOES exist!).  They output
electricity, heat, and some combustion byproducts...

We would then be doing exotic ELECTRIC motor swaps, so what?
I for one would enjoy fitting such to one of my project cars.


From: "Richard W. Cowan" <gt1040a@prism.gatech.edu>
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 18:07:21 -0400
Subject: Re: High MPG

At 02:24 AM 5/5/98 +1000, you wrote:
>Yes, I agree. In fact, I think that if as much time, effort, and money
was
>put into the development of a turbine engine (like the Chrysler one) as
has
>been put into the engines we currently run, the "200 MPG carb" type
idea
>would be a case of "so what!" In the case of the Chrysler turbine, it
had a
>very ingeneous heat transfer drvice that recycled otherwise wasted heat
from
<snip>

<delurk>
Yes, ICEs are incredibly inefficient, and probably no amount of tweaking
will ever make it as good as electric.  Turbines are excellent compared
to
ICEs but they suck for stop-n-go.  That's why they make great airplane
engines and lousy auto engines. 

This is probably [nc], but IMO the words "automobile" and "efficient"
are
never going to go together until they are all switched to electric
sometime
(before you can say dead oil lobby).  Then we'll have to change the list
from DYIEFI to DYI(more amperage!).  (Of course the electricity to
charge
the batteries will still be generated by coal-burning plants until we
switch to nuclear).  Hopefully by then we will be beyond the days of the
electric-golf-cart-with-a-sloop-rig-for-windy-days.

I had the opportunity to drive the GM EV1 and a Rav4 EV.  The batteries
are
still friggin huge, range sucked, its still expensive, but the power
output
at the wheels was far beyond what I expected.  The future doesn't look
quite so dim anymore.

Sorry for the rambling

Richard BME '96, GA Tech.  Go Jackets!
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~vap1rc

------------------------------

From: "Derek Jewett" <djewett@snowcrest.net>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 16:01:28 -0700
Subject: Re: High MPG

I have a hard time believing electric vehicles will ever replace or even
compliment (on any scale) internal combustion engine powered vehicles.
For
example look at Honda's ZLEV engine, it produces such low emissions it
actually cleans the air in smoggy areas!! (i.e. Los Angeles), and it has
been proven that zero level emissions vehicles or ZLEV's I believe
they're
called, produce less emissions when compared to the emissions produced
to
generate enough electricity to power the same car the same distance,
etc..
So in summary EFI will be around for a long time to come! 

This has been a CARB service message
Derek Jewett - "clean air advocate"
1975 Chevy LUV w/383 small block
carbureted, and lotsa black smoke!

------------------------------

From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 16:40:13 -0700
Subject: Re: High MPG

Chrysler Turbine: 120hp/425ftT-lbs torque


- -----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, May 04, 1998 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: High MPG


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Monday, May 04, 1998 12:55 PM
>Subject: Re: High MPG
>
>
>>Yes, I agree. In fact, I think that if as much time, effort, and money
was
>put into the development of a turbine engine (like the Chrysler one) as
has
>been put into the engines we currently run, the "200 MPG carb" type
idea
>would be a case of "so what!" In the case of the Chrysler turbine, it
had a
>very ingeneous heat transfer drvice that recycled otherwise wasted heat
from
>the exhaust to the intake, thereby making the engine more efficient
(this
is
>a bit more difficult with the IC engine to say the least - basically,
it
has
>to be stored as chemical potential energy within the fuel, and this can
only
>>be done by chemically altering the fuel with an endothermic reaction).
The
>problem that I can see with the heat exchanger is that it didn't
exchange
>enough of the exhaust heat. Obviously, if it exchanged more, with a
greater
>efficiency, the engine would be more efficient - it's basic
thermodynamics,
>and it's even given a name - "Regenerative cycle" ie. recycle waste
heat
>>energy to raise the efficiency of the engine. And guess what... It's
>easiest
>>to do with some sort of turbine. Perhaps someone should revisit the
old
>>Chrisler engine and make the heat exchanger more efficient???
>>
>>Danny Barrett.
>>
>>
>The most impressive moment I had around the Chy Turbine car
>was standing behind it, and the ambient temp rising from 60-70F
>to well over 100, very quickly.  Maybe an over impression of youth
>but it made ya walk away in a hurrry.
>
>Bruce
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Christopher G. Moog" <cgmoog@ibm.net>
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 20:04:57 -0400
Subject: Re: High MPG electic raving

Richard W. Cowan wrote:

> <delurk>
> Yes, ICEs are incredibly inefficient, and probably no amount of
tweaking
> will ever make it as good as electric.  Turbines are excellent
compared to
> ICEs but they suck for stop-n-go.  That's why they make great airplane
> engines and lousy auto engines.

Besides steady power requirements turbines don't size down well.
Clearances
along the edges remain the same size in large units as small so the
small units
are less efficient.  This is while in small power generation (less than
tens of
kW diesel rule).  Also why in trains and ships diesels are still the
most popular
power plant.

> This is probably [nc], but IMO the words "automobile" and "efficient"
are
> never going to go together until they are all switched to electric
sometime
> (before you can say dead oil lobby).  Then we'll have to change the
list
> from DYIEFI to DYI(more amperage!).  (Of course the electricity to
charge
> the batteries will still be generated by coal-burning plants until we
> switch to nuclear).  Hopefully by then we will be beyond the days of
the
> electric-golf-cart-with-a-sloop-rig-for-windy-days.
>
> I had the opportunity to drive the GM EV1 and a Rav4 EV.  The
batteries are
> still friggin huge, range sucked, its still expensive, but the power
output
> at the wheels was far beyond what I expected.  The future doesn't look
> quite so dim anymore.
>
> Sorry for the rambling
>
> Richard BME '96, GA Tech.  Go Jackets!
> http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~vap1rc

  As far as electric goes they use more energy per mile than an
efficient ICE
automobile.  The EV1 uses 248 watt-hrs/mi (measured at the charger)  The
RAV4
uses 412 watt-hrs/mi (again at the charger)  This electricity is
produced at a
fossil fueled plant (the energy used by EVs should be counted against
the
incremental generator not the base plants since they represent a new
load).
These plants need approximately 10,000 btus of fuel to produce 1,000
watt-hour of
energy.  So the EV1 uses the equivalent of 2480 btus to travel a mile.
Since
gasoline has 114,000 btus per gallon the EV1 is getting the equivalent
of 46
mpg.  The RAV4EV is getting the equivalent of 28 mpg.  Neither of these
figures
beats a good ICE vehicle with the same performance.

To reduce oil use with electric vehicles will require a nuclear based
electrical
system.  Until that happens we should save fuel by using mass transit
(where
available), efficient ICE (vehicles not inefficient EVs and not SUVs),
and by
cutting wasted travel.

------------------------------

From: "M&D" <91coupe@bellsouth.net>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 20:17:54 -0400
Subject: Re: High MPG

<Humor>
I, and countless thousands of others, take umbrage to your omission of
the
Wankel rotary engine as an alternative to pushrods. (What we call
boingers).
:)
</Humor>
Seriously though, although the wankel wasn't very efficient to start
with,
Mazda's latest MSP-RE engine puts out like 225HP with 1.3 Liters, and
gets
25 MPG or so. Naturally aspirated. Would that they would go into
production...
Anyway, just wanted to put a slant on things.

Michael Harrington
91coupe@bellsouth.net and http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/downs/4038
91 RX-7 Coupe "Pearl" w/ some mods
88 RX-7 T2 "Beast" sitting in carport :(
N3WJE Technician+ Ham

- -----Original Message-----
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, May 04, 1998 10:58 AM
Subject: High MPG


>>Something you mentioned: I know of Charles Nelson Pogue's "200 MPG
carb."
>>And I know about the chemistry of how it worked, and why its results
were
>>not very reliable (I know more about the chemistry of it than he did
at
the
>>time - but this doesn't take much). Asside from this, Pogue stated in
an
>
>Unfortunately, these kind of devices and technology are basically
bandaids
>to a much greater problem, one of great inefficiency.  A pushrod engine
is
>about as ineffecient as an engine can get, however it does have its
merits.
> I think once engineers start moving away from a 100 year old design,
>things will definately get better mileage wise.  I don't have the URLs
>handy, however there are two such engines that have strayed away from
>pushrods, but replacing the rotating assembly with a giant Cam.  The
cam,
>instead of controlling valve timing, is driven by the pistons, which
are
>configured in a radial fashion.  The one engine that is running (and in
the
>internet), creates very little horsepower, however the torque it
generates
>phenominal as compared to its weight, size, and configuration.
>
>I think pushrod engines waste something in the neighborhood of 80% of
the
>available power in the gasoline.
>
>
>Frederic Breitwieser
>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>
>Homebrew Automotive Website:
>http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
>
>1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>1989 HMMWV
>2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
>
>-
>

------------------------------

From: Paul Tholey <pft101@psu.edu>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 20:50:12 -0400
Subject: Ford MAF

Attn: Ford Guys

        A friend with a 1994 Escort GT, 1.8 twin cam is looking to do
some
minor modifications.  The MAF is the flapper door style.  It has a 7 pin
connector.  We pulled the other style MAF off a plain Escort.  It has a
4
pin connector labled A B C D.  Is there a way to incorporate this less
restictive MAF into the twin cam Escort setup?  I think they both have
the
same output, just concerned about the scaling.
        Anyother tips/advice is appreciated.

Paul Tholey

------------------------------

From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 21:39:19 -0400
Subject: Re: High MPG electic raving

Christopher G. Moog wrote:
> 
> Richard W. Cowan wrote:
> 
> > <delurk>
> > Yes, ICEs are incredibly inefficient, and probably no amount of
tweaking
> > will ever make it as good as electric.  Turbines are excellent
compared to
> > ICEs but they suck for stop-n-go.  That's why they make great
airplane
> > engines and lousy auto engines.
> 
> Besides steady power requirements turbines don't size down well.
Clearances
> along the edges remain the same size in large units as small so the
small units
> are less efficient.  This is while in small power generation (less
than tens of
> kW diesel rule).  Also why in trains and ships diesels are still the
most popular
> power plant.
> 
> > This is probably [nc], but IMO the words "automobile" and
"efficient" are
> > never going to go together until they are all switched to electric
sometime
> > (before you can say dead oil lobby).  Then we'll have to change the
list
> > from DYIEFI to DYI(more amperage!).  (Of course the electricity to
charge
> > the batteries will still be generated by coal-burning plants until
we
> > switch to nuclear).  Hopefully by then we will be beyond the days of
the
> > electric-golf-cart-with-a-sloop-rig-for-windy-days.
> >
> > I had the opportunity to drive the GM EV1 and a Rav4 EV.  The
batteries are
> > still friggin huge, range sucked, its still expensive, but the power
output
> > at the wheels was far beyond what I expected.  The future doesn't
look
> > quite so dim anymore.
> >
> > Sorry for the rambling
> >
> > Richard BME '96, GA Tech.  Go Jackets!
> > http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~vap1rc
> 
>   As far as electric goes they use more energy per mile than an
efficient ICE
> automobile.  The EV1 uses 248 watt-hrs/mi (measured at the charger)
The RAV4
> uses 412 watt-hrs/mi (again at the charger)  This electricity is
produced at a
> fossil fueled plant (the energy used by EVs should be counted against
the
> incremental generator not the base plants since they represent a new
load).
> These plants need approximately 10,000 btus of fuel to produce 1,000
watt-hour of
> energy.  So the EV1 uses the equivalent of 2480 btus to travel a mile.
Since
> gasoline has 114,000 btus per gallon the EV1 is getting the equivalent
of 46
> mpg.  The RAV4EV is getting the equivalent of 28 mpg.  Neither of
these figures
> beats a good ICE vehicle with the same performance.
> 
> To reduce oil use with electric vehicles will require a nuclear based
electrical
> system.  Until that happens we should save fuel by using mass transit
(where
> available), efficient ICE (vehicles not inefficient EVs and not SUVs),
and by
> cutting wasted travel.

In Ontario, we have been running on nuclear energy for many years. The
CANDU is supposed to be the best system out there - and we are shutting
virtually ALL of them down. Problems with maintenance and expense -
Mabee if they privatise the system someone will manage to run it
efficiently, but what about safely? I'm of a mixed mind on the subject.

As for the efficiency arguement, a LARGE turbine is more efficient than
a small one, and constant load helps too. Therfore, a properly designed
oil or NG fired turbine generator can be a lot more efficient than
current designs. Even with generator and transmission losses, the EV of
tomorrow, including power generation, will likely be more efficient and
less poluting on the whole than anything that exists today, and than any
ICE of tomorrow. However, the EV of tomorrow will NOT depend on the grid
for power. Ballard Energy, and others of their ilk, will see to that.
Fuel cells will be the future.
- -- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

------------------------------

From: Steven Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 20:38:22 -0500
Subject: depot boardsRe: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a
diyTrionic?

I have access to a lab materials to remove most any epoxy from
electronic parts. But can't promise if the unit will work but they work
in 99% of the time.Contact me off line if you want this done.

Steve
kb4mxo@mwt.net

garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:

> Hey Maties.
>
> I been keepin this under me hat for a while, but thot I'd spill the
> beans and max out the fun, now that I have a Lab Rat working. Member
> that thread awhile back about using the post-spark ionization current
> to
> detect detonation and misfires? Well, one of our illustrious members,
> whose initials are Jim Crance (golly, I hope he doesn't mind taking a
> bow), who's also a fellow pilot, got aholdOme and said he had a
> slightly
> marginal Trionic Ignition/Ionization unit from Saab that worked fine
> excpet it hickup'd whenever it was in a deep freeze, and would I like
> to
> have a look? Jim's a Saab (& other Euro's) Mech. So I got the thang
> last
> week before last, along with a nice Saab 9000 manual Jim sent along,
> and
> danged if it don't look feasible to diy.
>
> The assembly's epoxy potted, so limits my snooping to watching it fly
> from the outside (just as well), but like I said before, I figure
> ANYTHING that's being mass deployed in the commercial auto market has
> GOT to be diy'able; otherwise anything twitchy/complicated/sensitive
> isn't gonna make it, and Saab's apparently been using this technology
> since '93!! Does this remind you at all of EGOR?
>
> So, here's the plan. Just like before, instead of 'cheating' and
> looking
> inside, we'll use the same approach as on EGOR, and try to LEARN how
> it
> works, with yous guys help, like before. Now, since I'm not a member
> of
> SAE, and I see they want a $100/yr subscription JUST to search their
> Paper's bibliography, I am soliciting help in locating any/all
> articles/info on this system. I can't imagine Saab not touting it
> upon/in-prep-for it's introduction in '93, so there have GOT to be
> some
> interesting/useful papers available. Soooo, any of yous guys with a
> moment and a membership in SAE, could you start the ball rolling by
> doing a search in the SAE Bibliography for any hits on the following
> known good keywords:
>         Saab  AND Trionic, "Ignition Discharge Module", Ionization,
> etc.
>
> The manual Jim sent me says "The Saab Trionic system was introduced in
>
> 1993 on Saab 9000 models fitted with the B234L engine." The manual
> itself if for '96, and assuming they're still using this Trionic stuff
>
> in '98, that means the thang's been deployed for 5 years. That oughta
> be
> enough to convince anyone it works, I would guess. [Saab sells alot of
>
> them Turbo 9000's, don't it? At any rate I sure see alot of them here
> in
> Calif. A fan of the yuppie crowd, ifyaknowadamean.]
>
> Finally, Fair Use allows us the privilege of posting a few of the key
> pages from the manual to wet your appetite, so I'll scan a couple in
> and
> post them up on the FTP site. This could give ole EGOR a definitive
> challenge to his nascent fameNnotoriety. Now he's gonna have
> competition. Sorta like the Red & Yellow MnM bozos. Heh.
>
> Let's get'er rollin, dudes. Cuz this tech sure looks like it beats the
>
> acoustic knock detection schemes by a Swedish mile! And, unless we get
> a
> total firehose of activity on this and begin to overload the list, how
>
> bout you POST your finds instead of sending them to me privately.
> Might
> encourage the beehive effect, and bring everyone interested up to
> speed
> that much faster. [BTW, didy'all know that this gizmo is even used to
> "commute" the spark/injection, by replacing the cam sensor? Yeah, it
> detects which "other" pair of plugs is firing via ionization current,
> and combined with the crank sensor for the "intersecting pair",
> determines which cylinder is at TDC on it's power stroke. Cool, eh?]
>
> Cheers maties; if we pull THIS one off, we'll have to think seriously
> about holding some kinda party or sumpin, eh? Could be fun.
>
> Gar

------------------------------

From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 21:44:27 -0700
Subject: Boingers

>Anyway, just wanted to put a slant on things.

Okay Michael, short and sweet- my apologies for not including the wankel
in
my suggestive list of inefficient antiquated technology :)

<smile>


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

- -

------------------------------

From: "Robert Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 19:40:10 -0700
Subject: RE: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?

The disadvantage of an acoustical knock detector is that it detects the
"sound" of knocking, i.e. a certain frequency and type of noise that
unfortunately can be masked or enhanced by physical engine
charactoristics
(aluminum, iron etc) and change's frequency etc by many factors and the
fact
that ordinary engine noise has to be filtered out.

The Ionization Knock Detector looks for a specific event in the
combustion
gasses - the sudden appearance of ionization products after ignition.
Since
this mechanism is not heavily engine material, size, fuel, temp, ambient
noise dependent for determining its characteristics, the detection of
the
event is straightforward without the need of highly sophisticated self
anally extracting make TI rich DSP's.   Start with a clean signal and
you
don't need the hi fangle BS to make the system work - a strange concept
I
know but once upon a time was considered the way to do things.

Properly done, ION can work on everything from a lawnmower to a
Multi-staged
turbo intercooled alcohol fueled road rocket without any basic changes
or
tuning.  It simply must detect the knock related ionization event -
which
incidentally will cause a low voltage dc conduction across the spark
gap.
Simple.  Non computerized, wazoo ized and eminently doable without
anything
even approaching a DSP.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Don Berry
> Sent: Monday, May 04, 1998 10:12 AM
> To: 'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'
> Subject: RE: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
>
>
> 		Has anyone considered use a DSP (digital signal
processor)
> for acoustic knock detection? I understand that they can actually
operate
> with a negative signal to noise ratio.
>
> 		Don
>
> 		...and no, my Chevy does NOT run Windows!  ;^)
>
>
>
> 		-----Original Message-----
>
> 		snip
>
>
> 		Cuz this tech sure looks like it beats the acoustic
knock
> detection schemes by a Swedish mile!
>

------------------------------

From: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 20:03:18 -0700
Subject: Re: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?

On Mon, 04 May 1998 20:38:22 -0500, Steven Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
wrote:

>I have access to a lab materials to remove most any epoxy from
>electronic parts. But can't promise if the unit will work but they work
>in 99% of the time.Contact me off line if you want this done.
>
>Steve

As I mentioned before, I hope I don't have to resort to this, but I will
look for another unit to maybe sacrifice. How bout you sharing the
methods and materials used?

I hope this is not another secret method. Sigh.

Gar

------------------------------

End of DIY_EFI Digest V3 #193
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 00:47:11 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "Richard W. Cowan" <gt1040a@prism.gatech.edu>
Subject: MPG
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Well this may be an emotional subject for some, but I was not, ahem,
"raving."  To rebut the last post, the EV1 can go 70-90 miles on one charge
of its batteries.  This charge is the equivalent of about 1 gallon of
gasoline.  As I said, once the conversion to all nuclear power plants is
made, this "true efficiency" will be realized.  I expect that once the
batteries are perfected (ie they don't way 1000 pounds!), we will see
electric autos that are just as fun to drive and just as powerful as todays
cars.  We (the people) won't have it any other way!

As far as mass transit goes...that's the only thing that scares me!  I love
cars.  I fully expect future electrics to be just as bad-ass and fun as the
Z28 I plan to buy in the not-too-distant future.  What I fear is that one
day we will rely so much upon mass transit that car production/consumption
will plummet and cause car prices to rise to the point that private
automobiles will be the exclusive privilege of the rich, large companies,
and governments.  Just think one day everyone rode around on horses, now it
is the hobby of the rich.

Richard
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~vaps1rc

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 00:52:01 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: In car oil refinery, run by EFI.
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Just so that the guesses can stop coming in (even though it has been
discovered what I am intending)...

I intend to build an in car "oil refinery." This may sound like a heap of BS
to many, but others have researched the possibility, and found it might be
viable IF it can be controled somehow.

The basic principal behind it is to catalytically crack the fuel molecules,
in the presence of hydrogen, and form methane. This reaction is an
ENDOthermic reaction - ie. it requires energy (in the form of heat) to be
put IN, and thereby, the products of the reaction are at a higher energy
state than the fuel that was put in. Thus, otherwise wasted heat energy is
stored CHEMICALLY, to be used within the engine. Because of this "recycling"
effect, less fuel should be required for the same power output, and hence,
greater efficiency.

The main problem with methane as a fuel (from what I am told) is that it
burns with a lower temperature than gasoline (this means it is more
"explosive" in its reaction, but changes in ignition timing will cure this
problem). Since it burns with a lower temperature, it might not produce
exhaust gases hot enough to keep the catalytic cracking reaction going. This
is where the refrigerants come in.

Everyone knows about heat pumps... They use a little bit of energy to
TRANSFER a large amount of energy from one place to another. This is how a
home heat pump can have an efficiency of say 110% - The energy it TRANSFERS
is FAR GREATER than the energy it uses. For those who can't grasp this -
consider a fuel pump on an engine. It uses a small amount of energy, but it
pumps fuel, which has a very large amount of energy stored in it
(chemically). The heat pump is just the same. Also, a heat pump can take
heat energy from a cold place, and put it into a warm place, making the cold
place colder, and the warm place warmer. This is how you can sit in your
cosy room at 30 deg C, when it is 0 deg C outside, simply by using a heat pump.

How does the heat pump apply to the fuel system? Remember I said that the
exhaust gases of the methane powered engine may be too cold to keep the
reaction going? I intend to use a heat pump (using a little bit of energy)
to TRANSFER a very large amount of energy from the exhaust (making it yet
cooler), to the little oil refinery mounted on the engine (keeping it at the
desired temperature). Hence, I have stipulated the refrigerant to be able to
cope with temperatures of (at least) between 20 deg C, and 500 to 600 deg C.
In actual fact, it would be better if it were to work at a larger temp
range. This is also why I said that some kind of head cooling system would
help my little project, although it isn't my project, per-say. However, I
had thought of it before. If all of the wasted heat could be collected from
the oil, the coolant system, and the exhaust (bearing in mind that both the
coolant system, and the oil should be kept at their most efficient
temperatures), then the system should (not saying it will) be more efficient
still. In fact, it might be possible for such a system to replace the
radiator, and recirculate the energy, instead of throwing it away by
increasing the ambient air temperature.

However, such a system would have a maximum efficiency, where the attempt to
recycle any more energy would result in the system using more extra energy
than it gains. I do not know where this point is, but I would like to find out.

As for where EFI fits in, obviously, an EFI system can meter just the right
amount of fuel (and water that is thermally cracked, and electrostatically
separated into H(+) and O(2-) ions, then made into H2 and O2 inseparate
chambers) needed more accurately than any carburettor will ever be able to.
Also, it may be possible to have another EFI computer controling the heat
pump, so that the little oil refinery can stay at its most efficient
temperature.

Any comments/ideas???

Danny Barrett.


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In a message dated 98-05-05 00:23:41 EDT, you write:

<< Sun roofs where invented by, I'm told, by yep, a Cone
              Shaped Hat wearer.... >>

Good one for a chuckle..

Thanks,
 Mike V

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 01:04:34 1998
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Date: Mon, 4 May 1998 22:12:32 -0400
Subject: Re: High MPG
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Gee, I wonder if that thing will fit under the hood of my Jeep Grand
Wagoneer.  4000 to 5000 KW is around 5500 to 6800 HP.  A little
overpowered, I guess.  I don't think my transfer case, driveshafts, and
axles would be able to handle it :)

Ray Drouillard


On Mon, 4 May 1998 11:37:13 -0700 Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
writes:
>Solar Turbines, which is a unit of Caterpillar, has just launched a 4000
- 
>5000 kW machine that uses recuperation (or regenertaion, take your pick)
to 
>pick up some 10% in efficiency.  Now 40% simple-cycle vs. 30%
previously. 
> Recuperation is not new certainly, but Solar may be the first to re 
>arrange components to more logically package the recuperator (the inlet
and 
>exhaust are located at the center of the engine.)
>
>Mike J.
>
>>>Danny Barrett wrote:
>
>Yes, I agree. In fact, I think that if as much time, effort, and money 
>was
>put into the development of a turbine engine (like the Chrysler one) 
>as has
>been put into the engines we currently run, the "200 MPG carb" type 
>idea
>would be a case of "so what!" In the case of the Chrysler turbine, it 
>had a
>very ingeneous heat transfer drvice that recycled otherwise wasted 
>heat 
>from the exhaust to the intake, thereby making the engine more 
>efficient 
>(this is a bit more difficult with the IC engine to say the least - 
>basically, it has to be stored as chemical potential energy within the 
>
>fuel, and this can only
>be done by chemically altering the fuel with an endothermic reaction). 
>The
>problem that I can see with the heat exchanger is that it didn't 
>exchange
>enough of the exhaust heat. Obviously, if it exchanged more, with a 
>greater
>efficiency, the engine would be more efficient - it's basic 
>thermodynamics,
>and it's even given a name - "Regenerative cycle" ie. recycle waste 
>heat
>energy to raise the efficiency of the engine. And guess what... It's 
>easiest
>to do with some sort of turbine. Perhaps someone should revisit the 
>old
>Chrisler engine and make the heat exchanger more efficient???
>
>Danny Barrett.>>
>
>
>
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>M<.<$(":R=?)S:%1C*B(`D/LU- ;P9 J%3;$$`$X"3*7?20,E$GR/+9%DBS^<
>MH$'\_3W;+FV?'* \"&]507]"'U]#+!+R1$T*A1A1`*6P```#`! 0``````,`
>M$1 #````0 `',.!U.)R*=[T!0 `(,.!U.)R*=[T!'@`]``$````%````4D4Z
>/( `````#``TT_3<``/$F
>`
>end
>
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 01:07:14 1998
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Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 01:07:11 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "Richard W. Cowan" <gt1040a@prism.gatech.edu>
Subject: Re: High MPG electic raving
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At 02:09 PM 5/5/98 +1000, you wrote:
>Hmmm.... Sounds like we're stuck with the ICE. I don't really like the idea
>of having a nuclear reactor in the car...

NO.  I was referring to the power plants that produce the electricity that
goes to your house that charges your car's battery in your garage.  When
_they_ are all nuclear....

Richard
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~vaps1rc

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 01:10:45 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 22:11:30 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Tue, 5 May 1998 00:06:12 -0400, cosmic.ray@juno.com (Raymond C
Drouillard) wrote:

>I remember this thread from a few weeks ago.  I seem to recall someone
>mentioning that around 80V DC is put between ground and the end of the
>coil opposite the spark output.  That way, the circuitry doesn't have to
>withstand the multi-kilovolt spike of the spark.

Uh, actually, I'm not quite sure I totally believe the block diagram in
the Saab book, but it shows the 80V source FLOATING on TOP of the HV
secondary, not between gnd and the spark gap. FWIW. With a little
research I should be able to get to the bottom of this seeming oddity,
but you're right about the issue of "withstanding" the HV if it does
indeed sit on the HV secondary. Ah, what is life without a few
mysteries.

>If that's the case, it
>can only be used with a distributerless system.  The gap in the
>distributer would leave you with an open circuit.

Yes, I think you're right, this technique is probably only suitable for
direct IGN systems. But that ain't so bad. Lots of nice small per-plug
coils available. We really WON'T know what the actual limitations are
until we get the articles together and some of us start looking into it
further. That's just part of the fun.

>Is this what you plan on doing, or are you going to come up with a
>circuit that will read a few milliamps of current and still withstand the
>big zap?

I'm figuring to tap into the research already done, and apply it, not
get into any new basic technology meself. I'm more a development
engineer than a researcher. At this point, the only system of this kind
that I know of that's been deployed in the field is the Saab stuff,
which IS direct per-plug IGN, so if that's all that's possible using
this technique, I consider the benefits EASILY worth the slight eXtra
effort to build the direct IGN system it needs to live with. That part's
pretty much a no-brainer. Besides, I'm an admirer of per-plug IGN,
anyways, so I won't need my arm twisted much by ION to make me go in
that direction.

An interesting little sidebar:

The Saab system starts up in a bootstrap fashion, firing pairs of plugs
and injectors at first, to get the engine started and the Ionization
circuitry up and running, since until that's up, all it has is a crank
sensor. Then once it's getting pulses from the Ionization detectors, it
switches to full sequential on both IGN and INJ. Neat, huh? It also does
some cool oddsNends kinda stuff at startup and shutdown, like
multi-sparking during cranking, and then when you shut the engine down,
after fuel delivery is shut off, it sparks the plugs a pile of times to
clean them off. Clever them Swedes. Actually a better word would be
"elegant". There is something very elegant and alluring about the whole
design; that's one of the reasons I thot ION should be refered to as a
"she", unlike that EGOR dude. He's got some interesting tricks, but he's
more of a meatNpotatoes kinda guy. Not this ION lady; she's very slinky.

Garfield the Anthropomorphite


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 01:16:32 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: In car oil refinery, run by EFI.
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 22:17:16 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Tue, 5 May 1998 14:51:58 +1000 (EST), danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au
(Danny Barrett) wrote:

>I intend to build an in car "oil refinery."
>...
>The basic principal behind it is to catalytically crack the fuel molecules,

Whataminuto, dude. YOu meanta say you're gonna be makin CRACK in your
car's engine? WHOA, you're right, when the DEA finds out about this, you
really WILL be seeing some eXothermic reactions outta them.

B)

Gar (I couldn't help meself; my funnybone made me do it)


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 01:39:05 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: The Decline and Fall of DIY-EFI
Date: Mon, 04 May 1998 22:39:47 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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Catchy, eh? Maybe could build a rap song around that subject line. Heh.

hey, is it just ME, or is this group goin down hill fast. All I see in
my future is nuclear waste dumps from all this electric car stuff, OR
it's drivin around our own personal Oil Refinery with CRACK comin outta
the engine. Man what a bleak future is ahead!

Oh well, not to worry, I'm not planning to live that long. But think of
the children.

B)

Garfarkle

P.S. I'm actin kinda goofy, cuz I just signed the papers today for my
early retirement golden parachute deal, and am feelin kinda giddy as I'm
about to become a truly free man. Plannin on takin the whole summer off,
playing with my airplanes, engines, EGOR and ION. Life is GOOD.


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 02:12:13 1998
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>I hayou would get smaller molecules instead of
>bigger ones.  That would increase the octane.

Not so - the previously branched molecules link together, since there are no
hydorgens to link with them. This produces longer molecules than we had
before, so lower octane. In any sort of "refining" (ie. making smaller
molecules, and also branched/cyclical ones), hydrogen is almost invariably
present in the process to prevent larger molecules from being formed.


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 02:17:49 1998
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Message-ID: <01BD7840.89E57BC0.dzorde@soanar.com.au>
From: Dan Zorde <dzorde@soanar.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: MPG
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 16:11:53 +0800
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Yeah, but imagine having to try and transplant an electric motor into your Z28 
because petrol is no longer available.  I like the shape of the older cars and 
dread the day we can no longer keep them running on the roads.  Anyway, imagine 
how bored we would all be, how do you fiddle with an electric car ?  Everything 
would already be fully optimized from the manufacturer.

Dan	dzorde@soanar.com.au

-----Original Message-----
From:	Richard W. Cowan [SMTP:gt1040a@prism.gatech.edu]
Sent:	Tuesday, 05 May, 1998 12:13 PM
To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:	MPG

As far as mass transit goes...that's the only thing that scares me!  I love
cars.  I fully expect future electrics to be just as bad-ass and fun as the
Z28 I plan to buy in the not-too-distant future.  What I fear is that one
day we will rely so much upon mass transit that car production/consumption
will plummet and cause car prices to rise to the point that private
automobiles will be the exclusive privilege of the rich, large companies,
and governments.  Just think one day everyone rode around on horses, now it
is the hobby of the rich.

Richard
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~vaps1rc


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 02:29:27 1998
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Subject: Re: In car oil refinery, run by EFI.
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Har-de-har-de-har! Good one mate. I never thought of turning my car into an
ilicit drugs factory... I see we've got a funny one here (not that I can
talk...).    :-)


>On Tue, 5 May 1998 14:51:58 +1000 (EST), danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au
>(Danny Barrett) wrote:
>
>>I intend to build an in car "oil refinery."
>>...
>>The basic principal behind it is to catalytically crack the fuel molecules,
>
>Whataminuto, dude. YOu meanta say you're gonna be makin CRACK in your
>car's engine? WHOA, you're right, when the DEA finds out about this, you
>really WILL be seeing some eXothermic reactions outta them.
>
>B)
>
>Gar (I couldn't help meself; my funnybone made me do it)
>
>
>


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Subject: Re: The Decline and Fall of DIY-EFI
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You really DID hit your funny bone, didn't you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


>Catchy, eh? Maybe could build a rap song around that subject line. Heh.
>
>hey, is it just ME, or is this group goin down hill fast. All I see in
>my future is nuclear waste dumps from all this electric car stuff, OR
>it's drivin around our own personal Oil Refinery with CRACK comin outta
>the engine. Man what a bleak future is ahead!
>
>Oh well, not to worry, I'm not planning to live that long. But think of
>the children.
>
>B)
>
>Garfarkle
>
>P.S. I'm actin kinda goofy, cuz I just signed the papers today for my
>early retirement golden parachute deal, and am feelin kinda giddy as I'm
>about to become a truly free man. Plannin on takin the whole summer off,
>playing with my airplanes, engines, EGOR and ION. Life is GOOD.
>
>
>


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Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

Check this site out and links for the "Truth" of ammonia

http://www.bdf2001.com/articles/nh3.html

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Dan Zorde
> Sent: Monday, May 04, 1998 10:59 PM
> To: 'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'
> Subject: RE: Refrigerants, Wide range EGO and other thoughts.
>
>
> Just place a Hazchem sticker on your car, and hope you don't have
> an accident.
>  I'm sure the EPA would have a few things to say after a gallon or so of
> ammonium have spilt all over the road and knocked out any nearby
> witnesses.
>  Would look spectacular but.
>



From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 02:44:46 1998
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From: "Dave Balfour" <balfour@bushnell.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: electric cars - costs
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 01:44:56 -0500
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well if it takes 28 hp to accellerate and run down the road that
means that it takes 20 kw of power say you drive for an hour each day
that is 20kw hours. assuming 40% effiency that means that it takes 50
kwh of energy from the grid. that is about 7dollars around here. now
once you figure in the tax that needs to be imposed to offset the tax
loss for not having the gas tax to pay for roads etc. that would add
another dollar. so it is 8 dollars. If there are a lot of people
using electricity the price will go up so add another buck and we are
up to 9 dollars That doesnt compare well to the 2 or 3 gallons of
gas. Add in the price of new batteries every 2-3 years ouch. At some
point when gas becomes 3-4 dollars per gallon then it begins to make
sense but not until.
dave balfour
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard W. Cowan <gt1040a@prism.gatech.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, May 05, 1998 12:48 AM
Subject: MPG


>Well this may be an emotional subject for some, but I was not, ahem,
>"raving."  To rebut the last post, the EV1 can go 70-90 miles on one
charge
>of its batteries.  This charge is the equivalent of about 1 gallon
of
>gasoline.  As I said, once the conversion to all nuclear power
plants is
>made, this "true efficiency" will be realized.  I expect that once
the
>batteries are perfected (ie they don't way 1000 pounds!), we will
see
>electric autos that are just as fun to drive and just as powerful as
todays
>cars.  We (the people) won't have it any other way!
>
>As far as mass transit goes...that's the only thing that scares me!
I love
>cars.  I fully expect future electrics to be just as bad-ass and fun
as the
>Z28 I plan to buy in the not-too-distant future.  What I fear is
that one
>day we will rely so much upon mass transit that car
production/consumption
>will plummet and cause car prices to rise to the point that private
>automobiles will be the exclusive privilege of the rich, large
companies,
>and governments.  Just think one day everyone rode around on horses,
now it
>is the hobby of the rich.
>
>Richard
>http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~vaps1rc
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 02:52:54 1998
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Subject: Re: In car oil refinery, run by EFI.
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 02:56:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <199805050451.OAA10705@corinna.its.utas.edu.au> from "Danny Barrett" at May 5, 98 02:51:58 pm
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> 
> Just so that the guesses can stop coming in (even though it has been
> discovered what I am intending)...
> 
> I intend to build an in car "oil refinery." This may sound like a heap of BS
> to many, but others have researched the possibility, and found it might be
> viable IF it can be controled somehow.

why crack petroleum
there may be another porduct that when cracked produces more useful
energy from the cracking process
CO2 could produce
O2, methane and watse water ( and would be available in the ex)
NH4 could produce H2 and N2O
H2O can produce H2 and O2
Alcohols can produce a variety of compounds

there has to be tons more

Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 03:01:56 1998
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Subject: Re: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 03:05:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <355880c0.10772015@santaclara01.pop.internex.net> from "garfield@pilgrimhouse.com" at May 4, 98 08:03:18 pm
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a lot of epoxys trun into a gooey jellified mess if exposed to
high levels of UV light

Clive 
> 
> >I have access to a lab materials to remove most any epoxy from
> >electronic parts. But can't promise if the unit will work but they work
> >in 99% of the time.Contact me off line if you want this done.
> >
> >Steve
> 
> As I mentioned before, I hope I don't have to resort to this, but I will
> look for another unit to maybe sacrifice. How bout you sharing the
> methods and materials used?
> 
> I hope this is not another secret method. Sigh.
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 03:08:33 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: electric cars - costs
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 00:06:52 -0700
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I always saw it this way...

I can go further on a battery full of gas than a battery full of
electricity. Until it is the other way  around......


-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Balfour <balfour@bushnell.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, May 05, 1998 12:06 AM
Subject: electric cars - costs


>well if it takes 28 hp to accellerate and run down the road that
>means that it takes 20 kw of power say you drive for an hour each day
>that is 20kw hours. assuming 40% effiency that means that it takes 50
>kwh of energy from the grid. that is about 7dollars around here. now
>once you figure in the tax that needs to be imposed to offset the tax
>loss for not having the gas tax to pay for roads etc. that would add
>another dollar. so it is 8 dollars. If there are a lot of people
>using electricity the price will go up so add another buck and we are
>up to 9 dollars That doesnt compare well to the 2 or 3 gallons of
>gas. Add in the price of new batteries every 2-3 years ouch. At some
>point when gas becomes 3-4 dollars per gallon then it begins to make
>sense but not until.
>dave balfour
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Richard W. Cowan <gt1040a@prism.gatech.edu>
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
><diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>Date: Tuesday, May 05, 1998 12:48 AM
>Subject: MPG
>
>
>>Well this may be an emotional subject for some, but I was not, ahem,
>>"raving."  To rebut the last post, the EV1 can go 70-90 miles on one
>charge
>>of its batteries.  This charge is the equivalent of about 1 gallon
>of
>>gasoline.  As I said, once the conversion to all nuclear power
>plants is
>>made, this "true efficiency" will be realized.  I expect that once
>the
>>batteries are perfected (ie they don't way 1000 pounds!), we will
>see
>>electric autos that are just as fun to drive and just as powerful as
>todays
>>cars.  We (the people) won't have it any other way!
>>
>>As far as mass transit goes...that's the only thing that scares me!
>I love
>>cars.  I fully expect future electrics to be just as bad-ass and fun
>as the
>>Z28 I plan to buy in the not-too-distant future.  What I fear is
>that one
>>day we will rely so much upon mass transit that car
>production/consumption
>>will plummet and cause car prices to rise to the point that private
>>automobiles will be the exclusive privilege of the rich, large
>companies,
>>and governments.  Just think one day everyone rode around on horses,
>now it
>>is the hobby of the rich.
>>
>>Richard
>>http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~vaps1rc
>>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 03:15:37 1998
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Subject: Re: MPG
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 03:18:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <01BD7840.89E57BC0.dzorde@soanar.com.au> from "Dan Zorde" at May 5, 98 04:11:53 pm
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> 
> As far as mass transit goes...that's the only thing that scares me!  I love
> cars.  I fully expect future electrics to be just as bad-ass and fun as the
> Z28 I plan to buy in the not-too-distant future.  What I fear is that one
> day we will rely so much upon mass transit that car production/consumption
> will plummet and cause car prices to rise to the point that private
> automobiles will be the exclusive privilege of the rich, large companies,
> and governments.  Just think one day everyone rode around on horses, now it
> is the hobby of the rich.


this is easy
install larger volatge conversion drivers and a more powerful motor
reprogram the time slice divider and away you go
double your power very easily 

Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 03:51:20 1998
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Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 01:37:50 -0600
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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David wrote:
> 
> Shannon,
> 
> It is self service.
> 
> You have to go and see what they have.  It is located about 6 miles east of
> downtown St. Louis, MO.
> 
> I can provide the exact address and phone number if that helps you.
> 
> David
>snip<

Umm... thanks, but the fuel bill to get there would eat up
the savings.  It's about 1292 miles.  then again, if I'm in
the area I'll let you know. : )

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 04:46:34 1998
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From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Boingers
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I am amazed that someone who is obviously not stupid should bad mouth
the wankle rotary engine.. It is quite simply the proper design for an
engine.  Yea alright the design is flawed due to the problem with the
seals wearing, but in this day and age with ceramic technology there
must be a way to make this problem go away.  I have always wanted a car
engine that revs to 14,000 rpm with good efficiency.

But thats my problem

Rob Humphris

>----------
>From: 	Frederic Breitwieser[SMTP:frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com]
>Sent: 	05 May 1998 05:44
>To: 	diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject: 	Boingers
>
>>Anyway, just wanted to put a slant on things.
>
>Okay Michael, short and sweet- my apologies for not including the wankel in
>my suggestive list of inefficient antiquated technology :)
>
><smile>
>
>
>Frederic Breitwieser
>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>
>Homebrew Automotive Website:
>http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
>
>1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>1989 HMMWV
>2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
>
>-
>

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 05:10:42 1998
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Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 02:57:14 -0600
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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Danny Barrett wrote:

> I intend to build an in car "oil refinery." This may sound like a heap of BS
> to many, but others have researched the possibility, and found it might be
> viable IF it can be controled somehow.
> 
> The basic principal behind it is to catalytically crack the fuel molecules,
> in the presence of hydrogen, and form methane. This reaction is an
> ENDOthermic reaction - ie. it requires energy (in the form of heat) to be
> put IN, and thereby, the products of the reaction are at a higher energy
> state than the fuel that was put in. Thus, otherwise wasted heat energy is
> stored CHEMICALLY, to be used within the engine. Because of this "recycling"
> effect, less fuel should be required for the same power output, and hence,
> greater efficiency.
> 
>
>
> Any comments/ideas???
> 
> Danny Barrett.

Realizing that it's the phase changes of the refrigerant
which "move" energy, I got to wondering today how much heat
could be transferred by mercury?  What's the boiling point
of this metal?  And would thermal conductivity be an
approprate term to use here?

Shannen

Volunteer for community service!  Use your CSH to collect
donations for the poor.

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 05:35:05 1998
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From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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Richard W. Cowan wrote:
> 
> Well this may be an emotional subject for some, but I was not, ahem,
> "raving."  To rebut the last post, the EV1 can go 70-90 miles on one charge
> of its batteries.  This charge is the equivalent of about 1 gallon of
> gasoline.  As I said, once the conversion to all nuclear power plants is
> made, this "true efficiency" will be realized.  I expect that once the
> batteries are perfected (ie they don't way 1000 pounds!), we will see
> electric autos that are just as fun to drive and just as powerful as todays
> cars.  We (the people) won't have it any other way!
> 
> As far as mass transit goes...that's the only thing that scares me!  I love
> cars.  I fully expect future electrics to be just as bad-ass and fun as the
> Z28 I plan to buy in the not-too-distant future.  What I fear is that one
> day we will rely so much upon mass transit that car production/consumption
> will plummet and cause car prices to rise to the point that private
> automobiles will be the exclusive privilege of the rich, large companies,
> and governments.  Just think one day everyone rode around on horses, now it
> is the hobby of the rich.
> 
> Richard
> http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~vaps1rc


Uh-huh.  I'm 50mi from the next town.  People around here
travel 70 mi one way to have work done on their car.  Mass
transit is packing four people into the same pickup.  If you
ranch cattle, you raise and ride horses to work your stock. 
Electric vehicles have a very limited use in this area.

I don't think you will have to fear the loss of personal
transportation or the death of the ICE anytime soon.  It
wasn't that many years ago that synthetic oils were exotic
and unreliable.  Now production vehicles are equipped with
them.  There are plenty of alternative fuel options now, and
there will be more as oil supplies decline.  If my
grandmother can adapt enough to use a computer, we can
certainly adapt enough to burn alternative fuels in our
autos.

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 05:42:07 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: In car oil refinery, run by EFI.
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I assume you mean to crack the CO2 (etc.) at home and put it in the car -
may be possible, but storage within the car could be a problem.

If you mean to crack the CO2 in the car, then, since you're starting with
CO2 as your "fuel" (lowest energy level possible for carbon in the
combustion process), and you're ending up with CO2, there is no net energy
input (unless you are burning N2 - naughty, naughty), then there is no
energy left to run the vehicle. In actual fact, when you include losses (and
there will be), then all that is going to happen is your car will sit there
and do nothing... HEY! GREAT IDEA!!! Don't use the car, and you save a
packet on fuel bills!!!

As for petroleum, it is at a relatively high energy level, so there is
something there to work from...

In my device, I know that there is going to be a slight loss of energy
because I have to crack water, and then in the engine, make it again - ie.
no net gain, only losses because of inefficiencies. HOWEVER, cracking the
water makes it possible to leave the hydrocarbons in a stable form, once
cracked, and THIS is where the efficiency gains are to be seen. With this,
it is like losing 3 units (through inefficiencies in the cracking process),
and gaining 10 units because you've given up the 3 - ie a net gain of 7
units. Of course, these are arbitrary numbers, but you can see what I mean.

As for the viability of in caar cracking of NH4, instead of hydrocarbons,
I'll have to look up the energy levels of NH4, H2 and N2O, respectively to
see if it is viable. What can we get NH4 from? However, the problem with
this stuff is that the polution levels are too high. The car would be
pumping out practically pure photochemical smog. This might be OK on the
race track, but not in everyday driving, where I intend to use my device.

Alcohols are possible, but the bigger ones would be preferable (ie.
propanol, octanol, etc), as the smaller ones would not give that much of an
increase in energy when cracked.

>why crack petroleum
>there may be another porduct that when cracked produces more useful
>energy from the cracking process
>CO2 could produce
>O2, methane and watse water ( and would be available in the ex)
>NH4 could produce H2 and N2O
>H2O can produce H2 and O2
>Alcohols can produce a variety of compounds


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 05:50:49 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: MPG
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Not like that... You're CREATING energy there (either that or using the
batteries up in half the time).

Remember, P=EI
Power = Voltage times Current.

If your Voltage goes up, your current will go down for the same power. If
you double the power, you halve the life of the battery.

If you have a voltage conversion driver, and the voltage out is twice the
voltage in, then the current out is HALF the current in - same power, not
double. Nice try though. Also, if you don't believe me, I don't mind, but
don't try to argue about it (just a warning). In my first and second years
in my engineering degree, I was taught enough about electricity to know
better than that.


>this is easy
>install larger volatge conversion drivers and a more powerful motor
>reprogram the time slice divider and away you go
>double your power very easily 
>
>Clive 
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 05:55:12 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: RE: Boingers
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I don't blame you! Who wouldn't want an engine which can rev up to 14000 RPM
safely, with good efficiency (with the possible exception of oil co's for
the decrease in oil used).


>I am amazed that someone who is obviously not stupid should bad mouth
>the wankle rotary engine.. It is quite simply the proper design for an
>engine.  Yea alright the design is flawed due to the problem with the
>seals wearing, but in this day and age with ceramic technology there
>must be a way to make this problem go away.  I have always wanted a car
>engine that revs to 14,000 rpm with good efficiency.
>
>But thats my problem
>
>Rob Humphris
>
>>----------
>>From: 	Frederic Breitwieser[SMTP:frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com]
>>Sent: 	05 May 1998 05:44
>>To: 	diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
>>Subject: 	Boingers
>>
>>>Anyway, just wanted to put a slant on things.
>>
>>Okay Michael, short and sweet- my apologies for not including the wankel in
>>my suggestive list of inefficient antiquated technology :)
>>
>><smile>
>>
>>
>>Frederic Breitwieser
>>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>>
>>Homebrew Automotive Website:
>>http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
>>
>>1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>>1989 HMMWV
>>2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
>>
>>-
>>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 06:19:39 1998
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From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: In car oil refinery, run by EFI.
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 11:16:16 +0100
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>From what seemed like a list dealing with real and tangible automotive
subjects, only occasionally dipping into the hypothetical 'what-ifs' of
future developments and theorectical ideas, I now find my mail box full
of the rantings of lunatics...  When will we move onto the subjects of
magnetic levitation? or how about perpetual motion, better still time
travel?

For Bobs sake get a grip on reality.  There are still openings for fuel
scientists to work on Cold fusion reactors, these are theoretically
possible.

In car oil refinery... will you sell diesel as you drive along?  Hey you
could have an in car injection molding facility in the boot, and produce
plastic dinosaurs that you could give away free with each gallon of
avaiation fuel that you sell.

Rob Humphris


>----------
>From: 	Shannen Durphey[SMTP:shannen@mcn.net]
>Sent: 	05 May 1998 09:57
>To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject: 	Re: In car oil refinery, run by EFI.
>
>Danny Barrett wrote:
>
>> I intend to build an in car "oil refinery." This may sound like a heap of
>>BS
>> to many, but others have researched the possibility, and found it might be
>> viable IF it can be controled somehow.
>> 
>> The basic principal behind it is to catalytically crack the fuel molecules,
>> in the presence of hydrogen, and form methane. This reaction is an
>> ENDOthermic reaction - ie. it requires energy (in the form of heat) to be
>> put IN, and thereby, the products of the reaction are at a higher energy
>> state than the fuel that was put in. Thus, otherwise wasted heat energy is
>> stored CHEMICALLY, to be used within the engine. Because of this
>>"recycling"
>> effect, less fuel should be required for the same power output, and hence,
>> greater efficiency.
>> 
>>
>>
>> Any comments/ideas???
>> 
>> Danny Barrett.
>
>Realizing that it's the phase changes of the refrigerant
>which "move" energy, I got to wondering today how much heat
>could be transferred by mercury?  What's the boiling point
>of this metal?  And would thermal conductivity be an
>approprate term to use here?
>
>Shannen
>
>Volunteer for community service!  Use your CSH to collect
>donations for the poor.
>

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 06:40:32 1998
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Subject: Re: In car oil refinery, run by EFI.
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It all depends on the pressure inside the tubes where the mercury is.
Bsaically, it's the age old design problem of having to make an assumption
first, do the calculations, and then redesign, then calculate again,
redesign, etc.... until the calculations no longer change the design.

One VERY important point here is that Aluminum (Aluminium for us Aussies)
should not be in contact with mercury, especially if it is in the vapor
form, as mercury eats Alum's protective oxide layer, and corrodes the Alum
VERY quickly, causing a Mercury leak - not good fun!!!

>Realizing that it's the phase changes of the refrigerant
>which "move" energy, I got to wondering today how much heat
>could be transferred by mercury?  What's the boiling point
>of this metal?  And would thermal conductivity be an
>approprate term to use here?
>
>Shannen
>
>Volunteer for community service!  Use your CSH to collect
>donations for the poor.
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 08:02:00 1998
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cyberdrive.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: High MPG
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 07:58:04 -0400
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>At 02:24 AM 5/5/98 +1000, you wrote:
>>Yes, I agree. In fact, I think that if as much time, effort, and money was
>>put into the development of a turbine engine (like the Chrysler one) as
has
>>been put into the engines we currently run, the "200 MPG carb" type idea
>>would be a case of "so what!" In the case of the Chrysler turbine, it had
a
>>very ingeneous heat transfer drvice that recycled otherwise wasted heat
from

><snip>
Richard Cowan wrote:
>Yes, ICEs are incredibly inefficient, and probably no amount of tweaking
>will ever make it as good as electric.  Turbines are excellent compared to
>ICEs but they suck for stop-n-go.  That's why they make great airplane
>engines and lousy auto engines.


Turbines are not that efficient, gas or steam, because high expansion
temperatures will melt down the turbine blades.  ICE's are better because
their expansion is intermittent and can occur at high temperatures.
Unfortunately the lose out when throttled back.

Electric is not very efficient if you consider the total scheme.  The
electric generators are no more efficient than the good old ICE (40%).  Then
you add the power loss in transmission, converting to chemical energy for
the battery, then reconverting to electric, then finally getting mechanical
energy from the motor.  Add this up and the electric car is only 5%
efficient.  A GM EV1 with a gasoline engine would get 80+ mpg.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>



From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 08:14:21 1998
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The thermodynamics of Sterling, Wankle, turbine are all governed by the same
laws.  Low temperature compression, high temperature expansion.  This is
what drives efficiency.  These alternatives all have their place in the
world but none of them offer an increase in efficiency.

In my opinion, the best currently available technology is a hybrid vehicle:
electric drive, small battery for acceleration, small diesel to generate the
average power needed and regenerative braking.  Toyota even builds one for
sale, but with gasoline at $1 a gallon, its just not worth it.
Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

From: Raymond C Drouillard <cosmic.ray@juno.com>

>On Mon, 04 May 1998 14:57:45 -0700 Frederic Breitwieser
><frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com> writes:
>>>Ceramic parts which operate without cooling and greater expansion
>ratios can
>>>reduce this energy wastage.  None of which has anything to do with
>pushrods.
>>
>>Hello Gary,
>>
>>I didn't mean to imply that the pushrods are the culprit, I was merely
>>commenting that the 100 year old design has outlived its practicality,
>and
>>that new engineering should take place.
>>
>>
>>Frederic Breitwieser
>>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>>
>>Homebrew Automotive Website:
>>http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
>>
>>1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>>1989 HMMWV
>>2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
>
>I have seen several ideas tried, but none of them seemed to make the big
>time.  The otto-cycle engine has also had a hundred years of of
>refinement.  The Wankyl, Stirling, and turbine engine simply don't have
>all those thousands of hours of research and refinement behind them.  The
>auto companies could make a go of it with the other designs, but the cost
>of the research would force them to charge a lot for the cars.  So far,
>nobody is willing to take that big of a risk.  We'll have to see
>something that is clearly superior before the auto manufactures get the
>courage to put the research necessary into it.
>
>We could, no doubt, get a Stirling engine to run well enough to power a
>car.  The first few would have enough problems to make the owners wish
>for a good 'ol gasoline burner that "never gave me any trouble".
>
>Maybe the next major change in engine technology will be a steam turbine
>powered by cold fusion.  Just put some coils or magnets around the edge
>of the turbine and draw the power off electromagnetically.  Make the
>turbine and housing out of ceramic, use magnetic bearings, and just keep
>it running all the time to keep the temperature up to operating
>temperature.
>
>Anyhow, I fear that I have strayed off subject a tad.  It'll be
>interesting to see how many people swear that the whole cold fusion thing
>is a hoax, how many believe that it works and has been supressed by the
>oil companys, and how many people (such as myself) think that there
>simply hasn't been enough clean research to draw a firm conclusion one
>way or the other ("I keep telling Orville and Wilbur that powered flight
>simply can't work!")
>
>Ray Drouillard



From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 08:55:43 1998
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cyberdrive.net>
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Subject: Re: High MPG
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 08:51:44 -0400
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Of course they are, one of my points is if we can't afford it, whats the
point?  Lets continue the research, though.
Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>


>I agree about the ceramic engines, but aren't they a bit expensive???
>
>>>Ceramic parts which operate without cooling and greater expansion ratios
can
>>reduce this energy wastage.  None of which has anything to do with
pushrods.
>>
>>Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>
>>
>><snip>
>>
>>>I think pushrod engines waste something in the neighborhood of 80% of the
>>>available power in the gasoline.
>>>
>>>Frederic Breitwieser



From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 09:35:53 1998
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Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 09:35:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: Charles Taylor-iii <chtaylor@eng.usf.edu>
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I am new to the DIY_EFI list and some what new to fuel injection.  And was
wondering if someone tell me of some good books and literature to read on
the design of fuel injection.  Main areas I am looking for are how to get
a fuel curve for my motorcycle.  Friend and I are working on applying fuel
injection to a dragbike I have and it seems the only draw back we are
having is where to start with the fuel curve.  Any good homebrew books out
there??  I tried the link on the DIY_EFI web page for books and got a NOT
FOUND.  Any help appreciated.

Chuck Taylor
chtaylor@eng.usf.edu
*******************************'84 Kawasaki 900 Ninja
* University of South Florida *   7.21 @ 96.37  1/8th mile
* Mechanical Engineering Dept *  11.37 @ 117.27 1/4 mile
*  (7 months and counting)    *'80 Kawasaki Z1-R 1000
*******************************  Restoration project 


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 09:41:39 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Boingers
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 09:41:47 -0400
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From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: 'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, May 05, 1998 5:24 AM
Subject: RE: Boingers


 It is quite simply the proper design for an
>engine.  Yea alright the design is flawed due to the problem with the
>seals wearing, but in this day and age with ceramic technology there
>must be a way to make this problem go away.  I have always wanted a car
engine that revs to 14,000 rpm with good efficiency.
>
Lets see rotor edge seals, corner seals, or waterseals.  With all the
money mazda has put into them, I still haven't heard of any cures.
They are fragile, IMHO.  If overheated their done.  Great HP per
weight, and way more power per displacement, but huge slow
burning areas of the combustion chamber.  I always thought of
them as self consuming.  With the way they wear, nothing is left,
The rotor housing get eateen up, the case seperators, and then
knock the gears loose on the inside of the rotor, when ya work
em hard.  Fast and light while they last, again IMHO.
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 10:11:35 1998
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$1 (US) per gallon (US gallon I assume)... You should see what we have to
pay for it in Oz... about 80 cents (Aus) per litre here in Tasmania. This
equates to about $4.66 (US) per US gallon!!! In mainland Australia, it isn't
as expensive, but you're still probably looking at more than $3.80 (US) per
US Gallon!!! And some people wonder why I'm after a bit better fuel economy
by trying to catalytically crack the fuel, and make it go further...

Danny Barrett.


(chopped)
>with gasoline at $1 a gallon, its just not worth it.
>Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>
(chopped)


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 10:17:09 1998
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Subject: Re: High MPG
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>I agree about the ceramic engines, but aren't they a bit expensive???

Yes, but as the technology ages, the price comes down.  Most things work
this way.  Just look at cell phones... they used to be $1500 back in 1985.
Now they are a buck :)

Seriously, ceramics and plastics are coming into play in a major way.  I
read in Popular Science, Mechanics, one of those two, an article about a
carbon fiber/resin engine, with iron sleeves.  Takes a good idea and lots
of corporate money :)

But ceramic coating can be done at home.  A gentleman on this list runs a
Ford Tempo engine (2.3L) with a 10:1 C/R ratio, with pump gas, using
ceramic coated pistons, heads, valves, etc.  I ordered the stuff and plan
to do it myself.  Summit and Jegs has it BTW, and the product is called
Tech Line.  I took this individuals recommendation and demoted my toaster
oven from "toaster" to "ceramic coater".




Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 10:17:06 1998
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To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: RE: Boingers
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 9@crianlarich.indigo-avs.com>
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>I am amazed that someone who is obviously not stupid should bad mouth
>the wankle rotary engine.. It is quite simply the proper design for an

>>Okay Michael, short and sweet- my apologies for not including the wankel in
>>my suggestive list of inefficient antiquated technology :)
>><smile>

Whoa, whoa, whoa !!!! Looks like ASCII got me again!!!!  The <smile> means
I was kidding :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

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Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 09:17:41 -0700
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Electric engine swaps
In-Reply-To: <F1F4B2A08DD4D011BE200060977362C3138A56@cliff.partech.com>
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>We would then be doing exotic ELECTRIC motor swaps, so what?
>I for one would enjoy fitting such to one of my project cars.

I have a bookmark somewhere... there;s a company called "Kelmark???" that
makes a decent electric motor that mates to a VW transaxle.  If I find the
link tonight I'll let you know.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 10:44:10 1998
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From: "M&D" <91coupe@bellsouth.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Boingers
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 10:50:20 -0400
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On the IBM patent site I found a bunch of patents relating to new designs
for the seals - such as roller bearings allowing the seals to move easier,
thus be stiffer, and seal better even at high RPM. The latest operational
thing we have is called 'Ianetti seals' after the manufacturer; they are
ceramic seals about 1.5x the cost of steel, are lighter, stronger, and don't
appreciably wear themselves or the rotor housings. Of course, they don't
like much over 25 PSI of boost, either...

Michael Harrington
91coupe@bellsouth.net and http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/downs/4038
91 RX-7 Coupe "Pearl" w/ some mods
88 RX-7 T2 "Beast" sitting in carport :(
N3WJE Technician+ Ham

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: 'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, May 05, 1998 5:06 AM
Subject: RE: Boingers


>I am amazed that someone who is obviously not stupid should bad mouth
>the wankle rotary engine.. It is quite simply the proper design for an
>engine.  Yea alright the design is flawed due to the problem with the
>seals wearing, but in this day and age with ceramic technology there
>must be a way to make this problem go away.  I have always wanted a car
>engine that revs to 14,000 rpm with good efficiency.
>
>But thats my problem
>
>Rob Humphris
>
>>----------
>>From: Frederic Breitwieser[SMTP:frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com]
>>Sent: 05 May 1998 05:44
>>To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
>>Subject: Boingers
>>
>>>Anyway, just wanted to put a slant on things.
>>
>>Okay Michael, short and sweet- my apologies for not including the wankel
in
>>my suggestive list of inefficient antiquated technology :)
>>
>><smile>
>>
>>
>>Frederic Breitwieser
>>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>>
>>Homebrew Automotive Website:
>>http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
>>
>>1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>>1989 HMMWV
>>2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
>>
>>-
>>
>


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Subject: Re: MPG
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 10:49:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <199805050950.TAA11149@corinna.its.utas.edu.au> from "Danny Barrett" at May 5, 98 07:50:41 pm
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> 
> Not like that... You're CREATING energy there (either that or using the
> batteries up in half the time).
> 
> Remember, P=EI
> Power = Voltage times Current.
> 
> If your Voltage goes up, your current will go down for the same power. If
> you double the power, you halve the life of the battery.

not when using a time slicer to control the speed
> 
> If you have a voltage conversion driver, and the voltage out is twice the
> voltage in, then the current out is HALF the current in - same power, not
> double. Nice try though. Also, if you don't believe me, I don't mind, but
> don't try to argue about it (just a warning). In my first and second years
> in my engineering degree, I was taught enough about electricity to know
> better than that.

good for you
I took nuclear physics for 2 years
> 
> >this is easy
> >install larger volatge conversion drivers and a more powerful motor
> >reprogram the time slice divider and away you go
> >double your power very easily 

we were talking about making it faster
not more efficient
and it still would not loose than much more power overall
so range would not be massively effected
electric motors do not loose much efficinecy when throttled down

Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 11:07:51 1998
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Subject: Re: Fuel Injection Design
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 11:11:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <Pine.GSO.3.96.980505092854.29611A-100000@suntan> from "Charles Taylor-iii" at May 5, 98 09:35:08 am
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> 
> I am new to the DIY_EFI list and some what new to fuel injection.  And was
> wondering if someone tell me of some good books and literature to read on
> the design of fuel injection.  Main areas I am looking for are how to get
> a fuel curve for my motorcycle.  Friend and I are working on applying fuel
> injection to a dragbike I have and it seems the only draw back we are
> having is where to start with the fuel curve.  Any good homebrew books out
> there??  I tried the link on the DIY_EFI web page for books and got a NOT
> FOUND.  Any help appreciated.


you can do the calculations yourself
if you have an estimated torque curve for the engine
on a highly tuned bike VE should be in the 110% range or maybe 120% on a race 
bike
max VE will be very near max torque
the VE curve will look almost exactly like to torque curve less mechanical
losses (if you can get a dyno curve for the frictional losses you are laughing)
compute the amount of air you consume per revolution

multiply the RPM x air comsumed at RPM x VE at RPM x frictional loss correction
to get an air comsuption curve

once you know the amount of air you require
you can calculate a fuel curve for WOT at 14.7:1 ratio for stoic
12-13.5:1 for power, and 15:1 or more for cruise

you want the curve to be rich at idle about 10% better than stoic, lean at
cruise, and rich when power is required (IE when vacuum drops)

you should be able to find the info to figure the rest out from there

start too rich and tune it back as required

Clive 

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Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 16:15:36 +0100
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Robert Harris wrote:

> The Ionization Knock Detector looks for a specific event in the combustion
> gasses - the sudden appearance of ionization products after ignition.  Since
> this mechanism is not heavily engine material, size, fuel, temp, ambient
> noise dependent for determining its characteristics, the detection of the
> event is straightforward without the need of highly sophisticated self
> anally extracting make TI rich DSP's.   Start with a clean signal and you
> don't need the hi fangle BS to make the system work - a strange concept I
> know but once upon a time was considered the way to do things.
>
> Properly done, ION can work on everything from a lawnmower to a Multi-staged
> turbo intercooled alcohol fueled road rocket without any basic changes or
> tuning.  It simply must detect the knock related ionization event - which
> incidentally will cause a low voltage dc conduction across the spark gap.
> Simple.  Non computerized, wazoo ized and eminently doable without anything
> even approaching a DSP.

What can I say - this man obviously understands the principles of ion CURRENT
measurement perfectly well - Bob, why don't you head the development team as you
are such an expert!!!!

I would be interested in joining the ION team, as it is what I does anyways.

Tony

--
Sent By Tony Cooper.
email: tony.cooper@virgin.net
Allow at least 10 working minutes for reply. ;)




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To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Boingers
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 08:46:54 -0700
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But we reserve the right to pillory you anyway <smile>

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> [mailto:owner-diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu]On Behalf Of Frederic
> Breitwieser
> Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 1998 9:16 AM
> To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: RE: Boingers
>
Deleted Stuff

> Whoa, whoa, whoa !!!! Looks like ASCII got me again!!!!  The <smile> means
> I was kidding :)
>




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From: mdill@lsil.com (Mike Dillon)
Message-Id: <199805051550.KAA02070@mms10>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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      I would look a little closer at the heat-pump idea the 110 % 
efficancy only means for every 100 watts in electical-mecanical energy put in 
you get 110 watts of heat out, not a big differance. Electric heaters
are 100% efficant at turning electical energy to heat, but then so is a 
light bulb. I am not sure what temps you need in the "refinery" but heat
pumps work real well for small delta T's  ie. 0 to 30 degrees, but 
are less attractive at higher delta T's. Good luck, refine your proposal 
stick with a how this will help the envirorment theme, and start asking
for grants, with luck you might get a career out of it.   
 
Mike D.


> From diy_efi-owner@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu Tue May  5 00:34 CDT 1998
> From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
> 
> Just so that the guesses can stop coming in (even though it has been
> discovered what I am intending)...
> 
> I intend to build an in car "oil refinery." This may sound like a heap of BS
> to many, but others have researched the possibility, and found it might be
> viable IF it can be controled somehow.
> 
> The basic principal behind it is to catalytically crack the fuel molecules,
> in the presence of hydrogen, and form methane. This reaction is an
> ENDOthermic reaction - ie. it requires energy (in the form of heat) to be
> put IN, and thereby, the products of the reaction are at a higher energy
> state than the fuel that was put in. Thus, otherwise wasted heat energy is
> stored CHEMICALLY, to be used within the engine. Because of this "recycling"
> effect, less fuel should be required for the same power output, and hence,
> greater efficiency.
> 
> The main problem with methane as a fuel (from what I am told) is that it
> burns with a lower temperature than gasoline (this means it is more
> "explosive" in its reaction, but changes in ignition timing will cure this
> problem). Since it burns with a lower temperature, it might not produce
> exhaust gases hot enough to keep the catalytic cracking reaction going. This
> is where the refrigerants come in.
> 
> Everyone knows about heat pumps... They use a little bit of energy to
> TRANSFER a large amount of energy from one place to another. This is how a
> home heat pump can have an efficiency of say 110% - The energy it TRANSFERS
> is FAR GREATER than the energy it uses. For those who can't grasp this -
> consider a fuel pump on an engine. It uses a small amount of energy, but it
> pumps fuel, which has a very large amount of energy stored in it
> (chemically). The heat pump is just the same. Also, a heat pump can take
> heat energy from a cold place, and put it into a warm place, making the cold
> place colder, and the warm place warmer. This is how you can sit in your
> cosy room at 30 deg C, when it is 0 deg C outside, simply by using a heat pump.
> 
> How does the heat pump apply to the fuel system? Remember I said that the
> exhaust gases of the methane powered engine may be too cold to keep the
> reaction going? I intend to use a heat pump (using a little bit of energy)
> to TRANSFER a very large amount of energy from the exhaust (making it yet
> cooler), to the little oil refinery mounted on the engine (keeping it at the
> desired temperature). Hence, I have stipulated the refrigerant to be able to
> cope with temperatures of (at least) between 20 deg C, and 500 to 600 deg C.
> In actual fact, it would be better if it were to work at a larger temp
> range. This is also why I said that some kind of head cooling system would
> help my little project, although it isn't my project, per-say. However, I
> had thought of it before. If all of the wasted heat could be collected from
> the oil, the coolant system, and the exhaust (bearing in mind that both the
> coolant system, and the oil should be kept at their most efficient
> temperatures), then the system should (not saying it will) be more efficient
> still. In fact, it might be possible for such a system to replace the
> radiator, and recirculate the energy, instead of throwing it away by
> increasing the ambient air temperature.
> 
> However, such a system would have a maximum efficiency, where the attempt to
> recycle any more energy would result in the system using more extra energy
> than it gains. I do not know where this point is, but I would like to find out.
> 
> As for where EFI fits in, obviously, an EFI system can meter just the right
> amount of fuel (and water that is thermally cracked, and electrostatically
> separated into H(+) and O(2-) ions, then made into H2 and O2 inseparate
> chambers) needed more accurately than any carburettor will ever be able to.
> Also, it may be possible to have another EFI computer controling the heat
> pump, so that the little oil refinery can stay at its most efficient
> temperature.
> 
> Any comments/ideas???
> 
> Danny Barrett.
> 
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 12:30:35 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 09:31:17 -0700
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On Tue, 05 May 1998 16:15:36 +0100, Tony Cooper <tony.cooper@virgin.net>
wrote:

>Robert Harris wrote:
>
>> Properly done, ION can work on everything from a lawnmower to a Multi-staged
>> turbo intercooled alcohol fueled road rocket without any basic changes or
>> tuning.  It simply must detect the knock related ionization event - which
>> incidentally will cause a low voltage dc conduction across the spark gap.
>> Simple.  Non computerized, wazoo ized and eminently doable without anything
>> even approaching a DSP.
>
>What can I say - this man obviously understands the principles of ion CURRENT
>measurement perfectly well - Bob, why don't you head the development team as you
>are such an expert!!!!

Now, now; if we're gonna fight over the young lady, maybe we should wait
until she's born and grows up some. B)  But jealousy or sibling rivalry
at this point I DO take as evidence of keen interest in the plasma-baby.
Very touching.

>I would be interested in joining the ION team, as it is what I does anyways.

Consider yourself joined; there are no "entrance requirements". Just
start sniffin and contributin. I'd sure like to hear more about "it is
what I does anyways", privately if you don't wish to sound like yer
braggin, especially if you're familiar at all with this technology. I
know you, Robert, and most of the other guys from the list by name, but
I don't exactly remember what everybody's "chops" are, so I can't
remember what people do mostly. Anyway, there ain't gonna be any "select
few" (not that you were suggesting that, Tony; just thot I'd say it
outloud for clarity) other than what falls out from natural interest and
involvement as we go along, so don't anybody think we're forming a
soccer team with a limited number of players. I have a feeling the
intricacy of the topic will bench all of us at one time or another. But
with the EEs, AE's, ME's, Electrochem, and MasterMech guys on this list,
together the Summation of Fractional Wits Law will almost certainly lead
to "wit critical-mass". (Just hope it's a controlled reaction, rather
than a melt-down  B).

So let's get ION'ized.

Gar


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Gary Derian wrote:

> Electric is not very efficient if you consider the total scheme.  The
> electric generators are no more efficient than the good old ICE (40%).  Then
> you add the power loss in transmission, converting to chemical energy for
> the battery, then reconverting to electric, then finally getting mechanical
> energy from the motor.  Add this up and the electric car is only 5%
> efficient.  A GM EV1 with a gasoline engine would get 80+ mpg.

Electric cars have transmission loss, but so do gas cars.  You have to
burn diesel fuel to ship all that fuel around.

Here's my question:  The GM EV web page (www.gmev.com) claims a full
charge in 3 hours using a 220V (6.6kW) charger.  That's 19.8 kilowatt
hours of energy.  They claim a maximum capacity of 16.2 KWh for the
battery pack, so 19.8 includes charger inefficiencies.  If electricity
costs 10 cents per KWh, it costs just under $2 to charge the EV-1.  They
claim the range to be 50-90 miles, which puts the cost per mile between
2 and 4 cents.  Just the gas for a gas car costs more than that, plus
all the maintenance like tuneups, fluid changes, etc.  The electric car
is simplicity by comparison.

--steve

> 
> Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

--
Steve Ravet
International Meta Systems
http://www.imes.com
steve@imes.com

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>But we reserve the right to pillory you anyway <smile>

That's fair.

I think.

:)
Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 14:23:35 1998
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Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 12:09:48 -0600
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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Here is a list of fuel line fittings, adapters, and some
other handy parts for GM EFI conversions.  This list is
primarily for Saginaw (metric O ring type) fittings. This is
updated to add part no's for Earl's fittings and Weatherhead
fittings.


fuel injection feed and return nut kit GM 1711798
thread sizes are 14mm X 1.5 and 16mm X 1.5

Connector, fuel feed, double female lines   GM 15544805
connects two male 3/8" Saginaw ends
Connector, fuel return, double female lines  GM 15550219
connects two male 5/16" Saginaw ends
Short sections of line, approx2", with metric/quick connect
ends
Pressure: GM#15694407   $10.55 list
                       15609225    short, straight  $2.55
                       15609224    short, u shaped  $3.25
                       15694408     $10.55

These fittings can easily be used with rubber line by using
the quick connect side as a barb.  Be sure to use quality
clamps and hose rated for appropriate pressures.

Stainless steel braided hose, feed and return
15567762  approx. 30"long   $72 list
This line is used on '88 and '89 pickups.  Looks nice and
it's flexible, but spendy.

rubber hoses
22527471 fuel feed, 1 male X 1 female 3/8" ID
22528623 fuel return 1male X 1 male 5/16" ID
10114736 return hose female X female 5/16" ID
10114709 feed hose female X female 3/8" ID
These are hoses which connect between the tank and the
lines.  There are many different versions available, and
they are all model specific.

O rings
22514722 fuel feed
22516256 fuel ret.

Fuel Filters
25055052 or GF 481 (AC) standard efi filter
25055003 or GF 478 (AC) 1983 Camaro with Crossfire (5.0 "S"
engine)  barbed hose end on inlet and 3/8 inv. flare on
outlet
GF626 has same fittings as GF481, is stainless steel (not
polished), and costs less!  Fits 1995 Chevy pickup.
______________________________________________________________________

Motorvac Fittings
 MV0603400: fuel feed m16X1.5 to 3/8" inv. flare $16.50
MV0603304: fuel ret. metric14X1.5 to 5/16" inv. flare $15.04

Available through Snap On Dealer
Motorvac Tech Support (800) 841-8810
(I will use these, and have ordered one of each)
_________________________________________________
Accel Saginaw parts:

JUMPER LINES:
"The kit consists of three 12" long, 3/8" diameter steel
tubes and one 12"
long, 5/16" diameter steel tube with the Saginaw flare used
in stock GM fuel
injection systems.  It allows direct connection to TPI fuel
rails and a high
pressure fuel filter." (one end has Saginaw fitting, other
end is unfinished)

Jumper Line Kit:74731
3/8" Jumper Line Only:74731-A
5/16" Jumper Line Only:74731-B


HOSE BARB FITTING:
3/8 Saginaw/Hose Barb Fitting (2 ea):74720-A
(for both sides of a high pressure fuel filter, e.g. AC
GF481)


FUEL LINE FITTINGS:
"High quality aluminum fittings provide perfect fit to adapt
GM fuel rails
(Saginaw) or high pressure fuel filters with Saginaw flares
to AN-type
fittings."

Fuel Filter Fitting Kit: 3/8 Saginaw to 6AN (2 ea):74721
TPI Fuel Rail Fitting Kit: 3/8 Saginaw to 6AN (1 ea), 5/16
Saginaw to AN (1
ea): 74730


HIGH FLOW FUEL FILTER & PUMP FITTINGS:
"Anodized in a rich gold, these fittings allow the highest
flowrate of any
Saginaw fitting available.  Complete with O-rings, these
fittings now accept
#8AN fuel line."

High Flow Fuel Filter Fitting: 74743-H
High Flow Fuel Pump Fitting: 74711-H
Fuel Filter with 3/8 Saginaw provisions: 74720 (like GF481)
_______________________________________________________________

Weatherhead Fittings

3/8" inverted flare to 14 X 1.5mm    1445
3/8" inverted flare to 16 X 1.5mm    1446
3/8" inverted flare to 18 X 1.5mm    1447

_______________________________________________________________
Earls  (1-800-421-2712)

part no. 
  991954 14mm X 1.5 (return line)
  991955 16mm X 1.5 (pressure line)
  991956 18mm X 1.5 (power steering line)


These fittings adapt to a -6 AN line.
_________________________________________________________________

Remember that part numbers and prices often change, that
parts are sometimes discontinued or replaced by "similar"
parts, and that any EFI conversion requires a certain amount
of ingenuity and flexibility.

Fuel feed lines in stock applications are typically 3/8"dia.
and return lines are typically 5/16" dia.
Some EFI conversions use Saginaw type line ends cut from
stock lines and attached to standard steel line with
*quality* compression fittings

These fittings have their roots in hydraulic applications,
and shops which make hydraulic hoses may be able to find
Saginaw ends to make custom lines.

Thanks to all who responded.  If anyone has part numbers or
info to add, please E-mail me and I will update this list
when there is enough new info. Thanks.

Shannen Durphey
shannen@mcn.net

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 14:53:20 1998
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cyberdrive.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: High MPG
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 14:49:01 -0400
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Steve, when I said transmission losses, I meant electrical transmission from
the power plant to your house.  By the way, your cost calculations don't
include the cost of the vehicle, who knows what the non-subsidized cost
would be, or the cost of new batteries every year or two.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

From: steve ravet <steve@sun4c409.imes.com>

>Gary Derian wrote:
>
>> Electric is not very efficient if you consider the total scheme.  The
>> electric generators are no more efficient than the good old ICE (40%).
Then
>> you add the power loss in transmission, converting to chemical energy for
>> the battery, then reconverting to electric, then finally getting
mechanical
>> energy from the motor.  Add this up and the electric car is only 5%
>> efficient.  A GM EV1 with a gasoline engine would get 80+ mpg.
>
>Electric cars have transmission loss, but so do gas cars.  You have to
>burn diesel fuel to ship all that fuel around.
>
>Here's my question:  The GM EV web page (www.gmev.com) claims a full
>charge in 3 hours using a 220V (6.6kW) charger.  That's 19.8 kilowatt
>hours of energy.  They claim a maximum capacity of 16.2 KWh for the
>battery pack, so 19.8 includes charger inefficiencies.  If electricity
>costs 10 cents per KWh, it costs just under $2 to charge the EV-1.  They
>claim the range to be 50-90 miles, which puts the cost per mile between
>2 and 4 cents.  Just the gas for a gas car costs more than that, plus
>all the maintenance like tuneups, fluid changes, etc.  The electric car
>is simplicity by comparison.
>
>--steve
>
>>
>> Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 16:17:50 1998
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Gary Derian wrote:
> 
> Steve, when I said transmission losses, I meant electrical transmission from
> the power plant to your house.  By the way, your cost calculations don't

That's what I meant too.  Some electricity is lost between the power
plant and your house, it's the cost of getting power there.  Same for
fuel.  The truck that delivers fuel to the gas station burns fuel.  It's
the cost of getting it there.

> include the cost of the vehicle, who knows what the non-subsidized cost
> would be, or the cost of new batteries every year or two.

True, I left out the cost of the batteries.  It's built into the EV-1
lease, so who knows what it costs.  The point I was trying to make is
that in terms of buying gas versus buying electricity, the electric car
appears to be cheaper, in spite of the energy conversions along the
way.  Battery technology is bad right now, but it won't stay that way
for long.  Never bet against technology!  I'm not calling for the
elimination of gas cars.  But personally, for the daily commute, I'd
prefer the electric car and it's lower maintenance.


--
Steve Ravet
International Meta Systems
http://www.imes.com
steve@imes.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 16:53:55 1998
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Subject: Re: High MPG
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 16:57:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <354F0CFE.34F6@imes.com> from "steve ravet" at May 5, 98 12:58:38 pm
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> 
> Here's my question:  The GM EV web page (www.gmev.com) claims a full
> charge in 3 hours using a 220V (6.6kW) charger.  That's 19.8 kilowatt
> hours of energy.  They claim a maximum capacity of 16.2 KWh for the
> battery pack, so 19.8 includes charger inefficiencies.  If electricity
> costs 10 cents per KWh, it costs just under $2 to charge the EV-1.  They
> claim the range to be 50-90 miles, which puts the cost per mile between
> 2 and 4 cents.  Just the gas for a gas car costs more than that, plus
> all the maintenance like tuneups, fluid changes, etc.  The electric car
> is simplicity by comparison.


but the battery packs cost a lot of energy to make
and the expense of replaceing them every 50k miles of so could be very 
prohibitive
a batt pakc cna be in the 10K range = $ .20 a mile just for batteries
and you still have drivetrain maint on an EV system too
look at $ .30/mile as operating expenses + depreciation
how does this compare to a small gas car?
some of them are in the $ .10 range

Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 18:35:21 1998
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From: John Napoli <jgn@li.net>
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On Tue, 5 May 1998, steve ravet wrote:

> lease, so who knows what it costs.  The point I was trying to make is
> that in terms of buying gas versus buying electricity, the electric car
> appears to be cheaper, in spite of the energy conversions along the
> way.  Battery technology is bad right now, but it won't stay that way
> for long.  Never bet against technology!  I'm not calling for the
> elimination of gas cars.  But personally, for the daily commute, I'd
> prefer the electric car and it's lower maintenance.
> 

Unfortunately, electricity is not that cheap for all of us.  We pay the
highest rates in the nation.  Electricity is so expensive here, that the
operational cost (ie, gas and maintenance) of my 15KW backup generator is
less per KWHr than the KWHr rate from my local utility.  For this reason,
electric cars are a bad idea here, even though a lot of the driving I do
would suit today's EV offerings to a 'T'.

John


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 18:37:24 1998
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From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
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Subject: Re: High MPG
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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In-Reply-To: <354F0CFE.34F6@imes.com> from "steve ravet" at May 5, 98 12:58:38 pm
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> 
> Gary Derian wrote:
> 
> > Electric is not very efficient if you consider the total scheme.  The
> > electric generators are no more efficient than the good old ICE (40%).  Then
> > you add the power loss in transmission, converting to chemical energy for
> > the battery, then reconverting to electric, then finally getting mechanical
> > energy from the motor.  Add this up and the electric car is only 5%
> > efficient.  A GM EV1 with a gasoline engine would get 80+ mpg.
> 
> Electric cars have transmission loss, but so do gas cars.  You have to
> burn diesel fuel to ship all that fuel around.
> 
> Here's my question:  The GM EV web page (www.gmev.com) claims a full
> charge in 3 hours using a 220V (6.6kW) charger.  That's 19.8 kilowatt
> hours of energy.  They claim a maximum capacity of 16.2 KWh for the
> battery pack, so 19.8 includes charger inefficiencies.  If electricity
> costs 10 cents per KWh, it costs just under $2 to charge the EV-1.  They
> claim the range to be 50-90 miles, which puts the cost per mile between
> 2 and 4 cents.  Just the gas for a gas car costs more than that, plus
> all the maintenance like tuneups, fluid changes, etc.  The electric car
> is simplicity by comparison.
> 
> --steve

Gas only costs about $.70 before taxes.  In the US at least if you drive
on the roads with anything you have to pay taxes to use the road.  So at 
.70 / gallon, and using a normal car with 30mpg, that is $2.10 of fuel
for the same distance.  The "recharge" takes 10 minutes.   And that
is ignoring that fact that the EV1's range decreases alot in hills, or
in cold (heater) or hot (AC), more so than the gas engined vehicle.  And
with the performance the ev1, you have to compare the EV1 with somethi8ng
that gets better than 30mpg.   Also remember batteries have to be replaced
fairly often (3-5 years tops) and they are not cheap, if they are using
lead acid type the battery is going to be over 1k, and there is no way
to really avoid it.  If they aren't lead-acid they are going to be 
significatly more.

					Roger

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 18:39:06 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: "Richard W. Cowan" <gt1040a@prism.gatech.edu>
Subject: Re: High MPG
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>but the battery packs cost a lot of energy to make
>and the expense of replaceing them every 50k miles of so could be very 
>prohibitive

This is assuming the only alternative is current technology.  I think we
can agree that the EV1 with its monster 1000# battery back and only 70-90
miles per charge is a nice start, but it is not the answer.  If you want to
take into account the energy/cost to make the battery packs and the
electric motor to raise the cost of operation of an electric, you have to
compare that with the energy/cost to manufacture an ICE:  Engine block,
heads, valves, springs, rockers, pushrods, pistons, rods, cam (maybe
solenoids in the future) exhaust system, larger coolant system, a starter,
ignition system, larger water pump, fuel system, fuel pump, etc etc.  With
electrics you have:  Big Induction motor which has far fewer parts, no
exhaust system, no fuel system & compenents, no oil system, no ignition
system, smaller coolant system.  If electrics were being produced at the
same levels as ICEs the cost would probably be far less.  There are far
fewer value-added manufacturing steps involved here and design tolerances
are not as critical.  Crate Electric motors will probably be way cheaper
than ICEs also(for your future aftermarket swapping enjoyment :) )  

The reason it probably won't for a while is that an acceptable battery (at
least 200mi per charge, light weight, low volume, shorter charge time, etc)
has not been invented yet.  However, as someone said, don't bet against
technology.

Of course suspension, brakes, chassis/frame, bodywork, interiors, etc are
still the same and don't factor into the comparison.

Richard
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~vaps1rc

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 18:42:40 1998
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Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 18:45:11 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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Subject: Re: High MPG
References: <008001bd781d$218cc420$657cbdc0@dilbert.nordson.com> <354F0CFE.34F6@imes.com>
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steve ravet wrote:
> 
> Gary Derian wrote:
> 
> > Electric is not very efficient if you consider the total scheme.  The
> > electric generators are no more efficient than the good old ICE (40%).  Then
> > you add the power loss in transmission, converting to chemical energy for
> > the battery, then reconverting to electric, then finally getting mechanical
> > energy from the motor.  Add this up and the electric car is only 5%
> > efficient.  A GM EV1 with a gasoline engine would get 80+ mpg.
> 
> Electric cars have transmission loss, but so do gas cars.  You have to
> burn diesel fuel to ship all that fuel around.
> 
> Here's my question:  The GM EV web page (www.gmev.com) claims a full
> charge in 3 hours using a 220V (6.6kW) charger.  That's 19.8 kilowatt
> hours of energy.  They claim a maximum capacity of 16.2 KWh for the
> battery pack, so 19.8 includes charger inefficiencies.  If electricity
> costs 10 cents per KWh, it costs just under $2 to charge the EV-1.  They
> claim the range to be 50-90 miles, which puts the cost per mile between
> 2 and 4 cents.  Just the gas for a gas car costs more than that, plus
> all the maintenance like tuneups, fluid changes, etc.  The electric car
> is simplicity by comparison.
> 
> --steve
> 
> >
> > Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>
> 
> --
> Steve Ravet
> International Meta Systems
> http://www.imes.com
> steve@imes.com
You simplify it too much, and in so doing you overstate the cost per
mile. That charger tapers the charge, I believe, so it does not charge
full tilt all three hours. The actual power consumption is relatively
less.
I had a converted 75 Fiat coupe in the late 70s, running lead acid
batteries, a converted aicraft generator for a motor, and voltage
switching (24/48 volt) with startup resistors. Nothing fancy or high
tech. At the time it took about $.28 to charge the batteries - good for
50 miles at 30mph, or 30 at 50.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 18:43:34 1998
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From: "David" <david@gardener.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Digital Multimeter suggestion wanted
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 17:42:13 -0500
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The current Radio Shack sale flyer has two Digital Multimeters listed.

The first is model 22-174ue for $ 69.99

It features are True RMS.  Can be used to check temperature F or C.  True
RMS for accurate AC readings.  Measures frequencies up to 2MHz, capacitance,
transistor gain, even shown NPN/PNP polarity and E-B-C pinout on display.
Autoranging.  Includes temperature probe.

The second model is $ 44.99 (after $ 5.00 coupon in flyer).  Model 22-178ue.

It features autoranging, continuous buzzer, 20 amp AC and DC ranges.  Diode
check.

Both run on two AA batteries.

I am not well versed on this stuff.  I believe you need a digital multimeter
to measure a lot of the EFI stuff.

Your thoughts and suggestions would be muchly appreciated.

David




From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 18:51:20 1998
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Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 18:47:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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To: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
cc: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Boingers
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here's my 1/50 of a buck,the thing hampering the durability of the wankel
engine is the oil,oil made for regular engine will not burn efficiently,
4 stroke engine oil will leave carbon deposit on apex seal,the solution
Road & Track magazine did to their racing (don't know what class do they
race but it's not the quarter mile variety) is to put 2 stroke engine oil
in their motor,it's been a while since i read the report but i think they
said it did an amelioration of the durability of the motor,i think there
was also an article in Kitplanes (not sure),they reported having seen
carbon deposit in engine from 10 000 milles on up (even on heavily
pampered engine),the solution for these motor if they wanted to last is
that they would rely on 2 stroke engine oil.

any though on this ??

Alain Toussaint

> I am amazed that someone who is obviously not stupid should bad mouth
> the wankle rotary engine.. It is quite simply the proper design for an
> engine.  Yea alright the design is flawed due to the problem with the
> seals wearing, but in this day and age with ceramic technology there
> must be a way to make this problem go away.  I have always wanted a car
> engine that revs to 14,000 rpm with good efficiency.
> 
> But thats my problem
> 
> Rob Humphris
> 
> >----------
> >From: 	Frederic Breitwieser[SMTP:frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com]
> >Sent: 	05 May 1998 05:44
> >To: 	diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> >Subject: 	Boingers
> >
> >>Anyway, just wanted to put a slant on things.
> >
> >Okay Michael, short and sweet- my apologies for not including the wankel in
> >my suggestive list of inefficient antiquated technology :)
> >
> ><smile>
> >
> >
> >Frederic Breitwieser
> >Bridgeport, CT 06606
> >
> >Homebrew Automotive Website:
> >http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
> >
> >1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> >1989 HMMWV
> >2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
> >
> >-
> >
> 
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 18:59:37 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Fuel Line Fittings Updated
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 15:58:04 -0700
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Excellent list!

Any chance you know the two fittings used in the GM power steering pumps? I
need to connect a 1986 Ciera hose to a 1992 3800 SC pump. It will thread in
the 92 pump, but I think they are different compression methods. Both pumps
are the plastic reservoir type. But your list solved the fuel line issue. I
will cut the plastic quick disconnects off, add the 14/16mm nuts and have
then double flared again and use female to female hoses. I would just prefer
to not have gas shooting on the exhaust manifold at 60PSI. Call me a wimp.

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, May 05, 1998 12:23 PM
Subject: Fuel Line Fittings Updated


>Here is a list of fuel line fittings, adapters, and some
>other handy parts for GM EFI conversions.  This list is
>primarily for Saginaw (metric O ring type) fittings. This is
>updated to add part no's for Earl's fittings and Weatherhead
>fittings.
>
>
>fuel injection feed and return nut kit GM 1711798
>thread sizes are 14mm X 1.5 and 16mm X 1.5
>
>Connector, fuel feed, double female lines   GM 15544805
>connects two male 3/8" Saginaw ends
>Connector, fuel return, double female lines  GM 15550219
>connects two male 5/16" Saginaw ends
>Short sections of line, approx2", with metric/quick connect
>ends
>Pressure: GM#15694407   $10.55 list
>                       15609225    short, straight  $2.55
>                       15609224    short, u shaped  $3.25
>                       15694408     $10.55
>
>These fittings can easily be used with rubber line by using
>the quick connect side as a barb.  Be sure to use quality
>clamps and hose rated for appropriate pressures.
>
>Stainless steel braided hose, feed and return
>15567762  approx. 30"long   $72 list
>This line is used on '88 and '89 pickups.  Looks nice and
>it's flexible, but spendy.
>
>rubber hoses
>22527471 fuel feed, 1 male X 1 female 3/8" ID
>22528623 fuel return 1male X 1 male 5/16" ID
>10114736 return hose female X female 5/16" ID
>10114709 feed hose female X female 3/8" ID
>These are hoses which connect between the tank and the
>lines.  There are many different versions available, and
>they are all model specific.
>
>O rings
>22514722 fuel feed
>22516256 fuel ret.
>
>Fuel Filters
>25055052 or GF 481 (AC) standard efi filter
>25055003 or GF 478 (AC) 1983 Camaro with Crossfire (5.0 "S"
>engine)  barbed hose end on inlet and 3/8 inv. flare on
>outlet
>GF626 has same fittings as GF481, is stainless steel (not
>polished), and costs less!  Fits 1995 Chevy pickup.
>______________________________________________________________________
>
>Motorvac Fittings
> MV0603400: fuel feed m16X1.5 to 3/8" inv. flare $16.50
>MV0603304: fuel ret. metric14X1.5 to 5/16" inv. flare $15.04
>
>Available through Snap On Dealer
>Motorvac Tech Support (800) 841-8810
>(I will use these, and have ordered one of each)
>_________________________________________________
>Accel Saginaw parts:
>
>JUMPER LINES:
>"The kit consists of three 12" long, 3/8" diameter steel
>tubes and one 12"
>long, 5/16" diameter steel tube with the Saginaw flare used
>in stock GM fuel
>injection systems.  It allows direct connection to TPI fuel
>rails and a high
>pressure fuel filter." (one end has Saginaw fitting, other
>end is unfinished)
>
>Jumper Line Kit:74731
>3/8" Jumper Line Only:74731-A
>5/16" Jumper Line Only:74731-B
>
>
>HOSE BARB FITTING:
>3/8 Saginaw/Hose Barb Fitting (2 ea):74720-A
>(for both sides of a high pressure fuel filter, e.g. AC
>GF481)
>
>
>FUEL LINE FITTINGS:
>"High quality aluminum fittings provide perfect fit to adapt
>GM fuel rails
>(Saginaw) or high pressure fuel filters with Saginaw flares
>to AN-type
>fittings."
>
>Fuel Filter Fitting Kit: 3/8 Saginaw to 6AN (2 ea):74721
>TPI Fuel Rail Fitting Kit: 3/8 Saginaw to 6AN (1 ea), 5/16
>Saginaw to AN (1
>ea): 74730
>
>
>HIGH FLOW FUEL FILTER & PUMP FITTINGS:
>"Anodized in a rich gold, these fittings allow the highest
>flowrate of any
>Saginaw fitting available.  Complete with O-rings, these
>fittings now accept
>#8AN fuel line."
>
>High Flow Fuel Filter Fitting: 74743-H
>High Flow Fuel Pump Fitting: 74711-H
>Fuel Filter with 3/8 Saginaw provisions: 74720 (like GF481)
>_______________________________________________________________
>
>Weatherhead Fittings
>
>3/8" inverted flare to 14 X 1.5mm    1445
>3/8" inverted flare to 16 X 1.5mm    1446
>3/8" inverted flare to 18 X 1.5mm    1447
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Earls  (1-800-421-2712)
>
>part no.
>  991954 14mm X 1.5 (return line)
>  991955 16mm X 1.5 (pressure line)
>  991956 18mm X 1.5 (power steering line)
>
>
>These fittings adapt to a -6 AN line.
>_________________________________________________________________
>
>Remember that part numbers and prices often change, that
>parts are sometimes discontinued or replaced by "similar"
>parts, and that any EFI conversion requires a certain amount
>of ingenuity and flexibility.
>
>Fuel feed lines in stock applications are typically 3/8"dia.
>and return lines are typically 5/16" dia.
>Some EFI conversions use Saginaw type line ends cut from
>stock lines and attached to standard steel line with
>*quality* compression fittings
>
>These fittings have their roots in hydraulic applications,
>and shops which make hydraulic hoses may be able to find
>Saginaw ends to make custom lines.
>
>Thanks to all who responded.  If anyone has part numbers or
>info to add, please E-mail me and I will update this list
>when there is enough new info. Thanks.
>
>Shannen Durphey
>shannen@mcn.net
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 19:10:24 1998
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Thanks,
Ed

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 19:52:22 1998
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Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 09:52:12 +1000
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Wayne Blair <wayneb@foxboro.com.au>
Subject: Promedit
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For those of you trying to make use of Promedit.

gnuplot_exe.zip has been placed into 

ftp incoming 

put gnuplot.exe in the same directory as promedit and the 

[G] - graphic view of table option will work.



wayne

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 20:05:59 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Digital Multimeter suggestion wanted
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 20:06:24 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: David <david@gardener.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, May 05, 1998 7:43 PM
Subject: Digital Multimeter suggestion wanted


>The current Radio Shack sale flyer has two Digital Multimeters listed.
>
>The first is model 22-174ue for $ 69.99
>
  Measures frequencies up to 2MHz, capacitance,
>transistor gain, even shown NPN/PNP polarity and E-B-C pinout on display.
>Autoranging.  Includes temperature probe.
>
>David
>
Frequency is nice to have when ya do need it,  
IMHO, for $20 worth it.
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 20:30:36 1998
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From: "Watson, Bill (Tempe)" <Bill.Watson@alliedsignal.com>
To: "dfi@kens.com" <dfi@kens.com>,
        "DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu"
	 <DIY_EFI@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
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Subject: RE: DFI: What is the latest version of Calmap software?
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 17:29:00 -0700
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>>What is the latest version of Calmap software?

I believe that would be 6.32.

bill


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 20:35:30 1998
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Richard W. Cowan wrote:
> 
> >but the battery packs cost a lot of energy to make
> >and the expense of replaceing them every 50k miles of so could be very
> >prohibitive
> 
> This is assuming the only alternative is current technology.  I think 
> we can agree that

I think we can agree that the electric car stuff has gone on long enough.
If you want to discuss this, please take it private....  Let's get back
to EFI.  This is an EFI list.....

Thanks, Scot Sealander    Sealand@clarityconnect.com


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 20:46:24 1998
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Subject: Re: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
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The trick is the solvent you use . Please if you use this product use
rubber gloves goggles and avery well ventilated area this stuff is
nothing to play with makes battery acid look weak.
Please read and follow all directions that comes with these chemicals .
Enough for the warnings now for the good stuff. A company called Dynaloy
Inc. makes a line of desolvers but the main three to use is:

1) Decap or Dynasolve 100 (Decap said it needs to be above 65 F follow
the directions)   for removal of any cured epoxy..

2)Dynasolve 711 for cured silicones , urethanes and anhydride epoxies .

3)Uresolve plus SG  for cured silicones, urethanes,anhydride epoxies
(semiconductor grade)

The directions that come with it explain how to apply and use. Start
with junk yard parts first. I have removed epoxy  and repaired several
units using this stuff.  They have a catalog just call them up .

Dynaloy Inc.
7 Great Meadow lane
Hanover N.J. 07936

Phone 201-887-9270

Clive Apps Techno-Logicals 416 510 0020 wrote:

> a lot of epoxys trun into a gooey jellified mess if exposed to
> high levels of UV light
>
> Clive
> >
> > >I have access to a lab materials to remove most any epoxy from
> > >electronic parts. But can't promise if the unit will work but they
> work
> > >in 99% of the time.Contact me off line if you want this done.
> > >
> > >Steve
> >
> > As I mentioned before, I hope I don't have to resort to this, but I
> will
> > look for another unit to maybe sacrifice. How bout you sharing the
> > methods and materials used?
> >
> > I hope this is not another secret method. Sigh.
> >




From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 20:52:15 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu, <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Digital Multimeter suggestion wanted
In-Reply-To: <000d01bd7877$6053fc00$5c6e2299@default>
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>I am not well versed on this stuff.  I believe you need a digital multimeter
>to measure a lot of the EFI stuff.

Hello David, I have the desktop version of the first meter you mentioned...
and have used the true RMS setting a few times... and found the overall
meter to be of "decent" quality.  I also have a "Fluke" meter that was at
least double the price, which can be dropped, stepped on, and is definately
more durable.

Both meters you mentioned from Radio Shack are accurate, and decent meters.
 But, drop it a few times, it its time to get the glue out :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 20:55:07 1998
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Subject: Re: Digital Multimeter suggestion wanted
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 20:58:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <000d01bd7877$6053fc00$5c6e2299@default> from "David" at May 5, 98 05:42:13 pm
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> 
> It features are True RMS.  Can be used to check temperature F or C.  True
> RMS for accurate AC readings.  Measures frequencies up to 2MHz, capacitance,
> transistor gain, even shown NPN/PNP polarity and E-B-C pinout on display.
> Autoranging.  Includes temperature probe.
> 
> The second model is $ 44.99 (after $ 5.00 coupon in flyer).  Model 22-178ue.
> 
> It features autoranging, continuous buzzer, 20 amp AC and DC ranges.  Diode
> check.


if you can afford it get the cap checker
it is a very useful feature
RMS come in handy sometimes too

Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 21:15:21 1998
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If you buy radio shack meter buy the extended warranty I bought the data
logging one that hooks to the pc and it rides in a race car.
meter $99.00
3 yr. $9.99
David wrote:

> The current Radio Shack sale flyer has two Digital Multimeters listed.
>
> The first is model 22-174ue for $ 69.99
>
> It features are True RMS.  Can be used to check temperature F or C.
> True
> RMS for accurate AC readings.  Measures frequencies up to 2MHz,
> capacitance,
> transistor gain, even shown NPN/PNP polarity and E-B-C pinout on
> display.
> Autoranging.  Includes temperature probe.
>
> The second model is $ 44.99 (after $ 5.00 coupon in flyer).  Model
> 22-178ue.
>
> It features autoranging, continuous buzzer, 20 amp AC and DC ranges.
> Diode
> check.
>
> Both run on two AA batteries.
>
> I am not well versed on this stuff.  I believe you need a digital
> multimeter
> to measure a lot of the EFI stuff.
>
> Your thoughts and suggestions would be muchly appreciated.
>
> David




From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 21:31:17 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 20:56:46 -0400
Subject: Re: electric cars - costs
Message-ID: <19980505.211359.10790.4.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
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The only part of the equation you're missing is the efficiency.  The
efficiency of electric motors tend to run in the 90s (except for those
small household models).  The motor in the advanced vehicle at LTU runs
at 90%, and I consider it to be somewhat low.

Also, the vehicles that they choose to run electrically use considerablly
less than 20KW when cruising.  I think that 20KW would maintain a good
speed in my full-sized Jeep.

By the way, We (my wife and I) saw an EV1 in the parking lot at Oakland
mall a couple months ago.  It didn't look roomy.  It was, in fact, quite
the econobox.  Well... "box" isn't quite the word.  It had good
aerodynamics.

Ray Drouillard


On Tue, 5 May 1998 01:44:56 -0500 "Dave Balfour" <balfour@bushnell.net>
writes:
>well if it takes 28 hp to accellerate and run down the road that
>means that it takes 20 kw of power say you drive for an hour each day
>that is 20kw hours. assuming 40% effiency that means that it takes 50
>kwh of energy from the grid. that is about 7dollars around here. now
>once you figure in the tax that needs to be imposed to offset the tax
>loss for not having the gas tax to pay for roads etc. that would add
>another dollar. so it is 8 dollars. If there are a lot of people
>using electricity the price will go up so add another buck and we are
>up to 9 dollars That doesnt compare well to the 2 or 3 gallons of
>gas. Add in the price of new batteries every 2-3 years ouch. At some
>point when gas becomes 3-4 dollars per gallon then it begins to make
>sense but not until.
>dave balfour

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Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 21:13:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Boingers
Message-ID: <19980505.211359.10790.5.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
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He didn't compare that goofey cycloid-operated engine with the more
standard piston engine.  He was lumping it with all of the other internal
combustion engines as old technology.

We can argue all day about the relative merits of the two technologies,
but the Wankyl doesn't seem to have enough to offer to entice more than
one car company to put any money into it.  I don't recall seeing any
really impressive performance or mileage figures for the Mazda RX7.  Yah,
it's a neat concept.  There are other ways of reducing the loss due to
forcing a few ounces of metal bounce back and forth.  You could hold the
crank still and rotate the cylinders.  I believe the British made an
engine that did that.

On Tue, 5 May 1998 09:43:11 +0100 Robert Humphris
<r.humphris@indigo-avs.com> writes:
>I am amazed that someone who is obviously not stupid should bad mouth
>the wankle rotary engine.. It is quite simply the proper design for an
>engine.  Yea alright the design is flawed due to the problem with the
>seals wearing, but in this day and age with ceramic technology there
>must be a way to make this problem go away.  I have always wanted a 
>car
>engine that revs to 14,000 rpm with good efficiency.
>
>But thats my problem
>
>Rob Humphris
>
>>----------
>>From: 	Frederic 
>Breitwieser[SMTP:frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com]
>>Sent: 	05 May 1998 05:44
>>To: 	diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
>>Subject: 	Boingers
>>
>>>Anyway, just wanted to put a slant on things.
>>
>>Okay Michael, short and sweet- my apologies for not including the 
>wankel in
>>my suggestive list of inefficient antiquated technology :)
>>
>><smile>
>>
>>
>>Frederic Breitwieser
>>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>>
>>Homebrew Automotive Website:
>>http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
>>
>>1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>>1989 HMMWV
>>2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
>>
>>-
>>
>

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Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 20:56:22 -0400
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V3 #193
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On Mon, 4 May 1998 22:44:25 -0600 Jim Velasquez
<jim_velasquez@partech.com> writes:
>Hey, folks, who says that future automobiles with INTERNAL combustion
>engines can't make use of electric drivetrains and FUEL CELLS?
>Supposedly said are in early development, and if some design challenges
>are solved, we could be looking at a HIGHLY efficient powerplant that
>could still burn gasoline (such a fuel cell DOES exist!).  They output
>electricity, heat, and some combustion byproducts...

The fuel cell I saw at the Detroit North American Auto Show used
catylists to crack the fuel and extract the hydrogen.  The carbon was
basically tossed out.  They claimed that even with the wasted carbon, the
system as a whole is more efficient than an internal combustion engine.

You can't use fuels containing carbon in a fuel cell because the
resultant CO2 would neutralize the electrolyte.  Most fuel cells I have
seen use NaOH (sodium hydroxide) as an electrolyte.  I wonder if anyone
has tried using an acidic electrolyte.

>
>We would then be doing exotic ELECTRIC motor swaps, so what?
>I for one would enjoy fitting such to one of my project cars.

I would put a motor at each wheel.  That would give me 4WD, and eliminate
the traction problems of open differentials.  I would have the advantage
of lockers without any of the disadvantages.  The control system could
detect and stop spin, and the appropriate amount of torque could be sent
to each wheel.

For you performance car fans, the computer could use the steering wheel
position, acceleration sensors, etc. to determine how much torque to put
to each wheel for ideal traction when cornering.  Each wheel could be
kept near its adhesion limits.  The actual force vector on the contact
patch would be at some angle based on th eamount of torque applied and
the centrepital acceleration.

Ray Drouillard

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Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 20:56:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Refrigerants, Wide range EGO and other thoughts.
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Would you need a gallon?  Anyhow, they have been using ammonia cycle
coolers in houses and motor homes for a long time.  Most of the house
units are gone (replaced by freon), but there are still a few travelling
the roads or stuck in cabins.


On Tue, 5 May 1998 13:58:40 +0800 Dan Zorde <dzorde@soanar.com.au>
writes:
>Just place a Hazchem sticker on your car, and hope you don't have an
accident. 
> I'm sure the EPA would have a few things to say after a gallon or so of

>ammonium have spilt all over the road and knocked out any nearby
witnesses. 
> Would look spectacular but.
>
>Dan	dzorde@soanar.com.au
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:	steve ravet [SMTP:steve@sun4c409.imes.com]
>Sent:	Monday, 04 May, 1998 9:24 PM
>To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject:	Re: Refrigerants, Wide range EGO and other thoughts.
>
>Thor Johnson wrote:
>>
>> > Refrigerants
>> >
>> > Sounds like someone is trying to adapt the ammonia  absorption
>> cycle
>> > refrigeration system to use as an intercooler.  What is
>> interesting is that
>> > although this cycle is less "efficient" at cooling  than a
>> compressed gas
>> > cycle, it gets it's pumping energy from heat - in the  case of
>> a propane RV
>> > refrigerator from a small propane flame, or in this  case from
>> the waste heat
>> > of the exhaust.  The problem is probably the exhaust
>> temperatures raise the
>> > ammonia/water solution past the efficient working  range and
>> the gentleman is
>> > looking for another absorption cycle fluid that will work in
>> this range.
>>
>> You have any good sources of info on the ammonia cycle?  I'm a
>> nuts&bolts guy who would like to build one for the heck of it....
>> (An EE that likes to play with the ME's toys ;).
>
>Get on Deja News, and do a search on ammonia refrigerators.  You'll 
>come
>up with a lot of posts in rec.boating of all places, including one 
>that
>explains ammonia fridges in detail.  The author's name is Rod McInnis.
>A mixture of water and ammonia is heated in a column.  Because of
>different boiling points, one end of the column is mostly ammonia, the
>other end is mostly water.  The two are separated, and pumped into the
>fridge.  When water and ammonia mix, the temperature of the mix goes 
>way
>down.  It's a physical process, not a chemical one, that I cannot
>remember the name of right now.  The mixture never changes pressure, 
>so
>there is no compresor.  The only energy input is a flame or electric
>heat to boil the mixture.  In an RV, there isn't even a pump, the 
>system
>is cleverly designed so that the gravity causes the mixture to
>circulate.  That won't work in a car with lateral G forces, but 
>there's
>no reason why you couldn't add a small pump to circulate the mixture.
>It's been mentioned before here, it seems like it would be a good way 
>to
>use exhaust heat to cool the incoming mixture.  The only thing is that
>the ammonia mixture is very stong (poisonous), much stronger than
>cleaning products.
>
>--steve
>
>>
>> TIA,
>> -Thor Johnson
>> thormj@iname.com
>
>--
>Steve Ravet
>International Meta Systems
>http://www.imes.com
>steve@imes.com
>
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 21:33:51 1998
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Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 20:55:51 -0400
Subject: Re: High MPG
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Funny you should mention that.  I just went to the open-house for
Lawrence Technological University (LTU) and they were displaying advanced
hybrid vehicle.  They were displaying the first one, which was powered by
a small (Geo, I think) engine and an electric motor.  Their second
version uses a Volkswagon Diesel engine.  It has better range than most
automobiles (700+ miles, if I'm not mistaken), the ability to run from
either source or a combination of both, and a computer controlled
transmission (manual shifted by a computer).

For short trips, you don't even need to start the engine.  In the city,
you can run off the electric motor and start the engine when the
batteries start to get low.  If you have the engine running, you have the
power of both the engine and the electric motor at your disposal.  I
forgot what the 0-60 time is, but it isn't too shabby.

Oops... I almost forgot.  It has regenerative braking.

Now, if they want to get fancy, they can use the waste heat from the
exhaust to run a stirling or steam engine that is turning a generater.

Ray Drouillard, BSEE (from LTU)


On Tue, 5 May 1998 08:10:24 -0400 "Gary Derian" <gderian@cyberdrive.net>
writes:
>The thermodynamics of Sterling, Wankle, turbine are all governed by the
same
>laws.  Low temperature compression, high temperature expansion.  This is
>what drives efficiency.  These alternatives all have their place in the
>world but none of them offer an increase in efficiency.
>
>In my opinion, the best currently available technology is a hybrid
vehicle:
>electric drive, small battery for acceleration, small diesel to generate
the
>average power needed and regenerative braking.  Toyota even builds one
for
>sale, but with gasoline at $1 a gallon, its just not worth it.
>Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>
>
>From: Raymond C Drouillard <cosmic.ray@juno.com>
>
>>On Mon, 04 May 1998 14:57:45 -0700 Frederic Breitwieser
>><frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com> writes:
>>>>Ceramic parts which operate without cooling and greater expansion
>>ratios can
>>>>reduce this energy wastage.  None of which has anything to do with
>>pushrods.
>>>
>>>Hello Gary,
>>>
>>>I didn't mean to imply that the pushrods are the culprit, I was 
>merely
>>>commenting that the 100 year old design has outlived its 
>practicality,
>>and
>>>that new engineering should take place.
>>>
>>>
>>>Frederic Breitwieser
>>>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>>>
>>>Homebrew Automotive Website:
>>>http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
>>>
>>>1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>>>1989 HMMWV
>>>2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
>>
>>I have seen several ideas tried, but none of them seemed to make the 
>big
>>time.  The otto-cycle engine has also had a hundred years of of
>>refinement.  The Wankyl, Stirling, and turbine engine simply don't 
>have
>>all those thousands of hours of research and refinement behind them.  
>The
>>auto companies could make a go of it with the other designs, but the 
>cost
>>of the research would force them to charge a lot for the cars.  So 
>far,
>>nobody is willing to take that big of a risk.  We'll have to see
>>something that is clearly superior before the auto manufactures get 
>the
>>courage to put the research necessary into it.
>>
>>We could, no doubt, get a Stirling engine to run well enough to power 
>a
>>car.  The first few would have enough problems to make the owners 
>wish
>>for a good 'ol gasoline burner that "never gave me any trouble".
>>
>>Maybe the next major change in engine technology will be a steam 
>turbine
>>powered by cold fusion.  Just put some coils or magnets around the 
>edge
>>of the turbine and draw the power off electromagnetically.  Make the
>>turbine and housing out of ceramic, use magnetic bearings, and just 
>keep
>>it running all the time to keep the temperature up to operating
>>temperature.
>>
>>Anyhow, I fear that I have strayed off subject a tad.  It'll be
>>interesting to see how many people swear that the whole cold fusion 
>thing
>>is a hoax, how many believe that it works and has been supressed by 
>the
>>oil companys, and how many people (such as myself) think that there
>>simply hasn't been enough clean research to draw a firm conclusion 
>one
>>way or the other ("I keep telling Orville and Wilbur that powered 
>flight
>>simply can't work!")
>>
>>Ray Drouillard
>
>
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 21:50:48 1998
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Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 21:53:25 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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Alain Toussaint wrote:
> 
> here's my 1/50 of a buck,the thing hampering the durability of the wankel
> engine is the oil,oil made for regular engine will not burn efficiently,
> 4 stroke engine oil will leave carbon deposit on apex seal,the solution
> Road & Track magazine did to their racing (don't know what class do they
> race but it's not the quarter mile variety) is to put 2 stroke engine oil
> in their motor,it's been a while since i read the report but i think they
> said it did an amelioration of the durability of the motor,i think there
> was also an article in Kitplanes (not sure),they reported having seen
> carbon deposit in engine from 10 000 milles on up (even on heavily
> pampered engine),the solution for these motor if they wanted to last is
> that they would rely on 2 stroke engine oil.
> 
> any though on this ??
> 
> Alain Toussaint
> 
> > I am amazed that someone who is obviously not stupid should bad mouth
> > the wankle rotary engine.. It is quite simply the proper design for an
> > engine.  Yea alright the design is flawed due to the problem with the
> > seals wearing, but in this day and age with ceramic technology there
> > must be a way to make this problem go away.  I have always wanted a car
> > engine that revs to 14,000 rpm with good efficiency.
> >
> > But thats my problem
> >
> > Rob Humphris
> >
> > >----------
> > >From:        Frederic Breitwieser[SMTP:frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com]
> > >Sent:        05 May 1998 05:44
> > >To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> > >Subject:     Boingers
> > >
> > >>Anyway, just wanted to put a slant on things.
> > >
> > >Okay Michael, short and sweet- my apologies for not including the wankel in
> > >my suggestive list of inefficient antiquated technology :)
> > >
> > ><smile>
> > >
> > >
> > >Frederic Breitwieser
> > >Bridgeport, CT 06606
> > >
> > >Homebrew Automotive Website:
> > >http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
> > >
> > >1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> > >1989 HMMWV
> > >2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
> > >
> > >-
> > >
> >
> >
I know a lot of endurance racers run 100:1 2 stroke gas/oil mixture in
their Mazdas for this very reason. The engines smoke a bit, but do not
wear out.
-- 
                               _/\_
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                         S    0/  \0    B
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Turkeys!!!

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Steven Gorkowski wrote:
> 
> If you buy radio shack meter buy the extended warranty I bought the data
> logging one that hooks to the pc and it rides in a race car.
> meter $99.00
> 3 yr. $9.99
> David wrote:
> 
> > The current Radio Shack sale flyer has two Digital Multimeters listed.
> >
> > The first is model 22-174ue for $ 69.99
> >
> > It features are True RMS.  Can be used to check temperature F or C.
> > True
> > RMS for accurate AC readings.  Measures frequencies up to 2MHz,
> > capacitance,
> > transistor gain, even shown NPN/PNP polarity and E-B-C pinout on
> > display.
> > Autoranging.  Includes temperature probe.
> >
> > The second model is $ 44.99 (after $ 5.00 coupon in flyer).  Model
> > 22-178ue.
> >
> > It features autoranging, continuous buzzer, 20 amp AC and DC ranges.
> > Diode
> > check.
> >
> > Both run on two AA batteries.
> >
> > I am not well versed on this stuff.  I believe you need a digital
> > multimeter
> > to measure a lot of the EFI stuff.
> >
> > Your thoughts and suggestions would be muchly appreciated.
> >
> > David
Forget the extended warranty - if it is going to fail it will likely
fail within warranty. Use the money you save on this warranty, double
it, and buy another meter. The warranties are a rip-off.
-- 
                               _/\_
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                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
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From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 22:01:17 1998
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From: "Derek Jewett" <djewett@snowcrest.net>
To: "Do-it-Yourself Fuel Injection" <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Fw: EPROMr 2.0 PCB artwork available
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 19:08:54 -0700
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-----Original Message-----
From: Lewin A.R.W. Edwards <larwe@zws.com>
To: jewett@sunset.net <jewett@sunset.net>; calphool@dwx.com
<calphool@dwx.com>
Date: Tuesday, May 05, 1998 2:11 PM
Subject: EPROMr 2.0 PCB artwork available


Preliminary PCB artwork for the V2.0 EPROMr (parallel version) is
available. PLEASE NOTE that this is NOT a commercial release; it's merely
an experimental .. er .. experiment with a PCB CAD package.

If you want to experiment with this design (I'd really like some
feedback), please contact me and I can email you the PostScript files
(top layer, bottom layer, drill guide and overlay). If you don't have a
PostScript printer, I can send a PCL file suitable for most HP-compatible
lasers.

Oh yes... The board is rather squashed (about 2" wide x 4" long) and
there are many, many vias on it (206 holes, all up). It's double-sided,
and through-hole-plate construction is recommended. Like I said, it's an
experiment.

Please feel free to pass this message on to anyone you feel may be
interested.

=== From the Apple PowerBook 1400 of =================
Lewin A.R.W. Edwards [Team OS/2] <http://www.zws.com/>
Programmer + Hardware Eng     Certified Apple Engineer
Need a programmer?    <http://www.zws.com/resume.html>
Embedded systems  -  DOS  -  Win16  -  Win32  -  MacOS
=== (C) Copyright 1998 by Lewin A.R.W. Edwards =======




From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 22:32:49 1998
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Anything Fluke tends to be good...far more robust than most on the market...they don't mind mistakes re range settings except obviously current, they are more expensive than most, but you only buy one and it lasts.
Have had a Fluke 27 for some years and never a problem. used almost daily....good test leads too.
Make sure what ever you get is autoranging and has range hold capability too, cap test and thermo. sometimes useful, but better to spend money on quality

Grant





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Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 21:28:33 -0400
Subject: Re: High MPG
Message-ID: <19980505.221826.10790.6.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
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If I lived in an area where gas prices are that high, I would be a lot
more agressive in my plans for running my Full-Sized Jeep on propane or
methane.  Right now, there isn't enough of a price advantage.

On Wed, 6 May 1998 00:11:27 +1000 (EST) danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au
(Danny Barrett) writes:
>$1 (US) per gallon (US gallon I assume)... You should see what we have
to
>pay for it in Oz... about 80 cents (Aus) per litre here in Tasmania.
This
>equates to about $4.66 (US) per US gallon!!! In mainland Australia, it
isn't
>as expensive, but you're still probably looking at more than $3.80 (US)
per
>US Gallon!!! And some people wonder why I'm after a bit better fuel
economy
>by trying to catalytically crack the fuel, and make it go further...
>
>Danny Barrett.
>
>
>(chopped)
>>with gasoline at $1 a gallon, its just not worth it.
>>Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>
>(chopped)
>
>

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 22:52:13 1998
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From: "Zack" <zubenubi@inetport.com>
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> 
> This is assuming the only alternative is current technology.  I think we
> can agree that the EV1 with its monster 1000# battery back and only 70-90
> miles per charge is a nice start, but it is not the answer.  If you want to
> take into account the energy/cost to make the battery packs and the
> electric motor to raise the cost of operation of an electric, you have to
> compare that with the energy/cost to manufacture an ICE:  Engine block,
> heads, valves, springs, rockers, pushrods, pistons, rods, cam (maybe
> solenoids in the future) exhaust system, larger coolant system, a starter,
> ignition system, larger water pump, fuel system, fuel pump, etc etc.  With
> electrics you have:  Big Induction motor which has far fewer parts, no
> exhaust system, no fuel system & compenents, no oil system, no ignition
> system, smaller coolant system.  If electrics were being produced at the
> same levels as ICEs the cost would probably be far less.  There are far
> fewer value-added manufacturing steps involved here and design tolerances
> are not as critical.
>  Crate Electric motors will probably be way cheaper
> than ICEs also(for your future aftermarket swapping enjoyment :) )  

I tend to disagree.  The electronics which go into a modern EV 
are completely non-trivial.  If it were otherwise, they would 
have started hitting the roads a long time ago.  Lest y'all forget, 
electric cars came first.  There were electric carriages toodling 
around the streets of London back in the days of steam carriages.  
Electric cars (and steam carriages too) lost out because the 
technology of the time sucked in comparison to IC's.
	The technology in these electric cars has come a long way in recent 
years, with the advent of computers and newer semiconductors making 
it much more feasible to design and run the power invertors which 
these monsters require.  Unfortunately, IC engines have progressed by 
leaps and bounds in that same period, and the same computer, sensor, 
and control technology that has benefitted electroic cars is also 
reaping benefits for IC's, bringing things like low-emissions, 
extremely high efficiency DGI cars closer to realization as well.	The 
cost of manufacturing the EV's themselves is just a tiny piece of the 
puzzle.  If everyone were to start driving electric cars, we would be 
faced with the necessity of having to make a huge increase in the 
capacity of the electric power grid in most parts of the country, 
notably central and southern California, where the capacity of the 
grid as it is now is already marginal for the summer loads 
(as events of recent summers have shown).
 	The amount of time and capital investment required to make the 
electric car idea work on a large scale, when you toss everything 
into the bucket, is pretty staggering.
 	As Honda has so aptly pointed out while publicizing the ZEV 
technology which they are bringing to fruition, electric cars are not 
Zero Emissions Vehicles.  They're really Remote Emissions Vehicles, 
and when you factor in what comes out the smokestack of the plant 
generating electricity for that EV, and compare it to IC technology 
that is currently in development, EV's suddenly don't look as 
wonderful as everyone has been claiming they are. 

> The reason it probably won't for a while is that an acceptable battery (at
> least 200mi per charge, light weight, low volume, shorter charge time, etc)
> has not been invented yet.  However, as someone said, don't bet against
> technology.

People have been working on this (batteries) since before the turn 
of the century, and the progress so far has been next to nothing.  
Even if you look at the electromotive series and just fantasize about 
things you -might- be able to build, even though you never could for 
practical reasons, it's hardly promising.  Even if you could run your 
car on Lithium batteries, which will never happen, the energy density 
of Lithium batteries is still pathetic in comparison to gasoline.

I never bet against technology, the question is which technology to 
bet for.  It's a footrace between EV's and better IC technology.  And 
what I see based on what I've read, is EV technology inching along 
with painful slowness, having made good progress in some areas over 
the last 10 years (motors and motor drive technology) but still 
foundering on the same problems which have plagued it for 100 years 
(low energy density of batteries and reliance on an inflexible power 
grid for charging), whereas IC emissions control technology and 
efficiency has progressed by leaps and bounds in the last 30 years, 
to a degree nobody would have believed possible only a short time 
ago, and the biggest improvements yet to be made are just now 
entering the pipeline, and will probably be coming to market in the 
next 5 to 10 years.
	As I see it, the only thing to recommend electric vehicles right now 
is the low emissions.  In another 10 years, when this new IC 
technology really starts to hit the market, that supposed emissions 
advantage will rapidly disappear, and companies and govornments will 
find it more and more difficult to justify continuing to throw money 
at a 100+ year old idea that never worked well to begin with and 
still doesn't work well now.  Which is not to say that I couldn't be 
proved wrong, I'm just telling you where I would place my money if I 
were betting on the thing.

Zack

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 22:52:23 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Digital Multimeter suggestion wanted
Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 19:53:07 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Tue, 5 May 1998 20:06:24 -0400, "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
wrote:

> David <david@gardener.com> wrote:
>>
>>The first is model 22-174ue for $ 69.99
>>
>  Measures frequencies up to 2MHz, capacitance,
>>transistor gain, even shown NPN/PNP polarity and E-B-C pinout on display.

>Frequency is nice to have when ya do need it,  
>IMHO, for $20 worth it.

I agree, but even more so, is the capacitance measuring option, like
Clive also said. This is especially important since the SMD caps usually
aren't marked (my cheapos aren't anyway), and it's really the pits
if/when you spill some together on the bench and then start vehemently
denting your forehead with your palm.

Gar


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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Boingers
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 22:53:36 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Subject: Re: Boingers



>I know a lot of endurance racers run 100:1 2 stroke gas/oil mixture in
>their Mazdas for this very reason. The engines smoke a bit, but do not
>wear out.

13A-B, or them 3 rotor jobs?, or all?.  Got any clue as to HC/CO
levels at 100:1..    What block off the oil injection?.  Then just 
premix?.  
Cheers
Bruce
>-- 
>                               _/\_
>                       --|-----([])-----|--
>                         S    0/  \0    B
>         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca



From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 23:16:44 1998
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Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 23:21:07 -0400
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Several people wanted to know the source of my info so here is a short summary

The DOE web page

http://ev2.inel.gov/sop/eva/

gives overall efficiency of several electric vehicles be sure to use charger numbers
(248 for EV1 and 412 for RAV4EV) since these include battery losses (DOE is unclear
on the cycle driven for this number)

Electric plant efficiency is measured as Heat Rate.  When I interned at Con Edison
the plants ran from 9,000 to 13,000 btu/kW-hr.  Newer combined cycle plants are
probably better (maybe 8,000 btus/kW-hr).

Gasoline heat content runs from about 106,000 to 116,000 btus per gallon (oxygenated
fuel at the low end).

Also my comments on mass transit.  In areas where it is available and reasonable it
should be used.  It will not work in many areas of the country and it will never
replace other forms of personnel travel.

My point was, ICEs are more efficient than people realize and that electrics are a
false path.  The money spent on electric research would be better spent elsewhere
(diesels, mass transit, telecommuting, etc.)

>   As far as electric goes they use more energy per mile than an efficient ICE
> automobile.  The EV1 uses 248 watt-hrs/mi (measured at the charger)  The RAV4
> uses 412 watt-hrs/mi (again at the charger)  This electricity is produced at a
> fossil fueled plant (the energy used by EVs should be counted against the
> incremental generator not the base plants since they represent a new load).
> These plants need approximately 10,000 btus of fuel to produce 1,000 watt-hour of
> energy.  So the EV1 uses the equivalent of 2480 btus to travel a mile.  Since
> gasoline has 114,000 btus per gallon the EV1 is getting the equivalent of 46
> mpg.  The RAV4EV is getting the equivalent of 28 mpg.  Neither of these figures
> beats a good ICE vehicle with the same performance.
>
> To reduce oil use with electric vehicles will require a nuclear based electrical
> system.  Until that happens we should save fuel by using mass transit (where
> available), efficient ICE (vehicles not inefficient EVs and not SUVs), and by
> cutting wasted travel.




From diy_efi-owner  Tue May  5 23:24:09 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Digital Multimeter suggestion wanted
Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 20:24:53 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Tue, 05 May 1998 21:59:06 -0400, Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
wrote:

>Steven Gorkowski wrote:
>> 
>> If you buy radio shack meter buy the extended warranty I bought the data
>> logging one that hooks to the pc and it rides in a race car.
>> meter $99.00
>> 3 yr. $9.99

>Forget the extended warranty - if it is going to fail it will likely
>fail within warranty. Use the money you save on this warranty, double
>it, and buy another meter. The warranties are a rip-off.

Actually Clare, this might be one eXtreme eXception to me feeling just
like you do, cuz REMEMBER, on the multimeters, if you forget and leave
the leads in the CURRENT measuring plugins, you run a decent risk of
fryin the thang, EVEN if it does have good fast fuses. BTDT. It's true
it shouldn't happen, but on the lesser well designed ones at this price
point, it's a REAL issue.

Funny story: I was in a Grainger office one day, waiting for my order to
get picked, and a bunch of us waitin at the counter were watching this
Fluke "bake-off contest" movie running on the demo TV. They showed how
lots of the lesser brands don't always pass the smoke test on OV
ratings, and how many of them will smoke (even tho fused) if you screw
up and forget to put the leads back in the right place after measuring
current. As the guy on the TV goes and demos this "boo-boo", all of us
standing there looked at each other, grinned, and then swore to each
other that we'd "NEVER done that". Hee. Worth a good hoot, it was.

Gar


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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 20:39:14 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Tue, 05 May 1998 19:36:31 -0500, Steven Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
wrote:

>I have removed epoxy  and repaired several
>units using this stuff.  They have a catalog just call them up .
>
>Dynaloy Inc.
>7 Great Meadow lane
>Hanover N.J. 07936
>
>Phone 201-887-9270

Priceless info, dude. Kudos.

Man, I love this internet thang; whadid I ever do without it? Grope in
the dark on alot of these questions, I guess.  B)

Gar


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From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Boingers
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On Tue, 5 May 1998, Raymond C Drouillard wrote:

> We can argue all day about the relative merits of the two technologies,
> but the Wankyl doesn't seem to have enough to offer to entice more than
> one car company to put any money into it. 

The bottom line on the Wankel Rotary seems to be that the
surface-to-volume ratio is poor, compared to a conventional piston engine,
therefor dooming it to a niche in engine history. OTOH, Felix's rotary
valve engines seem to be pretty interesting...at least the Torpedo V8,
anyway. Talk about serious EGR.

> forcing a few ounces of metal bounce back and forth.  You could hold the
> crank still and rotate the cylinders.  I believe the British made an
> engine that did that.
> 
Well, they made a copy of the original, which was French [of course]... 
vive le differance!

Jim Davies


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 00:00:50 1998
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Frederic,

Aside from their durability, the one thing Fluke meters are noted for 
is their very high accuracy, which cheaper meters generally can't 
approach.  When I used to be a physics student, I don't 
think I saw anything -but- Fluke in use around labs, but for a home 
instrument, or for DIY type stuff, unless your stuffed with cash the 
accuracy is probably not worth the cost, and I would go for the Radio 
Shack unit.

Zack



>  I also have a "Fluke" meter that was at
> least double the price, which can be dropped, stepped on, and is definately
> more durable.
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 00:00:53 1998
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> There are other ways of reducing the loss due to
> forcing a few ounces of metal bounce back and forth.  You could hold
> the crank still and rotate the cylinders.  I believe the British
> made an engine that did that.

Ray,

If you hold the crank still, you -still- have that metal 
bouncing back and forth.  You cannot, even in theory, create a piston 
engine with perfect dynamic balance.  You can in theory achieve 
perfect dynamic balance in a rotary engine, and some designs have in 
fact achieved this (the Moller Rotary for one), though most have not 
(the dynamic balance of Mazda's rotaries is not perfect).
.	As for the rotary piston engine (which cannot be dynamically 
balanced) lots of people made rotary piston engines, not just the 
British (the rotary kind on the old WWI planes, where the entire 
engine rotated around the stationary crankshaft).  They were a very 
unfavorable design for lots of reasons, and didn't last very long.
	In all honesty, I think the jury is still out on the Wankel.  
There's no getting around the fact that the power output per unit 
volume and per unit weight is -much- higher than for a piston engine. 
The only reason you don't see bigger rotary engines in terms of total 
output is because of the fuel consumption issue.
  	Mazda claims to have made great improvements in both efficiency 
and power output with the MSPRE, and Moller is now marketing a rotary 
that is demonstrably as fuel efficient (if not more) and has lower 
emissions than most piston engines.  Whether either of these will 
actually make it to the automotive market and prove practical and 
durable remains to be seen, but the prospects are certainly 
interesting.  ( A tiny Moller rotary tied to a generator in a hybrid 
electric vehicle would be -extremely- interesting ).
	Whatever bad things one may say about the rotary, and 
there are plenty of justifiable criticisms, it has survived far 
longer in the automotive market than any comparable "alternative" 
powerplant that I can think of.

Z

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Alain,

Carbon deposits and the burning of the oil inside the engine 
have nothing to do with shortened longevity IMHO.  I have seen 
rotaries at 200,000 miles which ran just fine, which is pretty 
impressive for such a tiny, high revving engine.  (The hard driven 4 
banger in my old Honda was pretty much dead at 130).
	A very common (if not notorious) cause of premature rotary death 
(premature meaning, before the 200,000 that you would expect for a 
well cared for engine), is failure of the eccentric shaft oil bypass 
valve, which leads to insufficient oil flow through the rotors, 
overheating of the oil in the rotors (and the rotors themselves), 
leading to failure of the seals.  R&R of this item is recommended 
every 50-75k miles by those who know about it, but it is rarely done, 
probably as a result of ignorance.  This isn't really an engine 
design fault, it's a maintenance fault.  Just imagine the bad rap 
that piston engines would get if nobody ever replaced a timing belt, 
and if 95% of the mechanics who worked on them had no idea what a 
timing belt was or where it was and no idea why or when it should be 
replaced... 

Zack




> Alain Toussaint wrote:
> > 
> > here's my 1/50 of a buck,the thing hampering the durability of the wankel
> > engine is the oil,oil made for regular engine will not burn efficiently,
> > 4 stroke engine oil will leave carbon deposit on apex seal,the solution
> > Road & Track magazine did to their racing (don't know what class do they
> > race but it's not the quarter mile variety) is to put 2 stroke engine oil
> > in their motor,it's been a while since i read the report but i think they
> > said it did an amelioration of the durability of the motor,i think there
> > was also an article in Kitplanes (not sure),they reported having seen
> > carbon deposit in engine from 10 000 milles on up (even on heavily
> > pampered engine),the solution for these motor if they wanted to last is
> > that they would rely on 2 stroke engine oil.
> > 
> > any though on this ??
> > 
> > Alain Toussaint
> > 
> > > I am amazed that someone who is obviously not stupid should bad mouth
> > > the wankle rotary engine.. It is quite simply the proper design for an
> > > engine.  Yea alright the design is flawed due to the problem with the
> > > seals wearing, but in this day and age with ceramic technology there
> > > must be a way to make this problem go away.  I have always wanted a car
> > > engine that revs to 14,000 rpm with good efficiency.
> > >
> > > But thats my problem
> > >
> > > Rob Humphris
> > >
> > > >----------
> > > >From:        Frederic Breitwieser[SMTP:frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com]
> > > >Sent:        05 May 1998 05:44
> > > >To:  diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> > > >Subject:     Boingers
> > > >
> > > >>Anyway, just wanted to put a slant on things.
> > > >
> > > >Okay Michael, short and sweet- my apologies for not including the wankel in
> > > >my suggestive list of inefficient antiquated technology :)
> > > >
> > > ><smile>
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >Frederic Breitwieser
> > > >Bridgeport, CT 06606
> > > >
> > > >Homebrew Automotive Website:
> > > >http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
> > > >
> > > >1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> > > >1989 HMMWV
> > > >2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
> > > >
> > > >-
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> I know a lot of endurance racers run 100:1 2 stroke gas/oil mixture in
> their Mazdas for this very reason. The engines smoke a bit, but do not
> wear out.
> -- 
>                                _/\_
>                        --|-----([])-----|--
>                          S    0/  \0    B
>          Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
>                   E-Mail service is back to normal
>                   To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
>                     Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
>                                 OR
> Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
> spammers!!!
> It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
> Turkeys!!!
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 00:23:10 1998
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Subject: Re: In car oil refinery, run by EFI.
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Yes, I see your point about the energy in/out bit. However, somewhere (I
can't remember where) I've heard of heat pumps that are 300% efficient. Of
course, the efficiency depends mainly on the refrigerant used, and so does
the the temperature difference. Ie. get the right refrigerant, and get the
desired results. The biggest problem is: is there a refrigerant that will do
the job...



>      I would look a little closer at the heat-pump idea the 110 % 
>efficancy only means for every 100 watts in electical-mecanical energy put in 
>you get 110 watts of heat out, not a big differance. Electric heaters
>are 100% efficant at turning electical energy to heat, but then so is a 
>light bulb. I am not sure what temps you need in the "refinery" but heat
>pumps work real well for small delta T's  ie. 0 to 30 degrees, but 
>are less attractive at higher delta T's. Good luck, refine your proposal 
>stick with a how this will help the envirorment theme, and start asking
>for grants, with luck you might get a career out of it.   
> 
>Mike D.
>
>
>> From diy_efi-owner@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu Tue May  5 00:34 CDT 1998
>> From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
>> 
>> Just so that the guesses can stop coming in (even though it has been
>> discovered what I am intending)...
>> 
>> I intend to build an in car "oil refinery." This may sound like a heap of BS
>> to many, but others have researched the possibility, and found it might be
>> viable IF it can be controled somehow.
>> 
>> The basic principal behind it is to catalytically crack the fuel molecules,
>> in the presence of hydrogen, and form methane. This reaction is an
>> ENDOthermic reaction - ie. it requires energy (in the form of heat) to be
>> put IN, and thereby, the products of the reaction are at a higher energy
>> state than the fuel that was put in. Thus, otherwise wasted heat energy is
>> stored CHEMICALLY, to be used within the engine. Because of this "recycling"
>> effect, less fuel should be required for the same power output, and hence,
>> greater efficiency.
>> 
>> The main problem with methane as a fuel (from what I am told) is that it
>> burns with a lower temperature than gasoline (this means it is more
>> "explosive" in its reaction, but changes in ignition timing will cure this
>> problem). Since it burns with a lower temperature, it might not produce
>> exhaust gases hot enough to keep the catalytic cracking reaction going. This
>> is where the refrigerants come in.
>> 
>> Everyone knows about heat pumps... They use a little bit of energy to
>> TRANSFER a large amount of energy from one place to another. This is how a
>> home heat pump can have an efficiency of say 110% - The energy it TRANSFERS
>> is FAR GREATER than the energy it uses. For those who can't grasp this -
>> consider a fuel pump on an engine. It uses a small amount of energy, but it
>> pumps fuel, which has a very large amount of energy stored in it
>> (chemically). The heat pump is just the same. Also, a heat pump can take
>> heat energy from a cold place, and put it into a warm place, making the cold
>> place colder, and the warm place warmer. This is how you can sit in your
>> cosy room at 30 deg C, when it is 0 deg C outside, simply by using a heat
pump.
>> 
>> How does the heat pump apply to the fuel system? Remember I said that the
>> exhaust gases of the methane powered engine may be too cold to keep the
>> reaction going? I intend to use a heat pump (using a little bit of energy)
>> to TRANSFER a very large amount of energy from the exhaust (making it yet
>> cooler), to the little oil refinery mounted on the engine (keeping it at the
>> desired temperature). Hence, I have stipulated the refrigerant to be able to
>> cope with temperatures of (at least) between 20 deg C, and 500 to 600 deg C.
>> In actual fact, it would be better if it were to work at a larger temp
>> range. This is also why I said that some kind of head cooling system would
>> help my little project, although it isn't my project, per-say. However, I
>> had thought of it before. If all of the wasted heat could be collected from
>> the oil, the coolant system, and the exhaust (bearing in mind that both the
>> coolant system, and the oil should be kept at their most efficient
>> temperatures), then the system should (not saying it will) be more efficient
>> still. In fact, it might be possible for such a system to replace the
>> radiator, and recirculate the energy, instead of throwing it away by
>> increasing the ambient air temperature.
>> 
>> However, such a system would have a maximum efficiency, where the attempt to
>> recycle any more energy would result in the system using more extra energy
>> than it gains. I do not know where this point is, but I would like to
find out.
>> 
>> As for where EFI fits in, obviously, an EFI system can meter just the right
>> amount of fuel (and water that is thermally cracked, and electrostatically
>> separated into H(+) and O(2-) ions, then made into H2 and O2 inseparate
>> chambers) needed more accurately than any carburettor will ever be able to.
>> Also, it may be possible to have another EFI computer controling the heat
>> pump, so that the little oil refinery can stay at its most efficient
>> temperature.
>> 
>> Any comments/ideas???
>> 
>> Danny Barrett.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 00:36:45 1998
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V3 #193
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Already done - The Nisan GTR, affectionately known as "GODZILLA" in Australia...



>For you performance car fans, the computer could use the steering wheel
>position, acceleration sensors, etc. to determine how much torque to put
>to each wheel for ideal traction when cornering.  Each wheel could be
>kept near its adhesion limits.  The actual force vector on the contact
>patch would be at some angle based on th eamount of torque applied and
>the centrepital acceleration.
>
>Ray Drouillard
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
>


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From: "Dave Balfour" <balfour@bushnell.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Digital Multimeter suggestion wanted
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 23:36:13 -0500
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I purchased  a small digital handleld high impedence multi meter from
radio shack for 20 dollars last year. It is smaller than a pack of
cigarettes including the leads
-----Original Message-----
From: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com <garfield@pilgrimhouse.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, May 05, 1998 11:24 PM
Subject: Re: Digital Multimeter suggestion wanted


>On Tue, 05 May 1998 21:59:06 -0400, Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
>wrote:
>
>>Steven Gorkowski wrote:
>>>
>>> If you buy radio shack meter buy the extended warranty I bought
the data
>>> logging one that hooks to the pc and it rides in a race car.
>>> meter $99.00
>>> 3 yr. $9.99
>
>>Forget the extended warranty - if it is going to fail it will
likely
>>fail within warranty. Use the money you save on this warranty,
double
>>it, and buy another meter. The warranties are a rip-off.
>
>Actually Clare, this might be one eXtreme eXception to me feeling
just
>like you do, cuz REMEMBER, on the multimeters, if you forget and
leave
>the leads in the CURRENT measuring plugins, you run a decent risk of
>fryin the thang, EVEN if it does have good fast fuses. BTDT. It's
true
>it shouldn't happen, but on the lesser well designed ones at this
price
>point, it's a REAL issue.
>
>Funny story: I was in a Grainger office one day, waiting for my
order to
>get picked, and a bunch of us waitin at the counter were watching
this
>Fluke "bake-off contest" movie running on the demo TV. They showed
how
>lots of the lesser brands don't always pass the smoke test on OV
>ratings, and how many of them will smoke (even tho fused) if you
screw
>up and forget to put the leads back in the right place after
measuring
>current. As the guy on the TV goes and demos this "boo-boo", all of
us
>standing there looked at each other, grinned, and then swore to each
>other that we'd "NEVER done that". Hee. Worth a good hoot, it was.
>
>Gar
>


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From: JCs DOOR <JCsDOOR@aol.com>
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Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 00:43:01 EDT
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Subject: Re: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
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well  we apear to be in luck . i found another di .that we can try to get
unpotted.
 HAVE  HEAT  GUN and mask am ready to do the deed.
send hints and ill go to it..
jim

its spring time in the rockeys

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 00:48:31 1998
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Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 00:48:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: Charles Taylor-iii <chtaylor@eng.usf.edu>
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Clive,

I do have a dyno result for the bike, and the results are at the rear
wheel so it would account for losses.  The run I have is not the greatest
run it was taking when I was working out the bugs in the bike, will redo
here shortly.  Max torque occurred at 6800 RPM with 55.2 ft-lbs, bike
redlines at 10500.  You say that VE(I assume this is volumetric
efficiency) should be around 110% to 120%, book I have says around 75% for
a stock motorcycle engine  in good condition.  I am using a stock engine
and assuming good condition.  I am not completely sure if I understand how
you say to get the air consumption curve.
You say:
"multiply the RPM x air comsumed at RPM x VE at RPM x frictional loss
correction to get an air comsuption curve"
Since I have the torque curve then I should multiply 
(RPM)(Volume one cylinder)(VE)  Where VE would be the torque at that RPM
				but in percent form??

So at the 6800 RPM from my dyno run I would have this for 908cc engine:
(6800)(227cc)(.552)=852067cc/min

And then for each point along the torque curve do the same thing??  And
this will give me an air consumption curve.
Am I on the right track?

Or do I use the torque curve and say that the max of the curve is what I
say the Max VE is and then slice it into parts and compare it against the
RPM.  This way the air consumtion at 6800 RPM would be(assuming VEmax=75):
(6800)(227cc)(.75)=1157700cc/min
Then at each RPM spot I would chose what the VE would be according to the
VEmax being 75.  
Appreciate the help.  Don't spam me too hard I am trying to learn this
stuff but have yet to find the books that explain a lot of what I need.
Thanks


Chuck Taylor
chtaylor@eng.usf.edu
*******************************'84 Kawasaki 900 Ninja
* University of South Florida *   7.21 @ 96.37  1/8th mile
* Mechanical Engineering Dept *  11.37 @ 117.27 1/4 mile
*  (8 months and counting)    *'80 Kawasaki Z1-R 1000
*******************************  Restoration project 



From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 01:17:49 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 22:18:33 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Wed, 6 May 1998 00:43:01 EDT, JCs DOOR <JCsDOOR@aol.com> wrote:

>well  we apear to be in luck . i found another di .that we can try to get
>unpotted.

Hey, great. Say, BTW, Jim, I was talking to my local Saab dealer today,
and they said that although the "Trionic" system wasn't introduced until
'93, the DI system has been in use since '90!! Man that's a long time;
the thing I'm really curious about is, DID even those earlier systems
ALSO do firing and knock detection via ionization detection? Just wanna
know how far back this Saab use of Ionization technology actually goes.
Might help in searching out the key SAE papers to read. Could you have a
look in say maybe your '90 shop manual, or maybe you know right off the
top of your head if those earlier DI units had the special Ionization
detection magic in them. TIA.

> HAVE  HEAT  GUN and mask am ready to do the deed.
>send hints and ill go to it..

Uh, Jim, did you see Steve Gorkowski's latest post on that? Them
chemicals might be alot easier than tryna melt the thang, but hey, don't
let me stop ya. Just don't fry yerself!

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 01:24:07 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: High MPG
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Around here, when you consider everything (including cylinder hire - you
can't *buy* auto cylinders anymore, from what I've heard), you need to do
about 30,000 km (18,600 miles) per year to even break even - I only do about
10,000 to 15,000 km per year - a lot of good it would do me. However, all of
the taxi's use liquified petroleum gas, as they are doing well above this
figure...

Danny Barrett.

P.S.: it's been that long since I've looked at the price of fule down here
that I had forgotten that the price had gone down - in Tasmania, it's now
about 75 Aussy cents per litre for leaded (what my car currently requires),
and 73 cents per litre for unleaded. This equates to about $4.37 (US) per US
gallon, and $4.25 (US) per US gallon, respectively. As for LPG (propane), it
is about $0.45 per litre, or $2.62 (US) per US gallon.



>If I lived in an area where gas prices are that high, I would be a lot
>more agressive in my plans for running my Full-Sized Jeep on propane or
>methane.  Right now, there isn't enough of a price advantage.
>
>On Wed, 6 May 1998 00:11:27 +1000 (EST) danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au
>(Danny Barrett) writes:
>>$1 (US) per gallon (US gallon I assume)... You should see what we have
>to
>>pay for it in Oz... about 80 cents (Aus) per litre here in Tasmania.
>This
>>equates to about $4.66 (US) per US gallon!!! In mainland Australia, it
>isn't
>>as expensive, but you're still probably looking at more than $3.80 (US)
>per
>>US Gallon!!! And some people wonder why I'm after a bit better fuel
>economy
>>by trying to catalytically crack the fuel, and make it go further...
>>
>>Danny Barrett.
>>
>>
>>(chopped)
>>>with gasoline at $1 a gallon, its just not worth it.
>>>Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>
>>(chopped)
>>
>>
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 01:34:55 1998
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Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 23:23:52 -0600
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Clint Corbin <ccorbin@Rt66.com>
Subject: Re: Digital Multimeter suggestion wanted
In-Reply-To: <199805060232.WAA23576@web02.globecomm.net>
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At 10:32 PM 5/5/98 -0400, you wrote:
>
>Anything Fluke tends to be good...far more robust than most on the
market...they don't mind mistakes re range settings except obviously
current, they are more expensive than most, but you only buy one and it lasts.
>Have had a Fluke 27 for some years and never a problem. used almost
daily....good test leads too.
>Make sure what ever you get is autoranging and has range hold capability
too, cap test and thermo. sometimes useful, but better to spend money on
quality
>
>Grant

My dad has had a Fluke 4000 series meter for longer than I can remember.
He used to use
it daily, but now only occasionally.   The thing is still working great.  

After moving out (and my dad making me return his meter!), I had to get one
for myself.  I 
had the same decisions to make: save money, or get quality.  A Fluke 87 is
currently sitting
on my dresser now.  The thing has full auto-ranging, frequency, duty-cycle,
true RMS, etc, etc.
I love it!

One other thing to note: I have worked for several companys that use
multimeters and every
single one of them have used Fluke meters EXCLUSIVLY.  A lot of companies
are more than
happy to cut corners where they think they can get away with it.  But Fluke
is still the meter
of choice....  JMTCW.

Clint

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 01:43:32 1998
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From: "Jake Lindeke" <jlindeke@bsfh.org>
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Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 01:49:38 -0400
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if i want to Race in an Naturally Aspirated class, is water injection considered a 
form of aspiration like Turbo, Super chargers, or NOS?
--Jake Lindeke
--SOGI South-East Chapter Coordinator
--http://sesogi.bsfh.org

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 01:51:22 1998
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Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 01:48:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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Subject: Re: Boingers
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> Alain,
> 
> Carbon deposits and the burning of the oil inside the engine 
> have nothing to do with shortened longevity IMHO.  I have seen 
> rotaries at 200,000 miles which ran just fine, which is pretty 
> impressive for such a tiny, high revving engine.  (The hard driven 4 
> banger in my old Honda was pretty much dead at 130).
> 	A very common (if not notorious) cause of premature rotary death 
> (premature meaning, before the 200,000 that you would expect for a 
> well cared for engine), is failure of the eccentric shaft oil bypass 
> valve, which leads to insufficient oil flow through the rotors, 
> overheating of the oil in the rotors (and the rotors themselves), 
> leading to failure of the seals.  R&R of this item is recommended 
> every 50-75k miles by those who know about it, but it is rarely done, 
> probably as a result of ignorance.  This isn't really an engine 
> design fault, it's a maintenance fault.  Just imagine the bad rap 
> that piston engines would get if nobody ever replaced a timing belt, 
> and if 95% of the mechanics who worked on them had no idea what a 
> timing belt was or where it was and no idea why or when it should be 
> replaced... 
> 
> Zack

nice point,i see it's a driver's thing (the durability that is),premixing
2 stroke oil & gas would help in that case but i don't think the average
owner bringing his gas can and his 2 stroke oil bottle at the local fuel
station and mixing thing up be4 puting it in the gas thank (just imagine
how mazda would be losing sale if it required owner doing just that),so a
compromise have to be done and it's not the best either (the valve
thing),about customer ignorance,i can think a lot of thing that consumer
should be doing as maintenance beside oil change,one thing that spring to
mind is radiator maintenance,how much customer know that they should flush
a radiator twice a year and put distilated water in the rad,i've seen much
failure of cooling due to that,and i think overheating is much related to
radiator rusting.

Alain



From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 02:08:43 1998
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From: "Robert Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
Date: Tue, 5 May 1998 23:08:35 -0700
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Not me - there is someone with enthusiasm and who thoroughly enjoys the
prospect who has already run with the ball.  I couldn't even begin to run
fast enough to catch up.  I plan to gleefully follow the leader and if
possible, contribute to the cause.

As for being an expert, the principal has been around for a while and has
been discussed in print, book and previously on this group. SAAB is the
first I know  to go into production with it.

> What can I say - this man obviously understands the principles of
> ion CURRENT
> measurement perfectly well - Bob, why don't you head the
> development team as you
> are such an expert!!!!
>
> I would be interested in joining the ION team, as it is what I
> does anyways.
>
> Tony
>
> --
> Sent By Tony Cooper.
> email: tony.cooper@virgin.net
> Allow at least 10 working minutes for reply. ;)
>
>
>



From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 02:18:05 1998
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Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 00:04:28 -0600
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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TBK wrote:
> 
> Excellent list!
> 
> Any chance you know the two fittings used in the GM power steering pumps? I
> need to connect a 1986 Ciera hose to a 1992 3800 SC pump. It will thread in
> the 92 pump, but I think they are different compression methods. Both pumps
> are the plastic reservoir type. But your list solved the fuel line issue. I
> will cut the plastic quick disconnects off, add the 14/16mm nuts and have
> then double flared again and use female to female hoses. I would just prefer
> to not have gas shooting on the exhaust manifold at 60PSI. Call me a wimp.
> 
> TK
>
I can't say without any certainty what fittings are in your
pumps, but I believe the pressure line is a 16mm X 1.5
saginaw type.  For custom hoses I often cut through the
factory crimp and remove the ends I need, then take them to
someone who makes hydraulic hoses to put them together.

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 03:43:21 1998
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Subject: Re: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
References: <80c9050f.354fea57@aol.com> <35b5f0a1.104949593@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
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Here are some other SAE technical Paper listings that I found doing a
search for " ionization". They may be useful for the DIY Trionic stuff. 

There is also one related to the SAAB direct ignition system in 1989. 

  Document Number: 890044
  Title: Saab direct ignition system and its cold start performance
  Publication Date:1989
  Author(s):Jiewertz, Sten; Klemisch, Bobby; Anderland, Torsten;
Gillbrand, Per S.
  Organization(s):Saab-Scania AB, Sweden; Saab-Scania AB, Sweden;
Saab-Scania AB, Sweden; Saab-Scania AB, Sweden

Check out this one from 1959.......Nuclear dude!

590186
  Title:Engine voltage requirements using spark plugs pre-ionized with
"radioactive" gold
  Publication Date:1959
  Author(s):Gumbleton, J. J.
  Organization(s):Engrg. Staff, General Motors Corp.
________________________________________________________________

ionization search:

  Document Number:980166
  Title:In-cylinder air/fuel ratio approximation using spark gap
ionization sensing
  Publication Date: Feb 1998
  Author(s):Balles, Eric N.; VanDyne, Edward A.; Wahl, Alexandre M.;
Ratton, Kenneth; Lai,Ming-Chia
  Organization(s): Adrenaline Research, Inc.; Adrenaline Research, Inc.;
Adrenaline Research, Inc.; Wayne State Univ.; Wayne State Univ.


  Document Number:980048
  Title:Real-time analysis of particulate matter by flame ionization
detection
  Publication Date: Feb 1998
  Author(s): Kawai, Terunao,; Iuchi, Yutaka; Nakamura, Shigeo; Ishida,
KozoOrganization(s): The University of Shiga Prefecture; Horiba Ltd.;
Horiba Ltd.; Horiba Ltd.Meeting: SAE International Congress and
Exposition

  Document Number:970857
  Title:In-cylinder pressure measurements using the spark plug as an
ionization sensor
  Publication Date:Feb 1997
  Author(s): Saitzkoff, Andr\ae; Reinmann, Raymond; Mauss, Fabian;
Glavmo, Magnus 

  Document Number:970856
  Title:Local air-fuel ratio measurements using the spark plug as an
ionization sensor
  Publication Date: Feb 1997
  Author(s):Reinmann, Raymond; Saitzkoff, Andr\ae; Mauss, Fabian;
Glavmo, Magnus

  Document Number:970507
  Title:Measurements of the effect of in-cylinder motion on flame
development andcycle-to-cycle variations using an ionization probe head
gasket
  Publication Date:Feb 1997
  Author(s):Russ, Stephen; Peet, Gregory; Stockhausen, William
  Organization(s): Ford Motor Co.; Ford Motor Co.; Ford Motor Co.

  Document Number:970854
  Title:Closed loop ignition control by ionization current
interpretation
  Publication Date:Feb 1997
  Author(s):  Eriksson, Lars; Nielsen, Lars; Glavenius, Mikael


  Document Number:961201
  Title:Validation tests for a fast response flame ionization detector
for in-cylinder sampling near the spark plug
  Publication Date:May 1996
  Author(s):Crawford, John G.; Wallace, James S.
  Organization(s):University of Toronto; University of Toronto

  Document Number:960329
  Title:Spark ionization controller for vehicle ignition systems
  Publication Date: Feb 1996
  Author(s):Marlow, C. Allen
  Organization(s):SGS-THOMSON Microelectronics

  Document Number: 960337
  Title: An ionization equilibrium analysis of the spark plug as an
ionization sensor
  Publication Date: Feb 1996
  Author(s):  Saitzkoff, Andr\ae; Reinmann, Raymond; Berglind, Thomas;
Glavmo, Magnus

  Document Number:960045
  Title: Ignition control by ionization current interpretation
  Publication Date:Feb 1996
  Author(s): Eriksson, Lars; Nielsen, Lars; Nytomt, Jan

  Document Number:952458
  Title:Flame propagation and laminar burning velocity measurements in a
cylindrical combustion chamber using particle image 
  Publication Date:Oct 1995
  Author(s):Zhou, M.; Garner, C. P.
  Organization(s): Loughborough University of Technology; Loughborough
University of Technology

  Document Number:950814
  Title:Cycle-by-cycle variations in combustion and mixture
concentration in the vicinity of spark plug gap
  Publication Date:Feb 1995
  Author(s):Lee, Kyung-Hwan; Foster, David E.
  Organization(s): Hyundai Motor Co.; University of Wisconsin
  Document Number:950109
  Title:A model for converting SI engine flame arrival signals into
flame contours
  Publication Date:Feb 1995
  Author(s):Hadjiconstantinou, Nicholas; Heywood, John B.
  Organization(s): MIT; MIT


  Document Number:952541
  Title:Signal reconstruction applied to a fast response flame
ionization detector
  Publication Date:Oct 1995
  Author(s):Summers, T.; Collings, N.



  Document Number:950160
  Title: Modelling the transit time of a fast response flame ionization
detector during in-cylinder sampling
  Publication Date: Feb 1995
  Author(s): Summers, Tim; Collings, Nick

  Document Number:950003
  Title:Engine misfire detection by ionization current monitoring
  Publication Date: Feb 1995
  Author(s):Lee, Anson; Pyko, Jan S.
  Organization(s):Chrysler Corp.; Chrysler Corp.



  Document Number:941987
  Title:Flame shape determination using an optical-fiber spark plug and
a head-gasket ionization probe
  Publication Date:Oct 1994
  Author(s):Salvat, Olivier P.; Cheng, Aldebert S.; Cheng, Wai K.;
Heywood, John B.
  Organization(s):P.S.A. Peugeot Citro\agn; Sloan Automotive Lab.;
Massachusetts Institute of Technology; Sloan Automotive Lab.;
Massachusetts Institute of Technology; Sloan Automotive Lab.;
Massachusetts Institute of Technology


  Document Number:941991
  Title: Combustion imaging in engine using electrical impedance
measurements
  Publication Date: Oct 1994
  Author(s):Beck, C. M.; He, R.; Waterfall, R. C.; Beck, M. S.
  Organization(s):Shell Research Ltd.; University of Manchester
Institute of Science and Technology; University of Manchester Institute
of Science and Technology; University of Manchester Institute of Science
and Technology

  Document Number:930464
  Title:Simultaneous application of optical spark plug probe and head
gasket ionization probe to a production engine
  Publication Date:Mar 1993
  Author(s):Meyer, Roy; Kubesh, John T.; Shahed, S. M.; Davis, J.


  Document Number:930462
  Title:Flame ion density measurement using spark plug voltage analysis
  Publication Date:Mar 1993
  Author(s): Miyata, Shigeru; Ito, Yasuo; Shiwasaki, Yuichi
  Organization(s): NGK Spark Plug Co.; NGK Spark Plug Co.; Honda R&D
Co., Ltd



  Document Number:922236
  Title:Electrohydrodynamic ignition system for S.I. engines
  Publication Date:1992
  Author(s):Hacohen, J.; Belmont, M. R.; Thurley, R. F. W.; Thomas, J.
C.; Morris, E. L.; Buckingham, D. J.
  Organization(s):University of Exeter; University of Exeter; University
of Exeter; University of Exeter; University of
                    Exeter; University of Exeter



  Document Number:932645
  Title:Determining the location of end-gas autoignition using
ionization probes installed in the head gasket
  Publication Date:Oct 1993
  Author(s): Witze, P. O.; Green, R. M.

  Document Number:930390
  Title:Flame location measurements in a production engine using
ionization probes embodied in a printed-circuit-board head gasket
  Publication Date:Mar 1993
  Author(s):Nicholson, D. E.; Witze, P. O.
  Organization(s):
 General Motors Corp.; Sandia National Labs.





  Document Number:910719
  Title: Investigation of in-cylinder fluid motion using a head gasket
instrumented with ionization probes
  Publication Date:1991
  Author(s):Witze, Peter O.; Bopp, Stefan C

  Document Number: 892099
  Title:Cycle-resolved multipoint ionization probe measurements in a
spark- ignition engine
  Publication Date:1989
  Author(s): Witze, Peter O.

  Document Number:885068
  Title:Closed loop control of spark-ignition engines (application to
the fuel system)
  Publication Date: 1988
  Author(s): Lefebvre, C.; Banet, G.; Ecomard, A.
  Meeting: 22nd FISITA Congress (1988), Dearborn, Michigan, USA

  Document Number: 860485
  Title:In-cylinder measurement of combustion characteristics using
ionization sensors
  Publication Date: 1986
  Author(s): Anderson, Robert L.
  Organization(s): Ford Motor Co., Electrical and Electronics Div.,
Dearborn, MI

  Document Number:860635
  Title:Knock detection by means of the spark plug
  Publication Date:1986
  Author(s):Collings, Nick; Dinsdale, Steve; Eade, Derek
  Organization(s):Univ. of Cambridge, U.K.; Univ. of Cambridge, U.K.;
Ford Motor Co., Basildon U.K.

  Document Number:750354
  Title:Significance of burn types, as measured by using the spark plugs
as ionization probes, with respect to the hydrocarbon emission levels in
S.I. engines
  Publication Date:1975
  Author(s):Rado, William G.; Johnson, Wayne J.
  Organization(s):Ford Motor Co.; Ford Motor Co.

  Document Number:730088
  Title: Turbulent flame structure as determined by pressure development
and ionization intensity
  Publication Date:1973
  Author(s): Arrigoni, V.; Calvi, F.; Cornetti, G. M.; Pozzi, U.
  Organization(s): SNAM Progetti (Italy); SNAM Progetti (Italy); SNAM
Progetti (Italy); SNAM Progetti (Italy)
  Meeting: International Automotive Engineering Congress and Exposition

  Document Number:730087
  Title:Relationship of flame front pattern to pressure and high-speed
knock on commercial engines
  Publication Date:1973
  Author(s): Chiampo, P.; de Cristofaro, F.; Gozzelino, R.
  Organization(s): Fiat S.p.A.; Fiat S.p.A.; Fiat S.p.A.
-- 
Scott Mo.
1989 Audi 200TQ
1988 Audi 5000TQ
1984 Audi 4000S
1966 VW Beetle
http://www.teleport.com/~scottmo

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 04:05:55 1998
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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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I've done the ceramic coating at home as well, but I had trouble getting
my cylinder head into the oven, now you lot say you use toaster
ovens....  You Americans must have very big slices of bread...

Rob Humphris

>I took this individuals recommendation and demoted my toaster
>oven from "toaster" to "ceramic coater".
>
>

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>I believe the British made an	engine that did that.
Yea, Aero engines... 12 cylinders ( or more ) with the prop bolted onto
the cylinders, round and round they went, vroooom... all that air flow
over the casing kept it nice and cool.  Not much use in a car though.

>I don't recall seeing any really impressive performance or mileage figures
for the Mazda RX7
As far as I know the displacement of the engine is 1.4litres, and it
gives performance equivalent to a 2.8.  Over in this part of the world
during the 80's Mazda did quite a bit of racing, they had a Group C Le
Mans entry, which I believe used the Rotary Engine, flat out for 24
hours, it went well.

Currently there are one or two mazda's being used over here ( Britian )
for club competetion, the most impressive being the Mazda 121, which is
a European hatchback, which has had a twin rotary engine dropped in the
front.  It runs in the Formula Saloons category ( which is a
derestricted category, any engine size in any car with any mods and any
aerodynamic aids ) and is very competitive.

>Rob Humphris

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 04:53:19 1998
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Date: Tue, 05 May 1998 16:33:43 +0100
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Charles Taylor-iii wrote:

> I am new to the DIY_EFI list and some what new to fuel injection.  And was
> wondering if someone tell me of some good books and literature to read on
> <snip>
>
> Chuck Taylor
> chtaylor@eng.usf.edu
> *******************************'84 Kawasaki 900 Ninja
> * University of South Florida *   7.21 @ 96.37  1/8th mile
> * Mechanical Engineering Dept *  11.37 @ 117.27 1/4 mile
> *  (7 months and counting)    *'80 Kawasaki Z1-R 1000
> *******************************  Restoration project

 Chuck - see you are restoring a Z1R - Excellent - are you gonna fuel inject
it????
I gota GPZ1100B (Early model) with a turbo and efi - goes very well - up to
230hp @ 8500 RPM so far

TTFN
Tony 'All that power through 1 wheel!!!!'

--
Sent By Tony Cooper.
email: tony.cooper@virgin.net
Allow at least 10 working minutes for reply. ;)




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From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: High MPG
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-> Yes, I agree. In fact, I think that if as much time, effort, and
-> money was put into the development of a turbine engine (like the
-> Chrysler one) as has been put into the engines we currently run, the
-> "200 MPG carb" type idea would be a case of "so what!" In the case of
-> the Chrysler turbine, it had a

 Chrysler spent tens of millions of dollars on their turbine, and two
generations of Chrysler engineers tried to make it workable in a car.
Rover, General Motors, and Fiat also poured pounds, dollars, and lira
down the turbine drain.

 There are three problems with turbines.  One is scale; smaller car-size
turbines are less efficient than truck-size or airplane-size turbines.
Another problem is problem is output; the turbine has a high
speed output shaft with a relatively narrow RPM band.  Various schemes
of variable pitch blades, hydraulic couplings, and whatnot were used by
the prototypes.  The third problem is the turbine runs essentially wide
open all the time.  For a 200hp motor the efficiency would be
acceptable; but throttling a turbine back to 25hp for cruise resulted in
dramatic loss of efficiency compared to a conventional engine.

 Chrysler and Rover built driveable prototypes, but throttle response
and fuel consumption were unacceptable.  None of the advances in
computer-aided design, metallurgy, or exotic materials have been enough
to overcome the turbines' problems.

 Fiat and GM built turbine powered trucks for a while, but even scaled
up to that size they were not able to beat the Diesels' lower cost.

==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?
====================================http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm
                          

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 08:22:14 1998
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Subject: RE: DFI: What is the latest version of Calmap software?
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Anyone know what Accel's deal is on updateing from 6.0?

> >>What is the latest version of Calmap software?
> 
> I believe that would be 6.32.
> 
> bill
> 
> 
> 
Randy Braun
'77 C-10 pick-up, DFI-Tuned Port, 350
'82 Firebird, DFI, ZZ3
'91 GTA, Stock

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>I purchased  a small digital handleld high impedence multi meter from
>radio shack for 20 dollars last year. It is smaller than a pack of
>cigarettes including the leads

I have two of the old version of that meter - when instead of a rotary
wheel it had only one button.  I opened both units up, unsoldered and
replaced the leads, with 2' leads with alligator clips on the end.  Great
for wiring harness troubleshooting.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 09:14:09 1998
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From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Digital Multimeter suggestion wanted
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>Aside from their durability, the one thing Fluke meters are noted for 
>is their very high accuracy, which cheaper meters generally can't 
>approach.  When I used to be a physics student, I don't 

I cannot argue with that, while I haven't had it calibrated, it certainly
seems accurate.  However both my Radio Shack bench top model and the old
fluke, at least on the voltage scale, display the same readings for the
same voltage.  I never tested the other scales.

>accuracy is probably not worth the cost, and I would go for the Radio 
>Shack unit.

True, maybe the cost differential on the accuracy is not the best argument
- but the durability sure is.  Being clumsey, I can appreciate how the
fluke "bounces" rather than "dissintegrates".  BTW, I have both meters...
the bench unit I use in the garage and the Fluke goes out of the house -
survives the toolbox.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 09:14:20 1998
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From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Coatings
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>I've done the ceramic coating at home as well, but I had trouble getting
>my cylinder head into the oven, now you lot say you use toaster
>ovens....  You Americans must have very big slices of bread...

Its a "commercial" toaster oven - from a restaurant, able to toast many
slices of bread simultaniously.  I could easily put a pie in it.  My Buick
V6 heads don't quite fit however, even when diagonal.

The heads will be taken to a friend of mine's house... she coated
(different coating) her shorty headers in her oven, so since her oven's
ruined, I might as well leach onto the heat source :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 09:15:08 1998
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Message-ID: <35506319.2903@huron.net>
Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 09:18:17 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
> Subject: Re: Boingers
> 
> >I know a lot of endurance racers run 100:1 2 stroke gas/oil mixture in
> >their Mazdas for this very reason. The engines smoke a bit, but do not
> >wear out.
> 
> 13A-B, or them 3 rotor jobs?, or all?.  Got any clue as to HC/CO
> levels at 100:1..    What block off the oil injection?.  Then just
> premix?.
> Cheers
> Bruce
> >--
> >                               _/\_
> >                       --|-----([])-----|--
> >                         S    0/  \0    B
> >         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
>                     Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
The older RX7 and RX3 for sure - not sure of the later ones. I thought
they did it along with the oil injection, but not sure - goes back a
ways in the memory bank. Apparently with the thermal reactors the HCs
were not too bad.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 09:26:07 1998
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From: "Robert Harris" <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 06:26:00 -0700
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According to my Heywood and others, knock is a physical phenomena that is
accompanied by acoustical noise, a high intensity optical flash, and a sharp
increase in ionization.

The gasses present both before and after ignition are essentially insulators
( that's why it takes 1000's of volts to fire the frigging plug ) and are
relatively non conductive.  Placing a low voltage on the plug - less than
needed to overcome the gas resistance - will result in little current flow.
IF an IONIZATION EVENT occurs, the conductance of the gasses will radically
increase, causing current to flow in the circuit.  This gross change in
current can be interpreted as a knock event - whether it is measured as
voltage or current makes little difference. Of course, I might be
misremembering basic electricity that says if you hold the voltage constant,
and the resistance decreases, current flow increases.  They might have
changes the laws of physics lately to be more fair to the lesser capable
electrons.

Next, with proper sophistication, much more can be determined from analyzing
the effect of a low voltage signal applied across the spark gap and
measuring the signal after ignition.   These areas are of intense interest
to virtually every engine manufacturer or racer.  This includes as I
understand it - cylinder pressure, fuel air mixtures, etc. The use of this
data can result in significant advantages and as such is more closely
guarded than Bill Clintons Bimbo phone list.

For a simple DIY, determining the fact that an IONIZATION event has occurred
suffices. This event of sharp increase in conductivity changes the current
flow at the low voltage on the plug significantly.  It is totally incapable
of rendering most of the additional data that a wazoo guru could extract,
but for those of us trying to get reliable knock detection on an engine that
was never fitted with an acoustic detector or so radically modified that the
fussy little shit no longer functions properly, being able to detect knock
is a MAJOR ADVANCE.

Sorry Mr. Cooper, if our silly ass understanding and plebeian purpose does
not allow us to truly dissect the entrails that your more obvious
sophistication and expectations does.

> What can I say - this man obviously understands the principles of
> ion CURRENT
> measurement perfectly well - Bob, why don't you head the
> development team as you
> are such an expert!!!!



From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 09:58:42 1998
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---------------------- Forwarded by John R Bucknell/JTE/Chrysler on
05/06/98 09:57 AM ---------------------------

From: John R Bucknell on 05/04/98 04:32 PM

To:   owner-diy_efi @ efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc:
Subject:  Re: High MPG

Believe it or not, the Chrysler Patriot project was shelved because it
never got the output necessary to run LeMans.  Don't know the particulars,
but lots of screwball ideas were incorporated: Two-stage turbo-alternators
with combustion chamber preheat, compressed (or was it liquid) natural gas
fuel, super-duper flywheel energy storage, two-speed electric motor with
regenerative braking and massive power switching module.  On top of all
that, pure water was used for cooling of motor and get this: was fluid used
in turbine's journal bearings instead of oil.  I got to see a presentation
by the Patriot team about two years ago, all of two months before the
project was cancelled.

As to thermal efficiency, the limiting factor for turbines in cars is the
temperature delta needed from intake to combustion.  Airliners get away
with it by running way up high where it's cold, but automotive uses would
start from room temperature and the materials needed to run at the same
temperature delta are super expensive.  Reheat has been done with other
methods than the Patriot (which basically had a sleeve around the
combustion chamber where intake air flowed), namely a rotating ceramic grid
that exhaust passed through and then that heat is carried around into the
intake stream.  Problem was sealing the exhaust gases away from the intake.
But it did work, doubling fuel economy for of all things LeMans (1972?).
Still was way underpowered with miserable throttle response.  So reheat
works for thermal efficiency, but not for output.
---------------------- Forwarded by John R Bucknell/JTE/Chrysler on
05/04/98 03:49 PM ---------------------------
                                                                  
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Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu @ SMTP

To:   diy_efi @ efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu @ SMTP
cc:
Subject:  Re: High MPG

Yes, I agree. In fact, I think that if as much time, effort, and money was
put into the development of a turbine engine (like the Chrysler one) as has
been put into the engines we currently run, the "200 MPG carb" type idea
would be a case of "so what!" In the case of the Chrysler turbine, it had a
very ingeneous heat transfer drvice that recycled otherwise wasted heat
from
the exhaust to the intake, thereby making the engine more efficient (this
is
a bit more difficult with the IC engine to say the least - basically, it
has
to be stored as chemical potential energy within the fuel, and this can
only
be done by chemically altering the fuel with an endothermic reaction). The
problem that I can see with the heat exchanger is that it didn't exchange
enough of the exhaust heat. Obviously, if it exchanged more, with a greater
efficiency, the engine would be more efficient - it's basic thermodynamics,
and it's even given a name - "Regenerative cycle" ie. recycle waste heat
energy to raise the efficiency of the engine. And guess what... It's
easiest
to do with some sort of turbine. Perhaps someone should revisit the old
Chrisler engine and make the heat exchanger more efficient???

Danny Barrett.


>>Something you mentioned: I know of Charles Nelson Pogue's "200 MPG carb."
>>And I know about the chemistry of how it worked, and why its results were
>>not very reliable (I know more about the chemistry of it than he did at
the
>>time - but this doesn't take much). Asside from this, Pogue stated in an
>
>Unfortunately, these kind of devices and technology are basically bandaids
>to a much greater problem, one of great inefficiency.  A pushrod engine is
>about as ineffecient as an engine can get, however it does have its
merits.
> I think once engineers start moving away from a 100 year old design,
>things will definately get better mileage wise.  I don't have the URLs
>handy, however there are two such engines that have strayed away from
>pushrods, but replacing the rotating assembly with a giant Cam.  The cam,
>instead of controlling valve timing, is driven by the pistons, which are
>configured in a radial fashion.  The one engine that is running (and in
the
>internet), creates very little horsepower, however the torque it generates
>phenominal as compared to its weight, size, and configuration.
>
>I think pushrod engines waste something in the neighborhood of 80% of the
>available power in the gasoline.
>
>
>Frederic Breitwieser
>Bridgeport, CT 06606
>
>Homebrew Automotive Website:
>http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
>
>1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
>1989 HMMWV
>2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
>
>-
>
>





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AAD//wD/AP//////AAAAgAAAAIAAgIAAAACAgACAAICAwMDAwNzApsrw//vwoKCkgICA/wAAAP8A
//8AAAD//wD/AP//////AAAAgAAAAIAAgIAAAACAgACAAICAwMDAwNzApsrw//vwoKCkgICA/wAA
AP8A//8AAAD//wD/AP//////AAAAgAAAAIAAgIAAAACAgACAAICAwMDAwNzApsrw//vwoKCkgICA
/wAAAP8A//8AAAD//wD/AP//////AAAAgAAAAIAAgIAAAACAgACAAICAwMDAwNzApsrw//vwoKCk
gICA/wAAAP8A//8AAAD//wD/AP//////AAAAgAAAAIAAgIAAAACAgACAAICAwMDAwNzApsrw//vw
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AICAwMDAwNzApsrw//vwoKCkgICA/wAAAP8A//8AAAD//wD/AP//////AAAAgAAAAIAAgIAAAACA
gACA//vwoKCkgICA/wAAAP8A//8AAAD//wD/AP//////

--0__=x9x1UDdDdu6JFy4eSGMmp2i5iUFu2EhjCGwEiuVbhpQfcUmKiB1eonTz--


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 10:01:35 1998
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cyberdrive.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Boingers
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 09:57:34 -0400
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The race car guys don't use the oil metering pump, just the 100:1 premix
with 2 stroke oil.  Castor oil or a good racing 2 stroke synthetic is the
ticket.  Its more reliable that way.  Also, the metering pump works like a 2
stroke meter, the oil volume is proportional to the throttle.  When the
throttle is lifted at high rpm, there is not enough oil injected.
Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

>From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
>
>>I know a lot of endurance racers run 100:1 2 stroke gas/oil mixture in
>>their Mazdas for this very reason. The engines smoke a bit, but do not
>>wear out.
>
>13A-B, or them 3 rotor jobs?, or all?.  Got any clue as to HC/CO
>levels at 100:1..    What block off the oil injection?.  Then just
>premix?.
>Cheers
>Bruce



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From: Terry Sare <Terry_Sare@dell.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Message-Id: <@m400gw.dell.com>
Subject: RE: Digital Multimeter suggestion wanted
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I used a Fluke 8060A ($325) at home for 15 years till the A/D went belly up.
Bought a 29.95 from the local electronic store the other day and it had all
sorts of options. Accurate enough for the house. For work, I bought Tektronics
DVM -- they speced better than the Fluke and were cheaper (umm, bought 25k worth
of equipment at the same time so got a good discount :-) )

Overall, the accuracy of DVMs is good enough that a cheapy will do for home use.
However, they won't survive the abuse the high dollar ones will. And no, of
course I have never, ever misconnected a meter, no, never! :-)


Terry Sare

PS: Just switched to outlook -- please tell me if this has the MS crap attached!
-----Original Message-----
From:     diy_efi-owner@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu at dell_unix
Sent:     Wednesday, May 06, 1998 9:12 AM
To:     Sare, Terry; diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu at dell_unix
Subject:     RE: Digital Multimeter suggestion wanted

>Aside from their durability, the one thing Fluke meters are noted for
>is their very high accuracy, which cheaper meters generally can't
>approach.  When I used to be a physics student, I don't

I cannot argue with that, while I haven't had it calibrated, it certainly
seems accurate.  However both my Radio Shack bench top model and the old
fluke, at least on the voltage scale, display the same readings for the
same voltage.  I never tested the other scales.

>accuracy is probably not worth the cost, and I would go for the Radio
>Shack unit.

True, maybe the cost differential on the accuracy is not the best argument
- but the durability sure is.  Being clumsey, I can appreciate how the
fluke "bounces" rather than "dissintegrates".  BTW, I have both meters...
the bench unit I use in the garage and the Fluke goes out of the house -
survives the toolbox.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 10:34:10 1998
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Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 10:37:16 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
> >I've done the ceramic coating at home as well, but I had trouble getting
> >my cylinder head into the oven, now you lot say you use toaster
> >ovens....  You Americans must have very big slices of bread...
> 
> Its a "commercial" toaster oven - from a restaurant, able to toast many
> slices of bread simultaniously.  I could easily put a pie in it.  My Buick
> V6 heads don't quite fit however, even when diagonal.
> 
> The heads will be taken to a friend of mine's house... she coated
> (different coating) her shorty headers in her oven, so since her oven's
> ruined, I might as well leach onto the heat source :)
> 
> Frederic Breitwieser
> Bridgeport, CT 06606
> 
> Homebrew Automotive Website:
> http://www.xephic.dynip.com/
> 
> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
> 1989 HMMWV
> 2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car
> 
> -
Ya need a toster oven for "texas toast"
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 10:37:38 1998
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Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 00:37:19 +1000
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: re: Water injection and racing & more
In-Reply-To: <199805060544.BAA06140@soleil.acomp.usf.edu>
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At 01:49  6/05/98 -0400, you wrote:
>if i want to Race in an Naturally Aspirated class, is water injection
considered a 
>form of aspiration like Turbo, Super chargers, or NOS?
>--Jake Lindeke
>--SOGI South-East Chapter Coordinator
>--http://sesogi.bsfh.org

No, there are set formula for working out the "effective" capacity of
forced induction engine in any racing class...  

eg trubo engines are considered to have a capacity 1.7 x the capacity of
the engine

no formula exists for water injection, and it is not often used.  I would
think there would be good reason for this too  :)


I pit for an EH Holden Appendix J race car (amongst other things)  and this
car is limited to only drum brakes all around, And cooling ducts alone were
not enough.  After taking notice at truck racing events we decided that
water injection directly onto the brake drums was the go, and it has proven
to be.  I would have rather injected through a fine spraying garden fitting
etc, at the opening of the air duct, so that the water would be vaporised
by the time it actually got to the drum/lining, and would rather cool the
air onto the brakes a little more.

any way, at the moment the driver has to manually push a switch mounted on
the steering wheel to get the water to squirt.  I had the idea of a simple
timer that would count the time the brake pedal was depressed for, and
after letting off the brake squirt the water for this same amount of time.

ie. the driver brakes for 3 seconds...  the water then squirts for 3 seconds

would any one be able to design a circuit like this, or have one that might
do the job?

your help would be greatly appreciated   :)


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 10:40:22 1998
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Subject: Re: Fuel Injection Design
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 10:43:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <Pine.GSO.3.96.980506001502.11771B-100000@suntan> from "Charles Taylor-iii" at May 6, 98 00:48:17 am
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> 
> I do have a dyno result for the bike, and the results are at the rear
> wheel so it would account for losses.  The run I have is not the greatest

no these results include the losses
but the torque peak should be at the same approx RPM
because you are using rear wheel figures add about 10% to the low end and 25%
to the high end on the airflow calcs ( should be a curve with slighly
log type increasing slope at the high end (rotational losses are not linear
they increase logrithmically with RPM)

> run it was taking when I was working out the bugs in the bike, will redo
> here shortly.  Max torque occurred at 6800 RPM with 55.2 ft-lbs, bike
> redlines at 10500.  You say that VE(I assume this is volumetric
> efficiency) should be around 110% to 120%, book I have says around 75% for
> a stock motorcycle engine  in good condition.  I am using a stock engine
> and assuming good condition.  I am not completely sure if I understand how
> you say to get the air consumption curve.

the 75% is for a very stock type blah type engine
a stock 900 cc bike that redlines at 10.5 K is not a stock bike
you may find the real VE numbers by asking someone who has done a lot of tuning
on these for a stock racing class
on your bike I would use 110% for VE, it is a pretty wild ride stock
and if you guess to large you will be too rich (ok) instead of too lean (melt
parts)

> You say:
> "multiply the RPM x air comsumed at RPM x VE at RPM x frictional loss
> correction to get an air comsuption curve"
> Since I have the torque curve then I should multiply 
> (RPM)(Volume one cylinder)(VE)  Where VE would be the torque at that RPM
> 				but in percent form??
> 
> So at the 6800 RPM from my dyno run I would have this for 908cc engine:
> (6800)(227cc)(.552)=852067cc/min
6800x227x1.1 = 1697960 cc/min ~ 170l /min

then plt this result against the loss curve (say 15% at this RPM)
so you need an addtional 17.6% (1/.85) or about 200 l/min

> And then for each point along the torque curve do the same thing??  And
yes
> this will give me an air consumption curve.
exactly

> Am I on the right track?
pretty close

> Or do I use the torque curve and say that the max of the curve is what I
> say the Max VE is and then slice it into parts and compare it against the
> RPM.  This way the air consumtion at 6800 RPM would be(assuming VEmax=75):
> (6800)(227cc)(.75)=1157700cc/min
> Then at each RPM spot I would chose what the VE would be according to the
> VEmax being 75.  

yes but the VE max will be close to 110% see above

slice the curve up in 100 RPM increments
this will give you ~100 useful points

once you have the airflow curve
you can calculate the fuel curve to suit

> Appreciate the help.  Don't spam me too hard I am trying to learn this
> stuff but have yet to find the books that explain a lot of what I need.
> Thanks


Clive 

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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
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They might have change the laws of physics lately to be more fair to the
lesser capable
electrons.

Ah! You have found this out. Apparently due to all the electronic
circuitry that there is now in use both in this and other Solar systems
( watch the skies kids ), a new set of cheaper electrons had to be made
available, these are the type that are found in those Chinese batteries
that you seem to find at low cost.  Of course due to the typical lack of
planning that our worlds Governments always have, the cheap and low
quality electrons have spilled out and now have mixed with the standard
ISO 9099 type electrons, which means that occasionally you get 'lumps'
of crap electrons.  This is why circuits stop working, computers crash,
and my alarm clock is too quiet in the mornings.

I hope that I have been help and have cleared up any problems, for
further reading try:  "The Shite Electron Phenomina" by Oxford
University Press.  Or the pamphlet "Damn Cheap filthy Commie
Electricity" Which is distributed by a Militia near you.

Rob Humphris Keeper of the Cone Shaped Electron

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 11:04:39 1998
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From: "M&D" <91coupe@bellsouth.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Boingers
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 11:10:25 -0400
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You can block off the oil injection and premix, use a small efi pump and
2-cycle oil to feed a relocated oil metering pump, whatever. Racing rotaries
go to extremes and therefore their engineering solutions can be extreme too.
This really screws up the emissions on a street car, and can clog your cat
converter. The stock cats are very prone to clogging anyway, and
restrictive. That's why you can see almost 40% power increase just from
upgrading the exhaust. BTW, I have a combined total of 400,000 miles on 3
rotary engines and have never had carbon fouling problems, at least that I
could see with a borescope.

To the person claiming no significant performance or mileage benefit from a
rotary: (with aftermarket exhaust) 225 HP at the flywheel, naturally
aspirated, in 1.3 liters of displacement in a 2500 lb. car. 18-25 mpg
depending on driving style. The mpg is similar to a V8, as is the power, but
a 13B engine can be easily lifted by 2 men (about 300 lbs., with all the
accessories still attached).  That alone is a significant advantage over a
V8. With attached turbo, rotaries are reliably running up to 400 hp on the
street. Mileage remains similar. Can you say that for a 400HP piston engine?

Mind you all, I have nothing against piston engines, it's just that they are
WAY antiquated and it's time we come up with something else. I personally
favor a small turbine running a generator, and thence electric motors. Like
the APU from an airplane, but smaller. Piston engines have so much friction
and reciprocating loss it's just unbelievable.

Michael Harrington
91coupe@bellsouth.net and http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/downs/4038
91 RX-7 Coupe "Pearl" w/ some mods
88 RX-7 T2 "Beast" sitting in carport :(
N3WJE Technician+ Ham

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, May 05, 1998 11:21 PM
Subject: Re: Boingers


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
>Subject: Re: Boingers
>
>
>
>>I know a lot of endurance racers run 100:1 2 stroke gas/oil mixture in
>>their Mazdas for this very reason. The engines smoke a bit, but do not
>>wear out.
>
>13A-B, or them 3 rotor jobs?, or all?.  Got any clue as to HC/CO
>levels at 100:1..    What block off the oil injection?.  Then just
>premix?.
>Cheers
>Bruce
>>--
>>                               _/\_
>>                       --|-----([])-----|--
>>                         S    0/  \0    B
>>         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
>                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 11:06:37 1998
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From: Don Berry <donbe@microsoft.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
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Subject: RE: Coatings
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		One possible alternative is a outdoor barbecue. Some are
quite large and will easily fit a cylinder head. Another source is your
local powder coating source. They bake large objects all the time.

		Don

< Frederic Breitwieser wrote>

The heads will be taken to a friend of mine's house... she coated
(different coating) her shorty headers in her oven, so since her oven's
ruined, I might as well leach onto the heat source :)




From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 11:06:37 1998
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From: Don Berry <donbe@microsoft.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>,
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Subject: RE: Coatings
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		One possible alternative is a outdoor barbecue. Some are
quite large and will easily fit a cylinder head. Another source is your
local powder coating source. They bake large objects all the time.

		Don

< Frederic Breitwieser wrote>

The heads will be taken to a friend of mine's house... she coated
(different coating) her shorty headers in her oven, so since her oven's
ruined, I might as well leach onto the heat source :)




From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 11:40:08 1998
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From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Boingers
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On Wed, 6 May 1998, Robert Humphris wrote:

> 
> >I believe the British made an	engine that did that.
> Yea, Aero engines... 12 cylinders ( or more ) with the prop bolted onto
> the cylinders, round and round they went, vroooom... all that air flow
> over the casing kept it nice and cool.  Not much use in a car though.
> 

I must have missed that one in my searches...all the rotary engines I know
of were single row radials with 7 cylinders. Any more info on the 12
cylinder [or more] item?

Jim Davies



From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 11:56:15 1998
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If you have a friend who does
pottery you might ask to use their
kiln (sp?).  They're plenty large
enough and probably capable of
400F too...with a bit to spare. :)

Just a thought,
-greg



From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 11:57:36 1998
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David wrote:
> 
> The current Radio Shack sale flyer has two Digital Multimeters listed.
> 
> The first is model 22-174ue for $ 69.99
> 
> It features are True RMS.  Can be used to check temperature F or C.  True
> RMS for accurate AC readings.  Measures frequencies up to 2MHz, capacitance,
> transistor gain, even shown NPN/PNP polarity and E-B-C pinout on display.
> Autoranging.  Includes temperature probe.
> 
> The second model is $ 44.99 (after $ 5.00 coupon in flyer).  Model 22-178ue.
> 
> It features autoranging, continuous buzzer, 20 amp AC and DC ranges.  Diode
> check.
> 
> Both run on two AA batteries.
> 
> I am not well versed on this stuff.  I believe you need a digital multimeter
> to measure a lot of the EFI stuff.

I have a Radio shack DMM, I'm not sure what the model number is.  I'd
recommend the first model.  Either would probably work for diagnosing
car type work, but if you plan on building any circuits like the 332
project, or even the EGO or ION projects on this list you'll appreciate
the frequency measurement and capacitor measurement.  Temp probe, well,
that probably has a use also.

--steve


--
Steve Ravet
International Meta Systems
http://www.imes.com
steve@imes.com

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 12:16:07 1998
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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
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On Wed, 6 May 1998, Robert Humphris wrote:

> 
> They might have change the laws of physics lately to be more fair to the
> lesser capable
> electrons.
> 
> Ah! You have found this out. Apparently due to all the electronic
> circuitry that there is now in use both in this and other Solar systems
> ( watch the skies kids ), a new set of cheaper electrons had to be made
> available, these are the type that are found in those Chinese batteries
> that you seem to find at low cost.  Of course due to the typical lack of
> planning that our worlds Governments always have, the cheap and low
> quality electrons have spilled out and now have mixed with the standard
> ISO 9099 type electrons, which means that occasionally you get 'lumps'
> of crap electrons.  This is why circuits stop working, computers crash,
> and my alarm clock is too quiet in the mornings.
> 
This could be the JCWhitney effect. I notice they sell a magnetic clip-on
fuel conditioner for your car, guaranteed not to rust, bust or grow hair.
Now, many "legitimate" sources for such devices exist of course, but what
is truly wonderful about the JCWhitney version is that they have
*discovered* that fuel molecules clump together and by seperating them
oxygen will be able to reach them in the cylinder, with many wondrous
benefits. I will order one just as soon as my horoscope is favorible...

Kim Davies



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Subject: Re: In car oil refinery, run by EFI.
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Have you ever seen what happens when a catalytic cracker 
lets go?  The explosion is horrific.  We had a refiner
explosion in the San pedro area of socal a few years 
ago and it broke windows for miles.  And you want one in
your back seat!  Nutty

paul timmerman

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 12:55:19 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 09:56:00 -0700
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On Wed, 6 May 1998 15:44:58 +0100, Robert Humphris
<r.humphris@indigo-avs.com> wrote:

>Rob Humphris Keeper of the Cone Shaped Electron

Oh, no; there goes the neighborhood.  B)

Gar


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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cyberdrive.net>
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Subject: Re: Boingers
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I know there are twin row 18 cyl radial engines.
Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

>> >I believe the British made an engine that did that.
>> Yea, Aero engines... 12 cylinders ( or more ) with the prop bolted onto
>> the cylinders, round and round they went, vroooom... all that air flow
>> over the casing kept it nice and cool.  Not much use in a car though.
>> 
>
>I must have missed that one in my searches...all the rotary engines I know
>of were single row radials with 7 cylinders. Any more info on the 12
>cylinder [or more] item?
>
>Jim Davies
>


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Zack wrote:

> Aside from their durability, the one thing Fluke meters are noted for
> is their very high accuracy, which cheaper meters generally can't
> approach.  When I used to be a physics student, I don't
> think I saw anything -but- Fluke in use around labs,

High accuracy stuff is usually Hewlett Packard over here, but Flukes are
excellent, they just get on and do their job. I've used verious ones for
a decade or so with few (if any problems) but then, I have used a cheap
(no-name) one for about the same, with the only problems being the test
leads. As for the $20 one- buy it, if it doesn't do what you want then
you haven't wasted a fortune and you will know more about how to use a
DMM.

Mike.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 13:09:08 1998
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From: Mike <zeus@myth.demon.co.uk>
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Danny Barrett wrote:
> 
> Already done - The Nisan GTR, affectionately known as "GODZILLA" in Australia...
> 
> >For you performance car fans, the computer could use the steering wheel
> >position, acceleration sensors, etc. to determine how much torque to put
> >to each wheel for ideal traction when cornering.  

The new BMWs have it too (ESC-Electronic Stability Control), and the
bigger Mercs (the A Series also have it now...) have something called
ESP. I like my rear wheel bias 4WD (Ford) Sierra though, very difficult
to get out of shape but still power-driftable if you know what you are
doing.

Mike



From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 13:11:00 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 10:11:44 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Wed, 6 May 1998 06:26:00 -0700, "Robert Harris"
<bob@bobthecomputerguy.com> wrote:

>According to my Heywood and others, knock is a physical phenomena that is
>accompanied by acoustical noise, a high intensity optical flash, and a sharp
>increase in ionization.

Don't forget also the possible impulse debits to you bank account!

>Next, with proper sophistication, much more can be determined from analyzing
>the effect of a low voltage signal applied across the spark gap and
>measuring the signal after ignition.   These areas are of intense interest
>to virtually every engine manufacturer or racer.  This includes as I
>understand it - cylinder pressure, fuel air mixtures, etc. The use of this
>data can result in significant advantages and as such is more closely
>guarded than Bill Clintons Bimbo phone list.

Actually, I have another theory, as EGOR is my witness; I think the
stuff isn't kept all that secret, so much as it IS patented usually, so
anyone trying to make immediate commercial use of it is stymied for a
time. Other than outright laziness and lack of greed on the part of
aftermarket mfgs (the former I *might* believe, but not the latter B), I
see no other explanation for the fact that the 5-wire sensor and
circuitry has been pretty available in both the SAE papers from NTK and
the cars from HONDA. I'll bet we're gonna find the same thang is true
with ION, and that for us DIYers with no major cash cow involved in the
hunt, it's a veritable gold mine of opportunities for good clean fun
(well, maybe not so clean).

>Sorry Mr. Cooper, if our silly ass understanding and plebeian purpose does
>not allow us to truly dissect the entrails that your more obvious
>sophistication and expectations does.

Hey, lemme get real serious for a moment and suggest you two knock this
off pronto. I dunno what personal things are detonating between the two
of you, and it isn't my business, and you're entitled to not care for
each other; I understand real well everybody can't love everybody else,
so I'm not askin nor expecting that. BUT please keep your fisticuffs
outta ION's face, OK? Any more of these kinda potshots tacked onto an
otherwise useful post, and yous guys are gonna get on my shit list real
fast [yeah yeah, I know, 'be still my beating heart']. A toothless
threat no doubt, but since yous guys are obviously mature, I can see
you're not open to "incentives" and offers of candy to play nice. Hence,
the growl. Nough said, OK? Let's rejoin the fun stuff already in
progress, PULLEAZE.

Remember, ION's a lady; so gentlemen, I know you'll wanna take it
outside.

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 13:23:24 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 10:24:08 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Wed, 06 May 1998 10:11:44 -0700, garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:

>Other than outright laziness and lack of greed on the part of
>aftermarket mfgs (the former I *might* believe, but not the latter B), I
>see no other explanation for the fact that the 5-wire sensor and
>circuitry has been pretty available in both the SAE papers from NTK and
>the cars from HONDA. I'll bet we're gonna find the same thang is true
>with ION, and that for us DIYers with no major cash cow involved in the
>hunt, it's a veritable gold mine of opportunities for good clean fun

RATS, I left out one key phrase and ruined the dramatic element
considerably. Lemme rewrite one sentence above to make the point I
intended.
	"the 5-wire sensor and cicuitry has been pretty available in both
	 SAE papers from NTK and the cars from Honda FOR MANY YEARS".

The Ionization papers and car stuff has also been around from Saab for
nearly a DECADE!! Dudes, this isn't NEW stuff, nor a well-kept secret,
was my theory/point.

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 13:41:28 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Whattza Holden?.
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 13:41:53 -0400
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For the unlucky blokes that can't get em (usa), have a look at 
http://www.thrasher-ep.com
they are a neat car.  Are these the ones the 808 ecm is used
in the SS, and SHV (?).  Is that engine the same inside as 
our (USA) small block chevy?.  

Public Service Announcement:

Cone Shaped Hat HQ is also one step closer to being able
to dim the neighborhood lights by bench racing ecms.
No worries here!!
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 13:59:32 1998
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Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 13:57:17 -0400
From: Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
Subject: turbos, VE's etc...
To: DIY_EFI <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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I'm pretty close to putting the turbos onto the Camaro. I do have some
fuel/timing curves for the DFI, but they are all supercharged. How do
you figure out the VE of a turbo engine? I've got dyno and airflow
charts of the camaro when it was naturally aspirated, and figured out a
VE that way, but wouldn't adding a turbo skew the graph instead of just
raising it by the pressure ratio? 

Another question is about the downpipe sizing. I'm running twin T04E
.58AR turbos on a smallblock chevy. I plan on having 450 hp right off
the bat, and eventually up to 700 hp. I've heard different theories on
downpipe design. One was that you should increase the diameter right
after the turbo, to stop the spinning, and then make your 90 degree
turn. Someone mentioned that the spiraling exhasut gasses creat much
more backpressure in a bend than straight flowing gasses. Space is
pretty tight under the hood of the camaro, and the smaller diameter I
can safely (efficiently use) the better. The turbo outlet has a 3"
opening, and I was planning on using 2.25 or 2.5" pipes max. Is this
concept a big deal, or can I just neck it down right outside the turbos?
Thanks for the insights!

Andris

PS-I checked the archives, but there wasn't anything listed for the
exhasut...

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 14:04:31 1998
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	Does anyone have any recommendations for software for
engine performance simulation that includes turbos and
intercoolers?  hopefully not too expensive either...

paul timmerman

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 14:05:01 1998
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Subject: Re: Boingers
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 14:08:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <Pine.A41.3.96.980506083742.28716A-100000@vcc11.vcc.bc.ca> from "Jim Davies" at May 6, 98 08:40:04 am
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> > 
> > >I believe the British made an	engine that did that.
> > Yea, Aero engines... 12 cylinders ( or more ) with the prop bolted onto
> > the cylinders, round and round they went, vroooom... all that air flow
> > over the casing kept it nice and cool.  Not much use in a car though.
> 
> I must have missed that one in my searches...all the rotary engines I know
> of were single row radials with 7 cylinders. Any more info on the 12
> cylinder [or more] item?
> 
> Jim Davies


they cam with 5, 6, 7, 9 cyl in one row
or 2 row models up to 18 cyl
not all of these are rotaing block types
most were rotating crank

the bearing loads on a this amount of rataign mass were unbeleivable

Clive 
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 14:24:34 1998
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Subject: Re: Water injection and racing & more
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 14:27:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <3.0.5.32.19980507003719.007a2b00@mail.qonline.com.au> from "Matthew Harding" at May 7, 98 00:37:19 am
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> 
> eg trubo engines are considered to have a capacity 1.7 x the capacity of
> the engine
and we all no that turbo engine can put out 1.7x what a NA model can ;)

> not enough.  After taking notice at truck racing events we decided that
> water injection directly onto the brake drums was the go, and it has proven
> to be.  I would have rather injected through a fine spraying garden fitting
> 
> any way, at the moment the driver has to manually push a switch mounted on
> the steering wheel to get the water to squirt.  I had the idea of a simple
> timer that would count the time the brake pedal was depressed for, and
> after letting off the brake squirt the water for this same amount of time.
> ie. the driver brakes for 3 seconds...  the water then squirts for 3 seconds


defintely not a good idea
it the driver brakes for say 30 sec for some reason ( sudden obstuction,i
 traffici pile up etc.) and you geta 30s squirt after there would probably
be water running all over the tires, affecting traction

better might be to use an IR sensor to measure berrake temp. placed just
before the squirt zone, spray until the sensor say the temp is OK again
no timer involved
just a simple driver to fire the pump up
 
> would any one be able to design a circuit like this, or have one that might
> do the job?

Clive 
?

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 14:34:48 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: 747 meet 730, 730 meet 165
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 14:35:15 -0400
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Has anyone any experience with running 2 ecms off the same 
inputs?.  ie would they have enough "impedance" to share inputs?
or would they do something strange?.  The outputs would be 
loaded independently of each other, as far as driving any loads,
it would all be run off a small motorcycle battery.  Was just
going to use some resistors (like 20 ohm for the injectors),
and hook up a ignition module with a 20 dummy load on it also.
  If this is unknown ground can anyone give me a list of things
that might go wrong.
  I can almost smell the smoke now
Bruce       Glad I scotch guarded all my Cone Shaped Hats 
                 the other day.    


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From: Michael Kasimirsky <mtk@tmc.astm.cmri.cmu.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Water injection and racing & more
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 14:51:13 -0400 
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[...details of watering brake drums deleted...]

Well, I don't know what kind of racing you are doing, but most racing
organizations would black flag you, and rightfully so, for spraying
water where it can fall on the track.  If this is dirt then just forget
I mentioned anything, but spraying fluids on pavement creates a VERY
dangerous situation for the competitors behind you.

What this has to do with DIY-EFI I don't know, but I road race
motorcycles and ideas like this scare the crap out of me.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 14:57:43 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
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Subject: Re: Engine Simulation SW
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 14:58:12 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: ptimmerm@mashtun.JPL.NASA.GOV <ptimmerm@mashtun.JPL.NASA.GOV>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, May 06, 1998 2:51 PM
Subject: Engine Simulation SW

> Does anyone have any recommendations for software for
>engine performance simulation that includes turbos and
>intercoolers?  hopefully not too expensive either...
>
>paul timmerman
>
Up until I trashed it when changing computers, had a program
called Drag Strip Plus.  Was from Martel Brothers down in
Texas.  Was well within a .1 and by fudging on converter
slippage was dead on a NA car.  Was less than $100, and
had 3 levels of intercoolers, boost, allowed for sedan, fastback,
body styles.  Different tranny gearing. rear end gears, header
diameters, etc.
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 15:22:17 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: In car oil refinery, run by EFI.
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Actually, under the bonnet (or hood if you're American)...


>Have you ever seen what happens when a catalytic cracker 
>lets go?  The explosion is horrific.  We had a refiner
>explosion in the San pedro area of socal a few years 
>ago and it broke windows for miles.  And you want one in
>your back seat!  Nutty
>
>paul timmerman
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 15:27:21 1998
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Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V3 #193
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Actually, a man in South Australia has a home made device that he has in his
GTR that allows him to CHANGE the bias of his car. He can get it to be rear
bias, front bias, or none at all...

Danny Barrett.


>Danny Barrett wrote:
>> 
>> Already done - The Nisan GTR, affectionately known as "GODZILLA" in
Australia...
>> 
>> >For you performance car fans, the computer could use the steering wheel
>> >position, acceleration sensors, etc. to determine how much torque to put
>> >to each wheel for ideal traction when cornering.  
>
>The new BMWs have it too (ESC-Electronic Stability Control), and the
>bigger Mercs (the A Series also have it now...) have something called
>ESP. I like my rear wheel bias 4WD (Ford) Sierra though, very difficult
>to get out of shape but still power-driftable if you know what you are
>doing.
>
>Mike
>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 15:31:54 1998
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Subject: Re: Boingers
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There was even a single bank 6cyl radial engine made in South Australia
(inventive fellows these South Australians). Don't ask me how he got it to
work... I can't figure it out. Obviously there's something funny going on
with the spark... Anyway, the fellow powered a home made plane from it. The
engine was found a few years ago, and restored, and put in a museum, from
what I'm told. Just a bit of trivia...

Danny Barrett.

>I know there are twin row 18 cyl radial engines.
>Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>
>
>>> >I believe the British made an engine that did that.
>>> Yea, Aero engines... 12 cylinders ( or more ) with the prop bolted onto
>>> the cylinders, round and round they went, vroooom... all that air flow
>>> over the casing kept it nice and cool.  Not much use in a car though.
>>> 
>>
>>I must have missed that one in my searches...all the rotary engines I know
>>of were single row radials with 7 cylinders. Any more info on the 12
>>cylinder [or more] item?
>>
>>Jim Davies
>>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 15:33:01 1998
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I've only seen one radial that bolted the Crank to the
firewall and mounted the prop to the cylinders. It was a
Biplane from 1910 + or - 2 years. I actually saw it give a
demo flight. The rotating cylinders required a very short
exhaust pipe, and it really barked when it ran.

	If you want to see one it was at the rhienbech Airodrome in
Rheinbech, NY. During the summer months they actually put on
weekend shows where you can see WWI and earlier aircraft
fly.

		Ken

Clive Apps Techno-Logicals 416 510 0020 wrote:
> 
> > >
> > > >I believe the British made an      engine that did that.
> > > Yea, Aero engines... 12 cylinders ( or more ) with the prop bolted onto
> > > the cylinders, round and round they went, vroooom... all that air flow
> > > over the casing kept it nice and cool.  Not much use in a car though.
> >
> > I must have missed that one in my searches...all the rotary engines I know
> > of were single row radials with 7 cylinders. Any more info on the 12
> > cylinder [or more] item?
> >
> > Jim Davies
> 
> they cam with 5, 6, 7, 9 cyl in one row
> or 2 row models up to 18 cyl
> not all of these are rotaing block types
> most were rotating crank
> 
> the bearing loads on a this amount of rataign mass were unbeleivable
> 
> Clive
> >


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 15:36:47 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
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>From what I'm told, the Holden V8 is a completely Australian designed engine
(but I could have been told a heap of crap...). As for the V6, I believe it
is a Buick. However, with the "Ecotec" V6, it is basically loosely designed
on the previous Buick re-hash, and not, in reality the same engine, although
the cubic displacement is still nominally 3.8L.


>For the unlucky blokes that can't get em (usa), have a look at 
>http://www.thrasher-ep.com
>they are a neat car.  Are these the ones the 808 ecm is used
>in the SS, and SHV (?).  Is that engine the same inside as 
>our (USA) small block chevy?.  
>
>Public Service Announcement:
>
>Cone Shaped Hat HQ is also one step closer to being able
>to dim the neighborhood lights by bench racing ecms.
>No worries here!!
>Bruce
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 16:00:04 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: turbos, VE's etc...
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 16:00:26 -0400
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From: Andris Skulte <askulte@emerald.tufts.edu>
To: DIY_EFI <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, May 06, 1998 3:05 PM
Subject: turbos, VE's etc...


>I'm pretty close to putting the turbos onto the Camaro. I do have some
>fuel/timing curves for the DFI, but they are all supercharged. How do
>you figure out the VE of a turbo engine?  

Nother point is turbos work off exhaust heat.  Superchargers are
mechanically linked to the engine.  So there IMHO is gonna be
alot more fugding to get it right.  I'd lean toward the syclone stuff,
and take a bunch of >bar timing out.  Like I've said plugs are
cheaper than ex valves.
>
>Another question is about the downpipe sizing. I'm running twin T04E
>.58AR turbos on a smallblock chevy. I plan on having 450 hp right off
>the bat, 

Try for 225 and you'll probably do less backtracking.  What are you
monitoring for tuning?.  
Personnaly never heard of too large of discharge pipes outta a
turbo.  

Use small steps, low timing, rich, and low boost to start, and ease
your way into things.  Hurry this, and you'll find out what they mean
by debit card.

>Andris
>
Bruce


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Subject: Re: Engine Simulation SW
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 16:17:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
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> 


if anyone has something good with URLs post it or email me
I am currently in the porcess of designing a web page resource for 
engine simulator software in general, with lainks to multiple internet
resources, including free ware and demoware downloads

Clive 
clive@problem.tantech.com
> 
> 
> 	Does anyone have any recommendations for software for
> engine performance simulation that includes turbos and
> intercoolers?  hopefully not too expensive either...
> 
> paul timmerman


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Subject: Re: Boingers
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On Wed, 6 May 1998, Gary Derian wrote:

> >I must have missed that one in my searches...all the rotary engines I know
> >of were single row radials with 7 cylinders. Any more info on the 12
> >cylinder [or more] item?
> >

> I know there are twin row 18 cyl radial engines.

rotary type?


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 16:47:10 1998
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Subject: Re: turbos, VE's etc...
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 16:50:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <3550A47D.CC35A33A@tufts.edu> from "Andris Skulte" at May 6, 98 01:57:17 pm
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> 
> I'm pretty close to putting the turbos onto the Camaro. I do have some
> fuel/timing curves for the DFI, but they are all supercharged. How do
> you figure out the VE of a turbo engine? I've got dyno and airflow
> charts of the camaro when it was naturally aspirated, and figured out a
> VE that way, but wouldn't adding a turbo skew the graph instead of just
> raising it by the pressure ratio? 


yes it will skew it
also you will have  higer pumping losses at higer boost levels because
of the ability to flow in a port becoming restricted by desinty of the
air

if you have an estimated curve for the stock engine
and multiply this by the PR you will be close, but you want to richen up
slightly at the higer RPMs to prevent meltage

boost comes as a squared function of impeller speed
so the cruve will skew higher at the higher RPMs 
also since higer RPMs also mean more airflow it is closer to a cube function

so for ex>:
you have stock engine makes 10" vac 2000 rpm   8" 3000 6" 4000 4" 5000 2" 6000
you add a turbo and get these numbers 8" 2000  4" 3000 +4 4000 +12" 5000 +24" 6k
so you have increased airflow by 
6% 2000 13% 3000 33% 4000 53% 5000 80% 6000
so you need to add fuel to compensate for the extra air

Note: this does not take into account any expansion caused by heating
if your air temp jumps 150^ you will be actually reducing the numbers above
by * .74 to get the air mass

so you would add
4.5%, 10.5%, 24.5% 39.2% 59.2%  which would be approx = to the power increase
ie at 6000 RPM 24" =12lb boost = + 60% power
almost like real world results

you may want to go a little richer to protect parts and make a little more power
12.5-13:1 A/F is close to max power point
also allows margins to prevent meltage of parts
 
> Another question is about the downpipe sizing. I'm running twin T04E
> .58AR turbos on a smallblock chevy. I plan on having 450 hp right off
> the bat, and eventually up to 700 hp. I've heard different theories on
> downpipe design. One was that you should increase the diameter right
> after the turbo, to stop the spinning, and then make your 90 degree
> turn. Someone mentioned that the spiraling exhasut gasses creat much
> more backpressure in a bend than straight flowing gasses. Space is
> pretty tight under the hood of the camaro, and the smaller diameter I
> can safely (efficiently use) the better. The turbo outlet has a 3"
> opening, and I was planning on using 2.25 or 2.5" pipes max. Is this
> concept a big deal, or can I just neck it down right outside the turbos?
> Thanks for the insights!


you wont make 700 HP on 2.5" pipes
you should stay with the 3"
keep them straight for as long as possible
you can put a grille type diffuser befroe the bend to reduce the spiralling
something with 1cm boxes about 1cm deep would work OK and not cost too much 
airflow, maybe you can find a stainless grill from a florescent light fixture
it will have to be sianless of ceramic if you want it to live in the temps
involved

Clive 

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From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Boingers
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On Wed, 6 May 1998, Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020 wrote:

> > > 
> > > >I believe the British made an	engine that did that.
> > > Yea, Aero engines... 12 cylinders ( or more ) with the prop bolted onto
> > > the cylinders, round and round they went, vroooom... all that air flow
> > > over the casing kept it nice and cool.  Not much use in a car though.
> > 
> > I must have missed that one in my searches...all the rotary engines I know
> > of were single row radials with 7 cylinders. Any more info on the 12
> > cylinder [or more] item?
> > 
> > Jim Davies
> 
> 
> they cam with 5, 6, 7, 9 cyl in one row
> or 2 row models up to 18 cyl
> not all of these are rotaing block types
> most were rotating crank
> 
Who made the 2 row rotary?




From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 17:09:07 1998
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Subject: Re: 747 meet 730, 730 meet 165
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 14:08:42 -0700 (PDT)
In-Reply-To: <01bd791d$b633c320$56198fd1@nacelp> from "Bruce Plecan" at May 6, 98 02:35:15 pm
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It probably wouldn't work.  Some sensors are fed thru a resistor from
a voltage source (eg coolant).  You would end up with half the source
impedance which would affect the voltage at the sensor.
For example, when the sensors resistance is the same as the source impedance,
the voltage across it would be half that of the voltage source.
Half the source impedance and now the voltage across the sensor
would be 2/3 that of the source... quite an error.  I wouldn't expect
smoke from the ECU in this case tho'.

Some digital inputs might be OK, but you would have to reverse engineer
the input circuitry to be sure.

For the resistor fed sensor, it wouldn't be too hard to make an
op-amp plus transistor circuit to feed the second ECU.

> Has anyone any experience with running 2 ecms off the same 
> inputs?.  ie would they have enough "impedance" to share inputs?
> or would they do something strange?.  The outputs would be 
> loaded independently of each other, as far as driving any loads,
> it would all be run off a small motorcycle battery.  Was just
> going to use some resistors (like 20 ohm for the injectors),
> and hook up a ignition module with a 20 dummy load on it also.
>   If this is unknown ground can anyone give me a list of things
> that might go wrong.
>   I can almost smell the smoke now
> Bruce       Glad I scotch guarded all my Cone Shaped Hats 
>                  the other day.    


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 17:57:23 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Paul Tholey <pft101@psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
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Where the h*ll can I get that K*ck *ss TPI intake in the Holdens?  I am serious!

Paul Tholey


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 18:10:39 1998
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Subject: Re: Boingers
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From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
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> > > > 
> > > > >I believe the British made an	engine that did that.
> > > > Yea, Aero engines... 12 cylinders ( or more ) with the prop bolted onto
> > > > the cylinders, round and round they went, vroooom... all that air flow
> > > > over the casing kept it nice and cool.  Not much use in a car though.
> > > 
> > > I must have missed that one in my searches...all the rotary engines I know
> > > of were single row radials with 7 cylinders. Any more info on the 12
> > > cylinder [or more] item?
> > 
> > they cam with 5, 6, 7, 9 cyl in one row
> > or 2 row models up to 18 cyl
> > not all of these are rotaing block types
> > most were rotating crank
> > 
> Who made the 2 row rotary?


no Idea
but I saw one in a book somewhere
Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 18:32:39 1998
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Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 15:30:59 -0800
From: Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
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Subject: Questions about EGOR
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What sort of power source does EGOR need (not counting the heater)? 
12V?  5V?  Both?

How much current is needed at 5V?  Putting this another way, is the
current draw low enough to use an ECM's regulated 5V output meant for
sensors (TPS & MAP)?

Could EGOR use dual 5V supplies - one for internal circuitry, and one
for the source of current sent to the O2 sensor?  The idea is to protect
against short circuits in external wiring.  If the O2 harness gets
mangled by a fan, or melted by a manifold, thus shorting all the wires
to ground, the sensor supply can shut off.  The internal supply can keep
working, allowing an error code to be reported.

Is EGOR's 0 to 5V signal output range a "natural" range?  How much of a
load can the output drive?  It appears that GM ECM's often have an
unused analog input with a 1000 ohm pullup to 5V.  Can EGOR drive this?

Can EGOR be designed with an output range of about 1 volt?  This would
allow EGOR to directly drive an ECM's existing O2 input(s).  (It's a
trivial matter to edit a PROM to handle a different O2 input voltage
profile.)

Alternately, does it make sense to monitor one of EGOR's O2 cells using
an ECM's existing (differential input) O2 amp?

How big will EGOR's circuit board be?


I went to a library and looked up how Honda wires their "LAF" O2
sensor.  This sensor is used only on the 49 state '92-'95+ Civic 1.5
VTEC.  The California emissions version of the same car&engine gets a
standard 4 wire heated O2 sensor.

The pin-3 end of the calibration resistor is grounded.  The pin-4 end of
the resistor is driven from 0.3 to 4.9 volts by the ECM.

The pin-2 end of the heater is grounded.  The pin-1 end is driven from
the ECM.  This is different from all other Honda heated O2 sensors -
which connect between "hot" and the ECM.  Both types use the same ECM
pin for the heater output.  The trouble shooting flowchart implies that
the heater is driven with 7 volts.  (However, the flowchart never ends
in a "no problems" box - the 7 volts might be a failure response.)

Pin 8 (IP- and VS-, i.e. the cell common connection) is at 2.6 to 2.8
volts when the engine is running.  Pin 7 (IP+) should be 0.4 volts.  And
pin 6 (VS+) should be greater than 5 volts.

               unsigned long BinToBCD(unsigned long i) {unsigned long t;
Ludis Langens     return i ? (t = BinToBCD(i >> 1), (t << 1) + (i & 1) + 
ludis@cruzers.com            (t + 858993459 >> 2 & 572662306) * 3) : 0;}


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 19:42:49 1998
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Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 19:45:24 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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Danny Barrett wrote:
> 
> >From what I'm told, the Holden V8 is a completely Australian designed engine
> (but I could have been told a heap of crap...). As for the V6, I believe it
> is a Buick. However, with the "Ecotec" V6, it is basically loosely designed
> on the previous Buick re-hash, and not, in reality the same engine, although
> the cubic displacement is still nominally 3.8L.
> 
> >For the unlucky blokes that can't get em (usa), have a look at
> >http://www.thrasher-ep.com
> >they are a neat car.  Are these the ones the 808 ecm is used
> >in the SS, and SHV (?).  Is that engine the same inside as
> >our (USA) small block chevy?.
> >
> >Public Service Announcement:
> >
> >Cone Shaped Hat HQ is also one step closer to being able
> >to dim the neighborhood lights by bench racing ecms.
> >No worries here!!
> >Bruce
> >
> >
> >
Not sure of the new stuff, but a '72 premier, and  Monaro had basically
a chevy 265cu in small block. I have had the experience of working on
both in a past life, and if it wasn't in a Holden car, I'd have sworn it
was a '55 chevy.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 19:54:03 1998
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Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 19:57:36 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
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Orin Eman wrote:
> 
> It probably wouldn't work.  Some sensors are fed thru a resistor from
> a voltage source (eg coolant).  You would end up with half the source
> impedance which would affect the voltage at the sensor.
> For example, when the sensors resistance is the same as the source impedance,
> the voltage across it would be half that of the voltage source.
> Half the source impedance and now the voltage across the sensor
> would be 2/3 that of the source... quite an error.  I wouldn't expect
> smoke from the ECU in this case tho'.
> 
> Some digital inputs might be OK, but you would have to reverse engineer
> the input circuitry to be sure.
> 
> For the resistor fed sensor, it wouldn't be too hard to make an
> op-amp plus transistor circuit to feed the second ECU.
> 
> > Has anyone any experience with running 2 ecms off the same
> > inputs?.  ie would they have enough "impedance" to share inputs?
> > or would they do something strange?.  The outputs would be
> > loaded independently of each other, as far as driving any loads,
> > it would all be run off a small motorcycle battery.  Was just
> > going to use some resistors (like 20 ohm for the injectors),
> > and hook up a ignition module with a 20 dummy load on it also.
> >   If this is unknown ground can anyone give me a list of things
> > that might go wrong.
> >   I can almost smell the smoke now
> > Bruce       Glad I scotch guarded all my Cone Shaped Hats
> >                  the other day.
Since most of the sensor inputs read VOLTAGE, not impedence or
resistance, it would likely work. You may want to use the reference
power from one ECU only, connecting ground and signal to both. If you
arre using a maf that outputs a variable frequency, unless it is
integrated as a voltage to read, it would be questionable.
-- 
                               _/\_
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                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
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Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 20:25:57 1998
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Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 20:23:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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To: Paul Tholey <pft101@psu.edu>
cc: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
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> Where the h*ll can I get that K*ck *ss TPI intake in the Holdens?  I am serious!
> 
> Paul Tholey

does this intake have anything special when compared to the GM one ??

Alain Toussaint



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From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: RE: High MPG
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-> I've done the ceramic coating at home as well, but I had trouble
-> getting my cylinder head into the oven, now you lot say you use
-> toaster ovens....  You Americans must have very big slices of
-> bread...

 "Everything is bigger in Texas..."

 You can do the Tech Line ceramics in your household oven.  They won't
stink anything up.
                                                                                                               

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From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
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-> regenerative braking and massive power switching module.  On top of
-> all that, pure water was used for cooling of motor and get this: was
-> fluid used in turbine's journal bearings instead of oil.

 Sure, water will work just fine.  Take a look at a big hydroelectric
turbine sometime; chances are it'll have water plumbed to sleeve
bearings.  Once the shaft is spinning any fluid will do - even air,
which is often used in very high speed applications.

 Automobiles use oil-fed plain bearings primarily because they already
*have* oil in the crankcase to lube the myriad things which require
lubrication, so it makes sense to use oil.
                                                                

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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Questions about EGOR
Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 18:36:42 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Wed, 06 May 1998 15:30:59 -0800, Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
wrote:

>What sort of power source does EGOR need (not counting the heater)? 
>12V?  5V?  Both?

Hey, Lulu.

Lemme say a couple things about what Sandy and I have discussed so far
about EGOR's "home", or the pc-board Sandy's gonna layout for us all. It
will be his design discretion and call, of course, but my request to him
was to make it a "module" that could be either plugged into a board
(with suitable 0.1" headers/sockets) for those wanting to make
"instruments" like meters, dataloggers, etc. and ALSO could be soldered
onto/into thru holes in a larger board, for those making engine managers
(where vibration won't allow insertion force connections to be reliably
used). Since most all the devices, excepting the idea I mention below,
can be had in surface mount, the entire EGOR board is likely gonna fit
in something WAY shorter than a 40-pin 0.6" DIP. Yep, you heard me
right, it's that small.

I haven't discussed these niceties with Sandy yet, partly cuz he's an
old hand at this already (grey hairs, maybe?), but if the 5V regulator
is left as a thru-hole device, then if you didn't have 12V available,
you could leave the regulator out, treat the regulator pin that would
normally source the 5V as another module pin, and so you can use either
12v or 5v. My own preference would be that you'd use 12v and this
regulator, cuz the regulator spec'd in the design is a special one for
automotive, that has all kinds of protection, including load dump,
double battery, reverse battery, ALT field collapse protection, blah
blah blah. It's made for automotive, let's put it that way. And it needs
less than 1V headroom to maintain regulation, so it will work well below
lowest, coldest weather, crummiest battery cranking voltage. So IF you
have BAT+ available whatever your app, I'd say stick with that and use
this regulator. The precision references run off this 5V, so I'd want a
good regulator looking over them.

Beyond that, suffice it to say that EGOR uses the most wunnerful op-amps
yet to grace the earth for engine electrics guys, Analog Devices OP-x96
family (in EGOR's case OP-496's, quads). They are true rail-to-rail,
super-low power, VERY low drift and noise floor (not meant to be used
above say 100KHz practically speaking, perfect therefore for automotive,
which is how they get the noise figure down so low), and of course
single supply, all the way from 3V to 16V if memory serves. So they are
just perfect, I use em ALL the time, and they work just swell on 5V,
especially protected by that NatSemi LM2930 regulator.

>How much current is needed at 5V?  Putting this another way, is the
>current draw low enough to use an ECM's regulated 5V output meant for
>sensors (TPS & MAP)?

Yeah, I think you can count on that, if you NEED to. It's so low, I
didn't bother adding it up, but I'd say way below 50mA @ 5V. But again,
I'd prefer you going off B+ like another other sensor, rather than a
slave off the ECM, cuz there's plenty of room on EGOR, the regulator no
way needs even a heat sink the load's so small, and that way you don't
add to the load budget of the ECM. Always best to stand alone off BAT+
if you can.

>Could EGOR use dual 5V supplies - one for internal circuitry, and one
>for the source of current sent to the O2 sensor?  The idea is to protect
>against short circuits in external wiring.  If the O2 harness gets
>mangled by a fan, or melted by a manifold, thus shorting all the wires
>to ground, the sensor supply can shut off.  The internal supply can keep
>working, allowing an error code to be reported.

Nope, it's way too intertwined for the isolation yer hoping for. A noble
goal, but in this puppy's case, especially since NTK & the HONDA
bean-counters decided to save an extra wire from the sensor harness, the
Ion pump and O2 VsCell sensor are commoned on one lead, so tryna isolate
the supplies for the Ip Cell and the VsCell leaves you with just one
lone op-map that's free of danger. If the Ion pump connector gets
shorted to gnd, you're gonna spill 13mA at most into the crapper, and
WAY less in the case of the VsCell bias, so not to worry about EGOR
hemorrhaging.

I understand the thot process, and coulda saved ya several synapses if I
had mentioned earlier how low power this whole operation actually is.
Suffice it to say, the main worry about pranging the harness, is
shorting the HEATER supply lines, which have to be fused for greater
than 5A at startup. So, you needn't worry about poor ole EGOR bleeding
all over the place if his lifeline is severed. As far as setting error
codes, as with anything like this (I'm assuming you've brought this up
cuz you're thinkin bout yer own engine manager), when you can't use
POWER issues to tellya when somethin's rotten in Denmark, probably
oughta watch for lack of "changes". This is a tradeoff we have to make
with wider dynamic range, in that EGOR's gonna swim all the way from
deep to shallow end, cuz he can swing rail-to-rail to give max range of
leanNrich, but as a result, you can't anymore say, "if at rail, then
fault". Price you pay for "glory", I guess.

This brings up another pet peave of mine, in that lots of stuff has
apparently been designed assuming op-amps would always be as lame as the
80's, so designers used the idea that "above a certain level" was
"out-of-range". This is a totally bogus design idea, and these guys
obviously were living for the moment. Everyone knew that FET technology
was gonna do away with that "diode junction" crap, but they went ahead
and designed it into systems as if it was a law of nature. As a result,
we've inherited from older auto systems, the loss of over 1V gnd/supply
headroom, outta 5V. 20%+ loss of system range is alot to give up to a
temporary artifact of bipolar technology, but it's there. The pits,
dudes.

Another example of this "food-chain paradigm" we're all suffering from;
these guys probably figured by the time reality caught up with them,
they'd be "managers" and therefore immune to technical criticism. Hey,
life in the fast lane, everything changes in 5yrs, and if you're in a
diff. place by then, not to worry. What a bunch of irresponsible
horse-pucky. As my father used to say, "Old man WRONG goes down the road
and waits for ya". Them guys oughta have their cars croak on them
routinely as a reward for their intrepid devotion to the art. Snarl.

>Is EGOR's 0 to 5V signal output range a "natural" range?  How much of a
>load can the output drive?  It appears that GM ECM's often have an
>unused analog input with a 1000 ohm pullup to 5V.  Can EGOR drive this?

"Natural"? that's a new one on me. Is that similar to "Organically
grown"? EGOR's output will be exactly the same as the NTK box, if you
want to plant Virtual Ground/Stoich on 3.0V like NTK does, OR (my
personal preference) on 2.5V as any sane analog guy would do. I believe
NTK picked 3.0V to give them some more "range" on the rich side, cuz
they weren't able to use rail-to-rail amps, and so were somewhat limited
with say 2.0V of swing for the rich side. With EGOR's better innards,
you could "do the right thang, analog-wise" and plant the virtual gnd at
2.5V (i.e. mid-supply) like all the big boys do.

As far as your GM ECM's 1K/5V "free input", I'd say any system that
expected ANY output to be able to drive 1K into 5V is really asking for
disgusting jokes about their mama. That's pretty low impedance. BUT, yes
EGOR can handle that, since the final voltage output stage is a fully
buffered unity-gain follower, just for them turkeys that think
everything rotates around them. Sheesh. 1Kohm input impedance; da vewy
noive! Harrumph. Course, you gonna pay for that with increased supply
load, but it's still only another 10% of budget, so no sweat.

>Can EGOR be designed with an output range of about 1 volt?  This would
>allow EGOR to directly drive an ECM's existing O2 input(s).  (It's a
>trivial matter to edit a PROM to handle a different O2 input voltage
>profile.)

NO, this ISN'T gonna be possible, and for an even better reason than
just "levels" issues. If you read the previous posts, the output of
these Ion Pump interfaces is in NO way similar to a stock O2 sensor.
Additional, albeit simple, interface circuitry is required. I can't take
the space AGAIN to outline this; suggest you climb back up the thread a
day or two's worth and see the discussion about how EGOR is gonna be
pin'd out to allow use in ALL kinds of diff. apps. It discusses things
like what you've asked about interfacing to diff. kinds of systems.

>Alternately, does it make sense to monitor one of EGOR's O2 cells using
>an ECM's existing (differential input) O2 amp?
>
>How big will EGOR's circuit board be?

All answered in the aboveNbeyond.

>I went to a library and looked up how Honda wires their "LAF" O2
>sensor.  This sensor is used only on the 49 state '92-'95+ Civic 1.5
>VTEC.  The California emissions version of the same car&engine gets a
>standard 4 wire heated O2 sensor.

Bzzzzzzzt. I can't cite you chapterNverse of the year/model of the VX
Civic, but I've BOUGHT sensors for our year/model range IN CALIF, and
they ARE 5-wire and suitable. What exactly are you after here? I've
ALREADY posted the Honda part number. You wanna argue with THAT, or
what? I don't get yer drift, mate.

Thanks for sharing the questions; I trust millions were served. Heh.

Garfarkle


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Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 21:21:14 -0700
From: Strasser <strasser@mci2000.com>
Subject: Zack's calculation verification:  water injection
To: DIY <DIY_EFI@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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I know we are already finished with this topic...I think, but I want to add something.  (2 cents)

Zack gave us a good thermodynamic view of the compression process which showed that the charge was approximately 800°F at the end of compression.  

Actually, if we assume a 95% scavenge effeciency (based on mass), the BDC (prior) to compression temperature will be around 190°F, instead of the 80°F he started with, due to mixing with combustion products.  This takes the TDC temperature to a mere 1000°F (assuming the same isentropic, adiabatic, ideal gas, constant heat capacity path he chose).

Since 1000°F (810K) is well above the critical temperature of water (643K), water will be a gas phase UNLESS PRESSURE IS RAISED TO 3200 PSIA.  This does not happen before or after ignition, so I would say he is correct. :) 

Thanks, Zack for clarifying this for us.


Wayne Strasser
Chemical Engineer
2-Stroke EFI Patent Pending
Christ is "the Way and the Truth and the Life.":  John 14:6  

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<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>I know we are already finished with this 
topic...I think, but I want to add something.&nbsp; (2 cents)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Zack gave us a good thermodynamic view of the 
compression process which showed that the charge was approximately 800&deg;F at 
the end of compression.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Actually, if we assume a 95% scavenge effeciency (based on 
mass), the BDC (prior) to compression temperature will be around 190&deg;F, 
instead of the 80&deg;F he started with, due to mixing with combustion 
products.&nbsp; <STRONG>This takes the TDC temperature to a mere 1000&deg;F 
</STRONG>(assuming the same isentropic, adiabatic, ideal gas, constant heat 
capacity path he chose).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Since 1000&deg;F (810K) is well above the critical temperature 
of water (643K), water will be a gas phase UNLESS PRESSURE IS RAISED TO 3200 
PSIA.&nbsp; This does not happen before or after ignition, so I would say he is 
correct. :) </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Thanks, Zack for clarifying this for 
us.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Wayne Strasser<BR>Chemical Engineer<BR>2-Stroke 
EFI Patent Pending<BR>Christ is &quot;the Way and the Truth and the 
Life.&quot;:&nbsp; John 14:6&nbsp; </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 21:39:19 -0700
From: Strasser <strasser@mci2000.com>
Subject: Danny's Summary: more water injection
To: DIY <DIY_EFI@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Danny gave us a good summary of the water injection discussion to date.  He asked about post-ignition steam properties and about water expansion versus NO and CO2.

I would like to add.  It can be shown that ignition temp and pressure can be (approximate...if anyone wants to see the source, write me outside of the group) around 5000 °R and 750 PSIA.  By using the Peng/Robinson Equation of State, water, NO, and CO2 exhibit the following vapor volumes.  The higher the vapor volume, obviously, the greater the expansion force.

water: 4544 cm3 per mole 
NO: 4499 cm3 per mole    
CO2: 4548 cm3 per mole

To make a long story short...all inert gases appear to have the same effect here??  These numbers depend on critial pressure, critical temp, and acentric factor.  This is by no means an ideal gas calculation.  Apparently at these conditions, it doesnt matter what compound is present.

oh well..


Wayne Strasser
Chemical Engineer
2-Stroke EFI Patent Pending
Christ is "the Way and the Truth and the Life.":  John 14:6  

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<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Danny gave us a good summary of the water 
injection discussion to date.&nbsp; He asked about post-ignition steam 
properties and about water expansion versus NO and CO2.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>I would like to add.&nbsp; It can be shown that ignition temp 
and pressure can be (approximate...if anyone wants to see the source, write me 
outside of the group) around 5000 &deg;R and 750 PSIA.&nbsp; By using the 
Peng/Robinson Equation of State, water, NO, and CO2 exhibit the following vapor 
volumes.&nbsp; The higher the vapor volume, obviously, the greater the expansion 
force.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>water: 4544 cm3 per mole </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>NO: 4499 cm3 per mole&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>CO2: 4548 cm3 per mole</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>To make a long story short...all inert gases appear to have 
the same effect here??&nbsp; These numbers depend on critial pressure, critical 
temp, and acentric factor.&nbsp; This is by no means an ideal gas 
calculation.&nbsp; Apparently at these conditions, it doesnt matter what 
compound is present.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>oh well..</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Wayne Strasser<BR>Chemical Engineer<BR>2-Stroke 
EFI Patent Pending<BR>Christ is &quot;the Way and the Truth and the 
Life.&quot;:&nbsp; John 14:6&nbsp; </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 21:43:48 1998
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Date: Wed, 06 May 1998 21:44:02 -0700
From: Strasser <strasser@mci2000.com>
Subject: Danny's patent concerns
To: DIY <DIY_EFI@EFI332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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A patent does not secure the rights to the "money" of which you spoke...UNLESS you are prepared to prosecute in court.  It just slows the theives down...

You would NOT be forfeiting your rights to a patent by disclosing your claimed art to public domain...UNLESS you wait more than one year.  As long as you can show documentation (discuss this with patent attrny) that it is your idea, you still have first shot during that year.     


Wayne Strasser
Chemical Engineer
2-Stroke EFI Patent Pending
Christ is "the Way and the Truth and the Life.":  John 14:6  

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<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>A patent does not secure the rights to the 
&quot;money&quot; of which you spoke...UNLESS you are prepared to prosecute in 
court.&nbsp; It just slows the theives down...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>You would NOT be forfeiting your rights to a 
patent by disclosing your claimed art to public domain...UNLESS you wait more 
than one year.&nbsp; As long as you can show documentation (discuss this with 
patent attrny) that it is your idea, you still have first shot during that 
year.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Wayne Strasser<BR>Chemical Engineer<BR>2-Stroke 
EFI Patent Pending<BR>Christ is &quot;the Way and the Truth and the 
Life.&quot;:&nbsp; John 14:6&nbsp; </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

--Boundary_(ID_xi6TJd9lD21NCCKm1Vki/w)--

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 22:09:04 1998
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From: "Gregory A. Parmer" <gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu>
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Well, ummmm. I *think* it worked. I'm a learning
as I go here. Have a look at "747asdu.bin" (the 91 PU)
and/or "783akba.bin" (88 Olds) and lemme know how much more
I gotta learn before I can operate a stupid programmer.
Both are at ftp://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu".

-greg


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May  6 23:49:06 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Whattza Holden?.
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 13:51:26 +1000
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Hi All,

The '72 onwards (HQ series) had either 253/308 (local engines) or 350 in 
the GTS/Monaro (pronounced Mon-ar-o). HJ ('74 onwards) had the local 308.

The HK ('67-68) had the 307 (called the 5 litre) or 327 (in the GTS), the 
HT(approx 69-70) got the 350 (GTS) but used the local V8 for the lower 
models. HG had the 350 as well as the local motors.

I could be a little wrong with years as its been literally years since I 
craved for a HK GTS.

BTW The 253/308 was originally designed to accomodate a capacity of around 
5.5 litres. It took 'em 25 years to do it with the Commodore Senator/GTS - 
5.7 Litre. Unfortunately, since the demise of the Group A Touring Car 
Formula, GMH didn't have to homologate the trick gear so we lost stuff like 
the twin staggered throttle body intakes which would have made the 5.7 
really get up and go. People pay $2-3000 for these intakes these days.

Cheers,

Peter

----------
From: 	Clare Snyder
Sent: 	Thursday, May 07, 1998 9:45 AM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: Whattza Holden?.

Danny Barrett wrote:
>
> >From what I'm told, the Holden V8 is a completely Australian designed 
engine
> (but I could have been told a heap of crap...). As for the V6, I believe 
it
> is a Buick. However, with the "Ecotec" V6, it is basically loosely 
designed
> on the previous Buick re-hash, and not, in reality the same engine, 
although
> the cubic displacement is still nominally 3.8L.
>
> >For the unlucky blokes that can't get em (usa), have a look at
> >http://www.thrasher-ep.com
> >they are a neat car.  Are these the ones the 808 ecm is used
> >in the SS, and SHV (?).  Is that engine the same inside as
> >our (USA) small block chevy?.
> >
> >Public Service Announcement:
> >
> >Cone Shaped Hat HQ is also one step closer to being able
> >to dim the neighborhood lights by bench racing ecms.
> >No worries here!!
> >Bruce
> >
> >
> >
Not sure of the new stuff, but a '72 premier, and  Monaro had basically
a chevy 265cu in small block. I have had the experience of working on
both in a past life, and if it wasn't in a Holden car, I'd have sworn it
was a '55 chevy.
--
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!


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`
end



From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 00:35:34 1998
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Date: Wed, 6 May 1998 21:34:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: T Hergen <thergen@svn.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: 747 meet 730, 730 meet 165
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I think  the sensors that get gnd and +5v such as the map and tps (not
the [heated] O2) can be shared.  I don't think they rely on a resistor
divider arrangement like the coolant temp sensor.  The map on my '92 GM
truck even appears to have an internal amplifier/buffer (can't measure
resistance, but give it gnd and +5v and a voltage that changes with
vacuum comes out [no pullup needed]).

Using an external pullup on the coolant sensor followed by an op amp may
or may not work.  Others on the list indicated that some ECMs switch in
different pullup value depending on the temperature (improves ECMs
measurement resolution over particular ranges).  If you're just using
potentiometer to simulate the coolant sensor, adjust the pot for the same
voltage in the dual ECM case as in the single and they should indicate the
same temperature.  The only time the pot may be a problem is when your
near the range where the ECMs want to switch the pullup value -- anyone
know about what temperature this happens?

What are you currently doing for the O2 in the single ECM case?

As others have stated, digital inputs should be okay.

Tom



On Wed, 6 May 1998, Orin Eman wrote:

> It probably wouldn't work.  Some sensors are fed thru a resistor from
> a voltage source (eg coolant).  You would end up with half the source
> impedance which would affect the voltage at the sensor.
> For example, when the sensors resistance is the same as the source impedance,
> the voltage across it would be half that of the voltage source.
> Half the source impedance and now the voltage across the sensor
> would be 2/3 that of the source... quite an error.  I wouldn't expect
> smoke from the ECU in this case tho'.
> 
> Some digital inputs might be OK, but you would have to reverse engineer
> the input circuitry to be sure.
> 
> For the resistor fed sensor, it wouldn't be too hard to make an
> op-amp plus transistor circuit to feed the second ECU.
> 
> > Has anyone any experience with running 2 ecms off the same 
> > inputs?.  ie would they have enough "impedance" to share inputs?
> > or would they do something strange?.  The outputs would be 
> > loaded independently of each other, as far as driving any loads,
> > it would all be run off a small motorcycle battery.  Was just
> > going to use some resistors (like 20 ohm for the injectors),
> > and hook up a ignition module with a 20 dummy load on it also.
> >   If this is unknown ground can anyone give me a list of things
> > that might go wrong.
> >   I can almost smell the smoke now
> > Bruce       Glad I scotch guarded all my Cone Shaped Hats 
> >                  the other day.    
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 00:52:34 1998
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Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 00:51:08 -0400
From: Thomas Matthews <Tmatthe1@worldnet.att.net>
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What is the asdu bin file that was posted on the FTP site recently
from? CID,trans, truck size (1/2,3/4,1 ton)...
Seems like it came out right at first glance...
Thanks
Tom

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 00:56:28 1998
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Message-ID: <01BD79C6.80E94A60.dzorde@soanar.com.au>
From: Dan Zorde <dzorde@soanar.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Whattza Holden?.
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 14:43:29 +0800
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A few points:

1. The Holden V8 (talking the 308 here) is an Aussie design.  However, some of 
the earlier models late 60's came with 307 Chevs and a variety of other Chevs 
bigger and smaller.

2. The Holden TPI looks good, however there is a lot of smoke and mirrors. 
 What you see is just lots of bolt on plastic bits that come chromed or painted 
to your preference.  Does look good though if you have the twin throttle body 
setup.  Mind you I think if you polish and paint the Chev TPI correctly it 
looks a hell of a lot better than the Holden one.  But if you really want one 
you'd need the full engine as the TPI won't mate to any Chev engines (already 
asked others about it).

Dan	dzorde@soanar.com.au

-----Original Message-----
From:	Paul Tholey [SMTP:pft101@psu.edu]
Sent:	Thursday, 07 May, 1998 5:57 AM
To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject:	Re: Whattza Holden?.

Where the h*ll can I get that K*ck *ss TPI intake in the Holdens?  I am 
serious!

Paul Tholey


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Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 00:50:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Boingers
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>To the person claiming no significant performance or mileage benefit
from a
>rotary: (with aftermarket exhaust) 225 HP at the flywheel, naturally
>aspirated, in 1.3 liters of displacement in a 2500 lb. car. 18-25 mpg
>depending on driving style. The mpg is similar to a V8, as is the power,
but
>a 13B engine can be easily lifted by 2 men (about 300 lbs., with all the
>accessories still attached).  That alone is a significant advantage over
a
>V8. With attached turbo, rotaries are reliably running up to 400 hp on
the
>street. Mileage remains similar. Can you say that for a 400HP piston 
>engine?

I'm not talking about specialized racing applications, or even how many
people it takes to pick it up.  I understand that the power/weight ratio
is better than a four-stroke piston engine.  I'm talking about what sells
cars.  Go down to your favorite Mazda dealer and drive one.  Yah, it's
pretty fast and gets decent mileage.  Now, go to a Chevy dealer and hop
into a Camaro Z28.  It'll blow the doors of the RX7, and the mileage
still isn't that bad.  Now, go hop into a Saturn twin cam.  Much better
mileage and not too shabby on the performance.

My point is that the mileage/performance balance isn't significently (if
at all) better than the other cars you can buy off the lot.  If I have to
swap an engine, I might appreciate that it is lighter.  When I'm driving,
I appreciate the performance of the car as a whole.

There are some directly injected two-stroke engines on the drawing
boards.  I don't have the exact figures, but I would be willing to bet
(if I were a betting man) that the power/weight ratio of these
two-strokers will be similar to the Wankyl.  They won't, however, suffer
from the wierd-shaped combustion chamber and longevity of the Wankyl.

Ray Drouillard

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On Tue, 5 May 1998 23:05:34 -0600 "Zack" <zubenubi@inetport.com> writes:
>> There are other ways of reducing the loss due to
>> forcing a few ounces of metal bounce back and forth.  You could hold
>> the crank still and rotate the cylinders.  I believe the British
>> made an engine that did that.
>
>Ray,
>
>If you hold the crank still, you -still- have that metal 
>bouncing back and forth.  You cannot, even in theory, create a piston 
>engine with perfect dynamic balance.  You can in theory achieve 
>perfect dynamic balance in a rotary engine, and some designs have in 
>fact achieved this (the Moller Rotary for one), though most have not 
>(the dynamic balance of Mazda's rotaries is not perfect).
>.	As for the rotary piston engine (which cannot be dynamically 
>balanced) lots of people made rotary piston engines, not just the 
>British (the rotary kind on the old WWI planes, where the entire 
>engine rotated around the stationary crankshaft).  They were a very 
>unfavorable design for lots of reasons, and didn't last very long.

It is theoretically possible to create a piston engine without
recriprocating parts.  The cylinders (I would use a radial design) rotate
around a central axis  The pistons and connecting rods each rotate around
an axis that is offset from the central axis by a distance of one half
the stroke of the engine.  Each of the two assemblies would rotate in a
balanced fashion.

I'm not quite certain what you mean by "perfect dynamic balance", but the
point is that the piston isn't being forced to acellerate and decellerate
some 2000 - 14000 times a minute.  They are simply rotating around a
fixed point.  They'll tilt back and forth a bit relative to the
connecting rod, and the rotational velocity of the connecting rod and
piston will go up and down slightly, but this is nothing compared to the
constant wobbling back and forth that occurs in a standard piston engine.

If you wanted to make such an engine (valving might be a challenge), you
could go with heavy pistons if you want.  After all, they aren't forced
to bounce up and down all the time.

Ray Drouillard

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 01:51:35 1998
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Subject: Re: High MPG
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I never heard about any real difficulty getting the cylinders.  A couple
of guys on the Full-Sized Jeep list are running propane in Austrailia,
and they never mentioned having a hard time finding the cylinders.  Of
course, you can put a bigger cylinder in a Wagoneer.

As for here in North America, you can get them out of some junkyards
(according to a friend of mine in Mexico).  There are a lot of vehicles
running on propane in Mexico.  It's not only cheaper, but runs a lot
better and cleaner.  It runs better than the best gasoline.  If you
compare it to that *stuff* that is available down there, there is no
comparison.  I drove from Detroit to Chihuaua, Chihuaua, and on to
Guachochi, Chihuaua.  I thought my engine was malfunctioning.  I got a
decent tank of gas and it improved a lot.  Once I crossed the border, I
went to a station in El Paso and topped off my tank.  Instant
improvement.  It kept getting better as I continued to add more American
gasoline.

The next time I drive down there, I am going to either run propane or
install one heck of a mondo fuel filter and sediment bulb.  I had a
carburater then, but I have Holley Pro-Jection now.

Ray Drouillard



On Wed, 6 May 1998 15:24:01 +1000 (EST) danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au
(Danny Barrett) writes:
>Around here, when you consider everything (including cylinder hire - you
>can't *buy* auto cylinders anymore, from what I've heard), you need to
do
>about 30,000 km (18,600 miles) per year to even break even - I only do
about
>10,000 to 15,000 km per year - a lot of good it would do me. However,
all of
>the taxi's use liquified petroleum gas, as they are doing well above
this
>figure...
>
>Danny Barrett.
>
>P.S.: it's been that long since I've looked at the price of fule down
here
>that I had forgotten that the price had gone down - in Tasmania, it's
now
>about 75 Aussy cents per litre for leaded (what my car currently
requires),
>and 73 cents per litre for unleaded. This equates to about $4.37 (US)
per US
>gallon, and $4.25 (US) per US gallon, respectively. As for LPG
(propane), it
>is about $0.45 per litre, or $2.62 (US) per US gallon.
>
>
>
>>If I lived in an area where gas prices are that high, I would be a lot
>>more agressive in my plans for running my Full-Sized Jeep on propane or
>>methane.  Right now, there isn't enough of a price advantage.

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On Tue, 05 May 1998 16:39:00 -0500 dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave
Williams) writes:
>
>-> Yes, I agree. In fact, I think that if as much time, effort, and
>-> money was put into the development of a turbine engine (like the
>-> Chrysler one) as has been put into the engines we currently run, the
>-> "200 MPG carb" type idea would be a case of "so what!" In the case of
>-> the Chrysler turbine, it had a
>
> Chrysler spent tens of millions of dollars on their turbine, and two
>generations of Chrysler engineers tried to make it workable in a car.
>Rover, General Motors, and Fiat also poured pounds, dollars, and lira
>down the turbine drain.
>
> There are three problems with turbines.  One is scale; smaller car-size
>turbines are less efficient than truck-size or airplane-size turbines.
>Another problem is problem is output; the turbine has a high
>speed output shaft with a relatively narrow RPM band.  Various schemes
>of variable pitch blades, hydraulic couplings, and whatnot were used by
>the prototypes.  The third problem is the turbine runs essentially wide
>open all the time.  For a 200hp motor the efficiency would be
>acceptable; but throttling a turbine back to 25hp for cruise resulted in
>dramatic loss of efficiency compared to a conventional engine.
>
> Chrysler and Rover built driveable prototypes, but throttle response
>and fuel consumption were unacceptable.  None of the advances in
>computer-aided design, metallurgy, or exotic materials have been enough
>to overcome the turbines' problems.
>
> Fiat and GM built turbine powered trucks for a while, but even scaled
>up to that size they were not able to beat the Diesels' lower cost.
>
>==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us======================================
>I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you?
>my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM |   who, who?
>====================================http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm

If you can get them to run efficiently at power levels of around 100 KW,
they might be useful in automobiles with the appropriate transmission.

Use the turbine at the most efficient throttle and speed to run a
hydraulic pump.  Use this pump to turn hydraulic motors in each wheel,
and to pump up an accumulater.  If you can store 10 - 20 gallons of
hydraulic oil at 3000 - 5000 PSI, you can store a lot of energy (I
calculated it out when I was in tenth grade - a looooong time ago).  Once
the accumulater is filled, throttle the turbine down to a level that'll
just barely keep it hot enough.  This can be a trivial amount of fuel
flow if the housing is well insulated and the exhaust pipe is mostly
closed off (sort of like idling a diesel).

Some research will be necessary to optomize the size of the engine.  A
big engine will be more efficient, but will have more idle (fuel wasting)
time compared to the time it is actually producing power.

You can use the same princable with a generater, battery, and motors.  If
you want to get with a researcher named Bitterly, you can use a flywheel
as the power storage device.

You could, of course, run this thing on anything from natural gas to
caster oil.


Ray Drouillard

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From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 01:52:55 1998
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Subject: Re: Danny's Summary: more water injection
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This seems to be probably the best explaination that I've heard on whether
H2O injection will work or not. I have one question. This may seem llike a
silly question to you, but I'm mot farmiliar with the stuff I've left below
(from your email), so please bear with me... Since water is injected in the
liquid state, and hence displaces a negligible amount of the gases, would
the presence of steam after TDC raise the pressure within the combustion
chamber simply through the fact that there is "more there?" Or is this an
invalid assumption? Or, on the other hand, if it is correct, would the
difference made be too small to be bothered with?

Also, thanks for your info. on the patents. Unfortunately, the laws
concerning disclosure of patent details are different in Australia, and
we're not basically not alowed to tell anyone until the patent office makes
the submission open for public scrutiny. In any case, I don't yet have the
funds required to convert my car so that I could try it out, let alone get a
patent. I would have to wait until I've finished my degree, in a couple of
years.

Anyway, thanks all the same.

Danny Barrett.

>By using the Peng/Robinson Equation of State, water, NO, and CO2 exhibit
the following vapor volumes.  The 
>higher the vapor volume, obviously, the greater the expansion force.
>
>water: 4544 cm3 per mole 
>NO: 4499 cm3 per mole    
>CO2: 4548 cm3 per mole
>
>To make a long story short...all inert gases appear to have the same effect
here??  These numbers depend on 
>critial pressure, critical temp, and acentric factor.  This is by no means
an ideal gas calculation.  
>Apparently at these conditions, it doesnt matter what compound is present.


From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 03:00:48 1998
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Subject: Re: 747 meet 730, 730 meet 165
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 03:03:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.3.96.980506211305.31747A-100000@svn.net> from "T Hergen" at May 6, 98 09:34:49 pm
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> 
> I think  the sensors that get gnd and +5v such as the map and tps (not
> the [heated] O2) can be shared.  I don't think they rely on a resistor
> divider arrangement like the coolant temp sensor.  The map on my '92 GM
> truck even appears to have an internal amplifier/buffer (can't measure
> resistance, but give it gnd and +5v and a voltage that changes with
> vacuum comes out [no pullup needed]).
> 
> Using an external pullup on the coolant sensor followed by an op amp may
> or may not work.  Others on the list indicated that some ECMs switch in
> different pullup value depending on the temperature (improves ECMs
> measurement resolution over particular ranges).  If you're just using
> potentiometer to simulate the coolant sensor, adjust the pot for the same
> voltage in the dual ECM case as in the single and they should indicate the
> same temperature.  The only time the pot may be a problem is when your
> near the range where the ECMs want to switch the pullup value -- anyone
> know about what temperature this happens?


an op amp could also be used as  buffering device with unity gain to
take care of the inputs that are current based

Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 04:26:38 1998
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From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Water injection and racing & more
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 09:23:03 +0100
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This was a common device used by some of the thundersaloon teams to cool
off disks , the ammount of water used is minimal, and it won't go on the
track as the heat on the disks vaporises any residue fluid...

As for DIY EFI, I don't think that it has much to do with it, though
neither has Aero engines, catalytic cracking, ceramic coatings et al, I
for one am happy that we have an eclectic mix of 'performance' and
technical subjects on this list.

Rob Humphris

>----------
>From: 	Michael Kasimirsky[SMTP:mtk@tmc.astm.cmri.cmu.edu]
>Sent: 	06 May 1998 19:51
>To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject: 	RE: Water injection and racing & more
>
>[...details of watering brake drums deleted...]
>
>Well, I don't know what kind of racing you are doing, but most racing
>organizations would black flag you, and rightfully so, for spraying
>water where it can fall on the track.  If this is dirt then just forget
>I mentioned anything, but spraying fluids on pavement creates a VERY
>dangerous situation for the competitors behind you.
>
>What this has to do with DIY-EFI I don't know, but I road race
>motorcycles and ideas like this scare the crap out of me.
>

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 04:30:54 1998
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Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 02:17:16 -0600
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Robert Humphris wrote:
> 
> I've done the ceramic coating at home as well, but I had trouble getting
> my cylinder head into the oven, now you lot say you use toaster
> ovens....  You Americans must have very big slices of bread...
> 
> Rob Humphris
> 
> >I took this individuals recommendation and demoted my toaster
> >oven from "toaster" to "ceramic coater".
> >
> >
I'm having trouble getting my parts into the oven, too. 
It's not the physical size, they're being obstructed by the
cook. : )

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 04:33:37 1998
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From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: High MPG
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Have any of you seen those people that make jet engines from turbos?
One of them used an Air/Oil emulsion for bearing lubrication.  No
additional modifications were needed for the turbo, but I couldn't see
this as being all that usable on a car or bike... where would you put
the compressor?

>----------
>From: 	dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us[SMTP:dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us]
>Sent: 	06 May 1998 23:16
>To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject: 	Re: High MPG
>
>
>-> regenerative braking and massive power switching module.  On top of
>-> all that, pure water was used for cooling of motor and get this: was
>-> fluid used in turbine's journal bearings instead of oil.
>
> Sure, water will work just fine.  Take a look at a big hydroelectric
>turbine sometime; chances are it'll have water plumbed to sleeve
>bearings.  Once the shaft is spinning any fluid will do - even air,
>which is often used in very high speed applications.
>
> Automobiles use oil-fed plain bearings primarily because they already
>*have* oil in the crankcase to lube the myriad things which require
>lubrication, so it makes sense to use oil.
>                                                                
>

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 04:45:28 1998
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From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Boingers
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 09:42:03 +0100
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The point with the Wankel is that it is a 1.3, where as a Camaro is
what, 3 times that displacement? Yet they have similar performance.  Add
that to the weight of the engine, which does add to the performance of
the car ( less weight = better power to weight ratio, and better
handling as the car ceases to be engine heavy, so you start getting
easier moments of force on the car ).
Lets compare like for like, I guarentee that if you added sufficent
number of rotors to take the displacement to that of the Camaro, fuel
injected it, you would be unable to out drag it.  Then if you take the
same displacement as the Saturn ( What is one of these we don't have
that model over here in the UK ) and put it in a similar weight car,
that the engine would be just as lively, and the performance would be as
good if not better as the weight would be less.

Two stroke direct injection engines?  We will see what they are like
when they are mass produced.

Rob Humphris
>
>I'm not talking about specialized racing applications, or even how many
>people it takes to pick it up.  I understand that the power/weight ratio
>is better than a four-stroke piston engine.  I'm talking about what sells
>cars.  Go down to your favorite Mazda dealer and drive one.  Yah, it's
>pretty fast and gets decent mileage.  Now, go to a Chevy dealer and hop
>into a Camaro Z28.  It'll blow the doors of the RX7, and the mileage
>still isn't that bad.  Now, go hop into a Saturn twin cam.  Much better
>mileage and not too shabby on the performance.
>
>My point is that the mileage/performance balance isn't significently (if
>at all) better than the other cars you can buy off the lot.  If I have to
>swap an engine, I might appreciate that it is lighter.  When I'm driving,
>I appreciate the performance of the car as a whole.
>
>There are some directly injected two-stroke engines on the drawing
>boards.  I don't have the exact figures, but I would be willing to bet
>(if I were a betting man) that the power/weight ratio of these
>two-strokers will be similar to the Wankyl.  They won't, however, suffer
>from the wierd-shaped combustion chamber and longevity of the Wankyl.
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 04:46:49 1998
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Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 03:28:01 -0500
From: Walter <corsaro@brokersys.com>
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Does anyone know where I could find an off the shelf map sensor with
a 0 to 5v output? 

thanks, walter

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 05:11:04 1998
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Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 02:57:30 -0600
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Ahhh.  Memories of Old Rhienbeck Aerodrome.  That engine has
no throttle, only a switch for something like 1/3, 2/3, and
full power.  Kills spark plugs but doesn't stop fuel flow
through engine.  Lots of those (Fokker?) went down in fire
according to announcer.  Caution for DIY Rev limiter.

Wild show, BTW.
Shannen
kenkelly@lucent.com wrote:
> 
> I've only seen one radial that bolted the Crank to the
> firewall and mounted the prop to the cylinders. It was a
> Biplane from 1910 + or - 2 years. I actually saw it give a
> demo flight. The rotating cylinders required a very short
> exhaust pipe, and it really barked when it ran.
> 
>         If you want to see one it was at the rhienbech Airodrome in
> Rheinbech, NY. During the summer months they actually put on
> weekend shows where you can see WWI and earlier aircraft
> fly.
> 
>                 Ken
> 
> Clive Apps Techno-Logicals 416 510 0020 wrote:
> >
> > > >
> > > > >I believe the British made an      engine that did that.
> > > > Yea, Aero engines... 12 cylinders ( or more ) with the prop bolted onto
> > > > the cylinders, round and round they went, vroooom... all that air flow
> > > > over the casing kept it nice and cool.  Not much use in a car though.
> > >
> > > I must have missed that one in my searches...all the rotary engines I know
> > > of were single row radials with 7 cylinders. Any more info on the 12
> > > cylinder [or more] item?
> > >
> > > Jim Davies
> >
> > they cam with 5, 6, 7, 9 cyl in one row
> > or 2 row models up to 18 cyl
> > not all of these are rotaing block types
> > most were rotating crank
> >
> > the bearing loads on a this amount of rataign mass were unbeleivable
> >
> > Clive
> > >

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 05:19:05 1998
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From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: High MPG
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 10:15:43 +0100
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I had this problem, but found that it could be overcome with an offer of
a meal out that evening.

>----------
>From: 	Shannen Durphey[SMTP:shannen@mcn.net]
>Sent: 	07 May 1998 09:17
>To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject: 	Re: High MPG
>
>Robert Humphris wrote:
>> 
>> I've done the ceramic coating at home as well, but I had trouble getting
>> my cylinder head into the oven, now you lot say you use toaster
>> ovens....  You Americans must have very big slices of bread...
>> 
>> Rob Humphris
>> 
>> >I took this individuals recommendation and demoted my toaster
>> >oven from "toaster" to "ceramic coater".
>> >
>> >
>I'm having trouble getting my parts into the oven, too. 
>It's not the physical size, they're being obstructed by the
>cook. : )
>
>Shannen
>

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 05:39:18 1998
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From: "Jake Lindeke" <jlindeke@bsfh.org>
Organization: Supra Owners Group International
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> Have any of you seen those people that make jet engines from turbos?
> One of them used an Air/Oil emulsion for bearing lubrication.  No
> additional modifications were needed for the turbo, but I couldn't see
> this as being all that usable on a car or bike... where would you put the
> compressor?

I made a Turbine Jet, but cant think what you are talking about. Could you get 
a picture for us to look at?
--Jake Lindeke
--SOGI South-East Chapter Coordinator
--http://sesogi.bsfh.org

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 06:44:35 1998
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From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: High MPG
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God knows where it was, I was looking from one of the turbo jet home
pages, the bloke used a Mitsubishi Turbo, I have no idea where his page
is...

Rob Humphris

>----------
>From: 	Jake Lindeke[SMTP:jlindeke@bsfh.org]
>Sent: 	07 May 1998 10:45
>To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject: 	RE: High MPG
>
>> Have any of you seen those people that make jet engines from turbos?
>> One of them used an Air/Oil emulsion for bearing lubrication.  No
>> additional modifications were needed for the turbo, but I couldn't see
>> this as being all that usable on a car or bike... where would you put the
>> compressor?
>
>I made a Turbine Jet, but cant think what you are talking about. Could you
>get 
>a picture for us to look at?
>--Jake Lindeke
>--SOGI South-East Chapter Coordinator
>--http://sesogi.bsfh.org
>

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 06:58:17 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Questions about EGOR
Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 03:58:59 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Wed, 06 May 1998 18:36:42 -0700, garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:

>I'd prefer you going off B+ like another other sensor, rather than a
>slave off the ECM, cuz there's plenty of room on EGOR, the regulator no
>way needs even a heat sink the load's so small, and that way you don't
>add to the load budget of the ECM. Always best to stand alone off BAT+
>if you can.

I got a question about this that makes me wanna correct my
brainstem/typo error in the above sentence. What I meant to say was:
	"I'd prefer you going off BAT+ like any other DEVICE ..."

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 07:08:32 1998
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Subject: Re: Boingers
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That's exactly what *I* thought... The only thing is, how can you run an EFI
system on it? Also, how can you water cool the engine? if this was easily
attainable, it might make a good car engine (given a suitably designed
engine bay). You wouldn't even need a flywheel....

Basically, the pistons rotate about one "pivot" point, and the rest of the
engine rotates aropund another "pivot" point. Two circular motions, and they
even go in the same direction (it wouldn't be physically possible
otherwise)... One of the downsides would be that it wouldn't be very
responsive to the accelerator pedal, as it has all of that inertia in the
crank-case spinning. But, try as I have (in the past, as well as just now)
to figure out how it might be out of balance, I can't find any reason at
all. If, however, the crank was used like a normal ICE, then I think it
might be a different case (unless some sort of counter-balancing mechanism
is used)..

Danny Barrett.




>It is theoretically possible to create a piston engine without
>recriprocating parts.  The cylinders (I would use a radial design) rotate
>around a central axis  The pistons and connecting rods each rotate around
>an axis that is offset from the central axis by a distance of one half
>the stroke of the engine.  Each of the two assemblies would rotate in a
>balanced fashion.
>
>I'm not quite certain what you mean by "perfect dynamic balance", but the
>point is that the piston isn't being forced to acellerate and decellerate
>some 2000 - 14000 times a minute.  They are simply rotating around a
>fixed point.  They'll tilt back and forth a bit relative to the
>connecting rod, and the rotational velocity of the connecting rod and
>piston will go up and down slightly, but this is nothing compared to the
>constant wobbling back and forth that occurs in a standard piston engine.
>
>If you wanted to make such an engine (valving might be a challenge), you
>could go with heavy pistons if you want.  After all, they aren't forced
>to bounce up and down all the time.
>
>Ray Drouillard
>
>_____________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com
>Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 07:13:06 1998
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Subject: Re: map sensor replacement
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Have you tried a wrecker (or whatever they call them wherever you are)????


>Does anyone know where I could find an off the shelf map sensor with
>a 0 to 5v output? 
>
>thanks, walter
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 08:13:22 1998
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cyberdrive.net>
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Subject: Re: Boingers
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All this talk about balance and efficiency has little meaning.
Reciprocating motion is not necessarily wastful.  When one piston slows
down, another is speeding up.  The net result is a flywheel.  A rotating
radial engine would be impractical and offer no benefits.  Piston inertia is
useful in counteracting gas pressure forces and actually reducing bearing
loads.

A Wankle engine's displacement, say the Mazda 1.3 liter, is really mis
measured.  For every crankshaft revolution, a 4 stroke piston engine pumps
1/2 its measured displacement.  A Wankle pumps all of it.  To compare the
two directly, the Wankle engine's displacement must be doubled.  But even
that doesn't matter.  The important parameters of an engine are Specific
Fuel Consumption, Specific Weight, Cost, Emissions and Longevity.
Displacement is only an artificial measure used by racing organizations to
equalize classes (doesn't work very well) and governments (not USA) to
assess taxes.

Wankles are great for high power per size, no valves to get in the way of
flow, lots of rpm (don't forget the rotor rpm is geared up 3x) but as
Raymond pointed out, by the time a whole car is built, there is not much
advantage.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>


>The point with the Wankel is that it is a 1.3, where as a Camaro is
>what, 3 times that displacement? Yet they have similar performance.  Add
>that to the weight of the engine, which does add to the performance of
>the car ( less weight = better power to weight ratio, and better
>handling as the car ceases to be engine heavy, so you start getting
>easier moments of force on the car ).
>Lets compare like for like, I guarentee that if you added sufficent
>number of rotors to take the displacement to that of the Camaro, fuel
>injected it, you would be unable to out drag it.  Then if you take the
>same displacement as the Saturn ( What is one of these we don't have
>that model over here in the UK ) and put it in a similar weight car,
>that the engine would be just as lively, and the performance would be as
>good if not better as the weight would be less.
>
>Two stroke direct injection engines?  We will see what they are like
>when they are mass produced.
>
>Rob Humphris
>>
>>I'm not talking about specialized racing applications, or even how many
>>people it takes to pick it up.  I understand that the power/weight ratio
>>is better than a four-stroke piston engine.  I'm talking about what sells
>>cars.  Go down to your favorite Mazda dealer and drive one.  Yah, it's
>>pretty fast and gets decent mileage.  Now, go to a Chevy dealer and hop
>>into a Camaro Z28.  It'll blow the doors of the RX7, and the mileage
>>still isn't that bad.  Now, go hop into a Saturn twin cam.  Much better
>>mileage and not too shabby on the performance.
>>
>>My point is that the mileage/performance balance isn't significently (if
>>at all) better than the other cars you can buy off the lot.  If I have to
>>swap an engine, I might appreciate that it is lighter.  When I'm driving,
>>I appreciate the performance of the car as a whole.
>>
>>There are some directly injected two-stroke engines on the drawing
>>boards.  I don't have the exact figures, but I would be willing to bet
>>(if I were a betting man) that the power/weight ratio of these
>>two-strokers will be similar to the Wankyl.  They won't, however, suffer
>>from the wierd-shaped combustion chamber and longevity of the Wankyl.
>>
>>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 08:41:33 1998
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On Thu, 7 May 1998, Thomas Matthews wrote:
> What is the asdu bin file that was posted on the FTP site recently
> from? CID,trans, truck size (1/2,3/4,1 ton)...
> Seems like it came out right at first glance...

Good deal. I got it mail order style (from 
Peer's Used Auto Parts--thanks guys, if you're 
here). Also got a dizzy. Didn't get info on the
ECM, but I think they're outta the same truck...
...the dizzy receipt reads "91 TGMC1500 8-350 
(5.7L) 2500 series". I wouldn't guarantee anything,
but they did say the ECM was out of a truck that
had landed on its top.

-greg



From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 09:02:37 1998
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From: "Gwyn Reedy" <mgr@mgrcorp.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Boingers
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 08:57:24 -0400
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I used to fly the Douglas C-124. Had 4 big radials 4360 cu in each,
supercharged. If I recall correctly there were four rows of 9 cylinders
(jugs).

Gwyn Reedy
Brandon, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, May 06, 1998 5:48 PM
Subject: Re: Boingers


>
>
>On Wed, 6 May 1998, Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020 wrote:
>
>> > >
>> > > >I believe the British made an engine that did that.
>> > > Yea, Aero engines... 12 cylinders ( or more ) with the prop bolted
onto
>> > > the cylinders, round and round they went, vroooom... all that air
flow
>> > > over the casing kept it nice and cool.  Not much use in a car though.
>> >
>> > I must have missed that one in my searches...all the rotary engines I
know
>> > of were single row radials with 7 cylinders. Any more info on the 12
>> > cylinder [or more] item?
>> >
>> > Jim Davies
>>
>>
>> they cam with 5, 6, 7, 9 cyl in one row
>> or 2 row models up to 18 cyl
>> not all of these are rotaing block types
>> most were rotating crank
>>
>Who made the 2 row rotary?
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 09:57:12 1998
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Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 08:57:17 -0500
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From: Bruce Lewis <pblewis@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Boingers
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At 07:58 AM 5/7/98 -0400, Gary Derian wrote:
<SNIP>
>
>Wankles are great for high power per size, no valves to get in the way of
>flow, lots of rpm (don't forget the rotor rpm is geared up 3x) but as
>Raymond pointed out, by the time a whole car is built, there is not much
>advantage.
>
>Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>
>
Actually the Rotors are geared down by a factor of 3. For each revolution
of the crank (eccentric shaft) each rotor orbits the shaft by 1/3. Hence if
the shaft is turning at 6,000 rpm the rotors are orbiting at 2,000 rpm.

This is why you have a combustion volume equal to the displacement of the
rotors for one revolution of the shaft. Each rotor will disaplace 3 times
it's volume per revolution of the rotor. For one revolution of the shaft
one of the three faces of the rotor have a combustion cycle. Thus on a
rotary the combustion volume per revolution equals the displacement and a
piston engine is 1/2 it's displacement. If the rotors were geared up you
would have a combustion displacement equal to 3 times the displacement or 6
times that of a piston engine.

Bruce Lewis

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Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 10:11:12 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Boingers
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Robert Humphris wrote:
> 
> The point with the Wankel is that it is a 1.3, where as a Camaro is
> what, 3 times that displacement? Yet they have similar performance.  Add
> that to the weight of the engine, which does add to the performance of
> the car ( less weight = better power to weight ratio, and better
> handling as the car ceases to be engine heavy, so you start getting
> easier moments of force on the car ).
> Lets compare like for like, I guarentee that if you added sufficent
> number of rotors to take the displacement to that of the Camaro, fuel
> injected it, you would be unable to out drag it.  Then if you take the
> same displacement as the Saturn ( What is one of these we don't have
> that model over here in the UK ) and put it in a similar weight car,
> that the engine would be just as lively, and the performance would be as
> good if not better as the weight would be less.
> 
> Two stroke direct injection engines?  We will see what they are like
> when they are mass produced.
> 
> Rob Humphris
> >
> >I'm not talking about specialized racing applications, or even how many
> >people it takes to pick it up.  I understand that the power/weight ratio
> >is better than a four-stroke piston engine.  I'm talking about what sells
> >cars.  Go down to your favorite Mazda dealer and drive one.  Yah, it's
> >pretty fast and gets decent mileage.  Now, go to a Chevy dealer and hop
> >into a Camaro Z28.  It'll blow the doors of the RX7, and the mileage
> >still isn't that bad.  Now, go hop into a Saturn twin cam.  Much better
> >mileage and not too shabby on the performance.
> >
> >My point is that the mileage/performance balance isn't significently (if
> >at all) better than the other cars you can buy off the lot.  If I have to
> >swap an engine, I might appreciate that it is lighter.  When I'm driving,
> >I appreciate the performance of the car as a whole.
> >
> >There are some directly injected two-stroke engines on the drawing
> >boards.  I don't have the exact figures, but I would be willing to bet
> >(if I were a betting man) that the power/weight ratio of these
> >two-strokers will be similar to the Wankyl.  They won't, however, suffer
> >from the wierd-shaped combustion chamber and longevity of the Wankyl.
> >
> >
With the Wankel you have to compare to a two stroke, not a 4 stroke.
Compare 1.3 litres to 2.6, and things start to even out.When you get
125HP out of 600cc, normally aspirtated and carbureted 3 cyl water
cooled 2 stroker weighing less than 75 lbs, that translates to better
than 250 for 1.3 litres. Power domes (higher compression) and pipes can
easily put the 600 over 180HP - thats pushing 400 for 1.3 liters, and
you are not even getting tricky yet. Old Felix had a good and novel idea
- but it has not panned out as well as he hoped.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 10:08:18 1998
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From: "Al Sites" <al@b137a5.hacc.edu>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Boingers
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 10:06:33 -0400
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With the Mazda rotary for each turn of the eccentric shaft the rotor only
turns 1/3 of a rev.

Al Sites
83 RX-7 GSL

-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Derian <gderian@cyberdrive.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, May 07, 1998 9:26 AM
Subject: Re: Boingers


>All this talk about balance and efficiency has little meaning.
>Reciprocating motion is not necessarily wastful.  When one piston slows
>down, another is speeding up.  The net result is a flywheel.  A rotating
>radial engine would be impractical and offer no benefits.  Piston inertia
is
>useful in counteracting gas pressure forces and actually reducing bearing
>loads.
>
>A Wankle engine's displacement, say the Mazda 1.3 liter, is really mis
>measured.  For every crankshaft revolution, a 4 stroke piston engine pumps
>1/2 its measured displacement.  A Wankle pumps all of it.  To compare the
>two directly, the Wankle engine's displacement must be doubled.  But even
>that doesn't matter.  The important parameters of an engine are Specific
>Fuel Consumption, Specific Weight, Cost, Emissions and Longevity.
>Displacement is only an artificial measure used by racing organizations to
>equalize classes (doesn't work very well) and governments (not USA) to
>assess taxes.
>
>Wankles are great for high power per size, no valves to get in the way of
>flow, lots of rpm (don't forget the rotor rpm is geared up 3x) but as
>Raymond pointed out, by the time a whole car is built, there is not much
>advantage.
>
>Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>
>
>From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
>
>
>>The point with the Wankel is that it is a 1.3, where as a Camaro is
>>what, 3 times that displacement? Yet they have similar performance.  Add
>>that to the weight of the engine, which does add to the performance of
>>the car ( less weight = better power to weight ratio, and better
>>handling as the car ceases to be engine heavy, so you start getting
>>easier moments of force on the car ).
>>Lets compare like for like, I guarentee that if you added sufficent
>>number of rotors to take the displacement to that of the Camaro, fuel
>>injected it, you would be unable to out drag it.  Then if you take the
>>same displacement as the Saturn ( What is one of these we don't have
>>that model over here in the UK ) and put it in a similar weight car,
>>that the engine would be just as lively, and the performance would be as
>>good if not better as the weight would be less.
>>
>>Two stroke direct injection engines?  We will see what they are like
>>when they are mass produced.
>>
>>Rob Humphris
>>>
>>>I'm not talking about specialized racing applications, or even how many
>>>people it takes to pick it up.  I understand that the power/weight ratio
>>>is better than a four-stroke piston engine.  I'm talking about what sells
>>>cars.  Go down to your favorite Mazda dealer and drive one.  Yah, it's
>>>pretty fast and gets decent mileage.  Now, go to a Chevy dealer and hop
>>>into a Camaro Z28.  It'll blow the doors of the RX7, and the mileage
>>>still isn't that bad.  Now, go hop into a Saturn twin cam.  Much better
>>>mileage and not too shabby on the performance.
>>>
>>>My point is that the mileage/performance balance isn't significently (if
>>>at all) better than the other cars you can buy off the lot.  If I have to
>>>swap an engine, I might appreciate that it is lighter.  When I'm driving,
>>>I appreciate the performance of the car as a whole.
>>>
>>>There are some directly injected two-stroke engines on the drawing
>>>boards.  I don't have the exact figures, but I would be willing to bet
>>>(if I were a betting man) that the power/weight ratio of these
>>>two-strokers will be similar to the Wankyl.  They won't, however, suffer
>>>from the wierd-shaped combustion chamber and longevity of the Wankyl.
>>>
>>>


From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 10:09:43 1998
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Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 09:11:29 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: James Paul <jpfa@micro.ti.com>
Subject: FORD EEC IV information
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  Scott,

  I was asking around about FORD EEC IV system algorithims and how they work.
  Such as what inputs are looked at, and what values of those inputs cause a
  given output action, etc., etc.   I want to know this information because I
  have two vehicles, both use the EEC IV and SEFI, and I want to be able to
  understand, troubleshoot and repair these vehicles myself.  I started study-
  ing this system due to a minor problem with one of the vehicles, and have
  become more intrigued the further I get into it.  It is absolutely facinating
  how these components all work together to control all the different systems
  on a modern auto, and to work in such harmony is great.  Someone gave  me
a copy of your email address,and said that you said that if there are any
  questions about FORD, let you know as you were a FORD tech before going
  independent. so I thought I'd inquire.   Anyway, my question to you is do 
  you or can you get the the algorithims used in the EEC IV ECM, and if so,
  could I get a copy.  Again, this information will be used exclusively by
  myself for study and Repair & Maintenance purposes.   Any help you could
  afford would be greatly appreciated.  By the way, I have the Probst book on
  FORD fuel injection and performance tuning.  In there, he gives the basic
  strategies for the different engine operating scenarios, but I want something
  a little more in depth and on the software side of things.  My main purpose 
  is to be able to possibly check a few sensor outputs and be able to figure
  what a given output should be.  Knowing this, I can then measure the outputs
  and see if all is as it should be.  If not, I'll know a little better where 
  to look for the problem.   Also, if you have any information on what are
  the most likely causes for each of the different fault codes, I'd appreciate
  your input in that area too.   I hope you can help me out here.  I'll be
  awaiting your reply.   You can email me at either of the following email
  addresses......   JPFA@msg.ti.com   -or-   j-paul2@ti.com
  Thanks for listening to my request.


                                                  Thanks and Regards,

                                                     Jim Paul




From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 10:28:16 1998
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From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: High MPG
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 08:24:14 -0700
Encoding: 47 TEXT, 64 UUENCODE
X-MS-Attachment: WINMAIL.DAT 0 00-00-1980 00:00
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Check out
http://www.gas-turbines.com/hobby/nye.htm   Even has sound available.

I was on the mailing list for a while -- lots of fun.

The hot ticket right now is so-called micro turbines.  Several companies 
are gearing up to supply the 'distributed generation' market, i.e. a power 
station on the roof of every Burger King.  (Seems like a dumb idea to me, 
but with companies such as Enron pushing the concept it'll likely happen to 
some degree or other.)  These little screamers generate up to 200kw or so 
at about 30% cycle efficiency.  Several of them use air bearings.

The next step in large CTs is steam-cooled components (so called 'G-class' 
technology) which will allow firing temps of 2600 deg. F.  Current 
technology allows 2300 degree firing temps.  Actually, 'current technology' 
 ('F-class) is viewed by many within the industry to be a giant R&D project 
funded by the insurance companies.  When one of the 'F class' machines 
breaks, the insurance companies pay the business interruption claim...

Fuel cells will have a big impact -- A 2.0 MW demonstration project 
recently ended a successful two-year run -- but gas turbines will continue 
to see use in power stations because of the steam production possible from 
the exhaust stream.  My plant, for example, has a total net cycle 
efficiency of about 68% including electricity and steam sold to a potato 
processor.

For automotive use gas turbines are clearly a bust due to lousy part-load 
heat rate.  Until fuel cells achieve acceptance, the good old ICE is still 
hard to beat...

Mike J.

Jake Lindeke wrote:

> Have any of you seen those people that make jet engines from turbos?
> One of them used an Air/Oil emulsion for bearing lubrication.  No
> additional modifications were needed for the turbo, but I couldn't see
> this as being all that usable on a car or bike... where would you put the
> compressor?

I made a Turbine Jet, but cant think what you are talking about. Could you 
get
a picture for us to look at?
--Jake Lindeke
--SOGI South-East Chapter Coordinator
--http://sesogi.bsfh.org>>


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M0">P+J/Y*F%.;Y+7>\ MD"ZR*N'_!&$&D):U8!$$D$.2"8 I47\DDB."DF,T
MY"+P!:!E4&3_+N!#X0G@DM=3$2N1:B(D`O\I(9"D-R APB-")- I$#J1_T'!
M,Y&!823AF:)ED)O!CT/_-Q G@150DM<K$ADP=B*2QN\BAP# #; DP50>Q(*P
M+U+_-0(I$$PB-T$=`"3P/F&/4OLKLG!A:YV3/J(J8 A1H*7_*_"+%R_A)[ >
ML4X1!;$W(/UZM&\=`"Z@DL8E4(<JJL<H4T]'(O!3'2%H+?Y%'H %0!S .3!=
M<:>A!;#[<Q%UD7*JQQW%$? A$%2PI"YB93!H+@6P9X?O^1R@/CZ,S8J_B\\+
M51+R%XV-"H4840"W< ```P`0$ `````#`!$0`@```$ `!S#0IL-ZQGF]`4 `
H"##0IL-ZQGF]`1X`/0`!````!0```%)%.B ``````P`--/TW``#AK'F]
`
end


From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 10:42:25 1998
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From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: 747 meet 730, 730 meet 165
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 08:38:25 -0700
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Some models of industrial pressure/vacuum transmitters use a variable capacitor as the sensor.  Is that perhaps how a typical MAP works?

Mike J.

 
> I think  the sensors that get gnd and +5v such as the map and tps (not
> the [heated] O2) can be shared.  I don't think they rely on a resistor
> divider arrangement like the coolant temp sensor.  The map on my '92 GM
> truck even appears to have an internal amplifier/buffer (can't measure
> resistance, but give it gnd and +5v and a voltage that changes with
> vacuum comes out [no pullup needed]).


From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 10:56:59 1998
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cyberdrive.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Boingers
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 10:52:36 -0400
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Thanks, Bruce, I meant to say the crankshaft (wobble shaft?) is geared up
3x.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

From: Bruce Lewis <pblewis@mindspring.com>


>At 07:58 AM 5/7/98 -0400, Gary Derian wrote:
><SNIP>
>>(don't forget the rotor rpm is geared up 3x)
>>
>>Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>
>>
>Actually the Rotors are geared down by a factor of 3.
<snip>
>Bruce Lewis


From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 11:22:00 1998
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On Thu, 7 May 1998, Walter wrote:
> Does anyone know where I could find an off the shelf map sensor with
> a 0 to 5v output? 

I'm not sure I understand the question...the map sensors I've got
(GM) require GND and 5v inputs and the output is sumthin in
the middle.  Works just like the TPS but measures a different
parameter. The junker wanted $15! Not sure about the parts
house price, yet. I think there are MAPs for NA cars and different 
ones  for turbos. The pressure range is different, but the output is
still 0-5v.

Thats already more than I know. Corrections welcome,
-greg


From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 11:56:03 1998
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From: d houlton x0710  <tc75918@hpnfssvr.mdhc.mdc.com>
Message-Id: <199805071556.IAA10390@hprs9.mdhc.mdc.com>
Subject: Re: Boingers
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 08:56:44 -0700 (MST)
In-Reply-To: <01bd7901$193d0700$0100007f@zippy> from "M&D" at May 6, 98 11:10:25 am
Organization: McDonnell Douglas Helicopter
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M&D wrote:
> 
> You can block off the oil injection and premix, use a small efi pump and
> 2-cycle oil to feed a relocated oil metering pump, whatever. Racing rotaries
> go to extremes and therefore their engineering solutions can be extreme too.
> This really screws up the emissions on a street car, and can clog your cat
> converter. The stock cats are very prone to clogging anyway, and
> restrictive. That's why you can see almost 40% power increase just from
> upgrading the exhaust. BTW, I have a combined total of 400,000 miles on 3
> rotary engines and have never had carbon fouling problems, at least that I
> could see with a borescope.
> 
> To the person claiming no significant performance or mileage benefit from a
> rotary: (with aftermarket exhaust) 225 HP at the flywheel, naturally
> aspirated, in 1.3 liters of displacement in a 2500 lb. car. 18-25 mpg
> depending on driving style. The mpg is similar to a V8, as is the power, but
> a 13B engine can be easily lifted by 2 men (about 300 lbs., with all the
> accessories still attached).  That alone is a significant advantage over a
> V8. With attached turbo, rotaries are reliably running up to 400 hp on the
> street. Mileage remains similar. Can you say that for a 400HP piston engine?
> 
> Mind you all, I have nothing against piston engines, it's just that they are
> WAY antiquated and it's time we come up with something else. I personally
> favor a small turbine running a generator, and thence electric motors. Like
> the APU from an airplane, but smaller. Piston engines have so much friction
> and reciprocating loss it's just unbelievable.


Have you seen the rotary that Moller International has been working on?  He's
been at it for like 20 years or something.  I think his is based off of an
OMC outboard design.  Anyways, he's supposed to have some kind of super-duper
proprietary seals and coatings that solve the seal and emission problems.
Take a look-see.  Could be all hype, but I think he got some kind of grant
from NASA so there may be something to it.

http://www.moller.com/~mi/frames.htm


--Dan

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 13:19:27 1998
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Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 10:18:21 -0700
From: "Scott Mo." <scottmo@teleport.com>
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Motorola makes some nice pressure sensors, the MPX4250AP is designed for
turbo charged vehicles, 0.2-5 V output. MPX4100AP I believe is used for
the Naturally Aspirated vehicles. Thse cost somewhere between $15-40 but
I have had some trouble getting them reliably.

Go to 

http://mot2.indirect.com/senseon/pressure.html

for more info.
HTH
Scott Mo.
1989 200TQ
1988 5000TQ
1966 VW Beetle
http://www.teleport.com/~scottmo

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 13:20:59 1998
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From: T Hergen <thergen@svn.net>
To: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: map sensor replacement
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The map from a Chevy '92 S10 4.3L vin W has a 0 - 5v map output.  It is
not like the passive potentiometer of the common GM tps.  It appears to
have some active buffering (likely an op amp).  Resistance measurements
are futile, but it does produce a varying voltage output with vacuum if
you give it gnd and +5v on the appropriate terminals.  The only caveat is
that this particular sensor mounts directly to the intake manifold. 
Depending on your application, you may want one that mounts on the
firewall and has a barb for a vacuum hose.

Tom

On Thu, 7 May 1998, Walter wrote:

> Does anyone know where I could find an off the shelf map sensor with
> a 0 to 5v output? 
> 
> thanks, walter
> 


From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 14:46:14 1998
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Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 11:41:32 -0800
From: Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
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Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net> wrote:
>
> > what processor is run in the thing?
>
> The 1227747 is in the C-3 generation of gm ecm's which all use,
> a Motorola 6809 type of device, and the newer P-4's use a 68HC11
> type.  The "type" is that, it is to gm specs, and there are small
> differences from a ecm processor to a off the self device, as I
> understand things.

Not a 6809!  In it's day, the 6809 was a far too high end processor to
show up in an engine controller.  (The 6809 is partially source code
compatible with the 6800/6801/68HC11, but not object code compatible.)

The C3's use something like a 6801.  A real 6801 is a 6800 with some
extra instructions, ROM, RAM, and IO all in a 40 pin DIP.  GM's chip is
just the 6801 CPU core in a 40 pin DIP using a pinout very similar to a
6800 CPU.

               unsigned long BinToBCD(unsigned long i) {unsigned long t;
Ludis Langens     return i ? (t = BinToBCD(i >> 1), (t << 1) + (i & 1) + 
ludis@cruzers.com            (t + 858993459 >> 2 & 572662306) * 3) : 0;}


From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 15:04:47 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 12:27:02 +0000
Subject: Re: map sensor replacement
Priority: normal
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I think Newark electronics has the motorola line.Search the Web for  
sensors.

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 15:06:45 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 12:29:13 +0000
Subject: Re: map sensor replacement
Priority: normal
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I think Newark electronics has the motorola line.Search the Web for  
sensors.

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 15:58:39 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: map sensor replacement
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 15:59:03 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Walter <corsaro@brokersys.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Thursday, May 07, 1998 5:20 AM
Subject: map sensor replacement


>Does anyone know where I could find an off the shelf map sensor with
>a 0 to 5v output?
>
>thanks, walter
>
The General (motors) offers three 1 bar, normal atmospheric pressure, a 2
bar for turbo applications (up to 14.7 psi boost)
used on syclones/tyfoons/sunbird turbos, and a 3 bar used on
89 Turbo Trans-Ams.  A 87-91 GM Pickup (v-8) uses the one bar,
and easy to find.  Also used on 90-92 F-bodies (Cam/F-Bird).
Any NA TBI as a matter of fact (gm).
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 17:03:54 1998
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Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 07:09:24 +1000
From: Justin Albury <jalbury@tpgi.com.au>
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Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
References: <199805062156.RAA41910@f04n01.cac.psu.edu>
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Paul Tholey wrote:
> 
> Where the h*ll can I get that K*ck *ss TPI intake in the Holdens?  I am serious!
> 
> Paul Tholey


which one of the intakes would you like???  Holden ran 2 from the
factory. one was for the every day normal production tpi which with a
little p&p was good for around 250kw and the other is the monster off
the group-A it is a twin t-bodie setup with a huge plemin chamber with
stright runners that if you shine a light down the runner you can see
the valve and up the top end are some s/steel trumpets which with little
mods can be made adjustable........these little babys are good for 400kw
now that is 500hp+  std t-bodies are 1000cfm and they ran bosch green
injectors with a delco p4 808 ecm    :-)

apar from that they are also made after market by motec in a twin t-body
that lays flat with curved runners to fit under the hood.

ill scan some pic's on the weekend when i get my scanner back and mail
em to the list.

justin

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 19:08:02 1998
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Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 17:49:09 -0500
From: Walter <corsaro@brokersys.com>
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Subject: map sensor replacement-2
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Thanks for all you replies.
The sensor has to be mounted on a circuit board and uses 5v
power. It goes in a fuel injection brain from a Jaguar XJS (
the brain goes in the trunk and there is a vacuum hose from
it ALL the way to the engine compartment!).
I would prefer not to have to go to the junk yard every time
I need one. I did search the 'net' but I don't think I did
it thoroughly enough.Will try again later. I did find an
intersesting site:

http://www.hitachi.co.jp/Div/apd/english/products/engine.html#04

The Motorola part sound promising.

 Walter

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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Boingers
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 09:09:03 +1000
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I'd argue the Wankel is equivalent to 1.3L (i.e a 13B Mazda)

It fires each chamber/rotor 3 times per revolution and hence completes a 
full combustion cycle once for each revolution, much like a 2 stroke. A 
conventional 4 stroke needs a 2 revolution "window" for a complete 
combustion cycle.

The Wankel has effectively double the capacity for its swept volume when 
comparing to an equivalent 4 stroke engine simply because it can induce and 
burn twice its capacity compared to the same sized 4 stroke.

Peter

----------
From: 	Robert Humphris
Sent: 	Thursday, May 07, 1998 6:42 PM
To: 	'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'
Subject: 	RE: Boingers

The point with the Wankel is that it is a 1.3, where as a Camaro is
what, 3 times that displacement? Yet they have similar performance.  Add
that to the weight of the engine, which does add to the performance of
the car ( less weight = better power to weight ratio, and better
handling as the car ceases to be engine heavy, so you start getting
easier moments of force on the car ).
Lets compare like for like, I guarentee that if you added sufficent
number of rotors to take the displacement to that of the Camaro, fuel
injected it, you would be unable to out drag it.  Then if you take the
same displacement as the Saturn ( What is one of these we don't have
that model over here in the UK ) and put it in a similar weight car,
that the engine would be just as lively, and the performance would be as
good if not better as the weight would be less.

Two stroke direct injection engines?  We will see what they are like
when they are mass produced.

Rob Humphris
>
>I'm not talking about specialized racing applications, or even how many
>people it takes to pick it up.  I understand that the power/weight ratio
>is better than a four-stroke piston engine.  I'm talking about what sells
>cars.  Go down to your favorite Mazda dealer and drive one.  Yah, it's
>pretty fast and gets decent mileage.  Now, go to a Chevy dealer and hop
>into a Camaro Z28.  It'll blow the doors of the RX7, and the mileage
>still isn't that bad.  Now, go hop into a Saturn twin cam.  Much better
>mileage and not too shabby on the performance.
>
>My point is that the mileage/performance balance isn't significently (if
>at all) better than the other cars you can buy off the lot.  If I have to
>swap an engine, I might appreciate that it is lighter.  When I'm driving,
>I appreciate the performance of the car as a whole.
>
>There are some directly injected two-stroke engines on the drawing
>boards.  I don't have the exact figures, but I would be willing to bet
>(if I were a betting man) that the power/weight ratio of these
>two-strokers will be similar to the Wankyl.  They won't, however, suffer
>from the wierd-shaped combustion chamber and longevity of the Wankyl.
>
>


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From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 20:09:40 1998
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From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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To: "diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: map sensor replacement-2
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>.........(the brain goes in the trunk and there is a vacuum hose from
> it ALL the way to the engine compartment!).........

<RAMBLING>
there must be some loss with a hose this lenght ??
i would prefer a intake mounted sensor with a wire the lenght of the car
!!
</RAMBLING>

Alain


From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 21:23:45 1998
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F3 Haltech box uses the Motorola chip one for barometric pressure and
one for map . I also have one that reads inches / water for home-brew
flow bench. Very good parts.

Steve

Walter wrote:

> Thanks for all you replies.
> The sensor has to be mounted on a circuit board and uses 5v
> power. It goes in a fuel injection brain from a Jaguar XJS (
> the brain goes in the trunk and there is a vacuum hose from
> it ALL the way to the engine compartment!).
> I would prefer not to have to go to the junk yard every time
> I need one. I did search the 'net' but I don't think I did
> it thoroughly enough.Will try again later. I did find an
> intersesting site:
>
> http://www.hitachi.co.jp/Div/apd/english/products/engine.html#04
>
> The Motorola part sound promising.
>
>  Walter




From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 21:33:50 1998
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From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Linux Database
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 2@crianlarich.indigo-avs.com>
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Just got word that the database division of my company has just released
the LINUX port of its SQL database, free I would expect for non-commercial,
but it is a really good relational database. Check it out, and No, this is
not an add, as the product is free to download ;-)


www.interbase.com

Sandy

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Alain Toussaint wrote:
> 
> >.........(the brain goes in the trunk and there is a vacuum hose from
> > it ALL the way to the engine compartment!).........
> 
> <RAMBLING>
> there must be some loss with a hose this lenght ??
> i would prefer a intake mounted sensor with a wire the lenght of the car
> !!
> </RAMBLING>
> 
> Alain

That's how they used to be in the 70's when Jaguars used
Bosh fuel injection. In the 80's they let Lucas design their
fuel injection...I think that was a mistake.
 Walter

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 22:03:08 1998
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Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 20:53:42 -0500
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The F3 box has a 6 foot vacuum line from the box to intake . They just
cal.out the error in the tables . Under the dash may be better or if the
unit is very big, mount the map sensor under the dash and feed the
voltage back to the cpu. Your way will work also. Have fun .

Steve

Alain Toussaint wrote:

> >.........(the brain goes in the trunk and there is a vacuum hose from
>
> > it ALL the way to the engine compartment!).........
>
> <RAMBLING>
> there must be some loss with a hose this lenght ??
> i would prefer a intake mounted sensor with a wire the lenght of the
> car
> !!
> </RAMBLING>
>
> Alain




From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 22:07:41 1998
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Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 22:12:18 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
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Walter wrote:
> 
> Thanks for all you replies.
> The sensor has to be mounted on a circuit board and uses 5v
> power. It goes in a fuel injection brain from a Jaguar XJS (
> the brain goes in the trunk and there is a vacuum hose from
> it ALL the way to the engine compartment!).
> I would prefer not to have to go to the junk yard every time
> I need one. I did search the 'net' but I don't think I did
> it thoroughly enough.Will try again later. I did find an
> intersesting site:
> 
> http://www.hitachi.co.jp/Div/apd/english/products/engine.html#04
> 
> The Motorola part sound promising.
> 
>  Walter
I have an idea.
Remove the MAP from the circuit board, get rid of the LLOONNGG vacuum
hose, and run a 3 conductor cord to the engine compartment. Drill the
intake manifold to take one of the GM on-manifold map sensors, and you
are off to the races - with a part that is as easy to get at as it is to
get.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 22:15:15 1998
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From: "Raymond Brantley" <351w@airmail.net>
To: "DIY EFI List Rule" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: MAP Sensor
Date: Thu, 7 May 1998 21:09:22 -0500
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Hi all , I have a question. Ford MAP/BAP sensors produce a frequency
relative to pressure. So you cannot just read the voltage like a TPS.
You need a frequency meter. Are GM's different?



Raymond Brantley


From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 22:46:18 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 19:47:03 -0700
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On Thu, 07 May 1998 20:14:27 -0500, Steven Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
wrote:

>F3 Haltech box uses the Motorola chip one for barometric pressure and
>one for map . I also have one that reads inches / water for home-brew
>flow bench. Very good parts.

Whoa, I had no idea they went down that low. Could you mention what the
part number is for the one that reads inches h2o? I've been looking for
just such a sensor for just the same app; I'd like to build me own flow
bench too! I've looked at the water manometers and somehow hoped there'd
be a more modern alternative. Sounds like you've found it.

Maybe if you have a moment, you could also mention what the
CFM/waterColumn range of your bench that you built is. TIA

Garfield


From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 23:07:18 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Gar
for your test bench, dragon belchder, how about just firng an 
oxy-acetylene torch in the piece of pipe with the sensors.

Bob McKnight
Phx AZ

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 23:07:19 1998
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Gar
for your test bench, dragon belchder, how about just firng an 
oxy-acetylene torch in the piece of pipe with the sensors.

Bob McKnight
Phx AZ

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 23:11:45 1998
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Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 23:16:23 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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Raymond Brantley wrote:
> 
> Hi all , I have a question. Ford MAP/BAP sensors produce a frequency
> relative to pressure. So you cannot just read the voltage like a TPS.
> You need a frequency meter. Are GM's different?
> 
> Raymond Brantley
Yes.
In fact, sometimes the "frequency" type can be read with a voltmeter as
well. If the pulse width is constant, and the frequency changes, simple
integration with a R-C circuit will give you voltage. You might not even
need integration.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 23:22:24 1998
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Subject: Re: map sensor replacement-2
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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In-Reply-To: <355265A5.85922F7C@mwt.net> from "Steven Gorkowski" at May 7, 98 08:53:42 pm
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If you search the archives, you'll find posts about putting cans or whatever
between the sensor and the manifold to smooth out the 'vacuum signal'.
A few feet ain't no big deal.  I'd be more concerned about the vacuum
hose getting squished en route.

Now as to putting the brain in the trunk, that doesn't make much sense
to me.  Makes all the wiring really long and more susceptable to
noise.

> The F3 box has a 6 foot vacuum line from the box to intake . They just
> cal.out the error in the tables . Under the dash may be better or if the
> unit is very big, mount the map sensor under the dash and feed the
> voltage back to the cpu. Your way will work also. Have fun .

> > >.........(the brain goes in the trunk and there is a vacuum hose from
> >
> > > it ALL the way to the engine compartment!).........
> >
> > <RAMBLING>
> > there must be some loss with a hose this lenght ??
> > i would prefer a intake mounted sensor with a wire the lenght of the
> > car
> > !!
> > </RAMBLING>
> >
> > Alain




From diy_efi-owner  Thu May  7 23:32:14 1998
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Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 22:13:28 -0500
From: Walter <corsaro@brokersys.com>
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Clare Snyder wrote:
> 
> Walter wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for all you replies.
> > The sensor has to be mounted on a circuit board and uses 5v
> > power. It goes in a fuel injection brain from a Jaguar XJS (
> > the brain goes in the trunk and there is a vacuum hose from
> > it ALL the way to the engine compartment!).
> > I would prefer not to have to go to the junk yard every time
> > I need one. I did search the 'net' but I don't think I did
> > it thoroughly enough.Will try again later. I did find an
> > intersesting site:
> >
> > http://www.hitachi.co.jp/Div/apd/english/products/engine.html#04
> >
> > The Motorola part sound promising.
> >
> >  Walter
> I have an idea.
> Remove the MAP from the circuit board, get rid of the LLOONNGG vacuum
> hose, and run a 3 conductor cord to the engine compartment. Drill the
> intake manifold to take one of the GM on-manifold map sensors, and you
> are off to the races - with a part that is as easy to get at as it is to
> get.
I wish I had a Jag to do that on. I just repair the ECU's
the rich folks send me.
 Walt

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 00:16:37 1998
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 hi gar 

Checked out books today. Di came out on 89 9000's.IT had a seperate ecu that
just 
took care of timing.I have a bin or two for thies ecu,from days past when saab
would
let us play some,<good old days befor gm took over saab>.So it has been around
a least 10 years.
  jim crance

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Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
References: <35523A65.BF8A5E9F@brokersys.com> <35525C72.8A48F3F5@mwt.net> <362a70b9.268813125@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
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Hi Garfield,

Motorola pressure sensor part # is MPXL5010 0-1.45 psi range (approx
41 in.H2O). Output span is 4.5 V temp compensated on-chip.
Used this part to build a data logger for a SuperFlow 600.
The -dp version of the part reads the test manometer - Output to
LTC1286 12-bit A/D, interrogated by an old hand-held 8-bitter (TI74)
which logged the data for later upload to PC. The thing is fast enough
to see the pressure transients in the flow bench so I've employed active
and/or software filters between the device and the A/D, depending on 
what I'm doing. Seems to work. Keep threatening to close the loop with
servos on the pressure valves!
Motorola's got a Sensor data book with all the variations and some good
app stuff. Hope this is useful.

Jack


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Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 23:20:28 -0500
From: Walter <corsaro@brokersys.com>
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Orin Eman wrote:
> 
> If you search the archives, you'll find posts about putting cans or whatever
> between the sensor and the manifold to smooth out the 'vacuum signal'.
> A few feet ain't no big deal.  I'd be more concerned about the vacuum
> hose getting squished en route.
> 
> Now as to putting the brain in the trunk, that doesn't make much sense
> to me.  Makes all the wiring really long and more susceptable to
> noise.
> 
> > The F3 box has a 6 foot vacuum line from the box to intake . They just
> > cal.out the error in the tables . Under the dash may be better or if the
> > unit is very big, mount the map sensor under the dash and feed the
> > voltage back to the cpu. Your way will work also. Have fun .
> 
> > > >.........(the brain goes in the trunk and there is a vacuum hose from
> > >
> > > > it ALL the way to the engine compartment!).........
> > >
> > > <RAMBLING>
> > > there must be some loss with a hose this lenght ??
> > > i would prefer a intake mounted sensor with a wire the lenght of the
> > > car

> > > Alain

I have seen a modification made inside the ECU  that adds a
voltage (proportional to rate of change of throttle
position) to the output of the map sensor. This noticeably
improved the partial throttle response (0-30mph) of the car.
However I'm not sure if this was because of a delay involved
for the vaccuum pressures to get back as far as the trunk,
or just a poor fuel map in the eprom.
  Walter

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 01:07:38 1998
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Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 11:06:41 +1000
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Wayne Blair <wayneb@foxboro.com.au>
Subject: Holdens a little info
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A little info about some engines used in Holdens:

V8 used in production
CHEV: 307 327 350

Aussie V8's
(have always been faster and stronger than chevs and fords of same design
and capacity - production volume has been only impediment to aftermarket
and further development. [Repco Brabham was a 5L GP engine was an offshoot
of the Aussie v8 - maybe?]. That should but the possum in the kitchen ;^) )

253 small bore 308	
308 4 inch bore
304 destroked to 4999cc under 5L for racing homolagation and complete head
redesign to make use of EFI

The baby 55 57 chev looking cars used 6cyl from GM Canada
Grey motors/Side plates, used siamesesd intake port. (Like old blue flames
chevs ? )

132 ci
138 ci

Also a lot of Red, Blue, Black  aussie 6's like baby 
292(?) inline (red ?) Chev 6's
138, (toranas only)
149,179
161,186,
173,202
 a nissan 3L also (some one else will know more)

V6 
Buicks (some one else will know which and what)

Hey Justin - wanna add any info so the overseas guys get the full picture
on downunder GMs?



wayne

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Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
Date: Thu, 07 May 1998 23:54:38 -0700
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On Thu, 07 May 1998 21:26:27 -0700, goflo@pacbell.net wrote:

>Motorola pressure sensor part # is MPXL5010 0-1.45 psi range (approx
>41 in.H2O). Output span is 4.5 V temp compensated on-chip.

Oh pennies from heaven; thanks, Jack (and Steve for the spark)! I looked
on the Moto selector guide for low pressure sensors, but somehow
(fractional wits again, alas) I missed this lil beauty.

I guess one can't have everythang; I was hoping for somethin within
+-1%FS accuracy, but in a flow bench, I guess what's really important is
REPEATABILITY, so you can just be sure you are measuring air flow AT the
same diff. pressure drop; so yeah, this gizmo should do very nicely. My
next quest has to be for a calibrated MAF sensor for the flow bench that
will go from 0-600cfm (OK I'll settle for 300cfm if I HAVE to), with
1%FS accuracy. Then move over SuperFlow. Hee hee. I've got my blower
motor controller all figured out AND tested (lobbing it up and down in
my hand as we speak; it's amazingly simple), so I can put a PC in the
loop to read the deltaP and control the blowers, and then use a stepper
motor to open the valve gradually, whilst controlling the blower to keep
the deltaP within range, and then measure the air flow with the MAF
sensor. That way, once I set the thang up, I just push a button and
listen to them blowers go to town, as the controller steps through the
valve lift range, increment by increment. I know, I know, I'm daft as a
loon maybe, but ya gotta dream, dontcha? I want a flow bench that is
nuthin but a controlled air flow and diff. pressure apparatus, and the
entire rest of the smarts is in the PC, so it runs through the
measurement, computes/corrects flows, and plots the results of my latest
plaster model grind, whilst I kick back and have a coffee. Hee.

Hey, anybody up for a DIY FlowBench? If the calibrated MAF sensor could
be found to meet the specs I've mentioned, I'm SURE it could be done.
The major expense are the multiple blower motors, but everybody just
about uses all the same ones, and they're about $100 per 100cfm from the
Grainger catalog, as far as I can fathom. Forget the calibrated
orifices, the manual switching of them, and them huge manometers, and
especially the slant tube variety, along with the manual blower
controls, etc. etc. Let's take a giant leap into the present, and let
our sensors, instruments, and PC control the loop. Washing clothes musta
been a ROYAL tedious pain, just like flow bench runs, before the washing
machine came along. What we need is a simple, straightforward,
present-day-technology flow bench that's computer controlled and
electronically instrumented. Them old-style flow benches do Orville and
Wilbur proud, no doubt, but they're way too big, way too tedious to use,
and, last but not least WAY TO EXPENSIVE!!

There's already a commercial offering like this, available from:
	http://www.quadsci.com
but it's either 200cfm box for ~$2K, or a 600cfm box for $4K+. Argh. Too
low a volume, too high a markup, making it a rich man's sport. Crumbs.
Time to zap it with some DIY-rays.

>Keep threatening to close the loop with servos on the pressure valves!

Hey don't get mad, get even. How bout closing the loop by controlling
the blower motors electronically from the PC. That way you don't have to
mess with them valves, which are just an "orifice" way of controlling
flow, IF the blowers are assumed to be running at a fixed speed. BUT,
just about all the blower motors all them FlowBench guys use now are
AC/DC motors that can be easily thyristor controlled, without
overheating. Thas a better way than choking the poor things! A PC with a
parallel port, and the world of blower motors is at your command.

Like I said, I got the PC-controlled Thyristor motor controller stuff
already worked out (I been plotting about this one for a while, but I've
lacked the "critical mass of fractional wits summation", to pull off the
sensor side of thangs). If any of yous guys can find a MAF sensor that's
available CALIBRATED, and within +-1%FS accuracy over say 300cfm (it
takes a WHOLE lotta blowers to do 600cfm @ 25" H2O, so I figure a 300cfm
flowbench is gonna be fine for most people, bout $600 worth of blowers),
I can supply the rest of the circuitry. Write the interface in Java or
your favorite GUI environs, and POOF, instant automagic flow bench. I've
even got the motor controller stuff for the stepper necessary to turn
the lead screw (you know the valve opening from the # of steps
commanded, and the lead screw pitch) that opens the valve (assuming
you're running flows on a cylinder head). Hook the data logging into
Excel, and presto, instant plots!

OK, I'll go and take my medication now, but just think about it, will
ya? Life is short and uncertain; we gotta think hard about getting to
the dessert FIRST.

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 03:36:19 1998
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From: "Duane Reed" <duanered@pacbell.net>
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Subject: drag race corolla update caution long
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 00:32:09 -0700
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hi all,
    well today was a very productive day toward completion of this project
(read charge it). even better the owner of the speed shop I work for (part
time) said he would have a poster made of my corolla and hang it in the shop
if it breaks into the 9's (he can't even spell Toyota)
    1) ordered currie foraged axles for my shortened rearend (ford 9 inch
37in flange to flange)
    2) a set of cheap foraged connecting rods made for chevy small block
(had to buy eight so I have 2 extra)
    3) ordered 32 pound hour injectors
    4) received the strange 31 spline spool
    5) a week ago received two grand national e-proms (thanks Mike I still
owe you a case of brew)
    6) back half welded into car (hope its straight?)
    7) cleaned a lot
    8) tack welded my thru the floor subframe connectors
    9) installed buick century engine harness
   10) start a list of parts for repair vw(valves), buick(engine
electronics), ford(rear end and injectors), Nissan(turbo charger), chevy(con
rods), Honda(cooling fans) and some parts are still Toyota I think?

next week or so I should be busy assembling the rear end and bolting it into
the car to get it rolling to the chassis shop for a roll cage (more money,
thank you plastic). mean while my cylinder heads are being butchered and
polished still?

problem areas that I need help with still
    1) throttle position sensor ? how can I tell (what test can I perform)
if its compatible with the buck computer Toyota is a 4 connector type and
does not look like I can modify the buick piece and it goes the other
way?(using the Toyota throttle body its bigger)
    2) cam position?  still don't know where/how the sensor gets its trigger
from. is there a spinning magnet (Frederic did you take those pictures?)
    3) ecu power?  does it run off 12v,ideas on when it shoud power up, how
should I regulated, does it need to be and fuse size

any input accepted
Duane Reed


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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Whattza Holden?.
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 09:08:07 +0100
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This posting reminds me, I have no idea about 'metric' power
measurements, is there an quick equation that converts bhp to kw that
someone can furnish me with?

><snip>
>little p&p was good for around 250kw and the other is the monster off
>the group-A it is a twin t-bodie setup with a huge plemin chamber with
>stright runners that if you shine a light down the runner you can see
>the valve and up the top end are some s/steel trumpets which with little
>mods can be made adjustable........these little babys are good for 400kw
>now that is 500hp+  std t-bodies are 1000cfm and they ran bosch green
>injectors with a delco p4 808 ecm    :-)
<snip>

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 05:48:31 1998
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Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 05:44:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
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> Hey don't get mad, get even. How bout closing the loop by controlling
> the blower motors electronically from the PC. That way you don't have to
> mess with them valves, which are just an "orifice" way of controlling
> flow, IF the blowers are assumed to be running at a fixed speed. BUT,
> just about all the blower motors all them FlowBench guys use now are
> AC/DC motors that can be easily thyristor controlled, without
> overheating. Thas a better way than choking the poor things! A PC with a
> parallel port, and the world of blower motors is at your command.

i think a word must be said about efficiency of the fan used there,i
remember that such a thraid was did around january (or december) about
mass airflow that degenerated into a DIY flow bench,there where comment
about the fan being efficient at one RPM but not all,i think you should
look at that,i'll download the archive of these 2 month to do some
revision once i put some order in the 150 MB of stuff i have in my home
directory.

Alain



From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 06:19:18 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Holdens a little info
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 20:19:22 +1000
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Hi Guys,

Just being picky :-)

----------
From: 	Wayne Blair
Sent: 	Friday, May 08, 1998 11:06 AM
To: 	diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Holdens a little info

A little info about some engines used in Holdens:

V8 used in production
CHEV: 307 327 350

Aussie V8's
(have always been faster and stronger than chevs and fords of same =
design

The 308 was more powerful than the 307, but the 307 was never the =
perfomance engine. The chev was once the darling of the hot up set over =
the early 308s. Now with heaps of development the 308 is a very good =
alternative.

and capacity - production volume has been only impediment to aftermarket
and further development. [Repco Brabham was a 5L GP engine was an =
offshoot
of the Aussie v8 - maybe?]. That should but the possum in the kitchen =
;^) )

253 small bore 308=09
308 4 inch bore
304 destroked to 4999cc under 5L for racing homolagation and complete =
head
redesign to make use of EFI

The destroke happened in about 1985 but still made use of the Q-Jet carb =
and the B (For Brock) head castings for the perfomance models. VL v8 =
which was the last carbed job made 127kW on unleaded.=20

The baby 55 57 chev looking cars used 6cyl from GM Canada
Grey motors/Side plates, used siamesesd intake port. (Like old blue =
flames
chevs ? )

132 ci
138 ci

Yep, we got the grey. Classic motor for its time

Also a lot of Red, Blue, Black  aussie 6's like baby=20
292(?) inline (red ?) Chev 6's
138, (toranas only)
149,179
161,186,
173,202

Oh yeah, saw an ancient C60 chev truck and the motor looked like a =
stretched 292 in almost evry detail even down to dizzy pos and =
sideplates.

 a nissan 3L also (some one else will know more)

RB30 also in turbo variant -150kW, mid 15 1.4s, low 7s to 100kmh.

V6=20
Buicks (some one else will know which and what)

Early RWD 3800 in the VN-VR, ecotec or the latest revision for the VS =
onwards

Hey Justin - wanna add any info so the overseas guys get the full =
picture
on downunder GMs?

Ive got a tone of info. Just digging it up is the prob :-(


wayne


Peter
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From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 08:05:17 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 05:06:02 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Fri, 8 May 1998 05:44:46 -0400 (EDT), Alain Toussaint
<alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca> wrote:

>> BUT,
>> just about all the blower motors all them FlowBench guys use now are
>> AC/DC motors that can be easily thyristor controlled
>
>i think a word must be said about efficiency of the fan used there

But, but , but it's already being done. This is how all the Quadrant
Scientific flow benches work, already. Since you are controlling the
motors in closed-loop, with diff. pressure drop across the DUT as your
set point, as long as the blower motors don't LARGELY go to pot, you
don't really care if the efficiency isn't completely constant over the
range you're varying the rpm. The other thing to observe is that these
blower-motors aren't like single stage rotary or squirrel-cage fans;
they're actually more like lil 2-stage turbines inside.

Maybe it's like EGOR and ION, they may seem like hard problems if we
were approaching them for the first time, and starting from first
principles, but an existence proof is worth a ton of speculation, and
once there's proof that it's been done, and that cheaply and
practically, then we can dispense with worrying about the "order" of
certain effects and issues, and just go DO IT. Thas eXactly why I
mentioned the Quadrant Sci stuff.

Not tryna say that the issue of blower efficiency isn't REAL, just that
given commercial implementations built around varying the blowers under
thyristor control, it just can't be a show-stopper. Unless them guys use
a special sauce the recipe for which is currently a trade secret, ala
Kernel Sanders. [BTW, I don't ever recall hearing of anyone successfully
reverse-engineering his chicken, have you? Now THERE'S an example of an
effective and well kept trade secret. Whew! Humbling, idn't it?; to
think that what stuff we're doing here is easier than tryna duplicate
someone's cooking yer fond of. Heh].

Garfield
(confirmed birdatarian; if you know the Kernel's recipe', lemme know! I
gotta great zuccini-bread recipe' I'll trade ya. B)


From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 08:56:38 1998
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Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 08:55:28 +0000
From: Angel Gomez <angel@lucent.com>
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References: <35523A65.BF8A5E9F@brokersys.com>
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Walter,

What you want is a SendSym (sp) pressure transducer which is a PC
mountable solid state pressure transducer. It costs considerably
more than $15 (about $85 I think).

Angel

Walter wrote:
> 
> Thanks for all you replies.
> The sensor has to be mounted on a circuit board and uses 5v
> power. It goes in a fuel injection brain from a Jaguar XJS (
> the brain goes in the trunk and there is a vacuum hose from
> it ALL the way to the engine compartment!).
> I would prefer not to have to go to the junk yard every time
> I need one. I did search the 'net' but I don't think I did
> it thoroughly enough.Will try again later. I did find an
> intersesting site:
> 
> http://www.hitachi.co.jp/Div/apd/english/products/engine.html#04
> 
> The Motorola part sound promising.
> 
>  Walter

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 09:43:59 1998
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Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 09:47:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <c=US%a=_%p=Indigo_Active_Vi%l=CRIANLARICH-980508080807Z-372@crianlarich.indigo-avs.com> from "Robert Humphris" at May 8, 98 09:08:07 am
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> 
> This posting reminds me, I have no idea about 'metric' power
> measurements, is there an quick equation that converts bhp to kw that
> someone can furnish me with?

divide by .745
Clive 

> 
> ><snip>
> >little p&p was good for around 250kw and the other is the monster off
> >the group-A it is a twin t-bodie setup with a huge plemin chamber with
> >stright runners that if you shine a light down the runner you can see
> >the valve and up the top end are some s/steel trumpets which with little
> >mods can be made adjustable........these little babys are good for 400kw
> >now that is 500hp+  std t-bodies are 1000cfm and they ran bosch green
> >injectors with a delco p4 808 ecm    :-)
> <snip>


From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 09:58:08 1998
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Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 08:50:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Holdens a little info
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059
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-> Aussie V8's
-> (have always been faster and stronger than chevs and fords of same
-> design and capacity - production volume has been only impediment to
-> aftermarket and further development.

 Um.  With those tiny valves and tiny ports?  The Holden motor was
designed for reliablity, smooth operation and low-end torque; it clearly
was not aimed at the performance market.


-> [Repco Brabham was a 5L GP
-> engine was an offshoot of the Aussie v8 - maybe?]. That should but
-> the possum in the kitchen ;^) )

 The Repco motor was a variant of the American Buick 215 V8, before
Leyland bought it.
                                                                                                  

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Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 15:42:09 +0100
From: Tony Cooper <tony.cooper@virgin.net>
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Subject: Re: ION Current measurement - was "And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?"
References: <1317686495-34230248@uia.net> <35c996b4.147464437@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
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garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:

> On Wed, 6 May 1998 06:26:00 -0700, "Robert Harris"
> <bob@bobthecomputerguy.com> wrote:
>
> <Small Snip>
>
> >Sorry Mr. Cooper, if our silly ass understanding and plebeian purpose does
> >not allow us to truly dissect the entrails that your more obvious
> >sophistication and expectations does.
>
> Hey, lemme get real serious for a moment and suggest you two knock this
> off pronto. I dunno what personal things are detonating between the two
> of you, and it isn't my business, and you're entitled to not care for

> <Nuther snip>
> Gar

 STOP.... Ok, before we get into a REAL slagging match, please try to understand
the following.

I do NOT have any personal greivance/lovehate relationship with Bob. As a member
of this list I enjoy the different ideas that come and go as discussions. I am
quite happy to contribute my 2P's worth to all/any idea's. If a member of the
list asks a question, and I can help with an answer, I am more than willing to
assist. If an expert member of the list gives advice, I am more than willing to
listen and learn.

However, when a member of the list arrives on a thread and starts authoritivly
spouting supposed facts - especially facts that are blatantly incorrect, I am
sorry but I have to chirp up and put my 2p's worth in. Now this doesn't happen
much - in fact the only time I can really help the list is when it touches on a
subject that is really close to my heart.

Now - shall we put this bickering to bed and get on with the job in hand.

Here are my thoughts on ION Current measurement.

As far as I understand the SAAB system it works like this.

After the IONisation event has been started (An IONisation event being setting
fire to the mixture) the SAAB system floats a DC voltage across the plug gap.
There will be current flow which is directly proportional to the burn rate of the
mixture. A graph of current flow can be seen at this address :-

http://www.vehicular.isy.liu.se/Research/activity96/node5.html
(Gra

Using a high pass filter - (which has been tuned to the SAAB engine in question)
it filters out any high frequency noise in the Flame Front and Post flame parts
of the graph. If there is noise of a particular frequency present, then a
detonation event has occured. This is fed back to the ignition system, and the
ignition timing will be changed according to the algorithm used.

Now, for a particular engine the detonation frequency can be found easily (Just
make your engine detonate!!!) so the correct values for the filter can be
calculated - However, it gets somewhat tricky to build a system that will bolt on
to any engine and work because no 2 engines (different models that is) are the
same. The best way to get around this problem is to use some sort of intelligence
to move the filter frequency around, and also calibrate itself to the magnitude
that is allowable knock - (Bearing in mind that an engine runs best when it is
only just detonating). And guess what a DSP is built for doing this. The cost of
such a system should be around the 20 UK Pound mark.

Just to whet your appitite more - hows about this lot of goodies available.

Measurement of torque for each cylinder as the engine is running.
Measurement of mixture.
Ability to inform you on the state of your valves/rings/plugs etc etc

In can go on.......

Tony

--
Sent By Tony Cooper.
email: tony.cooper@virgin.net
Allow at least 10 working minutes for reply. ;)




From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 10:48:11 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: drag race corolla update caution long
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 10:48:43 -0400
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From: Duane Reed +ADw-duanered+AEA-pacbell.net+AD4-
Date: Friday, May 08, 1998 4:30 AM
Subject: drag race corolla update caution long


problem areas that I need help with still
+AD4-    1) throttle position sensor ? how can I tell (what test can I perform)
+AD4-if its compatible with the buck computer Toyota is a 4 connector type and
does not look like I can modify the buick piece and it goes the other
way?(using the Toyota throttle body its bigger)


Hook up an ohmmeter to find out if it is resistance, and then two
should be a fixed value, and one sweep between them.  The
resistance of a stock gm is 6K outside to outside, and the wiper
varies across that.
I'd wire the ecm to it and see if ya can get a sweep of less than .5
v at idle, to at least 4.8v but not over 4.9 at WOT.
  I'd bet there is both a clockwise, and C-clockwise GM TPS.

+AD4-    2) cam position?  still don't know where/how the sensor gets its
trigger
+AD4-from. is there a spinning magnet (Frederic did you take those pictures?)

It's a hall effect so it needs to see a steel shutter.

If the toyo was a coil within the distributor trigger, with about 1K
ohms resistance might think about the Syclone 749 ecm, no
crank or cam with that one, just dizzy..

+AD4-    3) ecu power?  does it run off 12v,ideas on when it shoud power
up, how should I regulated, does it need to be and fuse size

Two power connections, one to key, one always on for memory.
10A I beleive on key, for race car I'd use one for memory (ie 3).
+AD4-
+AD4-any input accepted
+AD4-Duane Reed
+AD4-
Bruce



From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 10:53:24 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 10:53:56 -0400
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Date: Friday, May 08, 1998 10:39 AM
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
>>
>> >the group-A it is a twin t-bodie setup with a huge plemin chamber with
>> >stright runners that if you shine a light down the runner you can see
>> >the valve and up the top end are some s/steel trumpets which with little
>> >mods can be made adjustable........these little babys are good for 400kw
>> >now that is 500hp+  std t-bodies are 1000cfm and they ran bosch green
>> >injectors with a delco p4 808 ecm    :-)
>> <snip>
>
Anybody have a bin off of something like that??.  Yep curious
Cone Shaped Hat Wearers gotta ask to see em..
Cheers
Bruce     e-mail response to nacelp@bright.net  Subject
               classified response to CSH World HQ..
               Hey it's Friday.


From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 11:07:09 1998
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From: Roger Heflin  <rah@horizon.hit.net>
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Subject: Calculating Fuel Econ. from pulse times and mph
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 11:04:42 -0500 (CDT)
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Hello,

I have been trying to calculate fuel econ. from injector pulse times.
I have a batch fire vehicle, I believe I know what the number of times
per rpm that the injectors fire.  I think the injecotrs fire once per
rpm (is this right).  I know the injector rating (lb/hr), there ford
svo injectors which I believe means they are rated at 39 psi, my car
is running at 45 psi, so the injectors are doing 45/39 * 30 lb /hr.
Also the computer says the injecotr is on x.x ms.  I am assuming that
is what the computer it telling the injectors to do.  Are the ramp
up and ramp down times similar enough that you can assume that that
time is close enough, or are there some transient things that cause
the actual open time to be less than or greater than that number?
What I am really tring to do is figure out what the absolute best
gas mileage my car could get, if it was only crusing, with no braking
or acceleration, and also determine how badly different things affect
the gas mileage.  
				Roger Heflin
			

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 11:07:23 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: O2 sensor duplicator
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 11:07:55 -0400
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Some one (and I lost my note, so sorry list), was working on 
a 3 op-amp signal generator for the O2 input for benching 
running ecms.  Please contact me!.
Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 12:46:30 1998
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From: GSMnow <GSMnow@aol.com>
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Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 12:45:36 EDT
To: duanered@pacbell.net, diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu,
        tech@turbomagazine.com, mdavid@sprintmail.com,
        toyota-mods@cyberauto.com, DULLCLAN@prodigy.net, ECMnut@aol.com,
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In a message dated 98-05-08 03:52:20 EDT, duanered@pacbell.net writes:

<<     1) throttle position sensor ? how can I tell (what test can I perform)
 if its compatible with the buck computer Toyota is a 4 connector type and
 does not look like I can modify the buick piece and it goes the other
 way?(using the Toyota throttle body its bigger) >>

This should be easy. the GM computer just needs a smooth 0 to 5 volt signal as
the throttle opens. The later Toyotas had this and an idle switch, that is the
extra pin. With an ohm meter, you should be able to find the switch pin, don't
use it, then find the pair with the least resistance at idle, one of these and
the last pin should be the least resistance at wide open throttle. The GM ECU
will have a ground and 5 volt output to feed the sensors. The 5 volts and
ground go across the leads that stay at a constant resistance (should be about
5,000 ohms) and the signal is the wiper. If the voltage is high and comes down
as you open the throttle, the reverse the 5 vplt and ground leads. At idle you
need to have about .6 volts. A GM service manual will have the exact spec. At
full throttle, it should not exceed about 4.5 volts or the ECU may think the
ground wire went open and set an error code.

<<     2) cam position?  still don't know where/how the sensor gets its
trigger
 from. is there a spinning magnet (Frederic did you take those pictures?) >>

What year and engine is the ECU from?? What Harness are you using?? The 86 87
Buick Grand National used a Short stub in place of the distributor that had
the cam position sensor in it. I think it also supplied the crank signal. The
3800 motor cars use just a crank sensor, but it is a dual ring setup with a 30
pulse disk, and 3 different wicth pulses to sync the ignition. Let me know the
computer you are using and I can get full diagrams and timing disk specs. You
can make the right signals with a hall effect sensor, magnet, and a sheet
steel disk. The edges of the slots must be accurate though, so you should cut
it on a milling machine with a rotary table. The timing disk can be done in a
hollowed out distributor so it is easy to work on and put in the motor later.
This also makes fine tuning the timing easy. I run anElectromotive TEC II and
I had to drill the mounting holes for the trigger disk in perfect timing. I
did it on an engine stand. It was tempting to do it in a distributor setup,
but the timing chain in the 22R is rather sloppy, and I wanted the beter
precision on the crank. 

<<     3) ecu power?  does it run off 12v,ideas on when it shoud power up, how
 should I regulated, does it need to be and fuse size  >>

The standard GM ECU power setup has a full time power lead for the internal
learn and error code memory, this comes off of the hazard light or dome light
circuits and draws well under an amp. Thene there is an ignition power supply
that is hot whenever the key is on. Make sure it is not interuppted when the
starter is engaged. I used the old coil feed in my Celica. This will be about
a 15 amp circuit for powering the injection and ignition. The fuel pump and
cooling fans will be operated by relays that get their own power feeds. I
think you will also need an oil pressure switch to keep the fuel pump running.


Is there a big reason that you don't want to use a programmable aftermarket
ECU?? I think it would save you alot of time and trouble. My friend has
programmed many DFI systems for Grand Nationals, and they perform much better
then the GM ECU, even with special chips in them. The GN air flow meter has
poor reliability and a bit of restriction that you can eliminate. Being able
to tweak the tunig at will has to be a big plus with your motor setup as well.

If you must use a GM ecu, try to get one from a Syclone/Typhoon or Trans Am
Turbo 3800. They were all speed density, but they will need to be re-mapped.

Gary M.

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 13:34:19 1998
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I posted this to the list previously, but I'm not sure it made it
through.

Motorola makes some nice pressure sensors, the MPX4250AP is designed for
turbo charged vehicles, 0.2-5 V output. MPX4100AP I believe is used for
the Naturally Aspirated vehicles. These are priced from $15-40

Go to 

http://mot2.indirect.com/senseon/pressure.html

for more info.
HTH
Scott Mo.
1989 200TQ
1988 5000TQ
1966 VW Beetle
http://www.teleport.com/~scottmo

-- 
Scott Mo.
1989 200TQ
1988 5000TQ
1966 VW Beetle
http://www.teleport.com/~scottmo

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 13:38:12 1998
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Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 10:37:08 -0700
From: "Scott Mo." <scottmo@teleport.com>
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Subject: And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?
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I sent this out to the list, but again, I don't think it made it
through.

Here are some other SAE technical Paper listings that I found doing a
search for SAAB and " ionization". They may be useful for the DIY
Trionic stuff. 

  Document Number: 890044
  Title: Saab direct ignition system and its cold start performance
  Publication Date:1989
  Author(s):Jiewertz, Sten; Klemisch, Bobby; Anderland, Torsten;
Gillbrand, Per S.
  Organization(s):Saab-Scania AB, Sweden; Saab-Scania AB, Sweden;
Saab-Scania AB, Sweden; Saab-Scania AB, Sweden
__________________________________________________________________
Check out this one from 1959.......Nuclear dude!

590186
  Title:Engine voltage requirements using spark plugs pre-ionized with
"radioactive" gold
  Publication Date:1959
  Author(s):Gumbleton, J. J.
  Organization(s):Engrg. Staff, General Motors Corp.
________________________________________________________________

ionization search:

  Document Number:980166
  Title:In-cylinder air/fuel ratio approximation using spark gap
ionization sensing
  Publication Date: Feb 1998
  Author(s):Balles, Eric N.; VanDyne, Edward A.; Wahl, Alexandre M.;
Ratton, Kenneth; Lai,Ming-Chia
  Organization(s): Adrenaline Research, Inc.; Adrenaline Research, Inc.;
Adrenaline Research, Inc.; Wayne State Univ.; Wayne State Univ.


  Document Number:980048
  Title:Real-time analysis of particulate matter by flame ionization
detection
  Publication Date: Feb 1998
  Author(s): Kawai, Terunao,; Iuchi, Yutaka; Nakamura, Shigeo; Ishida,
KozoOrganization(s): The University of Shiga Prefecture; Horiba Ltd.;
Horiba Ltd.; Horiba Ltd.Meeting: SAE International Congress and
Exposition

  Document Number:970857
  Title:In-cylinder pressure measurements using the spark plug as an
ionization sensor
  Publication Date:Feb 1997
  Author(s): Saitzkoff, Andr\ae; Reinmann, Raymond; Mauss, Fabian;
Glavmo, Magnus 

  Document Number:970856
  Title:Local air-fuel ratio measurements using the spark plug as an
ionization sensor
  Publication Date: Feb 1997
  Author(s):Reinmann, Raymond; Saitzkoff, Andr\ae; Mauss, Fabian;
Glavmo, Magnus

  Document Number:970507
  Title:Measurements of the effect of in-cylinder motion on flame
development andcycle-to-cycle variations using an ionization probe head
gasket
  Publication Date:Feb 1997
  Author(s):Russ, Stephen; Peet, Gregory; Stockhausen, William
  Organization(s): Ford Motor Co.; Ford Motor Co.; Ford Motor Co.

  Document Number:970854
  Title:Closed loop ignition control by ionization current
interpretation
  Publication Date:Feb 1997
  Author(s):  Eriksson, Lars; Nielsen, Lars; Glavenius, Mikael


  Document Number:961201
  Title:Validation tests for a fast response flame ionization detector
for in-cylinder sampling near the spark plug
  Publication Date:May 1996
  Author(s):Crawford, John G.; Wallace, James S.
  Organization(s):University of Toronto; University of Toronto

  Document Number:960329
  Title:Spark ionization controller for vehicle ignition systems
  Publication Date: Feb 1996
  Author(s):Marlow, C. Allen
  Organization(s):SGS-THOMSON Microelectronics

  Document Number: 960337
  Title: An ionization equilibrium analysis of the spark plug as an
ionization sensor
  Publication Date: Feb 1996
  Author(s):  Saitzkoff, Andr\ae; Reinmann, Raymond; Berglind, Thomas;
Glavmo, Magnus

  Document Number:960045
  Title: Ignition control by ionization current interpretation
  Publication Date:Feb 1996
  Author(s): Eriksson, Lars; Nielsen, Lars; Nytomt, Jan

  Document Number:952458
  Title:Flame propagation and laminar burning velocity measurements in a
cylindrical combustion chamber using particle image 
  Publication Date:Oct 1995
  Author(s):Zhou, M.; Garner, C. P.
  Organization(s): Loughborough University of Technology; Loughborough
University of Technology

  Document Number:950814
  Title:Cycle-by-cycle variations in combustion and mixture
concentration in the vicinity of spark plug gap
  Publication Date:Feb 1995
  Author(s):Lee, Kyung-Hwan; Foster, David E.
  Organization(s): Hyundai Motor Co.; University of Wisconsin
  Document Number:950109
  Title:A model for converting SI engine flame arrival signals into
flame contours
  Publication Date:Feb 1995
  Author(s):Hadjiconstantinou, Nicholas; Heywood, John B.
  Organization(s): MIT; MIT


  Document Number:952541
  Title:Signal reconstruction applied to a fast response flame
ionization detector
  Publication Date:Oct 1995
  Author(s):Summers, T.; Collings, N.



  Document Number:950160
  Title: Modelling the transit time of a fast response flame ionization
detector during in-cylinder sampling
  Publication Date: Feb 1995
  Author(s): Summers, Tim; Collings, Nick

  Document Number:950003
  Title:Engine misfire detection by ionization current monitoring
  Publication Date: Feb 1995
  Author(s):Lee, Anson; Pyko, Jan S.
  Organization(s):Chrysler Corp.; Chrysler Corp.



  Document Number:941987
  Title:Flame shape determination using an optical-fiber spark plug and
a head-gasket ionization probe
  Publication Date:Oct 1994
  Author(s):Salvat, Olivier P.; Cheng, Aldebert S.; Cheng, Wai K.;
Heywood, John B.
  Organization(s):P.S.A. Peugeot Citro\agn; Sloan Automotive Lab.;
Massachusetts Institute of Technology; Sloan Automotive Lab.;
Massachusetts Institute of Technology; Sloan Automotive Lab.;
Massachusetts Institute of Technology


  Document Number:941991
  Title: Combustion imaging in engine using electrical impedance
measurements
  Publication Date: Oct 1994
  Author(s):Beck, C. M.; He, R.; Waterfall, R. C.; Beck, M. S.
  Organization(s):Shell Research Ltd.; University of Manchester
Institute of Science and Technology; University of Manchester Institute
of Science and Technology; University of Manchester Institute of Science
and Technology

  Document Number:930464
  Title:Simultaneous application of optical spark plug probe and head
gasket ionization probe to a production engine
  Publication Date:Mar 1993
  Author(s):Meyer, Roy; Kubesh, John T.; Shahed, S. M.; Davis, J.


  Document Number:930462
  Title:Flame ion density measurement using spark plug voltage analysis
  Publication Date:Mar 1993
  Author(s): Miyata, Shigeru; Ito, Yasuo; Shiwasaki, Yuichi
  Organization(s): NGK Spark Plug Co.; NGK Spark Plug Co.; Honda R&D
Co., Ltd



  Document Number:922236
  Title:Electrohydrodynamic ignition system for S.I. engines
  Publication Date:1992
  Author(s):Hacohen, J.; Belmont, M. R.; Thurley, R. F. W.; Thomas, J.
C.; Morris, E. L.; Buckingham, D. J.
  Organization(s):University of Exeter; University of Exeter; University
of Exeter; University of Exeter; University of
                    Exeter; University of Exeter



  Document Number:932645
  Title:Determining the location of end-gas autoignition using
ionization probes installed in the head gasket
  Publication Date:Oct 1993
  Author(s): Witze, P. O.; Green, R. M.

  Document Number:930390
  Title:Flame location measurements in a production engine using
ionization probes embodied in a printed-circuit-board head gasket
  Publication Date:Mar 1993
  Author(s):Nicholson, D. E.; Witze, P. O.
  Organization(s):
 General Motors Corp.; Sandia National Labs.





  Document Number:910719
  Title: Investigation of in-cylinder fluid motion using a head gasket
instrumented with ionization probes
  Publication Date:1991
  Author(s):Witze, Peter O.; Bopp, Stefan C

  Document Number: 892099
  Title:Cycle-resolved multipoint ionization probe measurements in a
spark- ignition engine
  Publication Date:1989
  Author(s): Witze, Peter O.

  Document Number:885068
  Title:Closed loop control of spark-ignition engines (application to
the fuel system)
  Publication Date: 1988
  Author(s): Lefebvre, C.; Banet, G.; Ecomard, A.
  Meeting: 22nd FISITA Congress (1988), Dearborn, Michigan, USA

  Document Number: 860485
  Title:In-cylinder measurement of combustion characteristics using
ionization sensors
  Publication Date: 1986
  Author(s): Anderson, Robert L.
  Organization(s): Ford Motor Co., Electrical and Electronics Div.,
Dearborn, MI

  Document Number:860635
  Title:Knock detection by means of the spark plug
  Publication Date:1986
  Author(s):Collings, Nick; Dinsdale, Steve; Eade, Derek
  Organization(s):Univ. of Cambridge, U.K.; Univ. of Cambridge, U.K.;
Ford Motor Co., Basildon U.K.

  Document Number:750354
  Title:Significance of burn types, as measured by using the spark plugs
as ionization probes, with respect to the hydrocarbon emission levels in
S.I. engines
  Publication Date:1975
  Author(s):Rado, William G.; Johnson, Wayne J.
  Organization(s):Ford Motor Co.; Ford Motor Co.

  Document Number:730088
  Title: Turbulent flame structure as determined by pressure development
and ionization intensity
  Publication Date:1973
  Author(s): Arrigoni, V.; Calvi, F.; Cornetti, G. M.; Pozzi, U.
  Organization(s): SNAM Progetti (Italy); SNAM Progetti (Italy); SNAM
Progetti (Italy); SNAM Progetti (Italy)
  Meeting: International Automotive Engineering Congress and Exposition

  Document Number:730087
  Title:Relationship of flame front pattern to pressure and high-speed
knock on commercial engines
  Publication Date:1973
  Author(s): Chiampo, P.; de Cristofaro, F.; Gozzelino, R.
  Organization(s): Fiat S.p.A.; Fiat S.p.A.; Fiat S.p.A.
-- 
Scott Mo.
1989 Audi 200TQ
1988 Audi 5000TQ
1984 Audi 4000S
1966 VW Beetle
http://www.teleport.com/~scottmo

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 14:47:25 1998
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Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 13:48:31 -0500
From: Walter <corsaro@brokersys.com>
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> Some one (and I lost my note, so sorry list), was working on
> a 3 op-amp signal generator for the O2 input for benching
> running ecms.  Please contact me!.
> Cheers
> Bruce
 What would this circuit have to do, just generate a 0-1
volt signal or
also react to the change in injector pulse duration and
change the o2 reading accordingly ?
 Walter

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 15:32:35 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: drag race corolla update caution long
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 15:33:03 -0400
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Date: Friday, May 08, 1998 1:16 PM
Subject: Re: drag race corolla update caution long
>
>If you must use a GM ecu, try to get one from a Syclone/Typhoon or Trans Am
>Turbo 3800. They were all speed density, but they will need to be
re-mapped.
>
>Gary M.
>
The 89 Turbo Trans Am is a 1227148 MAF same as the 86-87
GN.  The syclone, typhoon, sunbird (some) use the 1227749, MAP.

At the GN-Ttype area they have tweaker, which allows you to modify
some of the prom, and at www.syty.org (I think)  they have promgrammer, for
the syty proms.


From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 15:34:18 1998
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To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: O2 sensor duplicator
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 15:34:52 -0400
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From: Walter <corsaro@brokersys.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: O2 sensor duplicator


>> Some one (and I lost my note, so sorry list), was working on
>> a 3 op-amp signal generator for the O2 input for benching
>> running ecms.  Please contact me!.
>> Cheers
>> Bruce
> What would this circuit have to do, just generate a 0-1
>volt signal or
>also react to the change in injector pulse duration and
>change the o2 reading accordingly ?
> Walter
>
Also react to injector pulse lenght.
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 18:03:39 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 15:26:05 +0000
Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
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Garfield

excuse for butting in, but can't you just power up for maximum flow 
and pressure then throttle either the intake or exhaust air for 
current control.  The motor only draws enough current to move the air 
at the required volume and pressure which is determined by the orfice 
that the air has to pass through and can be mechanically controlled.

Bob McKnight 
Phx AZ

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 18:11:52 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 15:34:24 +0000
Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
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Garfield

Put your differential pressure gauge(sensor - manometer) across the 
orfice and look it up in the table.  You know the size of the orfice, 
the delta pressure, and the medium - Air.  you can determine the flow 
in the look up tables that you glue next to the manometer.

Bob McKnight
Phx AZ

Ps Its been 40 years since I did this so I may have omitted something 
or else the physics may have changed.

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Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
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Garfield

excuse for butting in, but can't you just power up for maximum flow 
and pressure then throttle either the intake or exhaust air for 
current control.  The motor only draws enough current to move the air 
at the required volume and pressure which is determined by the orfice 
that the air has to pass through and can be mechanically controlled.

Bob McKnight 
Phx AZ

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 18:15:35 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 15:38:07 +0000
Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
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Garfield

Do you have the new catalog from Surplus center.  They have some 
Paxrton Blowers and I think motors for about $400.

Bob McKnight
Phx AZ

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 18:49:57 1998
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Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 17:40:35 -0500
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Why are you using a variable speed motor when two manual bleeders ( mom
has a version on her vacuum )will do the job and only need AC motor. Im
spending my  money on the knife edge orifices .Unless you want to get
fancy with it. Just a suggestion I may have missed something.

Steve

garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:

> On Fri, 8 May 1998 05:44:46 -0400 (EDT), Alain Toussaint
> <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca> wrote:
>
> >> BUT,
> >> just about all the blower motors all them FlowBench guys use now
> are
> >> AC/DC motors that can be easily thyristor controlled
> >
> >i think a word must be said about efficiency of the fan used there
>
> But, but , but it's already being done. This is how all the Quadrant
> Scientific flow benches work, already. Since you are controlling the
> motors in closed-loop, with diff. pressure drop across the DUT as your
>
> set point, as long as the blower motors don't LARGELY go to pot, you
> don't really care if the efficiency isn't completely constant over the
>
> range you're varying the rpm. The other thing to observe is that these
>
> blower-motors aren't like single stage rotary or squirrel-cage fans;
> they're actually more like lil 2-stage turbines inside.
>
> Maybe it's like EGOR and ION, they may seem like hard problems if we
> were approaching them for the first time, and starting from first
> principles, but an existence proof is worth a ton of speculation, and
> once there's proof that it's been done, and that cheaply and
> practically, then we can dispense with worrying about the "order" of
> certain effects and issues, and just go DO IT. Thas eXactly why I
> mentioned the Quadrant Sci stuff.
>
> Not tryna say that the issue of blower efficiency isn't REAL, just
> that
> given commercial implementations built around varying the blowers
> under
> thyristor control, it just can't be a show-stopper. Unless them guys
> use
> a special sauce the recipe for which is currently a trade secret, ala
> Kernel Sanders. [BTW, I don't ever recall hearing of anyone
> successfully
> reverse-engineering his chicken, have you? Now THERE'S an example of
> an
> effective and well kept trade secret. Whew! Humbling, idn't it?; to
> think that what stuff we're doing here is easier than tryna duplicate
> someone's cooking yer fond of. Heh].
>
> Garfield
> (confirmed birdatarian; if you know the Kernel's recipe', lemme know!
> I
> gotta great zuccini-bread recipe' I'll trade ya. B)




From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 19:22:18 1998
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Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 18:13:03 -0500
From: Steven Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
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This is the way i'm building mine . I will finish mine when knife edge
orifices come in.

Steve

bamcknig@postoffice.syspac.com wrote:

> Garfield
>
> Put your differential pressure gauge(sensor - manometer) across the
> orfice and look it up in the table.  You know the size of the orfice,
> the delta pressure, and the medium - Air.  you can determine the flow
> in the look up tables that you glue next to the manometer.
>
> Bob McKnight
> Phx AZ
>
> Ps Its been 40 years since I did this so I may have omitted something
> or else the physics may have changed.




From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 20:08:00 1998
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Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 17:08:45 -0700
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On Fri, 8 May 1998 15:38:07 +0000, bamcknig@postoffice.syspac.com wrote:

>Do you have the new catalog from Surplus center.  They have some 
>Paxrton Blowers and I think motors for about $400.

Is this place on the web?

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 20:12:32 1998
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Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
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On Fri, 08 May 1998 17:40:35 -0500, Steven Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
wrote:

>Why are you using a variable speed motor when two manual bleeders ( mom
>has a version on her vacuum )will do the job and only need AC motor. Im
>spending my  money on the knife edge orifices .Unless you want to get
>fancy with it. Just a suggestion I may have missed something.

Ahh, that's what's wonderful about experimentation, "to each his own".
If you've ever looked at the insides of a SF-600, with all the orifice
plates and manually adjustable bleeds, you'd see what I'm tryna avoid.
And the blowers that just about EVERYBODY uses in multiples, are already
AC/DC by their nature, so thas why that. Anyhoo, if ya gots a good
single whopper blower/vacuum that runs on AC, then gopher it!

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 22:37:07 1998
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Subject: Re: ION Current measurement - was "And for our Next Trick ... How 'bout a diyTrionic?"
In-reply-to: Your message of "Fri, 08 May 98 18:50:15 EDT."
             <199805082250.SAA05499@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu> 
Date: Fri, 08 May 98 19:37:02 -0700
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On Fri, 08 May 1998 15:42:09 +0100 Tony Cooper <tony.cooper@virgin.net> wrote
>...
>http://www.vehicular.isy.liu.se/Research/activity96/node5.html
>...

Here's another interesting site:

http://www.mecel.se/my_html/body_Ion_Sense.htm

It mentions that Mecel has a patent issued in 1984 on ionization current
measurement used in Saab's DI system.  If you follow the link at the
bottom, there is a list of directly relevant papers about ION.

Just my 0.02.

Andrew

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 22:48:42 1998
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Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 22:48:03 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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Subject: Re: Calculating Fuel Econ. from pulse times and mph
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Roger Heflin wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I have been trying to calculate fuel econ. from injector pulse times.
> I have a batch fire vehicle, I believe I know what the number of times
> per rpm that the injectors fire.  I think the injecotrs fire once per
> rpm (is this right).  I know the injector rating (lb/hr), there ford
> svo injectors which I believe means they are rated at 39 psi, my car
> is running at 45 psi, so the injectors are doing 45/39 * 30 lb /hr.
> Also the computer says the injecotr is on x.x ms.  I am assuming that
> is what the computer it telling the injectors to do.  Are the ramp
> up and ramp down times similar enough that you can assume that that
> time is close enough, or are there some transient things that cause
> the actual open time to be less than or greater than that number?
> What I am really tring to do is figure out what the absolute best
> gas mileage my car could get, if it was only crusing, with no braking
> or acceleration, and also determine how badly different things affect
> the gas mileage.
>                                 Roger Heflin
> 
What you want to do is determine the ACTUAL fuel usage, as well as the
ELECTRICAL time on of the injectors, then calculate the amount of flow
per second of injector on time. Then all you have to do is have your
computor, or whatever you are using, add this given fuel amount every
second of real time. By inputting distance into the equasion, you can
get MPG as well as GPH consumption. The CompuCruise system did this and
was very accurate after a good calibration run. For a simple fuel
totalizer, a calculator can be used. Have a circuit sum the injector on
time, resetting every totalled second, with the reset closing the= key
of the calculator. 0+(constant)=======. The constant is the # of partial
gallons consumed per injector second. Every time the + key is closed, it
gets added to the total. As for the circuit to time the "injector on"
time, I can't help you, but lots of EEs out there surely can come up
with something complicated, or mabee even simple:}
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 23:11:33 1998
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Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 22:14:07 -0500
From: Rogan <rxseven@bully.net>
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Subject: anyone use sds em-2 unit?
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Hi I am new.  Has anyone here used the em-2 unit from simple digital
systems?  What are your impressions on drivability for around town?
Thanks,
-David

From diy_efi-owner  Fri May  8 23:39:55 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Fri, 8 May 1998 21:00:11 +0000
Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
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Garfield
5 HP High Pressure Blower   349.95
New, features a Paxton belt driven centrifugal blower RM87(similar to 
an automotive supercharger)  5 Hp TEFC two speed motor.  Cast  
aluminum belt guard.  Use for applications that require high pressure 
and volume
Specs
5/1.25 Hp 
208 volts AC
16/4 amps
3 phase 60 cycle (this may get you interested in phase converters)
3500/1750 rpm
cont duty 
13,000 blower rpm(these have a ball planetary drive system)
400 cfm   29 inches of water discharge pressure
3 1/2 inlet    3" outlet
15 1/2 X 13 1/2 X 19shping wt 95 pounds

1-800-487-3407  24 hrs a day 7 days a week

1015 West "O" St.  PO Box 82209 Lincoln Nebraska 68501-2209
402-474-4055    FAX 402-474-5198
No e-mail

Motors, generators hydraulics, and industrial surplus.  Been around a 
long time.  I bought a parts cleaner from them back in 1950.

They have a little DC gear drive unit for childrens vehicles.  It 
looks like just what I need for my "way out" sand buggy.  electric 
steering with a joy stick.  No servo, variable rate.  steer your car 
like you steer your airplane.  $7  This is on my -  no more new 
projects, just finish what you started -  list.

Bob McKnight
Phx AZ

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 00:56:21 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: ION Project Papers & Info Sources
Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 21:57:05 -0700
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On Fri, 08 May 98 19:37:02 -0700, Andrew Ghali <andrewg@netcom.com>
wrote:

>Here's another interesting site:
>
>http://www.mecel.se/my_html/body_Ion_Sense.htm
>
>It mentions that Mecel has a patent issued in 1984 on ionization current
>measurement used in Saab's DI system.  If you follow the link at the
>bottom, there is a list of directly relevant papers about ION.
>
>Just my 0.02.

Excellent little blurb there. Thanks, mate. ION thanks you too, I'm
sure. B)

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 01:45:14 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: ION Project Papers & Info Sources
Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 22:45:57 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Fri, 08 May 1998 21:57:05 -0700, garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:

>On Fri, 08 May 98 19:37:02 -0700, Andrew Ghali <andrewg@netcom.com>
>wrote:
>>http://www.mecel.se/my_html/body_Ion_Sense.htm
>>
>>It mentions that Mecel has a patent issued in 1984 on ionization current
>>measurement used in Saab's DI system.
>
>Excellent little blurb there.

Just a couple follow-up comments and some NEWS. In looking at Mecel's
page a lil more, I see that the DI system (which DOES include ion
sensing for cylinder commutation) was intro'd in '87, which means this
stuff IS 10 years old. The other thing to note is that although the
patent was issued in '84 and deployed in '87, there is a real dearth of
articles/papers until the mid-ninties. In larger corporate circles, this
usually means there was a "ban" on publishing sensitive info until
several years and cash cows could be harvested. This is a likely
indication that Saab WAS INDEED tryna keep the stuff secret for quite a
few years.

Now the bit of news. You will note on the Mecel page that there's been a
DI system in the 9000s since 87/88? Well, a buddy of mine, who manages a
Saab parts dept. and whom I've been plying with questions since this all
started, today came up with some notes and a warrantee unit from a '90
Saab, and the lil board that does the Ion Detection stuff in those
earlier models is readily viewable (unlike the later models, that are
SERIOUSLY potted) if you remove the protective covers. On that lil board
that stands up like a "module" SIP, the ONLY active parts are an LM-139
Quad Comparator (SGS-Thomson variety with cerdip and -25 to +125degC
rating, so them guys know what they're doin) and a lone transistor. A
sprinkling of the usual diodes and passive discretes, of course, but the
point IS, it ain't no special sauce or any analog black magic, cuz there
ain't even no op amps, so if there IS any filtering it's of the lowliest
kind, since there is no active filtering possible on this board. I
traced the circuit out enough to know for sure this IS the module that
does the ion detection, cuz two of them comparators directly drive the
signals that say which cylinder is firing. This is EXTREMELY
encouraging, cuz if we can understand this technology, the circuitry to
implement it obviously is pretty dirt simple AND dirt cheap. As a result
of this latest intel, I am even more confident that after digesting the
available papers and summing up all our fractional wits, we're VERY
likely to get a workable DIY implementation. ION is beginning to smile
upon us, methinks. Maybe if we're nice to her, she's tell us her
secrets. B)

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 01:58:19 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
Date: Fri, 08 May 1998 22:59:05 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Fri, 8 May 1998 21:00:11 +0000, bamcknig@postoffice.syspac.com wrote:

>400 cfm   29 inches of water discharge pressure
>3 1/2 inlet    3" outlet

Hmmm, this is QUITE a find you have there, Bobert. Just about as perfect
a match of requirements for a flow bench, as you could hope for. I'll
definitely have a look. Besides, I've never done an AC motor speed
controller before. But I see from my trade mags that it's quite the
latest fad in electronic motor controllers. Might be a neat challenge to
see about computer controlling the speed, cfm, pressure, etc. of this
single monster blower. Sure be nicer packaging than a bunch of tandem
smaller blowers all forcing a common plenum, which is the NORM with flow
benches, even the most expensive ones, like SuperFlow makes.

Neat, thanks for this excellent tip.

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 03:03:22 1998
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Date: Sat, 09 May 1998 01:58:38 -0500
From: Daniel Ciobota <dciobota@hiwaay.net>
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I think I may have missed a few posts, so apologies if I repeat what's
already been said.  IMHO, using the A/F ratio and air meter values is
better than integrating injector duty cycles over time.  On my mustang,
the fuel pressure is controlled by engine vacuum (on my race car, by
boost as well), so, unless you've got your fuel pressure curve worked
out pretty well, your calculations may contain significant error.  Also,
I may be wrong but I believe the ford injectors are rated at 39psi, 100%
duty cycle (what is called the static point of the injector).


Daniel


Clare Snyder wrote:

> Roger Heflin wrote:
> >
> > Hello,
> >
> > I have been trying to calculate fuel econ. from injector pulse
> times.
> > I have a batch fire vehicle, I believe I know what the number of
> times
> > per rpm that the injectors fire.  I think the injecotrs fire once
> per
> > rpm (is this right).  I know the injector rating (lb/hr), there ford
>
> > svo injectors which I believe means they are rated at 39 psi, my car
>
> > is running at 45 psi, so the injectors are doing 45/39 * 30 lb /hr.
> > Also the computer says the injecotr is on x.x ms.  I am assuming
> that
> > is what the computer it telling the injectors to do.  Are the ramp
> > up and ramp down times similar enough that you can assume that that
> > time is close enough, or are there some transient things that cause
> > the actual open time to be less than or greater than that number?
> > What I am really tring to do is figure out what the absolute best
> > gas mileage my car could get, if it was only crusing, with no
> braking
> > or acceleration, and also determine how badly different things
> affect
> > the gas mileage.
> >                                 Roger Heflin
> >
> What you want to do is determine the ACTUAL fuel usage, as well as the
>
> ELECTRICAL time on of the injectors, then calculate the amount of flow
>
> per second of injector on time. Then all you have to do is have your
> computor, or whatever you are using, add this given fuel amount every
> second of real time. By inputting distance into the equasion, you can
> get MPG as well as GPH consumption. The CompuCruise system did this
> and
> was very accurate after a good calibration run. For a simple fuel
> totalizer, a calculator can be used. Have a circuit sum the injector
> on
> time, resetting every totalled second, with the reset closing the= key
>
> of the calculator. 0+(constant)=======. The constant is the # of
> partial
> gallons consumed per injector second. Every time the + key is closed,
> it
> gets added to the total. As for the circuit to time the "injector on"
> time, I can't help you, but lots of EEs out there surely can come up
> with something complicated, or mabee even simple:}
> --
>                                _/\_
>                        --|-----([])-----|--
>                          S    0/  \0    B
>          Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
>                   E-Mail service is back to normal
>                   To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
>                     Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
>                                 OR
> Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
> spammers!!!
> It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
> Turkeys!!!




From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 04:26:32 1998
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Subject: Re: Holdens a little info
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>From what I'm told, the 3L Nissan motor was actually designed in Australia,
by GM Holden engineers as a joint venture of Holden/Nissan. They were, of
course, built by Nissan, and they were discontinued be Holden mainly because
Nissan charged extortionate prices for them. Basically, they saw out their
contract of purchase to Nissan, and then went as quickly to the VN's V6 as
they could. At least, this is so I'm told. However, it would seem to be
true, as lmy Father was looking at puting one of the Nissan engines into his
HX Kingswood at one time, and at the Holden spare parts place, they told him
$9000 for a short motor from the VL Commodore, and then they said that he
would be better to go to a wrecker and get one. As it turned out, he would
heve had to make engine bay mods to get it in, so he didn't bother. As for
the V6 - Yes, it's a Buick, although I don't know what, exactly, but I'm
told that it is a re-hash of an **OLD** engine (hence, the pushrods). As for
the Ecotec V6... It's a completely redesigned engine, so I'm told (by a guy
at the showroom a couple of years ago). Apparently, both the bore and stroke
are different, there are more aerodynamic inlet, and exhaust manifolds,
etc... Basically, it is a completely new engine, within the old casting, or,
at least, so I'm told.

Danny Barrett.


>Also a lot of Red, Blue, Black  aussie 6's like baby 
>292(?) inline (red ?) Chev 6's
>138, (toranas only)
>149,179
>161,186,
>173,202
> a nissan 3L also (some one else will know more)
>
>V6 
>Buicks (some one else will know which and what)


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 05:04:01 1998
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Date: Sat, 09 May 1998 21:04:24 +1200
From: "Hamish Hubbard (and Ode)" <ode@ihug.co.nz>
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Greetings, I am not a subscriber to the mailing list but I would greatly
appreciate any information you
could cc to my email address.

I am searching for any technical info I can get about the Rover MEMS
engine management computer
as found in the Rover Mini and other cars. Anything at all would be much
appreciated - please send
anything that you know.

Areas of information I am looking for:
- Type and spec of CPU, RAM/ROM used.
- Is the MEMS system based on another one (I have heard someone mention
Motronic).
- What are some of the algorithms that it uses (even in the broadest
sense), e.g. does it interpolate between mappings, what does it do if
you unplug various sensors.
- Is there a list of the error codes.
- Voltages/waveforms it accepts from various sensors.
- How it behaves under various conditions.

I already have the service manual excerpt for the Mini but it goes into
very little detail about the computer.
Please send anything you know, even knowing the CPU type would be a
great help.

Thanks for your assistance,
Hamish



From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 05:10:40 1998
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Subject: Spark plugs/injectors
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Does anyone know if it is possible to get spark plugs with fuel injectors
built in? I have seen one of the list members write about keeping the intake
pressure as close to atmospherice as possible (and varying the power/speed
by the amount of fuel pumped in). There is one problem with this - It is
very hard to get a reliable combustion from mixtures leaner than 18:1. There
is a solution to this problem (from what my Thermodynamics textbook says).
This is by charging the cylinder with a non-uniform mixture. ie: around
14.5:1 around the spark plug, and virtually nothiing elsewhere (where
required). This, it has called "stratified charging." Apparently, engines
have been successfully developed and run in the laboratory, but not in
production cars (or at least, we've not seen them...). The book was first
published in 1957, with the third edition (the edition that I have)
published in 1980. I think it is fair to say that our EFI technology has
advanced quite a long way since 1980. So... Why can't we build direct
injection petrol engines that vary the mixture instead of the amount of air
going in? Since we now have sequential fuel injection, knock sensors (even
the Trionic one that we seem to hear so much about on this list - go for it
gentlemen...), etc... Why can't we make a direct injection petrol engine
that uses a combined spark plug/fuel injector, so that we can use stratified
charging to our advantage? I reallise that there are problems associated
with NOx gases produced in excess when lean mixtures are used, but isn't
that what the catalytic converter is for? Also, wouldn't it be worth just a
little bit more NOx in the air (yes, I know NO2 is a poison), for the sake
of using far less fuel, and having less benzine rings (which can cause
cancer) floating around in the air??? Or is there something I've missed?

Danny Barrett.


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 06:21:26 1998
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From: "Joachim M. Wagner" <1028-156@online.de>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: ION Project Papers & Info Sources
Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 11:26:30 +0300
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HI, Gar

sounds great what you have found out! What influence does this ion sensor
have on the e.f.i. or ignition system?? And what are the output signals
created from ECU given to the engine???

Joachim 

----------
> Von: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com
> An: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Betreff: Re: ION Project Papers & Info Sources
> Datum: Samstag, 9. Mai 1998 08:45
> 
> On Fri, 08 May 1998 21:57:05 -0700, garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:
> 
> >On Fri, 08 May 98 19:37:02 -0700, Andrew Ghali <andrewg@netcom.com>
> >wrote:
> >>http://www.mecel.se/my_html/body_Ion_Sense.htm
> >>
> >>It mentions that Mecel has a patent issued in 1984 on ionization
current
> >>measurement used in Saab's DI system.
> >
> >Excellent little blurb there.
> 
> Just a couple follow-up comments and some NEWS. In looking at Mecel's
> page a lil more, I see that the DI system (which DOES include ion
> sensing for cylinder commutation) was intro'd in '87, which means this
> stuff IS 10 years old. The other thing to note is that although the
> patent was issued in '84 and deployed in '87, there is a real dearth of
> articles/papers until the mid-ninties. In larger corporate circles, this
> usually means there was a "ban" on publishing sensitive info until
> several years and cash cows could be harvested. This is a likely
> indication that Saab WAS INDEED tryna keep the stuff secret for quite a
> few years.
> 
> Now the bit of news. You will note on the Mecel page that there's been a
> DI system in the 9000s since 87/88? Well, a buddy of mine, who manages a
> Saab parts dept. and whom I've been plying with questions since this all
> started, today came up with some notes and a warrantee unit from a '90
> Saab, and the lil board that does the Ion Detection stuff in those
> earlier models is readily viewable (unlike the later models, that are
> SERIOUSLY potted) if you remove the protective covers. On that lil board
> that stands up like a "module" SIP, the ONLY active parts are an LM-139
> Quad Comparator (SGS-Thomson variety with cerdip and -25 to +125degC
> rating, so them guys know what they're doin) and a lone transistor. A
> sprinkling of the usual diodes and passive discretes, of course, but the
> point IS, it ain't no special sauce or any analog black magic, cuz there
> ain't even no op amps, so if there IS any filtering it's of the lowliest
> kind, since there is no active filtering possible on this board. I
> traced the circuit out enough to know for sure this IS the module that
> does the ion detection, cuz two of them comparators directly drive the
> signals that say which cylinder is firing. This is EXTREMELY
> encouraging, cuz if we can understand this technology, the circuitry to
> implement it obviously is pretty dirt simple AND dirt cheap. As a result
> of this latest intel, I am even more confident that after digesting the
> available papers and summing up all our fractional wits, we're VERY
> likely to get a workable DIY implementation. ION is beginning to smile
> upon us, methinks. Maybe if we're nice to her, she's tell us her
> secrets. B)
> 
> Gar
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 07:35:23 1998
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From: "Joachim M. Wagner" <1028-156@online.de>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Spark plugs/injectors
Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 13:39:40 +0300
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Hi, Danny!

There are already some direct petrol engines on the market!!!!

Mitsubishi was the first one! The have the GDI-Engine ready, it's sold even
here in Germany at least for 6 - 7 months now!

And the other thing is: lean mixtures can be burnt very good, but not with
an "unformatted" or unspecified energy which is used for ignition. The
ignition energy must have the correct phase/magnitude-ratio to burn really
the fuel! And then also the NOx - problem can be reduced greatly. There is
a impulse oscillator ignition 
system on the market here in Germany which can do both of it perfectly.

If you need such a system, give me the type of car and I can probably
arrange for you. ( I think price was around 149.- $US) and can use it when
your ignition cable from the coil to the distributor is exchangeable.

Joachim

----------
> Von: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
> An: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Betreff: Spark plugs/injectors
> Datum: Samstag, 9. Mai 1998 12:10
> 
> Does anyone know if it is possible to get spark plugs with fuel injectors
> built in? I have seen one of the list members write about keeping the
intake
> pressure as close to atmospherice as possible (and varying the
power/speed
> by the amount of fuel pumped in). There is one problem with this - It is
> very hard to get a reliable combustion from mixtures leaner than 18:1.
There
> is a solution to this problem (from what my Thermodynamics textbook
says).
> This is by charging the cylinder with a non-uniform mixture. ie: around
> 14.5:1 around the spark plug, and virtually nothiing elsewhere (where
> required). This, it has called "stratified charging." Apparently, engines
> have been successfully developed and run in the laboratory, but not in
> production cars (or at least, we've not seen them...). The book was first
> published in 1957, with the third edition (the edition that I have)
> published in 1980. I think it is fair to say that our EFI technology has
> advanced quite a long way since 1980. So... Why can't we build direct
> injection petrol engines that vary the mixture instead of the amount of
air
> going in? Since we now have sequential fuel injection, knock sensors
(even
> the Trionic one that we seem to hear so much about on this list - go for
it
> gentlemen...), etc... Why can't we make a direct injection petrol engine
> that uses a combined spark plug/fuel injector, so that we can use
stratified
> charging to our advantage? I reallise that there are problems associated
> with NOx gases produced in excess when lean mixtures are used, but isn't
> that what the catalytic converter is for? Also, wouldn't it be worth just
a
> little bit more NOx in the air (yes, I know NO2 is a poison), for the
sake
> of using far less fuel, and having less benzine rings (which can cause
> cancer) floating around in the air??? Or is there something I've missed?
> 
> Danny Barrett.
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 08:06:10 1998
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From: "Dennis" <fagunddj@is2.dal.ca>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Spark plugs/injectors
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-----Original Message-----
From: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Saturday, May 09, 1998 6:45 AM
Subject: Spark plugs/injectors


Check the mitsubishi motors site.  They have a direct injection system that
does just this as does the OMC outboard marine injection.  They use a
distinct injector within the cylinder head supplied at very high pressure.
The mitsubishi site has a good description .

Hope I have helped

Dennis Fagundo

fagunddj@is2.dal.ca
dfagundo@ibl.bm

Technical University of Nova Scotia


>Does anyone know if it is possible to get spark plugs with fuel injectors
>built in.......  Stuff Cut........There is one problem with this - It is
>very hard to get a reliable combustion from mixtures leaner than 18:1.
There
>is a solution to this problem (from what my Thermodynamics textbook says).
>This is by charging the cylinder with a non-uniform mixture. ie: around
>14.5:1 around the spark plug, and virtually nothiing elsewhere (where
>required). This, it has called "stratified charging." Apparently, engines


Stuff cut

>
>Danny Barrett.
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 10:12:18 1998
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1) Has anyone found a shareware or reasonably priced software package to
reprogram the 94 & up GM EEProm ECM's.

	2) Does anyone have a document describing the interface protocol to read or
write the EEprom. Even a simple Peek & Poke command would be a good start.

	Thanks in advance for any leads

		Ken


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 10:44:40 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 07:34:05 +0000
Subject: Re: Spark plugs/injectors
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Danny

I  think that Toyota has this engine available in smal l quantities 
in Japan.,    he SAE magazine showed pictures of the combustion 
sequence about a year ago.  very impressive, also very sophisticated 
control of injector timing.  The injector operated several times 
prior to combustion to build the proper shape of the charge.

Please check this info out, its been a year probably and sometimes I 
screw information up.

Bob McKnight
Phx AZ

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 11:22:09 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: ION Project Papers & Info Sources
Date: Sat, 09 May 1998 08:22:55 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Sat, 9 May 1998 11:26:30 +0300, "Joachim M. Wagner"
<1028-156@online.de> wrote:

>What influence does this ion sensor
>have on the e.f.i. or ignition system?? And what are the output signals
>created from ECU given to the engine???

Eh? You musta just joined the thread. This has been discussed
previously, so I'll just give ya a summary, and you can crawl up the
thread for more of the details.

The ionization sensing gives two basic things to the ECU. One is signals
to tell it if a jug fired or not (which they use instead of a cam
sensor, and also for misfire detection). The second input to the ECU is
an analog signal (is read by an A/D in the ECU) representing the actual
analog ionization current, which they scan with the A/D to detect things
like knock. This information is used to modify spark advance, boost
limits, and even enrichment (enrichment is tried if backing off on adv &
boost alone doesn't do the trick, according to the Saab manual).

There are no special inputs TO this IGN signal from the ECU, other than
the normal ones to tell the plugs to fire. So it's basically a simple
CDI system, with special sensor technology using the plugs, to return
correct plug firing, and detonation/pre-ignition info to the ECU. That's
it in a nutshell.

Anything very clever done to the analog Ionization current is being done
INSIDE the ECU by the cpu, once the A/D is read.

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 12:56:37 1998
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From: "Jake Lindeke" <jlindeke@bsfh.org>
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A few weeks back someone posted about a web page where a guy made a din 
sized PC for his miata to play mp3's in his car. could someone send me that 
address? thanks
--Jake Lindeke
--SOGI South-East Chapter Coordinator
--http://sesogi.bsfh.org

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 14:05:57 1998
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The vacuum control actually holds the pressure across the injector constant. 
In this case the injector duty cycle would be pretty good indication of the 
amount of fuel used. In the case where the presure with respect to atm. 
did not vary with manifold vacuum, the presure across the injector would 
vary and the duty cycle would be an inacurate measurment of fuel flow. 
(unless you did the fuel flow MAP duty cycle table thing)  I think this
is correct but I have an open mind.

Mike D




> From diy_efi-owner@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu Sat May  9 03:19 CDT 1998
> From: Daniel Ciobota <dciobota@hiwaay.net>
> X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.01 [en] (Win95; U)
> 
> I think I may have missed a few posts, so apologies if I repeat what's
> already been said.  IMHO, using the A/F ratio and air meter values is
> better than integrating injector duty cycles over time.  On my mustang,
> the fuel pressure is controlled by engine vacuum (on my race car, by
> boost as well), so, unless you've got your fuel pressure curve worked
> out pretty well, your calculations may contain significant error.  Also,
> I may be wrong but I believe the ford injectors are rated at 39psi, 100%
> duty cycle (what is called the static point of the injector).
> 
> 
> Daniel
> 
> 
> Clare Snyder wrote:
> 
> > Roger Heflin wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello,
> > >
> > > I have been trying to calculate fuel econ. from injector pulse
> > times.
> > > I have a batch fire vehicle, I believe I know what the number of
> > times
> > > per rpm that the injectors fire.  I think the injecotrs fire once
> > per
> > > rpm (is this right).  I know the injector rating (lb/hr), there ford
> >
> > > svo injectors which I believe means they are rated at 39 psi, my car
> >
> > > is running at 45 psi, so the injectors are doing 45/39 * 30 lb /hr.
> > > Also the computer says the injecotr is on x.x ms.  I am assuming
> > that
> > > is what the computer it telling the injectors to do.  Are the ramp
> > > up and ramp down times similar enough that you can assume that that
> > > time is close enough, or are there some transient things that cause
> > > the actual open time to be less than or greater than that number?
> > > What I am really tring to do is figure out what the absolute best
> > > gas mileage my car could get, if it was only crusing, with no
> > braking
> > > or acceleration, and also determine how badly different things
> > affect
> > > the gas mileage.
> > >                                 Roger Heflin
> > >
> > What you want to do is determine the ACTUAL fuel usage, as well as the
> >
> > ELECTRICAL time on of the injectors, then calculate the amount of flow
> >
> > per second of injector on time. Then all you have to do is have your
> > computor, or whatever you are using, add this given fuel amount every
> > second of real time. By inputting distance into the equasion, you can
> > get MPG as well as GPH consumption. The CompuCruise system did this
> > and
> > was very accurate after a good calibration run. For a simple fuel
> > totalizer, a calculator can be used. Have a circuit sum the injector
> > on
> > time, resetting every totalled second, with the reset closing the= key
> >
> > of the calculator. 0+(constant)=======. The constant is the # of
> > partial
> > gallons consumed per injector second. Every time the + key is closed,
> > it
> > gets added to the total. As for the circuit to time the "injector on"
> > time, I can't help you, but lots of EEs out there surely can come up
> > with something complicated, or mabee even simple:}
> > --
> >                                _/\_
> >                        --|-----([])-----|--
> >                          S    0/  \0    B
> >          Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
> >                   E-Mail service is back to normal
> >                   To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
> >                     Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
> >                                 OR
> > Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
> > spammers!!!
> > It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
> > Turkeys!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 15:51:32 1998
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Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 15:50:40 EDT
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Subject: Re: small PC used as a Car mp3 player
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In a message dated 98-05-09 13:03:31 EDT, jlindeke@bsfh.org writes:

<< A few weeks back someone posted about a web page where a guy made a din 
 sized PC for his miata to play mp3's in his car. could someone send me that 
 address? thanks >>

I think this should be the one you're refering to:
http://utter.chaos.org.uk/~altman/mp3mobile/
BTW, any idea on how difficult it would be to replicate something like this?
I'd like to have an auto-mp3 player too!  :)

Van

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 16:15:29 1998
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Date: Sat, 09 May 1998 16:21:56 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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Danny Barrett wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know if it is possible to get spark plugs with fuel injectors
> built in? I have seen one of the list members write about keeping the intake
> pressure as close to atmospherice as possible (and varying the power/speed
> by the amount of fuel pumped in). There is one problem with this - It is
> very hard to get a reliable combustion from mixtures leaner than 18:1. There
> is a solution to this problem (from what my Thermodynamics textbook says).
> This is by charging the cylinder with a non-uniform mixture. ie: around
> 14.5:1 around the spark plug, and virtually nothiing elsewhere (where
> required). This, it has called "stratified charging." Apparently, engines
> have been successfully developed and run in the laboratory, but not in
> production cars (or at least, we've not seen them...).


Tell Honda it can't be done. They sold a ton of stratified charge CVCC
cars in the early 80's
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 16:47:05 1998
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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 06:52:41 +1000
From: Justin Albury <jalbury@tpgi.com.au>
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Wayne Blair wrote:
> 
> A little info about some engines used in Holdens:
> 
> V8 used in production
> CHEV: 307 327 350
> 
> Aussie V8's
> (have always been faster and stronger than chevs and fords of same design
> and capacity - production volume has been only impediment to aftermarket
> and further development. [Repco Brabham was a 5L GP engine was an offshoot
> of the Aussie v8 - maybe?]. That should but the possum in the kitchen ;^) )
> 
> 253 small bore 308
> 308 4 inch bore
> 304 destroked to 4999cc under 5L for racing homolagation and complete head
> redesign to make use of EFI
> 
> The baby 55 57 chev looking cars used 6cyl from GM Canada
> Grey motors/Side plates, used siamesesd intake port. (Like old blue flames
> chevs ? )
> 
> 132 ci
> 138 ci
> 
> Also a lot of Red, Blue, Black  aussie 6's like baby
> 292(?) inline (red ?) Chev 6's
> 138, (toranas only)
> 149,179
> 161,186,
> 173,202
>  a nissan 3L also (some one else will know more)
> 
> V6
> Buicks (some one else will know which and what)
> 
> Hey Justin - wanna add any info so the overseas guys get the full picture
> on downunder GMs?
> 
> wayne

hi guys and girls

well waynes about got....

apart from the short run of chev stuff the rest of thr ozie stuff is
home grown

inline 6 cyl as wayne said above

v8 stuff also above but also a 5.7lit version of the 304(4.9/5.0) in the
awwwwwsom efi engine

v6 is buick 3800 stuff with only minor changes for the ozie market, but
are all rear wheel drive.
first we used the 3800 series 1 engine with staged ports and a rope type
rearmain oil seal(VN commodore) then we canged the intake and heads but
still used the same stuff as befour (VP Commodore) then wh put and alloy
plate around the rearmain and used a full seal and added a cam sensor
and used grouped injection (VR Commodore) then we used the buick 3800
series II block and heads with even ports (in-ex-in-ex-in-ex) 4 bolt
mains sexy intake and a endplate which housed the rearmain and took away
the need for welsh plugs at the rear of the engine. (vs commodore) then
we added the supercharger to the series II and now we get 185kw from the
good old buick 3800 which was designed in the us back in 1962.

any questions??

justin

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 16:49:09 1998
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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 06:54:21 +1000
From: Justin Albury <jalbury@tpgi.com.au>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------AD335E1CD4
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try this for quick conversions

justin

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--------------AD335E1CD4--


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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 07:00:28 +1000
From: Justin Albury <jalbury@tpgi.com.au>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Holdens a little info
References: <01BD7ABE.97F78D40@PJARAMAZ       >
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Peter Jaramaz wrote:
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Just being picky :-)
> 
> ----------
> From:   Wayne Blair
> Sent:   Friday, May 08, 1998 11:06 AM
> To:     diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:        Holdens a little info
> 
> A little info about some engines used in Holdens:
> 
> V8 used in production
> CHEV: 307 327 350
> 
> Aussie V8's
> (have always been faster and stronger than chevs and fords of same design
> 
> The 308 was more powerful than the 307, but the 307 was never the perfomance engine. The chev was once the darling of the hot up set over the early 308s. Now with heaps of development the 308 is a very good alternative.
> 
> and capacity - production volume has been only impediment to aftermarket
> and further development. [Repco Brabham was a 5L GP engine was an offshoot
> of the Aussie v8 - maybe?]. That should but the possum in the kitchen ;^) )
> 
> 253 small bore 308
> 308 4 inch bore
> 304 destroked to 4999cc under 5L for racing homolagation and complete head
> redesign to make use of EFI
> 
> The destroke happened in about 1985 but still made use of the Q-Jet carb and the B (For Brock) head castings for the perfomance models. VL v8 which was the last carbed job made 127kW on unleaded.
> 
> The baby 55 57 chev looking cars used 6cyl from GM Canada
> Grey motors/Side plates, used siamesesd intake port. (Like old blue flames
> chevs ? )
> 
> 132 ci
> 138 ci
> 
> Yep, we got the grey. Classic motor for its time
> 
> Also a lot of Red, Blue, Black  aussie 6's like baby
> 292(?) inline (red ?) Chev 6's
> 138, (toranas only)
> 149,179
> 161,186,
> 173,202
> 
> Oh yeah, saw an ancient C60 chev truck and the motor looked like a stretched 292 in almost evry detail even down to dizzy pos and sideplates.
> 
>  a nissan 3L also (some one else will know more)
> 
> RB30 also in turbo variant -150kW, mid 15 1.4s, low 7s to 100kmh.
> 
> V6
> Buicks (some one else will know which and what)
> 
> Early RWD 3800 in the VN-VR, ecotec or the latest revision for the VS onwards
> 
> Hey Justin - wanna add any info so the overseas guys get the full picture
> on downunder GMs?
> 
> Ive got a tone of info. Just digging it up is the prob :-(
> 
> wayne
> 
> Peter
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
>                 Part 1.2       Type: application/ms-tnef
>                            Encoding: base64
true about the vl but also the vl was the first of the efi 304 with the
totaly awsome group-a version 4.9 efi

the rb30 is a nissan inline 6 that weighed 14 kg more and 7 kw less than
the series 1 3800 v6........hey but then we also added a turbo... :-)

justin

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 16:58:24 1998
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Message-ID: <3554C4BD.66DF@tpgi.com.au>
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 07:03:57 +1000
From: Justin Albury <jalbury@tpgi.com.au>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
References: <01bd7a91$20423b60$4c198fd1@nacelp>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

--------------16871B6C6F63
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> Date: Friday, May 08, 1998 10:39 AM
> Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
> >>
> >> >the group-A it is a twin t-bodie setup with a huge plemin chamber with
> >> >stright runners that if you shine a light down the runner you can see
> >> >the valve and up the top end are some s/steel trumpets which with little
> >> >mods can be made adjustable........these little babys are good for 400kw
> >> >now that is 500hp+  std t-bodies are 1000cfm and they ran bosch green
> >> >injectors with a delco p4 808 ecm    :-)
> >> <snip>
> >
> Anybody have a bin off of something like that??.  Yep curious
> Cone Shaped Hat Wearers gotta ask to see em..
> Cheers
> Bruce     e-mail response to nacelp@bright.net  Subject
>                classified response to CSH World HQ..
>                Hey it's Friday.


try this...ambx 
this was the the production version.....when played with ....welll  :-)

justin

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--------------16871B6C6F63--


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 17:04:39 1998
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From: "Joachim M. Wagner" <1028-156@online.de>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: ION Project Papers & Info Sources
Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 23:09:18 +0300
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Thanks so much, Gar
for your kind explanation, I joined your conversation first time yesterday
so I surely missed the earlier discussion. Can I find it anywhere?
But one thing's not quite clear to me about the ION-Sensor: What is the
advantage if they don't use it to modulate the following ignition signal in
a closed loop with the rest of the information out of the combustion
chamber after burning. That would be the real thing do do! This would bring
the quality of combustion up!

By the way how important is the quality aspect of combustion (exhaust
temperature, heat transfer, noise, lifetime of engine, acceleration, max
torque, a.s.o.) for you and for the people here in the group?  

Joachim 
----------
> Von: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com
> An: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Betreff: Re: ION Project Papers & Info Sources
> Datum: Samstag, 9. Mai 1998 18:22
> 
> On Sat, 9 May 1998 11:26:30 +0300, "Joachim M. Wagner"
> <1028-156@online.de> wrote:
> 
> >What influence does this ion sensor
> >have on the e.f.i. or ignition system?? And what are the output signals
> >created from ECU given to the engine???
> 
> Eh? You musta just joined the thread. This has been discussed
> previously, so I'll just give ya a summary, and you can crawl up the
> thread for more of the details.
> 
> The ionization sensing gives two basic things to the ECU. One is signals
> to tell it if a jug fired or not (which they use instead of a cam
> sensor, and also for misfire detection). The second input to the ECU is
> an analog signal (is read by an A/D in the ECU) representing the actual
> analog ionization current, which they scan with the A/D to detect things
> like knock. This information is used to modify spark advance, boost
> limits, and even enrichment (enrichment is tried if backing off on adv &
> boost alone doesn't do the trick, according to the Saab manual).
> 
> There are no special inputs TO this IGN signal from the ECU, other than
> the normal ones to tell the plugs to fire. So it's basically a simple
> CDI system, with special sensor technology using the plugs, to return
> correct plug firing, and detonation/pre-ignition info to the ECU. That's
> it in a nutshell.
> 
> Anything very clever done to the analog Ionization current is being done
> INSIDE the ECU by the cpu, once the A/D is read.
> 
> Gar
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 17:20:05 1998
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From: "Joachim M. Wagner" <1028-156@online.de>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Spark plugs/injectors
Date: Sat, 9 May 1998 23:24:38 +0300
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That's it!

Jo
----------
> Von: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
> An: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Betreff: Re: Spark plugs/injectors
> Datum: Samstag, 9. Mai 1998 23:21
> 
> Danny Barrett wrote:
> > 
> > Does anyone know if it is possible to get spark plugs with fuel
injectors
> > built in? I have seen one of the list members write about keeping the
intake
> > pressure as close to atmospherice as possible (and varying the
power/speed
> > by the amount of fuel pumped in). There is one problem with this - It
is
> > very hard to get a reliable combustion from mixtures leaner than 18:1.
There
> > is a solution to this problem (from what my Thermodynamics textbook
says).
> > This is by charging the cylinder with a non-uniform mixture. ie: around
> > 14.5:1 around the spark plug, and virtually nothiing elsewhere (where
> > required). This, it has called "stratified charging." Apparently,
engines
> > have been successfully developed and run in the laboratory, but not in
> > production cars (or at least, we've not seen them...).
> 
> 
> Tell Honda it can't be done. They sold a ton of stratified charge CVCC
> cars in the early 80's
>                                _/\_
>                        --|-----([])-----|--
>                          S    0/  \0    B
>          Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
>                   E-Mail service is back to normal
>                   To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
>                     Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
>                                 OR
> Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
> spammers!!!
> It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
> Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 18:43:03 1998
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Date: Sat, 09 May 1998 15:42:23 -0800
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Subject: Re: Questions about EGOR
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<garfield@pilgrimhouse.com> wrote:
> Since most all the devices, excepting the idea I mention below,
> can be had in surface mount, the entire EGOR board is likely gonna fit
> in something WAY shorter than a 40-pin 0.6" DIP. Yep, you heard me
> right, it's that small.

Cool!  (Thoughts of putting an EGOR inside of a GM MEMCAL - along with
the EPROM, limp-home calibration, and knock sensor filter... probably
not a good idea though.)

> My own preference would be that you'd use 12v and this
> regulator, cuz the regulator spec'd in the design is a special one for
> automotive, that has all kinds of protection, [...]
> The precision references run off this 5V, so I'd want a
> good regulator looking over them.

I'd probably be using EGOR inside of an OEM ECM which already has a
power supply with an alphabet soup of features.  Plus it turns itself on
and off as needed.  This supply is also used as the upper end reference
for the AtoD.

> It's so low, I
> didn't bother adding it up, but I'd say way below 50mA @ 5V. But again,
> I'd prefer you going off B+ like another other sensor, rather than a
> slave off the ECM, [...]

50mA?  No problem.  BTW, most of GM's sensors run off of 5V.  (CTS, MAT,
and some switches from the same supply as the CPU.  MAP and TPS from a
second 5V.)

> If the Ion pump connector gets
> shorted to gnd, you're gonna spill 13mA at most into the crapper, and
> WAY less in the case of the VsCell bias, so not to worry about EGOR
> hemorrhaging.

OK, with a 13mA short circuit current, it could safely run off the main
5V supply.

> >Is EGOR's 0 to 5V signal output range a "natural" range?
>
> "Natural"? that's a new one on me.

What I meant is this:  Is there some physical phenomena requiring the 5V
range?  For example, an old fashioned O2 sensor has a ~1V range 'cause
that's the way it works.  Whereas 74xx TTL runs on 5V because some
standards commitee decided so.  In other words, are you applying a 5V
range to the sensor?  Or is it from an intermediate node which swings
rail to rail?

> I'd say any system that
> expected ANY output to be able to drive 1K into 5V is really asking for
> disgusting jokes about their mama. That's pretty low impedance.

No kidding!  That's why I asked.

> Course, you gonna pay for that with increased supply
> load, but it's still only another 10% of budget, so no sweat.

The increased supply load comes from the other devices supply, not EGORs
supply.  (Unless EGOR uses an output transistor with a beta of 1.)

> >Can EGOR be designed with an output range of about 1 volt?  This would
> >allow EGOR to directly drive an ECM's existing O2 input(s).  (It's a
> >trivial matter to edit a PROM to handle a different O2 input voltage
> >profile.)
>
> NO, this ISN'T gonna be possible, and for an even better reason than
> just "levels" issues. If you read the previous posts, the output of
> these Ion Pump interfaces is in NO way similar to a stock O2 sensor.

So I guess I'd need to put a 5:1 resistor divider on EGORs output, run
that to the standard O2 input, and change the 4 or 5 PROM bytes needed
to deal with the different voltage profile.

> I can't take
> the space AGAIN to outline this; suggest you climb back up the thread a
> day or two's worth [...]

Well, you haven't described EGOR's internals or the exact sensor
operation yet.  (That's OK - I'd rather you post confirmed results than
educated speculation.)

> Bzzzzzzzt. I can't cite you chapterNverse of the year/model of the VX
> Civic, but I've BOUGHT sensors for our year/model range IN CALIF, and
> they ARE 5-wire and suitable. What exactly are you after here? I've
> ALREADY posted the Honda part number. You wanna argue with THAT, or
> what? I don't get yer drift, mate.

I was just repeating what the repair manual said.  I'm sure you can buy
parts for all sorts of non-California cars in California.  (The reverse
isn't always true - just try to find a California spec cat in the middle
of Wyoming.  I got to drive to Montana with an open exhaust.)  The point
is that I'm not likely to find one of these Civic's in a junk yard. 
They are at least 5 years too new - unless they got run over by an 18
wheeler.  And even then, it would have to be an out of state Victim er.
Civic.


Have you made any progress with figuring out the calibration resistor? 
Anyone changing an O2 sensor in the pits during a race would like not
having to recalibrate EGOR.  Same with anyone with an ailing BelchFire
V11 driving through Podunksville.


You've implied that the NTK box does nothing with the O2 heater.  The
Honda schematics imply that they do control the heater - perhaps to
regulate the temperature.  Any thoughts on this?


If there is ever a group purchase of sensors, it should include a group
purchase of the mating wiring harness connector.

               unsigned long BinToBCD(unsigned long i) {unsigned long t;
Ludis Langens     return i ? (t = BinToBCD(i >> 1), (t << 1) + (i & 1) + 
ludis@cruzers.com            (t + 858993459 >> 2 & 572662306) * 3) : 0;}


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On Sat, 9 May 1998 23:09:18 +0300, "Joachim M. Wagner"
<1028-156@online.de> wrote:

>Can I find it anywhere?

Do you know how to pull down archives from a majordomo-managed list? If
not, you might wanna visit FAQ's for the list or majordomo.

>What is the
>advantage if they don't use it to modulate the following ignition signal in
>a closed loop

They do; what would you call changing advance, boost, and mixture, if
not "closed loop". You really need to access the archives. We can't be
going over these basics repeatedly. I'm outta here.

Gar


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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Questions about EGOR
Date: Sat, 09 May 1998 17:38:10 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Sat, 09 May 1998 15:42:23 -0800, Ludis Langens <ludis@cruzers.com>
wrote:

>I'd probably be using EGOR inside of an OEM ECM which already has a
>power supply with an alphabet soup of features.  Plus it turns itself on
>and off as needed.  This supply is also used as the upper end reference
>for the AtoD.

OK, fine on the "features", that sounds good, but do you know what it's
headroom on it's regulated 5.0V current budget IS? I thot not. Nobody
does, so thas why I was pushing for running it off BAT+ if possible.
See, I'm a flyboy, so I don't take such liberties with the assumptions.
If "win, place, or show", is important to you, you won't either. Don't
add to your ECM's power budget unless you know WHAT it's power budget
IS. That was my point.

>50mA?  No problem.  BTW, most of GM's sensors run off of 5V.  (CTS, MAT,
>and some switches from the same supply as the CPU.  MAP and TPS from a
>second 5V.)

Of course I'm aware of this. I'm also aware that ALL such sensors are
included in the power budget of a box stock ECM, so you can't just slap
something more onto that without the info I was tryna provide you with,
as far as load is concerned. Problem is, with any box stock ECM, just
exactly HOW close to their power budget limit are they? If you know
this, you're smarter than me; thas why I was sayin, if in doubt, use
BAT+ and the regulator, cuz it cost's you next to nuthin.

>> >Is EGOR's 0 to 5V signal output range a "natural" range?
>>
>> "Natural"? that's a new one on me.
>
>What I meant is this:  Is there some physical phenomena requiring the 5V
>range?  For example, an old fashioned O2 sensor has a ~1V range 'cause
>that's the way it works.  Whereas 74xx TTL runs on 5V because some
>standards commitee decided so.  In other words, are you applying a 5V
>range to the sensor?  Or is it from an intermediate node which swings
>rail to rail?

Ahh, this is bloody splitting hairs; WHAT sensor that you know of has a
defined "natural" voltage range?, other than electrochemical stuff like
the stock O2 sensors. EGOR has been designed to yield a 0-5V sensor
range, cuz that's what most ECU's use as their supply range. And since
it's NOW a "measurement" sensor, rather than a mere switch, we're tryna
get the maximum dynamic range we can outta the supply rails. Since the
fundamental thing about EGOR (or for that matter any Ion pump O2 sensor)
is pumping Oxy ions to balance the normal O2 sensor, and as we HAVE
discussed previously, this is based on CURRENT levels, not voltage, one
has to pick a reference range for translating this current to voltage
levels suitable for use. Very rare to see ANY device or sensor related
in terms of it's output CURRENT!

>> Course, you gonna pay for that with increased supply
>> load, but it's still only another 10% of budget, so no sweat.
>
>The increased supply load comes from the other devices supply, not EGORs
>supply.  (Unless EGOR uses an output transistor with a beta of 1.)

WHAT?, not so dude, if EGOR is supposed to supply a certain voltage
output representing AFR, into a 1K load, it's EGOR's supply and output
device that has to supply the current to make that happen. Back to
basics.

>So I guess I'd need to put a 5:1 resistor divider on EGORs output, run
>that to the standard O2 input, and change the 4 or 5 PROM bytes needed
>to deal with the different voltage profile.

Again, WHAT?; you really gotta listen up; the output curve for EGOR
doesn't represent ANYTHING similar to an normal O2 sensor, and if you
wanted to map it into a similar kinda output, you'd certainly be
spending more than 4 or 5 bytes on storage, unless you were building a
bang-bang controller, in which case WHY on earth would you use EGOR? You
need to do your homework, dude.

>Well, you haven't described EGOR's internals or the exact sensor
>operation yet.  (That's OK - I'd rather you post confirmed results than
>educated speculation.)

Well, in the absense of complete schematics, a few ear lobes might be
appropriately applied, instead of your spurious questions. What exactly
DO you allege you need beyond what I've told you, and what we've
discussed in this thread so far?

>I was just repeating what the repair manual said.  I'm sure you can buy
>parts for all sorts of non-California cars in California.  (The reverse
>isn't always true - just try to find a California spec cat in the middle
>of Wyoming.  I got to drive to Montana with an open exhaust.)  The point
>is that I'm not likely to find one of these Civic's in a junk yard. 
>They are at least 5 years too new - unless they got run over by an 18
>wheeler.  And even then, it would have to be an out of state Victim er.
>Civic.

WHAT repair manual? Did you even BOTHER to check on availability of the
HONDA OEM part no. I have posted now THREE bloody times to the group? I
don't give a rat's ass if you CAN find one in a junk yard. That's YOUR
problem, not EGOR's. Sheesh, I give you the stinking HONDA part no. and
you're still whining? GEEZ, give me a brake. You wanna use this stuff,
or just CARP about it not all being automagic to yer doorstep, and outta
a junk yard to boot?

>Have you made any progress with figuring out the calibration resistor? 
>Anyone changing an O2 sensor in the pits during a race would like not
>having to recalibrate EGOR.

Well, Lulu, I'd suggest you just PASS on EGOR then, cuz you ARE gonna
have to recal to free-air to use a new sensor. Like I said, "Thanks for
playing. BZZZTTT!" Ain't that the PITTS!? B)

>You've implied that the NTK box does nothing with the O2 heater.  The
>Honda schematics imply that they do control the heater - perhaps to
>regulate the temperature.

I've not IMPLIED it, I've stated it outright. The SAE docs and the NTK
box documents suggest that there is little to be gained by even
regulating the heater voltage, let alone control it closed loop. Care to
share YOUR weath of information with the rest of the group? WHAT
schematics? Control of the heater? First I've heard of that. Why is
that, Lulu, if you have info to the contrary? POST IT! Don't just wave
it in the air. We'd all love to see it, I'm sure.

>If there is ever a group purchase of sensors, it should include a group
>purchase of the mating wiring harness connector.

Geezus, what a plebe.  A group purchase will try to achieve the lowest
price point on the SENSOR, period, regardless of what connector just
"happens" to be the love of HONDA's life at this particular model year.
IF you're gonna predicate your use of this sensor on the availability of
a "mating wiring harness connector", again I'd say, why dontcha just
PASS. When was the last time you found a "mating" OEM harness available
for anywhere less than 10X the cost of the device. I think you, guy,
have your head firmly impacted up a nice, warm dark place, and I am NOT
gonna waste any more of my time on ya. Just my personal opinion, mindya.

Sayonara, Lulu baby.

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Sat May  9 23:18:32 1998
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Terry,

Saw yr message for Beta version and it looks great!!!!!    Have you a .bin for
a '87 350 T/A TPI.  I'm in the process of installing one on a 400SBC and want
to modify the ECM.

Thanks in advance,

AJL

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 00:22:39 1998
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Joachim M. Wagner wrote:

> Hi, Danny!
>
> There are already some direct petrol engines on the market!!!!
>
> Mitsubishi was the first one! The have the GDI-Engine ready, it's sold even
> here in Germany at least for 6 - 7 months now!
>

What about the Mercedes 300SL in ca. 1955?  It had GDI, as well as desmodromic
valve actuation (no valve springs-- the valves are pushed open and pulled
closed).
Mr. Goatwrench


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 01:10:03 1998
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From: Jim Davies <jimd@vcc.bc.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Spark plugs/injectors
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On Sat, 9 May 1998, Heinrich Gerhardt wrote:

> >
> > There are already some direct petrol engines on the market!!!!
> >
> > Mitsubishi was the first one! The have the GDI-Engine ready, it's sold even
> > here in Germany at least for 6 - 7 months now!
> >
> 
> What about the Mercedes 300SL in ca. 1955?  It had GDI, as well as desmodromic
> valve actuation (no valve springs-- the valves are pushed open and pulled
> closed).
> Mr. Goatwrench
> 
That system was a derivative of the FI system used on the DB 600 series
V12s as found in ME 109s etc etc



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 04:09:57 1998
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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 03:10:53 -0500
From: Walter Petermann <corsaro@brokersys.com>
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> From: Walter <corsaro@brokersys.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Subject: Re: O2 sensor duplicator
> 
> >> Some one (and I lost my note, so sorry list), was working on
> >> a 3 op-amp signal generator for the O2 input for benching
> >> running ecms.  Please contact me!.
> >> Cheers
> >> Bruce
> > What would this circuit have to do, just generate a 0-1
> >volt signal or
> >also react to the change in injector pulse duration and
> >change the o2 reading accordingly ?
> > Walter
> >
> Also react to injector pulse lenght.
> Bruce

Bruce,
 I have been trying to come up with a circuit. I will be
needing one too sooner or later. I also test/repair ecms for
Jaguars, and I'm starting to get into the newer ones (90's)
which will need a little more sophisticated method of
testing the o2 circuit. Up to now, I just measure the
%change from open loop when the o2 is either 0 or 1 volt.
The newer ecms I'm sure will go into 'limp home' mode if I
try to use this same method.
Anyway, what is the range of injector on times for your
application?
What is the highest rate of firing (pulses per second to one
injector) that you use in your tests?

  Walter

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 06:33:24 1998
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From: "Joachim M. Wagner" <1028-156@online.de>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: ION Project P. & NEW WAY OF COMBUSTION!
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 12:37:34 +0300
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Hi, Gar,

thanks for your answer, but you didn't get the point of my quwstion and I'm
sure it's not in the old topics because what I asked here is a complete new
point: TO FORM AND MODULATE THE WAVEFORMS AND -FUNCTIONS OF THE IGNITION
SIGNAL ITSELF WITH THE INFORMATIONS OUT OF THE COMBUSTION PROCESS has
nothing to do with already existing (of course I know that) loop of
influencing the regulating parameters of combustion. But this is not
influencing the combustion itself which is of course chaotic. But using my
suggested way of modulating the ignition signal itself transforms the
chaotic signal and this is the real input to start the whole combustion
into a ordered, structurised ignition energy and then caos in combustion
can be greatly reduced! It will be much easier to generate fuel and spark
advance eeproms for this kind of quality combustions because all the
parametrs will be much more linear and therefore easier to find than
before.   
Joachim 


----------
> Von: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com
> An: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Betreff: Re: ION Project Papers & Info Sources
> Datum: Sonntag, 10. Mai 1998 01:49
> 
> On Sat, 9 May 1998 23:09:18 +0300, "Joachim M. Wagner"
> <1028-156@online.de> wrote:
> 
> >Can I find it anywhere?
> 
> Do you know how to pull down archives from a majordomo-managed list? If
> not, you might wanna visit FAQ's for the list or majordomo.
> 
> >What is the
> >advantage if they don't use it to modulate the following ignition signal
in
> >a closed loop
> 
> They do; what would you call changing advance, boost, and mixture, if
> not "closed loop". You really need to access the archives. We can't be
> going over these basics repeatedly. I'm outta here.
> 
> Gar
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 06:35:07 1998
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Subject: Re: Spark plugs/injectors
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This stuff sounds very interesting. Tell me more... Will it work with the GM
high energy ignition systems of the early eighties? My car is a 2.8L 6cyl GM
Holden Commodore. I believe it looks rather like one of the Opels. How
easy/hard it it to fit one of these systems?

Danny Barrett.


>And the other thing is: lean mixtures can be burnt very good, but not with
>an "unformatted" or unspecified energy which is used for ignition. The
>ignition energy must have the correct phase/magnitude-ratio to burn really
>the fuel! And then also the NOx - problem can be reduced greatly. There is
>a impulse oscillator ignition 
>system on the market here in Germany which can do both of it perfectly.
>
>If you need such a system, give me the type of car and I can probably
>arrange for you. ( I think price was around 149.- $US) and can use it when
>your ignition cable from the coil to the distributor is exchangeable.
>
>Joachim


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Date: Sat, 09 May 1998 19:26:37 -0700
From: Scot Sealander <Sealand@clarityconnect.com>
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Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
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Justin Albury wrote:

> > Anybody have a bin off of something like that??.

> try this...ambx
> this was the the production version.....when played with ....welll  :-)

Justin must have a defective PROM reader.  This file is also corrupt.
Either that or every single location has an odd value..... ;-)

Scot Sealander    Sealand@clarityconnect.com


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 08:10:07 1998
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From: "Joachim M. Wagner" <1028-156@online.de>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Spark plugs/injectors & specified ignition energy
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 14:14:46 +0300
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Hi, Danny

It will surely work well as long as your engine has a separate,
exchangeable cable between coil and distributor! With your car this should
be the case. If you can specify the type of connectors used for this cable
on each side, I'll look if I can get a suitable one for you. All the energy
transformation system is included around this cable. And it works
independently from primary creation system for energy such as coil or
voltage. It influences and works completely on the high-voltage secondary
side of the ignition energy, because that's what makes the engine really
run!

Joachim 

----------
> Von: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
> An: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Betreff: Re: Spark plugs/injectors
> Datum: Sonntag, 10. Mai 1998 13:35
> 
> This stuff sounds very interesting. Tell me more... Will it work with the
GM
> high energy ignition systems of the early eighties? My car is a 2.8L 6cyl
GM
> Holden Commodore. I believe it looks rather like one of the Opels. How
> easy/hard it it to fit one of these systems?
> 
> Danny Barrett.
> 
> 
> >And the other thing is: lean mixtures can be burnt very good, but not
with
> >an "unformatted" or unspecified energy which is used for ignition. The
> >ignition energy must have the correct phase/magnitude-ratio to burn
really
> >the fuel! And then also the NOx - problem can be reduced greatly. There
is
> >a impulse oscillator ignition 
> >system on the market here in Germany which can do both of it perfectly.
> >
> >If you need such a system, give me the type of car and I can probably
> >arrange for you. ( I think price was around 149.- $US) and can use it
when
> >your ignition cable from the coil to the distributor is exchangeable.
> >
> >Joachim
> 

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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: O2 sensor duplicator
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 08:55:02 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Walter Petermann <corsaro@brokersys.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, May 10, 1998 4:52 AM
Subject: Re: O2 sensor duplicator


>Bruce Plecan wrote:
>>
>> From: Walter <corsaro@brokersys.com>
>> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
>> Subject: Re: O2 sensor duplicator
>>
>> >also react to the change in injector pulse duration and
>> >change the o2 reading accordingly ?
>> > Walter
>> Also react to injector pulse lenght.
>> Bruce
>
>Bruce,
> I have been trying to come up with a circuit. I will be
>needing one too sooner or later. I also test/repair ecms for
>Jaguars, and I'm starting to get into the newer ones (90's)
>which will need a little more sophisticated method of
>testing the o2 circuit. Up to now, I just measure the
>%change from open loop when the o2 is either 0 or 1 volt.
>The newer ecms I'm sure will go into 'limp home' mode if I
>try to use this same method.
>Anyway, what is the range of injector on times for your
>application?
>What is the highest rate of firing (pulses per second to one
>injector) that you use in your tests?
>
>  Walter
>
Well I've been told on the TBI it should be 1-5 msec., and on
the TPI 2-10 msec.  One the TBI rate of fire would be 240/
sec, and TPI 120/sec.
   But, I'm still gathering parts to actually be able to fire one
up.
   If ya haveta have a more exact answer I quess I could
mock something up.  I was just "planning" on doing one real
nice set-up.
  If anyone has more accurate numbers, PLEASE say something.
Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 08:58:04 1998
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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 22:57:42 +1000
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
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At 01:41  6/05/98 -0400, you wrote:
>For the unlucky blokes that can't get em (usa), have a look at 
>http://www.thrasher-ep.com
>they are a neat car.  Are these the ones the 808 ecm is used
>in the SS, and SHV (?).  Is that engine the same inside as 
>our (USA) small block chevy?.  
>
>Public Service Announcement:
>
>Cone Shaped Hat HQ is also one step closer to being able
>to dim the neighborhood lights by bench racing ecms.
>No worries here!!
>Bruce


SHV should read HSV...  Holden Special Vehicles....

and try

http://www.hsv.com.au

I think you'll be impressed if you liked what you already saw   :)




From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 09:01:36 1998
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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 23:01:22 +1000
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: Re: Water injection and racing & more
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>defintely not a good idea
>it the driver brakes for say 30 sec for some reason ( sudden obstuction,i
> traffici pile up etc.) and you geta 30s squirt after there would probably
>be water running all over the tires, affecting traction
>
>better might be to use an IR sensor to measure berrake temp. placed just
>before the squirt zone, spray until the sensor say the temp is OK again
>no timer involved
>just a simple driver to fire the pump up
> 
>> would any one be able to design a circuit like this, or have one that might
>> do the job?
>
>Clive 
>?


this sounds great.....

someone come up with a circuit for this and I'll be forever in their debt
:)


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 09:05:33 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: RE: Water injection and racing & more
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 EDU>
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At 02:51  6/05/98 -0400, you wrote:
>[...details of watering brake drums deleted...]
>
>Well, I don't know what kind of racing you are doing, but most racing
>organizations would black flag you, and rightfully so, for spraying
>water where it can fall on the track.  If this is dirt then just forget
>I mentioned anything, but spraying fluids on pavement creates a VERY
>dangerous situation for the competitors behind you.
>
>What this has to do with DIY-EFI I don't know, but I road race
>motorcycles and ideas like this scare the crap out of me.

thanks..

the idea was picked up from truck racing... where you will find almost all
run a similar system.

and the spray is that fine, that it evaporates as soon as it hits the
drum...   and the car has passed scruteneering with this system in place
for numerous events


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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
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At 05:36  7/05/98 +1000, you wrote:
>>From what I'm told, the Holden V8 is a completely Australian designed engine
>(but I could have been told a heap of crap...). As for the V6, I believe it
>is a Buick. However, with the "Ecotec" V6, it is basically loosely designed
>on the previous Buick re-hash, and not, in reality the same engine, although
>the cubic displacement is still nominally 3.8L.

actually the Holden 308 V8 has some very close similarities to the small
block chev...  the 350 Chev crankshaft is used in the 308 to stroke it to
around 383 ci.

do you think a Chev crank would bolt into an aussie designed engine ?  hmmm


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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
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At 05:56  6/05/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Where the h*ll can I get that K*ck *ss TPI intake in the Holdens?  I am
serious!
>
>Paul Tholey


I know of several....  do you mean the v6 or v8 ????

I have a friend who has a VP commodore rally car....  with heaps of spares

let me know what you want


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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: RE: Water injection and racing & more
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 1@crianlarich.indigo-avs.com>
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At 09:23  7/05/98 +0100, you wrote:
>This was a common device used by some of the thundersaloon teams to cool
>off disks , the ammount of water used is minimal, and it won't go on the
>track as the heat on the disks vaporises any residue fluid...
>
>As for DIY EFI, I don't think that it has much to do with it, though
>neither has Aero engines, catalytic cracking, ceramic coatings et al, I
>for one am happy that we have an eclectic mix of 'performance' and
>technical subjects on this list.
>
>Rob Humphris


Rob,

How are you involved with these 'thundersaloons' ?

do you know what sort of device they are using to trigger the water to
squirt onto the discs ?

or was it manual, under the driver's control ?

and thanks, from the amount of stuff I read on this list, how much is
really about DIY EFI ?

but about that subject...

I know I am going backwards, but I am trying to design/build an analog
injection system...  and I need help with one part of the circuit...

I need a voltage controlled Pulse width modulator....

I need something that will accept an input voltage between 0 and 5 V...
and a clock pulse

and depending on the input voltage, output a pulse who's width varies
linearly...

have i explained this right

so say there's a clock pulse, and the input voltage is 0V, I want a puls of
2ms to be the output....

if there;s a clock pulse, and the input voltage is 5V, I want a pulse of
6ms to be output....

5V				       *
				    *
4V				 *
			      *
3V			   *
			*
2V		     *
		  *
1V	       *
	    *
0V	 *

	2ms	3ms	4ms	5ms	6ms

bit like that.....

can anyone help me?  I do not want to use any microprocessors in the
design....

thanks


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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: Re: Holdens a little info
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> a nissan 3L also (some one else will know more)

The nissan is an RB-30

in both normally aspirated, and turbo configurations.....


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 09:35:12 1998
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In a message dated 98-05-10 09:19:36 EDT, you write:

<< 
 actually the Holden 308 V8 has some very close similarities to the small
 block chev...  the 350 Chev crankshaft is used in the 308 to stroke it to
 around 383 ci. >>
The 308 sound like an interest engine.  I believe we Yanks has
the same crankshaft in our 302, but I don't know if the main bearing
journal diameters were the same.  Sounds like the block is the same
as our 400.  

Is there an Australian 6 cylinder derivitave of the 308????
What I'm after here, is the 4.125 inch bore GM V6
Our "V6 little brother" to the 350 has a 4 inch bore, resulting
in slightly less displacement.....
I would love to find one of those blocks, if it exists...
TIA
Mike V

Mike V.

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 09:37:04 1998
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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 23:36:51 +1000
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
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At 10:53  8/05/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Date: Friday, May 08, 1998 10:39 AM
>Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
>>>
>>> >the group-A it is a twin t-bodie setup with a huge plemin chamber with
>>> >stright runners that if you shine a light down the runner you can see
>>> >the valve and up the top end are some s/steel trumpets which with little
>>> >mods can be made adjustable........these little babys are good for 400kw
>>> >now that is 500hp+  std t-bodies are 1000cfm and they ran bosch green
>>> >injectors with a delco p4 808 ecm    :-)
>>> <snip>
>>
>Anybody have a bin off of something like that??.

The VP commodore rally car I mentioned is going to have the memcal
'tweaked' after the engine build that is under way...

I will ask the efi guy if I can have a copy yeh?

do i need to tell him what format etc?

I could probably get a stock one to, because the 'efi guy' i mention does a
bit of their development


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 09:52:03 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Misc 101 stuff
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 09:52:35 -0400
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Is there anyone working on the (747) 101 project that needs something?.
Other than some items for bench running ecms.

I'd also like to know of those working on the 747, who are going
to be continuing on with the 165/730/808 series,  and I would like
to know who that isn't working on the 747 will be joining the fray
for the next group, of ecms.  If your new to this please tell me what your
strong points are, software, burning/trying proms, junkyard
hunting what ever, if ya want to help we probably can use ya.

Please e-mail me     nacelp@bright.net
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 09:52:34 1998
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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 23:52:24 +1000
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: Re: small PC used as a Car mp3 player
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At 03:50  9/05/98 EDT, you wrote:
>In a message dated 98-05-09 13:03:31 EDT, jlindeke@bsfh.org writes:
>
><< A few weeks back someone posted about a web page where a guy made a din 
> sized PC for his miata to play mp3's in his car. could someone send me that 
> address? thanks >>
>
>I think this should be the one you're refering to:
>http://utter.chaos.org.uk/~altman/mp3mobile/
>BTW, any idea on how difficult it would be to replicate something like this?
>I'd like to have an auto-mp3 player too!  :)
>
>Van


do you mean difficult, or expensive ???

not very, and VERY   :)


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 10:37:12 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 10:37:43 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, May 10, 1998 9:41 AM
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.


>At 05:56  6/05/98 -0400, you wrote:
>>Where the h*ll can I get that K*ck *ss TPI intake in the Holdens?  I am
>serious!
>>
>>Paul Tholey
>
>
>I know of several....  do you mean the v6 or v8 ????
>
>I have a friend who has a VP commodore rally car....  with heaps of spares
>
>let me know what you want
>
>
I'd also be interested in a V-8 version.  I got a set  bolt pattern
measurements, to make sure if it will work,  ya have anyidea of 
price (US)?.  We might continue this e-mail if ya want.

Bruce   nacelp@bright.net






From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 10:41:44 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
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-----Original Message-----
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, May 10, 1998 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.


>>Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
>>>>
>>>> >now that is 500hp+  std t-bodies are 1000cfm and they ran bosch green
>>>> >injectors with a delco p4 808 ecm    :-)
>>>> <snip>
>>>
>>Anybody have a bin off of something like that??.
>
>The VP commodore rally car I mentioned is going to have the memcal
'tweaked' after the engine build that is under way...
>
>I will ask the efi guy if I can have a copy yeh?
>
>do i need to tell him what format etc?
>
>I could probably get a stock one to, because the 'efi guy' i mention does a
bit of their development


A .bin file would be perfect in my book (for viewing in hex editor).
Any and all bins welcomed.
Please
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 10:53:16 1998
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From: "Dave Balfour" <balfour@bushnell.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Grand National engine question
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 09:53:41 -0500
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I think that I can get a buick grand national engine <3.8 turbo> for
great price. The only problem is that the computer and wiring harness
have been trashed. The original car now has 350 chevy with a holley 4
bbl. Does anyone have a suitable computer and harness available? Any
sugestions?
dave balfour


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 11:46:16 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Grand National engine question
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 11:46:47 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Balfour <balfour@bushnell.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, May 10, 1998 11:36 AM
Subject: Grand National engine question


>I think that I can get a buick grand national engine <3.8 turbo> for
>great price. The only problem is that the computer and wiring harness
>have been trashed. The original car now has 350 chevy with a holley 4
>bbl. Does anyone have a suitable computer and harness available? Any
>sugestions?
>dave balfour
>
If your talking about a 86-87 GN,
The ecm issa 1227148, and shouldn't be too hard to find in a yard.
Casper's Electronic's in IL makes harness's for GN, and custom lenghts.
  If ya search under GN-Ttype you'll probably find their home page,
and they have something called Turbo Trader, or something like
that and used parts for sale.
  If 85-86 then they have a page with tech stuff to go to 87 ecm.
HTH 
Bruce    


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 11:52:55 1998
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Subject: Re: Holdens a little info
References: <3.0.1.32.19980508110641.00a76c60@qtc-mail>
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The Repco Brabham (F1) engine was a modification of the BOP (Buick, Oldsmobile,
Pontiac) alumunum V-8 that has since been sold to Rover (Now and for the past
two decades in the 3500 GT et al).  It was a 3.0 L double overhead design.

There has not been a 5L GP engine since before World War II!



Wayne Blair wrote:

> A little info about some engines used in Holdens:
>
> V8 used in production
> CHEV: 307 327 350
>
> Aussie V8's
> (have always been faster and stronger than chevs and fords of same design
> and capacity - production volume has been only impediment to aftermarket
> and further development. [Repco Brabham was a 5L GP engine was an offshoot
> of the Aussie v8 - maybe?]. That should but the possum in the kitchen ;^) )
>
> 253 small bore 308
> 308 4 inch bore
> 304 destroked to 4999cc under 5L for racing homolagation and complete head
> redesign to make use of EFI
>
> The baby 55 57 chev looking cars used 6cyl from GM Canada
> Grey motors/Side plates, used siamesesd intake port. (Like old blue flames
> chevs ? )
>
> 132 ci
> 138 ci
>
> Also a lot of Red, Blue, Black  aussie 6's like baby
> 292(?) inline (red ?) Chev 6's
> 138, (toranas only)
> 149,179
> 161,186,
> 173,202
>  a nissan 3L also (some one else will know more)
>
> V6
> Buicks (some one else will know which and what)
>
> Hey Justin - wanna add any info so the overseas guys get the full picture
> on downunder GMs?
>
> wayne




From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 13:14:42 1998
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Walter Petermann <corsaro@brokersys.com>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
> Date: Sunday, May 10, 1998 4:52 AM
> Subject: Re: O2 sensor duplicator
> 
> >Bruce Plecan wrote:

> >
> Well I've been told on the TBI it should be 1-5 msec., and on
> the TPI 2-10 msec.  One the TBI rate of fire would be 240/
> sec, and TPI 120/sec.
>    But, I'm still gathering parts to actually be able to fire one
> up.
>    If ya haveta have a more exact answer I quess I could
> mock something up.  I was just "planning" on doing one real
> nice set-up.
>   If anyone has more accurate numbers, PLEASE say something.
> Cheers
> Bruce

Bruce,
I was thinking in the range 2-16ms that should cover
everything.I don't think an injector can open and shut
within 1ms.
Don't worry about not having much data, after you make you
setup you can get your data from a known good ecm.

 Walter

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 13:17:37 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 13:18:10 -0400
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snip
>
>http://www.hsv.com.au
>
>I think you'll be impressed if you liked what you already saw   :)
>
They mention Peter Brock, is that the same one who designed
the Cobra Daoytona Coupe???.
Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 14:19:59 1998
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Matthew Harding wrote:
> 
> At 03:50  9/05/98 EDT, you wrote:
> >In a message dated 98-05-09 13:03:31 EDT, jlindeke@bsfh.org writes:
> >
> ><< A few weeks back someone posted about a web page where a guy made a din
> > sized PC for his miata to play mp3's in his car. could someone send me that
> > address? thanks >>
> >
> >I think this should be the one you're refering to:
> >http://utter.chaos.org.uk/~altman/mp3mobile/
> >BTW, any idea on how difficult it would be to replicate something like this?
> >I'd like to have an auto-mp3 player too!  :)
> >
> >Van
> 
> do you mean difficult, or expensive ???
> 
> not very, and VERY   :)

Please excuse this very basic question,

What is mp3?

 Walter

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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Aussie 808 ??
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 14:43:24 -0400
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On the V-8, aussie, 808's do they use 0 for initial timing?.  
Distributor lead disconnected.  6?.
Jus curious ya know.
Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 15:35:02 1998
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From: "Dave Balfour" <balfour@bushnell.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Grand National engine question
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 14:25:16 -0500
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Bruce, It is supposed to be from an 84 I am not sure.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net
>Subject: Grand National engine question
>
>
>>I think that I can get a buick grand national engine <3.8 turbo>
for
>>great price. The only problem is that the computer and wiring
harness
>>have been trashed. The original car now has 350 chevy with a holley
4
>>bbl. Does anyone have a suitable computer and harness available?
Any
>>sugestions?
>>dave balfour
>>
>If your talking about a 86-87 GN,
>The ecm issa 1227148, and shouldn't be too hard to find in a yard.
>Casper's Electronic's in IL makes harness's for GN, and custom
lenghts.
>  If ya search under GN-Ttype you'll probably find their home page,
>and they have something called Turbo Trader, or something like
>that and used parts for sale.
>  If 85-86 then they have a page with tech stuff to go to 87 ecm.
>HTH
>Bruce
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 16:22:14 1998
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Matthew Harding wrote:
> 
  .......
> I need something that will accept an input voltage between 0 and 5 V...
> and a clock pulse
> 
> and depending on the input voltage, output a pulse who's width varies
> linearly...
> 
> have i explained this right
> 
> so say there's a clock pulse, and the input voltage is 0V, I want a puls of
> 2ms to be the output....
> 
> if there;s a clock pulse, and the input voltage is 5V, I want a pulse of
> 6ms to be output....
> 
> 5V                                     *
>                                     *
> 4V                               *
>                               *
> 3V                         *
>                         *
> 2V                   *
>                   *
> 1V             *
>             *
> 0V       *
> 
>         2ms     3ms     4ms     5ms     6ms
> 
> bit like that.....
> 
> can anyone help me?  I do not want to use any microprocessors in the
> design....
> 
> thanks

Mathew,
If you are handy with electronics you could try a timer chip
like Motorola MC1455/1555. This has a trigger input (for
your clock) and a threshold input to which you would connect
your variable voltage. The output can sink up to 200ma,
enough to turn on an automotive relay (about 80 ohm coil)
with a supply of 12v. Although it would be best to use an
external transistor for the relay. 

 Walter

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 16:44:02 1998
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In a message dated 98-05-10 10:46:38 EDT, you write:

<< >
 >I know of several....  do you mean the v6 or v8 ????
 >
 >I have a friend who has a VP commodore rally car....  with heaps of spares
 >
 >let me know what you want >>

Can anyone tell me what displacement the V6 Holdens are?
TIA
MIke V

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 17:00:55 1998
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From: "Tony Bryant" <Tony.Bryant@psc.fp.co.nz>
Organization: Fisher & Paykel PSC
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 09:01:33 +1200
Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
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> Hey, anybody up for a DIY FlowBench? 

As, it happens, I'm also building a DIY FlowBench. May I enquire:

1) What are you using for (a) blower(s)? 

2) Can you publish your thyristor speed controller circuit, or at 
least give us some rough details? 

FYI:

I'm currently using a hotted up garden leafblower, but I'm only 
getting 10" @ 100 CFM. (Its also very loud).

I'm using the PWM circuit out of the back of the Motorola Thyristor 
book, but it's kinda pulsey in this application.

And a mechanical pressure sender (a modified carb 
secondary vaccum modulator, hooked to a pot) as the feedback to the 
motor controller.

I'm using an uncalibrated flap style MAF (I will calibrate on some 
known heads)

Cheers.

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 17:29:17 1998
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From: Justin Albury <jalbury@tpgi.com.au>
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Bruce Plecan wrote:
> 
> On the V-8, aussie, 808's do they use 0 for initial timing?.
> Distributor lead disconnected.  6?.
> Jus curious ya know.
> Cheers
> Bruce


in feild service mode 10 btdc thats on all ozie cars running the 808.  i
found when a used a wild cam i had to chang the memcal as per normal but
laso take it to about 14-16 btdc whan in feild service mode

justin

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From: "H. J. Zivnak" <bztruck@email.msn.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Calculating Fuel Econ. from pulse times and mph
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 14:42:33 -0700
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The vacuum control of the fuel pressure regulator is an easy and cheap way
to increase the dynamic range of the injector. At idle and cruise the
manifold pressure is low, the fuel pressure is low, and less fuel is
injected per unit of time. When the engine load is high the manifold
pressure is high, the fuel pressure is higher and more fuel is injected per
unit of time.
I think the flow changes as the square root of the pressure ratio
(sqrt(45/39))*30.
I hope this helps,  Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Dillon <mdill@lsil.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Saturday, May 09, 1998 11:47 AM
Subject: Re: Calculating Fuel Econ. from pulse times and mph


>
>The vacuum control actually holds the pressure across the injector
constant.
>In this case the injector duty cycle would be pretty good indication of the
>amount of fuel used. In the case where the presure with respect to atm.
>did not vary with manifold vacuum, the presure across the injector would
>vary and the duty cycle would be an inacurate measurment of fuel flow.
>(unless you did the fuel flow MAP duty cycle table thing)  I think this
>is correct but I have an open mind.
>
>Mike D
>
>
>
>
>> From diy_efi-owner@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu Sat May  9 03:19 CDT 1998
>> From: Daniel Ciobota <dciobota@hiwaay.net>
>> X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.01 [en] (Win95; U)
>>
>> I think I may have missed a few posts, so apologies if I repeat what's
>> already been said.  IMHO, using the A/F ratio and air meter values is
>> better than integrating injector duty cycles over time.  On my mustang,
>> the fuel pressure is controlled by engine vacuum (on my race car, by
>> boost as well), so, unless you've got your fuel pressure curve worked
>> out pretty well, your calculations may contain significant error.  Also,
>> I may be wrong but I believe the ford injectors are rated at 39psi, 100%
>> duty cycle (what is called the static point of the injector).
>>
>>
>> Daniel
>>
>>
>> Clare Snyder wrote:
>>
>> > Roger Heflin wrote:
>> > >
>> > > Hello,
>> > >
>> > > I have been trying to calculate fuel econ. from injector pulse
>> > times.
>> > > I have a batch fire vehicle, I believe I know what the number of
>> > times
>> > > per rpm that the injectors fire.  I think the injecotrs fire once
>> > per
>> > > rpm (is this right).  I know the injector rating (lb/hr), there ford
>> >
>> > > svo injectors which I believe means they are rated at 39 psi, my car
>> >
>> > > is running at 45 psi, so the injectors are doing 45/39 * 30 lb /hr.
>> > > Also the computer says the injecotr is on x.x ms.  I am assuming
>> > that
>> > > is what the computer it telling the injectors to do.  Are the ramp
>> > > up and ramp down times similar enough that you can assume that that
>> > > time is close enough, or are there some transient things that cause
>> > > the actual open time to be less than or greater than that number?
>> > > What I am really tring to do is figure out what the absolute best
>> > > gas mileage my car could get, if it was only crusing, with no
>> > braking
>> > > or acceleration, and also determine how badly different things
>> > affect
>> > > the gas mileage.
>> > >                                 Roger Heflin
>> > >
>> > What you want to do is determine the ACTUAL fuel usage, as well as the
>> >
>> > ELECTRICAL time on of the injectors, then calculate the amount of flow
>> >
>> > per second of injector on time. Then all you have to do is have your
>> > computor, or whatever you are using, add this given fuel amount every
>> > second of real time. By inputting distance into the equasion, you can
>> > get MPG as well as GPH consumption. The CompuCruise system did this
>> > and
>> > was very accurate after a good calibration run. For a simple fuel
>> > totalizer, a calculator can be used. Have a circuit sum the injector
>> > on
>> > time, resetting every totalled second, with the reset closing the= key
>> >
>> > of the calculator. 0+(constant)=======. The constant is the # of
>> > partial
>> > gallons consumed per injector second. Every time the + key is closed,
>> > it
>> > gets added to the total. As for the circuit to time the "injector on"
>> > time, I can't help you, but lots of EEs out there surely can come up
>> > with something complicated, or mabee even simple:}
>> > --
>> >                                _/\_
>> >                        --|-----([])-----|--
>> >                          S    0/  \0    B
>> >          Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
>> >                   E-Mail service is back to normal
>> >                   To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
>> >                     Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
>> >                                 OR
>> > Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
>> > spammers!!!
>> > It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
>> > Turkeys!!!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>




From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 18:16:37 1998
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From: "H. J. Zivnak" <bztruck@email.msn.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: ION Project Papers & Info Sources
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 15:14:07 -0700
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Right you are about the lack of analog black magic!  Take a look at Patent #
4,862,093.
That one transistor is there to turn-off the bias voltage during engine
cranking so the plug does not foul due to the charge across it.
I don't see any filtering at all.

Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com <garfield@pilgrimhouse.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Friday, May 08, 1998 11:48 PM
Subject: Re: ION Project Papers & Info Sources


>On Fri, 08 May 1998 21:57:05 -0700, garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:
>
>>On Fri, 08 May 98 19:37:02 -0700, Andrew Ghali <andrewg@netcom.com>
>>wrote:
>>>http://www.mecel.se/my_html/body_Ion_Sense.htm
>>>
>>>It mentions that Mecel has a patent issued in 1984 on ionization current
>>>measurement used in Saab's DI system.
>>
>>Excellent little blurb there.
>
>Just a couple follow-up comments and some NEWS. In looking at Mecel's
>page a lil more, I see that the DI system (which DOES include ion
>sensing for cylinder commutation) was intro'd in '87, which means this
>stuff IS 10 years old. The other thing to note is that although the
>patent was issued in '84 and deployed in '87, there is a real dearth of
>articles/papers until the mid-ninties. In larger corporate circles, this
>usually means there was a "ban" on publishing sensitive info until
>several years and cash cows could be harvested. This is a likely
>indication that Saab WAS INDEED tryna keep the stuff secret for quite a
>few years.
>
>Now the bit of news. You will note on the Mecel page that there's been a
>DI system in the 9000s since 87/88? Well, a buddy of mine, who manages a
>Saab parts dept. and whom I've been plying with questions since this all
>started, today came up with some notes and a warrantee unit from a '90
>Saab, and the lil board that does the Ion Detection stuff in those
>earlier models is readily viewable (unlike the later models, that are
>SERIOUSLY potted) if you remove the protective covers. On that lil board
>that stands up like a "module" SIP, the ONLY active parts are an LM-139
>Quad Comparator (SGS-Thomson variety with cerdip and -25 to +125degC
>rating, so them guys know what they're doin) and a lone transistor. A
>sprinkling of the usual diodes and passive discretes, of course, but the
>point IS, it ain't no special sauce or any analog black magic, cuz there
>ain't even no op amps, so if there IS any filtering it's of the lowliest
>kind, since there is no active filtering possible on this board. I
>traced the circuit out enough to know for sure this IS the module that
>does the ion detection, cuz two of them comparators directly drive the
>signals that say which cylinder is firing. This is EXTREMELY
>encouraging, cuz if we can understand this technology, the circuitry to
>implement it obviously is pretty dirt simple AND dirt cheap. As a result
>of this latest intel, I am even more confident that after digesting the
>available papers and summing up all our fractional wits, we're VERY
>likely to get a workable DIY implementation. ION is beginning to smile
>upon us, methinks. Maybe if we're nice to her, she's tell us her
>secrets. B)
>
>Gar
>




From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 18:35:07 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Grand National engine question
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 18:35:40 -0400
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Subject: Re: Grand National engine question


>Bruce, It is supposed to be from an 84 I am not sure.
>>
>>
>>>I think that I can get a buick grand national engine <3.8 turbo>
>for
>>>great price. The only problem is that the computer and wiring
>harness
>>>have been trashed. The original car now has 350 chevy with a holley
>4
>>>bbl. Does anyone have a suitable computer and harness available?
>Any
>>>sugestions?

This 3.8 is EFI, right?.   If so then my earlier statements stand, but
use a 148 ecm, even if not intercooled, and Jay Carter over at the
Gn-Ttype list will be able to do a good chip for that.
Also a program called Tweaker over ther for the 148 does a couple
things, not a full editor, again for the 148.
The 148 has been pretty well been x-rayed.
Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 19:56:11 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 16:56:56 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Mon, 11 May 1998 09:01:33 +1200, "Tony Bryant"
<Tony.Bryant@psc.fp.co.nz> wrote:

>As, it happens, I'm also building a DIY FlowBench. May I enquire:
>
>1) What are you using for (a) blower(s)?

Not sure this is gonna be much help to ya in Kiwilandia, but both
SuperFlow and QuadrantSci use multiples of what is refered to in the
trade as ' 5.7" vacuum motor/blowers', made by a number of suppliers,
especially Ametek, w/air-sealed bearings & double-insolated. They make a
line of two-stage blower/turbines that for example, are rated at
102cfm/90"H20, 120VAC@9.2A [Ametek (used to be Amtek-Lamb) part #
116025-13], which sell from a big US electrical supply house like
Grainger for about $70US ea. I have looked inside SuperFlow boxes and
talked to the designer of the QuadrantSci stuff, and in both cases what
they do is of course use multiple blowers in an array, and stacked in
pairs in series electrically, which you CAN do with AC/DC motors, so you
now have a pair of said blowers drawing 9.2A/pair across 240VAC. Put say
4 pairs of these puppies together and you're up to a goodly 36A @
240VAC. Not maxing out your shop feed, by any means, but still alot of
power at 5KVA. And yes, you'd better believe it's gonna be noisy! Not to
mention the  "local warming phenomenon", heh.

>2) Can you publish your thyristor speed controller circuit, or at 
>least give us some rough details? 

Sure, got it directly outta
	http://www.teccor.com/thyristor/an1003.pdf
Look for the "double-time-constant" circuit examples. To get me up to
12A @ 240VAC (25% safety margin above the 9A I expected), I used a
Teccor Q6025J6 Triac and an HT-32 (SGS-Thomson also make the exact same
part they call a DB3) Diac. Both of these devices are available cheap
from DigiKey:
	ftp://ftp.digikey.com/Catalog/V3/PAGES/201-250/211.pdf

This is only good for driving a single PAIR of these blowers, so you
need to invent/rig either a tandem mechanical or electrical way of
controlling the pairs of blowers. If you don't wanna build these up
yerself, and plan on a manual control for the blowers, Dayton Electric
makes a similar knob-controlled circuit for fan & blower control
packaged with an integral heat sink. They charge around $100US for them!
All for a circuit that contains about $12-15 worth of parts. (Hey, all
it takes is 2 middlemen, and that's what it's gotta be marked up to).

For my purposes, controlling these pairs of thyristors/blowers via
computer, I'm gonna use some mosfet devices in place of the pots. Thas
all. (I gotta look at this 5HP 3-phase Paxton blower Bob MacKnight
recently posted on, tho; it sounds too good to be true, buy hey, greater
wonders I've seen happen via "surplus" stuff, so who knows!).
	
>I'm currently using a hotted up garden leafblower, but I'm only 
>getting 10" @ 100 CFM. (Its also very loud).

Well, that just showTaGoYa what kinda power you have to apply to move
that much air at that much vacuum/pressure. Your garden blower can't be
drawing much more than 10-12A @ 120VAC (hmm, not sure what the mains are
in Nz, but just using US figures for ducks). Multiply that by a factor
of 6-8 to get what's needed to do 20" @ 300cfm. Or compare that to the
power both SuperFlow and QuadrantSci spec for their bigger benches. It's
LOTS of AMPS @ 240VAC. Go see at:
	http://www.superflow.com/products/products-flowbench-sf300.htm
and you'll see 240VAC @ 33A or
	http://www.quadsci.com/products/engair/flwbnch/flwbnch.htm
where you will see 240VAC @ 29A, that's because they're using motor
control of the blowers, instead of 'bypass', they get some better
numbers than the SuperFlow chaps, especially at lower flow rates.

>I'm using the PWM circuit out of the back of the Motorola Thyristor 
>book, but it's kinda pulsey in this application.

Hmm, never looked in there. Not familiar.

>And a mechanical pressure sender (a modified carb 
>secondary vaccum modulator, hooked to a pot) as the feedback to the 
>motor controller.
>
>I'm using an uncalibrated flap style MAF (I will calibrate on some 
>known heads)

Alright, yer my kinda guy. It may not be "accurate" or "calibrated" but
for just comparative flow bench studies, which is the real meatNpotatoes
of the issue anyways, as long as the pressure is repeatable and the flow
delta is measurable, that's all that matters. With a small investment in
better pressure measurement, ala the stuff that
"Jack" <goflo@pacbell.net> mentioned earlier:
	http://mot2.indirect.com/senseon/mpxl5010.html
for the sales pitch and
	http://mot2.indirect.com/books/dl200/pdf/mpxl5010rev2.pdf
for the datasheets, for a 0-40"water range, where IF you can operate at
around 20"water, the linearity and accuracy of this device will be just
wunnerful for your/our porpoises. And it's "cheap", too!! (North
American Price List says $13-15 each).

The main thing to get outta all this, I s'pose, is that we're REALLY
movin a whole lotta  AIR to duplicate what a large ICE does whilst
breathing. So whether you go for a 5HP single-piece blower motor, ala
Bob McK's recent post ($350 surplus, so figure $3K new), or you add up a
bunch of smaller blowers like the big boys do (around $500 total, new),
you're still talkin about a lot of power to cover the pumping losses for
that much air flow.

Anywho, Tony, good to see there's at least one other wacko like meself
thinkin alone these lines. I bought/borrowed/read every article/paper I
could find about the older "fixed, knife-edge orifice and manometer"
style FB's ala SuperFlow, but after chatting with the designer of the
QuadSci stuff (whose name is "Oz", oddly enough), I was thoroughly sold
on this newer approach via electric control of everythang. Maybe just
the geek in me, but them knife-edge orifices ain't no easy pie to
calibrate, and have to be moved in and out mechanically, and besides, I
like to avoid the black magic whenever I can.

Just some poop and some thots, dude. 

Cheers,
Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 20:08:25 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: ION Project Papers & Info Sources
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 17:09:12 -0700
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On Sun, 10 May 1998 15:14:07 -0700, "H. J. Zivnak"
<bztruck@email.msn.com> wrote:

>Right you are about the lack of analog black magic!  Take a look at Patent #
>4,862,093.

Woooo, dude, a PATENT #! Excellente'Mundo. I gotta go have a look, and
refresh my legaleeze. Heh.

Gar


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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Whattza Holden?.
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 11:05:06 +1000
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Nope!

Aussie racing legend.

Peter

----------
From: 	Bruce Plecan
Sent: 	Monday, May 11, 1998 3:18 AM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: Whattza Holden?.

snip
>
>http://www.hsv.com.au
>
>I think you'll be impressed if you liked what you already saw   :)
>
They mention Peter Brock, is that the same one who designed
the Cobra Daoytona Coupe???.
Cheers
Bruce



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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 14:40:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Spark plugs/injectors
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059
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-> There are already some direct petrol engines on the market!!!!
->
-> Mitsubishi was the first one! The have the GDI-Engine ready, it's
-> sold even here in Germany at least for 6 - 7 months now!

 Mercedes built direct-injection automobile gasoline engines from the
1950s through the 1970s, and they weren't the first to do it.

 Bosch timed/metered rig, what they call sequential nowadays.  Worked
just fine, too.  Of course, these were all mechanical rigs, not
electronic.
                                                                                        

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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 20:20:41 -0500
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Newark keeps the pressure sensors in stock no real wait all the other
must order from Mot. no stock . If you have to order from Mot you will
wait wait wait wait and wait.
hope this will save phone call since I did this already .
Have a good week.

Steve


garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:

> On Mon, 11 May 1998 09:01:33 +1200, "Tony Bryant"
> <Tony.Bryant@psc.fp.co.nz> wrote:
>
> >As, it happens, I'm also building a DIY FlowBench. May I enquire:
> >
> >1) What are you using for (a) blower(s)?
>
> Not sure this is gonna be much help to ya in Kiwilandia, but both
> SuperFlow and QuadrantSci use multiples of what is refered to in the
> trade as ' 5.7" vacuum motor/blowers', made by a number of suppliers,
> especially Ametek, w/air-sealed bearings & double-insolated. They make
> a
> line of two-stage blower/turbines that for example, are rated at
> 102cfm/90"H20, 120VAC@9.2A [Ametek (used to be Amtek-Lamb) part #
> 116025-13], which sell from a big US electrical supply house like
> Grainger for about $70US ea. I have looked inside SuperFlow boxes and
> talked to the designer of the QuadrantSci stuff, and in both cases
> what
> they do is of course use multiple blowers in an array, and stacked in
> pairs in series electrically, which you CAN do with AC/DC motors, so
> you
> now have a pair of said blowers drawing 9.2A/pair across 240VAC. Put
> say
> 4 pairs of these puppies together and you're up to a goodly 36A @
> 240VAC. Not maxing out your shop feed, by any means, but still alot of
>
> power at 5KVA. And yes, you'd better believe it's gonna be noisy! Not
> to
> mention the  "local warming phenomenon", heh.
>
> >2) Can you publish your thyristor speed controller circuit, or at
> >least give us some rough details?
>
> Sure, got it directly outta
>         http://www.teccor.com/thyristor/an1003.pdf
> Look for the "double-time-constant" circuit examples. To get me up to
> 12A @ 240VAC (25% safety margin above the 9A I expected), I used a
> Teccor Q6025J6 Triac and an HT-32 (SGS-Thomson also make the exact
> same
> part they call a DB3) Diac. Both of these devices are available cheap
> from DigiKey:
>         ftp://ftp.digikey.com/Catalog/V3/PAGES/201-250/211.pdf
>
> This is only good for driving a single PAIR of these blowers, so you
> need to invent/rig either a tandem mechanical or electrical way of
> controlling the pairs of blowers. If you don't wanna build these up
> yerself, and plan on a manual control for the blowers, Dayton Electric
>
> makes a similar knob-controlled circuit for fan & blower control
> packaged with an integral heat sink. They charge around $100US for
> them!
> All for a circuit that contains about $12-15 worth of parts. (Hey, all
>
> it takes is 2 middlemen, and that's what it's gotta be marked up to).
>
> For my purposes, controlling these pairs of thyristors/blowers via
> computer, I'm gonna use some mosfet devices in place of the pots. Thas
>
> all. (I gotta look at this 5HP 3-phase Paxton blower Bob MacKnight
> recently posted on, tho; it sounds too good to be true, buy hey,
> greater
> wonders I've seen happen via "surplus" stuff, so who knows!).
>
> >I'm currently using a hotted up garden leafblower, but I'm only
> >getting 10" @ 100 CFM. (Its also very loud).
>
> Well, that just showTaGoYa what kinda power you have to apply to move
> that much air at that much vacuum/pressure. Your garden blower can't
> be
> drawing much more than 10-12A @ 120VAC (hmm, not sure what the mains
> are
> in Nz, but just using US figures for ducks). Multiply that by a factor
>
> of 6-8 to get what's needed to do 20" @ 300cfm. Or compare that to the
>
> power both SuperFlow and QuadrantSci spec for their bigger benches.
> It's
> LOTS of AMPS @ 240VAC. Go see at:
>         http://www.superflow.com/products/products-flowbench-sf300.htm
>
> and you'll see 240VAC @ 33A or
>         http://www.quadsci.com/products/engair/flwbnch/flwbnch.htm
> where you will see 240VAC @ 29A, that's because they're using motor
> control of the blowers, instead of 'bypass', they get some better
> numbers than the SuperFlow chaps, especially at lower flow rates.
>
> >I'm using the PWM circuit out of the back of the Motorola Thyristor
> >book, but it's kinda pulsey in this application.
>
> Hmm, never looked in there. Not familiar.
>
> >And a mechanical pressure sender (a modified carb
> >secondary vaccum modulator, hooked to a pot) as the feedback to the
> >motor controller.
> >
> >I'm using an uncalibrated flap style MAF (I will calibrate on some
> >known heads)
>
> Alright, yer my kinda guy. It may not be "accurate" or "calibrated"
> but
> for just comparative flow bench studies, which is the real
> meatNpotatoes
> of the issue anyways, as long as the pressure is repeatable and the
> flow
> delta is measurable, that's all that matters. With a small investment
> in
> better pressure measurement, ala the stuff that
> "Jack" <goflo@pacbell.net> mentioned earlier:
>         http://mot2.indirect.com/senseon/mpxl5010.html
> for the sales pitch and
>         http://mot2.indirect.com/books/dl200/pdf/mpxl5010rev2.pdf
> for the datasheets, for a 0-40"water range, where IF you can operate
> at
> around 20"water, the linearity and accuracy of this device will be
> just
> wunnerful for your/our porpoises. And it's "cheap", too!! (North
> American Price List says $13-15 each).
>
> The main thing to get outta all this, I s'pose, is that we're REALLY
> movin a whole lotta  AIR to duplicate what a large ICE does whilst
> breathing. So whether you go for a 5HP single-piece blower motor, ala
> Bob McK's recent post ($350 surplus, so figure $3K new), or you add up
> a
> bunch of smaller blowers like the big boys do (around $500 total,
> new),
> you're still talkin about a lot of power to cover the pumping losses
> for
> that much air flow.
>
> Anywho, Tony, good to see there's at least one other wacko like meself
>
> thinkin alone these lines. I bought/borrowed/read every article/paper
> I
> could find about the older "fixed, knife-edge orifice and manometer"
> style FB's ala SuperFlow, but after chatting with the designer of the
> QuadSci stuff (whose name is "Oz", oddly enough), I was thoroughly
> sold
> on this newer approach via electric control of everythang. Maybe just
> the geek in me, but them knife-edge orifices ain't no easy pie to
> calibrate, and have to be moved in and out mechanically, and besides,
> I
> like to avoid the black magic whenever I can.
>
> Just some poop and some thots, dude.
>
> Cheers,
> Gar




From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 21:30:32 1998
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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 21:34:31 -0400
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From: Eileen Tholey <emt122@psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
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I am interested in the V8 manifold.  It looks similar to the Chevy LS1, but
I am told it has twin throttle bodies.

TIA

Paul
At 11:10 PM 5/10/98 +1000, you wrote:
>At 05:56  6/05/98 -0400, you wrote:
>>Where the h*ll can I get that K*ck *ss TPI intake in the Holdens?  I am
>serious!
>>
>>Paul Tholey
>
>
>I know of several....  do you mean the v6 or v8 ????
>
>I have a friend who has a VP commodore rally car....  with heaps of spares
>
>let me know what you want
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 21:32:29 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Steve Lamb <lambs@HOTBLK.dsto.defence.gov.au>
Subject: Re: Holdens a little info
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>From what I'm told, the 3L Nissan motor was actually designed in Australia,
>by GM Holden engineers as a joint venture of Holden/Nissan. They were, of

No, the RB30 is a Nissan design, although some would argue that it has
strong links to the Prince engine company which Nissan took over in the
'60s.  The Holden engineers merely "Australianised" the engine with changes
to cam profile and ECU Maps.

>course, built by Nissan, and they were discontinued be Holden mainly because
>Nissan charged extortionate prices for them. Basically, they saw out their
>contract of purchase to Nissan, and then went as quickly to the VN's V6 as
>they could. At least, this is so I'm told. However, it would seem to be

Well, sorry, but what you have been told is, again, wrong.   GMH entered
into what was basically a fixed price contract for the supply of the RB30
for the VL Commodore, which, at the time the contract was signed, was a
good deal.  Unfortunately, what they didn't (and largely couldn't) forsee
was the simple fact that the Aussie $ dropped in value BIG TIME against the
Yen in the mid 80's, so the cost per engine sky-rocketed.  Of course, to
stay competitive with Ford, Holden couldn't simply raise the overall price
of the Commodore to recoup the engine costs - and the rest is history.
GMH was an innocent player in this, but you can hardly blame Nissan or the
Japanese either (unless, of course, you subscribe to the the theory that
the Japanese used their commercial "crystal ball" and effectively
"engineered" a decline in the value of the OZ $ to gain an advantage).

>true, as lmy Father was looking at puting one of the Nissan engines into his
>HX Kingswood at one time, and at the Holden spare parts place, they told him
>$9000 for a short motor from the VL Commodore, and then they said that he
>would be better to go to a wrecker and get one. As it turned out, he would
>heve had to make engine bay mods to get it in, so he didn't bother. As for

New prices for "genuine parts" (ie with the GMH logo plastered all over)
are always going to be extortionate.  Hardly surprising that a lot of work
would be required to fit an RB30 to a HX: it is a _totally_ different
engine to the old 186/202 pushrod designs.  Still, sounds like a damn good
idea, and I know which engine I'd prefer ;-)

>the V6 - Yes, it's a Buick, although I don't know what, exactly, but I'm
>told that it is a re-hash of an **OLD** engine (hence, the pushrods). As for
>the Ecotec V6... It's a completely redesigned engine, so I'm told (by a guy
>at the showroom a couple of years ago). Apparently, both the bore and stroke
>are different, there are more aerodynamic inlet, and exhaust manifolds,
>etc... Basically, it is a completely new engine, within the old casting, or,
>at least, so I'm told.

A Holden engineer told me that there are virtually no interchangeable parts
between the Ecotec and earlier versions.  For example, there's around 0.5"
difference in deck height alone between them.


Steve Lamb
Department of Defence, DSTO
Aeronautical and Maritime Research Laboratory
506 Lorimer Street
Fishermans Bend  VIC 3207 Australia

Tel: +61 3 9626 7525
Fax: +61 3 9626 7089

IZCC #180



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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
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Just had a look,

0xD0000 looks ok, LDS 0x01FF as expected but then JSRs to D97B - should be D87B (RTS time waste) in the '808.

Also, buckets of 0x00 is represented as 0x01 - I think and extra bit is flipped here or their.

Cheers,

Peter



----------
From: 	Scot Sealander
Sent: 	Sunday, May 10, 1998 12:26 PM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: Whattza Holden?.

Justin Albury wrote:

> > Anybody have a bin off of something like that??.

> try this...ambx
> this was the the production version.....when played with ....welll  :-)

Justin must have a defective PROM reader.  This file is also corrupt.
Either that or every single location has an odd value..... ;-)

Scot Sealander    Sealand@clarityconnect.com



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From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 21:47:29 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Whattza Holden?.
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 11:46:05 +1000
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Hi,

Get it as a raw binary file or .S19. 

Also find out what package was used to generate the calibration.

Also, wing a copy this way if thats not a problem :-)

Cheers,

Peter

----------
From: 	Matthew Harding
Sent: 	Sunday, May 10, 1998 11:36 PM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: Whattza Holden?.

At 10:53  8/05/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Date: Friday, May 08, 1998 10:39 AM
>Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
>>>
>>> >the group-A it is a twin t-bodie setup with a huge plemin chamber with
>>> >stright runners that if you shine a light down the runner you can see
>>> >the valve and up the top end are some s/steel trumpets which with little
>>> >mods can be made adjustable........these little babys are good for 400kw
>>> >now that is 500hp+  std t-bodies are 1000cfm and they ran bosch green
>>> >injectors with a delco p4 808 ecm    :-)
>>> <snip>
>>
>Anybody have a bin off of something like that??.

The VP commodore rally car I mentioned is going to have the memcal
'tweaked' after the engine build that is under way...

I will ask the efi guy if I can have a copy yeh?

do i need to tell him what format etc?

I could probably get a stock one to, because the 'efi guy' i mention does a
bit of their development



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From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 21:52:36 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Aussie 808 ??
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 11:52:41 +1000
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>From memory,

10 deg with the ECU in diag mode.

Peter

----------
From: 	Bruce Plecan
Sent: 	Monday, May 11, 1998 4:43 AM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Aussie 808 ??

On the V-8, aussie, 808's do they use 0 for initial timing?.  
Distributor lead disconnected.  6?.
Jus curious ya know.
Cheers
Bruce



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From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 22:09:26 1998
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Subject: Re: Holdens a little info
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Actually, the normally aspirated 3L is the RB-30E, and the Turbo is the
RB-30ET. RB-30E has comp. ratio of 9:1, and the RB-30ET has comp. ratio of
7.5:1, so obviously, they have different heads. Even still, both have
problems with cracking heads, so you have to be careful not to everheat
them. Even still, I've heard of a RB-30ET getting 470 HP, and another (with
a little bit of nitrous) getting 670 HP. Not bad from a 3L engine...


>> a nissan 3L also (some one else will know more)
>
>The nissan is an RB-30
>
>in both normally aspirated, and turbo configurations.....
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 22:18:02 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Holdens a little info
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 12:20:49 +1000
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----------
From: 	Justin Albury
Sent: 	Sunday, May 10, 1998 7:00 AM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: Holdens a little info

Peter Jaramaz wrote:
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Just being picky :-)

true about the vl but also the vl was the first of the efi 304 with the
totaly awsome group-a version 4.9 efi

Oh yeah, drove a worked Walky a few years back - I tell ya, its was frightenly quick :-)

the rb30 is a nissan inline 6 that weighed 14 kg more and 7 kw less than
the series 1 3800 v6........hey but then we also added a turbo... :-)

Now thats interesting given the 3800 has iron heads and 0.8L more capacity.

justin


Peter
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 22:21:05 1998
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Subject: RE: Whattza Holden?.
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It's a damned shame he had to retire. It would have been nice if he had won
a tenth Bathurst. Oh well... Sh-1-t happens...


>Nope!
>
>Aussie racing legend.
>
>Peter


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 22:23:07 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Holdens a little info
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 12:24:15 +1000
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Hi all,

>true, as lmy Father was looking at puting one of the Nissan engines =
into his
>HX Kingswood at one time, and at the Holden spare parts place, they =
told him
>$9000 for a short motor from the VL Commodore, and then they said that =
he
>would be better to go to a wrecker and get one. As it turned out, he =
would
>heve had to make engine bay mods to get it in, so he didn't bother. As =
for

New prices for "genuine parts" (ie with the GMH logo plastered all over)
are always going to be extortionate.  Hardly surprising that a lot of =
work
would be required to fit an RB30 to a HX: it is a _totally_ different
engine to the old 186/202 pushrod designs.  Still, sounds like a damn =
good
idea, and I know which engine I'd prefer ;-)

Interesting bit of info - a new VS V6 short engine (with a few =
accesories not normally associated with a short engine) from GMH is only =
$2800.=20

>the V6 - Yes, it's a Buick, although I don't know what, exactly, but =
I'm
>told that it is a re-hash of an **OLD** engine (hence, the pushrods). =
As for
>the Ecotec V6... It's a completely redesigned engine, so I'm told (by a =
guy
>at the showroom a couple of years ago). Apparently, both the bore and =
stroke
>are different, there are more aerodynamic inlet, and exhaust manifolds,
>etc... Basically, it is a completely new engine, within the old =
casting, or,
>at least, so I'm told.

A Holden engineer told me that there are virtually no interchangeable =
parts
between the Ecotec and earlier versions.  For example, there's around =
0.5"
difference in deck height alone between them.

Very true - trying to stick and Eaton charger on a series I VN V6 :-(


Peter
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From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 22:28:12 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Whattza Holden?.
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 12:27:18 +1000
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Yep,

Twin staged throttle bodies (small primary, large secondary). Worth =
about $2000 AUS if you can find one. I've heard unconfirmed reports that =
GMH parts supply has dried up.

Peter

----------
From: 	Eileen Tholey
Sent: 	Monday, May 11, 1998 11:34 AM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: Whattza Holden?.

I am interested in the V8 manifold.  It looks similar to the Chevy LS1, =
but
I am told it has twin throttle bodies.

TIA

Paul
At 11:10 PM 5/10/98 +1000, you wrote:
>At 05:56  6/05/98 -0400, you wrote:
>>Where the h*ll can I get that K*ck *ss TPI intake in the Holdens?  I =
am
>serious!
>>
>>Paul Tholey
>
>
>I know of several....  do you mean the v6 or v8 ????
>
>I have a friend who has a VP commodore rally car....  with heaps of =
spares
>
>let me know what you want
>
>
>



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ADZq

------ =_NextPart_000_01BD7CD8.23E17440--



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 22:33:06 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: Spark plugs/injectors & specified ignition energy
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On both my coil, and my distributor, I have the "male" connections
(although, I intend to get a new ignition controller, and a new coil, and
the coil may have a "female" connection - These are obviously non-standard
parts). I won't buy one just now, but I'll keep your message so I can
contact you when I'm ready to buy one. What air:fuel ratios can this thing
burn down to? I would like to be able to lean out my carburettor (Yes, I
have an antiquated engine, but I intend to convert it to EFI, when I have
the money, either this, or put in another engine with EFI already installed
on it). Thanks for your help.

Danny Barrett.

>Hi, Danny
>
>It will surely work well as long as your engine has a separate,
>exchangeable cable between coil and distributor! With your car this should
>be the case. If you can specify the type of connectors used for this cable
>on each side, I'll look if I can get a suitable one for you. All the energy
>transformation system is included around this cable. And it works
>independently from primary creation system for energy such as coil or
>voltage. It influences and works completely on the high-voltage secondary
>side of the ignition energy, because that's what makes the engine really
>run!
>
>Joachim 


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 22:39:23 1998
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Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 12:39:51 +1000
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Steve Lamb <lambs@HOTBLK.dsto.defence.gov.au>
Subject: Re: Holdens a little info
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>Actually, the normally aspirated 3L is the RB-30E, and the Turbo is the
>RB-30ET. RB-30E has comp. ratio of 9:1, and the RB-30ET has comp. ratio of
>7.5:1, so obviously, they have different heads. Even still, both have
>problems with cracking heads, so you have to be careful not to everheat

The head cracking problem is very common in VL Commodes, but is a direct
consequence of the cooling system design (low radiator header tank relative
to the head), which was in turn dictated by the bonnet/front-end design.
R31 Skylines - which use an identical drive train, but a more "practical"
radiator design - did not suffer anywhere near the same amount of cracking
problems (but did suffer some problems mainly on poorly maintained
vehicles).

BTW, maybe you should blame Australians for the head cracking problem......
:-).    After all these heads were/are cast right here in Oz:  at Nissan's
casting plant just outside of Dandenong, Vic.

>them. Even still, I've heard of a RB-30ET getting 470 HP, and another (with
>a little bit of nitrous) getting 670 HP. Not bad from a 3L engine...

....yes, and just think what we could have had in a Commodore if Nissan had
kept the engine contract with GMH.......an optional RB26DETT (GTR engine)
powered Commode........Hmmmm.......even might have considered buying one
myself.



Steve Lamb
Department of Defence, DSTO
Aeronautical and Maritime Research Laboratory
506 Lorimer Street
Fishermans Bend  VIC 3207 Australia

Tel: +61 3 9626 7525
Fax: +61 3 9626 7089

IZCC #180



From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 23:14:56 1998
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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 23:14:07 EDT
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Hi all,

I acquired a fuel-injection sytem from an '88 Chevy Berreta 2.8 V6 (730 MAP
based system), and I put it on my Jag 4.2 straight six, using a manifold and
throttlebody from a later fuel injected Jag.  The injectors are 24# Ford SVO
(the original jag injectors were 20# low impedence, and not large enough for
my modified engine.)
I eliminated everything from the harness except the MAP, TPS, water temp, air
temp, knock sensor, and DIS.  I have the P\N wire grounded.
The car runs pretty well, EXCEPT for the throttle response.  The throttle
response is so bad, that from a stop, the car will stall when I step on the
gas unless I press the gas pedal as softly and slowly as I possibly can.  Even
then the car stumbles rather severely before taking off.  The throttle
response is pretty poor, even at speeds up to about 60 MPH.   The car
accelerates smoothly once it gets going.  Idle is pretty good, too.  WOT is a
little rich, but thats not too bad, actually!  
I have checked out the TPS, since I would imagine this is where the problem
would originate, but everything seems to be OK.  I get no error codes, and I
have the TPS set to about .65 volts at idle (the manual states .45 to .85 V at
closed throttle) and it goes up to about 4.5v at full throttle.  I have tried
adjusting TPS in different positions, all the way up to 1.1V at idle, with the
best results at higher voltages, but still unacceptable throttle response.
The only thing I can think of is that the Jag throttle plate is SO MUCH larger
than the Chevy (about 65mm vs. @ 45mm? (I didn't measure, but its a BIG
difference.))  I think this might result in a much larger amount of air
rushing in at small throttle openings.  But then the engine is much larger,
also.  So ratios might be the same, and that is what counts.
Has anybody else had similar problems?  Does anybody have any ideas as to what
could be causing this or any suggestions or work arounds?
ANY suggestions would be welcome. This seems to be the only (however severe)
problem with this system so far.  I have excellent idle, acceleration, milage,
etc.  But the throttle response problem makes the car almost un-drivable in
traffic (and maybe even a little dangerous!)

TIA,
Adam

PS I even checked the Harness for continuity, and there are no problems there.

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 23:34:45 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Pressure Sensors & ION Eyes
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 20:35:32 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
Message-ID: <35656917.20857796@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
References: <35528973.5A57@pacbell.net> <138CECC3D20@psc.fp.co.nz> <35582076.2264265@santaclara01.pop.internex.net> <35565267.2EC950DC@mwt.net>
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On Sun, 10 May 1998 20:20:41 -0500, Steven Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
wrote:

>Newark keeps the pressure sensors in stock no real wait all the other
>must order from Mot. no stock . If you have to order from Mot you will
>wait wait wait wait and wait.
>hope this will save phone call since I did this already .
>Have a good week.
>
>Steve

>>With a small investment
>> in
>> better pressure measurement, ala the stuff that
>> "Jack" <goflo@pacbell.net> mentioned earlier:
>>         http://mot2.indirect.com/senseon/mpxl5010.html
>> for the sales pitch and
>>         http://mot2.indirect.com/books/dl200/pdf/mpxl5010rev2.pdf
>> for the datasheets, for a 0-40"water range, where IF you can operate
>> at
>> around 20"water, the linearity and accuracy of this device will be
>> just
>> wunnerful for your/our porpoises. And it's "cheap", too!! (North
>> American Price List says $13-15 each).

RATS!!! I bloody hate it when this happens. CRAP.  I KNEW there was
someone else that had posted on this Moto pressure sensor stuff, and it
WAS SteveGork that first mentioned using these devices in his flow
bench, to me. I looked back in my archived posts, and in the time I took
to look, I found Jack's followup, but not Steve's initial post, so mea
culpa. YEAH, yeah, I know we're not running the no-bell prize committee
here, nor the Academy frigging Awards, but it's a pisser when someone
contributes some essential lead, and ends up not getting the credit he's
due.

So thanks Steve for the lead and for graciously not getting pissed at me
for not giving you kudos where it was due. I don't mean to make a big
deal outta this, but this whole bloody group clicks and runs on the key
inputs of this kinda stuff, and so I ALWAYS wanna thank those that put
in the essential plug-ins that make the whole thang run. That lead for
them Moto devices is KEY to me building the FB of me dreams. Nough said.

BUTTTT just to give ya an another way COOL example of how this dynamic
works, consider the following. I post sumpin about ION not seeming to
involve alot of special sauce in order to work, and Joe Zivnak posts a
comment on the original Saab patent (hey Joe, what you did dude!). OK,
so I go over to the IBM patent page:
	http://www.patents.ibm.com
look up the patent Joe mentioned ( 4,862,093 ), and *danged* if it's not
almost the exact same schematic that I've pulled from that '90 Saab DI
module I got from my Saab parts dept. buddy, some of which I've been
scratching my head for days, wondering "now why did they do THAT?" So
now I have a running commentary of how the circuit I'm looking at works,
POOF! Hah! WHERE else, I ask you, could this sorta thing take place and
gell, except for groups like ours!!

Not to sound like I'm gushing over the obvious, lemme just drop another
lil gem I got outta that patent, thanks to Joe, that REALLY sweetens the
pot: (page 6, the last page of the patent text)
	"Although the invention has been exemplified with reference to a
capacitive ignition system, it will be understood that the invention can
also be applied with an inductive ignition system."

Hee hee. Here, where the Saab patent attorneys try to cover their bases,
should a counter claim be made that THEIR patent & technique only was
possible/feasible and therefore only applies to CDI, they hand us a
royal golden EGG, by confirming that there's nuthin particularly crucial
about using CDI with this system. Now, lest you think this is a mere
detail of minutia, consider the fact that CDI is notorious for producing
MUCH faster sparks than inductive IGN, and so I had always harbored some
fear in the back of my mind that we might not be able to use this
technique on our stock IGN systems, simply because by the time the
inductive spark ionization finished, there'd be nothing left to work
with, vis-a-vis ionization detection. This one lil sentence in the
patent disclosure says "not to worry", we WILL be able to apply this
technique to our normal inductive IGN system fired plugs.

So, just to illustrate how vitally important the fractional wit system
is to our endeavors, I offer these two prima facia examples. Hey, I can
now even post a schematic with values on it, from the Saab module I
have, since the patent discloses and protects from commercial
exploitation, that very circuit!! Howja like THEM apples, maties? Make
use of it for your own "research" purposes, and you're fine; try and
cash in on it, and you're in a world of hurt! Ain't it grand! I LOVE it!

Wahhhhoooo! ION lives! And she's prettier than ever. Whew, wadda rush.

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 23:49:16 1998
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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 23:48:23 EDT
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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In a message dated 98-05-04 21:03:14 EDT, you write:

<< Attn: Ford Guys
 
         A friend with a 1994 Escort GT, 1.8 twin cam is looking to do some
 minor modifications.  The MAF is the flapper door style.  It has a 7 pin
 connector.  We pulled the other style MAF off a plain Escort.  It has a 4
 pin connector labled A B C D.  Is there a way to incorporate this less
 restictive MAF into the twin cam Escort setup?  I think they both have the
 same output, just concerned about the scaling.
         Anyother tips/advice is appreciated.
 
 Paul Tholey
  >>

Here is a sight with alot of info on Bosch AirFlowMeters (AFMs) I think they
are identical to the ones Ford uses.  Actually, I think the Ford units even
use Bosch parts #s.

http://www.students.tut.fi/~k124775/

The problem is, I can't get thru to the sight at the moment.  I don't know if
they are haveing temporary server problems, or are defunct.  But it WAS a
great sight.
They had a chart showing the voltage to Air Flow ratio (what you are looking
for) although it would be different in different sized AFMs.  The reason for
the extra pins (i think) would be the Air temp which is used as a seperate
factor in the calculation when using AFMs, whereas with MAFs, this is built in
to the 0-5v output.  I am pretty sure AFMs also put out 0-5v.
Anyway, that's all I know (or think I know!)

Adam

From diy_efi-owner  Sun May 10 23:50:13 1998
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From: Charles Taylor-iii <chtaylor@eng.usf.edu>
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Wondering if anyone could refer me to some good books on EFI?
Lookinf for books for the beginner up to design.  Looking for books that
explain how different types of fuel injection work and how to control
them.  Any titles would be appreciated. Thanks.

Chuck Taylor
chtaylor@eng.usf.edu
*******************************'84 Kawasaki 900 Ninja
* University of South Florida *   7.21 @ 96.37  1/8th mile
* Mechanical Engineering Dept *  11.37 @ 117.27 1/4 mile
*  (7 months and counting)    *'80 Kawasaki Z1-R 1000
*******************************  Restoration project 


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 00:28:26 1998
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Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 22:14:42 -0600
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@mcn.net>
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Matthew Harding wrote:
> 
> At 05:36  7/05/98 +1000, you wrote:
> >>From what I'm told, the Holden V8 is a completely Australian designed engine
> >(but I could have been told a heap of crap...). As for the V6, I believe it
> >is a Buick. However, with the "Ecotec" V6, it is basically loosely designed
> >on the previous Buick re-hash, and not, in reality the same engine, although
> >the cubic displacement is still nominally 3.8L.
> 
> actually the Holden 308 V8 has some very close similarities to the small
> block chev...  the 350 Chev crankshaft is used in the 308 to stroke it to
> around 383 ci.
> 
> do you think a Chev crank would bolt into an aussie designed engine ?  hmmm
Whatza bore-n-stroke on the 308?  Looks like roughly 4.18
inch bore, and 2.8 inch stroke (assuming no oversize to
build 383).
I'd like to toss some numbers back and forth if you have
them handy.

Shannen

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 01:04:43 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Sun, 10 May 1998 21:57:44 +0000
Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
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Gar 

I remembered why I was looking at those blowers.  For a High Volume 
Low Pressure paint syatem.  The guns aren't two pricey, but the 
turbines are outlandish.  So if you build a flow bench, you can also 
do HVLP painting.  Probably several guns at once.
I ended up with a GRACO high pressure airless rig.  No, not for the 
same job.  The GRACO is to spray elasotmeric on my roof.
It looked like powder coating was goin to be preferable to HVLP  for 
engine and small parts.  Maybe Ron will share his knowledge on whats 
needed to do a good powder coating job.   I have seen some excellent 
work and one fuselage where the inside of the joints was bare.  I 
have a pretty good sandblast set up so just about every project makes 
me wonder about powder coating.  My electric lo-rider bike frame got 
a quote of $50 and it was sandblasted.  Thats as much as it cost to 
build the bike.  I gave it a coat of clear spray paint and moved on.

Bob McKnight
Phx AZ

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 01:31:35 1998
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ABTSZ wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I acquired a fuel-injection sytem from an '88 Chevy Berreta 2.8 V6 (730 MAP
> based system), and I put it on my Jag 4.2 straight six, using a manifold and
> throttlebody from a later fuel injected Jag.  The injectors are 24# Ford SVO
> (the original jag injectors were 20# low impedence, and not large enough for
> my modified engine.)
> I eliminated everything from the harness except the MAP, TPS, water temp, air
> temp, knock sensor, and DIS.  I have the P\N wire grounded.
> The car runs pretty well, EXCEPT for the throttle response.  The throttle
> response is so bad, that from a stop, the car will stall when I step on the
> gas unless I press the gas pedal as softly and slowly as I possibly can.  Even
> then the car stumbles rather severely before taking off.  The throttle
> response is pretty poor, even at speeds up to about 60 MPH.   The car
> accelerates smoothly once it gets going.  Idle is pretty good, too.  WOT is a
> little rich, but thats not too bad, actually!
> I have checked out the TPS, since I would imagine this is where the problem
> would originate, but everything seems to be OK.  I get no error codes, and I
> have the TPS set to about .65 volts at idle (the manual states .45 to .85 V at
> closed throttle) and it goes up to about 4.5v at full throttle.  I have tried
> adjusting TPS in different positions, all the way up to 1.1V at idle, with the
> best results at higher voltages, but still unacceptable throttle response.
> The only thing I can think of is that the Jag throttle plate is SO MUCH larger
> than the Chevy (about 65mm vs. @ 45mm? (I didn't measure, but its a BIG
> difference.))  I think this might result in a much larger amount of air
> rushing in at small throttle openings.  But then the engine is much larger,
> also.  So ratios might be the same, and that is what counts.
> Has anybody else had similar problems?  Does anybody have any ideas as to what
> could be causing this or any suggestions or work arounds?
> ANY suggestions would be welcome. This seems to be the only (however severe)
> problem with this system so far.  I have excellent idle, acceleration, milage,
> etc.  But the throttle response problem makes the car almost un-drivable in
> traffic (and maybe even a little dangerous!)
> 
> TIA,
> Adam
> 
> PS I even checked the Harness for continuity, and there are no problems there.

To test yout throttle pot you might try taking it off the
throttle body and operating it manually with the car at
idle. If you don't get any change in rpm while turning it by
hand...

If it does turn out that it's working, you might try to move
the map sensor vacuum hose closer to the throttle plate, if
that's possible.

 Walter

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 01:38:29 1998
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Charles Taylor-iii wrote:
> 
> Wondering if anyone could refer me to some good books on EFI?
> Lookinf for books for the beginner up to design.  Looking for books that
> explain how different types of fuel injection work and how to control
> them.  Any titles would be appreciated. Thanks.
> 
> Chuck Taylor
> chtaylor@eng.usf.edu
> *******************************'84 Kawasaki 900 Ninja
> * University of South Florida *   7.21 @ 96.37  1/8th mile
> * Mechanical Engineering Dept *  11.37 @ 117.27 1/4 mile
> *  (7 months and counting)    *'80 Kawasaki Z1-R 1000
> *******************************  Restoration project

Hellow Chuck,

for a basic introduction try Chilton's Guide to Fuel
Injection. Should be available at any large auto parts
store.

  Walter

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 02:29:53 1998
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Subject: Re: Throttle Response Problems
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Well you may not have enough AE accel enrichment. Assuming all works ok
your rate of airflow increase due to the bigger tb might be doing it.

Some where in your lookups are the AE coeffs for the asynch enrichment.
They are based on absolute map and tps with a delta map and tps term
as well as a temp variable.

Still though before diggin through all that code you might try using
diacom. This works beautifully to record all the vars during a run.

You could try as a fix the 600 ohm resistor trick on you ctc.
This will enrich the mixture slightly..

well all my 2 pence can

:peter

At 11:14 PM 5/10/98 EDT, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>I acquired a fuel-injection sytem from an '88 Chevy Berreta 2.8 V6 (730 MAP
>based system), and I put it on my Jag 4.2 straight six, using a manifold and
>throttlebody from a later fuel injected Jag.  The injectors are 24# Ford SVO
>(the original jag injectors were 20# low impedence, and not large enough for
>my modified engine.)


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 02:33:14 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: Holdens a little info
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Just as a matter of interest, today I was told about the "official" reason
for the head cracking in the VL. Something in the radiator supposedly works
loose, and restricts the coolant flow. Supposedly, if you get a radiator
specialist to open up the radiator and take the bit out, they have no more
overheating/cracking problems. Trouble is, I can't remember all the details
about it, so my description is pretty sketchy.

The RB-30ET with 670 HP actually had the GTR head put onto it, so that's
part of the equation. Anyway, gotta go...

Danny Barrett.

>The head cracking problem is very common in VL Commodes, but is a direct
>consequence of the cooling system design (low radiator header tank relative
>to the head), which was in turn dictated by the bonnet/front-end design.
>R31 Skylines - which use an identical drive train, but a more "practical"
>radiator design - did not suffer anywhere near the same amount of cracking
>problems (but did suffer some problems mainly on poorly maintained
>vehicles).
>
>BTW, maybe you should blame Australians for the head cracking problem......
>:-).    After all these heads were/are cast right here in Oz:  at Nissan's
>casting plant just outside of Dandenong, Vic.
>
>>them. Even still, I've heard of a RB-30ET getting 470 HP, and another (with
>>a little bit of nitrous) getting 670 HP. Not bad from a 3L engine...
>
>....yes, and just think what we could have had in a Commodore if Nissan had
>kept the engine contract with GMH.......an optional RB26DETT (GTR engine)
>powered Commode........Hmmmm.......even might have considered buying one
>myself.
>
>
>
>Steve Lamb
>Department of Defence, DSTO
>Aeronautical and Maritime Research Laboratory
>506 Lorimer Street
>Fishermans Bend  VIC 3207 Australia
>
>Tel: +61 3 9626 7525
>Fax: +61 3 9626 7089
>
>IZCC #180
>
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 04:21:22 1998
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To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Water injection and racing & more
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>----------
>From: 	Matthew Harding[SMTP:mharding@qonline.com.au]
>How are you involved with these 'thundersaloons' ?
I knew someone who knew someone who worked on the Big block chevvy
powered Opel Manta
>
>do you know what sort of device they are using to trigger the water to
>squirt onto the discs ?
One windscreen washer pump per disk ( 4 )
>
>or was it manual, under the driver's control ?
When the driver felt the brakes begining to fade, he pressed a button on
the steering wheel so as to switch on all the pumps, a few seconds worth
of a squirt did the trick.
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 05:12:42 1998
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Subject: RE: Water injection and racing & more
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Hi all

Matthew asks:

>I need a voltage controlled Pulse width modulator....
>
>I need something that will accept an input voltage between 0 and 5 V...
>and a clock pulse
>
>and depending on the input voltage, output a pulse who's width varies
>linearly...
>
>have i explained this right
>
>so say there's a clock pulse, and the input voltage is 0V, I want a puls of
>2ms to be the output....
>
>if there;s a clock pulse, and the input voltage is 5V, I want a pulse of
>6ms to be output....

Does it *have* to be clocked? For a steady frequency converter, one would
generate a 0-5V sawtooth at that frequency, and compare that to the input
voltage. Then start the output pulse when the sawtooth is at zero, and end
it when the comparator sez that the sawtooth voltage has passed the input
voltage.

If you're clocking it from the crank/cam sensor, you have to generate the
sawtooth somewhat differently. This is almost what the D-jet does. The (cam)
sensor sets a flip-flip-type circuit, which then charges up an RC
combination. But the D-jet is time based, not voltage based.

You could probably build a good one-shot linear sawtooth generator using a
binary counter and a bunch of resistors, depending on the accuracy you need.

If I was at all good with ascii-art I would have drawn a couple of pictures,
if you don't get what I'm saying, ask, and I'll provide the 1000 words
required :-)

W 


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 07:50:35 1998
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From: "Joachim M. Wagner" <1028-156@online.de>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Spark plugs/injectors & specified ignition energy
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 13:44:47 +0300
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Hi,  Danny,
The system itself will give huge possibilities to bring down a/f-ratio,
because it changes and adapts each type of combustion process much better
to the engines' parameters.
The minimum a/f-ratios achievable with a well structured spark energy are
depending on your combustion chamber, spark plug gap, ignition coil, a.s.o.
For bringing the a/f-ratio down, some fine-tuning of spark advance and
electrode gapping will greatly help to use at least some of the impulse
oscillator ignition systems' advantages.

By the way, DID YOU HEAR SOMETHING ABOUT A HIGH-MILEAGE CARB IN THE 30's by
Charles M. Pogue which could do 216 mpg!!

Joachim 


----------
> Von: Danny Barrett <danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au>
> An: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Betreff: Re: Spark plugs/injectors & specified ignition energy
> Datum: Montag, 11. Mai 1998 05:32
> 
> On both my coil, and my distributor, I have the "male" connections
> (although, I intend to get a new ignition controller, and a new coil, and
> the coil may have a "female" connection - These are obviously
non-standard
> parts). I won't buy one just now, but I'll keep your message so I can
> contact you when I'm ready to buy one. What air:fuel ratios can this
thing
> burn down to? I would like to be able to lean out my carburettor (Yes, I
> have an antiquated engine, but I intend to convert it to EFI, when I have
> the money, either this, or put in another engine with EFI already
installed
> on it). Thanks for your help.
> 
> Danny Barrett.
> 
> >Hi, Danny
> >
> >It will surely work well as long as your engine has a separate,
> >exchangeable cable between coil and distributor! With your car this
should
> >be the case. If you can specify the type of connectors used for this
cable
> >on each side, I'll look if I can get a suitable one for you. All the
energy
> >transformation system is included around this cable. And it works
> >independently from primary creation system for energy such as coil or
> >voltage. It influences and works completely on the high-voltage
secondary
> >side of the ignition energy, because that's what makes the engine really
> >run!
> >
> >Joachim 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 08:54:25 1998
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From: Frank F Parker <fparker@umich.edu>
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> me wonder about powder coating.  My electric lo-rider bike frame got 
> a quote of $50 and it was sandblasted.  Thats as much as it cost to 
> build the bike.  I gave it a coat of clear spray paint and moved on.
> Bob McKnight

Bob,
I bought the Eastwood powder gun and it works real well. There are other
sources for powder not as expensive as EW. Bought old oven for $25 for
curing. You can go from rusty part to finished part, all dried and ready
to install in 30 min or so.

Frank Parker
> 


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 09:56:46 1998
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Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 23:56:33 +1000
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
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At 01:18  10/05/98 -0400, you wrote:
>snip
>>
>>http://www.hsv.com.au
>>
>>I think you'll be impressed if you liked what you already saw   :)
>>
>They mention Peter Brock, is that the same one who designed
>the Cobra Daoytona Coupe???.
>Cheers
>Bruce


Peter Brock is an Australian Racing Legend / Icon.....

read a bit of his history on the site, and you'll find out why.


Although I doubt that he is the man you are thinking of   :)


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 10:02:22 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
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At 04:43  10/05/98 EDT, you wrote:
>In a message dated 98-05-10 10:46:38 EDT, you write:
>
><< >
> >I know of several....  do you mean the v6 or v8 ????
> >
> >I have a friend who has a VP commodore rally car....  with heaps of spares
> >
> >let me know what you want >>
>
>Can anyone tell me what displacement the V6 Holdens are?
>TIA
>MIke V


3.8 ltr , whatever that is in ci,  i wouldn't have a clue    :)


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 10:05:42 1998
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From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
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At 09:34  10/05/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I am interested in the V8 manifold.  It looks similar to the Chevy LS1, but
>I am told it has twin throttle bodies.


The standard holden V8 manifold has a single throttle body, in previous
years twin throttle bodies have been used on the Holden Commodore touring
cars, and they were used on a limited amount of production cars...


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 10:09:18 1998
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From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: Re: Holdens a little info
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At 12:09  11/05/98 +1000, you wrote:
>Actually, the normally aspirated 3L is the RB-30E, and the Turbo is the
>RB-30ET. RB-30E has comp. ratio of 9:1, and the RB-30ET has comp. ratio of
>7.5:1, so obviously, they have different heads. Even still, both have
>problems with cracking heads, so you have to be careful not to everheat
>them. Even still, I've heard of a RB-30ET getting 470 HP, and another (with
>a little bit of nitrous) getting 670 HP. Not bad from a 3L engine...
>
>
>>> a nissan 3L also (some one else will know more)
>>
>>The nissan is an RB-30
>>
>>in both normally aspirated, and turbo configurations.....


I have been informed that the heads were the same, although the VL turbo
uses pistons with a deep dish...  but my engine builder may be mistaken...
it wouldn't be the first time   :)


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 10:11:49 1998
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cyberdrive.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Spark plugs/injectors
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The Mercedes direct injection engines injected onto the combustion chamber
during the intake stroke.  This was so there would be sufficient time to
properly mix the air and fuel.  They were definitly not stratified charge.
The injector timing was set to end at 60 degrees after top dead center.  The
injector duration changed with intake vacuum but since they were mechanical,
the duration remained constant in engine degrees as rpm changed.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>


-> There are already some direct petrol engines on the market!!!!
->
-> Mitsubishi was the first one! The have the GDI-Engine ready, it's
-> sold even here in Germany at least for 6 - 7 months now!

Mercedes built direct-injection automobile gasoline engines from the
1950s through the 1970s, and they weren't the first to do it.

Bosch timed/metered rig, what they call sequential nowadays.  Worked
just fine, too.  Of course, these were all mechanical rigs, not
electronic.



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 10:29:24 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Throttle Response Problems
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 10:29:58 -0400
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From: ABTSZ <ABTSZ@aol.com>
Subject: Throttle Response Problems

>I acquired a fuel-injection sytem from an '88 Chevy Berreta 2.8 V6 (730 MAP
>based system), and I put it on my Jag 4.2 straight six, using a manifold
and
>throttlebody from a later fuel injected Jag.  The injectors are 24# Ford
SVO
>(the original jag injectors were 20# low impedence, and not large enough
for
>my modified engine.)
>I eliminated everything from the harness except the MAP, TPS, water temp,
air
>temp, knock sensor, and DIS.  I have the P\N wire grounded.
>The car runs pretty well, EXCEPT for the throttle response.
>Has anybody else had similar problems?  Does anybody have any ideas as to
what
>could be causing this or any suggestions or work arounds?
>TIA,
>Adam
>
Intake tract, not restrictive enough.  You'd be surprized how little
the open area needs to be.  On a really healthy 350 CID SBC,
I wound up building a ring that was 6" in diam. that fit within .75"
of the air filter lid, for it to breath thru when using a low restriction
filter housing.  Bigger is not always better for EFI intake tracts.

Dedicated ground wire to MAP.  Make sure it's not picking up
RFI from a motor, or ignition source.

Tubing to MAP.  Mount the MAP as close as possible to the intake
manifold, with the shortest, smallest cross sectional hose as possible.

Make sure you don't have A+C switched at the MAP.   Make sure ya
got the right sensor, and not a baro..

Make sure fuel pressure changes with throttle opening.

6x24=144, or 288 HP for injector size.  4.2L. .  Think ya might be
too small in injector sizzin.  If ya could find a larger set to borrow,
and then run a lower fuel pressure.

Is the calibration ya got for the ecm the same type tranny.  Manual
tranny might like more TPS Accleration enrichment....

What kinda K/Pa ya got at idle?.  Initial timing?.

Temp of thermostat...

Modify IAT thru resistance, and ctc as PPF mentioned.

Hope that helps
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 11:19:17 1998
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Hi,

Sounds like the fuel enrichment that works off the TPS is not functioning
properly for this application. With the engine running ( if you can get at
it ) move the TPS by hand ( move just the sensor not the throttle ) and see
if the engine stumbles ( should hear the injector tick a little louder,
longer pulse width ), if you do the enrichment circuit is working.  May
have to adjust the TPS off stock specs for this application or change some
bits in the fuel enrichment mapping.

Regards
Gorden




From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 11:26:54 1998
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Please check your mail programs, It is attaching those annoying
WINMAIL.DAT, and other junk files along with the mail.

Sandy

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 11:39:57 1998
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Subject: Re: Spark plugs/injectors & specified ignition energy
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 08:40:42 -0700
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On Mon, 11 May 1998 13:44:47 +0300, "Joachim M. Wagner"
<1028-156@online.de> wrote:

>The system itself will give huge possibilities to bring down a/f-ratio,
>because it changes and adapts each type of combustion process much better
>to the engines' parameters.
>...
>By the way, DID YOU HEAR SOMETHING ABOUT A HIGH-MILEAGE CARB IN THE 30's by
>Charles M. Pogue which could do 216 mpg!!
>
>Joachim 

This group just keeps on amazin me!! This is a stupendous development,
Joachim. You put a passive device in between the IGN system's HV and the
plug, and it "feels each cylinder" and "reshapes the energy" for optimum
efficiency/performance. WOW! I'm impressed.

Sheesh, well, looks like we've made the transition from our own personal
automotive "crack refinery" to the group's own personal "crack pot"! Now
THAT'S progress, dudes. B)

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 12:52:24 1998
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To: DIY_EFI <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 09:53:10 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Fri, 8 May 1998 21:00:11 +0000, bamcknig@postoffice.syspac.com wrote:
>
>5 HP High Pressure Blower   349.95
>New, features a Paxton belt driven centrifugal blower RM87(similar to 
>an automotive supercharger)  5 Hp TEFC two speed motor.
>Specs
>400 cfm   29 inches of water discharge pressure
>3 1/2 inlet    3" outlet

>Surplus Center
>1-800-488-3407  24 hrs a day 7 days a week
>1015 West "O" St.  PO Box 82209 Lincoln Nebraska 68501-2209
>402-474-4055    FAX 402-474-5198

WOW, guys, I just got through researching this, and this same blower is
both a current Paxton product, as well as sells for $2,325 new! They
seem to be IDEAL for a flow bench blower. The downside of course is that
they have 3-phase motors, but at 5HP, you wouldn't wanna have to pay the
cost of a single-phase motor anywhoo. So, I took the plunge and just
ordered one. Excellent find, Bob. I owe ya major brewski's for this one!

The other REAL nice thang about using a single blower like this, is that
the total noise is gonna be WAY less, not to mention not having to build
a bloody plenum/air box to hold the multiple smaller vacuum/blower
motors. NEAT!  All I do is plumb the intake and exhaust lines up to the
stand, for a place to hook them up to the "head adapter" and presto,
flow bencho!

Gar

P.S. Crumbs, now I have to switch gears and look into computer
controllable 3-phase motor speed controllers. (they're a tad more
complicated than simple thyristor AC/DC controllers, but definitely
diy'able). Sheesh, too many technologies, too little time.


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 13:26:35 1998
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From: Michael Kasimirsky <mtk@tmc.astm.cmri.cmu.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 13:27:42 -0400
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Hey Gar,

Can you give me some pointers on books, etc. on how to build a flow
bench.  I have a basic idea of  how they work, but unfortunately I don't
have a bench I can open up and look inside of.  If you could point me to
some references, I'd be most appreciative.  It seems to me that they
should be a relatively simple device, but I'd like something to confirm
my gut feelings.  And considering how much traffic there's been on the
subject lately, I've got a renewed interest in the project.

Also, I can give you some pointers to web pages on building a rotary
phase converter to power your new 3-phase blower if you need it.  On
second thought, I read your P.S. and you need speed control, not just to
make it run.  I can't much help there.  I'm an ME, not an EE.  :-)

Good luck with the project and keep posting results to DIY-EFI.  I know
I for one am very interested in what you come up with.  

Michael Kasimirsky


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 13:39:16 1998
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From: Mike Hoenes <MHoenes@dhr.state.nc.us>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Wanted: 90-92 TPI Eprom binary file
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 13:38:00 -0400
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Wanted: 90-92 TPI Eprom binary file from an L98 preferably an automatic for
use with a 1227730 ECU.
TIA.
Mike
ncs0879@interpath.com

 ----------
 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 13:45:55 1998
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From: Michael Kasimirsky <mtk@tmc.astm.cmri.cmu.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 13:46:58 -0400
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OK everyone, I'm stupid.

Sorry for the spammage to the list.  I zigged when I should have zagged
and ended up sending the previous message to the list instead of
personal mail.  My apologies.

But since I spammed you all anyway, if anyone else has a book or two on
flow benches that they could recommend, I'd like to hear about it.

Thanks and sorry,

Michael Kasimirsky


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 13:48:43 1998
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From: "Joachim M. Wagner" <1028-156@online.de>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Spark plugs/injectors & specified ignition energy
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 19:53:16 +0300
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Thank you very much for the compliments, Gar!
I feel you are one of the first people to whom I ever spoke who has
perfectly realised what' s going on with that ignition system!
It' s an honour for me to talk with you, Gar.
Joachim 

----------
> Von: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com
> An: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Betreff: Re: Spark plugs/injectors & specified ignition energy
> Datum: Montag, 11. Mai 1998 18:40
> 
> On Mon, 11 May 1998 13:44:47 +0300, "Joachim M. Wagner"
> <1028-156@online.de> wrote:
> 
> >The system itself will give huge possibilities to bring down a/f-ratio,
> >because it changes and adapts each type of combustion process much
better
> >to the engines' parameters.
> >...
> >By the way, DID YOU HEAR SOMETHING ABOUT A HIGH-MILEAGE CARB IN THE 30's
by
> >Charles M. Pogue which could do 216 mpg!!
> >
> >Joachim 
> 
> This group just keeps on amazin me!! This is a stupendous development,
> Joachim. You put a passive device in between the IGN system's HV and the
> plug, and it "feels each cylinder" and "reshapes the energy" for optimum
> efficiency/performance. WOW! I'm impressed.
> 
> Sheesh, well, looks like we've made the transition from our own personal
> automotive "crack refinery" to the group's own personal "crack pot"! Now
> THAT'S progress, dudes. B)
> 
> Gar
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 13:56:30 1998
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From: "H. J. Zivnak" <bztruck@email.msn.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Ford MAF
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 10:54:22 -0700
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According to Chas. Probst (Ford Fuel Injection and EEC) the vane air flow in
the 1.8L is different from any other Ford VAF sensor in that the output
voltage drops as air flow increases. Voltage should be 4 volts closed, aprox
0.5 volts open. He says this is similar to the early L-Jetronic. The Ford
MAF (up to 93 at least) should output 0.2v idling to 1.5v max, engine
running, or 0.7v key on engine off. Also, the Ford MAF runs on a hot wire
temperature differential of 200 C while the Bosch differential is 100 C and
the hotwire is in a bypass not centrally mounted like the Bosch.
I hope this helps. Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: ABTSZ <ABTSZ@aol.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, May 10, 1998 9:32 PM
Subject: Re: Ford MAF


>In a message dated 98-05-04 21:03:14 EDT, you write:
>
><< Attn: Ford Guys
>
>         A friend with a 1994 Escort GT, 1.8 twin cam is looking to do some
> minor modifications.  The MAF is the flapper door style.  It has a 7 pin
> connector.  We pulled the other style MAF off a plain Escort.  It has a 4
> pin connector labled A B C D.  Is there a way to incorporate this less
> restictive MAF into the twin cam Escort setup?  I think they both have the
> same output, just concerned about the scaling.
>         Anyother tips/advice is appreciated.
>
> Paul Tholey
>  >>
>
>Here is a sight with alot of info on Bosch AirFlowMeters (AFMs) I think
they
>are identical to the ones Ford uses.  Actually, I think the Ford units even
>use Bosch parts #s.
>
>http://www.students.tut.fi/~k124775/
>
>The problem is, I can't get thru to the sight at the moment.  I don't know
if
>they are haveing temporary server problems, or are defunct.  But it WAS a
>great sight.
>They had a chart showing the voltage to Air Flow ratio (what you are
looking
>for) although it would be different in different sized AFMs.  The reason
for
>the extra pins (i think) would be the Air temp which is used as a seperate
>factor in the calculation when using AFMs, whereas with MAFs, this is built
in
>to the 0-5v output.  I am pretty sure AFMs also put out 0-5v.
>Anyway, that's all I know (or think I know!)
>
>Adam




From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 14:05:26 1998
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Subject: Re: Spark plugs/injectors & specified ignition energy
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 14:08:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <35771a72.66260656@santaclara01.pop.internex.net> from "garfield@pilgrimhouse.com" at May 11, 98 08:40:42 am
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> 
> >The system itself will give huge possibilities to bring down a/f-ratio,
> >because it changes and adapts each type of combustion process much better
> >to the engines' parameters.
> >...
> >By the way, DID YOU HEAR SOMETHING ABOUT A HIGH-MILEAGE CARB IN THE 30's by
> >Charles M. Pogue which could do 216 mpg!!
> 
> This group just keeps on amazin me!! This is a stupendous development,
> Joachim. You put a passive device in between the IGN system's HV and the
> plug, and it "feels each cylinder" and "reshapes the energy" for optimum
> efficiency/performance. WOW! I'm impressed.

you forgot to mention that it reduces wear on cold starts
enables you run hundereds of miles with no oil
and hides scratches in the paint as well
as warding off alien abduction and evil lawn weeds
all without the use of saturated fats, or artificial flavours

void where prohibited by law, all participants must be of legal age
a skill testing question must be answered in the time alloted

> Sheesh, well, looks like we've made the transition from our own personal
> automotive "crack refinery" to the group's own personal "crack pot"! Now
> THAT'S progress, dudes. B)

somebody get the lithium

Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 15:04:17 1998
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Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 15:06:50 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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Subject: Re: Spark plugs/injectors & specified ignition energy
References: <m0yYr6T-000NnXC@mail.online.de> <35771a72.66260656@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
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garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:
> 
> On Mon, 11 May 1998 13:44:47 +0300, "Joachim M. Wagner"
> <1028-156@online.de> wrote:
> 
> >The system itself will give huge possibilities to bring down a/f-ratio,
> >because it changes and adapts each type of combustion process much better
> >to the engines' parameters.
> >...
> >By the way, DID YOU HEAR SOMETHING ABOUT A HIGH-MILEAGE CARB IN THE 30's by
> >Charles M. Pogue which could do 216 mpg!!
> >
> >Joachim
> 
> This group just keeps on amazin me!! This is a stupendous development,
> Joachim. You put a passive device in between the IGN system's HV and the
> plug, and it "feels each cylinder" and "reshapes the energy" for optimum
> efficiency/performance. WOW! I'm impressed.
> 
> Sheesh, well, looks like we've made the transition from our own personal
> automotive "crack refinery" to the group's own personal "crack pot"! Now
> THAT'S progress, dudes. B)
> 
> Gar

Gar, they've been selling these doo-dads at county fairs since about
1935. They have a spark gap in them that supposedly increases the
voltage of the spark - that's one model. The other I have seen has an
autotransformer in it - just like an ignition coil but a lower ratio,
that is supposed to boost spark output,  and a third one that supposedly
gives a "shower of sparks". Don't know how that one is supposed to work,
but I also saw one that used a "model T type" coil to give multiple
sparks. Thought they were finally history, but it appears they just went
to Europe!
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 15:06:48 1998
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Sandy wrote:
> 
> Please check your mail programs, It is attaching those annoying
> WINMAIL.DAT, and other junk files along with the mail.
> 
> Sandy
Who? Me? Impossible!!!
send  to responsible party, not the group please.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 15:14:23 1998
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From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Wet Brakes
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 7@crianlarich.indigo-avs.com>
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>When the driver felt the brakes begining to fade, he pressed a button on
>the steering wheel so as to switch on all the pumps, a few seconds worth
>of a squirt did the trick.

Honestly, I don't think squirting water onto the brake rotors is the ideal
solution.  Someone mentioned this before... most tracks would bark loudly
(if they even allow you to run) if you drop fluids on the track.  Its a
nice way to make a big pile-up.

Also keep in mind, spraying glowing red-hot rotors with water is a good way
to fracture them.

Here are some other ways to cool brakes:

1. Thicker rotors.  More metal, more surface area to stop the car as well
as dissipate the heat.
2. Vented rotors (of course).
3. Air ducts, most race cars have duct work all over the place.
4. Caliper heat sinks, or larger calipers.
5. Brake line coolers.  I saw one gent who had heat sink fins on the brake
lines near the calipers.  I can't say for sure if that really helped or
not, but he claimed it did.  This was in a dirt-style circle track car.
6. Change wheel airflow. Its fairly easy to make or purchase wheel covers
that have fins, which would suck in or discharge air while the wheel
rotates, like a fan.  Its not as effective as a brake-oriented air-scoop,
but its another solution.

Hope I helped.  For my mid-engine vehicle, I will be diverting some of the
air coming into the radiator ducts underneath the angle mounted radiator to
the rear brakes.  The front will be taking air through the front fairing,
like every other race car floating around.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 15:32:05 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 12:30:59 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Mon, 11 May 1998 13:27:42 -0400, Michael Kasimirsky
<mtk@tmc.astm.cmri.cmu.edu> wrote:

>Can you give me some pointers on books, etc. on how to build a flow
>bench.  I have a basic idea of  how they work, but unfortunately I don't
>have a bench I can open up and look inside of.  If you could point me to
>some references, I'd be most appreciative.  It seems to me that they
>should be a relatively simple device, but I'd like something to confirm
>my gut feelings.

Hey Michael.

I can just pass along to you the references I gathered from this very
list, the last time there was a flurry of interest in FB's.

First, there's a section in a really excellent book on porting, by the
famed autolizard David Vizard, "How to Build and Modify Chevrolet
Small-Block V-8 Cylinder Heads". ISBN 0-87938-547-2 He has a diagram of
a diy FB, but it's not a set of plans, per se. The book's a must-have,
tho.

Then, a pretty good "alternate perspective" book on same subject, by
John Dalton, "Practical Gas Flow". ISBN 1-899870-08-3

Also, a magazine article by Stephen Bogdan, "Go with the Flow: Build
your own Flow Bench...", found in Issue #7 of Mopar Tech Special, a
semi-annual magazine published by the editors of the monthly mag Mopar
Action, a rag of Harris Publications, NY, NY (212) 462-9543, if you
can't find it on the stands. (and no, I won't mail you a copy; just in
case anyone was thinkin of askin B)

Finally, there's some things to be learned about manometers, if you're
gonna go the conventional style FB, that can be found at:
	http://www.dwyer-inst.com/
You should order their catalog. Some good info and explanations in
there.

And last but not least, order an Operator's Manual for the SF-300/600
Flowbench, from SuperFlow:
	http://www.superflow.com
In the back is a wiring diagram that shows how the motors are stacked
and how many are used for which model.

BTW, the way I learned about Quadrant Scientific, is that in David
Vizard's book, he mentions a "flow bench computer program" available
from them for computing orifice sizes, flows from pressure drops across
said orifices, etc. So I called them explaining my interest, and got a
huge earfull from the Pres. on where QuadSci's gone since the days of
that book being written ('90). Do check these guys out:
	http://www.quadsci.com
and root about until you find their flow bench listing; it's kinda a
quirky web page design, but be persistent and you'll find your way
inside. Here's the trap door incase you get too frustrated.
	http://www.quadsci.com/products/engair/flwbnch/flwbnch.htm
but a look around the whole site is worthwhile, methinks.

Their benchtop 200cfm FB is VERY affordably priced, BTW, cuz it hooks to
a normal PC for all it's smarts and controls; so all you buy is the
blower box, with it's integral pressure & flow sensors. The motors are
controlled by the PC directly.

Thas all the poop I gots, dudes. That's the whole dump.

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 15:48:09 1998
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Anyone have a good phone number for electromotive,
I am olling to get a catalog.

paul timmerman

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 15:55:09 1998
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Hi Mike

Send me a another email later tonite so when I get home
I can send ya the bin file if you haven't already got it.

:peter

> Wanted: 90-92 TPI Eprom binary file from an L98 preferably an automatic for
> use with a 1227730 ECU.
> TIA.
> Mike
> ncs0879@interpath.com
> 
>  ----------
>  
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 16:13:31 1998
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 06:19:08 +1000
From: Justin Albury <jalbury@tpgi.com.au>
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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the holden v8 intake will NOT fit a chev!!
sorry to dampin your sprits guys but it will only fit holden efi heads
and thats it!

justin

Eileen Tholey wrote:
> 
> I am interested in the V8 manifold.  It looks similar to the Chevy LS1, but
> I am told it has twin throttle bodies.
> 
> TIA
> 
> Paul
> At 11:10 PM 5/10/98 +1000, you wrote:
> >At 05:56  6/05/98 -0400, you wrote:
> >>Where the h*ll can I get that K*ck *ss TPI intake in the Holdens?  I am
> >serious!
> >>
> >>Paul Tholey
> >
> >
> >I know of several....  do you mean the v6 or v8 ????
> >
> >I have a friend who has a VP commodore rally car....  with heaps of spares
> >
> >let me know what you want
> >
> >
> >

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 16:27:23 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Electromotive Catalog ?
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 13:28:07 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Mon, 11 May 1998 12:52:14 -0700, ptimmerm@mashtun.JPL.NASA.GOV wrote:

>Anyone have a good phone number for electromotive,
>I am olling to get a catalog.

Their web page has all that and more!

	http://www.electromotive-inc.com



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 16:30:47 1998
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Hi Garfield

Correction on part # MPX5010, not MPXL5010. Same sensor, different
package. You might also be interested in:

MPX5006  0 -.87 psi, 3% accuracy   

This could be useful for measuring dP across a sharp-edged orifice, 
which I think somebody on the list is doing. Also Pitot tube sensor 
apps.
Thanks for the motor controller stuff - Think I'm gonna take a shot 
at it. Roger the tedium of flow testing! I do a lot of it. Am very
interested in automating these things.

> If any of yous guys can find a MAF sensor that's
> available CALIBRATED, and within +-1%FS accuracy over say 300cfm 

Concur with your observation that repeatability is the main thing with
flow testing, so I'm missing something here. Linearity perhaps?
Please elaborate.

Jack


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 16:42:57 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Spark plugs/injectors & specified ignition energy
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 13:43:42 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Mon, 11 May 1998 15:06:50 -0400, Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
wrote:

>Gar, they've been selling these doo-dads at county fairs since about
>1935. 

Yup, and tickets to the freak show, as well. But just to show I'm really
a scientist at heart, I DO leave open the possibility of miracles
occuring; look at Viagra and Rogain! Hee. Next they'll be calling an
antiprostate-enlargement drug "Niagra". Arh arh arroooo!

>I also saw one that used a "model T type" coil to give multiple
>sparks. Thought they were finally history, but it appears they just went
>to Europe!

Yeah, ya know what they say; what goes around comes around. And around,
and around. Somethin bout a sucker bein born every minute. Hey, if that
was true when it was coined, think of how much higher the birth rate has
gone up since then! What an "opportunity".

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 16:43:08 1998
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Clare Snyder wrote:

> Who? Me? Impossible!!!
> send  to responsible party, not the group please.

Sending it to the group gets as many offenders as possible... ;-)

While on the subject, could we all watch the quoting?  There are some who 
quote an entire lenghthy message, and then include a couple line 
response.  We all saw the original post, please be considerate and edit 
the response.  (This also makes the archives much longer and much harder 
to read.)

Also, please try to limit your sig files.  3 or 4 lines is plenty.

Thanks, Scot Sealander   Sealand@clarityconnect.com

>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 16:53:42 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Electromotive Catalog ?
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 16:54:17 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: ptimmerm@mashtun.JPL.NASA.GOV <ptimmerm@mashtun.JPL.NASA.GOV>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Monday, May 11, 1998 4:34 PM
Subject: Electromotive Catalog ?


>
>Anyone have a good phone number for electromotive,
>I am olling to get a catalog.
>
>paul timmerman
>

Try (703) 331-0100

http://www.electromotive-inc.com

Cheerio
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 16:53:41 1998
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Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 14:51:49 -0600
From: Brian Hartman <brianhartman@sprintmail.com>
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I have the Tech manual for their products and the phone number on it
says,

703-331-0100
703-331-0161  Fax

Hope it helps,

Brian Hartman

ptimmerm@mashtun.JPL.NASA.GOV wrote:

> Anyone have a good phone number for electromotive,
> I am olling to get a catalog.
>
> paul timmerman




From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 16:59:03 1998
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Heyu Paul

>Anyone have a good phone number for electromotive,
>I am olling to get a catalog.


Try http://www.electromotive-inc.com/

or

Electromotive, Inc.
9131 Centreville Rd.
Manassas, Virginia 20110
Phone: 703-331-0100 Fax: 703-331-0161


Flyin and Racin Rotary Beasts, 
Carlos "Yo Quiero 20B" Iglesias 
RX-7 Club of Florida 
http://julio.simplenet.com


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 16:59:20 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 16:59:48 -0400
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From: Justin Albury <jalbury@tpgi.com.au>
Date: Monday, May 11, 1998 4:43 PM
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.


>the holden v8 intake will NOT fit a chev!!
>sorry to dampin your sprits guys but it will only fit holden efi heads
>and thats it!
>
>justin
>
>Eileen Tholey wrote:
>> 
Eileen is a guy?.
Hmm, 
twice heart broken in less than a moment.
Drat
Bruce    I'll just pull my Cone Shaped Hat further down, 
              and slink back to lurking


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Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

Heyu Paul

>Anyone have a good phone number for electromotive,
>I am olling to get a catalog.


Try http://www.electromotive-inc.com/

or

Electromotive, Inc.
9131 Centreville Rd.
Manassas, Virginia 20110
Phone: 703-331-0100 Fax: 703-331-0161


Flyin and Racin Rotary Beasts, 
Carlos "Yo Quiero 20B" Iglesias 
RX-7 Club of Florida 
http://julio.simplenet.com


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 17:19:05 1998
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Original-From: Ken Kelly <pace10!lucent.com!kenkelly>
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Subject: Re: Spark plugs/injectors & specified ignition energy
References: <m0yYr6T-000NnXC@mail.online.de> <35771a72.66260656@santaclara01.pop.internex.net> <35574C4A.6DAB@huron.net>
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Sorry to say they didn't just go to Europe. They were
demonstrated at the Spring 98 Englishtown, NJ & Carlisle, PA
Automotive Flea markets. I have been going to the Spring &
Fall shows for the last 5 years and there is always one car
or pickup truck set up with a Spark enhanser. I think its
the Autotransformer type. They even manage to sell them to
this supposedly automotive oriented crowd!!!

		Ken 

Clare Snyder wrote:
> 
> garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:
> >
> > On Mon, 11 May 1998 13:44:47 +0300, "Joachim M. Wagner"
> > <1028-156@online.de> wrote:
> >
> > >The system itself will give huge possibilities to bring down a/f-ratio,
> > >because it changes and adapts each type of combustion process much better
> > >to the engines' parameters.
> > >...
> > >By the way, DID YOU HEAR SOMETHING ABOUT A HIGH-MILEAGE CARB IN THE 30's by
> > >Charles M. Pogue which could do 216 mpg!!
> > >
> > >Joachim
> >
> > This group just keeps on amazin me!! This is a stupendous development,
> > Joachim. You put a passive device in between the IGN system's HV and the
> > plug, and it "feels each cylinder" and "reshapes the energy" for optimum
> > efficiency/performance. WOW! I'm impressed.
> >
> > Sheesh, well, looks like we've made the transition from our own personal
> > automotive "crack refinery" to the group's own personal "crack pot"! Now
> > THAT'S progress, dudes. B)
> >
> > Gar
> 
> Gar, they've been selling these doo-dads at county fairs since about
> 1935. They have a spark gap in them that supposedly increases the
> voltage of the spark - that's one model. The other I have seen has an
> autotransformer in it - just like an ignition coil but a lower ratio,
> that is supposed to boost spark output,  and a third one that supposedly
> gives a "shower of sparks". Don't know how that one is supposed to work,
> but I also saw one that used a "model T type" coil to give multiple
> sparks. Thought they were finally history, but it appears they just went
> to Europe!
> --
>                                _/\_
>                        --|-----([])-----|--
>                          S    0/  \0    B
>          Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
>                   E-Mail service is back to normal
>                   To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
>                     Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
>                                 OR
> Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
> spammers!!!
> It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
> Turkeys!!!


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 17:21:00 1998
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Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 17:24:57 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Eileen Tholey <emt122@psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
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The holden heads do not have a siamesed ports like the SBC.  They look like
a BBC.  But how similar are these Holden V8s to the new small block II?  No
need to go into great lenght, just curious.

Paul Tholey

At 06:19 AM 5/12/98 +1000, you wrote:
>the holden v8 intake will NOT fit a chev!!
>sorry to dampin your sprits guys but it will only fit holden efi heads
>and thats it!
>
>justin
>
>Eileen Tholey wrote:
>> 
>> I am interested in the V8 manifold.  It looks similar to the Chevy LS1, but
>> I am told it has twin throttle bodies.
>> 
>> TIA
>> 
>> Paul
>> At 11:10 PM 5/10/98 +1000, you wrote:
>> >At 05:56  6/05/98 -0400, you wrote:
>> >>Where the h*ll can I get that K*ck *ss TPI intake in the Holdens?  I am
>> >serious!
>> >>
>> >>Paul Tholey
>> >
>> >
>> >I know of several....  do you mean the v6 or v8 ????
>> >
>> >I have a friend who has a VP commodore rally car....  with heaps of spares
>> >
>> >let me know what you want
>> >
>> >
>> >
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 17:28:05 1998
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From: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: List Stuff (Was Whattza Holden?)
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 14:28:54 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
Message-ID: <35916d52.87476515@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
References: <01bd7a91$20423b60$4c198fd1@nacelp> <199805111526.IAA10781@mail.wgn.net> <35574C8F.5269@huron.net> <35578CF4.3BB5@clarityconnect.com>
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On Mon, 11 May 1998 16:42:44 -0700, Scot Sealander
<Sealand@clarityconnect.com> wrote:

>Clare Snyder wrote:
>
>> Who? Me? Impossible!!!
>> send  to responsible party, not the group please.
>
>Sending it to the group gets as many offenders as possible... ;-)
>
>While on the subject, could we all watch the quoting?  There are some who 
>quote an entire lenghthy message, and then include a couple line 
>response.  We all saw the original post, please be considerate and edit 
>the response.  (This also makes the archives much longer and much harder 
>to read.)

Here, here. Add my squeeky voice to those who agree. PRUNE, or the
garden of words becomes overgrown.

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 17:40:27 1998
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To: <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Spark plugs/injectors
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DFI works, but it is a pain to package.  Good combustion chambers with
four valves per cylinder plus plugs plus injector is really hard to
do.  Mitsubishi did it, but they still have a throttle.  The only way
to get rid of those pumping losses (today) is to do compression
ignition (i.e. diesel).  Actually, there are some 'diesels' running in
the lab that run on methanol, gasoline, propane, etc.
---------------------- Forwarded by John R Bucknell/JTE/Chrysler on
05/11/98 09:57 AM ---------------------------

        owner-diy_efi @ efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
        05/09/98 05:30 AM
Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu @ SMTP
To: DIY_EFI @ efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu @ SMTP
cc:
Subject: Spark plugs/injectors

Does anyone know if it is possible to get spark plugs with fuel
injectors
built in? I have seen one of the list members write about keeping the
intake
pressure as close to atmospherice as possible (and varying the
power/speed
by the amount of fuel pumped in). There is one problem with this - It is
very hard to get a reliable combustion from mixtures leaner than 18:1.
There
is a solution to this problem (from what my Thermodynamics textbook
says).
This is by charging the cylinder with a non-uniform mixture. ie: around
14.5:1 around the spark plug, and virtually nothiing elsewhere (where
required). This, it has called "stratified charging." Apparently,
engines
have been successfully developed and run in the laboratory, but not in
production cars (or at least, we've not seen them...). The book was
first
published in 1957, with the third edition (the edition that I have)
published in 1980. I think it is fair to say that our EFI technology has
advanced quite a long way since 1980. So... Why can't we build direct
injection petrol engines that vary the mixture instead of the amount of
air
going in? Since we now have sequential fuel injection, knock sensors
(even
the Trionic one that we seem to hear so much about on this list - go
for it
gentlemen...), etc... Why can't we make a direct injection petrol engine
that uses a combined spark plug/fuel injector, so that we can use
stratified
charging to our advantage? I reallise that there are problems associated
with NOx gases produced in excess when lean mixtures are used, but isn't
that what the catalytic converter is for? Also, wouldn't it be worth
just a
little bit more NOx in the air (yes, I know NO2 is a poison), for the
sake
of using far less fuel, and having less benzine rings (which can cause
cancer) floating around in the air??? Or is there something I've missed?

Danny Barrett.


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 18:04:50 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Wet Brakes
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 08:07:42 +1000
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Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

Hi All,

----------
From: 	Frederic Breitwieser
Sent: 	Tuesday, May 12, 1998 8:18 AM
To: 	diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Wet Brakes

>When the driver felt the brakes begining to fade, he pressed a button on
>the steering wheel so as to switch on all the pumps, a few seconds worth
>of a squirt did the trick.

Honestly, I don't think squirting water onto the brake rotors is the ideal
solution.  Someone mentioned this before... most tracks would bark loudly
(if they even allow you to run) if you drop fluids on the track.  Its a
nice way to make a big pile-up.

Also keep in mind, spraying glowing red-hot rotors with water is a good way
to fracture them.

The local 5Litre touring cars use water sprayed on the discs to cool the 
brakes. Massive discs and 6 pot calipers - you need that for 300kmh :-)

Peter
(Finally worked out how to stop winmail.dat with Bill's Pot-O-S#!t Emailer 
prog)


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From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 18:07:42 1998
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To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: EM TEC-II for VATN?
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Thanks to all for the quick info on electromotive.
I am purchASING A car with a Tec-II and hope to
start messing with it a bit, like adding a race
gas program, checking performance at altitude up
to 8000 ft. and looking into switching the VATN
controller from a boost/spring type to a electronic
controlled version.

Anyone know how the general purpose output works?
Is is a pulse width modulation scheme?  Can I 
use it to control my VATN turbo?  Anyone been down
this road before?

paul timmerman



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 18:18:15 1998
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Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 18:22:15 -0400
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Eileen Tholey <emt122@psu.edu>
Subject: Re: Grand National engine question
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The two computers I have that may work in you situation are the 16132792 or
the 1227727.  I think they are wothe $50 each if that is your next question.
If I can be of oany other help, let me know.

Paul Tholey

At 09:53 AM 5/10/98 -0500, you wrote:
>I think that I can get a buick grand national engine <3.8 turbo> for
>great price. The only problem is that the computer and wiring harness
>have been trashed. The original car now has 350 chevy with a holley 4
>bbl. Does anyone have a suitable computer and harness available? Any
>sugestions?
>dave balfour
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 18:18:35 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Pressure Sensors & ION Eyes
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 15:19:24 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Mon, 11 May 1998 13:15:49 -0700, goflo@pacbell.net wrote:

>MPX5006  0 -.87 psi, 3% accuracy

Yeah, I saw that one too. Might do to have two of them, 5010 & 5006, to
switch between, depending on where in the larger range of pressure, you
were operating in. At the cost of these gizmo's, it's not wasteful to
use BOTH together, one at the high end, the other at the low.

Since it's common for eXperimenters like ourselves to work around either
10, 15, 20, or 25" H2O, having both sensors available seems like a nice
fit of ranges.

>This could be useful for measuring dP across a sharp-edged orifice, 
>which I think somebody on the list is doing. Also Pitot tube sensor 
>apps.

Yeah, I think you're right. I thot SteveG (or someone!; I'm losing it
here), was gonna use these instead of fluid manometers in their
otherwise std orifice-based FB.

That's a good point about Pitot tube apps too, I hadn't actually
considered that until you mentioned it. Hmm, airspeed indicators!!
Angle-of-attack indicators. Lot's of possibilities.

>Thanks for the motor controller stuff - Think I'm gonna take a shot 
>at it. Roger the tedium of flow testing! I do a lot of it. Am very
>interested in automating these things.

Lemme know if I can help on your "thyristor" controller end. I'm gonna
be driftin over to speed-controlling this whopper 3-phase AC Paxton
blower I just ordered, but I'd like to help out to cover BOTH bases, if
you need a hand. I'm at your service in the cause of FB science. B)

>> If any of yous guys can find a MAF sensor that's
>> available CALIBRATED, and within +-1%FS accuracy over say 300cfm 
>
>Concur with your observation that repeatability is the main thing with
>flow testing, so I'm missing something here. Linearity perhaps?
>Please elaborate.

Nah, yer not missin a thang; the ONLY reason I was interested in
ACCURACY rather than simple repeatability, is that sometimes you're
dealing with devices like manifolds, carbs, etc. that are supposedly
rated for a particular cfm & water-drop. And so I'd like to be able to
check these ratings out, as well as maybe spec to precise numbers my own
stuff, so they can be compared to OTHER people's results. Repeatability
is fine as long as you're working on that very same bench all the time,
but if you wanna exchange stuff with other people, and compare notes,
you also need ACCURACY. I agree, it's right to consider it a
second-order effect, but it's a nice "second".

But to be honest, I'd think that still the 3-5% accuracy of these
present devices is adequate for my needs, so I'll settle for 3-5% if I
can't get 1% at the moment. Just wait a year or so, and they'll be at 1%
accuracy anyway! B)

Cheers,
Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 18:31:42 1998
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 00:45:21 +0200
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Please, 

I need information about the OBD2 Protocol for european Cars.

Someone Knows were can I find Technical Informations ?

Any Information would be appreciated. Thanks.

Fabrizio Palumbo.


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 18:40:28 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Whattza Holden?.
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 08:41:06 +1000
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Hi all,

For info on the Commodore and hence engines (inc the 304 and the V8 3800)

http://www.uq.net.au/~zznweber/commodore.html

You may need to go deon a few pages but there's a lot of good info and pics.

Peter

----------
From: 	Eileen Tholey
Sent: 	Tuesday, May 12, 1998 7:24 AM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: Whattza Holden?.

The holden heads do not have a siamesed ports like the SBC.  They look like
a BBC.  But how similar are these Holden V8s to the new small block II?  No
need to go into great lenght, just curious.

Paul Tholey

At 06:19 AM 5/12/98 +1000, you wrote:
>the holden v8 intake will NOT fit a chev!!
>sorry to dampin your sprits guys but it will only fit holden efi heads
>and thats it!
>
>justin

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 19:07:15 1998
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Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 19:08:45 -0400
From: Joseph Norman <jsnorman@tdo.infi.net>
Organization: InfiNet
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> 
 
> Honestly, I don't think squirting water onto the brake rotors is the ideal
> solution.  Someone mentioned this before... most tracks would bark loudly
> (if they even allow you to run) if you drop fluids on the track.  Its a
> nice way to make a big pile-up.
> 
> Also keep in mind, spraying glowing red-hot rotors with water is a good way
> to fracture them.
> 

Hi, I'm normally a lurker here (I'm a mechanical engineer-just trying to
pick up some info on electronics, etc.), but I have to comment on water
cooling the brakes.  Last year I worked as a mechanic for Tom Gloy
Racing on Dorsey Schroeder's SCCA Trans-Am Mustang.  We used water
brakes at all of the heavy braking tracks.  There was an aluminum tank
mounted at the rear (about 4 gallon capacity) with a small pump attached
to it.  tubes carried the water to four nozzles, two in each of the
hoses for the front brake ducts- they were about 24" before the rotor. 
There was a switch on the dash which we would remind the driver to turn
on on the pace lap.  They would stay on the entire race, except for
during full course yellows.  The 4 gallons would last the entire hour or
so of the race - it was a pretty fine mist.  I wouldn't dump a lot of
water on the brakes after they have gotten really hot  - you could get
thermal shock and break the rotors - but a steady mist sure worked for
us.

Later,
Joe Norman

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 19:09:35 1998
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 09:09:25 +1000 (GMT+1000)
From: Christian David Hack <hack@uq.net.au>
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Holdens a little info
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I own a VL turbo with the RB30ET engine and auto trans.

As far as I know, the heads are the same except that the turbo head has
a red crinkle finish to distinguish it from the NA engine.

The pistons are definitely different. Essentially, these are the
differences: 

   turbo (about 6-7psi) and new exhaust manifold 
   lower comp pistons 
   bigger oil pump 
   slightly different intake runners 
   addition of a knock sensor (which is known to cause problems)
   slightly different engine-management system 
   upgraded gearboxes and diffs (both manual and auto)
   larger brakes
   larger exhaust (2 1/2 instead of 2 1/4)
   and of course that crinkle red covered head.

Unfortunately no intercooler. After I have hacked the engine management to
bits I will be installing either and intercooler or water injection.

I asked a while ago if any has any info on the engine management and I
didn't really receive any replies. I know have a complete disassembly of
the code and using some of the very ordinary graphs in the service manual
I have been able to find some of the 2D and 3D tables in the EPROM. 

I have a working idea/schematic on a snooper to watch the ECCS while the
engine is running which I should be able to build in the next few weeks. 

I'll ask again if anyone has any info or know where I can get info on the
ECCS. Nissans groovy name is Electronic Combustion Control System I think.




From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 19:48:25 1998
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From: AJLegere <AJLegere@aol.com>
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Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 19:46:01 EDT
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Mime-Version: 1.0
Subject: Re: Engine Simulation SW - shareware
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Try this Shareware Torbo calculator I found on a UK turbo manufacturer site.
It's not the best but does offer some estimating capabilities.

AJL

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From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 20:03:18 1998
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From: "David" <david@gardener.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: EFI Books
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 18:16:03 -0500
X-Priority: 3
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Reply-To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

I just saw a new FI book at the St. Louis Library.

It is by Ben Watson.  It is titled How to Tune and Modify CHEVROLET Fuel
Injection.  It was published very recently by Motorbooks.

It appears to be a pretty good book.  I scanned in the table of contents.
Hope this helps.


CONTENTS
Introduction -- The Performance Revival
Chapter One -- The History of Fuel Injection
Chapter Two --The Basics of Electronics
Chapter Three Tools and Equipment
Chapter Four -- How Chevrolet Fuel Injection Works
Chapter Five -- Automotive Emissions And The Law
Chapter Six -- Fuel Injection Tuning
Chapter Seven -- Fuel Injection Troubleshooting
Chapter Eight -- Onboard Diagnostic Trouble Codes
Chapter Nine -- How To Use Fault Codes
Chapter Ten -- Troubleshooting Fault Codes
Chapter Eleven  -- Fuel Injection Performance Modifications
Chapter Twelve -- Engine Modifications and The Law
Chapter Thirteen -- Aftermarket Fuel-Injection Systems
Chapter Fourteen -- On-Board Diagnostic System Generation 2
Appendix
Sources
Index

David

-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Taylor-iii <chtaylor@eng.usf.edu>
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Sunday, May 10, 1998 11:21 PM
Subject: EFI Books


|Wondering if anyone could refer me to some good books on EFI?
|Lookinf for books for the beginner up to design.  Looking for books that
|explain how different types of fuel injection work and how to control
|them.  Any titles would be appreciated. Thanks.
|
|Chuck Taylor
|chtaylor@eng.usf.edu
|*******************************'84 Kawasaki 900 Ninja
|* University of South Florida *   7.21 @ 96.37  1/8th mile
|* Mechanical Engineering Dept *  11.37 @ 117.27 1/4 mile
|*  (7 months and counting)    *'80 Kawasaki Z1-R 1000
|*******************************  Restoration project
|
|






From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 20:23:09 1998
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The Ben Watson one is great, try this one as well:

http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/accessories/manuals.html

AJL

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 21:21:11 1998
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Michael Kasimirsky wrote:
> But since I spammed you all anyway, if anyone else has a book or two on
> flow benches that they could recommend, I'd like to hear about it.
> Thanks and sorry,

What spam? Not well-structured enough.

SuperFlow used to sell the manuals for their benches separately. When
I was considering buying a SF-600 I bought the manual first - It's
very interesting. About $20 US some years ago.
"How To Build & Modify Chevrolet Small-Block Cylinder Heads" by David
Vizard (amazon.com, $16) is good stuff about chevys and flow benches.
And well-structured.

Jack


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 21:33:04 1998
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Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 07:34:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: Whattza Holden?.
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Organization: The Courts of Chaos * Jacksonville AR USA * 501-985-0059
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-> actually the Holden 308 V8 has some very close similarities to the
-> small block chev...  the 350 Chev crankshaft is used in the 308 to
-> stroke it to around 383 ci.
->
-> do you think a Chev crank would bolt into an aussie designed engine ?
-> hmmm

 Actually, yes.  The Chevy crank has also been swapped into the Rover
V8, though it requires considerable machine work.  The Toyota 22R crank
is sometimes used in the 2300 Ford.

 Other than being a pushrod 90 degree V motor, the Holden isn't much
like a Chevy at all.
                                              

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 21:37:49 1998
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Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 21:41:03 -0700
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: RE: Wet Brakes
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>Peter
>(Finally worked out how to stop winmail.dat with Bill's Pot-O-S#!t Emailer 
>prog)

>M& ```$E032Y-:6-R;W-O9G0@36%I;"Y.;W1E`#$(`0V ! `"`````@`"``$$

I see that Peter. :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 21:42:23 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Wet Brakes
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 21:42:56 -0400
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From: Joseph Norman <jsnorman@tdo.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Wet Brakes


  Last year I worked as a mechanic for Tom Gloy
>Racing on Dorsey Schroeder's SCCA Trans-Am Mustang.  

Glad to have ya lurking here, feel free to inform us of any of
their winning ways, hehe.
Cheers
Bruce    Greatest form of flattery is when people slide on their
              backs to see under your car....   AND that means 
              taking your Cone Shaped Hat off,


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 21:53:51 1998
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Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 21:55:58 -0400
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Peter Jaramaz wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> ----------
> From:   Frederic Breitwieser
> Sent:   Tuesday, May 12, 1998 8:18 AM
> To:     diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject:        Wet Brakes
> 
> >When the driver felt the brakes begining to fade, he pressed a button on
> >the steering wheel so as to switch on all the pumps, a few seconds worth
> >of a squirt did the trick.
> 
> Honestly, I don't think squirting water onto the brake rotors is the ideal solution. >                
In my rallying days I saw a few sets of rotors disintegrate upon hitting
a pool of icy water at the end (well, it WAS the end after he hit it;})
of a long hard braking incident. Mini Cooper, Datsun 510, Peugot, and
Sunbeam or Simca - can't remember which. Not a real good idea, although
a gentle spray would NOT be as disasterous as the ice bath!!
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 22:04:19 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 19:05:05 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Mon, 11 May 1998 13:46:24 -0700, goflo@pacbell.net wrote:

>Michael Kasimirsky wrote:
>> But since I spammed you all anyway ...
>> Thanks and sorry,
>
>What spam? Not well-structured enough.

Ahh, there you have it Michael; your post wasn't well-structured enough
to qualify for spam, so not to worry. End of story. B)

Jack's so subtle, ain't he. Hee hee.

>SuperFlow used to sell the manuals for their benches separately. When
>I was considering buying a SF-600 I bought the manual first - It's
>very interesting. About $20 US some years ago.
>"How To Build & Modify Chevrolet Small-Block Cylinder Heads" by David
>Vizard (amazon.com, $16) is good stuff about chevys and flow benches.
>And well-structured.

Alright, yet another confirming recommend for the Lizard's book!

SuperFlow does still sell their manuals, BTW, so give it a try. Think up
a nice story for why you need such a manual, should the drone you talk
to decide to get "pickyune" with ya. But they're still in the $20s of
buckaroos. Worthwhile for the researcher.

Yeah, the Lizard's book is definitely "well-structured", and if
reprinted in it's entirety on the list, would definitely qualify as
SPAM. Hee hee.

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 22:32:19 1998
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Also found www site that has lots of info, try this:

http://www.cybernet.dk/users/nez/Othrlink.htm

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 22:54:25 1998
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Message-ID: <01BD7DA4.3CD8ED80.dzorde@soanar.com.au>
From: Dan Zorde <dzorde@soanar.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Wet Brakes
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 12:48:17 +0800
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I thought it was just the calipers you sprayed, as suddenly cooling red hot 
disks can cause them to crack or warp.

Dan	dzorde@soanar.com.au

-----Original Message-----
From:	Peter Jaramaz [SMTP:pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au]
Sent:	Tuesday, 12 May, 1998 6:08 AM
To:	'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'
Subject:	RE: Wet Brakes

The local 5Litre touring cars use water sprayed on the discs to cool the 
brakes. Massive discs and 6 pot calipers - you need that for 300kmh :-)



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`
end


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 22:55:34 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Wet Brakes
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 12:58:13 +1000
Encoding: 31 TEXT, 42 UUENCODE
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Hows it this time - believe me, short of editing the DLLs I'm outta options :-{

PJ

----------
From: 	Frederic Breitwieser
Sent: 	Tuesday, May 12, 1998 2:41 PM
To: 	diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	RE: Wet Brakes

>Peter
>(Finally worked out how to stop winmail.dat with Bill's Pot-O-S#!t Emailer 
>prog)

>M& ```$E032Y-:6-R;W-O9G0@36%I;"Y.;W1E`#$(`0V ! `"`````@`"``$$

I see that Peter. :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-


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end



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 23:06:40 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Group O2 Hondo Sensors
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 23:07:17 -0400
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Think I might have found a second cousins friend's brother in law's
drinkin buddy that might know a guy who works in a parts dept.
Honda..  Now to get a price, I need a rough count of those really
likely to buy, and maybes.  Ain't for nothing but gettin the price.
Once I found out how many, then he'll figure a for sure, and a
maybe price, and then I'll ask for names, and money.
  If your inna hurry look elsewhere this will go in on a routine monthy
order, to get the biggest discount, possible.
  It will be a money order deal only, and no I ain't makin a penny
on it.  It will be cost +tax, +envelope,+ shipping period.  An invoice
will be included if ya want it.
  Nothing will happen till all the money is here, I can't afford to front
this
deal.
  Don't go blowin smoke, on this.  The more accurate the count, the
quicker this will happen.  If ya ain't sure don't bother e-mailing me..
  Don't tie up the list with this stuff e-mail me.
  I'm not gonna venture a quess on price, till I get a head count.
Bruce         nacelp@bright.net


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 23:09:24 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Pressure Sensors & ION Eyes
References: <35528973.5A57@pacbell.net> <138CECC3D20@psc.fp.co.nz> <35582076.2264265@santaclara01.pop.internex.net> <35565267.2EC950DC@mwt.net> <35656917.20857796@santaclara01.pop.internex.net> <35575C75.2B45@pacbell.net> <35926dbf.87585234@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
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Hi Garfield

I'll be taking you up on the speed controller assistance. Thanks.
Need to decide whether to go with what I've got or just build a 
bench from scratch. I'm taken with this Paxton blower notion -
Really sounds like a winner. A/C motor controls are outside my
hack so I'm all ears for your scheme.

Lemme run this by you: Re pitot tubes - How 'bout sensing "static"
pressure in a duct of known dimension and velocity with a pitot 
tube. If you know both then flow is straightforward computation.
High quality pitot tubes are relatively cheap (Dwyer). A range of 
duct diameters is possible if necessary. Comment?
 
Not to beat accuracy/repeatability to death, but I've found in 
component testing that what you've got hung on the piece under test 
(manifold, air straightener, whatever) makes way more than a couple
of per cent difference - I doubt it'll surprise you that a lot of the
"big" numbers you hear about are obtained with very "unrealistic" test 
set-ups, to put it kindly.
I once had the honor of being abused by Ken Sperrling (Air Flow
Research) for having the temerity to test one of his creations (for a
customer), creating a certain amount of heartburn thereby. We all got
over it, but the point is that hokey data and flow bench are synonyms
unless you're determined ...

Hope this is of some use.

Jack


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 23:15:50 1998
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Message-ID: <3557BF94.22CA@huron.net>
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 23:18:44 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 2 stroke injection
References: <01BD7D81.B57C0920@PJARAMAZ       >
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Anybody ever tried mechanical injection, like a diesel pump, on a 2
stroke gas engine?Figure the oil in the mix would handle lubrication OK
- but would it work? Not talking direct injection, just port, timed
injection on a V4 Evinrude.Pressure reduced from doozle pressure, and
injection volume determined strictly by throttle opening, with possible
manual mixture control.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 23:38:08 1998
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Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 23:38:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jody Shapiro <jshapiro@bit-net.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: GM ECM Flash programmer
In-Reply-To: <3554637C.186B087F@lucent.com>
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On Sat, 9 May 1998 kenkelly@lucent.com wrote:

> 1) Has anyone found a shareware or reasonably priced software package to
> reprogram the 94 & up GM EEProm ECM's.

Steve Cole of The Turbo Shop sells his Mastertune software that will do
reprograms of those PCM's.  Not sure if you'll need the Pro version,
though ($3700)...  :/

-Jody

--
97 Blue Vortech Z28 -  Best ET: 13.100  Best MPH: 111.24 (Goodyear RS-A's)
361 rear-wheel hp @ 6000rpm,  359 rear-wheel ft-lbs @ 4400rpm
http://www.bit-net.com/~jshapiro/z28/  



From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 23:45:05 1998
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Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 23:42:16 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: RE: Wet Brakes
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> Hows it this time - believe me, short of editing the DLLs I'm outta options :-{
> 
> PJ

change mailer (you're using MS exchange,right ??)

some member here are using MS outlook and they got it right (ya can even
use netscape mail prog.,pegasus or eudora)

Alain

> begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT
> M>)\^(@\"`0:0" `$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y 0```````#H``$(@ <`
> M& ```$E032Y-:6-R;W-O9G0@36%I;"Y.;W1E`#$(`0V ! `"`````@`"``$$


From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 23:46:30 1998
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Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 22:36:43 -0500
From: Steven Gorkowski <kb4mxo@mwt.net>
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Heard you can convert 3 phase motors in to steppers . That may be the
ticket. Never tried this but it may work.

Steve

garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:

> On Fri, 8 May 1998 21:00:11 +0000, bamcknig@postoffice.syspac.com
> wrote:
> >
> >5 HP High Pressure Blower   349.95
> >New, features a Paxton belt driven centrifugal blower RM87(similar to
>
> >an automotive supercharger)  5 Hp TEFC two speed motor.
> >Specs
> >400 cfm   29 inches of water discharge pressure
> >3 1/2 inlet    3" outlet
>
> >Surplus Center
> >1-800-488-3407  24 hrs a day 7 days a week
> >1015 West "O" St.  PO Box 82209 Lincoln Nebraska 68501-2209
> >402-474-4055    FAX 402-474-5198
>
> WOW, guys, I just got through researching this, and this same blower
> is
> both a current Paxton product, as well as sells for $2,325 new! They
> seem to be IDEAL for a flow bench blower. The downside of course is
> that
> they have 3-phase motors, but at 5HP, you wouldn't wanna have to pay
> the
> cost of a single-phase motor anywhoo. So, I took the plunge and just
> ordered one. Excellent find, Bob. I owe ya major brewski's for this
> one!
>
> The other REAL nice thang about using a single blower like this, is
> that
> the total noise is gonna be WAY less, not to mention not having to
> build
> a bloody plenum/air box to hold the multiple smaller vacuum/blower
> motors. NEAT!  All I do is plumb the intake and exhaust lines up to
> the
> stand, for a place to hook them up to the "head adapter" and presto,
> flow bencho!
>
> Gar
>
> P.S. Crumbs, now I have to switch gears and look into computer
> controllable 3-phase motor speed controllers. (they're a tad more
> complicated than simple thyristor AC/DC controllers, but definitely
> diy'able). Sheesh, too many technologies, too little time.




From diy_efi-owner  Mon May 11 23:54:21 1998
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From: "Bill Lawrance" <blawranc@abc.az05.bull.com>
To: <DIY_EFI-Digest@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Questions about EGOR
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 20:40:09 -0700
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  <snip>

>OK, fine on the "features", that sounds good, but do you know what it's
>headroom on it's regulated 5.0V current budget IS? I thot not. Nobody
>does, so thas why I was pushing for running it off BAT+ if possible.
>See, I'm a flyboy, so I don't take such liberties with the assumptions.
>If "win, place, or show", is important to you, you won't either. Don't
>add to your ECM's power budget unless you know WHAT it's power budget
>IS. That was my point.

I only know Ludis from his postings on this list, but based on these, he
has an extremely accurate and detailed knowledge of the ECM's he is
interested in.  I would be very surprised if he didn't know exactly
what the power budget is in the ECM's he's interested in.

<snip>

>>So I guess I'd need to put a 5:1 resistor divider on EGORs output, run
>>that to the standard O2 input, and change the 4 or 5 PROM bytes needed
>>to deal with the different voltage profile.
>
>Again, WHAT?; you really gotta listen up; the output curve for EGOR
>doesn't represent ANYTHING similar to an normal O2 sensor, and if you
>wanted to map it into a similar kinda output, you'd certainly be
>spending more than 4 or 5 bytes on storage, unless you were building a
>bang-bang controller, in which case WHY on earth would you use EGOR? You
>need to do your homework, dude.

Again, from previous posts by Ludis, he has done more 'homework' than
at least 99% of the list and shared much of it. I know he's smarter than
me, and my response is: please explain more of what you have in mind
here because I don't understand it. There is likely to be something
very interesting here.

<snip>

>for anywhere less than 10X the cost of the device. I think you, guy,
>have your head firmly impacted up a nice, warm dark place, and I am NOT
>gonna waste any more of my time on ya. Just my personal opinion, mindya.
>
>Sayonara, Lulu baby.

I think this is very rude and unwarranted. This was not the wild
speculations of someone who just read the next chapter in his textbook. In
my opinion, reasonable questions and discussion points were posed by one
of the most knowledgeable members of the list, and don't deserve this.

I do not want Ludis' contributions quashed.


Respectfully

Bill Lawrance



From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 00:01:44 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: RE: Wet Brakes
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Another non-related EFI item is to recirculate the brake fluid through the
calipers. I have seen a number of vendors, Dan Press Industries, and a
couple of others that recycle the fluid through a small cooler to keep it
from boiling. The interesting thing is that I was watching the 'Brake Cam'
on some 500 mile round and round race, and the rotors on the rear would
almost be in a constant glow of red. So the key must be to have really
thick rotos, and some nice carbon pads. I also have heard mention of some
races with brake activated squirters, but can remember if they were
directed more for the caliper or for the rotor. Check the 'real' race mags,
stock car, circle track, and racecar engineering for some trick brake
components.

Oh, sorry Clare, didn't mean to reply to you about the winmail.dat, your
message was just one that I replied to. BUT, since the issue came up,
someone has the master direction on how to turn it off, might be worth
putting on the FTP site.

Sandy

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 00:03:40 1998
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 00:00:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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> Tell Honda it can't be done. They sold a ton of stratified charge CVCC
> cars in the early 80's

does they sold some of'em here (Canada/US) ???

Alain



From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 00:07:50 1998
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Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 22:58:10 -0500
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put me down for one

Steve

Bruce Plecan wrote:

> Think I might have found a second cousins friend's brother in law's
> drinkin buddy that might know a guy who works in a parts dept.
> Honda..  Now to get a price, I need a rough count of those really
> likely to buy, and maybes.  Ain't for nothing but gettin the price.
> Once I found out how many, then he'll figure a for sure, and a
> maybe price, and then I'll ask for names, and money.
>   If your inna hurry look elsewhere this will go in on a routine
> monthy
> order, to get the biggest discount, possible.
>   It will be a money order deal only, and no I ain't makin a penny
> on it.  It will be cost +tax, +envelope,+ shipping period.  An invoice
>
> will be included if ya want it.
>   Nothing will happen till all the money is here, I can't afford to
> front
> this
> deal.
>   Don't go blowin smoke, on this.  The more accurate the count, the
> quicker this will happen.  If ya ain't sure don't bother e-mailing
> me..
>   Don't tie up the list with this stuff e-mail me.
>   I'm not gonna venture a quess on price, till I get a head count.
> Bruce         nacelp@bright.net




From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 00:09:59 1998
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 14:06:44
To: DIY_EFI@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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Dear All,
	I am new to this mailing list so I hope this is not an irrelevant question
(can I ask questions or am I only allowed to post extremely up to date,
relevant articals).
	Anyway, I have a factory turbo charged and fuel injected honda engine in
my car. The problem is the computer(denshigiken) is a fuel only type. I can
modify my fuel maps but my ignition is controlled strictly by mechanical
and vacuum advance. I read an article on the developement of an
electronically controlled, distributerless ign. system on your home page. I
was wondering how successfull this was. I don't want to move to completely
programmable fuel injection (mainly because of the cost but was wondering
if you guys would be interested in selling easy to follow plans or a kit or
a fully made item?? I don't know what the deal is when it comes to these
sort of things.
	The motor has two inductive type crank angle sensors on the end of the
camshaft. The first is run by a magnetic lobe on a shaft with a single
trigger point. There is also a four pointed trigger (similar to that found
in an electronic distributer)on the same shaft that must have something to
do with injector firing?
	Do you think the signal from either of these could be used, or would I
have to set up so sort of reflective signal on the crankshaft pulley?
Thanks for giving this some consideration
Charles Hatcher


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Gar -

Forgot to mention that I had been thinking about pitot tubes for 
use in a sort of hybrid FI scheme. Speed-density for daily-driver
operating regime, supplemented/supplanted by pitot tube input as
rpm and air demand rise. Might work well in boost apps. I can see
a horribly complicated algorithm though. Perhaps not even well-
structured.

Jack


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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 14:41:39 +1000
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Wayne Blair <wayneb@foxboro.com.au>
Subject: the aussie V8, direct petrol injection
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some more 308 info - as  I did not see some of the q's answered

STD 
bore 4.00
stroke 3.06
BE 2.125

easy stroked sizes
320 use small journal chev rods

350 use 350 chev crank
383 use 400 chev crank
requires crank rework to hav something to attache flywheel to

Also aftermarket cast cranks in 3.5 and 3.75 strokes

can use a 272 or 292 or 312 y-block ford crank

can bore a perkins (another great aussie racer) block to 4.125

thus 400 is possible.

Also much of the direct petrol injection system employed are made under
licence to the aussie orbital engine company.



wayne

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 01:09:19 1998
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 02:08:53 -0300 (ADT)
From: Dennis J Fagundo <fagunddj@is2.dal.ca>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: 2 stroke injection
In-Reply-To: <3557BF94.22CA@huron.net>
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I am working on injecting a 100cc 2stroke motorcycle however I have been
taking a long time to get anywhere with the combination of school work and
the amount of stuff there is to figure out before .......

Anyway I am planning on first implementing an elec ign , then add a
port injector, then eventually add closed loop control perhaps using the
wide range o2 meter.  

So I probably can't help ya too much, but anyway....

L8R

Dennis

__________________________________-
Dennis Fagundo
fagunddj@is2.dal.ca
dfagundo@ibl.bm
___________________________________


On Mon, 11 May 1998, Clare Snyder wrote:

> Anybody ever tried mechanical injection, like a diesel pump, on a 2
> stroke gas engine?Figure the oil in the mix would handle lubrication OK
> - but would it work? Not talking direct injection, just port, timed
> injection on a V4 Evinrude.Pressure reduced from doozle pressure, and
> injection volume determined strictly by throttle opening, with possible
> manual mixture control.
> -- 
>                                _/\_
>                        --|-----([])-----|--
>                          S    0/  \0    B
>          Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
>                   E-Mail service is back to normal
>                   To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
>                     Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
>                                 OR
> Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
> spammers!!!
> It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
> Turkeys!!!
> 

________________________________________________

Dennis Fagundo
fagunddj@tuns.ca
dfagundo@ibl.bm

http://www.tuns.ca/~fagunddj

_______________________________________________


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From: "Thor Johnson" <thormj@earthlink.net>
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Subject: RE: Spark plugs/injectors
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 01:27:31 -0400
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> > Tell Honda it can't be done. They sold a ton of
> stratified charge CVCC
> > cars in the early 80's
>
> does they sold some of'em here (Canada/US) ???

I've owned 2 Accord CVCC engines (and their cars! 1984 & 1986).
Both were feedback carbed, which means when the ego went out, you
could accelerate if you timed it right (with the richining of the
A/F).  Pretty good, not a lot of power, but 35mpg even w/180k mi
on it.

Actually, the 84 might not have been CVCC, but I don't remember.
It still ran OK after impacting a tree, so give it some credit
(impact only enough to mangle up thru radiator/oil cooler)!

-Thor Johnson
thormj@iname.com


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 01:28:43 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Questions about EGOR
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 22:29:32 -0700
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On Mon, 11 May 1998 20:40:09 -0700, "Bill Lawrance"
<blawranc@abc.az05.bull.com> wrote:

>I only know Ludis from his postings on this list, but based on these, he
>has an extremely accurate and detailed knowledge of the ECM's he is
>interested in.  I would be very surprised if he didn't know exactly
>what the power budget is in the ECM's he's interested in.

Ok, Ok, I may have been a tad hard on ole Lulu. I admit it. But ya
noticed I took the time to respond to his questions, rather than just
blow them off? In the beginning, I gave the twirp the benefit of the
doubt. Cuz here's what I see. A guy knows what he knows in the area he
knows. Problem is, he doesn't know what he doesn't know. That's alot
harder thing. So he waltzes into this other area, and figures, well, I
know my way around here, so I'll just button-hole these guys and see
what's what. So he ends up asking a few off-the-wall questions, and
EVERY post I've seen from him, it starts off with what seem like
reasonable questions, and then he ends up progressively sticking his
head up his orifice, ifyaknowwhadamean.

Give you an example; he starts by asking the seemingly innocent
question, that he wonders how much power EGOR takes, cuz he'd like to
run it off his ECM power. I say, OK, here's how much power EGOR takes,
but remember, it's always better to NOT presume on your ECM power
budget, cuz NOBODY, except the designers of the system, can know what
the available reserve is. NOBODY. He replys by saying, OH, yeah, but ALL
the sensors on normal ECM's run off ECM power, and besides my ECM has
lots of power features, so I'd like to use it. Features, smeatures, I
say, what about the issue I raised about presuming on the ECM power
budget?

Now YOU say, Oh Ludis is smart, he MUST know what the budget is. Yeah?,
BUZZZTT, you're lookin to the man rather than the facts. NOBODY knows!
NOBODY. Which was my point; so when some preppy lil puke comes back and
says, well Gar, my dog's smarter and prettier than yours, I only gotta
say, Nyet, nix, zilch. You wanna argue the parameters, fine; but don't
just pass by the obvious, and argue with some straw man like, "well, all
the sensors use ECM power". Well, hell yes they do, and they've been
designed into the power budget, but YOU have no idea how much slack is
left, and YOU'RE gonna just tack something else on and HOPE it works?!

Like I said before, I don't play fast and loose with the engineering,
cuz I'm a flyboy, and if anything I've learned from Mutha Naitcha is,
you don't ASSume stuff like this.

>Again, from previous posts by Ludis, he has done more 'homework' than
>at least 99% of the list and shared much of it. I know he's smarter than
>me, and my response is: please explain more of what you have in mind
>here because I don't understand it. There is likely to be something
>very interesting here.

OK, thas why I said I may have been a tad hard on ole Lulu. He has
contributed, he has done his homework. But in this case, microprocessor
wits are nearly absolutely witless. They RARELY have to think about a
limited power budget, cuz they're used to living off an infinite +5V.
What I think happened is he want's to be part of the intelligencia
concerning EGOR (of which there is precious lil if any), but instead of
playing the student (always a wise move), he plays the "expert from
across town", and pees all over his own leg as a result. Well, waytago,
dude, is all I gotta say. If ya don't know what the f*ck you're talkin
bout, then don't open yer mouth. That's my paradigm. Don't like it?; get
stuffed. That's my paradigm. Gee, do I hear an echo in here?

We ALL are accountable to the truth and what's real, as best we know it.
If you pretend to know something you don't, in my Dad's book, that's
just LYING. Period.

>>I think you, guy,
>>have your head firmly impacted up a nice, warm dark place, and I am NOT
>>gonna waste any more of my time on ya. Just my personal opinion, mindya.
>>
>>Sayonara, Lulu baby.

>I think this is very rude and unwarranted.

I expected as much from some who can't see what's going on here. Ludis
wants to be considered an "expert", but he's talking like a PLEBE, so I
responded to him as a plebe. You're upset. Fine, as expected. Just
consider both sides of the coin, is all I ask.

Lulu's parting comment was some preppy sentiment that ANY group guy
should include the wiring harness for the sensor. Anyone with ANY
experience or brains in this automotive world we live in KNOWS that is a
total whining canard. A HARNESS, CONNECTORS? You expect to get them for
anything reasonable in cost and you've made Pollyanna look like a cynic,
in comparison.

So what starts out a seemingly legitimate string of questions get
progressively peavish and STUPID. Ends up complaining that his diapers
are wet, and "we shouldn't order sensors unless we can get connectors
and harnesses TOO". Whaaaaaa. Yeah, sure.

>I do not want Ludis' contributions quashed.

Nor do I. I'd hope rather that Ludis would consider this lashing from an
ole curmudgeon like me as a lesson that one dasn't play the knowitall
unless one is prepared to pay the piper. Thas all.

>Respectfully

I agree, Bill, your retort to me has been extremely respectful and
well-modulated, and I am actually amazed at the even tone. It's not
often you see that sort of thing. I would ask in return that you
consider my statement back to you, that I think Ludis' motives for the
questions he's been asking haven't been so much info seeking as trying
to pretend he's the electrical man-about-town. And I was just laughing
that his fly appeared to be open. Heh.

>Bill Lawrance

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 01:30:22 1998
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From: danny_tb@postoffice.utas.edu.au (Danny Barrett)
Subject: Re: Spark plugs/injectors & specified ignition energy
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G'day there mate...
The ignition thing sounds good. I have a spark plug gap of about
1.5mm(standard for my car). How do you think this will go? As for Charles
Nelson Pogue, of Winnepeg, Canada... No... I don't know a thing about him
(just kidding)... As for 216 MPG - I assume this is imperial gallons, not US
gallons. Asside from that, Pogue, himself never claimed to get more than 100
MPG (he never claimed this much). He only claimed a "significant increase"
in mileage. However, others claimed these figures for him. I don't know the
accuracy of such figures, but I believe he did get 100 MPG at least once
(from other evidence that I've seen). However, he was using "white"
gasoline, which is completely free of lead, and didn't have any "molecular
binders," as we have now. The molecular binders are to keep the fuel from
vaporising in storage. As for unleaded fuel, it still has lead, but in trace
quantities, so it does not harm cat converters. What Pogue didn't reallise
until too late was that his carb catalytically cracked the fuel into methane
(and other small, high octane molecules). When leaded fuel came along, his
invention ceased to work, as the lead coated the copper surface of his
vaposiser, and stopped the catalytic reaction. Now, with ULP, and PULP, we
can use second hand cat converters to crack the fuel (provided there is no
air in the catalytic chamber, and the chamber's temp is over 500 deg C).
Pogue didn't reallise all of this until after leaded fuel became the normal
fuel, and "white" gasoline was no longer available. I'm designing a carb on
these very principles at the moment, using EFI to control it. A friend of
mine put me onto what he calls Thremal Catalytic Cracking. Anyway, tell me
what you know, and I may be able to help you a bit.

Danny Barrett.



>Hi,  Danny,
>The system itself will give huge possibilities to bring down a/f-ratio,
>because it changes and adapts each type of combustion process much better
>to the engines' parameters.
>The minimum a/f-ratios achievable with a well structured spark energy are
>depending on your combustion chamber, spark plug gap, ignition coil, a.s.o.
>For bringing the a/f-ratio down, some fine-tuning of spark advance and
>electrode gapping will greatly help to use at least some of the impulse
>oscillator ignition systems' advantages.
>
>By the way, DID YOU HEAR SOMETHING ABOUT A HIGH-MILEAGE CARB IN THE 30's by
>Charles M. Pogue which could do 216 mpg!!
>
>Joachim


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 01:35:54 1998
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Subject: Re: Holdens a little info
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>At 12:09  11/05/98 +1000, you wrote:
>>Actually, the normally aspirated 3L is the RB-30E, and the Turbo is the
>>RB-30ET. RB-30E has comp. ratio of 9:1, and the RB-30ET has comp. ratio of
>>7.5:1, so obviously, they have different heads. Even still, both have
>>problems with cracking heads, so you have to be careful not to everheat
>>them. Even still, I've heard of a RB-30ET getting 470 HP, and another (with
>>a little bit of nitrous) getting 670 HP. Not bad from a 3L engine...
>>
>>
>>>> a nissan 3L also (some one else will know more)
>>>
>>>The nissan is an RB-30
>>>
>>>in both normally aspirated, and turbo configurations.....
>
>
>I have been informed that the heads were the same, although the VL turbo
>uses pistons with a deep dish...  but my engine builder may be mistaken...
>it wouldn't be the first time   :)

I got the comp. ratios from a "Gregory manual," so I assume they're correct.
However, I suppose they could use the same head, only, the non-turbo one
could be "planed down" in comparison to the turbo one. Of course, the turbo
head is red, while the normal one is grey (from memory - or perhaps black -
I haven't taken much notice).


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 01:47:02 1998
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Subject: Re: Pressure Sensors & ION Eyes
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 22:47:48 -0700
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References: <35528973.5A57@pacbell.net> <138CECC3D20@psc.fp.co.nz> <35582076.2264265@santaclara01.pop.internex.net> <35565267.2EC950DC@mwt.net> <35656917.20857796@santaclara01.pop.internex.net> <35575C75.2B45@pacbell.net> <35926dbf.87585234@santaclara01.pop.internex.net> <3557BCD9.5F1A@pacbell.net>
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On Mon, 11 May 1998 20:07:05 -0700, goflo@pacbell.net wrote:

>I'll be taking you up on the speed controller assistance. Thanks.
>Need to decide whether to go with what I've got or just build a 
>bench from scratch. I'm taken with this Paxton blower notion -
>Really sounds like a winner. A/C motor controls are outside my
>hack so I'm all ears for your scheme.

Well, don't look now, but I've read some on the present "tek" on AC
motor speed controllers, and it makes me wonder if I'm really an EE. I
think I've got a pretty decent learning curve aheadOme.

>Lemme run this by you: Re pitot tubes - How 'bout sensing "static"
>pressure in a duct of known dimension and velocity with a pitot 
>tube. If you know both then flow is straightforward computation.
>High quality pitot tubes are relatively cheap (Dwyer). A range of 
>duct diameters is possible if necessary. Comment?

Well, yeah, that's what I always thot was the point of them Dwyer
two-piece pitot tubes, one to measure static, the other dynamic, but
again, you HAVE to assume the velocity profile of the plumbing you're
using, in order to get FLOW, don'tcha?

>Not to beat accuracy/repeatability to death, but I've found in 
>component testing that what you've got hung on the piece under test 
>(manifold, air straightener, whatever) makes way more than a couple
>of per cent difference - I doubt it'll surprise you that a lot of the
>"big" numbers you hear about are obtained with very "unrealistic" test 
>set-ups, to put it kindly.

Yeah, well you ARE way ahead of me on knowing the practicalities of this
game, as I have only played with a SF-300 on one single head (4 ports) I
was working on. That's why I said probably +-5% is gonna do it. But I've
also had the crappy experience of sending the piece to someone else that
also had a SF-300, and having them tell me my numbers were way off!!

>I once had the honor of being abused by Ken Sperrling (AFR)
<bozo story snipped> Ahhh, that's all goin under the heading of
politics/and-or those that deserve most of all the single-finger salute.
Geez, understanding and keepin yerself from foolin yerself is hard
enough, without these bozos coming along and saying they're fully
clothed and beautiful, when any damned fool can see they're stark naked.

I dunno, at my age I start thinking what caliber of ordnance would be
necessary to expunge the dildo from the scene. I've come to the
conclusion that fakes and charlatans are a natural percentage of the
population, and should be treated as such, just like any OTHER criminal
element. But, then again, I am kinda a curmudeon.

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 01:51:15 1998
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> 
> Also aftermarket cast cranks in 3.5 and 3.75 strokes
any idea on cost of these cranks....ideally the ones that will take standard Chev rods 

> can bore a perkins (another great aussie racer) block to 4.125
Never heard of these blocks ....are they cast by Holden for Perkins ?? 

> 
> Also much of the direct petrol injection system employed are made under
> licence to the aussie orbital engine company.
What parts in particular ??


------------------------------------------------------
Get free personalized email at http://four11.iname.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 02:45:29 1998
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 16:42:11
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Charles Hatcher <Charles.Hatcher@jcu.edu.au>
Subject: RE: Spark plugs/injectors
In-Reply-To: <003a01bd7d66$a96b9c60$06c05196@odin.mavrik.com>
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I have an injected, turboed CVCC 1200 motor in my car which puts out
140bhp. Before that I had the ES1800 CVCC dual carb 86 Prelude motor which
put out 135hp. I bent the cvcc valves on that so I took them out and
plugged the holes. Then I disconected the third carby (CVCC only). The
thing didn't lose any hp but it did get a slightly rough idle.
CVCC are great for turbos because you can run high boost such as 20lbs with
a standard head and gasket etc. This is primarily because of the stratified
charge. Detonation is much less likely to occur. Ie there is much less
chance of a second flame front developing in the lean main combustion
chamber before the rich precombustion mixture is ignited.


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 02:52:49 1998
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 00:39:02 -0600
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Sandy wrote:
> 
> Please check your mail programs, It is attaching those annoying
> WINMAIL.DAT, and other junk files along with the mail.
> 
> Sandy
WHO???

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 03:04:00 1998
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I just can't believe my eyes.  This is incredible. 
Unbelievable even.  


Joachim M. Wagner wrote:
> 
> Thank you very much for the compliments, Gar!
> I feel you are one of the first people to whom I ever spoke who has
> perfectly realised what' s going on with that ignition system!
> It' s an honour for me to talk with you, Gar.
> Joachim
> 
> ----------
> > Von: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com
> > An: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> > Betreff: Re: Spark plugs/injectors & specified ignition energy
> > Datum: Montag, 11. Mai 1998 18:40
> >
> > On Mon, 11 May 1998 13:44:47 +0300, "Joachim M. Wagner"
> > <1028-156@online.de> wrote:
> >
> > >The system itself will give huge possibilities to bring down a/f-ratio,
> > >because it changes and adapts each type of combustion process much
> better
> > >to the engines' parameters.
> > >...
> > >By the way, DID YOU HEAR SOMETHING ABOUT A HIGH-MILEAGE CARB IN THE 30's
> by
> > >Charles M. Pogue which could do 216 mpg!!
> > >
> > >Joachim
> >
> > This group just keeps on amazin me!! This is a stupendous development,
> > Joachim. You put a passive device in between the IGN system's HV and the
> > plug, and it "feels each cylinder" and "reshapes the energy" for optimum
> > efficiency/performance. WOW! I'm impressed.
> >
> > Sheesh, well, looks like we've made the transition from our own personal
> > automotive "crack refinery" to the group's own personal "crack pot"! Now
> > THAT'S progress, dudes. B)
> >
> > Gar
> >

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 03:41:54 1998
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From: "Joachim M. Wagner" <1028-156@online.de>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Spark plugs/injectors & specified ignition energy
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 09:46:51 +0300
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Sorry to say,
you are completely wrong!
I wish you could distinct better between spark enhancers which indrease the
number of sparks or the amount of energy, but I said clearly that the
IOS-unit is transforming the QUALITY (that means all the wave-forms and
phase-shifting inside the spark!!) and it works even with the highest
possible frequencies, the fastest which are in the spark, and it works in
real-time mode that means no time delay of sparking and it is very fast,
because even frequencies above 1000 GHz are transformed. Isn't it Great?
with best regards of 
Joachim 

----------
> Von: kenkelly@lucent.com
> An: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Betreff: Re: Spark plugs/injectors & specified ignition energy
> Datum: Dienstag, 12. Mai 1998 00:09
> 
> Sorry to say they didn't just go to Europe. They were
> demonstrated at the Spring 98 Englishtown, NJ & Carlisle, PA
> Automotive Flea markets. I have been going to the Spring &
> Fall shows for the last 5 years and there is always one car
> or pickup truck set up with a Spark enhanser. I think its
> the Autotransformer type. They even manage to sell them to
> this supposedly automotive oriented crowd!!!
> 
> 		Ken 
> 
> Clare Snyder wrote:
> > 
> > garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:
> > >
> > > On Mon, 11 May 1998 13:44:47 +0300, "Joachim M. Wagner"
> > > <1028-156@online.de> wrote:
> > >
> > > >The system itself will give huge possibilities to bring down
a/f-ratio,
> > > >because it changes and adapts each type of combustion process much
better
> > > >to the engines' parameters.
> > > >...
> > > >By the way, DID YOU HEAR SOMETHING ABOUT A HIGH-MILEAGE CARB IN THE
30's by
> > > >Charles M. Pogue which could do 216 mpg!!
> > > >
> > > >Joachim
> > >
> > > This group just keeps on amazin me!! This is a stupendous
development,
> > > Joachim. You put a passive device in between the IGN system's HV and
the
> > > plug, and it "feels each cylinder" and "reshapes the energy" for
optimum
> > > efficiency/performance. WOW! I'm impressed.
> > >
> > > Sheesh, well, looks like we've made the transition from our own
personal
> > > automotive "crack refinery" to the group's own personal "crack pot"!
Now
> > > THAT'S progress, dudes. B)
> > >
> > > Gar
> > 
> > Gar, they've been selling these doo-dads at county fairs since about
> > 1935. They have a spark gap in them that supposedly increases the
> > voltage of the spark - that's one model. The other I have seen has an
> > autotransformer in it - just like an ignition coil but a lower ratio,
> > that is supposed to boost spark output,  and a third one that
supposedly
> > gives a "shower of sparks". Don't know how that one is supposed to
work,
> > but I also saw one that used a "model T type" coil to give multiple
> > sparks. Thought they were finally history, but it appears they just
went
> > to Europe!
> > --
> >                                _/\_
> >                        --|-----([])-----|--
> >                          S    0/  \0    B
> >          Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
> >                   E-Mail service is back to normal
> >                   To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
> >                     Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
> >                                 OR
> > Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
> > spammers!!!
> > It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
> > Turkeys!!!
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 04:12:10 1998
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 01:10:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chris Vandrachek <chrisv@egr.up.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: How do I reduce ignition noise. (HELP!!)
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To all in EFT land:
	I have recently designed and built a simple EFT system based on a
Mot. HC12.  All has gone well until now.  I can't keep the MCU from
reseting whenever the ignition fires.  I am only a sophomore EE student so
I don't exactly know where to start.  

Here is a quick outline:
	-The MCU is physically isolated from the coil etc (5ft), but they
	share the same battery.
	-I'm using a standard points ignition...I'd do a electronic, but I
	have to be done by this Friday.  
	-The MCU supply is regulated with only a LM2935 (an automotive
	specific device).  Only a .1 cap on the inputs.
	-It seems that reset occurs most whenever a open arc is present,
	arcing in distributor cap included.
	-The problem is independent of my triggering pulse (from
	coil)...so I'm guessing it is due to voltage spikes/drops or it is 
	"in the air" (EMF?).

I don't know what to do and I gotta have the done by Friday for a design
competition.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!	
	Thanks,
	  Chris Vondrachek
          EE student, University of Portland
  	  chrisv@egr.up.edu



From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 04:17:23 1998
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From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Wet Brakes
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 09:14:16 +0100
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Someone who knows the score when it comes to real power on the track
wrote:

>The local 5Litre touring cars use water sprayed on the discs to cool the
>brakes. Massive discs and 6 pot calipers - you need that for 300kmh :-)
>
>Peter
>(Finally worked out how to stop winmail.dat with Bill's Pot-O-S#!t Emailer
>prog)

The Thundersaloons were basically the same sorts of speeds as your
modern day touring car, the way that they managed this was by having
litterally no rules as to what modifications were allowed. No Max engine
size, no max tire width, no wing restrictions, in fact no of the silly
rules that has turned motorsport into the dull lack lustre debarcle that
it is today.  What ever happened to it, though? well it became Formula
Saloon, with the same rules as before!  So now you get to see ex works
touring cars vs clubman built specials, there is a twin turbo V8 powered
saloon that produces nearly 1000bhp!  No that has got to be seen to be
believed.

What was all this about? Oh yea, no matter what cooling the barkes on
many of these monsters have, and they have the lot, because of the
acceleration and braking on circuits like Brands Hatch many need water
cooling the breaks, many even have oil coolers in their diffs
gearboxes/transaxles


Rob Humphris
>
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 04:21:50 1998
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From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Wet Brakes
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 09:18:42 +0100
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I think Brembo or one of the european caliper manifacturers offer a
caliper with a water jacket so you can get coolant flowing through your
system and easy fluid stress in the hydralic systems

>
>Another non-related EFI item is to recirculate the brake fluid through the
>calipers. I have seen a number of vendors, Dan Press Industries, and a
>couple of others that recycle the fluid through a small cooler to keep it
>from boiling. The interesting thing is that I was watching the 'Brake Cam'
>on some 500 mile round and round race, and the rotors on the rear would
>almost be in a constant glow of red. 
>

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 05:00:32 1998
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 18:59:56 +1000
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: Brake cooling
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>Here are some other ways to cool brakes:
>
>1. Thicker rotors.  More metal, more surface area to stop the car as well
>as dissipate the heat.
>2. Vented rotors (of course).
>3. Air ducts, most race cars have duct work all over the place.
>4. Caliper heat sinks, or larger calipers.
>5. Brake line coolers.  I saw one gent who had heat sink fins on the brake
>lines near the calipers.  I can't say for sure if that really helped or
>not, but he claimed it did.  This was in a dirt-style circle track car.
>6. Change wheel airflow. Its fairly easy to make or purchase wheel covers
>that have fins, which would suck in or discharge air while the wheel
>rotates, like a fan.  Its not as effective as a brake-oriented air-scoop,
>but its another solution.


The car I initially mentioned that requires this system runs in an
Australian class called 'Appendix J', this is a controlled class where the
brakes must stay with the components used at the time of manufacture... 

ie.  DRUMS,   front and rear

as you can see, the suggestion's you have made (apart from ducting) are all
out of the question.

:)

The water is really the only option, so any help with a simple circuit to
trigger it would be appreciated....

after some thought we want to go with the original idea of a timer, that
measures how long the brake pedal is depressed, and switches on the water
pump for this same amount of time....  but we want to be able to adjust a
maximum time setting..  probably around 5 seconds.

can anyone help with the electronics?



From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 05:15:55 1998
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To put an end to all this I checked part numbers and the bare head assemblys for both RB30E and RB30ET engines carry the same GM part number (which is not suprisingly a Nissan part #), the difference in comp. ratio is attained by different pistons.Both crank and rods are the same in both engines
The rocker covers are grey for the RB30E and red crinkle for the RB30ET

> However, I suppose they could use the same head, only, the non-turbo one
> could be "planed down" in comparison to the turbo one. Of course, the turbo
> head is red, while the normal one is grey (from memory - or perhaps black -
> I haven't taken much notice).

Grant


------------------------------------------------------
Get free personalized email at http://four11.iname.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 05:48:33 1998
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 19:47:23 +1000
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: Re: GM ECM Flash programmer
In-Reply-To: <Pine.OSF.3.95.980511233614.19771D-100000@dns.bit-net.com>
References: <3554637C.186B087F@lucent.com>
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At 11:38  11/05/98 -0400, you wrote:
>On Sat, 9 May 1998 kenkelly@lucent.com wrote:
>
>> 1) Has anyone found a shareware or reasonably priced software package to
>> reprogram the 94 & up GM EEProm ECM's.
>
>Steve Cole of The Turbo Shop sells his Mastertune software that will do
>reprograms of those PCM's.  Not sure if you'll need the Pro version,
>though ($3700)...  :/
>
>-Jody
>
>--
>97 Blue Vortech Z28 -  Best ET: 13.100  Best MPH: 111.24 (Goodyear RS-A's)
>361 rear-wheel hp @ 6000rpm,  359 rear-wheel ft-lbs @ 4400rpm
>http://www.bit-net.com/~jshapiro/z28/  



I was put onto an Australian site recently, they have kits including all
software/cables/boards etc to program the Delco EMS's in most of our Holden
(GM) cars.

have a look at....

http://white.aljan.com.au/~bradhost/

i really don't know if it would be at all of use to anyone, but hey.....




From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 06:37:56 1998
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 12:37:14 +0200
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
References: <3.0.3.32.19980512004521.006c4000@mail.rtmol.it>
Subject: Re: Info
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fpalumbo@rtmol.it schrieb:
>
> Please, 
>
> I need information about the OBD2 Protocol for european Cars.
>
> Someone Knows were can I find Technical Informations ?
>
> Any Information would be appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Fabrizio Palumbo.

Try 

	www.obdii.com

(or was it www.obd2.com ???)

This might help you a lot.

Regards

Alex Wenning
wenning.motorsport@t-online.de



From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 07:51:27 1998
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From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@cyberdrive.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 2 stroke injection
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 07:47:20 -0400
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No 2 stroke but I have done lots of work with Bosch mechanical fuel
injection years ago.  These units inject over a fairly small crank angle.  I
would be concerned about proper lubrication or some uncontrolled stratified
charge with only a timed injector pulse(lots of air with a slug of fuel
swirling around).  Injector pulse proportional to throttle would create some
problems as the VE curve has some great peaks and valleys.  Just my 2 cents.

Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>

>Anybody ever tried mechanical injection, like a diesel pump, on a 2
>stroke gas engine?Figure the oil in the mix would handle lubrication OK
>- but would it work? Not talking direct injection, just port, timed
>injection on a V4 Evinrude.Pressure reduced from doozle pressure, and
>injection volume determined strictly by throttle opening, with possible
>manual mixture control.
>                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca



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Pardon me if this is a dumb question;  but, what does a diy_flowbench have
to do with diy_efi?


garfield@pilgrimhouse.com wrote:

> On Mon, 11 May 1998 09:01:33 +1200, "Tony Bryant"
> <Tony.Bryant@psc.fp.co.nz> wrote:
>
> >As, it happens, I'm also building a DIY FlowBench. May I enquire:
> >
> >1) What are you using for (a) blower(s)?
>
> Not sure this is gonna be much help to ya in Kiwilandia, but both
> SuperFlow and QuadrantSci use multiples of what is refered to in the
> trade as ' 5.7" vacuum motor/blowers', made by a number of suppliers,
> especially Ametek, w/air-sealed bearings & double-insolated. They make a
> line of two-stage blower/turbines that for example, are rated at
> 102cfm/90"H20, 120VAC@9.2A [Ametek (used to be Amtek-Lamb) part #
> 116025-13], which sell from a big US electrical supply house like
> Grainger for about $70US ea. I have looked inside SuperFlow boxes and
> talked to the designer of the QuadrantSci stuff, and in both cases what
> they do is of course use multiple blowers in an array, and stacked in
> pairs in series electrically, which you CAN do with AC/DC motors, so you
> now have a pair of said blowers drawing 9.2A/pair across 240VAC. Put say
> 4 pairs of these puppies together and you're up to a goodly 36A @
> 240VAC. Not maxing out your shop feed, by any means, but still alot of
> power at 5KVA. And yes, you'd better believe it's gonna be noisy! Not to
> mention the  "local warming phenomenon", heh.
>
> >2) Can you publish your thyristor speed controller circuit, or at
> >least give us some rough details?
>
> Sure, got it directly outta
>         http://www.teccor.com/thyristor/an1003.pdf
> Look for the "double-time-constant" circuit examples. To get me up to
> 12A @ 240VAC (25% safety margin above the 9A I expected), I used a
> Teccor Q6025J6 Triac and an HT-32 (SGS-Thomson also make the exact same
> part they call a DB3) Diac. Both of these devices are available cheap
> from DigiKey:
>         ftp://ftp.digikey.com/Catalog/V3/PAGES/201-250/211.pdf
>
> This is only good for driving a single PAIR of these blowers, so you
> need to invent/rig either a tandem mechanical or electrical way of
> controlling the pairs of blowers. If you don't wanna build these up
> yerself, and plan on a manual control for the blowers, Dayton Electric
> makes a similar knob-controlled circuit for fan & blower control
> packaged with an integral heat sink. They charge around $100US for them!
> All for a circuit that contains about $12-15 worth of parts. (Hey, all
> it takes is 2 middlemen, and that's what it's gotta be marked up to).
>
> For my purposes, controlling these pairs of thyristors/blowers via
> computer, I'm gonna use some mosfet devices in place of the pots. Thas
> all. (I gotta look at this 5HP 3-phase Paxton blower Bob MacKnight
> recently posted on, tho; it sounds too good to be true, buy hey, greater
> wonders I've seen happen via "surplus" stuff, so who knows!).
>
> >I'm currently using a hotted up garden leafblower, but I'm only
> >getting 10" @ 100 CFM. (Its also very loud).
>
> Well, that just showTaGoYa what kinda power you have to apply to move
> that much air at that much vacuum/pressure. Your garden blower can't be
> drawing much more than 10-12A @ 120VAC (hmm, not sure what the mains are
> in Nz, but just using US figures for ducks). Multiply that by a factor
> of 6-8 to get what's needed to do 20" @ 300cfm. Or compare that to the
> power both SuperFlow and QuadrantSci spec for their bigger benches. It's
> LOTS of AMPS @ 240VAC. Go see at:
>         http://www.superflow.com/products/products-flowbench-sf300.htm
> and you'll see 240VAC @ 33A or
>         http://www.quadsci.com/products/engair/flwbnch/flwbnch.htm
> where you will see 240VAC @ 29A, that's because they're using motor
> control of the blowers, instead of 'bypass', they get some better
> numbers than the SuperFlow chaps, especially at lower flow rates.
>
> >I'm using the PWM circuit out of the back of the Motorola Thyristor
> >book, but it's kinda pulsey in this application.
>
> Hmm, never looked in there. Not familiar.
>
> >And a mechanical pressure sender (a modified carb
> >secondary vaccum modulator, hooked to a pot) as the feedback to the
> >motor controller.
> >
> >I'm using an uncalibrated flap style MAF (I will calibrate on some
> >known heads)
>
> Alright, yer my kinda guy. It may not be "accurate" or "calibrated" but
> for just comparative flow bench studies, which is the real meatNpotatoes
> of the issue anyways, as long as the pressure is repeatable and the flow
> delta is measurable, that's all that matters. With a small investment in
> better pressure measurement, ala the stuff that
> "Jack" <goflo@pacbell.net> mentioned earlier:
>         http://mot2.indirect.com/senseon/mpxl5010.html
> for the sales pitch and
>         http://mot2.indirect.com/books/dl200/pdf/mpxl5010rev2.pdf
> for the datasheets, for a 0-40"water range, where IF you can operate at
> around 20"water, the linearity and accuracy of this device will be just
> wunnerful for your/our porpoises. And it's "cheap", too!! (North
> American Price List says $13-15 each).
>
> The main thing to get outta all this, I s'pose, is that we're REALLY
> movin a whole lotta  AIR to duplicate what a large ICE does whilst
> breathing. So whether you go for a 5HP single-piece blower motor, ala
> Bob McK's recent post ($350 surplus, so figure $3K new), or you add up a
> bunch of smaller blowers like the big boys do (around $500 total, new),
> you're still talkin about a lot of power to cover the pumping losses for
> that much air flow.
>
> Anywho, Tony, good to see there's at least one other wacko like meself
> thinkin alone these lines. I bought/borrowed/read every article/paper I
> could find about the older "fixed, knife-edge orifice and manometer"
> style FB's ala SuperFlow, but after chatting with the designer of the
> QuadSci stuff (whose name is "Oz", oddly enough), I was thoroughly sold
> on this newer approach via electric control of everythang. Maybe just
> the geek in me, but them knife-edge orifices ain't no easy pie to
> calibrate, and have to be moved in and out mechanically, and besides, I
> like to avoid the black magic whenever I can.
>
> Just some poop and some thots, dude.
>
> Cheers,
> Gar




From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 08:39:34 1998
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From: Michael Kasimirsky <mtk@tmc.astm.cmri.cmu.edu>
To: DIY-EFI Mailing List <diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Flowbench help thanks
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 08:40:39 -0400
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I just wanted to thank everyone for the pointers on books on
flowbenches.  Now I've got some books to order and some reading to do.

Michael Kasimirsky

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 09:09:08 1998
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To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: windat
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>Hows it this time - believe me, short of editing the DLLs I'm outta
options :-{
>begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT
>M>)\^(@\"`0:0" `$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y 0```````#H``$(@ <`

Still happening PJ :(

Rip those DLL's apart!!!


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 09:10:24 1998
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Subject: ION Eyes
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 06:11:12 -0700
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Hey Maties.

I've been following up on the trail of tasty crumbs JoeZ left me with
that one patent reference, and ONLY on the basis of going to the IBM
Patent search page:
	http://www.patents.ibm.com/
and doing a search on "ionization" near "ignition", I see that there's a
TON of stuff that's been disclosed and filed on the subject!! WAY more
proportionately than SAE article submissions! Does that mean the smell
of $$$$, or what? If you have a moment, go see what I mean. It will take
me WEEKS to sift through all the stuff that's there!

Whew, it's like when OBD II got passed, everybody and their brother
suddenly was interested in "ionization detection of misfire". Well,
their groveling, our gain. There doth appear to be also lots of useful
ideas and discussion, just following the patent dependency/citing tree.
And, to anchor our interest in a sound hope of practicality, there are
the SAAB patents, that do indeed disclose to the last detail their
actual, working implementation of the technology.

One of the things I DID notice in my first pass scan of all the
articles, if that there are lots of references to using this in
inductive IGN, instead of capacitive discharge, and one patent in
particular that says in essence, "well, our patent is to claim that the
other patents don't *just* apply to CDI". So every patent after that
dutifully cites this one. Guess that guy REALLY knew how to play the
patent game, eh? Weird.

The other thing I notice is the minute detail in which the circuits for
doing this job are disclosed. I'm not used to this kinda detail from my
ASIC background, of course, and it was a kinda shock to be transported
back to the seemingly "tube circuit" days, when diff. guys argued over
whether one cathode or resistor was better than another. As a result,
instead of the usual vague "goes-into results in goes-outta" that I'm
used to, the patents are an absolute joy to read, and a crystalline
disclosure of circuit-thot.

It seems almost a pity that this tech hasn't appeared yet in other car
mfg's offerings. It doesn't appear that it's a function of exclusive
patents on the part of SAAB, but rather that their guys actually got off
thier patented duffs and actually built something that would work. Makes
me admire them Saab guys all the more.

Guess I'm a cynic, but I can just see it now, the marketing and
engineering depts get together, and here's the drift, "Well, we could
make it so you could detect detonation really reliably". "Yeah, but how
much is that gonna ADD to the cost of the car, and how are we gonna be
able to convince people this is really better". "Yeah, and isn't that
likely to decrease our service department's revenues? Ya know them guys
that buy turbo cars CAN'T expect them to live as long, and if we make
them live longer by better detonation detection, we're only cutting into
our service revenues, since longer life expectancy isn't, well,
expected". And on and on. Makes you wonder how them SAAB guys ever got
their system to see the light of day!! Probably only because there are
still some engineers left in their management chain. Hee.

Oh, one last thing I ALSO noticed in some of the patents, is what looks
to be ion detection being done EVEN in distributor-equipped IGN systems.
I still dunno how this can work, exactly, since I haven't read the
patents, but most likely my assumption that this would work only on
direct ignition is FALSE. Now there's a case of being wrong one could
really enjoy!

As I sift through this treasure-house, I'll letch'all know if I stumble
over any really big gems. ION's lookin lovelier by the day. I can hear
it now, our theme song wafting through the air, "When ION Eyes are
smiling ...". Ooooh, my jokes are getting worse and worse, ain't they?
Hee.

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 09:11:16 1998
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 09:15:29 -0700
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Brake Cooling Circuits
In-Reply-To: <3.0.5.32.19980512185956.007b57b0@mail.qonline.com.au>
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 <c=US%a=_%p=Indigo_Active_Vi%l=CRIANLARICH-980511081818Z-46 7@crianlarich.indigo-avs.com>
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Greetings...

>ie.  DRUMS,   front and rear

Yech.

>as you can see, the suggestion's you have made (apart from ducting) are all
>out of the question.

Again, Yech.

>pump for this same amount of time....  but we want to be able to adjust a
>maximum time setting..  probably around 5 seconds.

The previous suggestion of a 555 timer (or the 7555, or any of the
derivitives) could work.  Even easier, a simple R/C network that shorts
with a resistor when you hit the brake, and re-charges through another
resistor when you release.  The cap won't discharge all the way for short
braking spells, and if it does, you time the R/C network to give you 5-6
seconds max.

I prolly could put a schematic together... just not today or tomorrow...
being hammered at work... in fact, I shouldn't be reading my 291 messages
this morning :)


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 09:15:34 1998
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 14:19:44 +0100
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Gus Cameron <cameroa@sbu.ac.uk>
Subject: Re: 2 stroke injection
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If you want to try 2-stroke injection, check out the Bimota Duo
(http://www.sepnet.com/cycle/misc.htm#Bimota is a place to start), a fuel
injected 500cc twin bike.  It was designed as a Grand Prix engine but it
never made the power to compete with the V4's. Bimota tried to recoup the
cost of development by turning it into a road bike but the emission
controls made it into a pig.  Looks nice though.
gus


At 07:47 12/05/98 -0400, gary wrote:
>No 2 stroke but I have done lots of work with Bosch mechanical fuel
>injection years ago.  These units inject over a fairly small crank angle.  I
>would be concerned about proper lubrication or some uncontrolled stratified
>charge with only a timed injector pulse(lots of air with a slug of fuel
>swirling around).  Injector pulse proportional to throttle would create some
>problems as the VE curve has some great peaks and valleys.  Just my 2 cents.
>
>Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>
>
>>Anybody ever tried mechanical injection, like a diesel pump, on a 2
>>stroke gas engine?Figure the oil in the mix would handle lubrication OK
>>- but would it work? Not talking direct injection, just port, timed
>>injection on a V4 Evinrude.Pressure reduced from doozle pressure, and
>>injection volume determined strictly by throttle opening, with possible
>>manual mixture control.
>>                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
>
>
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 09:19:49 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 06:20:38 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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References: <35528973.5A57@pacbell.net> <138CECC3D20@psc.fp.co.nz> <35582076.2264265@santaclara01.pop.internex.net> <35584D40.EFA3152B@cris.com>
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On Tue, 12 May 1998 08:23:13 -0500, "John A. Hess" <johnhess@cris.com>
wrote:

>Pardon me if this is a dumb question;  but, what does a diy_flowbench have
>to do with diy_efi?

WOW, dude if you think THIS is off-topic, you cain't have been around
the group very long!?? Funny, the last time this subject came up for a
good round of discussion, I don't remember a single sole that
complained. Oh well, I s'pose the times, they are a-changin?

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 09:32:17 1998
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From: Robert Humphris <r.humphris@indigo-avs.com>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'" <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 14:29:19 +0100
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It has nothing to do with it, but where better a place to discuss it?  I
am not being faececious if there is a mailing list that deals with
engine performance tuning I would be very interested in joining it.

And while we are on the subject... I have a scrap turbo, and I was
thinking of using the compressor wheel to generate the suction for a
small flow bench.  Is this a good idea?

Rob Humphris

>
>
>Pardon me if this is a dumb question;  but, what does a diy_flowbench have
>to do with diy_efi?
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 09:48:41 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 09:49:12 -0400
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From: John A. Hess <johnhess@cris.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench


>Pardon me if this is a dumb question;  but, what does a diy_flowbench have
>to do with diy_efi?
>
Everything.    Take one detail, say motor control.  What does an
A/C motor have to do with EFI.  Ya notice the the expression treat
it as a stepper motor.  A stepper motor is what GM uses as an
IAC.  

Understanding airflow thru an engine, will allow you to place an
injector in the optimin spot for trying a stratified charged engine.

Controlling feed back currents and voltages, solenoid control is
what fuel injection is.

While some folks here have alot of education about such topics
us HS Grads need to gather alot of exposure to grasp things.

Some folks have learning disabilities, and have to go over things
in painfully small detail to learn something.  

I for one truely appreciately hearing about motor control for water
cooling brakes, and timers for such cause ya might need to control
a EFI fuel pump using PWM, such as Holley does in their system.

I do think part of this list is sharing ideas, and asking questions.
While atta glance things may seem to go way off topic, when ya
mull things over the links are rather short.

Measuring airflow, is what EFI is about.  Wheither on a flow bench
or under a hood.  You can control mixture at either end, if ya want.

Just my .02 worth
Bruce     When ya wear a Cone Shaped Hat ya never know   
               know where ya might wind up.....        


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 09:57:32 1998
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To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: DIYEFI Flowbench
In-Reply-To: <35584D40.EFA3152B@cris.com>
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 <138CECC3D20@psc.fp.co.nz>
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>Pardon me if this is a dumb question;  but, what does a diy_flowbench have
>to do with diy_efi?

Not a whole lot directly... but its a good way to measure MAFs, MAPs, and
supercharger outputs as well as possibly monitoring the airflow to each
cylinder through the intake manifold.  What these guys propose sounds a lot
better than my shop-vac through the MAF method.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 10:20:45 1998
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From: Terry Sare <Terry_Sare@dell.com>
To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
Message-Id: <@m400gw.dell.com>
Subject: RE: Brake Cooling Circuits
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Look on Nationals Web site http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM555.html  for the 555
or other one shots. Fred's comment about attaching the brake switch is good,
except that I would use a 555 in a one shot setup. That way you can adjust your
on time a little more accurately and a 555 can drive a pump or whatever easier.
Lousy ASCII Art Follows:

        +12V          +12V               Ground 1                        | +12V
     |          |               Vcc     8 +12V                      Pump
     |          Resister  Ra          Reset   4  +12V            ___________|

     R 10k          |                              |/
     R          |               Output  3 --------RRR-------|     2n2222
     |------------------------------- 2 Trigger                         |\______
Brake Switch          |------- 7 discharge  555                           |
     |          |------- 6 Threshold          5  -----               Ground
     ground          |                         |
               Cap C                         C (0.01uF)
               |                         |
               ground                         ground

See LM555C datasheet for Ra and C and the real schematic -- Add a cap to ground
on the trigger if to much noise. Add a 12 V zener across the pump so you don't
blow the 2n2222. Lottsa bypass caps.


Terry
<snip>
The previous suggestion of a 555 timer (or the 7555, or any of the
derivitives) could work.  Even easier, a simple R/C network that shorts
with a resistor when you hit the brake, and re-charges through another
resistor when you release.  The cap won't discharge all the way for short
braking spells, and if it does, you time the R/C network to give you 5-6
seconds max.
<snip>

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 10:26:35 1998
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Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 10:30:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <35584D40.EFA3152B@cris.com> from "John A. Hess" at May 12, 98 08:23:13 am
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> 
> Pardon me if this is a dumb question;  but, what does a diy_flowbench have
> to do with diy_efi?

cause if ya don't know how much air you'll be suckin through dem ports
ya don't know how much fuel to be squrtin in on top of it


Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 10:31:11 1998
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From: Terry Sare <Terry_Sare@dell.com>
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Subject: RE: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
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snip
>Pardon me if this is a dumb question;  but, what does a diy_flowbench have
>to do with diy_efi?
>
snip
Bruce Replied:
Everything.
<snip>

I agree with Bruce -- I have learned a lot when the subject digresses into other
areas. The only bad part is when some people don't agree with each other and get
nasty. Sad.

Terry Sare

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Subject: Re: GM ECM Flash programmer
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Jody,
	Thanks for the pointer. I'm not in the business, just a
weekend tinkerer. $3700 is not in my budget. I only paid
$2500 for my 96 camaro engine & trans that I'm putting in my
Street rod!!!

	Does anyone know of a more reasonably priced solution for
the individual. Hypertech is the only solution I've found
that could be in my budget. There are a couple of nice
shareware Eprom editors out there now. It's time to move on
to the EEprom systems. I'm willing to try and come up with a
simple piece of software to read and write the EEprom, but I
haven't found any documents about the protocol GM used. 

	If we could copy the EEprom to a bin, we might be able to
start disassembling the LT1 programming. Just need the Peek
and Poke protocol to get started. I have the ECM.

		Ken
 

Jody Shapiro wrote:
> 
> On Sat, 9 May 1998 kenkelly@lucent.com wrote:
> 
> > 1) Has anyone found a shareware or reasonably priced software package to
> > reprogram the 94 & up GM EEProm ECM's.
> 
> Steve Cole of The Turbo Shop sells his Mastertune software that will do
> reprograms of those PCM's.  Not sure if you'll need the Pro version,
> though ($3700)...  :/
> 
> -Jody
> 
> --
> 97 Blue Vortech Z28 -  Best ET: 13.100  Best MPH: 111.24 (Goodyear RS-A's)
> 361 rear-wheel hp @ 6000rpm,  359 rear-wheel ft-lbs @ 4400rpm
> http://www.bit-net.com/~jshapiro/z28/


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 11:17:29 1998
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 10:18:24 -0500
From: Walter Petermann <corsaro@brokersys.com>
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Chris Vandrachek wrote:
> 
> To all in EFT land:
>         I have recently designed and built a simple EFT system based on a
> Mot. HC12.  All has gone well until now.  I can't keep the MCU from
> reseting whenever the ignition fires.  I am only a sophomore EE student so
> I don't exactly know where to start.
> 
> Here is a quick outline:
>         -The MCU is physically isolated from the coil etc (5ft), but they
>         share the same battery.
>         -I'm using a standard points ignition...I'd do a electronic, but I
>         have to be done by this Friday.
>         -The MCU supply is regulated with only a LM2935 (an automotive
>         specific device).  Only a .1 cap on the inputs.
>         -It seems that reset occurs most whenever a open arc is present,
>         arcing in distributor cap included.
>         -The problem is independent of my triggering pulse (from
>         coil)...so I'm guessing it is due to voltage spikes/drops or it is
>         "in the air" (EMF?).
> 
> I don't know what to do and I gotta have the done by Friday for a design
> competition.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!
>         Thanks,
>           Chris Vondrachek
>           EE student, University of Portland
>           chrisv@egr.up.edu

Chris Vandrachek wrote:

> 

> To all in EFT land:

>         I have recently designed and built a simple EFT system based on a

> Mot. HC12.  All has gone well until now.  I can't keep the MCU from

> reseting whenever the ignition fires.  I am only a sophomore EE student so

> I don't exactly know where to start.

> 

> Here is a quick outline:

>         -The MCU is physically isolated from the coil etc (5ft), but they

>         share the same battery.

>         -I'm using a standard points ignition...I'd do a electronic, but I

>         have to be done by this Friday.

>         -The MCU supply is regulated with only a LM2935 (an automotive

>         specific device).  Only a .1 cap on the inputs.

>         -It seems that reset occurs most whenever a open arc is present,

>         arcing in distributor cap included.

>         -The problem is independent of my triggering pulse (from

>         coil)...so I'm guessing it is due to voltage spikes/drops or it is

>         "in the air" (EMF?).

> 

> I don't know what to do and I gotta have the done by Friday for a design

> competition.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!

>         Thanks,

>           Chris Vondrachek

>           EE student, University of Portland

>           chrisv@egr.up.edu



 Chris,

 I would like to help but would need more info. My first

guess (usually wrong!) would be to look at the circuit

between the coil and the MCU.

Have you tried an inductor in series with the power supply

of the MCU board?

 If you like, email a circuit diagram.



  Walter

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 11:32:49 1998
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Subject: Re: GM ECM Flash programmer
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Matt,
	Interesting product! I took a quick look at the site. I
still haven't quite figured it out yet. Looks like they
actually replace the Memcal with a custom board. They do
list some 5.7 liter & 4L60E PCM's, but their discussion
sounds like our older TPI batch fire systems rather than the
Sequential LT1.  I will look at the numbers on my PCM
tonight and see if it is one of the ones they support. It is
not obvious if there Memcal will work on the LT-1, or why
they replace the memcal. 

	Looks like the price starts at $695 in Australian $, anyone
know the current exchange rate?
		Ken


Matthew Harding wrote:
> 
> At 11:38  11/05/98 -0400, you wrote:
> >On Sat, 9 May 1998 kenkelly@lucent.com wrote:
> >
> >> 1) Has anyone found a shareware or reasonably priced software package to
> >> reprogram the 94 & up GM EEProm ECM's.
> >
> >Steve Cole of The Turbo Shop sells his Mastertune software that will do
> >reprograms of those PCM's.  Not sure if you'll need the Pro version,
> >though ($3700)...  :/
> >
> >-Jody
> >
> >--
> >97 Blue Vortech Z28 -  Best ET: 13.100  Best MPH: 111.24 (Goodyear RS-A's)
> >361 rear-wheel hp @ 6000rpm,  359 rear-wheel ft-lbs @ 4400rpm
> >http://www.bit-net.com/~jshapiro/z28/
> 
> I was put onto an Australian site recently, they have kits including all
> software/cables/boards etc to program the Delco EMS's in most of our Holden
> (GM) cars.
> 
> have a look at....
> 
> http://white.aljan.com.au/~bradhost/
> 
> i really don't know if it would be at all of use to anyone, but hey.....


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 11:36:59 1998
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Subject: Re: Pressure Sensors & ION Eyes
References: <35528973.5A57@pacbell.net> <138CECC3D20@psc.fp.co.nz> <35582076.2264265@santaclara01.pop.internex.net> <35565267.2EC950DC@mwt.net> <35656917.20857796@santaclara01.pop.internex.net> <35575C75.2B45@pacbell.net> <35926dbf.87585234@santaclara01.pop.internex.net> <3557BCD9.5F1A@pacbell.net> <35aedef5.116567703@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
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Gar -

> Well, yeah, that's what I always thot was the point of them Dwyer
> two-piece pitot tubes, one to measure static, the other dynamic

Exactly. Was trying to separate the two parameters (pressure and 
velocity) for clarity. Failed dismally. Oh well.

> you HAVE to assume the velocity profile of the plumbing you're
> using, in order to get FLOW, don'tcha?

Idea is to measure pressure and velocity in a tube of known diameter -
Velocity profile of such is uncomplicated, accurately dimensioned 
pieces of pipe are easy to fab, and your 12" long 3" dia duct (to
pick some numbers) should give very similar results to mine.
Similar considerations apply to FI app. 

I like your MAF idea - I'm willing to cal them on my bench. I'm sure 
we can work out a protocol that'll put us all on the same page. Of 
course where (and if!) NBS is in my bench's lineage is another matter.

Jack


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From: John Hess <johnhess@cris.com>
Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
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 <35528973.5A57@pacbell.net>
 <138CECC3D20@psc.fp.co.nz>
 <35582076.2264265@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
 <35584D40.EFA3152B@cris.com>
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The times may not be changing all that much.  Just the sheer volume of off
topic subjects are inundating me and this was the one I was looking at when
the last straw fell.

At 06:20 AM 5/12/98 -0700, you wrote:
>On Tue, 12 May 1998 08:23:13 -0500, "John A. Hess" <johnhess@cris.com>
>wrote:
>
>>Pardon me if this is a dumb question;  but, what does a diy_flowbench have
>>to do with diy_efi?
>
>WOW, dude if you think THIS is off-topic, you cain't have been around
>the group very long!?? Funny, the last time this subject came up for a
>good round of discussion, I don't remember a single sole that
>complained. Oh well, I s'pose the times, they are a-changin?
>
>Gar
>
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 12:05:20 1998
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 11:05:03 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: John Hess <johnhess@cris.com>
Subject: Re: GM ECM Flash programmer
In-Reply-To: <35585C16.897EADC4@lucent.com>
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If you only want to use it on a single engine applicaton, TTS (The Turbo
Shop) sells a version of Master Tune for a single application for $295.00.

At 10:26 AM 5/12/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Jody,
>	Thanks for the pointer. I'm not in the business, just a
>weekend tinkerer. $3700 is not in my budget. I only paid
>$2500 for my 96 camaro engine & trans that I'm putting in my
>Street rod!!!
>
>	Does anyone know of a more reasonably priced solution for
>the individual. Hypertech is the only solution I've found
>that could be in my budget. There are a couple of nice
>shareware Eprom editors out there now. It's time to move on
>to the EEprom systems. I'm willing to try and come up with a
>simple piece of software to read and write the EEprom, but I
>haven't found any documents about the protocol GM used. 
>
>	If we could copy the EEprom to a bin, we might be able to
>start disassembling the LT1 programming. Just need the Peek
>and Poke protocol to get started. I have the ECM.
>
>		Ken
> 
>
>Jody Shapiro wrote:
>> 
>> On Sat, 9 May 1998 kenkelly@lucent.com wrote:
>> 
>> > 1) Has anyone found a shareware or reasonably priced software package to
>> > reprogram the 94 & up GM EEProm ECM's.
>> 
>> Steve Cole of The Turbo Shop sells his Mastertune software that will do
>> reprograms of those PCM's.  Not sure if you'll need the Pro version,
>> though ($3700)...  :/
>> 
>> -Jody
>> 
>> --
>> 97 Blue Vortech Z28 -  Best ET: 13.100  Best MPH: 111.24 (Goodyear RS-A's)
>> 361 rear-wheel hp @ 6000rpm,  359 rear-wheel ft-lbs @ 4400rpm
>> http://www.bit-net.com/~jshapiro/z28/
>
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 12:29:10 1998
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Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 12:32:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@problem.tantech.com>
In-Reply-To: <c=US%a=_%p=Indigo_Active_Vi%l=CRIANLARICH-980512132919Z-537@crianlarich.indigo-avs.com> from "Robert Humphris" at May 12, 98 02:29:19 pm
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> 
> It has nothing to do with it, but where better a place to discuss it?  I
> am not being faececious if there is a mailing list that deals with
> engine performance tuning I would be very interested in joining it.
> 
> And while we are on the subject... I have a scrap turbo, and I was
> thinking of using the compressor wheel to generate the suction for a
> small flow bench.  Is this a good idea?


you would have to gear it up massively to get any real suction from it
tubos need to spin in the 50-100k range to work

Clive 

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 12:42:54 1998
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 11:44:49 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: James Paul <jpfa@micro.ti.com>
Subject: Re: How do I reduce ignition noise. (HELP!!)
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   Chris,

  A few things I can think of right away would be.....

  1) Put the micro and it's associated circuitry inside a metal box and ground
     the box.

  2) Try using a ferrite choke where the wires enter the box.  Just wrap the
     wires through the ferrite core a couple of times.  This should reduce 
     RFI significantly.  By the way, RFI is the culprit.  It is generated 
     because of the high tension spark discharge is so wide band, it covers 
     most of the RF spectrum.  Just like lightning does to an AM radio.

  3) Use a low value resistor ( <2 ohms) shunted by a low value (.01 - .05 uF)
     capacitance in the power line to the microcontroller unit to aid isolation
     from the battery that also feeds the ignition system.   

  4) Add a .1 to .5 uF capacitor between power and ground at the micro to
     aid in transient suppression.  You might want to add a 10 to 20 uF 
     Tantalum cap here too in parallel with the .1 to .5 uF unit to aid
     transient suppression even more.  

  5) Bring ALL ground leads to a common point to prevent Ground loop currents.


    Hope these suggestions help.  Let me know how you do on your project.


                                                     Regards,

                                                        Jim





At 10:18 AM 5/12/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Chris Vandrachek wrote:
>> 
>> To all in EFT land:
>>         I have recently designed and built a simple EFT system based on a
>> Mot. HC12.  All has gone well until now.  I can't keep the MCU from
>> reseting whenever the ignition fires.  I am only a sophomore EE student so
>> I don't exactly know where to start.
>> 
>> Here is a quick outline:
>>         -The MCU is physically isolated from the coil etc (5ft), but they
>>         share the same battery.
>>         -I'm using a standard points ignition...I'd do a electronic, but I
>>         have to be done by this Friday.
>>         -The MCU supply is regulated with only a LM2935 (an automotive
>>         specific device).  Only a .1 cap on the inputs.
>>         -It seems that reset occurs most whenever a open arc is present,
>>         arcing in distributor cap included.
>>         -The problem is independent of my triggering pulse (from
>>         coil)...so I'm guessing it is due to voltage spikes/drops or it is
>>         "in the air" (EMF?).
>> 
>> I don't know what to do and I gotta have the done by Friday for a design
>> competition.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!
>>         Thanks,
>>           Chris Vondrachek
>>           EE student, University of Portland
>>           chrisv@egr.up.edu
>
>Chris Vandrachek wrote:
>
>> 
>
>> To all in EFT land:
>
>>         I have recently designed and built a simple EFT system based on a
>
>> Mot. HC12.  All has gone well until now.  I can't keep the MCU from
>
>> reseting whenever the ignition fires.  I am only a sophomore EE student so
>
>> I don't exactly know where to start.
>
>> 
>
>> Here is a quick outline:
>
>>         -The MCU is physically isolated from the coil etc (5ft), but they
>
>>         share the same battery.
>
>>         -I'm using a standard points ignition...I'd do a electronic, but I
>
>>         have to be done by this Friday.
>
>>         -The MCU supply is regulated with only a LM2935 (an automotive
>
>>         specific device).  Only a .1 cap on the inputs.
>
>>         -It seems that reset occurs most whenever a open arc is present,
>
>>         arcing in distributor cap included.
>
>>         -The problem is independent of my triggering pulse (from
>
>>         coil)...so I'm guessing it is due to voltage spikes/drops or it is
>
>>         "in the air" (EMF?).
>
>> 
>
>> I don't know what to do and I gotta have the done by Friday for a design
>
>> competition.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!
>
>>         Thanks,
>
>>           Chris Vondrachek
>
>>           EE student, University of Portland
>
>>           chrisv@egr.up.edu
>
>
>
> Chris,
>
> I would like to help but would need more info. My first
>
>guess (usually wrong!) would be to look at the circuit
>
>between the coil and the MCU.
>
>Have you tried an inductor in series with the power supply
>
>of the MCU board?
>
> If you like, email a circuit diagram.
>
>
>
>  Walter
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 13:04:21 1998
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 11:51:59 +0000
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Organization: International Meta Systems
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>So I guess I'd need to put a 5:1 resistor divider on EGORs output, run
>that to the standard O2 input, and change the 4 or 5 PROM bytes needed
>to deal with the different voltage profile.

Ludis, can you expand on this a little?  Is it that simple to change the
EGO profile in the ECM?

--
Steve Ravet
International Meta Systems
http://www.imes.com
steve@imes.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 13:41:09 1998
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Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
References: <35584D40.EFA3152B@cris.com>
	 <35528973.5A57@pacbell.net>
	 <138CECC3D20@psc.fp.co.nz>
	 <35582076.2264265@santaclara01.pop.internex.net>
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> >On Tue, 12 May 1998 08:23:13 -0500, "John A. Hess" <johnhess@cris.com>
> >wrote:
> >
> >>Pardon me if this is a dumb question;  but, what does a diy_flowbench have
> >>to do with diy_efi?

Hmmm. Torches ... the glint of pitchforks in the distance?

Possibly as relevant as how much water you can spray on your brakes
before the guy behind you turns on his wipers? Which fascinated me,
by the way, being innocent of racing brake tech.

All seriousness aside, I'm here for FI, of which accurate air flow
measurement is a significant component, and indeed the weak link in
the loop - You would'nt need a loop if the initial measurement was
accurate!

My two pfennig. Pace Joachim.

I'm particularly interested in MAF schemes - If they end up on
flow benches that's ok with me. In fact if Fred is listening how
'bout telling us about your shop vac/flow bench with the MAF sensor?

I guarantee a respectful audience of one.

Jack


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 13:52:50 1998
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From: "Al Sites" <al@b137a5.hacc.edu>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: small PC used as a Car mp3 player
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 13:51:13 -0400
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I just spoke to Ray at Advantech.  Pricing for the "Biscuit PC" are as
follows

Board: $357
Wires: $47
166mmx CPU: $121
CPU Fan: $10
32M Ram: $62

These prices are US.  Ray's phone # 408.330.9399 x507


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 14:02:29 1998
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Subject: Re: GM ECM Flash programmer
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John,
	$295 sounds a lot better. Do you have a Web site or phone #
for them? I did a web search for TTS, The Turbo Shop, Master
Tune, and MasterTune. It came up with nothing that seemed to
match your description.

		Ken

John Hess wrote:
> 
> If you only want to use it on a single engine applicaton, TTS (The Turbo
> Shop) sells a version of Master Tune for a single application for $295.00.
> 
> At 10:26 AM 5/12/98 -0400, you wrote:
> >Jody,
> >       Thanks for the pointer. I'm not in the business, just a
> >weekend tinkerer. $3700 is not in my budget. I only paid
> >$2500 for my 96 camaro engine & trans that I'm putting in my
> >Street rod!!!
> >
> >       Does anyone know of a more reasonably priced solution for
> >the individual. Hypertech is the only solution I've found
> >that could be in my budget. There are a couple of nice
> >shareware Eprom editors out there now. It's time to move on
> >to the EEprom systems. I'm willing to try and come up with a
> >simple piece of software to read and write the EEprom, but I
> >haven't found any documents about the protocol GM used.
> >
> >       If we could copy the EEprom to a bin, we might be able to
> >start disassembling the LT1 programming. Just need the Peek
> >and Poke protocol to get started. I have the ECM.
> >
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 14:16:20 1998
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 13:17:24 -0500
From: Walter Petermann <corsaro@brokersys.com>
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Chris Vandrachek wrote:
> 
> To all in EFT land:
>         I have recently designed and built a simple EFT system based on a
> Mot. HC12.  All has gone well until now.  I can't keep the MCU from
> reseting whenever the ignition fires.  I am only a sophomore EE student so
> I don't exactly know where to start.
> 
> Here is a quick outline:
>         -The MCU is physically isolated from the coil etc (5ft), but they
>         share the same battery.
>         -I'm using a standard points ignition...I'd do a electronic, but I
>         have to be done by this Friday.
>         -The MCU supply is regulated with only a LM2935 (an automotive
>         specific device).  Only a .1 cap on the inputs.
>         -It seems that reset occurs most whenever a open arc is present,
>         arcing in distributor cap included.
>         -The problem is independent of my triggering pulse (from
>         coil)...so I'm guessing it is due to voltage spikes/drops or it is
>         "in the air" (EMF?).
> 
> I don't know what to do and I gotta have the done by Friday for a design
> competition.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!
>         Thanks,
>           Chris Vondrachek
>           EE student, University of Portland
>           chrisv@egr.up.edu

Chris,
 one more thought:
 Are you sure that it's not a software problem? When the
coil fires are  you branching and possibly overwriting some
data with the stack?

 Walter

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 14:57:14 1998
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From: "H. J. Zivnak" <bztruck@email.msn.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: ION Eyes
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 11:55:34 -0700
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Well Alice, things keep getting curiouser and curiouser........

I was poking around at http://www.mecel.se/ on the patents page (with links
to fifteen different patents,including the original one!) when I spotted a
note that reads "Some of the patents listed below were originally issued the
the name of Saab-Scania AB, but have been transferred to Mecel AB when Mecel
became a wholly owned subsidiary of Delco Electronics Corp." A dim light
came on and I thought I remembered something about GM buying Saab. I checked
it out this morning and sure enough.... Saab is a division of GM/Opel! (Sort
of a Saab story <G>)

On their partners page Mecel has Delco Electronics and Delphi Automotive
Systems at the top of the list. Imagine that!

For those of you not familiar with the Delphi name, this is the group
responsible for selling GM products and technology to other OEMs.

Check out delphiauto.com/energy/energycatalog.html . Click on Ignition
Subsystems and (you guessed it!) you'll find "Ion Sense Ignition".

If its not under the hood of your Chevy today, it will probably be soon.

Have fun,
Joe


-----Original Message-----
From: garfield@pilgrimhouse.com <garfield@pilgrimhouse.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, May 12, 1998 7:15 AM
Subject: ION Eyes



>It seems almost a pity that this tech hasn't appeared yet in other car
>mfg's offerings. It doesn't appear that it's a function of exclusive
>patents on the part of SAAB, but rather that their guys actually got off
>their patented duffs and actually built something that would work. Makes
>me admire them Saab guys all the more.
>







From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 15:49:14 1998
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From: "H. J. Zivnak" <bztruck@email.msn.com>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 12:48:05 -0700
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Kinda feel like makin water instead of holden it? :-)
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: John Hess <johnhess@cris.com>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, May 12, 1998 9:49 AM
Subject: Re: Pressure Sensor for Flow Bench


>The times may not be changing all that much.  Just the sheer volume of off
>topic subjects are inundating me and this was the one I was looking at when
>the last straw fell.
>
>At 06:20 AM 5/12/98 -0700, you wrote:
>>On Tue, 12 May 1998 08:23:13 -0500, "John A. Hess" <johnhess@cris.com>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>Pardon me if this is a dumb question;  but, what does a diy_flowbench
have
>>>to do with diy_efi?
>>
>>WOW, dude if you think THIS is off-topic, you cain't have been around
>>the group very long!?? Funny, the last time this subject came up for a
>>good round of discussion, I don't remember a single sole that
>>complained. Oh well, I s'pose the times, they are a-changin?
>>
>>Gar
>>
>>
>>




From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 15:50:25 1998
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Subject: Re: ION Eyes
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 12:51:15 -0700
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On Tue, 12 May 1998 11:55:34 -0700, "H. J. Zivnak"
<bztruck@email.msn.com> wrote:

>Well Alice, things keep getting curiouser and curiouser........
>
>I was poking around at http://www.mecel.se/ on the patents page (with links
>to fifteen different patents,including the original one!) when I spotted a
>note that reads "Some of the patents listed below were originally issued the
>the name of Saab-Scania AB, but have been transferred to Mecel AB when Mecel
>became a wholly owned subsidiary of Delco Electronics Corp." A dim light
>came on and I thought I remembered something about GM buying Saab. I checked
>it out this morning and sure enough.... Saab is a division of GM/Opel! (Sort
>of a Saab story <G>)

Truly. Let's hope it's not just part of the "food-chain paradigm", and
they eat the goose that's laying these golden eggs.

Yeah, that's what Jim Crance was refering to when he said he used to be
able to play with the Saab stuff alot more, until GM took them over.

>Check out delphiauto.com/energy/energycatalog.html . Click on Ignition
>Subsystems and (you guessed it!) you'll find "Ion Sense Ignition".

Huh. The wonders of "acquisition". Reminds me of the Borg, on Star Trek.
Heh.

Gar


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 16:02:42 1998
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On Sun, 10 May 1998, Bruce Plecan wrote:
> Is there anyone working on the (747) 101 project that needs something?.

It's getting there, slowly...

I grabbed a shareware binary/hex editor from
   http://www.bpsoft.com  (Hex Workshop)
to do some chip compares. Looks to be pretty
nice so far. Even does a byte-by-byte compare
of 2 bin files.

General Device
  http://www.generaldevice.com (916-393-1655)
had some reasonable EPROM programmers. They
sell Needham's and others.

EPROMS.EPROMS.EPROMS
I've ordered some (~30) extra EPROMs (pulls) if
anyone is interested. They were $1ea+ship.

Now a coupla questions:
1) Where to get that darned "pink book" that
describes this delco derivative of the Motorola 
6801! I was trying to find the instruction set and
memory map without bugging Ludis anymore.  :)
Motorola is busy pushing 68HC11s on their
website.

2) Where'd you folks get assemblers/disassemblers? 
Are they shareware or freeware?


Bruce--
  I doubt I'll do the '730, but I
would like to dissect the '747 to death...
...and maybe the '783 also, pending my
understanding of the CPU.

-greg


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 17:32:06 1998
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From: Justin Albury <jalbury@tpgi.com.au>
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Eileen Tholey wrote:
> 
> The holden heads do not have a siamesed ports like the SBC.  They look like
> a BBC.  But how similar are these Holden V8s to the new small block II?  No
> need to go into great lenght, just curious.
> 

EFI heads are siamesed ! non efi heads are not!
sorry but i havnot seen the new BBC II yet

Justin

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 17:39:16 1998
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 17:38:46 -0400
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> General Device
>   http://www.generaldevice.com (916-393-1655)
> had some reasonable EPROM programmers. They
> sell Needham's and others.
> 
I just bought one from GDI, not too bad a unit, but if you are
looking at a MCT MEP 1,4, or 8, better have an old computer laying
around... Not rated to work according to MEP's docs with anything
faster than a 25 Mhz CPU... I used an old 286 laying around the
house and it works perfectly with that.
BTW, I bought the MEP 4A for $115...
Tom

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 18:29:41 1998
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There was some comment previously about a powerPC for automotive
applications.  Here's a bit of info that I got from a friend of mine
over at Summerset:

See:  Electronic Design, April 6, 1998 for
more details.  They call it "a full data aquisition, data
processing, and control system all integrated onto a single
piece of silicon."  I recommend tracking down this article.
See if anyone has it, or if you can find it on the web.

It has a 32-bit 40MHz POwerPC core (unsure of which one), an FPU,
flash memory, static RAM, plus a memory controller, A-to-D converters,
CAN 2.0B controllers, timer-processor units, UARTs, and some
other stuff.


--
Steve Ravet
International Meta Systems
http://www.imes.com
steve@imes.com

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 18:47:04 1998
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Subject: Re: GM ECM Flash programmer
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Hi Ken

I have been looking at the 8051 PCM.
Aldl communication is not difficult.
Just use the RS232 interface and software that was posted
to this net previously.

However to up load and download eeprom contents is a wee bit more
difficult. But similiar to aldl comms

email me if interested

:peter

At 10:26 AM 5/12/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Jody,
>	Thanks for the pointer. I'm not in the business, just a
>weekend tinkerer. $3700 is not in my budget. I only paid
>$2500 for my 96 camaro engine & trans that I'm putting in my
>Street rod!!!
>
>	Does anyone know of a more reasonably priced solution for
>the individual. Hypertech is the only solution I've found
>that could be in my budget. There are a couple of nice
>shareware Eprom editors out there now. It's time to move on
>to the EEprom systems. I'm willing to try and come up with a
>simple piece of software to read and write the EEprom, but I
>haven't found any documents about the protocol GM used. 
>
>	If we could copy the EEprom to a bin, we might be able to
>start disassembling the LT1 programming. Just need the Peek
>and Poke protocol to get started. I have the ECM.
>
>		Ken
> 
>
>Jody Shapiro wrote:
>> 
>> On Sat, 9 May 1998 kenkelly@lucent.com wrote:
>> 
>> > 1) Has anyone found a shareware or reasonably priced software package to
>> > reprogram the 94 & up GM EEProm ECM's.
>> 
>> Steve Cole of The Turbo Shop sells his Mastertune software that will do
>> reprograms of those PCM's.  Not sure if you'll need the Pro version,
>> though ($3700)...  :/
>> 
>> -Jody
>> 
>> --
>> 97 Blue Vortech Z28 -  Best ET: 13.100  Best MPH: 111.24 (Goodyear RS-A's)
>> 361 rear-wheel hp @ 6000rpm,  359 rear-wheel ft-lbs @ 4400rpm
>> http://www.bit-net.com/~jshapiro/z28/
>
>
>


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Subject: Re: 2 stroke injection
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Actually, the Bimota Vdue was a pig because of poor process control.
Basically their cylinder manufacturer wasn't keeping a close eye on the
transfer port location and turned a road-race motor into a lawn-tractor.

Honda has several papers published on EFI on two-strokes.  Big thing to
remember is influence of pipe tuning on VE.  Which is why they had
cylinder pressure transducers hooked into the ECU, instead of a simple
speed-density.  Other thing is misfire detection, cause misfire causes
pipe tuning (temperature) to change instantly and the ECU needs to lean
out or the cylinder dies of way-too-rich.  A MAF can do it, but you
need one MAF per cylinder.  Anyhow, carbs do the same job for a whole
lot less complexity.
---------------------- Forwarded by John R Bucknell/JTE/Chrysler on
05/12/98 03:50 PM ---------------------------

        owner-diy_efi @ efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
        05/12/98 12:02 PM
Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu @ SMTP
To: diy_efi @ efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu @ SMTP
cc:
Subject: Re: 2 stroke injection

If you want to try 2-stroke injection, check out the Bimota Duo
(http://www.sepnet.com/cycle/misc.htm#Bimota is a place to start), a
fuel
injected 500cc twin bike.  It was designed as a Grand Prix engine but it
never made the power to compete with the V4's. Bimota tried to recoup
the
cost of development by turning it into a road bike but the emission
controls made it into a pig.  Looks nice though.
gus


At 07:47 12/05/98 -0400, gary wrote:
>No 2 stroke but I have done lots of work with Bosch mechanical fuel
>injection years ago.  These units inject over a fairly small crank
angle.  I
>would be concerned about proper lubrication or some uncontrolled strati
fied
>charge with only a timed injector pulse(lots of air with a slug of fuel
>swirling around).  Injector pulse proportional to throttle would
create some
>problems as the VE curve has some great peaks and valleys.  Just my 2
cents.
>
>Gary Derian <gderian@cybergate.net>
>
>>Anybody ever tried mechanical injection, like a diesel pump, on a 2
>>stroke gas engine?Figure the oil in the mix would handle lubrication
OK
>>- but would it work? Not talking direct injection, just port, timed
>>injection on a V4 Evinrude.Pressure reduced from doozle pressure, and
>>injection volume determined strictly by throttle opening, with
possible
>>manual mixture control.
>>                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
>
>
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 19:42:42 1998
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From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@online.no>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 2 stroke injection
Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 01:38:49 +0200
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if I had the time and the money,I would try fitting a timed seqential efi
to a
two stroker.I would figure out where to put 2 injectors,over the transfer
ports and
just under ekshaust port( in higth) ,I  would aim them sligtly uppwards
against the spark
plug.I think I had to use two injectors because of the short time to
inject.
standard injectors directly into the cylinder.....
Mercury dfi  uses 80% less fuel at idle......
I tryed to take a exshaust HC test on a Mercury 200 efi  ,It showed the
same 
figures as if you put the probe inside a gas tank and messure the fumes....
2000-3000 ppm HC 
very little difference in consumption at max torque.dfi better at slow
running and high rpm.
Espen Hilde
> From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
> To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> Subject: 2 stroke injection
> Date: 12. mai 1998 05:18
> 
> Anybody ever tried mechanical injection, like a diesel pump, on a 2
> stroke gas engine?Figure the oil in the mix would handle lubrication OK
> - but would it work? Not talking direct injection, just port, timed
> injection on a V4 Evinrude.Pressure reduced from doozle pressure, and
> injection volume determined strictly by throttle opening, with possible
> manual mixture control.
> -- 
Maybe you must have some oil coming in by the air stream to, to lubricate
the crank shaft bearings.
>                                _/\_
>                        --|-----([])-----|--
>                          S    0/  \0    B
>          Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
>                   E-Mail service is back to normal
>                   To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
>                     Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
>                                 OR
> Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
> spammers!!!
> It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
> Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 20:16:51 1998
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From: "Jake Lindeke" <jlindeke@bsfh.org>
Organization: Supra Owners Group International
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 20:23:11 -0400
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Subject: Re: small PC used as a Car mp3 player
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> I just spoke to Ray at Advantech.  Pricing for the "Biscuit PC" are as
> follows
> 
> Board: $357
> Wires: $47
> 166mmx CPU: $121
> CPU Fan: $10
> 32M Ram: $62
> 
> These prices are US.  Ray's phone # 408.330.9399 x507

Is this the small computer that fits in a din slot in a  car?

--Jake Lindeke
--SOGI South-East Chapter Coordinator
--http://sesogi.bsfh.org

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 20:49:16 1998
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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 20:53:01 -0400
From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
Organization: Snyder Enterprises
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Espen Hilde wrote:
> 
> if I had the time and the money,I would try fitting a timed seqential efi
> to a
> two stroker.I would figure out where to put 2 injectors,over the transfer
> ports and
> just under ekshaust port( in higth) ,I  would aim them sligtly uppwards
> against the spark
> plug.I think I had to use two injectors because of the short time to
> inject.
> standard injectors directly into the cylinder.....
> Mercury dfi  uses 80% less fuel at idle......
> I tryed to take a exshaust HC test on a Mercury 200 efi  ,It showed the
> same
> figures as if you put the probe inside a gas tank and messure the fumes....
> 2000-3000 ppm HC
> very little difference in consumption at max torque.dfi better at slow
> running and high rpm.
> Espen Hilde
> > From: Clare Snyder <snyder@huron.net>
> > To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
> > Subject: 2 stroke injection
> > Date: 12. mai 1998 05:18
> >
> > Anybody ever tried mechanical injection, like a diesel pump, on a 2
> > stroke gas engine?Figure the oil in the mix would handle lubrication OK
> > - but would it work? Not talking direct injection, just port, timed
> > injection on a V4 Evinrude.Pressure reduced from doozle pressure, and
> > injection volume determined strictly by throttle opening, with possible
> > manual mixture control.
> > --
> Maybe you must have some oil coming in by the air stream to, to lubricate
> the crank shaft bearings.
> >                                _/\_
> >                        --|-----([])-----|--
> >                          S    0/  \0    B
> >          Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
> >                   E-Mail service is back to normal
> >                   To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
> >                     Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
> >                                 OR
> > Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
> > spammers!!!
> > It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
> > Turkeys!!!


with DFI, how do they handle the crankshaft lubrication? Do they just
inject oil spray into the crankcase at the inlet port? Somehow this oil
has to travel throughout the engine.I am thinking more along the line of
"port" injection, like in an SFI automotive system.
-- 
                               _/\_
                       --|-----([])-----|--
                         S    0/  \0    B
         Alls well that ends well!! www.snyder.on.ca is back
                  E-Mail service is back to normal
                  To avoid bouncing E-Mail messages
                    Reply to Clare@snyder.on.ca
                                OR
Remove the R from clsnyder in my E-Mail Address to reply. Stop the
spammers!!!
It's hard to soar like an eagle when your stuck with a bunch of
Turkeys!!!

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 21:18:24 1998
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On exchange rates :::: Try this site, it works great

http://www.oanda.com/cgi-bin/ncc

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 21:40:00 1998
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TTS Power Systems
1280 Kona Drive
Compton, CA
90220
310-669-8101

At 01:58 PM 5/12/98 -0400, you wrote:
>John,
>	$295 sounds a lot better. Do you have a Web site or phone #
>for them? I did a web search for TTS, The Turbo Shop, Master
>Tune, and MasterTune. It came up with nothing that seemed to
>match your description.
>
>		Ken
>
>John Hess wrote:
>> 
>> If you only want to use it on a single engine applicaton, TTS (The Turbo
>> Shop) sells a version of Master Tune for a single application for $295.00.
>> 
>> At 10:26 AM 5/12/98 -0400, you wrote:
>> >Jody,
>> >       Thanks for the pointer. I'm not in the business, just a
>> >weekend tinkerer. $3700 is not in my budget. I only paid
>> >$2500 for my 96 camaro engine & trans that I'm putting in my
>> >Street rod!!!
>> >
>> >       Does anyone know of a more reasonably priced solution for
>> >the individual. Hypertech is the only solution I've found
>> >that could be in my budget. There are a couple of nice
>> >shareware Eprom editors out there now. It's time to move on
>> >to the EEprom systems. I'm willing to try and come up with a
>> >simple piece of software to read and write the EEprom, but I
>> >haven't found any documents about the protocol GM used.
>> >
>> >       If we could copy the EEprom to a bin, we might be able to
>> >start disassembling the LT1 programming. Just need the Peek
>> >and Poke protocol to get started. I have the ECM.
>> >
>>
>
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 22:05:11 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Misc 101 stuff
Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 19:03:39 -0700
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GME has a hex editor built in. Just load whatever binary you like even if it
not for that version of GME. The program doesn't care about length. Sure,
the spark and stuff won't be correct, but the hex editor (Direct Edit) will
work.

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Gregory A. Parmer <gparmer@acesag.auburn.edu>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Tuesday, May 12, 1998 1:48 PM
Subject: Re: Misc 101 stuff


>
>On Sun, 10 May 1998, Bruce Plecan wrote:
>> Is there anyone working on the (747) 101 project that needs something?.
>
>It's getting there, slowly...
>
>I grabbed a shareware binary/hex editor from
>   http://www.bpsoft.com  (Hex Workshop)
>to do some chip compares. Looks to be pretty
>nice so far. Even does a byte-by-byte compare
>of 2 bin files.
>
>General Device
>  http://www.generaldevice.com (916-393-1655)
>had some reasonable EPROM programmers. They
>sell Needham's and others.
>
>EPROMS.EPROMS.EPROMS
>I've ordered some (~30) extra EPROMs (pulls) if
>anyone is interested. They were $1ea+ship.
>
>Now a coupla questions:
>1) Where to get that darned "pink book" that
>describes this delco derivative of the Motorola
>6801! I was trying to find the instruction set and
>memory map without bugging Ludis anymore.  :)
>Motorola is busy pushing 68HC11s on their
>website.
>
>2) Where'd you folks get assemblers/disassemblers?
>Are they shareware or freeware?
>
>
>Bruce--
>  I doubt I'll do the '730, but I
>would like to dissect the '747 to death...
>...and maybe the '783 also, pending my
>understanding of the CPU.
>
>-greg
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 22:32:08 1998
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On Thu, 7 May 1998 09:42:03 +0100 Robert Humphris
<r.humphris@indigo-avs.com> writes:
>The point with the Wankel is that it is a 1.3, where as a Camaro is
>what, 3 times that displacement? Yet they have similar performance.  Add
>that to the weight of the engine, which does add to the performance of
>the car ( less weight = better power to weight ratio, and better
>handling as the car ceases to be engine heavy, so you start getting
>easier moments of force on the car ).
>Lets compare like for like, I guarentee that if you added sufficent
>number of rotors to take the displacement to that of the Camaro, fuel
>injected it, you would be unable to out drag it.  Then if you take the
>same displacement as the Saturn ( What is one of these we don't have
>that model over here in the UK ) and put it in a similar weight car,
>that the engine would be just as lively, and the performance would be 
>as
>good if not better as the weight would be less.
>
>Two stroke direct injection engines?  We will see what they are like
>when they are mass produced.
>
>Rob Humphris

I'm not really trying to trash the Wankel.  It has characteristics tha
make it useful in some situations.

I purposely ignored the whole displacement issue.  If I created an engine
that I could put into a Hummer and make it perform like a Camaro and get
30 miles per gallon, would you be impressed?  Would it matter if the
engine was a ten liter engine?  I know that it wouldn't make a bit of a
difference to me.  If it weighed more, it would make a difference, but
not enough for me to discard the idea.

When you're rating different designs of engines against each other, you
can't use something like displacement as a measuring stick.  Let's treat
the devices as black boxes.  We look at what goes in, what comes out, and
its physical size and mass.  While we're at it, let's look at how long it
lasts.

We find that the Wankel has a better power/weight ratio.  All other
things being equal, that would definitely give the Wankel the edge,
especially in applications where weight is a big concern.

The Wankel doesn't shine at all in the gas consumption ratings.  It is
acceptable, but not great.

When it comes to maintenance, the Wankel really falls down.  Granted, you
can get it to last with some special techniques.  In most of the
discussions I have seen, however, the discussion was about how to make it
last long enough to win a race.

The average driver wants to put the key in the ignition and go.  He might
be bothered to take it to the local Minit-Lube for an oil change once in
a while, but he certainly doesn't want to be pouring 2-stroke oil into
his gas or anything like that.  In fact, I was told by an engineer that
the reason that production cars don't use water injection is because they
don't want the drivers to have to use more than one consumable liquid.

So, we find that the Wankel is useful in some applications.  A few people
put them into experimental aircraft because weight is a real issue in
aircraft.  Reliability is an even bigger issue, so it's going to remain a
VERY few until the engineers manage to get the Wankel to be reliable in
the long term.  I'm not holding my breath because they have had quite a
few years to work on that issue.

We see them used in racing because the engine only has to last one race
and fuel consumption isn't a big issue.

One car company is putting them into a production car, and that car is
selling enough for them to keep making it, but not enough for them to
attempt to use the engine in a bunch of other models.  Nor are the other
auto manufactures making any plans to use it.

Why is that?  It goes back to my earlier message.  When you look at the
whole vehicle, you find that there aren't really any improvements.

WHen you choose a car, you realize that you have to give up gas mileage
to get performance, and vice versa.  If the Wankel would let you have
both (the power of a Camaro with the mileage of a Satuurn), the cars with
that engine would sell like hotcakes.  As it is, what you see is a car
with an exotic engine, average performance and fuel consumption, and some
reliability problems.  When the salesman tells you that the engine is
lighter than the Camaro's, and only displaces 1.3 liters, you might say
"Gee, that's impressive" and go buy something else.

Ray Drouillard

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From diy_efi-owner  Tue May 12 23:20:48 1998
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The spark plug wires and plugs should be of the resistive type to help
eliminate some of the noise.  Good luck...

See ya,

Mike

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 00:41:59 1998
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Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 00:39:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: Alain Toussaint <alaint@boisfrancs.qc.ca>
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To: DIY list <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: [nc] Win DRM 383 Grand Sport Corvette #351  (fwd)
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.3.96.980513003530.1177A-100000@main>
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good luck,wish i had 50$,i know it's off topic but then,on such a
thing,it's worth a forwarding

Alain

p.s.check the spec of the motor,totally awesome

-----------------forwarded message---------------------------------------

A total of 1000 tickets at $50.00 will be sold to raffle off a Doug Rippie
Motors 383 Grand Sport Corvette.  The drawing will be held the evening of
July 28, 1998, and the planned site of the drawing will be in the parking
lot of Fuddruckers in Lake Forest, CA.  You need NOT be present to win the
car.  I have already bought one of the tickets, and I intend to win this car. ;)

If you would like to win this car, call the following telephone number:
(949) 360-9004.

1996 Grand Sport Corvette Coupe #351 of 750.
New 383 CID LT4 Race Motor
Only 3000 miles on new motor
12800 miles on the car

The following list of modifications have been done to the motor and the car.

Suspension
-------------------
1) Hiem Jointed Sway Bars Front and Rear Fully Adjustable
2) Polyurethane Bushings Front Complete
3) Adjustable Lower Racing Strut Rods Hiem Jointed
4) Steel Braided Lines on All 4 Calipers
5) Adjustable Brake Bias Spring in Master Cylinder
6) Carbon Metallic Racing Brake Pads
7) Kumho V7000 Racing Tires
8) Road Racing Alignment
9) Custom Racing Valved Bilstein Shocks
10) Solid 30 mm Front Sway Bar and 25mm Rear Sway Bar

Drivetrain
---------------------
1) Balanced and Blueprinted Driveshaft and Half Shafts
2) HD. Spicer Solid Steel U Joints
3) Single Mass Clutch w/ 15 lb. Lighter Flywheel
4) Dual Friction Centerforce Disk and Pressure Plate

Motor
---------------------
1) 383 CID 12.50:1 DRM Race Motor--All Parts Balanced to (0.00)
2) 4 Bolt Main LT4 Cast Iron Block Blueprinted Race Prepared
3) Light Weight 4340 Forged Steel Callies Crankshaft 3.750 Stroke
4) JE Pistons 4.030 Short Skirt w/ Speed Pro Rings
5) Pro Flow Manley Stainless Steel Valves 2.02 Intake 1.60 Exhaust
6) Crane Triple Springs with 3/8" Retainers
7) Chrome Moly Push Rods
8) AFR Hydra Rev Kit Good for No Valve Float to 9500 RPM
9) Custom Roller Cam Shaft, Specs Are for the Winner Only!
10) Crane Gold 1.6 3/8" Rockers w/ Hardened Guide Plates
11) Custom Race Port and Polished LT4 Heads
12) Huge Custom LT4 Ported Intake Manifold Matched to the Heads
13) Eagle ESP 3D Light Weight H Beam X-rayed Race Rod 6.00"
14) Mains, Rods, Rockers, Heads Are All Fastened w/ Top Quality ARP
15) 1050 CFM ASM Throttle Body
16) 2 High Volume Fuel Pumps
17) Ram Air Kit with Custom Sooth Bore Air Intake Housings
18) High Volume Oil Pump Mellings
19) Custom 7 Qt. Road Racing Oil Pan.  Motor Holds 10 Qts.
20) HD. Oil Cooler with Electric Fan and a System 1 Oil Filter
21) Custom Long Tube Tri Y Headers 1-3/4" Collector
22) Custom 3 Inch Mandrel Bent Exhaust w/ Hooker Aero Chambers
23) DRM Programmed OBD II Computer w/ Locked VE Tables
24) MSD Ignition Box
25) Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
26) Hal Meter w/ Dual O2 Sensors
27) Line Locks
28) 150 HP NOS Wet System 20 lb. Bottle w/ Purge
29) 1.75" 0.095 Wall Seamless Tubing Roll Bar
30) 5 pt. Harness on Both Seats
31) Lots of Spare Parts---Too Many to List

This car is currently set up for autocross in SCCA Solo2 Events in Class BSP
or BP
This car is intended off highway use and not (currently) smog legal
Only 1000 raffle tickets will be sold at $50.00 each
Car is raffled as is with no warranty
All taxes local, state, or federal are the winner's responsibility
All licensing and applicable DMV fees are assumed by the winner
The car is currently registered, and tags expire in April of 1999

For ticket information, call (949) 360-9004




From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 02:10:49 1998
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Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 01:12:07 -0500
From: Walter Petermann <corsaro@brokersys.com>
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While rummaging around the internet I found this tutorial on
pressure sensors this group might be interested in:

http://gumbo.bae.lsu.edu/~krobbins/Pressure.html

It was referenced in another site in which you might find
some useful electronics information 

http://www.iserv.net/~alexx/lib/test.htm

regards
 Walter

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 02:31:23 1998
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From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: How do I reduce ignition noise. (HELP!!)
In-Reply-To: <Pine.GSO.3.95.980512000115.1202B-100000@upsun28.egr.up.edu
 >
References: <35575D3C.274D@tpgi.com.au>
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Start off by getting a scope on the reset line and lookin at what it sees,
this is start point one. Next check the power supply with the scope and see
what kind of trash is on that.  A filter cap large uF size and a .1uF will
help, look at the powersupply for the SUBDRV board on the EFI Ftp site for
simple power supply. Run the CPU off a seperate supply and see if it still
resets. If so, then you may not have enough supply to run a coil and the
CPU from the same. All external leads that attach to the PC board and
sensors are antenna and will bring back a load of crap into the CPU and
related circuits,  again, check the amount of trash with a scope. A simple
filter can help, check out mouser/digikey for some EMI/RFI filters.
Grounds are very inportant, good grounds and shileding are mandatory. Also
in general, check for good design rules in the CPU board, all parts should
have a bypass cap close to the VCC and GND as pratical, and the last gasp
for getting it working is to have the CPU IN A METAL BOX. Again note that
the leads will act as antenna right into the box, so a ferrite bead on the
incomming wires may also help.

Just some things to try, but use the scope as a way to see what is really
getting hosed, could just be the power supply boucing from the kick of the
coil, could be the reset line and bouncing, could be a lot o' things, but
start with the scope on the power and work around. If you don't see a lot,
put in metal box, and filter all leads into the box. The Halltech unit when
I openend it up (thus voiding the warrenty) really didn't have a lot, but
they have it pretty well shielded in the metal case so that alone may be
the problem.

One question, if you did anything with wirewrap, it will not work. ;-) Lots
of antennas...

Sandy (rambeling, and spelling badly)

At 01:10 AM 5/12/98 -0700, you wrote:
>To all in EFT land:
>	I have recently designed and built a simple EFT system based on a
>Mot. HC12.  All has gone well until now.  I can't keep the MCU from
>reseting whenever the ignition fires.  I am only a sophomore EE student so
>I don't exactly know where to start.  
>
>Here is a quick outline:
>	-The MCU is physically isolated from the coil etc (5ft), but they
>	share the same battery.
>	-I'm using a standard points ignition...I'd do a electronic, but I
>	have to be done by this Friday.  
>	-The MCU supply is regulated with only a LM2935 (an automotive
>	specific device).  Only a .1 cap on the inputs.
>	-It seems that reset occurs most whenever a open arc is present,
>	arcing in distributor cap included.
>	-The problem is independent of my triggering pulse (from
>	coil)...so I'm guessing it is due to voltage spikes/drops or it is 
>	"in the air" (EMF?).
>
>I don't know what to do and I gotta have the done by Friday for a design
>competition.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!	
>	Thanks,
>	  Chris Vondrachek
>          EE student, University of Portland
>  	  chrisv@egr.up.edu
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 02:50:38 1998
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Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 15:49:44 +1000
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Wayne Blair <wayneb@foxboro.com.au>
Subject: Re: the aussie V8, direct petrol injection, exchange rates
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> Also aftermarket cast cranks in 3.5 and 3.75 strokes
any idea on cost of these cranks....ideally the ones that will take
standard Chev rods 

$1500 to $2000

> can bore a perkins (another great aussie racer) block to 4.125
>Never heard of these blocks 
read more ;^)
>....are they cast by Holden for Perkins ?? 
I beleive so,  when he was running 304s and slide injection and the rest
using 302 (+3) chevs and 302 fords.

> 
> Also much of the direct petrol injection system employed are made under
> licence to the aussie orbital engine company.
What parts in particular ??
you may find answers here:
http://www.orbeng.com.au/

currency exchange rates:
http://www.oanda.com/cgi-bin/ncc
http://www.dna.lth.se/cgi-bin/kurt/rates



wayne

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 02:57:45 1998
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Subject: Re: GM ECM Flash programmer
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>	Interesting product! I took a quick look at the site. I
>	still haven't quite figured it out yet. Looks like they
>	actually replace the Memcal with a custom board. 

A battery backed ram dallas ????? replaces the eprom  add a write/read wire
from main board

Use diagnostic protocl to write at eprom, or hook into comms interrupt
(educated guessing here).
Then tune live 

>They dolist some 5.7 liter & 4L60E PCM's, but their discussion
>sounds like our older TPI batch fire systems rather than the
>Sequential LT1. 

Precisily

> I will look at the numbers on my PCM
> tonight and see if it is one of the ones they support. It is
> not obvious if there Memcal will work on the LT-1, 

dunno

>or why they replace the memcal. 

see above


wayne

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 08:17:24 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Hondo O2 sensors for Oz
Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 08:18:02 -0400
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If ya'all wanna find them locally, the part no. is 36531-PO7-003,
or if they are too expensive down there, get together and maybe
someone here in US will do a single large shipment.
  I personally don't know where to start on this, but I don't want 
ya left out in the cold..
  If ya run into trouble, or not being able to find them, get together,
find someone to organize your end, and have him e-mail me, and
we'll think things out.
  I'm at     nacelp@bright.net
Cheers
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 08:40:41 1998
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From: "Al Sites" <al@b137a5.hacc.edu>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: small PC used as a Car mp3 player
Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 08:39:05 -0400
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> I just spoke to Ray at Advantech.  Pricing for the "Biscuit PC" are as
> follows
>
> Board: $357
> Wires: $47
> 166mmx CPU: $121
> CPU Fan: $10
> 32M Ram: $62
>
> These prices are US.  Ray's phone # 408.330.9399 x507

Is this the small computer that fits in a din slot in a  car?

This is the computer used for the mp3 player.  See the page at
http://utter.chaos.org.uk/~altman/mp3mobile/


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 08:59:14 1998
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From: cmorris@ix.netcom.com (Charles)
To: diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: interference
Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 12:57:32 GMT
Message-ID: <355a9778.1137222@smtp.ix.netcom.com>
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On Wed, 13 May 1998 02:50:47 -0400, you wrote:

>One question, if you did anything with wirewrap, it will not work. ;-) Lots
>of antennas...
>
>Sandy (rambeling, and spelling badly)

	I beg to differ. I am running a wire-wrap breadboard to control
two additional fuel injectors for my turbo BMW. Tossed it in the
glovebox and hooked up the wires. It has never missed a beat despite
the presence of an MSD-6 (multispark) ignition, and it doesn't even
have a watchdog reset (a quickie design). Works so well that I never
got around to spending the $250 or so to have a PC board made.
	I have built some high-speed circuits that worked better on the
bench as wirewrap boards than when produced as PC boards with all
those parallel traces coupling into each other...

-Charles
p.s. "rambling"  ;)

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 09:05:01 1998
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To: diy_efi@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic.breitwieser@xephic.dynip.com>
Subject: Re: Boingers
In-Reply-To: <19980512.222430.16406.0.Cosmic.Ray@juno.com>
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>that I could put into a Hummer and make it perform like a Camaro and get
>30 miles per gallon, would you be impressed?  Would it matter if the
>engine was a ten liter engine?  I know that it wouldn't make a bit of a

Not only would it impress *ME*, I'd immediately buy one and shove it into
my 500HP 5mpg Hummer.

>discussions I have seen, however, the discussion was about how to make it
>last long enough to win a race.

Another factor in this is most rotary's I've seen on the track don't rev at
5000 RPM either... they scream away at much higher RPMs.

You brought up some good points Ray.


Frederic Breitwieser
Bridgeport, CT 06606

Homebrew Automotive Website:
http://www.xephic.dynip.com/

1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental
1989 HMMWV
2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car

-

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 09:39:00 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Hondo O2 sensors for Oz
Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 06:39:46 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Wed, 13 May 1998 08:18:02 -0400, "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
wrote:

>If ya'all wanna find them locally, the part no. is 36531-PO7-003,
>or if they are too expensive down there, get together and maybe
>someone here in US will do a single large shipment.

Oooops, minor tweak needed on the above:
	36531-P07-003
Note that the letter after the P is a zero, not an Oh.

>  I personally don't know where to start on this, but I don't want 
>ya left out in the cold..

I really don't imagine this will be any kinda problem. You'd be
absolutely amazed at how "customer oriented" your parts manager will
become when he finds out you're proposing a sizeable buy of bits that
each run around $100. Runs his parts dept. numbers up nice and quick.
Just a couple people willing to front the buy to their own local Honda
dealership would put those dealers sorta in competition for which one
would offer the best deal. Course, we're also talking big money here,
since just 20 of these puppies and yer up to around $2K already. Not
something anyone would wanna do without the money up front; remember
most all automotive electrical parts are NOT returnable. B)

On our aviation group (about 1/3 are from down undah), we're using a
fair amount of Subaru parts, and our first wee group buy was over $1KUS.
With those dollar amounts on a single transaction, the dealer gave us
30% over his COST, which in most cases was still dang near 50% off of
list. Those savings easily paid for even intl. shipping. Just an
example.

Last but not least (this is a recording), I gotta WARN y'all, once more,
with feeling; PLEASE DO NOT be going out plunkin down your hard-earned
cash and buying one of these sensors until we have completed the testing
on EGOR. It isn't gonna be long now, and if we run into a problem, you
could end up with an expensive Christmas tree ornament for next holiday
season. Don't do it; it's foolish to rush ahead. Nough said.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 10:10:21 1998
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Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 00:09:41 +1000
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: Re: GM ECM Flash programmer
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>	Looks like the price starts at $695 in Australian $, anyone
>know the current exchange rate?


$695 Aus  would be around (roughly) $1070 US

$1 Aus = $0.65 US


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 10:25:50 1998
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Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 00:25:33 +1000
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
Subject: Re: GM ECM Flash programmer
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At 03:45  12/05/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi Ken
>
>I have been looking at the 8051 PCM.
>Aldl communication is not difficult.
>Just use the RS232 interface and software that was posted
>to this net previously.


Software, where?

must have been b4 i started....   where do I get me a copy?


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 11:16:06 1998
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Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 11:22:30 -0400
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Subject: Re: GM ECM Flash programmer
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Matthew Harding wrote:
> 
> >       Looks like the price starts at $695 in Australian $, anyone
> >know the current exchange rate?
> 
> $695 Aus  would be around (roughly) $1070 US
> 
> $1 Aus = $0.65 US

Actually, $695 Australian is $437.16 (using yahoo's currency
converter)... I think you divided when you should have multiplyed....
-Jamie
-- 
Misspellers of the world untie!

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 11:17:38 1998
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	 <3.0.5.32.19980512194723.007c52a0@mail.qonline.com.au> <3.0.5.32.19980514000941.007a6b70@mail.qonline.com.au>
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Matt,
	Thanks for the exchange rate, but I think you applied it
backwards. 

AJDLegere sent me the address of a currency converter:

http://www.oanda.com/cgi-bin/ncc

I think you applied the ratio backwards.

695 AUD = 441 USD according to that web page.

		Ken

Matthew Harding wrote:
> 
> >       Looks like the price starts at $695 in Australian $, anyone
> >know the current exchange rate?
> 
> $695 Aus  would be around (roughly) $1070 US
> 
> $1 Aus = $0.65 US


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 11:36:11 1998
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From: Mike Hoenes <MHoenes@dhr.state.nc.us>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 91 IROC L98 Bin file Offset question
Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 11:35:00 -0400
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For a 1227730 ECU -
Comparing a stock file to a VATS disable file there are only two
differences.
One is at 0016 - which the stock 10 is changed to 00 (i understand that this
is the VATS/NOVATS flag )
The other is at offset 0008.  Stock is 8D, the VATS disable file has AA.
Can anyone tell me what offset 0008 is for?
Also, does anyone have a map to the offsets to disable warning codes for a
730?

TIA

mike
 - 

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From: mdill@lsil.com (Mike Dillon)
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: GM ECM Flash programmer
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Hey Matt, 

	Whats a factor of 2 when we are just talking roughly :) 
  695.00 Aus * (0.65 US/1.00 Aus) = 695.00 X 0.65 US = 451.75 
  Remember units are our friends.

Mike D. 


> From diy_efi-owner@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu Wed May 13 10:12 CDT 1998
> From: Matthew Harding <mharding@qonline.com.au>
> 
> >	Looks like the price starts at $695 in Australian $, anyone
> >know the current exchange rate?
> 
> 
> $695 Aus  would be around (roughly) $1070 US
> 
> $1 Aus = $0.65 US
> 
> 
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 12:40:27 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: interference
In-Reply-To: <355a9778.1137222@smtp.ix.netcom.com>
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Your lucky! ;-)

>	I beg to differ. I am running a wire-wrap breadboard to control
>two additional fuel injectors for my turbo BMW. Tossed it in the
>glovebox and hooked up the wires. It has never missed a beat despite
>the presence of an MSD-6 (multispark) ignition, and it doesn't even
>have a watchdog reset (a quickie design). Works so well that I never
>got around to spending the $250 or so to have a PC board made.
>	I have built some high-speed circuits that worked better on the
>bench as wirewrap boards than when produced as PC boards with all
>those parallel traces coupling into each other...
>
>-Charles
>p.s. "rambling"  ;)
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 13:00:16 1998
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From: Mike Jones <rmjones@cyberhighway.net>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: 2 stroke injection
Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 10:55:33 -0700
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OMC does it with seperate oil injection to the crankcase.

Mike J.

p.s. sorry if this is accomanied by a winmail.dat.  It SAYS off, but sometimes the damn thing gets attached anyway...


>>Clare Snyder wrote:


with DFI, how do they handle the crankshaft lubrication? Do they just
inject oil spray into the crankcase at the inlet port? Somehow this oil
has to travel throughout the engine.I am thinking more along the line of
"port" injection, like in an SFI automotive system.>>
-- 


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 14:06:32 1998
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I also beg to differ, I have personally run DSP wirewraps at about 20 MHz. If the
breadboard is a wirewrap, it is possible to wrap a ground grid. Simply attach
every ground to every other one, forming a grid of ground wires. It does wonders
for reducing noise.

Good luck





cmorris@ix.netcom.com on 05/13/98 08:57:32 AM

Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu

To:   diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
cc:    (bcc: Joe Dzura/SED/CSC)
Subject:  Re: interference




On Wed, 13 May 1998 02:50:47 -0400, you wrote:
>One question, if you did anything with wirewrap, it will not work. ;-) Lots
>of antennas...
>
>Sandy (rambeling, and spelling badly)
     I beg to differ. I am running a wire-wrap breadboard to control
two additional fuel injectors for my turbo BMW. Tossed it in the
glovebox and hooked up the wires. It has never missed a beat despite
the presence of an MSD-6 (multispark) ignition, and it doesn't even
have a watchdog reset (a quickie design). Works so well that I never
got around to spending the $250 or so to have a PC board made.
     I have built some high-speed circuits that worked better on the
bench as wirewrap boards than when produced as PC boards with all
those parallel traces coupling into each other...
-Charles
p.s. "rambling"  ;)







From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 15:14:48 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 11:40:33 +0000
Subject: Re: three phase motors to steppers
Priority: normal
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steve

Several years ago I was trying to use alternators for stepper 
motors and variable speed motors.  I managed to get Don Lancaster  a 
little interested and he wrote it up in one of his many columns.
One reply was from a guy using them to control a wood lathe.  He made 
up a video of his work which was very well done.  I don't remember 
what devices he was using, but the controller was physically large.  
I have been waiting for some low voltage Hi current mosfets, but that 
doesn't seem to be the way industry is going.   All the devices I am 
familiar with are in the under 100 watt range, or are much higher 
voltage.  The drivers have been around for ages, but getting them to 
control some power seems to the problem.  At High voltage and high 
prices, there seems to be a wealth of devices.  I seem to be twixt 
and between.
I'm not sure how a three phase induction would work as a stepper.  My 
immediate reaction would be to use it as a servo with feedback.  The 
alternators were nice in that you could control both rotor 
current,for torque, and your field for speed or position.  
I ended up putting some steppers on my mill.
The 72 rpm slo-syns can be used as steppers if you don't want a lot 
of speed.  They got gobs of torque and they are cheap.

This is all off the top of the head, if you want more details, I'll 
look a little deeper.

Bob McKnight
Phx AZ

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 18:39:01 1998
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Hi Bob

Thanks for the info . If you need big power fets contact me off line I
have some to spare.

kb4mxo@ mwt.net

Steve

bamcknig@postoffice.syspac.com wrote:

> steve
>
> Several years ago I was trying to use alternators for stepper
> motors and variable speed motors.  I managed to get Don Lancaster  a
> little interested and he wrote it up in one of his many columns.
> One reply was from a guy using them to control a wood lathe.  He made
> up a video of his work which was very well done.  I don't remember
> what devices he was using, but the controller was physically large.
> I have been waiting for some low voltage Hi current mosfets, but that
> doesn't seem to be the way industry is going.   All the devices I am
> familiar with are in the under 100 watt range, or are much higher
> voltage.  The drivers have been around for ages, but getting them to
> control some power seems to the problem.  At High voltage and high
> prices, there seems to be a wealth of devices.  I seem to be twixt
> and between.
> I'm not sure how a three phase induction would work as a stepper.  My
> immediate reaction would be to use it as a servo with feedback.  The
> alternators were nice in that you could control both rotor
> current,for torque, and your field for speed or position.
> I ended up putting some steppers on my mill.
> The 72 rpm slo-syns can be used as steppers if you don't want a lot
> of speed.  They got gobs of torque and they are cheap.
>
> This is all off the top of the head, if you want more details, I'll
> look a little deeper.
>
> Bob McKnight
> Phx AZ




From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 18:46:02 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: GM ECM Flash programmer
Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 08:44:39 +1000
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Matt,

Either i've totally lost it or you got the numbers around the wrong way :-)

$1070 Aus would be $695 US

or 

$695 AUS would be $451.75 US @ 65c exchange rate. 


Cheers,

PJ

----------
From: 	Matthew Harding
Sent: 	Thursday, May 14, 1998 12:09 AM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: GM ECM Flash programmer


>	Looks like the price starts at $695 in Australian $, anyone
>know the current exchange rate?


$695 Aus  would be around (roughly) $1070 US

$1 Aus = $0.65 US



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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: 91 IROC L98 Bin file Offset question
Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 08:46:49 +1000
Encoding: 27 TEXT, 43 UUENCODE
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Anyone tell me what offset 008 in the '808 is for. Its a config flag but so far only worked out one bits for Auto / man.......

Cheers,
PJ


----------
From: 	Mike Hoenes
Sent: 	Thursday, May 14, 1998 1:35 AM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	91 IROC L98 Bin file Offset question

For a 1227730 ECU -
Comparing a stock file to a VATS disable file there are only two
differences.
One is at 0016 - which the stock 10 is changed to 00 (i understand that this
is the VATS/NOVATS flag )
The other is at offset 0008.  Stock is 8D, the VATS disable file has AA.
Can anyone tell me what offset 0008 is for?
Also, does anyone have a map to the offsets to disable warning codes for a
730?

TIA

mike
 - 


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From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 19:22:21 1998
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Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 16:25:22 -0700
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: Sandy <sganz@wgn.net>
Subject: Re: interference
In-Reply-To: <85256603.0062ABF2.00@csc.com>
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I should say that their is nothing wrong with WW, but for somthing in a
very noisy environment, less the optimal. A nice set of solid core wires
and non-resistor plugs can do provide a nice spread sprectrum transmitter,
which will cause many-a-problem, that for example a nice PCB will not have.
I know their can be bad PCB designs, but It is just too easy to get a proto
made. If I need one, I might consider it, but from 2 or more, low cost
prototype PCB are my poison. 

0.01 of the 2 Cents that I have probabally spent last week! ;-)

Sandy

At 02:00 PM 5/13/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I also beg to differ, I have personally run DSP wirewraps at about 20 MHz.
If the
>breadboard is a wirewrap, it is possible to wrap a ground grid. Simply attach
>every ground to every other one, forming a grid of ground wires. It does
wonders
>for reducing noise.
>
>Good luck
>
>
>
>
>
>cmorris@ix.netcom.com on 05/13/98 08:57:32 AM
>
>Please respond to diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>
>To:   diy_efi@esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
>cc:    (bcc: Joe Dzura/SED/CSC)
>Subject:  Re: interference
>
>
>
>
>On Wed, 13 May 1998 02:50:47 -0400, you wrote:
>>One question, if you did anything with wirewrap, it will not work. ;-) Lots
>>of antennas...
>>
>>Sandy (rambeling, and spelling badly)
>     I beg to differ. I am running a wire-wrap breadboard to control
>two additional fuel injectors for my turbo BMW. Tossed it in the
>glovebox and hooked up the wires. It has never missed a beat despite
>the presence of an MSD-6 (multispark) ignition, and it doesn't even
>have a watchdog reset (a quickie design). Works so well that I never
>got around to spending the $250 or so to have a PC board made.
>     I have built some high-speed circuits that worked better on the
>bench as wirewrap boards than when produced as PC boards with all
>those parallel traces coupling into each other...
>-Charles
>p.s. "rambling"  ;)
> 

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 19:24:54 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 91 IROC L98 Bin file Offset question
Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 16:23:06 -0700
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It's (very likely) the experimental byte. If AA, checksum is ignored. Unless
the ECM ignores VATS when the exp byte is set, it has nothing to do with
VATS. I don't believe setting the exp byte will disable VATS.

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: 'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu' <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, May 13, 1998 4:11 PM
Subject: RE: 91 IROC L98 Bin file Offset question


>Anyone tell me what offset 008 in the '808 is for. Its a config flag but so
far only worked out one bits for Auto / man.......
>
>Cheers,
>PJ
>
>
>----------
>From: Mike Hoenes
>Sent: Thursday, May 14, 1998 1:35 AM
>To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
>Subject: 91 IROC L98 Bin file Offset question
>
>For a 1227730 ECU -
>Comparing a stock file to a VATS disable file there are only two
>differences.
>One is at 0016 - which the stock 10 is changed to 00 (i understand that
this
>is the VATS/NOVATS flag )
>The other is at offset 0008.  Stock is 8D, the VATS disable file has AA.
>Can anyone tell me what offset 0008 is for?
>Also, does anyone have a map to the offsets to disable warning codes for a
>730?
>
>TIA
>
>mike
> -
>
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 19:34:23 1998
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From: Douglas Taylor <dotaylor@nla.gov.au>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: RE: GM ECM Flash programmer
Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 09:33:21 +1000
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	----------
	From:  Matthew Harding [SMTP:mharding@qonline.com.au]
	Sent:  Thursday, 14 May 1998 12:10 AM
	To:  diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
	Subject:  Re: GM ECM Flash programmer


	>	Looks like the price starts at $695 in Australian $, anyone
	>know the current exchange rate?


	$695 Aus  would be around (roughly) $1070 US

	$1 Aus = $0.65 US

	You've gone the wrong way.

	$AUS 695 = $US 451.75

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 19:44:23 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Group Buy on the O2s
Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 19:44:37 -0400
Message-ID: <01bd7ec9$17364200$2f198fd1@nacelp>
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OK list is $130.80 (USA).  For any order of over 10 it would be
103., and change, plus 6% sales tax, so 110 + shipping.  Wasn't
thrilled but if someone knows of a cheaper source holler, at least
there is a number for others to look at.  
  On this "deal" it would be as long as 30 days from when I ordered
them til when I got them.  And they wouldn't be ordered till I had all
the money in hand.
  It's still some time fore things are a done deal on the testing, so
lots of thought can go into your decision.

Cheers
Bruce   BTW, if anyone has any ideas about better prices, or source
             but doesn't have the time, to chase things down e-mail me.
             nacelp@bright.net.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 19:48:45 1998
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Why are there so many $%^#@$^%$ing "winmail.dat" files flying all over the
place? Can't the owners of these PLEASE GET RID OF THEM BEFORE SENDING THE
#@%@#^%#%&#$ING MESSAGES...


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 19:55:50 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 91 IROC L98 Bin file Offset question
Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 19:56:29 -0400
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Date: Wednesday, May 13, 1998 7:12 PM


>Anyone tell me what offset 008 in the '808 is for. Its a config flag but so
far only worked out one bits for Auto / man.......
>Cheers,
>PJ
>From: Mike Hoenes
>The other is at offset 0008.  Stock is 8D, the VATS disable file has AA.
>Can anyone tell me what offset 0008 is for?


I thought, 0008 was the checksum disable (when AA).....
But, haven't personnally been able to verify that..

In my mind to disable something, that switch would have to be
turned off, the checksum would change, and the malfunction
flags would need to be changed, right, or am I missing
something?.  Anyone?.  Or is the 730 that different?.
Bruce     Gee, a new reason for wearing Cone Shaped Hats.
               Does it ever end?.


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 20:11:04 1998
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	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
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Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 17:10:52 -0700
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		Bruce, what is the part # and supplier. I have some sources
that may have a better price.

		Thanks !
		Don

		-----Original Message-----
		From:	Bruce Plecan [SMTP:nacelp@bright.net]
		Sent:	Wednesday, May 13, 1998 4:45 PM
		To:	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
		Subject:	Group Buy on the O2s

OK list is $130.80 (USA).  For any order of over 10 it would be
103., and change, plus 6% sales tax, so 110 + shipping.  Wasn't
thrilled but if someone knows of a cheaper source holler, at least
there is a number for others to look at.  
  On this "deal" it would be as long as 30 days from when I ordered
them til when I got them.  And they wouldn't be ordered till I had all
the money in hand.
  It's still some time fore things are a done deal on the testing, so
lots of thought can go into your decision.

Cheers
Bruce   BTW, if anyone has any ideas about better prices, or source
             but doesn't have the time, to chase things down e-mail me.
             nacelp@bright.net.

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 20:16:48 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Same MPU, different proms
Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 20:17:27 -0400
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On this 730/165 issue they both use the same processor, right?.
The difference is one uses a 128K prom, and the other a 256K.
Now, if ya offset load the 128 into the 256 you can run it, can you
just run the 128K memcal?.  ie, use a 749 memcal in a 730 
for say a 6 cyl map, to 6cyl map application using all the same
mechanicals?.  Of course assuming the wiring is right.
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 20:23:27 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: Re: Group Buy on the O2s
Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 17:24:18 -0700
Organization: Pilgrim House
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On Wed, 13 May 1998 17:10:52 -0700, Don Berry <donbe@microsoft.com>
wrote:

>		Bruce, what is the part # and supplier. I have some sources
>that may have a better price.

Sheesh, don't you guys READ your mail? It was posted TWICE just
yesterday, and several times before that.
	36531-P07-003

Garfield


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 20:45:59 1998
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From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Message from CSH, HQ
Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 20:46:37 -0400
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Dan Barrett, and Matt Harding they seem to be talking to you,
about the winmail.  I don't see it, just get tired about the carpet 
bombing everyone with the winmail mentions.
  There were a couple others, and I happened to have their
addresses, and wrote them e-mail. So you weren't alone, or
singled out, by me.
  Thanks in Advance
Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 21:06:18 1998
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To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
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In-Reply-To: <01bd7ed1$c00bb7e0$2f198fd1@nacelp> from "Bruce Plecan" at May 13, 98 08:46:37 pm
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Another listmeister has written some kind of script for majordomo
to kill the WINMAIL.DATs.  Hopefully I can get a copy and we can
get it running on diy_efi and efi332!

Orin, list admin.

> Dan Barrett, and Matt Harding they seem to be talking to you,
> about the winmail.  I don't see it, just get tired about the carpet 
> bombing everyone with the winmail mentions.
>   There were a couple others, and I happened to have their
> addresses, and wrote them e-mail. So you weren't alone, or
> singled out, by me.
>   Thanks in Advance
> Bruce


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 22:09:50 1998
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From: "kris b robinson" <hikenw@gte.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: ECU 's
Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 18:05:41 -0700
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HI someone told me you guys know something about custom
ECU's is this true??

thank you


Kris Robinson
1988 TransAm 388cid rollercam ,lifters, rockers ,
full floating wrist pins , gear driven , 10.4:1comp.
TPI , stage 1 port job , 2.05 dia valves
future mods : newsprings drop 1.5 " , swaybars , tower braces
subframe conectors , baer brakes , wet nitros sys .
sram , new fully tunable computer , fuel cell

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 22:30:28 1998
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From: "Bill Harrison" <mazdaguy@Lek.net>
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Subject: Re: GM ECM Flash programmer
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At that exchange rate, it would actually be 451$ or so.  




From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 22:43:25 1998
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Sorry, Charlie...

If $1 Australian = $.65 US (Close), then $695 AUS = ~$422.5 US

At 12:09 AM 5/14/98 +1000, Matthew Harding wrote:
>
>>	Looks like the price starts at $695 in Australian $, anyone
>>know the current exchange rate?
>
>
>$695 Aus  would be around (roughly) $1070 US
>
>$1 Aus = $0.65 US
>
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 22:45:28 1998
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From: Peter Jaramaz <pjaramaz@ingenico.com.au>
To: "'diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu'"
	 <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: RE: 91 IROC L98 Bin file Offset question
Date: Thu, 14 May 1998 12:45:58 +1000
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Hi Bruce,

C008 in the 808 is definetely a bitmap and is used throughout the code for various things,some of which I sin't figured out

PJ

----------
From: 	Bruce Plecan
Sent: 	Thursday, May 14, 1998 9:56 AM
To: 	diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
Subject: 	Re: 91 IROC L98 Bin file Offset question

Date: Wednesday, May 13, 1998 7:12 PM


>Anyone tell me what offset 008 in the '808 is for. Its a config flag but so
far only worked out one bits for Auto / man.......
>Cheers,
>PJ
>From: Mike Hoenes
>The other is at offset 0008.  Stock is 8D, the VATS disable file has AA.
>Can anyone tell me what offset 0008 is for?


I thought, 0008 was the checksum disable (when AA).....
But, haven't personnally been able to verify that..

In my mind to disable something, that switch would have to be
turned off, the checksum would change, and the malfunction
flags would need to be changed, right, or am I missing
something?.  Anyone?.  Or is the 730 that different?.
Bruce     Gee, a new reason for wearing Cone Shaped Hats.
               Does it ever end?.



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end



From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 22:47:31 1998
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Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 21:46:29 -0500
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
From: John Hess <johnhess@cris.com>
Subject: Re: 91 IROC L98 Bin file Offset question
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Rather than reset the checksum of the EPROM, whoever disabled the VATS got
lazy and simply set the EPROM to
"Experimental"

TO do it right,  Leave 0008 at &H8D,  Sum up 0008 through the end of the
PROM (simply add each of the successive numbers to "0"), convert to HEX and
write the two least significant bits at 06 and 07, respectively.

At 11:35 AM 5/13/98 -0400, you wrote:
>For a 1227730 ECU -
>Comparing a stock file to a VATS disable file there are only two
>differences.
>One is at 0016 - which the stock 10 is changed to 00 (i understand that this
>is the VATS/NOVATS flag )
>The other is at offset 0008.  Stock is 8D, the VATS disable file has AA.
>Can anyone tell me what offset 0008 is for?
>Also, does anyone have a map to the offsets to disable warning codes for a
>730?
>
>TIA
>
>mike
> - 
>
>

From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 22:50:52 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: Same MPU, different proms
Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 19:48:58 -0700
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I did it with the Syclone code in my 7730. I just moved the code to the
upper 128K (FFFF down).

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp@bright.net>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, May 13, 1998 5:40 PM
Subject: Same MPU, different proms


>On this 730/165 issue they both use the same processor, right?.
>The difference is one uses a 128K prom, and the other a 256K.
>Now, if ya offset load the 128 into the 256 you can run it, can you
>just run the 128K memcal?.  ie, use a 749 memcal in a 730
>for say a 6 cyl map, to 6cyl map application using all the same
>mechanicals?.  Of course assuming the wiring is right.
>Bruce
>
>


From diy_efi-owner  Wed May 13 22:56:14 1998
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From: "TBK" <terryk@foothill.net>
To: <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Re: 91 IROC L98 Bin file Offset question
Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 19:54:15 -0700
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For the same ECM, the location of any specific item will vary between
applications.

For example on the 165 ECM, the location of spark is different between the
Camaro and the Vette. Same ECM, different places. Everything else is the
same. So you can't usually ask by ECM, but by application (car, year,
tranny, 49 state/CA, day of the week.)

TK
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Hoenes <MHoenes@dhr.state.nc.us>
To: diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu <diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Date: Wednesday, May 13, 1998 9:08 AM
Subject: 91 IROC L98 Bin file Offset question


>For a 1227730 ECU -
>Comparing a stock file to a VATS disable file there are only two
>differences.
>One is at 0016 - which the stock 10 is changed to 00 (i understand that
this
>is the VATS/NOVATS flag )
>The other is at offset 0008.  Stock is 8D, the VATS disable file has AA.
>Can anyone tell me what offset 0008 
