[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: Desensitizing GM knock sensors



can you try running sans blower?.
Otherwise ya just gotta pulling timing out of it.
You using the right spark plugs?.  extended might not be what ya want (and
heat range).
Bruce


>      Rodger and Bruce,
>
>    As far as the bottom end is concerned its a  complete Lunati Stroker w/
> 6" rods so as far as rod to stroke ratio it is the same as stock.
>      In regards to this knock retard problem I have tried a 6# pulley and
> there was no change in the K R. What I get on the Tech 1 is 1 frame of
Knock
> Signal at the 7 degree spike then the retard will go down but never
approch
> 0. This is every frame at 100+ KPA. What I was thinking was that since the
> KS did not resurface after the initial hit it  the KR I am seeing is just
> the ECM reacting to the single KS. In any event I am not running at 100%
> throtle until I can find out exactly what is going on.
>     Also I am running 42 # Lucas injectors and the transmission is a
> 6-Speed.
>                            Thanks to all for the input,  Jim
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: nacelp <nacelp@bright.net>
> To: gmecm@diy-efi.org <gmecm@diy-efi.org>
> Date: Friday, February 18, 2000 12:29 PM
> Subject: Re: Desensitizing GM knock sensors
>
>
>
>
> > > The if problem isn't false knock, then fix the cause of the knock.  Or
> > > ignore it, and blow up the engine.  10PSI, and 9.4, that will be hard
to
> > > fix.  Try 6 and see where ya are.
> > > You talk to the people that sold you that S/C?.
> > > 9.4, on a N/A can be a headache.
> > > 383, what for cam?.
> > > Might check cam timing.
> > > You also way out of calibration room.  You meantion 100 KPa.  You
should
> > > have a 2 bar MAP and get things right.  Course as things stand now I
> don't
> > > know anyone with a 2 bar calibration (program) for a LT1.
> > > Grumpy
>
> His is a 383, meaning stroker, poorer rod geometry.
> Starts effecting timing, and I'll lay ya odds about timing and compression
> changes needed.
> 10 to 6 PSI of boost is worlds away in my book.
> It's been well over a year ago but I went around, and around, with some
guys
> on what to do with their stroker vortec (LT1).
> Last e-mail was they were going back to 6 PSI, and different injectors,
> after all kinds of tinkering.
> This is just the mechanical end, there is still the issue of even having a
> calibration that covers running conditions.
> Grumpy
>
>
>
> > Actually Bruce, 9.4 on a LT1 with a blower is not that much of a
> > problem.    There are people that run (and it is on the edge) the
> > stock 10.4 comp with 6 psi blowers without any timing retard, and
> > don't get enough knock to destroy the stock pistons.   And that is on
> > 93 octane gas not the much better stuff.
> > Part of the LT1 designe allows for .5 or so greater comp ratios before
> > you have knock over a non-LT1 engine.  Or at least that was something
> > that GM claimed.
> > Roger
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from gmecm, send "unsubscribe gmecm" (without the quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from gmecm, send "unsubscribe gmecm" (without the quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org
>

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
To unsubscribe from gmecm, send "unsubscribe gmecm" (without the quotes)
in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@lists.diy-efi.org