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Re: Knock sensor selection for 383 SBC



Thanks all for the great info!  I'll try the teflon trick if I get falsies.

geeze bruce where do you keep all this info.. you're only supposed to be
using 12% of your brain ;-)

----- Original Message -----
From: nacelp <nacelp@bright.net>
To: <gmecm@diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2000 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: Knock sensor selection for 383 SBC


> Use a 350 KS, and away ya go.
> There are like 3 part numbers for the mid series of sensors (including the
> V6) as I recall.  Least in the Standard Brands Ignition parts catalog.  I
> think gm had a few more numbers then that, but I did try all three on my
> 355, and their wasn't much difference.   What I was doing was playing with
> ESC Modules, and knock sensors trying to get it to trigger as close as
> possible to audible knock as possible, and not speck the plugs.   Wound up
> being either of the 350 sensors, and 3.8L ESC Module (think was 87 MY).
>    I also, beleive that it's more a function of bore then stroke that
> changes the acoustic pattern that the gm sensors sense.
>   One way to test your setup, is, get your calibration about right with
the
> ESC malfunction flag disabled (KS disconnected), (low speed tuning), and
> make sure there is no audible knock,  plug everything in and enable
> malfunction flag, and see where you are, if it's triggering a lot, then
it's
> probably false signaling, or too sensitive.  If things seem fine, add 4
> degrees in a few spots, and see if that triggers it, if not 6 but at 6 it
> should be able to tickle the sensor.  Remember, start at low rpm
> low-moderate load, and work from there, and test test test.
>    Remember thou, the rings you save may be your own, and start wayy
> conservative, and work from there.
> Grumpy
>
>
> > It's easy to pick a knock sensor when going from a 305 to a 350 or 355,
> but
> > what about a 383?  I was planning on using the stock 350 sensor of
coarse,
> > and if I even found some outfit selling a sensor described as "for 383
> use"
> > I would be skeptical.  Since the bore is identical, (+.0305") am I wrong
> in
> > assuming the 350 sensor is absolutely correct? Do the aluminum heads
> > (replacing stock heavies) sitting on top affect the signature of a knock
> > event enough that a different sensor should be used?  should I find a
> vette
> > sensor and (net-res?) from an alum-headed 350?
> >
> > This is a (personal car) '165 MAF (yea, don't say it)  -AUTO 383
> > application.
> >
> > thx for any thoughts.
> >
> >
> >
>
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