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Re: manifold machining
Greetings Tom,
Click here: http://xephic.dynip.com/dodge/383intake.htm
I have done such a thing... myself... in my garage. I used an aluminum
edelbrock streetmaster 383 intake for my dodge truck, for two reasons -
one, its aluminum - easier to machine with common tools, and second, it
came with the engine I pulled :)
I went a little fancy on my friend's lathe making the bungs, lathing the
insides to match the contour of the injectors, but its entirely
unnecessary, as long as the o-ring on both ends of the injectors make a
good seal, you are good to go.
Drilling the intake in your drill press is easy... use a very short bit,
as you will have much less walking, and preferably, a milling bit (it
has a flat bottom with teeth), and adjust your press for the appropriate
speed for aluminum. I oversped mine, and had a lot of de-burring to
do. A hand file is fine.
My bungs were aluminum tubing, as was the intake, so I used
www.durafix.com to merge them together. Its basically a brazing alloy
with a propane (MP preferably) torch, and its good to go. Take your
time and be careful, but its not difficult to do. You can also bond the
bungs on with epoxy, if that's easier for you to use. Especially if the
bungs and the intake are different materials (iron & steel, or iron and
aluminum). The fuel rails are nothing more than hollow rods, or metal
tubing, and with the torker 2, I'm guessing chevy, which means stock
fuel rails off a boneyard car might be close enough to use. If not, get
yourself the fuel rail off a Ford Crown Victoria, they fit the top of
the GM injectors, and its made of individually brazed tubing, which
means you can adjust the distance the injectors are apart a small amount
if its close. Easier than making your own.
Oh, I further read your post, and it seems you have the rails. Cool.
Drill eight holes spaced the same distance as your rail injector holes,
tap the bungs in with a block of wood/rubber mallet, then epoxy or braze
with www.durafix.com assuming they are both alluminum. For epoxy or
welding they don't have to be a perfect fit, in fact, if you can push
them in by hand that's okay, as long as they don't slop around that
much. Too much slop can be filled in with epoxy or durafix, but its
more difficult to get them to hold still while brazing. With epoxy at
least you can brace the injector bung with a wooden dowel and not fear
it will burn.
Check out my web-page, it gives a basic overview on how to do it, which
I kinda outlined above, and if its all aluminum, you might want to give
$20 of durafix a try... its pretty easy. I was more worried about
messing it up than I really should have been, and I can't really weld
that well at all. Its like "giant soldering".
--
Frederic Breitwieser
Xephic Technology
769 Sylvan Ave #9
Bridgeport CT 06606
Tele: (203) 372-2707
Fax: (603) 372-1147
Web: http://xephic.dynip.com/
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